Md.

Samaul Alam
Lecturer
Leather Engineering
University of Dhaka
FATLIQUORING
Introduction
Syllabus: Objectives, selection of fat-liquors and oils, influencing factors of the fat-liquoring
operation, quality control during fat -liquoring.

Fatliquoring is a crucial step in the processing of leather that plays a vital role in enhancing its
properties and improving its overall quality. It is a chemical treatment applied to leather during the
production process to impart suppleness, softness, and flexibility to the final product.
Fatliquoring is a technique that involves applying a thin layer of oil to the fibers and fibrils of
leather. Without fatliquoring, leather tends to become rigid and brittle when it dries. The lack of
lubrication prevents the fibers from sliding over one another, leading to breakage when the leather
is bent. Fatliquoring greatly enhances various physical properties of leather, such as tensile
strength, stitch-tear strength, and resistance to abrasion. Additionally, this process improves other
characteristics of leather, including toughness, water repellency, and resistance to chemical
substances.
The primary purpose of fatliquoring is not merely to soften the leather; softening is only a
secondary effect. The main objective of fatliquoring is to prevent the reagglomeration of the fiber
structure during the drying process. As leather dries, the water between the fibers is removed,
causing the fiber elements to come into close proximity. This closeness allows for interactions to
occur, which can become strong due to the Maillard reaction, a reaction similar to the browning of
food during cooking. It is crucial to prevent these interactions from happening to maintain the
quality of leather. Besides enhancing the physical properties of leather, fatliquoring also provides
additional benefits. It improves the leather's resistance to water, heat, and abrasion, making it more
durable and long-lasting. Additionally, fatliquoring helps to prevent the leather from becoming
stiff and brittle over time, ensuring that it remains supple and retains its natural feel and
appearance.
The choice of fatliquor and the application technique depends on the type of leather being
processed and the desired end product. Different fatliquors offer distinct characteristics, such as
light or heavy softness, fast or slow penetration, and varying degrees of water resistance. Leather
manufacturers carefully select the appropriate fatliquor to achieve the desired results in terms of
the leather's final texture, feel, and performance.

Objectives
1. Prevention of fibres sticking: The fiber structure must not be stuck together by the adhesion
created during drying

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2. Lubrication: The fiber structure must be lubricated to allow the elements to slide over one
another.
3. Fat deposition: Deposit of fatty substances in the interfibrillar spaces in order to give the leather
the desired softness and handle properties.
4. Control physical properties: Correction and control of the physical properties like tensile and
split tear strength, extensibility, wetting properties or water repelling capacity, water-proofness,
air and water vapor permeability, water absorption and moisture storage capacity, thermal and
electrical thermal conductivity.
6. Softening: Fatliquoring helps to impart softness and suppleness to the leather by lubricating the
fibers. This is crucial for enhancing the comfort and flexibility of leather products.
7. Improved drape and handle: By penetrating the interstitial spaces between the collagen fibers,
fatliquors improve the drape and handle of leather. This ensures that the leather can be easily
molded and shaped into various products.
8. Increased water repellency: Fatliquoring agents contain hydrophobic properties that enhance the
water repellency of leather. This is important to prevent the leather from becoming damaged or
distorted when exposed to moisture.
9. Enhanced tensile strength: Fatliquoring agents can help improve the tensile strength of leather
by lubricating the fibers and reducing friction between them. This makes the leather more durable
and resistant to tearing or breaking.
10. Uniform dye penetration: Fatliquors assist in the even distribution and penetration of dyes
during the dyeing process. This ensures that the color is uniformly absorbed by the leather,
resulting in consistent and attractive dyeing results.
11. Thermal stability: Fatliquoring can improve the thermal stability of leather, making it more
resistant to heat and preventing shrinkage or deformation when exposed to high temperatures.
12. Reduction of surface defects: Fatliquoring agents help to minimize surface defects such as
wrinkles, cracks, or scars by filling in the gaps and providing a smoother appearance to the leather.
13. Preservation: Some fatliquoring agents contain preservatives that help in preventing the growth
of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms. This helps to preserve the leather and extend its shelf
life.
Methods of fatliquoring
There are several methods of fatliquoring used in the leather industry. Here are some commonly
employed techniques:
1. Drum Method: This is the most widely used method in which the leather is placed in a rotating
drum or vessel along with the fatliquor. The drum is then rotated for a specific duration to ensure
proper distribution of the fatliquor throughout the leather. This method allows for efficient
penetration of the fatliquor into the leather fibers.

