HOW TO USE

VIKISEWS
PATTERNS
Instructions for women’s patterns
 IMPORTANT!

The contents of this pattern are copyright protected and belong exclusively
to VikiSews. You may use VikiSews patterns for personal use. It is prohibited
to share VikiSews patterns and instructions with third parties, as well as to
publish patterns and instructions online for public access. You may use VikiSews
patterns for commercial use, to sew custom-made garments and/or create
garment collections, on the condition that the patterns are solely used in a
manufacturing setting and are not further shared with individuals.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Frequently asked questions.....................................................................................................……………..3
Part 1. How to choose your size and height category ……….......................................................….4
1.1. How to take measurements …………....................................................................................................4
1.2. How to choose the height category ………......................................................................................…5
1.3. How to choose the size. Standard measurements charts.………...............................................….6
1.4. What is ease? ...........................................................................................................................……………9
Part 2. Printing and assembling the pattern ……………….................................................................. 10
2.1. How to print a pattern on a printer………..........................................................................................10
2.2. How to print a pattern on a large-format plotter ....................................................................... 11
2.3. How to assemble a pattern in A4/Letter format…….................................................................... 11
2.4. Information and markings on the patterns … .............................................................................. 12
Part 3. How to adjust patterns for bottom garments to suit various figures…..........................13
3.1. Adjusting skirts and pants patterns for a narrow waist.................................................................13
3.2. Adjusting skirts and pants patterns for a larger than standard waist…...................................15
3.3. Adjusting bottoms patterns for a protruding tummy….................................................................16
3.4. How to lengthen/shorten a bottom garment........................………................................................17
Part 4. How to adjust patterns for top garments to suit individual figures…............................18
4.1. Adjusting top patterns according to waist and hip circumferences.……...................................18
4.2. Adjusting top patterns for a large bust size.................................................................................. 20
4.3. Adjusting top patterns for a small bust size...................................................................................22
4.4. Adjusting top patterns for a sway back…........................................................................................24
4.5. How to change the positioning of the bust dart.............................................................................26
4.6. Adjusting set-in sleeves (narrow and wide sleeve).......................................................................28
4.7. Adjusting shoulder slope….................................................................................................................29
4.8. Adjusting shoulder width….................................................................................................................30
4.9. Adjusting armscye depth ...................................................................................................................31
4.10. How to adjust garment length and sleeve length........................................................................32
Part 5. Why is it important to make a muslin?............................................................................33
Part 6. Pretreating the fabric and cutting out .................................................................................. 34
Part 7. How to do a fitting ....................................................................................................................... 36
Part 8. Glossary….........................................................................................................................................38
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Can I still use the pattern if the test square is 4.8cm x 4.8cm? (Page 10)

Help me choose the right size (Pages 4-8)

Do I need to add seam allowances to pattern pieces? (Page 12)

What is wearing ease, do I need to add it to pattern pieces? (Page 9)

What should I do if my height is in category 1, but my back length and front length
measurements fall into height category 2? (Page 6)

I basted my pants for the fitting, but they’re too large and are falling off (Page 13)

I sewed a dress, but the darts aren’t in the right place (Pages 26-27)

I basted my dress muslin, and the sleeves are too tight. How to increase the sleeve width?
(Page 28)

I have limited arm motion in the sleeves. What to do if the armscye is too low (Page 31)

What to do if the armscye digs into the underarm (Page 31)

I sewed a dress, but the shoulder is too narrow (Page 30)

Why does the neckline in my dress not fit closely to the neck? (Page 29)

Why do I have a bubble in the back of my dress? (Page 24)

Why do we cut certain garments on folded fabric, and others on one layer of fabric? (Page 35)

How to shorten pants, lengthen a skirt (Page 17)

How to lengthen a sleeve, shorten a dress (Page 32)

3
PART 1. HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR SIZE
AND HEIGHT CATEGORY
In order to be able to choose the right height category and pattern size, you need to start with
taking your measurements.

1.1 HOW TO TAKE MEASUREMENTS

It’s best if you can get a friend or a family member to help you. It’s not the best idea to take your
own measurements, as this might lead to some discrepancies which will then affect your chosen
size and height, as well as garment fit. You could also go to an alterations shop, they should offer
this service. The first measurement you need to take is height. To measure the height, you’ll need to
remove shoes and stand with your back against a wall. Straighten your back, let your arms hang at
your sides, and straighten your shoulders. Your legs should be straight, the heels against each
other. You should hold your head straight and look straight ahead of you. The heels, the protruding
part of the buttocks, and the shoulder blades should touch the wall. Once in correct position, place
a straight flat object, for example a ruler, over the top of your head and press down on your hair,
since it could add 1-2cm to the height. The ruler should be positioned parallel to the floor and
perpendicular to the wall. Place a mark on the wall at the bottom edge of the ruler. Measure the
distance from the floor to the mark.
The following measurements should be taken in the same undergarments in which you plan
to wear the garment.
Tie a piece of elastic around your waist. The elastic should be on your natural waistline, parallel to
the floor. The measurements are taken on the right side of the body from top to bottom, and the
measuring tape should be taut but without deforming soft tissues of your body.
It's necessary to take the following measurements:
Bust circumference B - the measurement is taken around the most protruding part of the bust,
strictly horizontally around the body, with the measuring tape parallel to the floor.
Waist circumference W - Measure at the elastic tied around your waist.
Hip circumference H - take the measurement around the most protruding part of the buttocks,
the measuring tape should be parallel to the floor. If you have a protruding tummy, then you should
take it into account and take the measurement accounting for the protruding tummy. To do so,
secure a piece of plastic or cardboard along the waist, which reaches the hipline.
The measurements of Height, B, W, and H are the main measurements that will be necessary
in order to choose the size and height category.
You might also need the following additional measurements in order to adjust the pattern to
your individual features.
Back length BL - the distance from waistline to the base of neck on the back, measured parallel to
the spine.
Front length FL - the distance from base of neck to the waistline on the front, measured with the
tape going over the most protruding part of the bust.
Bust width BuW - measured horizontally above the bust, from top of armpit to top of armpit.
Back width BW - measured horizontally across the shoulder blades, between the top of the
armpits.
Shoulder width SW - distance between the base of neck and the end point of the shoulder.
Upper arm circumference UAC - measured with the arm hanging loose, perpendicular to the
shoulder axis in such a way that the top edge of the measuring tape touches the back armpit.
Otherwise the measurement might be taken around the fullest part of the arm. The tape must come
together on the outside of the arm.
Apart from these measurements, it’s necessary to analyze and compare the typical
measurements with the actual ones for the garment length and sleeve length.

IMPORTANT! The information regarding garment length and sleeve length is presented in the design
description on our website, in the instructions booklet, and on the pattern pieces (on the back bodice or
back leg of the garment). 4
 Sleeve length SL - measured from the shoulder end point on the outside of the arm up to the
desired length of sleeve, given a loosely hanging arm, slightly bended in the elbow. If the sleeve is
raglan, grown-on, or shirt style, then the measurement is taken from base of neck up to the desired
length, ie the sleeve length will include the shoulder width.
Garment length GL - measured on the back from the 7th vertebrae down to the desired garment
length. For fitted garments, place the measuring tape right next to the body at the waistline. For
loose garments, the tape is hanging free. If the garment has straps, then the garment length is
measured at the back from waistline down to the desired length. For bottoms garments, the length
is measured at the back or the side from waistline down to the desired length.

