Top 10 San Francisco (DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TOP 10
SAN FRANCISCO
10
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10 Liveliest bars & clubs

10 Great walks & itineraries
10 Best places to stay for every budget
10 Day trips in the Bay Area
10 Shops, malls & markets
10 Insider tips for every visitor
YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

TOP 10
SAN
FRANCISCO
JEFFREY KENNEDY
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Contents
Left San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Right Surfers, Pacific Ocean
Contents
San Francisco’s Top 10
Golden Gate Bridge 8
Produced by Sargasso Media Ltd, London
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and
Cable Cars 10
bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China
First American Edition, 2003
Fisherman’s Wharf 12
10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Alcatraz 14
375 Hudson Street,
New York, New York 10014 Chinatown 18
Reprinted with revisions 2004, 2006,
2007, 2008, 2009, 2010
Copyright 2003, 2010 © Dorling Kindersley
Golden Gate Park 20
Limited
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under
Grace Cathedral 24
copyright reserved above, no part of this publication
may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a
retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by
San Francisco
any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording, or otherwise), without the prior written Museum of Modern Art 26
permission of both the copyright owner and the
above publisher of this book. Published in Great Mission Dolores 30
Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited
A catalog record for this book is available from the
Library of Congress
The Wine Country 32
ISSN 1479-344X
ISBN 978-0-75666-068-0
Moments in History 36
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the
Historic Sites 38
editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit.
Museums 40
Art Galleries 42
Churches 44
Architectural Highlights 46
Parks and Gardens 48
The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of
going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers
cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for
any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of
our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL.
JACKET: Front – Alamy Images: Picture Colour Library clb; SuperStock: age fotostock main. Spine – DK
Images: Neil Lukas b. Back – DK Images: cr; Neil Lukas cl; Andrew McKinney c.
2
Contents
Left View from Nob Hill Right Dining out
Stores & Around Town

Shopping Centers 50
Writers 52 Downtown 82
Eccentric & The North Shoreline 92

Noteworthy Characters 54
Performing Arts Venues 56 Central Neighborhoods 98
Children’s Attractions 58
Southern Neighborhoods 106
Scenic Drives 60
Restaurants 62 Oceanfront 114
Cafés 64
The Bay Area 122
Bars 66
Gay & Lesbian Venues 68
Nightlife 70 Streetsmart
Outdoor Activities 72 Practical Information 132
Festivals & Parades 74
Places to Stay 142
Beaches 76
Day Trips 78 General Index 150
Left Golden Gate Bridge Right Japanese Tea Garden, Golden Gate Park
Key to abbreviations 3
Adm admission charge Free no admission charge Dis. access disabled access
SAN
FRANCISCO’S
TOP 10
San Francisco’s
SAN FRANCISCO’S TOP 10

Highlights
6–7
Golden Gate Bridge
8–9
Cable Cars
10–11
Fisherman’s Wharf
12–13
Alcatraz
14–17
Chinatown
18–19
Golden Gate Park
20–23
Grace Cathedral
24–25
San Francisco
Museum of Modern Art
26–29
Mission Dolores
30–31
The Wine Country
32–35
Top Ten of Everything
36–79
San Francisco’s Highlights
San Franciscans will, rather candidly, admit that they are the most fortunate
people on earth, the occasional earthquake notwithstanding; and most visitors,
after a few days of taking in the sights and sounds of this magnificent city, will
agree. Ask anyone who has been here and they will tell you it’s their favorite
US city. The geographical setting evokes so much emotional drama, the light
seems clearer, the colors more vivid, the cultural diversity of the ethnic
neighborhoods so captivating and inviting, that it’s a place
almost everyone can fall in love with at first sight.
Golden Gate
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urban life (see pp10–11).
$ Alcatraz
Although it was a federal prison for
just under 30 years, the myth of “The
Rock” continues to capture the imagina-
tion of visitors. Even if exploring prison
life holds no appeal, the ferry ride makes
it well worth a visit (see pp14–17).
£ Fisherman’s Wharf
Despite rampant tourism and
commercialization, the saltiness and
authenticity are still to be found here
if you take time to look. The views of
the bay are unmatched, and you’ll have
an opportunity to try great seafood and
see barking sea lions (see pp12–13).
6 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com

& Grace Cathedral
Dominating Nob Hill
with its timeless beauty,
San Francisco’s favorite
cathedral offers a host of
awe-inspiring and historic

^ Golden Gate Park treasures, including Italian
% Chinatown
The exotic feel of
The city boasts one
of the largest public parks
Renaissance master-
pieces and stained-glass
one of the world’s in the world, with windows (see pp24–5).
largest Chinese commu- natural beauty and fine
nities outside of Asia museums (see pp20–23).
makes this a magnet for
locals and visitors alike
(see pp18–19).
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Second only to New York
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3HDNV Art, San Francisco’s
architectural landmark
houses 20th-century
masterworks of painting,
sculpture, and
photography, and the
edgiest digital installa-
tions (see pp26–9).
Mission Dolores
The city’s oldest (
The Wine Country building is also the only
) So internationally intact chapel among the
recognized have the 21 California missions
wines from this region that Father Junipero
become that French, Serra founded in the late
Italian, and Spanish 18th century. Its found-
winemakers have all ing just days before the
established vineyards Declaration of Indepen-
here. A day trip or a dence makes San
longer stay shouldn’t be Francisco older than the
missed (see pp32–5). US (see pp30–31).
7
Golden Gate Bridge
As with most of the world’s wonders, many said that the Golden Gate Bridge
could never be built – the span was too wide, the ocean too powerful and
deep, and the cost too great. But to many more, the Golden Gate, the name
John Fremont gave the splendid strait in 1844 (see p39), demanded the
realization of its dream bridge. In 1872, railroad tycoon Charles Crocker first
conceived the idea, but it took a visionary engineer, Joseph Strauss, to put
forth a realistic proposal in 1921. After 10 years of opposition from all
quarters, funding was finally secured from A.P. Giannini, founder of the Bank
of America (see p39). The bridge opened in
1937, and has been an emblem of San Francisco
and America’s icon on the Pacific ever since.
Top 10 Features
1 Deco Style
2 Maintenance
3 Fort Point Lookout
4 Marin Vista Point
Marin Vista Point
5 Star Turns in Movies
For a uniquely 6 Protective Barriers
powerful view of the 7 Building the Bridge
bridge while 8 Bridge Celebrations
enjoying a Sunday 9 Hiking and Biking
champagne brunch,
0 Toll System
opt for one of the
many cruises on the
Bay, departing from
the Embarcadero Pier
! Deco Style
The bridge owes its
and Sausalito. striking style to the con-
Excellent purveyors sulting architects Irving
are Signature Yacht F. Morrow and his wife
Events (415-788-9100, Gertrude. They simplified
www.signaturesf.
the pedestrian railings to
uniform posts placed far
com), and Seaward
enough apart to allow an
(415-331-3214,
unobstructed view.
www.callofthesea.
org).
• Map C1
• (415) 921-5858
£ Fort Point Lookout
On the city side stands
an 1861 fort (below). This
• www.goldengate.org
spot provides a view of the
• Cruises operate
soaring underside of the
Mar–Oct
structure and the pounding
waters of the ocean.
@ Maintenance
Repairing and
painting the bridge
(above) is an ongoing
task. The paint protects it
from the high salt content
in the air, which corrodes
the steel components.
8 The orange color was actually the original rust-proof undercoat,

but it complements the natural setting so well that it was kept.
$ Marin Vista Point
Crossing from the
San Francisco side, pull
off just before you reach
the end of the bridge and
take in the startling pano-

rama from the specially
constructed Vista Point
and look back at the hills
and spires of the city. If ^ Protective
Barriers ) Toll System
Beginning May 28,
there’s fog, note how the The Golden Gate Bridge 1937, the toll to cross the
bridge’s tower tops is the number one spot bridge was 50 cents each
disappear in the mist. in the world for suicides. way, with a 5-cent charge
As yet there are no effec- if a car had more than
tive preventative barriers three passengers. The
but there are bars (above) toll is currently $5 per
for general safety. vehicle, only charged to
city-bound traffic (below).
& Building
Bridge
the
Joseph Strauss intro-

duced the use of hard
hats, goggles, and safety
belts for the first time, as
well as a vast safety net
under the bridge, which
saved 19 workers.
The Statistics
The length of the steel
wires used to make the
cables of the bridge is
enough to circle the
earth three times. It is
also brilliantly “over-
engineered” and is said
to be five times
stronger than it needs
to be to withstand the
winds and tides it
endures daily. At the
time it was built, it was
the longest suspension
bridge in the world (it
still ranks seventh) and
% Star Turns in
Movies * Bridge
Celebrations
took just over four years
to build. More than 41
The bridge has starred in The bridge opened on million vehicles cross
many movies, most May 28, 1937, with some the bridge annually,
notably Alfred 200,000 pedestrians. streaming across six
Hitchcock’s Vertigo, in Fifty years later, on May lanes of traffic, along its
which James Stewart 24, 1987, the ritual was 1.7-mile (2.7-km) length.
pulls Kim Novak from the repeated with about The bridge is equipped
raging surf, just east of 300,000 people (above). with two foghorns, each
Fort Point (see p53). In with a different pitch,
the James Bond movie,
A View To A Kill, Grace ( Hiking and Biking
No visit to San
and 360-degree flashing
red beacons. The bridge
Jones and 007 battle it Francisco would be has been closed due to
out, both of them complete without a walk high winds only three
clinging to the bridge’s or bike-ride across at times in its history.
aerial heights. least part of the bridge.
Pedestrians may access the east sidewalk 5am–9pm 9

daily. In-line skaters and skateboards are not allowed.
Cable Cars
It’s impossible not to love these sturdy little vestiges of another age, as they
valiantly make their merry yet determined way up the city’s precipitous hills.
Yet these San Francisco icons came perilously close to being completely
scrapped in 1947, when a “progressive” mayor announced it was time for

buses to take their place. An outraged citizenry, under the leadership of
“cable car vigilante” Mrs. Friedell Klussman, eventually prevailed, and the
whole system was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1964. In the
early 1980s, the tracks, cables, power plant, and cars all underwent a
massive $60-million overhaul and retrofit. The present service covers some
12 miles (19 km) and utilizes about 40 cars.
Top 10 Features
1 Cars
2 Bell
3 Grip Person
4 Conductor
Cable car route 5 Cables
Rather than wait in 6 Braking
the long lines at a 7 Cable Car Museum
cable car terminus, 8 Riding Styles
do what the locals 9 Turntables
do and walk up a 0 Routes
stop or two, where
you can hop on right
away – then hold on! ! Cars
Cable cars come in
two types: one with a
The $5.00 fare is for turnaround system, one
one ride, one without. All are numbered,
direction only, and have wood and brass fit-
there are no tings in the 19th-century
style, and are often
transfers. Consider
painted in differing colors.
getting a CityPass or
a Muni Passport for
one day ($11) or £ Grip Person
The grip person (below)
longer (see p134). must be quick-thinking, and
strong to operate the heavy
• Cable Car Museum: gripping levers and braking
1201 Mason St, at mechanisms. The grip is like
Washington; Map M3; a huge pair of pliers that
(415) 474-1887; clamps onto the cable to
www.cablecar pull the car along.
museum.org; Open
Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm
daily; Oct–Mar:
10am–5pm daily; Free @ Bell
During the course of
operation up and down
the busy hills, the cable
car’s bell (above) is used
by the grip person like a
claxon, to warn other
vehicles and pedestrians
of imminent stops, starts,
and turns.
10 Every grip person develops their own signature ring on the car’s
bell, and a ringing contest is held every July in Union Square.
$ Conductor
The conductor not ( Turntables
Part of the fun of
only collects fares, but cable-car lore is being
also makes sure that there to watch when the
everyone travels safely, grip person and conduc-
and that the grip person tor turn their car around

has room to do his job. for the return trip. The
best view is at Powell
% Cables
The underground
and Market streets (left).
cables are 1.25 inches (3

cm) in diameter and con- ) Routes
The three existing
sist of six steel strands routes cover the Financial
of 19 wires each, wrap- District, Nob Hill (below),
ped around a rope, which Chinatown, North Beach,
acts as a shock absorber. Russian Hill, and Fisher-
man’s Wharf areas. As
these are always impor-
tant destinations for
visitors – and for many
residents, too – most
people find that a cable
car ride will be practical
as well as pleasurable.
Cable Cars and

Streetcars
Wire rope manufacturer
Andrew Hallidie’s cable
car system dates from
August 2, 1873, when
^ Braking
There are three * Riding Styles
There is a choice of
he tested his prototype
based on mining cars. It
braking mechanisms. sitting inside a glassed-in was an immediate
Wheel brakes press compartment, sitting on success and spawned
against the wheels; track outside wooden benches, imitators in more than a
brakes press against the or hanging onto poles dozen cities worldwide.
tracks when the grip and standing on the However, 20 years later,
person pulls a lever; running board (above). the system was set to
while the emergency The third gives you the be replaced by the
brake is a steel wedge sights, sounds, and electric streetcar.
forced into the rail slot. smells of San Francisco Fortunately, resistance
at their most enticing. to above-ground wires,
Cable Car
Museum & corruption in City Hall,
and finally the 1906
Downstairs, look at the earthquake sidetracked
giant sheaves (wheels), those plans. The cable
that keep the cables car was kept for the
moving throughout the steepest lines, while
system; upstairs are the streetcar took over
displays of the earliest the longer, flatter routes.
cable cars (right).
The cables, which cost at least $20,000 each, must be replaced 11

every two to three months due to the terrific wear and tear.
Fisherman’s Wharf
A certain aura of authenticity still clings to San Francisco’s old wharf area,
but you’ll have to look closely to find the historic details – mostly, it has been
overwhelmed by tourism. Nevertheless, it’s fun to get a walkaway crab cock-
tail and a chunk of sourdough bread, and to sidestep the crowds to check out
the few remaining fishing boats that still haul in their daily bounty. And after
all, what’s so bad about taking home a few San Francisco souvenirs?
Top 10 Sights
1 Ghirardelli Square
2 Anchorage Shopping
Center
3 The Cannery
Fisherman’s Wharf sign
4 Pier 39
Try one of the Wharf’s 5 USS Pampanito
oldest institutions, 6 Fisherman’s and Seaman’s
Scoma’s (Pier 47 & Memorial Chapel
Alcona Way; 415 771-
7 Fish Alley
4383), for seafood.
8 Aquarium of the Bay
• Map J3 • Anchorage 9 Boudin Bakery
Shopping Center: 2800 0 Ripley’s Believe it or Not!
Leavenworth St; (415) and Wax Museum
771-6000; www.
anchoratthewharf.com
• USS Pampanito: Pier
45, Jefferson St; (415) ! Ghirardelli
Square
775-1943; www. The Ghirardelli family ran
maritime.org; Open sum- a chocolate factory here
mer: 9am–8pm, 9am– from 1859 to 1962. The
6pm Sun; winter: 9am– site (below) is now home
6pm Mon–Thu, 9am to upscale shops and
–8pm Fri–Sat; Adm $9 eateries (see pp96–7).
• Ripley’s Believe It Or
Not!: 175 Jefferson St;
(415) 771-6188; www. $ Pier 39
Built over a disused pier,
ripleysf.com; Open mid- this 1978 commercial venture
Jun–Labor Day: 9am– became an instant success
11pm Sun–Thu, 9am– for promoting tourism in the
midnight Fri–Sat; rest of wharf area (below). Two
year: 10am–10pm Sun– floors of shops and eateries,
Thu, 10am–midnight Fri– with a large central
Sat; Adm $8.99–$14.99 Anchorage promenade complete with an
• Wax Museum: 145 @ Shopping Center antique Venetian carousel,
Jefferson St; 1 (800) 439- In the heart of Fisherman’s keep drawing in the crowds.
4305, (415) 202-0402; Wharf, with plenty of
Open 10am–9pm daily; stores, restaurants, and
Adm $6.95–$12.95 entertainment.
• Aquarium of the Bay:
Embarcadero; 1-888-
SEA-DIVE; Open £ The Cannery
Built as a warehouse
summer: 9am–8pm in 1907, a makeover was
daily; winter: 10am–6pm completed in 1967, and
Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm it’s now the site of some
Sat–Sun; Adm appealing boutiques, as
well as tourist shops.
12 Don’t miss the pod of wild sea lions that lounge around the docks
just to the west of Pier 39.

67
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USS Pampanito
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sank six enemy ships and damaged
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7
four others in World War II. You can
tour its interior and get an idea of
what life was like for the crew. Plan of Fisherman’s Wharf
( Boudin Bakery
This is the home of
the famous chain of San
Francisco sourdough
breadmakers. Stop by to
try the distinctive crusty
round loaf, best enjoyed
warm from the oven with
plenty of butter.
) Ripley’s Believe It
Or Not! and Wax
Museum
These fun-zone denizens
(below) – found as
“attractions” around the
world – are a give-away
that these blocks of
Jefferson Street are pure
tourist trap.
The Port of San

^ Fisherman’s
Seaman’s
and
* Aquarium
of the Bay Francisco
Memorial Chapel The aquarium’s trans- In 1853 the first wharf
This little wooden chapel parent tunnel visually was built here, and it
was built in 1980 as an immerses you in the San quickly became a center
interfaith memorial to all Francisco Bay marine for maritime-related
those who make and have habitat, where thousands enterprise, including
made their living at sea. of members of diverse shipbuilding, and fresh
ocean fauna disport seafood joints. Italians
Fish Alley themselves before your
This alley (right) is& eyes. Video presentations
soon monopolized
almost every aspect of
possibly the last vestige and marine specialists the fishing industry –
of the authentic, help you understand even today, most of the
workaday wharf. Here what you’re seeing. eateries along the Wharf
you can see bear Italian names. With
fishing boats technology, however,
come in and the Bay was fished-out
watch as the by the 1950s, and any
catch of the day big-time fishing industry
is landed and went out of business or
prepared for moved elsewhere.
market.
Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 13

Alcatraz
To the inmates who were confined on this island prison, in operation from
1934 to 1963, their punishment was not only captivity but also psychological
torture. After all, they were right in the midst of one of America’s busiest
harbors, with small craft darting to and from San Francisco, Oakland,
Berkeley, and Sausalito, and they could probably hear the ceaseless proces-
sion of automobiles crossing the bridges and honking their horns. They could
certainly see the ocean liners as they glided through the Golden Gate to far
away ports – all reminding them that life was near, but freedom very far.
Top 10 Features
1 Lighthouse
2 Cell Block
3 Exercise Yard
4 Control Room
View of Alcatraz Island
from San Francisco
5 D Block
6 Dining Room
Picnicking is allowed 7 Chapel
on the dock, but
8 Broadway
you’ll have to bring
your own food. The
9 Visitor Center
visitor center does 0 Warden’s House
sell water, however.
The weather is often ! Lighthouse

Alcatraz Island was
blustery and cold on the site of the very first
the island, and the lighthouse built on the
trails and walkways West Coast in 1854. The
rough. Wear warm original lighthouse was
clothes and strong, replaced in 1909 with an
comfortable shoes. automated one, to tower
above the new cell block.
The audioguide is
well worth the extra
few dollars, as is the
@ Cell Blocks
The cell house con-
ranger-guided tour. tains four free-standing
cell blocks (below). The
complex was built by
• Alcatraz Cruises
military prisoners in 1911
(Hornblower) from Pier
and was once the largest
33: (415) 981-7625
reinforced concrete
(tickets and schedules)
building in the world. In
• www.nps.gov/alcatraz
• Open daily
all, there were 390 cells,
but the population £ Exercise Yard
With a strict “no-talking”
• Adm: day tours – $16
averaged only about 260 rule and the monotonous
child 5–11 years, $26
at any one time. gloom of being cut off from
adult; night tours –
life, prisoners whose
$19.50 child 5–11
good behavior qualified
years, $32 adult; family
them for a turn around
packages available
the walled-in Exercise
Yard (above) must have
felt very relieved. Here
they could walk, rather
than pace in their cells,
where they spent 16 to
23 hours every day.
14 You cannot visit Alcatraz independently – booking a guided tour

with the ferry company is required.
$ Control Room
From this bunker-like ( Visitor Center
The Visitor Center is
facility, reinforced to located in the old
withstand siege, the barracks building behind
guards controlled the the ferry jetty (below). It
24-hour electric security
% DAnyBlock houses a bookstore,

system. Next to the prisoner who exhibits, and a multi-
Control Room was the transgressed the strict media show providing a
visiting area, where thick rules and regulations historical overview of
glass separated prisoners would be sent to D Block Alcatraz, and an
and visitors, and conver- (above), the 42 solitary information counter.
sations were held over confinement cells kept
monitored telephones. entirely without light.
) Warden’s House
Until the house
burned down in 1970,
the warden’s home
looked out to freedom.
Designed in Mission
Revival style, the home
had 17 large rooms, and
sweeping views of the
Golden Gate Bridge and
San Francisco lights.
The History of
“The Rock”
The name “Alcatraz”
derives from the Spanish
alcatraces, for the birds
^ Dining Room
Meals were one of & Chapel
On top of the
that Spanish explorer
Juan Manuel de Ayala
the few things prisoners guardhouse, a Mission- observed here when he
had to look forward to, style military chapel sailed into the Bay in
and they were generally (above) was built during 1775. In 1850, a presi-
well-fed, to quell rebel- the 1920s. It was used dential order set aside
lion. Note the sample as living quarters and a the island for the US
menu on display at the school, as well as a Army to build a citadel,
kitchen entrance. chapel. During the post- but defense became
1930s prison phase, the less of a priority and, in
building was used to 1909, it became a
house prison staff. military prison. In 1933
the Federal Government
* Broadway
The corridor that
decided to open a
maximum-security
separates C and B blocks penitentiary here. Yet
(left) was jokingly nick- Alcatraz was not the
named by prisoners after “Devil’s Island” that
New York City’s glittering many think it was – the
thoroughfare, famous for conditions, such as one
its nightlife. The inter- man per cell, were
section at the end was better than other jails.
named “Times Square.”
15
Left Al Capone Right Scene from the film Escape from Alcatraz
Stories from The Rock

! Robert “Birdman” Stroud
The most famous inmate was % Alvin “Creepy” Karpis
Karpis robbed his way
dubbed the “Birdman”, despite through the Midwest between
the fact that he was not permit- 1931 and 1936, and earned
ted to conduct his avian studies himself the title Public Enemy
during his 17 years here. Due to Number One. He was imprisoned
his violent nature Stroud spent on Alcatraz from 1936 to 1962.
most of those years in solitary. He committed suicide in 1979.
@ Birdman of Alcatraz
This 1962 movie presented ^ Morton Sobell
Charged with conspiracy to
Stroud as a nature-loving orni- commit treason, Sobell arrived
thologist, bending historical fact on Alcatraz in 1952 and spent
to the service of a good story. five years as its most famous
political prisoner, being a victim
£ AlIn 1934
Capone
Capone was among
of J. Edgar Hoover’s witch hunt
for Communist subversives. Once
the first “official” shipment of freed, Sobell returned to live in
prisoners. The infamous gangster San Francisco, where he still
was assigned menial jobs and resides today.
treated like every other inmate.
$ George “Machine & Anglin Brothers

The brothers, John and
Gun” Kelly Clarence, are notable as the only
Jailed in 1933 for kidnapping, two known inmates to success-
Kelly was given a life sentence, fully escape from The Rock.
and was sent to Alcatraz for 17
years. He was considered a
model prisoner by the officers. * Escape from Alcatraz
Starring Clint Eastwood as
one of the Anglin brothers, again,
this 1979 film is largely Hollywood
fiction. However, the depiction of
prison life is reportedly accurate.
( Frank Wathernam
The last prisoner to leave
Alcatraz, on March 21, 1963.
) The Rock
Hollywood has never lost its
fascination with Alcatraz, as can
be seen in this 1997 action
Robert “Birdman” Stroud thriller, starring Sean Connery.
16
Top 10 Escape
Attempts
Native American
1 December, 1937: Theo- Occupation
dore Cole & Ralph Roe In 1969 Richard Oakes and 90 Native Americans

