Sustainability in Footwear Production

Sustainability in Footwear Production
Sustainable Materials and Components for Footwear
Footwear products combine a great variety of materials and components that are selected by
considering the design, application and performance required. The most common type of
materials and components (MaC) actually used include:
• Leather, canvas, polyurethane, PVC, some textiles and synthetic materials in the
upper part.
• Leather, vulcanized rubber, thermoplastic rubber (TPR), polyurethanes (PU),
thermoplastic polyurethanes (TPU) or Ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) in lower part.
• Shanks, nails, laces, eyelets threads, velcro, foams, heels, toe cap and etc.
Additionally, new solutions are being developed to enhance the products properties and
functionalities.
Figure: Scheme of shoe parts
To develop, produce and commercialize more ecological and sustainable products, the
companies need to have for each of type of MaC, knowledge and competences regarding the
followings,
• Type & origin of MaC – renewable materials, natural, recyclable or biodegradable;

• MaC manufacturing – environmental impact of the process;
• New MaC;
• Quality control requirements and durability of the MaC.
©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Lecturer Version 3: August 23, 2023
ILET, University of Dhaka Page 1 of 21
Eco-design and product engineering
Behind the realization of a sustainable product, there is certainly its design. Most of the
environmental impacts of a product are determined at the design stage.
Figure: Footwear life cycle assessment
Environment
“Environment” in the modern context of sustainable development encompasses the physical

and social factors of the surroundings of human beings and includes land, water, atmosphere,
climate, sound, odour, taste, energy, waste management, coastal and marine pollution, the
biological factors of animals and plants, as well as cultural values, historical sites, and
monuments and aesthetics.
The sequential operations the materials, components and footwear products are subjected to,
give added value to numerous resources but result also in volatile organic compounds
(VOCs), liquid effluents and solid wastes, among other minor emissions. These aspects
should be in the context of the applicable legal framework, complemented with management
options and best practices.

Carbon Footprint and Energy Efficiency
During the last years energy costs have fluctuated dramatically. At the same time there is a
political, as well as, a social focus on the impact of CO2 emissions and climate change. To
reduce both energy costs and CO2 emissions, energy efficiency programs should be run in
every factory, as well as, in larger offices, warehouses and stores.
A first step towards increasing energy efficiency is to measure and analyze the energy
consumption and to consider in which areas energy saving measures are feasible. Simple
measures such as, switching machines off when not in use, using servo motors in sewing
machines or changing to energy efficient LED lighting have proven to be highly profitable at
relatively low or no investment cost. Another option is to optimize the heating and cooling of
buildings. Typically, air conditioners or heating systems can be adjusted in a range to fit the
outside temperature (for example adjusting the inside temperature to 23 instead of 20 degrees
Celsius while outside temperature is at 30 degrees Celsius) rather than setting the temperature
to maximum power. Taking this aspect further, a good insulation of buildings helps to save
energy used for heating and cooling. Furthermore, waste heat from the production process
may be used for heating purposes of the building as well as natural ventilation or evaporation
cooling effects for energy efficient cooling.
Good Practice Examples

PUMA Plaza, Herzogenaurach
A good practice example is the PUMA Headquarter, PUMA Plaza, in Herzogenaurach,
Germany. Concrete core temperature control is used to efficiently heat and cool the buildings.
Three photovoltaic power systems generate around 152,000 kWh of electricity per year and
thus aid to save approximately 75 tons of CO2 per year while at the same time generating
considerable financial income as the generated power is sold into the public grid.
Besides this, all electricity purchased from the public grid runs under a renewable energy
tariff, making the whole office Carbon Neutral in terms of electricity consumption. In
addition, censors within the building turn off lights automatically if employees are not at their
desks or in stairways, thus saving electricity. Heating required during the winter season is
generated with using combined heat and power plants from the local energy service provider,
and party using landfill gas as fuel.
Figure: Solar Panels at PUMA Headquarters in Herzogenaurach, Germany

