Professional Documents
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BTT Emagazine March 2022
BTT Emagazine March 2022
bd
Bangladesh
March 2022
in
Year
An Innovation Hub ISSN 1999-2076
Reg. 8/2012
Is US Dollar
diminishing its
Issue 03 | 114 Pages |
March 2022
ground as a
reserve currency?
Volume 15 |
Russia-Ukraine
More practical steps are
TISSOCYL RC 9
Special detergent for Elastane fabrics
March 2022
BENEFITS
Spontaneous emulsification of silicone oils in an aqueous system
Non-gelling
Low in odour
Biodegradable
Editorial Panel
Editor in Chief
Prof. Md. Monirul Islam
t
Executive Editor
rkeer
Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan
Technical Editor
a
M ad BIOLASE APC
Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman
Le COMBINED ENZYMATIC
SCOURING
Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak)
Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim
Consulting Editor
BIO-POLISHING
Dr. NN Mahapatra
Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz
C.N. Sivaramakrishnan
Ashfaque Ahmed
Save
Eousup Novee
Managing Editor
Akhi Akter
Sub Editor
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
Technical Team
Co-ordinator
Setara Begum
Member
S.N. Abdullah
Amzad Hossain Monir
Printed by:
VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka.
Bangladesh
in
Year
An Innovation Hub ISSN 1999-2076
Reg. 8/2012
On the Cover
Is US Dollar
diminishing its
Issue 03 | 114 Pages |
ground as a
reserve currency?
An Innovation Hub
Volume 15 |
Content
Russia-Ukraine
More practical steps are
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Editorial
An Innovation Hub
Is US Dollar
diminishing
its ground
as a reserve
currency?
Md. Eousup Novee, Bablu
The US dollar, needless to say, as 62% in the total redeemable and capacity of global influence
is an international medium of reserve of the global currencies. have a critical correlation that one
exchange in trade and commerce Comparing to other currencies, enforces another to grow or fall
to a great extent. After World War- the USD reserve stands close to with. Acknowledged, there must
2, it becomes the most powerful 60% now in the central banks of be some other interconnecting
global currency officially termed countries over the world. Central factors with the global influence.
as the reserve currency or vehicle banks have to hold reserve
• Scope out
currency. The ground, dominance currency for meeting liquidity
and confidence in the US dollar are demand, exchanging their Though quite relevant and, the
significantly diminishing – what is own currency for international components are intertwined,
going to happen to the exporting transactions, and diversifying yet - the writer will refrain from
or importing countries? portfolios to avert gloomy the discussion of the ideologies,
economic times. civilizations, and their systems
With time evolve, many global
(state, politics & culture). A slight
currencies dried and many of them Scope of the write-up
comparative dynamics would be
even died due to a shortfall of
In history, at least for the last 600 seemingly apparent as requires
political and economic relevance
hundred years, once the dominant showing the rise and fall of a currency.
to the world. In 1900, USD was
currency gets weak, state itself
0% whereas pound sterling stood • Scope in
gets weak or vice versa. Currency
It will present the rise and fall of
the global currency in the existing
Global Reserve financial sub-system of the total
Currencies 1920-
1815-1920 systems. The financial subsystem
USA
1720-1815 UK of an economic system plays
1642-1720 FRANCE
Relative Strength of 6 empires
An Innovation Hub
in 1914 with the establishment of Figure 3: The Federal Reserve Bank’s Balance Sheet.
An Innovation Hub
An Innovation Hub
SAFE
®
CASE STUDY: Indonesia customer, Jet dyeing machine, 100% cotton knit, LR 6:1
EFFICIENT
Faruque Hassan
President of the Bangladesh
Garment Manufacturers and
Exporters Association (BGMEA)
Russia-Ukraine war has a nearly 2% of its export items to Impact of the war on BD’s apparel
catastrophic effect on people Russia, mostly apparel goods. The sector
life and economy of the country sent garment items worth
Russia and Ukraine-bound
both countries. In the era of $415.47 million to Russia in the
garments exports are now facing
globalization, impact of any July-January period of the current
challenges as shipping lines are
war does not get stuck only the fiscal year, registering a 36.47
not willing to carry goods to the
conflicting nations rather the per cent year-on-year growth,
war zones.
impact spreads all over the world. according to Export Promotion
The impact of the Russia-Ukraine Bureau (EPB) data. In the 2021 Main container shipping
war has been felt in many areas, period Bangladesh exported companies have temporarily
including fuel, oil and gas. It has $687.81 million worth of apparel in suspended accepting bookings
also affected the global fashion the Russian market experienced to both countries since Russia-
industry. As a major supplier of 45.25% year-on-year growth in Ukraine war started on February
fashion items, Bangladesh is facing 2021 while in FY 2020, Bangladesh 24.
different challenges to continue its exported $593.66 million worth of Western nations announced a
business with these two conflicting apparel items to Russia. harsh set of sanctions to penalize
countries. Russia for starting the war against
Since the Bangladesh government
Textile Today explored the issue to started giving an additional 4% Ukraine. Also, they have blocked
figure out the impact and overall cash incentive on non-traditional some banks from the SWIFT
bilateral trade between Russia and markets in FY 2009-10 – the (Society for Worldwide Interbank
Bangladesh. We found that this Russian market has been growing Financial Telecommunication)
recent international event comes quite impressively. The EPB data international payments system.
as a major challenge after the also showed for the last 5 years SWIFT is the global financial artery
covid-19 pandemic which severely the apparel export in the Russian which allows the smooth and rapid
impacted the apparel industry of market has been steadily rising. transfer of money across borders.
Bangladesh. The punishments mark the core
On the other hand, in the Ukraine
Garments trade overview among market, Bangladesh exported of the Russian financial system
Bangladesh, Ukraine and Russia $31.78 million worth of textile, and this creates a headache for
apparel items in July-January of Bangladesh’s bilateral trade and
Bilateral trade with Russia was
FY 2021-22 Period, according to especially the readymade garment
US$1.14 billion in the last fiscal
EPB data. (RMG) export in Russia.
year (FY21). Bangladesh exported
An Innovation Hub
Russian lenders have been Bangladesh's last 5 years apparel export data in Russia
excluded from the SWIFT (In $mn) Source: EPB & compiled by: RDTI Cell, BGMEA
messaging system which creates
an uncertainty to continue trade 800
687.81
with Russia. 700
A top official of a reputed garment 600
factory of Bangladesh said that 482.43 473.54
500 466.7
they are facing trouble to get their 402.77
payment form Russian buyers. The 400
buyers are canceling orders also. 300
On the other hand, fashion brands
200
like H&M, Nike, and Puma have
altered their operations in Russia. 100
So, naturally the apparel export 0
from Bangladesh to Russia has Year 2017 Year 2018 Year 2019 Year 2020 Year 2021
declined and it will be continuing.
“
As Ukraine is suffering a lot for the in the scenario. There are other
war, so that Ukrainian buyers will ways of payment.”
also not take any cloths from any
“We are working with our Russian
country until the situation gets We are working with
buyers. They will work with
cool down. our Russian buyers.
alternative way. Thus we will be
They will work with
How Bangladesh garments able to continue our apparel
alternative way. Thus
industry responding export to Russian market.”
we will be able to
Faruque Hassan, President continue our apparel There are numerous international
of the Bangladesh Garment export to Russian banks operating in Russia.
Manufacturers and Exporters market.” Bangladeshi apparel exporters can
Association (BGMEA) said, operate their transaction through
“We have already directed our these international banks.
members to stop shipments of
“As for apparel shipment
garment items to Russia as the
challenges to Russian market – as
war is going on there and for the
some western carrier companies
potential ban on the SWIFT use.”
said they will halt goods export to
"We are worried about the Russian Russia – this will also be resolved
and Ukrainian markets. Uncertainty Engr. Harun- Or-Rashid soon. It is not a blanket ban by
has been created in the payment General Manager
all global carrier companies. As it
(responsible of Russian buyers)
and shipment following the is a very latest development, we
Renaissance Designs Limited
outbreak of the war," Faruque exporters and apparel makers will
Hassan added. find a way to send Bangladeshi
"We are not getting work orders
The BGMEA has instructed its apparel goods lying in ports to
from Russian buyers since the
members not to accept any new Russia,” Engr. Harun told.
western nation agreed to ban
work orders from Russia to avoid some Russian banks from using Currently we are manufacturing
any hassles in payments. the SWIFT system. It will create a products for Russian buyers. If
"Russian buyers should clear major barrier for us in the Russian the two issues (payment and
payments as soon as possible markets," Hatem added. shipment) are resolved, then
so that they do not fall into Bangladeshi RMG makers have
Alternative to SWIFT
any uncertainty in the time of nothing to worry.
Engr. Harun- Or-Rashid, General
Covid-19," Hassan said. “I will urge the leaders of BGMEA
Manager (responsible of Russian
Mohammad Hatem, Executive to give more responsible and
buyers), Renaissance Designs
President of the Bangladesh careful statements regarding
Limited, said to Textile Today,
Knitwear Manufacturers and getting the payment from
“First of all, to get payment – we
Exporters Association, said they Russian market. As these types of
all need to understand that SWIFT
are worried about the payment statements will lead to panic. Our
is not the only way of payment –
problem due to the uncertainty leaders should sit with Russian
as the global economy was not
over the use of SWIFT in Russia. and Bangladesh central banks and
stop when SWIFT was not present
discuss a way out,” he concluded.
An Innovation Hub
With a view to retain present and Bangladesh Garment Currently, exporters enjoy 4% cash
export growth momentum and Accessories and Packaging incentives against non-traditional
fully recover from the Covid-19 Manufacturers and Exporters markets, while 1% in all markets.
pandemic, country's apparel Association (BGAPMEA) made the In addition to this, BGMEA
and textile manufacturers want call in their budget proposal for the demanded Value Added Tax (VAT)
continuation of existing rates financial year 2022-23 placed to the withdrawal on raw materials or
including corporate and source National Board of Revenue (NBR). services collected through local
Taxes and exemption of import sources and used for export-
BGMEA's proposal for Budget FY23
duty on manmade fiber in the next oriented goods.
budget for the fiscal year 2022-23. The platform of the readymade
garment (RMG) exporters called Textile millers want VAT cut on all
Meanwhile, garment accessories kinds of yarn
for continuation of existing
and packaging products
corporate Tax and source Tax for Bangladesh Textile Mills
manufacturers demanded withdrawal
the next five years to overcome Association (BTMA), the platform
of corporate Tax for next three year
Covid-19 induced shocks as well as of the country's textile millers,
to recover from the Covid-19 fallout.
retain the present growth trend. urged the NBR to set VAT on all
Bangladesh Garment kinds of yarn regardless of fiber
Currently, apparel exporters have
Manufacturers and Exporters at Tk3 per kilogram in the next
to pay 0.5% source Tax and 12
Association (BGMEA), Bangladesh national budget for fiscal year
percent corporate Tax, which is
Textile Mills Association (BTMA) 2022-23.
10% for the green factory owners.
An Innovation Hub
Under the existing rules, a miller the BTMA leader in the budget
has to pay Tk6 as VAT for a proposal. BGMEA
kilogram yarn made of manmade
Currently, the sector has to pay
fiber and other fiber. ontinuation of existing
C
26.2% to 104.68% import duty on
corporate Tax & source
"Demands of goods made of spare parts used in textile mills.
Tax for 5 years
manmade fiber and recycled fiber However, they have to pay 1% duty
is growing very fast. It is becoming on import of capital machinery. ithdrawal of 10% income
W
more popular to consumers due to its Tax on cash incentives
Accessories makers want
comfort, fanciness, and comparatively AT withdrawal on raw
V
exemption of corporate Tax
reasonable price," Mohammad Ali materials
Khokon, president of BTMA said. In bid to recover from the Covid-19
fallout, garment accessories and
Taking the issue into consideration
packaging products manufacturers
as a part of the government's
priority of product diversification,
demanded the government to BTMA
withdraw corporate Tax for the
the NBR should set VAT at Tk3 on k3 per kg VAT on all
T
next three year in the next fiscal
yarn made of manmade fiber and kinds of yarn
year 2022-23.
recycled fiber, said Ali.
The deemed exporters also called ithdrawal of 15% VAT
W
It also called to withdraw 15% & 5% advanced Tax on
for reducing Tax at source to 0.25
VAT and 5 percent advanced pet chips
percent from 0.50% and fix it for
Tax on pet chips (textile grade),
next three years as final Tax. eeping source Tax at
K
therapeutic acid, and ethylene glycol.
Apparel accessories makers have 0.5%
Besides, the organization also
to pay 32.5% corporate Tax and ithdrawal of 2% Tax on
W
urged the government to keep Tax
0.50% Tax at source. locally purchased cotton
at source at 0.5% and treat it as
final settlement. In our apparel exports, garment I ncreasing cotton waste
accessories played an important to 17% & 30%
On top of that, BTMA demanded
role in export earnings. It is an
withdrawal of 2 percent Tax on eeping 15% income Tax
K
integral part of the sector and
cotton purchase from local sources. till 2026
it is procured through back to
It also asked to increase the waste back letter of credit (LC). Due to uty & Tax free imports
D
of cotton from 10 percent and the supply chain disruption, the of fiber
12 percent to 17 percent and 30 prices of raw materials rose by I mposing 1% duty on
percent to produce carded and up to 800%," Mohamad Moazzem spare parts imports
combed yarn. Hossain Moti BGAPMEA president,
said in the budget proposal.
The platform of the primary textile
sector also demanded to keep the
income Tax for the sector at 15%
But the global retailers and brands
did not increase the prices of
BGAPMEA
till 2026. goods, which led manufacturers to ithdrawal of corporate
W
incur losses, said Moti. Tax for next 3 years
On the other hand, investment is
encouraged in the manmade fiber In the given context, it is difficult educing source Tax to
R
by the apparel makers due to rise for the manufacturers to pay 0.50 0.25% for next 3 years
in demands of these products, percent Tax at source as well as
said the proposal. 32.5 percent corporate Tax, said
Figure: FY23 budget demand of
the business leader.
So, to encourage long term BGMEA, BTMA and BGAPMEA.
investment, the government As policy support to help earned $7 billion through deemed
should increase the deadline of recovery from the pandemic, the export of garment accessories and
the existing income Tax rate till government should reduce Tax packaging goods.
2026, it added. at source to 0.25 percent and
withdraw corporate Tax for next Out of this amount, nearly $1
Meanwhile, BTMA wants duty and billion is exported directly to
three years, said Moti.
Tax free imports of fiber including Turkey, Netherlands, South Africa,
recycled fiber used in spin Meanwhile, the accessories makers Pakistan, India, Middle East,
manufacturing. also called for cash incentives Ethiopia, Indonesia, Italy, Sri Lanka,
against the deemed exports of Turkmenistan, Germany, Austria
As there is no scope of misuse, the
accessories products. etc. Investment of this sector is
textile millers called for imposing
1% duty on imports of spare According to BGAPMEA, in the about Tk35000 crore and value
parts for the next budget, said fiscal year 2020-21 the sector addition is about 40%.
