Step 2

CENTER
Developing the front pant sloper FRONT
WAIST
• To find the waist measurement, you need to work back from

PLEAT
B C
7 A 10
the wider front hip measurement. From (7) measure across WAISTLINE 1

31⁄2in toward the side seam; make a mark and label it (A). 31⁄2" 33⁄4"

15⁄8"
7
From (A) square down to the hemline and label it grainline.

CROTCH CURVE
This will also become one side of the pleat.
• From (A) continue to measure across 15⁄8in for the pleat;
make a mark and label it (B). The pleat width can be adjusted 5 HIP LEVEL
4
according to the fit required. FRONT
CROTCH
• From (B) measure across the remainder of the front hip POINT

"
⁄16
13
measurement minus 5⁄8in (43⁄8in – 5⁄8in = 33⁄4in) and label it FRONT CROTCH LEVEL
2
8
(C). Shape down to (4). This is the outseam. 6 D
FRONT 8
• To shape the crotch, measure out 13⁄16in from (6) at a
12
11
45-degree angle and make a mark. Draw a curved line from
(5) to (8) passing through this point.
• Make a mark where the grainline passes through the crotch

GRAINLINE
level and label it (D), and another where the grainline meets
the hemline and label it (E).
• To find the knee level, divide the measurement from (D)

OUTSEAM
to (E) along the grainline (which is also the inside leg
measurement) in half; make a mark and then measure up INSEAM F KNEE LEVEL
31⁄8in; make a mark and label it (F); square across 43⁄8in 43⁄8" 43⁄4"

31⁄8"
toward the inside leg and 43⁄4in toward the outside leg or
side seam. This is the knee level. 1
⁄2 INSIDE
LEG
• To create the hem width, from (E) square across 43⁄8in
toward the inside leg and make a mark and 43⁄8in toward the
outseam and make a mark.
• Draw the inseam and the outseam as gentle curves from
these points back to (8) and (4) respectively, passing through
the points you marked at each end of the knee level.

HEMLINE
9 3
43⁄8" E 43⁄8"
9

46 Chapter TWO: the patternmaking process