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bd

Bangladesh
March 2022
in

Year
An Innovation Hub ISSN 1999-2076
Reg. 8/2012

Is US Dollar
diminishing its
Issue 03 | 114 Pages |

March 2022
ground as a
reserve currency?
Volume 15 |

Budget for FY23:


Textile and apparel
exporters want
constitution of existing
supports to recover

Russia-Ukraine
More practical steps are

Unveiling industry best practices


war: Impact on
Bangladesh’s prerequisite closing the
apparel industry
industry-academia gap

Apparel accessories & fashion


March 2022
R

See at page 31 See at page 17 See at page 35

See at page 05 See at page 27 See at page 21

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Special detergent for Elastane fabrics
March 2022

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PBX: + 88 09611775588, FAX: +88 09611775522
Email: salesupport@nexagenspecialities.com
An Innovation Hub

Editorial Panel

Editor in Chief
Prof. Md. Monirul Islam

t
Executive Editor

rkeer
Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan

Technical Editor
a
M ad BIOLASE APC
Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman
Le COMBINED ENZYMATIC
SCOURING
Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak)
Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim

Consulting Editor

BIO-POLISHING
Dr. NN Mahapatra
Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz
C.N. Sivaramakrishnan
Ashfaque Ahmed

Associate Editor IN SAME BATH


Jamal Abdun Naser

Boost up Knit Pre Treatment &


Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher)

Save
Eousup Novee

Managing Editor
Akhi Akter

Sub Editor
Sanjoy Kumar Saha

Technical Team

Co-ordinator
Setara Begum
Member
S.N. Abdullah
Amzad Hossain Monir

Editor & Publisher


A.S.M Tareq Amin

Published on 15th March 2022 by


Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd.
House-41, Road-5, Block-B,
Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217
Tel: +88 02 55093682
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Volume 15, Issue 03 (March 2022)
Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.
For Better Tomorrow
BDT 200, USD 10 | www.textiletoday.com.bd
Bangladesh
March 2022

Bangladesh
in

Year
An Innovation Hub ISSN 1999-2076
Reg. 8/2012

On the Cover
Is US Dollar
diminishing its
Issue 03 | 114 Pages |

ground as a
reserve currency?

An Innovation Hub
Volume 15 |

Budget for FY23:


Textile and apparel
exporters want

ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ Mosdorf


constitution of existing
supports to recover

Content
Russia-Ukraine
More practical steps are

GmbH & Co. KG is a well known


war: Impact on
Bangladesh’s prerequisite closing the
apparel industry
industry-academia gap

Germany based textile auxiliaries


R

and specialty chemical manufacturer.


See at page 31 See at page 17 See at page 35

See at page 05 See at page 27 See at page 21


Their high performance auxiliaries are
TISSOCYL RC 9
Special detergent for Elastane fabrics
easing the textile finishing process.
Nexagen Specialities Ltd | a Harris & Menuk Company

Advertisement
Giant Business Tower, Level-12(West), Plot # 3 & 3/A
Sector # 3, Uttara C/A, Dhaka- 1230, Bangladesh.
PBX: + 88 09611775588, FAX: +88 09611775522

March’ 22 | Volume 15 | Issue 03


Email: salesupport@nexagenspecialities.com

12 Editorial 23-25 Opinion 33 Export Updates


Jute can be the next big Apparel exports earning grows
industry for Bangladesh 30.73% in last eight months

Pakistan's textile & apparel exports


14-16 Cover Story earnings grow 24.73% in last seven
months

Infrastructure and Logistics


34 Advertorial
sectors of Bangladesh:
Neglected issues (Part 2)

26-29 Exclusive
Interview

Is US Dollar diminishing its


ground as a reserve currency? organIQ EMS jeans – The
benchmark for sustainable
jeans finishing
18-19 Top Story

36-38 Retail Business

More practical steps are


prerequisite closing the
industry-academia gap

Russia-Ukraine war: Impact on 30-32 Opinion


Bangladesh’s apparel industry
Do box stores benefit by
incorporating MicroFulfillment?

20-22 In Focus 39-40 Steering


Innovation

Future leaders- future


skills- 2025! (Part ii)

40 Trade & Biz


Budget for FY23: Textile
and apparel exporters want Australian market assures duty Adelco representative MaxChoice
constitution of existing & quota free access for BD ties with Textile Today Innovation
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Content March’ 22 | Volume 15 | Issue 03

Factory Tales Apparel Today Spinning Today

45 Industry Insight 63-65 AT Editorial 81-83 Fiber


Innovation

Seasonless
clothing: a
reset in the
Why manufacturers facing sustainability
Exclusive yarn production
troubles to provide workers’ practice
from abandoned banana
salaries plant in Bangladesh

66 Advertorial
47-50 Innovation 84-86 Technology
R|Elan™ GreenGold – in Spinning
enabling eco-conscious
fashion – now available in Proposal of solar energy
PTY &FDY power based draw frame
machine on spinning process

Successful development of 68-70 Exclusive 86 Textile World


nanofibrous facemask from Interview
recycled PET bottle ILO findings prove Uzbek
cotton is free from systemic
forced labor
51-52 Innovation
Award 87-88 News &
Analysis

4A Yarn Dyeing Ltd Strong backward linkage is


National chemical guidance
monumentalizes LEED a must for woven sector to
provides orientation through
Platinum achievement grow its fullest
the landscape of international
guidelines”

Innovation 88 Textile World


54-55
Award 72-73 Fashion World Russia-Ukraine war hinders
Indian Recycled Yarn Market
Ukraine-Russia war: Fashion
brands responding to it
90-91 Sustainably
Global Apparel Today
74-76 When it comes to cotton
Denim Processing Plant Ltd
Sourcing
production, Sustainability is
- DPPL attains LEED Gold in the water
Top ten apparel sourcing
Certification
countries to watch in 2022
92-93 Advertorial
56 Exporters'
Profiles 77 Textile People Quality Expert: The
operators’ and managers’
Bangladesh's 10 giant apparel Neela Hosna Ara, Crony Group
favorite
exporters in 2021 Chairman, gets selected as a
Board of Directors of BGMEA
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Editorial

Jute can be the next big


industry for Bangladesh
Akhi Akter

The Ministry of Textiles and Jute made a profit of 17 crore BDT. On


observed the National Jute Day the other hand, the state treasury Some jute made products
2022 on 6 March across the incurred a huge loss of 10,000
country with the slogan ‘Sonali crore BDT to bear the expenses of • Personal protective equipment
Asher Sonar Desh, Paribeshbandab these jute mills. • Mask
Bangladesh’. Jute Day aimed to • Sanitary napkin
As the sector is observing • Jute polybag
highlight the bright potentials of
tremendous loss, many initiatives • Shopping bag
the golden fiber as well as increase
have been taken by the • Garbage bag
the use of jute and jute-based
government and non-government • Thermal bag
goods in domestic and global
entities to revive the sector. Jute • Rice sack
markets.
Diversification Promotion Centre • Grocery bag
Jute, the golden fiber of (JDPC) was established in 2002 • Packaging bag
Bangladesh, is one of the for a five-year period to diversify
affordable and ancient fibers in jute goods. However, its activities
global history. Jute was used as started on January 1, 2013. diversification.
fiber to make rope, twine fabric,
Demand for diversified jute For proper R&D on jute, the sector
macramé hanger, etc. from very
products (DJP) has been should have available sophisticated
ancient times. Poor rural people of
increasing all over the world. jute research institute labs and
India used to wear clothes made of
Remarkably, some recent equipment. Also, universities
coarser jute during the period of
developments of jute-based need to include departments for
the Mughal emperor Akbar (1542
products of Bangladesh have teaching extensive knowledge on
–1605).
grabbed global attention. But the jute.
However, jute first entered into country has no proper preparation
High-tech jute goods have
the global trade in the mid-18th for tapping the market as there is
tremendous demand across
century while flax and hemp were no adequate infrastructure.
the globe. The machinery of
dominant in the spinning industries
Recently, Bangladeshi scientist jute mills in Bangladesh are 50
in Europe and America. According
Dr. Mubarak Ahmad Khan said years old and most of the plants
to the National Encyclopedia of
Textile Today in an interview that if have no facilities for dyeing and
Bangladesh, the first jute mill was
Bangladesh’s total jute production lamination which are essential for
established at Rishra on the river
turns into Sonali bag, it can reduce producing diversified products.
Hooghly, north of Kolkata in 1855
one-third of global polythene Keep remaining these issues alive,
by George Auckland together with
usage. Thus, Bangladesh’s lost the potentiality of jute will not be
a Bangali partner, Shyamsunder Sen.
glory ‘golden fiber’ can create a flourished.
Once jute industry was the single sustainable alternative to plastic
Jute can be the potential game-
largest industry of Bengal under pollution as well as to attain a
changer for Bangladesh’s
British rule and East Bengal healthy profit.
economy. Also, jute can create
(East Pakistan) during the
According to Dr. Mubarak Ahmad a great impact ensuring global
quarter-century after 1947. After
Khan, jute alone can transform sustainability. However, without
the emergence of Bangladesh
Bangladesh’s entire economic the right focus and government
as an independent state, the
scenario. Some experts say that support, the blessing we received
contribution of the industry to the
Bangladesh needs to brand jute- from nature will be diminished.
nation's GDP and in the field of
made sustainable products to grab
employment declined.
more global attention.
Author:
Apart from Adamjee, all other
However, the sector has four
jute mills under the supervision
challenges that should be
of BJMC had been experiencing Akhi Akter
recovered to take the sector
losses constantly. According to a Managing Editor
next level e.g. lack of technology,
report of Prothom Alo, in the last Textile Today
skilled manpower, fiscal support,
decade, the government jute mills
and research-based product

An Innovation Hub

12 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Cover Story

Is US Dollar
diminishing
its ground
as a reserve
currency?
Md. Eousup Novee, Bablu

The US dollar, needless to say, as 62% in the total redeemable and capacity of global influence
is an international medium of reserve of the global currencies. have a critical correlation that one
exchange in trade and commerce Comparing to other currencies, enforces another to grow or fall
to a great extent. After World War- the USD reserve stands close to with. Acknowledged, there must
2, it becomes the most powerful 60% now in the central banks of be some other interconnecting
global currency officially termed countries over the world. Central factors with the global influence.
as the reserve currency or vehicle banks have to hold reserve
• Scope out
currency. The ground, dominance currency for meeting liquidity
and confidence in the US dollar are demand, exchanging their Though quite relevant and, the
significantly diminishing – what is own currency for international components are intertwined,
going to happen to the exporting transactions, and diversifying yet - the writer will refrain from
or importing countries? portfolios to avert gloomy the discussion of the ideologies,
economic times. civilizations, and their systems
With time evolve, many global
(state, politics & culture). A slight
currencies dried and many of them Scope of the write-up
comparative dynamics would be
even died due to a shortfall of
In history, at least for the last 600 seemingly apparent as requires
political and economic relevance
hundred years, once the dominant showing the rise and fall of a currency.
to the world. In 1900, USD was
currency gets weak, state itself
0% whereas pound sterling stood • Scope in
gets weak or vice versa. Currency
It will present the rise and fall of
the global currency in the existing
Global Reserve financial sub-system of the total
Currencies 1920-
1815-1920 systems. The financial subsystem
USA
1720-1815 UK of an economic system plays
1642-1720 FRANCE
Relative Strength of 6 empires

1530-1641 NL a major role shaping the total


SPAIN
0.1 systems of a state and, henceforth
the world. A global currency
0.75 acts as an international medium of
exchange in trade and commerce –
0.5
here, the writer will limit the scrutiny.
0.25 Rise & Fall of Major Currencies in
Brief
0
1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000
Six major world reserve currencies
were found dominant since 1450
Figure 1: Global Reserve Currencies with relative political strength among countries.

An Innovation Hub

14 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Cover Story

Financial bubble and Financial bust and


exchangeable or redeemable with
big wealth gap economic downturn gold – the gold standard retained.
Revolutions and wars If we notice the right side of the
Stability, prosperity, cycle, the money supply (printing
and productivity
Revolutions and wars money and credit) gets rampantly
Debt and political climb up to fight back the fall
restructuring
of the entire economy. In this
New world order New world order position, the USA stands now right
after the boom of the financial
Time markets.
Figure 2: Rise and fall (the cycle) of world order.
Some can argue that the USA
as – a) Portugal 1450–1530, b) the Federal Reserve Bank by an faced alike situations earlier
Spain 1530–1640, c) Netherlands act of 1913. The WW-1 broke out and returned back strongly. Yes.
1642–1720, d) France 1720–1815, in 1914 while European countries Because they had an undeniable
e) Great Britain 1815–1920, and had to pay the large military political hegemony and an
f) the United States from 1920 expenditures. The UK and other economic superiority in the world
to till now. The average tenure European countries suspended the – these two major forces helped
of a currency was 94 years if we gold standard to print money on the financial sub-system out of fall.
carefully notice the span of the a massive scale. Later on, the UK The situations are not that in favor
rise and fall. The USD as a reserve completely abandoned the gold of the US now and onward; a new
currency has already surpassed 78 standard in 1931. They started to world order has been approaching.
years (though the mere average create money without any material Global wrongful consensus for
was not taken in cognizance in base having no intrinsic value. USD
analysis). Due to the reckless jump Due to the massive production of
In 1944, the representatives of
of the money supply in the current money, the extremely devalued
44 influential countries reached
years and incapacity of creating British pound lost its global
an agreement at Bretton Woods,
value accordingly, it is inevitable dominance that paving the way for
USA to accept the USD as a global
to plummet its’ authority in the the USD to be replaced. The cycle
reserve currency backed by the
global storyline. of global leadership transition
sufficient gold reserve. Countries
would keep the USA’s position
Here we see the rise and fall, started to reserve USD other than
drowning likely the UK had faced
and most importantly, the the gold. It was fallaciously said
100 years ago.
intersection points between – USD backed by gold – other
the power transitions among During WW-2 the US provided war currencies backed by USD; as if all
the global reserve currencies. materials to the allied countries. currencies backed by gold.
The currencies of Spain and the The countries were required to pay
The US, like its predecessor the
Netherlands could not even exist the USA in gold. This significant
UK, completely nullified the Gold
after the 1860s. The US currency event made the USA a big gold
Standard in 1971. The then US
intersected and beat the British reservoir in that period. Right after
President Nixon provoked that it
currency in the 1920s. The Chinese the war, the countries connected
was a decision for a time being. He
currency and the US currency their currencies to the US dollar,
promised to go back to the Gold
are going to intersect each other those consequently connected
Conversion again but they never
in the near future, maybe by the to the gold reserve. Currencies
back. They denied the claimants
next few years. It is long been were acted as promissory notes
said that China was economically
and politically suppressed by the Total assets of the Federal Reserve (in $ trillion):
West and exploited by Japan from M1 Money Supply
8
1840 to 1949. They termed it as 7.17
7
a “century of humiliation” for the
6
Chinese nation that pulled china’s
5
influence down in the global power
4
dimensions.
3
The USD: The might and fight 2 .72
for leading the global financial 1
system 0
18 Dec 2002 10 Jun 2020
USD had a first mint of money Source: Fred Economic Data

in 1914 with the establishment of Figure 3: The Federal Reserve Bank’s Balance Sheet.

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 15


Cover Story

4T of capitalism, they put heavy


M2 Money Supply emphasis on the financial economy
3T
than that of the real economy.
3T
Financial instruments, where most
2T assets were kept in - like bonds,
2T credits, securities, dividends,
insurance, equities, mutual funds,
1T
hedging, derivatives, futures
500B
contracts, and other alluring
0 financial schemes, will not be able
500B
to protect against the slip down.
1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020

Breathing Corner for USD


Figure 4: Federal Reserve Bank Induced Liquid Money in the Markets.
One negative strength can only
help lead the US dollar for the
of gold in exchange for currencies. are being denominated in US next few years. Other top reserve
Then the USD and other currencies dollars in the world. Almost 40% of currencies (though insignificant
are no more promissory notes, the global debt lies in US dollars. in global reserve) like Renminbi
rather just colorful papers and In the last 75 years, the global 2.5%, Euro 21%, Pound 6.5% and
authoritative signatures in the dominance for USD was prevalent. Yen 6% – these currencies were
balance sheets of the central What will be the next? unintentionally backing the US
banks. dollar to stay strong. The countries
The US treated the fiat currency
USD is in an adverse state of as a ‘store of value’ instead of a of these currencies have big
affairs ‘medium of exchange’ though businesses with the USA since
unjustified. They quantify currency USD alone held 59% of the global
There were sheer similar periods
likely the commodity. In the reserve. This negative support
of currencies (rise, fall and
name of quantitative easing, historically could not last long in
intersection points) in history. In
abrupt amount of money has the case of other currencies. The
addition, some unprecedented
been injecting to boost economic confidence in the USD is going to
events would gear the fall of
activity. Practically, a large share erode dramatically in near future
the dollar quicker. The Covid-19,
of those money don’t go to the will magnify the Chinese Renminbi
China’s rise, war or military
economic programs rather to the as a reserve currency. In this
expense and the Russia-Ukraine
financial instruments. Whether it existing financial system, other
(the US & west backed) war could
is floating in cash or in debt, it has competing currencies will also
expose the blunt deficiency of US
an enormous consequences to the undergo similar problems like USD.
dollar in day light. The USA stays
economies connected with dollar. The global dominance of the USA
now in a substantial dilemma - if
Henceforth, the price of dollars has begun to go down along with
they don’t inject a lot of currency
is not an asset they show in the its currency. However, the US
in markets, they can’t recover
balance sheet and in practice. dollar having the status of “the
the damages and if they do so,
the dollar will lose its’ functional The value of US dollar was reserve currency” can descend
confidence. Currently, the West required to be determined by earlier before the tumble of the US
- Russia economic conflict will its’ equivalent goods or services hegemony.
surely deepen the jeopardy having intrinsic utility. The Part -1 Ends.
for dollar in particular. The US magnitude of difference between
and allied western countries Part-2 & 3: In this critical financial
the value of the dollar and its
hauling Russian reserve, issuing situation, what the textile and
floating price misled global people
trade embargo, other financial apparel industry can do – coming
and businesses. The quicker it
sanctions and instituting mistrust in the next issue. The fall of the US
flies upward the fall will follow. A
among countries - would bring dollar must pose an agony both for
massive injection and issuance of
counterproductive results in exporting and importing countries.
dollars those technically termed
return. These recent developments An economic catastrophe is
as M-1 and M-2 money supply
are triggering the plunge against way ahead. Yet, manufacturing
(both in liquid or cash and bond,
the US dollar. countries like Bangladesh would
treasury, securities, etc.) must drag
perform better – how?
its power down sharply.
The graph above was drawn taking
the data in 2020, the asset in the Furthermore, the USA has
balance sheet is now close to 8 been losing the strengths in its
- The writer is an Innovation
trillion dollars. Presently more than political, economic and human
Strategist.
60% of all foreign bank reserves capital orbits. As the very nature

An Innovation Hub

16 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


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“ We are worried about the Russian and


Ukrainian markets. Uncertainty has been
created in the payment and shipment
following the outbreak of the war,"

Faruque Hassan
President of the Bangladesh
Garment Manufacturers and
Exporters Association (BGMEA)

Russia-Ukraine war: Impact on


Bangladesh’s apparel industry
Textile Today Analysis

Russia-Ukraine war has a nearly 2% of its export items to Impact of the war on BD’s apparel
catastrophic effect on people Russia, mostly apparel goods. The sector
life and economy of the country sent garment items worth
Russia and Ukraine-bound
both countries. In the era of $415.47 million to Russia in the
garments exports are now facing
globalization, impact of any July-January period of the current
challenges as shipping lines are
war does not get stuck only the fiscal year, registering a 36.47
not willing to carry goods to the
conflicting nations rather the per cent year-on-year growth,
war zones.
impact spreads all over the world. according to Export Promotion
The impact of the Russia-Ukraine Bureau (EPB) data. In the 2021 Main container shipping
war has been felt in many areas, period Bangladesh exported companies have temporarily
including fuel, oil and gas. It has $687.81 million worth of apparel in suspended accepting bookings
also affected the global fashion the Russian market experienced to both countries since Russia-
industry. As a major supplier of 45.25% year-on-year growth in Ukraine war started on February
fashion items, Bangladesh is facing 2021 while in FY 2020, Bangladesh 24.
different challenges to continue its exported $593.66 million worth of Western nations announced a
business with these two conflicting apparel items to Russia. harsh set of sanctions to penalize
countries. Russia for starting the war against
Since the Bangladesh government
Textile Today explored the issue to started giving an additional 4% Ukraine. Also, they have blocked
figure out the impact and overall cash incentive on non-traditional some banks from the SWIFT
bilateral trade between Russia and markets in FY 2009-10 – the (Society for Worldwide Interbank
Bangladesh. We found that this Russian market has been growing Financial Telecommunication)
recent international event comes quite impressively. The EPB data international payments system.
as a major challenge after the also showed for the last 5 years SWIFT is the global financial artery
covid-19 pandemic which severely the apparel export in the Russian which allows the smooth and rapid
impacted the apparel industry of market has been steadily rising. transfer of money across borders.
Bangladesh. The punishments mark the core
On the other hand, in the Ukraine
Garments trade overview among market, Bangladesh exported of the Russian financial system
Bangladesh, Ukraine and Russia $31.78 million worth of textile, and this creates a headache for
apparel items in July-January of Bangladesh’s bilateral trade and
Bilateral trade with Russia was
FY 2021-22 Period, according to especially the readymade garment
US$1.14 billion in the last fiscal
EPB data. (RMG) export in Russia.
year (FY21). Bangladesh exported

An Innovation Hub

18 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


To p S t o r y

Russian lenders have been Bangladesh's last 5 years apparel export data in Russia
excluded from the SWIFT (In $mn) Source: EPB & compiled by: RDTI Cell, BGMEA
messaging system which creates
an uncertainty to continue trade 800
687.81
with Russia. 700
A top official of a reputed garment 600
factory of Bangladesh said that 482.43 473.54
500 466.7
they are facing trouble to get their 402.77
payment form Russian buyers. The 400
buyers are canceling orders also. 300
On the other hand, fashion brands
200
like H&M, Nike, and Puma have
altered their operations in Russia. 100
So, naturally the apparel export 0
from Bangladesh to Russia has Year 2017 Year 2018 Year 2019 Year 2020 Year 2021
declined and it will be continuing.


As Ukraine is suffering a lot for the in the scenario. There are other
war, so that Ukrainian buyers will ways of payment.”
also not take any cloths from any
“We are working with our Russian
country until the situation gets We are working with
buyers. They will work with
cool down. our Russian buyers.
alternative way. Thus we will be
They will work with
How Bangladesh garments able to continue our apparel
alternative way. Thus
industry responding export to Russian market.”
we will be able to
Faruque Hassan, President continue our apparel There are numerous international
of the Bangladesh Garment export to Russian banks operating in Russia.
Manufacturers and Exporters market.” Bangladeshi apparel exporters can
Association (BGMEA) said, operate their transaction through
“We have already directed our these international banks.
members to stop shipments of
“As for apparel shipment
garment items to Russia as the
challenges to Russian market – as
war is going on there and for the
some western carrier companies
potential ban on the SWIFT use.”
said they will halt goods export to
"We are worried about the Russian Russia – this will also be resolved
and Ukrainian markets. Uncertainty Engr. Harun- Or-Rashid soon. It is not a blanket ban by
has been created in the payment General Manager
all global carrier companies. As it
(responsible of Russian buyers)
and shipment following the is a very latest development, we
Renaissance Designs Limited
outbreak of the war," Faruque exporters and apparel makers will
Hassan added. find a way to send Bangladeshi
"We are not getting work orders
The BGMEA has instructed its apparel goods lying in ports to
from Russian buyers since the
members not to accept any new Russia,” Engr. Harun told.
western nation agreed to ban
work orders from Russia to avoid some Russian banks from using Currently we are manufacturing
any hassles in payments. the SWIFT system. It will create a products for Russian buyers. If
"Russian buyers should clear major barrier for us in the Russian the two issues (payment and
payments as soon as possible markets," Hatem added. shipment) are resolved, then
so that they do not fall into Bangladeshi RMG makers have
Alternative to SWIFT
any uncertainty in the time of nothing to worry.
Engr. Harun- Or-Rashid, General
Covid-19," Hassan said. “I will urge the leaders of BGMEA
Manager (responsible of Russian
Mohammad Hatem, Executive to give more responsible and
buyers), Renaissance Designs
President of the Bangladesh careful statements regarding
Limited, said to Textile Today,
Knitwear Manufacturers and getting the payment from
“First of all, to get payment – we
Exporters Association, said they Russian market. As these types of
all need to understand that SWIFT
are worried about the payment statements will lead to panic. Our
is not the only way of payment –
problem due to the uncertainty leaders should sit with Russian
as the global economy was not
over the use of SWIFT in Russia. and Bangladesh central banks and
stop when SWIFT was not present
discuss a way out,” he concluded.

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 19


In Focus

Budget for FY23: Textile


and apparel exporters want
constitution of existing
supports to recover
Staff Correspondent

"Prices of raw materials and other


logistics went up sharply, while
the global crisis is posing a threat
to export stability. While the
Covid-19 pandemic related shocks
are yet to be overcome," BGMEA
president Faruque Hassan argued
in materializing their demands.
Exports are doing better and in
the way of recovering from the
Covid-19 pandemic. We are facing
a liquidity crisis and soaring raw
materials prices expedited the
sorrows, said Hassan.
It is important to provide policy
support and continue existing
trade benefits to recover fully from
the pandemic, he added.
On top of that, apparel exporters
also sought withdrawal of 10%
income Tax on cash incentives
Figure: to retain present export growth momentum – country’s top textile and apparel against export earnings in the next
associations present their demands for next budget for the fiscal year 2022-23.
budget for FY 2022-23.

