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    FoW FlamesOfWarHobby PDF

    Uploaded by

    Jose Luis Lupiañez Gomez

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    of 42
    ea LS i) 7 “lames Of War is a yy history, many players really enjoy researching the historical act particular divisions and regiments and then translating that information on to the table. Its up to you as a player how deep you want to go when building your force \s of JODELLING AND PAINTING Painting your miniatures is a big part of Flames of War and for some People it is the most important aspect of their hobby. Some players dor’t bother with tournamer play games at all, prefer amazing miniature works of art to create GAMING another Facing off ag ‘commander across table is, of course, the core Flames of War experience. You get to test your tactical skills and abilities against opponents who are equally intent their mental muscles. Ofall of the ways to enjoy Flames War, itis hard to escape the social focus of this hobby. Wheth are playing « discussing any part of your hobby can be made more enjoyable by sl like-minded individuals. with a friend or ry history in the pub, with, (There are many different ways to enjoy Flames of War and you should have a go at exploring each of them, But no matter which aspect of the yomne becomes your favounte semember to respect the differences ofother gamess, Theres nothing more off-putting than completing an army quickly, so that you can have a game, only have your paint job ridiculed. Te takes all kinds of people at all skill Jevels to make up this hobby and the ‘more welcoming the veterans are a ew players the faster the game will grow. Remember, everyone wi now to the hobby at some point $0 endeavour to treat your fellow gamers with respect snd above all ‘de have fun! lecting lames OF War begins wit an army. This important aspect of Flame and buildin you great enjoyment, wh he fan of painting and modelling researching the history, or selecting the elements of your force in 3 3 ie s ey + (Nhe would suit you, then this the best place to start. On the next few pages, you'll find an overview o} a want to build. the different periods you can fight But even ifyou have only a passing _in, the nations you can represent in he Second World War, battle, and the types of armies that these nations can field anticipation of your first game with section is it. Even if are nev to the game hhat kind of force y knowledge o or have no idea as to which army WHICH PERIOD ‘World War IL was fought between 1939 and 1945, with many nations involved in the conflict. During that time military programmes saw technology, strategy and tacties Alevelop at an accelerated pace. Because of this rapid advancement in every aspect of the war, Flames Of War is divided into three key periods called Early, Mid, and Late War. © EAnty war (1938-41) The German blitzkrieg rolls through much of Europe, overwhelming all who face it. France is conquered, the Balkans fall, and in the desert the Afrikakorps speeds towards the Suer Canal. Soon only Britain and Russia stand against the might ‘of Germany, both battered but still standing resolute @ mip war (1942-43) Technology continues to improve asarmour and anti-tank guns vie for supremacy on the battlefield. German successes in Rassia begin to falter fier the huge victories of the summer. Stalingrad and finally Kursk turn the tide asthe Red Army slowly evolves. Inthe desert the Germans are finally defeated and Sicily and then Italy are invaded. @© ute war (1944-45) ‘The Germans, who are being slowly pushed back, begin to bring forth the secret weapons that they hope will ‘tum the tide of battle. Huge armoured tanks rumble forward, while infantry is given the hand-held anti-tank ‘weapons to destroy these beasts. Case Soviet T-34 THE MAIN THING TO KEEP IN MIND... IS THAT ARMIES FROM. DIFFERENT PERIODS CANNOT PLAY AGAINST EACH OTHER. (Late War) Soviet IS-2 War) The main thing to keep in mind when choosing which period to play is that armies from different periods cannot play against each other. To ensure you get the most out of your Flames Of War army, you should find out what periods are being played by your regular opponents. IFyou are part ‘of aclab then itis quit likely that there will be players interested in all three periods. But if you are playing, casually with fiends or family, then deciding on a single period for ‘everyone to focus on should be your first priority While established Flames Of War players often have armies from multiple nations, it isa good idea for someone collecting their first miniatures to picka single nation to focus on, Picking a favoured nation makes it ‘easy to expand your collection beyond ‘your first army. After purchasing a few support choices, you will find yourself able to field a variety of different force ‘compositions using your collection. Each of the nations in Flames of War has its own play style and a unique Took to its equipment, GERMANS ‘Throughout the war the German forces were typically well-trained and \well-motivated troops with excellent ‘equipment. They pioneered new strategies and led the way technically and tactically for most of the war. In Flames Of War German armies tend to be small elite forces that are strong ‘on the offensive BRITISH Throughout the War the island nation of Britain stood defiantly against jermans. The well-trained and experienced regiments of th ‘Army are supported bya selection of powerful tanks and artillery. The British in Flames Of War are stubborn defenders who will often hold owt against an enemy long after another force may have broken. PICKING A FAVOURED NATION MAKES IT EASY TO EXPAND YOUR COLLECTION BEYOND YOUR FIRST ARMY. With the fascist invader on their the Soviet people were conscripted in their millions and thrown forward, often without the best equipment and certainly without a great deal of training. But the Soviet Union and her Red Army were quick to adapt. Mass production and increased combat experience produced a unique fighting force to rival that of the Germans. In Flames Of War the Soviet army is plentiful, fielding larger forces than any other nation, By the time the American forces landed in Italy they were a well trained army of volunteers, supremely confident in their abilities and supported by a manufacturing