«Bun» doll patterN

AUTHOR JULIA MYAZINA

https://www.instagram.com/julja_myzina/
 The Pattern of this crocheted doll is copyrighted and
not subject to distribution by third parties
CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS:
MR – magic/amigurumi ring;
CH – chain;
SC - single crochet;
DC - double crochet;
HDC - half double crochet;
INC - increase;
DEC – decrease (I use invisible decreases);
TDEC - treble decrease;
SL ST – slip stitch, connecting column;
FLO - front half loop (half loop closest to you);
BLO - back half loop (half loop farthest from you)
St – stitch, Sts - stitches

materials:
yarn “PEHORKA Openwork” color 68 (50gm / 280m);
copper electric wire size 1mm - 70 cm;
scissors;
hook 0,6 мм;
fabric tape;
stuffing;
pliers;
skewers of a different size.

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 Attention!!!
All crochet takes place on the wrong side, so the doll will come out neater,
especially face (if you do not know how to crochet on the wrong side,
When crocheting with the above materials, your doll will be about 15 cm.
Use thicker or thinner materials if you want to change the size of the doll.

In the process of crocheting, you may be faced with the fact, that the
paired parts of the doll (legs, arms) could differ in lengths or thicknesses.
This is due to the fact, that on different days or even within the same day,
the thread tension in your hands changes. So, I advise you to crochet
two paired parts of the doll in parallel (i.e. crochet several rows of
one leg, then set it aside and crochet several rows of the other leg).

In this pattern, I crochet with the so-called "check marks". This

crocheting comes out less dense. There is also crocheting
with "crosses", it comes out denser, but, for example, it will be
very difficult to embroider a face.

If during crocheting your doll knees (or nose for example) will be
in the wrong place, that mean you should work a few offset stitches
to place the knees in the right position. After that you just finish
the row following the pattern, place the marker in the new position
and continue to crochet “as nothing happen”. That is fine, because
we all crochet differently.

P.S. I use two size of the skewer (thick and thin). A thin skewer is more convenient
for stuffing small parts. Also, for your convenience, I advise you to break off the
tips of both skewers, so it will be easier to tamp the stuffing.

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 arms
right arm:
Watch the video PART 1: “Right arm”. You can also watch the video
called “HAND”, in this video uses a thick thread, so you can see the
sts clearer.

PINKY: 4 CH, 3 sl st in the chain. (3)

RING FINGER: 5 CH, 4 sl st in the chain. (4)

MIDDLE FINGER: 5 CH, 4 sl st in the chain. (4)

FOREFINGER: 5CH, 4 sl st in the chain. (4)

1) 3 sc on one side of the fingers, 4 sc on the other side. (7) - place the
marker

2) (4 CH, 3 sl st in the chain), 7 sc. (7)

3) 2 sc in the thumb, 7 sc. (9)

4) 2 dec, sc, dec, 2 sc. (6)

5) 6 sc. (6)

6) 3 sc, inc, 2 sc. (7) - inc should be above the pinky, if it is not, then
work some offset sts

7)-9) 7 sc. (7)

10) 4 sc, inc, 2 sc. (8)

11) 8 sc. (8)

12) dec, 6 sc. (7)

13) inc, 6 sc. (8)

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14)-19) 8 sc. (8)

20) 4 sc - in this row work a few more or less sts to reach the middle
of the armpit (if it is needed), make sl st, CH and cut the thread.

left arm:
Watch the video PART 2: “Left arm”.

FOREFINGER: 5 CH, 4 sl st in the chain. (4)

MIDDLE FINGER: 5 CH, 4 sl st in the chain. (4)

RING FINGER: 5 CH, 4 sl st in the chain. (4)

PINKY: 4 CH, 3 sl st in the chain. (3)

1) 3 sc on one side of the fingers, 4 sc on the other side. (7) - place a

marker

2) 3 sc, (4 CH, 3 sl st in the chain), 4 sc. (7)

3) 3 sc, 2 sc in the thumb, 4 sc. (9)

4) sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, dec. (6)

5) 6 sc. (6)

6) 5 sc, inc. (7) - inc should be above the pinky, if it is not, then work
some offset sts

7)-9) 7 sc. (7)

10) 6 sc, inc. (8)

11) 8 sc. (8)

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12) 3 sc, dec, 3 sc. (7)
13) 3 sc, inc, 3 sc. (8)
14) - 19) 8 sc. (8)

20) 3 sc. (3) - in this row work a few more or less sts to reach the
middle of the armpit (if it is needed), make sl st, CH and cut the
thread.

LEGS
LEFT LEG:
Watch the video PART 3: “Left leg”.