2 May, 1938: James landed on Alcatraz, set up camp, and demanded the
Limerick, Jimmy Lucas, government sell them the island for $24 worth of
& Rufus Franklin beads and red cloth. They claimed that this was the
3 January, 1939: Arthur price their people had been paid in exchange for an
“Doc” Barker, Dale island similar in size nearly 300 years earlier. The
Stamphill, William government considered forcibly removing the occupiers,
Martin, Henry Young, but growing public support for the Indians forced
& Rufus McCain officials to renew negotiations. However, in January
4 May, 1941: Joe Cretzer, 1970, while playing on the rooftop of one of the
Sam Shockley, Arnold buildings, Oakes’ youngest daughter slipped and fell
Kyle, & Lloyd Barkdoll to her death; distraught, he and his family decided to
5 April, 1943: James abandon their claim. Sixty Native Americans remained,
Boarman, Harold Brest, but as the stalemate dragged on, the majority slowly
Floyd Hamilton, & Fred began to leave – only 15 chose to stay. In June
Hunter 1970, fires ravaged the warden’s house, the
6 July, 1945: John Giles recreation hall, the officers’ club, and the lighthouse.
7 May, 1946: Bernard Coy, Following this devastation, government troops staged
Joe Cretzer, Marvin a pre-dawn raid. The remaining Indians were arrested
Hubbard, Sam Shockley, and the 19-month Indian occupation came to an end.
Miran Thompson, &
Clarence Carnes
8 September, 1958: Aaron
Burgett & Clyde Johnson
9 June, 1962: Frank Liberation Day
Morris & John and One of the occupying
Sioux Indians, Fear
Clarence Anglin Forgets, led defiant
0 December, 1962: John Liberation Day celebra-
Paul Scott & Darl Parker tions on the island on
May 31, 1970.
Teepee set up on Alcatraz during the Native American occupation
17
Chinatown
This teeming, densely populated neighborhood, with its bright façades, noisy
markets, exotic temples, and ethnic restaurants and shops, is like a city within
the city – and a place every visit to San Francisco must include. The
atmosphere recalls a typical southern Chinese town, although the architec-

ture, customs, and public celebrations are distinctly American hybrids on a
Cantonese theme. Overlook the tourist tackiness, check out some of the side
alleys, and give yourself time to take it all in.
Top 10 Sights
1 Chinatown Gate
2 Portsmouth Square
3 Golden Gate Fortune
Cookies Company
Colorful awning, 4 Old Chinese Telephone
Chinatown shop Exchange
Don’t drive into 5 Temples
Chinatown: it’s very 6 Stockton Street Chinese
congested, and Markets
parking is impossible. 7 Chinese Six Companies
Take the cable car – 8 Chinese Historical Society
all three lines will get of America Museum and
you there (see p11).
Learning Center
9 Chinese Culture Center
One of the best
Chinese restaurants 0 St Mary’s Square
in town is Tommy
Toy’s (see p91).
• Map N4
• Golden Gate Fortune
Cookies Company: 56
Ross Alley; Map M4;
(415) 781-3956
• Old Chinese Telephone @ Portsmouth Square
This was San Francisco’s
Exchange: Bank of
Canton, 743 Washington ! Chinatown Gate
A gift from Taiwan in
original town square – here,
on July 9, 1846, the US flag
St; Map M4 1970, this triple-pagoda was first raised on the Bay,
• Tin How Temple: 125 southern entrance to when the port was seized
Waverly Place, top floor; Chinatown (above) was from Mexico. Locals now
Map N4; Open 9am–4pm inspired by traditional use the area for t’ai chi and
daily Chinese village gates. games of mah-jong.
• Chinese Six
Companies: 843
Golden Gate
Stockton St; Map N4
• Chinese Historical
£ Fortune
Society of America
Cookies Company
Museum and Learning
Fortune cookies were
Center: 965 Clay St; invented in San
Map N5; (415) 391-1188; Francisco. Stop by to
www.chsa.org watch how the skillful
• Chinese Culture Center: workers (left) slip the
Holiday Inn, 750 Kearny fortune message in
St; Map M5; (415) 986- the cookie mixture,
1822; www.c-c-c.org then fold it into the
traditional shapes.
18 The finest Chinese antiques shops are found at the Chinatown

Gate end of Grant Avenue, just inside the gate.
67 2 & .
$ Old Chinese 67 5 ( (
7
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^ Stockton Street
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the most distinctive Chinese Markets
67 5 ( ( 7
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67
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chinoiserie in China- duce markets the real
7
town. It served as the smells, sights, and sounds 67 5 ( (
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telephone exchange of Chinatown come into
until the 1950s. sharp focus (above). Map of Chinatown
( Chinese
Center
Culture
The Chinese Culture

Center comprises an art
gallery and a small crafts
shop, featuring the work
of Chinese and Chinese-
American artists.
) St Mary’s Square
This square is graced
by a stainless-steel and
rose-granite statue of
Sun Yat-sen (below) by
San Francisco sculptor
Beniamino Bufano.
Gold Rush
Temples Chinese Six Cantonese
% There are a number & Companies Chinese immigrants
of temples that incorpo- This building’s brilliant began to arrive with the
rate Confucian, Taoist, façade is one of the most Gold Rush, to get rich
and Buddhist elements. ornate in Chinatown. The quick and return home
The Tin How Temple Six Companies was heroes. As it happened,
(below) was founded in formed in 1882 to pro- things turned politically
1852 and dedicated to mote Chinese interests sour in China at the
the Queen of Heaven. within the community. time, and many Chinese
stayed in the new land.
Chinese Historical
* Society of
Unfortunately, there
was a racist backlash
America Museum against them, resulting
and Learning Center in the Chinese Exclusion
This is the new home for Act of 1882, and China-
the Chinese Historical town became a kind of
Society’s 15,000-piece ghetto, full of opium
collection of artifacts, dens and vice. The Act
documents, photographs, was repealed in 1943,
and replicas that illustrate and things have steadily
and explain the Chinese- improved ever since.
American experience.
The Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lectures 19

and seminars, as well as walking tours of Chinatown.
Golden Gate Park
Golden Gate Park is every San Franciscan’s beloved backyard. Any weekend
finds hundreds of people coming here to play or just to relax and breathe in
the heady air. Almost every conceivable sort of recreational activity is
available: hiking, running, cycling, golf, tennis, baseball, soccer, fishing, and
more. There’s also the very first children’s playground in the US with the
magnificent Herschel-Spillman Carousel, built in 1912 (see p59). Even on a
rainy day, the park offers world-class activities in the form of the California
Academy of Sciences Natural History Museum, Morrison Planetarium, and,
perhaps best of all, the marvelous Steinhart Aquarium (see pp22–3).
Top 10 Sights
1 Stow Lake and
Strawberry Hill
2 Victorian Conservatory of
Flowers
Shakespeare Garden 3 Giant Tree Fern Grove and
entrance John McLaren
For information and Rhododendron Dell
a map of the park, 4 Music Concourse
stop at the McLaren 5 Japanese Tea Garden
Lodge, originally the 6 Shakespeare Garden
home of the park’s 7 Strybing Arboretum and
chief gardener. It is Botanical Gardens
now a visitor center
8 de Young Museum
(501 Stanyan St, open
9 Buffalo Paddock
8am–5pm Mon–Fri).
0 Dutch Windmill and Queen
• Entrances on Fulton Wilhelmina Tulip Garden
St, Lincoln Way, Stanyan
St & the Great Hwy ! Stow Lake and
Strawberry Hill
• Map D4 • (415) 831- Strawberry Hill is the island
2700 • www.parks.sfgov. in the middle of this lake.
org • Open sunrise– Don’t miss the Chinese
sunset daily • Free moon-viewing pavilion on
• Japanese Tea Garden: the island’s eastern shore.
Hagiwara Tea Garden
Drive; (415) 752-4227;
Open 9am–4:45pm daily @ Victorian
Conservatory
(to 6pm Mar–Oct); Adm of Flowers
$5 adult, $2 child/senior The park’s oldest building, Giant Tree
• Strybing Arboretum & a copy of London’s Kew £
Fern Grove and
Botanical Gardens: 9th Gardens (below), shelters John McLaren
Ave at Lincoln Way; more than 20,000 rare Rhododendron Dell
Open 8am–4:30pm and exotic plants. Coming upon the Giant Tree
Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Fern Grove, with its huge,
Sat–Sun; Free curling proto-flora gathered
• California Academy around a small central
of Sciences: Music lagoon, is like venturing into
Concourse; (415) 379- a primeval forest. Just a bit
8000; www.calacademy. farther to the west, the
org; Open 9:30am–5pm Rhododendron Dell contains
Mon–Sat, 11am–5pm the largest array of these
Sun; Adm $24.95 gorgeous blooms (850
varieties) of any US garden.
20 For more parks and gardens See pp48–9

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Map of Golden Gate Park

$ Music Concourse
This area provides ^ Shakespeare
Garden
the cultural focus for the This charming English
park, dating from 1894. garden features the 200-
There are free concerts odd flowers, herbs, and
on Sundays and events such, mentioned in the
sponsored by the San Bard’s works. Bronze
Francisco Opera (see p56). plaques quote
appropriate passages.
& Strybing
Arboretum and
Botanical Gardens
This vast area is home to Dutch Windmill
more than 7,000 species ) and Queen
from countries with Wilhelmina Tulip
climates similar to that of Garden
San Francisco. Environ- The windmill (above), and
ments include a Red- the tulip garden that
wood Nature Trail, a surrounds it, were both
Primitive Plant Garden, gifts from the queen of
and a Biblical Garden. the Netherlands in 1902.
The windmill is one of
the world’s largest and
was restored in 1981.
A Miracle of Land
Reclamation
The park’s more than
1,000 acres are some
3 miles (5 km) long and
half a mile (1 km) wide,
making it the largest
cultivated urban park in
the US. There are 27
miles (43 km) of foot-
* de Young Museum
Set in a beautiful
paths, winding through
gardens, lakes, water-
garden located in the falls, and forests. But it
heart of the park, this was not always so.
% Japanese
Garden
Tea landmark museum exhibits
art from Africa, the
Before the 1870s the
entire area was sandy
This eternally delightful Americas, and the Pacific. wastes and scrubland.
garden is full of refined Also has an astounding William Hammond Hall
detail: bonsai trees, rock collection of textiles, made great progress
gardens, exotic plantings, photographs, and modern over two decades, then
and pagodas (above). art (see p40). hired Scottish gardener
John McLaren in 1890.
( Buffalo Paddock
American buffalo
“Uncle John”, as he was
known, made the park
were first brought here in his life’s work, devoting
1894. In 1984 a small himself to its perfection
herd was given a home until his death in 1943,
again, roaming under the at the age of 97.
eucalyptus trees (left).
The Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum is 21

specially designed for the visually impaired to enjoy.
Left A spiky specimen from the Academy Right Clownfish in the Coral Reef exhibit
California Academy of Sciences

! Swamp
Part of the Steinhart
exhibiting a range of aquatic life
from the coral reefs and
Aquarium, which now holds mangroves of the Philippines.
about 38,000 animals from Corals, sharks, rays, sea turtles
around the world, the Swamp is and reef fishes can be viewed
home to alligators and alligator from the surface, and close-up
snapping turtles. There are also through underwater windows
exhibits on rattlesnakes, frogs, and a glass bridge.
and salamanders.
@ Discovery Tidepool $ The Water Planet

Over 100 tanks and a range
Stroke a starfish, get cozy of interactive media are used to
with hermit crabs, or pick up a inform all ages of what it takes
sea slug in this hands-on, hands- to survive under water. A variety
wet attraction, part of the of fish, reptiles, amphibians and
California Coast exhibits. The insects are on display.
pool is staffed by volunteers who
will tell you what you’re handling
and keep the animals safe, too. % Rainforests of the World
Visitors can experience four
Hours vary, since the creatures diverse rainforest environments
get a much deserved time-out in a vast glass dome: the
from time to time. Amazonian Flooded Forest,
the Borneo Forest Floor, the
£ Coral Reef
This is the deepest living
Madagascar Rainforest
Understory, and the Costa Rica
coral reef display in the world, Rainforest Canopy. This includes
a diverse range of creatures:
piranhas, flying lizards, poison-
dart frogs, parrots, geckos,
chameleons, and butterflies.
^ California Coast
Explore habitats from salt
marshes to turbulent rocky inlets
and meet a variety of native
birds, fish, and invertebrates. The
main tank – an exhibit featuring
the marine habitats of the Gulf
of the Farollones National Marine
Sanctuary – is 100,000 gallons in
capacity, with large viewing
windows, and a crashing wave
Discovery Tidepool surge system.
22 The Academy has a sustainable facility in Golden Gate Park.

For details: www.calacademy.org
& African Hall
Magnificent dioramas show
a range of African fauna, such as
cheetahs, rhinos, lions, giraffes,
and the straight-horned oryx,

in their natural surroundings.
The exhibit ends with a fine
colony of African penguins,
which can be viewed through
a vast window.
* Penguin
Feeding Time
The nine pairs of black-footed
penguins located in African Hall
are fed twice daily, and it’s
always a spectacle that the
whole family enjoys. Penguins
may waddle on land, but their
grace is evident when you
observe them dive and glide
effortlessly through the water
to catch their meal. An alligator from the Swamp
( Morrison Planetarium
Embark on a guided tour of ) The Living Roof
The museum is topped
the universe. The night skies with a 2.5-acre living roof,
never looked more real, and you planted with over 1.7 million
can travel to the very limits of native Californian plants. Take
the known universe with state- an elevator up to the rooftop
of-the-art exhibits and digital deck to enjoy the views and
technology. Shows are presented learn about the benefits of
on a daily basis. sustainable architecture.
Penguin Feeding Time
Kids love the Naturalist Center, where there are multimedia 23

displays and activities like scavenger hunts.
Grace Cathedral
Inspired by Notre Dame in Paris, the third largest Episcopal cathedral in the
US stands on the site of Charles Crocker’s Nob Hill mansion, which was
destroyed in the 1906 disaster. Work began on it in 1910 but was not finally
completed until 1964. It is constructed of steel and concrete, despite its

Gothic look, so as to withstand the city’s seismic vagaries. The interior is
replete with marble and abundant stained glass, and other sumptuous
touches both within and without make it one of
America’s most lavish religious structures.
Top 10 Features
1 Carillon Tower
2 Rose Window
3 Chapel of Grace
4 Doors of Paradise
5 New Testament Window
6 20th-Century Windows
Façade 7 Keith Haring’s Altarpiece
8 The Organ
The cathedral has a
9 Marble Labyrinth
simple café, located
0 Maze & Bufano St. Francis
downstairs on the
north side of of Assisi
Cathedral Close,
along with a shop.
! Carillon Tower
The belfry contains a
Visit the cathedral carillon of 44 bronze bells,
during Thursday cast in England in 1938.
Evensong (usually at The bourdon bell, which
5:15pm), when the tolls the hour, is the larg-
lighting is at its most est European-style bell in
dramatic. the US. Many of the bells
have evocative names,
such as Loving Kindness,
•1100 California St and Joy to the World.
• Map N3
• (415) 749-6300
• www.gracecathedral.
org
@ Rose Window
This 25-ft (8-m) work
of faceted glass (below)
• Open 7am–6pm
Mon–Fri, 8am–6pm Sat,
7am–7pm Sun
symbolizes the themes
of the Canticle of the £ Chapel of Grace
This chapel (above) was
Sun, a famous devotional the first completed unit of
poem written by St. the cathedral (1930). Its
Francis of Assisi. architecture, windows, and
apse mural were inspired
by the royal Sainte Chapelle
in Paris. Its furnishings are
a mix of ages and origins,
including the medieval
French stone altar, the 17th-
century German altar cross,
the English Gothic prayer
desk, and the painting of
the Madonna and Child
inspired by Italian Renais-
sance artist Giovanni Bellini.
24 The Chapel of Grace seats 120 people and is used for daily
services, weddings, and special events.
3
Doors of Paradise 8
$ The cathedral doors
(left) are bronze and gold 5
plate replicas of the ones
made for the Baptistry in
Florence, Italy. The 10

panels depict Old Testa-
ment stories, beginning 6
at the top left with Adam
and Eve. 0
& Keith Haring’s

Altarpiece 1
7
The AIDS Interfaith 2
Memorial Chapel con- 4 9
tains a triptych altarpiece Floorplan of
of bronze and white gold Grace Cathedral
(below) by the New York
artist Keith Haring. It was
completed shortly before
his own death from
AIDS. The central panel
shows a multi-armed
figure of compassion,
while the side panels
depict winged souls
soaring above.
Maze and Bufano
) St. Francis of
Assisi
Just beyond the entrance
is another floor labyrinth,
and an appealing statue
of St. Francis of Assisi
(above) by the late San
Franciscan sculptor
Beniamino Bufano.
Nob Hill
“Nob” was one of the
* The Organ
This monumental
kinder names reserved
for the unscrupulous
organ dates from 1934. entrepreneurs who built
The carved English oak their mansions on this,
New Testament organ screens show
% Window angelic musicians, song-
San Francisco’s highest
hill (see p83). Some say
The theme of this window birds, and dragons, as the name derives from
is brotherhood and the well as the instruments “nabob”, the title for a
church. Christ stands with of Christ’s Passion in the provincial potentate in
a welcoming gesture, with lower portions. India; others say it’s
His disciples flanking. simply a contraction of
20th-Century ( Marble Labyrinth

The Interfaith Out-
“snob”, a theory that
^ Windows door Labyrinth is a replica
would also seem
plausible. Despite the
The theme of these win- of the one at Chartres loss of almost all of the
dows is human endeavor Cathedral in France. Such mansions in the 1906
and they depict creative labyrinths were used in earthquake, the hill’s
20th-century Americans, medieval times to mimic poshness remains, as
including physicist Albert the arduous pilgrimage to home to the city’s most
Einstein, and astronaut Jerusalem; today this celebrated luxury hotels.
John Glenn. practice has been revived.

San Francisco Museum
of Modern Art
Founded in 1935, the SFMOMA is the only museum in the western US devoted to
collecting and exhibiting the full scope of modern and contemporary art, and
second only to New York’s MOMA. The landmark museum moved to its wonder-
ful Post-Modernist setting in the burgeoning South of Market neighborhood
(see p29) in January 1995. Its permanent collections include major works by
the most important 20th-century European and American artists, extensive
photography holdings, and challenging multimedia installations.
Top 10 Features Key
1 Exterior First floor
2 Atrium Second floor
3 20th-Century European
Third floor
Artists
Museum façade
4 20th-Century American Fourth floor
Artists Fifth floor
The museum’s Caffè 5 Bay Area Artists
Museo (415) 357-
6 Latin American Artists
4500) features
Mediterranean-style
7 Photography
snacks and 8 Electronic & Digital Art
sandwiches. 9 Temporary Exhibitions
0 The Catwalk
Free gallery tours are
offered hourly from Exterior
11:30am–2:30pm, and The building was !
at 7:15pm on designed by renowned
Thursdays. Meet in Swiss architect Mario
the Atrium. Botta. The 125-ft (38-m)
7
truncated cylindrical
turret (right) is decorated
• 151 3rd St with Art Deco-style
• Map Q5 chevrons.
• (415) 357-4000 6
• www.sfmoma.org
• Open 11am–5:45pm
Fri–Tue, 11am– 5
8:45pm Thu (from 10am
in summer). Closed Wed 3
• Dis. access
• Adm $12.50 adult, $8
senior, $7 student with
4
ID; audio tour price
varies; free first Tue of
month, half-price on @ Atrium
The atrium is illumi-
Thu evenings
nated by the central
skylight and takes in the
full height of the building. 2
It acts as a dramatic
entrance and public
space, hung with two 1
vast, brightly engaging
Sol Le Witt geometric Entrance
paintings (above).
26 The SFMOMA regularly rotates its collections so not all the art-
works mentioned may be on display at the time of your visit.
£ 20th-Century
European Artists
Bay Area Artists
San Francisco Bay Area artists %
These works are located are also represented on the second
on the second floor. Here floor, and include Richard
you will find important Diebenkorn, Wayne Theibaud, and
works by Matisse, Miró, Clyfford Still, all with international

Degas, Picasso, Braque, reputations. Bay Area figurative
Klee, Mondrian, painters in the collection include
Duchamp, Dalí, and Elmer Bishoff, and David Park. Most
Magritte, among others. noteworthy, perhaps, is California
Artist (1982), a humorous sculptural
self-portrait by Robert Arneson in
glazed stoneware (right).
9 ^ Latin Temporary
American Artists ( Exhibitions
Latin American art is The museum’s temporary
represented most exhibition spaces may
forcefully by the include educational
work of muralist programs, interactive
Diego Rivera and programs, or retrospec-
0 his wife Frida tive exhibitions of the
Kahlo. Other Latin work of contemporary
American painters artists such as Yoko Ono
represented include and Eva Hess, or the
Wilfredo Lam, and photography of Victorian
Joaquín Torres-Garcia. author Lewis Carroll.
8
) The Catwalk
Suspended high up
inside the cylindrical
turret, visitors can walk
9
the see-through 35-ft
(10-m) steel bridge that
cuts across the skylight
(left), providing dramatic
views of the Sculpture
Terrace and the Atrium.
7
& Photography
One of the museum’s
Museum Guide
strengths, rotating exhibits may The MuseumStore, the
include masterpieces by Man Caffè Museo, and the
Ray and Ansel Adams, as well Wattis Theater are all on
as more avant-garde works. the first floor. The
second floor is the main
* Electronic & Digital Art

Established in 1987, the
event for most visitors,
with paintings and
collection includes multimedia sculptures from the
works, moving-image pieces, permanent collection,
and video installations by as well as exhibits
such artists as Brian Eno, relating to architecture
Bill Viola, Dara and design. The third
Birnbaum, Mat- floor focuses on
thew Barney, and photography and other
Nam June Paik. works on paper, while
$ 20th-
Century American Artists
media arts are on the
fourth. Special and
US artists included here are O’Keeffe, de Kooning, temporary exhibitions
Pollock, Warhol, and Kline. One of the perennial hits may be displayed on
of the collection (above) is Jeff Koons’ hilarious any of the floors.
ceramic sculpture Michael Jackson and Bubbles (1988).
Kids love the Koret Visitor Education Center, on the second floor, 27
where there are multimedia displays and art activities.
Left Aerial view, the Esplanade Right Yerba Buena Center for the Arts Theater
Yerba Buena Gardens’ Features

! Yerba Buena
Center for the
((
7
$ Esplanade
The Esplanade
75
5
7
((
6
'
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exhibitions. d 701 Map of Yerba summer festival
Mission St • Map Q5 • Open Buena Gardens (www.ybae.org).
noon–8pm Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun
• Dis. access • Adm • www.ybca.org Rooftop
% Center andChildren’s
Carousel
@ Yerba Buena Center for

the Arts Theater
Located atop the west wing of
the Moscone Center, this com-
Multiculturalism is again the plex is all about children. The
keynote in this 750-seat indoor carousel dates from 1906.
theater. Performances may range There’s also an ice-skating rink,
from world-music festivals to a bowling center, a learning
Victorian operetta. garden, and an amphitheater.
d 750 Folsom St • Map Q5
£ Moscone Center
Completed in 1981, this was
^ Martin Luther King, Jr.
the building that began the Memorial
renovation of the SoMa district. Featuring words of peace in
It was the site of the Democratic several languages, this multi-
Party’s convention in 1984. Most faceted monument incorporates
of it is underground; above sculpture, a waterfall, and
ground the impression is of quotations from the Civil Rights
glass, girders, and gardens. leader’s speeches and writings.
d Howard St • Map Q5
& Zeum
This place aims to inspire
creative impulses in children –
Toyz is a discovery program for
new technological applications;
the Production Lab gives you the
opportunity to produce your own
film. d 221 4th St • Map Q5 • Open
1pm–5pm Wed–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun
(Tue–Sun in summer) • Dis. access • Adm
Moscone Center • www.zeum.org

* California Historical
Society Museum
more, fostering relations with the
wider community. d 736 Mission St
The state’s official historical between 3rd and 4th • Map P5 • Open
research organization holds vast 1pm–8pm Thu, 11am–5pm Fri–Tue •
collections of photos, books, Closed Jewish hols & some public hols

manuscripts, maps, and fine and • Dis. access • Adm • www.thecjm.org
decorative arts. Some of the
artifacts date as far back as the
1600s. d 678 Mission Street • Map P5 ) Metreon
Sony has created an alterna-
• Open noon–4:30pm Wed–Sat • Adm tive high-tech fun-zone for the
city’s youth. Its main attraction is
( Contemporary
Jewish Museum (CJM)
a state-of-the-art cineplex, where
you can take in the very latest
This dynamic, ever-changing movies’ special effects in all their
museum re-opened at its glory. Elsewhere, kids sit in vast
permanent home in the Yerba darkened rooms and play the
Buena complex in June 2008. Its latest multimedia games. On the
exhibition program explores upper deck is a pleasant terrace
Jewish culture, history, art, and with a café. d 101 4th St • Map Q4
Top 10 Notable
Constructions South
The Rise of
of Market South of Market
1 AT&T Park Formerly a doggedly industrial area full of
2 SFMOMA warehouses and factories, this flat stretch attracted
3 Moscone Center few residents. For nearly 100 years, it was considered
4 Yerba Buena Center unattractive, if not downright dangerous. All that
5 Rincon Center began to change in the 1970s, when slums were
6 Metreon cleared away and the Moscone Center was built.
7 South Park Upscale interior designer showrooms soon followed,
8 The Galleria ensuing decades brought premier nightclubs, and,
9 Ed Hardy San Francisco more recently, the digital boom added more than
0 The Four Seasons and virtual life to the place. Public structures have sprung
the Marriott hotels up, and the whole district is now seen as a desirable
neighborhood – at least for creative types.
Esplanade, South of Market
29
Mission Dolores
The old Misión San Francisco de Asís acquired its popular name, Mission
Dolores, from a small stream that once flowed nearby, Arroyo de Nuestra
Señora de los Dolores. It is the oldest building in the city of San Francisco
and the only intact mission chapel in the chain of 21 (of which it was the
sixth) established under the direction of Franciscan friar Father Junipero
Serra. The site was consecrated in 1776, and the chapel was built in 1782–91,
with the labor of Ohlone Indians. Its adobe walls are 4 ft (1.2 m) thick and its
red-tile roofs are typical of the “Mission Style” which can be seen all over
California in both old and new buildings. Reportedly, 36,000 handmade and
sun-dried adobe bricks were needed to complete the structure.
Top 10 Features
1 Cemetery and Serra Statue
2 Chapel
3 Altarpieces
4 Beamed Ceiling Decoration
5 Diorama and Museum
Chapel and Basilica
façades 6 Mission Façade
7 Sorrows of Mary Panels
For a fresh, authentic
8 Choir Windows of St Francis
taste of Mexico, head
for Pancho Villa
9 Dolores Street
Taqueria (see p113). 0 Dolores Park
Check out the old

photos in the
covered walkway on
the right side of the
chapel, which depict,
among other things,
early Indian festivals
and the total
destruction in 1906
of the church next
door, which was
! Cemetery and
Serra Statue
This leafy, picturesque
replaced by the
cemetery (above) is a
basilica.
gently contemplative
place. Many of San
• 3321 16th St at Francisco’s early leaders
Dolores St
• Map F5
are buried here. Central
to the space is a life-size £ Altarpieces
The hand-carved, gilded
• (415) 621-8203 sculpture of Father and painted wooden reredos
• www.missiondolores. Junipero Serra. and side altars (above) were
org • Open 9am–4pm brought from Mexico in the
daily • Dis. access Chapel late 1700s and early 1800s.
• Suggested donation The central building @
$5 adult, $3 child; 40 (right) still retains the
minute audio tour in original redwood beams,
English $5 lashed together with raw-
hide. The amber-colored
window glass gives the
interior warmth, reflected
off gold-leafed fixtures.
30 For more churches in the city See pp44–5