powerhouse. With an impress variety of support options in Flames Of War, the American army is very flexible. The war also involved a great variety of the other nations, many of whom you can field in Flames Of War, such as Italian, Polish, French, Finnish, Hungarian, and Romanian armies. ‘These nations’ forces have their own national flavour and units, and they can ofien be found supporting the Once you've worked out which period of World War II you are going to tackle, and which nation interests you the most, the next step is to pick an army list. The Flares Of War, Forces book included with this book is the perfect starting point as it contains basic lists forall the major nations. If you are ready to sour collection, or are look Brief ng Handbook is your next step. The lists themselves are split into ree basic types: Tank companies, Mechanised companies, and Infantry companies. Each type plays dliflecently on the tabletop Changing your army’s type is eas in Flames Of War. So dont be discouraged ifyou find yoursel unhappy with hi w your frst force tes. With the addition of ope infantry units to your Tank company you'll be able to field an Infantry There is no right or wrong way to begin your collectio ‘game-ready is your main priority then you'll want to start with the en list ‘of your chos: These are the compulsory choices that are displayed in black in the 2 company diagram and usually consist ofa Company HQ and tro Comb Platoons, Ifyou rather just try your band at P by the rules of the game, then the ‘entire Flames Of War ran 1 modelling, unrestricted For me, a new army starts ith a story; When I hear a particularly engoging account woth Tois of detail Vl stan sisualising it asa Flanaes Of War force. 1 think about what platoons are mentioned i the sory. and add then to nly A recent example is the story of tke US 504" Parachute Infantry Regiment’ bold amphibious crossing of the Waal River ducing Operation Market Garden, In the story paratroopers and engineers led by the henal Mayne fia Conk, “tormed actoss the river and captured the bridge intact with the help of artillery, mortars, and British tanks, $0, or my force Fbutl the platoons that were in the story including Parechate Rifle and Combat Engindor platoons, artillery imottais, and British Sherman tanks. Then { chose a warrior, Jalian Cook. to lead my force to glory! The tesa was he story of the Waal crossing wrapped up in under 2000 points! > Bs As y the time has come for you to her your friends and forces and roll some dice! When playing your first g ‘oppo: as long as everyone is pa nes its not important that armies have equal points Learning the rules with your friends is often the best way to go, as you will discover various aspects of the game together and learn how different armies operate, Take some time after e to discuss the strategies you and your opponent used as this will help you both become better players and lead to better games, EXPANDING YOUR After playing a few games with your basic force you'll start to notice what, its weaknesses are and therefore what you may need to add to it. A well rounded force usually contains: armour, such as tanks or assault guns infantry, a platoon or two to cover your objectives is a good idea: and some artillery or air support Most players will expand piece by piece, testing each new unit in combat be ding what to next, Others will pick up every support option available to their force, giving them the ultimate flexibility between games. There are obviously plenty of different ways you can build on your core. By playing lots of games and talking about the direction your {gaming group is heading, you'll be well informed and ready to make Sometimes cteating new force to play with doesnt always require whole new army: When I started to build my frst ‘Munigarian force Linialy set out toad « motorised infantry company, buts! painted more model: it expanded out fojcover armour and infantry options By using the same infantry and adding mew support platoons was able to take suv older army of mineand ase ito createa new force that plays ina cifleent way: | cthivall started as Mid-war Hungarians representing Hie Hungarian Seconcl Army on the River Don in Late 1942 to early 1943, AvLate-inar Husgarion llelligence Briefings became available Tegan to collect additional Late war Hungacian -equipmacat. Extras I painted included assault guns, tonks, heavy artillery, cocket launchers and command teams with Panverfaust anti-tank rockets. Now 1 can field about seven different forces with my Hungarians! Naw 1 have plans for 1941 Hungasians for-Farly-war, now where did T put those Tole ight tanks? @ Paintbcuches— the most important painting tools obviously a selection of good paintbrushes, Mary beginning painters ssume that co pant well, they should use the tiniest brush they can find. In fy, the size of the brush you use is much less important than the shape. The ebrush should come toa bristles of sharp point Tobby knife ~ for trimming parts and cleaning casting imperfections before assembly Files ~ also very useful for cleaning parts and making sure everything fits well. Clippers — for removing parts from sprues and trimming larger pieces of unwanted material. Ipting tools and epoxy putty (Green Stuff or Grey Stuf) ~ for filling unwanted gaps and adding modifications to models. Pinning system (pin vice and metal rod) for strengthening fragile joints and drilling out gun barrels, @ Tweezers - for handling and manipulating small parts adjusted daylight bulb) ~ good lighting preserving your eyesight, but also for ensuring a good result. Natural daylight is ideal, but for evening. painting, you will need a good desk lamp, @Super glue ~ lis the default glue for most model assembly. Its the best ‘option for attaching metal to metal ‘etal to resin, and plastic to resin, ) Poly cement - also known as plastic sl. The best glue for assem! plastic models. It temporarily sofiens the plastic allowing it to fase together when it hardens agai givinga more durable bond than super glue © Bl-Tack handy for holding aly pact ile ile lees @ Vallejo Flames Of War paints ~ vinyl-acrylic paints with a very dense pigment load, which means they caver very well, usually with a single coat. (D War Paint cans ~ time-saving coloured spray primers Water jar with clean water (Brush soap and liquid