With a view to retain present and Bangladesh Garment Currently, exporters enjoy 4% cash
export growth momentum and Accessories and Packaging incentives against non-traditional
fully recover from the Covid-19 Manufacturers and Exporters markets, while 1% in all markets.
pandemic, country's apparel Association (BGAPMEA) made the In addition to this, BGMEA
and textile manufacturers want call in their budget proposal for the demanded Value Added Tax (VAT)
continuation of existing rates financial year 2022-23 placed to the withdrawal on raw materials or
including corporate and source National Board of Revenue (NBR). services collected through local
Taxes and exemption of import sources and used for export-
BGMEA's proposal for Budget FY23
duty on manmade fiber in the next oriented goods.
budget for the fiscal year 2022-23. The platform of the readymade
garment (RMG) exporters called Textile millers want VAT cut on all
Meanwhile, garment accessories kinds of yarn
for continuation of existing
and packaging products
corporate Tax and source Tax for Bangladesh Textile Mills
manufacturers demanded withdrawal
the next five years to overcome Association (BTMA), the platform
of corporate Tax for next three year
Covid-19 induced shocks as well as of the country's textile millers,
to recover from the Covid-19 fallout.
retain the present growth trend. urged the NBR to set VAT on all
Bangladesh Garment kinds of yarn regardless of fiber
Currently, apparel exporters have
Manufacturers and Exporters at Tk3 per kilogram in the next
to pay 0.5% source Tax and 12
Association (BGMEA), Bangladesh national budget for fiscal year
percent corporate Tax, which is
Textile Mills Association (BTMA) 2022-23.
10% for the green factory owners.

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20 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


In Focus

Under the existing rules, a miller the BTMA leader in the budget
has to pay Tk6 as VAT for a proposal. BGMEA
kilogram yarn made of manmade
Currently, the sector has to pay
fiber and other fiber.   ontinuation of existing
C
26.2% to 104.68% import duty on
corporate Tax & source
"Demands of goods made of spare parts used in textile mills.
Tax for 5 years
manmade fiber and recycled fiber However, they have to pay 1% duty
is growing very fast. It is becoming on import of capital machinery.   ithdrawal of 10% income
W
more popular to consumers due to its Tax on cash incentives
Accessories makers want
comfort, fanciness, and comparatively  AT withdrawal on raw
V
exemption of corporate Tax 
reasonable price," Mohammad Ali materials
Khokon, president of BTMA said. In bid to recover from the Covid-19
fallout, garment accessories and
Taking the issue into consideration
packaging products manufacturers
as a part of the government's
priority of product diversification,
demanded the government to BTMA
withdraw corporate Tax for the
the NBR should set VAT at Tk3 on  k3 per kg VAT on all
T
next three year in the next fiscal 
yarn made of manmade fiber and kinds of yarn
year 2022-23.
recycled fiber, said Ali.
The deemed exporters also called   ithdrawal of 15% VAT
W
It also called to withdraw 15% & 5% advanced Tax on
for reducing Tax at source to 0.25
VAT and 5 percent advanced pet chips
percent from 0.50% and fix it for
Tax on pet chips (textile grade),
next three years as final Tax.   eeping source Tax at
K
therapeutic acid, and ethylene glycol.
Apparel accessories makers have 0.5%
Besides, the organization also
to pay 32.5% corporate Tax and   ithdrawal of 2% Tax on
W
urged the government to keep Tax
0.50% Tax at source. locally purchased cotton
at source at 0.5% and treat it as
final settlement. In our apparel exports, garment  I ncreasing cotton waste
accessories played an important to 17% & 30%
On top of that, BTMA demanded
role in export earnings. It is an
withdrawal of 2 percent Tax on   eeping 15% income Tax
K
integral part of the sector and
cotton purchase from local sources. till 2026
it is procured through back to
It also asked to increase the waste back letter of credit (LC). Due to   uty & Tax free imports
D
of cotton from 10 percent and the supply chain disruption, the of fiber
12 percent to 17 percent and 30 prices of raw materials rose by  I mposing 1% duty on
percent to produce carded and up to 800%," Mohamad Moazzem spare parts imports
combed yarn. Hossain Moti BGAPMEA president,
said in the budget proposal.
The platform of the primary textile
sector also demanded to keep the
income Tax for the sector at 15%
But the global retailers and brands
did not increase the prices of
BGAPMEA
till 2026. goods, which led manufacturers to   ithdrawal of corporate
W
incur losses, said Moti. Tax for next 3 years
On the other hand, investment is
encouraged in the manmade fiber In the given context, it is difficult   educing source Tax to
R
by the apparel makers due to rise for the manufacturers to pay 0.50 0.25% for next 3 years
in demands of these products, percent Tax at source as well as
said the proposal. 32.5 percent corporate Tax, said
Figure: FY23 budget demand of
the business leader.
So, to encourage long term BGMEA, BTMA and BGAPMEA.
investment, the government As policy support to help earned $7 billion through deemed
should increase the deadline of recovery from the pandemic, the export of garment accessories and
the existing income Tax rate till government should reduce Tax packaging goods.
2026, it added. at source to 0.25 percent and
withdraw corporate Tax for next Out of this amount, nearly $1
Meanwhile, BTMA wants duty and billion is exported directly to
three years, said Moti.
Tax free imports of fiber including Turkey, Netherlands, South Africa,
recycled fiber used in spin Meanwhile, the accessories makers Pakistan, India, Middle East,
manufacturing. also called for cash incentives Ethiopia, Indonesia, Italy, Sri Lanka,
against the deemed exports of Turkmenistan, Germany, Austria
As there is no scope of misuse, the
accessories products. etc. Investment of this sector is
textile millers called for imposing
1% duty on imports of spare According to BGAPMEA, in the about Tk35000 crore and value
parts for the next budget, said fiscal year 2020-21 the sector addition is about 40%.

An Innovation Hub

22 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Opinion


It’s sad and disappointing
that till now the major
greenhouse gas-emitting
countries have failed to
deliver their promised
annual amount of US$100
billion dollars”

The Honorable Prime Minister


Figure 1: ‘Circular Economy’ is the future and only survival way-out for humans, of which,
climate-resilient and sustainable infrastructure is a key component. Sheikh Hasina

Infrastructure and
Logistics sectors of
Bangladesh: Neglected
issues (Part 2)
Md. Kamrul Bari MIPA AFA & Enamul Hafiz Latifee

Infrastructure, climate resilience action for their clients. The World


and circular economy Bank- International Bank for
Reconstruction and Development
Apart from these fundamental (IBRD) and International
concerns of the infrastructure Delay and deceptions of Development Association (IDA)
sector, building a climate-resilient the developed countries will also seek to ensure that 50%
infrastructure is also among the in climate financing of this financing will support
major concerns of the country. are pushing the whole adaptation and resilience.
‘Circular Economy’ is the future world, including
and only survival way-out for the Bangladesh, towards It is, however, important to
humans, of which, climate resilient disaster risks” remember that the leaders of
and sustainable infrastructure is some of the largest carbon
a key component. Besides, due emitters are always trying to
to growing awareness among strategically avoid or, intentionally
world leaders, climate funds are delay in either committing to or,
gradually becoming accessible. fulfilling their promises causing
The World Bank Group has frustration among the people of
announced that over the next Dr. Hasan Mahmud the world, especially the citizens
five years, 35% of the Bank Information and of the developing and the least
Group’s financing, on average, Broadcasting Minister developed countries who are
will go to supporting climate heavily affected by the adverse

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Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 23


Opinion

effects of the climate change.


Bangladesh net FDI inflow in 2021 (In $bn)
Bangladesh is also among
them. Even the ministers of the
Power 0.46
Government are accusing leaders
of the developed world saying that Telecommunication 0.24

the “Delay and deceptions of the Gas & petroleum 0.15


developed countries in climate Construction 0.05
financing are pushing the whole
Cement 0.04
world, including Bangladesh,
towards disaster risks” Computer software & IT 0.03

(Information and Broadcasting 0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5


Minister Dr. Hasan Mahmud at Figure 2: Trend of FDI inflow with projections until 2023 (Source: Bangladesh Bank and
a discussion at the Bangladesh author’s calculation).

pavilion of the COP 26).


rehabilitation of 182 kilometers
Move of Bangladesh government Logistics is another of roads with bridges/culverts
and global climate fund key area of concern and protective works to connect
for the country. cyclone shelters; to strengthen the
The Honorable Prime Minister Bangladesh has capacity of government agencies
Sheikh Hasina also expressed her moved down to to respond to emergency events
disappointment and said, “It’s sad the 100th position and reduce the vulnerability
and disappointing that till now the in the World of new buildings to disasters
major greenhouse gas-emitting Bank’s Logistics in Dhaka and Sylhet; to enable
countries have failed to deliver Performance Index climate resilience policies and
their promised annual amount (LPI) in 2018 from investments in water, transport,
of US$100 billion dollars”. She an earlier 82nd agriculture, finance, and planning
further presented the demands position in 2016. sectors; to improve inland water
of the Climate Vulnerable Forum transport (IWT) efficiency and
(CVF) members while presiding the safety of passengers and
over CVF leaders’ dialogue at the cargo along the Chittagong-
COP 26 and said, “Faced with Resilience Project (US$173 million), Dhaka-Ashuganj regional corridor
the existential threat of climate Climate Adaptation and Resilience as well as enhance the sector’s
change, we, the CVF members, at for South Asia (CARE) Project sustainability; providing policy
this COP, demand that developed (US$39.5 million), Bangladesh advice to the government,
countries provide a Delivery Plan Water Platform (BWP), South coordinating the activities of
of the total 500 billion dollars for Asia Water Initiative (SAWI), stakeholders to improve WRM,
each of the entire 5-year period etc., to rehabilitate and upgrade and developing and advancing
from 2020 to 2024, with a 50:50 of the polders- reclaimed, low- pipeline projects; promoting the
ratio between the adaptation and lying land areas protected by dialogue on transboundary water
mitigation”. Once the collective embankments- to guard the collaboration among riparian
voices of the leaders of the coastal areas against tidal flooding states (Bangladesh, Bhutan, India,
affected nations become large and storm surges; to support and Nepal), etc.
enough to force the deceptive the enhancement of agricultural
leaders of the rich and emitting production by reducing saltwater Climate vulnerability and
countries to release the necessary intrusion in selected polders, using investment requirement
climate funds, Bangladesh’s climate data and projections;
to strengthen the government’s However, these efforts are still
bottlenecks for building climate-
capacity to deliver reliable inadequate. Climate vulnerability
resilient infrastructure will be
weather, water, and climate requires significant investments in
greatly reduced, if not eliminated.
information services and improve building research infrastructure to
The World Bank and Bangladesh priority sectors’ and communities’ ensure innovating climate-resilient
access to those services; to reduce agricultural mechanisms, climate-
The World Bank has so far helped the vulnerability of the coastal resilient seeds, rehabilitation of
Bangladesh to take projects population to climate change farmers and farms, improving
such as- Coastal Embankment and natural disasters across nine crop yields, and many other
Improvement Project (CEIP)- coastal districts of cyclone-prone cross-cutting areas concerning
Phase I (US$400 million), areas by constructing 550 new agriculture and rehabilitation.
Multipurpose Disaster Shelter cyclone shelters, improving 450 Apart from these, sustainable river
Project (US$375 million), Urban existing shelters, construction or dredging, transforming power

An Innovation Hub

24 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Opinion

generation techniques, research on lower the logistics cost by 7 to Training in the mainstream has
the construction of self-sufficient 35% depending on the sector. caused potential employees to
and energy-efficient green Congestion also causes around remain semiskilled and in many
factories and offices, altering 60% of the annual carbon dioxide cases unskilled and unprepared for
curricula to include and promote (CO2) emissions, social costs of taking up the challenges of real life.
climate awareness, and research which are estimated to be 1.2% of GDP.
also fall under broader aspects We, therefore, suggest that the
of climate-related infrastructural High dwell times (the amount of Government of Bangladesh looks
and Climate-Resilient ecosystems time that cargo or ships spend deeper into the aforementioned
issues needing immediate within a port) increase the logistics issues to take integrated policy
attention of the government of the costs even further. Average dwell measures for ensuring complete
country. times at the Chittagong Port are 4 elimination of all infrastructural,
days for an export container and logistics, and their supporting
Bangladesh’s performance in the 11 days for an import container. sectors’ developmental
world ranking Sectoral policies, such as the impediments in order to help
Customs policies that limit inland accelerate balanced economic
Logistics is another key area containerization and allow only 37 growth of the country for turning
of concern for the country. commodities to be cleared outside us into a developed nation by 2041.
Bangladesh has moved down to the port, cause further logistical
the 100th position in the World inefficiencies in terms of both time
Bank’s Logistics Performance and money (The World Bank). The authors:
Index (LPI) in 2018 from an earlier Companies are not allowed to
82nd position in 2016. A closer open container freight stations at
look into the index indicates that locations far from the Chittagong
the country fared well in terms of Port, and empty containers are
tracking and tracing and timing treated as bonded goods. These
when compared with Pakistan. policies have led to an increase
If compared against Sri Lanka, in the number of vehicles on the
Bangladesh beats Sri Lanka in roads and have also increased
terms of International Shipments, congestion inside the Chittagong
tracking and tracing, and timing. Port, leading to further inefficient
However, when compared port operation. However, most of Md. Kamrul Bari MIPA AFA is a
against India and Vietnam, we these challenges also open doors qualified accountant and also a
are nowhere. The performance for foreign investments in the doctoral researcher at the IBA,
of the customs of Bangladesh is country’s logistics sector. However, University of Dhaka and Deputy
the lowest among other regional the need for policy reforms cannot Editor-in-Chief at the International
economies such as India, Sri Lanka, be overlooked either. Journal of Management and
Pakistan, and Vietnam. Accounting (IJMA). He can be
What is next? reached at bari.sarkar@gmail.com.
Moreover, RMG factories, the
largest exporters of the country, To address the needs of identifying
often report inefficient logistics as and implementing solutions to the
a significant share of their logistics aforesaid issues, we should must
costs. The same is true for other have a pool of talented, efficient,
sectors as well. Road transport skilled, and entrepreneurial
rates of the country range from employees and researchers. The
US$0.06 for a 16-ton truck to country’s education system has
US$0.12 for a trailer (in per ton, the most important role to play
per kilometer terms). It is higher in this regard. Unfortunately,
than most countries causing a the lack of quality education in Enamul Hafiz Latifee is a
significant constraint to export. academia led by the scarcity of Policy & Trade Economist, Joint
Studies show that the inventory skilled and experienced teachers, Secretary (Research Fellow),
carrying costs of the country is lack of appropriate training and Bangladesh Association of
US$21 (in per ton, per kilometer ineffective education policy along Software and Information
terms), which is also higher than with the social stigma of sending Services (BASIS). He can be
most countries of the world. kids to technical education and reached at ehlatifee@gmail.com
Traffic congestion on the roads inadequate policy supports to and viewed at
is another significant concern. promote and integrate Technical www.ehlatifee.com.
Removal of congestion alone can and Vocational Education and

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Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 25


Exclusive Interview

Figure 1: Prof. Md. Abul Kashem (MA Kashem) Vice-Chancellor, BUTEX.

More practical steps are


prerequisite closing the
industry-academia gap
BTT Interview

When it comes to textile imminent progress happening to in Textile Technology in 1981.


engineering education, there is close the gap between industry He received his PGD in Clothing
a gap between what industry and academy. Technology from the University of
desires and what universities Leeds in the United Kingdom in
MA Kashem, a renowned
offer. To close this gap, more and 1986 and an MSc in Textile Science
Bangladeshi educationist, is a
more practical steps are crucial and Engineering in 1986. Since
Professor in the Department of
to ensure collaboration between 2019, he has been serving as VC of
Apparel Engineering and the third
academic textile engineering BUTEX.
Vice-Chancellor of the University.
programs and industry.
Prior to his appointment, he was Here is the Illuminating part for the
Recently, Team Textile Today has the Chairman of the Bangladesh readers.
taken an interview with Prof. Md. Technical Education Board. He was
Textile Today: Kindly share us
Abul Kashem (MA Kashem) Vice- a student of the first batch of the
BUTEX’s recent updates.
Chancellor, Bangladesh University then College of Textile Technology
of Textiles (BUTEX). He discussed (present BUTEX) affiliated to Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: This
current status of textile education Dhaka University. From this historic university started its
as well as some continuous and college, he obtained a BSc degree journey as BUTEX in 2011.

An Innovation Hub

26 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Innovation in
Textile Chemicals
for a Sustainable society

Surface Science is
our core technology
having more than
80 years history in
chemicals from
Japan

finish
first

1 scour soap 3

dye

2
Exclusive Interview

excellent job.
With the adaption of industry
4.0, the textile industry is moving
forward at a breakneck speed and
daily adapting to new technology
and techniques to keep up with
the pace. We still feel a gap and
lack our students in exposure to
the industry.
Although our fourth-year students
go to factories for 2 months of
internships – but this is not enough
to grasp the vast development
taking place in the textile industry.
Similarly, the textile and apparel
(T&A) industry can be benefited
from our Ph.D. holder teachers
in terms of solving technical
challenges that happen during
production. So, we need to
Figure 2: ASM Tareq Amin, CEO; Sanjoy Saha, Sr. Manager (Industry
Engagement & Sub-Editor), Textile Today with Prof. Md. Abul Kashem. increase correspondence between
BUTEX and the industry.


Prime Minister, Sheikh Hasina Textile Today: Are there any
has upgraded this legendary practical steps taken to increase
educational institute as a connectivity between BUTEX and
university. Which enables higher The main catalyst for the industry?
R&D in the textile and jute sector transformation was highly
capable teachers and it needs Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: The
in the country. Creating efficient
considerable time. Back progress is not satisfactory at
and capable textile engineers
then we had only a handful all. Our doors are always open
for the textile industry – who
number of teachers. BUTEX for industry engagement. For
are enabling to cater the textile
took the initiative and created instance, BUTEX provides a testing
industry’s various challenges like
new teaching posts. We also service. Compared to private
process/product development,
sent our teachers abroad for firms’ lab testing fees are next
diversification, technical issues, etc.
higher degrees like Ph.D. to nothing. Our textile factories
Having said that, the main catalyst The university has been should come here and avail the
for transformation was highly providing adequate funding service more.
capable teachers and it needs for research. In addition, we Besides, for executive efficiency
considerable time. Back then we are progressively increasing development, we have a center
had only a handful number of the amount that will bolster called Executive Development
teachers. BUTEX took the initiative the research capability of both Center (EDC) – where we are
and created new teaching posts. teachers and students." providing a free 10-month long
We also sent our teachers abroad
Prof. Md. Abul Kashem
training program for mid-level
for higher degrees like Ph.D. The
Vice-Chancellor, BUTEX. management.
university has been providing
adequate funding for research. From an academic perspective,
In addition, we are progressively in our council, planning and
academic building. Where we will
increasing the amount that will development council and in
be able to provide higher R&D and
bolster the research capability of various academic committees – we
lab facilities for more sophisticated
both teachers and students. have members from organizations
textile studies. Which will enable
like BGMEA, BTMA, BKMEA, etc.
As for the academic perspective, BUTEX students to cater more
to increase their participation with
from this year BUTEX will offer a sophisticated challenges of the
BUTEX.
regular Master's degree program, textile industry.
as well as, a Ph.D. program. This As I said above, we have
On a bird's eye view, as a
will be a jewel in the crown of BUTEX. strengthened our research
torchbearer university in
capability, and one aspect of
Also, note that very recently Bangladesh – in making textile
that is BUTEX is encouraging its
BUTEX inaugurated a 15 storied graduates – BUTEX is doing an
faculty members to conduct their

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28 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Exclusive Interview

research in collaboration with And you have stressed the need the Ministry of Textiles and Jute –
the industry. Thus our teachers for product diversification, the Dept. of Textiles is operating 8
will gain firsthand experience innovation in the textile sector as textile engineering colleges. Where
in solving day-to-day industry the way forward. Kindly elaborate these colleges are providing B.Sc.
problems and students will gain your opinion regarding the future in Textile Engineering certificate
that experience from them. paradigm shift of our textile programs.
industry.
Textile Today: As you rightly BUTEX is providing academic
highlighted regarding research, Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: As an affiliation to these colleges. As
kindly share with us in which academician, I see that the future well, we are also looking after
sector should we prioritize while paradigm shift lies in developing in the examination and certification
conducting any research? the textile sector. For instance, we of these 8 textile engineering
are importing almost all the textile colleges.
Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: At the
dyes and chemicals. The same
moment, the industry is mainly On top of it, to produce quality
goes for textile machinery design
focusing on export-oriented diploma engineers the Dept. of
and maintenance. This capability
products and sectors. But there is Textiles have textile institutes.
development will be a game-
a huge opportunity in the primary Besides, to create skilled
changer in our textile industry.


textile sector in terms of high-end manpower in the textile industry –
fiber development for making the govt. opened textile vocational
value-added apparel. Similarly, institutes.
in all types of raw material and
BUTEX opened two new Meaning, the infrastructure is there
material development research is
departments. One is Dyes and the textile education sector is
the need of the hour.
& Chemical Engineering getting more and more focus to
In BUTEX’s perspective, we are Department. The graduates cater to the increasing progress.
highly focusing on research on will play a critical role in Also, there are almost 20 private
textile raw material – also in fabrics making dyes and chemicals in universities who have textile
development and other sectors. near future. On the machinery departments.
Also, we are procuring textile raw side, we have opened a new Textile Today: Kindly share us the
material related equipment. department called Machinery quality of these textile vocational
Textile Today: As for fiber Design & Maintenance institutes.
research, we know that Department.
Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: Quality is
Bangladesh is dependent on
Prof. Md. Abul Kashem a continuous process, especially in
imported cotton. Whereas, jute is
Vice-Chancellor, BUTEX. the education sector. Not only in
the homegrown fiber and BUTEX
BUTEX, we continuously suggest
used to have two departments i.e.
and guide the Dept. of Textiles
cotton and jute. Over the years
regarding the building of quality of
jute study and research have been To bridge the gap – BUTEX teachers in the 8 affiliated textile
neglected. So, what is BUTEX’s opened two new departments. colleges. As, it is apparent that
viewpoint regarding jute? One is Dyes & Chemical these institutes do not have up to
Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: Yes, this Engineering Department. The the mark faculty – needed to cater
is a pathetic reality that over graduates will play a critical role in to the top-notch textile sector.
the years – along with the jute making dyes and chemicals in near And I want to re-emphasize the
sector’s decline, jute study and future. On the machinery side, we Dept. of Textiles – also in private
research has been ignored too. have opened a new department universities – on having quality
Students have lost interest in jute called Machinery Design & teachers this is a must everywhere.
study. To revive from this, we have Maintenance Department.
Textile Today: Kindly share us the
taken a new initiative to open a Textile Today: As you have impact of COVID-19 in education.
separate department for jute. At depicted the prominence of
the moment, we are finalizing the Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: It has
education in the T&A industry.
curriculum and syllabus. We are greatly hampered our education,
How do you see Bangladesh’s
going to do an awareness-building no doubt about that. Although,
overall textile education?
seminar where jute experts will through the online classes we have
Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: Yes, tried to cover the theoretical part.
be present. We hope that this
textile education is the artery of And now covering the practical
initiative will create fresh and
the Bangladesh T&A industry. The part when the pandemic lockdown
capable graduates for the sector.
Bangladesh govt. is also gave was relaxed a bit. However, we
Textile Today: Bangladesh’s textile prioritized the textile education need at least around 2 years to
and apparel industry is now 40 and took various initiatives. Under recover from session jams.
years old and it is quite mature.

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Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 29


Opinion

Future
leaders-
future skills-
2025! (Part ii)
Engr. Anisul Hoque Ansari

Introduction: While discussing about the future daily for thyself only, secondly balance work and
leadership in the changed world, we had discussed personal life. Third, focus on accepting events,
few topics in first phase which were as below- people and environments those brings peace in mind
and help to learn certain positive things.
Trends of retail business in EU/US and other
buying territories in last 10 years To embrace Qs, we may invest time on listening
learning videos, reading books and getting involved
Impact on the manufacturing hubs in SEA/SA market
with same minded peoples around. For example-
(Who are the major competitors for BD RMG)
A. To embrace Intelligence Quotient (IQ): This is
Who are the future leaders in RMG manufacturing
the measure of your comprehension ability", solve
business?
math; memorize things and recall subject matters.
In ‘Why re skilling is needed and steps for re We may keep asking why, why and why before doing
skilling’ - part we discussed Step-01: Mind Your Qs any task every day. It will lead us to find reasons
(Understanding IQ, EQ, SQ and AQ). and goals of doing any task and measure them with
numbers, analyze results and find improvement
There are four types of intelligence
points consequently. With this quotient, people
become successful in managing big projects, difficult
tasks.
Intelligence Emotional B. To embrace Emotional Quotient (EQ): This
quotient (IQ) quotient (EQ)
is the measure of your ability to maintain peace
with others; to keep time; be responsible; be
honest; respect boundaries; be humble, genuine
and considerate. We must adapt few basics in our
Social Adversity
quotient (SQ) quotient (AQ) personal life, being honest & humble, listen more
than talk, being helpful to others & practicing a

Step-02: Manage and embrace


your Qs and Step-03: Practical Business Mapping Digitization
barriers to re skilling and possible Strategy & Tactics Big Data(lot)
solutions-- will be discussed in
this second and final phase.
Step-02: Managing and
embracing Qs 1 2 3 4
Before managing Qs, we should
learn to discard certain habits first
and start re learning those habits
Process Improvements Mechanizations
through controlling our emotions,
People's development Automation
needs and expectations. First
thing first, is to invest few hours

An Innovation Hub

30 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


R

APNA ORGANICS PVT. LTD.


