= Temperature and density share an inverse relationship. ‘© As temperature increases, the space between water molecules increases (hence volume increases) which therefore decreases the salinity © Ifthe temperature of water decreases its density increases, but only to a point. © Ata temperature of 4°C pure water reaches its maximum or peak density, cooled further it expands and becomes less dense than the surrounding water which is why when water freezes at 0°C it foats. Density = Mass/Volume © Example = Let the mass of a definite water body is 10 and volume is 5, which gives density is equal to 2. If the volume increases to 10 keeping mass constant, the density reduces to 1 Salinity and density share a positive relationship. ‘© AS density increases, the amount of salts in the water (also known as salinity), increases. The ocean water is constantly chuming underneath, bringing nutrients up to the top. © The difference in density of coli water versus density of warmer water is responsible for ocean currents and upwelling © Warm seawater floats and cold (4° C), dense (1 glcm3) seawater sinks, so ocean temperatures also vary across the surface and into the depths. Variation of density, salinity, and temperature with the oceanic depth ocean * %. \\e= a — a = censiyy 4 —- seer = semperaeure = sonar —= str «When the temperature, density or salinity of a layer changes rapialy, this region is referred to as a cline + Thermoclines are areas of rapid change in iemperature. Areas of rapid change in density are pychoclines and areas of rapid change in salinity are halociines. Tp ome farms y= satiny — consity # a OCEANIC MOVEMENT = aonsity tow temp The ocean water is dynamic and its movement is influenced by physical characteristics like temperature, salinity, density and the external forces like of the sun, moon and the winds. The horizontal and vertical motions are common in ocean water bodies. The horizontal motion refers to the ocean currents and waves. sCowssOn:snonjasin Pal eoapy >Water moves ahead from one place to another through ocean currents while the water in the waves does not move, but the wave trains move ahead. The vertical motion refers to tides (rise and fall of water in the oceans and seas) and upwelling Due to attraction of the sun and the moon, the ocean water is raised up and falls down twice a day The upwelling of cold water from subsurface and the sinking of surface water are also forms of vertical ‘motion of ocean water. | Lo deal | | Important terminologies related to wave Crest and Trough: The highest and lowest points of a wave are called the crest and trough respectively. Wave height: it is the vertical distance trom the bottom of a trough to the top of a crest of a wave. Wave amplitude: Its one-half of the wave height. Wave period: It is the time interval between two successive wave crests or troughs. Wavelength: Itis the horizontal distance between two successive crests. Wave frequency: Its the number of waves passing a given point during one second time interval | Down and beckward motion as ‘wave trough passes by ae ay + Vertical currentsarise mainlydue _todensity differencescausedby __temperatureandsalinity changes. WAVES, + Waves are formed due to friction between wind and surface water layer. + The stronger the wind, the bigger the wave. + They die out quickly on reaching shore or shallow waters. + Actual motion of water beneath the wave is circular. ] lated Up and forwerd motion as ‘wave crest passes by f ares | Direction of wave mation a” 8 | Wavetngt $e) Si Sillwater —Crest_——Trough l level Foie path of Inaiveual water Imoleeue at ator Sirace Frequency: Number of wave crests passing pont A ‘er paint Beach second Period: Time require for wave crest at port Atoreach pont 8 112+ Wave speed: Itis the rate at which the wave moves Breaking of wave through the water. It is measured in knots. ‘When the depth of water is less than half the wavelength, the wave breaks, ‘Wavelongth eens Crest. Creat A Neovoment of wave eneroy Ape Tiel _ Waves of transition Waves of translation below half wavelength ‘Shallow depth shortens wavelength (2) (@epth less than one-half wavelenath) Waves incteases, they crowd together and eventually breaks. This