brush cleaner ~ A quick rinse in your water jaris enough between paint colours, but it does not get the brush properly clean. At the end of each painting session, gently wash each brush under running water with a little brush soap. This helps to remove those last traces of paint, ensuring that paint does not gradually build up at the root of the bristles, causing them to splay @ Cutting mat or desk protects your table “In fact, maoy shied painers | should definitely be synthetic. ‘The cheapest and most common ‘brushes used! in miniature painting have bristles made from fine strands of synthetic polymers like nylon, Taklon or Toray. They are tougher than natural fibres, so they are better suited for ough tasks such ay drybrushing, underceating and stirsing. paint. Although synthetic brushes lost Janger ifyou Keep them clean, they will gradually deteriorate over time, fraying or curling at the tip, ‘making ine detal work difficult. Art supply stores stock brushes made from the heir of a range of different animals, The one most ee ae than the synthetic equivalent. But they are unbeatable for painting fine detail. Sable hair is tess rable than synthetic fibres, and ‘can bieak and year out quickly ‘it is used for drybrushing. But if ‘they are used carefully and cared 7 Ar propery, sable brushes can last : ‘very long time, and are worth rear you, oF you ‘extra cost, don't worry ~ synthetic brushes are also: capable of very fine detail, 35 you Keep them dean andin good condition. the properties of synthetic because that is what they ¥ are used to, Ifyou are just starting. fb te be trate ‘you buy PREPARATION AND ASSEMBLY ‘Taking care to properly prepare and assemble your miniatures is essential to give the best possible finish. Iris no fun to spot a mould line or crooked track halfway through the painting process, when itis 100 late to easily fixit (CLEANING PARTS Minor imperfections are an unavoidable part of the casting, process, and are usually very easy to deal with, (CLEANING UP METAL ‘Mould lines - Metal parts often have atiny seam where the two halves of the rubber mould meet. A quick scrape with the edge of a hobby knife is usually all it takes to remove mould lines. Some people prefer to smooth them away with a file. Either way, take care not to remove wanted detail Flash - Sometimes you may find a thin film of metal, known as ‘flash, ‘where a small amount of metal has seeped between the mould halves. This is usually easy to pull away or trim off with a hobby knife. Feeds ~ small channels are cut into the rubber to allow the molten metal to flow into the mould ‘cavities. Sometimes these appear as a small chunk of metal, which ean bbe removed with clippers. Usually though, feeds are just a rough, slightly ralsed area which can be smoothed ‘off with file. Vents - even smaller channels in the ‘mould let air escape. Sometimes these will appear as slivers of excess metal, ‘which can be removed with clippers ora hobby knife. Plastic parts are cut from their sprue MOULD LINE Mould tines and flash on metal figures Dean CLEANING UP PLASTIC Plastic parts come om a frame called a ‘sprue. They should be removed from the sprue using clippers, taking care not to scar the plastic by cutting too close. It is better to leave alittle ofthe feed point behind, and carefully shave it off with a sharp knife. Like metal parts, plastic pieces often have mould lines which should be removed wi knife or file. WASHING Its always @ good idea to wash models in warm, soapy water before painting, The casting processes for Flames Of War miniatures ~ including plastic, metal and resin parts ~ do not usually eave behind significant residue, soa lot of painters choose to skip this step. But any dust or grease thatthe parts have picked up in transport or general handling can prevent the paint from sticking properly. Some people ike to wash the parts separately before assembling. them, while others prefer to wait until the models fully assembled. ‘After washing, cinse the parts well and make sure they are thoroughly dry before proceeding to the tundercoating stage. A British Matilda 11 infantry tank UNDERCOATING Undercoating isa vital step in the painting process. Just asa needs strong foundation, a good paint job needs a smooth, durable undercoat to make it easier to apply the colours, and to stop your hard ‘work from chipping or rubbing off: The first layer of paint needs to adhere to the material of the model and provide a smooth, even surface for the subsequent layers. It doesn’t matter what type of paint you use ~ enamel, acrylic or lacquer ~ as long asit provides a tough, matt surface ‘without filling in or hiding details on the model Every experienced hobbyist seems to have their own favourite undercoating technique, but the most common is a sprayed-on black ‘undercoat from an aerosol can, Why black? The main advantage is that all of the model deepest recesses start out with the darkest possible tone, making shading easier. And if any spots are accidentally missed, they will naturally be dark and inconspicuous. ‘Some painters prefer to use white or grey primer, because it gives colours a brighter, more vivid finish, while colours sometimes appear more muted when applied over black. ‘This is more of a concern with lighter colours. USING SPRAY CANS Most cans have directions printed ‘on the side, which you should always, try to follow. Aerosol cans work best ‘when the paint is thoroughly mixed with the pressurised propellant. Always shake the can for atleast a full minute before using it, to ensure that the paint and propellant are properly mixed. Spray cans should preferably be used outside, or atleast in a well-ventilated area, Beware of ‘overspray; a fine ist of paint which drifts everywhere you dont expect it to. Ifyou have to spray inside, a large cardboard box can serve asa good improvised spray booth. But make sure you also put down a drop-cloth or enough newspaper to protect the walls, carpet, and anywhere else you don't ‘want paint particles to land. Even if you are spraying outside, spare a thought for the direction of the wind, and stay well away from anything, which overspray might drift on to, Paint should be sprayed in quick bursts from a distance of around 20em-30em or $"-12"; aiming for an even overall coverage. Several light coats are better than one heavy ‘one, as