Chapter 4

Batching or
Batch

4.1 Definition
“A "batch" is defined as a discrete and quantifiable amount of textile materials, which might
include fibers, yarns, fabrics, or even whole textile products, in the context of textile engineering.
This grouping is distinguished by being handled as a single, integrated entity that is processed
through a single action or cycle. A batch is a specified and controllable collection of components
moving through different processes during production or treatment.”
To give an example, consider dyeing. To ensure consistent color results throughout the dying
batch, identical textiles or yarns are carefully organized into batches. Similarly, during finishing
procedures like painting or laminating, materials are carefully batched to guarantee the even and
consistent application of finishing chemicals.

4.2 Types of Batching

There are 2 types of Batching:
1. Solid Batch
2. Assort Batch

4.3 Function or Purpose of Batch Section

There is some function of the Batch Section:
- To receive the grey fabric roll from the knitting section or other source.
- Turn the grey fabric if required.
- To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria.
 - Order sheet (Received from buyer)
• Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
• MACHINE capacity
• MACHINE available
• Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)
- To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with the batch card.
- To keep records for every previous dyeing.

4.4 Proper Batching Criteria

There are some criteria for the Batch Section:
- To use the maximum capacity of the existing dyeing Machine.
- To minimize the washing time or preparation time & Machine stoppage time.
- To keep the no. of the batch as less as possible for the same shade.
- To use a particular Machine for dyeing same shade.

4.5 Floor Layout

4.6 Machine Details

Air Turning Machine Overlock Sewing Machine

Model: DNAT-400 Model: MXT Series
Dong Nam Industrial Co. Ltd. Pegasus Co. Ltd.
Origin: Korea Origin: Japan
4.7 Batch Calculation
Batch Quantity × Finished Dia Quantity
No . of Batch=
Total Quantity

4.8 Calculation for Rope Length

 Total Batch Quantity × 1000 ×100
Rope Length(L)= m.
Finished GSM of Fabric × Fabric Finished Dia ×2.54

In case of fabric in tube dia, Rope Length ( L' )=( L ×2 ) m .

For Lycra=Process Lost+7 % only full feeder lycra .

Rope Length
Loading / Nozzle= m.
Nozzle Number
 Chapter 5
Lab Section

5.1 Color Lab

5.1.1 Definition
In procedures like dying, printing, and finishing, color control is frequently linked to a color lab.
The color of materials may be objectively measured and described in these labs thanks to the
presence of spectrophotometers and other color-measuring tools. Color labs can also make use of
standards and color-matching software to make sure that the required color requirements are
fulfilled.
A color lab can be used for quality control, color matching, and the creation of color
formulations, among other things. To guarantee that goods fulfill requirements and satisfy
consumers, color laboratories play a critical role in preserving color constancy between different
production batches.

5.1.2 Working Flow Chart of Color Lab

Swatch receives

Receipe Prediction

Pipe-ting

Add leveling agent & salt

took fabric (Left for 20 min)

Add soda

Load on m/c (At 600 C, run 60

min)

Unload

Cold wash

Hot wash at 950 C with detergent

Cold wash

Squeezing

Drying

Fabric is always recommended by buyer & dyes selection depends upon the technician decision.
1. Swatch receives: Swatch is received from the buyer & it comes to the lab section through
the merchandiser.
2. Fabric & dye selection: According to the buyer swatch, the type of fabric is selected &
the dye selection depends on the following factor:
The dyestuff contains “Metamerism” or not.
 The dye stuff is suitable for producing particular color.
Sometimes buyers recommend the dye to produce a particular color.
The cost of dyestuff.
3. Recipe prediction: Recipe is determined by matching with reference book or
Spectrophotometer.
By the spectrometer the std. of the swatch is saved in computer.
Then by data color software after selecting the dye some recipes are found with the best
suitable recipe comes first & then others.
If the recipe shows “Metamerism” then changes the selected dye.
4. Sampling & pipetting: According to the recipe, the required fabric, dyes & chemicals are
weighted & stock solutions are made. Then pipe ting is done according to the recipe.
Stock solutions are made according to the recipe%. Such as-
For Dye
 If recipe % (0.0001- <0.001) then stock solution % (0.01%)
 If recipe% (0.001- <0.1) then stock solution % (0.1%)
 If recipe % (0.1-0.8) then stock solution% (0.5%)
 If recipe% (0.9-4.9) the stock solution% (2.5%)
 If recipe % (≥5) then stock solution % (5%)
For Auxiliaries:
 Salt– 20% stock solution;
 Soda: 10% stock solution.
 Acetic Acid: 0.5 g/l;
 Detergent: 200ml/l;
 Leveling agent: 3.5 g/l;
 Pipette use in lab section: 0.1 ml – 1 ml & 5 ml to 10 ml.
5. Dyeing: After completing pipe ting according to the recipe, the weighted fabric is taken in
a sample dyeing Machine beaker & dyeing is completed. Here sample wt. 10gm & liquor
ratio 1:8.
6. Dispatch: After completing dyeing, the samples are checked by a spectrophotometer or
by eye vision in the verified matching cabinet. If it shows “Metamerism” then recipe
correction is done & again samples are prepared until no “Metamerism” & shade match
occurs. Then in a lab dip card, 3 samples are attached. One card is sent to the
merchandiser & another to the buyer through the merchandiser.
If the buyer chooses the sample, then the recipe is sent to the dyeing section for bulk production
through lab dip program card.