BuW SW
FL

B B BL
BW
B UAC

W
W
W SL

H
H
H

GL

1.2 HOW TO CHOOSE THE HEIGHT CATEGORY

Our patterns are presented in four height categories on the website:
Height 1 (154-160)
Height 2 (162-168)
Height 3 (170-176)
Height 4 (178-184)
First compare your height with the categories and choose the appropriate one for you. If your
height falls in between the ranges, for example 161cm, then choose the category 1: 154-160. If
your height is 169cm, it’s better to choose category 3: 170-176; 177cm - category 4: 178-184.
When choosing the height category for bottom garments (skirts and pants), take only your
height in consideration.
When choosing the height category for top garments (coats, dresses, blazers, blouses, etc.)
sometimes it’s best to choose a bigger or smaller height category depending on the individual
proportions of the body (for example for a longer or shorter torso).
5
 In order to verify whether you chose the right height category for top garments, you’ll need to
compare your additional measurements of FL and BL to the standard ones (see chart Standard
Size Measurements). But remember that it only makes sense to do so when you’re absolutely sure
of the exactness of your measurements. Most often mistakes are made specifically when
measuring FL and BL.
Let’s analyze with an example how to compare your FL and BL measurements with the standard
measurements in the height chart.
Given: height 160cm, size 38 (according to B), BL 41cm, FL 42.5cm. Looking at the chart, we see
that for size 38 and height 160cm (height 1), the measurements are BL 40.2cm and FL 41cm.
Comparing the measurements of the standard figure and the real figure, we see that these
additional measurements correspond better to the category of height 2 rather than 1 (for size 38,
height 2, FL is 42cm and BL is 41.2cm). This means that it’s best to choose height 2, the garment
will fit better this way. It’s possible that it might be necessary to shorten the sleeve length or
garment length, but the overall fit will be better.
Note that height category adjustments can only be made in the range of +/- 1 height category (ie
you usually cannot jump from height 1 to height 3, it’s likely in this case that the measurements
were taken incorrectly).
What to do if one of the BL or FL measurements is significantly larger or smaller than the standard
measurement.
Usually the difference between FL and BL measurements is 0.5 to 1.5cm (FL is higher) for sizes
34-44, and 2-3cm for sizes 46-52. It happens that the difference between FL and BL is practically 0
- this is usually typical for smaller sizes with a small bust.
If your difference between FL and BL is higher than 1.5cm for sizes 34-44 and higher than 3cm
for sizes 46-52, this is usually due to specific individual features. This might happen, for example,
with a large bust and a sway back (FL is increased). In this case it’s better to choose the height
category according to your height, and then adjust the pattern for your individual features.
If your BL measurement turns out higher than the FL, it might be that the measurements are
incorrect, or it might be due to a specific feature such as a slouched back. When choosing the
height category in this case, choose according to your height and then adjust the pattern.

1.3 HOW TO CHOOSE THE SIZE

In order for the garment to fit you well, you need to compare you B, W, and H measurements with
the standard measurements in the size chart and choose your size accordingly.

IMPORTANT! Don’t base your size choice on the ready-to-wear garments size that you buy in a shop!
Don’t feel intimidated if your pattern size is bigger than ready-to-wear size, the main thing is that your
sewn garment will have a great fit!

The choice of size for top garments (dress, blazer, coat, etc.) is made according to the Bust
Circumference.
The choice of size for bottom garments (pants, skirt, shorts, etc.) is made according to the
Hip Circumference.
A very common error is to base size choice on the biggest measurement, for example, waist
circumference. This is erroneous and should not be done.

6
 SIZE CHARTS

Height 1
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

BL 39.8 40.0 40.2 40.4 40.6 40.8 41.0 41.2 41.4 41.6
FL 40.0 40.5 41.0 41.5 42.0 42.5 43.0 43.5 44.0 44.5
B 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116
W 60 64 68 72 76 80 84 88 92 96
H 86 90 94 98 102 106 110 114 118 122
UAC 25.1 26.5 27.9 29.3 30.7 32.1 33.5 34.9 36.3 37.7
BuW 31.0 31.8 32.8 33.4 34.2 35 35.8 36.6 37.4 38.2
BW 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42
SW 11.9 12.0 12.1 12.2 12.3 12.4 12.5 12.6 12.7 12.8

Height 2
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

BL 40.8 41.0 41.2 41.4 41.6 41.8 42.0 42.2 42.4 43.6
FL 41.0 41.5 42.0 42.5 43.0 43.5 44.0 44.5 45.0 46.5
B 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116
W 60 64 68 72 76 80 84 88 92 96
H 86 90 94 98 102 106 110 114 118 122
UAC 25.1 26.5 27.9 29.3 30.7 32.1 33.5 34.9 36.3 37.7
BuW 31.4 32.2 33.0 33.8 34.6 35.4 36.2 37.0 37.8 39.0
BW 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42
SW 11.9 12.0 12.1 12.2 12.3 12.4 12.5 12.6 12.7 12.8

Height 3
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

BL 41.8 42.0 42.2 42.4 42.6 42.8 43.0 43.2 43.4 43.6
FL 42.0 42.5 43.0 43.5 44.0 44.5 45.0 45.5 46.0 46.5
B 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116
W 60 64 68 72 76 80 84 88 92 96
H 86 90 94 98 102 106 110 114 118 122
UAC 25.1 26.5 27.9 29.3 30.7 32.1 33.5 34.9 36.3 37.7
BuW 31.8 32.6 33.4 34.2 35.0 35.8 36.6 37.4 38.2 39.0
BW 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42
SW 11.9 12.0 12.1 12.2 12.3 12.4 12.5 12.6 12.7 12.8

7
Height 4
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

BL 42.8 43.0 43.2 43.4 43.6 43.8 44.0 44.2 44.4 44.6
FL 43.0 43.5 44.0 44.5 45.0 45.5 46.0 46.5 47.0 47.5
B 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116
W 60 64 68 72 76 80 84 88 92 96
H 86 90 94 98 102 106 110 114 118 122
UAC 25.1 26.5 27.9 29.3 30.7 32.1 33.5 34.9 36.3 37.7
BuW 32.2 33.0 33.8 34.6 35.4 36.2 37.0 37.8 38.6 39.4
BW 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42
SW 11.9 12.0 12.1 12.2 12.3 12.4 12.5 12.6 12.7 12.8

FOR GARMENTS WITH UNIVERSAL SIZING

XS (32-34) S (36-38) M (40-42) L (44-46) XL (48-50)

Bust circumference, cm 75-80 84-88 92-96 100-104 108-112

Waist circumference, cm 56-60 64-68 72-76 80-84 88-92
Hip circumference, cm 82-86 90-94 98-102 106-110 112-114

It might happen that your bust circumference measurement for top garments or waist
circumference measurement for bottom garments falls in between the standard ranges, which
size should you choose then? In this case you’ll need to analyze which size your measurements are
closest to. For example, for B 83cm, it falls closest to the measurement for size 36 in the chart,
therefore that’s the size you should choose. Likewise, for B between 80.5 and 81.5cm, it falls
closest to size 34. If your bust measurement is exactly +/-2cm from the ranges, then it’s
recommended to go for the larger size for close fitting garments, and for the smaller size for loose
fitting garments with increased ease amounts. We look at ease allowance below.

IMPORTANT! In case you fall into one size according to your B measurement (for example 36) and a
different size according to your W and H measurements (for example 40), then you’ll have to adjust the
pattern at the waist and hip lines. The same situation may arise for bottom garments, where you’ll have
to add or remove at the waistline.

It’s important to know your body and be familiar with any adjustments you might have to make
for any type of garment.
If your measurements differ from the standard by more than 1cm, and the garment is close
fitted, the pattern will have to be adjusted.
You will find out how to make these adjustments in the following sections.

8
1.4 WHAT IS EASE?
We’ve already mentioned that some garments are designed to be close fitting and others loose
fitting. Also, sometimes you have to consider the ease already included in the pattern when
choosing the size. So now we will explain in more depth what ease means.

When drafting garments, ease allowance is added to all the areas of a garment. Usually a general
amount is added, which is the sum of technical or wearing ease (the necessary minimum) to draft
the garment and decorative or design ease, intended to give the desired shape, silhouette, and
volume.

The horizontal ease added at bust line, waistline, and hipline is shown in the chart below. These
amounts allow us to understand what kind of volume and silhouette the garment has.

The chart shows the full ease measurements, in cm.

EASE ALLOWANCE, IN CM, AT BUST, WAIST,

AND HIPS, WOMEN’S GARMENTS
Garment type Very close fit Close fit Medium fit Loose fit

B W H B W H B W H B W H
3-5 1-2 0-1 6-8 4-6 2-3 8-10 6-8 4-6 10-12 More More
Dress than 8 than 6

More More
Blazer 5-7 4-6 2-4 8-10 6-9 3-5 10-14 10-14 6-10 14-16
than 14 than 10

More More
Coat 10-12 6-8 8-10 13-14 8-10 11-12 15-18 12-14 14-16 19-22 than 14 than 16

UPPER ARM EASE, WOMEN’S GARMENTS

Ease measurement for upper arm, cm, for garments

Type of sleeve Dress Blazer Fall, spring,

summer coat

Narrow 3.5-5 5.5-7.5 6-9

(tight fit)
Medium 5-7 7.5-9 9.5-12
(medium fit)
Wide 7-9 and more 9.5-11 and more 12 and more
(loose fit)

Added ease can also be negative (for example in patterns for knit garments).
You can find out the added ease in patterns if you look closely at the instructions

9
PART 2. PRINTING AND ASSEMBLING
THE PATTERN

2.1 HOW TO PRINT A PATTERN ON A PRINTER

1. In order to print the pattern correctly on a home printer, it’s necessary to choose
certain settings, namely:
• scale 100%
• True size (DO NOT check “scale to fit”, “fill entire page”, etc.)
• Page orientation “portrait”
• Paper format A4 or Letter, make sure to select the one corresponding to your paper size

IMPORTANT! Do not open and do not print the pattern in Microsoft Word. To print the pattern,
you need to download it and open with one of the software for pdf files, such as Acrobat Reader.
A document that is simply opened in the browser and not downloaded usually prints with the
wrong scale.

