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New Collar Collecti ve

Fos t er Man ua l

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I NTRODUCTION

Welcome and thank you for fostering with New Collar Collective!

We are excited to have you join our community of fosters. As a Foster


Volunteer, you provide a soft space for our rescue animals to land – and in
some cases you may be their very first home. As a foster-based rescue we
cannot do this important work without you!

Our rescue animals are placed directly into your home from our intakes. As
a Foster Volunteer, they rely on you to provide them with a safe, stable, and
loving home while they wait for their forever family. We will provide you with
the supplies you need, and vetting costs are covered by New Collar Collective,
but we need you to provide the love and guidance for them to flourish.

New Collar Collective recognizes and values our Foster Volunteers as partners
in our mission to rescue and rehome dogs and cats. This partnership requires a
consistent and genuine effort to ensure you receive the information, resources
and support you need to be successful. If you have any questions or would like
to send us your comments or thoughts on how we can improve our community,
please email us at foster@newcollar.co.

Warmest regards,
The New Collar Collective Founding Members

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Contact I nformation

NCC - Fosters & Volunteers Facebook Group (private):


www.facebook.com/groups/FostersVolunteersNCC/

Foster: foster@newcollar.co
Vetting: vetting@newcollar.co
Supplies: supplies@newcollar.co
General: info@newcollar.co

Emergency phone number: 647-360-7788


**PLEASE ENSURE THIS NUMBER IS SAVED IN YOUR PHONE**

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Table of Contents

Chapter 1: Intro to Fostering.............................................................................................7

Foster Workshops.......................................................................................................7

Matching Fosters.........................................................................................................7

Fostering........................................................................................................................8

Don’t Give Up..............................................................................................................8

Supplies.........................................................................................................................9

Vacation/Work Trip Coverage..................................................................................9

Lost Foster Prevention..............................................................................................11

Chapter 2: Foster Dog Guidelines and Policies........................................................12

Preparing for Your Foster Dog’s Arrival...............................................................12

Dog-Proof Your Home..............................................................................................13

Foster Dog Supplies.................................................................................................13

Bathing Your Foster Dog.........................................................................................14

Introducing a Foster Dog to Your Resident Dog...............................................14

Introducing a Foster Dog to Your Resident Cat.................................................15

Introducing a Foster Dog to Children...................................................................15

What to Expect the First Night and Week...........................................................18

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Lost Dog Prevention.................................................................................................20

Off-Leash Dog Parks................................................................................................22

Resource Guarding or Aggression?.....................................................................23

Dog Fights...................................................................................................................26

Feeding Your Foster Dog.......................................................................................27

Bones and Toys........................................................................................................28

Potty Training.............................................................................................................28

Crate Training.............................................................................................................31

Is This Separation Anxiety?....................................................................................36

Chapter 3: Foster Cat Guidelines and Policies.........................................................37

Preparing Your Home for Your Foster Cat’s Arrival..........................................37

Foster Cat Supplies...................................................................................................37

Cat-Proof Your Home..............................................................................................38

Introducing a Foster Cat to Your Resident Dog...............................................39

Introducing a Foster Cat to Your Resident Cat.................................................39

Introducing a Foster Cat to Your Children..........................................................40

What to Expect the First Night and the First Week.........................................40

Litter Box Training......................................................................................................41

Feeding Your Foster Cat........................................................................................42

Enrichment for Your Foster Cat............................................................................42

Lost Cat Prevention..................................................................................................42

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Chapter 4: Foster Health.................................................................................................45

Vetting..........................................................................................................................45

Emergency Procedures..........................................................................................46

Emergency Kit...........................................................................................................47

Hazardous Foods.....................................................................................................47

Hazardous Plants......................................................................................................49

Essential Oils - What You Should Consider........................................................50

Common Household Poisons................................................................................50

Chapter 5: Preparing for Adoption...............................................................................51

Prepare to Let Go......................................................................................................51

Feeling all the Feelings?..........................................................................................51

Help Get Your Foster Animal Adopted...............................................................52

Meeting Potential Adopters...................................................................................53

I’m Fostering a Rescue Animal - A Letter to Share With Your Neighbours..........54

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Chapter On e : Intro to Fostering

The policies outlined below are guidelines for how we run our rescue and
there may be instances where exceptions are made. We will revisit these
policies periodically to ensure they still meet our intended objectives and the
needs of the rescue animals, our Foster Volunteers and New Collar Collective.

New Collar Collective retains all rights of ownership of all animals in the foster
program. The animals’ best interest is always our top priority and New Collar
Collective reserves the right to move a foster animal to another foster home
for any reason including, but not limited, to training requirements, foster needs,
and/or operational requirements.

Foster Workshops
All Foster Volunteers must attend a Foster Workshop. Foster Workshops are
a great opportunity for you to learn more about New Collar Collective, ask
questions and get acquainted with other Foster Volunteers in our community.
Ideally you will attend a Foster Workshop before you are matched with a foster
animal, but we recognize that it doesn’t always work out that way and ask that
you attend the next scheduled time.

Matching Fosters
New Collar Collective matches rescue dogs and cats with Foster Volunteers
using all the information available to us. We aim to ensure an appropriate
match is made based on the information our Foster Volunteers provide
regarding size and energy preference, however, there may be cases where
availability of details about the animal are limited. If at any time you need to
make a change to your foster profile, please email your Foster Coordinator.

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Fostering
As a Foster Volunteer, you are an animal’s temporary family. There is no exact
science to how long a rescue animal will need to be fostered. The average
time for a dog is about 3-6 weeks, and it may be up to several months for cats.
During this time, the only people who may care for the animals are approved
New Collar Collective Foster Volunteers. Foster dogs may be walked or let
out for potty breaks during the day by a dog walker (at your own expense), a
neighbour, family member or friend if needed, so long as New Collar Collective
receives the contact information (email address and mobile number) of the
individual and written confirmation that they have been provided a copy of
the foster manual and understand the rules pertaining to our Lost Foster
Prevention Best Practices and the restriction on the use of off-leash dog parks.

Don’t Give Up!


While we do our best to give you a perfect match, we know that fostering can
be stressful and emotional. New Collar Collective provides ongoing support
to our Foster Volunteers to ensure things are going smoothly as well as to
provide advice when there are challenges, however at times, you may feel
like giving up. Please understand that these animals have been through a lot
and bouncing them from one foster home to the next is not ideal and should
only be done as a last resort. If you are
struggling, we encourage you to reach out to
your Foster Coordinator so they may offer you
additional guidance - you are never alone.
If you do require us to move your foster
animal, every effort will be made to transfer
the animal as quickly as possible, however, we
ask that you be patient and allow us the time
we need to find another suitable foster home.