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4. Is capable of suspending and dispersing the soil during
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www.apnaorganics.in
Opinion

punctual life style. While we calibrate ourselves understanding things under our own comfort zones.
with above basics, our deliveries to others will be Thus first thing first is unlearning. This is the toughest
focused, passionate, simple and attractive, will learn phase and only this can help us to set a learning
to respect boundaries and most importantly we will mindset for re skilling. For this unlearning phase,
be able to accomplish any difficult task with peace in we need to challenge our emotional states and
mind. expectation levels lot with enormous efforts to break
ourselves, to break our ego and to stay low profile
C. To embrace Social Quotient (SQ): This is the
despite of having a glorious lifestyle already. This
measure of our ability to build a network of friends
unlearning phase may include the way we handle our
and maintain it over a long period of time. To
food and sleep cycles, leisure times, organizational
embrace this, we must be a giver, a good listener
behavior, friend’s lists and many more. It takes a lot
and proactive to make friends with same minded
of passion and long term visionary goals to break the
people. Your EQ represents your character; your SQ
ego in pieces and modify it into a soft clay. Only then
represents your charisma. Give in to habits that will
we will be ready to be re skilled.
improve these three Qs but more especially your EQ
and SQ. EQ and SQ make one manage better than The dynamics of global manufacturing are shifting.
the other. Usually great leaders have higher EQ & SQ, In this environment, manufacturing companies are
while many professionals with higher IQ work under rethinking their location strategies and not simply
those leaders with lower IQ but higher EQ & SQ. following the path of lowest wages. Rock-bottom
wages matter a lot in some segments, such as
D. To embrace Adversity Quotient (AQ): The
garment manufacturing, but in most manufacturing
measure of your ability to go through a rough patch
industries, hourly labor is less than 20% of costs. A
in life and come out without losing your mind. AQ
bigger challenge for many manufacturers is access
determines who will give up in face of troubles and
to high-skill talent, both for the shop floor and for a
may abandon their families.
growing number of service-like occupations within
In the current context of Corona, many professionally manufacturing.
successful people are going thru bouts of
It is important to remember that manufacturing is
Depression. Because they haven't seen and thus are
not monolithic and that there is a wide range of
unprepared for Adversity. To embrace this quotient,
manufacturing industries — from the very labor-
we have to control our emotions from over flowing
intensive and resource/energy-intensive to the very
in any circumstances, manage our expectations and
R&D intensive.
adapt simple living. It is the most important quotient
as it determines our EGO state and gives us a Advanced economies run a $726 billion surplus in
wakeup call get rid of that and improve our resilience such goods, against a $342 billion deficit in labor-
and calibration ability. intensive goods. When we look at the needs of
different manufacturing industries and the sources of
Step-3: Practical barriers to Re skilling and possible
growth in manufacturing demand, we see that while
solutions
"re-shoring" — shifting some jobs back to wealthy
During a matured age it’s very difficult to embrace nations — is a welcome development that may help
the re skilling as we already had an ego state of restore some of the huge losses that manufacturing
suffered in the past decade, it is unlikely to reverse
the long-term trend in manufacturing employment.
Let us refresh our memories with the legendary
statement by Paulo Coelho:
At the end of this two
phases of write up, I
MQ
Moral-ethical intelligence
Moral values and vision,
responsible for decision convey my courtesy
making
to World Economic
Creating new ideas products, forum, Harvard
CQ INQ novel solutions, discovering
Business School.
Creative
intelligence
+ Innovative
intelligence
and/or combining methods
in the new ways
Managing mutual
SQ EQ Author:
Social
intelligence
+ Emotional
intelligence
relationships and controlling
own emotions

IQ
Intellectual/mental intelligence
Mathematical, logical and
verbal intelligence

Physical body awareness and


PQ
Physical intelligence
efficient use of the body
Engr. Anisul Hoque Ansari
APRM™ I CSSBB™ I TPS™ I CBSI™

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32 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Export Updates

Apparel exports earning grows 30.73% in last eight months


Sayed Abdullah

Bangladesh apparel export earnings achieved new Bangladesh apparel & textile export amount in July
milestone in July to February of FY2021-22. to Feb of FY2021-22 (In $bn) Source: EPB
30 27.49
According to data from the Export Promotion
Bureau (EPB), apparel exports earned $27.49 billion 25
between July to February of FY2021-22. Growing 20
by 30.73% in the first 8 months of the current fiscal. 15.06
15 12.42
Which was $21.03 billion in the same period last FY.
10
Among the readymade garment (RMG) export
knitwear sector export earnings fetched $15.06 5
0.99
billion, growing by 32.87% year-on-year. 0.019
0
RMG Knitwear Woven Home Special woven
While woven products export earned $12.42 billion, growing textile & knitted fabric
by 28.23% year-on-year in the July-February period.
"Rather, we have asked the EU for an extension on
Faruque Hassan, President of Bangladesh Garment the tariff benefits for Bangladesh even after the
Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) country's LDC graduation. We got a favorable reply
said, "We are hopeful that the buoyance in garment from the EU. Our Asian markets are also showing
exports will continue to grow as we have already great promise for garment items," he added.
booked an increased volume of work orders from
Apart from RMG exports other textile and apparel
international retailers and brands,".
categories also achieved significant mileage in terms
“From BGMEA, we are taking our campaign to push of export growth.
apparel diplomacy forward. And in the last few
In July-February of FY2021-22, home textile exports
months, the BGMEA team visited North America
earned $0.99 billion. Witnessing 35.98% growth.
and Europe as part of apparel diplomacy,” Faruque
Hassan added. While terry towel exports earned $31.28 million.
Witnessing a 19.39% growth.
BGMEA President said, “Last week me and my
colleagues from BGMEA Board visited Brussels and Special woven fabric exports earned $21.80 million.
Geneva as a continuation of this initiative. In this visit, we Witnessing a mammoth 55.49% growth year-on-year.
met with the Director-General of WTO and the Director-
Knitted fabrics exports earned $169.78 million.
General of ILO in their respective offices in Geneva.”
Witnessing a staggering 299.67% growth year-on-year.
“We are also trying to increase the prices from our buyers.
Also, manmade filaments & staple fibers exports
No buyers asked anything regarding the European markets
earned $155.23 million. Witnessing 99.76% growth in
as the business is continuing as usual," Hassan said.
the first 8 months of the current fiscal.

Pakistan's textile & apparel exports earnings grow 24.73% in last seven months
Sohel Ahmed

Pakistan's textile & apparel exports witnessed a According to data from Pakistan Bureau of Statistics,
massive 24.73% year-on-year growth in July-January during the period, Pakistan earned $10.933 billion
of FY2021-22. from textile and apparel exports, compared to $8.765
billion in July-January 2020-21.
Pakistan's textile & apparel exports amount in July-Jan of FY2021-22
(In $bn) Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics
12 Among the exports, knitwear segment exports
10.93
witnessed 32.76% year-on-year growth to $2.887
10
billion during the July-January of FY2021-22.
8
While exports of non-knit garments were up 21.98%
6 to $2.163 billion.

4 Among textiles, cotton yarn exports grew by 41.41%


2.89
2.16 1.92 to $687.857 million in July-January 2021-22. While
2 1.35
0.68 exports of cotton fabric also increased by 24.41% and
0
Overall Knitwear Non-knit Cotton Home Cotton
were valued at $1.351 billion during the period.
textile & garments fabric textile yarn
apparel exports Bedwear exports rose by 19.25% to $1.924 billion
during the July-January of 2021-22 period.

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 33


Advertorial

organIQ EMS jeans – The benchmark


for sustainable jeans finishing
CHT Story

With the organIQ BLEACH system family were developed on the advancement. The next generation
the CHT Group was the first textile highest ecological level. The of organIQ is a big step in the
chemical supplier, who offered an different bleaching agents are right direction towards sustainable
ecological alternative to potassium purely organic and completely Jeans production”, says Thomas
permanganate as a bleaching biodegradable. Aplas, Head of Application Field
treatment for Denim. Today, CHT's Garment at the CHT Group.
Jeans finishing in a nutshell
organIQ products reach beyond
Different environmental benefits
the limits of the standards and are • A common Jeans treatment
state of the art in ecological jeans involves the use of Potassium The new EMS Jeans family
production worldwide. Permanganate, Chlorine and supports most modern denim
Pumice Stones. finishing processes. By using
In recent years, CHT has continued
selected organIQ products
to research and further develop • Permanganate has a highly toxic
together with water saving
the organIQ system step by impact to wastewater and is
nebulization technologies,
step. The mission was to find classified as CMR substance.
extremely low water consumptions
enhancements to the organIQ • Chlorine gives a high pollution can be achieved.
range that further optimise the to the wastewater.
system from an ecological point of Due to this technology, all relevant
• Both substances require separate treatments can be realized at
view and at the same time provide
neutralization steps for which room temperature which is a
even more variable and broader
additional, critical chemicals are great energy saving opportunity.
application possibilities.
needed in most of the cases. Moreover, the pollution of
wastewater with toxic substances
can be drastically reduced in
comparison to common, previously
applied denim treatments.
What does “Modular System”
stand for?
organIQ EMS Jeans is based on
several modules and every module
corresponds to a treatment step.
These steps can be mixed and
matched in various ways and
flexible orders to achieve a great
deal of looks and effects. This
Figure: With the organIQ BLEACH system the CHT Group was the first textile chemical variety of combinations leads
supplier, who offered an ecological alternative to potassium permanganate as a to almost unlimited possibilities
bleaching treatment for Denim. Courtesy: Jacob Rank, unsplash.com
to achieve any desired finish. Of
With organIQ EMS Jeans we course, realised on the highest
• Pumice Stones are no unlimited
have created a variable solution ecological level.
resource and are creating huge
offering that provides almost
amounts of slush in the wastewater. organIQ EMS System
infinite possibilities for state-of-
demonstrates perfectly, that
the-art jeans finishing. With this organIQ EMS Jeans by CHT
there is never a standstill of
now launched next generation, allows for the realization of almost
development within CHT’s
CHT’s organIQ family becomes every denim finish without all these
Smart Chemistry with Character
a real modular system. We call it questionable substances or resources.
approach. The offer will continue
organIQ EMS Jeans, which means “From our point of view, it should to grow, and by working out new
Ecological Modular System for be a general and common aim ideas in the future it will become
Jeans treatment. of all market players, to replace even more extensive and useful.
Of course, “Ecology” is the critical and harmful chemicals in
Discover more on www.cht.com/
crucial attribute and the essential the whole denim industry. The
organiq
commonality of all components. CHT Group can and will play a
All products of the organIQ leading role in this ecological

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34 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Retail Business

Do box stores benefit


by incorporating
MicroFulfillment?
Emily Newton

Supply chain disruptions and rising stores for pickup. These fulfillment
demand have made fulfillment centers may be states away from
much more difficult for big box the customer or store.
stores. Now, some retailers are
Recently, businesses have been
turning to microfulfillment to
forced to expand their fulfillment
get products to customers. This
capacities in response to the
new fulfillment strategy brings
pandemic and changing consumer
fulfillment work and infrastructure
needs. In addition to buying
closer to retail locations.
more, customers are also buying
While microfulfillment can require differently – often shopping online
significant changes to in-store and taking advantage of fulfillment
layout or big investments in options like in-store pickup.
new fulfillment centers, it could
Instead of expanding centralized
become necessary if supply chain
fulfillment centers, some
shortages continue to linger.
businesses are adopting a
microfulfillment strategy –
distributing fulfillment and, in Figure 2: Fulfillment strategies are
some cases, integrating it directly centralized, meaning large fulfillment hubs
receive online orders, pack them, and ship
in stores. them directly to customers or local stores
for pickup. Courtesy: Collected
The strategy allows businesses
to take advantage of warehouse-
or work with a provider of third-
based logistics, which often
party logistics (3PL) that can
leverages automation and
manage its fulfillment centers.
other technologies to maximize
efficiency while bringing logistics How Do Businesses Use
closer to customers. In practice, Microfullfilment?
the benefits of microfulfillment There are two broad approaches
include faster delivery times and to microfulfillment: the in-store model
lower last-mile-delivery costs. and the hub-and-spoke model.
A distributed fulfillment system In-store microfulfillment renovates
can also simplify reverse stores to dedicate some amount of
Figure 1: Supply chain disruptions and logistics for both customers and floor space to an in-house logistics
rising demand have made fulfillment businesses. Managing reverse
much more difficult for big box stores. center. This center will process
Courtesy: Collected logistics can be difficult, especially local online orders and in-store
during peak season, but local pickup orders while also providing
What Is Microfulfillment? fulfillment centers provide logistics support to the store.
customers and businesses with
Most fulfillment strategies are With the hub-and-spoke model,
more options for handling the
centralized, meaning large businesses create local distribution
return of items.
fulfillment hubs receive online centers or “dark stores” not
orders, pack them, and ship them The company may operate its accessible by consumers. These
directly to customers or local microfulfillment operations directly are smaller logistics centers that

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36 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Retail Business

serve a region or area.


Which Stores Are Using
Microfullfilment?
Many major retailers
are experimenting with
microfulfillment in one form or
another. In particular, businesses
in industries that had to expand
their e-commerce offerings to stay
competitive in 2020 and 2021 –
like big-box and fashion retailers –
are prioritizing microfulfillment.
Target, for example, began
experimenting with a “sortation
center model” in 2021 to support
its strategy of in-store fulfillment. Figure 3: Major retailers are experimenting with microfulfillment in one form or another.
The company’s sortation centers Courtesy: Collected
provide support to local stores and
handle last-mile delivery for the
These companies manage Will More Stores Adopt Store-
area.
fulfillment centers that are close Based Fulfillment?
This combination strategy, to major retail locations, providing
The supply chain disruptions that
which utilizes both an in-store many essential fulfillment services
have plagued retailers for the past
and hub-and-spoke approach for the retailers they work with.
few years are likely to continue.
to microfulfillment, allows the
Smaller retailers still recovering While experts think many
business to support in-store
from the pandemic are the most shortages will begin to resolve
pickup and streamline online
likely to work with these brands. themselves this year, retailers may
delivery operations.
The fashion industry, for example, not see a return to normal until
Walmart also announced plans was hit extremely hard by the well into the future.
to greatly expand its fulfillment beginning of the pandemic.
Microfulfillment helps retailers
strategy in 2021 by building
Most fashion retailers can’t distribute their logistics operations
microfulfillment centers equipped
afford to practice in-store and simplify last-mile delivery.
with automation technology.
microfulfillment, but they may be The approach can help businesses
Experts believe the strategy could
able to benefit from a hub-and- save money and reduce delivery
help Walmart significantly reduce
spoke approach, either directly times. It may also allow businesses
the cost of last-mile delivery,
owned by the store or powered by to take full advantage of cutting-
which often accounts for between
3PL. edge warehouse technology, like
27-30% of a retailer’s total logistics
picking and packing robots.
costs. These microfulfillment hubs allow
businesses to take advantage
Amazon has greatly expanded its
of cutting-edge warehouse
fulfillment strategy by investing
technology. Gap, Inc. and
heavily in local fulfillment
American Eagle Outfitters, for
strategies that bring warehouse
example, are both investing in
logistics closer to customers.
warehouse robotics that will allow
Smaller Retailers Primarily Rely them to streamline warehouse and
on Out-of-Store Microfullfilment fulfillment operations for online
Strategies orders.
Smaller retailers, if they are The robots are built primarily to
adopting the microfulfillment handle picking and packing. As Author: Emily Newton,
model, don’t usually have the most warehouses face a significant Editor-in-Chief,
Revolutionized Magazine.
store space to practice in-store labor shortage, the technology
microfulfillment. Instead, they could help these companies – and
may work with one of a growing other large fashion retailers –
number of 3PL companies that improve logistics efficiency and
offer microfulfillment services. navigate the ongoing shortage.

An Innovation Hub

38 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Adelco representative MaxChoice
ties with Textile Today Innovation
Hub to explore innovation scopes
Shohel Ahmed

MaxChoice Commerce and Technology - the local the best output from the installed machines.”
representative of Adelco Screen Process Ltd. has
Marzan Hossain told, “Our vision is to be the market
recently became a Textile Today Associate (TTA)
leader with our solution and customer satisfaction.
to discover innovation opportunities in Bangladesh
MaxChoice will try its best with the printing
textile and apparel (T&A) industry through Textile
technologies and diversified knowledge in textile
Today Innovation Hub.
printing to carry the industry forward.”
In the signing event Marzan Hossain, CEO, MaxChoice
Tareq Amin said, “We are very happy to have
Commerce and Technology and Tareq Amin, Founder
MaxChoice Commerce and Technology as associates
& CEO, Textile Today signed on behalf of the
of Textile Today Innovation Hub.”
respective companies at MaxChoice Commerce and
Technology office premise on 1st March. “I believe this association will bring innovative STB
projects in screen printing areas which have become
This collaboration among MaxChoice Commerce and
more popular nowadays. The outcome of the project
Technology and Textile Today will achieve innovation
will help the industries to unearth the effective ways
in the T&A industry. And advance with a number of
to go forward with best possible technologies,” Tareq
innovative projects with the Textile Today Innovation
Amin added.
Hub.
Since 2007, Max Choice is one of the leading textile
Marzan Hossain said, “Our partner principle Adelco
process solution providers in Bangladesh. And
are a world-class manufacturer of oval automatic
contributing to enhance productivity and efficiency
screen printing presses serving the International
as well as help build up a developed and modern
garment printing industry. Maxchoice is introducing
industry in Bangladesh.
the technologies of Adelco with the Industry and
also ready to provide the technical support to get Apart from the processing they have continuous

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 39


Steering Innovation Tra d e & B i z

bleaching, washing and CPB dyeing, finishing range,


warehouse solution, material handling, fabric makeup
machine, fabric dyeing, yarn dyeing & automation
solution, warping and sizing solution, printing
machine & dryer.
By partnering with MaxChoice Commerce and
Technology ‘Textile Today Innovation Hub’ will
expand to a larger scale that is already working
on various industry projects to support, facilitate,
innovate and enrich the textile industry.
Becoming a part of this ‘Innovation Hub’ Textile
Figure 2: MaxChoice Commerce and Technology and Textile Today
Today Associates will be allowed to utilize the team in the memento handover ceremony.
platform’s knowledge, communication, and
networking leverage in the market as an innovation- Manager – Sales & Marketing; T.H.S. Mamun, Asst.
driven business. Manager, MaxChoice Commerce and Technology;
In the memento handover ceremony Md. Khirul Amzad Hossain Monir, Head of Business
Alam Jony, Senior Manager – Sales & Marketing; Development and Rahbar Hossain, Asst. Manager,
Md. Jubayer Hossain, Manager; Moinul H. Shuvro, Sales and Marketing, Textile Today were present.

Australian market assures duty & quota free


access for BD despite LDC graduation
S N Abdullah

Australia officially guaranteed the continuance of dynamism in economic ties.


duty-free and quota-free facility to Bangladesh
The JWG agreed to involve relevant private sectors
exports even after graduation out of Least
and encouraged institutional linkages between
Developed Countries (LDC) in 2026.
apex trade bodies of the two countries to further
strengthen bilateral trade.
Australia and Bangladesh also agreed to improve
industry connections between Australian exporters
of raw materials like cotton, wool, hides and
importers & manufacturers in Bangladesh.
Exploring options to involve with global value chains as
well as third-country markets and 'buy back' finished
goods made from Australian inputs. They would
arrange consultations on LNG sales to Bangladesh
Figure: Australia has officially assured the continuation of duty- including on innovative options around Bangladesh's
free and quota-free treatment to Bangladesh exports even after preferred government-to-government arrangement.
graduation out of LDC in 2026.
Australian investors were stimulated to invest in
In a recent meeting of joint working group (JWG) Bangladesh and in specific in infrastructure sectors in
on trade and investment held on 22 February at Bangladesh. Australia expressed keenness to explore
Canberra, the assurance was officially given. investment opportunities in the infrastructure,
Under the agreement of Trade and Investment energy, mining and ICT sectors.
Framework Arrangement (TIFA), Australia and Australia also agreed to support Bangladesh in
Bangladesh formed JWG to consider all features of capacity building and human resource development
improved trade and investment in both countries. through cooperation on technical and vocational
Hon Dan Tehan, Trade Minister, Australia sent a education for enabling a greater number of Bangladeshi
video message for the JWG meeting, where he said, students to pursue higher studies in Australia.
"Australia and Bangladesh are moving to a new level Australia expressed willingness to provide training
of partnership, one based on shared interests, values, on the Australian Fumigation Accreditation Scheme
and people-to-people links and increasingly marked to help Bangladeshi producers and exporters meet
by the dynamism of the commercial ties." regulatory standards of the Australian market.
Australia decided to initiate a study on prospects The next JWG meeting will held in Bangladesh early
of greater trade and investment flow for adding next year.

An Innovation Hub

40 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Experience Group Corporate Offices
Bangladesh Address: UK Address:
House # 1 (6th Floor), Road # 13, Sector # 01, Uttara, 44, Worship Street, Broadgate
Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh. London, EC2A2EA.
info@experience-bd.com fazil@fazil.co.uk
+88(0)24-8955492 +44(0)20-74263700
© EXPERIENCE GROUP ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 2021
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 15, Issue 03 l Pages 43 to 60

March 2022

March 2022
Why manufacturers Successful development Bangladesh's 10
facing troubles to of nanofibrous facemask giant apparel
provide workers’ from recycled PET exporters in
salaries bottle 2021
Industry Insight

Why manufacturers facing troubles


to provide workers’ salaries
A.K.M Saifur Rahman Farhad, CEO, Wikitex-BD

Business around the world was revenue. After the bank's payment Many people took the incentive
devastated by the COVID flood and other utility expenses, the money given by the government
forced to close or lose business salary money is not enough which without realizing it. Payment is
due to sales decline. When the creating dissatisfaction among workers. actually deducted from the account
world market started returning of Bangladesh Bank and there is no
To survive during COVID many
after overcoming all obstacles, salary remaining for the worker.
workers started doing various jobs
different kinds of instability started
such as hawker, auto-rickshaw Shipment is being delayed due
in our garment industry.
driving, grocery store, farm to shortage of labor, even order
etc. When they saw that it was is being canceled due to non-
possible to raise 15/20 thousand timely import payment due to
taka, they were no longer overpayment of his payment in the
interested in returning to their old bank account. It is getting late to
profession. Many are even starting open the LC again.
something as a self-entrepreneur.
Its back-to-back LC limit is being
Workers in the garment industry in blown up in order to cope with
Dhaka or its environs come mainly the pressure of late shipments and
from North Bengal or different extra orders.
districts of the country. But in the
New companies are being set up
last few years, the number of jobs
with the help of bankers to get
created by different industries or
new loans. New loans are being
industrial cities form other districts
used to pay interest on old loans.
Figure: RMG factories are not able to
of the country.
utilize their full production due to a lack Cash flow is a big problem for
An unhealthy competition has
of required workers. everyone now, there is business
started among the industry
but no opportunity! Because many
As retailers have gone bankrupt owners to supply these workers.
people are not able to overcome
in the last few years, so has the For example, a person who pays
the amount of loss. The only way
supply chain, and hundreds of 12,000 taka is taking 14,000 taka,
to overcome all these obstacles is
manufacturers have gone bankrupt even if he joins the factory in the
to make the right decision at the
which means it's about to be the most middle of the month, he will pay
right time. For example, not over-
delusional time of the year, as well. only after paying the payment slip
trading means not taking orders
of the previous factory. Factory
Suddenly when the retail business beyond one's means, not doing
management says if someone
has started to return, buyers unnecessary overtime.
brings a wrecker I will give him
are placing lots of orders at Above all, the government should
500 taka so he is joining another
once which is good news for us. extend incentive loan installments,
factory with 10/15 people, many
However, factories are not doing provide policies and training for
factories are going one step
enough profit. Many people ask new workers, and facilitate the
further and saying that if you work
why the factories are not able import and export process. Then,
6 hours, you will get paid 10 hours!
to pay on time as there are so I believe that many industrial
many orders. Why one industry On the other hand, banking has
establishments can make a long-
after another is being closed? The also become a challenge as all
term contribution to the economy
situation is like “Don't nag me, and the banks are following the policy
and development of the country.
leave me in peace.” of slow-moving in the field of
the garments industry. When the Author:
Reality is-these huge orders
factory is not able to generate
are becoming a liability for us
full revenue due to shortage
because there are not enough
of workers, the bank loan, the
workers! Factories are not able
incentive money taken during the A.K.M Saifur
to utilize their full production due
Covid time, is not in hand after the Rahman Farhad
to a lack of required workers. It
bank deducts. CEO, Wikitex-BD
creates difficulty to generate full

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 45


An initiative of Textile Today
45 Industry Insight 54-55 Innovation
Award
The Team

Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO

Denim Processing Plant Ltd


- DPPL attains LEED Gold
Amzad Hossain Monir Certification
Head of Business Development Why manufacturers facing
troubles to provide workers’
salaries 56 Exporters'
Profiles
Rahbar Hossain 47-50 Innovation Bangladesh's 10 giant apparel
Shohel Ahmed exporters in 2021
Ibrahim Khalil
Business Development

57 Industrial Best
Practices
SN Abdullah
Nurunnahar Tania
Research & Development Successful development of
nanofibrous facemask from
recycled PET bottle
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
Engagement & Communication
51-52 Innovation
Award Epyllion champion of 6th
BGMEA cup 2021
Yeasin Mia
Graphic Design
58-59 Technology
Today

Zakir Hossain
Jr. Executive, Web & IT

4A Yarn Dyeing Ltd


monumentalizes LEED
Ashraful Alam
Platinum achievement
Cinematographer

Aerosol Technology

Md. Ariful Islam 52 Industrial Best Practices


Md. Masudur Rahman
ILO praises BD RMG manufacturers for creating safe workplace
Abir Basak
Editorial Contributions

Inquiry:
M. +88 01775 99748
E. monir@textiletoday.com.bd
W. www.textiletoday.com.bd
Innovation

Successful development
of nanofibrous facemask
from recycled PET bottle
Rahbar Hossain

This innovative
development is the
output of a project of
the Textile Talent Hunt
7th season competition
organized by Textile
Today under the initiative
of Setting Transformation
Blueprint (STB). The
project has been
placed among the top 5
selected projects of the
competition.