2. Once the correct settings are chosen, you need to print only the first page containing the
5 x 5cm test square. Measure the test square on both sides; if the measurements don’t
correspond to 5 x 5cm, the print settings are incorrect (go back to step 1).
If the test square measures exactly 5 x 5cm, then you can proceed to printing the rest of the
pages.
Ensure the pages are lying straight and without any folds in the printer in order to avoid
skewing the pattern.

IMPORTANT! If your test square came out a different size, for example 4.8 x 4.8cm, then you
shouldn’t print the rest of the pattern and shouldn’t use it! Otherwise the garment will come out
too small (in width and length) and won’t fit you.

10
2.2 HOW TO PRINT ON A LARGE-FORMAT PLOTTER
In addition to receiving the pattern in A4 and Letter formats, you also get a file for large-
format printers, also known as plotters. The pattern size is indicated in the name of the
document. The document width is not more than 900mm, the length varies. Using the plotter
option saves you time, since you don’t have to tape A4 or Letter pages together. When
ordering at a print shop, simply mention the size of the document and ask to set the scale at
100% (or “real size” depending on each plotter’s settings).
The plotter files also include a 5 x 5cm test square, so you can ensure that the printing
settings were correct.

2.3 HOW TO ASSEMBLE A PATTERN IN A4/LETTER FORMAT

1. Once all pages are printed, you have to assemble them, meaning tape them together in a
predetermined order. Each A4/Letter page has a sequential number, indicated on the left side
or bottom edge. You will first need to lay the pages in order, from left to right: A,01; A,02; A,03
etc. Then the next row - B,01; B,02; B,03 etc.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

2. Each printed page has borders on all sides. To make it easier to tape pages together, trim
off the right and bottom edges. Then proceed to taping the rows of pages as precisely as
possible, following the sequence of the page numbers, without any overlaps and gaps at the
borders. Next tape the rows together.

IMPORTANT!
• Do not cut out pattern pieces prior to taping the pages together
• Do not cut out pattern pieces prior to adjusting them if needed (if your measurements
don’t correspond to the standard ones).

11
 2.4 INFORMATION AND MARKINGS ON THE PATTERNS
Each pattern/pattern pieces contain information presented in the form of signs, symbols, writings, and
groupings.

SIGNS AND SYMBOLS

Test square
Serves to verify the scale and the correctness of the printed pattern.
It should be precisely 5*5cm. (See more details in the section about printing).

Page numbers

Grainline direction on all the pattern pieces. The grainline is parallel to the fabric
selvedge. The fabric has the least amount of give along the grainline. It’s
important to respect the grainline when cutting out, so that the main edges
of the garment are stable and don’t stretch during wear.

Explanation on half pieces and indication of where the fabric is on fold fold
(along center lines)

Notches help to properly align pieces together. It’s important to transfer all
the notches onto the fabric when cutting out.

Indication and direction of tucks or pleats

Indication of buttonholes on a pattern piece

Indication of buttons/snaps on a pattern piece

Indication of additional drafting lines. These lines may be used for example
to indicate center front, lapel roll line, placement lines, pocket frames, etc.
Indication of the face side for asymmetrical pieces (more details on this in the FACE
section on cutting out)

Indication of where to cut

Indicates that this piece or part of it has to be interfaced INTERFACING

You will find a few groups of writings on patterns/pattern pieces containing information about the
SPECIFIC pattern and its parts, namely:
Type of garment and its name
Type of pattern piece and its quantity
Size. Each pattern is presented in one size. All the details regarding the measurements for each size are
shown above in the section Size Charts.
Height category. Women’s patterns are offered in four height categories.
Ease allowance - this is the difference between the width of the garment and the corresponding body
measurements. It’s thanks to the ease that garments have different types of fit - close fit, semi-close fit,
loose fit. The pattern pieces and instructions show ease in its full amount. Pattern pieces indicate B (bust
ease), W (waist ease), H (hip ease), etc.
Garment length. For top garments length is measured at the center back, from base of neck to the
desired length. For bottom garments length is measured at the side seam, from waistline down to the
desired length.
Sleeve length is measured from the tip of the shoulder (the estimated end of the shoulder seam), on
the outer edge of the shoulder, to the desired sleeve length with the arm hanging loose.
Pattern pieces already include seam allowances, the details about seam allowances are shown in
the instructions to each pattern. Also, each pattern piece includes inner contours which indicate
seam lines, that’s where the pattern pieces are joined together. The distance between the inner and
outer contours represents the seam allowance.
If the pattern comes with multiple sizes, then the seam allowances aren’t marked on the pattern
12
pieces in order to avoid having too many lines, but they’re still included in the drafting.
PART 3. HOW TO ADJUST PATTERNS FOR BOTTOM GARMENTS
TO FIT PARTICULAR FIGURES

IMPORTANT! When altering the main pattern pieces, don’t forget to also alter the lining pattern pieces and
any other pieces which will be joined with them such as facings.

3.1 ADJUSTING SKIRTS AND PANTS PATTERNS FOR A NARROW WAIST

Let’s look at an example where you chose your bottom garment size based on your H measurement,
but your W measurement is smaller than standard. This means that prior to cutting fabric, you need to
alter your pattern. If you don’t adjust the pattern, then the finished skirt will not have a close fit at the
waistline, the skirt will twist and slide down to the hips, ie it will be too big at the waist.
For example, H = 98cm and W = 66cm. Based on the hip circumference, you chose size 40. The
standard waist measurement for size 40 is 72cm. The difference between the actual and the standard
measurement is 6cm. Since pattern pieces are halved, then 6/2=3. This means that you need to reduce
the standard pattern pieces for size 40 by 3cm.
The excess at the waist is taken into the darts (or princess seams) and the side seams.

Waistband You can absorb the excess into darts the

following way:
• into the back darts, up to 1cm (0.5cm on each
side of the dart)
• Into the side darts, up to 2cm (1cm on each
side of the dart)
You may also take up to 0.5cm excess into the
center back seam if needed, ie 0.25cm on each
back piece at the waistline, going in a smooth line
Back skirt Front skirt
towards the hipline.
When increasing the darts intake, you’ll also
need to lengthen them by about 0.5-1.5cm.
You can’t increase the dart intake by a
significant amount, otherwise you might get a
pulling effect around the dart area in the top of
the garment. Darts with a very large intake are
also very difficult, if not impossible, to press.

IMPORTANT! Adjust the new waist line by joining

the front and back pieces together along the side
seam and closing the darts on both pieces. Using a
French curve, trace a new waist line. Don’t forget to
compare the new waist line to the waistband piece
and adjust the latter if necessary.

13
 If you need to adjust by a larger amount,
which might be necessary for figures with
protruding hips and buttocks, then a second dart
is necessary on the back skirt which might take
up to 3cm in dart intake. This second dart is
located between the main back dart and the side
seam. Its length should be equal to the first dart
Back skirt
or shorter by 1-1.5cm. The side dart in this case
may be increased up to 3cm, and the original
dart shifts towards the center back by about
1-2cm.
If your back darts come out very different, for
example 5cm and 2cm, then you can add them
up and divide in half, thus creating two equivalent
darts.

The waist is adjusted the same way in pants:

Left side Center Right side

seam seam

Back leg Front leg

14
3.2 ADJUSTING SKIRTS AND PANTS PATTERNS
FOR A LARGER THAN STANDARD WAIST

If your waist is larger than the standard measurement, then you will have to adjust the skirt at the
waistline, otherwise the skirt will be too small.
Let’s look at an example. Hip circumference is 98cm, waist circumference is 78cm. The H measurement
falls under size 40. The standard W measurement for size 40 is 72cm, meaning we have a difference of
6cm at the waistline. Since the pattern pieces represent halves, then we divide the difference in half:
6/2=3cm. This means that we need to increase the waistline by 3cm. The adjustment is made by
decreasing the front and back dart intakes, as well as at the side seams.

Waistband
You can decrease the darts in the following
way:
• back darts by 0.25-0.5cm on each side of the
dart
• front darts by 0.25cm on each side of the
dart
• divide the leftover amount between the front
and back side seams
Let’s suppose we decreased the back darts
by 0.5cm on each side, ie the dart intake
Back skirt Front skirt
decreased by 1cm; by 0.25cm on each side of
the front dart, ie the dart intake decreased by
0.5cm. If we spread the balance between the
side seams, we get: 3-1-0.5=1.5cm. Divide 1.5
in half, 1.5/2=0.75cm, this is by how much we
need to enlarge the side seams.
IMPORTANT! Place the front and back pieces
together to ensure that the side seams match.
Redraw the seam allowances of 1cm.