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2. Spray Method: In this method, the fatliquor is sprayed onto the leather surface using a high-
pressure spray gun. The leather is either stationary or moved on a conveyor belt while the fatliquor
is applied. Spray method is often used for large-scale leather production where a uniform
application of fatliquor is required.
3. Vacuum Method: In the vacuum method, the leather is placed in a vacuum chamber, and the
fatliquor is introduced into the chamber. The vacuum is then applied, causing the fatliquor to
penetrate the leather more effectively due to reduced air pressure. This method ensures better
distribution of fatliquor and can be useful for treating thicker leathers.
4. Padding Method: Padding involves applying the fatliquor to the leather by padding or rolling.
The fatliquor is poured onto a roller or padding machine, and the leather is passed through it. The
roller squeezes the fatliquor into the leather, allowing for even distribution. Padding method is
often used for specialized leathers or for targeted fatliquoring of specific areas.
5. Vacuum Tumble Method: This method combines elements of the drum method and the vacuum
method. The leather is placed in a rotating drum, and the fatliquor is added along with vacuum
application. The combination of rotation and vacuum helps in achieving better penetration and
distribution of fatliquor.
6. Stuffing Method: The stuffing method is typically used for thicker leathers, such as those used
in upholstery or heavy-duty applications. It involves manually or mechanically working the
fatliquor into the leather by hand-stuffing or using specialized stuffing machines. This method
ensures deep penetration of fatliquor into the leather fibers.
7. oiling off : Oiling off fatliquoring is a method used in leather processing that involves applying
oil-based substances to the leather surface to soften and lubricate the fibers, enhancing their
flexibility and durability. This process helps to replenish natural oils lost during previous stages
and ensures proper hydration and conditioning of the leather for a desired finished product.

Selection of fatliquoring agents from different sources

The selection of fat liquor depends on various factors, including the desired leather characteristics,
the type of leather being processed, and the intended end-use of the leather product. Here is a
selection of commonly used fat liquors in leather processing:

1. Natural Oils: Natural oils, such as neatsfoot oil, fish oil, and cod oil, are traditional fat
liquors that have been used for centuries. They penetrate the leather fibers, replenishing the
natural oils lost during processing and restoring suppleness.

2. Synthetic Fat Liquors: Synthetic fat liquors offer consistent performance and are often used
in modern leather processing. They are formulated using synthetic chemicals and
emulsifiers to provide excellent softening, lubricating, and filling properties. Examples
include sulfonated oils, sulfated oils, and sulfited oils.

3. Fatty Acid Esters: Fatty acid esters, such as stearates and oleates, are derived from natural
fats and oils. They are highly effective in softening and lubricating leather. Fatty acid esters
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 can be tailored to meet specific processing requirements and can impart various
characteristics, such as water repellency or a silky touch.

4. Synthetic Emulsions: Synthetic emulsions are water-based fat liquors that contain synthetic
polymers and surfactants. They offer good emulsion stability and can be customized to
provide specific properties, such as softness, fullness, or grain tightness. Synthetic
emulsions are easy to handle and environmentally friendly.

5. Vegetable Fat Liquors: Derived from vegetable sources, such as vegetable oils and their
derivatives, vegetable fat liquors are popular for their eco-friendly nature. They are
biodegradable and can be formulated to meet different leather processing requirements.
Vegetable fat liquors are particularly suitable for environmentally conscious or specialty
leather products. Only refined products should be used as this category of products is prone
to rancidity which may cause disagreeable smells.