Figure 1: Md Tanvir Hossain describing the project details.

Marine creatures dying of eating time demanded product for Setting Transformation Blueprint
plastic garbage is a common news Bangladesh's textile and apparel (STB). The project has been placed
we see in print and electronic industry. among the top 5 selected projects
media. Many international of the competition.
This innovative development is
organizations are doing seminars,
the output of a project of the Md Tanvir Hossain, a textile
making dialogues to reduce plastic
Textile Talent Hunt 7th season engineering student from Dhaka
use in our daily life and reuse it.
competition organized by Textile University of Engineering &
An electrospun nanofibrous mat Today under the initiative of Technology (DUET) executed
has been successfully produced
from recycled polyethylene
terephthalate (PET) bottles by the
electrospinning technique. Thus,
the developed mats have great
potential to use as a face mask
in this situation. Besides, it will
also decrease the environmental
pollution caused by PET bottles.
Furthermore, it will open a new
window for the protective clothing
sector.
Owing to high filtration
performance, low toxicity,
breathability, reusability,
ecofriendly, and commercially
viable this face mask is a Figure 2: The raw material of nano mat; PET bottle chips.

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 47


Innovation

the innovation project as the


Transformation Leader (TL)
where Ayub Ali, Asst. Professor,
Department of Textile Eng., DUET
was Academic Supervisor; Md.
Rashedul Islam, ED (Knitting &
Dyeing), APS Group was Industry
Supervisor and Engr. Rafat Hasan
Chowdhury, Director, Huetech Yarn
Limited was Industry Expert.
Polyethylene terephthalate (PET)
is one of the most commonly
used synthetic polymers in the
world and is the most preferred
packaging material for drinks. Figure 4: Electrospinning machine, Model-TL-F6, Tong Li Tech, China.
However, according to Forbes
Magazine, less than 10 percent of
trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) and 20 400–4000 cm-1 range with 4 cm-1
PET bottle plastics are recycled in
ml dichloromethane (DCM). resolution. They found all results at
2017. This means that over 90% of
a satisfactory level.
PET bottles have been disposed The flask was kept aside for 24
of or burned, posing significant hours at ambient to ensure perfect The moisture management
environmental threats. maceration. Here, electrospinning property of the developed mat
set-up consisted of a high was evaluated by a moisture
voltage supply (20kV and 50 management tester (MMT) (M290,
KV), a syringe pump (TL-F6, SDL Atlas, UK) according to
Tong Li Tech, China), a rotary AATCC 195-2009.
drum collector (diameter-158mm,
The morphological orientation of
length-500mm, 500 rpm), a
nanofibers was noticed by SEM
heater (0.5 kW) and 5 needles (20
(SU 1510, Hitachi, Japan) at a
Gauge). All the components were
magnification of 3000 and 500
used as a single.
with a voltage of 15KV to get
Characterizations images with appropriate quality.
Besides, the porosity of the dry
The chemical characteristics of
nanofibrous mat was determined
recycled PET nano mat and nano
by weighing the samples and
mat mask were characterized
calculating their volume from the
using a Fourier transforms infrared
thickness and area measurements.
spectroscopy (FTIR) (IRPrestige21,
Shimadzu Corporation, Japan). Nano-fibrous mat to a facemask
The spectra of all the different
Finally, the team have produced
ratio samples were recorded in the
Figure 3: Trifluoroacetic acid (TFA), facemask using PET bottle-based
dichloromethane (DCM) and polymer solution.

Electrospinning process of
recycled PET nanofibrous mats
Nanofibers from the recycled PET
polymer have been studied in
the present study were produced
by solution electrospinning
technique (needle-based system).
Initially, the collected PET bottle
was washed perfectly with fresh
water and dried in an oven at
400˚C. Then the dried PET
bottle was finely converted to
chip form by a local machine
and 20 gm PET chips were
taken in a flask containing 80 ml
Figure 5: Electrospinning machine, Model-TL-F6, Tong Li Tech, China.

An Innovation Hub

48 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Fashion up
Gro
Power
e rsified rtification
is a div hich udits & Ce
g g lo m erate w Platform A
a
rtically
has ve parel
te g ra ted ap
in
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c tu Building, El
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s , w Knowledg
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concern etc.
id e ry
Embro wer Gro
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started d a te , Corporate U tt a ra , D h
a nd till ctor#03, 8950325
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conglo m.bd; m ija n .r
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Email: mija
Innovation

“ We have taken this innovation


project to make an impact
in the society by re-using
the PET bottles. We are
seeing a huge prospect of
this development if anyone
invest for the industry scale
production.
Ayub Ali
Asst. Professor
Dept. of TE, Dhaka University
of Engineering & Technology

Figure 6: Ayub Ali, Asst. Professor, Department of Textile Engineering, DUET was
Academic Supervisor of the project. transfer the water vapor through


the filter.
nano-fibrous mat. From a half liter
recycled PET bottle, it is possible to Commercial viability
make four facemask filters. Historically, nanofibers could not
I’m really feeling proud that
Why electro-spun masks are be manufactured in large enough
our teacher and student did
better? quantities and at low enough
this timely project which can
cost to be economically feasible
Many harmful particulate save the environment and
against existing alternatives such
pollutants have a diameter smaller help people in this time. Also,
as melt-blown. Recent technical
than 1 micrometer. Conventional I want to thank Textile Today
developments have ensured that
mechanical fibrous filters (such as for hunting the undergraduate
the output rate of electro spun
melt-blown filters) eliminate high- talents and giving them such
nano-fibre is similar to that of the
quality micrometer-sized particles. opportunities.”
traditional melt blowing process.
Electro-spun nano filter, however,
is considered best for particles in Dr. Shahjalal Khandaker The developed masks’ raw material
the submicron range as they give Head of Textile Engineering cost is very negligible. Excluding
the enhanced quality of filtration. Department, Dhaka University machinery cost, lab-scale
This is due to their high area of the of Engineering & Technology production cost is approximately
surface and the small diameter of 10-12 Tk per mask but in bulk scale
the pore. it will be approximately 5-6 Tk.
has been observed that the ES NF
Breathability filters' WVTR was superior. Ayub Ali, Asst. Professor,
Department of Textile Engineering,
Breathing comfort is generally Here, ES NF filters have a finer
Dhaka University of Engineering &
correlated with a pressure drop. structure and morphology and
Technology (DUET) said that we
Another significant aspect to a more uniform pore diameter.
have taken this innovation project
remember is the transportation This makes it possible to more
to make an impact in the society
of moisture, in a recent study, it consistently and effectively
by re-using the PET bottles. We
are seeing a huge prospect of this
development if anyone invest for
the industry scale production.
Dr. Shahjalal Khandaker, Head of
Textile Engineering Department,
Dhaka University of Engineering
& Technology (DUET) said, “I’m
really feeling proud that our
teacher and student did this
timely project which can save the
environment and help peoples
in this time. Also, I want to thank
Textile Today for hunting the
undergraduate talents and giving
Figure 7: Dr. Shahjalal Khandaker, Head of Textile Engineering Department, Dhaka
University of Engineering & Technology (DUET).
them such opportunities.”

An Innovation Hub

50 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Figure: Abdullah Hil Rakib receiving the LEED Platinum certification from Mahendra Jayalatah.

4A Yarn Dyeing Ltd


monumentalizes LEED
Platinum achievement
83/110 Staff Correspondent
LEED V4 BD+C
4A Yarn Dyeing Ltd of Team – Dhaka facility’ was established in
Group achieves ‘LEED Platinum’ Bangladesh.
1/1 rated green factory certification
In order to demonstrate its
Integrative process with 83 scores by the U.S. Green
responsibility to protect the
Building Council (USGBC) at Team
environment and reduce operating
14/16 Group Uttara head office in Dhaka.
costs, 4A Yarn Dyeing Ltd has
Location & transport
Mahendra Jayalatah LEED opted for the LEED (Leadership in

10/10 Consultant from Sri Lanka


handed over the LEED Platinum
Energy & Environmental Design)
Platinum certification for the
Sustainable sites
certification award to Abdullah Hil renovated facility by the USGBC.

9/11 Rakib, Managing Director, TEAM


Group.
Abdullah Hil Rakib said, “I am
Water efficiency very thankful to USGBC-GBCI,
The 4A Yarn Dyeing is a pioneer EnergySolve International and
29/33 within the apparel sector of my team for this remarkable
Energy & atmosphere Bangladesh. The group ensures achievement.”
to strengthen its values by
“Green is part of sustainability,
3/13 performing its social responsibility
especially for our upcoming
Material & resources towards the environment by
generation’s livelihood.”
incorporating sustainable
7/16 practices. “We have a plan to make my
Indoor environment all-sister concern factories LEED-
It is backed by the TEAM
certified by 2025. Bangladesh is
6/16 Group with several facilities
in Bangladesh. Under a new
now moving ahead and more than
Innovation 500 factories are waiting for green
sustainable expansion program,
certification,” added Abdullah Hil
4/4 a new state-of-the-art “GREEN”
factory, ‘4A Yarn Dyeing Ltd
Rakib.
Regional priority

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 51


I n n ova t i o n Awa r d Industrial Best Practices


Gopalakrishnan, Managing is an important market for
Director, GBCI – SEA & ME USGBC-GBCI.”
We have a plan to make markets said, “Bangladesh is one
“Bangladesh has the highest
my all-sister concern of the biggest markets for us.”
number of green garment
factories LEED-certified
“Bangladesh has now the highest factories in the world.
by 2025. Bangladesh is
number of green factories in the Recently Bangladesh Garment
now moving ahead and
world. So Bangladeshi factories Manufacturers and Exporters
more than 500 factories
are now more compliant.” Association (BGMEA) has been
are waiting for green
honored with the 2021 USGBC
certification,” Gopalakrishnan thanked 4A yarn
Leadership Award,” Santanu
Dyeing and the entire team for
added.
this remarkable achievement.
Md. Abul Kalam Azad,
Santanu Dutta Gupta,
General Manager (Group-
Regional head USGBC-GBCI
Head of Engineering) of Team
(East India, Bangladesh and
Group showcased a keynote
Vietnam markets) said, “It is
presentation on their green
Abdullah Hil Rakib a very big achievement for
achieving including energy,
Director, BGMEA Bangladesh in 2022. Bangladesh
water, materials, innovation, etc.
MD, TEAM Group

ILO praises BD RMG manufacturers


for creating safe workplace
Tanzia Hossain

A delegation of BGMEA led by President Faruque Faruque Hassan also apprised the ILO Director-
Hassan met with Guy Ryder, Director-General of General about the initiatives and programs including
the International Labour Organization at the ILO ILO’s Better Work Program in the RMG Sector to
headquarters in Geneva on February 25. promote descent working conditions in the garment
factories.
BGMEA has partnered with the ILO on Social
Dialogue and Harmonious Industrial Relations (SDIR)
project in garment factories which aimed to promote
social dialogue and harmonious industrial relations in
the Bangladesh RMG sector.
The Government of Bangladesh has proactively taken
a number of steps including amending the labor law
and passage of the Labour Rules, making elected
Figure: The BGMEA President reaffirmed their commitment to Participation Committee and Safety Committee
maintaining a safe and sustainable working environment and mandatory in garment factories.
harmonious labor relations.
Furthermore, a workers’ welfare fund has been
BGMEA President Faruque Hassan gave an overview created for the export-oriented industries where
of the progress made by Bangladesh’s RMG industry the apparel industry alone contributed more than 12
in compliance with ILO conventions ratified by million dollars this year and which increases in line
Bangladesh. with the growth of RMG exports, Faruque Hassan
informed.
He said unprecedented safety initiatives coupled
with massive training of workers jointly taken by ILO Director-General Guy Ryder praised the progress
the Government, brands, ILO, and development made by Bangladesh in making the workplace safer
partners have led to a tangible transformation in the and improving working conditions in the apparel
Bangladesh garment industry, making it a role model industry.
for others to emulate. The delegation comprised Vice President Miran
Moreover, the industry is fully committed to carrying on Ali and Directors Asif Ashraf, Tanvir Ahmed, and
this momentum to forge a safer industry that reflects Abdullah Hil Rakib. Shengjie Li, Senior Adviser, Office
the label ‘Made in Bangladesh’ with pride, he said. of Director-General, was also present at the meeting.

An Innovation Hub

52 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


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I n n ova t i o n Awa r d

Denim Processing Plant


Ltd - DPPL attains LEED
Gold Certification
Sayed Abdullah

Figure: Ananta Ahmed (Left) handing over the certificate to Zahangir Alam (2nd from right), Ayesha Akter (3rd from left) and Drimit
Alam Heeya (2nd from left) of DPPL.


Denim Processing Plant Ltd. Ayesha Akter, Managing Director
(DPPL) situated in Belashahor, and Drimit Alam Heeya, Director of
Comilla, Bangladesh – received Denim Processing Plant Ltd.
LEED NC v3 GOLD Certificate with
70 LEED points. “We would like to Ayesha Akter said, “We choose
thank Md. Zahangir to become GREEN as we want
The leader in Green Building Alam and DPPL’s to keep the earth livable for
Consultancy services in entire project team our future generation. It is our
Bangladesh (Consulting 225+ for the commitment responsibility. Becoming a LEED-
Projects), 360° Total Solution Ltd. to GREEN and certified factory will greatly aid us
(360 TSL) is the proud Green continual support by significantly reducing water and
Building Consultant for the project. to us.” energy consumption. On top of it,
In a grand event, 360 TSL handed this will be a positive branding for
over the Gold Certification to Denim Processing Plant Ltd.”
DPPL at its office in Dhaka.
Md. Zahangir Alam said, “When
On 5 March, Ananta Ahmed, I started this project I aspired to
USGBC Faculty, LEED AP BD+C, build an exemplary GREEN apparel
ID+C, EB O+M, HOMES, ND, factory. In the process, I met with
Principal LEED Consultant & Ananta Ahmed Ananta Ahmed – as he is one of
Managing Director of 360° TSL Managing Director the top global USGBC expert
handed over the Gold Certification 360° TSL Faculty. Ananta thoroughly guided
to Md. Zahangir Alam, CEO; me on the project. I am thankful

An Innovation Hub

54 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


I n n ova t i o n Awa r d
Total Solution Limited
Your Trusted GREEN Partner
to him that with his maestro schedule and its preference on
guideline, we achieved the LEED buyer's desire. DPPL employs
Gold Certification.” 3000 people and has an annual
turnover of $15 million.
Zahangir Alam added, “Denim
manufacturing produces a huge Green initiatives by DPPL
amount discharge as waste. For
this Denim Processing Plant Ltd. • 50% open spaces
has a world-class water treatment
• Efficient building envelop
plant (WTP) and effluent
treatment plant (ETP). Even the • Efficient lighting design and
discharged water is recycled back system
for reuse.”

Drimit Alam Heeya said, “I feel


• Good use of daylights (85%) Green Building
proud to be a part of DPPL’s • Transportation management do not cost you,
sustainable initiative. This is really
fascinating that we are producing • Energy monitoring system but is the best
sustainable fashion for the world.”
• Energy savings (40%) investment you
Ananta Ahmed said, “We would
• Low flow water fixtures can make
like to thank Md. Zahangir Alam
and DPPL’s entire project team for • Potable water savings (54%)
the commitment to GREEN and
continual support to us.” • Construction waste reduction
(95% )
Ananta Ahmed, “I always
say acquiring Green Building • Indoor fresh air (30%) +
Certification does not cost you ASHRAE Ananta Ahmed
anything. Rather it reduces cost. Int’l. Green Building Expert, USGBC Faculty
And 360° TSL from its 225+ Green • Low VOC paint LEED AP BD+C, LEED AP EB O+M, LEED AP ID+C,
LEED AP HOMES & LEED AP ND
Building Projects can show that Principal LEED Consultant and
• Waste and recycle system
becoming green reduces cost.” MD, 360 Total Solution Limited

• Bicycle parking and change


Denim Processing Plant Ltd. has
rooms
been set up by a group of highly
educated, well-experienced • Project complied with
entrepreneurs to run a garment

225+
applicable world standards
factory who have an excellent
track record of industrial • Adaptations of green operation
management, international & maintenance plan
marketing as well as a local
business. 360° TSL is the pioneer
and leading Green Building Project Running
Since day one of its founding, Consultancy Company in
DPPL, has progressively, Bangladesh, currently consulting in 85+ Companies
consistently developed into 85+ Companies to implement
one of the most competent and 225+ Green Building Projects.
professionally well-equipped
organizations in the RMG sector 360° TSL also conducts different
training and workshops on 

in Bangladesh. It is managed by
highly qualified and experienced Green Building benefits and
personnel. Skilled workers are return and also for building
deployed for its manufacturing green professionals to drive the  
units. sector towards sustainability. The
company is also a SILVER member
The company's success is because of the USGBC. The Art of Solutions
it maintains the standard of quality Total Solution Limited
Your Trusted GREEN Partner
SILVER

H # 3/1 (1st Floor), Road # 8


Dhanmondi, Dhaka 1205
Mob/WA: + 88 01747910939
E-mail: ananta2001@yahoo.com
Exporters' Profiles

Bangladesh's 10 giant
apparel exporters in 2021
Sayed Abdullah

Bangladesh readymade garment from the sole initiative of Late companies in Bangladesh –
(RMG) industry has spectacularly Engr. Nurul Haque Sikder, the Mondol Group – exported $199.6
bounced back from the COVID-19 former and founder Chairman and million apparel in 2021.
scarce and 2021 has been Managing Director of the Group.
phenomenal year for the country. For the 30 years, Mondol Group
In 2021, Bangladesh apparel export Since 2001, Nafis Sikder is holding – under the profound guidance
earnings reached $35.811 billion the position of Managing Director of Haji Abdul Majid Mondol, has
(Source: BGMEA). of the group and the group runs very gained an immense success and
smoothly under his dynamic leadership. has earned goodwill with 25
In this article, Textile Today will Over a period of last seventeen years, years of experience in garment
show the top 10 apparel exporters the company’s business growth is very industries.
in 2021. high and significant.
Mondol’s garment products are
Top 10 apparel exporters DBL Group: One of Bangladesh’s made using top quality yarn that
amount ($ million) in 2021. largest and most reputed vertically is procured from class one sources
Source: BGMEA integrated knitted apparels across world.
manufacturers and exporters
Ha-Meem Group $582.7 Asian Group: Asian Group
exported $457.4 million worth
Palmal Group $499 apparel in 2021. garment export rose to $185.8
DBL Group $457.4 million in 2021. Asian Group is
Square Fashions Ltd.: The proud to be one of the leading
Square Fashions Ltd. $312.8
Company earned $312.8 million garments manufacturers of
Al Muslim Group $205.6 in 2021. Square Fashions Ltd. Bangladesh. It has 30000+
Mondol Group $199.6 started its journey in 2001 employees.
Asian Group $185.8 with the combination of
modern technology and skilled AKH Group: AKH Group exported
AKH Group $165.5
professionals which helped it to $165.5 million apparel in 2021. AKH
Natural Group $161.5 is a one-stop source for overseas
achieve the position to cater for
Bitopi Group $160.3 world’s top notch customers in a buyers to buy their high quality
short span of time. knit and woven garments from
Ha-Meem Group: It exported Bangladesh.
$582.7 million in 2021. Since its Al Muslim Group: Al Muslim’s RMG
inception in 1984, Ha-Meem Group export earnings rose to $205.6 Started in 1997, its export continues
under the leadership of A. K. Azad million in 2021. Al-Muslim Group, a to grow vertically and horizontally.
and Md. Delwar Hossain became Bangladeshi apparel manufacturer,
Natural Group: Natural Group
a leading RMG manufacturer in is a driving provider of readymade
exported apparel worth $161.5
Bangladesh and in the world – garments and denim products in
million in 2021. Natural Group is
working with some of the biggest the world.
the most modern and state-of-art
fashion brands of the world.
The Company creates the most woven and sweater manufacturer
Currently Ha-Meem Group trendy and fashionable RMG and in Bangladesh. Natural started its
employs around 50,000 workers denim products and possesses journey in the year 2000.
and the company has 26 garment the most complete and updated
Bitopi Group (Tarasima Apparels
factories consisting of 300 production manufacturing system and
Ltd): Tarasima Apparels Ltd. of
lines and 7 washing plants to produce machineries in Bangladesh.
Bitopi Group exported $160.3
7 million pcs/month.
Al Muslim produces all type of million in 2021. Established in
Palmal Group: In 2021, Palmal woven top and bottom items for 2005, Tarasima Apparels Ltd
Group exported $499 million men, women and kids. specializes in Denim and Non
worth apparel. Palmal Group Denim bottoms while it also has
of Industries, a leading RMG Mondol Group: One of the leading the latest wet processing and dry
manufacturers, emerged in 1984 textile and apparel manufacturing processing capabilities.

An Innovation Hub

56 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Figure 1: Epyllion Group clinched the title of the 6th edition
BGMEA Cup football tournament-2021 beating Bando
Design Limited by 3-1 goals (Tiebreakers) in the final match.
INNOVATION:
IT’S IN
Epyllion: Champion of
OUR DNA
6th BGMEA cup 2021
swisstextilemachinery.ch
Sayed Abdullah

Epyllion Group clinched the title of the 6th edition


BGMEA Cup football tournament-2021 beating
Bando Design Limited by 3-1 goals (Tie-breakers) in the
final match at Bangladesh Army Stadium on 4 March.
Md. Zahid Ahsan Russel, MP, Minister of State, the
Ministry of Youth and Sports – also the Chief Guest –
handed over the champion and runner-up trophies.
Atiqul Islam, Mayor of Dhaka North City Corporation
was present as a special guest. Faruque Hassan,
President, BGMEA, former BGMEA Presidents Abdus
Salam Murshedy MP, and Md. Siddiqur Rahman,
incumbent Senior Vice President SM Mannan (Kochi),
Vice President Shahidullah Azim, Vice President
(Finance) Khandoker Rafiqul Islam, Vice President
Md. Nasir Uddin, Directors of BGMEA and Chairman of
BUFT Trustees Board Muzaffar U. Siddique, Salauddin
Chowdhury, Chairman, Stylish Garments Ltd. and other
dignitaries graced the occasion.
Monsur, Epyllion Group was awarded man of the final
while Rintu, Epyllion Group was awarded the most
valuable player of the tournament. Imranur Rahman,
MD, Layla Group was awarded a Special Appreciation
for his invaluable contribution to the tournament.
The final at the Army Stadium which hosted around
eight thousand football-loving fans witnessed and
was Live on T-Sports, saw Epyllion and Bando finish
the regulation time 1-1.
Bando by Laila Group, three-time champions, took
the field with a unique record under their belt –
they have reached final in all six editions of the
tournament.
The BGMEA Cup was participated by 16 teams this
year – Bando Design, Team Group, Tusuka Group,
Babylon Group, Laila Group, Mosharaf Apparel
Ltd, Apparel Village Ltd, Fakir Fashion Ltd, Comfit
Composite, Sterling Group, Snowtex Outerwear Ltd,
Apparel Industry, Epyllion Group, Torque Fashion,
Setara Group and Sayem Group. Vevey, Switzerland, 1819: François-Louis Cailler invents
The Tournament was powered by Sheltech Ceramics the now-familiar tablet format for chocolate. His simple
while among other sponsors are Aba Group, Urmi idea makes chocolate available and affordable worldwide.
Group, Epic Group, Twelve Clothing, Four H Group, Today, one billion Swiss-made chocolate bars are produced
BUFT, Nipa Group, Antrix Solutions. Other Partners each year.
Being T-Sports (Broadcast), Race Online (Internet),
Cbl Munchy (Gift Partner), Movement Solutions
(Fitness Partner), and Uttara Sector 4 Kollan Somity
(Venue Partner).

Invented in Switzerland.
Where the same innovative spirit drives textile progress today.
Te c h n o l o g y To d a y

Aerosol Technology
Firoz Ahmed

particles 25 microns or larger. Once smaller than 25


microns, the particles visually “read” as a cloud.
All the units are UL Listed to UL 2775 Standard for
Fixed Condensed Aerosol Extinguishing System
Units. All products are also certified by ISO 15779
Condensed aerosol fire extinguishing systems ‐
Requirements and test methods for components
and system design, installation and maintenance ‐
General Requirements
A fire needs three elements: oxygen, heat, and fuel.
With the introduction of Halon
Stat-X is a condensed aerosol extinguishing medium
consisting of finely divided solid particles, generally 1301, a fourth element, shown in green, was added. It
less than 10 microns in diameter, and gaseous is the “chain reaction” of the
matter, generated by a combustion process of a solid combustion process. Once you lose any one of these
aerosol‐forming compound. Stat‐X is not a clean four elements, the fire goes out.
agent as defined in the NFPA 2001 standard. NFPA
Aerosols chemically interfere with fire propagation
recognized aerosol fire suppression systems with a
radicals such as OH (hydroxyl
special standard for this technology by publishing
the first NFPA 2010 edition in 2006, 2010, 2015, and radical), H (hydrogen radical), and O (oxygen
the current edition of NFPA 2010 is 2020. radicals or ions). The extinguishing agent in Stat‐X is
a potassium‐based aerosol with fine particulates, that
is claimed to disrupt reactions with oxygen and fuel
in the fire tetrahedron. Stat‐X disrupts the fire at the
molecular level.