Correct the new waistline by aligning the front and back skirt pieces along the side seams and by
closing the front and back darts. Using a French curve, trace a new waistline. Don’t forget to verify the
new waistline against the waistband, the seamlines’ lengths must match, so you might need to adjust
the waistband piece.
Left side Center Right side
seam seam
The adjustment for a waist larger than
standard in pants is done the same way:

Back leg Front leg

15
3.3 ADJUSTING BOTTOMS PATTERNS FOR A PROTRUDING TUMMY

If you’re aware of this particular
feature of your body, then the
pattern will need some adjustments.
Otherwise the garment will fit poorly,
where the skirt, for example, will
ride up and fit tightly across the
tummy, with diagonal wrinkles going
in all directions, and the front hem
pulled up. This is caused by a
protruding abdomen and the front
skirt pattern needs to be lengthened.
Lengthen the front skirt piece by comparing the
distance from the floor to the back and front waistlines.
Increase the skirt on the top by the difference. Apart
from this, the front skirt would also need extra width
to account for the protruding tummy, and on the
contrary, the back width needs to be slightly decreased.
When trying on the muslin, mark the placement of
the side seam. If it so happens that you get excess
material at the waistline after widening the front skirt,
you’ll need to take it in an additional front dart situated
between the first dart and the side seam.
The side seam also has to be slightly raised.
This type of figure with a protruding abdomen very
often has a sway back at the waistline, which often
creates bunching up of the fabric along the back
waistline. To avoid this, the top of the back skirt needs
to be lowered by 0.5-1cm.

FS BS

Adjust pants for a protruding

tummy in the following way:
Increase the front leg width in the
top.
Mark a horizontal line 10-12cm
below the top edge, then cut along
this line, stopping 0.1-0.2cm short of
the side seam. Shift the top section
upwards by the necessary amount FS
FS
(1-2cm). Secure the adjusted piece
with glue or scotch tape. Trace a new
center front line perpendicular to the
hipline. If this adjustment isn’t enough,
then you can also decrease the pleat
depth. Make sure to redraw the fly
front seam allowance. 16
3.4 HOW TO LENGTHEN/SHORTEN A BOTTOM GARMENT
If your pants are shorter than needed, measure the amount by which you’d like to lengthen them.
Cut the pattern piece along the hemline and insert a strip of paper underneath. Spread both sections
by the desired amount and glue or tape them to the strip of paper.
Redraft the sides and inseams by tracing a straight line from the knee level to the new hemline.

BS FS

Slash and spread Slash and spread

If your skirt is too short for your

liking and you want to lengthen it:

Slash and spread Slash and spread

17
PART 4. HOW TO ADJUST PATTERNS FOR
TOP GARMENTS TO SUIT VARIOUS FIGURES

IMPORTANT! When altering the main pattern pieces, don’t forget to also alter the lining pattern pieces and
any other pieces which will be joined with them such as facings.

4.1 ADJUSTING TOP PATTERNS ACCORDING TO WAIST

AND HIP CIRCUMFERENCES
Sometimes when choosing your size for a top garment you find yourself in a situation where you fall
into one size according to your bust measurement, but in a smaller or bigger size according to the waist
and/or hip measurement. In this case you might wonder whether you need to adjust the pattern and
how to go about it.
For example, B 87cm, W 70cm, H 98cm.
The B measurement corresponds to size 38, but the W and H are larger than the standard (standard
measurements for size 38 are B 88cm, W 68cm, H 94cm).
If you plan on sewing a garment with a loose silhouette (see chart "Ease allowance"), then there’s no
need to adjust the pattern.
For example, the ease on the Sansa dress is 20cm at the bust, 42cm at the waist, 19cm at the hips.
If we look at our example (B 87cm, W 70cm, H 98cm), then it’s evident that there’s no need to adjust
the pattern at the waist and hips.
If we take for example the Frida coat, it has a wearing ease of 19cm at the bust, 40cm at the waist,
and 18cm at the hips. This means that in this case as well there’s no need to adjust the pattern.
Conclusion: for a pattern with a loose silhouette (refer to the "Ease allowance" chart), there is no
need to increase the pattern at the waist and/or hip level.
On the other hand, if we look at the Vivienne dress as an example, we see a different picture. The
ease at the bust is 6.7-7cm, at the waist 7cm, and at the hips 4cm. If we add the standard hip
measurement for size 38 and the ease, we get 94+4=98cm. Next we subtract the actual hip measurement
from this:
98-98=0cm, which means there is no wearing ease left, the dress will be too small at the hipline.
You cannot ignore this point, the pattern has to be adjusted in order to fit properly. Let’s work it out
with our example.
In order to add width at the hipline, we first need to calculate the difference between the actual and
the standard measurements H: 98-94=4cm. Since the pattern piece is half of the circumference, let’s
divide the difference in half: 4/2=2. These 2cm need to be uniformly spread across the front and the
back, so let’s divide it in half once more: 2/2=1cm. Now we need to find the hip notches on the front
and back pieces, and add the difference beyond the pattern line, thus increasing the hip width.
Next let’s verify if we need to add anything at the waistline. Let’s add the standard waist measurement
with the waistline ease 68+7=75cm.
75-70=5cm - this kind of ease corresponds to a close fit. According to the design, the dress should
be looser than this in the waist area. Therefore we suggest adjusting the pattern at the waistline as well:
70-68=2cm - the difference between the standard and the actual measurements. Since the pattern
is halved 2/2=1cm. This 1cm has to be equally spread between the front and the back 1/2=0.5cm. You
now need to find the waist notches on the front and back pattern pieces and add this difference beyond
the pattern lines (this increasing the waist width).
Connect the new dots. Draw a smooth line tapered to the original pattern lines from the waist up. In
the case where the waist and hip measurements are smaller than standard, the adjustment is done the
same way, except that the points are placed towards the center of the pattern pieces. Don’t forget to
make the same adjustments on the front and back lining pieces.
18
 Adjustment of the Vivienne dress for Adjustment of the Vivienne dress for
waist and hips larger than standard waist and hips smaller than standard

Back Front Back Front

Garments with a close fit must be adjusted.

Adjustment of a close fitting sundress for waist and hips larger than standard

Back Front
bodice bodice

Back skirt Front skirt

19
4.2 ADJUSTING TOP PATTERNS FOR A LARGE BUST SIZE

If you have a large bust (larger than

size C), then chances are your FL
measurement is also increased. If you
don’t adjust the pattern to fit your
figure, you’ll be missing length and the
garment will ride up in the front along
Back Back the hem, the side seams would also
shift forward. To avoid this, you need
to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) and
lengthen the front.

It’s recommended to adjust for a maximum of 2cm.

Trace a perpendicular line from the dart point towards the center front. Cut the pattern piece along
the perpendicular line and the top dart leg. Tape a piece of paper to the top front section. Measure
down the difference between your actual FL and the standard FL from the top section and mark points.
Tape the bottom section to the points.
For example, the standard FL measurement for size 36 in height 2 is 41.5cm. The actual measurement
is 43cm. The difference is 43-41.5=1.5cm. Thus, the bottom section of the front must be taped 1.5cm
below the top section. Now connect the dart tip with the bottom dart leg point on the side seam, thus
increasing the dart intake.

Close the dart on the pattern piece and direct

it towards the top or bottom, depending on
how it will be pressed in the finished garment.
Note that you’re matching the dart legs and
not the side seam (it doesn’t match up yet).
Verify the side seam length, it shouldn’t have
changed since the distance by which you
increased got absorbed into the dart.
With the dart closed, mark the new side seam
Front
line using a French curve; try to make the line
as similar as possible to the original. Add the
1cm seam allowances and trim off any excess.
Sew a muslin and verify the positioning of
the dart tip and the dart angle.

20
 If the dart is located somewhere else, not in the side seam, for example if it was transferred into
the neckline, shoulder seam, or pocket line, then you’ll have to first transfer it to the side seam, do
the adjustments, and then return it to the previous position.

For example, the dart here has been transferred into

Front the neckline, underneath the lapel.

To close

Extend the dart tip to the highest point of the bust.

To open Trace the new dart line from the side seam.
Front

To close

Close the dart in the neckline and open it in the side

To open seam. Now you can do the FBA and then perform the
Front same steps to transfer the dart back to its original
location.