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Supplies
All supplies provided by New Collar Collective are the property of the
organization and must be returned to our storage depots or drop-off locations
as soon as possible after your foster animal has been adopted. We rely on
getting our supplies returned in a timely manner so they can be used to save
more animals. Please do not make us chase you to return them. If you need
help returning your supplies, posting a note in the NCC Foster/Volunteer
Facebook group may connect you with someone that can assist. Please be
kind to your fellow Foster Volunteers and future foster animals by ensuring all
the supplies you return are clean and in working order.

If you require supplies that you did not receive when picking up your foster (i.e.
more food), please provide us with at least five days’ notice. Don’t wait until
you are down to your last piece of kibble! If that happens, you may need to
purchase your own small bag to tide you over at your own expense.

Vacation/Work Trip Coverage


If you are going to be away for a vacation or work trip that will
require temporary foster coverage, please let your Foster Coordinator know
a minimum of two weeks prior to your departure, preferably earlier. Include in
your email the date you will need to drop your foster dog off and the date you
will pick them up. Moving a foster dog can be very difficult on the animal and
we may decide to relocate them to a new full-time foster who can keep them
until they are adopted. Decisions such as these are made in the best interest of
the animal; our goal is to limit the number of times a foster dog must settle into
a new home.

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It can be especially difficult to move a foster cat to a temporary foster,
therefore, if you need to be away for work or vacation, we ask that you arrange
for a family member or friend to stay at your home with your foster cat. The
individual must be approved by New Collar Collective as a temporary foster
by submitting a foster application and carrying out a shortened screening
process. If this is not feasible, please contact your foster coordinator as soon
as possible. If you’re going to be away for an extended period of time, New
Collar Collective may move your foster cat to a new foster home. Again, these
decisions are for the best interest of the animal and will be made on a case-by-
case basis.

Are you thinking about taking your foster animal with you out of town? Most of
the time, that’s ok! But you will need to provide your Foster Coordinator with
the details of your plans including the address, the duration of your stay, and
any additional contact information while you are away. If your foster animal has
an adoption application pending, they may need to be available for a meet
and greet. Taking your foster animal away from your home requires pre-
approval. Foster animals cannot leave the province.

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Lost Foster Prevention
We take lost foster prevention very seriously and ask that our Foster
Volunteers cooperate with our Lost Foster Prevention Best Practices to
help our community avoid such cases. All rescue animals are a high flight
risk. Losing a foster is not only a situation that endangers the animals in our
care, but also puts a heavy strain on the resources of our organization. Please
read the Lost Dog Prevention and Lost Cat Prevention protocols, in Chapters
2 and 3 respectively, thoroughly and bring any questions to your Foster
Coordinator if you need clarification.

All foster animals will be supplied with a New Collar Collective ID tag which
includes the phone number to call in case of emergency or lost foster (647-
360-7788). Please save this number in your phone and carry your phone
with you every time you are out of the house with your foster animal. If
you do not have the emergency contact saved in your phone and your foster
animal should get loose, precious time will be lost which should be directed at
recovering the loose animal.

Please note - you will be asked to sign our Lost Foster Prevention Best
Practices with your foster contract.

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Chapter Two: Foster dog Gu idelines and Policies

Preparing For Your Foster Dog’s Arrival


It’s important to make plans for your foster dog’s arrival before you pick
them up. Talking about fostering as a family can help sort out any questions
your family has about responsibilities and expectations. What mealtimes and
exercise schedule work best for your family? Where is your foster dog’s crate
going to go? The crate will be their safe space and should be placed in a quiet
but common area where your family spends a lot of their time as dogs will want
to be near you. Closing doors and using baby gates to keep spaces off-limits
will reduce the stress on your foster dog and help prevent accidents.

Working out these details ahead of time will help prepare you for your foster
dog’s arrival.

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Dog-Proof Your Home
As you won’t know your foster dog’s behaviours, it’s important that you dog-
proof your home to eliminate risks and dangers. Go room by room and look at
things from a dog’s perspective (get low!). Here’s some things to watch out for:

• Electrical cords, shoes, bottle caps or things that have fallen below the
couch that may look enticing for a dog to chew on.
• Cupboards and drawers that are not properly closed or secured.
• Valuables or knick-knacks on accessible tables and shelves.
• Garbage cans that are not inside a cupboard or don’t have a dog-proof lid.
• Medications, lotions, cosmetics, cleaning products and other toxic items
within a dog’s reach.
• Food left out on the counters.
• Places where your foster dog can hide that may not be safe.
• Items that could be knocked off by an excited, wagging tail.
• Toxic plants within a dog’s reach. See page 49 for more information.

Dog Supplies
Dogs will be supplied with two leashes, a harness, a tagged martingale collar,
food, and a crate. As we rely on donations, we may have items such as beds,
bowls, poop bags, treats and toys available. Some Foster Volunteers choose to
feed their foster dog food they’ve purchase on their own. That is not a problem
and, as we are reliant on donations, greatly appreciated. If you do purchase
your own food, please choose one of good quality.

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Bathing Your Foster Dog
While we understand that most foster dogs will not smell great when they
arrive, we ask that you refrain from bathing them until you receive permission
from your Foster Coordinator. It’s possible that your foster dog may have
recently had surgery, in which case water could dissolve stitches, or have other
medical reasons to hold off on bathing. You may use baby wipes or a wet towel
to wipe them down initially and contact your Foster Coordinator for approval
before giving your foster dog a bath.

Introducing a Foster Dog to Your Resident Dog


When your resident dog meets the foster for the first time, it is important to
have them meet on neutral ground if possible. Walk them together but keep
them separate and give them space to check each other out, sniff and interact
at their own pace. Keep the initial interaction brief – after they have touched
noses or sniffed butts, separate them, and involve them in another activity
before another short introduction. This can help prevent escalations of tension.

Once home, keep your foster dog leashed to allow them to acclimate to their
new surroundings. Feed the dogs separately and try to not leave toys out until
they have developed a rapport, as this can lead to resource guarding. Do not
leave the dogs unattended together at any time; they must be always be
supervised. Give both dogs space to be separate from each other; putting
their crates in different rooms is a good way to do this. Remember to keep an
eye on the body language of the dogs and only introduce your foster dog to
one dog at a time. If you observe any negative body language, separate the
dogs before trying again. It can take some time for the dogs to figure out how
they will interact together.