Palm oil, rape oil, soya bean oil, sunflower oil, cotton seed oil.
Only semi-drying and non-drying oils are suitable for fatliquoring of leathers. Some
products have a tendency to oxidation and thus to develop strong, disagreeable smells

6. Combination Fat Liquors: In some cases, a combination of different fat liquors is used to
achieve specific leather properties. This approach allows for a synergistic effect, combining
the advantages of different fat liquors to enhance softness, water resistance, and other
desired characteristics.

7. Marine aimal oils: Train oil, fish and liver oils

The degree of purity of the oils should be observed. Filtered or refined products are
suitable. Heavy impurities cause odour problems. Products of high iodine value (Except
for chamois tannage) have a tendency to effect intensive yellowing of the leather and quick
oxidation.

8. Land animal oils: Neatsfoot oil, lard oil, olein.

When using neatsfoot oil, cold-resistant products should be chosen. Lard oil should not
have solid constituents either as otherwise there is a risk of fatty spew.

9. Animal fats: Beef tallow, lard, bone fat.

All products have an increased content of stearic fatty acid and thus a very strong tendency
to form fatty spew. The use of raw materials which have been stored for some time should
be avoided because of the rancid smell.

10. Waxes: Carnauba wax, montan wax, lanolin.

Wool grease (lanolin) should be used in purified form because products of inferior quality
have a disagreeable smell. Products based on wool grease reduce the wetting properties of
the leather.

It is important to note that the selection and application of fat liquors may vary depending on the
type of leather, tanning process (chrome tanning, vegetable tanning, etc.), and the desired outcome.

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Classification of fatliquoring agents based on charge
1. Anionic Fatliquors
A) Sulfated Fatliquors
For sulfating, the oil must be unsaturated, with a minimum iodine value of 70; the iodine value is
defined as the number of grams of iodine absorbed by 100 grams of oil or fat. Oils that have been
used in this regard are castor, neatsfoot, soya, groundnut and cod.
The properties of this type of fatliquor can be summarized as follows:
• anionic charge increases, hence greater affinity tor cationic leather
• lubricating effect decreases, due to the lower concentration of neutral oil
• emulsion particle size decreases, ultimately to the point of forming a micro-emulsion
(<5nm) or even actually dissolving in water
• stability of the emulsion to coagulation by acid or metal salts increases
• at high levels, the oil functions more like a wetting agent than a lubricant, hence the leather
becomes more hydrophilic
• the leather becomes looser, in terms of break, possibly due to the damaging effect of the
sulfate species on collagen
B) Sulfited Oils
The requirement for the oil is unsaturation, as for sulfating. Options include cod oil, neatsfoot oil,
etc.
The properties of this type of fatliquor can be summarized as follows:
• no charring or darkening
• higher emulsion stability to acids, hard water salts, metal ions, e.g. Al(III), Cr(III), due
to the presence of sulfonatc and hydroxysulfonate groups and the low level of free fatty
acids or soups, because there is little hydrolysis of triglyceride during synthesis
• The fatliquor may be formulated with non-ionic detergent, to increase emulsion
stability, to promote better penetration, to make the leather softer and fuller. There is a
danger of giving the leather loose break.
2. Cationic fatliquors
Raw oil is emulsified with a cationic agent, where the hydropnilic group is typically straight chain,
aliphatic C10 to C18. The following points apply to such fatliquors:
• low affinity for cationic charged leathers, e.g. chrome tanned
• high affinity for anionic charged leathers, e-g. vegetable tanned, for lubricating the
outer layers
• incompatible with anionic reagents, e.g. anionic dyes, fatiquors, retans
• high stability to acid, but unstable to alkali;
• good stability to metal ions and salts