Such good practices are, however, are not limited to PUMA Headquarter. Their leading
suppliers have started to implement similar actions. Photovoltaic Power Generation System at
Key (Fujian) Microfiber Hua Chang with an investment of more than 10,000,000 RMB, the
factory has installed rooftop photovoltaic power systems to generate 1,250,000 kWh from
renewable source. This results in a reduction of 1,713.8 Ton CO2 emission per year and
payback time in 6.5 years (table 1). Since China is on its inevitable trend to move toward the
renewables as a source of energy security, Key (Fujian) Microfiber Hua Chang aims to
expand its current Photovoltaic Power Generation System before reaching 6.5-year payback
period.
Figure: Photovoltaic Power Generation System at Key (Fujian) Microfiber Hua Chang
Table 1: Photovoltaic Power Generation System Investment and its Savings.
Water Quality
Legal Compliance
All suppliers should have the necessary permits and licenses from their local authorities to
extract and discharge water, may it be from underground sources, surface water or public
supply. Moreover, waste water discharge must meet national regulatory compliance
standards. On the other hand, water efficiency plays critical role in a sustainable
manufacturing. Despite the fact that 3% of the earth’s volume of fresh water supply is a
renewable resource, the supply of clean and fresh water is steadily decreasing as the world’s
population continues to rise.
Applying Industry Good Practices will reduce the need for costly investments in water
treatment and delivery systems. Industry Good Practices including appropriate monitoring
management, efficiency improvements, accurate measurements and constant savings should
be implemented at all levels of the supply chain.

Figure: Distribution of the earth’s water
Waste Water
Wastewater Effluent Standards

Before the final discharge of wastewater into the public sewer system the water must be
controlled according to the national laws set forth by the corresponding governments. In case
of an onsite wastewater treatment plant, the discharge of the treated water must be controlled
according to the parameters mentioned below and according to local environmental
regulations.
Figure: Wastewater discharged directly into natural body of water (left) vs. Wastewater
properly treated before discharge (right)

According to ECR’23 (Schedule-5 (6): Tannery Industry)
Effluent (liquid waste)
Parameters Standard for presence in a unit of mg/l
pH 6–9
Suspended solids 100
BOD5 at 20 oC 30
Sulfide (as S) 1
Total Chromium (as Cr) 2
Oil and Grease 10
Chloride (Cl-) 2000
Phenols 1
Wastewater per ton of hide processing (in
30
cubic meter)
*Note:
• Salt should be recovered through mechanical desalting and soak liquor separation.
• Chrome recovery plant should be established in case of chrome tanning.
Suggestion for Pollution Prevention for tannery and footwear industry:
• Store dry materials, such as bags of salt or dye drums, off the floor and away from
liquids by placing catch pans beneath the material
• Plug floor drains in material storage areas
• Use dry clean-up methods; provide brooms, vacuums, and absorbents
• Provide suitable work areas handling tools, and training to operators so they can avoid
creating spills
• Provide measuring equipment to operators
• Avoid filling process equipment with water from unmetered hoses; place meters on
water supplies feeding process equipment
• Use counter current or multi-stage rinsing to reduce water use
• Reuse wastewater from other processes that do not require high quality water
• Test incoming water supply for minerals or chemicals that negatively affect the
process
Hazardous Waste
Hazardous waste is a special type of waste that cannot be disposed of by common means as it
can or could pose substantial or potential threats to public health and/or the environment.
Hazardous waste can be in the form of gas, liquid or solid. The US Environmental Protection
Agency (EPA) defines hazardous wastes as materials that are known or tested to exhibit
hazardous characteristics such as:

Toxic - Waste that is containing concentration of certain substances that exceeds regulatory
threshold which are expected to cause injury or illness to human health or harm to the
environment.
Corrosive - Acid waste with pH less than or equal to 2 and bases with pH greater than or
equal to 12.5 that are capable of corroding metal containers such as storage tanks, drums and
barrels. An example is battery acid.
Flammable - Flammable or ignitable waste can cause fire under certain conditions and
spontaneously combust or have a flash point less than 60oC. Examples are waste oil and used
solvents.
Reactive - Waste that are unstable under normal conditions and can cause explosions, toxic
fumes, gases or vapour when heated, compressed or mixed with water. Examples are
lithiumsulphur batteries and explosives.
Toxic Corrosive Flammable Reactive
Factories must comply with all international and national laws related to storage, handling,
transport and final disposal of hazardous waste. In many countries, companies are required to
register the type and quantity of hazardous waste that are being generated from their
operations.
Every factory is also required to have trained personnel on staff to handle hazardous waste.
National environmental authorities also require a legitimate and duly authorized hazardous
waste transporter as well as a legally authorized hazardous waste disposal and treatment
facility.
Solid (Non-Hazardous) Waste
The increasing volume of waste during manufacturing processes and the lack of regulations
for the treatment and/or disposal of the waste in developing countries are seen as a significant
risk for the future. The occurrence of waste cannot be avoided in most of the production
phases but the reduction of waste should be considered for all manufacturing steps.

All parties involved in the production of products should take measures to encourage the
options that deliver the best overall environmental outcome.
Prevention is closely linked with improving manufacturing methods and influencing

consumers to demand greener products and less packaging.
Reuse is any operation by which products or components are not wasted and used again for
the same purpose for which they were conceived.
Recycling is any recovery operation by which waste materials are reprocessed into products,
materials or substances whether for the original or other purposes. It includes the
reprocessing of organic material but does not include energy recovery and the reprocessing
into materials that are to be used as fuels or for backfilling operations.
Figure: Waste Hierarchy
Energy Recovery from waste is conversion of non-recyclable or reusable waste materials into
useable heat, electricity, or fuel through a variety of processes, including combustion,
gasification, pyrolysis, anaerobic digestion, and landfill gas (LFG) recovery.
Land Fill or Incineration without Energy Recovery is the only final way for waste treatment
will be the disposal or the incineration of the waste if none of the above possibilities are
feasible. In any case, all relevant laws and regulations of applicable countries must be
followed. The disposal route of waste must be entirely documented by official waste
contracts or invoices.

Good Practice Example
Replacing polybags with reused fabric bags in Shenzhou Cambodia
Reusable fabric bags are a necessary alternative to plastic ones which have become a
significant environmental problem. Shenzhou Cambodia has been applying successfully this
idea in different processes such as Cutting, Sewing and Printing for multi-purpose storage.
The factory avoids 1.2 ton of plastic waste generation every year with 10 month payback
time.
Figure: Reused fabric bags in Cutting, Sewing and Printing
Take back policy and downscale recycling in Beautiful Spring, Takeo, Cambodia. In the past,
many empty drums in different sizes were disposed as hazardous waste which was costly. A
new take back policy has become the primary motivation for the factory management to work
with local suppliers on take back and recycling options. For example, Beautiful Spring turned
non-hazardous drums which into useful waste collection bins or other tools. The take back
policy, down scale recycling, reused paper and reward program have been successful so far
and resulted in savings for the factory.

Figure: Paper reused Figure: Downscale recycling
Soil and Ground Water Protection
Wastewater, chemicals, oils or other toxic liquid substances represent a risk of contaminating
the soil and ground water. It is important to avoid migration of any of these liquids into the
ground or the aquatic environment. Those hazardous and toxic substances must be stored in a
secondary containment. Factories must ensure that storage areas and containers are designed
and operated to minimize the risk of any releases. To achieve this safeguard, storage areas
should be located away from watercourses and sensitive boundaries. In addition, storage
areas should avoid being adjacent to areas of public use and should be protected against
vandalism. These storage areas should be clearly marked and containers should be clearly
labelled. All factories are urged to not exceed the maximum storage capacity of their storage
areas. It is important that containers are regularly inspected. The entire storage area should be
built as a secondary containment, for example, by using special paint to make the floor
impermeable and building surrounding bund walls. Alternatively, when secondary
containment installations are not possible, protection trays may be used for all containers. It is
the producer’s obligation to have emergency plans ready in the event of accidents or cases of
damaged or leaking containers.
Figure: Migration of toxic substances into the groundwater, prevention through secondary
containment