21
4.3 ADJUSTING TOP PATTERNS FOR A SMALL BUST SIZE

If the bust is small, smaller than average, and the FL

measurement is smaller than standard, then the front
piece and the bust dart size need to be adjusted. If
the pattern is not adjusted, then the front might come
out too long and might sag, there might be excess
fabric, or emptiness and bagginess in the bust area.
The front length needs to be corrected. To achieve this,
the difference between the actual and the standard FL
measurement is spread and removed from two areas
- at the bust width line and at the line crossing the
dart apex. For example, 1.5/2=0.75cm. Let’s take 0.7cm
and 0.8cm. Let’s remove 0.7cm at the bust width line
and 0.8cm at the line that passes through the bust
apex.

Overlap Overlap

Spread

Front Front Front

Trace the bust line on the front piece (it passes 1cm below the highest point of the side seam)
perpendicular to the center front line. Measure the distance front the highest point of the shoulder
seam to the bust line and divide it in half. Trace a line through this half point parallel to the bust
line - this is the bust width line. Trace a second parallel line at a distance of 0.7cm. Cut the piece
along the top line and place it to match the second line, making sure to align the center front lines
and the grainlines. Secure with scotch tape or glue.
Redraw the armscye in the area where the top and bottom sections connect with the help of a
French curve, trying to approximate the curve as much as possible to the original. Don’t forget about
the seam allowances.
The second line at which we need to cut the piece is traced through the dart apex, perpendicular
to the center front line. Cut the piece along this line as well as along the top dart leg.
On the bottom front section, mark the distance of 0.8cm and place the top section to match the
marked points, matching the center front lines and the grainlines. Secure with scotch tape or glue.

22
 Trace new dart legs by connecting the dart points
Overlap
on the side seam with the dart apex point. Fold
the pattern to match the dart legs and direct the
dart upward (or in the direction indicated in the
Overlap
pattern instructions). Trace a new smooth side
seam line using a French curve, trying to approximate
the original line as much as possible. Redraw the
seam allowances and keep the dart closed for now.
After these adjustments, the armscye depth has
decreased. In order to preserve the original size,
it’s necessary to increase the armscye depth on
the front and back by the approximate difference
of 0.7/2=0.35cm. To do so, measure this distance
Back Front down from the highest point of the side seam on
the front and back, then using a French curve,
trace a new armscye line and redraw the seam
allowances.
Verify the connection point of the front and back
armscye lines by aligning the pieces along the top
of the side seam (5-6cm), and folding away the
back seam allowance by 1cm. Place a French curve
and trace a new smooth armscye line and seam
allowances, eliminating bumps and irregularities.
Trim off excesses on the armscye and side seam.
Once this is done, you can open the dart.
Sleeve On the sleeve, transfer the center notch by half
of the adjustment amount along the bust width
line (0.7/2=0.35cm) towards the front part of the
sleeve. The adjustment done along the dart line
doesn’t need to be accounted for here.
It’s important to verify during the fitting whether
the adjusted armscye depth and the positioning
of the center sleeve notch are correct.

23
4.4 ADJUSTING TOP PATTERNS FOR A SWAY BACK
This type of figure typically has an inverted top of the torso, leaning towards the back. Usually
these figures have a difference between FL and BL by about 1-2cm larger than the typical difference
between FL and BL in the same size.
If you have a sway back, the following are the possible deviations from the standard:
1st variation: The BL measurement
is significantly smaller than
standard measurement in the chosen
height category. FL measurement is
equal to the standard.
IMPORTANT! If you don’t adjust the
back pattern piece, the back will be too
long in the garment, excess fabric will
pool around the waist, the skirt hem in
the back will sag, and the side seams
will shift to the front.
Overlap
Back Back
Back Front
For example, let’s suppose your size is 38, height
the 3. Your BL measurement is 40.5cm. The standard
BL measurement is 42.2cm. The difference between
the actual and the standard measurements is 42.2-
40.5=1.7cm.
In this case you’ll need to adjust the pattern the
following way.
Trace the bust line on the back piece, 1cm below
the highest point of the side seam, perpendicular
to the grainline. Measure the distance from the
highest point of the shoulder seam (at the base of
the neck) to the bust line, and divide it in half. Trace
a line parallel to the bust line through this halfway
point. Cut the back piece along this line.
On the bottom section, measure 1.7cm down and
trace a line. Align the top section along this line,
making sure to match the grainlines. Secure the
pieces with scotch tape or glue.
Trace a new center back seam line, since there
might be a ridge after overlapping the pieces.
This adjustment significantly reduces the armscye
depth. In order to preserve its measurement, it’s
necessary to deepen the armscye line on the front
and back pieces by half of the adjustment amount
on the back piece. In this example it’s 1.7/2=0.85cm.
To do so, on the front and back pieces, measure
0.85cm down from the highest point of the side
seam. Draw a new armscye line.
As a result, the total armscye measurement stays
the same, but the back armscye and the front armscye
changed, which means that the center sleeve notch
needs to shift. Move the center sleeve notch towards
the back by 0.85cm, i.e. by half of the adjustment
amount.
It’s important to verify during the fitting whether
the adjusted armscye depth and the positioning of
the center sleeve notch are correct.
Sleeve
24
 2nd variation: the BL measurement
is close to or equal to the standard
measurement in the chosen height
category (and visually the back looks
curved), but the FL measurement is
higher than standard, although the
bust is a standard size (smaller than
C cup).
Spread
Front
Back Front
3rd variation: the BL measurement
is significantly smaller than the typical
measurement in the chosen height
category, and the FL measurement
is bigger, given a large bust size
(higher than C cup).
For example, let’s suppose your size is 38, height 3. FL
= 45cm, BL = 42.5cm. The standard measurements for
this size are FL = 43cm, BL = 42.2cm. Thus we see that
the particularity of this figure is in the longer front and
not in the shorter back measurement.
IMPORTANT! Don’t forget to visually assess the figure, this
is crucial, since the FL measurement might be bigger for a
number of reasons.
The difference between the standard and the actual BL
measurement is 0.3cm, which is insignificant and can be
ignored, there’s no need to adjust for such small variations.
The difference between the standard and actual FL
measurement is 45-43=2cm. You’ll have to adjust the front
piece for this kind of difference.
IMPORTANT! The maximum measurement by which you
can adjust the front is 2cm, you can’t adjust by more than
this, even if your difference is higher!
Trace the bust line on the front piece at 1cm below the
highest point of the side seam, perpendicular to the center
front line and the grainline.
Measure the distance between the highest point of the
shoulder seam and the bust line, and divide it in half.
Trace a line through this halfway point, parallel to the bust
line. Cut the front piece along this line. Spread the sections
by the necessary amount, in our example it’s 2cm.
Note that the armscye depth has increased significantly.
In this case the sleeve would need to be adjusted, and
it would be difficult to raise the arms in the finished
garment, the whole garment would ride up. Thus it’s
necessary to adjust the armscye depth to its original size.
To do this, raise the armscye point on both the front
and back pieces by half of the adjustment amount, in our
case it’s 1cm. Measure 1cm up front the highest point of
the side seam and trace a smooth line using a French
curve, connecting it to the original armscye line.
Measure the adjusted and the original armscye lengths
with the edge of a measuring tape, and compare them.
They should be practically equal. Since the armscye depth
hasn’t changed, the sleeve doesn’t need any adjustments.
But the front armscye length did increase, and that of the
back has decreased, so we need to move the sleeve cap
center notch towards the back sleeve by the amount of
the armscye adjustment, i.e. 1cm.
In this case you’ll need to adjust the back as described
for the 1st variation, and do a full bust adjustment as
described in the section for large bust adjustments.
25
 4.5 HOW TO CHANGE THE POSITIONING OF THE BUST DART
During fitting, ensure that the bust dart is positioned correctly and is directed at the bust apex.
If the dart apex is above or below the bust center, then mark the new center with a pen or marker
on the muslin. If you detected this error when fitting the garment in your fashion fabric, then mark
the new bust center with a pin. Next we need to transfer the dart legs, they must converge at the
new dart apex point, but the top of the dart legs on the side seam will stay in the same place.

How to correct:
Transfer the new bust apex from the muslin or garment to the paper pattern. Measure 2-4cm to
the left of this bust apex (towards the side seam), this will be the new dart apex. Trace the new
dart legs going from the new apex to the original points on the side seam.
Here are the steps to follow:
• Mark the new dart apex point. It can be above or below the original
• Connect the new dart apex to the original dart points on the side seam
• Measure the length of the dart legs and lengthen the shorter one
• Redraw the side seam
• Cut out the pattern piece, leaving extra seam allowance in the side seam around the dart
• Fold the dart closed, direct it up or down, depending on the pattern instructions, and cut along
the seam allowance. This will adjust the dart seam allowance to the correct shape.
A bit of theory: the dart apex must be aligned with the bust apex. Bust distance or bust spread
is the distance between one bust apex and the other. This distance is then divided in half and gives
the bust center point or bust apex. The dart apex must be placed at the level of the bust height
plus 0.5cm. The bust height is measured from the highest shoulder seam point at base of neck to
the most protruding bust point, ie the bust apex.

