Foundation Course - Student Handout

FOUNDATION COURSE IN MAKE-UP ARTISTRY
FUNDAMENTAL OF MAKE-UP & APPLICATION IN PRACTICE

INDEX
TOPICS PAGE NO.
History of Makeup 3
Personal Care & Grooming 13
Hygeine & Makeup Sanity 21
Makeup Essentials - Products & Tools 28
Facial Anatomy & Face shapes 50
Color Theory 56
Flawless Base Techniques 63
Understanding Lighting 70
Highlighting and Contouring 73
Color Application 79
Makeup Looks 89
Introduction to Corrections 101
Makeup Consultation
2 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

HISTORY OF MAKEUP
INTRODUCTION
The first use of prototype cosmetics is usually
traced back to the ancient Egyptians; many
Egyptian tombs contained makeup canisters and
kits. Cleopatra used lipstick that got its hue from
ground carmine beetles, while other women used
clay mixed with water to color their lips.
Most notable, though, was the ancient Egyptians’

use of kohl. Both men and women would paint the
kohl, a mixture of metal, lead, copper, ash and
burnt almonds, all around their eyes
From the copper and lead ore that the ancient

Egyptians used to create the world’s first cosmetics to the scientifically advanced products of today
that can do everything from hide pores, smooth complexions, and turn the pale green of your eyes
a vivid shade of emerald, makeup has been an integral part of humankind for thousands of years.
Over the centuries, women used burnt matches to darken their eyes, berries to stain their lips.
They even swallowed ox bloodin some misguided attempt to improve their complexions.
Women throughout history put their health at risk with many of their homemade cosmetics. In some
cultures, for example, women used arsenic, lead, mercury, and even leeches to give themselves the
pale appearance deemed beautiful in the old days. Thankfully, we’ve come a long way from the days
of using toxic and deadly mixtures to enhance our looks.
Romans widely used cosmetics by the middle of the 1st century AD. Kohl was used for darkening
eyelashes and eyelids, chalk was used for whitening the complexion, and rouge was worn on the
cheek. Depilatories were utilized at that time and pumice was used for cleaning the teeth.
Women wore white lead and chalk on their faces in Greco-Roman society. Persian women used
henna dyes to stain their hair and faces with the belief that these dyes enabled them to summon the
majesty of the earth.
During the European middle ages, pale skin was a sign of wealth. Sixth century women sought drastic
measures to achieve that look by bleeding themselves, although, in contrast, Spanish prostitutes
wore pink makeup. Thirteenth century affluent women donned pink lipstick as proof they could afford
synthetic makeup.
This document is meant for internal training purpose only 3

EVOLUTION OF MAKEUP

“YOU ARE NOT BORN GLAMOROUS, GLAMOUR IS CREATED.”
The cosmetic routine at this time involved a simple powdered

face, pinching to bring colour to the cheeks, and darkening
eyelashes with burnt matches. Coloured petals or wet red
tissue paper were used to colour the lips.
Makeup artists of popular actresses dramatically influenced

how the public used makeup.
The new, accessible approach to makeup hit a stumbling block

during the Second World War as cosmetics were in short supply.
This didn’t stop British women staying glamorous, however—after all, the government constantly
reminded them that ‘beauty is a duty’.
“BEAUTY IS A DUTY”
Beetroot was a popular supplement for lip stain and proved relatively harmless compared to the use
of boot polish as mascara.
1920’S
“SCREW DEMURE! PASS ME THE KOHL EYELINER AND THE RED LIPSTICK!”
EYEBROWS
Long and thin eyebrows were the ‘film star fashionable’ look for the ’20s, Clara Bow‘s penciled brows
were sometimes drawn on lower than her natural brow.
Being wide set and sloping down, these brows created
the mournful ‘doe eyed’ look.
Natural brows would be shaped in a thin arch and
coloured using paste or cake mascara, or a brow pencil.
It was fashionable to draw the ends of the brows beyond
the natural brow, and slopping down.
LIPS
The lip shape most associated with 1920s makeup is
the cupid’s bow. The upper lip was heart-shaped, and
lipstick on the lower lip was applied short of its outer
edge, creating a smaller-looking and rounded mouth.

1930’S
“LESS KHOL, MORE RED LIP, AND FORGET EYEBROWS”
EYEBROWS
Pencil thin eyebrows were a popular feature in 1930s
makeup. Some women had their brows plucked away
entirely, to paint them with kohl every morning. Hollywood
stars often drew their brows a bit higher than they
naturally would grow. It was believed than thin brows
could display emotions better on screen.
LIPS
Unlike the flapper’s round, “bee-stung” pout of the 1920s,
the lip-line of the 1930s was longer and sleeker. Often,
the upper lip was exaggerated into a sharp “bow”— Joan
Crawford, in particular, became known for her “overlip”,
where the vermillion, or naturally pigmented part of the
upper lip, was enlarged with opaque lip color.
1940’S
“MAYBE MORE BROWS COULD LOOK GOOD”
EYEBROWS
Eyebrows were worn fairly natural-looking. Arches were well-groomed, but eyebrows weren’t
tweezed to be extremely thin–only the stray hairs were removed to create a natural arch. They were
further defined with eyebrow pencils that were slightly darker than the hair–a line was drawn at the
top of the brow and the hairs below were left soft. Most
women didn’t even use an eyebrow pencil, instead just
dabbing on a little petroleum jelly to smooth the hairs
into an arch. Personally I like this look best for day wear.
LIPS
The lips are the most important part of the ’40s face.
Lipstick was thought to keep women’s spirits up during
wartime. Lipstick was red, red and … red! Women tried
to plump up their pout using lipstick if their mouth was
‘too thin.’ They went for an even look – lips should be
the same size on top and bottom. This plump look was
called the Hunters Bow lip, coined by Max Factor, and
made popular by actress Joan Crawford. For thin lipped
women, over drawing the lip line was needed to achieve
the right shape. Lip liners certainly helped with this in the
late ’40s.

1950’S
“YOU KNOW WHAT? LET’S JUST GO FULL BROW”
When you think of make-up styles from the 1950s, you think of Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren, Audrey
Hepburn, Maureen O ‘ Hara and numerous other Hollywood stars
EYE LINER
A black line with a little outward flick was the fashionable
look, creating an almond-shaped eye
MASCARA
The 1950s saw the emergence of tube mascara with a
wand – Helena Rubinstein and Max Factor both lay claim
to being the creator of the new wand.
EYE BROWS
At the start of the decade, eye brows were dark and
strong, with pencil being used to fill in and define the
shape. Brows gradually became softer – still pencilled
for shape, but softer – less “crayoned in”.
The fashionable shape throughout the decade was a
strong arch with brows of a decent thickness that tapered
out at the ends. The thickness varied from medium to
very thick.
LIPSTICK
Lips were the strongest element of a 1950s makeup, with
red being the predominant lipstick colour choice.
Red lipstick varied from true-red through to deep and dark brown-based colours, to more orange-
based. Lipstick also came in shades of pink, orange tones and coral colours.
In 1950, the first long-lasting lipstick was introduced to consumers.

1960’S
“MORE LASHES, WE NEED MORE LASHES!”
EYE LINER
The start of the 1960s saw a continuation of the 1950s
makeup look – a flicked upper eye line, matte eye .1960s
high-fashion makeup became all about the eyes – the
rest of the face was kept more soft and natural, or pale
and understated.
False lashes were incredibly popular – the accessory of

the decade.
The cat eye look for eyes of the 1950s disappeared and
emphasis went back to lashes. Now with false eyelashes
taking on a whole new popularity
EYE BROWS
Eye brows were groomed, shaped and defined with a
brow pencil. The thickness of the brow and amount of
pencil used ranged from a tweezed lighter touch (e.g.
Twiggy) to a heavier pencilled look (e.g. Elizabeth Taylor).
LIPS AND LIPSTICK

Corals, pinks and peach were the fashionable colours, as
well as beige-pink nudes.Keeping the mouth understated, lips were naturally defined and not lined
with a lip pencil.
Lipsticks came in the standard tube and the lipstick was generally rounded at the tip, shaped like a
bullet.

1970’S
“MORE BRONZER, WE NEED MORE BRONZER!”
EYE BROWS
Fashionable eye brows were on the thinner side, from
being plucked incredibly thin in a curve, to just slightly
thicker and shaped with an arch. The thin, curved brows
were reminiscent of the Art Deco skinny brow, as seen
on Liza Minnelli in Cabaret.
EYELINER
Eyeliner might not be worn by those who favoured a
more natural look, otherwise liner could be worn on the
upper and/or lower lids.White eyeliner worn directly
behind black or blue eyeliner on the upper eye lid was
popular with some younger women/teenagers.
LIPSTICK
Lipsticks with gloss and sheen were very fashionable,
and there was a bit of experimentation with flavoured
lip products, with mixed success.Lips were not heavily
lined with pencil – as in, no lip liner lines were visible if
liner was used.
Super shiny lip gloss was very popular, marketed in particular to teens and younger women.
EYES
Long fake lashes

I don’t think fake eyelashes will ever go out of fashion however it was nice to see extra long quirky
lashes on the catwalks. When worn with softer make up these can look great.
Glitter
Hooray Glitter is back! If warn on it’s own on the eyelid this can be soft and pretty. Why not try a
metallic gold or blue glitter and purchase a gel to help bind the glitter onto the skin and help the
product to stay put.

1980’S
“MORE EVERYTHING, WE NEED MORE EVERYTHING!”
STRONG BLUSH
However, one of the most recognizable aspects of the
80s makeup has to be the blusher. Used as a contouring
product, it was applied angular, to the hollows of the
cheeks all the way to the temples and even brushed
gently on the arches, for balance. The 80s look featured
bright pinks, bronze, coral or red blush applied in a strong
manner, without blending out the edges as we nowadays
use to.
NATURAL EYEBROWS
The 80s meant the end of the standardization of
women’s eyebrows. Thanks to pop icons like Madonna
that had a massive influence throughout the 80s and the
supermodel of the time, Brooke Shields, heavy, natural
looking browswere really popular.
LIPS
In the 80s, none of the elements took the backseat. Bright
lipstick was in vogue, even if the eyes and cheeks already
had all the attention. Bold red, pink or coral shades were
the preferred colors of the time and the glossier they were, the better.
EYES
No 80s look was complete without the signature eye makeup of the time. Contrast and chromatic
clashes were extremely popular in those times, women often using strong, saturated colors for their
eye makeup. If you want to recreate an 80s makeup, start by lining your eyes with black eye pencil
and then work through the lids up to the eyebrows using pigmented colors like fuchsia, electric blue,
orange, greens or purple. Finishing touches of eyeliner and mascara sometimes came in teal and
bright blues.

1990’S
“OK, MAYBE WE SHOULD TONE IT DOWN A BIT. BUT LET’S KEEP THE LIP LINER”
With the major popularity of beautiful thin models like

Cindy Crawford, and Naomi Campbell, the 1990s could
easily be considered the decade of the supermodel.
With the Kate Moss, “waif look” or super skinny model
look, the fashion and beauty industry was once again
experiencing a change. No longer was the bright and
colorful “in” like the 80s. Women were looking to have a
sexy model-esque look with a love for neutral colors and
lots of contouring.
BROWS
Eyebrows were not exempt to the love of contouring.
To create a neat look, cream shade was applied with a
fluffy brush right on the brow bone, underneath the arch.
The look was then finished with combing and coloring/
shaping with a brow pencil.
EYES
Due to the love of the natural look, earth-tones were
must-haves. To achieve the look, matte brown palettes
of beige, black, were purchased and applied to create
the perfect smoky eye along with simple eyeliner and
mascara on the top and bottom lashes.
LIPS
Popular shades of lipsticks were matte reds, mauve, plum, browns, and dark berry colors which was
applied along with a soft brown lip liner.

1980’S
“OK, MAYBE WE TONED IT DOWN TOO MUCH. GIMME SOME GLITTER, STAT!”
THE EYES
While the 00s didn’t really have one definitive look, the
smoky eye did receive a glamorous update to the simple
90s version. During this decade, browns and blacks
were upgraded to bronzes and golds, midnight blues
and silvers, in shimmering finishes that both darkened
and attracted light to the eyes. No smoky eye look was
complete without insanely long lashes and slim, perfectly
arched eyebrows.
The smoky eye never goes out of style and one created
using bronzy tones is perfect for Summer. Metallic has
all the shades you need to add a glamourous, sunkissed
intensity to the lids and one coat that will give you the
effect of wearing false lashes.
THE LIPS
If there is one product that defined a generation during

the 2000s it is lipgloss. Juicy, shimmering, pouty lips
were seen everywhere from music videos to TV shows
with the most popular shades being easy to wear pinks
and nudes shot with lots of golden shimmer which made
the lips look fuller and more kissable almost instantly.

PERSONAL CARE & GROOMING
Professional Image projection is a key to success in every field. The success of a makeup artist largely
depends on whether people want to work with you ever again or not. Personal grooming is an art of
making yourself looking neat and attractive. It includes the habits that you cultivate to make yourself
and your appearance look tidy and pleasant.
PERSONAL HYGIENE
Personal hygiene also referred to as personal care, it is one of the most effective ways to keep
ourselves clean to protect ourselves and others from illness.
Personal hygiene is keeping the body clean, and helps prevent the spread of germs. Grooming is
caring for fingernails and hair examples of these activities would be styling hair, shaving, trimming
and painting fingernails. Maintaining good health also includes the following areas: Nutrition, Leisure/
recreation opportunities, sleep, and exercise. As you can see, there are many factors that contribute
to feeling and looking good. Feeling and looking good are important to everyone’s emotional and
physical wellbeing.
DRESS
Always have Functional & aesthetically pleasing attire

»» Our clothing is our packaging so wear clean clothes, smell fresh, wrinkle free.
»» Professional dress code color – Black
»» Clothing should be comfortable and allow you to move with the physical demand of the job
Makeup
»» - Wear Presentable Makeup
Simple accessories
»» They should also harmonize with rest of attire
Shoes clean/comfortable
»» Shoes should have good support and lower heels if
you stand all day
SMELL GOOD – FIGHT BODY ODOR

Fresh perspiration, when allowed to evaporate does not
cause body odor. An offensive smell is caused when bacteria
that are present on the skin get to work on the sweat and
decompose it. This is especially so in the groin, underarms,
and feet or in clothing that has absorbed sweat.

CAUSES OF BODY ODOR
»» Chemicals in sweat (which are produced by the body)
»» Wastes excreted through the skin.
»» The actions of bacteria that live on the skin and feed on dead skin cells and sweat.
»» Unwashed clothes, such as undergarments and socks.
»» Use of polyester and synthetic clothes in tropical countries like India.
»» Diet influences the odor too.
USE DEODORANTS / ANTI-PERSPIRANTS:

»» Deodorants are made to mask the body odor, whereas Anti-perspirants are designed to
prevent perspiration.
»» Deodorants/ Anti-perspirants are to be used after a shower / bath (in the underarm area).
Thoroughly dry the underarm before use or it will not last and be effective. Repeat use as
required. (If you have been sweating a lot, wipe the area with a wet towel and dry thoroughly
before reapplying the deodorant or anti perspirant or it will not be effective.)
»» Use a mild perfume or eau de toilette at the pulse points – behind the ears, on the inner
wrists. Do not spray perfume on your clothes as some perfumes tend to stain the clothes.
»» If daily cleanliness routines do not reduce body odor, check with the doctor.
O R A L H YG I E N E
Poor oral hygiene and infection of gums often results in a bad odor
emanating from the mouth. Smoking can make this worse. Proper
brushing of the teeth and oral care can getrid of bad breath.There
can be other reasons for bad breath. Colds, sinuses, throat infections
or tonsilscan cause bad breath. Therefore, if bad breath persists
despite good dental care, youneed to see a doctor.
SOME TIPS FOR GOOD ORAL HYGIENE:

»» Must brush teeth every morning and night.
»» Cleaning the tongue is as important as brushing your teeth. Use a tongue cleaner or the
toothbrush itself to clean the tongue.
»» Must gargle well after every meal and re- touch your make up, specially the lipstick.
»» Must floss teeth regularly before brushing – this removes the food stuck between the teeth
and helps prevent cavities. Use waxed floss, it is milder and gentler on the gums. E.g. Colgate,
Oral – B, etc
»» Method of flossing – wrap a little thread around both your index fingers and slide the thread
up and down, then forward and backward between each tooth. This loosens the food particles
stuck in between the teeth. Always brush your teeth after flossing, every night.
»» Keep mint in your bag at all times. Always pop in a mint before a meeting.
»» Drinking coffee through the day can cause coffee breath, this can be controlledby drinking
some water after the coffee. Pop in a mint if necessary

HAND CARE
The world around us swarms with micro organisms. Some bacteria are found on ourbodies. In
countries where food is eaten and prepared with bare hands extra attentionhas to be paid to the
cleanliness of hands. Besides, a permanent layer of dust or grimereduces the sensitivity of the hands.
SOME TIPS TO KEEP YOUR HANDS GERM FREE:

»» Wash hands thoroughly with soap and water before and after visiting the toilet.
»» Ideally, hands should be soaped for at least 30 seconds before rinsing, for the hand washing
to be effective.
»» If you share the toilet with others it is best to use liquid soap
»» Soaping and rinsing should cover the areas between fingers, nails and the back of the hand.
»» Hands should be dried with a clean towel after wash.
»» After all that work our hands need some pampering………hydrate your hands every night by
using a good hand cream, (Oil of Olay, Nivea, Dove moisturizer, Vaseline body lotion, etc).
FEET CARE
»» During a bath/shower give your feet agood scrub

with a sponge, pumice stone or foot scrubber that is
not of veryabrasive material
»» After a bath/shower dry the areabetween the toes.
Keep toe nail sclipped.
»» Powder your feet before wearing socks.
»» Go for a pedicure at least once in three weeks.
»» Footwear is of utmost importance in makeup. A
creative field like makeup demands standing for
longer hours and an uncomfortable footwear can
result in spine problems

NAIL CARE
Nails are the mirror to our health. A healthy body ensures healthy nails. Brittle or
discolored nails show up deficiencies or disease conditions.
»» Grow nails only if you can keep them clean and maintain them.
»» Short nails make less trouble. Clip nails short, along their shape. Don’t cut them so close that
it pinches the skin.
»» Do not keep your nails painted continuously. It causes the nails to get discoloredand split.
»» Pamper your hands and nails once every three weeks with a manicure.
»» It is recommended to keep short filed nicely painted nails for a makeup artist
HAIR CARE
It is your crowning glory. Perhaps because a good head of hair can add that much sex appeal. If
you are blessed with hair, it is easy enough to maintain it. Keep it at a length and style that you can
maintain.
»» Wash your hair at least once a week with a good shampoo.
»» Avoid using shampoos that are very alkaline in nature.
»» Avoid using the same bath soap to wash your hair. Use a mild shampoo instead.
»» Rinse well. This is more important than working up a head load of lather.
»» After shampooing the hair, towel dry the hair and use a mild conditioner on the hair (not the
scalp).
»» A professional range of shampoos and conditioners is available in the market for colored hair
or chemically treated hair. After a hair wash, dry your hair well before tying it up.
»» Brush your hair three to four times a day with a soft bristled brush or a wide toothed comb.
»» Wash your brush and comb every time you wash your hair.
»» Oil the scalp, once a week, preferably an hour before hair wash. Wrap the head in a hot towel
for 15 – 20 minutes before a wash.
»» Don’t overload your hair with styling products. This makes the hair very sticky and
unmanageable.
»» When using styling products on your hair on a daily basis, wash your hair with a clarifying
shampoo at least once a week.

SKIN CARE
Skin bears the brunt of harsh environment – heat and dust, toxic gases and particles. Regular skin
care adds radiance. The lack of it only adds years to your age. Skin damage is not easily reversible.
Regular skin care can create irreversible wellness. The secret to ageless beauty lies in regular skincare
S K I N A N A LY S I S
Skin analysis is an important part of skin care. Using appropriate skin care products and following
a regular skin care regimen is essential for healthy, glowing skin. Skin analysis will help determine
which products you should use.
SKIN TYPES
People are born with their skin type. Like everything else, skin can change over time. An individual’s
skin type is primarily based on how much oil is produced in the follicles from the oil glands. Generally,
an individual’s skin becomes drier over time. Our cellular metabolism and oil/lipid production slows
down. Skin types include dry, normal, combination, or oily.
DRY SKIN
»» Does not produce enough oil.
»» The follicles are usually small and the sebum (oil) is minimal.
»» Dry skin can be oil dry or moisture dry.
»» It is normally thin and looks dull.
»» Moisture dry skin is known as dehydrated skin.
»» A dehydrated skin is prone to fine lines and wrinkles.
»» Dehydration of the skin may be a temporary condition varying from season to season and
from various factors in the environment.
»» Using too heavy a cream or oil on dry skin may inhibit its production of natural oils by the
sebaceous glands.
OILY SKIN
»» Over production of sebum/oil.
»» Feels thicker than dry or normal skin.
»» Has enlarged pores.
»» Appears shiny compared to dry or normal skin.
»» More prone to pimples and blemishes, due to excessive oil.
»» Less prone to wrinkles and fine lines.
»» Proper exfoliation and a water based hydrator will help keep oily skin clean and balanced.
»» Over cleansing can make matters worse by stripping the skin off its natural oils and irritating

it.
»» If skin is over dried, it is not balanced, and the body’s protection mechanism tries to produce
additional oil to compensate for the dryness on the surface.
NORMAL SKIN
»» Has a good oil / water balance.
»» Can fluctuate and sometimes will be a little dry or a little oily.
»» The follicles are normal sized and the skin is usually free of blemishes.
»» Maintenance and proper care is the goal for this type of skin.
COMBINATION SKIN
»» Can be both oily and dry at the same time.
»» The T- Zone through the middle of the face on the forehead, nose, and chin is oilier.
»» This area has more oil glands and larger pores.
»» The outer areas of the face can be dry and even appear flaky
»» Needs to be balanced and requires more care than normal skin.
»» Water based products work better.
Soap and water are essential for keeping the skin clean. A good bath or shower
once or twice a day is recommended, especially in tropical countries like India.
»» A mild soap will do the job adequately.

»» Germicidal or antiseptic soaps are not essential for a daily bath or shower, but may be a
good idea during the summer and monsoon season, when the climate is extremely humid.
»» You can use a bath sponge / loofah for scrubbing the body. These are gentle and are not
abrasive on the skin.
»» Back brushes and heel scrubbers are available. But do not use abrasive material.
»» The intimate areas need to be cleaned well because of the natural secretions. Unhygienic
conditions can cause irritation and infection.
»» Wash off well after soaping. Drying with a clean towel is important. Never share soaps and
towels, use a shower gel instead.
»» Change into clean undergarments after a bath/shower.

E AT I N G F O R B E A U T I F U L S K I N
»» Beautiful skin, like a healthy body, needs plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables to keep it radiant
and supple.
»» It’s clearly obvious that drinking at least 10-12 glasses of water during the day helps purify
your body-which means a fresher, firmer skin.
»» Daily beauty regime- cleansing, toning, moisturizer is important and necessaryfor a natural
glow.
STEPS OF SKIN CARE
CLEANSING – Skin cleansing is essential for a healthy complexion . It removes make-up, dirt and
pollutants from the skins surface
»» Apply approximately one teaspoon of cleansing milk with upward movements to the face,
neck and around the eyes – to remove make up and dirt.
»» Start by removing makeup and dirt with a cotton pad soaked in cold water (dampen pads by
soaking in water and squeeze well), work upwards from the base of the neck.
»» Continue cleansing with wet cotton pads until the cotton no longer shows dirt.
TONING – Toning lotions remove all traces of cleanser and grease. Its main action is creating a
tightening effect on the skin. Helps to restore the acidic PH balance of the skin.
»» Apply 5-10 drops of toner to a wet cotton pad.
»» Go over the whole face in upward motions. Do not apply toner directly over the eyes, flip the
cotton pad and use the other side for the eyes.
»» Rinse the face with water and pat dry.
DAY PROTECTION LOTIONS / MOISTURIZERS –It plumps the skin tissue with moisture, which
minimizes the appearance of fine lines. It provides a barrier between the skin and make-up cosmetics.
»» Apply a small amount to the face and neck with upward movements.
»» Massage lightly until it has completely penetrated into the skin.
»» In the winter or when flying, reapply a second coat of lotion to give your skin extra protection.
Flying tends to dehydrate the skin.
»» Must be worn as a base under makeup.

SUNSCREEN – Sunscreen prevents the sun’s harmful rays from damaging your skin. It is important
to see SPF factor before buying a sun screen. SPF stands for ‘Sun Protect Factor. Any sun screen
with an SPF of less than 15 will not provide much sun protection. For extended sun exposure for more
than two hours, an SPF of at least 30 is recommended.
»» To be used all over the face and neck when exposed to sunlight.
»» To be applied over day time protection lotion
»» Should be applied at least 20 minutes before stepping out into the sun.
NOURISHING –Nourishing cream is known as a Night cream also, made for all skin types.
»» Apply a night cream to clean skin by using massage movements until it penetrates fully.
»» Always start at the neck and work upwards.
»» Although the creams are made to be absorbed in a couple of minutes, wait 20 – 30 minutes
before going to sleep to assure that all the benefits of the ingredients have had a chance to
work.

HYGIENE. MAKEUP & SAINTY
OBJECTIVE:
»» Importance of hygiene in makeup
»» Hygiene and avoiding cross-infection
»» Protect the health of you and your client
HYGIENE
Hygiene is another term meaning “cleanliness.”

Hygiene is a word that stands for the steps and
procedures you do to keep your body and you’re
surrounding healthy and clean. A good example of
performing good hygiene would be “Sanitization”
A healthy environment is a powerful way to

assure your clients that their comfort and safety is
important to you. Poor hygiene could result in the
transmission of germs, infections and diseases
causing skin infection & allergies.
Makeup experts must maintain strict infection

control and safety measures.
BACTERIOLOGY
The science that deals with the study of micro – organisms called bacteria. As Makeupartist , you
should understand how the spread of disease can be prevented and what precautions you must
take to protect your health and your clients’ health.
BACTERIA :
»» Also called as germs or microbes.
»» They can exist almost everywhere on the skin of the body, in water, air, decayed matter,
secretions of body openings, on clothing, and beneath the nails.
»» Can be seen only with the aid of microscope.
»» Fifteen hundred rod-shaped bacteria would barely cover the head of a pin.

INFECTION CONTROL
SOURCE OF INFECTION
»» Unclean hands and implements
»» Open sores
»» Mouth and nose discharges
»» Common use of drinking cups and towels.
»» Uncovered coughing or sneezing and spitting in public also spread germs.
Infection control is the term used to describe efforts to prevent the spread of disease and prevent
the risk of spreading infections, especially to you and your clients. It is a practice that is of utmost
importance in Beauty industry. Prevention is practiced at three varying levels.
DECONTAMINATION
No matter how clean an object or surface may appear to the naked eye, chances are it is contaminated-
that is, that it has microorganisms in or on it. Many things can be contaminated, such as makeup on
a brush or cleansing cream on a cotton pad. Even tools that appear to be clean are usually covered
with contaminants.
Of course, a salon can never be completely free from all contamination, and it would not make sense
to attempt such a goal. However, it is your responsibility as a makeup professional to be on constant
alert for disease-causing contaminants.
The removal of pathogens and other substances from tools and sur¬faces is called decontamination.
Decontamination involves the use of phys¬ical or chemical means to remove, inactivate, or destroy
pathogens so that the object is rendered safe for handling, use, or disposal.
There are three main levels of decontamination: sterilization,

disinfection, and sanitation.
»» Sanitation at the first level
»» Disinfection at the second level
»» Sterilization at the third level
S A N I TAT I O N
Sanitation is the lowest level of infection control. This first level of

infection control physical level of dirt and debris. Sanitation begins
the process of protecting you and your clients from the transmission
of diseases. E.g.; Hand washing or Sanitizing
Hand washing & Using a Sanitizer - One of the most important

sanitation actions you can take to prevent the transfer of
microorganisms form one person to another.

SANITATION GUIDELINES
»» Wash your hands before and after every service with
a liquid soap and water.
»» Sanitize all the surfaces& Tools before and after every
service.
»» Wash and dry all reusable implements with soap and
water before placing them in a disinfecting solution.
»» Provide freshly laundered towels or Disposable capes
for each client..
»» Keep the salon free from insects with the use of sprays
and room fresheners.
»» Use a fresh spatula or applicator stick for each client each and every time.
»» Discard disposable items after each service.
»» Label all the solutions, dispensers, pump bottles and always keep them covered.
»» Avoid touching your face, hair, mouth or eyes during makeup.
DISINFECTION
Disinfection is thesecond level of infection control. It means using products or methods that kill or
destroy bacteria and virus. However, chemical disinfectants do not eliminate all the bacteria. This is
the main difference between disinfection and sterilization. Disinfection is applicable to all non porous
surfaces like tools and implements in the salon. For e.g.; Steel palette & Spatula, Brushes.
Vanity bags and makeup station surfaces require pre-cleaning (sanitation) and disinfection after
each use.
DISINFECTING GUIDELINES
»» Discard and disinfect every implement that comes into contact with the client.
»» Use a disinfectant solution, completely immerse all the nonporous nail implements in it and
leave it for time mentioned on the solution used.
»» Store implements that have been disinfected in a clean, dry, covered container or vanity bag
until needed.
»» Never use an implement or towel that has been dropped on the floor.

S T E R L I Z AT I O N
Sterilization is the third and the highest level of infection control. It destroys all living organisms,
including all bacteria, fungus and virus which neither sanitation or disinfection can kill.Sterilization
is used less frequently than disinfection, but it is far more effective. Numerous sterilization methods
exist, including moist or dry heat, and immersion in liquid chemical sterilizers.
STERILIZING EQUIPMENTS:
Infection control equipment is available to sanitize, disinfect and sterilize, depending on the salon’s
needs.
All equipment should be cleaned first, before sterilization, to remove surface debris. This may be
achieved in the following manner:
»» Wash implements in hot soapy water.

»» Rinse with plain water.
»» Dry thoroughly.
»» Use chosen method of sterilization.
UV LIGHT STERILIZER
Ultraviolet (UV) light sterilizer is common in most salons. This machine usually looks like a large
toaster oven and utilizes UV light to kill bacteria in a dry setting. Typically, implements are placed
in the cabinet after being completely pre-cleaned with warm soap and water and are allowed to
sanitize for approximately 20 min.

MAKEUP SAFETY
Makeup Hygiene is important and is an essential element. Makeup can also cause serious problems
such as irritations if Hygiene is not maintained. Taking certain precautions when applying makeup
can will help you to deliver your best skill in a professional way. Developing hygienic makeup habits
takes time and practice.
IF HYGIENE IS NOT MAINTAINED

»» Can lead to skin allergies and infections
»» Contaminates products
»» Reduces their Life Span of Products
IF TOOLS ARE NOT CLEANSED

»» Converts into Bacteria’s Breeding Ground
»» Product Deposition on Bristles
»» Alters the Shade on application
»» Natural oils from Skin getting transmitted to brushes
THUMB RULE- MAKEUP
Adhering to certain Thumb rules provides a guideline while working
Washing your hands before makeup applications and between

clients seems like common sense, but sometimes it’s the simplest
steps that we forget. You should even wash or sanitize your hands
before you start a makeup application on yourself. This prevents you
from transferring whatever bacteria you’ve picked up throughout
your day onto your skin or your client’s face. Whether you prefer hand
sanitizer or just soap and water, clean hands are the foundation of
good makeup hygiene.

It’s even best to sanitize, clean and wipe all tools and products in front of your client to make sure
they know you are hygienic and follow health and safety precautions and procedures.
Use a steel palette to take and mix products like foundation, concealer,
pigments glue to avoid contamination. Do not forgot to clean and
sanitize it after each use
Professional makeup artists must clean and sanitize their brushes

thoroughly between every single client. If a brush has touched a
person’s face or body, it should always be cleaned before it touches
someone else. Forgetting to clean your brushes is one of the worst
culprits when it comes to transferring bacteria between people.
Makeup has an expiry date for a reason! Old products that are
past their due date can be extremely unhygienic, particularly if it’s
a product that you use on clients. The older makeup gets, the more
susceptible it is to germs and bacteria.
Always ‘double dipping’. If you take product with your brush, touch the
brush to a client’s face, and then put that brush back into the product, you
contaminate the rest of that makeup. You therefore can’t use that product
on another client without exposing them to the first client’s bacteria. Instead,
use a clean palette knife to scoop what you need onto a clean palette. You
can work freely from the palette if you use it exclusively for that client until
you clean and sanitize it.
Although brushes are great, use disposable applicators when possible.

Some products, like lip gloss and mascara, need a wand to retrieve them
from the container but will be contaminated if you ‘double dip’. This is what
disposable applicators are for.

Sharpen eyeliner/lipliner before every use and swipe with a tissue
before applying it . This helps to shed the outer layer where the
bacteria collect. Spray the top surface of compact powders and
gently wipe to remove the contaminated layer
Dispose unwanted stuff and always keep the station clean
Always keep the Makeup kit/ Bag clean and tidy. It throws a bad
impression on the client if the makeup vanity is cluttered and dirty.
So to be true professional always clean and keep your makeup vanity
organized
Developing hygienic makeup habits takes time and practice. The key to beautiful makeup is a beautiful
canvas and skincare is the primary and most important step that a lot of people tend to forget! Your
makeup can only look as good as the skin that is applied on so… if you haven’t at least got the basics
in your beauty routine. START NOW…it doesn’t have to be complex but a good cleanser, moisturizer,
eye cream and SPF are so very important!