too much paint will create runs and obscure detail. After you have finished spraying, hold the can upside-down and depress the nozzle for a second, releasing a burst of ear propellant. This prevents paint from drying inside the nozzle, shortening the useful life of the can Spray paint does not usually get into every crevice and recess, so check for any areas which have been missed, and touch them up with thinned- ddown black paint. Ifyou dont want to use spray cans, its fine to paint your undercoat on with a brush, Remember to thin down the paint soit flows easily and doesnt log up details on the model or leave ugly brush strokes, Pe ea NSD e sta CCE n exam rusader II tamks using spray primers. init NLA MOUNTING MODELS FOR PAINTING Handling miniatures directly during painting is messy, and you risk getting fingerprints allover your ‘work. Itis much better to mount them on a convenient handle, such as an old paint bottle, block of wood or spare Flames Of War plastic base. Blu-Tackis perfect for this. been mounted and ind are ready to paint Mounting infantry figures for painting individually or in lines ‘on strips of card or popsicle sticks ives you easy access to each figure, ‘without the figures getting in each other's way. You can space them out {enough fo give you room to paint every detail without trouble. When decorating your bases (see page 16) you will need to take extra care to avoid getting glve, pre-mixed filler or paint on the miniatures, especially around thei feet. Adding a few drops of water will improve your paints consistency Some painters prefer to attach figures to their final bases before painting, allowing them to paint the whole team and their base as an integrated ‘whole. This saves you the trouble of protecting the figures’ paintjob when completing your basing, but you dlonit get the same all-round access to cach figure. Neither approach is inherently better than the other so use whichever method you feel more comfortable with. THINNING PAINT ‘The dense pigment in Vallejo paints tends to separate from the medium’ the liquid part of the paint - if the bottle has heen sitting for a while. So you need to shake the bottle thoroughly before you start painting. Shake hard, for several minutes if you have time. Rolling the bottle rapidly backand forth between your hands is also very effective. A few techniques, like drybrashing, ‘work best with fairly thick paint. But for most tasks, Vallejo paints are too thick to use straight from the bottle ‘The paint flows better and is easier to apply if itis thinned with about one part water to one part paint, HIGHLIGHTS AND SHADING A good miniature paint job involves much more than just neatly applying the right colours in the right places. Itneeds some of what, in the fine-art world, i called ‘chiaroscuro’ ~ the ‘contrast of light and shade, Because ‘ofthe way light behaves, highlights and shadows appear stronger on large items than small ones. This means we hhave to paint them on our miniatures, lightening the colours on raised surfaces that reflect the most light and darkening the colours in recesses and underhangs, to create the illusion of size and realism, Chiaroscuro helps to trick the eye, making miniatures seem more like tiny versions of real tanks and soldiers, rather than bland, flat-looking toys. as Coir Bron et 7) Stow Clue igh Coto sar Gos a Greeny) ‘Miniature A GOOD MINIATURE PAINT JOB INVOLVES MUCH MORE THAN JUST NEATLY APPLYING THE RIGHT COLOURS IN THE RIGHT PLACES. A Gromwell IV tank in progres Undercoat SPMD NT st BASECOATING ‘The basecoat is the first layer of colour. On a vehicle it wll usually bbe one colour, while on an infantry figure it will consist of an eppropriate colour for the uniform, the flesh areas, and each different tem of geat Many novice painters begin by painting each area of a model with a single flat color, and leave it at that. There is nothing wrong with this ~ itis good practice for brush control and neatness, and looks infinitely better on the gaming table than an army of silver surfers. But totruly make your miniatures look their best, you will want to add contrast using a combination of the following techniques. Wash and Drybrush LAYERING A very common method of painting is to layer successively lighter colours over the top of each other. Start by using a shadow colour ~ similar to the main colour but darker in tone ~ as the basecoat. The main colour is then carefully painted over this, leaving some of the darker colour showing in recesses and other shaded areas. Highlights can also be added, ‘ith a lighter version of the main colour painted onto raised detail and any areas which would catch the light. ‘This simple sounding method ~ and itreally is quite easy, ater abit of practice ~ can be taken to extremes, with many layers of successively lighter colours painstakingly built up to give a beautifully smooth, blended transition, But for most 15mm miniatures, three colours ~ a shadow, main colour and highlight ~ are plenty, DRYBRUSHING Drybrushing is a common technique for quickly adding highlights or ‘emphasising texture or raised detail. Like many techniques, iis easy to learn the basics, but requires a lot of practice to master, ‘The thicker the consistency of the paint, the easier itis to control how much is transferred on to the miniature, but the harder itis on brushes. However you do it, drybrushing will quickly render brush totally unsuitable for detail work, so only do it with old brushes. Ideally, buy a few medium-sized cheap synthetic brushes specifically for drybrushing, Details and Weathering WASHES Washes are a quick and easy way of adding shadows and accentuating detail. They are essentially a thin application of colour, diluted enough to let the pigment settle mainly in the recesses, darkening these areas and adding depth. A wash can be as simple as paint or ink diluted with ‘water, but numerous purpose-made products exist which give a much better effect. These combine intense pigment with a transparent, highly fluid medium. Their low viscosity allows the pigment to run smoothly into the eracks and recesses, giving much better contrast than @ simple paint wash. ce cleanly coi ent coer rater itc roms ryan , ; fort Fi ‘enough to produce great-looking, bases. Or you can treat each team. asa miniature diorama, creating stunning, evocative