An Innovation Hub
“
It’s sad and disappointing
that till now the major
greenhouse gas-emitting
countries have failed to
deliver their promised
annual amount of US$100
billion dollars”
Infrastructure and
Logistics sectors of
Bangladesh: Neglected
issues (Part 2)
Md. Kamrul Bari MIPA AFA & Enamul Hafiz Latifee
“
and circular economy Bank- International Bank for
Reconstruction and Development
Apart from these fundamental (IBRD) and International
concerns of the infrastructure Delay and deceptions of Development Association (IDA)
sector, building a climate-resilient the developed countries will also seek to ensure that 50%
infrastructure is also among the in climate financing of this financing will support
major concerns of the country. are pushing the whole adaptation and resilience.
‘Circular Economy’ is the future world, including
and only survival way-out for the Bangladesh, towards It is, however, important to
humans, of which, climate resilient disaster risks” remember that the leaders of
and sustainable infrastructure is some of the largest carbon
a key component. Besides, due emitters are always trying to
to growing awareness among strategically avoid or, intentionally
world leaders, climate funds are delay in either committing to or,
gradually becoming accessible. fulfilling their promises causing
The World Bank Group has frustration among the people of
announced that over the next Dr. Hasan Mahmud the world, especially the citizens
five years, 35% of the Bank Information and of the developing and the least
Group’s financing, on average, Broadcasting Minister developed countries who are
will go to supporting climate heavily affected by the adverse
An Innovation Hub
An Innovation Hub
generation techniques, research on lower the logistics cost by 7 to Training in the mainstream has
the construction of self-sufficient 35% depending on the sector. caused potential employees to
and energy-efficient green Congestion also causes around remain semiskilled and in many
factories and offices, altering 60% of the annual carbon dioxide cases unskilled and unprepared for
curricula to include and promote (CO2) emissions, social costs of taking up the challenges of real life.
climate awareness, and research which are estimated to be 1.2% of GDP.
also fall under broader aspects We, therefore, suggest that the
of climate-related infrastructural High dwell times (the amount of Government of Bangladesh looks
and Climate-Resilient ecosystems time that cargo or ships spend deeper into the aforementioned
issues needing immediate within a port) increase the logistics issues to take integrated policy
attention of the government of the costs even further. Average dwell measures for ensuring complete
country. times at the Chittagong Port are 4 elimination of all infrastructural,
days for an export container and logistics, and their supporting
Bangladesh’s performance in the 11 days for an import container. sectors’ developmental
world ranking Sectoral policies, such as the impediments in order to help
Customs policies that limit inland accelerate balanced economic
Logistics is another key area containerization and allow only 37 growth of the country for turning
of concern for the country. commodities to be cleared outside us into a developed nation by 2041.
Bangladesh has moved down to the port, cause further logistical
the 100th position in the World inefficiencies in terms of both time
Bank’s Logistics Performance and money (The World Bank). The authors:
Index (LPI) in 2018 from an earlier Companies are not allowed to
82nd position in 2016. A closer open container freight stations at
look into the index indicates that locations far from the Chittagong
the country fared well in terms of Port, and empty containers are
tracking and tracing and timing treated as bonded goods. These
when compared with Pakistan. policies have led to an increase
If compared against Sri Lanka, in the number of vehicles on the
Bangladesh beats Sri Lanka in roads and have also increased
terms of International Shipments, congestion inside the Chittagong
tracking and tracing, and timing. Port, leading to further inefficient
However, when compared port operation. However, most of Md. Kamrul Bari MIPA AFA is a
against India and Vietnam, we these challenges also open doors qualified accountant and also a
are nowhere. The performance for foreign investments in the doctoral researcher at the IBA,
of the customs of Bangladesh is country’s logistics sector. However, University of Dhaka and Deputy
the lowest among other regional the need for policy reforms cannot Editor-in-Chief at the International
economies such as India, Sri Lanka, be overlooked either. Journal of Management and
Pakistan, and Vietnam. Accounting (IJMA). He can be
What is next? reached at bari.sarkar@gmail.com.
Moreover, RMG factories, the
largest exporters of the country, To address the needs of identifying
often report inefficient logistics as and implementing solutions to the
a significant share of their logistics aforesaid issues, we should must
costs. The same is true for other have a pool of talented, efficient,
sectors as well. Road transport skilled, and entrepreneurial
rates of the country range from employees and researchers. The
US$0.06 for a 16-ton truck to country’s education system has
US$0.12 for a trailer (in per ton, the most important role to play
per kilometer terms). It is higher in this regard. Unfortunately,
than most countries causing a the lack of quality education in Enamul Hafiz Latifee is a
significant constraint to export. academia led by the scarcity of Policy & Trade Economist, Joint
Studies show that the inventory skilled and experienced teachers, Secretary (Research Fellow),
carrying costs of the country is lack of appropriate training and Bangladesh Association of
US$21 (in per ton, per kilometer ineffective education policy along Software and Information
terms), which is also higher than with the social stigma of sending Services (BASIS). He can be
most countries of the world. kids to technical education and reached at ehlatifee@gmail.com
Traffic congestion on the roads inadequate policy supports to and viewed at
is another significant concern. promote and integrate Technical www.ehlatifee.com.
Removal of congestion alone can and Vocational Education and
An Innovation Hub
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Surface Science is
our core technology
having more than
80 years history in
chemicals from
Japan
finish
first
1 scour soap 3
dye
2
Exclusive Interview
excellent job.
With the adaption of industry
4.0, the textile industry is moving
forward at a breakneck speed and
daily adapting to new technology
and techniques to keep up with
the pace. We still feel a gap and
lack our students in exposure to
the industry.
Although our fourth-year students
go to factories for 2 months of
internships – but this is not enough
to grasp the vast development
taking place in the textile industry.
Similarly, the textile and apparel
(T&A) industry can be benefited
from our Ph.D. holder teachers
in terms of solving technical
challenges that happen during
production. So, we need to
Figure 2: ASM Tareq Amin, CEO; Sanjoy Saha, Sr. Manager (Industry
Engagement & Sub-Editor), Textile Today with Prof. Md. Abul Kashem. increase correspondence between
BUTEX and the industry.
“
Prime Minister, Sheikh Hasina Textile Today: Are there any
has upgraded this legendary practical steps taken to increase
educational institute as a connectivity between BUTEX and
university. Which enables higher The main catalyst for the industry?
R&D in the textile and jute sector transformation was highly
capable teachers and it needs Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: The
in the country. Creating efficient
considerable time. Back progress is not satisfactory at
and capable textile engineers
then we had only a handful all. Our doors are always open
for the textile industry – who
number of teachers. BUTEX for industry engagement. For
are enabling to cater the textile
took the initiative and created instance, BUTEX provides a testing
industry’s various challenges like
new teaching posts. We also service. Compared to private
process/product development,
sent our teachers abroad for firms’ lab testing fees are next
diversification, technical issues, etc.
higher degrees like Ph.D. to nothing. Our textile factories
Having said that, the main catalyst The university has been should come here and avail the
for transformation was highly providing adequate funding service more.
capable teachers and it needs for research. In addition, we Besides, for executive efficiency
considerable time. Back then we are progressively increasing development, we have a center
had only a handful number of the amount that will bolster called Executive Development
teachers. BUTEX took the initiative the research capability of both Center (EDC) – where we are
and created new teaching posts. teachers and students." providing a free 10-month long
We also sent our teachers abroad
Prof. Md. Abul Kashem
training program for mid-level
for higher degrees like Ph.D. The
Vice-Chancellor, BUTEX. management.
university has been providing
adequate funding for research. From an academic perspective,
In addition, we are progressively in our council, planning and
academic building. Where we will
increasing the amount that will development council and in
be able to provide higher R&D and
bolster the research capability of various academic committees – we
lab facilities for more sophisticated
both teachers and students. have members from organizations
textile studies. Which will enable
like BGMEA, BTMA, BKMEA, etc.
As for the academic perspective, BUTEX students to cater more
to increase their participation with
from this year BUTEX will offer a sophisticated challenges of the
BUTEX.
regular Master's degree program, textile industry.
as well as, a Ph.D. program. This As I said above, we have
On a bird's eye view, as a
will be a jewel in the crown of BUTEX. strengthened our research
torchbearer university in
capability, and one aspect of
Also, note that very recently Bangladesh – in making textile
that is BUTEX is encouraging its
BUTEX inaugurated a 15 storied graduates – BUTEX is doing an
faculty members to conduct their
An Innovation Hub
research in collaboration with And you have stressed the need the Ministry of Textiles and Jute –
the industry. Thus our teachers for product diversification, the Dept. of Textiles is operating 8
will gain firsthand experience innovation in the textile sector as textile engineering colleges. Where
in solving day-to-day industry the way forward. Kindly elaborate these colleges are providing B.Sc.
problems and students will gain your opinion regarding the future in Textile Engineering certificate
that experience from them. paradigm shift of our textile programs.
industry.
Textile Today: As you rightly BUTEX is providing academic
highlighted regarding research, Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: As an affiliation to these colleges. As
kindly share with us in which academician, I see that the future well, we are also looking after
sector should we prioritize while paradigm shift lies in developing in the examination and certification
conducting any research? the textile sector. For instance, we of these 8 textile engineering
are importing almost all the textile colleges.
Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: At the
dyes and chemicals. The same
moment, the industry is mainly On top of it, to produce quality
goes for textile machinery design
focusing on export-oriented diploma engineers the Dept. of
and maintenance. This capability
products and sectors. But there is Textiles have textile institutes.
development will be a game-
a huge opportunity in the primary Besides, to create skilled
changer in our textile industry.
“
textile sector in terms of high-end manpower in the textile industry –
fiber development for making the govt. opened textile vocational
value-added apparel. Similarly, institutes.
in all types of raw material and
BUTEX opened two new Meaning, the infrastructure is there
material development research is
departments. One is Dyes and the textile education sector is
the need of the hour.
& Chemical Engineering getting more and more focus to
In BUTEX’s perspective, we are Department. The graduates cater to the increasing progress.
highly focusing on research on will play a critical role in Also, there are almost 20 private
textile raw material – also in fabrics making dyes and chemicals in universities who have textile
development and other sectors. near future. On the machinery departments.
Also, we are procuring textile raw side, we have opened a new Textile Today: Kindly share us the
material related equipment. department called Machinery quality of these textile vocational
Textile Today: As for fiber Design & Maintenance institutes.
research, we know that Department.
Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: Quality is
Bangladesh is dependent on
Prof. Md. Abul Kashem a continuous process, especially in
imported cotton. Whereas, jute is
Vice-Chancellor, BUTEX. the education sector. Not only in
the homegrown fiber and BUTEX
BUTEX, we continuously suggest
used to have two departments i.e.
and guide the Dept. of Textiles
cotton and jute. Over the years
regarding the building of quality of
jute study and research have been To bridge the gap – BUTEX teachers in the 8 affiliated textile
neglected. So, what is BUTEX’s opened two new departments. colleges. As, it is apparent that
viewpoint regarding jute? One is Dyes & Chemical these institutes do not have up to
Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: Yes, this Engineering Department. The the mark faculty – needed to cater
is a pathetic reality that over graduates will play a critical role in to the top-notch textile sector.
the years – along with the jute making dyes and chemicals in near And I want to re-emphasize the
sector’s decline, jute study and future. On the machinery side, we Dept. of Textiles – also in private
research has been ignored too. have opened a new department universities – on having quality
Students have lost interest in jute called Machinery Design & teachers this is a must everywhere.
study. To revive from this, we have Maintenance Department.
Textile Today: Kindly share us the
taken a new initiative to open a Textile Today: As you have impact of COVID-19 in education.
separate department for jute. At depicted the prominence of
the moment, we are finalizing the Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: It has
education in the T&A industry.
curriculum and syllabus. We are greatly hampered our education,
How do you see Bangladesh’s
going to do an awareness-building no doubt about that. Although,
overall textile education?
seminar where jute experts will through the online classes we have
Prof. Md. Abul Kashem: Yes, tried to cover the theoretical part.
be present. We hope that this
textile education is the artery of And now covering the practical
initiative will create fresh and
the Bangladesh T&A industry. The part when the pandemic lockdown
capable graduates for the sector.
Bangladesh govt. is also gave was relaxed a bit. However, we
Textile Today: Bangladesh’s textile prioritized the textile education need at least around 2 years to
and apparel industry is now 40 and took various initiatives. Under recover from session jams.
years old and it is quite mature.
An Innovation Hub
Future
leaders-
future skills-
2025! (Part ii)
Engr. Anisul Hoque Ansari
Introduction: While discussing about the future daily for thyself only, secondly balance work and
leadership in the changed world, we had discussed personal life. Third, focus on accepting events,
few topics in first phase which were as below- people and environments those brings peace in mind
and help to learn certain positive things.
Trends of retail business in EU/US and other
buying territories in last 10 years To embrace Qs, we may invest time on listening
learning videos, reading books and getting involved
Impact on the manufacturing hubs in SEA/SA market
with same minded peoples around. For example-
(Who are the major competitors for BD RMG)
A. To embrace Intelligence Quotient (IQ): This is
Who are the future leaders in RMG manufacturing
the measure of your comprehension ability", solve
business?
math; memorize things and recall subject matters.
In ‘Why re skilling is needed and steps for re We may keep asking why, why and why before doing
skilling’ - part we discussed Step-01: Mind Your Qs any task every day. It will lead us to find reasons
(Understanding IQ, EQ, SQ and AQ). and goals of doing any task and measure them with
numbers, analyze results and find improvement
There are four types of intelligence
points consequently. With this quotient, people
become successful in managing big projects, difficult
tasks.
Intelligence Emotional B. To embrace Emotional Quotient (EQ): This
quotient (IQ) quotient (EQ)
is the measure of your ability to maintain peace
with others; to keep time; be responsible; be
honest; respect boundaries; be humble, genuine
and considerate. We must adapt few basics in our
Social Adversity
quotient (SQ) quotient (AQ) personal life, being honest & humble, listen more
than talk, being helpful to others & practicing a
An Innovation Hub
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GOTs LEVEL 3
VERSION 6.0
HEAD OFFICE :
101/102, Balashram Society, Tejpal Scheme Road No. 3, Vile Parle (E), Mumbai - 400 057. INDIA.