MAKEUP ESSENTIALS – PRODUCTS & TOOLS
INTRODUCTION:
Makeup plays an important role in the fashion world and constantly changes
with the seasons. Makeup is also an important feature of weddings, proms,
and other glamorous events.
Makeup is a tool that helps create a look that radiates beauty. Everyone
wants to look his or her best.
Makeup’s primary goals to enhance The natural beauty of the client by Bringing out the most
attractive features of the face, while minimizing those that are less attractive.
It is very important to know Make up products formulations as this helps us to choose the correct
product as per the requirement
MAKEUP PRODUCTS
C H E M I S T RY O F M A K E U P P RO D U C T S
FORMULATION OF MAKEUP:
The formula refers to the ingredients blended together, and how the makeup is formulated.
OIL AND EMOLLIENT BASED

Oil and emollient based are the oldest type of make-up. An oil (usually mineral oil) or emollient (such
as petrolatum, beeswax, or lanolin) is used as the main ingredient, with pigment added to it. The
texture and application is extremely thick and dense, most closely resembling modern lip balms or
lipsticks.
ALCOHOL BASED
Alcohol based uses a blend of water and denatured alcohol as the base, with
pigment added to it. It eliminated emollient and binding agent that could clog
pores, and needs to be shaken before use. Alcohol-based foundations have the
most lightweight, “nothing on my face” feel, and nearly impossible to clog pores, but
provide only the sheerest coverage and can be tricky to apply and blend. They work
better with cotton balls or pads, instead of latex or sea sponges.
POWDER-BASED
Powder-based uses powder — usually talc — as the main ingredient. Pigment is added,
along emollients, skin adhesion agents and binding agents to the formula before it
is pressed into pans. The difference between this type of foundation and pressed
powder is that this provides more coverage (due to more pigment), and contains
more skin adhesion agents (to help it stick to the skin – because pressed powder is
lighter weight, it requires less). This provide a “finished” look and can blend from sheer
to nearly full coverage, but can look too floury and dry, especially around the eyes,
or on drier/mature skin. They can also flake and trickle down as they are applied and
blended.

MINERAL MAKEUP
Mineral makeup most commonly refers to a foundation in loose powder format.
The most common minerals used as the base are mica, bismuth oxychloride,
titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. However, talc is also a mineral, so a talc-based
powder could be considered a “mineral makeup” — although most mineral
make-up sold makes a point of being talc-free. A “mineral make-up” may be all
mineral, part mineral — or contain less than 1% mineral as part of the finished
formula.
WATER-BASED MAKE-UP
Water-based make-up appeared after the end of World War 2, with emulsifiers
that could successfully keep a water-and-oil blended emulsion stable being the
key to their development. This creamy liquid provided medium coverage with a
far more natural feel and appearance than oil, powder or emollient bases of the
time, and became popular with women since then.
WATER-BASED CREAM MAKE-UP

Water-based cream make-up has a rich, creamy texture that can be
sheer to full coverage with a moist, satiny finish. It usually comes in a jar
or tube, and is much more comfortable and realistic looking on the skin
than the oil or emollient-based predecessors.
SILICONE-BASED MAKE-UP
Silicone-based make-up uses a silicone
or a blend of water and silicone as the
main ingredient.. The silicone provides
lubrication and viscosity at a level equal
to, or often, even better than oil allowing
a product to apply and blend over the
skin smoothly and evenly. Silicones
have a lighter weight and are thus
more comfortable on the skin, as well
as resisting filling in lines or large pores
on the face. Conventional silicones stay
supple and smooth, even in dry climates,
whereas volatile silicones last long enough to blend over the face, then evaporate (like alcohol),
leaving little to no feel behind. Silicone-based make ups are less likely to oxidize or change colour
during wear. One of the biggest challenges facing silicone bases is the tendency for the product to
break and/or ball up on the skin, something unique to silicones and out of control of the user.

SELECTION OF MAKEUP PRODUCTS
Choosing a makeup product line is similar to choosing a skin care line. There are some good
quality private label cosmetics. Quality is important when choosing products and supplies. There
is a difference between high-quality makeup (usually more expensive) and less expensive generic
brands. The quality of the products and brushes makes a big difference in how makeup application
will go for you, the artist, or for your client-smoothly or not so smoothly.
Explain to clients why they should buy quality makeup and brushes. Why are they better? Is quality
going to make a difference on their skin? Will quality products glide on easier and not tug on the
delicate eye tissue?
Clients will be more satisfied with products that are easier to work with and will discover that quality
is worth the extra money.
You will be better equipped to make use of cosmetics in your professional services when you have
learned about their chemical composition and preparation. Once you know these basics, you can use
makeup to create optical illusions with shadowing, highlighting, and color. The cosmetics industry
offers a wide range of products designed to improve the skin’s appearance as well as its condition.
The cosmetics available today meet the needs of every skin type. Most products come in a variety of
forms: powders, creams, sticks, wands, tubes, pans, and bottles.
MAKEUP PRODUCTS – CONCEALERS, FOUNDATIONS AND MINERAL MAKEUP
CONCEALER
A concealer or color corrector is a type of makeup used to hide pimples, dark circles and other small
blemishes visible on the skin. Concealers usually do a good job of hiding blemishes by blending the
imperfection into the surrounding skin tone. This product is mainly used by women, but use among
men is increasing.
Both concealer and foundation are typically used to make skin appear more uniform in color. These
two types of cosmetics differ, in that; concealers tend to be more heavily pigmented, though they
are available in a wide range of opacity. Also, foundation is usually applied to larger areas. The first
commercially available concealer was Max Factor’s erace, launched in 1938. Concealer can be used
alone or in conjunction with foundations.
Concealer provides extra cover to specific areas of the face that require more cover than that
provided by cosmetic foundations alone such as dark circles under the eyes, a pimple, tiny veins, or
redness at the sides of the nose. Concealer also offers a good base for eye shadow when applied to
the eyelids.
Concealers generally come in stick, liquid, or cream form. For blemishes, a thick dry stick concealer is
good; liquid concealers are thin and runny; cream works for almost everything and everyone.
Concealer should be one or two shades lighter than your cosmetic foundations and have the same
undertone (go two shades lighter for very dark circles). Concealer comes in a limited number of
shades.

CONCEALER COLORS
Concealer is available in a variety of shades, from lightest to deepest. Some colors are intended to
look like a natural skin tone, while others are meant to contrast with a particular type of blemish.
»» Yellowish Orange can be used to blur dark circles or bruising, and to brighten dull skin.
»» Green can counteract red patches on the skin, such as those caused by pimples, broken
veins, or rosacea.
»» A purple-tinted concealer can make shallow complexions look brighter.
Colored concealers such as these are usually applied sparingly beneath a concealer or foundation
that matches the wearer’s skin tone. Skin-toned concealers are not only the most common type, but
are often sufficient on their own at hiding or blurring imperfections.
COVERAGE
Coverage refers to the opacity of the makeup, or how much it will conceal on the skin.
Sheer is the most transparent and contains

the least amount of pigment. It will not hide
discolorations on the skin; however, it can
minimise the contrast between the discoloration
and the rest of the skin tone.
Light coverage can cover unevenness and slight blotchiness, but is not
opaque enough to cover freckles.
Medium coverage can, when set with a tinted (instead of translucent)

powder, cover freckles, discolorations, blotchiness, and red marks
left by pimples.

Full coverage is very opaque, and used to cover birthmarks, vitiligo,
hyper pigmentation and scars. It is sometimes referred to as
“corrective” or “camouflage” make-up.
FOUNDATION
Foundation is a skin colored cosmetic applied to the face to create an even, uniform color to the
complexion, to cover flaws, and, sometimes, to change the natural skin tone. Foundation applied to
the body is generally referred to as ‘Body painting”.
Pick a Color that Matches Your Skin Tone

It is also important to choose cosmetic foundations that looks natural (closely matches your coloring)
and fits the desired effect you are seeking. You may require a separate concealer for skin blemishes,
blotches, under eye dark rings and other discolorations.
Foundation should be applied to the skin first, before any other make up product, since other
products may not blend as well to the naked skin and may even make blemishes and flaws look more
pronounce.
Cosmetic foundations may be water-based, oil-based or oil-free, with varied consistencies and
coverage, and are available in liquid, cream or powder form.
PAN-CAKE
The first commercially available foundation was Max Factor’s Pan-Cake.
Originally developed for use in film, actresses were so taken with the
results that Max Factor was overwhelmed with demand for the product
for their personal use. The breakthrough in his formula was the first
“foundation and powder in one”; traditionally, an actor was made up with
an oil / emollient based makeup, which was then set with powder to
reduce the reflection and ensure it would not fade or smudge.
Pan-Cake used talc — rather than oil or wax — as the base, and, applied
directly to the skin with a wet sponge, it offered enough coverage (it
could be layered without caking on the skin) to eliminate the need for a foundation underneath. This
was considered significantly more lightweight and natural-looking on the skin than the standard
method, hence the keenness of people to wear the item in public. Although foundation make-up was
widely available and used within the film industry, the use of cosmetics in general was still somewhat
disreputable, and no one had tried to market foundation (although lipstick, blush and nail polish
were popular for daily use) as an everyday item.

PRESSED POWDER FOUNDATIONS
Pressed cosmetic foundations give a smooth, matte finish to the skin that
helps control shine. It can be applied with either a damp or dry sponge. At
first, it takes practice to use the right amount of powder.
This type of foundation works for all skin types and is easy to carry around
since it’s not as messy as loose powder. This makes it quick and handy for
touch ups. It is available in more shades than loose powder.
When choosing a shade, get one as close to your foundation color as you
can and use lightly since it tends to accumulate on your skin during touch
ups.
PRESSED POWDER COLORS
LIQUID FOUNDATIONS
These usually offer light to medium coverage, can be applied using a sponge and are available in a
wide range of colors that can be mixed to obtain in-between shades to match your skin tone (only
mix cosmetic foundations of the same brand). Because liquid foundation is a more lightweight finish
than compact it tends to be easier to use on dry skin. It is also best applied using cosmetic sponges.
To avoid a streaky finish place a very small amount of foundation on sponges and always brush over
with powder. The powder helps the cosmetic foundations last longer.
Make sure you get the right cosmetic foundations for your skin type - choose an oil-based foundation
for dry skin, water-based foundation for normal skin, and “oil-free” foundation for oily skin. You can
apply moisturizer 5 to 10 minutes before beginning your face powders application.
LIQUID FOUNDATION COLORS
CREAM FOUNDATION
When using a cream-based cosmetic foundation, concealer
may be applied either before or after the foundation. Use a
wedge-shaped latex sponge and light strokes to apply the
foundation across the face. You can tell how a cream formula
will cover by how it feels to the touch. The thicker and heavier
it feels, the more it covers. So if it feels slightly dry it offers
light to medium cover. Very rich cream pigments are used for
stage. Try not to cover too thick with cream foundation or it
may look artificial and draw attention to itself.
Choosing the right foundation is an important part of your

makeup routine. The type of coverage you choose is just as
important as the color you choose. The various textures will
cover in different ways, and as a result even choosing a color of the same name can appear to
be different colors on the skin. Foundation is a constantly evolving beauty product and there is a
formula available for every skin type and tone.

SELECTION OF MAKEUP
Although most artists squabble over the significance of selecting an exact match to the wearer’s skin
tone, intentionally using a mismatch can achieve a desired result.
»» An excessively red complexion can be minimized by using a clear (meaning neither yellow nor
pink) beige toned foundation.
»» A sallow or dull complexion can be brightened with a rose to red tint
»» To tint mature skin that has lost its color and appears pale and dull can be brightened with
a tint of clear pink;
»» Olive or ashy skin can be brightened with a shot of peach.
A crucial point in selecting a foundation shade is to recognize that the appearance of the shade in
the container may not accurately gauge the color impact on the skin — a foundation that appears
very yellow in the bottle may go on much less yellow, or not appear yellow at all.
When to use different forms of concealer and foundation :

»» Cosmetic foundations such as powders and liquid foundation are used to create a
»» clear, smooth skin tone - the illusion of seemingly flawless skin texture that will last as long
as you desire.
»» Foundations provide the perfect base for the application of the rest of your make up products.
»» Face make up is meant to provide light to medium skin coverage and comes in a wide variety
of colors and different types.
»» You may want to use the lightest covering during the summer and the heavier one during the
winter.
Summary:
»» Foundation is used to enhance the color of the skin & provide a uniform look, whereas,
concealer is used to hide pimples, blemishes and scars.
»» Concealer has a much heavier pigmentation when compared to foundation.
»» A person could mix different foundation colors & formulations to create the desired effect,
whereas, concealers are generally available in all the possible combinations.
»» Foundation is applied to larger areas, like the face and neck, whereas concealer is only
applied to smaller, problematic areas.
»» Concealers can be used together with other concealers or foundations, but foundation is
generally used independently.

POWDER
Face Powders are an essential step in your makeup routine. Powder does two things to your make-
up. Firstly it sets your makeup perfectly, giving a smooth even finish to your complexion. Secondly,
it helps to prevent the appearance of shine on the areas most prone to oiliness-the central panel.
Powder gives a finished, shine free look to make up
Application
Make sure the foundation is well blended. Blot the face lightly with a tissue, especially over the
forehead, nose and chin. Pick up the powder on the puff and press it firmly on the face, one area at
a time. Never rub powder on your face. Let it set for a few seconds,
Now using a soft, thick powder brush, whisk away the excess, with downward movement to stop the
powder getting caught in the fine facial hair.
Shades of Powder
Select a powder of your skin tone or a shade lighter than your skin tone. If your skin happens to be
pale, then choose a powder with a rosy beige tint. If you are going to use it over foundation, go in for
a translucent powder.
Powder on Mature Skin:

Avoid powder on fine lines under your eyes. The powder may collect in the lines, making them more
prominent.
TYPES OF MAKEUP POWDER:

1. Loose Powder
Fine loose translucent powders are the best for a finished pore less look, It is
especially good if used in the morning to set your makeup, as it will keep you
makeup looking fresh all day. Loose powder is applied with a puff.
2. Pressed Powder
Pressed powders are used for touchups as they are easy to carry.
So when you’re on the go, compact (pressed powder) gives you a soft, beautiful look
anytime. It is applied with a brush using downwards movements, to minimize the
impact of facial hair. The powder helps your make up look ‘just put on’ (fresh) much
longer by stopping oil from coming through. Do not use the puff of the compact. Use
a proper puff or a thick powder brush to powder yourself.
3. Which Powder to use?

They are available in either compact or loose form. It is important to set your foundation with a loose
powder. This helps to keep your foundation in place. Compact powders should be used for touch ups.
Fine loose translucent powders are the best, as the pressed powders tend to cake and streak.
Translucent Powders are light in texture providing a sheer, natural finish However if you have an
extra oily skin, it is advisable to wear a matte translucent powder. which is sheer and contain loads
of oil natural absorbers.
If you use a translucent powder over your foundation or concealer, it will set your makeup without
adding too much extra color. Complexion powders on the other hand, have a greater degree of color
and because they are more opaque, can be used alone

EYE SHADOW
Eye shadows accentuate and contour the eyes. They are available in almost every color of the rainbow,
from warm to cool, neutral to bright, and light to dark. Some powder eye shadows are designed to
be used wet or dry. They also come in a variety of finishes, including matte, frost, shimmer, or dewy.
Eye Shadow Chemistry

Eye shadow is available in stick, cream, pressed, and dry powder form. Stick and cream shadows are
water-based with oil, petroleum, thickener, wax, perfume, preservatives, and color added. Water-
resistant shadows have a solvent base, such as mineral spirits. Pressed and dry powder shadows
are composed much the same as pressed face powder and powdered cheek color.
Using Eye Shadow

When applied to the lids, eye shadow makes the eyes appear brighter and more expressive. Matching
eye shadow to eye color creates a flat field of color and should generally be avoided. Using color
other than the eye color (that is, a contrasting or complementary color) can enhance the eyes. Using
light and dark can also bring attention to the eyes. Generally, a darker shade of eye shadow makes
the natural color of the iris appear lighter, while a lighter shade makes the iris appear deeper.
However, the only set rules for the selection of eye makeup colors are that they should enhance the
client’s eyes and that color choices should be more subtle for daytime. If desired, eye makeup color
may match or coordinate with the client’s clothing color.
Eye shadow colors are generally referred to as highlighters, bases, and contour / dark colors. A
highlight color is lighter than the client’s skin tone and may have any finish. Popular choices include
mane or iridescent (shiny). As the name suggests, these colors highlight a specific area, such as the
brow bone. Remember that a lighter color such as white will make an area appear larger.
A base color is generally a medium tone that is close to the client’s skin tone. It is available in a variety
of finishes. This color is generally used to even out the skin tone on the eye. It is often applied all over
the lid and brow bone, from lash to brow, before other colors ,to applied, thus providing a smooth
surface fat the blending of other colors. If used this way, a matte finish is generally preferred.
A contour color is a color, in any finish, that is deeper and darker than the client’s skin tone. It is
applied to minimize a specific area, to create contour in a crease, or to define the eyelash line.
To apply eye shadow, remove the product from its container with a spatula, then use a fresh applicator
or clean brush. Unless you are doing corrective makeup, apply the eye color close to the lashes on the
upper eyelid, sweeping the color slightly upward and outward. Blend to achieve the desired effect.
Mote than one color may be used if a particular look is desired.