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 • may have poor shelf-life
• emulsion stability can be improved by formulating with non-ionic detergents, e.g. alkyl
ethylene oxide condensates
• as a second fatliquor after anionic fatliquor ( 'sandwich dyeing')
3) Nonionic detergent:
A) Alkyl Ethylene Oxide Condensates
These fatliquors are emulsified with compounds made by condensing ethylene oxide in the
presence of an aliphatic alcohol:
CnH2n+1-(OCH2CH2)xOH
The properties ol the enmulsitying agent depend on the value of n. the aliphatic carbon chain length
and the value of x. the degree of polymerisation of ethylene oxide.
The properties of this type of fatliquor can be summarized as follows:
• high stability to metal ions, salts, hard water and wide pH tolerance
• miscible with cationic and anionic reagents
• little or no affinity for anionic or cationic charged leathers
• the non-ionic emulsifier increases the hydrophilicity of leather
• used for fatliquoring zirconium(IV) or aluminium(III) tanned leathers. which are highly
cationic charged
• may be formulated with anionic or cationic fatliquors, to improve stability
B) Protein emulsifiers
Uncharged proteins, at their isoelectric point, can act as emulsifiers. Globulin proteins, e.g.
albumin, produce a "mayonnaise type of fatliquor. These products are limited to a narrow pH
range, close to the isoelectric point, otherwise they become significantly charged and function as
anionic or cationic formulations.
4. Multi charged fatliquor
These fatliquors are formulations of non-ionic, anionic and cationic fatlliquors in which the
presence of the non-ionic species prevents precipitations of the anionic and cationic species. They
are more stable. The proportions of the constituents can be varied, depending on the leather
properties required, i.e. depth of penetration, surface lubrication and ease of removal from paste
drying plates.
5. Amphoteric fatliquors
Raw oil is emulsified with an amphoteric reagent, i.e. one containing both acidic and basic groups.
The point of neutrality, the isoelectric point, depends on the numbers of acidic and basic groups.
A typical IEP for this type of structure is pH 5. At pH >5 the emulsifier is negatively charged, at
pH<5 the emulsifier is positively charged. The choice of pH of the fatliquor depends on the charge
of the leather and the requirement of surface reaction or penetration.
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Influencing factors of fatliquoring
1. Time of application
Main fatliquoring: For chrome-tanned leathers usually following deacidification, often together
with dyeing and retanning. In the case of sulphated fatliquors it is done in a separate bath.
Preliminary fatliquoring: Already performed during pickling or chrome tanning. It provides greater
softness and improved breaking strength compared to main fatliquoring on its own.
Top fatliquoring: Mostly following acidified dyeing, fatliquoring and retanning in a separate bath.
It provides special superficial fatliquoring effects.
2. Float length
Floats of 50-200 % are used, depending on the thickness and type of leather.
3. Temperature
Fatiquoring temperatures of up to 60º C for chrome-tanned leathers and up to 45º C for vegetably
tanned leathers. For economic reasons (saving of energy) lower temperatures are often preferred
Even cold fatliquoring is used.
4. pH value
If anionic fatliquors are used on chrome-tanned leather higher pH values > 4.5 improve penetration
of the fatliquor, however exhaustion of the bath is reduced. Lower pH values <4.0 improve surface
fatliquoring and exhaustion of the bath.
5. Electrolytic content
A high content of electrolytes, in particular common salt and sodium sulphate, but also a high
content of retanning agents or dyestuffs which as heavily diluted with salts disturb the fatliquoring
process if unstable fatliquors are used. This applies especially to sulphated fatliquors. These
products should be used in a separate fatliquoring bath.
6. Emulsifiers
The fatliquoring effect and process are considerably influenced not only by the fatliquoring agents
and how they were produced, but also by the structure and different charges of the emulsifiers they
contain. In view of the great number of surface-active agents available today, the unstable soaps
formerly used as emulsifiers are now only employed for special fatliquoring processes.
7. Binding
This is important for the washing properties and dry cleaning of leather. It is even more important
for preventing fat migration in subsequent processes, i.e. drying, finishing and storage (fatty stains
and fatty spew)