breaking is called surt. 1. The size and force of the wave depends on 4, Swash: Once the wave breaks, the top fallen over part © Velocity of the wind is Carried over to the shore. This is called swash. © Duration of the wind 5, Backwash: As the water goes back to the sea, it is © Distance over which the wind blows unhindered called backwash (the fetcn) 2. Ifthe water is deep (so that bottom doesnt interfere ‘OCEAN CURRENT with the wave), winds blow over large distances for ‘Ocean current is a continuous, directed movement of longer time, waves are bigger. ‘ocean water masses that flow from one place to another circumnavigating the earth. The forces that initiate the Important effects by waves movement of water are: 1. Sea: Normally several rains of differing wave lengths 1. Wind and directional movements of waves occurs in seas. © The major ocean currents are wind-driven This overall irregular and chaotic wave pattern is currents, though some ocean currents result from called sea. density and salinity variations of water. 2. Swell: Ifthe wave moves away from the disturbance = The subtropical _high pressure cells_are Zone into a smooth zone, there appears a uniform responsible for many of the Earth's great paitern of equivalent wavelength and amplitude. This ocean currents, is called swell 2. Heating by solar energy 3. Surf: As the swell reaches shore, the pattern gets © Water expands under high temperature. disturbed due to friction from the shallow sea floor = Near equator, water is lighter than at the and the wave breaks. The lower part of the wave poles. travels more slowly than the upper part so its height= Near poles, water is cold hence denser and sinks down causing movement of water from equator towards the pole. © Cold water from pole flow towards equator at subsurface level, to balance loss of water at equator. 3. Salinity © Salinity increases density of water which sinks at depth = Less saline water move towards high saline water on the surface. = _ High saline water move towards less saline water at sub-surface © Equator > rainfall (less saline water) © Poles > iceberg (high saline water) 4, Thermohaline differences © Thermohaiine circulations are due to changes in density (result of changes in temperature and salinity), © Thermohaline circulations can be both - 1. Vertical (Le. upwelling or downwelling) 2. Horizontal (Ocean current movement) Qcean currents can be classified based on temperature ‘as cold currents and warm currents: 1. Warm currents bring warm water into_cold water areas and are usually observed on the east coast of Continents in the low and middie latitudes (true in both hemispheres). In the northern hemisphere, they are found on the west coasts of continents in high latitudes. 2. Cold currentsbring cold water into warm water areas These currents are usually found on the west coast of the continents in the low and middle latitudes (true in both hemispheres) and on the east coast in the higher latitudes in the Northern Hemisphere. Major Cold and Warm Global Ocean Currents fae Cold currents Warm cur 1. California Current 1. North Pacific Drift 12. West Wind Drift 2. Humboldt Current 2. North Equatorial Current 13. Monsoon Current 3. Labrador Current 3. Equatorial Countercurrent 14. Equatorial Countercurrent 4. Canaries Current 4 South Equatorial Current. 15. South Equatorial Current 5. Benguela Current 5. West Wind Drift 16. Mozambique Current 6. Falkland Current 6. Gulf Stream 17. West Wind Drift 7. West Australian Current 7. North Atlantic Drift 18. Japan Current B. Okhotsk Current 8. North Equatorial Current 19. North Equatorial Current 9. Equatorial Countercurrent 20. Equatorial Countercurrent 10. South Equatorial Current. 21. South Equatorial Current 1 Subtropical Gyres + The large, circular moving loops of water that are driven by the major wind belts of the world are called gyres which generally comprises of four main currents. + They rotate clockwise in the Northern Hemisphere and counter clockwise inthe Southern Hemisphere. World's five subtropical gyres: ‘1. The North Atlantic Subtropical Gyre or Sargasso sea (due to presence of seaweed called Sargasso on the surface) Brazil Current 22. East Australian Current 2. The South Atlantic Subtropical Gyre or Navigator gyre (after the Portuguese prince Henry, the avigator) 3. The North Pacific Subtropical Gyre or Turtle gyre 4, The South Pacific Subtropical Gyre or Hyerdahl gyre 5. The Indian Ocean Subtropical or Majid gyre ‘Sargasso Sea + The Sargasso Sea is a motionless sea confined to the sub-tropical north Atlantic gyre. The gyral system formed by the anti-cycionic circulation of oceanic water Cares Oneonta uns Gy tho ervzehy >.