Make 4 CH and begin to crochet in the second st from the hook:

1) inc, sc, 3 sc in one st, sc, inc. (9)

2) sc, (inc, 2 sc)*2, inc, sc. (12)

3) 12 sc in FLO. (12) - place a marker

4) 5 sc, dec, 5 sc. (11)

5) 5 sc, dec, 4 sc. (10)

6) inc, 9 sc. (11) - inc should be located in the back of the leg

7) 11 sc. (11)

8) 9 sc, inc, sc. (12)

9) 12 sc. (12)

Cut the wire about 16 cm long (or more for sure). Bend this wire as
shown in the video and put it in the foot.

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 Stuff the foot.

10) sc, inc, 10 sc. (13)

11) 13 sc. (13)

12) 11 sc, inc, sc. (14)

13) 14 sc. (14)

14) 2 sc, inc, 11 sc. (15)

15)-16) 15 sc. (15) - stuff the leg

17) dec, 13 sc. (14) - dec should be located in the back of the leg

18) dec, 12 sc. (13)

19) dec, 4 sc, 3 inc in BLO, 4 sc. (15) - stuff the leg

20) inc, 4 sc, (dec, 2 sc)*2, inc, sc. (15)

21) sc, inc, 13 sc. (16) - inc should be located in the back of the leg

22) 14 sc, inc, sc. (17)

23) 17 sc. (17)

24) 2 sc, inc, 14 sc. (18)

25)-31) 18 sc. (18) - stuff the leg

32) 10 sc. - this row should end closer to the knee, if it’s not, then

work a few more sts, make sl st, CH and cut the thread.

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 right leg:
Watch the video PART 4:”Rright leg”.

Make 4 CH and begin to crochet in the second st from the hook:

1) inc, sc, 3 scin one st, sc, inc. (9)

2) sc, (inc, 2 sc)*2, inc, sc. (12)

3) 12 sc in FLO. (12) - place a marker

4) 5 sc, dec, 5 sc. (11)

5) 5 sc, dec, 4 sc. (10)

6) inc, 9 sc. (11) - inc should be located in the back of the leg

7) 11 sc. (11)

8) 3 sc, inc, 7 sc. (12)

9) 12 sc. (12)

Cut the wire about 12 cm long (or more for sure). Bend this wire as

shown in the video and put it in the foot. Stuff the foot.

10) sc, inc, 10 sc. (13)

11) 13 sc. (13)

12) 5 sc, inc, 7 sc. (14)

13) 14 sc. (14)

14) 2 sc, inc, 11 sc. (15)

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15)-16) 15 sc. (15) - stuff it

17) 3 sc, dec, 10 sc. (14) - dec should be located in the back of the leg

18) 3 sc, dec, 9 sc. (13)

19) 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, 3 inc in BLO, sc. (15)

20) 3 sc, inc, sc, inc, (2 sc, dec)*2, sc. (15)

21) 4 sc, inc, 10 sc. (16) - inc should be located in the back of the leg

22) 8 sc, inc, 7 sc. (17)

23) 17 sc. (17)

24) 5 sc, inc, 11 sc. (18)

25)-31) 18 sc. (18)

32) 2 sc. - this row should end not in the middle of the thigh, but closer
to the knee, if it’s not, then work a few more sts, make sl st, CH and cut
the thread. DON”T CUT THE THREAD!

body
Watch the video Part 5.1: “Body”.

Work 4 CH from the right leg, then continue to crochet on the left leg
(starting from the end of the 32 row of the left leg).

1) 14 sc, 3 inc in BLO, sc, 4 sc in the chain, sc, 3 inc in BLO, 14 sc, 4 sc
in the chain. (50) - place a marker

2) 50 sc. (50)

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3) 14 sc, (inc, sc)*3, 6 sc, (sc, inc)*3, 18 sc. (56)

4) 56 sc. (56)

5) 9 sc, dec, 30 sc, dec, 13 sc. (54)

6) 13 sc, dec, 3 sc, skip 14 sts, 3 sc, dec, 17 sc. (38) - there is no need
to sew the hole after skipping sts, stuff the upper part of the thighs

Connect those 2 wires from legs with tape (but tape only 1 cm high,
not the full wire length).

7) 38 sc. (38)

8) 11 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 15 sc. (36)

9) 36 sc. (36)

10) 10 sc, 6 dec, 14 sc. (30)

11) 7 sc, 6 dec, 11 sc. (24)

12) 6 sc, 4 dec, 10 sc. (20)

13) 3 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 6 sc. (22) - inc should be located on the sides of
the body

14) 4 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 7 sc. (24)

15)-16) 24 sc. (24) - stuff it

Watch the video Part 5.2: “Body”.

