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Martinmas
Shawl
By Sarah Burghardt

As a bottom-up, then sideways, shawl with

an easy-to-memorize lace repeat, it goes a
lot faster than the final product suggests!

©Sarah Burghardt Designs, 2012

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Materials:
• For the small size, approximately 350 yards (320m) each of two colors (blue sample shown in
Malabrigo Sock, Color A - Condomb, and Color B - Aguas)
• For the large size, approximately 420 yards (384m) each of two colors (orange sample shown in
Color A - Lang Yarns Jawoll Magic Dégradé, colorway 3606, and Color B - Madelinetosh Tosh
Merino Light, in Caravan)
• 3 stitch markers, with (optional) extras in a different color for counting while casting on
• US 4 (3.5mm) circular needles 40” (100cm) long (or size of needle to obtain gauge)
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• Blocking pins and wires

Gauge: 23 stitches and 32 rows are 4” x 4” in the Section 1 stitch pattern.

Notes:
Since you must cast on so many stitches, and this often tests the limits of one’s
concentration, I recommend putting different-colored markers every 50 (or 25, if you’re really
worried) stitches after the real markers. If doing a cable cast-on (much easier than long-tail for
the multitude of cast-on stitches), make the 51st stitch, but before placing it on the left needle,
place the marker.
When a new color is given in the instructions, all subsequent rows will be of that color
until otherwise specified.
There are 2 border sts on each row, 1 on each end, that are not charted, but knit on each
row. The number of stitches will decrease by twelve between each marker by the end of every
Section 1 repeat.

Abbreviations: yo = yarn-over: Between stitches, pass working

CO = cast on
pm = place marker
k = knit
ssk = slip, slip knit: Slip one st knitwise, then
another, then slip them back, purlwise, to the
left needle. Then knit the two sts together
through the back loop. Decreases one.
k2tog = knit two together: Decreases one.
sm = slip marker
p = purl
s2p1p = slip two, purl one, pass: With working
yarn in front, slip two sts at once by reaching
the right needle around behind the second
stitch and through the first st, lifting them off
the needle. Purl the next st, then pass the two
slipped sts over the purled stitch. Decreases
two.
yarn over your right needle once before
starting the next stitch. Increases one.
s2k1p: slip two, knit one, pass: Slip two stitches
knitwise at once, knit the next stitch, pass two
slipped stitches over knit stitch.
sl = slip one stitch purlwise
kfb = knit in the front and back of stitch.
Increases one.
wyif = with yarn in front
st(s) = stitch(es)
m = marker
rm = remove marker
slm = slip marker

©Sarah Burghardt Designs, 2012


Instructions:
Set-up, section 1: (Numbers for the larger size
are in parentheses.)
In Color A, CO 74 (86), pm, CO 145 (157),
pm, CO 145 (157), pm, CO 74 (86)
Rows 1 and 2: knit
Row 3: k1, *ssk, k to 2 before marker, k2tog,
sm, repeat from * twice, ssk, k to 3 before end,
k2tog, k1
Row 4: knit
Section 1 Repeat:
Row 1: In Color B, knit.
Row 2: k1, (*p4, s2p1p, p4, yo, p1, yo, repeat
from * until there are 11 stitches before
marker, p4, s2p1p, p4, sm) three times total,
*p4, s2p1p, p4, yo, p1, yo, repeat from * until
there are 12 stitches before the end, p4,
s2p1p, p4, k1.
Row 3: k1, (*k3, s2k1p, k3, yo, k3, yo, repeat
from * until there are 9 stitches before marker,
k3, s2k1p, k3, sm) three times total, *k3,
s2k1p, k3, yo, k3, yo, repeat from * until there
are 10 stitches before the end, k3, s2k1p, k4.
Row 4: k1, (*p2, s2p1p, p2, yo, p5, yo, repeat
from * until there are 7 stitches before marker,
p2, s2p1p, p2, sm) three times total, *p2,
s2p1p, p2, yo, p5, yo, repeat from * until there
©Sarah Burghardt Designs, 2012
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are 8 stitches before the end, p2, s2p1p, p2,
k1.
Row 5: k1, (*k1, s2k1p, k1, yo, k7, yo, repeat
from * until there are 5 stitches before marker,
k1, s2k1p, k1, sm) three times total, *k1,
s2k1p, k1, yo, k7, yo, repeat from * until there
are 6 stitches before the end, k1, s2k1p, k2.
Row 6: k1, (*s2p1p, yo, p9, yo, repeat from *
until there are 3 stitches before maker, s2p1p,
sm) three times total, *s2p1p, yo, p9, yo,
repeat from * until there are 4 stitches before
the end, s2p1p, k1.
Row 7: knit.
Row 8: k1, p to 1 before end, k1.
Row 9: in A, k1, *ssk, k to 2 before marker,
k2tog, sm, repeat from * two more times
(three times total), ssk, k to last 3 stitches,
k2tog, k1.
Row 10: in A, knit.
Repeat rows 1-10 as many times as needed (in
the small size the repeat is worked a total of 6
times, in the large, a total of 7) until, in row 7,
there are two stitches outside of the first and
last markers. Stop after row 7.
Row 8: k1, p1, rm, p to m, slm, p to m, rm,
p1, k1.
Row 9: in A, k1, s2k1p, k to last 4 stitches,
s2k1p, k1
Row 10: knit.

Section 2:
Note: These rows are all short-rows, meaning
you stop short of the end of the row, turning
your work from the right side to the wrong
side in the middle of your work.
Set-up:
Row 1: In Color A (the only color in this
section), kfb, ssk, turn.
Row 2: With yarn in front, slip all 3 st
purlwise
Row 3: k1, kfb, ssk, turn.
Row 4: wyif, slip all 4 st.
Row 5: k2, kfb, ssk, turn.
Row 6: wyif sl1, k1, wyif sl3
Section 2 increase repeat:
Row 1: k to 2 before gap, kfb, ssk, turn.
Row 2: wyif sl1, k to last 3 stitches, wyif
sl3.
Row 3: k2, ssk, k to 2 before gap, kfb, ssk,
turn.
Row 4: wyif sl1, k to last 3 stitches, wyif
sl3.
Please enjoy this pattern for personal use only! Do not publish or sell this pattern!
©Sarah Burghardt Designs, 2012
4
Repeat rows 1-4 until there is one more stitch
between the gap and the center marker. Knit
rows 1 and 2 and remove the marker.
Section 2 decrease repeat:
(If you did rows 1 and 2 twice in a row before
the marker, do rows 1 and 2 of the decrease
twice after the marker before starting row 3.
Row 1: k to 3 stitches before gap, ssk twice,
turn.
Row 2: wyif, sl1, k to last 3 stitches, wyif sl3.
Row 3: k2, kfb, k to 3 before gap, ssk twice,
turn.
Row 4: wyif, sl1, k to last 3 stitches, wyif sl3.
Repeat rows 1-4 until you have an equal
amount of stitches on either side of the gap,
and switch to doing only rows 1 and 2. When
all stitches must be slipped, simply work as an
i-cord (no turning). When there are two
stitches on either side of the gap, make an
s2k1p, then pass your penultimate stitch over
the last one. Weave yarn through!
Finishing:
Weave in ends where yarn was broken, soak,
then block using blocking wires and pins.