How To Modify A XYZ Da Vinci 3D Printer To Work Wi

instructables
How to Modify a XYZ Da Vinci 3D Printer to Work With Replaceable Nozzles
by Milen
A friend of mine has a XYZ Printing da Vinci 1.1 Plus 3D Printer. Some times also I cam use it for some my personal
purposes. As whole, the printer is not bad. It has massive and stable metal construction. It is closed. Its price is not so high
and the printing quality is not bad. In comparison with the other printers from the same price class, which are mainly
based on arduino controllers, this has an Android board. Despite all advantages, it has also some problems. Its bad is
covered by thick plastic plate, which I think is not heating homogeneous. It requires also before each printing to be
covered by glue. And the most tedious part - after each printing the glue must be cleaned up......
How to Modify a XYZ Da Vinci 3D Printer to Work With Replaceable Nozzles: Page 1
Step 1: Other Problems and Solutions
The XYR Printing Da Vinci printer uses special lament cassettes. They have a lament counter chip, where the current
length of the lament is memorized. It is a serial EEPROM chip. The main deal here is: if the counter approaches zero
length the printing software starts to show warnings and nally blocks the printing. And this happens even if in the
cassette remains a long (sometimes even 50 meters) piece of lament. You have to replace the cassette and to buy a new,
with no doubt from XYZ Printing, despite that you can nd in times cheaper from another supplier.
The solution of this problem is simple - the chip can be reset and the length value can be changed. You can nd in the
internet descriptions of such resetter devices. Our is based on arduino. It requires also 3 spring pins, small protoboard
and 3 wires. I will not go deep inside - such DIY devices are widely described in the internet.
Even resetting the chip, it is not always convenient to use the original cassette. It is too small to put inside it a standard 1
kg lament reel. The solution of this problem is shown on the picture. Inside the printer is installed an empty cassette
with reseted chip, and the lament spool is placed outside the printer on some holder (in our case a PVC tube).If the
lament is PLA - there should be not any problem with such installation. If the lament is ABS type - may be better
solution could be to use hermetic lament storing box. You can nd such projects also in the Instructables site.
Step 2: The Biggest Problem
It is that, this printer is done in the way that its parts are fully incompatible with the parts form the other 3D printer
available on the market. After half of year intensive use the printer nozzle was wore out. We tried to nd in the producers
site the needed repair part. We thought that we could nd a replacement brass hot-end and everything should be OK.
For our total disappointment we have found that only hot-ends are not available for sell. Us was o ered the whole
printing assembling containing hot-end, cooler, fan, some small electronic board and some small parts for the gorgeous
price of 99 EUR, what was total blackmail. Having in mind that we print often and sometimes we use metal lament,
what means the nozzle wears out for few months - giving each time this money was no go.
So..we decided to modify the printer to be able o work with standard nozzles available on the market for the price of few
bucks for a dozen
Step 3: Mechanical Works...
We ordered MK8 extruder hot end kit including also the heating element and thermoresitor. We decided to use the old
heating element. We extracted also the old thermoresistor from the hot end. Both thermoristors (the new one and the
old one) had di erent size. We were afraid that their parameter would di er and decided to use the original one.
Step 4: More Works
If you noticed the old heating element has a pin which is used to sense the bed tilt. We had to add such also to our
heating element. I drilled a 2.5 mm hole in the aluminium block. After that using a threat cutter we did a M3 threat in the
block. Take my advice - do not use cheap threat cutters - they are done from metal which is not suitable for this purpose. I
broke one, which part remained inside the hole and I had to start the whole procedure from scratch. As sensing pin we
used a M3 screw with the proper length. I wrapped the screw with scotch tape, put in the drill bit holder and with the use
of pile shaped it as shown on the picture. The length of the sensing pin must be parts of millimetre less than the length
of the nozzle.Note the conic cut for the head of the screw.
Step 5: ......
We ordered a 4 cm throat, an aluminium radiator and a brass M6 insert-able nuts which have 8mm external diameter
(that is the diameter of the wider xing part of the original one). I screwed a M6 screw in the bras nut and with hammer I
inserted inside the aluminium cooler block of the original hearing assembling. (it is easy to dissemble the block, to take
away only the aluminium cooler, to insert the brass nut and to assemble the while block again). We put the aluminium
cylindrical radiator between the hot end and the whole assembling. After that I mount thermoresistor xing it with
wrapped with silicon sheet. That was not good idea. It broke and we decided to use the new one, which could be
inserted in the small brass tube coming with the purchased kit. After that we have mounted the whole assembling. We
have switched the printer on and starting the heating. It was going extremely slow. It was not able to reach the needed
temperature of 210 deg C. The reason was the higher than needed cooling produced by the cylindrical radiator. We took
out back the assembling, screwed out the radiator and used the 3cm coming with the heating hot end kit.
Step 6: The Result...
After loading again the lament we started the printer again. It started to heat faster than the previous implementation
and reached the desired temperature. The video shows the work of the modi ed printer.
UPDATE : IF THE PRINTER IS NOT ABLE TO WARM UP ENOUGH, PLEASE REMOVE THE ALUMINIUM COOLER BLOCK.
https://youtu.be/MKNkYCqOD_s
I just did this with my da vinci 1.0a but cant get it to heat up all the way any idea why this may be
happening?
Hi. If you put cooler between the hot end and the cold part, you have to remove it.
Hello ! Thank you for the tutorial :)

Do you have recommandation and parts on how do the same electrical connectors on the heater
and temp sensor?
I cut and soldered cables. I used also heat shrinking tubes to cover the soldering points.
Thank you for your answer :)

I found that the connectors for the temp sensor are M2B connector of the type ph2.0
But I still don't ﬁnd reference for the heater :(
Hi,
I'm owner of Davinci also. I'm not use it very much, so head is still pretty good and was only
clogged one time.
Great idea except one thing. As I know about 3D printers - there must be as much as possible
thermal insulation between hot end and cold part. In your modiﬁcation radiator connects them
together. So hot end will heat up longer, will cool down faster and cold part will be hotter than
could be. I think better would be to use one thin nut instead of radiator 5-10 mm above hot block.
BTW when cutting threads in aluminum - absolutely necessary to use cutting oil, or any other oil.
Without oil even the most expensive thread cutter can broke.

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How to Modify a XYZ Da Vinci 3D Printer to Work With Replaceable Nozzles

Hello ! Thank you for the tutorial :)

Thank you for your answer :)

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