The storage of open containers, even if empty, in an outside area should be avoided.
Otherwise, rainwater might mix with the rest of the chemicals and contaminate the soil,
ground water or adjacent water-bodies. Any storage must be bounded and sealed, as
explained above.
Oil Contamination
Minor oil spill and leakage are often the most unnoticed if not ignored in many factories or
plants. This usually comes from lubricants, fuel oil, etc. Oil contains hazardous and toxic
chemicals such as heavy metal leads that can contaminate the soil and ground water where
drinking water might be extracted, posing a direct risk to human health. In run-off, like in
case of rain, the spilled oil will be carried into the public drainage system and will end up in
the rivers, seas or other surface water systems.
Oil does not dissolve in water and it can form a very thin film on the water surface.
Therefore, a small amount of oil can pollute a vast area of surface water. Apart from the toxic
effect to aquatic organisms, the oil film covering the surface of the water prevents natural
biochemical processes, like photosynthesis, from happening and therefore endangers the
aquatic ecosystem.
All factories should make all employees aware of the risks of improper handling of oil, oil
spills and leakages. All oil containers, large or small, should always be provided with
secondary containment to prevent oil spill or leakage to the ground or drainage at all times. It
is not advisable to allow oil to contaminate the wastewater stream, even though it will go to
wastewater treatment facility, because oil is not only difficult to remove from the water but
also affects the physical-chemical process of wastewater treatment. It is always advisable to
contain all oil spills and leakage because even if oil is dirty, there are many technologies
available to reprocess the oil and reuse it either as low-grade lubricant or fuel.
Air Pollution Control
All suppliers must be aware of and strictly follow the local regulations pertaining to air
pollution. Depending on the type and size of operations, devices for the prevention of air
pollution might be necessary. Typical examples would be:
• Filters for exhaust systems carrying volatile organic compounds (solvents)

• Dust filters for exhaust systems from dusty areas, e.g., knitting departments; outsole
grinding or buffing in shoe factories
• Filters for larger burners, i.e., for steam generators or heating systems
Regular checks on the quality of discharged air must be performed to ensure that all
equipment is working properly. The records for these checks should be kept for a minimum
of two years.

Figure: Dust filters for exhaust systems Figure: Filters for larger burners
Sustainable Packaging for Footwear
Introduction
From all generated household waste, nearly 65% consists of packaging materials. Packaging
is often underrated by most customers, while it fulfils essential functions. Most packaging
functions would have served their time, as soon as a consumer has picked up the packaging.
Packaging of shoes is going through a redesigning process mostly by bigger companies. It is

because of modern trends of sustainability, green design or circular economy. Green
packaging design is a designing packaging method which aims to reduce, reuse, and recycle
the materials used to make packaging. As most of the consumers prefer green packaging and
prefer products which are packaged with eco-friendly packaging. This indicates a change of
the consumers’ mindset in the way of the ethical side as well as producer awareness towards
the environment is becoming one of the factors that determine consumer. Moreover, in
designing green packaging is important to improve the efficiency of natural resource usage,
and utilize all packaging components to be useful not only as a medium to protect and sell but
also to add value beyond its basic functions.
Paper and cardboard are one of the oldest materials which still cover the largest proportion of
packaging. Although paper cardboard may be easy to recycle, the production of these
materials is still harmful to the environment – with large amounts of carbon emissions and
energy required to process and transport. For shoes, paper is used as stuffing paper or filler
paper to preserve the shape of the shoe, wrapping paper to protect the footwear in a pair box,
pair box to protect the finished pair of shoes before delivery to the customer and transport
packaging for transporting the finished products. Some companies even use two cardboard
boxes to send shoes to the final customer.
Another substance in shoe's boxes is silica gel. Silica gel is a desiccant, a substance that
absorbs moisture, which makes these packets perfect for keeping things extremely dry and