EYELINERS
Eyeliner is used to outline and emphasize the eyes. It is available in a variety of colors, in pencil, liquid,
pressed (cake), or felt-tip pen form. With eyeliner, you can create a line on the eyelid close to the
lashes to make the eyes appear larger and the lashes fuller.
Eyeliner Chemistry
Eyeliner pencils consist of a wax (paraffin) or hardened oil base (petrolatum) with a variety of
additives to create color. They are available in both soft and hard form for use on the eyebrow as
well as the upper and lower eyelid.
Using Eyeliners
Most clients prefer eyeliner that is the same color as the lashes or mascara for a more natural look.
More dramatic colors may be preferred to match seasonal color trends. Be extremely cautious when
applying eyeliner. You must have a steady hand and be sure that your client remains still. Sharpen
the eyeliner pencil and wipe with a clean tissue before each use. Also, remember to sanitize the
sharpener before each use.
Apply to the desired area with short strokes and gentle pressure; the most common placement is
close to the lash line. For powder shadow liner application, scrape a small amount onto a tissue and
apply w the eyes with a disposable applicator or clean brush. If desired, wet the brush before the
application for a more dramatic look.
Eye shadow in pressed powder form may be applied to the eyes with an eyeliner brush to create a
softer lined effect. While using shadow or pencil liner, it may be helpful to gently pull the skin taut,
from right below the eyebrow up, to ensure smooth application.

EYEBROW
Eyebrow Color
Eyebrow pencils or shadows are used to add color and shape to the eyebrows. They can be used to
darken the eyebrows, correct their shape, or fill sparse areas.
Eyebrow Color Chemistry

The chemistry of eyebrow pencils is similar to that of eyeliner pencils The chemical ingredients in
eyebrow shadows are also similar to those in eye shadows.
Using Eyebrow Color

Sharpen the eyebrow pencil and wipe with a clean tissue before each use. Sanitize the sharpener
before each use. For powder shadow application, scrape a small amount onto a tissue and use a
disposable applicator or clean brush to apply shadow to brows. Avoid harsh contrasts between hair
and eyebrow color, such as pale blonde or silver hair with black eyebrows. Brown is usually the best
choice.

MASCARA
Mascara darkens, defines, and thickens the eyelashes. It is available in liquid, cake, and cream form
and in a variety of shades and tints. The most popular mascara colors are shades of brown and
black, which enhance the natural lashes, making them appear thicker and longer.
MASCARA CHEMISTRY
Mascaras are polymer products that contain water, wax, thickeners, film formers, and preservatives
in their formulations. The pigments in mascara must be inert and usually are carbon black, carmine,
ultramarine, chromium oxide, and iron oxides. Some wand mascaras contain rayon or nylon fibers
lengthen and thicken the hair fibers.
USING MASCARA
Dip a disposable wand into a clean tube of mascara, and apply dose of the base of the lashes our
toward the tips, making sure your client is comfortable throughout the application. Dispose of the
wand. Never double-dip.
While using an eyelash curler, you must curl the lashes before applying mascara. If lashes are curled
after mascara, eyelashes may be broken or pulled out. Use extreme caution whenever you use an
eyelash curler. It is easier to learn how to use this by first observing its use. Ask your instructor to
demonstrate before attempting to use an eyelash curler on someone else.
Apply mascara carefully. The most common injury with mascara application is poking the eye with
the applicator. Practice applying mascara repeatedly until you feel confident enough to apply it on
clients.

LIP COLOR
Lip color, lipstick, or gloss is a cosmetic in paste form. Some lip colors contain sunscreen protect the
lips from the harmful effects of the sun. Others contain moisturizers to keep lips from becoming dry
or chapped.
LIP COLOR CHEMISTRY

Lip color is available in a variety of forms: creams, glosses, pencils, gels, and sticks. All are formulas of
oils, waxes, and dyes. Castor oil is the primary ingredient in lipsticks; other oils used are olive, mineral,
sesame, cocoa butter, petroleum, lecithin, and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Waxes commonly
included in the ingredients are paraffin, beeswax, carnauba, and calendula wax.
USING LIP COLOR

Lipsticks come in a variety of colors. Consider the client’s preferences, eye color, skin tone, and lip
shape before variety of colors, textures. and forms, selecting and applying lip color. The current
fashion trend may be lighter or darker lipstick colors, or a certain style, such as heavily lined or glossy,
lightly Stained, or matte.
Lip color must not be applied directly from the container unless it belongs to the client. Use a spatula
to remove the lip color from the container, then take it from the spatula with a disposable lip brush.
Use the tip of the brush to line the lips. Connect the center peaks using rounded strokes, following the
natural lip line. Aim for symmetry and balance.

LIP LINER
Lip liners are colored pencils used to outline and fill in the lips. Lining the lips also helps to keep lip
color from feathering. Lip liner is often used when doing corrective makeup. Lip liner comes in thin
or thick pencil form and is available in a variety of finishes. Some lip liners double as lipstick. Lip liner
is usually applied before lip color to ensure the proper shape and definition of the lips. Choose a lip
liner that coordinates with the natural lip color or lipstick. The liner color should not be dramatically
darker or brighter than the lip shade. If a darker liner is desired, fill in most of the lip with the liner and
blend the lip color and lip liner to avoid harsh lines. Sharpen the lip liner pencil and wipe with a clean
tissue before each use. Also, remember to sanitize the sharpener before every use.

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
Supplies/Accessoriesinclude the following:
Sponges are good for blending foundation, concealer, and powder. Wedge shapes are the most
versatile. Use the large thicker end of the sponge for foundation to get more coverage and control.
Use the smaller sides to blend around the eyes. Brushes to blend powder, blush, and eye shadows
work better than sponge tips or fingers. You can get better control and better blending.
They also feel nicer to the skin and are more professional. Make sure you sanitize brushes between
clients. Be prepared and have enough on hand for multiple uses throughout the day. Buy good
quality brushes.
An art store or a brush wholesaler is good suppliers.

MAKEUP SUPPLIES CHECKLIST
Skin care Makeup Supplies/Accessories
Cleanser Concealer Cape
Toner Highlighter Alcohol
Moisturizer Contour colors Tweezers
Sunscreen Foundation Hair clip/hair band
Powder Brushes
Eye shadow Pencil sharpener
Eyeliner Mirror
Mascara Lash comb
Blush Lash curler
Disposables (spatulas, Q-tips, mascara wands, mixing cups,

Lip gloss
sponges, tissues, applicators)
Lip liners
Lip sticks

MAKEUP TOOLS
Skin care Supplies/Accessories Skin care Supplies/Accessories
Tweezers - for all unwanted

Eyelash Curlers
hair
Sanitizer Tissues
Natural foundation sponge Sharp scissors
Latex sponge - cream

Spatula & Palette
foundation
Q-Tips Hair clips
Powder Puff Cotton Pads

BRUSH TYPES AND USES
Objective –This chapter helps to understand different

make up brushes and its uses to achieve a professional
make up look
Makeup is an art. Every stroke and every color choice

you make is a definite act towards getting the final
image. knowing the tools of your trade is foremost thing
you need to know. In this case, the tools of your trade
would happen to the different types of makeup brushes.
Knowing right tools and techniques is a key factor in
obtaining that professionally done look
A makeup artist would go crazy picking up brushes in today’s time understanding the availability of
variations in the market. A basic understanding of main brush category will help to choose the right
brush.
Brushes can be divided as per the steps of Makeup application
TYPES OF BRUSHES
Concealer Brush - Helps you cover and conceal the targeted spots and
blemishes perfectly. Works great for cream based concelaers. It plays an
important part in distributingthe product in hard-to-reach areas like around
the eye, around the nose, andover the eyelid. It is best to use synthetic brushes
with no more than a ¼” widthfor better control.Always remember to pat in
concealer with the brush do not rub.
Foundation brush- This brush is designed for applying liquid foundation.

Foundation brushes have tightly packed bristles of varying lengths to help
achieve a smooth, non-streaky finish. You can apply foundation to your face
and then use the brush to spread and blend or alternatively apply your
foundation directly to the brush and then apply to the face, starting at the
nose and working your way out. I find the second method uses less product and
allows for a more precise application. If you’re not sure whether a foundation
brush purchase is worth it, consider the following points:
»» It’s more hygienic.
»» It applies your foundation more evenly and precisely.
»» You don’t waste any foundation on your fingers
»» You don’t have to wash your hands afterwards.

Stippling Brush - A stippling brush, also known as a duo-fibre brush or
skunk brush is a multi-purpose brush that is most commonly used with liquid
foundation, blush and bronzer. The black bristles are tightly packed together
and usually made out of animal hair. Poking out above these are the white
bristles, generally made from synthetics.
The flat, circular, feathery head provides lightweight and buildable coverage
that won’t remove any of the make-up you’ve already applied, so it’s perfect
for layering.
Small and Big Powder Brushes - For that professional touch of satin
smooth finish, you need to apply compact powder / loose powder with
a brush. You can choose from big or small variants of brushes. The small
ones help you to apply powder in and around your eye area while the
bigger ones help you apply powder on to your cheeks, chin, and forehead
and along the top of your nose bone. Pat the brush into your powder
product, dust off any excess and apply using sweeping and circular
motions.
Brow and Lash Brush - The unique design of the brow and lash brush gives
you two advantages. The brush side is used to groom the brow in the proper
direction. The comb side is used to separate the lashes before you apply
mascara.
Eye brow Brush - In order to create a clean and crisp brow, the brush shouldhave
an angle for better control. It should have short, tight bristles.
Eye Base Brush & Angle Eye Shadow brush - There are many different types of
eye shadow brushes, but these two are the most commonly used. The eye base
brush is used to apply colour to your entire eyelid. It’s wide, flat and short, with
a bevelled edge to allow smooth application without pulling on the eyelid. Once
a base colour has been applied, the angled eye shadow brush or contour eye
shadow brush is then used for layering colour and creating hard lines along the
eyelid crease.
Eye Shader - Simply buff over the applied line to soften the edges and create
a smoky look. Always use a separate brush for each color. One brush should be
kept for shading and one brush should be kept for highlighting.

Smudger Brush - Sometimes found on the other end of an eye pencil,
a smudger brush is ideal for softening hard lines and creating a
smoldering look. The dome shaped bristles are shaped to fit perfectly
into the crease of the eye and is a must-have for creating smokey eyes.
Liner Brush - Like the brow brush, the liner brush should also have
an angle withshort tight bristles for control. The liner brush should
be thinner than the brow brush.There are variety of liner brushes,
the thickness of the brush depends on the how thick or thin the liner
application is required.
Blush Brush - Blusher needs to be applied very lightly with gentle

strokes on to cheek hollows or on to the cheeks apples with gentle
circular touch. The blusher brush is made with fine, gentle fibres with
a soft rounded head for a smooth even application
Contour /Bronzer Brush - This brush can be used for using a darker
color of blush and also for bronzers on to the contour of cheek, on sides
of chin and sides of forehead and also along the sides of bone line of
nose for an extremely chiselled look.The slanted bristles are intended
to mimic the angle of your cheekbones, so it’s perfect for blending,
highlighting and shading using a bronzer or illuminating powder.
Lip Brush- The lip brush is a smaller sized filbert brush. The tapered tip
will have aCrisper edge around the lip line that allows better control
when applying lip color.

BRUSH HANDLING AND CARE
HOLDING THE BRUSH

There are various ways to hold a brush. It is best to experiment and find a position that is comfortable
and gives you the greatest control. For greater control it is sometimes useful to rest your little finger
lightly on canvas . Some make-up artist will use a clean powder – puff under their working hand to
avoid contact with the model’s skin . It is very important not to lean on the model.
The width of brush stroke will depend on how much pressure is applied to the brush. For fine strokes
the tip of the brush should glide over the canvas; to make wider strokes,
that is created – longer affect the type of stroke that is create loose more flowing strokes spoiling
your make than shorter ones. The firmness or softness of the hair will also affect the brush stroke.
Cleaning Makeup brushes - Cleaning brushes at regular intervals is essential because if not cleansed
efficiently and the proper way would damage the brushes and also impact your reputation by spoiling
your makeup

Do’s: Right Way to Clean Makeup Brushes
»» Wash your brushes once a week, or once in two weeks depending on usage. Opt for an alcohol
based cleanser (Brush cleansers), if you are short of time. Spray it on a paper towel and then
sweep the brush against the paper towel until it’s clean.
»» Use a gentle shampoo to clean brushes.
»» Gently squeeze out excess water, Reshape bristles and let the brushes dry overnight. Allow
your brushes to dry completely or at least 8 hours before using
»» Hand dry your brushes upside down
Don’ts: Wrong way to Clean Makeup Brushes

»» Do not mix used and clean make up brushes,
so as to ensure that bacteria doesn’t get
transferred from the dirty brushes to the
unused ones.
»» Do not blow-dry or use direct sunlight to dry
your brushes, as it can cause permanent
damage to your brushes.
»» Do not rough up the bristles too much during
cleansing as it can permanently damage the
brush.
»» Do not let the water drip into the metallic
ferrule as it might wet the root of bristles and
cause shedding
»» Do not let your brushes dry standing up (bristles facing upwards) as Water will seep down to
the bristles into the brush and loosen the glue holding the hairs together leading the brush
to fall apart.
T H E M A K E U P S T A T I O N A N D C O N S U LT A T I O N A R E A
The area that you use for services and consultations must be clean and tidy. No one wants to see
a messy makeup unit or dirty brushes lying about. Clean your brushes after each use and tidy your
makeup area daily. Also, keep a portfolio in the consultation area that includes photographs of your
own work or pictures from magazines. The client can go through your portfolio and find styles and
colors that appeal to her. Try to have the makeup service area in a visible, yet semi-private area of
the salon for client privacy.

FACIAL ANATOMY & FACE SHAPES
Make-up is used to enhance and accentuate the facial features to make us appear more
attractive. Our face shape is formed by the underlying bone and muscle structure. A makeup artist
should understand facial anatomy and face shapes to create the makeup and the look required
FAC I A L A N ATO M Y
Bones of the Face – Skull is the skeleton of the head It is made of 22 bones. It is divided into 2 parts
cranium & Face.
»» Cranium is the posterior part meaning the back of the head which consists of 8 bones
»» Face is the anterior or the front part of the head and consists of 14 bones
BONES OF THE CRANIUM - 8 BONES

»» Occipital (1) - forms the lower back part of the cranium
»» Parietal (2) - forms the sides and crown of the head
»» Frontal (1) - forms the forehead
»» Temporal (2) - forms the sides of the head in the ear region
»» Ethmoid (1) - between the eye sockets and forms part of the nasal cavity
»» Sphenoid (1) - joins all the bones of the cranium together

FACIAL BONES - 14 BONES
»» Nasal (2) - forms the bridge of the nose
»» Lacrimal (2) - located at the inner part of the walls of the eye socket
»» Zygomatic or Malar (2) - cheek bones
»» Maxillae (2) - upper jawbones
»» Mandible (1) - lower jawbone- strongest and largest bone in the face
»» Turbinal (2) - on the outer walls of the nasal depression
»» Vomer (1) - forms the dividing wall of the nose
»» Palatine (2) - forms the hard palate together with the maxillae

FACE SHAPES
For a perfect make up there has to be a balance between all the features. No individual feature
exists in isolation, and balancing any one part of the face has an effect on the face as a whole. Face
shapes can be used as a guide to create an illusion of ideal face
UNDERSTANDING FACE SHAPE

Face shape is the single most important consideration in getting a perfect
make up.
There are lots of suggestions on how to figure out your shape, from
outlining your face shape on a mirror with lipstick to draping it with a towel
and asking others to help you guess the shape. But, there is actually a
scientific way to determine your face shape once and for all. To find out the
shape of your face, measure it with a tape measure or ruler. You will take
the following measurements.
»» Measure your face across the top of your Cheekbones. Write down the measurement on a
piece of paper.
»» Measure across your jaw line from the widest point to the widest point. Write down the
measurement.
»» Measure across the forehead at the widest point. Generally the widest point will be somewhere
about halfway between your eyebrows and your hairline. Write down the measurement.
»» Measure from the tip of your hairline to the bottom of your chin.
There are five basic face shapes that are used most often. Many people have a combination of
Following are the five basic face shapes for you to identify and understand the differences:
TYPES OF FACE SHAPES

»» OVAL FACE – Length equal to one and half times width.
»» ROUND FACE – Your face is more rounded at the jaw line and forehead. There are no sharp
edges on the face. This may vary a little but generally the measurement is close.
»» OBLONG / RECTANGULAR – Longer than it is wide.
»» TRAINGULAR – Narrow at the forehead, wide at the jaw line. Reverse of the heart shape.
»» HEART – Narrow at jaw line, wide at cheekbones / and or forehead.
»» SQUARE – Your face is about as wide as it is long.
»» DIAMOND – Widest at cheekbones, narrow forehead and jaw line of approximately equal
widths.