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Introducing a Foster Dog to Your Resident Cat
Once your foster dog has come home, let them settle and get comfortable
before you introduce them to your cat; this can take several days. Keep them
in separate rooms, and let the dog sniff outside the door of the room the cat
is in. This can also be done by crating one animal and allowing the other to
sniff. When it is time to introduce the dog and cat, keep the dog on a leash and
harness. The dog will be curious and want to sniff, but it is important to keep
them calm. A cat bolting away seems like a fun game and it’s normal for any
dog to chase an animal that runs. A cat sitting still in your lap is ideal or sitting/
lying somewhere they feel safe.

Indifference is good and means the animals can co-exist! Do not let the dog
bark, lunge, or chase the cat and redirect to ensure these behaviours do not
continue. Keep encounters brief for the first few days and watch how the
animals are interacting with each other, calmly praising good behaviour. A cat
may swat at a dog to warn that they do not want to interact; this is a signal that
your foster dog should be encouraged to listen to by leaving the cat alone.
Just as dogs need to work out their relationships with other dogs, your foster
dog and cat will need some time to figure out how they will interact with each
other.

Introducing a Foster Dog to Children


New Collar Collective believes that fostering a rescue animal is an opportunity
that should be open to families with children four years and older and we only
match dogs that our rescue partners indicate are appropriate. Nonetheless, it’s
still important to remember that these are rescue animals and most of the time
we do not have knowledge of their history or exhaustive details about their
temperament.

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As a parent it is your responsibility to ensure that your children are aware
of how to appropriately interact with your foster dog, and to provide proper
supervision. Before your foster dog comes home, talk with your family about
what the foster animal needs from them – especially when they first arrive. Let
them know that the animal may be scared, nervous, tired, or overwhelmed.
Some easy tips include being calm and quiet, not jumping around or making
sudden movements, not sitting on or being rough with the animal, not putting
their face directly in front of the animal, and to keep their toys and small
objects out of reach. Please review the “Doggie Language” poster on page 25.

Even if you do not have children in your home, you may find yourself in a
situation where there are kids around your foster dog. Children should always
have their parent’s permission prior to petting your foster dog, and the dog
should remain on leash at your side, even while indoors. Does your dog wag its
tail and seem happy in the presence of children or do they appear fearful and
reactive (cowering, shaking, tail between legs, hackles up, ears back, barking,
growling, on edge or unsure)? Some dogs may initially seem uncomfortable
because they have never had the opportunity to interact with children, but
there are others who are not tolerant of kids and should be placed in a
home without them. Noting in your foster
behaviour form how they behave around
kids can provide us with valuable information
to help us match dogs with an appropriate
adoptive family. Regardless of how the dog
seems to behave, children under the age of
12 should never be left unsupervised with a
foster dog.

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Here are some additional tips for safe introductions to children:

• Dogs should be on a leash and introduced outside on a short walk.


• Children should calmly approach the dog from the side and stay at a safe
distance allowing the dog to come to the child on its own when it’s ready.
• Dogs say hello first by sniffing, and should be given the chance to do so
before the child attempts to pet it.
• Children should not try to pet the dog’s face when first being introduced.
• Avoid having children give treats or toys to dogs until you are more aware
of the dog’s ability to take items gently. Many dogs have some level of
resource guarding or excitability that can be a challenge if children are
trying to offer a treat or engage them with a toy. Children should be
discouraged from taking anything the foster dog is in possession of.
• Remind kids to speak calmly, not jump around or make sudden movements.
Some dogs are easily excitable while others can be frightened and react in
negative ways.
• Foster dogs who are eating or sleeping should be left alone. We encourage
feeding dogs in their crate, and this should be a quiet time for them.

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What to Expect the First Night and the First Week
Settling into a new home is a big change for a foster dog and it’s important
to keep things low key. It’s a time for the dog to adjust to your home and the
people who live there, and not the time to have lots of visitors and excitement
in their new environment. Dogs crave structure and need healthy boundaries
set, so starting a routine from the very start is important.

The First Night


Your foster dog may be scared, shut down, and smelly. Give them some space
and let them come to you when they are ready. Go about your regular tasks
– unload the dishwasher, watch TV, talk on the phone. You may wish to keep
them tethered to you with a leash. Let the foster dog see that this is all a part
of regular life. Set up their crate with a cozy blanket or towel, and toss in some
treats to lure them in. The most important thing to do on the first night is to let
the dog decompress.

Try not to overload them with love and attention and instead speak in a calm,
confident tone and go easy on the treats as to not upset any tummies. If you
have children in the home, explain to them that it’s important to give the dog
some space. No petting, physical interaction or hanging out until the dog is
ready. Your dog may not want to eat so don’t force it, just leave the food bowl
out and give access to plenty of clean fresh water. Your foster dog may have a
bit of an upset tummy – diarrhea is common as they may be stressed in a new
environment. Having some canned pumpkin on hand (pure pumpkin puree, not
pumpkin pie filling) is helpful as it can help settle loose stools.

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The First Week
Try to keep socialization and over-stimulation to a minimum. Resist the urge to
invite your friends and family over and ignore other dogs and people on your
walks. Keep the dog off the furniture! While it can be hard not to let them up
to snuggle, this is an important part of setting boundaries. No extreme petting,
snuggling, or over-handling. Let the dog come to you for attention and do
not force it. Be prepared for accidents by picking up some Nature’s Miracle
cleaner. Keeping your dog crated when you cannot supervise them directly will
help mitigate this issue.

Remember that your foster dog may never have seen or experienced things
like stairs, televisions, washing machines, bicycles, or the dreaded vacuum.
These things can be strange and scary, but do not avoid the things that make
them fearful – just show them slowly that there is nothing to be afraid of. Do
not let the dog get away with things because you feel sorry for it. If you allow
it now, it will be difficult to change going forward. Lay down the rules now
and you will be glad you did! It is possible that your dog will try to test the
boundaries, much like a teenager would. Be consistent with your routine.

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Lost Dog Prevention
During the first two weeks with your foster dog, two leashes must be used at
all times. After two weeks if there are still concerns that a dog is a high flight
risk (see below), please continue to use two leashes for the duration of its time
in your care.

You will be provided with a martingale collar, a harness and two nylon leashes.
Please ensure the harness is properly fitted before using outside (must be very
snug to the dog’s body). After a two-week period, if the dog appears to be
comfortable walking on leash (does not pull or get spooked by loud noises),
you may begin using one leash attached to either the harness or martingale,
while keeping the martingale on the dog at all times. For dogs under 20lbs, we
recommend attaching the leash to the harness.

New Collar Collective does not supply slip leads by default, however, they
may be used and provided upon approval in certain situations (i.e. a suitable
harness is not available, an approved trainer is recommending a slip be used,
etc.) If you would like approval to use
a slip lead, please reach out to your
foster coordinator. If you have been
given a slip lead, please ensure you
reach out to your foster coordinator
to discuss proper technique as
incorrect usage can lead to injury or
loss of the foster.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 20
Please use the supplies provided to you by New Collar Collective or receive
prior approval by email from the supply manager and your foster coordinator if
you intend to use your own supplies. If any equipment supplied to you
gets lost or damaged, please contact the supplies manager and your foster
coordinator immediately to arrange for a replacement.