The Stat‐X aerosol is 30% nitrogen, and 70%


potassium particulate less than 2 microns in size.
When it comes to the comparison of particle size of
extinguishing medium in different fire suppression
systems, aerosol system particulates are much Stat‐X bonds with the free radicals (OH, H, & O) in
smaller in size, as seen on the picture. the flame and reduces the chemical reaction for
combustion. Potassium radicals are the main active
The average size of Stat‐X aerosol particles is in the
component of the Stat‐X aerosol. These potassium
range of 1‐2 microns. The human eye can recognize
radicals react with the radicals of the flame.
The units are always mounted in a bracket to
secure them when they discharge as shown in the
photo. At the time of discharge, there is a thrust,
therefore, brackets are required. Stat‐X suppresses
fire chemically by inhibition of chemical reaction of
combustion, and to some degree by heat absorption.
Once activated, the match initiates the burn. As the
pellet compound burns, it produces the aerosol.
The aerosol then passes thru the oxidation block

An Innovation Hub

58 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Te c h n o l o g y To d a y

and the cooling block before it exits the ports on APPLICATIONS:


the bottom of the generator. The typical aerosol
Stat‐X is protecting many wind turbines in Canada,
generator design has an exit temperature that can
China, Europe, and Chile. Many of the wind turbines
reach greater than 100 degrees Celsius at exit ports.
manufactured in China are protected by Stat‐X, both
The aerosol temperature will drop below 75 degrees
the transformer room, cabinets, and nacelle.
Celsius at the C‐zone limit. The peak temperature is
reached toward the end of discharge for one to two
seconds as cooling capacity is reached.

These images show electrical cabinets in the base


of the wind turbine down tower on ground level.
They are protected by a 250T and the other a 60T.
The nacelle is also protected by Stat‐X; however,
How do Stat‐X units compare to other technologies
installations photos are unavailable.
such as FM‐200, Sapphire, Novec 1230, FE‐25, and
Halon 1301? Stat‐X® fire suppression is the system of choice for
this 2019 wind turbine installation in Chile. These
The chart shows the applications rate in grams,
fire suppression systems are protecting the nacelle
concentrated to cubic meters of protected space.
with a total flooding configuration and a thermally
This information can be found in all design manuals.
activated generator is protecting this electrical
For example, with FM‐200 you would use 500 grams
cabinet at the base of the wind turbines. This large
of agents for this application of a class B hazard.
electrical power generation and transmitter company
The application rate for Stat‐X is less than all shown.
is operating the power generation for the region of
Stat‐X is proven to be more effective, so our units
Aysen, which include a number of islands as Chiloe,
can be physically smaller.
by a combination of wind hydro and thermoelectric
generation. The VESTAS V47 power generation
turbines plus the Enercon wind turbines belonging
to them and are part of multiple other facilities
including battery rooms and storage of inflammables
included in an ambitious conversion plan.

Energy storage systems (ESS) and Battery energy


storage systems BESS) are newer application for
us and we are gaining market share as Stat‐X is
tested and proven effective with our DNV test
results. Battery storage applications can be in‐
building, containerized, or in‐cabinet. This is a photo
Space is at a premium in many applications. Stat‐X is
from Honda Cars in India. You can see the many
more compact and requires no piping or nozzles. It is
generators around the perimeter of the room to
modular and simple to install, which means it is more
protect this enclosure.
economical!

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 59


Pigments & Fluorescent
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**Full Series Available

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A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 15, Issue 03 l Pages 61 to 78

Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion


March 2022

Unveiling industry best practices


Apparel accessories & fashion
March 2022
Seasonless Ukraine-Russia Top ten apparel
clothing: a reset in war: Fashion sourcing
the sustainability brands countries to
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AT E d i t o r i a l

So, it is time producers must make clothes


with the vision that consumers can wear them
for longer with satisfaction. Not the trendy
ones we used to wear once or sometimes not
and discard because they are cheap. This
habit of ours puts tremendous pressure on the
mother earth and on the factory workers who
make them.

Seasonless Classic/timeless, utility-driven, and value


for money will be the three key elements
to influence our buying behavior once the

clothing: a
pandemic is over or we get used to it. Season-
neutral clothing that we can wear around the
year and have longevity will be the trend in the

reset in the
post-pandemic retail world. If we look back to
events like the Second World War and 2008
financial crisis, we will find how fabric rationing
paved the way for Dior’s New Look in 1947 or

sustainability
how Gucci opted for refashioning to offset the
woe of declining sales after 2010.
Seasonless clothing doesn't necessarily mean
just buy less, though. Adopting strategy

practice
for seasonless fashion means developing a
dynamic and rotating product line that serves
a brand’s goals as well as consumers’ demand.
The concept of seasonless fashion may sound
straightforward, but it is not. Firstly, we should
Sabbir Rahman Khan not mix it up with ‘fast fashion.’
Also, it doesn’t support the idea that brands
In this changing world, we all need a ‘wardrobe reset’, should be releasing new collections every
and here comes the concept of seasonless clothing. It week or month. In principle, seasonless
means something an individual could wear whenever s/ merchandising strategy targets to transform
he wants to. And this concept has come to prominence the retail mindset from one where consumers
during the time of pandemic. In the middle of March 2020, take it for granted that certain items should be
the pandemic entailed supply chain disruptions, revenue bought at certain times of the year.
fall, and surplus inventory. Inventories turned idle as there
As we commonly experience when a season-
are no stores or even consumers wanted to buy or invest
specific clothing line is launched, just in a few
clothing items. Consequently, several smaller fashion labels
weeks those products become outdated, are on
had to shut stores. Thinking about all these factors and also
sale and tend to be replaced by the stores. This
thinking about people are not anymore in a position to buy
never-ending season-cycle influence consumers
seasonal dresses as before.
to grab the next trend, buy and discard the
This pandemic taught people to be conscious about how last one purchased. This practice is simply not
much they should spend for clothing and how much they sustainable.
are planning to buy. This triggered the trend of minimalistic
To explain more, seasonality, in the apparel
living around continents. So, the ‘six months buy plan’
sector, is the core and very relevant. In some
of retail stores has lost its significance. Even renowned
regions, say for instance, like in north-east of
brands are promoting the tagline – “Let’s Stop Pretending
the USA, the weather can shift from scorching
We Need New Clothes Every Season’ as a move towards
heat to extreme cold in just a matter of days.
seasonless clothing culture.

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 63


Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion

An initiative of Textile Today


63-65 AT Editorial 70 Association’s
Activities
The Team

Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO

Amzad Hossain Monir


Head of Business Development BGMEA urges Ransje Teerink to
promote Bangladesh in EU
Seasonless clothing: a reset in
the sustainability practice

72-73 Fashion World


Rahbar Hossain
Shohel Ahmed 65 Innovation
Ibrahim Khalil award
Business Development Team Group gets Best
Innovation award on Fashion &
Apparel

SN Abdullah
Nurunnahar Tania 66 Advertorial Ukraine-Russia war: Fashion
Research & Development brands responding to it

74-76 Global Apparel


Sanjoy Kumar Saha Sourcing
Engagement & Communication

Yeasin Mia
R|Elan™ GreenGold –
Graphic Design
enabling eco-conscious
fashion – now available in
PTY &FDY
Top ten apparel sourcing
Zakir Hossain
countries to watch in 2022
Jr. Executive, Web & IT
68-70 Exclusive
Interview 77 Textile People

Ashraful Alam
Cinematographer

Md. Ariful Islam


Md. Masudur Rahman Neela Hosna Ara, Crony Group
Abir Basak Chairman, gets selected as a
Editorial Contributions Board of Directors of BGMEA
National chemical guidance
provides orientation through
Inquiry: the landscape of international
M. +88 01775 99748 guidelines”
E. monir@textiletoday.com.bd
W. www.textiletoday.com.bd
Innovation award AT E d i t o r i a l

This means going from wearing sports shorts one end up in landfills harming the environment.
day to cover you with heavy clothes to stay warm as
So, it is time producers must make clothes with the
much as possible. But from the business model lens
vision that consumers can wear them for longer with
that's not what ‘seasons’ are about.
satisfaction. Not the trendy ones we used to wear
For businesses, seasonality is the tool to sell more once or sometimes not and discard because they are
products throughout the calendar in a year. if we can cheap. This habit of ours puts tremendous pressure
refer to the last few decades, we will see how we've on the mother earth and on the factory workers who
gone from having five or more seasons from having make them.
only two seasons. Interestingly, a few brands (not
It is of no doubt that clothing simplifying our daily
referring to any names) with their quick designing,
life and reducing stress in a climate changing world
speedy inventory and dynamic price points has gone
is a big plus. The prime climate benefit of it is that
up to 52 seasons! This means a new line of clothing
seasonless clothing line in our wardrobe can support
gets designed and produced every single week
our world to offset the adverse impact of climate
around the year.
change by curtailing overconsumption.
To fit in the global goal for sustainability, adopting
Consciously or unconsciously, we all suffer from
seasonless clothing principle turns as the demand
some form of climate anxiety in different ways. It
of time. A few of the key benefits of adopting
could be the fear that our life will be in danger if
seasonless clothing are, rise of sustainable garments,
any climate-related impact or disaster occurred due
less pressure on factories for overproducing,
to our irresponsible behavior towards the planet.
reduction of panic buying or impulse purchase and
Thus, it is imperative to change our mindset as
less waste.
manufacturers as well as consumers if we really want
Now that we’ve been adapting to the pandemic, it to change things truly.
will give us the platform to fix our overconsumption
habit. Our lust for excess clothes in the wardrobe will Author:
have to be reassessed. Because it is our wastefulness
that is contrary to sustainability. Ideally, a fewer
clothing is good enough for us. Sabbir Rahman Khan
The writer is a Knowledge
Hence, what will appear integral is how much
Management, Communications and
producers need to manufacture in line with the real Advocacy Professional, working
need of consumers. Because it is not possible that for an international development
producers’ massive inventories can always end up in organisation.

discounts and sales. As the final fate, excess items The views expressed are personal.

Team Group gets Best Innovation


award on Fashion & Apparel
Yeasin Miah

Leading Bangladeshi readymade garment (RMG)


exporter and sourcing company Team Group’s Nidle
Smart Factory Solution has been awarded ‘Best Innovation
– Fashion & Apparel’ by Bangladesh Brand Forum.
Director of BGMEA and Managing Director of Team
Group Abdullah Hil Rakib and his team received the
‘Best Innovation’ award.
Figure: Abdullah Hil Rakib and his team receiving the ‘Best
Team Group is one of the largest RMG conglomerates Innovation’ award.

in Bangladesh. The leading RMG Group of the as Director for two terms in 2013-15 and 2015-2017,
country–comprised of 6 apparel and backward and he is also an elected Director of the current
linkage factories– started its venture in 2009 and BGMEA Board. Recently Rakib has been awarded
within a short period it has curved out its niche in the Dhaka University Marketing Alumni Association
industry. Having said that, Team Group is also and a (MAA) Award for his outstanding contribution to the
forerunner in the green revolution having one LEED country’s economy.
Platinum and Gold-certified factory.
The Business Innovation Summit event was graced
Abdullah Hil Rakib also served Bangladesh Garment by Salman Fazlur Rahman, advisor to the Prime Minister
Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and Zunaid Ahmed Palak MP, ICT State Minister.

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 65


Advertorial

R|Elan™ GreenGold – enabling eco-conscious


fashion – now available in PTY & FDY
R|Elan™ Story

There has been a growing demand for sustainable In order to boost green fashion, Reliance Industries
raw materials like recycled polyester filament Limited, India has been recycling used plastic bottles
yarns across varied product range for use in major to provide eco-sensitive raw materials to global
apparel categories. Buoyed by burgeoning demand fashion brands and retailers. Reliance Industries
Reliance Industries Limited (RIL) has introduced Limited, recycles more than 2 billion post-consumer
R|Elan™ GreenGold in the filament form, made from PET bottles annually across different manufacturing
recycling 100% post-consumer used PET bottles. sites.
This is suitable for making garments across a varied
R|Elan™ range of fabrics offer multiple possibilities
range of categories. It is available in Draw Texturized
with inherent technologies that bring about special
Yarn (DTY) for categories like activewear, denims,
and lasting benefits in the garment for the consumer.
formalwear etc. and in Fully Drawn Yarn (FDY) to
R|Elan™ GreenGold fabric which is made from 100%
make garments across categories like Women’s
post-consumer used PET bottles is a core part of
Dresses and Tops.
the R|Elan™ product portfolio and it helps provide
Enhanced whiteness index sustainable solutions to the fashion industry. This can
be used in manufacturing casual wear, denims, shirts,
When post-consumer waste PET bottles are
bottom weight, active wear, and womenswear.
converted into recycled fibres the resultant product
may have low whiteness with yellowish tone. This Eco-friendly fabrics that enable enhanced
leads to a limitation for brands to make high quality performance
fabrics in some specific shades including light, pastel
Today, there is a growing demand from consumers
and brilliant shades.
for apparel with value added benefits. Quality alone
Apart from is not a factor for purchasing a product, consumers
being made from are looking for additional functionality that enables
assured 100% enhanced performance. Consumers today are also
post-consumer well aware of factors that affect the environment
used PET and are conscious about how they can contribute
bottles for raw towards its betterment by using eco-friendly products.
material, R|Elan™
R|Elan™ fabrics offer a world of possibilities with
GreenGold
technologies that bring lasting benefits to wearer
also offers
at the same time are eco-friendly. Here, we have
an enhanced
developed a wide range of fabrics from green fibre
whiteness in its
variants, combining sustainability with various
recycled portfolio.
functional benefits like moisture management in the
It gives a superior
form of R|Elan™ Kooltex, thermal insulation in the
whiteness index
form of R|Elan™ AirTherm and all weather comfort
that enables it
in the form of R|Elan™ AllClima. This solution can be
to be ideal for
ideal offering from fashion brands to the consumers
making fabric
that are looking for eco-friendly garments which also
in light and
Figure: Reliance Industries Limited provides enhanced comfort.
(RIL) has introduced R|Elan™ pastel shades
GreenGold in the filament form, made available across Now, your garments can be eco-friendly, functional
from recycling 100% post-consumer as well as fashionable!!
used PET bottles. a wide range of
applications. This way, R|Elan™ GreenGold fabric empowers
Growing awareness and demand for Green Fashion high quality eco-friendly fashion to the consumers
as a next-generation fabric that is in line with the
The fashion and textile industry in India is one of
latest fashion trends at the same time fulfilling their
the key contributors to the economic growth, as
sustainable lifestyle needs.
well as a leading employment generator. However,
the industry has its inherent detrimental effect on Visit us at https://www.r-elan.com/ to know more
environment and natural resources. It has become about R|Elan™ and also visit https://relan-sourcing.
imperative for the entire value chain to deal with virtulab.online/ to explore the world of innovative
eco-pollution. fabrics from R|Elan™.

An Innovation Hub

66 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Exclusive Interview


National chemical
guidance provides
orientation through
the landscape
of international
guidelines”
Dr. Angelika Fleddermann
Country Director, Deutsche
Gesellschaft für Internationale
Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) Bangladesh

Bangladesh faces environmental


and social challenges. The Deutsche
Gesellschaft für Internationale
Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH
has been helping Bangladeshi
government to overcome these
challenges through different projects
commissioned by the German
Federal Ministry for Economic
Cooperation and Development
(BMZ), the European Union and other
international partners. GIZ supports
local efforts to establish reliable and
efficient energy supplies. A further
goal of the partnership between
the two countries is to bring about
improvements in the legal system.
Concomitantly, to improve working
conditions and social standards in
factories, GIZ works with numerous
partners in the textiles, garment
and leather sectors. These include
companies, unions and official bodies.
GIZ also supports the efforts of
factories and tanneries to improve
their environmental standards in the

An Innovation Hub

68 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Exclusive Interview

areas of waste and wastewater Dr. Angelika Fleddermann: Textile Today: According to the
management and energy Although the textile and garment industry people, all the factories
consumption. Recently GIZ--on behalf (T&G) industry has grown to such do not have the same facility
of the govt. of Germany and the an extent in Bangladesh that it to comply with the National
Ministry of Commerce, Bangladesh— is now second largest supplier Chemical Guidelines. What will
has unveiled the draft of ‘National of apparels globally, no National you remark on the issue?
Chemical Guideline for Textile and Chemical Management Guidelines Dr. Angelika Fleddermann: Those
Garment Industry in Bangladesh to (NCMG) are developed for this factories that do not have the
create a uniform standard. industry in Bangladesh. In the facilities will need to find a solution
absence of such a guideline, in the process to finding solutions.
Textile Today has met GIZ Country
factories face lots of problems The Bangladeshi government, like
Director for Bangladesh Dr.
to properly manage chemicals the Ministry of Commerce or the
Angelika Fleddermann to know
in their factories. To further Department of Environment, as
more about their activities in
enhance competitiveness of the well as private sector associations,
Bangladesh including chemical
T&G industry of Bangladesh in like BGMEA, BKMEA or LFMEAB,
guidelines’ details, renewable
the global market, the Ministry or some technical cooperation
energy usages aspects etc.
of Commerce (MoC) decided agencies, like GIZ, can create
Textile Today: As the Country to develop the NCMG for the spaces to discuss shared
Director of GIZ in Bangladesh, T&G industry of Bangladesh responsibilities or other forms
what is your observation regarding and requested the GIZ to to address this. In general, the
sustainability initiatives taken by support in developing it. We approval of any kind of regulation,
Bangladesh’s entrepreneurs? obviously are glad to provide our including guidelines, should of
Dr. Angelika Fleddermann: support to MoC. This guideline course include an assessment of
Sustainability initiatives, provides guidance to local how to implement it.
understood as focusing on manufacturers for an appropriate
use of chemicals according to Moreover, the guidance points
greening businesses, are of course
international requirements and out a stepwise approach
not only a matter of conviction
standards. for the improvement of the
or ethical ambition, but have
environmentally performance
a commercial impact. In the improves clarity as more and of produces. This means, that
export-oriented RMG sector, the more stricter requirements from producers will find information on
Bangladesh industry has built the buyers’ side (brands, buyers, how to improve their production
some of the most modern factories customer) force the producers according to their individual
possible. The business community to more and stricter compliance needs and available resources.
is very well aware of this. Business with environmental standards. The guidance will be accompanied
associations like BGMEA, BKMEA Producers are often not sufficiently by capacity-building measures
and BTMA are taking steps to informed or capacitated to from GIZ, such as the e-REMC
support their member factories implement measures to improve (Resource Efficient Management
though training and advisory their compliance. of Chemicals) training, a
services. Most of the factories are
Provides assistance to understand comprehensive online self-learning
equipped with latest machinery
the landscape of international training course, free of cost.
and technologies to meet the
standards and what is needed for Textile Today: Renewable energy
demand of fashion trends. Now,
manufacturers to be compliant. and energy efficiency is a priority
Bangladesh is the home to
the world’s highest number of Textile Today: As brands enforce area of GIZ working in Bangladesh.
LEED certified Factories. These their own set of sustainable guidelines, How does GIZ work with
factories use energy-efficient and then how will the manufacturers stakeholders to boost renewable
environment-friendly technology implement these guidelines? Are the energy usages in the country?
and practices that save water and guidelines aligned with the existing Dr. Angelika Fleddermann:
energy and minimize pollution. chemical guidelines? GIZ is directly working with the
Textile Today: On behalf of the Dr. Angelika Fleddermann: private sector stakeholders of
govt. of Germany and the Ministry Yes, the guidance provides T&G industry to help them in
of Commerce, Bangladesh-- GIZ orientation through the landscape developing Renewable energy
recently has unveiled the draft of of international guidelines and and Energy efficient projects. We
‘National Chemical Guideline for refers to them; i.e. ZDHC (Zero have so far developed 68 solar
Textile and Garment Industry in Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals PV technology based projects at
Bangladesh. What was the drive Foundation), EU REACH, Oeko-Tex different factories of this industry
behind this significant initiative? and others. The guidance is NO with a cumulative capacity of
new standard. 65 MWp (megawatt peak). GIZ

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 69


Exclusive Interview Association’s Activities

energy projects, but also training and environmental standards in


stakeholder regarding different the leading industry will benefit
steps associated in developing the workers engaged there, but
a renewable energy project with also enhance awareness about
maximum efficiency in terms of decent workplaces in many sectors.
time and cost investment. Compliant producers will have
better chances to sell quality
While working closely with T&G
products, which produces revenues
factories, we are also helping the
that can consolidate employment
solar companies to develop their
opportunities. GIZ also supports
resources, and thus bridging the gap
educational efforts to enhance
between the technology provider
employability and strengthen an
and technology seeker by adding
educational ecosystem surrounding
Figure: Amzad Hossain Monir, Head value in both end of the value
of Business Development and Sayed the RMG industry.
Abdullah, Asst. Manager, Editorial, Textile
chain and bring them together for
Today with Dr. Angelika Fleddermann. successful project implementation. We understand the Ministry
of Commerce as the relevant
provides technical and financial Textile Today: We want to learn
institution to connect private
feasibility of such renewable more about GIZ's activities to
and public sector institution in
energy projects, also provides boost Bangladesh’s textile and
the trade related RMG sector.
consulting services (free of cost) apparel sector. Could you please
But through the Department
to build the knowledge capital mention some more actions GIZ
of Inspection of Factories
of the factory owners to take has taken or will take to elevate
and Establishments and the
informed decisions. Therefore, Bangladesh’s textile and apparel
Department of Environment
the factory owners can decide industry?
we also support Governmental
their investment volume more Dr. Angelika Fleddermann: authorities that enable Occupational
profoundly considering the GIZ implements Technical Health and Safety training,
projects potential in cost saving, Cooperation on behalf of the inspections, assessments, etc.
GHG emission reduction. German Government and agreed With the sector´s associations,
Through German Development upon between the Governments like BGMEA and BKMEA, we also
Cooperation training to the T&G of Bangladesh and Germany. In work on awareness raising and
industry stakeholders is provided, the textile and apparel industry, skills development in factories and
covering technical design & our support addresses the amongst management and workers.
financial analysis of renewable hypothesis that better social

BGMEA urges Ransje Teerink to promote Bangladesh in EU


Sayed Abdullah
Leaders of the Bangladesh Garment Vice President Miran Ali, Directors Asif development and transformation
Manufacturers and Exporters Ashraf, Tanvir Ahmed and Abdullah of the industry into a safe and
Association (BGMEA) have Hil Rakib met Rensje in Brussels on sustainable one.
requested senior official at the February 23 and made the call.
She was also requested to share
European Union, Rensje Teerink, to
Rensje Teerink, who served the positive stories about the RMG
promote Bangladesh in the EU.
as Ambassador and Head of industry she witnessed during her stay in
BGMEA President Faruque Hassan, Delegation of the European Union Dhaka with key personnel in the European
to Bangladesh, is now serving as Union and relevant stakeholders.
the Head of Division, Regional
In the meeting the BGMEA leaders also
Affairs, ASEM and Indo-Pacific,
mentioned the request for support of
European External Action Service.
the European Union in continuation of
Terming Rensje Teerink as a trade privileges for Bangladesh for 12
good friend and well-wisher of years after LDC graduation to facilitate
Bangladesh, BGMEA President smooth transition.
Faruque Hassan sought her
They expressed hope that Rensje
cooperation in changing the
Teerink would continue her
narrative of Bangladesh’s RMG
friendly support to promote the
industry in the European Union
interests of Bangladesh in the
Figure: BGMEA leaders with Rensje as she closely observed the
European Union.
Teerink.

An Innovation Hub

70 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


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Fa s h i o n Wo r l d

Figure: Some western fashion companies have decided to stop selling their products or pull back on operations in Russia.

Ukraine-Russia war: Fashion


brands responding to it
Textile Today Report

On February 24 Ukraine and Here is how different fashion the U.N. World Food Programme, a
Russia began a war that has brands are responding to the humanitarian organization.
instigated a humanitarian crisis Russian invasion of Ukraine:
Boohoo
and preoccupied world leaders
Acne Studios
with how to respond both short Has stopped all sales in Russia.
and long term. The western allies Donated €100,000 (about
Burberry
and NATO have been looking for $110,915) to UNICEF and to
the U.N. High Commissioner for Donating an undisclosed amount
different ways to support Ukraine
Refugees, or UNHCR. The brand has to the British Red Cross Ukraine Crisis
from afar. In a rapidly evolving
also stopped all deliveries to Russia. Appeal. The brand also announced it
response, some companies
would match any employee donations
have decided to stop selling Adidas
to charities supporting humanitarian
their products or pull back on
Suspended its partnership with efforts in Ukraine.
operations in Russia.
the Russian Football Union and is
Camera della Moda
Fashion brands like H&M, Nike, and donating €100,000, footwear, and
Puma have altered their operations apparel to organizations helping Donating contributions received
in Russia. On the other hand, children and refugees. at stage presentations and fashion
some companies like LVMH, Kering, shows to the UNHCR.
IKEA
and Burberry have offered aid to Canada Goose
Ukrainians. Also, some individuals The brand is closing its stores in
Russia, stopping production and Has suspended all sales and
in the fashion world have used their
halting all imports and exports to deliveries in Russia.
platforms to stand up for Ukraine.
Russia and Belarus. IKEA noted Chanel
However, another moral question
that these decisions have an
is arising observing these steps Closed its stores in Russia and
impact on 15,000 IKEA workers,
taken by brands and different halted all e-commerce in the area.
so the company has "secured the
countries’ leaders. When Palestine, The brand also donated €2 million
employment and income stability
Syria, Uyghur, Kashmir, Yemen, (about $2.18 million) to relief funds
for the immediate future" and will
Rakhine (Rohingya), Afghanistan, in support of Ukraine, but did not
provide support to workers and
Iraq etc. were attacked (still these disclose where.
their families in the region.
lands and their people are being
Ganni
destroyed), global leaders/brands ASOS
ignored those and did not take any Donating 100,000 DKK (about $14,700)
Has stopped all sales in Russia and
action against invaders. Why such to the Danish Refugee Council and has
Ukraine.
double standard are they showing halted on sales in Russia.
Balenciaga
against atrocities to humanity?— Gucci
the question is roaming around Wiped its Instagram channel and
Donating $500,000 to the UNHCR
different social media platforms. donated an undisclosed amount to

An Innovation Hub

72 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Fa s h i o n Wo r l d

through its long-standing global Mango remain open. Puma has offered
campaign Chime for Change. financial support and housing
Closed its stores in Ukraine and
options in western Ukraine to its
Hermès paused sales in Russia. The brand
380 employees in Ukraine and the
has also donated €100,000 to
Closed all its stores in Russia and surrounding area.
International Red Cross and Red
paused all commercial activities in
Crescent Movement. Richemont
the country.
Nanushka The brand includes Cartier and
Kering YOOX Net-a-Porter and has closed
Will not be making any deals stores in Russia and paused all
Made a donation to the UNHCR in
with Russian wholesale partners commercial business in the area.
an undisclosed amount.
moving forward, and has stopped
Louis Vuitton Skims
delivering to Russia.
Made a donation of €1 million Shared that it would be making a
Nike
(about $1.09 million) to UNICEF donation to World Central Kitchen.
Nike's website currently says
to provide aid for children and Talbots
that it cannot guarantee product
families in Ukraine.
delivery to Russia, and therefore Donating products to victims and
LVMH Group online and app purchases are refugees by shipping 8,000 items
temporarily unavailable in the through Give Back Box Charity, Inc.
Stated that “LVMH has today
decided to make a first emergency region. It advises shoppers to visit Under Armour
donation of €5 million to support their nearest Nike store.
Partnered with humanitarian
the International Committee of OTB Foundation groups to help provide what is
the Red Cross (ICRC) to help the needed to the displaced and
Providing support for families and
direct and indirect victims of this stopped all shipments to its sales
individuals who are fleeing Ukraine.
conflict.” The group is also providing channels in Russia.
aid to its 150 Ukrainian workers and Puma
Valentino
launching a fundraising campaign
Stopped deliveries to Russia,
in support of the ICRC. Donating €500,000 to the UNHCR.
though stores in the country
(The report was made based on different web data)

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Global Apparel Sourcing

Amid the worldwide growth sluggishness


among industries – the textile and apparel
manufacturing has been steeply rising –
creating a silver line for manufacturing
countries. Brushing aside the global supply
chain glitches the textile is one of the well-
established industries in the competitive
market place.