OVAL FACE : Only slightly narrower at the jaw line than at the temples, with a
gently rounded hairline.
»» The face is slightly longer then it is wide.

»» The forehead is slightly broader than the jawline.
»» The jawline is rounded with no harsh lines.
»» The widest point is the cheeks.
»» The face resembles a inverted egg.
ROUND FACE: Full – looking face with a round chin and hairline. Widest point
is at the cheeks and ears
»» Round face shape

»» The forehead and jawline are roughly the same width.
»» The forehead is rounded.
»» The jawline is full and rounded, no angles or points.
»» The widest point is the cheeks
RECTANGULAR OR OBLONG : Long and slender, about the same width at

forehead and just below cheekbones. May have a very long hain or a very high
forehead.
»» The face is longer than it is wider.

»» The width of the face is narrow.
»» The jawline is softly rounded and may come to a point.
»» The forehead is rounded.
»» The forehead and jawline are similar in width.
»» The sides of your face are straight.
HEART / INVERTED TRIANGLE: Face is wide at the temples and hairline,

narrowing to be small delicate chin.

»» The forehead is the widest part of the face.
»» The sides of the cheeks taper down into the jawline.
»» The chin is narrow and pointed.

SQUARE : A strong, square jaw line and usually an equally square hairline.
»» Square face shape characteristics -

»» The length and width of the face is equal in size.
»» The sides of the face are straight.
»» The jaw is board and noticeably square shaped.
»» The chin is usually flat rather than pointed.
»» The cheeks are the widest point.
DIAMOND : A cross between heart and a dramatic oval. Widest at the

cheekbones, and narrow equally at the forehead and jaw line.

»» The forehead and jawline are similar in width.
»» The jawline is long and tapers into a pointed chin.
»» The cheeks are the widest part.
»» The cheeks are high.
Understanding of Facial Anatomy and Shapes and its relation to each other help to use makeup to
change the perceived size and shape of our features and create the best makeup

FACE CHART

COLOR THEORY
As a make-up artist, you will always have clients ask you: “What colors look best on me?” or “How do
I find the best foundation shade?” You know the answer will be different on each individual because
each of us is unique in our own way, and we Thus, you must have an understand about basic color
theory in order tochoose colors for you & your clients.To help us understand the basics of color theory,
we need know about a color wheel.
MAKEUP COLOR THEORY

To become successful in the art of makeup, the makeup artist must have a clear knowledge of theory
of color. It is essential that the makeup artist understands colors and how they react when combined.
What is Color?
»» Color is a form of light energy
»» All colors we see are contained in the visible spectrum
True white light is a mixture of light rays of all colors.
THE COLOR WHEEL

A Color Wheel is a tool inwhich there are 12 colors placed in a circle. The color wheel is divided
into three categories: Primary, Secondary, and Tertiary.The position of the colors on the circle
demonstrates the relationship of each primary color to the other colors on the color wheel.
P R I M A RY CO LO R S
Primary Colors: Red, yellow and blue

»» Individual colors
»» Cannot be obtained by mixing any colors
»» Every other color can be obtained from these colors
»» RED, YELLOW and BLUE are primary colors
»» Primary colors are triadic on the color wheel.
S ECO N DA RY CO LO R S
Secondary Colors: Green, orange and purple

»» Obtained by mixing two primary colors in equal proportions
»» ORANGE, GREEN and VIOLET are secondary colors
»» Secondary colors are also triadic on the color wheel.

T E RT I A RY CO LO R S
Tertiary Colors: Yellow-orange, red-orange, red-purple, blue-purple, blue-green & yellow-green.

These are the colors formed by mixing a primary its neighboring secondary color.
»» Obtained by mixing one primary color and its adjacent or neighboring secondary color on the
color wheel in equal proportions
»» YELLOW-GREEN, BLUE-GREEN, BLUE-VIOLET, RED-VIOLET, RED-ORANGE and YELLOW-
ORANGE are tertiary colors.
WA R M & CO O L CO LO R S
The color wheel can be divided into warm and cool colors. By understanding the differences of warm
& cool colors, it will help you better in foundation & concealer color matching on different color skin
tones.

Warm colors are bright, passionate and energetic, and tend to be eye-popping colors. Warm colors
include: red, orange, and yellow, and variations of those three colors. In make-up artistry, reds can
be both cool and warm. If the red is blue based (a red with purple or blue undertone), it is cool. If the
red is orange based, it is warm.
Cool colors give an impression of calm, and create a soothing impression. Cool colors include: violet,
blue, and green. In make-up artistry, the same theory applies with the color green. If a green has
more gold/yellow undertone, then it is warm. If a green contains more blue undertone, then it is cool.
Whenever most colors have a blue undertone, they will always be a
White, black and gray are considered to be neutral.
TINTS, SHADES, AND TONES
Hue: Another term used for color is Hue. These colors are basic and intense. Once you have the basic
colors, you can adjust them by adding white or black or gray, changing the brightness and density of
the colors.
If a color is made lighter by adding white, the result is called a tint. If black is added, the darker
version is called a shade. And if gray is added, the result is a different tone.
Tints - adding white to a pure hue:
Shades - adding black to a pure hue:
Tones - adding gray to a pure hue:

COLOR HARMONIES
COMPLEMENTARY COLOR SCHEME

Colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel are considered to be
complementary colors (example: red and green).
The high contrast of complementary colors creates a vibrant look Complementary

color schemes are tricky to use in large doses, but work well when you want
something to stand out.
ANALOGOUS COLOR SCHEME

Analogous color schemes use colors that are next to each other on the color
wheel. They usually match well and create serene look suited for Daytime make-
up. Analogous color schemes are often found in nature and are harmonious
and pleasing to the eye.
Choose one color to dominate, a second to support. The third color is used
(along with black, white or gray) as an accent.
TRIADIC COLOR SCHEME

A triadic color scheme uses colors that are evenly spaced around the color
wheel. Triadic color schemes tend to be quite vibrant, even if you use pale or
unsaturated versions of your hues.
To use a triadic harmony successfully, the colors should be carefully balanced -

let one color dominate and use the two others for accent.
SPLIT-COMPLEMENTARY COLOR SCHEME

The split-complementary color scheme is a variation of the complementary
color scheme. In addition to the base color, it uses the two colors adjacent to its
complement.
This color scheme has the same strong visual contrast as the complementary
color scheme, but has less tension.
U S I N G T H E C O L O R W H E E L T O A P P LY Y O U R
MAKEUP
Color wheel is the principal tool used for make-up application. It is used
throughout in all the facets of Makeup application. It is a primary Concealing,
Finalizing color schemes as per skin color, skin tone,Hair color, eyecolor,
outfit and as per client’s need and requirement.

CONCEALER & COLOR CORRECTING WITH COLOR WHEEL :
When you mix complimentary colors together (eg. mix red and
green), they will combine to produce a neutral brown. It doesn’t
mean you want to produce gray color on your face, it just means
you will use the opposite color to neutralize (or cancel out) the
color (skin tone or blemish) on your skin.
This theory is widely used for color correcting on the face and under eye concealing
Under-Eye concealer Application—If someone has a purple under-eye that you want to conceal, for
the best result, use a concealer with yellow undertone, OR use a yellow color corrector to neutralize
the purple under-eye first, then use a concealer on top to match the person’s natural skin tone.
The same theory works for people who have lots of dark blue under-eye color (which is often found
in darker, brownish skin tone), it is best to use an orange color corrector (or a mix of orange & ocher
colors) first to neutralize the dark blue under-eye, then use a concealer on top to match the person’s
natural skin tone.
COLOR SCHEME
C O M P L E M E N TA RY C O L O R S C H E M E
When complementary colors are placed next to each other they appear brighter. Used to achieve
greater amount of contrast. Used by make-up artist to enhance eye color and for Dramatic make up

M O N O C H R O M AT I C C O L O R S C H E M E
This color schemes use the same color with variation in value and intensity throughout the entire
makeup design.
ANALOGOUS COLOR
These schemes use three colors that are adjustment to each other on the color wheel. These color
combinations are often used for daytime make-up as shown by the arrow. Analogous color schemes
are often found in nature and are harmonious and pleasing to the eye.
Choose one color to dominate, a second to support. The third color is used (along with black, white
or gray) as an accent.

FLAWLESS BASE TECHNIQUES
Base creation or Foundation application is the primary step of makeup application. Just as to paint
a good portrait you need an even and uniform canvas, foundation is the canvas of any Makeup
application. To get an even and smooth foundation, concealing becomes an essential tool.
In the Makeup products chapter we have already studied in brief about different types of foundations.
This lesson will help you in understanding Correct Foundation choosing and application technique
Introduction to Foundation
Foundations (or bases) are used to cover flaws and create a clear, healthy-looking complexion in the
right uniform color. Choosing the right foundation (Texture & Color) is the primary step.
To achieve this there are few important facets that needs to be followed
»» Knowing Client’s skin type, tone and requirement.
»» Skin prep before Foundation application
»» How to choose the right foundation
»» Tools for foundation application
K N OW I N G YO U R S K I N T Y P E
NORMAL SKIN OILY SKIN DRY SKIN
The face will have an all over The face looks and feels dry and
Complexion is even.
shine. tight.
The surface of the skin is neither The face leaves behind acne Cream-based, liquid foundations
too oily nor too dry. and pigmentation marks. are advisable.
Lotion-based foundations are Oil free, liquid or HD Applying a compact powder on

recommended. foundations are appropriate. dry skin can make it feel parched.

S K I N P R E PA R AT I O N
Cleansing, toning & Moisturizing should be the first step of your

makeup.
Moisturizers - They not only hydrate the skin but help make-up
go on smoothly and properly adhere to the skin.
Primers - This pre-makeup primer temporarily fills in and

smoothes imperfections in the skin, allowing foundation to cling
to your complexion, creating a smooth look.
H O W T O C H O O S E T H E R I G H T F O U N D AT I O N
Skin tone is so important in choosing the right makeup. Understanding of skin color & skin tone is the
starting point for makeup. Everything else is determined by the skin color and tone – Eye shadow, lip
color etc…
VERY FAIR FAIR MEDIUM OLIVE DARK BLACK
Those with cool undertones will notice their skin has a pink,
red, or blue tinge to it. You have a “cool” undertone if:
»» If the veins on your wrist are blue or purple
»» If silver jewelry flatters your skin more than gold
»» When you look at your skin in the sun, it appears
bluish
Those with warm undertones will notice their skin has

a yellow, gold, or peach tinge to it. You have a “warm”
undertone if:
»» The veins on your wrist are slightly green or olive
»» Gold jewelry flatters your skin more than silver
yellowish

If you have neutral undertones, your skin is neither pink/red/
blue nor yellow/gold/peach, but somewhere in between.
You have a “neutral” undertone if:
»» The veins on your wrist are blue-green
»» Both gold and silver jewelry flatter your skin
greenish
The foundation should match the person’s skin tone and look natural, providing an even film of color
and cover minor irregularities of skin
Before applying foundation always start with

clean, moisturized skin. Any dry, flaky skin
patches will be highlighted.
There are three parts of the body you have

to think about: the face, the neck, and the
décolletage— “The most natural thing would be
to match your neck
To test a foundation shade, place a tiny amount

on the cheeks, If the color is correct, it will blend
easily with the natural tone of the skin. The Best
Foundation Will Disappear on Your Face
T O O L S F O R F O U N D AT I O N A P P L I C AT I O N
There are various tools that can be used to apply foundation including your fingers, a sponge, and
several varieties of foundation brushes, each providing a different finish.
FINGERS:
Using your fingers is great for creating a natural look. The natural body heat in your fingers helps the
foundation to melt into your skin and it’s easy to blend in a sheer layer of makeup. Using your fingers
isn’t recommended for applying full cover makeup though as streaks and finger marks can occur.
SPONGE
Using a sponge to apply foundation is great for creating a sheer to medium cover look. A triangular
sponge is good for blending in liquid foundation and concealer, whilst a rounded sponge is best for
powder foundations. Wet a clean sponge with water first: the moisture will help prevent the sponge
from absorbing the makeup and will also assist in blending. Reusing sponges can be unhygienic, so
sponges should be washed and dried thoroughly after every use.
BRUSH:
For liquid foundation, a brush with a synthetic bristle is recommended as the brush won’t soak up
too much of the liquid. Alternatively, a natural bristle which is more porous works best for powder
foundations such as mineral makeup. A densely bristled brush is best for foundation as it is less likely
to leave tell-tale streaky brush marks. As with all tools used to apply makeup to the face, brushes
should be soft and gentle, as anything too stiff will scratch and irritate the skin.

AIRBRUSH
Liquid foundation is applied with an air stream. The airbrush mixes the foundation with a controllable
stream of compressed air. It adheres with the skin as millions of tiny droplets of foundation. This
technique can create an even, sheer, natural appearance to the skin that, if applied properly for a
natural look, can appear natural and non-heavy like traditional makeup. Airbrush makeup application
is also frequently used in special effects makeup.
F O U N D AT I O N A P P L I C AT I O N T E C H N I Q U E
When applying the foundation, bear these steps on mind:

»» Start with the T zone and spread downwards
»» Eliminate excess with a clean sponge
»» Apply a small quantity and build on it little by little
Foundation application using finger tips / Sponge: The direction of foundation application when
applying with the fingertips or sponge – the face should be split into two areas and the application
should always begin from the centre, moving towards the outside areas.
First you should cover the forehead, then the cheeks and chin. Most important is the careful
application of foundation around the hairline, as this is the area where excess product is most often
collected; it is very difficult to remove later. Inexperienced make-up artists often make the mistake
of “rubbing” the foundation into the hairline, and then with a clean sponge, carefully smudge the
border. Application with a latex sponge gives an unmistakably smooth look to the skin, therefore it’s
important to also apply the product to the neck and cleavage.
Foundation application with a brush: Make-up artists have only recently begun utilizing specially
made brushes during the application of foundation. This is a technique which gives a similar effect
to the same application with the fingertips. The skin maintains its texture and, as a result, is very
natural and modern looking.
The product should be applied on to a special foundation mixing palette or a spatula, from there,
with the help of a brush, on to the skin. You have a choice of two commonly used techniques –
»» Technique I:The method of application is not different to that described earlier for fluid or
compact foundation application. You should remember the rules of correct application: the
direction (towards the outside of the face) and the technique of applying the product in
a gentle arch, so that the product doesn’t accentuate the wrinkles or enlarged pores, nor
clump in the furrows of the skin.
»» Technique II:The product is applied to the skin using small, circular motions, side by side. The
make-up then looks natural and the foundation only smoothes out the skin tone, without
affecting the skin’s texture. This technique is currently the more popular and is called “buffing”
the skin.

“BUFFING”
This new technique of foundation application using a brush has become more popular amongst
make-up artists. Buffing is most often used for the applications of several foundation colors, which
are applied in points, directly to the face and mixed only once on the skin. It’s the one technique which
allows for creation of an optical contour in a very simple way, yet is incredibly efficient. The foundation
is applied to the skin using circular motions. The effect we create when using this technique can be
called a natural version of ‘glamour’ make-up. The outline of the face is noticeably diffused; the
oval acquires an optical softening, which is particularly effective for photographic make-up. The
technique involves the following steps:
»» Cover the areas, which in your opinion should be highlighted, with points of lighter foundation.
These are most often the central areas of the forehead, the cheeks and the chin, because in
this wau, the structure of the face becomes more voluminous.
»» Using circular motions with a brush, spread the foundation so that there are no noticeable
color divides
CONCEALING
Foundation can makes a huge difference in the appearance of your skin but It is handicapped to
give you the result if blemishes like appearance of ruddy spots, scars, acne, pigmentations, dark
circles and dullness is not diminished. While concealer can brighten and uplift your darker areas, for
imperfections like deeper dark circles and acne spots correctors play a major role.
CONCEALERS
Concealers are of a denser composition of foundations with more pigment to cover imperfections.
They can be 2 shades lighter and are applied before using the harmony foundation.
»» E.g. For pale skin , choosing a lighter color than your skin tone is sufficient
»» It is important that you have two Concealers in your vanity. Choose one light textured, light-
reflecting formula to cover minor blemishes and the under-eye area, and one thicker formula
with good staying power for general blemishes.
»» A wax textured concealer (a shade lighter than your foundation), and a firm bristled make-up
brush to apply it with, you should be able to cover most imperfections and fill minor pock-
marks.
»» The under-eye concealer should be one or two shades lighter than your foundation, and
should be applied either with your ring finger, or a soft-bristled, flat make-up brush. Push
the product right up to the lower-lash line and into the corners of the eye for an even finish.
»» A secret for disguising puffy eyes is to apply a light shade of concealer to the dark shadow
beneath the puff, then a slightly darker shade on the puff itself. This gives the illusion of a flat
even surface and, when executed with a skilled hand, eradicates all signs of a late out.
CORRECTORS
Correctors neutralize the darkest areas under your eyes allowing the concealer to both lighten and
blend into your skin.Colour correctors, also known as neutralizers, are used to ‘correct’ hard-to-
cover skin discolorations caused by acne, hyper-pigmentation and other such problems.
They are based on the idea that when you want to neutralize a colour, you place its opposing colour
over it (BASIC COLOUR THEORY - a colour wheel is extremely helpful here). That is why, for example,
colour correctors for red-toned skin are green tinted.