© Atmospheric stability due to it being located in the Iransition zone of the trade winds and_the \westerlies which is characterized by anfi-cycionic ‘conditions. © Hence, there are feeble winds which allow litle intermixing with waters outside the gyre. + Itis located entirely within the Atlantic Ocean, is the only sea without a land boundary. Equatorial Countercurrents Equatorial currents moves large volume of water westward. As a result water piles up along the westem margin of an ocean basin, which raises sea level on the westem side of the basin + The wateron the western margins then flows downhill_under the influence of gravity, creating narrow equatorial counter currents that flow to the east counter to and between the adjoining equatorial currents, North Indian Ocean Currents + Indian Ocean is half an ocean; hence the behavior of the North Indian Ocean Currents is different from that of Atlantic Ocean Currents or the Pacific Ocean Currents. + Seasonal monsoon winds peculiar to the Northern Indian Ocean region directly influence the ocean surface water movement. + Due to the seasonal change of ocean current circulation, North Indian Ocean Currents is important for sea-trade, cultural interaction. + During summer, wind and current flow towards India from Arabia in influence of strong south-west monsoon winds. © Sea vessel moves ffom Arabia to India by utlzing wind and ocean current + During winter, wind and current flow towards Arabia from India in influence of prevailing trade winds (easterly trade winds) © Sea vessel moves from India to Arabia by utlizing wind and ocean current Effects of ocean currents Meeting of cold and warm currents © Creates excellent fishing zones. + Kurishio (warm) + Oyashio (cold) + Labrador (cold) + Gulf Stream(warm) + Falkland (cold) + Brazilian(warm) © Mixing of cold and warm water creates fog. 2. Warming effect by warm current © This makes port operable near the adjacent areas in comparison of areas lying on the same latitude but at the locations where cold current flows. © Norway ports are operable in winter whereas ports in Russia freeze. 3. Dessicating effect by cold currents (an element for desert formation) Peru or Humboldt current = Atacama Desert Benguela current = Namib Desert Canary current = Sahara Desert California current = Mojave Desert UPWELLING AND DOWNWELLING Ekman spiral and transport + When the wind pushes the water in its direction, the surface layer begins to move but gets deflectedtowards the right (in North hemisphere) due to + Upwelling occurs where water from the deeper parts Coriolis Effect. of the ocean is allowed to travel upwards to the + This surface layer pulls along the layer immediately surface. below with it. But as that layer moves it gets deflected turther to right. Downwelling + Successive layers move progressively right until a layer moves 90° to the direction of the wind. This Is + Downwelling is the vertical movement of surface called Ekman spiral. ‘water to deeper parts of the ocean which occurs in the + Ekman transports the movement of the 90° layer. areas where waters converge and "pile up" West Coast Eoubomtonanboe Norther a ® w Upwelling Upwelling and nutrient enrichment at surface water West Coast Southern HemisphereFor More Visit -https://pdf4exams.ong Homies UPWELLING Seaward Surface Currents + «+ + Pend ONLYIAS.COM TIDES ‘+ The periodical rise and fall of the sea level, once or twice a day, mainly due to the attraction of the sun and the moon, is called a tide. © Cause of Tide = Gravitational Pull of Moon (major effect) and Sun (minor effect) + Centrifugal Force ‘+The gravitational pull and the centrifugal force (due to_inertia) working together are responsible for Creating the two major tidal bulges on the earth. + Tsunami, stom