vignettes. A good base will improve the look of hastily painted figures, while even the most beautifully painted figures will go unnoticed if their basing is mediocre. small amount of time and : PLANNING Is away a good iden to plan the layout of your figures before gang them down. ry to make thetn lo asifthey are interacting with ech oxher in away that makes sense. Eaperlment with dire postions until you find a combination which | work forthe platoon asa whale TRY TO MAKE [YOUR FIGURES] LOOK AS IF THEY ARE INTERACTING WITH EACH OTHER IN A WAY THAT MAKES SENSE. GROUND TEXTURE If you leave your plain bases covered, they will look very unappealing, and the figures moulded-on metal bases wil stand ‘out unrealistically. Adding ground texture solves this by raising the ground level to the same height as the figures feet, hiding the edges of the cast-on bases. It also helps to keep the figures securely attached to the plastic base. ‘One way of applying ground texture is by gluing a liberal coating of sand ‘or basing grit directly to the base using PVA white glue. This i the easiest method, but itoften gives a messy result if you rush it, and you may need to build it up in afew layers. Basing grit comes in a variety ‘of sizes, letting you represent sand ‘gravel, rocky earth or rubble, ‘A more attractive solution is to spread ready-mixed household plaster filler over the empty parts ‘of the base, using a small spatula or sculpting toa. This is no dificult, afer a litle practice, bt it can be time-consuming with large infantry armies. A variety of artist’ texture pastes are available which can be applied in a similar way: These are usually made from zerylic gel ~ essentially very thick paint ~ containing ground pumice or marble, to give a rough, granular surface Once the ground texture is dry, you «an paint it in an appropriate earthy colous, then deybrush it with a lighter shade. Some people mix brown paint or ink into the ready-mixed filler or texture paste, to tint it to an earthy colour. This saves them the trouble of having to paint it Ifyou paint your figures before basing, you will need to be especially fal not to spoil your hard work by getting filler or paint on the figares. Any accidental slips can be cleaned. off quickly with a clean paintbrush, and water. GROUND COVER Once your base is textured and painted, you can add grass or other foliage: Many products are available, to help you theme your bases to any location or time of year. Static grass ~ fine nylon fibres designed to mimic the appearance of real grass. It gets its name because a tiny electrostatic charge makes it stand up on end - in theory, at least. In reality it tends to go in all directions, which is fine because 50 does real grass Flock — usually made from ground up polyurethane foam, in a variety of colours. Itis an alternative to static grass for representing turf, and can also simulate practically any kind of ground-based vegetation or undergrowth. (Chump foliage — also made from coloured foam, but chopped up into rough clumps of varying sizes. It isa quick and easy way of making realistic-looking trees and bushes Ground cover is easy to apply. Paint ‘on PVA white glue, thinned with ‘water. This can be a generous all ‘over coating, or sparse and patchy, depending on how much ‘Toliage you want. Again, take care not to get {glue on the figures’ feet. Then either sprinkle on the flock or static grass, ‘or press it into place with tweezers. SCENIC BASES Some painters like to paint the beveled base ecge with the same colour as the ground work, to help it blend into the gaming table cuously, Others like to neatly paint the edge a gently contrasting colour, to make their teams stand out. You should use which approach looks better to you. Most new painters will want to start with a fairly simple besing scheme. You can always try something more ambitious when you have had some tice and built up your confidence. The secret to eye-catching, realistic basing is to look atthe real world for inspiration and guidance. Examine the colours and textures of different outdoor environments, in photographs and even justin the world around you. Any country, climate type or weather condition can be recreated, with a bit of care and imagination, These American ‘Rubble’ base Plastic Rubble’ bases - Frame B 7 You might want your tanks and other vehicles to look as though they have driven fresh from the factory. More Likely, though, you will want to make them look used, worn and dicty. You can use a wide variety of techniques to achieve this look It isa fun way of finishing your models ~ the hardest pert is knowing when to stop. DRYBRUSHING Drybrushing (see page 15) isa ‘common way of applying all kinds of weathering, including dust, dirt, soot staining and faded or worn paint. SPONGE CHIPPING Asi ple yet effective technique f simulating paint chips on vehicles is to dab paint on sparingly with ‘of sponge. You can use the pacl sponge from a Flames Of War blister, torn roughly to make an uneven edge The same technique is also good for ust and mud splatters, STIPPLING Stippling is a useful technique for adding mottled, patchy colour. I is easiest to do with an old stiff synthetic brush which has had its bristles trimmed short. Load the brush lightly with paint and gently dab it on with a stabbing motion. This Is useful for adding weathering effects such as spotty rust and splattered mud. With a bit of practice, stippling is even an effective way of painting soft-edged camouflage patterns without an airbrush, WEATHERING PIGMENTS Pigment powders are an easy way of adding subtle and realistic ing. They can be brushed ‘on dry or mixed with water or paint thinner to give a wide variety of effects. Pigments need to be fixed’ in place, or they will quickly rub off ‘when you handle the model. A light misting of spray varnish is one way ‘of doing this. Another method is to brush on thinned-down matt varnish, taking care to disturb the pigment as little as possible. DECALS ‘Woter-slide transfers, or decals, are an easy and attractive way of adding, realistic looking markings to models without spending hours painstakingly hhand-painting each tiny detatl ‘APPLYING DECALS Apply a thin coat of gloss varnish to the area and allow it to dry. This provides a smooth, non-porous surface for the decal to sit on. Without