The undertones of skin colours are either predominantly blues (cool) or red (warm) in appearance; if
skin has a higher proportion of yellow pigment, it will appear warm as well.
»» If your skin is beige toned and you have blue or green undertones, yellow or peach based
correctors will even out the skin tone by neutralizing the blue
»» Red based correctors will neutralize the green.
»» A yellow/ Orange corrector can be used also to hide black, blue or purple blemishes like dark
under-eye circles and bruises.
»» Green correctors can help even out ruddy complexions or to cover up Rosacea &Ance
»» For brown toned skin to hide blue and grey undertones, choose a peach-orange based
corrector.
»» To neutralize a yellow toned skin tone, use a lavender/purple/orchid shade corrector.
»» Using a white corrector (in fair complexions) and a soft yellow or peach corrector (in darker
complexions) around the eye area on both corners will make blood shot eyes appear more
fresh and open.
»» Also lining the inner lower eye-line (waterline of the eye) with a white or beige will have the
same effect.
HOW TO APPLY NEUTRALIZERS/ CORRECTORS

»» Use fingers as they will help warm up the product and pat it on the desired areas. Concealer
brushes can also be used.
»» Don’t dip directly into the product to avoid the risk of contamination. Use a spatula or a
cotton swab to spoon out the desired amount of product.
»» Be conservative in your application. You shouldn’t need a lot of product. Just a few pin-sized
drops or swabs would suffice, especially when dealing with creams or thicker consistencies.
»» Blend the corrector over the area you want to cover with fingertips, sponge or a brush. Blend
the foundation over it and finish off with a powder. Be careful not to use too much powder
over the affected area as it might end up looking ‘cakey’ or ‘cracked’.
P O W D E R A P P L I C AT I O N
Powder sets the concealer and foundation and locks the make-up, keeping the skin looking fresh Like
foundation, powder works when it is the right shade. Should be applied with the help of a powder
brush or a powder puff.

»» For all skin types to avoid a shiny appearance
»» Lends a light to medium coverage & has a matte finish look.
»» Evens out the skin tone, hides the imperfections and absorbs the excess oil.
Translucent powder contains a unique modified rice starch. This ensures greater absorbtion and
enhances the durability of the make-up on the skin. It gives a finesse with a natural look
Anti- shine powder – It is a special colorless, matt powder used to obtain a flawless look whilst
eliminating shine. Uses after you have set your foundation with Kryolan translucent powder.
Compact powder - A one-step powder and foundation that provides a smooth, flawless, all-matte,
full-coverage finish. It contains Silica helps to maintain a matte finish by absorbing oils on the skin,
as well as Talc to provide a smoother, less reflective, matte finish. The talc has been milled to a
microscopic size to provide a beautiful texture while allowing the skin to breathe. It can be applied
with a brush, sponge, or a powder puff
TIPS & TRICKS
»» Use a dabbing or stippling technique to cover any blemish or mark (concealing)
»» Blending is the best way to get a flawless finish to foundation
»» Light colours come forward, and Dark colours go back. You can bring forward you’re
best featured by highlighting! And hide what you don’t like by Contouring
»» Using powder products will give you a more natural matte look.
»» Using creamy products to highlight and contour will give you a more fresh and dewy
look.
»» Start by Highlighting FIRST. Sometimes when you do this, you won’t need as much
contouring. It will stop it from being heavy.
»» Finishing of your make-up with a simple sparkly highlight onto the high planes of the
face can add extra glamour!

UNDERSTANDING LIGHTING
Lighting controls makeup to a high degree. Makeup can lose its effectiveness due to incorrect lighting.
Conversely, skillful lighting can greatly aid the art of makeup. Close communication between the
lighting director and the makeup artist is crucial for the best possible effect.
Understanding light’s effect on makeup and various shades and pigments is important when
designing a makeup.
BASIC RULES OF LIGHT
»» Nothing has color until light is reflected from

it
»» An object appears black when all of the light
is absorbed
»» An object appears white when all of the light
is reflected.
»» If certain rays are absorbed and others are
reflected, the reflected rays determine the
color.
QUALITIES OF LIGHT
From an aesthetic perspective, different qualities of light can make our faces look very different. The
hour of the day, the season of the year, or the distance from the equator can affect the colors we
see in light.
Different colors are associated with temperatures.
BLUE LIGHT
Most colors on your face can reflect blue light, except for red tones. So any reddish spot--like acne
or under-eye circles--will absorb blue light, darkening and accentuating the area. Orange will also
absorb the blue light and darken significantly, which is why orange-toned makeup like blush and
bronzer will appear brown.
Blue light makeup conclusions:

»» Light-reflective foundations and highlighters help camouflage dullness and disguise red
areas and under-eye circles.
»» Cool to neutral-toned colors stay truer to color than warmer colors.
»» Red and pink lipsticks look deeper and darker.
»» Blue eye makeup stands out dramatically.
»» Orange tones reflect as brown.

WHITE LIGHT
The light given off by the sun is white light all year long and for most of the day. White light is by
far the most versatile color of light because of it can be reflected by any color. This means colored
makeup looks truest under this light.
The white light shows the colors in this makeup in their truest form.
White light makeup conclusions:

»» Wear whatever you would like! The colors will look true. This is the favorite light of makeup
artists.
YELLOW LIGHT
Yellow light is a flattering one for the skin. It still looks bright, because it has a lot of white in it, but it
looks warm because of the lack of blue wavelengths.
The yellow light softens and evens skin tone while erasing the blue tones from the lipstick.
Yellow light makeup conclusions:

»» Gold tones, such as a golden highlighter or gold eye makeup, are significantly accentuated.
»» Blue tones in lipstick or eye makeup are diminished.
»» The skin looks warmer and more even, camouflaging blemishes and reducing the need for
foundation and concealer.
ORANGE LIGHT
This is a dramatic light that can have a remarkable effect on makeup. Reds and oranges in the skin
tone are reflected back strongly. This can have a flattering, warm effect on the skin that disguises
small blemishes and uneven skin tone. On the other hand, it can highlight redness in the skin, such
as rosacea.
Orange light makeup conclusions

»» The reddish light reflects red tones strongly, which can highlight acne and rosacea.
»» Small blemishes and under-eye circles disappear in the orange glow.
»» Red makeup stands out strongly. Blush can quickly overwhelm a face. Red lipstick looks
strong and bright.
»» Bluish and green tones do not show up at all.
»» Bronze, brown, and orange makeup are showcased.
»» In our daily lives, the light on our faces can change significantly, and it has a big impact on
color choice for makeup. This is one of the reasons that red-carpet makeup is so tricky to do;
one makeup look needs to work in daylight, sunset, incandescent light, and stage light.

THE BEST LIGHTING FOR MAKEUP
Natural light is best for putting on makeup but this is not always possible as you could be getting
ready when it’s dark out, your makeup area could be out of the way of natural light. The Daylight
colored bulb is the closest shade to natural daylight you can get from artificial lighting and is best
used at a low wattage to provide the best lighting for your makeup application.
It is better to use a softer light for putting on makeup because it’s more flattering and lets you put
the right amount of makeup on. To have a softer light you should have something to diffuse it slightly
such as a satin finish on the bulb or a thin lampshade. It is also a good idea to use a lower wattage
bulb as too high a wattage will give you a washed out appearance leaving you to overcompensate
with more makeup or could even result in you using the wrong color for your skintone.
It’s best to avoid CFLs or Fluorescent lighting for your makeup application areas. While you may prefer
those lights elsewhere in the home, the light they will cast on your skin will be harsh and unflattering.
This could lead again to far too much makeup as the light can adjust your color perception.
These are good rules to apply when buying makeup too. When testing makeup on your hand take it to
the nearest source of natural light and compare it to your skin there to get a true colour comparison.

HIGHLIGHTING AND CONTOURING
The first rule is to remember that highlighting an area emphasizes

a feature. Shadowing an area minimizes it. Highlighting uses colors
that are a shade or more light than a person’s natural skin tone,
while shadowing uses darker shades. The second rule is that the
ideal face should be oval shaped, approximately three-fourths wide
as it is long.
Contouring is a makeup technique in which you use color darker

than your skin tone to create natural shadows in the face, giving a
more defined, sculpted appearance.
Highlighting is a exactly opposite where shade lighter to your skin

tone is used to to uplift features
Proper highlight and contour can completely transform your bone
structure. Not everyone needs to contour- if you feel that you
already have prominent features or that your face is thin, it is best
to skip contouring as you may appear too “chiselled”.
While contouring, choose foundation2 shades darker than your skin tone and 2 shades lighter for
highlighting
Use a light hand while contouring, especially around the nose area. Less is more!
Blend out any harsh edges so it really looks like a natural shadow a if you have beautiful dark
skin, just stick to highlighting
CO N TO U R I N G & H I G H L I G H T I N G A P P L I C AT I O N
TECHNIQUE
»» Apply skin care and Foundation to face and neck

»» Set Lightly with Powder through the T-zone of the face
»» With your highlighting product apply the light colour onto the high planes of the face.
»» Tops of the cheekbones
»» Brow bones
»» Down the bridge of the nose
»» The bow of the lip
»» Then with your contour color, apply the darker color to the shadows of your face
»» Under your cheek bones
»» Into the sockets of your eyes and out to your temples
»» Make sure the colors are blended well and into each other for seamless skin!

HIGHLIGHTING & CONTOURING AS PER FACE
SHAPE
For Highlighting & Contouring Face shape is always the first consideration. We have already studied
face shapes in the Facial anatomy chapter. So we are aware of the basic face shapes like Oval,
round, Squared, Heart-shaped (wide forehead, narrow jaw), Diamond-shaped (wide cheekbones)
and Oblong (a long and narrow face).
The goal is to make the face as oval and as proportionate as possible. Corrective make-up takes
the face shapes into consideration and uses highlighting and shadowing to add width where it is
needed, or to conceal excess width.
OVAL FACE
An oval face shape is perfectly symmetrical. The eyes are separated by an eye’s length; the forehead
is wider than the lower face. This bone structure works with just about any makeup look.
An oval face needs is a Bronzer in a “3”shape from

the forehead to cheekbones and then to the chin
in order to accentuate the ideal features that the
face already has. This face shape can pull off latest
trends and colours very easily.
Next comes eyebrows. Arched brows can give a

more oval shape. So follow natural shape of brow
bones and tweeze that way.
While doing makeup for eyes or lips, concentrate on

any one feature, either eyes or lips keeping the other
simple .
ROUND FACE
The round face is circular. It appears to be short and wide rather than long and narrow. Often called
a full face, it is characterized by a rounded hairline and chin line as well.
The objective is to slenderize the face, which can be

done by applying darker foundation on the sides of
the face, thus shadowing excess width and creating
the illusion of extra length.
Highlight the forehead, area under the eyes and the

chin to draw attention to the centre of your face.
A blush can be applied just beneath the cheekbones

in order to give them definition, or apply it directly to
the apples of the cheeks to accentuate their perfect
shape. Do apply the blush in upward strokes to give
a slimming effect.
A little care needs to be taken regarding the colours as bright colours only accentuate the roundness
of the face.

SQUARE SHAPED FACE
It is usually characterized by a broad, straight forehead and hairline, with a broad, square jaw line.
Contouring can be used to soften the angularity and

reduce the width, shading the area directly below
the cheekbones and blending toward the center of
the jaw line aids in reducing width.
Apply blush in a rounded shape on the apples of

the cheeks, make sure that you sweep the makeup
brush upward towards the temples to create a more
symmetrical shape.
Pear-shaped face: It is characterized by a wide jaw

and narrow forehead.
The goal is to create width at the forehead, using highlighting, and to slenderize the jaw by shadowing.
Contouring can be used to reduce the width at the bottom of the face. Because the forehead is
smaller than the jaw area, it is necessary to add shading directly on the cheekbone and to deepen
the natural fullness on the sides of the face.
OBLONG FACE
The oblong (rectangular) face shape tends to be long, narrow and angular. This face, which is
basically an elongated oval, can be visually shortened by applying deeper tones under the chin This
face needs width the most, so lighter colors are used.
Make your eye lashes look bigger and more dramatic

by using double curling (before and after use of
mascara) or you may even experiment with darker
false lashes.
So contouring across the lower section of the chin

and horizontally at the hairline and temples helps to
shorten the face length.
Try to keep lips minimum and rosy pink, they look the
best and wide, to make face appear fuller.
Coming to the nose, like for oval face you do a side shadowing. Here do a top shadowing technique,
do not use shadowing on sides of nose, let it remain covered in foundation. Sweep the top of nose
bone with a bronzer.
Blush should be applied to the apples of the cheek to widen your face.

HEART-SHAPED FACE:
A wider forehead with a narrow jaw line and chin line characterize a heart-shaped face.
Width across the forehead can be minimized

by contouring or shading while the jaw line can
be widened with highlighting. Contouring is not
required on the lower part of this face shape,
because it naturally diminishes in size. However, due
to the wideness in the forehead, contouring along
the temples will reduce the appearance of excessive
width.
A red or berry lip colour and light blush takes the

attention away from the strong cheekbones.
DIAMOND-SHAPED FACE:
It is identified by predominant width through the
cheekbones that is contrasted by a narrow forehead
and chin and jaw area.
Width through the cheekbones can be minimized

with contouring and the jaw and forehead can be
made to look wider with highlighting.
Contouring is necessary to reduce the high points of

the forehead and the extended portion of the chin to
create balance.

PRODUCTS USED FOR CONTOURING &
HIGHLIGHTING
POWDER BASED CREAM BASED
CONTOURING
A darker powder/cream/concealer/foundation or bronzer that is 2 shades darker than your skin
tone: I personally feel that bronzers and face powders are great to work with. You don’t want to use
a shimmery, warm, orange toned bronzer because you’re trying to create a shadow and a natural
effect like your face is naturally sculpted & shimmery. Concealers and foundations have a very
creamy consistency, hence require a bit more blending with a sponge as well as with a stippling
brush to make the contour look most natural.
HIGHLIGHTER
A powder or cream formula will look great as a highlighter. Highlighters are every makeup artist’s
secret trick. You’ll love using it once you learn about it’s placement.
BEFORE AFTER

TIPS & TRICKS
»» Use a dabbing or stippling technique to cover any blemish or mark

(concealing)
»» Blending is the best way to get a flawless finish to foundation
»» Light colours come forward, and Dark colours go back. You can bring
forward you’re best featured by highlighting! And hide what you don’t like
by Contouring
»» Using powder products will give you a more natural matte look.
»» Using creamy products to highlight and contour will give you a more fresh
and dewy look.
»» Start by Highlighting FIRST. Sometimes when you do this, you won’t need
as much contouring. It will stop it from being heavy.
»» Finishing of your make-up with a simple sparkly highlight onto the high
planes of the face can add extra glamour!

COLOR APPLICATION
Once the Foundation is done then comes choosing color for the Makeup scheme. Choice of color for
eyes, lips and cheeks depends on the look designed and the make up finalized.
COLOR CHOICES
There are three main components to consider when picking colors to use. These three components
are skin color, eye color, and hair color.
Choosing color for eyes, lips and cheeks as per Skin tone
Skin Colours Warm Cool
Light Skin Yellow, Gold, Pale Peach Pink or slightly reddish (rosy) undertones
Medium Skin Yellow, Yellow- Orange, Red Olive (yellow-green)
Dark Skin Red, Orange-Brown, Red-Brown Dark Olive, Blue, Blue-Black, Ebony
»» For a person with a light skin tone, use light colors for a soft, natural look, but using medium
to dark colors will give a more dramatic look.
»» For a person with a medium skin tone, medium colors will create an understated look, but by
using light or dark tones will give more contrast and appear bolder.
»» For a person with a dark skin tone, dark colors will be most subtle, but medium to medium-
light or bright colors will be vivid.
»» If you want to use a color that is lighter than your skin tone, look for translucent, shimmery
colors.
After you have chosen eye make-up use the color wheel to determine whether your choices are
warm or cool and then coordinate cheek and lip makeup in the same color family as the eye make-
up or go for other makeup schemes as per the look desired and designed by you as per the clients
requirement.
»» As you begin recommending eye, cheek, and lip colors, neutrals will always be always be your
safest choice.
»» They contain elements of warm and cool and work well on any skin tone, eye color, or hair
color.
»» They come in variations of brown or gray.
»» For instance, they may have a warm or cool base with brown tones. Or you might choose
a plum-brown, which would be considered a cool neutral. An orange-brown would be
considered a warm neutral. Charcoal gray is a cool neutral, as is blue-gray.