moisture-free. Silica gel itself is non-toxic, but can have additives of some dangerous
chemicals (e.g., dimethyl fumarate) and cobalt dichloride. Because of the excessive risk of
the presence of dangerous substances inside the silica gel, the new anti-mould stickers (e.g.,
Micro-Pak) became popular, usually glued to the top of the shoe-box.
Packaging must meet several functions. In first place, to protect the packaged contents. It is
an extremely important element in the supply chain, distribution system, and finally the
method of use or handling of the product. It also contributes significantly to a more secure
and long-term use of the products. Despite this, packaging has a negative connotation in the
general public’s perspective due to the huge accumulation of packaging waste on landfills.
With regard to packaging, there is also the other side of the coin. Actually, packaging
prevents the formation of additional massive amounts of waste, which may arise due to the
rapid deterioration of food and the damage to goods during transportation or storage.
Packaging also enables easier and cheaper delivery of goods to the consumer.
Packaging manufacturing companies and companies who use packaging for their products
will be less competitive in the future if they ignore the obviously increasing trend of the
environmental requirements in product development. Therefore, the question arises how to
tackle the planning, design, development, and deployment of environmentally friendly
packaging. What are the criteria they should comply with?
Definition and purpose of packaging
There are a lot of definitions for packaging, but a broad and well-established one can be:
packaging is “a coordinated system of preparing goods for transport, distribution, storage,
retailing, and their end-use; the means of ensuring the safe delivery to the final consumer in a
sound condition at minimum cost; a techno-economic function aimed at minimizing the costs
of delivery while maximizing sales (and hence profit)”.
According to Hanlon, the functions of packaging system are basically to protect, contain,
carry, and dispense a product. The Consumer Goods Forum has also made a broader
definition of packaging system functions, which are:
• Protect the product.

• Promote the product.
• Provide information on the product, usage, health and safety, disposal, etc.
• Enable the convenient transportation and usage of the product.
• Allow the unitization of the product through the supply chain.
• Support the efficient handling of the product throughout the supply chain.
Finally, and obviously, it is possible to conclude that one of the main purposes of packaging
is to ensure that a product can be transferred from the point of production to the point of use
in perfect condition, so that the product itself is in the condition expected by the user.

Packaging classification
The packaging classification can be made with regard to many different categories. Most
important classifications are: composition material, purpose of use and packaging layer,
durability of use, field of use, contact of packaging with the material, etc.
Packaging material
Packaging can be made from different kinds of material. Most important are: paper and
cardboard, plastic, textile, wood, metal, glass, and composite materials. In shoemaking
production, paper and cardboard are the most often used packaging materials. Less important
are plastics and/or metal cans, glass bottles for liquids, and chemicals and wood for wooden
pallets for the transportation of goods.
Purpose of packaging use and packaging layer
Depending on the purpose and/or the function in the logistic chain, packaging is divided into
more basic types of packaging:
• Sales packaging (also called consumer, retail, or primary packaging), is the sales
packaging at the point of purchase. This is the term used to designate the layer of
packaging in immediate contact with the product; in other words, it is the first
packaging layer in which the product is contained. Primary packaging can have
diverse applications and functions, depending on the product, transit, and storage
variables. The most obvious, and important function is to protect and preserve the
product from damage, external interference or contamination, spoiling and chemical
imbalances. This packaging also serves to keep a product in storage, often for long
periods of time. In this case, it is imperative that sales packaging keeps the product
absolutely sealed off from its environment. Ease of handling and shelving is a further
aspect to be considered, so as to ensure the product can be easily handled by
consumers.
• Display packaging (also called merchandising or secondary packaging) is the
packaging used at the point of purchase to contain or present a number of sales units.
It can be removed from the product without affecting its characteristics. This
packaging designates the packaging used to group various pre-packaged products
together. As secondary packaging is not in direct contact with the actual product, its
use and application usually differ distinctly from those of primary packaging,
although the purpose of both types may at times converge. Display packaging serves
to group several products together for ease of handling, transport, and storage. This
means that the packaging must be able to: contain relatively large volumes of primary
packaged products, transport the product safely to its retail or consumer destination,
and to keep the primary packaging in its original condition during storage. Secondary
packaging is intended to protect not only the product, but also the primary packaging,
which is often the packaging most visible to the consumer in retail displays.