5
$ Beamed Ceiling
Decoration
The imaginative painted
ceiling design derives 3
from Ohlone basketry. 4 7
1

Diorama and 8
% Museum 3 3
5
Just outside the chapel is
a diorama showing what
life was like at the mission & Sorrows of
Mary Panels 2
200 years ago. A small These images along the
museum at the back of front of each of two side
the chapel contains balconies in the basilica
documents that pertain detail the seven moments
to the mission’s history. when Mary was over-
come with sorrow (above).
* Choir Windows
of St Francis
0
6
At the rear of the 9
basilica, jewel-like Plan of Mission
stained-glass windows
Dolores
depict scenes from the
life of Saint Francis of
Assisi, revolutionary ) Dolores
Park
patron saint of San One of the few large
Francisco. The lower side green spaces in the
windows depict the 21 Mission District, this park
California Missions. is situated high on a hill
and affords excellent
views of the city. It was
originally the site of San
Francisco’s main Jewish
cemetery, but was
transformed in 1905.
Junipero Serra
Dolores Street and California’s
( Undulating like a Missions
rollercoaster, this is one In 1769, Gaspar de
of the loveliest streets in Portola led an expedition
San Francisco. Palm to establish missions in
trees grace its center all California, in the com-
the way along (above). pany of Father Junipero
Serra and 60 men. They
founded Mission San
Mission Façade
The modest white ^ Diego, and then worked
their way up to Monte-
façade of the rey. Continuing up the
chapel (right) is coast, within seven
typical of the years Father Serra had
Mission Style. Its four established a mission in
columns support niches San Francisco, with the
for three bronze bells, assistance of Father
which are inscribed Francisco Palou. In all,
with their names and Serra founded 21
dates. They were missions in Upper and
added to the mission Lower California, many
in the late 18th of which survive.
century.
Note: Dolores Park is popular during the day, but at night it 31

can become a connection point for drug dealers.
The Wine Country
The world-famous Wine Country comprises two picturesque valleys, Napa and
Sonoma, and the extensive hills and dales surrounding them. Altogether, this
bucolic zone boasts over 300 wineries, from which countless award-winning
wines have emerged. Napa, the slightly more distant of the two, is more
developed for visitors, while Sonoma is more low-key but equally inviting. Both
are convenient for a day trip, but it’s worth spending a day or two here – not
only to sample the fruit of the vine but also to take a dip in one of the
rejuvenating hot springs that abound throughout the area (see pp34–5).
Top 10 Sights
1 Napa Valley Train
2 Sonoma
3 Clos Pegase
4 Sterling Vineyard
Napa Valley sign
5 Opus One
For very special 6 Domaine Chandon
snacks try the Model 7 Hess Collection
Bakery at 1357 Main
8 V Sattui
Street in St Helena.
9 Beringer Vineyards
• Napa Valley Wine Train: 0 “Old Faithful” Geyser
1275 McKinstry St,
Napa; (707) 253-2111;
www.winetrain.com
• Clos Pegase: 1060
Dunaweal Lane; (707)
942-4981; www.
clospegase.com
• Sterling Vineyard: 1111
Dunaweal Lane; (800)
726-6136; www.
sterlingvineyards.com
• Opus One: 7900 St
Helena Hwy; (707) 944- ! Napa Valley Train
9442; www.opusone
Leaving from Napa
and arriving in St. Helena, £ Clos Pegase
Housed in an award-
winery.com
or vice versa, you can winning Postmodern
• Domaine Chandon: 1
avoid the traffic and par- structure, this beguiling
California Drive, Yount
take of a gourmet meal winery offers free tours and
ville; (707) 944-2280;
complemented by local features an extensive
www.chandon.com
wines. The trip takes 3 collection of modern art. The
• Hess Collection: 4411
hours each way and the wine is memorable, too –
Red-wood Rd, Napa;
train (above) features a specialties include Cabernet,
(707) 255-1144; www.
1915 Pullman dining car. Merlot, and Petite Syrah port.
hesscollection.com
• V Sattui: 1111 White
Sonoma
Lane, St Helena; (707)
This appealing town, @
963-7774; www.vsattui.
nestled in the Valley of
com • Beringer Vineyards:
the Moon (right), is filled
2000 Main St, St Helena;
with high-end restaurants,
(707) 963-4812; www.
small hotels, and shops.
beringer.com • “Old Faith-
The town also features a
ful”: 1299 Tubbs Lane,
State Historic Park with a
Calistoga; (707) 942-
mission building and
6463; Adm $3–$8; www.
structures from the early
oldfaithfulgeyser.com
to mid-1800s.
32 The Napa Valley Wine Train costs $49.50 for a round trip, but for
the gourmet meal the cost rises to $94 (lunch) and $99 (dinner).
& Hess
Collection
&DOLVWRJD

The tours here are 6W+HOHQD
a pleasure, includ-
Sterling Vineyard ing not only wine-
$ These whitewashed
6, /
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making facilities but
5 $'

buildings perched on top also the owner’s
2 7
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5$
of a mountain (above) private art gallery of
, /
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can be seen for miles. contemporary European
The self-guided tour is and American artists. The 1DSD
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well marked. Notable Cabernet Sauvignon,
wines include Cabernet Merlot and Chardonnay
Sauvignon and Merlot. are especially good. 6DQ)UDQFLVFR
Map of the Wine

Country
) ”Old Faithful”
Geyser
One of only three known
geysers in the world that
erupt with near-perfect
regularity (below). Every
40 minutes, it spews
boiling water 60 ft (18 m)
into the air.
% Opus One V Sattui

Legendary winemaker * Extensive gardens
California Wine
Robert Mondavi and (above) and a gourmet Since 1857, wine-making
Baron Philippe de Roths- deli make this the ideal has been the mainstay
child have put their skills place along the main of this area. A phylloxera
together to produce Napa Valley road to stop blight in the early 1900s
Bordeaux-style reds in for a picnic. Also on offer nearly put an end to it
their state-of-the-art are wine-tastings of all, but Europe was hit
facilities, modeled on the lesser products free of harder, and it was
Château Mouton Roths- charge – you have to pay resistant California vines
child winery in France. for reserve tastings. that brought back the
wine business to parts
of Italy, France, and
^ Domaine
Chandon ( Beringer
Vineyards Spain. In 1976 California
Lovely gardens, a fine The oldest Napa Valley wines were put on the
restaurant, and sweeping winery, established in international map, when
views complement the 1876, and the most beau- they trounced France in
sparkling, champagne- tiful. Tours include a visit a blind taste-test in
style wines of this Moët to the 1,000-ft (300-m) Paris. Now, many Euro-
Hennessy showcase. The wine tunnels, which pean producers have
winery produces 500,000 Chinese laborers carved wineries in the valley.
cases every year. out of volcanic stone.

Left Massage treatment Right Indian Springs
Wine Country Spas

! Indian Springs
Indian Springs’ tradition of £ Mount View Hotel & Spa
A stay in this historic 1917
purification and healing began resort offers various relaxation
over 8,000 years ago, when and rejuvenation possibilities –
Native Americans built sweat mud, milk, or herbal baths,
lodges here over escaping steam. aromatherapy steam showers,
The ancient tradition continues in body-wraps, massages, or facials
the historic 1913 bathhouse, – geared to individuals or couples.
restored to pristine condition. d 1457 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga • (707) 942-
Inside, thermal geysers warm 5789 • www.mountviewhotel.com
volcanic ash in mud baths, and
soothing music is played in the
treatment rooms. d 1712 Lincoln $ Health Spa Napa Valley
In a serene, open-air setting,
Ave, Calistoga • (707) 942-4913 guests can yield aches and
• www.indianspringscalistoga.com anxiety to a plethora of
pampering and invigorating
@ Calistoga Spa Hot Springs

The motel-like Hot Springs
rituals. For some, that may mean
a stimulating fitness workout, or
provides a setting in which you a relaxing grapeseed mud-wrap
can make your visit as restful or and massage overlooking the
as active as you like. Facilities tranquil Spa Garden. d 1030 Main
include four outdoor mineral St, St Helena • (707) 967-8800 • www.
water pools, and exercise and napavalleyspa.com
aerobics rooms. d 1006 Washington
St, Calistoga • (707) 942-6269 • www.
calistogaspa.com % Dr. Wilkinson’s
Hot Springs
Over half a century of mud and
magic are celebrated here. A
mud bath consists of volcanic
ash, imported peat, and naturally
boiling hot-spring water from the
source. Designed for maximum
heat penetration and buoyancy,
this formula is one of Calistoga’s
most efficacious. The experience
lasts from 10 to 12 minutes and
is followed by a warm, mineral
water shower. Next comes an
aromatic bath, then a steam
room. A blanket-wrap follows,
then a nap and slow cool down.
d 1507 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga • (707)
Calistoga Spa Hot Springs 942-4102 • www.drwilkinson.com
34
watsu and other
massages from
certified therapists,
attend workshops,
and hike throughout

the 1,700 acres of
land. Or, you can
simply lie back and
relax. d 18424 Harbin
Springs Rd, north of
Middletown • (707) 987-
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa 2477 • www.harbin.org
^ Fairmont
Inn & Spa
Sonoma Mission
( Retreat Resort
Located in the beautiful
This famous inn provides an Russian River area, this peaceful
oasis of ultimate indulgence in setting in the Sonoma County
luxury and refinement. Blessed Redwoods offers a reinvigorating
by natural mineral hot springs, retreat from modern life. Body
the legendary spa, with inspired treatments include the Sonoma
architecture and lovely Salt Glow, Moor Mud Wrap,
landscaping, exudes understated Desert Heat Body Wrap, Body
opulence and serenity. d 100 Polish, Aromatherapy Cocoon,
Boyes Blvd, Boyes Hot Springs • (707) Retreat Wrap, and the Anti-
938-9000 • www.sonomamissioninn.org Stress Back Treatment, each
lasting approximately one hour.
& The Kenwood Inn and Spa

Nationally acclaimed as one
Included in your stay are exclu-
sive use of the pool, Jacuzzi and
of the Wine Country’s most private meadow, and evening
elegant and intimate country wine-tastings on selected
inns, the Kenwood consists of weekends. d 14711 Armstrong Woods
12 guest suites and a full service Rd, Guerneville • (866) 869-2721
spa facility. The inn has the • www.retreatresort.biz
ambiance of an Italian country
villa in the heart of the Sonoma
Valley, situated on a secluded ) Sonoma Coast Villa
This family-run, bed and
hillside facing over 1,000 acres breakfast hotel is nestled in the
of vineyards. The spa offers a rolling Californian hills. The
variety of massage styles, Mediterranean-style house is
including aromatherapy and located in 60 acres of beautiful
Ayurvedic. d 10400 Sonoma Hwy, pasturelands near Bodega Bay.
Kenwood • (707) 833-1293 • www. Accommodation consists of 16
kenwoodinn.com luxurious rooms with marble
bathrooms, fireplaces, and
* Harbin Hot Springs

Harbin Hot Springs is a non-
private patios. This secluded
retreat offers a variety of spa
profit retreat and workshop treatments, including massages,
center located to the north of reflexology, and aromatherapy.
Calistoga. Its alternative clientele The hotel can recommend more
travel from around the world to strenuous activities in the area.
soak in the natural spring pools, d 16702 Coast Hwy 1, Bodega
bask on sun decks, receive • (707) 876-9818 • www.scvilla.com
Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com 35

Left The Gold Rush Right Native Americans
Moments in History
! Native Americans
There were settlements in
1776, an expedition led by Juan
Bautista de Anza arrived at San
the Bay as early as the 11th Francisco Bay and established
century BC, made up of hunters the Presidio (fort). A mission was
and gatherers who enjoyed a rich also founded by Father Junipero
diet of seeds, shellfish, and Serra (see pp30–31).
game. Historians group these
peoples into the Coast Miwok,
the Wintun, and the Ohlone. $ American Takeover
Impending war with Mexico
in the 1840s inspired US leaders
@ Sir Francis Drake

In 1579, the English priva-
to arouse the interest of Bay
Area settlers in joining the
teer landed near Point Reyes and Union. In 1846, a party of
claimed Alta California for Queen Yankees in Sonoma declared
Elizabeth I. Along with other California’s independence from
early explorers of the area, he Mexico, christening it the Bear
failed to notice the marvelous Flag Republic. Shortly after,
bay just inside the straits. Commodore John Sloat claimed
England didn’t follow up its claim California as US territory.
to Northern California, leaving it
to the Spanish to conquer.
% Gold Rush Days
In 1848 landowner John
£ Spanish Control
About 200 years after
Sutter noticed a curious glitter in
the sediment of the American
Drake’s wanderings, Spain got River in the Sierra Nevada
serious about establishing a foothills and realized it was gold.
presence in Alta California. In Despite attempts to keep the
discovery quiet, word leaked out,
and businessman Sam Brannan
displayed a bottle of gold dust
and nuggets for the whole city
to see. The subsequent stam-
pede of ‘49ers turned the city
into a boom town overnight.
^ Wells Fargo
Stagecoaches of Wells Fargo
& Co began carrying freight and
passengers in 1852, taking full
advantage of the momentum set
up by the Gold Rush. It was also
instrumental in the development
Statue of Father Junipero Serra of the Pony Express (see p41).
36 For historic sites in San Francisco See pp38–9

& Panama-Pacific Exposition
Held in 1915 to celebrate the
Top 10 Scandals and
Disasters
opening of the Panama Canal,
the real raison d’être for the
festivities was that San Francis-
! Native Americans’
Near-Extinction

In the late 1800s Native
cans had resurrected their city Americans were hunted down
after the 1906 disaster (see p94). by settlers, with a bounty paid
for each scalp.
* Bay and Golden

Gate Bridges @ Gold Rush
Lawlessness
The Bay Bridge’s inauguration in Gold Rush frontier life was so
1936 heralded the end of the criminal that vigilante justice
age of ferryboats by linking the was proclaimed in the 1850s,
city to the East Bay. The inaugu- leading to secret trials.
ration of the Golden Gate Bridge
took place a year later (see pp8–9). £ 1906
The earthquake and
consequent fire devastated
much of the city, and 250,000
people were left homeless.
$ ”Bloody Thursday”
On July 5, 1934, police
fired shots at striking long-
shoremen, leaving two dead.
% Howl
On October 13, 1955, Allen
Ginsberg read his revolutionary
poem in San Francisco, which
was later banned as obscene.
^ Freedom & Anti-War

Pro-Civil Rights and anti-
Vietnam War riots occurred
Hippie reveller, Summer of Love from 1964 to 1970.
( ”Summer of Love”
San Francisco counterculture
& Rock Icons Die
Part of hippie legend, Janis
Joplin and Jimi Hendrix died
burst forth in the summer of in 1970.
1967. Suddenly, hippies were
everywhere, and the eerie,
poetic music that embodied a
* White’s Revenge
In 1978 ex-Supervisor Dan
new way of thinking filled the air. White shot dead Mayor George
Moscone and gay Supervisor
It was a socio-political shift that Harvey Milk (see p39).
affected the whole world.
( AIDS
The AIDS epidemic reached
) Senators Feinstein
and Boxer overwhelming proportions in
the city in the 1980s.
California has always been
several steps ahead of the rest
of the country. In 1992 it became ) Loma Prieta
Earthquake
the first state to send two In October 1989, the quake
women Senators to the US destroyed the Victorian center
of Santa Cruz (see p78) and
Congress, Dianne Feinstein and part of the Bay Bridge.
Barbara Boxer.

Left Fairmont Hotel, Nob Hill Center City Hall Right Intersection, Haight-Ashbury
Historic Sites
! Mission Dolores
The 18th-century Spanish $ Fisherman’s Wharf
Remnants of the early
mission, site of the area’s earliest fishing industry that contributed
settlement, is worth a visit for its to San Francisco’s growth are
tranquility, as well as for the still found here, just layered over
education it provides about the with a slick veneer of tourism.
city’s early history (see pp30–31). Fishing boats still come in and
deliver their catch of the day, and
@ Jackson Square
The area that witnessed the
nature makes its presence known
with a colony of sea lions that
worst misbehavior of the Barbary lounge on the pier (see pp12–13).
Coast days contains some of the
city’s oldest, loveliest buildings.
One of the very few areas that % War Memorial
Opera House
were spared in the 1906 This building was inaugurated in
conflagration (see p84). 1932 with a performance of
Puccini’s Tosca, giving the art
£ Nob Hill
Erstwhile site of the
form a permanent home here.
Modeled on its European
mansions of Golden Age moguls forbears, with a marble lobby,
and potentates, from these lofty huge chandelier, balconies, and
heights now rise the city’s most vaulted ceilings, it is dedicated
lavish hotels and the Gothic to the memory of World War I
spires of one of its best-loved soldiers. In 1945 the Opera House
cathedrals (see p83). hosted the plenary sessions that
preceded the founding of the
United Nations and, in 1951, it
was the site of the signing of the
peace treaty between the US
and Japan (see p56).
^ North Beach
The entire area resonates
with the history of the early
Italian residents, but even more
with the iconoclastic legacy of
the revolutionary Beats, who
brought the neighborhood world-
wide fame. Historic churches
stand as clear landmarks, while
equally historic saloons and
cafés take a little snooping
Jackson Square around to find (see p83).
38 For more moments in San Francisco’s history See pp36–7

Top 10 Historic
Figures
! Junipero Serra
This 18th-century Spanish

cleric traveled up and down
California establishing
missions, including Mission
Dolores (see p31).
Café sign, Haight-Ashbury @ John C. Fremont

Instrumental in the US
annexation of California in the
& Haight-Ashbury
The matrix of yet another
mid-1800s, it was Fremont
who dubbed the Bay straits
Bohemian movement that San the “Golden Gate”.
Francisco has given birth to, this
area nurtured idealistic hippies in £ John Muir
Muir was a keen promoter
the late 1960s. They brought of the National Parks move-
international awareness to ment. The Muir Woods are
alternative ways of life, living in named in his honor (see p78).
harmony with nature (see p108).
$ Leland Stanford
One of the “Big Four” who
* Fillmore Auditorium
One of the legendary homes
masterminded the Transcon-
tinental railroad also founded
of psychedelic rock during the Stanford University (see p125).
1960s. Along with the Avalon
Ballroom and the Winterland (both % Mark Hopkins
Another of the “Big Four”
now gone), this is where the San who struck it super-rich and
Francisco Sound found its first lived on Nob Hill.
audience. d 1805 Geary Blvd • Map E3
^ Charles Crocker
Another “Big Four” accom-
( On November 28, 1978, ex-
City Hall plice. The Crocker Galleria
recalls his legacy (see p50–51).
Supervisor Dan White went to
City Hall and assassinated Mayor
George Moscone and gay Super-
& A.P. Giannini
Founder in 1904 of the
Bank of Italy, later the Bank of
visor Harvey Milk (see p37). In a America, Giannini financed
botched trial, he was convicted of the Golden Gate Bridge.
manslaughter, sparking riots (see
p84). d 1 Dr. Carlton B. Goodlett Place
• Map R1 • Free tours 10am, noon &
* Harvey Milk
The first openly gay poli-
tician to become a member of
2pm Mon–Fri the Board of Supervisors was
assassinated in 1978.
) Sutro Baths
Built in 1896 by silver mag- ( Dianne Feinstein
One of the movers and
nate Adolph Sutro, these were at
shakers of San Francisco poli-
one time the world’s largest tics in recent decades, she
heated swimming pools, over- became a US Senator in 1992.
arched by a stunning glass roof.
The complex was destroyed by
fire in 1966, but you can access
) Jerry Brown
Buddhist monk and mayor
of Oakland, this intellectual
the ruins by steps at the Merrie free spirit ran for president.
Way parking lot (see p116).
39
Left de Young Right Cable Car Museum
Museums
! San Francisco
The city’s stylish home for
20th-century European and
American art and contemporary
multimedia works is a sparkling
cultural hub in the South of
Market area. Its collections span
the whole modern spectrum,
from proto-Impressionists to
cutting-edge digital installations
(see pp26–9).
The Shades by Auguste Rodin, the
@ California Academy
of Sciences
Legion of Honor
This extensively updated science

museum re-opened in September $ deTheYoung
old de Young was too
2008 with sustainable features damaged in the 1989 earthquake
that blend architecture with the to be saved, but a new state-of-
park’s natural surroundings. The the-art facility opened in 2005.
museum covers virtually every The museum’s extensive collec-
aspect of the natural world (see tion includes 19th-century and
p20 and pp22–3). contemporary American art,
and pre-Columbian-American,
£ Legion
Honor
of African, and Oceanic works.
d 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive,
This museum, located Golden Gate Park • Map D4
above Land’s End, is one • (415) 863-3330 • Open
of the city’s major venues 9:30am–5:15pm Tue–Sun, until
for pre-modern Western 8:45pm Fri • Closed major
art. It is also a beautiful public hols • Dis. access
building in a gorgeous • Adm • www.thinker.org
natural setting, so well worth
the time it takes to get to.
It contains mostly % Asian Art Museum
The new Asian Art
European works, including Museum is set in the
masterpieces by Rubens, Mexican figure, entirely restructured and
Rembrandt, Georges de la de Young seismically retrofitted
Tour, Degas, Rodin, and old Main Library in the
Monet. d Lincoln Park, 34th Ave & Civic Center. The vast and
Clement St • (415) 863-3330 • Map B3 important collection of Chinese,
• Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun • Dis. Korean, Japanese, Himalayan,
access • Adm • www.thinker.org and Southeast Asian works is
40 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com

displayed by country of origin. ingenious mechanical devices
But the layout also demonstrates that once crowded the arcade.
the flow and transformation of Don’t miss the re-creation in
Buddhist art from India and miniature of a Chinese opium
outward into the entire Far East. den. In addition, there is a small

Included is the fabulous Avery collection devoted to the art of
Brundage collection of Oriental holography. d Pier 45, Fisherman’s
jade. d 200 Larkin St • Map R2 Wharf • Map A3 • Open 10am–7pm Mon–
• (415) 581-3500 • Open 10am–5pm Fri, 10am–8pm Sat–Sun • (415) 346-2000
Tue–Sun (10am–9pm Thu) • Adm • Free • www.museemechanique.org
• www.asianart.org
^ San Francisco Museum of ( Seymour Pioneer Museum

This museum has fascinating
Craft and Design historical exhibits of 19th- and
Established in 2004, this one-of- 20th-century California. The up-
a-kind museum, housed in an stairs gallery displays furniture,
elegant building fronted by a sculpture, and paintings. d 300 4th
charming courtyard, celebrates St • Map R5 • (415) 957-1849 • Open
and promotes contemporary 10am–4pm Wed–Fri and 1st Sat of the
craft and design through month • Adm • www.california.pioneers.org
innovative exhibitions and
educational programs. They
organize lots of lectures, special ) Wells
Museum
Fargo History
events, and programs for The Wells Fargo stagecoaches

children. There is also a great are the stuff of legends, above
museum store with many all for the tales of their stalwart
original pieces for sale. drivers and the robbers who held
d 550 Sutter St • Map P3 • (415) 773- them up. Visitors can hear how it
0303 • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat (to 7pm must have been to sit on little
Thu), noon–5pm Sun • Dis. access • Adm more than a buckboard for days
• www.sfmcd.com by listening to the recorded diary
of one Francis Brocklehurst. Other
& Cable Car Museum

This brick, warehouse-like
exhibits include Pony Express
mail, gold nuggets, and photos,
structure houses the nuts and and Emperor Norton’s currency
bolts machinery that keeps the (see p54). d 420 Montgomery St
entire cable car system opera- • Map N5 • Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri
ting. Don’t miss a look down- • (415) 396-2619 • Free • www.wells
stairs at the giant, spool-like fargohistory.com/museums/
sheaves winding the fat cables
round and round (see p11).
* Musée Mechanique and