5.1.3 Spectrophotometer
The main function of spectrophotometer is to provide the best suitable recipe to dye sample
comparing with corresponding standard. If the first recipe fails to fulfil the expectation, then
it corrects the recipe.
Necessity:
a. Color matching is hard task so it makes the task easier.
b. It saves our times which provide assistance on production process.
 c. It works upon some proved theory so the answer is approximately correct.
5.1.3.1 Theory
Spectrophotometer is based upon “Kubelka-mank” theory which builds up a relation
between reflectance & concentration. The “Kubelka-mank” values (k/S) is calculated from
the reflectance value of standard by the following equation—

Where, K = Absorption co-efficient of the sample.

S = Scattering.
R = Reflective value.

Components
1. Computer
2. Spectroflash
3. CIE lab software.
5.1.3.2 Working Procedure
1. Calibration: The Machine is calibrated for different aperture view with three different
calibration standard, they are—
a. Black b. Green. c. White.
Two types of view are mostly used. They are—
Small aperture view (aperture is 9 mm in dia.)
Large aperture view (aperture is 30mm in dia.)
Valid time– The valid time for work can be varied according to the users. It can be set for 2, 6,
and 8 hours or more.
2. Data input: Self shades of particular company are prepared with various percentage in
the lab & the reflectance value of each sample is scanned in spectrophotometer.
3. Reflectance value measurement of swatch: Buyer provides either color or certain
pantone number. This is set on to the spectroflash & the Machine will automatically calculate
the reflectance value & saved it in memory.
4. Recipe giving: Considering all parameters we have to select suitable dyes & the
Machine will show some possible recipes. The factor affects dye selection much is
“Metamerism”.
5. Compare: After preparing the sample, the reflectance value of the samples is compared
with std. one, depending upon L* a* b* values the computer will show the dE value which
represents the total color difference between the sample & the STD.
If dE> 1 the color does not match.
If dE ≤ 1 then color match.
 6.Recipe correction: Depending upon the reflectance value & dE value the computer corrects
the recipe until acceptable dE value & color matching are not obtained.

5.1.4 Verivide Cabinet

It is the cabinet where dyed or OBA applied samples are checked under different light sources
either they show Metamerism or match with the swatch.
Light sources: a. D65, 2. TL84, 3. F, 4. UV.
Color temp: The temp. at which when a perfect at black body is heated then it emitted that type
of light energy of specific wave length.
It is the cabinet where dyed or OBA applied samples are checked under different light sources
either they show Metamerism or match with the swatch.
Light sources: a. D65, 2. TL84, 3. F, 4. UV.
Color temp: The temp. at which when a perfect black body is heated then it emits that type of
light energy of specific wavelength.

5.1.5 Theory of Color

Pigment theory: According to this theory primary colors are Red, Blue, & Yellow &
secondary colors are Violet or purple, Orange & Green.
When these three colors are in equal amount we get black color. Black is called” It is
presence of color absence of light”

5.1.6 Lab Dyeing Machineries

Machine Quantity Origin

Lab Dyeing m/c 3 China

Lab Washing m/c 2 China

Boiling Water m/c 1 China

Lab Dryer m/c 1 China

Computerized Pipet 2 China

5.2 Physical Lab

5.2.1 Fabric Strength Test:
Sample Preparation:
At first 6 sample (20x5) cm is cut.
Then draw a vertical line up to 10cm from the middle part of the sample.
 After that draw a horizontal line below 2.5cm from top of the sample.
Then cut the vertical line up to 10cm.

Fig: Fabric Strength Tester.

Working Procedure:
At first test sample are placed into two jaws. The upper jaw is moveable and
lower jaw is fixed. The distance between one jaw to another jaw is 10cm.
Then apply force until tearing the marked line.
Finally, we get the strength of the fabric.