• Transport packaging (also called distribution, traded, or tertiary packaging) is
the packaging used to facilitate handling and transport of a number of sales units or
grouped packages in order to prevent physical handling and transport damage. This
packaging focuses on the packaging requirements of the goods in transit, in particular
for items travelling overland by road or rail. Given the nature of the road and rail
infrastructure, transport packaging should be manufactured so as to absorb unintended
shocks, impacts, or accidents of any kind, as well as protect against the elements such
as humidity, excessive temperatures, or heavy weather. Transport packaging must
take into account the possibility of multiple stages in transit before the product
reaches its final destination. This packaging should be as individual as the product
itself and perfectly match the product’s consistency (dimensions). The focus here is
also on packaging that is lightweight, robust, easy to handle, and that takes up as little
space as possible.
Packaging is only as good as the materials it uses. As industrial goods are often either heavy,
bulky, sensitive to external contact or hazardous substances, industrial packaging materials
include: stainless steel, corrugated containerboard, paperboard and fibreboard, wood, etc. It
should be able to meet international packaging standards, as well as the quality control
requirements of the countries of manufacture and final destination (Figure 1).
product is stable and sealed, so as to protect both the product itself and the persons handling
it. Dangerous goods packaging often comes in a secondary form (to reinforce the primary
packaging, or facilitate its handling/ bulk packing). Labelling is of the utmost importance in
dangerous goods packaging, as this indicates the correct manner in which the hazardous
material ought to be handled, carried and stored. Incorrect labelling can greatly reduce the
effectiveness of dangerous goods’ packaging and can pose great risk for the persons handling
the product.

The environmental design of packaging-Packaging Eco-Design
The traditional design is targeted at the production phase and the use of products, but neglects
those phases that are made prior to the production and management of products when they
become waste. The environmental problems in traditional design are pushed into the
background or are even completely ignored in extreme circumstances.
Today, the approaches are completely changed. It raises the question of how to integrate
those environmental aspects in product development, and what criteria and tools to use for
this purpose. It is important to recognize that environmental considerations must be balanced
with other features of the product and quality aspects as well as costs. The integration of
environmental considerations will be more successful if it becomes part of a broader
environmental policy or the environmental management of the companies.
Eco-design (environmental planning and product design) is defined as the integration of

environmental aspects into product design and development with a view to reducing the
negative environmental impact throughout their entire environmental life cycle.
In short, the design of environmentally friendly products can be generally defined as the
systematic consideration of environmental and health and safety factors during the
designing/planning of products from raw material to waste management.
The aim is to use an appropriate material, appropriate design, and the appropriate technology
to reduce material and energy consumption per unit of product, to eliminate the use of toxic
and harmful substances, and/or facilitate the recycling process. The identification of
environmental problems in the early stages enables organizations to firstly adopt appropriate
decisions and, on the other hand, to better understand how such decisions impact the
environmental aspects which are controlled by other players, such as manufacturers of basic
and auxiliary materials, waste processors, etc.
Approaches and concepts to the environmental design of products are different and many
times interrelated. They include the different stages of product life cycles, which allow the
use of different eco- design strategies.
The approaches and concepts of the environmental packaging planning are diverse, but often
mutually complementary and interdependent. The figure shows the general guidelines and
guidelines for environmentally preferable packaging planning, the so-called concept “7xR”.
These aspects represent, together with the standards, a framework for the self-assessment of
environmental appropriateness of the packaging and facilitate the integration of
environmental considerations into the development process. But it raises the question: How
to integrate the environmental aspects in the development of packaging and what criteria and
tools for this should be used?

ASPECT OF PACKAGING SUITABLE ENVIRONMENTAL
DESIGN CRITERIA
Raw materials Efficient use of resources, emissions in the
production, the ability of recycling, the
migration of harmful substances.
Colour The ability of recycling, toxicity

Size and design Efficient use of resources, emissions during
transportation
Thickness Efficient use of resources, emissions during

transportation, reuse
Structure (components) Efficient use of resources, reuse, the ability of

recycling
Plugs, labels, etc. The ability of recycling, reuse, the migration
of harmful substances
Glue, printing colours, paints The ability of recycling, emissions during

production, toxicity
Graphical design Reuse
Table: Basic elements and aspects of packaging design and associated environmental
impacts
The eco-design of the packaging thus covers more areas which constitute the basis for the
redesign of the existing packaging or the introduction of new packaging concepts. These
areas are,
• designing the minimal amount of packaging (dematerialization)