The bust dart is located below How to correct:

the bust line Transfer the dart apex point upwards to the
bust line, trace new dart legs.

BA - bust apex
BH - bust height

BH

Transfer the dart

apex to the left by
BA 2-4cm from the
intersection point of
BA and BH

Front

26
 The bust dart is located above How to adjust:
the bust line Transfer the dart apex point downwards to the
bust line, trace new dart legs.

bust height
Transfer the dart
apex to the left by
2-4cm from the
intersection point of
BA and BH

BA

Front

27
4.6 ADJUSTING SET-IN SLEEVES (NARROW OR WIDE SLEEVE)
Very often the question arises: “what to do if the upper arm circumference is bigger than standard
and the sleeve feels too tight during the muslin fitting?” This usually occurs in garments with set-in
sleeves with a small upper arm ease allowance (3.5-5.5cm), for example, in the Emory dress.
We recommend the following adjustment when your UAC measurement is 1-3cm bigger than
standard. If your upper arm circumference measurement is significantly bigger than standard, we
recommend to choose garments with a looser fitting sleeve and with an upper arm ease allowance
higher than 5cm.
For example, let’s suppose your size is 40, height 2. Your UAC measurement is 31.5cm. The
standard UAC in this size is 29.3cm. The difference between the standard and the actual measurements
is 31.5-29.3=2.2cm. Therefore the sleeve width needs to be increased by 2.2cm.
Let’s divide this difference in two parts (may be in half): 2.2/2=1.1cm.

Spread
Sleeve Sleeve Sleeve

Cut the sleeve pattern piece vertically from the center notch to the bottom edge, parallel to the
grainline, and spread it by 1.1cm. Tape a strip of paper from the wrong side. To find the new center
notch, divide the distance by which you adjusted in half and mark a notch at the cutting edge and
the seam allowance line. If needed, you may correct the sleeve cap curve with the help of a French
curve.
Divide the leftover amount to be adjusted (1.1cm) in half: 1.1/2=0.55cm. Let’s round it to 0.5cm
and add it to the left and right sides of the underarm seam, parallel to the edges. Don’t forget
about the seam allowances.
It’s now necessary to widen the front and back pieces along the top of the side seams by the
same amount, 0.5cm. Trace a new side seam using a French curve from the new top point and
taper it approximately to the waistline (ensure the dart is closed, if any). Don’t forget to adjust the
armscye line.

To do this, align the front and back pieces along

the top of side seam. The armscye line must be
smooth in this area (without any bumps). Using a
French curve, trace the new armscye line and the
seam allowance. If the adjustment amount is quite
large (above 2cm), then you might have to also
deepen the armscye in order to spread the sleeve
Back Front ease. The new armscye is longer by the amount by
which we spread the sleeve piece. The new sleeve
will have more fabric to ease in, so be ready to ease
the excess along the sleeve cap (not more than
0.5cm).

28
 4.7 ADJUSTING SHOULDER SLOPE
Square shoulders
The neckline tends to ride up. The garment
might have diagonal strain lines going from the
end of shoulders towards the bust, and horizontal
or diagonal draglines on the back across the
shoulder blades. The side seam might have
tension and pull up. There might be small
horizontal folds along the armscye, the sleeve
cap is stretched in the center.
The cause for these fitting issues lies in the
shoulder slope, this figure has shoulders less
sloped than standard, i.e. square shoulders.
The distance between the waist and the shoulder
tip is increased. This kind of shoulders is often
seen on figures with a straight back and wide
shoulders.
Sloping shoulders
The garment has diagonal draglines or pleats
going from the neckline towards the armscye.
The side seam is too long. You might see
horizontal and diagonal wrinkles coming from
the armscye on the front and back. The sleeve
cap sags in the center.
The cause for these fitting issues lies in the
fact that the shoulders are more slanted than
average, i.e. sloping shoulders. The distance
between the waistline and the shoulder tip is
decreased.
How to adjust
On the front and back pieces, raise the end of shoulder point.
Lengthen the shoulder if needed.
The corrections are made by adding extra seam allowance along
the shoulder seams. Adjust the seam allowances on the front and
back shoulder seams by raising the shoulder tip at the top of armscye.
Once the front and back are corrected, adjust the sleeve piece by
increasing the sleeve cap height, ie correct the sleeve cap to match
the adjusted armscye.
Front Back Sleeve
How to adjust
Lower the shoulder tip point until the slanted draglines disappear,
thus increasing the shoulder slope.
On the front and back pieces, lower the shoulder end point by the
necessary amount. Since this correction decreases the armscye length,
it’s necessary to also decrease the sleeve cap height.
Verify that the front and back armscyes at the shoulder level connect
properly. The armscye must be at 90 degrees at the end of the
shoulder line.
Front Back Sleeve
29
 4.8 ADJUSTING SHOULDER WIDTH
Narrow shoulders
The shoulders in the garment droop and the
shoulder looks like a dropped shoulder. There
are vertical pleats from excess material around
the front and back armscye as well as the
sleeve. The garment looks big in the top part
(above the bust line).
This figure has narrower shoulders than
standard.
Wide shoulders
The garment has horizontal strain lines above
the bust width level and pleats at the sleeve
cap, the garment is too tight. This figure has a
wider frame than standard, the shoulders are
wide.
How to adjust
To correct the pattern pieces or the garment, you need to shift the
armscye seam allowances on the front and back towards the garment,
thus decreasing the shoulder length. If needed, after the fitting you
can remove excess material in the underarm area, taking it in at the
top part of the side seam.
Front Back
How to adjust
To correct the pattern pieces or the garment, you need to shift the
armscye seam allowances on the front and back towards the garment,
thus decreasing the shoulder length. If needed, after the fitting you
can remove excess material in the underarm area, taking it in at the
top part of the side seam.
Front Back
30
 4.9 ADJUSTING ARMSCYE DEPTH
Shallow armscye How to adjust
The garment’s armscye is too small, it’s tight Add to the armscye depth, increase the sleeve cap height.
and digs into the armhole, there are small
slanted pleats and wrinkles going from the
armscye and sleeve.
This figure has a more pronounced shoulder
joint than average.

Front Back Sleeve

Armscye is too deep How to adjust

The garment’s armhole is too deep, the arm Raise the armscye at the underarm by the same amount on the
movement is restricted, the whole garment front and back, decrease the sleeve cap height.
raises when arms are raised.

Front Back Sleeve

31
4.10 HOW TO ADJUST GARMENT LENGTH AND SLEEVE LENGTH
How to shorten a dress
Trace a horizontal line on the back piece above the vent. Draw a second parallel line at the distance
by which you’d like to shorten the garment. Either fold the pattern piece to match the lines, or cut
and overlap, then tape in place. Verify the location and length of the vent. Make the same adjustment
on the front piece, at the same distance from the hem as on the back.

Front Back

Make a pleat
on the pattern
piece or cut
and overlap

How to alter sleeve length

If the garment sleeves came out too short, you can alter the pattern piece the following way. Cut
the pattern piece perpendicularly to the grainline, approximately at mid length level. Spread the
pieces by the desired distance and redraw the seam lines.
If, conversely, the sleeves came out too long, instead of spreading the sections, overlap them by the
desired distance.