BANGLADESH OFFICE:
3rd Floor, House No.37, GauselAzam venue, Sect ara, Dhaka -1230
Contact: apnaorganics@outlook.com / info@apnaorganics.in
www.apnaorganics.in
Opinion
punctual life style. While we calibrate ourselves understanding things under our own comfort zones.
with above basics, our deliveries to others will be Thus first thing first is unlearning. This is the toughest
focused, passionate, simple and attractive, will learn phase and only this can help us to set a learning
to respect boundaries and most importantly we will mindset for re skilling. For this unlearning phase,
be able to accomplish any difficult task with peace in we need to challenge our emotional states and
mind. expectation levels lot with enormous efforts to break
ourselves, to break our ego and to stay low profile
C. To embrace Social Quotient (SQ): This is the
despite of having a glorious lifestyle already. This
measure of our ability to build a network of friends
unlearning phase may include the way we handle our
and maintain it over a long period of time. To
food and sleep cycles, leisure times, organizational
embrace this, we must be a giver, a good listener
behavior, friend’s lists and many more. It takes a lot
and proactive to make friends with same minded
of passion and long term visionary goals to break the
people. Your EQ represents your character; your SQ
ego in pieces and modify it into a soft clay. Only then
represents your charisma. Give in to habits that will
we will be ready to be re skilled.
improve these three Qs but more especially your EQ
and SQ. EQ and SQ make one manage better than The dynamics of global manufacturing are shifting.
the other. Usually great leaders have higher EQ & SQ, In this environment, manufacturing companies are
while many professionals with higher IQ work under rethinking their location strategies and not simply
those leaders with lower IQ but higher EQ & SQ. following the path of lowest wages. Rock-bottom
wages matter a lot in some segments, such as
D. To embrace Adversity Quotient (AQ): The
garment manufacturing, but in most manufacturing
measure of your ability to go through a rough patch
industries, hourly labor is less than 20% of costs. A
in life and come out without losing your mind. AQ
bigger challenge for many manufacturers is access
determines who will give up in face of troubles and
to high-skill talent, both for the shop floor and for a
may abandon their families.
growing number of service-like occupations within
In the current context of Corona, many professionally manufacturing.
successful people are going thru bouts of
It is important to remember that manufacturing is
Depression. Because they haven't seen and thus are
not monolithic and that there is a wide range of
unprepared for Adversity. To embrace this quotient,
manufacturing industries — from the very labor-
we have to control our emotions from over flowing
intensive and resource/energy-intensive to the very
in any circumstances, manage our expectations and
R&D intensive.
adapt simple living. It is the most important quotient
as it determines our EGO state and gives us a Advanced economies run a $726 billion surplus in
wakeup call get rid of that and improve our resilience such goods, against a $342 billion deficit in labor-
and calibration ability. intensive goods. When we look at the needs of
different manufacturing industries and the sources of
Step-3: Practical barriers to Re skilling and possible
growth in manufacturing demand, we see that while
solutions
"re-shoring" — shifting some jobs back to wealthy
During a matured age it’s very difficult to embrace nations — is a welcome development that may help
the re skilling as we already had an ego state of restore some of the huge losses that manufacturing
suffered in the past decade, it is unlikely to reverse
the long-term trend in manufacturing employment.
Let us refresh our memories with the legendary
statement by Paulo Coelho:
At the end of this two
phases of write up, I
MQ
Moral-ethical intelligence
Moral values and vision,
responsible for decision convey my courtesy
making
to World Economic
Creating new ideas products, forum, Harvard
CQ INQ novel solutions, discovering
Business School.
Creative
intelligence
+ Innovative
intelligence
and/or combining methods
in the new ways
Managing mutual
SQ EQ Author:
Social
intelligence
+ Emotional
intelligence
relationships and controlling
own emotions
IQ
Intellectual/mental intelligence
Mathematical, logical and
verbal intelligence
An Innovation Hub
Bangladesh apparel export earnings achieved new Bangladesh apparel & textile export amount in July
milestone in July to February of FY2021-22. to Feb of FY2021-22 (In $bn) Source: EPB
30 27.49
According to data from the Export Promotion
Bureau (EPB), apparel exports earned $27.49 billion 25
between July to February of FY2021-22. Growing 20
by 30.73% in the first 8 months of the current fiscal. 15.06
15 12.42
Which was $21.03 billion in the same period last FY.
10
Among the readymade garment (RMG) export
knitwear sector export earnings fetched $15.06 5
0.99
billion, growing by 32.87% year-on-year. 0.019
0
RMG Knitwear Woven Home Special woven
While woven products export earned $12.42 billion, growing textile & knitted fabric
by 28.23% year-on-year in the July-February period.
"Rather, we have asked the EU for an extension on
Faruque Hassan, President of Bangladesh Garment the tariff benefits for Bangladesh even after the
Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) country's LDC graduation. We got a favorable reply
said, "We are hopeful that the buoyance in garment from the EU. Our Asian markets are also showing
exports will continue to grow as we have already great promise for garment items," he added.
booked an increased volume of work orders from
Apart from RMG exports other textile and apparel
international retailers and brands,".
categories also achieved significant mileage in terms
“From BGMEA, we are taking our campaign to push of export growth.
apparel diplomacy forward. And in the last few
In July-February of FY2021-22, home textile exports
months, the BGMEA team visited North America
earned $0.99 billion. Witnessing 35.98% growth.
and Europe as part of apparel diplomacy,” Faruque
Hassan added. While terry towel exports earned $31.28 million.
Witnessing a 19.39% growth.
BGMEA President said, “Last week me and my
colleagues from BGMEA Board visited Brussels and Special woven fabric exports earned $21.80 million.
Geneva as a continuation of this initiative. In this visit, we Witnessing a mammoth 55.49% growth year-on-year.
met with the Director-General of WTO and the Director-
Knitted fabrics exports earned $169.78 million.
General of ILO in their respective offices in Geneva.”
Witnessing a staggering 299.67% growth year-on-year.
“We are also trying to increase the prices from our buyers.
Also, manmade filaments & staple fibers exports
No buyers asked anything regarding the European markets
earned $155.23 million. Witnessing 99.76% growth in
as the business is continuing as usual," Hassan said.
the first 8 months of the current fiscal.
Pakistan's textile & apparel exports earnings grow 24.73% in last seven months
Sohel Ahmed
Pakistan's textile & apparel exports witnessed a According to data from Pakistan Bureau of Statistics,
massive 24.73% year-on-year growth in July-January during the period, Pakistan earned $10.933 billion
of FY2021-22. from textile and apparel exports, compared to $8.765
billion in July-January 2020-21.
Pakistan's textile & apparel exports amount in July-Jan of FY2021-22
(In $bn) Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics
12 Among the exports, knitwear segment exports
10.93
witnessed 32.76% year-on-year growth to $2.887
10
billion during the July-January of FY2021-22.
8
While exports of non-knit garments were up 21.98%
6 to $2.163 billion.
An Innovation Hub
With the organIQ BLEACH system family were developed on the advancement. The next generation
the CHT Group was the first textile highest ecological level. The of organIQ is a big step in the
chemical supplier, who offered an different bleaching agents are right direction towards sustainable
ecological alternative to potassium purely organic and completely Jeans production”, says Thomas
permanganate as a bleaching biodegradable. Aplas, Head of Application Field
treatment for Denim. Today, CHT's Garment at the CHT Group.
Jeans finishing in a nutshell
organIQ products reach beyond
Different environmental benefits
the limits of the standards and are • A common Jeans treatment
state of the art in ecological jeans involves the use of Potassium The new EMS Jeans family
production worldwide. Permanganate, Chlorine and supports most modern denim
Pumice Stones. finishing processes. By using
In recent years, CHT has continued
selected organIQ products
to research and further develop • Permanganate has a highly toxic
together with water saving
the organIQ system step by impact to wastewater and is
nebulization technologies,
step. The mission was to find classified as CMR substance.
extremely low water consumptions
enhancements to the organIQ • Chlorine gives a high pollution can be achieved.
range that further optimise the to the wastewater.
system from an ecological point of Due to this technology, all relevant
• Both substances require separate treatments can be realized at
view and at the same time provide
neutralization steps for which room temperature which is a
even more variable and broader
additional, critical chemicals are great energy saving opportunity.
application possibilities.
needed in most of the cases. Moreover, the pollution of
wastewater with toxic substances
can be drastically reduced in
comparison to common, previously
applied denim treatments.
What does “Modular System”
stand for?
organIQ EMS Jeans is based on
several modules and every module
corresponds to a treatment step.
These steps can be mixed and
matched in various ways and
flexible orders to achieve a great
deal of looks and effects. This
Figure: With the organIQ BLEACH system the CHT Group was the first textile chemical variety of combinations leads
supplier, who offered an ecological alternative to potassium permanganate as a to almost unlimited possibilities
bleaching treatment for Denim. Courtesy: Jacob Rank, unsplash.com
to achieve any desired finish. Of
With organIQ EMS Jeans we course, realised on the highest
• Pumice Stones are no unlimited
have created a variable solution ecological level.
resource and are creating huge
offering that provides almost
amounts of slush in the wastewater. organIQ EMS System
infinite possibilities for state-of-
demonstrates perfectly, that
the-art jeans finishing. With this organIQ EMS Jeans by CHT
there is never a standstill of
now launched next generation, allows for the realization of almost
development within CHT’s
CHT’s organIQ family becomes every denim finish without all these
Smart Chemistry with Character
a real modular system. We call it questionable substances or resources.
approach. The offer will continue
organIQ EMS Jeans, which means “From our point of view, it should to grow, and by working out new
Ecological Modular System for be a general and common aim ideas in the future it will become
Jeans treatment. of all market players, to replace even more extensive and useful.
Of course, “Ecology” is the critical and harmful chemicals in
Discover more on www.cht.com/
crucial attribute and the essential the whole denim industry. The
organiq
commonality of all components. CHT Group can and will play a
All products of the organIQ leading role in this ecological
An Innovation Hub
Supply chain disruptions and rising stores for pickup. These fulfillment
demand have made fulfillment centers may be states away from
much more difficult for big box the customer or store.
stores. Now, some retailers are
Recently, businesses have been
turning to microfulfillment to
forced to expand their fulfillment
get products to customers. This
capacities in response to the
new fulfillment strategy brings
pandemic and changing consumer
fulfillment work and infrastructure
needs. In addition to buying
closer to retail locations.
more, customers are also buying
While microfulfillment can require differently – often shopping online
significant changes to in-store and taking advantage of fulfillment
layout or big investments in options like in-store pickup.
new fulfillment centers, it could
Instead of expanding centralized
become necessary if supply chain
fulfillment centers, some
shortages continue to linger.
businesses are adopting a
microfulfillment strategy –
distributing fulfillment and, in Figure 2: Fulfillment strategies are
some cases, integrating it directly centralized, meaning large fulfillment hubs
receive online orders, pack them, and ship
in stores. them directly to customers or local stores
for pickup. Courtesy: Collected
The strategy allows businesses
to take advantage of warehouse-
or work with a provider of third-
based logistics, which often
party logistics (3PL) that can
leverages automation and
manage its fulfillment centers.
other technologies to maximize
efficiency while bringing logistics How Do Businesses Use
closer to customers. In practice, Microfullfilment?
the benefits of microfulfillment There are two broad approaches
include faster delivery times and to microfulfillment: the in-store model
lower last-mile-delivery costs. and the hub-and-spoke model.
A distributed fulfillment system In-store microfulfillment renovates
can also simplify reverse stores to dedicate some amount of
Figure 1: Supply chain disruptions and logistics for both customers and floor space to an in-house logistics
rising demand have made fulfillment businesses. Managing reverse
much more difficult for big box stores. center. This center will process
Courtesy: Collected logistics can be difficult, especially local online orders and in-store
during peak season, but local pickup orders while also providing
What Is Microfulfillment? fulfillment centers provide logistics support to the store.
customers and businesses with
Most fulfillment strategies are With the hub-and-spoke model,
more options for handling the
centralized, meaning large businesses create local distribution
return of items.
fulfillment hubs receive online centers or “dark stores” not
orders, pack them, and ship them The company may operate its accessible by consumers. These
directly to customers or local microfulfillment operations directly are smaller logistics centers that
An Innovation Hub
An Innovation Hub
MaxChoice Commerce and Technology - the local the best output from the installed machines.”
representative of Adelco Screen Process Ltd. has
Marzan Hossain told, “Our vision is to be the market
recently became a Textile Today Associate (TTA)
leader with our solution and customer satisfaction.
to discover innovation opportunities in Bangladesh
MaxChoice will try its best with the printing
textile and apparel (T&A) industry through Textile
technologies and diversified knowledge in textile
Today Innovation Hub.
printing to carry the industry forward.”
In the signing event Marzan Hossain, CEO, MaxChoice
Tareq Amin said, “We are very happy to have
Commerce and Technology and Tareq Amin, Founder
MaxChoice Commerce and Technology as associates
& CEO, Textile Today signed on behalf of the
of Textile Today Innovation Hub.”
respective companies at MaxChoice Commerce and
Technology office premise on 1st March. “I believe this association will bring innovative STB
projects in screen printing areas which have become
This collaboration among MaxChoice Commerce and
more popular nowadays. The outcome of the project
Technology and Textile Today will achieve innovation
will help the industries to unearth the effective ways
in the T&A industry. And advance with a number of
to go forward with best possible technologies,” Tareq
innovative projects with the Textile Today Innovation
Amin added.
Hub.
Since 2007, Max Choice is one of the leading textile
Marzan Hossain said, “Our partner principle Adelco
process solution providers in Bangladesh. And
are a world-class manufacturer of oval automatic
contributing to enhance productivity and efficiency
screen printing presses serving the International
as well as help build up a developed and modern
garment printing industry. Maxchoice is introducing
industry in Bangladesh.
the technologies of Adelco with the Industry and
also ready to provide the technical support to get Apart from the processing they have continuous
An Innovation Hub
An Innovation Hub
March 2022
March 2022
Why manufacturers Successful development Bangladesh's 10
facing troubles to of nanofibrous facemask giant apparel
provide workers’ from recycled PET exporters in
salaries bottle 2021
Industry Insight
Business around the world was revenue. After the bank's payment Many people took the incentive
devastated by the COVID flood and other utility expenses, the money given by the government
forced to close or lose business salary money is not enough which without realizing it. Payment is
due to sales decline. When the creating dissatisfaction among workers. actually deducted from the account
world market started returning of Bangladesh Bank and there is no
To survive during COVID many
after overcoming all obstacles, salary remaining for the worker.
workers started doing various jobs
different kinds of instability started
such as hawker, auto-rickshaw Shipment is being delayed due
in our garment industry.
driving, grocery store, farm to shortage of labor, even order
etc. When they saw that it was is being canceled due to non-
possible to raise 15/20 thousand timely import payment due to
taka, they were no longer overpayment of his payment in the
interested in returning to their old bank account. It is getting late to
profession. Many are even starting open the LC again.
something as a self-entrepreneur.