• designing for recycling
• designing for reuse
• designing for composting
• avoiding harmful substances
• designing for better consumer awareness

Design for a minimal amount of packaging (dematerialization)
Minimizing or reducing the weight of packaging, or dematerialization, represents one of the

most important development trends in the field of packaging. Dematerialization of all types
and categories of packaging is also one of the main criteria for eco-design. The reasons for
reducing the weight of packaging per unit of packaged product does not lie only in increasing
environmental awareness, but also play an important role in the economic interests of
producers and users too. Not only in the field of making additional costs but also because of
the continuing increases of raw material prices. The fact is that producers are often using too
much packaging. It is also obvious that the trend of dematerialization could not be carried out
without certain technological developments in the field of packaging materials.
An important indicator of the efficiency of the packaging is the ratio between the weight of
the packaged goods and the weight of the packaging. The higher the ratio, the better it is in
terms of resource efficiency and reducing packaging waste. The weight ratio of the packaged
product and the necessary packaging thus spans a wide range, from 1:1 to 200:1, and is on
average about 10:1. In the footwear industry, however, this ratio is somewhere between 2:1
for summer light shoes and 12:1 or 15:1 for trekking or mountaineering shoes, for example.
One of the key issues of packaging design is how to optimally determine the amount of
packaging material. Two different demands face each other here: the demand for adequate
protection (which is a key feature of the packaging) and the minimum possible amount of
packaging material used. Both are linked to the economic function of the packaging, which
aims to optimally achieve other functions of the packaging at minimal cost.

Oversized packaging increases the impact on the environment due to too much unnecessary
packaging material used; however, excessively reducing the packaging weight can lead to the
opposite effect on the environment. For example: oversized packaging by 10% means that
after use, 10% of the resources needed to produce and transport it will be lost. On the other
hand, insufficient packaging (one that does not sufficiently protect the packaged goods) will
result in a 100% loss of all the resources necessary for the production, manufacturing,
transportation, and storage of the product, including the packaging.
Figure. Optimum packaging
The amount of packaging material used is dependent on the:
• type of packaging
• size of the packaging
• construction of the packaging
• coordination in the use of the packaging material with a packaging production system
• selection of basic and auxiliary packaging materials
A few additional measures on how to improve material efficiency in relation to the packaging
are mentioned below:
• reducing the thickness of the packaging within the limits that ensure the protection of
the goods.
• eliminating unnecessary empty space, layers, and components.
• selection of the quantity or volume of the packaged goods that actually meets the
needs of the consumer.
• minimal use of printing resources (especially in cases where these resources are not
the key factor for customer decisions).
• ensuring the good fit of the sales packaging into the packaging group.
• optimization of the collective packaging for maximizing the volume of the pallets
• determining which are the most effective competitive packaging products in terms of
minimum material consumption for the same purpose of use.

PUMA case study of sustainable shoe packaging
PUMA is a globally well-known company producing sportswear clothes and shoes. Their
mission is to be the most desirable and sustainable sport lifestyle company in the world. That
is why PUMA issues a Sustainability report every year. This case study focuses on the
specific project of sustainable shoe packaging, which was introduced in 2010 and removed
from the market in 2015.
The company partnered with Fuseproject’s Yves Béhar in San Francisco to reinvent the
shoebox. New solution for shoe packaging was called the “Clever Little Bag”. The unique
packaging system eliminated the shoebox entirely. Instead, it consisted of a die-cut sheet of
ink-free, thin-gauge recycled paperboard that tapers to form four walls, which were then held
in place by a 20%, non- woven polypropylene bag. One of the basic ideas was that, unlike the
cardboard boxes, there would be no need for additional plastic carrier bags for the reusable
shoe bags.
The clever little bag consisted of a non-woven polypropylene bag and corrugated “bone”
providing stability to the design and ensuring at the same time that there is no contact
between the shoes. The design of the bag was different due to the missing middle layer the
bag weight was potentially 25 % lower compared to the standard box.
Therefore, the weight of the bag was approximately 0.02 kg. The same corrugated material as
for the current design (100% recycled material) was used for corrugated “bone” and weighed
approximately 0.082 kg.
Figure: New solution for shoes packaging
The cardboard structure was cut from one flat piece of material and had no additional printing
or assembly; thus, it could be returned to the stream faster and more efficiently. The structure
was created with four walls that taper in to allow for secured stacking. The bag was non-
woven which means less work and waste (it was stitched with heat). It was made to protect
the shoes from dust and dirt in the warehouse and during shipping. The “clever little bag”
could also be repurposed for creative reuse. The bag was made of non-woven polyester
consisting of polypropylene, and eventually is also recyclable.