Holographic Museum
A quaint, time-warp experience
awaits you here. As you
approach the lower level, you’ll
be greeted by the loud guffaws
of Laughing Sal, the enormous,
buxom figure that is a relic of
the old Playland at the Beach. Bronze stagecoach (1984), Wells Fargo
There are also many other often History Museum
41
Left Frey Norris Gallery Right San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery
Art Galleries
! Fraenkel Gallery
One of the gallery’s first
works, including those by
prominent artists from China,
exhibitions was of NASA’s lunar Japan, South Korea, and Russia.
photographs, and this set a tone Bay Area artists also feature. The
for what followed. Soon came staff provide advice to amateur
exhibitions by Eugene Atget, and serious collectors alike about
Edward Weston and Diane Arbus, the contemporary art market. d
and later, the Bechers, Adam 456 Geary Street • Map P3 • (415) 346-
Fuss, and Sol LeWitt. Projects 7812 • Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sat; 11am–
have brought together work 5pm Sun • Free • www.freynorris.com
across all media, juxtaposing
photography with painting, draw-
ing, and sculpture. Other photo- $ Pacific Heritage Museum
Occupying the old San
graphers whose work is regularly Francisco Mint (1875–7), on top
shown include Richard Avedon of which the Bank of Canton has
and Man Ray. d 49 Geary St • Map been built. The bank sponsors
P4 • (415) 981-2661 • Open 10:30am– the museum, which focuses on
5:30pm Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat • Free the art of the Pacific Rim, aiming
• www.fraenkelgallery.com to bring the work of Asian artists
to a wider audience. Exhibitions
@ Museum of
Craft and Folk Art
feature many pieces on loan
from private collections. d 608
The emphasis here is on the Commercial St • Map N5 • (415) 399-1124
varieties of non-mainstream ways • Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat • Free
that people find to be creative – • www.ibankunited.com
to see things afresh and make
something new out of them. This
may include traditional folk art % Museo ItaloAmericano
Not only a museum and
from all over the world. d 51 Yerba gallery, but also a community
Buena Lane, at Mission between 3rd & center for San Francisco’s
4th • Map F1 • (415) 775-0991 Italians. Temporary
• Open 11am–6pm Tue–Fri; exhibitions might focus
11am–5pm Sat & Sun on the work of an
• Adm • www.mocfa.org Italian artist, or on
some aspect of
£ Frey Norris
Gallery
Italian culture.
Classes are also
This dynamic and offered on Italian art
extremely stylish and architecture, and
contemporary art cookery. d Fort Mason
venue hosts exhibitions Center, Bldg C • Map F1 • (415)
of celebrated American 673-2200 • Open noon–4pm daily
and international Museum of Craft and Folk Art (Mon by appointment only)

^ Galería de la Raza
Bi-monthly exhibitions of
Mexican-American art might
include painters, cartoonists,
performance artists, muralists,

or digital installations. Programs
also include films, panel discus-
sions, and performances by stars
of the Latino art and music scene.
d 2857 24th St at Bryant • Map G5
• (415) 826-8009 • Call for opening hours
• Free • www.galeriadelaraza.org
& Intersection for the Arts

Radical and diverse art
emerges out of this hotbed of
creativity. The alternative multi- Cartoon Art Museum
genre art installation combines
live drama performances, video
and film screenings, and panel ) Cartoon Art Museum
With an endowment from
discussions, which largely explore Peanuts creator, the late Charles
the influence of race and relation- M. Schulz, the museum is the
ships on people’s work and lives. only one in the US dedicated to
d 446 Valencia St between 15th & 16th sts cartoon art in all its forms and
• Map F4 • (415) 626-2787 • Open has approximately 6,000 pieces.
noon–5pm Wed–Sat • Free d 655 Mission St • Map P5 • (415) 227-
8666 • Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm
* San Francisco Arts

Commission Gallery
• www.cartoonart.org
Opened in 1970 this was one of 62167

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43
Left St. John Coltrane’s African Orthodox Church Right Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption
Churches
! Grace Cathedral
San Francisco’s own Notre
1,500 celebrants, with a gospel
choir and jazz band. This is also
Dame combines Italian Renais- one of the religious institutions
sance with a lot of American where same-sex couples can
originality (see pp24–5). exchange vows of matrimony.
d 330 Ellis St • Map Q3 • (415) 674-6000
@ Photos and a diorama offer a

Mission Dolores • Services: 9am & 11am Sun • Free
stirring impression of what life

was like for the Native Americans % St. John Coltrane’s African
Orthodox Church
who built this Spanish mission in “My music is the spiritual
the 18th century (see pp30–31). expression of what I am – my
faith, my knowledge, my being.”
£ Cathedral of St. Mary of

the Assumption
So said famous jazz musician, St.
John Coltrane. Services consist
The exterior of this 1971 building of a performance of Coltrane’s
has been compared to a giant “A Love Supreme,” by the band
washing machine; inside is Ohnedaruth and the Sisters of
equally odd, with stained-glass Compassion choir. d St Paul’s Lutheran
strips, evoking the four elements, Church, 1286 Fillmore St • Map F3 • (415)
and a sculpture of aluminum 673-7144 • Services: 11:45am Sun • Free
rods (see p47). d 1111 Gough St
• Map F3 • (415) 567-2020 • Services:
6:45am, 8am, 12:10pm Mon–Sat; 7:30am, ^ First Unitarian
Universalist Church
9am, 11am Sun • Dis. access • Free Since 1850, this church has been
a progressive voice in the city.
$ Glide Memorial United

Methodist Church
Welcoming all faiths and creeds,
this congregation is not bound
This church has a credo of “the by dogma, but by shared values.
human condition first, not the d 1187 Franklin St • Map P1 • (415) 776-
Bible.” Services can draw up to 4580 • Services: 11am Sun • Free
• www.uusf.org
& St. Mark’s

Lutheran Church
This 1894 pink-brick church is a
mix of Gothic and Romanesque
styles. After the 1906 earthquake
(see p37), it served as a first-aid
station and shelter. d 1111 O’Farrell
St • Map P1 • (415) 928-7770 • Services:
9am & 11am Sun • Free • www.sfmarks-
Grace Cathedral sf.org
44 Outside of service times, most churches are open to the public

free of charge to look around the buildings.
* St. Patrick’s Cathedral
Constructed in 1872, this
Top 10 Other Places
of Worship
Gothic Revival cathedral has an
impressive marble and stained-
glass interior. d 756 Mission St
!Kong Chow Temple
The oldest of Chinatown’s

temples is dedicated to Kuan
• Map Q4 • (415) 421-3730 • Services: Di, a male deity (see pp18–19).
7:30am, 12:10pm, 5:15pm Mon–Sat;
7:30am, 9am, 10:30am, 12:15pm, 5:15pm
Sun • Free • www.stpatricksf.org
@ Tin How Temple
The Queen of Heaven
rules this sanctuary and
makes sure devotees travel
( Shrine of
St. Francis of Assisi
safely by water, among other
things (see pp18–19).
Declared a State Historic
Landmark, the Gothic Revival
St. Francis of Assisi Church was
# Temple Sherith Israel
Founded in 1849 by
Jewish pioneers, the present
established on June 17, 1849, domed synagogue dates from
as the first parish church in 1904. d 2266 California St
California. The interior is adorned • Map F3 • Services: 6pm Fri,
with 11 larger-than-life murals, 10:30am Sat • Free
depicting the works of San
Francisco’s patron saint. d 610 $ Vedanta Temple
This was the first Hindu
Vallejo St at Columbus • Map M4 • (415) Temple (1905) in the western
983-0405 • Services: 12:15pm Sun–Fri US. d 2963 Webster St • Map
• Free • www.shrinesf.org E2 • Free
) Sts. Peter & Paul Church % Zen Center

Home to the city’s Zen
North Beach’s landmark practitioners. Beginners are
“Italian Church” was once welcome. d 300 Page St
dubbed the “Marzipan Church” • Map F4
for the frothy stucco decoration
on its soaring pinnacles. Inside, ^ Crystal Way
Healing through crystals,
there is a sculpted reproduction light, sound, and positive
of Leonardo da Vinci’s Last thinking are explored here.
Supper (see p88). d 2335 Market St • Map F5
& Botanica Yoruba

All the Santeria parapher-
nalia you’ll need (see p110).
* Psychic Eye
Book Shop
A panoply of exotic gods and
goddesses. d 301 Fell St
• Map F4
( The Love of Ganesha

Hindu clothing, arts, and
crafts. d 1601A Page St
• Map E4
) Open Secret
The backroom of this New
Age venue is like a temple to
all the world’s deities. d 923
C St, San Rafael • Hwy 1
Sts. Peter & Paul Church

Left San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Right Palace of Fine Arts
Architectural Highlights
! Transamerica Pyramid
Hated by many at first, the
windows, which visitors can
reach by elevator for stunning
Pyramid is now loved as an icon views of the city (see p88).
of the city. Recalling pyramids of
ancient cultures, to some it is a
symbol of the mysticism that has % Palace of Fine Arts
This bit of Neo-Classical fluff
always played a part in the San was designed by Bernard Maybeck
Francisco mentality. At 853 ft for the Pan-Pacific Exposition of
(260 m), it is the tallest building 1915. It is patterned on an 18th-
in the city, but its shape keeps it century engraving by Giovanni
from casting a shadow on the Piranesi entitled The Isle of the
neighborhood. d 600 Montgomery St Dead (see p94).
• Map N5
@ Bank of America ^ Civic Center

Centered on the City Hall
This 52-story structure was that would do any state proud,
the first skyscraper to be erec- the core buildings are in a grand
ted in the city, in 1972. The color Beaux-Arts style; and befitting
was a mistake – the granite that the city that started the Gold
faces it was supposed to be Rush, gilt is everywhere (see p84).
pink, not brown, but by the time
delivery was made, it was too
late. d 555 California St • Map N5 & Haas-Lilienthal House
This Queen Anne-style
mansion, built in 1886, is one of
£ San Francisco
the few Victorian beauties in the
city that accepts callers. It’s a
Quoting Renaissance architec- wonderful glimpse into the way
ture in thoroughly modern ways, of life among San Francisco’s
SFMOMA has established itself upper-middle classes from about
as the city’s premier Post-Modern 1890 to 1920. Outside, it features
effort. The interior has a flexibility
and functionality that works
perfectly with the collections
displayed (see pp26–9).
$ Coit Tower
Perched on Telegraph Hill,
this Art Deco sentinel takes the
form of a giant fluted column.
Reminiscent of Renaissance
towers, the column is 63-meters
tall and is perforated around the
top with arched openings and Haas-Lilienthal House
46 For a walking tour of the city’s famous Victorian houses, contact

(415) 252-9485 or visit www.victorianwalk.com
Top 10 Public
Art Sites
! Balmy Alley
The most famous set of

murals in town, by local
Latino artists. d 24th & 25th
sts between Harrison and
Treat • Map G6
@ San Francisco
Art Institute
Diego Rivera, the Mexican
muralist, painted The Making
of a Fresco here. d 800
Chestnut St • Map K3
Transamerica Pyramid £ Coit Tower

Depression-era murals
decorate the lobby (see p88).
gables, a turret, and patterned
embellishments; inside, you can
see parlors, a dining room, one
$ Fort Mason
The Learning Wall is a
mural depicting education.
of six bedrooms, and the ball- d Franklin St • Map J1
room. d 2007 Franklin St • Map M1 •
(415) 441-3004 • Open noon–3pm Sat &
Wed, 11am–4pm Sun • Adm
% Women’s Building
The work of seven women
painters graces the façade.
d 18th St between Valencia &
* Executed in the medieval
Grace Cathedral Guerrero • Map F5
French Gothic style, echoing in

particular Notre Dame in Paris,
^ Bikeway
This 340-ft (104-m) mural
yet accomplished using steel- chronicles a bike-ride from
Downtown to Ocean Beach.
reinforced concrete. It is the d Duboce St between Church
third largest Episcopal church & Market • Map F4
in the US (see pp24–5).
& Beach Chalet
Depression-era murals
( Dating from 1948, this is the
Folk Art International
depict famous citizens.
d 1000 Great Hwy • Map A4
city’s only building by Frank Lloyd
Wright. The sweeping spiral
ramp predates that at Wright’s
* Rincon Center
These 1948 murals by
Guggenheim Museum in New Russian artist Anton Refregier
trace Californian history.
York. d 140 Maiden Lane • Map P4 d Mission, Howard, Steuart &
• (415) 392-9999 • Open 10am–6pm Spear sts • Map H2
Tue–Sat • Free • www.folkartintl.com
( Financial District
The black-stone Transcen-
) Critics abound who are
St. Mary’s Cathedral
dence is in front of the Bank
of America.
ready to dismiss this parabolic
form, but the soaring curves take
the attention upward, in much
) Golden Gate Park
The Music Concourse is
the same fashion that tracery adorned with a number of
bronzes, including Apple Cider
and peaked vaulting do in Gothic Press (see pp20–21).
cathedrals (see p44).
There are walking and biking tours showcasing murals in the 47
Mission District. Contact (415) 285-2287 for details.
Left Embarcadero Park Right Buena Vista Park
Parks and Gardens

! Golden Gate Park
One of the largest city parks $ The Presidio
This vast swathe of
in the US is also one of the most greenery only entered the city’s
diverse, and all of it brought repertoire of parklands in 1994.
forth from what was once scrub It has the potential to be even
and dunes. The park also fea- more amazing than Golden Gate
tures first-rate cultural attractions Park, providing that the right
such as the de Young Museum decisions are made by the
(see pp20-21). Presidio Trust, whose job it is to
make the new national park
@ Buena Vista Park

This steep and densely
financially self-sufficient by 2013.
Filmmaker George Lucas has
wooded hill offers terrific pano- created a $350 million
ramas from its Haight Street headquarters here for his
location, as well as some fairly production company LucasFilm
challenging trails for those who and up to 1,500 employees.
like to hike and bike. d Map E4
£ Fort Mason % Alta Plaza

Pacific Heights’s double
The rolling lawn above Fort block of verdant hill is a popular
Mason Center (see p94), known place to take the sun when it
as the Great Meadow, is a ventures to break through the
relatively little-used park, but it’s fog. Basketball and tennis courts
great for taking a siesta, tossing and a children’s playground are in
a frisbee, or just strolling through the center, while to the south
to take in the spectacular views there are terraced lawns, onto
from the cliffs. d Map F1 which some of Pacific Heights’
oldest homes face. d Map E2
^ Alamo Square
Postcard central, thanks to
its row of perfect Victorians
backed by the knock-out Down-
town view. The park itself is a
sloping patch of green, while the
surrounding streets are lined
with so many grand old houses
that it has been declared a
historic site. Two of them have
been turned into hotels, although
the areas immediately outside
the square are not the most
Shakespeare Garden, Golden Gate Park salubrious at night. d Map E4
48 Note: San Francisco’s parks should be avoided at night.

& Embarcadero Park
The last few years have
witnessed a welcome transfor-
mation along the entire stretch
of the Embarcadero. The 1989

earthquake put an end to the
idea of running a freeway into
the city center, so the old ship-
ping piers are now set off by
new plantings and sidewalks and
the area is being promoted as a
breezy park. In-line skaters and
cyclists disport themselves where Lafayette Park
once concrete embankments
held sway (see p93). these oases without a fight.
Squatters’ buildings occupied
* Yerba Buena Gardens

A small but very welcome
some of the land in the center of
this park until as late as 1936,
patch of green in an otherwise when they were finally pulled
paved-over area. When the down, liberating the lush gardens
weather is fine, the lawn is for all to enjoy. d Map F2
populated by sunbathers, while
other parts of the gardens fea-
ture beautiful memorial fountains ) Walton Park
This tiny park is a much
and sculptures (see p28). needed break from concrete and
asphalt for Downtown workers,
( Lafayette Park
This is another of Pacific
whom you will see picnicking
here at weekday lunchtimes. The
Heights’s double-blocked hilltop park evokes a peaceful mountain
gardens – a leafy green haven of meadow. A wonderful sculpture
pine and eucalyptus. Steep by Georgia O’Keeffe adds contrast,
stairways lead to the summit, while a central fountain sends
with its delightful views. The city droplets of water falling across
did not manage to set aside cement blocks below. d Map M6
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Left Gump’s Right Embarcadero Center
Stores and Shopping Centers

! Gump’s
Founded in 1861 by German
of Paris building, constructed in
the 1890s but torn down to build
immigrants, this homegrown this modern structure. Part of
department store is an institution. the original remains, however, by
It has one of the largest way of the huge stained-glass
collections in the US of fine china dome. Neiman’s boast is that it
and crystal, selling famous names can get anything you might want
such as Baccarat and Lalique. – private jets, elephants, you
The store is also celebrated for name it. d 150 Stockton St • Map P4
its Oriental treasures, rare works
of art, and its window displays.
d 135 Post St • Map P4 • (800) 766-7628 $ Saks Fifth Avenue
For decades, the name has
been synonymous with high
@ Nordstrom
Located on the top five
style and this branch of the New
York mainstay is one of the best
floors of this gleaming center, embodiments of the store’s
the fashion emporium is known mythic elan. You’ll find just about
as the “store in the sky.” Impec- every international designer of
cable service, a vast selection, note here. d 384 Post St • Map P4
and a refined atmosphere
featuring live piano music make
this a very upscale shopping % Macy’s
This old-guard department
experience. d San Francisco Shopping store has now become an all-
Center, 865 Market St • Map Q4 purpose emporium carrying
merchandise in all price ranges.
£ Neiman Marcus
Perhaps the highest of the
Not to say it is down-market, it
just isn’t trying to compete with
high-end stores, this one over- its upscale neighbors any longer.
looks Union Square from a plum d 170 O’Farrell St • Map P4
spot once occupied by the City
^ Crocker Galleria
In the 1980s, when an old
office building was truncated,
architects put together some of
the vintage elements to create
this sparkling indoor mall. Its
three floors are under a dramatic
glass dome built around a central
plaza, creating an open-ended
arcade. US and European
designer stores vie for attention
with local shops, cafés, and
Nordstrom restaurants. d 50 Post St • Map P5
50 For tips on shopping in San Francisco See p140

Top 10 Shopping
Areas
! Union Square
Traditionally the focal point

of all the best stores, includ-
ing Tiffany & Co, Armani, Prada,
Cartier, Yves St Laurent,
Chanel, and more (see p84).
@ Union Street
Converted Victorian homes
house a charming assortment
of boutiques, bookstores,
antiques shops, restaurants,
and a cinema (see p99).
# Grant Avenue
The southernmost four
Crocker Galleria blocks are chic shopping off
Union Square; then you enter
eight blocks of exotic China-
& Embarcadero Center
These four skyscrapers are town emporiums; finally,
Upper Grant is all about North
primarily office towers, but on Beach hangouts. d Map N4
the lower and promenade levels
there are over 125 shops and
restaurants, from newsstands
$ Upper Fillmore Street
A colorful choice of cafés,
and coffee bars to a Gap. The restaurants, and boutiques, all
geared to a high-end Pacific
choice tends toward the major Heights clientele. d Map E2
chains. d Embarcadero & Battery,
Sacramento & Clay sts • Map N6
% Market Street
A good place to find cut-
rate electronics shops, as well
* Ghirardelli Square
Housing over 70 restaurants
as outlet shops like Old Navy
clothing store. d Map Q3
and shops, this former chocolate
factory has become one of the
most frequented destinations in
^ Hayes Valley
These blocks offer shop-
Fisherman’s Wharf. The stores ping with an avant garde feel
(see p100).
range from tourist T-shirt shops
to fine jewelry boutiques (see
p13). d 900 North Point St • Map K1 & Chestnut Street
Clothing boutiques,
health-food shops, and an old-
fashioned cinema. d Map K1
( Metreon
This showcase for Sony pro-
ducts and similar paraphernalia is * The Mission
Plenty of super-discount
a high-tech heaven for kids (see stores and funky home
p59). d 101 4th St • Map Q4 furnishing shops (see p108).
) Westfield ( Castro Street

Fine shops, gay bookstores
Shopping Center and erotic boutiques (see p107).
An awesome center with ten
levels and nearly 400 stores,
including a Bloomingdale’s and a
) Haight Street
This is still hippie-central –
secondhand clothing and eso-
nine-screen movie theater. d 865 teric emporiums (see p99).
Market St • Map Q4
51
Left Jack London Right Dashiell Hammett
Writers
! Jack London
Adventurer and author of $ Jack Kerouac
Arriving from New York in
frontier tales such as White 1947, it was Kerouac (1922–69)
Fang, The Sea Wolf, and The Call who coined the term “Beat.” He
of the Wild, Jack London (1876– and his companions – Neal
1916) grew up in Oakland. There Cassady, Allen Ginsberg,
a museum of his memorabilia is Lawrence Ferlinghetti, and others
housed in a reconstruction of the – initiated the new politics of
log cabin he lived in while dissent and free love, all of
prospecting for gold in the Yukon which led, within a decade, to
Territory. His fiction is based on the Hippie Movement (see p37).
his experiences in the untamed His classic novel On the Road
West and the social inequality he (1957) galvanized a generation.
saw in boom town San Francisco.
@ Dashiell Hammett % Allen Ginsberg

Ginsberg (1926–97) cleared
The author of The Maltese the way for the eventual Gay
Falcon and creator of the classic Liberation Movement by openly
hard-boiled detective Sam Spade declaring his homosexuality in
made San Francisco his home his literary milestone Howl, first
from 1921 to 1929. He used the unveiled to the public in 1955
fog-swirled slopes of the city’s (see p37). His epic poem soon
hills as the perfect backdrop for attracted charges of obscenity in
his stylish crime stories. Hammett the buttoned-down, witch-
(1884–1961) was himself hunting 1950s. Ginsberg’s
employed briefly at the famous spiritual mysticism also set the
Pinkerton Detective Agency. tone for the Hippie Movement.
£ Gertrude Stein &

Alice B. Toklas
Stein (1874–1946) was raised in
Oakland, Toklas (1877–1967) in
San Francisco, and both were
members of the wealthy Jewish
bourgeoisie that has played such
an important part in the city’s
cultural life. But these two larger-
than-life women soon deserted
the Bay Area for Paris, where they
became Queen Bees of a circle
of brilliant international artists and
writers, including Pablo Picasso
and Ernest Hemingway. Jack Kerouac

Top 10 Movies Set in
San Francisco
! San Francisco
Clark Gable and Jeannette

Macdonald star in this 1936
film set amid the rubble of the
1906 earthquake.
@ The Maltese Falcon

Classic Bogart (1941), in
which he embodies detective
Sam Spade. The four-year-old
Bay Bridge is in evidence.
Armistead Maupin
# Dark Passage
This Humphrey Bogart and
^ Maupin’s Tales of the City
Armistead Maupin
Lauren Bacall vehicle (1947)
makes use of San Francisco’s
were serialized in the San moody climate.
Francisco Chronicle before being
published in book form. They are
lighthearted paeans to the idio-
$ Vertigo
A classic Alfred Hitchcock
thriller (1958) memorably
syncrasies of gay San Francisco shows the crashing waves
in the 1970s, before the specter under Golden Gate Bridge.
of AIDS changed everything.
% Bullitt
Probably the most famous
& African-American feminist
Alice Walker
car-chase ever filmed, due to
the city’s infamous hills (1968).
and dedicated San Franciscan,
Walker’s novel The Color Purple
(1985) set the tone for a new
^ Dirty Harry
Yet another detective
vision of black heritage, as seen story (1971) set in the city
that invites such mysteries,
from the woman’s point of view. perhaps due to its fog.
* Wallace Stegner
A Stanford professor of
& Invasion of the
Body Snatchers
This 1978 remake of the
creative writing, Stegner’s novel
1950s classic stars Donald
Angle of Repose won the Sutherland as the last survivor
Pulitzer Prize in 1972. of a chilling alien takeover.
( Amy Tan
When Tan’s The Joy Luck
* Basic Instinct
This 1992 thriller sees
Sharon Stone and Michael
Club (1989) hit the scene, San Douglas cross Golden Gate
Francisco’s Chinese community Bridge to a love-pad at Seadrift.
at last found its voice. It illustrated
Chinese culture and its clash
with uprooted Americana.
( Mrs Doubtfire
Native San Franciscan
Robin Williams is in drag in
this 1993 spoof. Golden Gate
) Danielle Steele
Steele’s “bodice-rippers”
Park is shown to full effect.
have had such success that she

can now afford to be mistress of
) The Pursuit of
Happyness
A 2006 Will Smith drama set
the very finest Pacific Heights in the gritty Tenderloin district.
mansion (see p99).
One of Wallace Stegner’s most famous students was Ken Kesey, 53

author of the bestseller One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest.
Left Joshua Abraham Norton Center Joan Baez Right Willie Brown
Eccentric & Noteworthy Characters

! Sally Sanford
The Sausalito Chart House
corporations should be fought,
not trusted. He chose the name
Restaurant is the former purview Jello Biafra because of “the way
of Sally Sanford (1903–82), the the two images collide in
one-time bawdy house doyenne, people’s minds,” with “Jello” as
and then Honorary Mayor of the embodiment of American
Sausalito. Since Gold Rush days, blandness and “Biafra” as the
San Francisco has loved and universal symbol of starvation.
even honored those who stand His platform included having
for the city’s sexual liberality. businessmen wear clown suits
to the office. He finished fourth
@ Joshua Abraham Norton

Born in 1819, Norton made
out of a field of ten, with 3.5 per
cent of the total votes.
his fortune in San Francisco but
lost it all in 1852. The event left
him unhinged but harmless, and $ Sister Boom-Boom
One of the original Sisters of
he declared himself “Emperor of Perpetual Indulgence, a self-
the United States and Protector described order of gay male
of Mexico.” He issued his own nuns, Sister Boom-Boom took
money, and was lovingly part in street theater with them
indulged by the city’s populace in the late 1970s and early
until his death in 1880. 1980s. In 1982 he ran for a seat
on the Board of Supervisors of
£ Jello Biafra
Punk rock lead vocalist for
San Francisco, winning 23,125
votes. He is also a recognized
The Dead Kennedys, Biafra ran astrologer and uses New Age
for mayor of San Francisco in science to interpret gay issues
1979. His basic belief was that for the community.
corrupt governments and
% Melvin Belli
Known as the “King of Torts”,
the flamboyant Belli was a
pivotal figure in fostering today’s
litigious society as an innovator
in the area of personal injury law.
He took on big corporations and
controversial clients, including
Errol Flynn, Jim and Tammy Faye
Bakker, Lana Turner, Mae West,
Muhammad Ali, and Jack Ruby.
Belli died in 1996 at the age of
88, just a few months after filing
Jello Biafra and The Dead Kennedys for bankruptcy.
54
^ Joan Baez
Known in her youth as “The
Top 10 Sixties Figures
Voice,” girlfriend of Bob Dylan,
and peacenik, the Palo Alto
!Janis Joplin
This troubled singer from
Texas became the queen of
native later came out as a lesbian, the San Francisco sound, until

continuing to work for peace and her death by heroin overdose.
social justice. In 2001, Baez
created a cabaret character, the @ Ken Kesey
A powerful, revolutionary
Contessa ZinZanni, in a show writer, his Magic Bus and
that has enjoyed good reviews in Trips Festival set the tone for
San Francisco. the entire Hippie Movement.
& Mrs. Madrigal # Jerry Garcia

Patriarch of the San
Olympia Dukakis brought Francisco sound, his Grateful
this wonderful Tales of the City Dead band continued to tour
character to vibrant life in the until his death in 1995.
mini-series based on Armistead
Maupin’s books (see p53). Anna $ Mario Savio
The UC Berkeley student
Madrigal is a transsexual land- launched the Free Speech
lady who rents out apartments Movement on the campus in
to young singles, both gay and the late 1960s.
straight, and tends to her mari-
juana plants and her charges with % Owsley Stanley
The most famous source
equal wisdom and spirituality. of pure LSD in the 1960s.
* Francis Ford Coppola

The director of The
^ Grace Slick
The other queen of San
Francisco’s influential bands,
Godfather makes San Francisco
in this case Jefferson Airplane.
the home of his Zoetrope
productions, and has also
branched out into other & Huey Newton
Oakland’s founder of the
enterprises. His Niebaum- Black Panthers, a group
Coppola winery in the Napa committed to violent change
if necessary.
Valley is one of the best.
* Patty Hearst
( For nearly six decades
Herb Caen The newspaper heiress,
kidnapped by the Symbionese
Liberation Army in 1974,
Caen’s newspaper column was
apparently converted and took
required reading. To his many part in an armed robbery.
devoted fans he was, and
remains “Mr. San Francisco.” He
coined the term “Beatnik” in his
( Jim Jones
The leader of a Fillmore
April 2, 1958, column. District religious group who
moved en masse to South
America ended his days and
) Willie Brown
San Francisco’s first African-
those of some 900 followers
in 1978, in a mass suicide by
American mayor was famous for cyanide-laced Kool-Aid.
his bon vivant ways. His high-
living, fast-shuffling style did not ) Charles Manson
This commune leader and
detract from his popularity, his followers murdered
however, and the city seemed actress Sharon Tate in 1969.
to prosper under his tutelage.