Its back-to-back LC limit is being
Workers in the garment industry in blown up in order to cope with
Dhaka or its environs come mainly the pressure of late shipments and
from North Bengal or different extra orders.
districts of the country. But in the
New companies are being set up
last few years, the number of jobs
with the help of bankers to get
created by different industries or
new loans. New loans are being
industrial cities form other districts
used to pay interest on old loans.
Figure: RMG factories are not able to
of the country.
utilize their full production due to a lack Cash flow is a big problem for
An unhealthy competition has
of required workers. everyone now, there is business
started among the industry
but no opportunity! Because many
As retailers have gone bankrupt owners to supply these workers.
people are not able to overcome
in the last few years, so has the For example, a person who pays
the amount of loss. The only way
supply chain, and hundreds of 12,000 taka is taking 14,000 taka,
to overcome all these obstacles is
manufacturers have gone bankrupt even if he joins the factory in the
to make the right decision at the
which means it's about to be the most middle of the month, he will pay
right time. For example, not over-
delusional time of the year, as well. only after paying the payment slip
trading means not taking orders
of the previous factory. Factory
Suddenly when the retail business beyond one's means, not doing
management says if someone
has started to return, buyers unnecessary overtime.
brings a wrecker I will give him
are placing lots of orders at Above all, the government should
500 taka so he is joining another
once which is good news for us. extend incentive loan installments,
factory with 10/15 people, many
However, factories are not doing provide policies and training for
factories are going one step
enough profit. Many people ask new workers, and facilitate the
further and saying that if you work
why the factories are not able import and export process. Then,
6 hours, you will get paid 10 hours!
to pay on time as there are so I believe that many industrial
many orders. Why one industry On the other hand, banking has
establishments can make a long-
after another is being closed? The also become a challenge as all
term contribution to the economy
situation is like “Don't nag me, and the banks are following the policy
and development of the country.
leave me in peace.” of slow-moving in the field of
the garments industry. When the Author:
Reality is-these huge orders
factory is not able to generate
are becoming a liability for us
full revenue due to shortage
because there are not enough
of workers, the bank loan, the
workers! Factories are not able
incentive money taken during the A.K.M Saifur
to utilize their full production due
Covid time, is not in hand after the Rahman Farhad
to a lack of required workers. It
bank deducts. CEO, Wikitex-BD
creates difficulty to generate full
An Innovation Hub
Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO
57 Industrial Best
Practices
SN Abdullah
Nurunnahar Tania
Research & Development Successful development of
nanofibrous facemask from
recycled PET bottle
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
Engagement & Communication
51-52 Innovation
Award Epyllion champion of 6th
BGMEA cup 2021
Yeasin Mia
Graphic Design
58-59 Technology
Today
Zakir Hossain
Jr. Executive, Web & IT
Aerosol Technology
Inquiry:
M. +88 01775 99748
E. monir@textiletoday.com.bd
W. www.textiletoday.com.bd
Innovation
Successful development
of nanofibrous facemask
from recycled PET bottle
Rahbar Hossain
This innovative
development is the
output of a project of
the Textile Talent Hunt
7th season competition
organized by Textile
Today under the initiative
of Setting Transformation
Blueprint (STB). The
project has been
placed among the top 5
selected projects of the
competition.
Marine creatures dying of eating time demanded product for Setting Transformation Blueprint
plastic garbage is a common news Bangladesh's textile and apparel (STB). The project has been placed
we see in print and electronic industry. among the top 5 selected projects
media. Many international of the competition.
This innovative development is
organizations are doing seminars,
the output of a project of the Md Tanvir Hossain, a textile
making dialogues to reduce plastic
Textile Talent Hunt 7th season engineering student from Dhaka
use in our daily life and reuse it.
competition organized by Textile University of Engineering &
An electrospun nanofibrous mat Today under the initiative of Technology (DUET) executed
has been successfully produced
from recycled polyethylene
terephthalate (PET) bottles by the
electrospinning technique. Thus,
the developed mats have great
potential to use as a face mask
in this situation. Besides, it will
also decrease the environmental
pollution caused by PET bottles.
Furthermore, it will open a new
window for the protective clothing
sector.
Owing to high filtration
performance, low toxicity,
breathability, reusability,
ecofriendly, and commercially
viable this face mask is a Figure 2: The raw material of nano mat; PET bottle chips.
An Innovation Hub
Electrospinning process of
recycled PET nanofibrous mats
Nanofibers from the recycled PET
polymer have been studied in
the present study were produced
by solution electrospinning
technique (needle-based system).
Initially, the collected PET bottle
was washed perfectly with fresh
water and dried in an oven at
400˚C. Then the dried PET
bottle was finely converted to
chip form by a local machine
and 20 gm PET chips were
taken in a flask containing 80 ml
Figure 5: Electrospinning machine, Model-TL-F6, Tong Li Tech, China.
An Innovation Hub
Figure 6: Ayub Ali, Asst. Professor, Department of Textile Engineering, DUET was
Academic Supervisor of the project. transfer the water vapor through
“
the filter.
nano-fibrous mat. From a half liter
recycled PET bottle, it is possible to Commercial viability
make four facemask filters. Historically, nanofibers could not
I’m really feeling proud that
Why electro-spun masks are be manufactured in large enough
our teacher and student did
better? quantities and at low enough
this timely project which can
cost to be economically feasible
Many harmful particulate save the environment and
against existing alternatives such
pollutants have a diameter smaller help people in this time. Also,
as melt-blown. Recent technical
than 1 micrometer. Conventional I want to thank Textile Today
developments have ensured that
mechanical fibrous filters (such as for hunting the undergraduate
the output rate of electro spun
melt-blown filters) eliminate high- talents and giving them such
nano-fibre is similar to that of the
quality micrometer-sized particles. opportunities.”
traditional melt blowing process.
Electro-spun nano filter, however,
is considered best for particles in Dr. Shahjalal Khandaker The developed masks’ raw material
the submicron range as they give Head of Textile Engineering cost is very negligible. Excluding
the enhanced quality of filtration. Department, Dhaka University machinery cost, lab-scale
This is due to their high area of the of Engineering & Technology production cost is approximately
surface and the small diameter of 10-12 Tk per mask but in bulk scale
the pore. it will be approximately 5-6 Tk.
has been observed that the ES NF
Breathability filters' WVTR was superior. Ayub Ali, Asst. Professor,
Department of Textile Engineering,
Breathing comfort is generally Here, ES NF filters have a finer
Dhaka University of Engineering &
correlated with a pressure drop. structure and morphology and
Technology (DUET) said that we
Another significant aspect to a more uniform pore diameter.
have taken this innovation project
remember is the transportation This makes it possible to more
to make an impact in the society
of moisture, in a recent study, it consistently and effectively
by re-using the PET bottles. We
are seeing a huge prospect of this
development if anyone invest for
the industry scale production.
Dr. Shahjalal Khandaker, Head of
Textile Engineering Department,
Dhaka University of Engineering
& Technology (DUET) said, “I’m
really feeling proud that our
teacher and student did this
timely project which can save the
environment and help peoples
in this time. Also, I want to thank
Textile Today for hunting the
undergraduate talents and giving
Figure 7: Dr. Shahjalal Khandaker, Head of Textile Engineering Department, Dhaka
University of Engineering & Technology (DUET).
them such opportunities.”
An Innovation Hub
An Innovation Hub
“
Gopalakrishnan, Managing is an important market for
Director, GBCI – SEA & ME USGBC-GBCI.”
We have a plan to make markets said, “Bangladesh is one
“Bangladesh has the highest
my all-sister concern of the biggest markets for us.”
number of green garment
factories LEED-certified
“Bangladesh has now the highest factories in the world.
by 2025. Bangladesh is
number of green factories in the Recently Bangladesh Garment
now moving ahead and
world. So Bangladeshi factories Manufacturers and Exporters
more than 500 factories
are now more compliant.” Association (BGMEA) has been
are waiting for green
honored with the 2021 USGBC
certification,” Gopalakrishnan thanked 4A yarn
Leadership Award,” Santanu
Dyeing and the entire team for
added.
this remarkable achievement.
Md. Abul Kalam Azad,
Santanu Dutta Gupta,
General Manager (Group-
Regional head USGBC-GBCI
Head of Engineering) of Team
(East India, Bangladesh and
Group showcased a keynote
Vietnam markets) said, “It is
presentation on their green
Abdullah Hil Rakib a very big achievement for
achieving including energy,
Director, BGMEA Bangladesh in 2022. Bangladesh
water, materials, innovation, etc.
MD, TEAM Group
A delegation of BGMEA led by President Faruque Faruque Hassan also apprised the ILO Director-
Hassan met with Guy Ryder, Director-General of General about the initiatives and programs including
the International Labour Organization at the ILO ILO’s Better Work Program in the RMG Sector to
headquarters in Geneva on February 25. promote descent working conditions in the garment
factories.
BGMEA has partnered with the ILO on Social
Dialogue and Harmonious Industrial Relations (SDIR)
project in garment factories which aimed to promote
social dialogue and harmonious industrial relations in
the Bangladesh RMG sector.
The Government of Bangladesh has proactively taken
a number of steps including amending the labor law
and passage of the Labour Rules, making elected
Figure: The BGMEA President reaffirmed their commitment to Participation Committee and Safety Committee
maintaining a safe and sustainable working environment and mandatory in garment factories.
harmonious labor relations.
Furthermore, a workers’ welfare fund has been
BGMEA President Faruque Hassan gave an overview created for the export-oriented industries where
of the progress made by Bangladesh’s RMG industry the apparel industry alone contributed more than 12
in compliance with ILO conventions ratified by million dollars this year and which increases in line
Bangladesh. with the growth of RMG exports, Faruque Hassan
informed.
He said unprecedented safety initiatives coupled
with massive training of workers jointly taken by ILO Director-General Guy Ryder praised the progress
the Government, brands, ILO, and development made by Bangladesh in making the workplace safer
partners have led to a tangible transformation in the and improving working conditions in the apparel
Bangladesh garment industry, making it a role model industry.
for others to emulate. The delegation comprised Vice President Miran
Moreover, the industry is fully committed to carrying on Ali and Directors Asif Ashraf, Tanvir Ahmed, and
this momentum to forge a safer industry that reflects Abdullah Hil Rakib. Shengjie Li, Senior Adviser, Office
the label ‘Made in Bangladesh’ with pride, he said. of Director-General, was also present at the meeting.
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Figure: Ananta Ahmed (Left) handing over the certificate to Zahangir Alam (2nd from right), Ayesha Akter (3rd from left) and Drimit
Alam Heeya (2nd from left) of DPPL.
“
Denim Processing Plant Ltd. Ayesha Akter, Managing Director
(DPPL) situated in Belashahor, and Drimit Alam Heeya, Director of
Comilla, Bangladesh – received Denim Processing Plant Ltd.
LEED NC v3 GOLD Certificate with
70 LEED points. “We would like to Ayesha Akter said, “We choose
thank Md. Zahangir to become GREEN as we want
The leader in Green Building Alam and DPPL’s to keep the earth livable for
Consultancy services in entire project team our future generation. It is our
Bangladesh (Consulting 225+ for the commitment responsibility. Becoming a LEED-
Projects), 360° Total Solution Ltd. to GREEN and certified factory will greatly aid us
(360 TSL) is the proud Green continual support by significantly reducing water and
Building Consultant for the project. to us.” energy consumption. On top of it,
In a grand event, 360 TSL handed this will be a positive branding for
over the Gold Certification to Denim Processing Plant Ltd.”
DPPL at its office in Dhaka.
Md. Zahangir Alam said, “When
On 5 March, Ananta Ahmed, I started this project I aspired to
USGBC Faculty, LEED AP BD+C, build an exemplary GREEN apparel
ID+C, EB O+M, HOMES, ND, factory. In the process, I met with
Principal LEED Consultant & Ananta Ahmed Ananta Ahmed – as he is one of
Managing Director of 360° TSL Managing Director the top global USGBC expert
handed over the Gold Certification 360° TSL Faculty. Ananta thoroughly guided
to Md. Zahangir Alam, CEO; me on the project. I am thankful
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225+
applicable world standards
factory who have an excellent
track record of industrial • Adaptations of green operation
management, international & maintenance plan
marketing as well as a local
business. 360° TSL is the pioneer
and leading Green Building Project Running
Since day one of its founding, Consultancy Company in
DPPL, has progressively, Bangladesh, currently consulting in 85+ Companies
consistently developed into 85+ Companies to implement
one of the most competent and 225+ Green Building Projects.
professionally well-equipped
organizations in the RMG sector 360° TSL also conducts different
training and workshops on
in Bangladesh. It is managed by
highly qualified and experienced Green Building benefits and
personnel. Skilled workers are return and also for building
deployed for its manufacturing green professionals to drive the
units. sector towards sustainability. The
company is also a SILVER member
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Bangladesh's 10 giant
apparel exporters in 2021
Sayed Abdullah
Bangladesh readymade garment from the sole initiative of Late companies in Bangladesh –
(RMG) industry has spectacularly Engr. Nurul Haque Sikder, the Mondol Group – exported $199.6
bounced back from the COVID-19 former and founder Chairman and million apparel in 2021.
scarce and 2021 has been Managing Director of the Group.
phenomenal year for the country. For the 30 years, Mondol Group
In 2021, Bangladesh apparel export Since 2001, Nafis Sikder is holding – under the profound guidance
earnings reached $35.811 billion the position of Managing Director of Haji Abdul Majid Mondol, has
(Source: BGMEA). of the group and the group runs very gained an immense success and
smoothly under his dynamic leadership. has earned goodwill with 25
In this article, Textile Today will Over a period of last seventeen years, years of experience in garment
show the top 10 apparel exporters the company’s business growth is very industries.
in 2021. high and significant.
Mondol’s garment products are
Top 10 apparel exporters DBL Group: One of Bangladesh’s made using top quality yarn that
amount ($ million) in 2021. largest and most reputed vertically is procured from class one sources
Source: BGMEA integrated knitted apparels across world.
manufacturers and exporters
Ha-Meem Group $582.7 Asian Group: Asian Group
exported $457.4 million worth
Palmal Group $499 apparel in 2021. garment export rose to $185.8
DBL Group $457.4 million in 2021. Asian Group is
Square Fashions Ltd.: The proud to be one of the leading
Square Fashions Ltd. $312.8
Company earned $312.8 million garments manufacturers of
Al Muslim Group $205.6 in 2021. Square Fashions Ltd. Bangladesh. It has 30000+
Mondol Group $199.6 started its journey in 2001 employees.
Asian Group $185.8 with the combination of
modern technology and skilled AKH Group: AKH Group exported
AKH Group $165.5
professionals which helped it to $165.5 million apparel in 2021. AKH
Natural Group $161.5 is a one-stop source for overseas
achieve the position to cater for
Bitopi Group $160.3 world’s top notch customers in a buyers to buy their high quality
short span of time. knit and woven garments from
Ha-Meem Group: It exported Bangladesh.