Top ten apparel sourcing


countries to watch in 2022
Sayed Abdullah

Textile Today evaluated various Both knitwear and woven sector as China and Mexico.
aspects of 2021 apparel export maintained over 40% year-over-
data’s available to depict the year growth. So the overall RMG On the other hand, Vietnam is
highly perspective apparel export performance had shown extremely reliant on imports of
sourcing countries in 2022. Here tremendous resilience in the raw materials such as cotton, fiber,
are the top ten countries: past few months. Despite all yarn, textiles, and garments for
the challenges caused by the clothing production as local supply
1. Bangladesh: The second largest pandemic, such turn around has not been sufficient in recent
apparel exporting country has had reflects the hard work and years.
a tremendous 2021. As per the resilience of the country’s apparel
Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) Heavy dependence on imports
entrepreneurs and workers, and
data, in July- January of FY2021- poses momentous risks to the
the confidence of the global
22, Bangladesh readymade clothing manufacturing industry.
brands on the country.
garment (RMG) industry exported Along with the burden to meet
$23.99 billion worth garments. 2. Vietnam: As per the data of the local demand, the government
Which is a massive 30.30% General Statistics Office, Vietnam has thus been stressing the
increase from the same period of apparel export earned $32.75 development of the domestic
the previous fiscal year. Among billion in 2021. The country’s raw material supply chain for
the total RMG export, knitwear apparel export has been hit by the textile, garment, leather, and
items export fetched $13.27 billion, the wide-spread COVID infection. footwear industries.
while woven items earned $10.71 Which dragged its performance of
3. Turkey: According to the
billion, registering 32.89% and RMG.
data from the Turkish Statistical
27.23% growth respectively. For
RMG and textile products were Institute and the country’s
the single month of January 2021,
among its major commodities Ministry of Trade, Turkey exported
the RMG export grew by 42.71%
based on export turnover in readymade garments (RMG)
and reached $4.08 billion which
2020. As Vietnam diminished its worth $13.36 billion, compared
is the highest ever single month
dependence on agriculture, the to $10.63 billion exports in the
export of this sector.
manufacturing sector has become corresponding period of 2020.
In fact for the first time in history a vital pillar in its economy.
While according to Mustafa
Bangladesh RMG industry has
One of the key critical benefits of Gültepe, Head of the Istanbul
crossed the milestone of $4 billion
the Vietnamese manufacturing Apparel Exporters’ Association
RMG export in single month in
industry lies in its cheap labor, (IHKIB), Turkey’s readymade
December 2021 and export in
compared to its competitors such garment (RMG) export to earn
January crossed December.

An Innovation Hub

74 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Global Apparel Sourcing

$20bn in 2021, as European Mexico ranks highly on its tariff machinery for the production of
markets looking for more imports advantage as it maintains strict both fabrics and cut-and-sewn.
from Turkey as Turkey is in close rules of origin that limit the
vicinity to Europe. use of non-US-Mexico-Canada 9. Peru: The country has a strong
Agreement (USMCA) inputs. locally grown quality cotton – with
European brands are looking at The agreement encourages US this the production of textiles
Turkey due to global problems in investment in Mexico’s garment and clothing in Peru has shown
the supply chain, increased freight industry, which relishes tariff-free abundant development in recent
and logistics costs. export to the US, accounting for years which can be ascribed to the
85% of its market. high quality of Peruvian fibers and
While, Turkey has an exceedingly the highly combined production
skilled labor force. As Turkey has Mexico has a big number of process. Besides, Peru has tariffs
moved higher on the list of top free trade agreements (12 with benefit, lead time and its vertical
exporters, the industry has felt 46 countries), which means the integration to source materials.
additional pressure on price, value Mexican market is one of the best
addition, and quality. open and competitive in the world. 10. Thailand: As of January 2021,
nearly seven million pieces of
Turkey has an extensive range 6. Morocco: In 2019, Morocco clothing for boys and men were
of manufacturing competences, exported apparel worth $3.6 exported from Thailand. The
including basics, which endure a billion. Apparel represent a large country is expert in manufacturing
big portion of its garment exports. share of Morocco’s industrial fabric, sportswear, casualwear,
exports, and its government has kidswear and womenswear.
4. China: With 31.6% of global
launched an acceleration plan to
apparel imports from China in The prowess is courtesy to its
boost the sector by 2025.
2020 – the country still holds the textile sector cluster – making
top apparel sourcing destination Over the next few years, Morocco Thailand one of the few countries
despite having several issues is expected to profit from the who has all features from
with the USA and other western capacity-building program for fast production, design and sale
countries. fashion, knitwear and denim. to home textiles. Thailand also
outshines in eco-friendly finishing,
The outbreak of COVID-19 brought 7. Egypt: Egypt’s RMG exports dyeing, and printing services
negative effects to China’s apparel increased by 41 percent in 2021 which meet global standards.
exports in 2020. In 2020, China’s to $2.49 billion. The country has Though, scarcity of raw materials
export value of garments and boosting its promotional and and other challenges prevent the
accessories was worth 137.4 billion marketing services and it has country from catching up with
U.S. dollars, representing an 8.6% taken a number of initiatives to its textile manufacturing giant
loss compared to the previous grow e-marketing tools for its RMG neighbors.
year. However, China’s national exporters. Egypt has a medium-
apparel retail market has slowly sized textile and garment industry
recovered and reached a positive with the EU and the US listed as its
year-on-year growth. major export markets.

According to China’s Ministry 8. El Salvador: In 2019 calendar


of Industry and Information year, El Salvador RMG exports
Technology (MIIT) published data, earned $1.5 billion – according to
China’s apparel export earned a government statistics. Which is
combined operating revenue of 30.6% of total Salvadoran exports.
$209.48 billion from January to
November 2021, recording a 7.7% Its main strength lies in cut, make,
YoY growth. trim efficiency. Though El Salvador
relies severely on imported
5. Mexico: In 2020, Mexico's materials for its cotton products,
exports of apparel and clothing it manufactures synthetic fibers
accessories amounted to $3.32 and fabrics and it has enlarged
billion. While in January to its attention on high-end apparel
October 2021 period, Mexico products such as the growing
exported $2.30 billion worth of athleisure market. The country
apparel alone in the USA. is also importing high-tech

An Innovation Hub

76 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Te x t i l e P e o p l e

Neela Hosna
Ara, Crony Group
Chairman, gets
selected as a Director
to the BGMEA Board
A H Monir

Bangladesh Garment vacant position. Responsibility (CSR), gender


Manufacturers and Exporters equality and women’s health and
Since 1994, Neela Hosna Ara has
Association (BGMEA) has selected hygiene issues in businesses.
been successfully leading the
Neela Hosna Ara, Co-Founder
Crony Group with her vision and She intensely believes in
and Chairperson, Crony Group as its
leadership skills. safeguarding that all employees
Board of Directors on 1st March at a
are receiving a number of benefits.
special meeting at the BGMEA office. Neela Hosna Ara stated her
gratitude to all the board members She was former Regional
A source from BGMEA said that
of BGMEA including President Chairperson and 2017 Convention
Dr. Rubana Huq – the former
Faruque Hassan. Chairperson of the Bangladesh
president – was elected as a
Lions Foundation, an esteemed
Director of BGMEA for 2021- Neela Hosna Ara, is an illustrious
non-governmental organization
23 term. Rubana Huq recently lady entrepreneur in Bangladesh
that focuses on providing free
resigned from her position. And and an expert in the field of
healthcare and education to
Neela Hosna Ara, Chairman of business. She focuses greatly on
underprivileged citizens.
Crony Group was selected in her Crony Group’s Corporate Social

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A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 15, Issue 03 l Pages 79 to 93

March 2022

Exclusive yarn Proposal of solar Strong backward


production from energy power based linkage is a must
abandoned banana draw frame machine for woven sector
plant in Bangladesh on spinning process to grow its fullest
March 2022
The Trust Protocol provides,
for the first time, annual and
verified data to brands and
retailers for seven areas of
sustainability aligned with the
U.N. Sustainability Goals.

Through third-party
verification, robust data inputs
and bale-to-mill trackability,
the Trust Protocol gives
brands and retailers the critical
assurances they need to prove
the cotton fiber element of
their supply chain is more
sustainably grown with lower
environmental and social risk.
The more sustainable cotton
choice, today and tomorrow.

To learn more contact:


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Fiber Innovation

Exclusive yarn
production from
abandoned banana
plant in Bangladesh
Shafiun Nahar Elma

Introduction minimum wage.


Two Bangladeshi entrepreneurs have taken a new One female worker is spreading cortex from a
initiative to make yarn from the banana plant in banana while another one is extracting fibers by
Bangladesh. Banana fiber can be a good source of crushing the cortex in that machine. The third female
sustainable raw materials for garments production. worker is washing the banana cortex with clean
On the other hand, it will play a huge role in the water and drying it in the natural sunlight. If the yarn
development of the Bangladesh garment industry. is sold in this condition, various handicraft companies
of Bangladesh are buying it as a raw material at the
New thoughts of an entrepreneur
price of 180 tk to 300 tk per kilogram; which is so
AKM Shahedul Haque, a garments trader, and Osman much profitable for them.
Biswas who return from Dubai--together they are
Now the entrepreneurs thinking about making
making high-quality yarn from the banana plant at
yarn through the molding machine and selling it
the house of Osman Biswas. He is the son of Elahi
abroad. To go through this process, they have to
Biswas of Mandarbaria village in Kalicharanpur Union
invest around 5 million tk in this project. However, it
of Jhenaidah Sadar Upazila. Jhenaidah is popular for
requires government support to move forward with
banana cultivation. At the end of banana production,
this new idea.
leftover banana plant parts are used as cattle feed.
The rest of the banana plant is discarded. Jhenaidah Sadar Upazila Executive Officer SM
Shahin said, "It is a good initiative. We will go to
After successful production of yarn from the
the spot and see the project and inform the higher
discarded banana fiber, garments traders are seeing
authorities."
the extensive possibility of this idea which has
economic potential. Enormous employment can be Alternative process of making the banana yarn
created through training in this sector. As a result,
The process of making banana yarn:
the problem of rural unemployment will be solved to
some extent and sustainable yarn production will be First step: The cortex is collected from the banana
possible at a lower cost. trees and then they are threshed and mauled by the
machine.
Research and development of the new idea
Second step: It is washed with clean water and dried
Shahedul and Osman creatively started their work.
in the natural heat of the sun.
Hopefully it will be beneficial for the banana growers
and the environment. There is an extra cost to clean Third step: Then it is dipped in a solution of
the land after banana production, they are benefiting bleaching powder, after that it is squeezed out of the
the banana growers and environment by collecting water and then it is dipped in a mixture of hydrogen
discarded banana trees from the fields. They have peroxide and softener after completing this mixing
designed and constructed a machine from a local step it is dried in the sun.
workshop by investing 80,000 tk; then they are able Fourth step: After drying the raw material is given
to collect fiber and crush the cortex of a banana tree. into the molding machine and the molding machine
This machine is running through an electric motor. produced cotton and then finally by using this cotton
Primarily three women workers are working from with a spinning machine they can make yarn.
9 am to 5 pm. They are working with a monthly Using this process, the project has so far been able
salary of 4,000 tk only. They are happy to have the to produce a few ounces of fiber.
opportunity to work close to home, even with this

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 81


An initiative of Textile Today
81-83 Fiber 87-88 News &
Innovation Analysis
The Team

Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO

Amzad Hossain Monir


Head of Business Development Strong backward linkage is
Exclusive yarn production a must for woven sector to
from abandoned banana grow its fullest
plant in Bangladesh

Rahbar Hossain 88 Textile World


Shohel Ahmed
Ibrahim Khalil
83 Technology
Business Development
Innovation

SN Abdullah
Nurunnahar Tania
Research & Development Russia-Ukraine war hinders
Indian Recycled Yarn Market
Exclusive green
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
composite found from
Engagement & Communication 90-91 Sustainably
waste coconut leaf
Today

Yeasin Mia 84-86 Technology


Graphic Design in Spinning

Electricity Electricity
produced supply
Polycrystalline / Mono-
crystalline Solar panels Inverter
Draw frame
of 1000 W

Zakir Hossain When it comes to cotton


Jr. Executive, Web & IT production, Sustainability is
Proposal of solar energy in the water
power based draw frame
machine on spinning process
92-93 Advertorial
Ashraful Alam
Cinematographer
86 Textile World

Md. Ariful Islam


Md. Masudur Rahman Quality Expert: The
Abir Basak operators’ and managers’
ILO findings prove Uzbek
Editorial Contributions favorite
cotton is free from systemic
forced labor
Inquiry:
M. +88 01775 99748
E. monir@textiletoday.com.bd
W. www.textiletoday.com.bd
Te c h n o l o g y I n n o v a t i o n Fiber Innovation

Conclusion Authorities should step forward to bring the success


of this project.
There is a high demand for this banana fiber in
the international market. It is a fully natural fiber Also, some leading Bangladeshi textile factories
being used for various purposes including making are making banana fabric too. Zaber & Zubair
bags, shoes, shoe products, traditional share, etc. Fashion Fabrics Limited for instance is making
Handicrafts are also made by using this fiber. eco-friendly banana fabric. Which are highly strong,
have high moisture absorption capability and are
Since banana production level is high in the district
biodegradable.
Jhenaidah, Raw material is easily available there.

Exclusive green composite


found from waste coconut leaf
R H Tania

A technology for manufacturing a reinforcement interfacial bonding at the interface of fiber and
(strengthening) composite from a waste coconut leaf matrix. To obtain it the natural fibers, which belong
sheath (CLS) has been uncovered by an international to hydroxyl groups containing lignin and cellulose
research team from Russia, India and Thailand. Due are generally chemically modified. By using chemical
to its lightness and strength, it can be used to cover or surface modification, it is possible to improve the
autobahns, create interiors for railway cars and degree of interlocking of at the interface of fiber with
airplanes. Also, it can be used for domestic needs. a matrix, which results in excellent resistance to failure
of the materials," said Sergey Gorbatyuk, Co-author of
the study, Professor of the Department of Engineering
of Technological Equipment at NUST MISIS.
Coconut fiber composites with phenol formaldehyde
were made by hand lay-up technique followed by
compression molding and the study was carried
out by testing tensile, flexural, impact strength, as
well as measuring the rate of water absorption and
biodegradability characteristics.
According to the developers, the results confirm
the superior mechanical properties of the green
composite compared to natural coconut fiber are
driven by the low content of hydrophilic hydroxyl
Figure: A technology for manufacturing a reinforcement
(strengthening) composite from a waste coconut leaf sheath
groups and reduced impurities.
(CLS) has been uncovered by an international research team.
To optimize the technology two types of fibers
Natural fibers - coconut, sisal, coir, jute, banana, - untreated and mercerized - treated with a
hemp, bamboo - are increasingly in demand in the concentrated solution of caustic soda (which is the
industry due to their high mechanical strength and most common alkali) and washed with hot and cold
stiffness, excellent thermal stability and corrosion water. The mercerized composite samples showed
resistance. Use of these natural fibers are increasing an elastic modulus of about 45–60% and a 30–40%
to replace synthetic fibers as a cost-effective, higher tensile strength compared to the untreated
affordable and environmentally friendly solution. sample. This is due to the formation of a special
rough surface on the fibers as a result of processing,
King Mongkut's University of Technology North
which provides a better arrangement of the fibers
Bangkok jointly with the NUST MISIS Department of
and adhesion to the matrix.
Engineering of Technological Equipment conducted
the study on green composites. The leading The study showed clearly that the created composite
scientists from Thailand are Dr. Sanjay Mavinkere is a good candidate for domestic and industrial
Rangappa, Senior Research Scientist at KMUTNB, applications in the decoration of cabins and railway
and Prof. Dr. -Ing. habil. Suchart Siengchin, President cars, highway construction, in commercial interior
of KMUTNB. design as environmental wall and floor coatings.

“The superior properties of composite made of In Russia, developers plan to adapt the technology
natural fibers are driven especially by a good using flax, hemp and nettle fibers as raw materials.

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 83


Te c h n o l o g y i n S p i n n i n g

Proposal of solar energy


power based draw frame
machine on spinning process
A.K.M. Monjurul Haque

Spinning industry is one of the most complicated continuous usage of the equipment in inefficient
manufacturing industries as it is a fragmented and operating parameters. The energy cost is around 15
heterogeneous sector dominated by small and % to 20 % over the production cost and it stands
medium enterprises (SMEs). Energy is one of the next to raw material cost. Hence now a day’s area
main cost factors in the spinning industry. Particularly of focus is towards energy consumption at load
in times of high energy price capriciousness, end and by optimizing the efficiency of the motor.
improving energy efficiency should be a primary In this paper, influence of motors and process of
concern for spinning plants. There are various optimization in spinning mill on energy conservation
energy-efficiency opportunities that exist in every is discussed with practical data.
spinning plant, many of which are cost-effective.
Power shortage and unstable power supply remain
However, even cost-effective options often are not serious problems. Conventional technologies
implemented in yarn manufacturing plants mostly that utilize consume more energy and cause
because of the limited information on how to peak loads leading to negative environmental
implement energy-efficiency measures, especially impacts. As the world grapples with the energy
given the fact that a majority of spinning plants are and environmental crisis, there is an urgent need
categorized as SMEs and hence they have limited to develop and promote environmentally benign
resources to acquire this information.Know-how on sustainable technologies. Solar power based is
energy-efficiency technologies and practices should, one such promising technology, given the fact that
therefore, be prepared and disseminated to yarn solar energy is the cheapest and widely available
manufacturing plants. renewable energy that matches the electricity load
requirements. Now a day, mechanical energy is
As manufacturers face an increasingly competitive
the most viable way to transform thermal energy.
global business environment, they seek opportunities
Thermal energy is the most untamed in nature and it
to reduce production costs without negatively
is not environment friendly to transform the chemical
affecting product yield or quality. For public and
energy of fossil fuel into electricity via mechanical
private companies alike, rising energy prices are
conversion devices as there are some issues like
driving up costs and decreasing value added at
carbon emission, non-abundance of fossil fuel. The
the plant. Successful, cost-effective investment
probable substitutive option for fossil fuel is endless
into energy-efficiency technologies and practices
solar energy or solar thermal energy which can be
meets the challenge of maintaining the output of
converted into electricity via.
a high quality product despite reduced production
In our country, natural
Electricity Electricity gas is used to produce
produced supply electricity so that
Polycrystalline / Mono- maximum textile
crystalline Solar panels of Inverter industry uses gas
Draw frame
1000 W generator and pressure
level is low at present.
Figure: Flow diagram of energy supply So we need alternative
sources of energy for
costs. This is especially important in the current continuous production and sustain our spinning
age, as energy-efficient technologies often industry and also reduce the production cost.
include “additional” benefits, such as increasing
Objectives with specific aims and possible outcome:
the productivity of the company or reducing the
materials consumption. • Apply Green energy on textile spinning process

In spinning mill, electricity consumption is in • To reduce the energy and electricity consumption
increasing trend, due to modernized machines and • To reduce the carbon-di-oxide emission

An Innovation Hub

84 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Te c h n o l o g y i n S p i n n i n g Te x t i l e W o r l d

• Low production cost software like Mat LAB, RET Author:


Screen etc. Then I set up the
• Sustainability of spinning
solar panel on roof top or field
industry.
and connect to the machine
• Calculation the tariff according to the figure. After
Outline of methodology/ that, I calculate the solar energy,
experimental design efficiency, CO2 emission, PBP
(Pay Back Period) and impact
Firstly, recent findings on solar A.K.M. Monjurul Haque
on environment and also the
irradiation data, solar thermal Superintendent, Govt. Textile
reduction of gas or electricity
power and designs of those Vocational Institute, Cumilla
consumption.
will be validated via simulation

ILO findings prove Uzbek cotton is


free from systemic forced labor
S Abdullah

A new ILO findings showed that Uzbekistan- the at the community level) related to social benefits,
sixth largest cotton producer in the world- has and 0.12 percent of respondents reported direct or
succeeded in eradicating systemic forced labor perceived threats by employers related to loss of
and systemic child labor during the 2021 cotton employment or wages.
production cycle. Earlier, almost two million people
The findings are the latest from the ILO Third-Party
are recruited each year for the annual cotton harvest
Monitoring project, which has been monitoring the
in Uzbekistan since the reform process of the
cotton harvest in Uzbekistan since 2015 under an
country’s cotton sector began seven years ago.
agreement with the World Bank.
Working conditions had improved since 2020. Only
five percent said that the conditions were worse than
the previous year which relates to transportation,
food, access to water, hygienic and other facilities.
One in eight people of working age in Uzbekistan
participated in the cotton harvest – the world’s
largest recruitment effort. Sixty-two per cent of
pickers were women, and the vast majority were
from rural areas, the report mentioned.
“Our collaboration has yielded good results –
Figure: A new ILO findings showed that Uzbekistan has succeeded because after 7 years, this year’s report shows that
in eradicating systemic forced labor and systemic child labor
during the 2021 cotton production cycle. Courtesy: ILO
Uzbek cotton is free from systemic child labour and
systemic forced labour,” said ILO Director-General
Under the leadership of President Shavkat Guy Ryder.
Mirziyoyev, the country has embarked on reforms
“There is now an opportunity for Uzbekistan to
that include the modernization of the country’s
realize its goal of moving up the value chain and to
former agricultural economic model and the
create millions of decent full-time jobs in textile and
eradication of child labor and forced labor in the
garment manufacturing.”
annual cotton harvest that was previously prevalent.
The ILO Third-Party Monitoring project is
The forthcoming 2021 ILO Third-Party Monitoring
implemented with support from the European
Report of the Cotton Harvest in Uzbekistan was
Union, the US State Department, the Government
made based on eleven thousand interviews with
of Switzerland, and Germany. It will conclude in May
cotton pickers. Of them, 99 percent of those involved
this year and by request of the government, and
in the 2021 cotton harvest, worked voluntarily.
workers’ and employers’ organizations in Uzbekistan
About one percent was subject to direct or a feasibility study for a Better Work programme will
perceived forms of force. The data shows that 0.47 be undertaken. The Better Work Programme is a joint
percent of respondents reported direct or perceived initiative of the ILO and The World Bank Group.
threats by Mahalla representatives (local officials

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86 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


News & Analysis

Strong backward linkage is a must


for woven sector to grow its fullest
Staff Correspondent

As a whole, the country's apparel


sector is in a cheer-up mode with
the present robust export growth
and work orders inflows by the
global retailers and brands.
According to Export Promotion
Bureau (EPB) data, Bangladesh's
exports earnings from clothing
products posted a robust growth
of 30.73% to $27.50 billion in the
first eight months of the current
fiscal year 2021-22.
During the July-February period of
FY22, the woven sector's earnings
jumped by 28.23 percent to $12.43
billion against and knitwear's 32.87
percent to $15.07 billion. Figure: Economists laid emphasis on fresh investments in woven backward linkage to
reduce import dependence and technology upgradation.
In the growth of the overall apparel


sector, knitwear's contribution is According to Bangladesh Textile
higher than woven products, which Mills Association (BTMA) data,
means export growth is led by around 90% yarn demand for knit
knitwear products. The need for a strong
RMG and 35-40% yarn demand for
backward linkage
During the July- February period woven RMG are met by the country's
industry especially
of FY22, Knitwear products Primary Textile Sector (PTS).
for woven fabrics
contributed $15 billion or 54.80 "Woven products exporters are
became more
percent to total exports of $27.50 highly dependent on imports
prominent during the
billion. While woven products of raw materials for executing
Covid-19 pandemic,"
contributed 45.19 percent or export orders. Most of the woven
$12.42 billion to total RMG exports. fabrics are imported from China,"
In Just 10 years back, the woven Shahidullah Azim, Managing
sector contributed 50.30% or Director of Classic Fashion told the
$9.60 billion to overall exports of Textile Today.
over $19 billion in the fiscal year As a result, supply disruption with
2011-12, while knitwear products Md Mohammad Ali Khokon the Chinese affects Bangladesh's
contributed 49.69% or $9.48 billion. President, BTMA woven sector. To overcome
On the issue, economists and the challenge and reduce
Primary Textile Sector is able to supply
industry people blamed the lack of import dependency, we have to
about 90 percent of the demand
a strong backward linkage industry strengthen our capacity, said Azim,
of yarn," Faruque Hassan, BGMEA
in the segment. In addition, the also a vice president of BGMEA.
president told the Textile Today.
ongoing Covid-19 pandemic Recipe to grow
On the other hand, woven
expedited the growth of knitwear
products manufacturers are highly In growing simultaneously with
products as demands went up due
dependent on imports for fabrics, the knitwear sector, there is no
to people's longtime stay at home
which costs more. That is why alternative to new investment.
due to the travel restrictions.
export earnings from woven goods Economists laid emphasis on fresh
"Knitwear products export is have seen slower growth, said investments in backward linkage
doing better gradually in the last Hassan, also Managing Director of to reduce import dependence and
few years because of a strong Giant Group. technology upgradation.
backward linkage industry. The

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Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 87


News & Analysis Te x t i l e W o r l d

"Despite having vast opportunities It is good news for the RMG sector However, we are yet to meet the
and demands, Bangladesh is able mostly woven that the textile demands of the woven fabrics
to meet about 35% woven fabrics industry recorded an investment of from the local source. But we are
demands, which is over 90% in Tk5790 crore in 2021 to ensure the increasing capacity and making
case of knitwear," Centre for Policy supply of fabrics from local sources. huge investments as demands of
Dialogue (CPD) Research Director products made of recycled fiber
According to the Bangladesh
Khondaker Golam Moazzem told are increasing and becoming more
Textile Mills Association (BTMA)
The Textile Today. popular to the consumers, said the
data, a total of 26 primary textile
business leader.
Right now, textile millers have manufacturers invested Tk 5970
to focus on investment in woven crore in 2021. "Focus should be given on the
fabrics manufacturing. The fresh value addition and research
"The need for a strong backward
investment will improve the and development for turning
linkage industry especially for
country's production capacity. around from the setback. Market
woven fabrics became more
This will help reduce import diversification could be another
prominent during the Covid-19
dependency and increase tool," Zahid Husain, former Lead
pandemic," BTMA President Md
competitiveness in the global Economist, World Bank, Dhaka
Mohammad Ali Khokon told the
markets, said the economist. told the Textile Today.
Textile Today.
In addition, allowing foreign We should develop products that the
During the pandemic we supplied
investment could be a great tool global consumers are demanding,
fabrics and helped to keep the
as it needs more investment to while the exporters have to follow
factory running and meet the lead
set up textile mills as well as high the global fashion trends that are
time, said Ali, also the Managing
technology, said Moazzem. taking the lead, he added.
Director of the Maksons Group.