Please ensure the martingale you are provided with is always on (even while
in the home), properly fitted to the dog, and has a New Collar Collective ID tag
attached. To ensure a proper fit, slip the Martingale collar over the dog’s head
and adjust so it is comfortably tight around the dog’s neck; you should only be
able to slip one or two fingers under the collar. It is important that you attach
the leash to the D-ring on the loop of the collar, and not the ID tag ring.

A foster dog should never go unleashed while outside unless in a securely


enclosed area with sufficiently high fencing. Each time your foster dog is
allowed into such spaces, make sure to check that all gates are firmly shut. A
foster dog should never be allowed to stay in any outdoor area without
supervision. Our rules on off-leash dog parks are outlined on page 22.

While New Collar Collective will not supply you with a dog seatbelt for your
foster, if it is within your means we encourage you to supply one for vehicle
rides. This seatbelt should only be attached to the dog’s harness, not to the
martingale. If you do not have a dog seatbelt, please secure your foster dog’s
leash to the seat as to prevent them from jumping out when the doors are
opened. Car windows should only be opened slightly if need be as dogs
can fit through shockingly small openings. NEVER leave your foster dog
unattended in a vehicle.

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Unfortunately, dog theft is a very common occurrence, therefore, never leave
a foster dog tied up and unsupervised in any outdoor space including public
places and your yard.

Please be mindful when opening outside doors to your home to ensure your
foster dog does not escape. No outside doors should ever be left open for
any length of time other than what is absolutely required. Furthermore, please
ensure no open windows or balconies are left unattended around your foster
dog. If you do have a balcony that your foster dog may have access to, please
ensure you supervise while they are on it.

If your foster dog does manage to get loose, here’s what you should do:
• Do not chase the dog or appear panicked as this will worsen the situation
and likely cause your foster dog to RUN. Although it is counter intuitive, you
have a better chance of securing a running dog if you run away from it and
call out using a high-pitched voice.
• If the dog is not running away, sit down facing away from the dog, speak to
it in a calm, happy voice, and wait for it to approach you.
• If these methods do not work, contact the emergency number on the ID
tag as quickly as possible.

Off-Leash Dog Parks


Off-leash dog parks have many variables that can make them an unsafe area,
therefore, bringing your foster dog to an off-leash dog park is prohibited. We
do not know how your foster dog will react to being in such an overwhelming
environment, and other owners may not have control of their dogs.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 22
There may also be increased health risks to the foster dog as these parks
can be breeding grounds for disease. You will be responsible for any injury-
related or other such costs incurred should you still decide to take your
foster dog to an off-leash dog park.

It is possible to provide foster dogs an opportunity to run off leash in areas


that are fully fenced and free from other dogs but please note that some of
the areas which seem suitable have municipal by-law restrictions that should
be adhered to. If you choose to utilize such areas, please note New Collar
Collective will not reimburse you for any fine you may receive. Do not take
dogs to outdoor ice rinks (with or without ice) as the chemicals used on the
ice/concrete can be harmful to animals. An extra-long lead (20 or 30ft) can
also provide a foster dog an opportunity to run and explore in a safe area while
still being on leash. Note - a second leash should always be put back on after
the “free play time” is over.

Resource Guarding or Aggression?


Resource guarding does not mean you have an aggressive dog. If your foster
dog comes from a shelter or the streets, it is likely that they have had to fight
for their food at some point in their lives.
Resource guarding can extend to toys, treats,
space that they feel is valuable, and even
you! Depending on the dog, it can come
from a place of anxiety and fear, or it can
come from dominance. Resource guarding
can present as a dog’s body stiffening,
growling, or baring teeth.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 23
If your dog is showing some guarding behaviours, it is important to remain
calm. Make sure mealtimes are quiet, calm times where the dog doesn’t feel
the need to protect its food. One of the most important commands to teach
a foster dog exhibiting signs of resource guarding is “leave it/drop it”, as it
instills in them the training to drop any item on command. Working on these
behaviours in short “training periods” can help a foster dog understand that
they no longer need to operate in protection mode.

Making your foster dog work for their food is also a great way to work on
their resource guarding. By dedicating a few minutes every day to feeding
small handfuls of their food while they perform a command also gives you an
opportunity to bond with your foster dog and keep them mentally stimulated.

For toys, it is a good idea to keep those away from your foster when they are
not playing. After all, toys should be a privilege earned. It also makes them last
longer if your foster is prone to destroying them, and in general, they should
not be used while unsupervised as they can become a choking hazard. Stuffed
animal toys should never be left in a crate when the dog is unsupervised.

Resource guarding around other dogs is also quite common - after all, why
would they want to share their delicious food or toys? If you are experiencing
resource guarding at mealtime, we recommend you separate the dogs.
Feeding your foster in their crate not only helps them feel safe while eating, it
also reinforces the idea that their crate is a positive space where good things
happen.

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w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 25
Dog Fights
Should your foster dog get into a fight with another dog, here are some tips to
stop the fight safely:
• Stay calm. Most dog fights will only last a few seconds.
• NEVER use your body or limbs to get in between the dogs. Human safety
always comes first.
• Make as much noise as you can to distract them: stomp your feet, clap your
hands, bang on a garbage can, yell.
• Spray the dogs with water or any other safe liquid you have on hand.
• Insert an object between them to separate them: a garbage can lid, a big
stick, a piece of cardboard.
• Throw a blanket/jacket over them so they cannot see each other anymore.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 26
Feeding Your Foster Dog
It is important to be consistent when creating a feeding schedule. Feed your
foster dog at the same time each day and create a separate space so they can
feel comfortable when eating. We encourage you to feed your foster dog in its
crate as it helps the dog associate good things with being crated and creates
a safe place for them to eat. Many of our rescue dogs have likely experienced
food scarcity at some point in their lives. Feeding dogs in their crate can help
prevent resource guarding. If you have other pets in the home, please feed
your foster dog separately so as to prevent any conflict over food. We also
encourage you to not feed your foster dog any people food.

Adult and adolescent dogs should be fed twice daily (morning and late
afternoon). The quantity of food will be determined by the weight and age of
the animal. Refer to the suggested guidelines on the food packaging. If you do
not have the original package, most manufacturers will include this information
on their websites.