EYE SHADOW
Eye makeup is the most important part of Makeup application. It can accentuate makeup or make
it a disaster. Polishing the eyes with an eye shadow is the simplest yet most tricky when it comes to
choosing an eye shadow
EYE SHADOW COLORS SHOULD BE CHOSEN ON THESE 3 CRITERIA:

»» Eye Color
»» Skin color
»» Hair Color
The popular belief of matching eye color with shadow color is not the best way to enhance this area
as it only creates a flat region of color. By contrasting eye color with complementary colors, you
emphasize the color most effectively.
The following is a guideline for eye color selection.

»» Determine skin level: light, medium, or dark.
»» Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, or neutral.
»» Determine eye color: blue, green, brown, and so forth.
»» Determine complementary colors.
»» Determine hair color: warm or cool.
»» Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary or contrasting colors.
»» Coordinate cheek and lip colors within the same color family: warm, color, or neutral.
»» Apply makeup.
COMPLEMENTARY COLOR CHOICES FOR EYE COLORS ARE SUMMARIZED BELOW.
Complementary colors for blue eyes.

Orange is the complementary color to blue. Because orange contains yellow and red, shadows with
any of these colors in them will make eyes look bluer. Common choices include gold, warm orange-
browns like peach and copper, red-browns like mauves and plum, and neutrals like taupe or camel.
Complementary colors for green eyes.

Red is the complementary color to green. Because red shadows tend to make the eyes look tired
or blood shot , pure red tones are not recommended. Instead, use brown based red or other color
options next to red on the color wheel. These include red-orange, red-violet and violet. Popular
choices are coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve and purples.
Complementary colors for brown eyes.

Brown eyes are neutral and can wear any color. Recommended choices include contrasting colors
such as greens, blues, grays and silvers.

HAIR COLOR AND EYE COLOR
»» Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup color.
»» For example, if a woman has blue eyes, your instinct might be to select orange-base eye
makeup as the complementary choice. But if she has cool blue-black hair, the orange will
not be a more flattering choice. Look at orange on the color wheel: it is warm. Go around the
wheel toward the cool end. Red – violets are the closest to orange on the color wheel while
remaining cool.
HAIR COLOUR WARM COOL
Blond hair Yellow, orange White-blond, ash
Red hair Gold, copper, orange, red Red-violet, violet
Brown hair Yellow, gold, orange Ash
Dark brown/black hair Copper, red Violet, blue
EYESHADOW APPLICATION
For an effective eye makeup application it is primary to understand the parts of eye and the eye
makeup terminology
PARTS OF THE EYE FOR EYE MAKEUP

BROW BONE / HIGHLIGHT
Brow Bone as name suggest is the area (skin) on top of the bone
of the eye, and below the eyebrows. In other words, It is the space
between the crease and the eyebrow. Mostly light colors are used to
highlight this eye part, which can either a lighter shade of the color
applied on lid/crease, or a shimmery shade that is close to your skin
shade.
CONTOUR / ABOVE CREASE
We usually call it “blend out” area. Mostly during eye makeup strong
colors are used on the lid and the crease area. This eye part (above
crease) is usually used to blendout the excess of color applied between
the brow bone and the lid. Which means while moving upwards
starting from the lid towards the brow, tone down the shade from
dark to light. Lighter shade of lid color or highlight color can be used
to fade the strong colors.
SOCKET LINE / CREASE
Crease is the fold on the upper eye lid where eye naturally folds.
When you half close your eye, you can see a defined line above your
eyeball and that is your crease. A shade or two darker than the lid
color is usually used at the crease cut to better define the eye.
LID - INNER LID / MIDDLE LID / OUTER LID
We have divided the eyelid area in three parts to make you give
a closer look to the most important part for the application of eye
shadow. Usually single color is used at this part of the eye. Starting
from the inner lid, color shade blends from light to dark; just make
sure the darker shades are at the outer lid and lighter towards the
inner.
INNER LID : – Usually lightest shade of your chosen color is used to

highlight the inner lid.
MIDDLE LID :- Usually medium tone of your chosen color is used to

highlight the middle lid.
OUTER LID :- Usually darker shade of your chosen color is used to

highlight the outer lid.

INNER / OUTER LOWER LASH LINE
Usually single color is used at this part of the eye. Starting from the
inner lash line, color shade blends from light to dark; just make sure
the darker shades are at the outer part of the lash line and lighter
towards the inner. Usually, a thin color line that is similar to the colors
used on the lids is applied to the lower lash line. Or you can simple
apply eyeliner to define your eyes.
OUTER V
The outer “V” is the outer V-shape of the eye where your lid ends.
Outlining the outer edge of the eyeball defines the outer “V” of an
eye. Usually darker colors are used to highlight the outer “V” area.
INNER V / TEAR DUCT
Inner “V” or Tear duct is the area around the natural tear duct of your
eye. You can either apply the inner lid shade or a highlight color to
make your eyes look larger and brighter.
UPPER / LOWER WATERLINE
Waterline as name suggest the watery area inside the lash line also
known as the inner rim. Mostly people apply kajal on the water line to
define the eye.

EYE SHADOW APPLICATION TOOLS
Eye shadow brush
To apply eyeshadow over the lid or to create a very defined line in the
crease of the eye. The best use for packing color onto the eye lid.
Angular brush
Used to sweep shadow over a large area or the tip to place shadow
into the crease. The angled shadow brush is perfect for adding a
dark shadow into your outer “V.”
Blending brush
These fluffy brushes are used for blending once you are done with
application
Smudge brush
The smudge brush is currently used to create a sultry, smoky eye

look. These brushes have shorter and denser bristles than a regular
fluff brush. A stiffer brush will “smudge” more than a more flexible
brush.
Pencil brush
Perfect for very precise application of a color, these small brushes

have a nice rounded tip. They also work for blending small areas or
applying shadow to your crease.

Crease brush
A little larger than a pencil brush, the crease brush To make sure you
hit the exact right spot above your crease, tilt your head back a little
as you apply.
Slanted liner brush
This brush has a slanted tip which makes it a bit easier to use at an
angle to your eye. It is easier to use on your brow than the flat tipped
brush, and I’ve found that it is great to swipe over your pencil liner to
smooth out the application.
Bent brush
To apply liner to your lash line. Also for underneath your lash line
(tight lined) The little bend in the handle with a bent liner brush really
helps a lot with getting your liner right into the lash line.
Spoolie
A spoolie is also great to run through your lashes before your mascara
dries to help push up your lashes and remove clumps
Lash & Brow comb
Comb through my lashes a little to separate them and remove any

clumps in between coats of mascara

EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
»» Eye primer
»» Eye base
»» Eye shadow
»» Pigments
»» Glitter
»» Eyeliner
»» Eye Kohl
»» Mascara
»» Eyebrow groomer
»» False Lashes
EYE SHADOW MAKE UP SCHEMES
MONOCHROMATIC ANALOGOUS COMPLEMENTARY
MONOCHROMATIC COLOUR SCHEME

This colour schemes use the same colour with variation in value and intensity throughout the entire
makeup design
ANALOGOUS COLOR SCHEMES

Uses three colors that are adjustment to each other on the color wheel. These color combinations
are often used for Daytime make-up
COMPLEMENTARY COLOR
These schemes are created by combining colors from opposite sides of the color wheel. Often used
for Dramatic make up

LIPSTICK
LIP COLOR
Lip color, lipstick, or gloss is a cosmetic in paste form. Some lip colors contain sunscreen protect the
lips from the harmful effects of the sun. Others contain moisturizers to keep lips from becoming dry
or chapped.
Choosing Lip Color - Lipsticks come in a variety of colors. Consider the client’s preferences, eye color,
skin tone, and lip shape before variety of colors, textures and forms, selecting and applying lip color.
»» Lip color must not be applied directly from the container unless it belongs to the client.
»» Use a spatula to remove the lip color from the container, then take it from the spatula with a
disposable lip brush. Use the tip of the brush to line the lips.
»» Connect the center peaks using rounded strokes, following the natural lip line. Aim for
symmetry and balance.
Whatever the client prefers, brighter or darker colors, shimmer colors or matte colors, lip application
should be done in the following manner
»» Apply liner color to the lips. Fill in the lip line with pencil and blot.
»» Add similar color in lipstick over the entire mouth with a lip brush or applicator.
»» Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or applicator.

BLUSHER
Blusher – Blushers are pressed color powder cosmetic used to bring a healthy
and fresh toned look to makeup. Blushers are cream based and powder based.
Nowadays Powder blushers are popular over cream based blushers. Some
good quality blushers are silicone based an ingredient which gives a satiny and
natural finish to makeup.
CHOOSING BLUSHERS
Blushers come in variety of shades and are chosen as per the undertone
of the client to give a natural finesse to make up
»» Peach / orange based blushers are used for yellow undertone
client like client with medium skin tone
»» Pink blushers are used for client with rosy undertones generally
client having a fair skin tone
»» Red / warmer pinks are used for client with red undertones like for
Medium to dark and dark complexions.
BLUSHER APPLICATION
»» Use a darker blush color under the cheekbones to add definition. Apply with a blush brush or
applicator and blend carefully. Add a brighter, lighter cheek color to the apples of the cheeks
and blend.
»» Use a cheek color with shimmer or glitter over the cheekbones for highlight. You may use
cream or powder colors.

MAKEUP LOOKS
Some Basic Make up looks to get you started.
GROOMING MAKEUP
It is a self makeup art and can be used for daily purpose. It makes one look presentable. It Ideal for
a corporate meeting or a job interview, it also can be done for college events and casual outings.
Includes application of foundation giving a sheer coverage like tinted moisturizers and mousse.
Concelaing is done only if required on the concerned areas. Nuetral shades like browns and peaches
are mostly used for eyes and lips.
BEAUTY MAKE UP
Beauty makeup is a makeup look that enhances facial features. It is a makeup which can be soft as
well as strong depending on the requirement of the client. All steps from concealing to contouring
are followed to achieve this look.The look can be soft or Strong depending on the colors chosen.
Choice of lighter or natural colors in matte texturegive a softer appearance whereas bolder colors
with metallic or frosty textures is used to create a stronger effect. Day makeup and evening makeup
are good example of Beauty makeup variations.
DAY MAKE UP
As the term signifies Day makeup is used for Daytime events or functions. It is mostly kept matte by
avoiding products that have high amount of shimmer or glitter, since the reflectors in the glitter or
shimmer tend to bounce off the sunlight.
EVENING MAKEUP
Evening make up usually differs from daytime makeup in depth and color. Deeper and daeker colrs
with Metallic amd frosted textures are used moslty for an evening look. Smokey eyes really fit the bill
in this segement.
SPECIAL OCCASION MAKEUP

Make up play an integral part of any festive occasion or function. It enhances the beauty of the
entire dressing and makes a person look special for the function.Irrespective it is traditional or
contemporary makeup styles can be customized to every occasion.

DAY M A K E U P
Wash and Sanitize Hands
Drape client and position the headband or hairnet to keep hair off
of face. Using cotton and eye makeup remover or cleansing lotion,
perform downward and inward strokes to remove makeup, natural
oils or debris. Remove lip color with tissue , beginning from the outer
corner to centre on both sides of lips
PREPARE SKIN
Apply lightweight cleanser using a dampened cotton or gauze pad.

Remove cleanser.

Apply toner using a cotton pad
Apply moisturizer to prepare the skin for base using a cotton swab
Apply eye crème using a cotton swab around the delicate eye area
to give skin a smoother texture
Assess face shape an skin tone,eyebrow shape, eye shape and lip
shape
GROOM EYEBROWS
Brush brows up and determine natural growth direction
Tweeze stray hairs to achieve the final shape

BASE AND CONCEALER
Select the appropriate base color by applying stripes of base to the

side of the face. The color that disappears into the skin after blending
is correct choice
Apply and blend base starting at middle of face. With a damp or

dry sponge use a dabbing and stippling motion until all products is
evenly dispersed all over the face.
Apply concealer as needed. Use a camouflage brush beginning at

the outside edges of the eyes, sides of nose and corners of mouth.
Blend with sponge so that concealer edges disappear.
POWDER
Using a powder puff folded in half, apply loose powder on face to set
the base.
Use a large powder fluff brush to blend away excess powder
EYEBROW COLOR
Select and apply eyebrow color that complements the clients hair
color. With a detail angled brush , feather eyebrow color into eyebrow
hairs for added definition

Blend eyebrow color using an eyebrow brush. To soften color, use a
fluff brush with a small amount of loose powder, and sweep across
brows
EYE SHADOW
Apply highlighter over eyelid using a small flat chisel brush
Use a small, fluff brush to apply lid or contour color to bring depth to
the outside . lower edges of the lids. Continue to blend well.
EYELINER AND MASCARA
Apply eyeliner across lashline by holding eyelid with thumb and apply
gentle pressure.
Blend eyeliner with a detail angled brush
Raise the eyelid by gently lifting the eyebrow skin and curl eyelashes

Apply mascara by holding up eyelid and applying minimal pressure
with thumb. Add mascara to the bottom lashes at the outer edges
only, if desired
LIP COLOR
Apply lip liner by outlining the outer edges of the lips .Use short
feathering strokes to create the desired shape.
Fill in lips with lip liner
Apply and blend lip color into lipline using a lip brush
BLUSH
Apply blush to the contour of the cheek with a contour brush
Blend powder over edges of blush with a powder puff or brush.

BASIC EVENING MAKEUP
Wash and Sanitize Hands
Drape client and position the headband or hairnet to keep hair off
of face. Using cotton and eye makeup remover or cleansing lotion,
perform downward and inward strokes to remove makeup, natural
oils or debris. Remove lip color with tissue , beginning from the outer
corner to centre on both sides of lips
PREPARE SKIN
Apply lightweight cleanser using a dampened cotton or gauze pad.
REMOVE CLEANSER.
Apply toner using a cotton pad

Apply moisturizer to prepare the skin for base using a cotton swab
Apply eye crème using a cotton swab around the delicate eye area
to give skin a smoother texture
Assess face shape an skin tone ,eyebrow shape, eye shape and lip
shape
GROOM EYEBROWS
Brush brows up and determine natural growth direction
Tweeze stray hairs to achieve the final shape
FOUNDATION AND CONCEALER
Select the appropriate base color by applying stripes of base to the

side of the face. The color that disappears into the skin after blending
is correct choice

Apply and blend base starting at middle of face. With a damp or
dry sponge use a dabbing and stippling motion until all products is
evenly dispersed all over the face.
Apply concealer as needed. Use a camouflage brush beginning at

the outside edges of the eyes, sides of nose and corners of mouth.
Blend with sponge so that concealer edges disappear.
POWDER
Using a powder puff folded in half, apply loose powder on face to set
the base.
Use a large powder fluff brush to blend away excess powder.
EYEBROW COLOR
Select and apply eyebrow color. Blend eyebrow color. Use an eyebrow
pencil to strengthen and elongate eyebrows.
Use small, short strokes and focus on the outer 2/3 of the eyebrow to
create more defined or stylized look.

EYE SHADOW
Apply highlighter. Apply a bright, slightly luminized eye shadow onto

eyelid with a fluff brush to create more light reflection for the evening
lighting. Blend eye shadow.
Apply contour color. Sweep a darker color across the crease of the
eye socket using a fluff brush. Begin from the bridge of the nose and
work towards the outer edge of the eye to create more depth.
EYELINER & MASCARA
If application is from scratch, curl eyelashes, otherwise apply black

pencil eyeliner directly along the eyelid , at the base of the upper
lashes, to increase intensity.
Blend eyeliner with a detail angled brush. Add black liquid eyeliner to
increase intensity of the pencil eyeliner.
Apply a few more coats of mascara for more density.
Consider applying artificial strip or individual lashes.
LIP COLOR
Apply a deeper lip liner to the lips, and fill in lips with lip liner. Apply
and blend lip color by brushing a high shine lip gloss onto the lips to
add texture, increase drama and create illusion of fuller lips
Using the same color as used for daytime, apply blush. Then blend a
highlighter crème to the cheekbone directly above the blush line with
fingertips to create more light reflection and intensity for evening
lighting. Blend powder over edges of blush.

VARIATION OF SMOKEY EYES FOR EVENING LOOK
The Gradient Effect: This is probably the easiest and most popular smokey eye. The look basically
starts with one color and goes from light to dark, from the inside corner of the eye out. There’s a
really gorgeous gradient effect that happens with this type of eye makeup, and it just looks chic and
amazing.
Dark on the bottom, light on top: There are really only two types of Smokey Eyes. One that goes from
light on the inside to dark on the outside (the gradient effect) and one that is dark on the lid and
blends upward to nothing.
Light on the lid, Smokey in the Crease: This is much more blended and smokey. You see this look with
a lot of matte colors. It is the most popular for traditional looks as well where the outer corner is
contoured with a darker color preferably brown or black.
STRIKING CONTOUR EYES

The steps for striking contour eyes include the following. –
»» Apply the base color from the lashes to the brow with a shadow brush or applicator.
»» Apply medium tone on the lid, blending from lash line to crease with the shadow brush or
applicator.
»» Apply medium to deep color in the crease, blending up toward the eyebrow, but ending below
it.
»» Apply highlight shadow under the brow bone with the shadow brush or applicator.
»» Apply eyeliner on the upper lash line from the outside corner in, tapering as you reach the
inner corner. Blend with the small brush or applicator.
»» Apply shadow in the same color as the liner, directly over the liner. This will give longevity and
intensity to the liner. Repeat on the bottom lash line, if desired.
»» Apply mascara with a disposable wand.