this. tiny film of air can sometimes be trapped under the decal, causing unsightly silvering: Identify which decals you want to use, and carefully cut each one out of the sheet, so that each is on its own, small piece of backing paper. Soak the decal in clean water for around 30 seconds, to loosen it from its backing paper. Paint a thin film of decal softener on to the surface of the mode, over the dry gloss varnish. This will soften the underside ofthe decal stightly, hping it to stick to the model Holding the backing paper adjacent to the model with tweezers, use a clean brush to slide the decal off the ‘paper, and manipulate it carefully into the correct position. [Absotb the excess water with a paper towel or tissue, taking care not to move the decal out of position. While the decal is still slightly moist, paint ona little more decal softener. This helps the decal to conform to the models surface and smoothes the edges of the transparent film, giving the decal a flatter, more ‘painted-on ook. With a little careful pressure from a stiff paintbrush, softened decals can even be moulded to rough surface textures like Zimmerit Decals should generally be applied before any weathering techniques, but after painting, This helps to blend them in with the models surface and give a more convincing effect. A very dusty tank will look strange fits ‘markings are all perfectly clean. VARNISH While a tough undercoat provides a sturdy foundation for your paint job, the last and most important protective step is a good varnish. Ichelps protect all your hard work, making it much less prone to chipping and rubbing off BRUSH-ON VARNISHES Brush-on varnishes allow you to control how much varnish goes on, s0 you can apply a thicker protective coating. However, they are more time-consuming to apply, particularly if you have a whole army to varnish. Itis also difficult to achieve the genuinely dead-flat finish which the best spray varnishes are capable of. ‘Also, you cannot use them on ground cover such as static grass or lock, at Jeast without a lot of extra effort ‘Some solvent-based brush-on varnishes can react strangely with certain paints ~ particularly metallic colours ~ and decals. So when using a new product for the first time, itis a very good idea to try it out first on a test model SPRAY VARNISHES. Spray cans are the most useful if you want to varnish alot of models with very little effort. Always follow the ‘manufacturer’ instructions, but the same general principles apply as with spray paint: shake the ean thoroughly before use, and try to apply several thin coats, rather than one very thick one, Numbers are added to 6 turret OOS TTL DECALS SHOULD GENERALLY BE APPLIED BEFORE ANY WEATHERING TECHNIQUES. THIS HELPS TO BLEND THEM IN WITH THE MODELS SURFACE AND GIVE A MORE CONVINCING EFFECT. PAINTING THE AMERICANS Brown Violet (887) Helmet Flat Flesh (955) Exposed flesh Red Leather (818) Helmet and rifle straps, boots Khaki (988) Tacket,anklets Green Grey (886) Webbing Gunmetal (863) Gun metal, tool heads Beige Brown (875) Rifle wood, tool handles ‘US Dark Green (893) US Field Drab (873) “Trousers Black (950) Gas mask bag NOTE ON HISTORICAL COLOUR Sigs MENON Ila) soe sown at Quis 1. UNDERCOATED -_ & 3. DECALS PASC 3. DECALS 4. DETAILS 4, DETAILS 5. WEATHERING Pan All these paints are available in the Quarterraasters Paint Set (QPSOL) and the US Paint Set (UPSO1), except where otherwise noted. PAINTING THE GERMANS @ ea ee ar) Flat Flesh (955) Exposed flesh Black (950) ‘Webbing, pouches German Fieldgrey (630) Tunic, trousers Beige Brown (875) Rifle wood, tool and grenade handles ‘Gunmetal (863) Gun mota, mess tin, canteen top, tol heads German Camo Beige (821) ‘Anklets, bread bag rifle sing Green Grey (886) Alternative Bread bag, gas mask stp German Cam. Dark Green (979) ‘Gas mask canister —— eo = @ Messtin © Canteen @ Breed bog © Gas mask canister CNN ae aI se Ogg le in the Quartermaster For metal helmets Russian Uniform (924) Painted metal Reflective Green (890) lat Earth (883) Hessian tripe lat Flesh (955) Exposed flesh Khaki (988) ‘Webbing, pouc! English Uniform (921) British tani, pants Beige Brown (875) Rifle wood, tool handles Gunmetal (863) Gun meal, tool beads Black (950) Boots BRITISH VEHICLES AND EQUIPMENT The late-war tanks, vehicles and guns of the British and Canadian forces weve painted in the official SCC1S Olive Drab (Rassian Uniform 924). ‘ Very few tanks were camouflaged, although trucks often had black (Black 950) upper surfaces with "Mickey Mouse ears extending doven the sides. ‘An Allied sare avays able on } the engine deck. turet op ox vehicle Ht bonnet fr al recognition, Most 14 vehicles have their battalion code Mamsber on thedrver side foot and Fear and thee divisional marking on the other i, font andre eNECRSRURC SSTY Le) PDOs noe wow Quam 2. SHADOW COLOUR 1.UNDERCOAT Bale qt cy 2.SHADOW COLOUR _ SE 4, CAMOUFLAGE 3. BLOCK PAINTING Cry UPL e 5, DECALS & TRACKS 6, DETAILS All these pai German Armour Paint Set (GPS02), except where otherwise noted. are available in the Quartermasters Paint Set (QPSO1) and th PONS 2 RASC) ‘L.UNDERCOAT Pa vO 2. SHADOW COLOURS 3. MAIN COLOURS Pec 4. HIGHLIGHTS Pee ch SA. BASING pa GIG SB. BASING SC.BASING ones sown Qt Quartermasters Paint Set (QPSO1) and the here otherwise noted. Ail these paints are available in British Paint Set (BPSO1), except og PAINTING THE SOVIE Russian Green (894), oF Luftwaffe Cam. Green (823) Painted metal Flat Flesh (953) Exposed flesh Flat Red (957) Epaulett piping A typical Soviet infantryman, 1944-45, Khaki (988) Satchel Gunmetal (863) {Gun metal, tool beads Beige Brown (875) Rifle wood, ool handles Khaki Grey (680), or Khaki (988) Uniform [USA Tan Earth (874) Greatcoats, bedrolls & backpacks, Black (950) Boots, Belt SOVIET VEHICLES AND EQUIPMENT aint Soviet vehicles and guns with a basecoat of Russian Green (894), Drybrush a few coats of Luftwaffe Camo Green (823) over the top of this to have your miniatures ready for the table quickly and easily. A vaviety of slogans were often placed on the turret sides of Soviet tanks, such as T-34 medium tanks or 18-2 heavy tanks, or the hull sides of. self-propelled guns like the SU-76M i 4 the ISU-122, These slogans are available as decals (Code: SU844). Soviet T-34/85 medium tanks Bidder VCC mmm Seay ie 2.BASE COLOURS. Pay OsC Nn cy EM