Foster animals may have some digestive upset as they transition to new food.
Should this happen, there are a few things you can try. Take them off kibble
altogether for a few meals and feed them boiled white rice with cottage
cheese or boiled chicken for a day or two. Always have a can of pure pumpkin
puree on hand...just be sure it’s not pumpkin pie filling! If you are switching
brands of food, it’s a good idea to mix food half and half for a few days before
switching to the new brand altogether.

There should always be fresh water available. If dogs are crated when alone,
please ensure they have access to their water as soon as they get out of their
crates (maybe after a quick pee though!).

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 27
Bones and Toys
We ask that you do not give your foster dog any bones or rawhides as they
can be dangerous and cause blockages. Any chew toy you provide your foster
should be durable and not break apart easily. Toys that have been ripped
apart and have pieces that could be easily ingested should be discarded
immediately. The stuffing inside plush toys can also be a great hazard and
foster dogs should not be left unattended with them.

Potty Training
Sometimes your foster dog may have a few accidents as they settle into your
home. Many of these dogs are used to living in a shelter and need to learn or
re-learn where they’re supposed to be doing their business. Most of the time,
foster dogs get used to going outside very quickly, especially if you follow
the tips and tricks below. If your foster dog is having a few more challenges,
please reach out to your Foster Coordinator for support.

1. Location, location, location!


As strange as it sounds, once your foster dog goes the first few times in the
same spot, they will often go in this spot when taken outside.

2. If no luck the first time, walk, crate and repeat


If your foster dog doesn’t do their business while on a walk after being crated
for a while (overnight or after being left alone), put them back in their crate for
20-30 minutes and try again. Bathroom shyness can be an initial behaviour
with rescue dogs and repeating this walk, crate, walk cycle until you have
success can be an effective method to help with housetraining.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 28
3. If you are leaving them alone in your home, always use a crate
As mentioned previously, crating can really compliment potty training! Dogs
do not like to soil where they eat and sleep and will likely hold off on doing
their business until they are no longer in it. Make sure you take them outside
and encourage them to do their business before being crated. It is important,
however, not to leave your dog in their crate for an extended period and force
them to “hold it”. An accident in the crate because they’ve been left alone for
too long will not help your housetraining efforts.

4. Let your foster dog focus on the task at hand


When you are taking your foster dog out to do their business, don’t distract
them from the task at hand. Potty time is not playtime until after they have
done their business. Stand quietly with them as they are finding their spot
and then praise their success after the fact. It can sometimes help to calmly
say “go pee” or something similar just as they start, as some dogs can be
encouraged to pee “on cue”.

5. Give them lots of treats, praise, and pets when they go in the right spot!
It’s important to praise or reward your foster dog as soon as they’ve finished
doing their business. Rewarding their action on the spot will help them
understand that they just did exactly what you wanted them to do. If you wait
too long, they will not associate the treat with going pee outside. Rotate your
rewards so that sometimes they are getting a treat, and other times praise or
some pets. If your foster dog is having a few challenges getting the hang of
doing its business outside, make sure you are giving high-value treats (treats
they don’t get any other time) for potty success.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 29
6. Set your foster dog up for success - take them out multiple times a day
While you are still getting to know your foster dog and their habits, it is
important to take them outside multiple times a day. It all comes down to
probability - the more often they are taken out, the more likely they are to do
their business outside. You can start to reduce your trips outside as you start to
learn your foster dog’s potty schedule and the signs that they need to go.

7. Accidents happen...and here’s what you should do


If your foster dog has an accident in the house that you didn’t see happen,
don’t scold them as they will not connect your displeasure with having gone
pee/poop earlier. Instead, clean the area thoroughly so they are less likely
to repeat the act in that same spot. Nature’s Miracle Urine Destroyer is a
great product to have on hand. If you notice your dog having an accident in
the house, startle them by clapping or saying “Ah Ah” loudly, then take them
straight outside. If they finish “going” outside, give them lots of praise and
treats so they understand that you want them to do their business there.

Source: https://dogtime.com/dog-health/general/360-housetraining-for-adults

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 30
Crate Training
New Collar Collective encourages all our Foster Volunteers to crate their foster
dogs at night and when leaving the dog home alone. If after two weeks you
feel confident about your foster dog’s behaviour and are comfortable doing so,
you may start testing short periods of leaving them outside their crate. Please
note that New Collar Collective is not responsible for any damages caused by
a foster dog.

You will be provided with a crate each time you foster with us unless you
have graciously offered to provide your own! Whether you have your own
crate or will be using one provided by New Collar Collective, please ensure
the crate is properly fitted for your foster dog. A crate that is too large can
encourage soiling, and a crate that is too small will be very uncomfortable,
possibly introducing a negative association. A general rule of thumb is that
the dog should be able to sit, stand up, turn around and lay down with ease -
but no more than that. Our supplies team does the best they can to ensure a
proper fit, but this is typically based on weight estimates that can vary widely. If
you think the crate you’ve received is too small or too large for your foster dog,
please email supplies@newcollar.co with a picture of your foster dog inside or
beside their crate and the dimensions of the current crate so we can gauge
what size would be best.

It is common for dogs to come into foster care who are not crate-trained just
yet - but that is where you come in! While some dogs may initially dislike their
crate, most can be trained to see it as a place where good things happen - it
should never be used as punishment.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 31
The good news is that crate training is typically very teachable and many dogs
take to it quickly. Teaching your foster dog to see their crate as a safe space is
important for many reasons; it helps curb chewing behaviours, it compliments
potty training and it’s also the safest way to transport your dog in a vehicle
and/or a stressful situation. Furthermore, crate-training your foster dog may
be seen as a benefit to potential adoptive families and may help them get
adopted quicker. Your dog foster should never be crated for more than nine
hours during the day.

Here are some excellent steps provided by the U.S. Humane Society:

1. Introduce your dog to the crate


Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time,
such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the
door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be
naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn’t one of
them:
• Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make
sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won’t hit your dog and
frighten them.
• Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats
nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If
they refuse to go all the way in at first, that’s OK; don’t force them to enter.
• Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all
the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try
tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as
long as several days.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 32
2. Feed your dog in the crate
After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals
near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.
• If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the
food dish all the way at the back of the crate.
• If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will
readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them,
place the dish a little further back in the crate.
• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you
can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the
door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave
the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10
minutes or so after eating.
• If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of
time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time
period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop.
Otherwise, they’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so
they’ll keep doing it.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 33
3. Practice with longer crating periods
After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or
anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you’re home.
• Call them over to the crate and give them a treat.
• Give them a command to enter, such as “kennel.” Encourage them by
pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.
• After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat, and close
the door.
• Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another
room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let
them out of the crate.
• Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of
time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you’re out of sight.
• Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you
mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you’re gone
for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take
several days or weeks.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 34
4A. Crate your dog when you leave
After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious
or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the
house.
• Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also
want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate.
• Vary the moment during your “getting ready to leave” routine that you put your
dog in the crate. Although they shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you
leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
• Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-
of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate, and then
leave quietly.