5.2.2 Fabric Shrinkage and Stretch Test

Sample Preparation
At first 2 sample (35x35) cm in cut.
Then mark 4 dots by scale.

Working Procedure
Put the sample for dyeing and washing.
Dry the sample by dryer.
Measure the dot distance.
Finally, we got the shrinkage or stretch test.

5.2.3 Fabric Pilling Test

Sample Preparation:
At first 4 sample (5x5) cm is cut.
Then this sample is entangled into a tube which is attached by PVC tape.
 Fig: Pilling Tester.
Working Procedure:
After that sample is placed into
a pilling box and the machine
where at least 1,800
revolutions are given.
Finally, asses the sample by giving the
rating (1-5).

5.2.4 PH Test

Fig: PH Test.

At first, take a PH paper.

Then immerse this PH paper into a dyeing solution.
After that, we will match this PH paper with PH scale.
Finally, we can measure the exact PH of the solution.

5.2.5 Rubbing Test

 Fig: Crock Meter.

At first, a dyed sample (15× 5) cm is placed on the base of the crock meter.
Then an un-dyed crocking cloth (5× 5) cm is attached to the finger (Which is
used for rubbing action) of the crocking cloth which is white, plain weave,
scoured, de-sized, and bleached but without finishing.
Rubbing is done to & fro motion for both warp and weft way, 10 cycles at 10
second that mean 20 rubs in 20 s & finger pressure on the sample is 9 N.

5.2.6 Perspiration Test

Fig: Perspiro meter.

At first perspiration solution that can be acidic or basic is taken into per-
spirometer which is 50 times the sample weight.
Put the sample into solution for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Then the liquor is drained and places the sample between two glass plate and
applied 4.5 Kg pressure on the plate and gives the screw.
After that per spirometer is kept into an incubator for 4 hrs. At (37±2) ℃
temperature.
Finally, take out the sample and dry.
Then assess the sample by gray scale.

5.2.7 Washing of Procedure

Cold wash is carried out after dropping the dye bath.
Then treated with 2g/l acetic acid for 2 min.
Then cold wash & soap with 1g/l soaping agent at 95 o C/ 98o C for 15 min (light shade 7
30 min dark shade).
Then wash with cold water, squeezing & drying.
 Chapter 6
Dyeing Section

6.1 Organogram of Dyeing Floor

Dyeing Manger

Assistant Dyeing manger

6.2 Floor Layout
6.3 Dyeing Machine Capacity
6.3.1 Bulk Dyeing Machine
6.3.1.1 According to High Pressure
M/C Brand M/C Origin No. of Nozzle Total
Quantity Capacity (kg)
Beneks 1 Turki 6 1500
Beneks 3 Turki 4 1000
Fong’s 1 China 3 400
Fong’s 1 China 2 200
Fong’s 1 China 2 80
Fong’s 1 China 2 60

6.3.1.2 According to Low Pressure

M/C Brand M/C Origin No. of Nozzle Total
Quantity Capacity (kg)
Fong’s 1 China 6 1500
Fong’s 3 China 4 1000
Fong’s 2 China 3 600
Fong’s 2 China 3 400
Fong’s 1 China 2 200

6.3.2 Sample Dyeing Machine

M/C Brand M/C Origin No. of Nozzle Total
Quantity Capacity (kg)
BNCS 3 China 1 25
BNCS 3 China 1 20
BNCS 3 China 1 15
BNCS 2 China 1 10
6.4 Raw Materials for Dyeing
Raw materials are those, by using or processing which we get final product. In textile there
are different types of raw materials. Such as- Yarn is raw material for fabric, dyes &
chemicals are raw materials for dyed fabric. Dyed fabric raw material for garments etc.

Raw materials used in the dyeing section are:

1. Grey fabrics
2. Dyes
3. Chemicals.

6.4.1 Grey fabrics

Following types of grey fabrics are dyed in FAL:
 Single jersey
 Single jersey with Lycra
 Polo pique
 Waffle
 Single lacoste
 Double Lacoste
 Fleece
 Rib
 Rib with lycra
 1Χ1 rib
 2X2 rib
 Interlock etc.
6.4.2 DYE STUFF
It was noted by Otto.N.Witt in 1876 that color in organic compound is associated with the
presence of certain groups in the molecule. He designated the group as that produce color as a
chromophore & a molecule containing such a group as chromogen. The most effective
chromospheres are – Nitroso, Nitro, Azo, Carbonyl etc.
Color substance should become a useful dye, the molecule should contain in addition to
chromphore, some auxochrome groups. The most effective auxochromes are– Hydroxyl, Amino,
Carboxyl, Sulphonic, group etc.
DYES USED IN FAL–
1. Reactive dye (For Cotton).
2. Acid dye (For Nylon).
3. Disperse dye (For polyester).
Properties of Reactive dye:
• Soluble in Water & not to be hydrolyzed.
• Capability of movement within the fiber structure.
• Make covalent bond with fiber.
• Dyeing carried out in alkaline condition.
• Fastness properties are generally good.
• Dyeing method is easy & easily applicable to cellulose as well as protein fiber.
• All kinds of shades are found.
Properties of Acid dye:
• Acid dyes are salt of sulphonic acid & carboxylic acid & their anions are colored
components
• Soluble in water & are applied in an acid medium.
 • It has an affinity towards the protein fiber.
• Light fastness is good.
• It gives bright shades.
Properties of Disperse dye:
• It is a little bit soluble in water.
• Fastness property is good.
• It has sublimation properties.
• Disperse dyes are applied in acidic condition

Dyes origin
Sumifix: Japan. Ciba: Switzerland.
Drimaren: Germany. SK: Korea
Remazol: Germany. Terasil: Switzerland
Levafix: Germany. Benzactive: Switzerland.
Terasil & Disperse dyes are mainly used for dyeing polyester. Acid dyes are used in Nylon.
Sumifix, Drimaren, Remazol, Levafix, Ciba, Sk all these dyes are used to dye the Cellulose
or Cellulose-based fabric.
6.4.3 CHEMICAL & AUXILIARIES:
Chemicals & Auxiliaries Function
1. Sunmoral CK-2/ Pitch run L-2/ NDA. Wetting agent & Detergent.
2. Neocrystal DMBF. Sequestering agent.
3. Invatex CS/ / Neocrystal 150F. Sequestering agent & wetting agent.
4. Albatex FFC. Antifoaming agent.
5. Pitch run L-100f. All remover it is mainly used for lycra mixed
fabric.
6. Neorate PH 150F/ Neorate pH 55F. Stabilizer used during peroxide bleaching.
7. Caustic Soda/ Soda Ash. Give alkali media during reactive dyeing &
fixation. It also used as saponification agent.
8. Hydrogen peroxide. Bleaching agent.
9. Croaks NF/ Sodium Bisulphate. Peroxide killer, It is enzyme based peroxide
killer.
10. Acetic acid. Give Acetic media & mainly used as
neutralizer.
11.Bio touch C-35/ Bio touch C-30/ Enzyme.
Invazyme CEL.
12. Hydrose. Reducing agent.
13. Neocrystal-200 BF/ Cibacel DBC/ GSS/ Leveling agent.
Drimagen E3R.
 14. NicepoleD-1044/Lyocol-o-Powder/ Anti-creasing agent.
Serabid MIP.
15.Serabid IPD/ Ladiquest/ Eganol PS Sequestering agent.
16.Glabuer salt/ Serabid IPF/ San Salt LD4F Electrolyte.
17. NaHCO3. Used where slightly alkali media is required.

6.5 Flow Chart for Dyeing

BATCHING

SELECT MACHINE NO.

FABRIC LOADING

SELECT PRODUCTION PROGRAMME

PRETREATMENT

SELECT RECIPE FOR DYEING

RECIPE CONFIRMED BY DM/PO

DYEING

POST TREATMENT

UNLOAD

6.6 THE FACTORS TO FEED AND CHECK BEFORE LOADING

 Variable Chamber setting according to the linear density and loading.
 Calculate and feed the exact MLR and feed in batch Data
 Ensure the MSR level and MIR level and flow.
 Ensure the pH of Dyeing

6.7 THE FACTORS TO CONCENTRATE DURING DYEING

The operator should change the filter
 After Enzyme wash
 After Drain dyeing Bath
 After Rinsing Bath

6.8 DYEING PARAMETER CONTROL CHART

 Water level before fabric loading(Lit)
 Loading Time(min)
 Water level after fabric loading (after running 05 min)
 Dosing time of caustic
 Run time
 Dosing time of per-oxide
 Total time need to raise temp. of 105:
 Gradient (Degree/min)
 Total run time(min)
 Total time need to cooling at 80c
 Gradient (Degree/min)
 Total MIR /Rinsing time to 50c
 Total run time after acid dosing
 Check PH
 Total runtime after peroxide killer dosing
 Check residual per-oxide(ppm)
 Check PH before enzyme dosing
 Total run time during enzyme
 Chapter 7
Finishing Section