UEC) Ee crs 6, STATICGRASS All these paints are available in the Quartermasters Paint Set (QPSO1) and the Soviet Paint Set (SPSO1 otherwise noted The battlefield that your tr nt part of well thougl Terrain sets the scene for your Flames (Of War battles and shapes the story of your battle as it unfolds. You can start playing on an empty table, but your games will be more fan with Real life battlefields range from farmland to dense forests, from deserts to mountains and cities encompassing a wide variety of terrain. To keep things simple, Flanies Of War divides all terrain into three main types: area terrain linear obstacles, and buildings. Thes combine three possible effects: they can slow down movement, they can conceal troops, and they can completely block line of sight. Flaving mix of these different terrain types rally provides the best game. A hill combines all ofthese effects Ichides troops behind it, conceals around the edge or over the top, and slows down troops ttoops pecking moving across it, On the other hand, a wall ora hedge only conceals troops seen across itand slows movement, but doesnt block line of sight. A river on the other hand, slows movement, but has no e' ct on line of sight conceals nothing While a beautifully modelled battle Id adds.a lot to any Flames Of Wa ame, you don’t need to wait until you have lots of terrain to start playing. As the photograph above shows, you can create a battlefield from stuff you have around the house to get started. Books make great hills, boxes or wooden blocks stand in for buildings, and a mug works as a water tow Buildin, from plastic bricks. You can cut the base of a forest from a sheet of paper nd walls can be made and crumple a few more sheets up as trees oa top of it. Aquarium plants stand in for vegetation and rocks, wel they can be bigger rocks! ‘The Burtlefield.in a Bex range is “simple way to bulld up your terrain collection, The tertain ‘i sale for Hames OF War and cach sei comes pre-painted and seedy toply Trees area good place to siart ‘your terrain collection as they ‘an be wed in almost any seting “Fven a couple of small woods. ‘con make a major difference to. batllefield, | Buildings are another good early purchase as many battles took ‘place aronnd villages and other ‘inal settlements Ifyouadd to your tersain d collection on a regular basis, you ‘will soon have enough terrain for a great-looking battlefield The way you place your terrain on the ba ificant difference to how your games will play. A well-laid out battlefield i like a little piece of the real world and helps your game feel like a real batle lefield makes a si ELLING ATO When setting up any table, ifs very important to think about the reason ‘why you are fighting there. A good table tells where the battle is taking place and why. Itadds a story to the game. ‘Take for example, a table that has a village by. and railway line, This makes sense as most river crossings are found near settlements, The obvious story in this case is that one side or the other is trying to force a crossi river, o perhaps having done so, prevent the enemy from driving them back across the river iver crossed by a road wer the What you are trying to avoid is randomly scattered terrain that has no pattern or sense to it Terrain placed in natural groupings will tell a story of its own. It doesr’t have to be a complex story, ‘We are fighting over a crossroads’ is a perfectly valid story of a battle and common in war. Like real-life battlefields, your terrain should form natural groupings, such asa group of houses forming a ge, oF swampy areas bordering a river. Even hills are often grouped together into ranges or form valleys ‘wth hills along both sides. Different types of terrain are also naturally grouped together as well In settled areas, tres are found in small woods near of firewood, in areas unsuitable for farming such as river banks or rough bill country, and between fields ‘and along roads to shelter weary farmhands and travellers. ages a ‘One thing to watch out for is having {your groupings too spaced out. [a Europe space is always at a premium, so the houses ofa village are clos®. together, lacking the large yards found in the New World. Taking time to watch old war films of battlefields is a great way to get a feel for realistic terrain, Don't forget open spaces either: Villages are usually surrounded by ops and pastures providing the villages of Europe these are surrounded by fences or hedges, while in others the fields are only se ya strip of uncultivated land or a few trees. livelihoods. In some parts Not only are these open spaces realistic, but they also allow powerful guns to play their role It was common for tanks to have a field of fie out to atleast half oftheir maximum range, and often far more in places like the Russian Steppes. In some wargames, terrain is a nuisance best relegated to the edges ‘of the table. This approach won't work in Flames Of War as it means that the attacker has to advance across the open into the teeth of the well-concealed defenders, By the same token, putting all of the terrain in the centre of the table will leave e defenders out in the open as the attackers advance under cover, Instead, make sure that the terrain gives both players a reasonable balance of concealment and open areas, both in their deployment areas and as they advance across the table. Ready-mnade terrain like the Battlefield n a Box range ia great way to collect the bulk of your terrain quickly and easily. Buildiog custom terrain Allows you to add specific types of terrain to suit a particular battlefield or ‘centrepiece terrain featares.s the focus of a battlefield, ‘The crop fields on this page were made fom door mats found at the local hhatdwate store. With the decorative edges cut off and some vehicle tracks impressed into them, they make great wheat fields. Gamers have also used teddy bear far for crop fclds. When brushed up, the fur stands tall ike ‘crops. but when a tanks placed on it the fur fatten like crushed crops, Large hills makes great focus fora battopeld, While small hills are easy to transport and store they. dorit capture the dominating presence of hill as ‘well asa large, custorn-built hill. Layers of polystyrene foam make a good. light-weight toundation for a big hill and allow contours te be carved ito ‘it for