When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behaviour by
responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid
increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog
for short periods from time to time when you’re home so they doesn’t associate
crating with being left alone.

4B. Crate your dog at night


Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may
be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially
if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the
night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let
outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so they don’t associate
the crate with social isolation.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 35
Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near
you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although
time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the
bond between you and your pet.

Is this Separation Anxiety?


While most dogs will take to crate training with consistency, persistence, and
patience, it’s important to know the difference between the normal hurdles of
learning and the more challenging problem of separation anxiety. Although
it can be concerning, it is common for a dog to whine or bark when you put
them in the crate, however, most dogs will settle after 30 minutes or so. If this
behaviour lasts several hours, you may have a dog with separation anxiety
(SA). Other common signs include excessive drooling or panting, destructive
behaviour, urinating/defecating, trying to escape, stress licking/nibbling and
pacing. If you are following the steps listed above but these behaviours
continue, reach out to your Foster Coordinator for support.

Here are a few other tips you can try:


• Take your foster dog for a LONG walk before being crated.
• Leave music or the TV on as background noise.
• Cover their crate with a blanket but ensure proper air flow is maintained.
• Leave a stuffed, frozen kong in their crate for some mental stimulation and
to keep them busy. It helps if this is the only time they get this treat!
• Download a dog monitoring app (https://www.dogmonitorapp.
com/ or https://barkio.com/en). These apps typically notify you when your
dog is barking and it’s a good way to see their behaviour when you aren’t
physically there. New Collar Collective does not provide dog monitoring
hardware (i.e. Furbo/Wyze), though you are welcome to purchase these
things if you would like.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 36
Chapter Three : Foster Cat Gu idelines and Polici es

Preparing Your Home for Your Foster Cat’s Arrival


It’s important to make plans for your foster cat’s arrival before you pick them
up. Prepare a ‘special area’ for your foster cat - you may want to confine them
to a small room at first, such as a bathroom, before you let them roam your
home freely. Creating a cozy place for them to sleep and hide when they’re
feeling unsure will give them a sense of security. Place their food and water
bowls, as well as their litter box, in that space initially, and consider where you
will keep it once they are allowed in the rest of your home. It’s important to
ensure the foster cat’s food, water and litter box are in places they can get to
with easy and use in comfort, but also in a space which isn’t accessible to your
resident dog if you have one (some dogs see the litter box as a cookie jar!).

Foster Cat Supplies


Foster cats will be supplied with a carrier, tagged collar, food, litter, scooper
and litter box. As we rely on donations, we may have items such as beds,
bowls, treats and toys available. Some Foster Volunteers choose to feed their
foster cat food they purchase on their own. That is not a problem and, as we
are reliant on donations, greatly appreciated. If you do purchase your own
food, please choose one of good quality.

Before returning your foster cat supplies to us, please ensure you either bleach
or use a strong disinfectant to thoroughly clean both the litter box and scooper.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 37
Cat-Proof Your Home
Before bringing your foster cat home, you will want to make sure your home is
cat-proofed. Remove anything that could be unsafe or undesirable for the cat
to chew on, jump on or knock down!

Some tips for cat-proofing:


• Make sure garbage cans have secure lids or are kept somewhere
inaccessible.
• Remove or tuck away anything that’s string-like or dangling - this is too
enticing for a cat not to play with (i.e. electrical cords, clothing items, plants
with vines, curtain/blind pulls, towels with loose strings, etc.).
• Keep toilet lids shut.
• Remove any medications, lotions, cosmetics, cleaning products and toxic
items from the cat’s reach.
• Get down low and check under tables, couches and other furniture for items
that may have fallen (i.e. loose pills, buttons, nuts, hardware, etc.).
• Remove valuables from tables and shelves that could be knocked down.
• Move plants out of reach, as many are toxic to cats.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 38
Introducing a Foster Cat to Your Resident Dog
Introducing your resident dog to a foster cat needs to be done slowly and
carefully. First, allow the cat to decompress in its designated ‘special area’, as
mentioned above. Next, let your dog sniff the cat from a distance or through a
doorway, but do not allow them to meet just yet. When you feel ready to make the
introduction (this may take several days), have your dog leashed and allow the
foster cat to step out of their ‘special area’.

Try to keep your dog entertained (have treats or a toy on hand), so they do not
charge at the cat and frighten them. Watch their body language and discontinue
the interaction if any signs of aggression or over-stimulation become apparent. If
your dog lunges, barks, or growls at the cat, attempt to correct and redirect their
behavior immediately. Keep encounters brief for the first few days and watch how
the animals are interacting with each other. Indifference is good and means the
animals can co-exist!

A cat may swat at a dog to warn that they do not want to interact; this is a signal
that your dog should be encouraged to listen to by leaving the cat alone. Just as
dogs need to work out their relationships with other dogs, your dog and foster cat
will need some time to figure out how they will interact with each other.

Introducing a Foster Cat to Your Resident Cat


Be prepared to work on introductions between cats gradually, as they can be
territorial! Swapping blankets between their respective areas is a good way to get
them used to each other’s scent.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 39
When you feel ready to make the introduction, use a doorway or baby gate to
create a barrier which allows the cats to sniff and eventually see each other. If
they seem comfortable, you can allow them to meet while observing closely.
If there are any signs of aggression, separate them and give them some time
before trying again. Be patient as this can take some time; just because they
don’t figure it out within the first few days, doesn’t mean they will never be able
to co-exist. A squirt bottle filled with water is helpful to deter fights.

Introducing a Foster Cat to Your Children


New Collar Collective believes that fostering a rescue animal is an opportunity
that should be open to families with children four years and older. As a parent
it is your responsibility to ensure that your children are aware of how to
appropriately interact with your foster cat, and to provide proper supervision.
Before your foster cat comes home, talk with your family about what the foster
animal needs from them – especially when they first arrive.

Let them know that the animal may be scared, nervous, tired, or overwhelmed.
Some easy tips include being calm and quiet, not jumping around or making
sudden movements, not sitting on or being rough with the animal, and
not putting their face directly in front of the animal. Please review the “Cat
Language” poster on page 44.