$582.7 million in 2021. Since its Al Muslim Group: Al Muslim’s RMG
inception in 1984, Ha-Meem Group export earnings rose to $205.6 Started in 1997, its export continues
under the leadership of A. K. Azad million in 2021. Al-Muslim Group, a to grow vertically and horizontally.
and Md. Delwar Hossain became Bangladeshi apparel manufacturer,
Natural Group: Natural Group
a leading RMG manufacturer in is a driving provider of readymade
exported apparel worth $161.5
Bangladesh and in the world – garments and denim products in
million in 2021. Natural Group is
working with some of the biggest the world.
the most modern and state-of-art
fashion brands of the world.
The Company creates the most woven and sweater manufacturer
Currently Ha-Meem Group trendy and fashionable RMG and in Bangladesh. Natural started its
employs around 50,000 workers denim products and possesses journey in the year 2000.
and the company has 26 garment the most complete and updated
Bitopi Group (Tarasima Apparels
factories consisting of 300 production manufacturing system and
Ltd): Tarasima Apparels Ltd. of
lines and 7 washing plants to produce machineries in Bangladesh.
Bitopi Group exported $160.3
7 million pcs/month.
Al Muslim produces all type of million in 2021. Established in
Palmal Group: In 2021, Palmal woven top and bottom items for 2005, Tarasima Apparels Ltd
Group exported $499 million men, women and kids. specializes in Denim and Non
worth apparel. Palmal Group Denim bottoms while it also has
of Industries, a leading RMG Mondol Group: One of the leading the latest wet processing and dry
manufacturers, emerged in 1984 textile and apparel manufacturing processing capabilities.
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clothing: a
pandemic is over or we get used to it. Season-
neutral clothing that we can wear around the
year and have longevity will be the trend in the
reset in the
post-pandemic retail world. If we look back to
events like the Second World War and 2008
financial crisis, we will find how fabric rationing
paved the way for Dior’s New Look in 1947 or
sustainability
how Gucci opted for refashioning to offset the
woe of declining sales after 2010.
Seasonless clothing doesn't necessarily mean
just buy less, though. Adopting strategy
practice
for seasonless fashion means developing a
dynamic and rotating product line that serves
a brand’s goals as well as consumers’ demand.
The concept of seasonless fashion may sound
straightforward, but it is not. Firstly, we should
Sabbir Rahman Khan not mix it up with ‘fast fashion.’
Also, it doesn’t support the idea that brands
In this changing world, we all need a ‘wardrobe reset’, should be releasing new collections every
and here comes the concept of seasonless clothing. It week or month. In principle, seasonless
means something an individual could wear whenever s/ merchandising strategy targets to transform
he wants to. And this concept has come to prominence the retail mindset from one where consumers
during the time of pandemic. In the middle of March 2020, take it for granted that certain items should be
the pandemic entailed supply chain disruptions, revenue bought at certain times of the year.
fall, and surplus inventory. Inventories turned idle as there
As we commonly experience when a season-
are no stores or even consumers wanted to buy or invest
specific clothing line is launched, just in a few
clothing items. Consequently, several smaller fashion labels
weeks those products become outdated, are on
had to shut stores. Thinking about all these factors and also
sale and tend to be replaced by the stores. This
thinking about people are not anymore in a position to buy
never-ending season-cycle influence consumers
seasonal dresses as before.
to grab the next trend, buy and discard the
This pandemic taught people to be conscious about how last one purchased. This practice is simply not
much they should spend for clothing and how much they sustainable.
are planning to buy. This triggered the trend of minimalistic
To explain more, seasonality, in the apparel
living around continents. So, the ‘six months buy plan’
sector, is the core and very relevant. In some
of retail stores has lost its significance. Even renowned
regions, say for instance, like in north-east of
brands are promoting the tagline – “Let’s Stop Pretending
the USA, the weather can shift from scorching
We Need New Clothes Every Season’ as a move towards
heat to extreme cold in just a matter of days.
seasonless clothing culture.
An Innovation Hub
Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO
SN Abdullah
Nurunnahar Tania 66 Advertorial Ukraine-Russia war: Fashion
Research & Development brands responding to it
Yeasin Mia
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Cinematographer
This means going from wearing sports shorts one end up in landfills harming the environment.
day to cover you with heavy clothes to stay warm as
So, it is time producers must make clothes with the
much as possible. But from the business model lens
vision that consumers can wear them for longer with
that's not what ‘seasons’ are about.
satisfaction. Not the trendy ones we used to wear
For businesses, seasonality is the tool to sell more once or sometimes not and discard because they are
products throughout the calendar in a year. if we can cheap. This habit of ours puts tremendous pressure
refer to the last few decades, we will see how we've on the mother earth and on the factory workers who
gone from having five or more seasons from having make them.
only two seasons. Interestingly, a few brands (not
It is of no doubt that clothing simplifying our daily
referring to any names) with their quick designing,
life and reducing stress in a climate changing world
speedy inventory and dynamic price points has gone
is a big plus. The prime climate benefit of it is that
up to 52 seasons! This means a new line of clothing
seasonless clothing line in our wardrobe can support
gets designed and produced every single week
our world to offset the adverse impact of climate
around the year.
change by curtailing overconsumption.
To fit in the global goal for sustainability, adopting
Consciously or unconsciously, we all suffer from
seasonless clothing principle turns as the demand
some form of climate anxiety in different ways. It
of time. A few of the key benefits of adopting
could be the fear that our life will be in danger if
seasonless clothing are, rise of sustainable garments,
any climate-related impact or disaster occurred due
less pressure on factories for overproducing,
to our irresponsible behavior towards the planet.
reduction of panic buying or impulse purchase and
Thus, it is imperative to change our mindset as
less waste.
manufacturers as well as consumers if we really want
Now that we’ve been adapting to the pandemic, it to change things truly.
will give us the platform to fix our overconsumption
habit. Our lust for excess clothes in the wardrobe will Author:
have to be reassessed. Because it is our wastefulness
that is contrary to sustainability. Ideally, a fewer
clothing is good enough for us. Sabbir Rahman Khan
The writer is a Knowledge
Hence, what will appear integral is how much
Management, Communications and
producers need to manufacture in line with the real Advocacy Professional, working
need of consumers. Because it is not possible that for an international development
producers’ massive inventories can always end up in organisation.
discounts and sales. As the final fate, excess items The views expressed are personal.
in Bangladesh. The leading RMG Group of the as Director for two terms in 2013-15 and 2015-2017,
country–comprised of 6 apparel and backward and he is also an elected Director of the current
linkage factories– started its venture in 2009 and BGMEA Board. Recently Rakib has been awarded
within a short period it has curved out its niche in the Dhaka University Marketing Alumni Association
industry. Having said that, Team Group is also and a (MAA) Award for his outstanding contribution to the
forerunner in the green revolution having one LEED country’s economy.
Platinum and Gold-certified factory.
The Business Innovation Summit event was graced
Abdullah Hil Rakib also served Bangladesh Garment by Salman Fazlur Rahman, advisor to the Prime Minister
Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and Zunaid Ahmed Palak MP, ICT State Minister.
An Innovation Hub
There has been a growing demand for sustainable In order to boost green fashion, Reliance Industries
raw materials like recycled polyester filament Limited, India has been recycling used plastic bottles
yarns across varied product range for use in major to provide eco-sensitive raw materials to global
apparel categories. Buoyed by burgeoning demand fashion brands and retailers. Reliance Industries
Reliance Industries Limited (RIL) has introduced Limited, recycles more than 2 billion post-consumer
R|Elan™ GreenGold in the filament form, made from PET bottles annually across different manufacturing
recycling 100% post-consumer used PET bottles. sites.
This is suitable for making garments across a varied
R|Elan™ range of fabrics offer multiple possibilities
range of categories. It is available in Draw Texturized
with inherent technologies that bring about special
Yarn (DTY) for categories like activewear, denims,
and lasting benefits in the garment for the consumer.
formalwear etc. and in Fully Drawn Yarn (FDY) to
R|Elan™ GreenGold fabric which is made from 100%
make garments across categories like Women’s
post-consumer used PET bottles is a core part of
Dresses and Tops.
the R|Elan™ product portfolio and it helps provide
Enhanced whiteness index sustainable solutions to the fashion industry. This can
be used in manufacturing casual wear, denims, shirts,
When post-consumer waste PET bottles are
bottom weight, active wear, and womenswear.
converted into recycled fibres the resultant product
may have low whiteness with yellowish tone. This Eco-friendly fabrics that enable enhanced
leads to a limitation for brands to make high quality performance
fabrics in some specific shades including light, pastel
Today, there is a growing demand from consumers
and brilliant shades.
for apparel with value added benefits. Quality alone
Apart from is not a factor for purchasing a product, consumers
being made from are looking for additional functionality that enables
assured 100% enhanced performance. Consumers today are also
post-consumer well aware of factors that affect the environment
used PET and are conscious about how they can contribute
bottles for raw towards its betterment by using eco-friendly products.
material, R|Elan™
R|Elan™ fabrics offer a world of possibilities with
GreenGold
technologies that bring lasting benefits to wearer
also offers
at the same time are eco-friendly. Here, we have
an enhanced
developed a wide range of fabrics from green fibre
whiteness in its
variants, combining sustainability with various
recycled portfolio.
functional benefits like moisture management in the
It gives a superior
form of R|Elan™ Kooltex, thermal insulation in the
whiteness index
form of R|Elan™ AirTherm and all weather comfort
that enables it
in the form of R|Elan™ AllClima. This solution can be
to be ideal for
ideal offering from fashion brands to the consumers
making fabric
that are looking for eco-friendly garments which also
in light and
Figure: Reliance Industries Limited provides enhanced comfort.
(RIL) has introduced R|Elan™ pastel shades
GreenGold in the filament form, made available across Now, your garments can be eco-friendly, functional
from recycling 100% post-consumer as well as fashionable!!
used PET bottles. a wide range of
applications. This way, R|Elan™ GreenGold fabric empowers
Growing awareness and demand for Green Fashion high quality eco-friendly fashion to the consumers
as a next-generation fabric that is in line with the
The fashion and textile industry in India is one of
latest fashion trends at the same time fulfilling their
the key contributors to the economic growth, as
sustainable lifestyle needs.
well as a leading employment generator. However,
the industry has its inherent detrimental effect on Visit us at https://www.r-elan.com/ to know more
environment and natural resources. It has become about R|Elan™ and also visit https://relan-sourcing.
imperative for the entire value chain to deal with virtulab.online/ to explore the world of innovative
eco-pollution. fabrics from R|Elan™.
An Innovation Hub
National chemical
guidance provides
orientation through
the landscape
of international
guidelines”
Dr. Angelika Fleddermann
Country Director, Deutsche
Gesellschaft für Internationale
Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) Bangladesh
An Innovation Hub
areas of waste and wastewater Dr. Angelika Fleddermann: Textile Today: According to the
management and energy Although the textile and garment industry people, all the factories
consumption. Recently GIZ--on behalf (T&G) industry has grown to such do not have the same facility
of the govt. of Germany and the an extent in Bangladesh that it to comply with the National
Ministry of Commerce, Bangladesh— is now second largest supplier Chemical Guidelines. What will
has unveiled the draft of ‘National of apparels globally, no National you remark on the issue?
Chemical Guideline for Textile and Chemical Management Guidelines Dr. Angelika Fleddermann: Those
Garment Industry in Bangladesh to (NCMG) are developed for this factories that do not have the
create a uniform standard. industry in Bangladesh. In the facilities will need to find a solution
absence of such a guideline, in the process to finding solutions.
Textile Today has met GIZ Country
factories face lots of problems The Bangladeshi government, like
Director for Bangladesh Dr.
to properly manage chemicals the Ministry of Commerce or the
Angelika Fleddermann to know
in their factories. To further Department of Environment, as
more about their activities in
enhance competitiveness of the well as private sector associations,
Bangladesh including chemical
T&G industry of Bangladesh in like BGMEA, BKMEA or LFMEAB,
guidelines’ details, renewable
the global market, the Ministry or some technical cooperation
energy usages aspects etc.
of Commerce (MoC) decided agencies, like GIZ, can create
Textile Today: As the Country to develop the NCMG for the spaces to discuss shared
Director of GIZ in Bangladesh, T&G industry of Bangladesh responsibilities or other forms
what is your observation regarding and requested the GIZ to to address this. In general, the
sustainability initiatives taken by support in developing it. We approval of any kind of regulation,
Bangladesh’s entrepreneurs? obviously are glad to provide our including guidelines, should of
Dr. Angelika Fleddermann: support to MoC. This guideline course include an assessment of
Sustainability initiatives, provides guidance to local how to implement it.
understood as focusing on manufacturers for an appropriate
use of chemicals according to Moreover, the guidance points
greening businesses, are of course
international requirements and out a stepwise approach
not only a matter of conviction
standards. for the improvement of the
or ethical ambition, but have
environmentally performance
a commercial impact. In the improves clarity as more and of produces. This means, that
export-oriented RMG sector, the more stricter requirements from producers will find information on
Bangladesh industry has built the buyers’ side (brands, buyers, how to improve their production
some of the most modern factories customer) force the producers according to their individual
possible. The business community to more and stricter compliance needs and available resources.
is very well aware of this. Business with environmental standards. The guidance will be accompanied
associations like BGMEA, BKMEA Producers are often not sufficiently by capacity-building measures
and BTMA are taking steps to informed or capacitated to from GIZ, such as the e-REMC
support their member factories implement measures to improve (Resource Efficient Management
though training and advisory their compliance. of Chemicals) training, a
services. Most of the factories are
Provides assistance to understand comprehensive online self-learning
equipped with latest machinery
the landscape of international training course, free of cost.
and technologies to meet the
standards and what is needed for Textile Today: Renewable energy
demand of fashion trends. Now,
manufacturers to be compliant. and energy efficiency is a priority
Bangladesh is the home to
the world’s highest number of Textile Today: As brands enforce area of GIZ working in Bangladesh.
LEED certified Factories. These their own set of sustainable guidelines, How does GIZ work with
factories use energy-efficient and then how will the manufacturers stakeholders to boost renewable
environment-friendly technology implement these guidelines? Are the energy usages in the country?
and practices that save water and guidelines aligned with the existing Dr. Angelika Fleddermann:
energy and minimize pollution. chemical guidelines? GIZ is directly working with the
Textile Today: On behalf of the Dr. Angelika Fleddermann: private sector stakeholders of
govt. of Germany and the Ministry Yes, the guidance provides T&G industry to help them in
of Commerce, Bangladesh-- GIZ orientation through the landscape developing Renewable energy
recently has unveiled the draft of of international guidelines and and Energy efficient projects. We
‘National Chemical Guideline for refers to them; i.e. ZDHC (Zero have so far developed 68 solar
Textile and Garment Industry in Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals PV technology based projects at
Bangladesh. What was the drive Foundation), EU REACH, Oeko-Tex different factories of this industry
behind this significant initiative? and others. The guidance is NO with a cumulative capacity of
new standard. 65 MWp (megawatt peak). GIZ
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itemagroup.com
Fa s h i o n Wo r l d
Figure: Some western fashion companies have decided to stop selling their products or pull back on operations in Russia.