surge, and tides are tidal waves (Waves with large wavelengths that have greater intensity and destructive power) Ebb and Flood/Flow in open sea + Ebbis the tidal phase (time between high tide and low tide) during which the water level is falling. ‘+ Flood is the tidal phase (time between high tide and low tide) during which the water level is rising. In tidal inlet system un Courses On: video.onlyias.in info @onlias.com Winds from the North Pues) ore tC aoley “ow Tide + Ebbis the tidal phase (time between high tide and low tide) during which the tidal current is flowing seaward (ebb current). + Flood is the tidal phase time between high tide and low tide) during which the tidal current is flowing infand (flood current), MOON POSTION AND TIDE ‘Magnitude of tides based on Pengee and Apogee of earth Perigee tides are higher than apogee tides Physical Geography Dovrioases ster APORREKAMEOTE sort com+ When the earth is closest to the moon (Perigee), tidal ranges are also much greater, with unusually high and unusually low tides. + When the earth is farthest from the moon (apogee), tidal ranges are much less than average - — / (perigee moon EARTH sre) ™ ~agons : syzyay + Syzygy refers to the positions of the sun, earth, and ‘moon in a straight line. + Itoccurs when the sun, moon, and earth aligned in a same line as shown in figure. * occur twice a month 1. Conjuction — New moon 2. opposition — full moon + It causes spring tides (maximum tides due to the combined effect of gravitational force by sun and moon gravitation) ty Lunar bulge Sun ry moo New moon <@® O Saba syoey combined grovitationsl ge _ ul of the sun ond fahgor Oz ne Moon ‘S > tide “i low tide we Spring Tide Quadrature * Quadrature refers to the orthogonal positions of the sun and moon, + The forces of the sun and moon — counteract + Occurs on 7/8th Day of every fortnight. + It causes Neap tides are (minimum tides due to the counter effect of gravitational force by sun and moon). + There is a 7 Days interval between the spring tides and neap tides. “Solr bulge Third quaner moon le gravitational pul ofthe Moon Moon gravitational palate in 7 4 low tide SS high tide Neap Tide ‘SOME IMPORTANT CONCEPTS OF TIDE, 1. Tidal bore: When a tide enters a narrow and shallow estuary of a river, the front of the tide appears to be vertical (due to piling up of water because of bottom friction). This is called tidal bore. 2. Tidal current: When a gulf is connected with a sea through a narrow channel, during tides water flows in and out. This is called tidal current. 3. Kallakkadat: These are ocean swells which occur in Indian Ocean during Apri-May. They originate in South Indian Ocean due to storms and propagate northward with ocean currents. They get amplified as they reach shores. The flooding is most severe on spring tides. Tidal range * Difference between High tide and Low Tide. # Itdepends upon: 118For More Visit -https://pdf4exams.ong ONLYIAS.COM 4. Depth of ocean water 3. Openness and closeness of the sea 2. Configuration of coastiine info @onlias.com Spring Tides Neep Tides Largest Tidal Range Smallest Tidal Range Full and New Moon 1st and 3rd Quarter Moon eno mean sea level (MSL) The average level of low tide in ‘coastal regions is used to define standard elevations starting at 0.0 feet or 0.0 meters above or below sea level as shown on ‘topographic or bathymetric maps. Highest tidal range CORAL REEFS 7. World. Bay of Fundy 2. India: Gulf of Khambhat SE eee! _- Newfotindland CANADA _-—_ ore (ees ee Prince 7 > Edward |. t fh + Underwater structures made from calcium carbonate secreted by corals. + It often called “rainforests of the sea as they form some of the most diverse ecosystems on Earth. Nova + An individual coral is known as a polyp which has a Scotia symbiotic relationship with plant like cells called zooxanthellae. i © Polyp ingests tiny organisms called plankton & Atlantic other small creatures. UNITED / Ocean © Thousands of identical polyps live together and STATES b e form a coral colony. + Each polyp excretes a calcium carbonate exoskeleton beneath it. Over long periods of time, the skeletons of 1 jgourses On: video.onlyias.in Physical Geography Downloaded b brtps:f APOE XaMasONE ami com)