What to Expect the First Night and the First Week


Settling into a new home is a big change for a foster cat and it’s important
to keep things low key. It is a time for the cat to adjust to your home and the
people who live there and not the time to have lots of visitors and excitement
in their new environment.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 40
Cats typically want to hide when brought into a new space and can take a while to
come out of their shell, so you’ll just need to practice some patience. They will be
confused and unsure, so it is important not to overwhelm them by forcing physical
contact. Cats are very fast and are experts at finding places to hide where they
are out of your reach. If you want to ensure they stay in the area you’ve prepared
for them, keep the door closed whether you’re inside the space or not. If you
don’t have resident pets in the home, you may allow the cat to roam around at
their leisure within the first day or couple of days depending on how well they’re
adapting.

If your foster cat is showing signs of being particularly skittish or scared, ignore
them while they are exploring your home. They should eventually warm up,
but take it slow with physical contact and listen to them when they are saying
no. Often times a good way to turn your hands from being big scary objects to
affectionate love givers is by calmly and slowing introducing petting while a cat is
enjoying a particularly tasty meal such as wet food, or by trying to hand feed them.
But human safety always comes first, so be careful when using these methods.

Litter Box Training


When you bring your foster cat into your home, you want to show them where the
litter box is by placing them inside of it almost immediately. If they will allow it, take
both of their front paws and gently make a digging motion into the litter. If not, no
problem, as cats tend to take to the litter box quickly and training is relatively easy.

Make sure your foster cat’s litter box is as inviting as possible. It should be placed
in a quiet area, scooped out once daily and completely replaced once per week,
or every two weeks. If it’s smelling bad even after you’ve scooped out all the
goods and let it air out, it’s time for it to be replaced.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 41
Feeding Your Foster Cat
Cats generally need to be fed twice per day; the amount will depend on their
weight and age. If you are feeding your foster cat wet food in addition to dry,
don’t mix the two together and instead give the wet food only in the morning
or at night at the same time each day. Many cats commonly graze throughout
the day so feel free to leave their dry food out if they don’t finish the serving in
one sitting. If you are switching brands of food, it’s a good idea to mix food half
and half for a few days before switching to the new brand altogether. Access
to fresh, clean water is always needed (and they may try to sneak a couple sips
from your water glass – so watch out!).

Enrichment for Your Foster Cat


We recommend having one or two play sessions per day with your foster
cat. Try different types of toys and see what they like best (i.e. feather toys,
squeaky toys filled with catnip, a ball, fake mouse). Some cheap and simple
options are cardboard boxes, paper bags, a crumpled-up piece of paper, or the
classic dangling-string.

Lost Cat Prevention  


While all Foster Volunteers have already
agreed to never allow their foster cats
outside, it’s important to remember that
cats are tiny ninjas​who will slip past you
any chance they get, just because they
like to see you panic. They also excel at
jumping through windows and scaling
buildings if the opportunity arises.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 42
While you have a foster cat in your care, it is imperative that all outside
doors (including balconies) and windows in your home remain CLOSED unless
there is a secured and undamaged screen present. While you may think
that small tear in the screen will not be an issue, you may be surprised by the
tiny crevices your foster cat will be able to squeeze through. Foster cats are not
permitted to be on balconies.

When opening your outside doors, please be very aware of your surroundings and
ensure your foster cat is nowhere near. Your foot will not be enough to hold them
back if they attempt an escape.

Foster cats should always be secured in a carrier when outside of your home and
in your vehicle. Please do not allow your foster cat to free-roam in your vehicle.

Each foster cat will be supplied a collar with a New Collar Collective ID tag. Should
your foster cat succeed at escaping your home and you are not able to
immediately retrieve them, please contact the phone number on the tag promptly.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 43
w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 44
Chapter Four: Foster Health

Vetting
As New Collar Collective is responsible for our foster animals’ wellbeing, our
team must authorize all medical care and treatments for them and only at our
partner veterinary clinics. We will share any health concerns that we are made
aware of by our shelter partners, however, some conditions may only become
apparent once the animal has come into your care or settled in.

Our vetting team will match your foster animal with a vet in our network and
provide you with the information required to make an appointment; we ask
that you do so within two weeks of the animal coming into our care. All vetting
costs will be covered by New Collar Collective, however, missed appointment
charges will be your responsibility. Please keep in mind that we are working
hard to build relationships with our partner vet clinics and when fosters miss
appointments, or act rudely toward them, it can hurt our ability to maintain
these partnerships, which puts future animals in jeopardy.

If you suspect that your foster animal needs to see a veterinarian, please email
your Foster and Vetting Coordinators as soon as possible. The vetting team will
schedule the appointment for you at your assigned partner vet, or ask you to
call them directly to schedule. Do not take your foster animal to a vet without
approval from an authorized representative of New Collar Collective. We will
not guarantee reimbursement of the expenses you incur if you seek veterinary
care without our approval.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 45
Some signs that your foster animal may need to see a veterinary:
• Pale or discoloured gums.
• Blood present when sneezing or coughing.
• Excessive bleeding at incision site or in urine or stool.
• Continuous vomiting or uncontrollable diarrhea.
• Diarrhea that lasts more than two days.
• Severe dehydration (i.e. tenting of the skin, weakness, lethargy).
• Ceases to eat for more than 24 hours.
• Yellow or greenish eye or nose discharge.
• If your foster cat demonstrates behaviour where they press their head
against a wall continuously, please call the emergency number on the collar
immediately – this is a sign that something is severely wrong and likely a
life-threatening situation.

If your foster animal demonstrates any other symptoms that seem concerning,
don’t hesitate to contact your Foster and Vetting Coordinators.

Emergency Procedures
Just like people, cats and dogs can sometimes get sick or have accidents. Your
foster animal will have our emergency
number on its tag. Please keep this
number saved in your phone. If your
foster animal needs emergency medical
attention, becomes lost or if there’s an
urgent incident, please call it immediately.
A good rule of thumb is if you would call
911 for a person in a similar situation,
emergency care may be required for your
foster animal.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 46
Before you bring your foster animal home, find out where the closest 24-hr vet
clinic is to your home. Should your foster animal require immediate medical
attention, please contact us on our emergency number. We may direct you to
bring your foster animal to one of our partner vet clinics, however, depending
on the urgency of the situation, you may be directed to head to the closest vet
emergency clinic.

Emergency Kit
It’s helpful to have an emergency kit on hand. Below are some common items that
can be useful in case of a pet emergency. These will not be supplied to you, but
we encourage you to have them available.

• Bandage wrap
• Hydrogen Peroxide/Saline (check the expiry)
• Q-tips and cotton pads
• Polysporin
• Silver Spray
• Tweezers
• Gauze
• Kwik-Stop or other styptic powder

Hazardous Foods
We recommend not feeding your foster any food scraps from your table. Doing so
can lead to digestive issues, weight gain and increased begging behaviour. If your
foster eats anything that can be harmful to them, please follow the emergency
procedures detailed on pg. 46.