On February 24 Ukraine and Here is how different fashion the U.N. World Food Programme, a
Russia began a war that has brands are responding to the humanitarian organization.
instigated a humanitarian crisis Russian invasion of Ukraine:
Boohoo
and preoccupied world leaders
Acne Studios
with how to respond both short Has stopped all sales in Russia.
and long term. The western allies Donated €100,000 (about
Burberry
and NATO have been looking for $110,915) to UNICEF and to
the U.N. High Commissioner for Donating an undisclosed amount
different ways to support Ukraine
Refugees, or UNHCR. The brand has to the British Red Cross Ukraine Crisis
from afar. In a rapidly evolving
also stopped all deliveries to Russia. Appeal. The brand also announced it
response, some companies
would match any employee donations
have decided to stop selling Adidas
to charities supporting humanitarian
their products or pull back on
Suspended its partnership with efforts in Ukraine.
operations in Russia.
the Russian Football Union and is
Camera della Moda
Fashion brands like H&M, Nike, and donating €100,000, footwear, and
Puma have altered their operations apparel to organizations helping Donating contributions received
in Russia. On the other hand, children and refugees. at stage presentations and fashion
some companies like LVMH, Kering, shows to the UNHCR.
IKEA
and Burberry have offered aid to Canada Goose
Ukrainians. Also, some individuals The brand is closing its stores in
Russia, stopping production and Has suspended all sales and
in the fashion world have used their
halting all imports and exports to deliveries in Russia.
platforms to stand up for Ukraine.
Russia and Belarus. IKEA noted Chanel
However, another moral question
that these decisions have an
is arising observing these steps Closed its stores in Russia and
impact on 15,000 IKEA workers,
taken by brands and different halted all e-commerce in the area.
so the company has "secured the
countries’ leaders. When Palestine, The brand also donated €2 million
employment and income stability
Syria, Uyghur, Kashmir, Yemen, (about $2.18 million) to relief funds
for the immediate future" and will
Rakhine (Rohingya), Afghanistan, in support of Ukraine, but did not
provide support to workers and
Iraq etc. were attacked (still these disclose where.
their families in the region.
lands and their people are being
Ganni
destroyed), global leaders/brands ASOS
ignored those and did not take any Donating 100,000 DKK (about $14,700)
Has stopped all sales in Russia and
action against invaders. Why such to the Danish Refugee Council and has
Ukraine.
double standard are they showing halted on sales in Russia.
Balenciaga
against atrocities to humanity?— Gucci
the question is roaming around Wiped its Instagram channel and
Donating $500,000 to the UNHCR
different social media platforms. donated an undisclosed amount to
An Innovation Hub
through its long-standing global Mango remain open. Puma has offered
campaign Chime for Change. financial support and housing
Closed its stores in Ukraine and
options in western Ukraine to its
Hermès paused sales in Russia. The brand
380 employees in Ukraine and the
has also donated €100,000 to
Closed all its stores in Russia and surrounding area.
International Red Cross and Red
paused all commercial activities in
Crescent Movement. Richemont
the country.
Nanushka The brand includes Cartier and
Kering YOOX Net-a-Porter and has closed
Will not be making any deals stores in Russia and paused all
Made a donation to the UNHCR in
with Russian wholesale partners commercial business in the area.
an undisclosed amount.
moving forward, and has stopped
Louis Vuitton Skims
delivering to Russia.
Made a donation of €1 million Shared that it would be making a
Nike
(about $1.09 million) to UNICEF donation to World Central Kitchen.
Nike's website currently says
to provide aid for children and Talbots
that it cannot guarantee product
families in Ukraine.
delivery to Russia, and therefore Donating products to victims and
LVMH Group online and app purchases are refugees by shipping 8,000 items
temporarily unavailable in the through Give Back Box Charity, Inc.
Stated that “LVMH has today
decided to make a first emergency region. It advises shoppers to visit Under Armour
donation of €5 million to support their nearest Nike store.
Partnered with humanitarian
the International Committee of OTB Foundation groups to help provide what is
the Red Cross (ICRC) to help the needed to the displaced and
Providing support for families and
direct and indirect victims of this stopped all shipments to its sales
individuals who are fleeing Ukraine.
conflict.” The group is also providing channels in Russia.
aid to its 150 Ukrainian workers and Puma
Valentino
launching a fundraising campaign
Stopped deliveries to Russia,
in support of the ICRC. Donating €500,000 to the UNHCR.
though stores in the country
(The report was made based on different web data)
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Fatullah, Narayangonj, Bangladesh.
01726 128 306
info@estrims.com
www.estrims.com
Global Apparel Sourcing
Textile Today evaluated various Both knitwear and woven sector as China and Mexico.
aspects of 2021 apparel export maintained over 40% year-over-
data’s available to depict the year growth. So the overall RMG On the other hand, Vietnam is
highly perspective apparel export performance had shown extremely reliant on imports of
sourcing countries in 2022. Here tremendous resilience in the raw materials such as cotton, fiber,
are the top ten countries: past few months. Despite all yarn, textiles, and garments for
the challenges caused by the clothing production as local supply
1. Bangladesh: The second largest pandemic, such turn around has not been sufficient in recent
apparel exporting country has had reflects the hard work and years.
a tremendous 2021. As per the resilience of the country’s apparel
Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) Heavy dependence on imports
entrepreneurs and workers, and
data, in July- January of FY2021- poses momentous risks to the
the confidence of the global
22, Bangladesh readymade clothing manufacturing industry.
brands on the country.
garment (RMG) industry exported Along with the burden to meet
$23.99 billion worth garments. 2. Vietnam: As per the data of the local demand, the government
Which is a massive 30.30% General Statistics Office, Vietnam has thus been stressing the
increase from the same period of apparel export earned $32.75 development of the domestic
the previous fiscal year. Among billion in 2021. The country’s raw material supply chain for
the total RMG export, knitwear apparel export has been hit by the textile, garment, leather, and
items export fetched $13.27 billion, the wide-spread COVID infection. footwear industries.
while woven items earned $10.71 Which dragged its performance of
3. Turkey: According to the
billion, registering 32.89% and RMG.
data from the Turkish Statistical
27.23% growth respectively. For
RMG and textile products were Institute and the country’s
the single month of January 2021,
among its major commodities Ministry of Trade, Turkey exported
the RMG export grew by 42.71%
based on export turnover in readymade garments (RMG)
and reached $4.08 billion which
2020. As Vietnam diminished its worth $13.36 billion, compared
is the highest ever single month
dependence on agriculture, the to $10.63 billion exports in the
export of this sector.
manufacturing sector has become corresponding period of 2020.
In fact for the first time in history a vital pillar in its economy.
While according to Mustafa
Bangladesh RMG industry has
One of the key critical benefits of Gültepe, Head of the Istanbul
crossed the milestone of $4 billion
the Vietnamese manufacturing Apparel Exporters’ Association
RMG export in single month in
industry lies in its cheap labor, (IHKIB), Turkey’s readymade
December 2021 and export in
compared to its competitors such garment (RMG) export to earn
January crossed December.
An Innovation Hub
$20bn in 2021, as European Mexico ranks highly on its tariff machinery for the production of
markets looking for more imports advantage as it maintains strict both fabrics and cut-and-sewn.
from Turkey as Turkey is in close rules of origin that limit the
vicinity to Europe. use of non-US-Mexico-Canada 9. Peru: The country has a strong
Agreement (USMCA) inputs. locally grown quality cotton – with
European brands are looking at The agreement encourages US this the production of textiles
Turkey due to global problems in investment in Mexico’s garment and clothing in Peru has shown
the supply chain, increased freight industry, which relishes tariff-free abundant development in recent
and logistics costs. export to the US, accounting for years which can be ascribed to the
85% of its market. high quality of Peruvian fibers and
While, Turkey has an exceedingly the highly combined production
skilled labor force. As Turkey has Mexico has a big number of process. Besides, Peru has tariffs
moved higher on the list of top free trade agreements (12 with benefit, lead time and its vertical
exporters, the industry has felt 46 countries), which means the integration to source materials.
additional pressure on price, value Mexican market is one of the best
addition, and quality. open and competitive in the world. 10. Thailand: As of January 2021,
nearly seven million pieces of
Turkey has an extensive range 6. Morocco: In 2019, Morocco clothing for boys and men were
of manufacturing competences, exported apparel worth $3.6 exported from Thailand. The
including basics, which endure a billion. Apparel represent a large country is expert in manufacturing
big portion of its garment exports. share of Morocco’s industrial fabric, sportswear, casualwear,
exports, and its government has kidswear and womenswear.
4. China: With 31.6% of global
launched an acceleration plan to
apparel imports from China in The prowess is courtesy to its
boost the sector by 2025.
2020 – the country still holds the textile sector cluster – making
top apparel sourcing destination Over the next few years, Morocco Thailand one of the few countries
despite having several issues is expected to profit from the who has all features from
with the USA and other western capacity-building program for fast production, design and sale
countries. fashion, knitwear and denim. to home textiles. Thailand also
outshines in eco-friendly finishing,
The outbreak of COVID-19 brought 7. Egypt: Egypt’s RMG exports dyeing, and printing services
negative effects to China’s apparel increased by 41 percent in 2021 which meet global standards.
exports in 2020. In 2020, China’s to $2.49 billion. The country has Though, scarcity of raw materials
export value of garments and boosting its promotional and and other challenges prevent the
accessories was worth 137.4 billion marketing services and it has country from catching up with
U.S. dollars, representing an 8.6% taken a number of initiatives to its textile manufacturing giant
loss compared to the previous grow e-marketing tools for its RMG neighbors.
year. However, China’s national exporters. Egypt has a medium-
apparel retail market has slowly sized textile and garment industry
recovered and reached a positive with the EU and the US listed as its
year-on-year growth. major export markets.
An Innovation Hub
Neela Hosna
Ara, Crony Group
Chairman, gets
selected as a Director
to the BGMEA Board
A H Monir
Exclusive Distributor
Reactive Dyes and Dye Intermediates
Chemistry
reactive black dyes designed for the
following requirements:
Colors
Behind
1. Energy saving, green production.
ZDHC
ZERO WASTE
MANUFACTURING
GOTS/
Approved
GATEWAY / REGISTERED
March 2022
Through third-party
verification, robust data inputs
and bale-to-mill trackability,
the Trust Protocol gives
brands and retailers the critical
assurances they need to prove
the cotton fiber element of
their supply chain is more
sustainably grown with lower
environmental and social risk.
The more sustainable cotton
choice, today and tomorrow.
Exclusive yarn
production from
abandoned banana
plant in Bangladesh
Shafiun Nahar Elma
An Innovation Hub
Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO
SN Abdullah
Nurunnahar Tania
Research & Development Russia-Ukraine war hinders
Indian Recycled Yarn Market
Exclusive green
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
composite found from
Engagement & Communication 90-91 Sustainably
waste coconut leaf
Today
Electricity Electricity
produced supply
Polycrystalline / Mono-
crystalline Solar panels Inverter
Draw frame
of 1000 W
A technology for manufacturing a reinforcement interfacial bonding at the interface of fiber and
(strengthening) composite from a waste coconut leaf matrix. To obtain it the natural fibers, which belong
sheath (CLS) has been uncovered by an international to hydroxyl groups containing lignin and cellulose
research team from Russia, India and Thailand. Due are generally chemically modified. By using chemical
to its lightness and strength, it can be used to cover or surface modification, it is possible to improve the
autobahns, create interiors for railway cars and degree of interlocking of at the interface of fiber with
airplanes. Also, it can be used for domestic needs. a matrix, which results in excellent resistance to failure
of the materials," said Sergey Gorbatyuk, Co-author of
the study, Professor of the Department of Engineering
of Technological Equipment at NUST MISIS.
Coconut fiber composites with phenol formaldehyde
were made by hand lay-up technique followed by
compression molding and the study was carried
out by testing tensile, flexural, impact strength, as
well as measuring the rate of water absorption and
biodegradability characteristics.
According to the developers, the results confirm
the superior mechanical properties of the green
composite compared to natural coconut fiber are
driven by the low content of hydrophilic hydroxyl
Figure: A technology for manufacturing a reinforcement
(strengthening) composite from a waste coconut leaf sheath
groups and reduced impurities.
(CLS) has been uncovered by an international research team.
To optimize the technology two types of fibers
Natural fibers - coconut, sisal, coir, jute, banana, - untreated and mercerized - treated with a
hemp, bamboo - are increasingly in demand in the concentrated solution of caustic soda (which is the
industry due to their high mechanical strength and most common alkali) and washed with hot and cold
stiffness, excellent thermal stability and corrosion water. The mercerized composite samples showed
resistance. Use of these natural fibers are increasing an elastic modulus of about 45–60% and a 30–40%
to replace synthetic fibers as a cost-effective, higher tensile strength compared to the untreated
affordable and environmentally friendly solution. sample. This is due to the formation of a special
rough surface on the fibers as a result of processing,
King Mongkut's University of Technology North
which provides a better arrangement of the fibers
Bangkok jointly with the NUST MISIS Department of
and adhesion to the matrix.
Engineering of Technological Equipment conducted
the study on green composites. The leading The study showed clearly that the created composite
scientists from Thailand are Dr. Sanjay Mavinkere is a good candidate for domestic and industrial
Rangappa, Senior Research Scientist at KMUTNB, applications in the decoration of cabins and railway
and Prof. Dr. -Ing. habil. Suchart Siengchin, President cars, highway construction, in commercial interior
of KMUTNB. design as environmental wall and floor coatings.
“The superior properties of composite made of In Russia, developers plan to adapt the technology
natural fibers are driven especially by a good using flax, hemp and nettle fibers as raw materials.
An Innovation Hub
Spinning industry is one of the most complicated continuous usage of the equipment in inefficient
manufacturing industries as it is a fragmented and operating parameters. The energy cost is around 15
heterogeneous sector dominated by small and % to 20 % over the production cost and it stands
medium enterprises (SMEs). Energy is one of the next to raw material cost. Hence now a day’s area
main cost factors in the spinning industry. Particularly of focus is towards energy consumption at load
in times of high energy price capriciousness, end and by optimizing the efficiency of the motor.
improving energy efficiency should be a primary In this paper, influence of motors and process of
concern for spinning plants. There are various optimization in spinning mill on energy conservation
energy-efficiency opportunities that exist in every is discussed with practical data.
spinning plant, many of which are cost-effective.