a natural effect. One thing to watch out for though, i to make sure ‘that yout slopes arent too steep if ou want tanks and other vebicies to be able to manoeuvre across ites otherwise your models will ust side off Your battle is taking place where F it isbecause the battlefield isthe best place for the attacking force to ) operate, Attacking forces avoided OUP OF HO places where they simply couldnt VILLAG 0. Your battlefields should avoid creating dead spaces cut off from the rest ofthe battlefield by impassable rivers or particularly rough terrain Asin reality players will simply avoid these areas effectively reducing the size of the battlefield. Putting alittle thought into laying ‘out your terrain in a realistic fashion, Whether you use alot or just a litt, will pay dividends in the enjoyabilty of your games, Despite successive five year plans, the Soviet Unionis still Jangely undeveloped. Road networks consisy ofcrude dirt roads that tuen to mud in spring and winter, so both sisles relied en railways to move their supplies. As a result, many battles were fought along these (ritcal arteries In Soviet Kolkinoz (collective farins), the traditional village ‘with its household gardens has been expanded vith Jarge, new, rick communal buildings, surrounded! by large expanses of unfenced fields. Low hills, sivers,and gullies abound in the wide-open plains of ie Ukraine Steppes, while battles often took place pear villages and towns the sional laige wood. ‘While Stalingracl is the most Funous city battle, smaller battles ‘sere fought in many eitiesin the Soviet Union, often several (Gmes over. The battles of the Second World War A great way to visualise different were fought over a wide variety of battlefields is to look at pictures taken battlefields, allowing you to them at the time, original military maps, your battlefield to match battles as well as modern resources. W fought in specific types of terrain movies, ranging from the classics like The Longest Day to more recent offerings like Band of Brothers, show what historical battlefields The side bars on these pages give a variety of ideas for Western and Eastern Front battlefields to inspire you in creating interesting battlefields l00ked like that match your cho: You can use the same basic terrain pieces from your usual battleground 5 ¢ to.create quite different battlefields TE QUITE 1 Adding a few extra terrain features or just by using more of one type of the theme ofa battlefield compl ) Dense battlefields like cities and bocage can make for interesting games, T your batilefell in b temptation is to cover OGR ND ISTORICAL MAPS down and slow play toa snails pace! You can make this sort of table work by halving your normal table size to reflect the close-quartes fighting tha buildings, but this will bog your game The Internet is another great source of old documentary footage of battle period photographs, and histor Rappers tn:ceinpe tere maps to inspire you. Even tools ike You can also limit dense terrain te Google Earth can be a great way of |_—_ smaller area ofa regular table. Be visualising the type of terrain in careful though, as it risks becoming places you've never seen, especially a n0-go area and avoided by bot if people have posted photos of i Players. Another solution isto use the area After thousands of years of civilisation, western Earope is densely populated and incensively cullivated Buildings in French villages and towns abut their neighbours to maximise the space available for farming French villages are surrounded bay crop fields and orchards Small: naads provide firewood. and a tnve-shaded river or stream ‘meandering past gentle hills provides water, while tree-tined ‘roads lead 1o nearby towns. ‘The Hiocage covers much of the: Normandy: countryside, Here the farmland is divided unto small fields surrounded by hedgerows growing on piled stone banks. Once the Alles broke out ‘of Normandy, their Way was Blocked by numerous rivers and canals. Where bridges were umavailable, crossings were often found near villages and tans. OM na UN kent sss ‘The first step to becoming involved in the Flames Of War community is to find some fellow gamers, There are thousands of places you can do this around the globe. A great place to start is your friendly, local gaming store (ofien abbreviated as FLGS) or local and regional wargaming shoves. These places usually give you an opportunity to walk up to people ‘who are obviously already enjoying Flames Of War and start chatting away. Although wargamers may seem abit shy or stand-offish at first, once theyre talking about their passion they can be tough to stop, Of course, if you dont have an FLGS oc nearby wargames show you can always turn to the Internet for countless opportunities to talk about Flames Of War. There area lo of individual blogs, forums. and ahandful of podcasts around that tackle the subject of Flames Of War ‘each with their own flavour. You can find plenty of knowledgable and lively discussion on the forams at wwiwsklamesOfWarcom Jumping into these online sources can be just as rewarding as a local gaming ‘group. Just remember that the Internet, like any other community, is bound to harbour a few unfriendly or pessimistic people. GAMING GROUPS Gaming groups you might meet at your FLGS (or a show) will fll into theo basic categories: an informal ‘group or a formal group, The Flames Of War websit Informal gaming groups are typically groups of friends who hang out at a store or the house of one of the group. They meet when the mood strikes them, with varying numbers ateach meeting, perhaps gaming one week and painting the next. This kind of group is extremely flexible and usually quite small, with a low level of commitment required. Ifyou havea group of wargaming friends who play every now and then, you are already in an informal gaming group. Formal gaming groups have taken their commitment to the group up a few notches. Typically the formal group has a set meeting place (eg. a local store, community hal, basement ‘ofa member, etc.) and a regular meeting time (eg. every second ‘Tuesday at 7pm). You will usually find a core group of dedicated gamers who are present at every meeting, providing a sense of regularity and stability. Some of these groups may refer to themselves as

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