17) 5 sc, 2 sc (left arm+body), 9 sc, 2 sc (right arm+body), 6 sc. (24)

18) 5 sc, 6 sc in the left soulder, 9 sc, 6 sc in the right shoulder, 6 sc.
(32)

19)-20) 32 sc. (32)

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 Uncover 12-13 cm of wire or take a copper wire without cover. Bend
both ends of this wire for 0,5 cm. Put this wire in the arms between 2
wires from the legs. Connect 2 wires from the body with a tape above
the arms wire. Stuff the arms with a help of toothpick. Stuff only the
upper part of the forearm and sholder.

21) 3 sc, 5 dec, 5 sc, 5 dec, 4 sc. (22)

22) 10 dec, 2 sc. (12) - stuff the chest tight

23)-26) 12 sc. (12) - stuff the neck

27) (dec, sc)*4. (8)

28)-41) 8 sc. (8)

If there’s still remains an excess wire after the last row, then just
cut it off. Cut the thread and close the hole.

HEAD
Watch the video PART 6.1: “Head”.

Work 12 CH, close this chain in the ring with a sl st. Then make 1CH
and begin to crochet:

1)-2) 12 sc, sl st, CH. (12)

3)-4) 12 sc. (12)

5) In FLO all this row: (sc, inc)*2, sc, 3 sc in one st, sc, (inc, sc)*2, inc.
(19) - place a marker

6) sc, inc, 2 sc, (3 sc in one st, 3 sc)*2, 3 sc in one st, 2 sc, inc, 3 sc.
(27)

7) 6 sc, inc, 5 sc, 3 sc in one st, 5 sc, inc, 8 sc. (31)

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8) 10 sc, inc, 3 sc, 3 sc in one st, 3 sc, inc, 12 sc. (35)

9) 7 sc, inc, 8 sc, 3 sc in one st, 8 sc, inc, 9 sc. (39)

10) 7 sc, inc, 10 sc, 3 sc in one st, 10 sc, inc, 9 sc. (43)

11) (sc, inc)*2, 9 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, 9 sc, (inc, sc)*2, inc. (50)

12) (inc, 2 sc)*3, 30 sc, (2 sc, inc)*3, 2 sc. (56)

13) (inc, 3 sc)*3, 30 sc, (3 sc, inc)*3, 2 sc. (62)

14)-15) 62 sc. (62)

16) (inc, 4 sc)*3, 4 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 4 sc, (4 sc, inc)*3, 2 sc. (70)

17) 33 sc, 3 sc in one st, 36 sc. (72) - if “3 sc in one st” is not centered
above the chin, then work a few offset sts

18) 33 sc, (above the nose: skip 1 st, sc, skip 1 st), 36 sc. (70)

19) 16 sc, inc, 8 sc, dec, sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, sc, dec, 8 sc, inc, 19 sc.
(68)

Watch the video PART 6.2: “Head”.

20)-21) 68 sc. (68)

22) 26 sc, inc, 11 sc, inc, 29 sc. (70)

23)-31) 70 sc. (70)

Tuck inside the first 4 rows of the head, as shown in the video.

32) (dec, 12 sc)*5. (65)

33) (dec, 11 sc)*5. (60)

Watch the video PART 6.1: “Head”.

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34) (dec, 10 sc)*5. (55)

35) (dec, 9 sc)*5. (50)

36) (dec, 8 sc)*5. (45)

37) (dec, 7 sc)*5. (40)

38) (dec, 6 sc)*5. (35) - put the head on the neck pin or a skewer
and stuff it tight

39) (dec, 5 sc)*5. (30)

40) (dec, 4 sc)*5. (25)

41) (dec, 3 sc)*5. (20)

42) (dec, 2 sc)*5. (15) - stuff it

43) (dec, sc)*5. (10)

44) 5 dec. (5)

Cut the thread, close the hole. Hide the remaining hole in the head.

face embroidery
materials:
embroidery threads: black, white, brown, dark green, green, light
green.
scissors;
marker for fabric;
needle;
F-6000, B-6000 or Е-6000 adhesive.

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 Watch the videos PART 7.1, 7.2, 7.3, 7.4. In those videos you find
how you embroider eyes and eyebrows, and how to crochet lips and
ears.

LEFT EAR: 1) in MR: sc, 5 dc, sc, CH, turn. (7)

2) 6 sc, sl st, cut the thread. (7)

RIGHT EAR: 1) in MR: sc, 5 dc, sc, CH, turn. (7)

2) sl st, 6 sc, CH, cut the thread. (7)

Tie the MR and shape the ears with your fingers making them look
like real once. Count 15 sts to the left and to the right from the nose,
and mark out were the ears will be located. Fix the ears with the ends
of threads from ears. Then glue them or sew them to the head to fix
them better.