Power shortage and unstable power supply remain
However, even cost-effective options often are not serious problems. Conventional technologies
implemented in yarn manufacturing plants mostly that utilize consume more energy and cause
because of the limited information on how to peak loads leading to negative environmental
implement energy-efficiency measures, especially impacts. As the world grapples with the energy
given the fact that a majority of spinning plants are and environmental crisis, there is an urgent need
categorized as SMEs and hence they have limited to develop and promote environmentally benign
resources to acquire this information.Know-how on sustainable technologies. Solar power based is
energy-efficiency technologies and practices should, one such promising technology, given the fact that
therefore, be prepared and disseminated to yarn solar energy is the cheapest and widely available
manufacturing plants. renewable energy that matches the electricity load
requirements. Now a day, mechanical energy is
As manufacturers face an increasingly competitive
the most viable way to transform thermal energy.
global business environment, they seek opportunities
Thermal energy is the most untamed in nature and it
to reduce production costs without negatively
is not environment friendly to transform the chemical
affecting product yield or quality. For public and
energy of fossil fuel into electricity via mechanical
private companies alike, rising energy prices are
conversion devices as there are some issues like
driving up costs and decreasing value added at
carbon emission, non-abundance of fossil fuel. The
the plant. Successful, cost-effective investment
probable substitutive option for fossil fuel is endless
into energy-efficiency technologies and practices
solar energy or solar thermal energy which can be
meets the challenge of maintaining the output of
converted into electricity via.
a high quality product despite reduced production
In our country, natural
Electricity Electricity gas is used to produce
produced supply electricity so that
Polycrystalline / Mono- maximum textile
crystalline Solar panels of Inverter industry uses gas
Draw frame
1000 W generator and pressure
level is low at present.
Figure: Flow diagram of energy supply So we need alternative
sources of energy for
costs. This is especially important in the current continuous production and sustain our spinning
age, as energy-efficient technologies often industry and also reduce the production cost.
include “additional” benefits, such as increasing
Objectives with specific aims and possible outcome:
the productivity of the company or reducing the
materials consumption. • Apply Green energy on textile spinning process
In spinning mill, electricity consumption is in • To reduce the energy and electricity consumption
increasing trend, due to modernized machines and • To reduce the carbon-di-oxide emission
An Innovation Hub
A new ILO findings showed that Uzbekistan- the at the community level) related to social benefits,
sixth largest cotton producer in the world- has and 0.12 percent of respondents reported direct or
succeeded in eradicating systemic forced labor perceived threats by employers related to loss of
and systemic child labor during the 2021 cotton employment or wages.
production cycle. Earlier, almost two million people
The findings are the latest from the ILO Third-Party
are recruited each year for the annual cotton harvest
Monitoring project, which has been monitoring the
in Uzbekistan since the reform process of the
cotton harvest in Uzbekistan since 2015 under an
country’s cotton sector began seven years ago.
agreement with the World Bank.
Working conditions had improved since 2020. Only
five percent said that the conditions were worse than
the previous year which relates to transportation,
food, access to water, hygienic and other facilities.
One in eight people of working age in Uzbekistan
participated in the cotton harvest – the world’s
largest recruitment effort. Sixty-two per cent of
pickers were women, and the vast majority were
from rural areas, the report mentioned.
“Our collaboration has yielded good results –
Figure: A new ILO findings showed that Uzbekistan has succeeded because after 7 years, this year’s report shows that
in eradicating systemic forced labor and systemic child labor
during the 2021 cotton production cycle. Courtesy: ILO
Uzbek cotton is free from systemic child labour and
systemic forced labour,” said ILO Director-General
Under the leadership of President Shavkat Guy Ryder.
Mirziyoyev, the country has embarked on reforms
“There is now an opportunity for Uzbekistan to
that include the modernization of the country’s
realize its goal of moving up the value chain and to
former agricultural economic model and the
create millions of decent full-time jobs in textile and
eradication of child labor and forced labor in the
garment manufacturing.”
annual cotton harvest that was previously prevalent.
The ILO Third-Party Monitoring project is
The forthcoming 2021 ILO Third-Party Monitoring
implemented with support from the European
Report of the Cotton Harvest in Uzbekistan was
Union, the US State Department, the Government
made based on eleven thousand interviews with
of Switzerland, and Germany. It will conclude in May
cotton pickers. Of them, 99 percent of those involved
this year and by request of the government, and
in the 2021 cotton harvest, worked voluntarily.
workers’ and employers’ organizations in Uzbekistan
About one percent was subject to direct or a feasibility study for a Better Work programme will
perceived forms of force. The data shows that 0.47 be undertaken. The Better Work Programme is a joint
percent of respondents reported direct or perceived initiative of the ILO and The World Bank Group.
threats by Mahalla representatives (local officials
An Innovation Hub
“
sector, knitwear's contribution is According to Bangladesh Textile
higher than woven products, which Mills Association (BTMA) data,
means export growth is led by around 90% yarn demand for knit
knitwear products. The need for a strong
RMG and 35-40% yarn demand for
backward linkage
During the July- February period woven RMG are met by the country's
industry especially
of FY22, Knitwear products Primary Textile Sector (PTS).
for woven fabrics
contributed $15 billion or 54.80 "Woven products exporters are
became more
percent to total exports of $27.50 highly dependent on imports
prominent during the
billion. While woven products of raw materials for executing
Covid-19 pandemic,"
contributed 45.19 percent or export orders. Most of the woven
$12.42 billion to total RMG exports. fabrics are imported from China,"
In Just 10 years back, the woven Shahidullah Azim, Managing
sector contributed 50.30% or Director of Classic Fashion told the
$9.60 billion to overall exports of Textile Today.
over $19 billion in the fiscal year As a result, supply disruption with
2011-12, while knitwear products Md Mohammad Ali Khokon the Chinese affects Bangladesh's
contributed 49.69% or $9.48 billion. President, BTMA woven sector. To overcome
On the issue, economists and the challenge and reduce
Primary Textile Sector is able to supply
industry people blamed the lack of import dependency, we have to
about 90 percent of the demand
a strong backward linkage industry strengthen our capacity, said Azim,
of yarn," Faruque Hassan, BGMEA
in the segment. In addition, the also a vice president of BGMEA.
president told the Textile Today.
ongoing Covid-19 pandemic Recipe to grow
On the other hand, woven
expedited the growth of knitwear
products manufacturers are highly In growing simultaneously with
products as demands went up due
dependent on imports for fabrics, the knitwear sector, there is no
to people's longtime stay at home
which costs more. That is why alternative to new investment.
due to the travel restrictions.
export earnings from woven goods Economists laid emphasis on fresh
"Knitwear products export is have seen slower growth, said investments in backward linkage
doing better gradually in the last Hassan, also Managing Director of to reduce import dependence and
few years because of a strong Giant Group. technology upgradation.
backward linkage industry. The
An Innovation Hub
"Despite having vast opportunities It is good news for the RMG sector However, we are yet to meet the
and demands, Bangladesh is able mostly woven that the textile demands of the woven fabrics
to meet about 35% woven fabrics industry recorded an investment of from the local source. But we are
demands, which is over 90% in Tk5790 crore in 2021 to ensure the increasing capacity and making
case of knitwear," Centre for Policy supply of fabrics from local sources. huge investments as demands of
Dialogue (CPD) Research Director products made of recycled fiber
According to the Bangladesh
Khondaker Golam Moazzem told are increasing and becoming more
Textile Mills Association (BTMA)
The Textile Today. popular to the consumers, said the
data, a total of 26 primary textile
business leader.
Right now, textile millers have manufacturers invested Tk 5970
to focus on investment in woven crore in 2021. "Focus should be given on the
fabrics manufacturing. The fresh value addition and research
"The need for a strong backward
investment will improve the and development for turning
linkage industry especially for
country's production capacity. around from the setback. Market
woven fabrics became more
This will help reduce import diversification could be another
prominent during the Covid-19
dependency and increase tool," Zahid Husain, former Lead
pandemic," BTMA President Md
competitiveness in the global Economist, World Bank, Dhaka
Mohammad Ali Khokon told the
markets, said the economist. told the Textile Today.
Textile Today.
In addition, allowing foreign We should develop products that the
During the pandemic we supplied
investment could be a great tool global consumers are demanding,
fabrics and helped to keep the
as it needs more investment to while the exporters have to follow
factory running and meet the lead
set up textile mills as well as high the global fashion trends that are
time, said Ali, also the Managing
technology, said Moazzem. taking the lead, he added.
Director of the Maksons Group.
An Innovation Hub
saurer.com
S u s t a i n a b l y To d a y
Whether it’s in our own personal lives or the fashion water-intensive crop. According to Transformers
brands we patron, lowering our water use is a Foundation, global averages about cotton’s
significant part of how we reduce our environmental environmental impact can be misleading, as they fail
impact. And it matters in the raw materials these to capture huge local variations in resource usage
brands and retailers decide to source. and impacts. While global data can be useful to tell
whether cotton’s overall impact is going up or down
Figure: U.S. cotton growers are continuously
decade over decade, content and local data are
improving their sustainability practices by employing
key1. Currently 2/3 of cotton grown in the U.S. is not
new technologies to their lower water use.
irrigated, utilizing natural rainfall to grow. Roughly
Contrary to popular belief, cotton is not a 1/3 uses irrigation to supplement natural rainfall and
only 2% is solely dependent on irrigation.
Water sensing technology helps growers map and
track where water is needed throughout their fields.
Irrigation scheduling technology and drip irrigation
ensure water is soaked into the ground. Growers can
also measure water evaporation from the soil and
plants. All these practices ensure growers are taking
advantage of every drop of water. Thanks to these
innovations and technologies U.S. cotton growers
have reduced water use by 79% over the past 35
years.
The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol aims to tell the true
story about U.S. cotton and its water use. With a
growing demand for transparency about brands’ and
retailers’ water use and their raw materials, the Trust
Protocol sets a new standard in more sustainably
grown cotton. It brings quantifiable and verifiable
goals and measurement to sustainable cotton
production and drives continuous improvement in
key sustainability metrics.
Figure: U.S. cotton growers are continuously improving their
sustainability practices by employing new technologies to their It is a system that underpins and verifies U.S. cotton’s
lower water use. sustainability progress through sophisticated data
An Innovation Hub
“
significant improvement in water use increasing
efficiency by 14%, compared to the 2025 U.S.
We track every drop of water National Goal for Continuous Improvement of
increasing efficiency by 18%.
that we apply to our fields
As a member of the Trust Protocol mills, merchants,
year-to-year. brands and retailers will gain access to U.S. cotton
with sustainability credentials proven via Field to
We’ve got soil probes in Market:
the field and use satellite The Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture, measured
imagery. We have an via the Fieldprint Calculator and verified with Control
Union Certifications.
agronomist that helps with
Mill and manufacturer members can also be
irrigation scheduling and identified as part of a fully transparent supply chain
crop coefficients. All of and selected by brands and retailers as they look to
source more sustainably grown U.S. cotton fiber.
these changes allow us to
In its first year the Trust Protocol has welcomed
eliminate waste and put more than 560 brand, retailer, mill and manufacturer
members since its launch in 2020. This includes
every drop of water to use.” J.Crew, Madewell, Levi Strauss & Co. and, Gap Inc.
as well as global apparel manufacturer Gildan. The
Aaron Barcellos Trust Protocol has also welcomed UK retailers Tesco,
Byford and Next Plc.
a Trust Protocol grower member
from California.
An Innovation Hub
Uster, Switzerland, 24th February 2022 – Looking very easily. Previously more time was needed to
for vital information in a busy textile mill can be create quality reports, which were then distributed
quick and easy – or a tedious job, turning minutes by email. “The information took too long to reach
into hours. Heavy e-mail traffic can just add to the the right people and was not always up to date. Now,
burden. That’s why leading Vietnamese producer the latest quality results are available in real time
Hoa Tho Textile chose Uster Quality Expert, to give and any required action can be taken immediately,”
fast access to centralized key data and drive major says Nguyen Huu Khanh, Manager of the Yarns
efficiency benefits. Technology Department at Hoa Tho Textile.
Founded in 1962, Hoa Tho is part of one of Vietnam’s The all-round view
largest and longest-established textile and garment
enterprises. Operating a number of mills, the Connecting to Uster Quality Expert is the route to
company wanted to ensure that quality standards effective all-round process optimization in textile
were equal across all of them – and equally high, to mills. The system expands its insightful analytics
serve customers in demanding markets such as the
USA, Europe, Japan and South Korea. So quality
management must be comprehensive, including
data from different locations as well as various
instruments and systems, for quick reports and smart
analysis.
An Innovation Hub
USTER TESTER 6
®
Uster provides the globally-acknowledged Uster The Total Testing Center™ – incorporated in the USTER ®
Statistics benchmarks for trading, textile know- TESTER 6 – combines results from laboratory tests with
how training, consulting and worldwide after-sales online data, providing 100 % quality control. It covers
services – always aspiring to fulfill the textile market’s all the spinning mill processes, and extends the options
needs, to drive innovation forward with ‘quality in mind’. as each instrument connects to the system. It’s a unique
business tool, transforming data into practical choices
Uster Technologies AG is headquartered in Uster,
for quality yarns and profitable production.
Switzerland and operates worldwide. It has sales and
service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and
The new USTER ® TESTER 6 sets new global standards
Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville
in evenness testing – and is the starting point for future
(USA), Suzhou (China) and Caesarea (Israel).
mill management.
www.uster.com/tester
P r o c e s s i n g To d a y
After the Stockholm declaration polluting the water, soil, air, are also in practice to improve
in 1972, the world issued its first and have a significant negative EMS and CMS practices of the
recognition that people have the impact on the biodiversity of the factories.
right to live in a good environment. surrounding locality.
But there are still so many
Since then many treaties such
To reduce the environmental challenges in proper environmental
as the Kyoto protocol, Montreal
impact of these factories, and chemical management in
protocol, Paris agreement, have
authorities and brands are working the textile production facilities in
been signed over the years to
hard to make production facilities Bangladesh.
“
conserve the livability of our
adopt standard environmental
environment. As the appeal to
management system (EMS) and
protect our soil, water, air from
chemical management system
various contamination has grown,
(CMS). Various guidelines such as There are some common
many environmental and chemical
National Chemical Management issues that hinder the
management systems have been
Guideline, Bangladesh implementation of EMS and
developed so. Governments,
Standards, Guidelines for Sludge CMS by the production house
industries, and various non-
Management, National Waste managers. The managers also
governmental organizations
Management Guideline have been face a lack of sufficient man
are working for ensuring
developed by the government capable manpower.
environmental sustainability by
of Bangladesh to facilitate
reducing the impact of various
the implementation of the
aspects of our livelihood on the
Environmental Conservation Act
environment.