Left Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall Right War Memorial Opera House
Performing Arts Venues

! War Memorial
Opera House and San £ Masonic Auditorium
Originally a Masonic Temple,
Francisco Ballet built in 1957, this attractive
The San Francisco Opera structure, with its 3,000-seat
Company is the second largest auditorium, is used as a venue
in the country and performs from for jazz performances, lectures,
June to January. The excellent and readings, as well as conven-
San Francisco Ballet, one of the tions and seminars. Mosaics
nation’s oldest, mostly performs inside and out depict some of
at the Opera House, too (see the tenets of Freemasonry. d 1111
p84). d 301 Van Ness Ave • Map R1 California St • Map N3 • (415) 776-4702
• (415) 864-3330
@ Louise M. Davies $ Curran Theater

Built in 1922, this is one of
Symphony Hall the grandest theaters in the city
With performances from and a Registered National
September to May, under the Historic Landmark. The interior is
directorship of Michael Tilson a fantasy of gold and carved
Thomas, the San Francisco wood, complemented by a vast
Symphony Orchestra performs in chandelier and murals. Shows
this modern structure with tend toward long-running Broad-
carefully modulated acoustics. way hits. d 445 Geary St • Map P3 •
Built in 1980, this curving, glass- (415) 551-2000 • www.shnsf.com
fronted concert hall is loved and
loathed in equal measure by San
Franciscans. Its corner place- % Golden Gate Theater
This former movie house,
ment is set off by a Henry designed with Moorish influ-
Moore bronze, which also has its ences in the 1920s, is one of
share of detractors. d 201 Van Ness the city’s larger mainstream
Ave • Map R1 • (415) 864-6000 theaters. Its usual offerings are
traveling Broadway blockbusters,
such as Wicked and Monty
Python’s Spamalot. d 1 Taylor St
• Map Q3 • (415) 551-2000
• www.shnsf.com
^ Herbst Theater
The smallest of the main-
stream houses offers a mix of
cabaret, comedy, dance, lectures,
and concerts. It’s really just a
recital hall, and the acoustics are
San Francisco Symphony Orchestra not great, but the beautiful
56 If you want to see some of the most popular shows in San

Francisco, it is always wise to book well in advance.
( Magic Theater
In the 1970s, none other
than Sam Shepard was the
resident playwright of the Magic,
and its stage has seen perfor-

mances by the likes of Sean
Penn and Nick Nolte. It
specializes in bringing new plays
to light, usually by up-and-
coming Americans. It also offers
“raw play” readings of as yet
unstaged works. d Fort Mason
Center, Bldg D • Map F1 • (415) 441-8822
Orpheum
) Beach Blanket Babylon
High camp and high head-
1930s building is decorated with dresses, along with jolly good
eight enormous Beaux-Arts singing by the veteran ensemble
murals that were executed for cast make this one of the joys of
the 1915 Pan-Pacific Exposition. the city. It’s been zinging the
d Veterans’ Memorial Building, 401 Van heartstrings of lovers of San
Ness Ave • Map Q1 • (415) 392-4400 Francisco for more than a quarter
of a century and shows no signs
& Orpheum
Originally a vaudeville house
of flagging. The excuse for all
this frivolity is the sending up of
and then a movie theater, this is various notables, most of whom
the historic spot where Hair was well deserve the good-natured
given its first West Coast perfor- ribbing. d Club Fugazi, 678 Green St
mance some three decades ago • Map L4 • (415) 421-4222
– known locally as “the New York
version of what happened here 2 1 67 5
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Left Golden Gate Park playground Right Exploratorium
Children’s Attractions
! Exploratorium
Kids can experience one of
quality children’s programs, such
as the many feeding times and
the finest, uniquely San the creepy-crawly insect
Francisco interactive days at this denizens, make it one of the
superb science museum. They’ll tops for budding zoologists. The
learn all about their senses and whole landscaping of the place,
how they work, as well as delve from quirky castles to natural
into all the laws of physics habitats, is also designed for
through first-hand experiments. maximum fun (see p116).
The top draw, however, is the
Tactile Dome, a totally dark
sphere in which you feel your £ Aquariums
Part of Golden Gate Park’s
way along, touching a range of California Academy of Sciences
sensorially stimulating objects (see pp22–3), the Steinhart
and textures (see p94). Aquarium is a big hit with kids.
The darkened corridors are filled
with softly glowing tanks in
which some of the weirdest
creatures on the planet disport
themselves. Then there’s the
Touching Tidal Pool if kids want
to get up close and personal
with their finny friends. At
Fisherman’s Wharf, UnderWater
World gives an even greater
undersea experience, with walk-
through transparent tunnels
surrounded by sea life (see p13).
$ Zeum
This elaborate complex,
Crazy Castle, San Francisco Zoo aimed both at entertaining kids
and spurring their creativity to
@ San Francisco Zoo

Direct encounters with farm
the max, is part of the greater
Yerba Buena Center. There’s a
animals at Family Farm, and wonderful old-fashioned
visits with zoo babies, which carousel, a labyrinth, a studio
may include gorillas, snow where they can script, produce,
leopards, rhinos, or alpacas, and star in their own videos, art
make this a must-do for the studios and galleries, plus lots
youngsters. Although perhaps more to keep them busy and
not the biggest or best zoo in productive all day long. Ages
the world, its attention to top- 5 to 18 (see p28).

* Golden Gate Park
Playground
At the southeastern corner of
the park, kids will love the old
carousel, a treehouse, and some

great swings, slides, and other
kid-driven rides. In the summer,
there are often Punch and Judy
Alcatraz shows to tickle and delight
children of all ages (see pp20–23).
% Randall Museum
Perched above the city, in
( Angel Island State Park
Corona Heights Park, this small, An ideal place for a full-day
welcoming complex is primarily a family outing. You can picnic,
petting zoo, with farm animals, swim, hike, kayak, camp, or take
raccoons, reptiles, and birds. But the tram tour that goes all
it also offers hands-on experience around the island, with a guide
with woodworking, pottery, who points out sites of historic
painting, theater, photography, interest – dating from the days
model railroads, storytelling, when the place was a rather
gardening, and more. The aim is forbidding immigrant clearing
to teach children respect for station (see p93).
nature and the environment.
d 199 Museum Way, off Roosevelt Way,
Buena Vista • Map E4 • (415) 554-9600 ) Metreon
Intended as a lively, high-
• Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat • Free tech, multilevel amusement
• www.randallmuseum.org arcade for adolescents, so far
the only thing that seems to
^ Alcatraz
“The Rock” is always a hit
have clicked is the superb cinema
complex. Here you can see the
with older children, particularly latest Hollywood blockbusters
boys, who relate to the grim, with full digital sound effects
quasi-military aspects of the place. amped up to the highest possible
The wildness of the island’s level. Otherwise, the Metreon’s
natural beauty, as well as the darkened rooms, designed for
ferry ride out and back, will also checking out the latest video
delight. Smaller kids might find it games, are largely abandoned by
a bit frightening (see pp14–17). the teens who were supposed to
be flocking (see p29).
& Bay Area

Discovery Museum
This hands-on museum is aimed
directly at children. Kids will be
able to enjoy an art studio, a
science lab, a wave workshop,
an engineering lab, the “Maze of
Illusions,” and a media center.
d 557 McReynolds Rd, Sausalito • (415)
339-3900 • Open 9am–4pm Tue–Fri,
10am–5pm Sat–Sun • Closed public hols
& last two weeks in Sep • Dis. access •
Adm • www.baykidsmuseum.org Angel Island State Park
59
Left Divisadero Right Twin Peaks
Scenic Drives
! 49-Mile Drive
This all-in-one $ Twin Peaks
More famous
driving tour is panoramas await
marked with blue- you here, as you
and-white seagull wind your way up
markers, and winds the two mountains.
its way through the You can get 360-
most picturesque degree views of the
parts of the city. It city to the east, the
can be challenging ocean to the west,
to follow, keeping the Bay to the north,
an eye out for the and the valleys to
markers and the 49-Mile Drive marker the south (see p107).
traffic at the same
time, but you can get a map of
the route from the Visitor % The Great Highway
Broad and straight, this
Information Center (see p132). coast highway begins at Cliff
House at the northern end and
@ Mount Tamalpais
The road that leads up to the
eventually meets the famous
Highway 1, which takes you, via
top of “Mount Tam” is appropri- dramatic cliffs, down to Half
ately called Panoramic Highway. Moon Bay, Santa Cruz, Monte-
All the way along, it provides you rey, Carmel, Big Sur – and
with dramatic views of the Marin eventually, to Mexico. d Map A4
Headlands, both on the Bay and
ocean sides, and as you approach
the summit, far-reaching views of ^ Divisadero
This street cuts a great
the Bay Area (see p124). swathe through the city centre.
It starts in the south at Duboce
£ Conzelman Road
This road hugs the bluffs,
Street, then rises to glorious
mansions and Bay vistas after
high above the waves, on the Geary Expressway. d Map E4
southern edge of the Marin
Headlands. It affords some of
the most famously beautiful & Berkeley & Oakland Hills
Blending gently with the
views of the north tower of Berkeley Hills, the Oakland Hills
Golden Gate Bridge, looking back offer some beautiful parks, such
at the city in the distance. The as Redwood Regional Park. Sky-
way is punctuated with old line Boulevard provides access to
military bunkers, since this entire most of this ridge area, with
area was once given over to the many picnic groves and hiking
army to guard the western options along the winding way.
shores. d Marin County d Hwy 24

* Skyline Drive
Pick up this bucolic road
Top 10 Hair-
Raising Hills
(Highway 35) at Lake Merced
(see p117), and it will take you all
the way down the woody spine
! Lombard Street
Called “The Crookedest

Street in the World,” it isn’t
of the Peninsula to Santa Cruz. too hair-raising, but the views
It’s a total immersion in nature, of North Beach as you des-
just minutes from the populated cend are charming. d Map L1
areas around the Bay.
@ Top of Divisadero
The most dramatic section
( La Honda &
Old La Honda Roads
of Divisadero is the highest
point in Pacific Heights.
Behind Stanford University (see d Map E2
p125) is the quiet town of
Portola Valley. From here, these # Twin Peaks
The view from these
picturesque switchback roads peaks seems like one from a
ascend to meet Skyline Drive. helicopter, hovering over the
They are very narrow in places, city. d Map E6
and you can’t go more than 10
mph (16 kmph), but the timeless $ Gough between
Jackson and
beauty of the Bay Area forests Washington
makes it worthwhile. A hair-raising ascent, especi-
ally if your car isn’t automatic
– it’s very steep. d Map F2
) Highway 9 and
Big Basin State Park
This gently mountainous region % Sacramento
up Nob Hill
is almost entirely undeveloped. Take the bus up and hear the
The main town, Boulder Creek, is engine churning on its pain-
like a small frontier settlement, fully slow ascent. d Map N3
where craftspeople sell their
wares, and country stores cater ^ Noe at 21st Street
At the heights bordering
mostly to locals. This is an area the Castro, Noe Valley, and
that time happily forgot. the Mission, this impossibly
steep street will also give you
a few chills. d Map F5
& Potrero Hill

Try Wisconsin Street at
20th for an experience that
feels like freefall (see p109).
* Corona Heights Park

Hiking trails and some
spectacular views. d Map E4
( Russian Hill
One of the best drives in
town, with great views of
Fisherman’s Wharf. d Map M2
) Filbert Street
There’s a sense of flying
off into space as you dive
over the brink of Hyde and
Leavenworth. d Map L2
Highway 1, from The Great Highway
61
Left Greens Right Ritz-Carlton Hotel Dining Room
Restaurants
! The Ritz-Carlton Hotel
Dining Room % Greens
Originally inspired by the
More perfect food than this, in a huge success of the Zen bakery
more quietly refined setting, or and coffee shop, this spacious,
with more elegantly considerate pleasant Marina restaurant soon
service is hard to imagine. When came to define vegetarian eating
you want to give yourself a treat, – substantial, delicious, and
make a reservation here and inventive – for the entire Bay
prepare to be pampered with Area (see p97).
the very best food and wines
(see p91).
^ Delfina
Nouvelle Italian might best
@ Kokkari Estiatorio
This upscale Greek taverna
describe the cuisine here, and it
is turned out to near perfection.
is a fun and spirited place that The decor is fairly stark but not
might have you imagining overbearing, and the inventive
yourself to be somewhere in the dishes rarely fail to surprise and
Aegean. Don’t bypass the delight. Maybe you’ll choose a
appetizer sample, which includes night when they’re serving
homemade pitta bread, and gnocchi with peas and morel
various artfully delicious spreads. mushrooms. d 3621 18th St between
d 200 Jackson St at Front • Map M6 Dolores and Guerrero • Map F5 • (415)
• (415) 981-0983 • Dis. access • $$$ 552-4055 • Closed L • Dis. access • $$$
£ Farallon
Tuck into exquisite seafood,
such as olive oil-poached halibut
or champagne-cured sardines, at
this lovely restaurant that is awash
with marine motifs – even the
chandeliers are jellyfish-shaped!
Save room for the tempting
cheeses and desserts (see p91).
$ A16
Known for its authentic
pizzas, house-cured salumi, and
regional wines, this casual yet
chic marina restaurant will
transport you straight to
Southern Italy (see p97). d 2355
Chestnut St • Map E1 • (415) 771-2216 •
Dis. access • $$$$ Delfina
62 For a guide to restaurant price ranges See p91

& Tres Agaves
Fresh, inspired regional
Top 10 Romantic
Dinner Spots
cuisine, combined with a
dizzying choice of tequila
cocktails and margaritas make
! Garden Court
The stained-glass ceiling

and marble columns make this
for a great evening at this one of the most sumptuous
brightly painted Mexican restaurants. d Sheraton
restaurant in a converted Palace Hotel, 2 New Mont-
warehouse. d 130 Townsend St • gomery St • Map P5 • (415)
Map H3 • (415) 227-0500 • Dis. access 546-5089 • Dis. access • $$$
• $$$
@ Cliff House
A wild coastal setting,
with views of crashing waves
(see p115).
£ Acquerello
The black truffles are said
to be an aphrodisiac. d 1722
Sacramento St • Map N1 •
(415) 567-5432 • $$$$
$ Masa’s
Restaurant
French Mediterranean cuisine
in elegant surroundings. d
648 Bush St • Map 4N • (415)
Ahi Tuna 989-7154 • $$$$$
% Boulevard
* Aqua specializes in fish and
Aqua Belle époque decor and
extravagant food (see p113).
the must-have is the tartare of
ahi tuna. Gorgeous decor and ^ Caffè Centro
Popular with 20-
presentation. d 252 California St • Map something couples (see p113).
N6 • (415) 956-9662 • Closed Sat & Sun L
• Dis. access • $$$$$
& Chenery Park
Take a window seat
looking out onto the street for
( Foreign Cinema
In the courtyard, old movies
the maximum effect. d 683
Chenery St • Map F6 • (415)
are projected onto a neighboring 337-8537 • Dis. access • $$
building while you dine. You’d
think this gimmick might be the
whole story, but the food is also
* Fairmont
For lovers of kitsch, a
tropical rainforest setting
excellent. The oyster bar and awaits at this hotel’s Tonga
Sunday brunch on the patio are Room restaurant (see p71).
popular. d 2534 Mission St • Map F5
• (415) 648-7600 • Dis. access • $$$
( Lark Creek Inn
One of the loveliest garden
settings on the Bay (see p129).
) Thep Phanom
The city’s top Thai restaurant
) Chez Panisse
with nearly a hundred dishes on The birthplace of Cal-Med
the menu and at least 20 cuisine. Book weeks ahead. d
specials. d 400 Waller Street, near 1517 Shattuck Ave, Berkeley
• Hwy 80 • (510) 548-5525
Duboce Park • Map F4 • (415) 431-2526 • • Dis. access • $$$$$
Dis. access • $$

Left Caffè Trieste Right Café Flore
Cafés
! Café Claude
The owner actually bought £ Dolores Park Café
Across the street from
Le Barbizon Café in Paris and historic Mission Dolores, this
shipped it over piece by piece. funky neighborhood café has it
That accounts for the authentic all – great views of Dolores Park,
French feel of this back-alley filling breakfast and lunch fare,
bistro-like spot near Union Square, home-made smoothies, freshly
where francophiles rendezvous baked pastries, and a cool spot
to imagine themselves on the to people-watch in the heart of
Left Bank. The food, too, is the Mission district. Don’t miss
suitably Gallic, and there’s live the live music on Friday nights.
jazz on weekends. d 7 Claude Lane d 501 Dolores St • Map F5 • (415) 621-
between Grant & Kearny, Sutter & Bush 2936 • Dis. access
• Map P4 • (415) 392-3505 • Dis. access
@ Caffè Trieste $ South Park Café

Overlooking the small SoMa
A North Beach landmark park favored by the younger,
that must be experienced if you slacker digital set, you can while
have any interest whatsoever in away an hour or two just taking
this quarter’s colorful history – in the relaxed setting in the
either from the literary and knowledge that you’re in a
artistic or the Italian points of certifiably hip locale. French food
view. It’s a great place for a cup and waiters support the Parisian
of whatever warm liquid you illusion to the best of their
favor, and to sit and people-watch, ability. d 108 South Park St between
or dip into one of the city’s free 2nd & 3rd • Map H3 • (415) 495-7275
weekly papers (see p90). • Dis. access
% Brainwash
Café, bar, performance
space, and, yes, laundromat, it’s
got everything the young apart-
ment dwellers who live in this
industrial SoMa neighborhood
need. Frequented by lesbians,
gays, and straights – in short, the
whole range of San Franciscans.
There’s also a menu composed
of solid international standards,
such as a great cobb salad, tofu
stir-fry, and chicken quesadilla. d
1122 Folsom St at 7th • Map R3 • (415)
Café Claude 861-3663 • Dis. access
64
Top 10 Sunday
Brunch Venues
! Dottie’s True Blue Café
A Tenderloin tradition –

stand in line for the American
breakfasts. d 522 Jones St
• Map P3 • Dis. access •
Closed Tue
@ Sears Fine Food

A Union Square institu-
tion, noted for its silver-dollar
pancakes (see p91).
Brainwash
£ Ella’s
Expect lines at this break-
^ Atlas Café
This enclave features live
fast haven, specializing in
chicken hash and banana
acoustic music on Thursday night pancakes. d 500 Presidio Ave
and Saturday afternoon. Other- • Map E3 • Dis. access
wise, it’s a cheap place to grab a
bite. d 3049 20th St at Alabama • Map $ Mama’s on
Washington Square
G5 • (415) 648-1047 • Dis. access
The greatest French toast in
town. d 1701 Stockton St
& Café Flore

Gay-central, this place, with
• Map L4 • Dis. access
patio seating and cozy indoor % Miss Millie’s

A favorite brunch venue
tables, is an institution (see p69). with splendid fare, especially
d 2298 Market St at Noe • Map F5 big cinnamon buns. d 4123
• (415) 621-8579 • Dis. access 24th St • Map E6 • Dis. access
* Zuni Café ^ It’s Tops Coffee Shop

A classic diner – their
Go for the legendary flapjacks are famously good.
hamburger or the delectable brick d 1801 Market St • Map F4
oven-roasted chicken at this
eatery, popular for three
decades. d 1658 Market St • Map F4 •
& Kelly’s Mission Rock
Enjoy the old SoMa port
while eating a variety of egg-
(415) 552-2522 • Closed Mon • Dis. access
based dishes. d 817 China
Basin • Map H4 • Dis. access
( Blue Danube
Popular with locals, this cozy * Kate’s Kitchen
Huge portions of breakfast
café serves up great coffee,
specialties, including a “French
healthy smoothies, hearty Toast Orgy”. d 471 Haight St
sandwiches, and cool • Map F4 • Dis. access
atmosphere. d 306 Clement St • Map
D3 • (415) 221-9041 • Dis. access
( Chloe’s Café
Banana or pecan pancakes,
and cinnamon French toast. d
) Papa Toby’s Revolution
Café and Artbar
1399 Church St at 26th • Map F6
Regulars nurse micro-brewed

beers or their favorite coffee,
) The Depot
This café and bookstore is
and indulge in great pastries. housed in an old train depot.
d 87 Throckmorton Ave, Mill
d 3248 22nd St at Bartlett • Map F5 Valley, Marin County • Dis. access
• (415) 642-0474
There are several cruises each weekend around the Bay, offering 65
champagne brunches. Telephone (415) 788-9100 for details.
Left Vesuvio Right Nova Bar
Bars
! Bubble Lounge
Right in historic Jackson
and sit on the narrow balcony,
from which you can survey the
Square, this upscale, multi- action below. d 255 Columbus Ave
roomed champagne bar features • Map M4 • (415) 362-3370
around 300 bubblies on its list.
The main room is very beautiful,
in a traditionally clubby sort of $ Americano Bar
The outdoor patio is the big
way (see p90). draw at this uber-chic, buzzing
bar filled with beautiful people.
@ Nova Bar
A hip little bar in the SOMA
The views will amaze, as will the
drinks and the inviting sleek
neighborhood with modern, interior space. Try the plum
trendy decor. The bartenders are mojito and the baked goat’s
friendly and the atmosphere is cheese, but beware of the pricey
relaxed and inviting. Try one of bill. d 8 Mission St • Map H2 • (415)
their constantly changing range 278-3777 • Dis. access
of tasty infused vodkas. Great
place for a drink after work. Easy
parking. d 555 2nd Street • Map H3 • % Mecca
This dolled-up industrial
(415) 543-2282 • Dis. access space attracts some of the
Castro’s prettiest men, including
£ Vesuvio
This landmark watering hole
the occasional drag queen,
around the glowing circular bar,
was a major Beat and hippie with red velvet and chiffon
gathering place and attempts to drapery. It’s also a supper club
carry on the alternative tradition featuring New American cuisine.
amid the stained-glass, psyche- d 2029 Market St • Map F4 • (415) 621-
delic décor. Check out the literary 7000 • Dis. access
and other memorabilia on the walls
^ Edinburgh Castle Pub