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 EYELASHES (STEP 1)
materials:
Embroidery threads or sewing threads (the color you want the
doll's eyelashes to be);
Scissors;
Tailor's pins;
Acrylic varnish or PVA glue;
Paint brush (or something other you will use to apply varnish
to the eyelashes);
Stick from a helium pen or a wooden skewer.

Make eyelashes in 2 stages. It is more convenient to perform the

first stage before attaching the hair, the second stage is performed
after attaching the hair.
Watch the videos PART 8.1, 8.2 to how to make eyelashes.

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 attaching of the hair
materials:
Mohair curls about 15-20 gm (depends on the curls length);
Scissors;
Marker for fabric;
Tailor’s pins:
F-6000, В-6000 or B-7000 adhesive.

If you would like to make the hair from acrylic yarn yourself,
then you can watch the video on my channel by clicking on the
link--> https://youtu.be/wH9E0LE_SdY

P.S. I would also like to note that acrylic hair should be used only for interior
dolls, as they require special care.
Watch the videos PART 8.1 to how to make and attach mohair
weft.

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 eyelashes (step 2)
After attaching the hair, you proceed to the second stage of
creating the eyelashes.
Take a rod from a helium pen or a wooden skewer. Cut off 2 pieces
of 2 cm. Put these pieces under the eyelashes (this is necessary in
order to give the eyelashes a bend and so that they do not stick to the
head).
Then you take acrylic varnish (or PVA glue) and a brush. When
using a brush, apply varnish to the eyelashes (but not to the entire
length, but only to the one you plan to leave). Soak the lashes at the
base thoroughly. Stretch and secure each lash strand with Tailor's
pins so that the threads do not touch each other, otherwise they may
stick together.
Wait until the eyelashes are completely dry or use a hair dryer.
Then remove all the pins and remove the rollers from under the
lashes. Use scissors to trim off excess lashes. If some eyelashes are
still flattened, then just wind them on a knitting needle or something
like that. If a film of glue remains between the eyelashes, gently
remove it with tweezers.

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 shading
You can use eyeshadows, dry pastel or blushes. I prefer to use
blushed, because they have a low pigmentation (you can not be afraid
to overdo it with tone). And pastel, in turn, I use for shading the details
of clothing, as it has more intense and persistent shades.

You will also need brushes of different sizes and matte acrylic
varnish to cover the paintings (or PVA glue), to fix the shading.
If you do not plan to varnish your face and body after shading, then
you can apply more pigment. Well, if you use varnish, then the
pigment should be applied less, since it darkens a little from varnish.

I recommend shading the following areas of the face:

· Cheeks;
· Protruding part of the chin;
· Ears;
· Hair growth line;
· Bridge of the nose;
· Under the lower eyelid;
· Over the upper eyelid;
· Above the upper lip;
· Under the lower lip;

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· In the corners of the lips;
· Between the lips (I like to use red pastel);
· Under the nose;
· Under the eyebrows (you can also slightly tint the tip of the eyebrow so
that there is a smooth color transition);
· You can also tint the iris area with a dark color under the upper eyelid,
if suddenly your doll has too wide-open (surprised) eyes.

For the body, I also recommend applying tone, as this will make
the curves of the doll more expressive.

The tone is applied to the following areas:

· Elbows and their bends;
· Brushes;
· Palms;
· Armpits;
· Neck;
· Clavicle;
· Under the breast and between;
· The navel;
· Groin area;
· Buttocks;
· Knees and bend under the knees;
· Ankles;
· Toes.

If you want your doll not to lose its shade (especially if the doll is a
play doll, not an interior doll), then the places where the tone is
applied should be covered with acrylic varnish (or PVA glue with
water).

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 Apply the varnish with a hammering motion. Especially carefully it is
necessary to apply varnish on the face, otherwise the shading may
"float". While you are applying the varnish on the doll’s face, you can
straighten the nose again with your fingers and give the desired shape
(before the varnish dries). You can also varnish the pin on which the
head is put on to make it stiffer.
It is imperative to varnish the doll's fingers so that they become
thin, neat and do not curl. To do this, apply a generous amount of
varnish to the fingers, as well as the entire palm of the doll. Let the
varnish soak for 5 minutes. Then press each finger of the doll with
round-nose pliers or your own fingers (see photo below). We also give
the shape of the palm, without waiting for the varnish to dry. To do this,
press the doll's thumb to the center of the palm.

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