Other sustainable shoe packaging solutions
PUMA is not the only company who tries to find a new solution for shoe boxes. Another
example is company Viupax, who decided to reinvent the shoe box in 2017 and minimize
space needed for transportation of shoes. The new solution by Viupax is an eco-friendly box
designed by Matadog Design from Greece. It uses up to 57% less paper and needs an average
area of 0.25 m2. It saves up to 50% of space in the container. Moreover, it could be used as a
shipping box. For this idea Viupax won 3 international design awards in 2018.
Viupax offers two options of licensing: (1) A volume-based fee, that is available for a
multimillion box annual order and (2) an annual lump sum free. Boxes are produced by
Viupax's supplier. Special boxes are designed for children's shoes - they can be easily
converted into toys.
Figure: New solution for shoes packaging made by Viupax
Discussion and conclusion
Packaging in the footwear industry is an important topic. But there are not so many new and
green solutions. It could be questioned the way, how companies transport empty space in
boxes, but also excessive materials. Through the research we found out that there is a focus
on sustainable shoe or clothes materials, but little companies do about package itself nor
ways to transport those products.
To have the example of PUMA in mind, we could clearly state that a sustainable option is not
always the right solution for customers or retail. Still, it is right to rethink the way companies
use to do standard packaging. The possibilities are reduction of packaging material, reduction
of transported empty space, reduction of transport distance, usage of biodegradable materials,
other use of packaging (f.e. as a toy for children), etc.


Sustainability in Footwear Production - 2

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Sustainability in Footwear Production - 2

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Sustainable Materials and Components for Footwear

Figure: Scheme of shoe parts

• Type & origin of MaC – renewable materials, natural, recyclable or biodegradable;

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Figure: Footwear life cycle assessment

“Environment” in the modern context of sustainable development encompasses the physical

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Good Practice Examples

Figure: Solar Panels at PUMA Headquarters in Herzogenaurach, Germany

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Table 1: Photovoltaic Power Generation System Investment and its Savings.

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Wastewater Effluent Standards

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Effluent (liquid waste)

Parameters Standard for presence in a unit of mg/l

Suggestion for Pollution Prevention for tannery and footwear industry:

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Toxic Corrosive Flammable Reactive

Solid (Non-Hazardous) Waste

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Prevention is closely linked with improving manufacturing methods and influencing

Figure: Waste Hierarchy

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Figure: Reused fabric bags in Cutting, Sewing and Printing

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Soil and Ground Water Protection

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Air Pollution Control

• Filters for exhaust systems carrying volatile organic compounds (solvents)

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Sustainable Packaging for Footwear

Packaging of shoes is going through a redesigning process mostly by bigger companies. It is

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Definition and purpose of packaging

• Protect the product.

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Purpose of packaging use and packaging layer

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Eco-design (environmental planning and product design) is defined as the integration of

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Colour The ability of recycling, toxicity

Thickness Efficient use of resources, emissions during

Structure (components) Efficient use of resources, reuse, the ability of

Glue, printing colours, paints The ability of recycling, emissions during

• designing the minimal amount of packaging (dematerialization)

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Minimizing or reducing the weight of packaging, or dematerialization, represents one of the

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Figure. Optimum packaging

The amount of packaging material used is dependent on the:

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Figure: New solution for shoes packaging

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

Figure: New solution for shoes packaging made by Viupax

Discussion and conclusion

©Md. Mukter Alam Topic: Sustainability in Footwear Production

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