A hugely happening place
incorporating live indie music, a
fish ‘n’ chips delivery service, as
well as darts, pool, and general
carousing in the Scottish manner.
d 950 Geary St • Map P2 • (415) 885-4074
& Medjool
This funky Mission lounge
is decked out in orange, red,
and gold. The Mediterranean
wines combine perfectly with
Bubble Lounge tapas-style dishes. Be sure to

Top 10 San Francisco
Tipples
!Cabernet Sauvignon
This full-bodied red, with

overtones of blackcurrant, is a
Bay Area favorite. Try the
Robert Mondavi Winery.
@ Chardonnay
Of the whites, this is the
most popular, fermented in
Mecca French oak barrels, lending it
smooth vanilla tones. Try
venture upstairs to the rooftop Sterling Vineyards (see p32).
terrace where panoramic views
of the city await you. At night, £ Other Red Wines
Pinot Noir, Merlot, and
DJs play club music with a Zinfandel are giving Cabernet
Persian feel. d 2522 Mission St • Sauvignon some healthy
Map F5 • (415) 550-9055 • Dis. access competition of late.
* Ruby Skye $ Other White Wines

Sauvignon Blanc, White
A Victorian playhouse has Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, and
been restored in lavish high-tech Pinot Grigio are whites that
coolness, incorporating a capti- can tempt you away from the
vating blend of Art Nouveau and Chardonnay grape.
Dali-esque Modernism. And
where else can you see trapeze % Sparkling Wines
Top French wine producers
acts on a Saturday night or puff such as Mumm and Moët &
cigars in a private billiards room? Chandon have set up wineries
If you want to fit in, wear in the Napa Valley (see
designer gear. d 420 Mason St • pp32–3).
Map P3 • (415) 693-0777 • Dis. access
^ Cocktails
Mojitos – white rum, ice
( Relax and enjoy inspired

Destino and fresh mint – are an old
standby still going strong.
“Nuevo Latino” cuisine and
cocktails, from coconut mojitos & Beers and Ales
Local breweries abound in
to passion fruit caipirinhas. This the Bay Area, such as Anchor
place exudes a special energy Steam Beer (see p109).
and serves the best mojitos in
town. d 1815 Market St • Map F4 * Tea
A huge range of infusions,
• (415) 552-4451 • Dis. access springing from the healthy
attitude that dominates here.
) Lefty O’Doul’s
Opened in 1958 by the local ( Coffee
Many more ways to drink
baseball legend, this Downtown
your coffee than there are in
landmark is a cafeteria-style all of Europe – latte is still the
sports bar with live piano music. blend of choice.
Good fun when the old crowd
starts on their renditions of even
older show tunes. d 333 Geary St
) Mineral Water
The top local brand comes
from, and takes its name from
at Powell • Map P4 • (415) 902-8900 Calistoga in the Napa Valley.
• Dis. access
67
Left The Midnight Sun Right Eagle Tavern
Gay and Lesbian Venues

! The Midnight Sun
This popular, posy video bar £ Twin Peaks
Conveniently located on
fills up quickly after office hours the corner of Market Street,
and stays that way until the wee this legendary and distinctive
hours. Mostly good-looking 20- tavern offers one of the best
and 30-somethings, it’s more views of the Castro, whether
about being admired than making by day or night. The interior is
connections here, so it’s best to a Moroccan-style, pillowed
go with a friend or two, have a triangular space with plate-glass
drink, and then move on to some windows. d 401 Castro St • Map E5
livelier venue. The videos are a • (415) 864-9470
mix of music clips and TV sitcoms.
d 4067 18th St • Map E5 • (415) 861-4186
$ Eagle Tavern
Bikers and leather boys still
@ Moby Dick
This old-time Castro hangout
rule at this venerable SoMa dive.
Come to revel in the beer-
attracts a more mature crowd. busting, testosterone-filled
It’s generally a bunch of regulars atmosphere. The back patio gets
getting together for pinball or going on Sunday afternoons and
pool – or gazing at the aquarium Thursdays feature free perfor-
over the bar. The windows are mances by local bands, usually
big, so you can keep track of grunge. d 398 12th St • Map G4
what’s going down on the street. • (415) 626-0880
The music is largely 1980s retro
that sets a fun-loving tone. d 4049
18th St • Map E5 • www.mobydicksf.com % The Lion Pub
The city’s oldest gay bar is
also its most upscale. It attracts
the more yuppified denizens of
the gay community who
appreciate the stylish renovated
Victorian in which it is housed.
There’s interesting music, a great
fireplace, free food at Happy
Hour, and hobnobbing with a
wealthier clientele. d 2062
Divisadero St at Sacramento • Map E3
• (415) 567-6565
^ Harvey’s
Named in honor of the slain
gay leader Harvey Milk (see
p39), this is the ideal place to
Moby Dick get to know the look and feel of
68 As well as the Castro District, Polk Street (see p85) is also a

popular gay area in the city.
* Badlands
Its old, dingy interior used to
live up to its menacing name,
but no more since it has gone all
slick and shiny. Still, it’s a big

draw for the under-40 set. The
Sunday afternoon beer bust
(4–9pm) is, for many, the most
happening event of the week. d
4121 18th St • Map E5 • (415) 626-9320
The Lion Pub ( Café Flore

Not just a daytime cruising
and coffee venue, but also by
the Castro. There’s lots of gay night a hopping spot. Lots of gay
memorabilia on the walls, the party people meet here first
staff is friendly, the ambiance before heading out for the really
easy-going, and not at all quirky late-night dancing, dark-room
or kinky. It’s the wholesome face clubbing, and what-not that goes
of gay San Francisco. d 500 Castro on all around the area (see p65).
St at 18th • Map E5 • (415) 431-4278
& With its decor of glass and

Martuni’s ) Lexington Club
The only full-time “girl” bar
in the city, amazingly, set in a
chrome and the regulars’ subset Mission District
penchant for singing old torch neighborhood that has been on
songs, this is a very retro piano the rise recently as a lesbian
bar for an older gay crowd. It’s a enclave. Young pierced sylphs,
magnet for butch guys, drag 40-something professionals, and
queens, and straights, too – any- even straight women frequent
one who likes a good sing-along this fun “down-home, divey den
– or who doesn’t mind embaras- for dykes,” as one devotee
sing themselves. d 4 Valencia St at dubbed it. d 3464 19th St at Valencia
Market • Map F4 • (415) 241-0205 • Map F5 • (415) 863-2052

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The Lexington may be the only full-time lesbian bar at present 69

but all the male gay bars welcome women.
Left Bambuddha Lounge Right Milk Bar
Nightlife
! Bambuddha Lounge
The sumptuous restaurant £ Club Six
The terribly seedy southern
in this ultra-hip nightclub serves Tenderloin/SoMa location can be
Southeast Asian cuisine, from a major drawback late at night,
delectable small plates (most but once inside you can join the
under $15) to larger dishes. The diverse crowd in dancing to
interior is an eclectic mix of some righteous DJs in the roomy
modern slate fireplaces and floor- downstairs area. The music tends
to-ceiling waterfalls, with a retro toward house, trance, or what-
cocktail lounge and Asian artifacts. ever gets people moving. Or
Bambuddha boasts a poolside head upstairs to the high-ceilinged,
dining area, and couples enjoy comfortable lounge to relax and
the intimate corners and low chat. d 60 6th St between Market &
tables for private conversations. Mission • Map Q3 • (415) 863-1221
d Phoenix Hotel, 601 Eddy St, between
Larkin & Polk • Map Q2 • (415) 885-5088
$ Pink
Located in a nondescript
@ Ten 15 Folsom
You’d never know that this
no-man’s-land just on the edge
of SoMa and the Mission, crowds
inconspicuous, windowless are drawn by this club’s word-of-
building houses one of the city’s mouth reputation. World-class
most elaborate disco- DJs play here, catering to
extravaganzas. It features big- diverse audiences that enjoy
name DJs in a huge, SoMa music and dance. The elegant
multi-environment space, laid out interior with flowers and white
on three levels. Don’t expect drapes adds to the ambience. d
anything to happen of any 2925 16th St between Mission & South
significance until after Van Ness • Map F4 • (415) 431-8889
midnight (see p111).
% Harry Denton’s
Starlight Room
Something for the 40-plus set, or
even 50-plus. Twenty-two stories
above Union Square, couples can
dance to cocktail jazz and the
milder R&B hits, and relax in the
easy sophistication of the place.
It’s 1930s-stylish, so consider it a
chance to dress up in suits and
party dresses, sip highballs, and
enjoy the city’s seductive lights.
d Sir Francis Drake Hotel, 450 Powell St
Ten 15 Folsom at Sutter • Map P4 • (415) 395-8595
70 For nightclubs in the Southern neighborhoods See p111

small, but that just adds to the
atmosphere. Don’t miss the 80s
night on Fridays or the reggae
night on Tuesdays. d 1840 Haight
St between Shrader & Stanyan • Map D4

• (415) 387-6455
( Punchline Comedy Club

A perfect alternative to bar-
hopping, there is no better venue
for a good laugh than this
Pink hilarious comedy club. National
acts (and local ones too) headline
^ Bimbo’s 365 Club

Whether you are into swing,
a fun evening in an intimate
setting. Buy tickets in advance
jazz, rock, or grunge, this San for assured seating. d 444 Battery
Francisco institution delivers. A St • Map M5 • (415) 397-7573
retro-chic yet unpretentious
music venue since 1931, this
hopping bar with glittering decor ) The Tonga Room &
Hurricane Bar
and old-school feel brings in all This Nob Hill tiki bar is almost
the top acts. d 1025 Columbus Ave • Disneyesque in its tropical effects,
Map K3 • (415) 474-0365 including indoor monsoons and a
floating band. Aimed at grown-
& Supperclub
If ultra-chic surroundings are
ups of every age, it delivers kitschy
Polynesian dazzlement, and is
what you are looking for, then often chosen as the venue for
this is the club for you – San birthday celebrations. Weekday
Francisco at its trendiest. It award-winning Happy Hour (5–
attracts a young and sexy crowd, 7pm) includes an Asian buffet at
and the lighting and music are nominal cost. d Fairmont Hotel, 950
techno-cool. A unique feature is Mason St • Map N3 • (415) 772-5278
the beds, which just
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Left Joggers in Golden Gate Park Right Surfers
Outdoor Activities
! Swimming
The icy waters of the Bay $ Skateboarding
Skateboard ramps are
are an option only if you’re a wherever you make them in this
polar bear or an indomitable city – along Market Street in the
surfer. Most visitors will want to Financial District, in one of the
head for a pool – try the Embar- dozens of parks, or on any plaza.
cadero YMCA. d Embarcadero YMCA: Protection against the inevitable
169 Steuart St; (415) 957-9622 • Map H2 vagaries of flying around on
• www.ymcasf.org wheels means you should gear
up appropriately. d DLX: 1831
@ Hiking
The Bay Area is replete with
Market St; Map F4 • FTC Skateboarding:
622 Shrader St; Map D4
magnificent hiking trails for every
type of nature-lover. Land’s End
offers some wild terrain to % Running
Now that Crissy Field’s
scramble over (see p117), and restoration is complete, the
Mount Tamalpais is criss-crossed Golden Gate Promenade (see
with trails (see p124). But just p97) is an inspiring run. And, of
scaling the city’s hills is enough course, Golden Gate Park offers
hiking for most people. endless opportunities for jogging.
If organized running is your
£ In-line Skating
Golden Gate Park and in-line
thing, try the Bay to Breakers or
the San Francisco Marathon.
skaters make a perfect match, d Bay to Breakers: 3rd Sun in May; (415)
especially on Sundays, when the 359-2800; www.baytobreakers.com • San
main street in the park is closed Francisco Marathon: Jul; (415) 284-9653
to cars. Or try the path that runs • www.runsfm.com
along Marina Green for smoothly
paved surfaces.
^ Tennis
Free public tennis courts
abound in the city. Contact the
Recreation and Park Department
for the one nearest you. Golden
Gate Park has 21 courts, for
which a small fee is charged, but
you can book in advance. Most
public outdoor courts are open
from sunrise to sunset. Indoor
courts are the purview of private
tennis clubs, with membership
required. d San Francisco Recreation
and Park Department: (415) 831-2700
In-line skater in Golden Gate Park • Golden Gate Park: (415) 753-7001
72 You can rent in-line skates from Skates on Haight, at

1818 Haight Street; tel. (415) 752-8375; www.skatesonhaight.com
Top 10 Spectator
Sports
! SF 49ers
The National Football

League team strut their stuff
from September to January.
d Monster Park • (415) 656-
4900
@ SF Giants
The city’s baseball team
plays from April to October.
Lincoln Park Golf Course d AT&T Park, 24 Willie Mays
Plaza • (415) 972-2000
^ Golf
The Lincoln Park 18-hole £ Golden State Warriors
An NBA basketball team.
course overlooks Land’s End, d The Arena in Oakland, 7000
Golden Gate Park has a Coliseum Way, Oakland
challenging 9-hole course, and • (510) 986-2222
the lovely Presidio Golf Course is
considered one of the country’s $ Oakland Athletics
Members of the American
best. d Lincoln Park: (415) 221-9911 Football League, and historic
• Golden Gate Park: (415) 751-8987 winners in the 1970s.
• Presidio Golf Course: (415) 561-4661
% Oakland Raiders
Members of the American
* Boating
Sailing, rowing and kayaking
Football League.
are all great here, although far

from a cakewalk on the Bay’s ^ Golden Gate Fields
The East Bay venue for
unpredictable waters and horse-racing. d 1100 East-
sometimes ferocious prevailing shore Highway, Albany
• (510) 559-7300
winds. Play it nice and easy by
taking a boat out on Stow Lake
in Golden Gate Park (see p21). & Bay Meadows
Racecourse
Take the CalTrain to this
seasonal racetrack. d 2600
( Extreme Sports
Surfing here requires great
S Delaware St, San Mateo
• (650) 574-7223
fortitude and is not for begin-
ners. The same goes for wind-
surfing on the Bay. Hang-gliding
* Infineon Raceway
Superbike and auto-racing
can be tackled by novices under in the Sonoma Valley.
d Hwys 37 & 121, Sonoma
guidance. d San Francisco Hang- • (707) 938-8448
Gliding Center • (510) 528-2300
( San Jose Sharks

Fast-paced ice hockey.
) Biking
Although the hills’ amazing d HP Pavilion, 525 West
Santa Clara St, San Jose
grades overwhelm all but those • 1-800-888-2736
with legs of steel, bicycling is
very big in San Francisco. Don’t
miss biking across the Golden
) Sacramento Monarchs
Women’s basketball team.
Gate Bridge. Rent bikes from d Arco Arena, 1 Sports
Parkway, Sacramento
City Cycle. d City Cycle: 3001 Steiner • (916) 928-0000
St • (415) 346-2242 • www.citycycle.com
Hot-air balloon flights in the Napa Valley, followed by a 73

champagne brunch, are available; tel. 1-800-464-6824 for details.
Left Carnaval Right St. Patrick’s Day Parade
Festivals and Parades

! St. Patrick’s Day Parade
With its large Irish popula-
its best for the glittery event.
Groups work all year long, with
tion, not to mention the 25 or so the help of municipal grants, to
Irish pubs scattered around create their dazzling costumes
town, the St. Patrick’s Day and put together their infec-
Parade and the revelry that tiously rhythmic routines, all to a
follows deep into the night is samba, rumba, or salsa beat.
one of the city’s largest celebra- d Mission District • Last weekend in May
tions. The parade journeys from
5th and Market streets to the
Embarcadero. d Sun before Mar 17 % Pride Celebration Parade
More than 300,000 people
attend this amazing gay event,
@ Cherry Blossom Festival

Japantown (see p99) comes
the largest of its kind in the US,
that takes over Market Street,
spectacularly to life when the from the Embarcadero to the
cherry trees blossom. Traditional Civic Center. It’s up to four hours
arts and crafts, taiko drumming, of Dykes on Bikes, drag queens
martial arts demonstrations, and in nuns’ habits, leather-clad
dancing, as well as delicious clones, gay parents, gay
Japanese food make this one of marching bands, muscle men,
the city’s favorite celebrations. and much more. The floats – as
There’s also a colorful and well as the cheering throngs –
impressive parade. d Two are likely to be the most over-
weekends in Apr the-top, outlandish things you’ve
ever witnessed. d Sun in late Jun
£ Cinco de Mayo
Commemorating the defeat
of the French army at Puebla,
Mexico, in 1862, by General
Ignacio Zaragoza, this is one of
the Latino community’s biggest
annual festivals, featuring parades,
fireworks, music, and dancing. In
addition to the Civic Center,
much of the fun happens in the
Mission District. d Sun before May 5
$ Carnaval
Having nothing at all to do
with Lent or any other traditional
date, San Francisco’s Carnaval is
staged at the time of year when
the weather will most likely be at Performer, Pride Celebration Parade

Top 10 Fairs and
Gatherings
! Haight Street Fair
You’ll know hippiedom is

alive and well after attending
this Gathering of the Tribe.
d Early Jun
@ North Beach Festival

The city’s oldest street fair
features arts and crafts and
some great Italian food. d Jun
Chinese New Year
£ Fillmore Street
Jazz Festival
^ Independence Day
This waterfront festival, held Playing up the jazz heritage of
this neighborhood, with crafts
from Aquatic Park to Pier 39, and live music. d Early Jul
involves live entertainment, food
stalls, and state-of-the-art
fireworks launched from several
$ Renaissance
Pleasure Faire
points along the Bayfront. If it’s This delightful event recreates
Elizabethan England, with all
foggy, the bursts of light seem its ribaldry and rowdiness.
that much more romantic. d Jul 4 d Late Aug–early Oct: Sat–Sun
& Stern Grove Festival

A much loved San
% Burning Man
One event that defies
description. It is group perfor-
Franciscan tradition, this festival mance art on a behemoth
showcases every kind of music scale. d 1st weekend Sep
you can name (see p116). d Sun,
early Jun–late Aug
^ Ghirardelli Square
Chocolate Festival
A chocaholic’s dream, with
* Exotic Erotic Ball
Just as outrageous as the
the chance to sample various
nibbles. d Early Sep
title suggests, this indoor
masquerade ball is reputedly the
world’s largest. d Cow Palace: 2600
& Folsom Street Fair
One of the biggest events
for the gay community is
Geneva Ave, Daly City • (415) 334-6700 • SoMa’s leather-and-body-hair
Late Oct carousal. d Last Sun Sep
( Hallowe’en
This Castro party is a time for
* Castro Street Fair
A build-up to Hallowe’en,
it focuses attention on every-
dress-up, dress-down, or undress, day gay life. d Early Oct
as the case may be; let your
imagination run away with you as
you join the gay fray. d Oct 31
( Tet Festival
A multicultural party, but
mainly Vietnamese-American.
d Jan–Feb
) Chinese New Year
This is the biggest Chinese
) Tribal, Folk, & Textile
New Year celebration outside Arts Show
Asia. It incorporates traditional An arts and crafts fair at the
displays and the parade of dragons Fort Mason Center, offering
pottery, jewelry, textiles, and
and performers that winds more. d Early Feb
through Chinatown. d Jan or Feb
The best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks are 75
Crissy Field or from Telegraph Hill – but expect large crowds.
Left Baker Beach Right Half Moon Bay
Beaches
! Bolinas Beach
This hidden-away Marin
Francisco. Both are sandy curves
within their own coves, protec-
beach tends to be windy and is ted from wind and prying eyes
mostly used by dog-walkers, and by rocky cliffs. The only caveat is
kayakers. It’s sandy, with a back- that you’ll need sturdy walking
drop of rocky cliffs. If you walk shoes to get down the rough
north, you’ll find warmer nooks paths that lead to them from the
and crannies out of the wind, parking lots. d Muir Beach: off Hwy 1
where some sun-worshipers on Pacific Way • Red Rock: 5.5 miles (9
bask in the nude, although there km) north of Muir on Pacific Way
is a rarely enforced city
ordinance against it (see p124).
$ Baker Beach
This one-mile (1.5-km)
@ Stinson Beach
Three miles (5 km) of sand
stretch of sandy beach, with its
perfect views of the Golden Gate
make this one of the most popu- Bridge, is the most popular in
lar beaches in the Bay Area, the city. It’s great for sunbathing,
coupled with the fact that Marin dog-walking, picnicking or jog-
often has fine weather when the ging, but signs warn off swim-
rest of the coast is covered in mers because of riptides. Sunsets
fog. As a result, it can be here are unforgettable. d Map C2
crowded when the sun comes
out (see p124).
% China Beach
Officially called James D.
£ Muir and
Red Rock Beaches
Phelan Beach, this is the poshest
beach in San Francisco, being an
These two beaches, just south adjunct to the exclusive Sea Cliff
of Stinson, are the most famous neighborhood. Despite its
nude beaches north of San pedigree, however, California law
requires that all
coastal areas remain
public, although access
roads to them can be
private. China Beach
is small and protected
from the wind, there’s
plenty of parking, and
it’s a pleasant walk
down to the sand.
Once there, you’ll find
showers and even
changing rooms.
Muir Beach d Map B2
76 Note: Swimming is not advisable at most Bay Area beaches

because of the cold water and the riptides.
( San Gregorio Beach
Part of San Gregorio Beach,
11.5 miles (18.5 km) south of
Half Moon Bay, is clothing-
optional, but it requires a good

hike down the cliffs to get to.
The entire stretch is partly state
park, and includes a protected,
driftwood-strewn estuary at the
back of a wide, sandy beach,
with grassy bluffs along the
Land’s End coast. All along there are
protected areas and inlets. The
^ Land’s End
Although extremely beautiful
estuary is home to many birds
and small animals (see p127).
in a wild, untouched way, this
tiny, rocky beach is only for the
hardiest nature-lovers. It’s quite a ) Pescadero Beach
This beach has a 1-mile
hike to get here, although taking (1.5-km) shoreline with sandy
the trail up above it is quite a bit coves, rocky cliffs, tide pools,
easier than going by the lower, surf-fishing spots, and picnic
coastal trail. Many habitués have facilities. Across the highway is
built little sun-traps for them- Pescadero Marsh Natural
selves, by piling up rocks to wall- Preserve, a popular area for bird-
in their patches of sand (see watchers and other naturalists,
p115). d Map A3 being a refuge for blue heron,
kites, deer, raccoons, foxes and
& Ocean Beach

Some 4 miles (6.5 km) long
skunks. The beach is 14.5 miles
(23.3 km) south of Half Moon
and quite broad, this is the city’s Bay on Highway 1 (see p127).
largest beach by far, but probably
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77
Left Coastal beach Right Monterey harbor
Day Trips from the City

! Wine Country
Taking at least a day to £ Monterey
This town is renowned for
drive up into the Napa-Sonoma its world-class aquarium, the
hill country should be on Monterey Jazz and Blues
everyone’s list. Not only is the Festivals, and Cannery Row,
countryside beautiful, but you made famous by author John
can also sample some of the Steinbeck, who described it
best wines in the world, and as a collection of sardine
dip into the restorative canneries and whorehouses.
volcanic hot springs that California Established by the Spanish in
feed the area (see pp32–5). wine 1770, Monterey was the first
capital of California (see p36)
@ Muir Woods
At the foot of Mount
– some early buildings survive.
d Monterey Bay Aquarium • Open
Tamalpais (see p124), this 550- 9:30am–6pm daily • (831) 648-4800 • Dis.
acre woodland is home to one of access • Adm • www.mbayaq.org
the few remaining first-growth
groves of redwoods. The oldest
of these giants is at least 1,000 $ Big Basin State Park,
Boulder Creek
years old, and such trees once Highway 9 is one of the most
covered the coastal area of picturesque drives in the Bay
California. The woods are named Area, winding its way among the
in honor of John Muir, the 19th- green Santa Cruz Mountains and
century conservationist (see through little towns where
p39). d Muir Woods National nothing much changes. Although
Monument • Open 8am–sunset daily it’s minutes from Silicon Valley,
• Adm • (415) 388-2595 • www.nps.gov/ life has a backwoods feel here.
muwo/
% Stanford University
Just 30 minutes south of the
city, with a CalTrain depot right
at the main gates, the palm-lined
beauties of this campus make it
worth a trip. The visual motif of
sandstone and red-tile roofs has
been carried forward since the
Romanesque Quadrangle was
built in the late 1800s. The ornate
carvings that decorate the arches
and pillars are extraordinarily
lovely, setting off the elaborate
mosaic that graces the façade of
Muir Woods Memorial Church (see p125).
78 The Oceanic Society conducts expeditions to the annual gray

whale migration. Contact (415) 474-3385 for details.
^ Carmel
Carmel-By-The-Sea was
founded as an artists’ colony in
the early 1900s, and is now one
of the most exclusive commu-

nities in the world – having
recently boasted actor Clint
Eastwood as its mayor. Its old
Spanish mission, one of the 21
built along the coast (see p30) is
considered California’s most
beautiful. d Carmel Mission: 3080 Rio
Rd • Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat;
10:30am–5pm Sun • (831) 624-1271 • Carmel Mission
Adm • www.carmelmission.org
& At least 20 different beaches

Coastal Beaches ) Saratoga and Los Gatos
Both of these towns, in the
hills above Silicon Valley, have
line Highway 1 south of San retained their frontier quality. One
Francisco. Some of the best of the best things to do, other
include Gray Whale Cove, Montara than drive the scenic roads, is to
State Beach, Miramar Beach and visit Hakone Gardens, a beautiful
El Granada Beach, Roosevelt Japanese park (see p127).
Beach, Dunes Beach, Francis d Hakone Gardens: 21000 Big Basin Way,
Beach, Poplar Beach, Pelican Saratoga • (408) 741-4994 • Open 10am–
Point Beach, Cowell Ranch State 5pm Mon–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat–Sun • Adm
Beach, Martin’s Beach, San • www.hakone.com
Gregorio Beach, Pescadero State 6RQRPD 1DSD
Beach, Bean Hollow State Beach,
and Pebble Beach. 1RYDWR

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is also here (see p127).

