Bi-Phase Cleanser

What is a Bi-Phase Product?

The word ‘bi-phase’ means two phases. In cosmetics, that generally means an oil and
a water phase.
All liquids have a specific gravity. The specific gravity of water is 1, while most plant-
derived oils have a specific gravity of around 0.9. This means that the liquids don’t
blend and the oil floats on top of water, creating the two phases of a product.
When you create a cream or a lotion with two phases, you would use an emulsifier to
combine them. But with a bi-phase product you allow them to remain separate. The
customer then combines them by shaking the product for 10 seconds to activate the
two phases. You can keep it simple by blending 50% carrier oil with 50% hydrosol, or
you can blend in any of the additional ingredients such as essential oils, glycerites or
botanical extracts.

How do you use it?

The combination of oil and water make this an excellent solution for removing make-up.
Most make-up and facial grime is both water-based and oil-based. As such, a cleanser
needs to be a combination of both oil and water to work properly.

Most people would dab some of the activated bi-phase product onto cotton wool and
lightly sweep it over their face to remove make-up and any build-up of dirt.

Does it need a preservative?

When a bi-phase remover uses hydrosols (distilled flower waters), the oil floats on top
of the hydrosols, effectively creating an airlock and preventing oxygen from getting to
the water-phase of your bi-phase product. However, many bacteria, fungi and yeast
can still grow in absence of oxygen so don't assume that this will prevent any bacterial
growth.
Because you blend other water-soluble liquids, such as aloe vera juice, with the
hydrosols, the solution will definitely need a preservative.

Inspiration / Design Ideas

Let your imagination run riot and create a blend that uses your favourite ingredients!

Scent: Choose ingredients that work well together. For example, a floral cleanser with
rose and lavender hydrosols.
Botanicals: Choose ingredients that focus on specific plants. For example, a cleanser
with chamomile hydrosol, chamomile essential oil and chamomile extract.
Colour: Hydrosols generally don’t have a colour, but different carrier oils have different
colours, so you could layer the two phases in two distinct colours. For instance,
unrefined rosehip oil can be deep red, macerated calendula or carrot oil is orange,
avocado oil is green.
Therapeutic properties: Various oils and hydrosols have anti-ageing, anti-bacterial or
anti-inflammatory properties.

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 Create the Formula
Once you have a ‘theme’ in mind, you can choose the appropriate ingredients for it. We cannot
stress enough that when you first attempt a product or a new formula, you need to KEEP IT SIMPLE.

EXAMPLE

We would like to create a bi-phase cleanser that can be used by anyone, regardless of their skin type.

1. Choose the ingredients:

• Jojoba oil which is a liquid wax that is very similar to the skin’s own moisturiser, the sebum.
• Rose hydrosol which can be used as it is without dilution. Some hydrosols are better used
in low percentages.
• Lavender essential oil which is great in a floral theme.

2. Complete your formulation sheet:

We always record formulations in percentages and the formula must equal 100%. You can swap the
phases if it is easier.

Phase Ingredient %

Oil phase (A) Jojoba oil 49.50%

Oil phase (A) Lavender essential oil 0.5%

Water phase (B) Rose hydrosol 50%

3. Preservation
As you know, a product that contains water will need to be preserved adequately in order for it to be
safe. This means we need to alter the formulation to allocate the preservative of your choice. We will be
using Preservative Eco ( INCI: Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerine, Sorbic Acid) which is a broad-
spectrum preservative.

Phase Ingredient %

Oil phase (A) Jojoba oil 49.50%

Oil phase (A) Lavender essential oil 0.5%

Water phase (B) Rose hydrosol 49%

Water phase (B) Preservative Eco 1%

4. Decide on the batch size and calculate the amount of each ingredient needed.
We recommend that you start small, 30g or 50g batches are sufficient for experimenting.

5. Make the product.

When you have all the details on your formulation sheet, make the product and record your thoughts.

6. Make other variations.

Try making another blend with a different oil, hydrosol or essential oil and see how the product changes.

We recommend that you purchase good quality scales that can weigh 0.01 gram and that you try to calculate your formulas
in grams. That way you can mix liquid and solid ingredients without worrying about the formula’s ratios and you can weigh
very small amounts of essential oils accurately.

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 Formulation Sheet - Bi-Phase Cleanser

Formula Name: Chamomile Bi-Phase Cleanser Batch size:

Stage Ingredient Category % gr

1 A Grapeseed oil Foundation 48.50

2 A Vitamin E Antioxidant 1

3 A Lavender essential oil Aromaceutical 0.5

4 B Chamomile hydrosol Foundation Up to 100%

5 B Glycerine Humectant 4

6 B Preservative Additive as needed

10

Total 100

Formulation procedure:
1. Mix all Phase A ingredients in a clean beaker.
2. Blend hydrosol and glycerine in another glass beaker.
3. Add the preservative to the water phase. Check the pH (see Notes).
4. You can now transfer the phases into a bottle with a spray top.
5. Label with name, date and warning ‘Shake before use’.

Notes:
A very simple but effective bi-phase cleanser.

You need to check the usage instruction of the preservative with the supplier. Ideally you should purchase one
with broad-spectrum protection. Once you know the amount you need to add, you can calculate how much
hydrosol you need to make the formula 100%.

pH:
You need to measure the pH of the water-phase. Use a paper pH strip to do that.
You need to have pH 5.5.
To lower the pH: Add some lactic or citric acid solution and check the pH again
To increase the pH: Add some bicarbonate of soda solution and check the pH again
Make a solution: 10% pH modifier (as above) and 90% distilled water

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 Formulation Sheet - Bi-Phase Cleanser

Formula Name: Papaya and Mandarin Bi-Phase Cleanser Batch size:

Stage Ingredient Category % gr

1 A Sweet Almond oil Foundation 28

2 A Apricot oil Foundation 20

3 A Vitamin E Antioxidant 1

4 A Roman Chamomile essential oil Aromaceutical 0.2

5 A Red Mandarin essential oil Aromaceutical 0.8

6 B Chamomile Hydrosol Foundation Up to 100%

7 B Aloe water (aloe juice) Foundation 20

8 B Papaya glycerite Botanical 4

9 B Salt Additives 1

10 B Preservative Additives as needed

Total 100

Formulation procedure:
1. Mix all Phase A ingredients in a clean beaker.
2. Blend the hydrosol, aloe juice and glycerite in a beaker. Add the salt and stir
until it is dissolved.
3. Add the preservative.
4. Check and adjust pH if needed. ( Please see Notes below).
5. You can now transfer the phases into a bottle with a spray top.
6. Label with name, date and warning ‘Shake before use’.

Notes:
Papaya glycerite is an excellent choice to gently remove dead skin cells and unblock pores.
Adding salt will accelerate the separation of phases.
You need to check the usage instruction of the preservative with the supplier. Ideally you should purchase one
with broad-spectrum protection. Once you know the amount you need to add, you can calculate how much
hydrosol you need to make the formula 100%.

pH:
You need to measure the pH of the water-phase. Use a paper pH strip to do that.
You need to have pH 5.5.
To lower the pH: Add some lactic or citric acid solution and check the pH again
To increase the pH: Add some bicarbonate of soda solution and check the pH again
Make a solution: 10% pH modifier (as above) and 90% distilled water

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