Mohammad Waliullah
Auditor -Environment & Social
at Intertek Bangladesh
According to Mohammad
Waliullah, Auditor -Environment
& Social at Intertek Bangladesh
who has also worked in textile
factories and brands’ sustainability
department for several years,
said that there are some
common issues that hinder the
implementation of EMS and
Figure 1: Segregated chemicals in chemical store. CMS by the production house
managers. The managers also face
a lack of sufficient man capable
As the powerhouse of our and 3R Strategy. ZDHC Roadmap
manpower.
economy, the textile industry has to Zero, Sustainable Apparel
a huge environmental impact in Coalition, GIZ developed tools • Lack of understanding of
Bangladesh. Textile production like ZDHC MRSL, Wastewater current market demand for
facilities are responsible for guideline, Higg FEM, BHive, etc. sustainable sourcing,
An Innovation Hub
• Lack of the concept of should take regular updates It is also challenging for the
sustainable development, of sustainability performance factories to adopt different
from their managers. They sustainability monitoring tools
• Reluctance to long term
should be aware of the current for different brands. A common
initiatives to ensure sustainable
market demand for sustainable monitoring tool used by all brands
development,
“
manufacturing. could relieve the factories from
• Lack of training & awareness a huge hassle and make it easier
of environmental & chemical for them to meet environmental
management as well sustainable sustainability requirements.
Sometimes I feel alone
development,
while troubleshooting “At a time, we have to use different
Md. Rashedul Islam, Assistant and maintaining my ETP tools for a single purpose for
Manager, ECR at Comfit as well as performing the different buyers which causes--
Composite Knit Ltd said, responsibilities of EMS & in many cases--wastage of time
“Sometimes I feel alone while CMS with a single pair of and resources. For example, for
troubleshooting and maintaining hands.” chemical management we have
my ETP as well as performing the to use Clean chain, Bhive, Blusign
responsibilities of EMS & CMS with System, ZDHC Gateway for
a single pair of hands.” different buyers’ requirement,” Md.
Managing the workers is also a Rashedul Islam said.
big challenge in factories, they are Mohammad Waliullah demanded,
not sincere about their health and “EMS and ECR responsible
safety. They are very reluctant to personnel should be given direct
use personal protective equipment and easy access to the top
(PPE) during work in a hazardous Md. Rashedul Islam
management so that they can
environment. Assistant Manager, ECR at share their problems with them.”
Mohammad Waliullah thinks that Comfit Composite Knit Ltd.
Ensuring a proper Environmental
the workers need more training and chemical management
Government and brands need
and awareness programs to be system in factories is the basic
to be more stringent about
more sincere and practicing. requirement of sustainable
the factories’ environmental
Factory top management also performance before issuing textile production. Technically
needs to be sincere about operating permission and competent professionals need to
their factory’s environmental purchase orders to make for this. be recruited to make it feasible in
performance. Top management the industries.
Summit Alliance Port Limited Asia, Brazil, USA and West Africa bales weighing approximately 1.85
(SAPL) began handling of break- due to the disruption in global million metric tonne and this figure
bulk raw cotton from India with supply-chain, unavailability of is projected to cross 9 million
alternative logistics solution containers and historically high metric tonne bales in the current
for Bangladesh’s spinning mills freight-rates.” year due to the strong rise in
and readymade garment (RMG) demand for yarn and fabrics from
“As a result, the market demand
sectors’ industrial raw materials, the local RMG exporters.
of raw cotton from India has
said a statement. .
increased tremendously in the last The inland river route from
On the launching occasion on few years. We are supporting the Kolkata to Muktarpur provides an
3 March, Summit Alliance Port industries by providing alternate unparalleled safe passage for the
managing Director Jowher Rizvi and environmentally sustainable raw cotton cargo throughout the
said, “This new service by SAPL sourcing while avoiding regular year that is a guaranteed and time-
Muktarpur Terminal comes at a congestion at the land ports,” he bound option which is not possible
time when the Bangladeshi raw added. on the traditional sea route for
cotton importers who are finding container shipments or via land
In 2021, Bangladesh imported
it challenging to import from ports.
8.5 million metric tonne cotton
traditional sources such as Central
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It is made from pineapple leaves developed by Dr. Orange Fiber won the 2015 Global Change Award by
Carmen Hijosa and manufactured under Ananas the H&M Foundation for its ingenious combination
Anam. Pineapple leaf fiber distracted mechanically, of Italian heritage – textiles and food. The innovative
then washed and dried before being purified using and sustainable fabrics developed by the Italian
enzymes. Its production cuts down on waste (5% company Orange Fiber. Adriana Santanocito and
compared to 25% of real leather) and it can be Enrica Arena, the founder of the company, launched
recycled into fertilizer. a citrus capsule collection making it the first fashion
house to use Orange Fiber fabrics.
The fabric is water-resistant and breathable, yet light
with superb tensile strength. It has already caught Each year, over 700,000 tons of citrus juice
the attention and been used by top brands including by-product is wasted in Italy, costing both the
Nike and Hugo Boss. processing industry and the environment. Then they
Transformed trash into their treasure. Orange fiber
Mycelium from mushrooms
applies knowledge in the textiles sector to discarded
Mycelium is the branching underground root system citrus peel to produce a lightweight cellulose yarn
of mushrooms developed by textile fiber company, that is ethereal, soft, and silky.
Bolt Threads, manufacturing by Mylo and involves
Highly versatile, the resulting fabric echoes the
recreating the growing conditions of mycelium’s
exquisite high-end fabrics used in premium and
natural habitat by using the forest floor but in a lab.
luxury fashion brands. Besides everything, the fabric
The whole process takes just a few weeks instead is biodegradable and ultimately forms a closed-loop
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Lessening CO2 emissions through reducing Qudrat A Mazid, Founder & Managing Director, Solar
dependence on traditional energy sources has been EPC and Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today
a growing talk globally. And renewable energy has signed on behalf of the respective companies at
garnered momentum – as it caters to various fronts Solar EPC office premise on 15 March.
effectively. Most imploringly saving the environment
This association between SEPC and Textile Today
by reducing CO2 emission and producing energy in a
will quicken the implementation of more solar
cost-effective way.
power projects and related innovations in the T&A
In Bangladesh, non-stop electricity supply is still industry. And advance with a number of innovative
unstable. Additionally, the electricity price is unstable projects with the Textile Today Innovation Hub. Thus,
and it can rise at any time. Both of which is a must benefitting the T&A industry by providing solar
in Bangladesh textile and apparel
(T&A) industry.
Having said that, since 2019, Solar OUR KEY FEATURES
EPC Development Ltd. (SEPC) –
leading and fastest-growing solar
power project developer and Site Survey & Detailed System Design Installation & Commission
Assessment & Financial Analysis Through Expert Team
consultancy firm – has recently
become a Textile Today Associate
(TTA) to discover innovation Affordable & Bankable Focused on Consumer Policy Implementation
Solar Solution Awareness with Higher Standard
opportunities in the renewable
energy sector in T&A industry
through Textile Today Innovation Complementary O&M Dedicated Operations & Quality Assurance
Hub. Service Maintenance Team
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energy in an efficient and cost-effective way. EPC Development Ltd. as associates of Textile Today
Innovation Hub.”
Solar EPC Development Ltd. is one of the foremost
and fastest-growing solar power project developers “I believe this association will bring innovative
and consultancy firms in Bangladesh. ISO Certified and sustainable STB projects in solar power areas
SEPC is associated with renowned and reputed as ‘sustainable energy’ has become a buzzword in
international Solar Project Developer, EPC Contractor Bangladesh's textile and apparel industry. The outcome
and Investors. The company aims for a better and of the project will help the industries to unearth
greener world with eco-friendly energy technologies. the effective ways to go forward with best possible
SEPC is the pioneer of floating solar in Bangladesh renewable energy technologies,” Tareq Amin added.
and implemented the first-ever floating solar project
Becoming a part of this ‘Innovation Hub’ Textile Today
in Bangladesh (10 KW).
Associates will be allowed to utilize the platform’s
SEPC has an experienced operations and knowledge, communication, and networking leverage
maintenance division, which takes preventive in the market as an innovation-driven business.
and corrective maintenance services for solar
In the memento handover ceremony Samiha Fairooz
power plants. Besides, the company provides
Adhurika, Business Analyst – New Initiative I C&I
advisory services for project feasibility study, pre-
Solar PV Rooftop Project; Imran AAfrat, Project
development, detailed design and engineering, debt
Engineer, Solar EPC Development Ltd., Amzad Hossain
financing, project management, etc.
Monir, Head of Business Development, Sayed Abdullah,
Tareq Amin said, “We are very happy to have Solar Asst. Manager, Editorial, Textile Today were present.
ZDHC Roadmap to Zero is pleased to announce its • Building ZDHC Programme Excellence
third Regional Conference on 29th April 2022 at The
• Scaling ZDHC adoption and accelerating impact
Lalit Hotel, Sahar Road, Andheri East, Mumbai, India.
The theme of the conference is “Moving together to • Apparel Alliance collaboration – the key to the future
create a better planet”. • ZDHC engagement model
Chemicals impact our planet in terms of clean water, • Brand journeys with ZDHC
clean air and clean soil, hazardous waste, worker
• Role of stakeholders in accelerating ZDHC
safety, circularity, biodiversity preservation and climate
change (through GHG emissions). Sound chemical • Innovations in sustainable chemistry, machinery
management is at the heart of reducing these impacts (waterless dyeing technology), process optimization
on the environment. The conference will showcase how & resource efficiency and wastewater treatment
the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme is ensuring technologies
that textile & leather production activities and a safer • Tools for implementing sound chemical
planet can co-exist. management at a factory
Representatives from all stakeholders in the textile The conference will end with a visual experience on the
and leather value chain – Brands, manufacturers, theme through a dance ballet.
chemical formulators, solution providers, industry
Registrations to the Conference are now open
associations and academia – are expected to attend
through the Events page on the ZDHC website www.
this conference, where industry experts and peers will
roadmaptozero.com. Go to “Resources” tab and click
speak and debate on how we can collaborate and join
on “Events”. If not registered on the tool, you can
forces to create a better planet through best practices
‘create account’ and then log-in with your credentials
and innovations in sustainable chemical management.
to ‘book an event’.
Dipali Goenka, CEO & Jt MD at Welspun India, will be
our keynote speaker. The Conference can be attended in -person OR virtual.
The delegate fee for in-person attendance is Euro 60/-
The event will be held in- person but will also be
(Early bird fee till 15th April 2022), while for the ‘Virtual’
streamed live through the ZDHC Virtual Platform for a
option through our Virtual Platform, it is Euro 40/- per
global audience. The topics that will be covered are:
delegate.
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Bangladesh's readymade garment (RMG) exports to Top 3 apparel exporting countries in USA Jan 2022
the USA upheld an impressive growth - both in terms (In $bn) Source: OTEXA
of value and volume - in January 2022. In terms of
2.0 1.9
export growth, the country outshined its rivals China
and Vietnam. 1.5
1.27
As per the OTEXA data, the USA imported $756
million worth of apparel items from Bangladesh in
1.0 0.76
January 2022. Witnessing an impressive 45.53% 0.5
growth. While the country exported $519 million
RMG goods in January 2021. 0.0
China Vietnam Bangladesh
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-India
Plot No. 559 , Opp Road No. 9 , Kathwada GIDC ,
Ahmedabad 382 430 ( Gujarat ) India
E x p o r t s Awa r d s E v e n t To d a y
Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation Malek Spinning Group won the award for excellence
(HSBC) Ltd. honored Envoy Textiles Limited, Pacific in sustainability.
Jeans Group and Malek Spinning Group at the 2nd
Tipu Munshi, MP, Honourable Commerce Minister was
HSBC Business Excellence Awards.
the chief guest at the event. While Zunaid Ahmed
Envoy Textiles Limited has been awarded the Palak, MP, Honourable State Minister, Information and
2nd HSBC Business Excellence Award on Export Communications Technology Division as guest of
Excellence in Supply Chain and Backward Linkage, honour. H.E. Robert Chatterton Dickson, British High
2022 category, for having an annual export turnover Commissioner to Bangladesh and Md. Jashim Uddin,
of more than $10 million. President, FBCCI were present as special guests.
While Pacific Jeans Group won in the category of The award giving ceremony was adorned with the
export excellence in readymade garments (RMG) for presence of and Amanda Murphy, General Manager,
having an annual export turnover of more than $50 Head of Commercial Banking, HSBC, South and
million. South East Asia also joined the program.
Figure 1: Kutubuddin Ahmed, Chairman of Envoy Textiles Limited Figure 2: Tanvir Ahmed, Director of Envoy Textiles & BGMEA, and
receiving the award from Tipu Munshi. the senior management team of the company were also present.
PTEC Career Club organizes expert talk on denim and garments washing
Md. Al-Amin, PTEC Campus Correspondent
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During the first half (H1) of the current FY 2021-22, The value addition of the knitwear sub-sector is
the value addition percentage further reduced to higher than the woven segment, as the former
55.80%, as net RMG exports stood at $11.10 billion sources 80 percent of its required raw materials from
against exports worth $19.90 billion and raw material the local market, while woven is largely dependent
imports worth $8.79 billion. on imported fabrics, they noted.
While the value addition remained almost stationary Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters
between 60% and 64% from FY 2012-13 to FY 2018- Association (BGMEA) Vice President Md Shahidullah
19, the data also showed. And in FY 19, the value Azim said to media that the prices of raw materials
addition remained lower than the pre-pandemic have significantly gone up during the last two years -
64.32 percent, data showed. mainly because of the pandemic.
The central bank considered the main head value of "Though we have been getting huge volume of
the components (raw cotton, synthetic/viscose fibre, work orders, prices of finished products have
synthetic/mixed yarn, cotton yarn, textile fabrics, not increased in line with the high prices of raw
and accessories for garments) instead of only raw materials. The sky-rocketing raw material prices have
materials - brought through back to back L/Cs, eaten up our value addition."
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TEXTILE TODAY
Transforming Human Capital
House-25A (2 Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh
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De
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TICC, a consortium for textile and apparel manufacturers, plays role as an Innovation scopes:
executive platform. It drives innovations in a systematic approach. TICC i) Resource or cost optimization
capacitates its partners to form a concentrated team to steer innovations. ii) Process standardization
The platform equips the team with the innovation tools, techniques and iii) SOP development
other resources to build a sustainable innovation culture. The consortium iv) Problem solving
connects the Innovation Circles through required workshops, seminars v) Productivity Improvement
and conferences to make the process effective and sustainable. vi) Sustainability etc.
House-25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh
+88 02 55093682, 01775 999 748 | info@textiletoday.com.bd | www.textiletoday.com.bd
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our responsibility
we are always striving to deliver
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