AROUND
TOWN
Downtown
82–91

The North Shoreline
92–97
Central
Neighborhoods
98–105
Southern
Neighborhoods
106–113
Oceanfront
114–121
The Bay Area
122–129
Around Town – Downtown
Left Bank of California, Financial District Right City Hall, Civic Center
Downtown
T HE DOWNTOWN AREA IS SMALL BUT HIGHLY VARIEGATED, including

some of the city’s oldest and newest landmarks, as well as some of its
most exotic and eccentric neighborhoods. Colorful Chinatown, exuberant
North Beach, posh Nob and Russian
Hills, run-down Polk Street, the bustling
Financial District, the graceful Ferry
Building, and the noble architecture and
cultural venues of the Civic Center – all
these and more are packed into San
Francisco’s heart. This is where you can
ride the legendary cable cars on their
most scenic routes (see pp10–11), and
don’t forget to climb up Telegraph Hill,
where Coit Tower stands as one of the
city’s most loved landmarks, competing
successfully with the Transamerica
Pyramid not far away. Chinatown
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! Chinatown
Since its beginnings in the
1850s, this densely populated
neighborhood has held its own
powerful cultural identity despite

every threat and cajolery. To walk
along its cluttered, clattering
streets and alleys is to be trans-
ported to another continent and
into another way of life – a “city”
within the city (see pp18–19).
@ Grace Cathedral
Inspired by French Gothic
Nob Hill
architecture yet constructed of name has become synonymous

reinforced concrete, these with wealth and power. The 1906
contradictory qualities have given earthquake, however, left only
rise to one of the city’s best- one “palace” standing, now the
loved landmarks (see pp24–5). Pacific Union Club, which still
proudly dominates the center of
£ North Beach
This lively neighborhood is
the summit. Today, instead of
private manses, Nob Hill is home
the city’s original “Little Italy” to the city’s fanciest hotels (see
and is still noted for its great p142) and apartment buildings,
Italian restaurants and cafés, as well as Grace Cathedral.
mostly lined up along and near d Map N3
Columbus Avenue. In the 1950s,
it was also a magnet for the Beat
writers and poets, notably Jack % Russian Hill
Another of San Francisco’s
Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg (see precipitous heights, one side of
pp52–3), who brought to the which is so steep you’ll find no
area a Bohemian style which it street at all, only steps. The
still sports today. This is a most famous feature of this hill
great place for nightlife, from the is the charming Lombard Street
tawdry bawdiness of Broadway switchback – “The World’s
strip joints to the simple Crookedest Street,” – which
pleasures of listening to a attests to the hill’s
mezzo-soprano while you notoriously unmanageable
sip your cappuccino (see inclines (see p61). As
p88). d Map L4 with Nob Hill, with the
cable car’s advent,
$ Nob Hill
With the advent of
Russian Hill was claimed
by the wealthy, and it
the cable car, San maintains a lofty position in
Francisco’s highest hill was San Francisco society to
quickly peopled with the this day. It supposedly took
elaborate mansions of its name from the burial
local magnates – in place of Russian fur traders,
particular, the “Big Four” who were among the first
who built the Trans- Europeans to ply their trade
continental railway Benjamin Franklin statue, at this port in the
(see p39) – and the North Beach early 1800s. d Map M2
83
The Making of a City
The Bay lay undiscovered by
& Civic Center
The city’s administrative
center is an excellent example of
Europeans until 1769, and for
years was little more than a
grand Beaux Arts taste and
Spanish mission village called illustrates San Franciscans’ pride
Yerba Buena, becoming Mexican in their city (see p46). It is

in 1821. The first great boost perhaps the most ambitious and
came when gold was discovered elaborate city center complex in
at Sutter’s Mill in 1848. Hundreds the US and it continues to
of thousands from all over the undergo enhancements. Besides
world came to try their luck in the
the imposing City Hall, with its
Gold Rush. At the same time, the
US took possession of the West
vast rotunda, gold-leaf detailing,
Coast. The Transcontinental and formal gardens, the area
Railway helped to firmly establish also includes the War Memorial
the area’s financial base. Opera House, the Louise M.
Davies Symphony Hall, the
Herbst Theater (see p56), the
^ Jackson Square
Renovated in the 1950s, this
State Building, the New Main
Library, and the monumental
neighborhood right next to the Old Main Library, re-inaugurated
Transamerica Pyramid (see p46) as the Asian Art Museum.
contains some of San Francisco’s d Map R1
oldest buildings. In the 19th
century the area was notorious
for its squalor, and was nick- * Union Square
After 18 months of construc-
named the “Barbary Coast,” but tion, this important square,
brothels and drinking establish- which gets its name from the
ments have given way today to pro-Union rallies held here in the
upscale offices and the city’s early 1860s, has a $25-million
most lavish antiques shops. The new look that includes perform-
blocks around Jackson Street ance spaces, grassy terraces,
and Hotaling Place feature many and improved parking. It is now
original brick, cast-iron, and the center for high-end shopping.
granite façades. d Map M5 Located with the edges of the
Financial District on one side and
the Theater District on the other
(see pp50–51), it is at its most
picturesque along Powell Street,
where the cable cars pass right
in front of the historic St Francis
Hotel (see p143). The column in
the center commemorates
Admiral Dewey’s victory at
Manila Bay during the Spanish-
American War of 1898. d Map P4
( Financial District
Montgomery Street, now
the heart of the Financial District,
was once lined with small shops
where miners came to weigh
Jackson Square their gold dust. It marks roughly
84 There are walking tours of the Financial District run by Hobnob

Tours; call (650) 851-1123 or visit www.hobnobtours.com
A Walk Around
North Beach
Morning
Start at the top of North

Beach, on Telegraph Hill
(see p88), admire the
famous views, and visit
Coit Tower (see p46),
making sure to take in the
murals. Next, walk down
to Filbert Street (see p88)
and go right a couple of
blocks until you get to
lovely Washington
Square, where, at Saints
Peter and Paul Catholic
Church, Marilyn Monroe
First Interstate Center, Financial District and local baseball great
Joe DiMaggio had their
wedding pictures taken
the old shoreline of shallow (see p88). Continue on
Yerba Buena Cove, which was along Columbus Avenue to
filled in during the Gold Rush to the left and pay a visit at
create more land. Today it is lined colorful Caffè Roma (see
p90), where you can
with early 20th-century banking
indulge in a bit of sidewalk
“temples” and modern fabri- ogling. Or, across the
cations of glass and steel. At the street, pay homage to the
end of Market Street stands the time-honored US
newly renovated Ferry Building, Restaurant (see p91)
which serves some of the
which once handled 100,000
best pasta in town.
commuters a day before the
city’s bridges were constructed, Afternoon
and is now a bustling meeting After lunch, take a left on
spot with cafés and artisan food Green Street and go over
shops. Its tower is inspired by one block to Upper Grant
the Moorish belfry of Seville (see p88), with its funky
shops and bars, a regular
Cathedral in Spain. d Map M5 hangout since the 1950s.
Turn right on to Vallejo
) Polk Street
Historically, the southern part
Street, where a visit to
the famous Caffè Trieste
(see p90) for a coffee and
of this street, known as “Polk
the authentic Bohemian
Gulch,” was the city’s first openly atmosphere is a must.
gay district, before the rise of the Continue on down
Castro in the 1970s (see p107). Columbus to William
Since then it has grown shabbier, Saroyan Place and at No.
but it still attracts younger gays to 12 you’ll find Specs’, an
exuberant bar filled with
its clubs, bars, and shops. Beat memorabilia. Finally,
However, this stretch is best just across Columbus at
avoided after dark. At the other No. 261 is the immortal
end, down from Russian Hill, Polk City Lights Bookstore
Street is one of the city’s (see p88), where you can
browse the Beat poetry
shopping and dining lures, with written by owner Lawrence
many fine choices to tempt a Ferlinghetti and friends.
discerning clientele. d Map Q1
Following pages: Chinese New Year parade, Chinatown 85
Left City Lights Bookstore Right Filbert Street Steps
North Beach Sights

! Telegraph Hill
Named after the semaphore ^ Broadway
Made famous in the 1960s
installed on its crest in 1850, the for its various adult entertain-
hill’s eastern side was dynamited ments, the offerings haven’t
to provide rocks for landfill. Steps changed much, though today
descend its slopes, lined with many venues are now more
gardens. At its summit stands mainstream. d Map M5
Coit Tower. d Map L5
@ North Beach Views & Upper Grant

Saloons, cafés, and bluesy
The panoramic views from music haunts give this northerly
both the hill and the top of the section of Grant Avenue a very
Coit Tower are justly celebrated. alternative feel. d Map L4
The wide arc sweeping from the
East Bay and the Bay Bridge to
Alcatraz and the Golden Gate * Caffè Trieste
If you’re in the quarter on a
Bridge is breathtaking. Saturday afternoon, don’t miss
the impromptu opera that takes
£ Coit Tower Murals

The frescoes were painted
place here. But any time is right
for this artists’ and writers’
by local artists in 1934, to provide gathering place (see p90).
jobs during the Depression (see
p47). The murals are socio-
political commentary yet are also ( Washington Square
This pretty park is lined with
appealing for their details of life Italian bakeries, restaurants and
in California at the time. d Map L5 bars. Don’t be surprised to see
practitioners of t’ai chi doing
$ Filbert Street Steps

The flowery descent down
their thing on the lawn every
morning. d Map L4
these rustic steps provides great
views of the Bay. d Map L5
) Saints Peter
& Paul Church
% City Lights Bookstore

The Beat poet Lawrence
Neo-Gothic in conception, with
an Italianesque façade, this
Ferlinghetti founded City church is also called the Italian
Lights in 1953. It’s a Cathedral and the Fisherman’s
great place to leaf Church, since many
through a few Italians who originally
volumes of poetry or lived in the neighbor-
the latest free papers hood made their living
to find out what’s on. by fishing (see p45).
d 261 Columbus Ave • Map d 666 Filbert St • Map L4
M4 • (415) 362-8193 Coit Tower • Open daily • Free
88 There are guided tours of North Beach’s Italian and Beat history,
food and culture. Contact the tourist office (see p132) for details.
Left Serge Sorokko Gallery Right W. Graham Arader III
Downtown Shopping
! Shreve & Co
A San Francisco original and
and other 20th-century greats,
such as Tapiès, Bacon, Twombly,
one of the city’s most elegant and Warhol. d 231 Grant Ave • Map
jewelers. In addition to gems set P4 • (415) 421-7770
in wonderful ways, you’ll also
find fine timepieces, Limoges
porcelain, and Lalique crystal. ^ Christopher-Clark Fine Art
Another gallery for modern
d 200 Post St at Grant • Map P4 • (415) European masters. A good stock
421-2600 • Dis. access of Bay Area artists, too. d 377
Geary Blvd • Map P4 • (415) 397-7781
@ One of Jackson Square’s

W. Graham Arader III • Dis. access
most appealing shops is like an

art museum, featuring fine & Aria
This hideaway is loaded with
antique prints. You can marvel at collectibles of all sorts. You’re
Audubon’s Birds of America, likely to discover anything from
ancient maps, and historic works. an old Buddha to an Art Deco
d 435 Jackson St, Jackson Square • Map lamp. d 1522 Grant Ave • Map L4
M5 • (415) 788-5115 • Dis. access • (415) 433-0219 • Dis. access
£ Wilkes Bashford
A San Francisco institution * The North Face
Another San Francisco origi-
for deluxe apparel by up-and- nal, you’ll find everything for the
coming local and international outdoor adventurer at this
designers. d 375 Sutter St • Map P4 popular chain. d 180 Post St • Map
• (415) 986-4380 • Dis. access P4 • (415) 433-3223 • Dis. access
$ Jeanine Payer
An innovative jewelry ( Wingard
If you like the decor of your
designer with a strong celebrity hotel, chances are some of the
following who creates pieces that touches have been supplied by
combine Old World craftsmanship this company. Lamps, bathroom
with contemporary design. d 762 accessories, and home accents
Market St • Map P4 • (415) 788-2414 • at wholesale prices. d 2127 Union
Dis. access St • Map F2 • (415) 345-1999 • Dis. access
% Serge Sorokko Gallery

If you’re in the market for ) New India Bazaar
A long-time local favorite for
something by one of the modern every sort of Indian-Pakistani
masters, this is an excellent spice and foodstuff. They also
place to browse. Important carry an array of Hindu religious
prints and other works by artifacts and Indian videos. d 1107
Picasso, Matisse, Mirò, Chagall, Polk St • Map P1 • (415) 928-4553
Check out the jewelry designs of Jeanine Payer at 89

www.jeaninepayer.com
Left Grand Café Right Tosca
Cafés and Bars

! Caffè Trieste
One of the most authentic & Bambuddha Lounge
This popular and trendy
cafés in town, rich with arty non- restaurant and nightclub is the
chalance (see p64). d 605 Vallejo St place to visit for fabulous
• Map M4 • (415) 982-2605 • Dis. access cocktails and hip beats. There is
a heated patio (see p70).
@ Tosca
Dating back to 1919, this
* Bubble Lounge
North Beach bar is a favorite with A champagne bar with room
celebrities. The jukebox plays opera after room of subdued lighting
arias. d 242 Columbus Ave • Map M4 and cozy corners (see p66).
• Closed L • (415) 986-9651 • Dis. access d 714 Montgomery St • Map M5
• (415) 434-4204 • Dis. access
£ Caffè Roma
You’re as likely to hear Italian
( Bix
here as you are English, not only Tucked into a Downtown
from the staff but from the alley, this sultry supper club
patrons. A friendly atmosphere in features potent cocktails and
which to enjoy an espresso and smooth jazz. d 56 Gold St between
eye passers-by. d 526 Columbus Ave Montgomery and Sansome • Map M5 •
• Map L4 • (415) 296-7662 • Dis. access (415) 433-6300
$ Pier 23
An expansive outside deck is ) The Irish Bank
Down a picturesque alley,
the main draw at this café on the this winning pub feels very Irish.
Embarcadero. The seafood will Tip a Guinness before the 5pm
delight, especially at such good yuppie rush to get the best taste
prices. d Pier 23 on Embarcadero • of its friendly vibes. d 10 Mark Lane,
Map M6 • (415) 362-5125 • Dis. access off Bush St • Map P4 • (415) 788-7152
% Grand Café &2

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2
1 ( 6 6
Geary St at Taylor • Map P3 • (415) 292-

67 5 (
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$FOUFS
• (415) 956-1710 • Dis. access

Price Categories
For a three-course $ under $20
meal for one with half $$ $20–$40
a bottle of wine (or $$$ $40–$55
equivalent meal), taxes $$$$ $55–$80
and extra charges. $$$$$ over $80

Above Yank Sing
Places to Eat
! The Dining Room
The setting, the service, and & Capp’s Corner
Serves one of the most
the food all live up to the Ritz authentic minestrones outside of
name (see p62). d Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Italy. d 1600 Powell St • Map L4 • (415)
600 Stockton Street • Map P4 • (415) 989-2589 • Dis. access • $$
773-6198 • Dis. access • $$$$$
@ Tommy Toy’s Haute * Sears Fine Food

This 1950s retro coffee shop
Cuisine Chinoise is famous for its breakfasts, and
This elegant institution serves is always good for a quick fill-up
marvelous fare in a sumptuous (see p65). d 439 Powell St • Map P4
setting. The cuisine is a melding • (415) 986-0700/1160 • Dis. access • $
of Chinese and French. d 655
Montgomery St • Map N5 • (415) 397-
4888 • Dis. access • $$$$ ( Tadich Grill
A favorite since 1849, Tadich
serves classics such as clam
£ Superb seafood is the draw

Farallon chowder. Brusque staff add
some fun to the atmosphere.
at this restaurant with an d 240 California St • Map N5 • (415) 391-
enchanting undersea-themed 1849 • Dis. access • $$$
decor (see p62). d 450 Post St
between Mason and Powell • Map P3 •
(415) 956-6969 • $$$$$ ) Yank Sing
The dim sum here will not
disappoint – Yank Sing is famous
$ The views of the Bay’s lights

One Market for its signature Shanghai
dumplings, with over 60 varieties
are spectacular at night, and the on offer. Weekday lunchtimes can
food is memorable. d 1 Market St at be crowded. d 101 Spear St • Map H2
Steuart • Map N6 • (415) 777-5577 • (415) 957-9300 • Dis. access • $$$
• Closed Sun • Dis. access • $$$$
&2
/8
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Slanted Door 6
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2
ultra-modern setting. d 1 Ferry 75((7

*7 2 1 6
:$ 6 + , 1
Building • Map H2 • (415) 861-8032 • Dis. (7
67 5 ( &NCBSDBEFSP
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d 515 Columbus Ave • Map L4 • (415) $JWJD

$FOUFS
397-5200 • $$
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 91

cards and serve vegetarian meals
Around Town – The North Shoreline
Left Logo, Fort Mason Center Right Hyde Street Pier, The Embarcadero
The North Shoreline

A S ITS NAME SUGGESTS, the Bayshore area spreads out along the Bay at
the northern edge of the city, faces the islands, and enjoys
unforgettable views of both the Bay and Golden Gate Bridges. Historically,
the city began its life here, when the Spanish set up a military outpost at the
Presidio in 1776. More history can be found at the piers of the northern
Embarcadero, including now heavily commercialized Pier 39 and Fisherman’s
Wharf, where San Francisco’s fishing industry began in the 19th century. But
also part of the area is the smart Marina District, with its swanky homes and
two yacht clubs. Some of the finest parks are found here too, most notably
the Presidio, Crissy Field, the Marina Green, and
the Great Meadow above the Fort Mason Center. A
particularly stylish remnant of the 1915 Panama-
Pacific Exposition is also found here – the Neo-
Classical Palace of Fine Arts – with its hands-on
science museum annex, the Exploratorium.
Sights
1 Golden Gate Bridge 6 Fort Mason Center
2 Fisherman’s Wharf 7 Marina District
3 Alcatraz 8 Palace of Fine Arts and
the Exploratorium
4 Angel, Treasure, and
Yerba Buena Islands 9 Crissy Field
5 The Embarcadero 0 The Presidio
Ferry Building, Embarcadero
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“Ellis Island of the West,” where
would-be immigrants, mostly
Chinese, could be detained for
months. During World War II, it
served as a prisoner of war

camp and later as a missile base.
Treasure Island was built in 1939
for the Golden Gate International
Exposition and was a US Navy
base during World War II; it is
now once again owned by the
city and has recently become
San Francisco’s newest suburb.
Yerba Buena Island is a Coast
Guard station and is mostly
closed to visitors. d Ferries from
Pier 41
Golden Gate Bridge
! This world-famous
Golden Gate Bridge % The Embarcadero
The Embarcadero starts at
Aquatic Park and curves all the
engineering masterpiece sets off way around to Hunters Point at
the entrance to San Francisco the southeastern edge of the
Bay in the most spectacular way, city. Now that the Port of
and never fails to elicit gasps of Oakland handles the Bay’s
awe from first-time visitors and shipping needs, the old piers are
old-timers alike (see pp8–9). used for any number of purposes
these days, and the parallel road
@ Fisherman’s Wharf
Although now largely tourist-
has recently become a park
promenade (see p49). Pier 39 is
oriented, there are still authentic the most famous since it was
sights to see, aromas to savor, turned into an amusement
and salt air to breathe among attraction in the 1980s, while
these piers (see pp12–13). other piers house concerts,
festivals, antiques fairs, and
£ Alcatraz
America’s “Devil’s Island”
restaurants. When looking for a
particular pier, note that those to
didn’t operate as a prison for the north of the Ferry Building
very long, but it can still evoke a have odd numbers and those to
chill (see pp14–17). the south, even. d Map G1
$ Angel, Treasure,
and Yerba
Buena Islands
A trip out to Angel
Island, now a state
park, can make for a
very pleasant day of
picnicking, biking,
hiking, kayaking, and
swimming. But in the
early 1900s it was the Sea lions on Pier 39, Fisherman’s Wharf
93
Earthquake!
The Landfill Problem
Most of the Marina area, as well
as most of the Financial District,
was built on landfill. As time has
proven, this was not such a good

idea in a seismically active zone.
When the Loma Prieta
earthquake struck at 5:04pm on
October 17, 1989, all such landfill
liquefied, gas mains fractured,
and several Marina homes slid off
their foundations. Buildings that View of the Marina District
withstand best are those built on
bedrock, which includes most of sounds of the Wave Organ, an
the inland areas of the city. instrumental structure of
underwater pipes through which
the tides slosh in a vaguely
^ Fort Mason Center

Formerly a military base
musical fashion. d Map E1
established during the Civil War,

some of the army buildings have * Palace of Fine Arts and
the Exploratorium
been devoted to cultural programs The sole survivor – with a lot of
of all kinds since 1976. Some 50 help from restorers – of the
organizations now call it home, many fantasy monuments built
including museums, art galleries, for the 1915 Panama-Pacific
theaters, shops, festivals, fairs, Exposition, the Neo-Classical
and performance spaces, as well Palace was an Expo’ center-
as libraries and various institutes. piece. The dome of the rotunda
Some of the most prominent are is supported by a Classical frieze
the Museum of Craft and Folk and an octagonal arcade, which
Art and the Museo Italo- is set off by a landscaped lagoon
Americano (see p42), the San and flanked by an open peristyle
Francisco African-American of Corinthian columns (see p46).
Historical and Cultural Society, Behind it is the Exploratorium,
the Children’s Art Theater, the one of the world’s first hands-on
Magic Theater (see p57), and science museums. It boasts
Herbst Pavilion. The city’s finest more than 650 exhibits, divided
vegetarian restaurant, Greens, is into 13 subject areas, such as
also located here, enjoying Motion, Climate, Vision, Color
unique views of the Bay and and Light, and Sound (see p58).
Golden Gate (see p97). d Map F1 d 3601 Lyon St • Map E1 • (415) EXP-
LORE; general info. (415) 561-0360 •
& Marina District

This is a pleasant, upmarket
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.
exploratorium.edu
zone, featuring bars and trendy
boutiques along Chestnut Street.
Marina Green is a vast lawn ( Crissy Field
Originally marshland and
where locals love to jog, skate, dunes, the field was filled in for
fly kites, picnic, or walk their the 1915 Pan-Pacific Exposition
dogs. At the tip of the break- and paved over entirely for use
water that protects the Marina, as an airfield by the army from
you can tune in to the bizarre 1919–36. With the establishment
94 For information on the full range of events offered at the Fort

Mason Center during your visit, go to www.fortmason.org
of the Presidio as a national park A Bike Ride through
under the supervision of the city, the Presidio
a massive restoration project has Beginning at the Visitor
now returned part of Crissy Field Information Center, where
to wetlands and the rest to you can pick up an excel-

lawns, pathways, and picnic lent map, first explore the
areas. The city’s 100-acre “Front Main Post. Here you can
ride around the Parade
Yard” is one of the prime view- Ground, see the Presidio’s
ing sites for the July 4 fireworks earliest surviving build-
displays, while the Golden Gate ings, dating from the
Promenade is a 3-mile (5-km) 1860s, as well as 18th-
paved pathway that runs through century Spanish adobe
wall fragments in the
this district from Aquatic Park to former Officers’ Club.
Fort Point. d Map D1
Exit the area on Sheridan,
which takes you past the
) This beautiful wooded
The Presidio
Spanish Colonial Revival-
style Golden Gate Club,
corner of the city has stunning and turn left onto Lincoln,
views over the Golden Gate, but which winds around the
from 1776 until 1994 it was National Military
owned and occupied by first the Cemetery. Turn right on
Spanish, then the Mexican, and McDowell; on the left you
see the Colonial Revival
finally, the US armies, and almost Cavalry Barracks. The
entirely off-limits to anyone else. African-American “Buffalo
It has now been dubbed a major Soldiers” were stationed
part of the Golden Gate National here from 1902 to 1904.
Recreational Area, and plans are
Now go past the five brick
still coalescing as to its ultimate Stables, off to both the left
future. At the very least, it is a and the right, and stop at
spectacular park, full of nature the quirky Pet Cemetery
trails, streams, forests, drives, on the left, where post
and historic structures. In 2005 guard dogs are buried, and
also family pets. Next,
filmmaker George Lucas moved head under Highway 101
his production company, to encounter Stilwell Hall,
LucasFilm, to the Presidio, built in 1921 as enlisted
creating a $350 million barracks and a mess hall
headquarters (see p48). d Map D2 for the airmen; turn left to
take in the metal Aero-
drome Hangars from the
same era; then proceed on
and pause at Crissy Field
to admire the views.
Double back at this point,

take the next left down
toward the Bay and join
the Golden Gate
Promenade all the way out
to Fort Point where you
can experience the
Golden Gate Bridge (see
pp8–9) and the crashing
waves of the Pacific up
close and personal.
Presidio Officers’ Club, The Presidio
For bike rentals See p134. The Presidio visitor center is currently 95
located in Presidio Officers’ Club, 50 Moraga Ave at Arguello Blvd.
Left Ghirardelli chocolate bars Right Cost Plus World Market
Wharf Area Shops