INTRODUCTION TO CORRECTIONS
The primary goal of make-up is to accent a person’s best features while minimizing a person’s
unflattering features or flaws. The most important part is consultation as assessing client’s features
and explaining the corrections needed. The consultation should be done with tact and compassion
highlighting the best features first and then communicating the corrections needed.
BASICS OF CORRECTIVE MAKEUP

There are a few basic rules to remember when applying corrective make-up. First identify the problem
areas or flaws that need to be addressed. This will help to determine which colour correction tools
to use.
»» Colour correction (Concealing) - Match the skin condition or problem against the colour
corrector choices you have to determine which would be the appropriate colour corrector to
choose.
»» Face shape correction - The first rule is to remember that highlighting an area emphasizes a
feature. Shadowing an area minimizes it. Highlighting uses colors that are a shade or more
light than a person’s natural skin tone, while shadowing uses darker shades.The second rule
is that the ideal face should be oval shaped, approximately three-fourths wide as it is long.
»» Feature correction (Eye, Nose and Lips)
COLOR CORRECTION (CONCEALING)
This is already covered in the concealing and Foundation chapter.
FAC E S H A P E CO R R E C T I O N
Face shape is always the first consideration. We have already studied face shapes in the Facial
anatomy chapter. So we are aware of the basic face shapes likeOval, round, Squared, Heart-shaped
(wide forehead, narrow jaw), Diamond-shaped (wide cheekbones) and Oblong (a long and narrow
face).
The goal is to make the face as oval and as proportionate as possible. Corrective make-up takes the
face shapes into consideration and uses highlighting and shadowing to add width where it is needed,
or to conceal excess width. This is already covered in the Highlighting and Contouring chapter
This chapter throws light on the feature corrections likeEyebrows, Eyes, Nose and lips.

F E AT U R E C O R R E C T I O N S - E Y E B R O W S
Reshaping and defining eyebrows can be an art unto itself. Well-groomed eyebrows are pan of a
complete and effective makeup application.
»» The ideal eyebrow shape can be measured by using three lines.
»» The first line is vertical, measuring from the inner corner of the eye upward. This is where the
eyebrow should begin.
»» The second line is drawn at an angle from the outer corner of the nose to the outer corner of
the eye. This is where the eyebrow should end.
»» The third line is vertical, from the outer circle of the iris of the eye upward. The client should be
looking straight ahead as you determine this line. This is where the highest part of the arch
would ideally be. Of course, not everyone’s eyebrows fit exactly within these measurements,
so use them only as guidelines.
When the arch is too high, remove the superfluous hair from the top of the brow and fill in the lower
part with eyebrow pencil or shadow. Build up the shape by layering color lightly until the desired
effect is achieved.
ADJUSTMENTS TO EYEBROW SHAPE CAN ALSO BE USED TO ENHANCE OTHER FACIAL

FEATURES.
»» Low forehead. A low arch gives more height to a very low forehead.
»» Wide-set eyes. The eyes can be made to appear closer together by extending the eyebrow
line closer together past the inside corners of the eyes. However care must be taken to avoid
giving the client a frowning look.
»» Close-set eyes. To make the eyes appear farther apart, widen the distance between the
eyebrows and slightly extend them outward.
»» Round face. Arch the brows high to make the face appear narrower.
»» Long face. Making the eyebrows almost Straight can create the illusion of a shorter face.
»» Do not extend the eyebrow lines farther than the outside corners of the eyes.
EYEBROW SHAPES: IDEAL EYEBROW SHAPE:

Straight :
Straight brows have no curves and are very soft in shape. Straight
brows tend to make eyes look smaller.
Curved :
An extreme curve to the brow looks unnatural and can give the eyes
a vacant or empty expression.
Arched :
Very fine, thin, angled lines above the natural brow bone give the
face a surprised look.
Asian :
Brows tend to be straight or slightly curved with hair growing in a
downward direction. When brow hair grows in a downward direction,
eyelashes also tend to grow downward.
FEATURE CORRECTIONS – NOSE

»» For a protruding nose, apply darker foundation on the nose and lighter foundation on the
creeks and on the sides of the nose itself
»» For a wide nose, the darker color should be applied on the sides and the lighter foundation
should be applied in a long, thin vertical line on the front of the nose

FEATURE CORRECTIONS – EYES - FOR THE EYES CORRECTION THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE
EYES SHOULD EQUAL THE WIDTH OF ONE EYE.
»» Deep-set eyes: These require very little contouring, as they are more recessed. Light and
bright shadows help bring the recessed area forward. Eyeliners that are rich in colour also
add definition.
»» Drooping eyes: These can be lifted by applying darker shadows and eyeliners that move in
an upward motion away from the outer edges of the eyes. Eyeliner on the top and bottom
should connect to lift drooping outer edges. Balancing the inner corners of the eyes with a
deep shadow is effective as well.
»» Close-set eyes: The goal is to create the illusion of space between the eyes. This can be done
by applying shadow on the upper outer edges and using light powder or foundation on the
bridge of the nose. Eyeliners come in handy here. Do not go all the way across the eyelids
with eyeliner. Instead, apply eyeliner from the outer corner halfway to the center. Extending
the outer edges of the eyebrows is also helpful.
»» Almond eyes: Naturally a classic eye shape, almond-shaped eyes can be enhanced by
defining the natural shape with a smudgy eyeliner application over the entire upper and
lower lids. Applying a neutral shadow on the lids into the natural crease adds structure that
enhances the almond shape.
»» Wide-set eyes: They can appear to be deeper and closer together by concentrating and
blending shadows and eyeliners near the inner corner of the eyes, then softly blending toward
the bridge of the nose. This gives the illusion of pulling the eyes closer to the center of the face
»» Small eyes: They benefit from brighter colours and soft shading of the upper and lower lids,
which helps define the eyes without closing them off. Contouring above the natural eyelid
crease to leave the eyelid free of shading creates an open spacious feeling.
»» Bulging eyes: They benefit from contouring the protruding lid. Lower lids and the tops of
eyelids can lined with very deep eyeliner of the same colour, and then connected at the inner
corners. Shadow can then be “graded” from dark at the lids to light as your approach the
brow bone. Shadows can be blended in horizontal fashion to achieve a flattened appearance.
»» Hooded eyes: They can be enhanced by causing the fleshy areas of the upper lids to recede
by using a medium shading colour in the inner eye area. This colour should be blended up
into the inner portion of the eyebrows. To balance and add contour to the outer portion of
the eyes, a deep contouring shadow can “push back” the outer edges and the upper portion
of the hooded eyebrow skin. Only the outer edges of the upper and lower lids should be lines.
Three shades of eye shadow should be applied. A dark shade should go where width needs to be
decreased, a lighter shade where width is desired, and a very light shade used to highlight.
FEATURE CORRECTIONS- LIPS:

Lips are usually proportioned so that the curves or peaks of me upper lip fall directly in line with the
nostrils. In some cases, one side of the lips may differ from the other. Lips can be very full, very thin,
or uneven. Various lip colors can be used to create the illusion of better proportions.

THIN LOWER LIP
Line the lower lip to make it appear fuller. Fill in with lip color to create balance between the
lower and upper lips.
THIN UPPER LIP
Use a lip lining pencil to outline the upper lip, then fill in with lip Colour to balance with the
lower lip.
THIN UPPER AND LOWER LIPS
Use a lip lining pencil to outline the upper and lower lips slightly fuller, but do not try to draw
far over the natural lip line. Fill in with lip color.
CUPID BOW OR POINTED UPPER LIP
To soften the peaks of the upper lip, use a medium lip lining pencil to draw a softer curve,
Extend the line to the desired shape for the lower lip. Fill in with a soft lip color.

LARGE FULL LIPS
Draw a thin line just inside the natura,1 lip line with a lining pencil. Use soft, flat lipstick colors
that will attract less attention than frosty or glossy lip colors.
UNEVEN LIPS
Outline the upper and lower lips with a soft color to create the illiusion of matching proportions.
STRAIGHT UPPER LIP
Use a lip lining pencil to create a slight dip in the center of the upper lip, directly beneath the
nostrils. Fill in both lips with a flattering color.
FINE LINES AROUND THE LIPS
Outline the lips with a non creamy lip lining pencil, then fill in with a product formulated to
keep lip color from running into fine lines.

FOR THE LIPS:
»» Thin Lower Lip: Apply less color to the top lip, and more color to the lower lip. Reverse that if
you have a thin upper lip.
»» Narrow Lips: Use the color to slightly extend the length.
»» Uneven Lips: Compensate on either side of the lip shape by creating an asymmetrical line on
the side you choose to match.
»» Downturned Lips: Toward the outer corners of the lips, create a line that extends just above
the natural fall of the lips.
»» Small Lips: Enlarge the appearance by outlining the lips just past the outer edge of the
natural lipline.
»» Full Lips: Reduce the fullness by lining the upper and lower lips inside the natural lipline.
»» Full Top Lips: Balance the heaviness of the top lip with the lower lip by lining the upper lip
slightly inside the natural shape.
»» Full Bottom Lips: Balance the lips by extending beyond the natural upper lipline, then drawing
a lipline that is within the natural lower lipline. This creates symmetry and balance.
»» Use a lip liner to first draw in the desired shape of the lips, and then go back and fill them in
with color.
»» Put lipstick on a small make-up brush and apply it, rather than to use a stick because the
brush gives you greater accuracy. A brush allows you to get into corners better
THE THUMB RULE OF ANY CORRECTIVE MAKE-UP IS DARKER COLORS ARE USED MAKE FLAWS
“RECEDE”, WHILE LIGHTER COLORS SEEM TO MAKE FEATURES “ADVANCE”.

MAKEUP CONSULTATION
The first step in the makeup process, as with all services that take place
in the salon, is the client consultation. A makeup service should always
begin with a warm introduction to your client. Visually assess the client to
understand her personal style. This will give you cues as you continue your
consultation.
Ask the client questions that will elicit her preferences and concerns. Have
the client fill out a questionnaire to get insight into her makeup needs
CONFIDENTIAL MAKEUP QUESTIONNAIRE
NAME
ADDRESS
PHONE EMAIL ID
D.O.B. OCCUPATION
REFFERED BY FRIEND [ ] MAILER [ ] WALKBY [ ] YELLOW PAGES [ ]
HAVE YOU EVER HAD A PROFESSIONAL MAKEOVER? YES [ ] NO [ ]
IF YES. WHAT DID YOU LIKE (DISLIKE) ABOUT THE SESSION?
IF NO, HOW DID YOU LEARN TO APPLY MAKEUP?
WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR GOALS TODAY?
WHAT SPECIAL AREAS OF CONCERN DO YOU HAVE?
DO YOU WEAR CONTACT LENSES? YES [ ] NO [ ]
IF YES, ARE THEY HARD [ ] SOFT [ ]
DO YOU TAKE ANY MEDICATIONS THAT CAUSE YOUR EYES TO BE DRY OR ITCH? YES [ ] NO [ ]
IF YES, WHAT?
ARE YOU CURRENTLY TAKING ACCUTANE OR HAVE YOU TAKEN IT IN THE PAST? YES [ ] NO [ ]
YES, DESCRIBE THE COURSE OF TREATMENT AND HOW LONG?
DO YOU HAVE ANY HEALTH CONDITION THAT MAY CAUSE SENSITIVITY IN YOUR SKIN OR
YES [ ] NO [ ]
EYE AREA?
IF YES, WHAT ?
DO YOU HAVE ANY ALLERGIES? PLEASE INDICATE :
DO YOU HAVE ANY ALLERGIES TO SKIN CARE PRODUCTS? YES [ ] NO [ ]
IF YES, WHAT?
DO YOU SMOKE? YES [ ] NO [ ]
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE COLORS:
DESCRIBE AN IDEAL LOOK FOR YOUR MAKEUP :
I understand that the services offered are for educational purposes only. I fully acknowledge that I do not have any
known allergies to makeup products. I authorize the makeup artist to apply products to my face. He/she is free to discuss
appropriate information to help me become well-informed concerning makeup application and makeup purchases.
Client’s Signature: _______________________________

Date:_____________________

G O A L O F C O N S U LTAT I O N
The goal of consultation is to determine the exact nature of your clients needs. Regardless of the
purpose for the makeup service, your primary goal while applying makeup is to enhance an improve
your clients appearance.
Following are the five Phases of Service
PHASE ONE : GREETING

HOW WHY
Welcome the client : introduce yourself with Break the ice; learn the clients name; learn
a pleasant voice an a firm handshake; make cues about personality ; building rapport
direct eye contact with the client
PHASE TWO : ASK, ANALYZE, ASSESS

HOW WHY
Escort the client to the seating area and

Begin a record for each client ; establish
ask him or her to complete the Client
key contact information so that you can
Consultation Form; then in a private
easily reach your client; learn about your
consultation area, perform a more thorough
clients skin condition , concerns and any
consultation; ask about the purpose for the
contraindications for treatment; know the
makeup application; analyze the clients
purpose for the makeup products and how
skin tone; skin type, eye color an hair color;
they are used.
determine your recommendations.
PHASE THREE : AGREEMENT

HOW WHY
Tell your clients the results of the skin

evaluation ; explain the recommended face Educate your clients in regards to the
design and color selections; explain in detail skin needs and how various products and
the methods , implements and products to services can help; reassure your client that
use; gain feedback and approval from the he or she is in the hands of a professional
client

PHASE FOUR : DELIVERY
HOW WHY
Ensure clients comfort during service;

explain steps & actions that are taking place
Satisfy the clients needs
; commit to delivering the highest quality of
service
PHASE FIVE : COMPLETION

HOW WHY
Gain feedback ; confirm that he or she is Ensure that client is satisfied and
satisfied with the end result ; discuss home understands how important home care
care regimen; suggest purchase of products; regimen is; increase retail sales; encourage
schedule next appointment ; thank the client; referrals for other clients ; ensure that client
record the products you used and product had no adverse reactions to the products
you recommended for home use used in the makeup application

FACE CHART
Name: _______________________________
Date:_____________________
SKIN CARE :
Makeup remover Cleanser

Freshener Moisturizer
MAKEUP :
Foundation [ ] Liquid [ ] Wet [ ] Dry Color

Concealer Powder
Brow pencil Eye shadows
Orbital area Crease
Lid Other
Eyeliner pencil Lip pencil
Mascara Lipstick
Special Instructions
Next Appointment : _______ Day ________ Month

- NOTES -

- NOTES -

- NOTES -

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FOUNDATION COURSE IN MAKE-UP ARTISTRY

FUNDAMENTAL OF MAKE-UP & APPLICATION IN PRACTICE

TOPICS PAGE NO.

Personal Care & Grooming 13

Hygeine & Makeup Sanity 21

Makeup Essentials - Products & Tools 28

Facial Anatomy & Face shapes 50

Flawless Base Techniques 63

Highlighting and Contouring 73

Introduction to Corrections 101

2 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

Most notable, though, was the ancient Egyptians’

From the copper and lead ore that the ancient

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 3

4 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

The cosmetic routine at this time involved a simple powdered

Makeup artists of popular actresses dramatically influenced

The new, accessible approach to makeup hit a stumbling block

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 5

6 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

In 1950, the first long-lasting lipstick was introduced to consumers.

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 7

False lashes were incredibly popular – the accessory of

LIPS AND LIPSTICK

8 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

Long fake lashes

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 9

10 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

With the major popularity of beautiful thin models like

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 11

If there is one product that defined a generation during

12 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

Always have Functional & aesthetically pleasing attire

SMELL GOOD – FIGHT BODY ODOR

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 13

USE DEODORANTS / ANTI-PERSPIRANTS:

SOME TIPS FOR GOOD ORAL HYGIENE:

14 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

SOME TIPS TO KEEP YOUR HANDS GERM FREE:

»» During a bath/shower give your feet agood scrub

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 15

16 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 17

»» A mild soap will do the job adequately.

18 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

STEPS OF SKIN CARE

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 19

20 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

Hygiene is another term meaning “cleanliness.”

A healthy environment is a powerful way to

Makeup experts must maintain strict infection

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 21

There are three main levels of decontamination: sterilization,

Sanitation is the lowest level of infection control. This first level of

Hand washing & Using a Sanitizer - One of the most important

22 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 23

»» Wash implements in hot soapy water.

24 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

IF HYGIENE IS NOT MAINTAINED

IF TOOLS ARE NOT CLEANSED

THUMB RULE- MAKEUP

Adhering to certain Thumb rules provides a guideline while working

Washing your hands before makeup applications and between