Spread

Sleeve Sleeve

32
PART 5. WHY IS IT IMPORTANT
TO MAKE A MUSLIN?
In order to verify the fit of the future garment, check the volume, ensure the previously made
pattern adjustments are correct, practice sewing some complex steps, it’s necessary to make a
muslin.
A muslin is a copy of the future garment simplified in its finishings and completion stage, sewn
in a muslin fabric. If you purchased expensive fabric for your garment and you’re worried about
ruining it - definitely make a muslin!
If you’re unsure about the pattern adjustments you made and want to be able to further adjust
the muslin during fitting, it’s necessary to cut the muslin with additional seam allowances along the
shoulder, side, and waist seams, the armscyes, the garment and sleeve hems.
IMPORTANT! If you don’t have the possibility to make a muslin and do the fitting, then it’s necessary
to cut the garment with additional seam allowances as well in order to be able to adjust the fit as needed.
You should also add additional seam allowances when cutting out the final garment if your fashion fabric
frays a lot, or if the fashion fabric differs significantly in its properties from muslin.
In order to add extra seam allowances, trace a line parallel to the edge at the necessary distance, then
cut the pieces along the newly traced lines. Baste the garment along the original seam lines, thus leaving
a larger seam allowance.
The additional seam allowances can be at most 1-2cm, otherwise the large seam allowances
won’t let the seams lay smoothly without tension or distortion.
What fabric to use for muslins?
A muslin should be cut in a fabric similar in properties to the fashion fabric. Most often unbleached
or bleached muslin fabric is used. Ideally the fabric should be in a light solid colour, since a print
might disguise the design lines. Also it’s easier to make markings and adjustments on a light coloured
muslin. It’s important to pretreat the muslin fabric prior to cutting, for example by washing it in
warm water and pressing with steam.
Cutting out the muslin
Cut the muslin either exactly along the pattern pieces or with additional seam allowances. Note
that our pattern pieces already include seam allowances. All the pertinent information is in the
instructions to each pattern. The seam allowances are also marked on pattern pieces (except those
with multiple sizes on one sheet).
Which pieces to cut out for the muslin
In bottom garment, cut out all the pieces except pocket bags.
In top garments, cut out all the main pieces except all the facings and pocket bags. The collar
and collar stand can be cut as one piece only.
Cut the muslin on folded fabric, unless the garment is asymmetrical, then cut in one layer. Fold
the fabric in half with right sides facing, and with selvedges aligned, smoothly, without any twists.
The cutting is done in two steps: first position the large pattern pieces, then the smaller ones,
remembering to respect the grainline. The grainline direction on the fabric, which is parallel to the
selvedge, must match the grainline marked on the paper pattern pieces.

IMPORTANT! Do not cut out the darts and pleats on the pieces!
It’s important to transfer all the markings and notches onto the muslin pieces. This includes darts, pleats,
center front line, lapel roll line, buttons and buttonholes placement. On pants, mark the center front leg
lines and crease lines. Make sure to indicate ALL the notches and mark where the wrong side of the fabric
is. Buttonholes, buttons, snaps, etc. must all be clearly marked.

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 Interfacing muslin pieces
For bottom garments, it’s crucial to interface the waistband.
In top garments, interface the following pieces:
• collar, collar stand, waistband
The interfacing grainline must match that on the pattern pieces.
It’s also important to reinforce the muslin edges with seam tape interfacing (center front edges,
lapel roll line, back neckline, waistline edge on the bodice side [on a garment with a waist seam]).
Assemble the muslin following the main garment instructions.
Stitch all the muslin seams with a straight machine stitch, 3.5-4mm in length. Match all notches
when putting the pieces together, avoid stretching the seam allowances.
It’s important to press each seam after stitching as indicated in the instructions.

IMPORTANT! For bottom garments, it’s important to stitch or baste the waistband for the fitting.
For top garments, the yokes must be attached to the main garment, the shoulder and side seams must
be sewn or basted, if the garment has a waist seam, the bodice and bottom must be attached, the collar
and sleeves must be stitched or basted, the smaller decorative elements must be stitched or pinned prior
to fitting.

Fitting the muslin

Try on the muslin and fasten the closure, for example with pins. Smooth the garment on your
body. Evaluate the fit, the volume, find any fitting issues.
After the fitting, make the necessary adjustments symmetrically on both sides of the garment; if
needed, baste once more, and do another fitting.
If you find any other fitting issues, it’s necessary to eliminate them. If there aren’t any issues, you
can proceed to cutting your fashion fabric.

PART 6. PRETREATING THE FABRIC

AND CUTTING OUT

6.1 CHECKING THE FABRIC FOR DEFECTS

Prior to cutting, carefully check the fabric for defects - stains, holes, snags, print defects, etc. If
you find any, mark them with pins and/or chalk, and take them into account when laying pattern
pieces for cutting.
Carefully study the layout plans included in the instructions for your pattern and lay out the fabric
as directed (folded or in one layer). Next lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric as shown on the
plans.

6.2 FINDING THE NAP DIRECTION IN NAPPED FABRICS

Prior to cutting a napped fabric, it’s necessary to find the nap direction and indicate it with chalk
on the wrong side of the fabric by marking an arrow. To find the nap direction, brush the fabric
with your hand in both directions parallel to the selvedge. The nap direction is the direction in which
you don’t feel any fiber resistance when brushing it.
As a general rule, the nap is usually directed down. One exception is velvet fabric for which it’s
recommended to direct the nap, or pile, up the length of the garment, since this direction provides
a more saturated, deeper colour.
When pressing napped fabric, the motion has to be done only in the nap direction. 34
6.3 PRETREATING THE FABRIC
Most fabrics will shrink when sewn, pressed and steamed, and eventually washed, so it’s important
to pretreat the main fabric as well as the lining material.
The particularities of pretreating each fabric depend on the fiber content; find general guidelines
for each group of fabrics below:
Pretreating natural cotton or linen fabrics
Natural fibers usually shrink quite a bit after a wash, so soaking these fabrics is a must! Soak the
fabric in warm water for 0.5-2 hours, then wring the fabric by hand and dry it. Press the fabric in
a single layer while still damp.
Pretreating wool and wool blend fabrics
Wool and wool blend fabrics are pretreated only by pressing and steaming (without preliminary
soaking).
Pretreating fabrics with synthetic fibers
Normally synthetic fabrics don’t shrink from water, but do shrink from high temperatures, so the
iron temperature must be moderate when pressing this type of material.
Ensure to use moderate heat when pressing and steaming throughout the sewing process and
for the final garment press.
Pretreating lining fabrics
Lining fabric must be steam pressed on a moderate heat setting.

6.4 GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR CUTTING

Prior to cutting, familiarize yourself with the suggested cutting layouts in the instructions and the
way fabric must be laid out (folded/single layer). Also determine the grainline and crosswise grain
directions, since fabrics behave differently along the warp or weft direction. The warp represents
threads which go along the selvedge of the fabric, and the weft - the threads perpendicular to
selvedge.
If the pattern pieces are placed incorrectly, the garment will quickly lose its shape and will be
twisted.
Ways to lay out the fabric
The fabric is folded in half
Most often fabric is folded in half with right sides together and selvedges aligned. This method
works well for patterns where all the pattern pieces are cut in pairs (two fronts, two backs, two
sleeves, etc.), or for patterns where some pieces are cut in pairs and some on fold. For example,
the back is in two pieces, and the front is one piece cut on fold. In this case position the pattern
pieces the following way: the back to the selvedges, the center front to the fabric fold, etc.
The fabric is in one layer
If the pattern pieces are not cut in pairs, or the pieces are too large and don’t fit in half the width,
then the fabric must be in one layer. This method is also used whenever you’re cutting printed
fabric where pattern matching is important - cut one piece, then use it to cut the other piece so
that the print matches.
With two folds
If the front and back are both full pieces cut on fold, then it’s preferable to lay out the fabric with
two folds. This method is used most often for skirts without seams on the front and back skirt
pieces.
Prior to chalk tracing around pattern pieces, lay out all the pieces according to the layout plan,
ensure the grainlines are parallel to the selvedge, then secure the pieces with pattern weights or
pin them to the fabric. Next trace around each pattern piece with chalk and then cut them out. It’s
recommended to mark notches with chalk or snip with sharp scissor tips (maximum at 3-4mm
depth). It’s also important to transfer all the other markings and lines from the pattern pieces to
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the fabric.
6.5 SOME TIPS ON CUTTING ASYMMETRICAL PATTERNS
Prior to cutting out an asymmetrical design, we recommend preparing all the pattern pieces that
have a “FACE” marking, namely transfer the grainlines from the right side of the pattern piece to
the wrong. Then place these pieces to the wrong side of the fabric, with the wrong side of the
pattern piece facing up and the writings facing down, and chalk trace around the piece.
These pieces are cut one by one, and they must be laid out on the fabric only in one layer. If
your fabric is double-sided (no clear right or wrong side), it’s important to make a mark indicating
the wrong side of the fabric on the cut out asymmetrical pieces.

6.6 CUTTING OUT OF THE PIECES THAT MUST BE FULLY INTERFACED

To cut out pieces that must be fully interfaced (fronts, side fronts in lined garments, front facings,
pocket details, waistbands, collars, cuffs, facings), it’s recommended to “rough cut”, meaning to cut
the pieces roughly, with additional seam allowances around the perimeter of the pattern pieces:
+0.5cm around all edges
+1.5cm added to the length
In this case cut the interfacing according to the original pattern piece. Once the interfacing is
fused, you’ll need to cut out the pieces once again, this time removing the excess by cutting precisely
around the pattern pieces.