Russia-Ukraine war hinders Indian Recycled Yarn Market


Sazzad Suzon

As the Russia-Ukraine conflict per kg, and 20s recycled yarn


rages in full-scale, India’s topmost (colored) at ₹125-140 per kg. 10s
recycled yarn market Panipat is optical yarn was traded at ₹100-110
not receiving sufficient import per kg in the market.
supplies of second-hand garments
However, there was no noteworthy
and woolens from Europe.
price drive in virgin cotton yarn
Creating a shortage of secondary
in Ludhiana and Delhi markets,
fiber which is acquired from
as requests from downstream
old clothes and woolens (rugs),
industry remained very meager.
increasing the recycled yarn prices
by ₹5-10 per kg, according to Ludhiana traders say that mills
market information. were trying to increase yarn Figure: India’s topmost recycled yarn
market Panipat is not receiving sufficient
prices but requests from fabric import supplies of second-hand garments
As Europe is a key supplier of old
manufacturers is not positive and woolens from Europe.
garments and woolens for the
for such a rise. As mills’ prices
Panipat market. Panipat market May contract traded down by CNY
were already soaring ₹10-20
is well-known for recycled cotton 65 to CNY 20,210 per MT.
per kg above the market rates
and non-cotton yarn, which is used
as the market is facing higher ICE cotton futures edged lower
for furnished fabrics. According
supplies compared to demand. on Wednesday, despite a slightly
to merchants, at present, the
Clothing units were made at a very bullish supply-demand report.
furnishing market is on the decline.
inadequate scale from the local Cotton contract May 2022 closed
Mills in Panipat import old market. While the export demand at 117.47 cents, down 50 points;
clothes and woolens and turns is even more undefined. July 2022 closed at 113.21 cents,
into fiber and then use for the down 32 points; December 2022
In the international market, ZCE
manufacturing of yarn. closed at 101.69 cents, down 38
cotton yarn in May 2022 futures
According to the latest prices, 10s merchandised lower by CNY 160 points.
recycled yarn (white) was traded at CNY 28,390 per ton, while In Punjab, cotton prices were
at ₹95-100 per kg, 10s recycled September 2022 traded up by ₹75,000-76,200 per candy. In
yarn (colored - high quality) at CNY 5 at CNY 27,935 per MT. ZCE Haryana, the prices were between
₹95-100 per kg, 10s recycled yarn cotton March lost CNY 140 to ₹72,400-74,600.
(colored - low quality) at ₹65-70 trade at CNY 21,300 per MT and

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88 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


BD rotor-spinning
technology

Spinning recycled yarns


Saurer is in an excellent position to process
recycled fibres with the market leader Autocoro in
the fully automated market segment and the BD
product series in the semi-automated market
segment.

With a large number of customers worldwide


already spinning recycled fibres with Autocoro
and BD, Saurer is your competent partner for
extending your portfolio into recycled yarns.

saurer.com
S u s t a i n a b l y To d a y

When it comes to cotton


production, Sustainability
is in the water
It all comes down to water use.
U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol Story

Whether it’s in our own personal lives or the fashion water-intensive crop. According to Transformers
brands we patron, lowering our water use is a Foundation, global averages about cotton’s
significant part of how we reduce our environmental environmental impact can be misleading, as they fail
impact. And it matters in the raw materials these to capture huge local variations in resource usage
brands and retailers decide to source. and impacts. While global data can be useful to tell
whether cotton’s overall impact is going up or down
Figure: U.S. cotton growers are continuously
decade over decade, content and local data are
improving their sustainability practices by employing
key1. Currently 2/3 of cotton grown in the U.S. is not
new technologies to their lower water use.
irrigated, utilizing natural rainfall to grow. Roughly
Contrary to popular belief, cotton is not a 1/3 uses irrigation to supplement natural rainfall and
only 2% is solely dependent on irrigation.
Water sensing technology helps growers map and
track where water is needed throughout their fields.
Irrigation scheduling technology and drip irrigation
ensure water is soaked into the ground. Growers can
also measure water evaporation from the soil and
plants. All these practices ensure growers are taking
advantage of every drop of water. Thanks to these
innovations and technologies U.S. cotton growers
have reduced water use by 79% over the past 35
years.
The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol aims to tell the true
story about U.S. cotton and its water use. With a
growing demand for transparency about brands’ and
retailers’ water use and their raw materials, the Trust
Protocol sets a new standard in more sustainably
grown cotton. It brings quantifiable and verifiable
goals and measurement to sustainable cotton
production and drives continuous improvement in
key sustainability metrics.
Figure: U.S. cotton growers are continuously improving their
sustainability practices by employing new technologies to their It is a system that underpins and verifies U.S. cotton’s
lower water use. sustainability progress through sophisticated data

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90 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


S u s t a i n a b l y To d a y

collection and independent third-party verification,


providing brands and retailers the critical assurances
they need to show that the cotton fiber element of
their supply chain is more sustainably grown with
lower environmental and social risk.
In the face of climate change, brands and retailers
have set comprehensive sustainability plans with
significant objectives for their businesses. And
U.S. cotton growers are continuously improving
their sustainability practices by employing new
technologies to their lower water use. Growers have
introduced systems like computer-driven moisture
sensors to improve water efficiency by alerting them
to periods of sufficient rainwater and showing them
water-level measurements at a series of distances
below ground level. These advancements enable
growers to understand if their cotton is receiving
enough water at all levels. By receiving a picture of
the soil’s moisture, farmers can irrigate their fields
more efficiently – if irrigation is needed at all. Almost
two-thirds of U.S. cotton growers now employ some
type of precision technology. In 2020/21 Trust Protocol grower members showed


significant improvement in water use increasing
efficiency by 14%, compared to the 2025 U.S.
We track every drop of water National Goal for Continuous Improvement of
increasing efficiency by 18%.
that we apply to our fields
As a member of the Trust Protocol mills, merchants,
year-to-year. brands and retailers will gain access to U.S. cotton
with sustainability credentials proven via Field to
We’ve got soil probes in Market:
the field and use satellite The Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture, measured
imagery. We have an via the Fieldprint Calculator and verified with Control
Union Certifications.
agronomist that helps with
Mill and manufacturer members can also be
irrigation scheduling and identified as part of a fully transparent supply chain
crop coefficients. All of and selected by brands and retailers as they look to
source more sustainably grown U.S. cotton fiber.
these changes allow us to
In its first year the Trust Protocol has welcomed
eliminate waste and put more than 560 brand, retailer, mill and manufacturer
members since its launch in 2020. This includes
every drop of water to use.” J.Crew, Madewell, Levi Strauss & Co. and, Gap Inc.
as well as global apparel manufacturer Gildan. The
Aaron Barcellos Trust Protocol has also welcomed UK retailers Tesco,
Byford and Next Plc.
a Trust Protocol grower member
from California.

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Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 91


Advertorial

Quality Expert: The operators’


and managers’ favorite
Uster’s Quality Management Platform makes a huge different to shopfloor personnel.

Uster, Switzerland, 24th February 2022 – Looking very easily. Previously more time was needed to
for vital information in a busy textile mill can be create quality reports, which were then distributed
quick and easy – or a tedious job, turning minutes by email. “The information took too long to reach
into hours. Heavy e-mail traffic can just add to the the right people and was not always up to date. Now,
burden. That’s why leading Vietnamese producer the latest quality results are available in real time
Hoa Tho Textile chose Uster Quality Expert, to give and any required action can be taken immediately,”
fast access to centralized key data and drive major says Nguyen Huu Khanh, Manager of the Yarns
efficiency benefits. Technology Department at Hoa Tho Textile.

Founded in 1962, Hoa Tho is part of one of Vietnam’s The all-round view
largest and longest-established textile and garment
enterprises. Operating a number of mills, the Connecting to Uster Quality Expert is the route to
company wanted to ensure that quality standards effective all-round process optimization in textile
were equal across all of them – and equally high, to mills. The system expands its insightful analytics
serve customers in demanding markets such as the
USA, Europe, Japan and South Korea. So quality
management must be comprehensive, including
data from different locations as well as various
instruments and systems, for quick reports and smart
analysis.

Figure 2: Nguyen Huu Khanh, Manager of the Yarns Technology


Department.

with valuable intelligence, as each additional


instrument is connected. It is the ultimate Quality
Management Platform to drive consistent quality
in every part of the spinning process. That’s what
decided the Vietnamese spinning mill to invest. “It
Figure 1: Leading Vietnamese producer Hoa Tho Textile chose
Uster Quality Expert. is very important for us to control the quality in
yarn clearing in combination with the quality results
One-stop quality data from blowroom, carding and roving,” says Nguyen.
With Quality Expert, a combination of 100% in-line
Uster Quality Expert is the Quality Management monitoring, precise laboratory testing and integrated
Platform for advanced process optimization across intelligence delivers the power to predict potential
yarn manufacturing processes. A single system faults and prevent claims.
provides full transparency and complete control,
securing fiber, yarn and fabric quality. All information Data-based preventive measures are a tremendous
is in one place – definitely a valuable benefit of asset in yarn production, but Uster observes
Quality Expert. Hoa Tho connected its Uster AFIS that customers also greatly appreciate the single
Pro 2, Uster Tester 6, Uster Tensojet 5 and Uster Value Modules of Quality Expert. Each of these
Quantum 3 yarn clearers to this one system. five modules is based on Application Intelligence,
offering advantages in specific fields.
With Quality Expert in place, the mill managers now
have a common reference to compare quality levels The Alarm Center creates awareness and triggers
in each mill. They can now access quality information action – with problem-solving suggestions – in case

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92 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Advertorial

of issues. Mill Analysis offers insightful analytics


for data-based decisions, and Yarn Prognosis
raises the spinner’s reputation to a new level with
customers. The ‘star’ elements among the Value
Modules are Total Contamination Control and Ring
Spinning Optimization. TCC balances ejections in
the blowroom with clearer cuts in winding in the
most advanced way. RSO brings improved spinning
performance with quality transparency from top to
bottom of the cop.

Feelgood: efficiency and control

Nguyen has a secret favorite among Uster Quality


Expert benefits: “The Uster Mobile Alert App is a
great tool to access information while on the road, or
away from the spinning mill. The personnel and I can
be notified, and so solve most issues faster on the
shopfloor. Our mill management has better control
and this results in fewer problems needing to be
escalated to me,” he says.

The Quality Management Platform was developed for


decision-makers – but the biggest fans are actually
the operators and managers working with the system
on a daily basis. “Personally, I have a better view of
the quality produced in our mills, while spending less
time to get the information I need. I would not want
to go back to the era before Quality Expert at any
price,” says Nguyen.

Uster Quality Expert comes in two distinct versions


– both with no compromises in ultimate analysis. It’s
integrated within Uster Tester 6 and also available as
a standalone solution.

USTER TESTER 6
®

About Uster Technologies

Uster is the world’s leading provider of quality


Welcome to the Total Testing Center™ –
management solutions from fiber to fabric. where data drives quality and profit
Uster Technologies offers high-technology
instruments, systems and services for quality control,
Brand-new sensor technology in the USTER ® TESTER 6
prediction, certification and optimization in the
opens the door to greater accuracy and reliability than
textile industry. This includes systems for quality
ever – at blazing fast speeds. Test data shows spinners
management, laboratory testing and in-line process
the full picture, with all the options for assured quality
control for fibers, staple and filament yarns, fabric
inspection as well as value-added services.
and cost-effective production.

Uster provides the globally-acknowledged Uster The Total Testing Center™ – incorporated in the USTER ®
Statistics benchmarks for trading, textile know- TESTER 6 – combines results from laboratory tests with
how training, consulting and worldwide after-sales online data, providing 100 % quality control. It covers
services – always aspiring to fulfill the textile market’s all the spinning mill processes, and extends the options
needs, to drive innovation forward with ‘quality in mind’. as each instrument connects to the system. It’s a unique
business tool, transforming data into practical choices
Uster Technologies AG is headquartered in Uster,
for quality yarns and profitable production.
Switzerland and operates worldwide. It has sales and
service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and
The new USTER ® TESTER 6 sets new global standards
Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville
in evenness testing – and is the starting point for future
(USA), Suzhou (China) and Caesarea (Israel).
mill management.

www.uster.com/tester
P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

Challenges of implementing EMS


& CMS in textile manufacturing: A
Bangladesh perspective
Md. Akhtarujjaman Tony

After the Stockholm declaration polluting the water, soil, air, are also in practice to improve
in 1972, the world issued its first and have a significant negative EMS and CMS practices of the
recognition that people have the impact on the biodiversity of the factories.
right to live in a good environment. surrounding locality.
But there are still so many
Since then many treaties such
To reduce the environmental challenges in proper environmental
as the Kyoto protocol, Montreal
impact of these factories, and chemical management in
protocol, Paris agreement, have
authorities and brands are working the textile production facilities in
been signed over the years to
hard to make production facilities Bangladesh.


conserve the livability of our
adopt standard environmental
environment. As the appeal to
management system (EMS) and
protect our soil, water, air from
chemical management system
various contamination has grown,
(CMS). Various guidelines such as There are some common
many environmental and chemical
National Chemical Management issues that hinder the
management systems have been
Guideline, Bangladesh implementation of EMS and
developed so. Governments,
Standards, Guidelines for Sludge CMS by the production house
industries, and various non-
Management, National Waste managers. The managers also
governmental organizations
Management Guideline have been face a lack of sufficient man
are working for ensuring
developed by the government capable manpower.
environmental sustainability by
of Bangladesh to facilitate
reducing the impact of various
the implementation of the
aspects of our livelihood on the
Environmental Conservation Act
environment.

Mohammad Waliullah
Auditor -Environment & Social
at Intertek Bangladesh

According to Mohammad
Waliullah, Auditor -Environment
& Social at Intertek Bangladesh
who has also worked in textile
factories and brands’ sustainability
department for several years,
said that there are some
common issues that hinder the
implementation of EMS and
Figure 1: Segregated chemicals in chemical store. CMS by the production house
managers. The managers also face
a lack of sufficient man capable
As the powerhouse of our and 3R Strategy. ZDHC Roadmap
manpower.
economy, the textile industry has to Zero, Sustainable Apparel
a huge environmental impact in Coalition, GIZ developed tools • Lack of understanding of
Bangladesh. Textile production like ZDHC MRSL, Wastewater current market demand for
facilities are responsible for guideline, Higg FEM, BHive, etc. sustainable sourcing,

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94 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Tra d e & B i z P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

• Lack of the concept of should take regular updates It is also challenging for the
sustainable development, of sustainability performance factories to adopt different
from their managers. They sustainability monitoring tools
• Reluctance to long term
should be aware of the current for different brands. A common
initiatives to ensure sustainable
market demand for sustainable monitoring tool used by all brands
development,


manufacturing. could relieve the factories from
• Lack of training & awareness a huge hassle and make it easier
of environmental & chemical for them to meet environmental
management as well sustainable sustainability requirements.
Sometimes I feel alone
development,
while troubleshooting “At a time, we have to use different
Md. Rashedul Islam, Assistant and maintaining my ETP tools for a single purpose for
Manager, ECR at Comfit as well as performing the different buyers which causes--
Composite Knit Ltd said, responsibilities of EMS & in many cases--wastage of time
“Sometimes I feel alone while CMS with a single pair of and resources. For example, for
troubleshooting and maintaining hands.” chemical management we have
my ETP as well as performing the to use Clean chain, Bhive, Blusign
responsibilities of EMS & CMS with System, ZDHC Gateway for
a single pair of hands.” different buyers’ requirement,” Md.
Managing the workers is also a Rashedul Islam said.
big challenge in factories, they are Mohammad Waliullah demanded,
not sincere about their health and “EMS and ECR responsible
safety. They are very reluctant to personnel should be given direct
use personal protective equipment and easy access to the top
(PPE) during work in a hazardous Md. Rashedul Islam
management so that they can
environment. Assistant Manager, ECR at share their problems with them.”
Mohammad Waliullah thinks that Comfit Composite Knit Ltd.
Ensuring a proper Environmental
the workers need more training and chemical management
Government and brands need
and awareness programs to be system in factories is the basic
to be more stringent about
more sincere and practicing. requirement of sustainable
the factories’ environmental
Factory top management also performance before issuing textile production. Technically
needs to be sincere about operating permission and competent professionals need to
their factory’s environmental purchase orders to make for this. be recruited to make it feasible in
performance. Top management the industries.

Summit Alliance Port Ltd (SAPL) begins handling


break-bulk raw cotton to facilitate BD's spinning mills
Desk Report

Summit Alliance Port Limited Asia, Brazil, USA and West Africa bales weighing approximately 1.85
(SAPL) began handling of break- due to the disruption in global million metric tonne and this figure
bulk raw cotton from India with supply-chain, unavailability of is projected to cross 9 million
alternative logistics solution containers and historically high metric tonne bales in the current
for Bangladesh’s spinning mills freight-rates.” year due to the strong rise in
and readymade garment (RMG) demand for yarn and fabrics from
“As a result, the market demand
sectors’ industrial raw materials, the local RMG exporters.
of raw cotton from India has
said a statement. .
increased tremendously in the last The inland river route from
On the launching occasion on few years. We are supporting the Kolkata to Muktarpur provides an
3 March, Summit Alliance Port industries by providing alternate unparalleled safe passage for the
managing Director Jowher Rizvi and environmentally sustainable raw cotton cargo throughout the
said, “This new service by SAPL sourcing while avoiding regular year that is a guaranteed and time-
Muktarpur Terminal comes at a congestion at the land ports,” he bound option which is not possible
time when the Bangladeshi raw added. on the traditional sea route for
cotton importers who are finding container shipments or via land
In 2021, Bangladesh imported
it challenging to import from ports.
8.5 million metric tonne cotton
traditional sources such as Central

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Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 95


Fabric Innovation

Fabrics innovations from


natural fruits and ingredients
Shafiun Nahar Elma

Leather, which is used for its permanence and


versatility, has long been associated with grandeur
brands. The production process of the glamourous
leather product is involved with huge amounts
of energy and exposes workers to a sea of toxic
chemicals. We can turn to sustainable vegan-based
alternatives that imitate leather’s appearance,
strength and touch also.

Figure 2: Mylo has been featured by Stella McCartney for an


exclusive bustier top and trousers and Lululemon for a yoga mat
and bags. Courtesy: Collected

of the two years it takes to rear a cow for hiding


suitable for leather production. From footwear
to bags, yoga mats to handbags, Mylo has been
featured by Stella McCartney for an exclusive bustier
top and trousers and Lululemon for a yoga mat and
bags.
Figure 1: Shoe brand Camper and fashion brand Ally Capellino
have developed prototypes for Pinãtex creator Carmen Hijosa. There are unlimited possibilities for this eco-friendly
Courtesy: Collected
material. The final material is a sustainable alternative
Here are some recent vegan-based alternatives that of leather that is soft, supple, strong, and suitable to
shows tremendous prospect. produce a wide range of products.

Pinatex from pineapple leaves Fabric from orange

It is made from pineapple leaves developed by Dr. Orange Fiber won the 2015 Global Change Award by
Carmen Hijosa and manufactured under Ananas the H&M Foundation for its ingenious combination
Anam. Pineapple leaf fiber distracted mechanically, of Italian heritage – textiles and food. The innovative
then washed and dried before being purified using and sustainable fabrics developed by the Italian
enzymes. Its production cuts down on waste (5% company Orange Fiber. Adriana Santanocito and
compared to 25% of real leather) and it can be Enrica Arena, the founder of the company, launched
recycled into fertilizer. a citrus capsule collection making it the first fashion
house to use Orange Fiber fabrics.
The fabric is water-resistant and breathable, yet light
with superb tensile strength. It has already caught Each year, over 700,000 tons of citrus juice
the attention and been used by top brands including by-product is wasted in Italy, costing both the
Nike and Hugo Boss. processing industry and the environment. Then they
Transformed trash into their treasure. Orange fiber
Mycelium from mushrooms
applies knowledge in the textiles sector to discarded
Mycelium is the branching underground root system citrus peel to produce a lightweight cellulose yarn
of mushrooms developed by textile fiber company, that is ethereal, soft, and silky.
Bolt Threads, manufacturing by Mylo and involves
Highly versatile, the resulting fabric echoes the
recreating the growing conditions of mycelium’s
exquisite high-end fabrics used in premium and
natural habitat by using the forest floor but in a lab.
luxury fashion brands. Besides everything, the fabric
The whole process takes just a few weeks instead is biodegradable and ultimately forms a closed-loop

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96 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Fabric Innovation

protection and a quick drying time.


Now, the challenge remains in taking the fiber
globally and ensuring more apparel brands
incorporate it into their collections instead of
conventional fabrics and that it extends its reach
outside of the fashion and textile industry.
Banana fiber from banana
It is one of the world’s strongest natural fibers made
from the stem of the banana tree and is incredibly
durable and biodegradable. The fiber consists
of thick-walled cell tissue, bonded together by
natural gums and is mainly composed of cellulose,
hemicelluloses, and lignin. Banana fiber is similar to
Figure 3: Orange Fiber won the 2015 Global Change Award by natural bamboo fiber, but its spin ability, fineness,
the H&M Foundation for its ingenious combination of Italian
heritage – textiles. Courtesy: Collected and tensile strength are said to be better. Extracting
the banana fiber from the banana stems is not an
system. The fabric made another highly anticipated easy, or simple, process but a labor-intensive one.
appearance in H&M’s Conscious Exclusive collection.
Coffee ground fiber from coffee
The coffee grounds used to create the yarn are taken
and recycled from some of the world’s largest coffee
vendors, like Starbucks. In this way, the company
gives a second life to coffee grounds which would
have otherwise ended up in the trash.
Most coffee drinkers simply throw away coffee
grounds after making their coffee. But it is an
important raw material that can be used to make
coffee ground fibers.

Figure 5: Banana yarn or cloth is made by boiling strips of the


sheath in an alkaline solution to soften and separate them.
Courtesy: Collected

Banana yarn or cloth is made by boiling strips of the


sheath in an alkaline solution to soften and separate
them. Once this is done, the fibers are joined
together to create long threads which are then spun
wet, to prevent them from breaking.
Afterward, the threads can be dyed or weaved.
Banana fibers can be used to make ropes, mats,
woven fabrics as well as handmade papers. Green
Figure 4: Singtex’s S. Café® technology, with a low-temperature,
high-pressure and energy saving process, combines coffee Banana Paper, a company based on the island of
grounds onto the yarn surface, changing the characteristics of Kosrae in Micronesia, is using banana fiber to make
the filament Courtesy: Singtex
vegan wallets, purses, beads, and paper.

Taiwanese textile company Singtex’s technology Conclusion


combines the post-patented processed coffee Bangladesh has a huge opportunity to work on
ground with polymer to create master batches vegan leather and natural fiber. Utilizing the country’s
before spinning them into yarn. village people to produce fiber from the banana tree,
The final coffee yarn is multi-functional and can be government can take necessary action as the banana
used in a variety of products, from outdoor and tree is available in most of the villages of Bangladesh.
sports performance wear to household items used Pineapple is also available in hilly areas of
every day. Fabrics made out of coffee ground fibers Bangladesh. So, it is a huge opportunity for
like S.Café by Singtex shown here offer excellent Bangladesh to go for producing sustainable product
natural anti-odor qualities, in addition to UV ray utilizing its land and manpower effectively.