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8. Distribution
The distribution surface is basically determined by the loosely and densely structured sections of
the hide. Vertical distribution depends on the degree of neutralization, the charge conditions in the
leather, type of fatliquoring agent and on how the fatliquoring process is conducted.
9. Leather Type
Different types of leather, such as cowhide, sheepskin, or goatskin, have varying characteristics
and structures. These differences can affect the absorption and distribution of fatliquors. For
instance, grain leather, which has a more compact structure, requires a different fatliquor
formulation compared to split leather, which has a more open fiber structure.
10. Fatliquor Composition
The composition of the fatliquor formulation plays a crucial role in the fatliquoring process. The
choice of emulsifier, oil type, and other additives can impact the penetration, distribution, and
fixation of fatliquors in the leather. The fatliquor composition must be tailored to the specific
leather type and desired end-use properties.
11. Application Method
The method used to apply fatliquors to the leather surface can affect the efficiency of the process.
Common application methods include spraying, padding, or immersion. Each method has its own
advantages and may be suitable for different leather types or production requirements.
12. Leather Moisture Content
The moisture content of the leather can impact the absorption of fatliquors. Leather that is too dry
may have reduced fatliquor uptake, while overly wet leather can dilute the fatliquor solution and
affect its performance. Controlling the moisture content within an appropriate range is crucial for
optimal fatliquoring results.
13. Post-Treatment Processes
Subsequent processing steps, such as drying, conditioning, and mechanical operations like staking
or sammying, can influence the final distribution and fixation of fatliquors in the leather. These
processes should be carefully controlled to achieve the desired softness, flexibility, and water
repellency.

Quality controls of fatliquoring

Quality control measures are necessary during fatliquoring to ensure that the desired characteristics
are achieved consistently. Here are some common quality control measures employed in
fatliquoring:

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1. Raw Material Testing: The quality control process starts with testing the raw materials used
for fatliquoring, such as fats, oils, and synthetic substances. The materials should meet specific
quality standards and be free from impurities that could affect the final product.
2. Formulation Control: Fatliquor formulations need to be accurately prepared according to
predetermined recipes. Any deviation from the specified formulation can lead to inconsistent
product performance. Quality control measures involve precise measurement and mixing of the
fatliquor components.
3. Process Parameters: Various process parameters need to be controlled during fatliquoring,
including temperature, pH, and agitation. These parameters can significantly affect the
performance and quality of the fatliquor. Regular monitoring and adjustment are necessary to
maintain consistent results.
4. Testing of Fatliquored Leather: The fatliquored leather should undergo testing to ensure that
it meets the desired quality standards. Some common tests include:
a. Softness and Pliability: Leather samples are evaluated for their softness, flexibility, and
pliability. Various physical tests.
b. Water Repellency: Fatliquored leather should exhibit adequate water repellency. Water droplet
tests or water absorption tests can be performed to evaluate the water resistance of the leather.
c. Tear Strength and Tensile Strength: The tear strength and tensile strength of the fatliquored
leather are important indicators of its durability.
d. Chemical Analysis: Chemical analysis can be conducted to determine the composition of the
fatliquored leather. This analysis helps ensure that the fatliquor has been properly absorbed into
the leather structure and that no excessive residues remain.
5. Batch-to-Batch Consistency: Quality control measures should aim to maintain consistent
results across different batches of fatliquored leather. Regular monitoring and analysis of the
fatliquoring process and the final product help identify any variations and ensure that the desired
quality standards are consistently met.
6. Compliance with Regulations: Leather processing, including fatliquoring, is subject to various
regulations and standards concerning environmental impact, worker safety, and product quality.
Quality control measures should ensure compliance with applicable regulations and standards.