PART 7. HOW TO DO A FITTING

We recommend doing a fitting for all the garments. What for? The first fitting is done with the
goal of checking the balance of the garment (this is how a garment hangs on the body; the vertical
seams should be straight and perpendicular to the floor, and the horizontal seams should be straight
and parallel to the floor), correction of volumes (only to reduce the volume and in case you didn’t
make a muslin and didn’t make any pattern modifications prior to cutting fabric), correction of
garment and sleeve lengths, checking of the neckline depth.
For top garments, the fitting is done once all the necessary pieces are interfaced and seam tape
interfacing is applied. We recommend basting the darts and assembling all the pieces (including the
sleeves) along the main construction seams (center back seam, shoulder, side, and princess seams,
baste the yokes). If the garment has a collar, baste only the upper collar piece. Baste the garment
and sleeve hems. Baste sleeve cuffs if any. Baste flounces on the bottom of the garment. If the
garment has an insulating interlining layer, then the fitting must be done with the interlining. The
basting is done on the machine (stitch length of 4-5mm). In cases where the material is prone to
be marked by machine needles, it’s recommended to baste the garment with hand stitches (on
leather, suede, raincoat fabrics, silk, etc.). Test your garment prior to sewing to see whether machine
needles leave marks.
For bottom garments, baste the waistband, insert elastic into the channel. If the garment has
slash side pockets with a separate pocket piece, attach the pocket piece to the main leg piece for
the fitting. Just like for top garments, baste the hems.

IMPORTANT! If you do the fitting for bottom garments without the waistband, the fitting will be incorrect,
the top edge might stretch, and the garment might seem too large in the waist.

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 After assembly, the garment should be lightly pressed, the seam allowances pressed to one side
or pressed open.
To ensure a well-fitting garment, it’s important to properly assemble it for the first fitting, so pay
attention to the notches during construction. When you pin pieces together, pin first at the notches,
then at the ends and between the notches, making sure the fabric is laying smoothly. When pinning
and basting, the garment must lie on a flat surface, so use a table. If you do these steps with the
garment on your knees, the garment might come out twisted, the edges might stretch and end up
with different lengths.
If the basting is done by hand, make straight stitches about 1cm in length. To baste the garment
and sleeve hems, it’s preferable to use slanted stitches, 1.5-2cm in length. If it so happens during
basting that one piece is longer than the other, don’t rush to true them by cutting off the excess.
First make sure that the notches are properly matched, lay the pieces on a flat surface and try to
re-baste them together. If the pieces still don’t match in length, for example if one stretched or if
there was a mistake during cutting, then the truing can be done after the first fitting, during
construction of the garment.
What to look for during fitting?
The left and right sides of the garment should look the same.
Verify the balance of the garment – the side seams and the center back and front lines should
be vertical, verify the hem, it must be parallel to the floor (if the design doesn’t imply an asymmetric
hem). The back, front, and side seams should not sag or ride up.
If the garment has a center front fastening, the center front edges must match perfectly along
the hem, they shouldn’t overlap or push away from each other.
There shouldn’t be any strain lines or slanted folds where the future buttons/snaps will be attached.
The garment must have a comfortable volume, not too tight or restricting, but also not too large.
The shoulder seam must lie on the natural shoulder slope, it shouldn’t pull to the front or back.
There shouldn’t be any horizontal wrinkles across the back, nor any tension across the shoulder
blades, shoulders, and neckline.
The front also shouldn’t have any horizontal, vertical, or slanted draglines.
Verify the placement of pockets, verify the sleeve fit, evaluate the collar and lapels shape,
presence/absence of fit issues associated with individual features of the body.
The sleeve should hang smoothly, without any wrinkles or draglines.
The collar should fit snugly around the back neck.

After the fitting, mark changes symmetrically to both sides of the garment; if needed, baste once
more and do another fitting.

Once you’re confident of the fit, you can begin sewing. You’ll need to remove all the basting stitches
prior to starting the final assembly.

Second fitting. What for? To verify the width and length of the sleeve, placement of buttons/snaps,
correction of shoulder pads height, width/length of elastic.
How? We recommend doing this fitting prior to permanently setting in the sleeves. The garment
and sleeves must be assembled with the lining.

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PART 8. GLOSSARY

Basting - temporary stitching of pieces with the

intent to remove them at a later step.

Let’s look at a few examples where basting might be

used:
- temporary joining of two pieces identical or similar
in size. For example, to baste shoulder and side seams,
sleeve seams, center back seams, etc.

- temporary joining of two pieces different in size. For

example, attaching a yoke to a back piece, a cuff to a
sleeve.

- temporary joining of two pieces whereby a smaller

piece is placed on top of a larger one. For example, hand
stitching a belt loop to a front piece on the markings,
basting a patch pocket to a front.

- temporary securing a folded edge with hand

stitching along a marked line. For example, basting a
garment hem in place along the hemline.

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 - temporary securing of an edge that has been
previously stitched and turned with the seam allowances
on the inside, forming a roll along the edge. For example,
basting edges on a collar, flap, front edge, welt pocket, etc.

- temporary joining of pieces along a rounded opening.

For example, temporarily inserting a collar into a neckline,
or a sleeve into an armscye.

Overlocking - finishing a raw edge on an overlocking

machine (also called serger) or by hand with the aim of
preventing fraying. For example, overlocking side and
shoulder seams raw edges. This is a permanent stitch.

Pick stitch – attaching pieces together from the wrong

side with a hand stitch with permanent stitches. Used in
outerwear to secure a basted collar edge, front edge, etc.

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 Easing – equate the length of one piece to another
(fully or partially) when joining them. For example, easing
a set-in sleeve cap into the armscye

Invisible hem–secures a folded or finished (overlocked

or bias bound) garment edge to the garment with
permanent invisible hand stitches. For example,
hemming pant legs, skirts, dresses, sleeve edges, etc. with
stitches that are invisible from the right side.

Stitching – assembling pieces together or attaching

notions with permanent hand stitches. For example, to
sew on a button.

- joining two pieces

with a permanent stitch
on the sewing machine,
where one piece is
smaller than the other.
For example, stitching a
yoke to a front, a cuff to
a sleeve, etc.

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 - stitching on a sewing
machine to join two
pieces which will then be
turned right side out with
the seam allowances
enclosed on the inside.
For example, attach a
facing to the neckline,
stitch a tab, flap, face a
front edge, etc.

- joining two pieces of equal or similar size together

along aligned edges on a sewing machine with
permanent stitches. For example, stitching side and
shoulder seams, sleeve seams, etc.

- stitching two pieces together on the machine along

a rounded opening. For example, inserting a collar into
a neckline, a sleeve into an armscye, etc.

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 Topstitch – attach a
smaller piece to a larger
one on the sewing
machine. For example,
topstitch a pocket flap
to a front, a belt loop
to a waistband, etc.

- topstitching along seams or edges of a piece. For

example, topstitch around the perimeter of a belt.

- securing opened seam allowances from the right

side by topstitching, or topstitching pleat folds to the
face of the garment.

Understitch–to secure a seam allowance to another

piece, stitching very close to the seam (1-2mm). For
example, to secure the seam allowances to a facing or
lining.

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 Hemming – to secure a folded edge on the sewing
machine along a marked line. For example, to hem a
garment’s bottom edge along the hem allowance.

Pressing and steaming – treating a garment or sections

of a garment with heat, moisture, and steam using
specialized equipment.

Pretreating fabric – soaking, washing, pressing and

steaming fabric prior to cutting with the goal of achieving
maximum shrinkage.

Press flat – decrease

the thickness of a seam,
fold, or edge of a piece
by pressing and steaming
as sewn.
For example, pressing
a shoulder seam flat right
after it’s sewn.

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 Press to one side – direct seam allowances, darts, or
pleats to one side and secure in place by pressing and
steaming.
For example, pressing seam allowances towards the
back, pressing a dart towards the center back skirt, etc

Final press – final pressing and steaming of smaller

pieces in order to remove any wrinkles and irregularities.

Interfacing – attaching garment pieces to interfacing

material in order to give it more structure and prevent
stretching.

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 Truing – trim off excess material to match original
pattern piece or the intended shape

Shrink – press and steam with the goal of reducing the size. For example, to shrink out
excess material at dart point, shrink neckline seam allowances, etc.

Stretch – press and steam with the goal of increasing

the size. For example, stretching and pressing edges on
the back leg of pants, stretching and pressing a
waistband edge to give it a concave shape.

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 Press open–place seam allowances or pleat intake to
opposite sides and secure in place by pressing and
steaming. For example, pressing open the side seam
allowances of the front and back pieces.

Clip – make small cuts into the seam allowance,

stopping 1-2mm short of the stitching line.
For example, clip into the armscye seam allowances
prior to turning the garment right side out. Clipping
helps a curve lie flat.

- clipping seam allowances on a corner, 1-2mm away

from the stitching. This helps reduce bulk on a corner
when turned right side out.

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