An Innovation Hub

98 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Brands' Activities

Solar EPC ties with Textile Today


Innovation Hub to explore innovation
scopes in renewable energy
Sayed Abdullah

Lessening CO2 emissions through reducing Qudrat A Mazid, Founder & Managing Director, Solar
dependence on traditional energy sources has been EPC and Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today
a growing talk globally. And renewable energy has signed on behalf of the respective companies at
garnered momentum – as it caters to various fronts Solar EPC office premise on 15 March.
effectively. Most imploringly saving the environment
This association between SEPC and Textile Today
by reducing CO2 emission and producing energy in a
will quicken the implementation of more solar
cost-effective way.
power projects and related innovations in the T&A
In Bangladesh, non-stop electricity supply is still industry. And advance with a number of innovative
unstable. Additionally, the electricity price is unstable projects with the Textile Today Innovation Hub. Thus,
and it can rise at any time. Both of which is a must benefitting the T&A industry by providing solar
in Bangladesh textile and apparel
(T&A) industry.
Having said that, since 2019, Solar OUR KEY FEATURES
EPC Development Ltd. (SEPC) –
leading and fastest-growing solar
power project developer and Site Survey & Detailed System Design Installation & Commission
Assessment & Financial Analysis Through Expert Team
consultancy firm – has recently
become a Textile Today Associate
(TTA) to discover innovation Affordable & Bankable Focused on Consumer Policy Implementation
Solar Solution Awareness with Higher Standard
opportunities in the renewable
energy sector in T&A industry
through Textile Today Innovation Complementary O&M Dedicated Operations & Quality Assurance
Hub. Service Maintenance Team

In the signing event Ezaz Al

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 99


S u s t a i n a b l y To d a y

energy in an efficient and cost-effective way. EPC Development Ltd. as associates of Textile Today
Innovation Hub.”
Solar EPC Development Ltd. is one of the foremost
and fastest-growing solar power project developers “I believe this association will bring innovative
and consultancy firms in Bangladesh. ISO Certified and sustainable STB projects in solar power areas
SEPC is associated with renowned and reputed as ‘sustainable energy’ has become a buzzword in
international Solar Project Developer, EPC Contractor Bangladesh's textile and apparel industry. The outcome
and Investors. The company aims for a better and of the project will help the industries to unearth
greener world with eco-friendly energy technologies. the effective ways to go forward with best possible
SEPC is the pioneer of floating solar in Bangladesh renewable energy technologies,” Tareq Amin added.
and implemented the first-ever floating solar project
Becoming a part of this ‘Innovation Hub’ Textile Today
in Bangladesh (10 KW).
Associates will be allowed to utilize the platform’s
SEPC has an experienced operations and knowledge, communication, and networking leverage
maintenance division, which takes preventive in the market as an innovation-driven business.
and corrective maintenance services for solar
In the memento handover ceremony Samiha Fairooz
power plants. Besides, the company provides
Adhurika, Business Analyst – New Initiative I C&I
advisory services for project feasibility study, pre-
Solar PV Rooftop Project; Imran AAfrat, Project
development, detailed design and engineering, debt
Engineer, Solar EPC Development Ltd., Amzad Hossain
financing, project management, etc.
Monir, Head of Business Development, Sayed Abdullah,
Tareq Amin said, “We are very happy to have Solar Asst. Manager, Editorial, Textile Today were present.

3rd Regional ZDHC South Asia


Conference to be held at Mumbai
N Tania

ZDHC Roadmap to Zero is pleased to announce its • Building ZDHC Programme Excellence
third Regional Conference on 29th April 2022 at The
• Scaling ZDHC adoption and accelerating impact
Lalit Hotel, Sahar Road, Andheri East, Mumbai, India.
The theme of the conference is “Moving together to • Apparel Alliance collaboration – the key to the future
create a better planet”. • ZDHC engagement model
Chemicals impact our planet in terms of clean water, • Brand journeys with ZDHC
clean air and clean soil, hazardous waste, worker
• Role of stakeholders in accelerating ZDHC
safety, circularity, biodiversity preservation and climate
change (through GHG emissions). Sound chemical • Innovations in sustainable chemistry, machinery
management is at the heart of reducing these impacts (waterless dyeing technology), process optimization
on the environment. The conference will showcase how & resource efficiency and wastewater treatment
the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme is ensuring technologies
that textile & leather production activities and a safer • Tools for implementing sound chemical
planet can co-exist. management at a factory
Representatives from all stakeholders in the textile The conference will end with a visual experience on the
and leather value chain – Brands, manufacturers, theme through a dance ballet.
chemical formulators, solution providers, industry
Registrations to the Conference are now open
associations and academia – are expected to attend
through the Events page on the ZDHC website www.
this conference, where industry experts and peers will
roadmaptozero.com. Go to “Resources” tab and click
speak and debate on how we can collaborate and join
on “Events”. If not registered on the tool, you can
forces to create a better planet through best practices
‘create account’ and then log-in with your credentials
and innovations in sustainable chemical management.
to ‘book an event’.
Dipali Goenka, CEO & Jt MD at Welspun India, will be
our keynote speaker. The Conference can be attended in -person OR virtual.
The delegate fee for in-person attendance is Euro 60/-
The event will be held in- person but will also be
(Early bird fee till 15th April 2022), while for the ‘Virtual’
streamed live through the ZDHC Virtual Platform for a
option through our Virtual Platform, it is Euro 40/- per
global audience. The topics that will be covered are:
delegate.

An Innovation Hub

100 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Exports Updates

RMG export growth to USA outshines


China, Vietnam in Jan 2022
Sayed Abdullah

Bangladesh's readymade garment (RMG) exports to Top 3 apparel exporting countries in USA Jan 2022
the USA upheld an impressive growth - both in terms (In $bn) Source: OTEXA
of value and volume - in January 2022. In terms of
2.0 1.9
export growth, the country outshined its rivals China
and Vietnam. 1.5
1.27
As per the OTEXA data, the USA imported $756
million worth of apparel items from Bangladesh in
1.0 0.76
January 2022. Witnessing an impressive 45.53% 0.5
growth. While the country exported $519 million
RMG goods in January 2021. 0.0
China Vietnam Bangladesh

The OTEXA data also revealed that in terms of


volume – the USA imported 282.38 million square after the graduation.”
meters of RMG from Bangladesh. Growing by 42.17%. “As you know that our RMG export to the USA
The overall US apparel imports from the world also grew by 49.38% and earned $5.08 billion during
augmented by 36.60% to $7.54 billion on January July-January of FY2021-22, a significant growth,”
2022 - from $5.52 billion in the same month of 2021, added Faruque Hassan – who is currently leading
the OTEXA data showed. BGMEA delegation team in the Executive Summit of
American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA)
Among other top apparel exporting countries to the being held in Washington D.C. to represent the
USA, China exported $1.90. While Vietnam exported garment industry of Bangladesh and showcase its
$1.27 billion RMG in the first month of the present success stories and potential among international
calendar year. While apparel export growth from brands and buyers.
India grew by 53.40%, Pakistan 44.41%, Cambodia
42.12% in the USA. "In such a context, Bangladesh needs to step up its
diplomatic efforts in our major export markets, like
Faruque Hassan, President, BGMEA said, “Newer the US, to create an enabling environment to expand
challenges will emerge for Bangladesh in the post- trade," said BGMEA President at a meeting with M
LDC era, as the trade facilities - currently being Shahidul Islam, Bangladesh Ambassador to the USA,
enjoyed by the country - will no longer be available in Washington DC recently.

Rising logistics costs hit Vietnamese exporters


Ashraful Alam

The increasing logistics costs long-distance orders from its


severely hit Vietnamese exporters foreign partners due to higher
and they have cancelled some logistic costs. Farmers will also
orders. Recently, shipping lines suffer as they will get a lower
have raised up freight rates, tallying price for their products.”
a cost of at least $1,314 to every
Ngo Tuong Vy, Deputy Director
container transported to China.
of Chanh Thu Fruit Export and
The Vietnamese exporters complain Import Ltd., said, “My firm had
that in spite of higher freight rates, never gone through such a tough
service did not get better. time and had no choice but to
price up its products to cover the Figure: A CMA-CGM's cargo ship at
Le Thi My Hanh, General Director Germanlink Int'l Port in Ba Ria-Vung Tau
mounting costs.” province. Courtesy: baochinhphu.vn
of Banana Brother Farm, said costs
had increased by $131-$175 per truck Nguyen Hoai Nam, Deputy
container to Europe or the USA.
to transport bananas from growing General Secretary of Vietnam
regions to border gates or seaports. Association of Seafood Exporters Hoai Nam said that some shipping
and Producers, accepted that lines often delayed shipments
For Ngo Thi Hong Thu, General
logistic costs are $5,000-$10,000 for 10-30 days for no motive,
Director of Ameii Vienam
higher than 2020 rates for every complexing the situation.
said, “I had to decline several

An Innovation Hub

102 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Tra d e & B i z

DCCI urges lowering


corporate tax rate by 2.5%
The Chamber placed its budget recommendations to NBR for FY2022-23
Sayed Abdullah

The Dhaka Chamber of Commerce


& Industry (DCCI) placed a set
of total 40 recommendations for
the upcoming national budget
of FY2022-23 to the Chairman
of National Board of Revenue
(NBR) on March 9, 2022. DCCI
President Rizwan Rahman handed
over the Chamber’s budget
recommendations to the Chairman
of NBR Abu Hena Md. Rahmatul
Muneem at a pre-budget discussion
meeting held at NBR headquarter.
Meanwhile, the DCCI Chief Rizwan
Rahman proposed to increase
the tax free income limit for
the individual tax payer from
existing taka 3 lakh to taka 4 lakh
considering the increasing inflation Figure: DCCI President handed over the Chamber’s budget recommendations to the
Chairman of NBR Abu Hena Md. Rahmatul Muneem at a pre-budget discussion meeting.
and cost of living situation. He
said that about 27 lakh tax payers are exempted for VAT. But he encouraging local industrialization
regularly submit their returns on recommended to increase this and an investment friendly
an average every year which is turnover limit to taka 4 crore in environment aiming to attain the
very nominal for an economy like the next budget and also requested to goal of economic development.
Bangladesh. He also said that NBR impose turnover tax based on product’s
Chairman of NBR Abu Hena Md.
should take a long term strategic value addition or profit margin.
Rahmatul Muneem said that
plan to increase the number of tax
Rizwan Rahman also trade organizations can arrange
payers up to at least 8 million in next
recommended minimizing lengthy knowledge sharing activities to
10 years of time. He also underscored
process of getting bond license make their members aware of
the importance of full automation of
for leather goods and footwear various policies that NBR takes
overall taxation system.
industry. Moreover, he suggested related to revenue and duty
In order to become competitive to give bond renewal facility for at structure. He also said that before
in the region, the DCCI President least 3 years to these sectors like LDC graduation our private sector
proposed to reduce corporate the RMG sector. He also demanded have to enhance their capacity
tax at a rate of 2.5% for both tax exemption on locally produced because after graduation many
listed and non-listed companies machineries and components for facilities that they are enjoying
which are now 22.5% for listed electric vehicle charging station in now will not be available then.
companies and 30% for non-listed the country in order to promote To create a business friendly
companies. He then proposed to sustainable and environment environment in the country NBR
slash tax on income of corporate friendly automobile industry within is relentlessly working and NBR is
dividend from existing 20% to 10%. the country. simultaneously trying to increase
He said that it will encourage the the tax net. In the last two years
Lastly the DCCI President Rizwan
local investors to re-invest as well government was more flexible in
Rahman stressed on easy and
as boost efficiency in the stock terms of tax rate to boost GDP and
business friendly taxation system,
market. employment generation and this year
increasing tax and vat net, full
Currently businesses that have an the budget will be made considering
automation of tax management,
annual turnover of taka 3 crore macro policy perspective.
product diversification,

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 103


Fashion & Retail

UK luxury brands showcases


at Paris Fashion Week
Amena Kamal Khan
which are obtained from deadstock textiles. Small-scale
renewable wood sources production is also based in
in a closed process London to ensure ethical pay and
providing offers a smooth conditions, delivering beautifully
grip, curtain and fluid-like hand-crafted designs that are
color and vibrancy. friendly to the planet.
The latest Teija Eilola Yasmin Sewell and Kyle Robinson,
collection, which can founders of womenswear
be seen at Paper brand Être Cécile said, “For us,
Mache Tiger, consists of sustainability means producing
handmade details and clothes using ethically sourced
unique drapery that are materials that you can continue
cut to create one of a wearing for years to come: future-
kind item with Nordic friendly wardrobe classics. We
spirit. In this collection, stand firmly against fast fashion
Teija has used a 1910 and instead adopt a slower, more
patent of Scottish Wax mindful approach with a focus
cotton, sustainably on quality. Everything we create
grown cashmere yarn in will eventually return to the earth,
Traditional Aran patterns so we are committed to using
Figure: UK luxury brands latest collections feature and Made in Italy fine natural, plant-based textiles where
organic, recycled or environmental friendly fabrics. quilted leather from local possible.”
Courtesy: ELLE
tanneries.
Contemporary womenswear
UK luxury brands have “With delicate metallic designer Eudon Choi’s new
participated in the recent Paris beadwork, structured double wool, collection uses organic cotton,
Fashion Week after almost a two- and luxurious oversized knitwear, ethically sourced cashmere, eco-
year pause. The 2-year break gave we are keeping our focus on friendly viscose, recycled synthetic
the British designers to rethink finding new ways to be sustainable fibres and surplus fabrics.
their design and return with and thoughtful on the process and
Atlas Accessories, showing
revived and sustainable collections local sourcing,” Eilola Said.
virtually at AQ Market, uses unique
that enthuse fashion buyers.
Clothing brand Avantgarde IA materials such as plant fibre and
UK luxury brands' latest collections London, which is showing at recycled precious metals are all
feature organic, recycled or Paris Showroom NO SEASON ethically and sustainably sourced
environmental friendly fabrics this season, seeks to provide a but it is the brand’s unique
beside new innovative materials and sense of timelessness, authenticity tribal leathers that showcase its
are fashioned using local small-scale and quality in the age of fast sustainability. Historically proven
manufacturing, ethical sourcing or consumerism, with the longevity sustainable resources designed by
circular processes. At the same time, of the garments is achieved by nature to be durable, helping to
not compromise on style. focusing on their quality. The reduce disposability.
For the new season, sustainable brand works with carefully-
Footwear and jewellery designer
luxury brand BAV TAILOR further selected British digital textile
Freya Rose, who is showing at
reinforces its commitment to printing specialists to ensure that
Premiere Classe, is dedicated to
global craftsmanship, diversity the deep vibrant colors of the
ensuring all her beautiful ‘wearable
and ‘slowly’ fashion through prints will last, enhanced through
works of art’ are made ethically.
the brand’s conscious 360° the uncompromising quality of
Out of Sync, which is showing
manifesto. The new Ananda fabrics and careful quality control.
virtually at AQ Market, is focused
AW22/23 collection focuses on the Womenswear brand Anciela, on local manufacturing, rescued
synthesis of conscious luxury and showing at Schröroom, utilises and sustainable fabrics and
responsibility through innovative an array of circular processes, versatile design.
new materials such as Tencel Luxe, recycled fibre jacquards and

An Innovation Hub

104 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


(ASRS)

Export in more than 32 countries......

-India
 Plot No. 559 , Opp Road No. 9 , Kathwada GIDC ,
Ahmedabad 382 430 ( Gujarat ) India
E x p o r t s Awa r d s E v e n t To d a y

HSBC awards Envoy Textiles, Pacific Jeans Group


and Malek Spinning on Export Excellence
Textile Today Report

Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation Malek Spinning Group won the award for excellence
(HSBC) Ltd. honored Envoy Textiles Limited, Pacific in sustainability.
Jeans Group and Malek Spinning Group at the 2nd
Tipu Munshi, MP, Honourable Commerce Minister was
HSBC Business Excellence Awards.
the chief guest at the event. While Zunaid Ahmed
Envoy Textiles Limited has been awarded the Palak, MP, Honourable State Minister, Information and
2nd HSBC Business Excellence Award on Export Communications Technology Division as guest of
Excellence in Supply Chain and Backward Linkage, honour. H.E. Robert Chatterton Dickson, British High
2022 category, for having an annual export turnover Commissioner to Bangladesh and Md. Jashim Uddin,
of more than $10 million. President, FBCCI were present as special guests.
While Pacific Jeans Group won in the category of The award giving ceremony was adorned with the
export excellence in readymade garments (RMG) for presence of and Amanda Murphy, General Manager,
having an annual export turnover of more than $50 Head of Commercial Banking, HSBC, South and
million. South East Asia also joined the program.

Figure 1: Kutubuddin Ahmed, Chairman of Envoy Textiles Limited Figure 2: Tanvir Ahmed, Director of Envoy Textiles & BGMEA, and
receiving the award from Tipu Munshi. the senior management team of the company were also present.

PTEC Career Club organizes expert talk on denim and garments washing
Md. Al-Amin, PTEC Campus Correspondent

Pabna Textile Engineering College (PTEC) Career


Club has successfully organized a workshop on the future
transformation, potentiality, and future employment
of youth in the denim and garment washing industry
in Bangladesh. The workshop was organized at the
auditorium hall of PTEC on 10 March 2022.
Denim and garment washing leaders – Engr. SM
Shohel Rana, Managing Director, Denim Solution
Limited & General Secretary of ATET; Arief Labu,
Country Manager, Denimco, Turkey; Kamal Uddin, Figure: (on the stage from left to right) Engr. SM Shohel Rana,
Arief Labthe, Kamal Uddin, Engr. Md. Solaiman, Engr. Abdul Alim.
COO of Tarashima Apparel LTD; Engr. Abdul Alim
General Manager of Ananta Denim Technology Ltd.
graced the event. Engineer Md. Solaiman said, "Just as you need
to concentrate on academic studies, you need to
While, Engineer Md. Solaiman, Principal of Pabna acquire practical knowledge of the industry without
Textile Engineering College presided over the wasting time."
workshop.
Other speakers shared practical experiences among
SM Shohel Rana, General Secretary of ATET and young textile engineers and focus on the potentiality
Managing Director of Denim Solutions Ltd. said, of the denim washing industry in Bangladesh.
"There is no solution of saying go back foreigners The seminar was wrapped by answering various
rather you have to gather a lot of technical questions from the students. Denim Solution Limited
knowledge and experience from the same place if sponsored and supported the program.
you want to go big position in the denim industry."

An Innovation Hub

106 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


Chemical Brand

Samuda Spec-Chem unveils new adhesive brand SAM-Bond


Yeasin Miah

Bangladesh-based textile chemical manufacturing


company, Samuda Spec-Chem Limited has unveiled
a new adhesive brand SAM-Bond at an event in the
Dealer Conference-2022. The launching ceremony
was held in Dhaka during a business event titled
‘ORJON KORBO EK SATHE’ (Together We Will
Achieve) of Samuda on 12 March.
Muhammad Mostafa Haider, Managing Director,
Samuda Spec-Chem and Abul Kalam, Managing
Director, TK Group inaugurated the Dealer
Conference-2022.
Figure: Samuda Spec-Chem Limited has unveiled a new adhesive
While, Nasim Anwar FCA, Adviser, Samuda Spec- brand SAM-Bond at an event in the Dealer Conference-2022.
Chem presided over the event.
Haque, Head of Sales Samuda Spec-Chem Ltd
Among Mostafizur Rahman, Director; Bikash Kanti (Adhesives); Mizanur Rahman, Head of Operations
Das, Head of Business; Akramuzzaman FCMA, Samuda Spec-Chem Ltd (Adhesives); and Mosfiqul
General Manager (Finance); Anamul Kibria Rony, Azam, Head of Human Resources of Samuda
Senior DGM of Samuda Chemical Complex Ltd & Chemical Complex Ltd along with other functional
Samuda Spec-Chem Ltd (Textile Auxiliaries); Zahurul lead were present in that program.

Bangladesh apparel value addition remains shaky


Textile Today Report

Bangladesh’s readymade garment (RMG) value


Bangladesh’s year wise RMG value addition %
addition has been inconsistent in recent years. Source: Bangladesh Bank
Apparel exporters have mainly attributed the 80
70 60.94 64.32 59.13
COVID-19 pandemic-induced raw materials high 60 56.49 55.8
prices and lack of long-term policy supports for this. 50
40
30
According to the Bangladesh Bank data, 20
10
Bangladesh’s RMG items' value addition was 59.13 0
percent in fiscal year (FY) 21, which was 56.49 FY2018 FY2019 FY2020 FY2021 FY2022
(1st half)
percent in FY 20.
according to its latest quarterly report.
In FY20, Bangladesh apparel export earnings stood
at $27.94 billion, while the country imported raw The RMG industry leaders said Bangladesh is mainly
materials worth $12.26 billion. Thus, Bangladesh’s dependent on imported raw materials, such as
net apparel exports stood at $15.67 billion in FY20, cotton, petro-chemicals and chemicals, despite being
displaying a 56.49 percent value addition. the second-largest exporter of RMG.

During the first half (H1) of the current FY 2021-22, The value addition of the knitwear sub-sector is
the value addition percentage further reduced to higher than the woven segment, as the former
55.80%, as net RMG exports stood at $11.10 billion sources 80 percent of its required raw materials from
against exports worth $19.90 billion and raw material the local market, while woven is largely dependent
imports worth $8.79 billion. on imported fabrics, they noted.

While the value addition remained almost stationary Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters
between 60% and 64% from FY 2012-13 to FY 2018- Association (BGMEA) Vice President Md Shahidullah
19, the data also showed. And in FY 19, the value Azim said to media that the prices of raw materials
addition remained lower than the pre-pandemic have significantly gone up during the last two years -
64.32 percent, data showed. mainly because of the pandemic.

The central bank considered the main head value of "Though we have been getting huge volume of
the components (raw cotton, synthetic/viscose fibre, work orders, prices of finished products have
synthetic/mixed yarn, cotton yarn, textile fabrics, not increased in line with the high prices of raw
and accessories for garments) instead of only raw materials. The sky-rocketing raw material prices have
materials - brought through back to back L/Cs, eaten up our value addition."

An Innovation Hub

Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022 107


Obituary

Nasir Uddin’s demise leave


an unrepaired wound in
Bangladesh’s denim sector
Sayed Abdullah

Mir Nasir Uddin, Chairman, Pacific Uddin also served as a director


Jeans Group at the age of 71 of the Bangladesh Garment
breathed his last on 28 February Manufacturers and Exporters
2021. Mir Nasir Uddin has been Association (BGMEA). He had
an icon in Bangladesh’s denim been awarded the national
sector for more than 3 decades. export trophy 24 times for his
His unparalleled height in the achievement in exports and has
country’s denim manufacturing been a commercially important
industry. And Mir Nasir Uddin will person (CIP) for many years.
continue to show the paths ahead He also received the prominent
for denim entrepreneurs. Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib
Industrial Award-2020.
Nasir Uddin was born at Salimpur
village in Sitakunda of Chattogram Pacific Jeans Group's management
district. takes good care of their workforce
by letting them to participate in
He started the business in
decision-making, so that they
1984. He established the first
develop a sense of belongingness.
denim laundry in Bangladesh in
1986. At present, Pacific jeans His son Syed M Tanvir, Managing
Group has 10 state-of-the-art Nasir Uddin served Director of Pacific Jeans is
production units. Employs over as a director of the successfully carrying the legacy
35,000 people, manufacturing Bangladesh Garment of his father. Syed M Tanvir has
around 40 million pieces of jeans Manufacturers and a mission to strengthen the
annually and exporting to more Exporters Association business further by focusing on
than 50 countries. And it is one (BGMEA). He had been consistency in quality and become
of the leading premium denim awarded the national a world leader in premium jeans
makers. In 1996, Nasir Uddin set export trophy 24 times manufacturing. He joined his family
up Pacific Jeans in Chittagong for his achievement business 10 years back when he
Export Processing Zone with 1,500 in exports and has was only 24.
people. been a commercially
Md. Imran Bin Ishaque, Sr. Manager,
important person (CIP)
From a small garment factory Supply chain, Pacific Jeans Ltd.
for many years. He also
established in 1984, Pacific Jeans said to Textile Today, “He was an
received the prominent
has now been transformed into exceptional leader with immense
Bangabandhu Sheikh
a highest institution for premium forecasting power. He taught me
Mujib Industrial
jeans. everything.”
Award-2020.
Pacific Jeans Limited is the Nasir Uddin leaves behind his wife,
largest denim garment exporter Exporting products to the US and three sons, relatives and a mass of
in Bangladesh with $450 million around 20 countries in Europe in well-wishers to grieve his demise.
annual export from its five units. the last decade, Pacific Jeans has Nasir Uddin will be buried at the
Recently, the company has also focused on unconventional family graveyard in Salimpur under
introduced a knit composite markets in Asia like China, Japan, Sitakunda Upazila of Chattogram
factory to meet the growing Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore. after the namaz-e-janaza there.
demand of active wear in the
In his illustrious carrier, Nasir
global market.

An Innovation Hub

108 Bangladesh Textile Today | March 2022


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TICC, a consortium for textile and apparel manufacturers, plays role as an Innovation scopes:
executive platform. It drives innovations in a systematic approach. TICC i) Resource or cost optimization
capacitates its partners to form a concentrated team to steer innovations. ii) Process standardization
The platform equips the team with the innovation tools, techniques and iii) SOP development
other resources to build a sustainable innovation culture. The consortium iv) Problem solving
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and conferences to make the process effective and sustainable. vi) Sustainability etc.

 House-25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh
 +88 02 55093682, 01775 999 748 |  info@textiletoday.com.bd |  www.textiletoday.com.bd
Quality is
our responsibility
we are always striving to deliver
better products and service

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