Basic PANT SLOPER

The method introduced here is a guide to developing the basic
men’s pant sloper with a 3⁄4in back waist dart for shape above
the buttocks and a 15⁄8in front pleat for ease of movement.
The silhouette is straight with no annotation or style lines
added. All the measurements given are for a sample size
32in (81cm) waist, which accompanies a size 38in (96.5cm)
chest. This sloper will serve as a starting point for all the pant
drafts in this book, or for your own designs. You can also use
measurements from the size charts on pages 32–33 to make
the sloper in a different size, or use your own measurements
taken from your fit model or male dress form.
The modern man has diligently followed fashion when it comes
to how he wears his pants and jeans. From high-waisted to low-
riding, the waistline seems to be in a state of cultural flux. The
natural waist in most men is the smallest measurement around
the circumference of the abdomen or stomach. Generally most
pants are designed to sit between this and the hip—the most
comfortable point for movement, with the waistband line being
dropped 2in below the natural waist on average, depending on
the design.

Measurements used for this size 32in (81cm) pant sloper

Waist circumference = 32in + 13⁄16in ease = 333⁄16in
Total hip circumference = 373⁄4in + 4in ease (1in ease on each
of the four panels) = 413⁄4in
Front hip measurement = 187⁄8in
Back hip measurement = 227⁄8in
Crotch depth = 101⁄4in
Outside leg measurement = 421⁄8in
Inside leg measurement = 32in

7 1
WAISTLINE

Step 1
CENTER FRONT

63⁄4"
Developing the basic pant sloper frame
101⁄4"

101⁄4"
• Cut a large piece of drafting paper slightly longer than
5 HIP LEVEL 4
the length of your pant design or the leg length of
your fit model. 9 ⁄2"
1

• Using a ruler, draw a vertical line down the right-hand 8

6 CROTCH LEVEL 2

side of the paper; make a mark at the top and label it (1).
91⁄2"
2"

This is the outside leg or outseam. Square across to the left.

This is the waistline.
• From (1) measure down 101⁄4in; make a mark and label it (2).
This is the crotch depth.
• From (2) measure down 32in; make a mark and label it (3).
This is the length of the inside leg. Square across to the left.
This is the hemline.
INSEAM

• From (1) measure down 63⁄4in; make a mark and label it (4).
• From (4) square across to the left one-quarter of the hip
32"

circumference minus 1in to find the front hip measurement

(101⁄2in – 1in = 91⁄2in); make a mark and label it (5). This is the
hip level.
• From (2) square across to the left one-quarter of the hip
circumference minus 1in (101⁄2in – 1in = 91⁄2in); make a mark
and label it (6). This is the crotch level.
• From (6) measure up 101⁄4in; make a mark and label it (7).
This line is the center front.
• From (6) square across to the left one-quarter of the
measurement from (4) to (5) minus 3⁄8in (23⁄8in – 3⁄8in = 2in);
make a mark and label it (8).
• From (8) measure down 32in to intersect with the hemline; HEMLINE
9 3
make a mark and label it (9). This is the inseam.

Basic pant SLOPER 45