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 47
Additional Resources:
https://ontariospca.ca/blog/people-food-to-avoid-feeding-pets/
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/people-foods-avoid-
feeding-your-pets

w w w . n e w c o l l a r. c o 48
Hazardous Plants
It is important to remember that even “safe” plants can cause digestion issues if
ingested. If you are not sure what kind of plant you have, there are phone apps or
“tools” like google lens that can help you identify a plant. When in doubt, put the
plant in an area inaccessible to your foster – remember that cats can get to high
areas and counter tops you may think they cannot reach.

Common plants that may be toxic to cats and dogs – this is not an exhaustive list:

• Lilies • Autumn Crocus


• Marijuana • Chrysanthemum
• Sago Palm • English Ivy
• Tulip/Narcissus bulbs • Peace Lily
• Azalea/Rhododendron • Dieffenbachia
• Oleander • Pothos
• Castor Bean • Schefflera
• Cyclamen • Aloe
• Kalanchoe • Iris
• Yew • Peony
• Mums • Daffodil
• Amaryllis • Foxglove

Additional Resources:
https://ontariospca.ca/?s=toxic+plants
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/dogs-plant-list
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/cats-plant-list

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Essential Oils - What you Should Consider
Many people enjoy using essential oils in their homes - either directly on the
skin, in diffusers or in a bath. Some essential oils may be toxic to dogs and
cats, and it can be difficult to discern which are safe to use and which are not
as a lot depends on application method (direct to skin, diffused) and dosage.
For this reason, New Collar Collective strongly recommends that fosters do not
use essential oils while fostering.

Additional Resources:
https://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/pet-safety-tips/essential-oils-dogs/
https://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/blog/essential-oils-cats/
https://www.aspca.org/news/latest-home-trend-harmful-your-pets-what-you-
need-know

If you would like to learn more about possible pet-friendly essential oils:
https://www.newdirectionsaromatics.com/blog/products/petfriendly-essential-
oils.html

Common Household Poisons

• Mouse and Rat Poisons • Stimulants (e.g., for ADD/ADHD)


• Household Cleaners • Fertilizers
• Anti-inflammatory medications • Antifreeze
• Antidepressant Medications • For cats - Spot-on flea/tick
• Acetaminophen (e.g., Tylenol) medication for dogs
• Vitamin D Overdose

Additional Resources:
www.petpoisonhelpline.com/poisons/

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Chapter Five : Prepari ng for Adoption

Prepare to Let Go
The day you give your foster animal over to their new family can be full
of mixed emotions so it’s important that all members of the household be
mentally prepared to let go when they get adopted. Even those of us who have
been doing this for years still shed a tear or go through a period of readjusting
back to normal life, but it is something that gets easier over time, trust us! If you
have children, it can help to talk to them beforehand and throughout the time
the foster animal is in your home about why we do this work, and how happy it
is for an animal to find a loving, forever family.

Feeling all the Feelings?


Many Foster Volunteers grow very attached to their foster animal and start
to feel like they may want to adopt them. It’s important to ask yourself if now
is the right time to add a new member to your family. If the answer is yes –
perfect. As an approved foster, the process is a bit shorter, but you still need to
fill out an adoption application and speak with an Adoption Coordinator. If now
is not the right time for you to adopt, know that you are playing an important
part in your foster animal’s journey.

Our adoption team won’t match our rescue animals to a potential adopter until
two weeks after they have arrived so there is sufficient time to learn about
them and allow them time to decompress. This can also provide you with an
opportunity to decide if you want to apply to adopt. Please note that, after the
initial two-week hold, if another application is received ahead of yours, it will be
reviewed first.

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Help Get Your Foster Animal Adopted
After one week of having your foster animal in your care, we will email you a
behavioural form to fill out. It will ask specific questions regarding their energy
level, personality, any quirks they may have and much more! Our team will then
create an adoption bio based on your answers. It’s important that you fill this
form out in as much detail as possible (the good and the bad) as our Adoption
Coordinators use this information to make the best match possible. The more
accurate and detailed your answers are, the better the chance that your foster
animal will get matched to their perfect family.

In addition to the behavioural form, we highly encourage our Foster Volunteers


to use social media platforms to get their animals adopted! These platforms
allow your foster animal to reach a wider audience of potential adopters than
just our website alone. New Collar Collective is very active on Instagram, and
we find that Instagram posts and stories get the most traction for our animals -
though all platforms are welcome. The more creative, quirky, and high quality
your post is, the more likely it is to catch a potential adopter’s eye, and always
remember to include their name and tag us!

If you’re posting your foster animal on Instagram, please note we won’t be


able to see it unless your account is public. If you have a private account you
can either create a public account for your foster, send a photo via DM, or post
your photos to our Foster and Volunteer Facebook group.

Another great way to help get your foster animal adopted is by attending New
Collar Collective events whenever possible. This increases their exposure
and will give them a chance at a great photo op! We will also schedule photo
shoots and encourage you to fill a spot as professional photography increases
your foster animals’ chances of getting adopted.

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Meeting Potential Adopters
Inquiries about adopting your foster animal should be directed to the New
Collar Collective website. All adoption applicants will go through a phone
interview, reference checks and a home visit. Once a suitable applicant has
been matched to your foster animal, we will email you to arrange a meet and
greet with their potential forever family!

For dogs, we recommend you meet the adoption applicant at a public location
close to you, preferably a park that your foster dog is familiar with and is quiet
enough for them to interact with the applicant without distractions. For cats, the
potential family will have to come to your home.

We ask that you answer the applicant’s questions as best you can. If there
are any behavioural or health concerns that you are unsure how to address,
please reach out to a coordinator, but it’s best to be truthful and honest. Let
them know about your foster’s quirks, what challenges they’ve overcome since
they’ve been in your care, and what you love about them.

After the meet and greet, we ask that you submit your feedback to the
adoption team within 24 hours. We take all feedback into consideration.

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I’m Fosteri ng a Rescue Animal - A Letter for
your Neighbours

Bringing a new foster animal into your home can be a fun and exciting time
for you and your family. But sometimes your new canine guest may come
with some new noises that your neighbours may not be used to or appreciate
hearing. It can be helpful to give them advance notice that you will be fostering
a dog to help ease the transition as your foster dog settles into your home.
Sending your neighbours a quick text or dropping off the note below may help
keep your friendly neighbour vibes going strong.

Hi Neighbour!

I’m going to be welcoming a foster dog into my home in the next few
days through New Collar Collective. I’m very excited to be a part of this
rescue dog’s journey to find their forever home.

There may be times when you hear barking or crying coming from my
home and I wanted to make sure you knew what was going on.

You can reach me at ________________________ if there is ever a


problem.

Cheers,

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