! Ghirardelli Chocolate
Stop by for a free sample ^ N.F.L. Shop
Officially licensed to sell
and then stock up on your products for all major league
mouth-watering favorites. If sports, so here’s your chance
you’re feeling nostalgic take to stock up on the jerseys and
home some chocolate cable caps of all your favorite teams.
cars. d Ghirardelli Square, 900 North d Pier 39, Ground Level • Map J4
Point St • Map K2 • (415) 775-5500 • (415) 397-2027
@ Operetta
As fine a collection of Italian & Collectibles of Asia
In a complete departure
handmade pottery as you are from the usual kitsch of Pier 39,
likely to see this side of the this shop offers genuine Chinese
Atlantic. Delightful works from antiques at very affordable
Sicily, Umbria, and Tuscany. prices. You can find carvings,
d Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point St masterful ceramics, and much
• Map K2 • (415) 928-4676 more. d Pier 39, 2nd Floor, Building P,
No. 214 • Map J4
£ One of a Kind
This aptly named boutique
* Elegant Illusions
features unique, beautifully A glittering range of lab-
crafted wooden pieces, including created gemstone jewelry. The
jewelry boxes, bowls, hand- collection includes specialty
carved animals, and coffee jewelry for children. d 900 North
tables. d Ghirardelli Square, 815 Beach Point • Map K2 • (415) 398-1922
St • Map K2 • (415) 776-3200
$ Russian Treasure ( Cost Plus World

Market
A delightful shop specializing The original world import mart
in all that is colorful and whim- that set the trend for all the
sical from Old Russia, including others. It can still surprise with a
the famous nested dolls. d The well-chosen item from some far-
Cannery, 2nd Floor, 2801 Leavenworth St away land. d 2552 Taylor St • Map K3
• Map J2 • (415) 346-1104 • (415) 928-6200
% Golden Gate
National Parkstore ) Book Bay Bookstore
Great secondhand books,
This shop is a buried treasure records, and CDs, and all the
amid all the hoopla of the Wharf proceeds support programs in
area. All the information you San Francisco’s libraries. No
need for visiting the Bay Area’s better prices anywhere. d Fort
parks, plus great little souvenirs. Mason Center, Building C • Map F1
d Pier 39 • Map J4 • (415) 433-7221 • (415) 771-1076

Price Categories

Above Ana Mandara
Places to Eat
! Gary Danko
The French-American menu ^ Greens
Two decades of inventive
allows you to create your own vegetarian dishes plus panoramas
mix ‘n’ match fixed-price selec- add up to a treat (see p62). d Fort
tion. If you don’t have a reserva- Mason Center, Buchanan St, Building A •
tion, head for the bar, where you Map F1 • (415) 771-6222 • Dis. access • $$$
can order anything on the menu.
d 800 North Point St at Hyde • Map K2
• (415) 749-2060 • Dis. access • $$$$$ & The Mandarin
Opened in 1968, Northern
Chinese cuisine is served in this
@ This first-rate restaurant

Alioto’s popular restaurant with fine Bay
Area views. d Ghirardelli Sq, 900 North
serves Sicilian and seafood dishes Point St • Map K2 • (415) 673-8812 • $$
in an old-style interior. There are
great views over the Golden Gate
Bridge. d 8 Fisherman’s Wharf • Map * Scoma’s
A Fisherman’s Wharf seafood
J4 • (415) 673-0183 • Dis. access • $$$$ tradition since 1965 (see p12).
Enjoy the cracked crab roasted in
£ Ana Mandara
An exotic eatery with a touch
garlic and olive oil. d Pier 47 on A1
Scoma Way • Map J2 • (415) 771-4383 •
of Las Vegas pizzazz. The food is Dis. access • $$
Indo-Chinese and delicious. d 891
Beach St at Polk • Map K1 • (415) 771-
6800 • Dis. access • $$$ ( Grandeho’s Kamekyo
Japanese food at its best.
Sushi of all sorts. d 2721 Hyde St
$ At this tiny Marina discovery

Isa between Beach and North Point • Map K2
• (415) 673-6828 • Dis. access • $$$
the concept is nouvelle French
tapas, such as honey-spiced
calamari, and lobster broth ) The Buena Vista Café
This café claims to have
sprinkled with tarragon. d 3324 invented Irish coffee. The menu
Steiner St between Chestnut and features classic American dishes.
Lombard • Map E2 • (415) 567-9588 • d 2765 Hyde St • Map K2 • (415) 474-
Dis. access • $$$ 5044 • Dis. access • $$
% A16
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Around Town – Central Neighborhoods
Left Union Street Right Golden Gate Park
Central Neighborhoods
A S WITH EVERY QUADRANT OF SAN FRANCISCO, diversity is the keynote

here. This area encompasses the oldest money and the highest society
of the city’s founding families, as well as some of the poorest of citizens. It
takes in the staunchest pillars of the politically savvy – though true
conservatives are a rarity in this progressive city – as well as the wildest
let-it-all-hang-out free-thinkers. Then, too, there’s
a considerable swathe of the comfortably middle-
class who, like all San Franciscans, are simply
intent on enjoying the beauties and pleasures of
their great city.
Sights and Neighborhoods

1 Golden Gate Park 6 Hayes Valley
2 Union Street 7 Geary Boulevard
3 Pacific Heights 8 Presidio Heights
4 Japantown 9 Western Addition
5 Haight-Ashbury 0 The Richmond District
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98
! Golden Gate Park
One of the largest, finest
parks-cum-cultural centers in
world. No visit to the city is
complete without taking in some

of its wonders (see pp20–23).
@ Union Street
A neighborhood shopping
street loaded with tradition,
Union Street is noted for its
sidewalk cafés, antiques shops,
bookstores, and designer
boutiques, housed in converted
Victorian charmers. The street is
at the heart of the Cow Hollow
neighborhood, whose name
invokes its antecedent as a dairy Japantown
pasture (see p51). d Map E2
to-die-for views, and the palatial
£ A grander, more exclusive

Pacific Heights dwellings. The Spreckels
Mansion, a limestone palace in
residential area is hard to the Beaux-Arts tradition, on
imagine. Commanding as it does Washington and Octavia streets,
heights up to 300 ft (100 m) is the brightest gem of the lot,
overlooking the magnificent Bay, now owned by novelist Danielle
everything about it proclaims Steele (see p53). d Map E2
power and wealth. The blocks
between Alta Plaza and Lafayette
Park are the very heart of the $ Japantown
The Japan Center was built
area, but the grandeur extends as part of an ambitious 1960s
from Gough to Divisadero and plan to revitalize the Fillmore
beyond. On a sunny day, there’s District. Blocks of aging
nothing more exhilarating than Victorians were demolished and
scaling its hills and taking in the replaced by the Geary Express-
perfectly manicured streets, the way and this Japanese-style
shopping complex, with a five-
tiered, 75-ft (22-m) Peace Pagoda
at its heart. Taiko drummers
perform here during the Cherry
Blossom Festival each April (see
p74). The extensive malls are
lined with authentic Japanese
shops and restaurants, plus an
eight-screen cinema, and the
Kabuki Springs and Spa. More
shops and restaurants are found
along the outdoor mall across
Post Street. This neighborhood
has been the focus of the
Japanese community for some
Typical house, Pacific Heights 75 years. d Map F3

^ Hayes Valley
Rising like a phoenix from
the ashes of racial unrest in
what used to be a very rundown
African-American slum, this
small area has now become one

of San Francisco’s hipper
shopping and dining districts.
The dismantling of an ugly
freeway overpass following the
1989 earthquake helped turn the
tide, along with the razing of a
housing project nearby. The
Positively Haight Street, Haight-Ashbury result is a chic area that hasn’t
lost its edge. Hayes Valley festi-
% Haight-Ashbury
This anarchic quarter is one
vals occur at midsummer and
Christmas, when the streets are
of the most scintillating and thronged with revelers. d Map F4
unconventional in the city,
resting firmly on its laurels as
ground zero for the worldwide & Geary Boulevard
One of the city’s main traffic
Flower-Power explosion of the arteries, sweeping from Van
1960s (see p55). Admire the Ness all the way out to Cliff
beautiful old Queen Anne-style House, is a typically unprepos-
houses, a few of them still sessing urban thoroughfare, but
painted in the psychedelic functional. It begins its journey
pigments of that hippie era. at Market Street, sweeps past
There are still some tripping Union Square, and then forms
freaks and neo-Flower Children the heart of the Theater District,
here, along with far-out shops before venturing into the notori-
and the venerable Haight ous Tenderloin, home to seedy
Ashbury Free Clinic. Groove clubs and sex-workers. After it
along the street and recreate crosses Van Ness, it zips past
your own “Summer of Love.” The Japantown and the funky
Lower Haight is noted for its Fillmore District. Soon you’re in
edgy clubs and bars. d Map D4 the Richmond District and before
you know it, there’s the Pacific
Flower Power Ocean. d Map F3
In 1967 San Francisco witnessed
the Summer of Love, including a
75,000-strong Human Be-In at
* Presidio Heights
Originally part of the “Great
Golden Gate Park. People were Sand Waste” to the west, this
drawn here – many with flowers neighborhood is now one of the
in their hair – by the acid-driven most élite. The zone centers on
melodies of Jefferson Airplane, Sacramento Street as its discreet
Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, and shopping area. It’s worth a stroll,
The Doors. Love was free, primarily for the architecture. Of
concerts were free, drugs were
interest are the Swedenborgian
free, even food and healthcare
Church at 2107 Lyon Street, the
were free. Soon, however, public
alarm, and too many bad trips, Roos House at 3500 Jackson
caused the bubble to burst. Street, and Temple Emanu-El at
2 Lake Street. d Map D3

( Western Addition
This area, too, was once
A Hippie Tour of
Haight-Ashbury
sandy waste, but after World War
Begin at Alamo Square
II the district became populated (see p49), with the
by Southern African-Americans Westerfield House at 1998

who came west for work. For a Fulton at Scott, former
short time, it was famous for residence of Ken Kesey,
the writer and visionary
jazz and blues clubs, as
who arguably got the
embodied, until his death in whole 1960s movement
2001, by John Lee Hooker and going. Walk up Scott, turn
his Boom Boom Room. Today, it right on Page and go to
is still largely African-American in No. 1090, where Big
Brother and the Holding
character and rather rundown,
Company got their start. A
although it does comprise block and a half farther on,
architecturally odd St Mary’s go right on Lyon to No. 112,
Cathedral (see p44) and where Janis Joplin lived
photogenic Alamo Square (see for most of 1967 (see p55).
p49). d Map E3
Continue on to the Pan-
handle, an extension of
) This flat district of row

The Richmond District Golden Gate Park, where
in June 1967 the Jimi
houses begins at Masonic Hendrix Experience gave a
free concert. Now turn left
Street, sandwiched between
on Central and head up to
Golden Gate Park and California steep Buena Vista Park
Street. It ultimately extends all (see p49), site of public
the way to the Pacific Ocean, Love-Ins in the 1960s and
being more and more prone to 1970s. Turn Right on Haight
and check out Positively
stay fog-bound the farther west
Haight Street, 1400 Haight
you go. The district is very Street at Masonic, one of
ethnically diverse and resound- the fanciest hippie shops.
ingly middle class. Over the
decades, it has been settled by Continue on to the famous
White Russians, East European Haight-Ashbury inter-
section and walk along
Jews, and latterly Chinese- Haight to Clayton; at No.
Americans and another wave of 558 is the much-loved
Russians. d Map C3 Haight Ashbury Free Clinic,
still imbued with the spirit
of the 1960s. Savor a well-
earned cappuccino and
snack at the People’s Cafe
(see p105).
Refreshed, walk towards

the park, turn Right on
Stanyan all the way to
Fulton. At 2400 Fulton
stands the former Jeffer-
son Airplane Mansion,
which used to be painted
black. Finally, head back to
Golden Gate Park (see
pp20–23) and make your
way to Hippie Hill to
groove to the tribal drums.
Russian shop, Richmond District
Following pages: Victorian Conservatory, Golden Gate Park 101

Left Enchanted Crystal Right John Wheatman & Associates
Shops
! John Wheatman
& Associates ^ Polanco
A sophisticated gallery of
Understated, somewhat Oriental Mexican arts, featuring silver
elegance in warm, cozy tones is jewelry, colorful Day of the Dead
what this showroom is all about. masks and crafts, as well as the
If you’re not in the market for work of emerging Mexican artists.
antiques or designer furniture, d 393 Hayes St • Map F4 • (415) 252-5753
stop by for their subtle pottery or
paintings. d 1933 Union St • Map F2
• (415) 346-8300 & L’Art Deco Français
This is the US branch of a
remarkable collection of French
@ Enchanted Crystal
This gallery/store offers
furniture and objets d’art from
the 1920s to the 1950s. On
an amazing collection of art, display are tables, lamps, iron-
glass, handcrafted jewelry, and works, ceramics, glass, paintings,
decorative gifts. d 1895 Union St sculptures, and more. d 1680
• Map F2 • (415) 885-1335 Market St • Map F4 • (415) 863-5483
£ Carol Doda’s Champagne

& Lace Lingerie Boutique * Comix Experience
Comics with adult aficiona-
Bodywear for women and men, dos in mind: The Ring of the
brought to you by the infamous Nibelung, The Filth, Naughty
entertainment pioneer who Bits, Static-X, and Peculia are
brought topless dancing to just a few of the whacky titles
San Francisco in the 1960s. awaiting you in new and vintage
Naturally, the emphasis is on issues. d 305 Divisadero St • Map E4
risqué styles. d 1850 Union St • (415) 863-9258
• Map F2 • (415) 776-6900
$ Brooks Shoes For Kids ( Forever After Books

Perhaps the funkiest used
This store specializes in high bookstore in the world. There are
fashion with a huge range in all piles of tomes stacked on every
styles. Accessories and toys are surface, but the owners know
also sold here. d 3307 Sacramento where to find just about anything
St • Map E3 • (415) 440-7599 you’re looking for. d 1475 Haight St
• Map E4 • (415) 431-8299
% Worldware
This luxurious collection of
) Amoeba Music
home furnishings, gifts, and Besides thousands of LPs,
accessories from around the tapes, and CDs, there’s also a
world is the love-child of an huge selection of DVDs and
interior design couple. d 301 Fell St posters. d 1855 Haight St • Map D4
• Map F4 • (415) 487-9030 • (415) 831-1200

Price Categories

Above Absinthe
Places to Eat
! Perry’s
A San Francisco institution, ^ Absinthe
Like being air-lifted to a Paris
noted for its burgers and other bistro. Specials such as confit of
all-American favorites, including Muscovy duck leg with prunes,
meatloaf, prime rib, and fried Landais potatoes, and arugula.
chicken. d 1944 Union St • Map F2 d 398 Hayes St • Map F4 • (415) 551-
• (415) 922-9022 • Dis. access • $$ 1590 • Closed Mon • Dis. access • $$$
@ Betelnut
Exotic Asian decor and the & Suppenkuche
An ideal place for enthusiasts
firecracker flavors of pan-Asian of hearty, meaty German food
and Pacific Rim cuisine. This and beer. d 525 Laguna St • Map F4
place has been a hit from day • (415) 252-9289 • Dis. access • $$
one. d 2030 Union St • Map L5 • (415)
929-8855 • Dis. access • $$$$
* Kiss Seafood
Book ahead to eat delectable
£ SPQR
No reservations accepted
sushi and sashimi at this tiny
restaurant. d 1700 Laguna St • Map
at this no-frills, rustic Roman- F3 • (415) 474-2866 • Dis. access • $$$
inspired eatery with mouth-
watering antipasti and superior
service. d 1911 Fillmore St • Map E3 ( Blue Front Café
A local favorite for cheap,
• (415) 771-7779 • Dis. access • $$$ tasty Mediterranean wraps and
sandwiches. d 1430 Haight St • Map
$ The Grove
It almost feels like a
E4 • (415) 252-5917 • Dis. access • $
mountain lodge, with lounging

furniture and roaring fire. The ) People’s Café
For a cappuccino and a snack
tempting menu offers tasty any time of day or night, this is a
entrées such as chicken pot pie great hangout. d 1419 Haight St •
or three-cheese macaroni. d 2016 Map E4 • (415) 553-8842 • Dis. access • $
Fillmore St • Map E3 • (415) 474-1419
• Dis. access • $$ 81,21
67
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5
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67 5 ( ( 7
67 5 ( ( 7
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67 5 ( ( 7
offers an impressive selection to +$ < ( 6
67 5 ( ( 7
match the exquisite dishes. d +$ , * +7
2125 Fillmore St • Map E3 • (415) 346-

4430 • Dis. access • $$$

Around Town – Southern Neighborhoods
Left Castro District bar Right View from Twin Peaks
Southern Neighborhoods
T HE SOUTHERN PART OF THE CITY comprises some of the liveliest, most

authentic parts of town – the clubs of SoMa, the gay world of the Castro,
and the Latino Mission District. There are also some up-and-coming
neighborhoods such as Bernal Heights and Glen Park, as the more central
areas have priced creative types out toward the southern borders. Laid-back
Noe Valley was the first such choice for high-rent refugees, but it, too, has
gone gentrified and pushed people farther south.
Sights and Neighborhoods

1 San Francisco Museum 6 Mission District
of Modern Art
7 South of Market
2 Mission Dolores
8 Yerba Buena
3 Castro District Center
4 Twin Peaks 9 China Basin
5 Noe Valley 0 Potrero Hill
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away in dark corners of anony-
mous bars, the establishments
here have full picture windows
right on the street and are busy
at all hours. Castro Street is

closed off every Hallowe’en for
the famous gay costume party
that most agree is one of the
city’s best, second only perhaps
to the Gay Pride Parade (see
p75). d Map E5
Statue of St Joseph, Mission Dolores

$ Twin Peaks
These two hills were first
! San Francisco
known in Spanish as El Pecho de
la Chola, or “The Bosom of the
San Francisco’s home for its Indian Girl.” At the top, there is
extensive modern art collection an area of parkland with steep
is as impressive outside as it is and grassy slopes from which
adaptable and awe-inspiring you can enjoy incomparable
inside. Don’t miss the top floors, views of the whole of San
featuring the latest media, art, Francisco. Twin Peaks Boulevard
and digital installations, and the circles both hills near their
large-scale sculpture in the summits, and there is plenty of
rooftop garden, which opened in parking near the viewing point. If
May 2009 (see pp26–9). you’re up to the climb, take the
footpath to the top, above the
@ Mission Dolores
The original Spanish Misión
main viewing area, to get a 360-
degree panorama. The residential
San Francisco de Asós, from districts on the slopes lower
which the city takes its name, is down have curving streets that
a marvel of preservation and follow the contours of the hills,
atmospheric charm. It was rather than the formal grid pattern
founded in 1776, just a few that predominates in most of the
weeks before the Declaration of city (see p60). d Map E6
Independence (see pp30–31).
£ Castro District
This hilly neighborhood
around Castro Street is the
center of San Francisco’s high-
profile gay community. The
intersection of Castro and 18th
streets is the self-proclaimed
“Gayest Four Corners of the
World,” and this openly homo-
sexual nexus emerged in the
1970s as the place of pilgrimage
for gays and lesbians from all
over the country and the world.
Unlike other cities, where homo-
sexuals once hid themselves Castro Theater, Castro District
107
% Noe Valley
Once a simple working-class
A Gay City
After the free-love movement of
neighborhood, the 1970s brought
the 1960s (see p100),
hippies, gays, artists, and other homosexuals realized that they,
Bohemian types to its slopes too, had rights to stand up for,
and it soon became an attractive and started moving into the

alternative to other, more estab- Castro in the 1970s. In no time
lished quarters. In its heyday it the neighborhood was a non-stop
was known as both “Nowhere – and unstoppable – party of
Valley” for its relative remoteness, freewheeling sexual excess.
Suddenly gays were “out” in
and as “Granola Valley” for its
legions, which brought with it
nature-loving denizens. Lately, it political clout. Despite the AIDS
has been taken over by middle- plague, the city is still one of the
class professionals, who value easiest places in the world to live
the area for its orderliness, but out an openly gay identity.
24th Street still hums with
activity and is lined with cafés,
bookstores, and the occasional
oddball shop. d Map E6 & South of Market
The city’s erstwhile rough-
and-tumble warehouse district
^ Mission District
The teeming Hispanic world,
has been on the rise for the last
few decades and continues to
with all the accompanying noise attract arty types as well as a
and confusion, constitutes the whole range of clubs and cool
Mission, home to San Francisco’s cafés. Plans are afoot for more
many Latinos. They have brought major transformations in the
their culture with them – bustling wake of the building of Pacific
taquerias, salsa clubs, Santeria Bell Park (see p29). d Map R4
shops, lively murals, and Spanish
everywhere you look and listen.
It’s a loud, odoriferous place, * Yerba Buena Center
This area is fast becoming
with edgy crowds dodging each one of San Francisco’s leading
other along the main drags, cultural centers for the
Mission and Valencia streets and performing arts, as well as a
their connecting streets from growing number of museums
Market to Cesar Chavez (Army). representing the city’s ethnic
Its folklórico festivals are not to diversity. Every year sees some
be missed, especially the new addition to the airy complex
Carnaval (see p74). d Map F5 (see pp28–9).
( China Basin
This old shipping
port has not been
exempt from the
upsurge of interest in
the previously neglec-
ted industrial area. The
main change has been
wrought by the build-
ing of the AT&T Park,
home to the city’s
Mural, Mission District major league baseball

A Walk Around the
Castro District
Begin at the city’s gay
mecca, the Church Street
Muni Station on Upper

Market. Decades ago, this
corner developed a gay
identity as the beginning
point of the Castro
neighborhood, but it is on
the next block, between
Sanchez and Noe, that the
gay shops and venues
really begin to proliferate.
The Café Flore (see p65)
SoMa Esplanade stands out as one of the
premier gay hotspots for a
team, the San Francisco Giants, drink, a meal, or just a
and developers have already put gaze at the constant flow
of fascinating clientele.
forth ideas of how the zone can
Towards the corner of
be put to use. A number of Castro is The Cafe at 2367
restaurants, bars, and clubs, Market, offering a range of
many with port views, have strong drinks accompanied
opened up here or have been by top 40 mixes to a
trendy gay crowd.
refurbished and gentrified.
d Map H4 Continuing on to Castro
Street, take in Harvey Milk
) Potrero Hill
At one time this usually
Plaza, with its huge rain-
bow flag, named after the
slain gay leader (see p39).
sunny SoMa hill was set to
On the opposite corner,
become the next big thing. But check out Twin Peaks (see
somehow its isolation kept that p68) at 401 Castro, the
from ever happening, cut off oldest totally “out” gay
from the rest of the city, as it is, bar, notable for its picture
windows affording a full
by freeways on three sides and
view of goings on, both
its own precipitous inclines. inside and on the street.
Consequently, it has remained
the quiet, pleasant neighborhood Pushing on to No. 429,
it always has been, with allow the Castro Theater to
capture your attention, one
spectacular views. To be sure, a
of the city’s most ornate
few more upmarket concerns are cinema palaces, home to
located here than before, and innumerable premieres of
there are more restaurants and gay-themed films. Farther
bars, but mostly it’s thoroughly along at No. 489, A
Different Light Bookstore
residential. One tourist sight of
(see p110) offers virtually
note here is the Anchor Brewing every gay-themed book,
Company. It’s worth a visit, magazine, and newspaper
especially as the 45-minute in the world.
walking tour and tasting session
are free. There’s only one tour Finally, just up 18th Street
at No. 4121 is Badlands
each afternoon so book ahead. d (see p69), a cruisy pickup
Map H5 • Anchor Brewing Company: scene that packs them in,
1705 Mariposa St; Map H5 • (415) 863- especially after 10pm.
8350 • www.anchorbrewing.com
109
Left Brand X Antiques Right Tibet Shop
Shops
! Ed Hardy San Francisco
Without a doubt the premier ^ Astrid’s Rabat Shoes
If walking the steep city
antiques shop in town, featuring streets is challenging your
beautiful 18th- to 19th-century footwear, this Noe Valley shop
European masterworks, and can fit you with a new pair of
Oriental pieces from as early as sturdy, stylish walking shoes.
the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 3909 24th St • Map F6 • (415)
d 188 Henry Adams St • Map G4 • (415) 282-7400
626-6300
@ Jeremy’s & Otsu

A boutique dedicated to
A fabulous discount clothing providing high quality vegan
boutique for men’s and women’s products, such as shoes, belts,
fashions, including Prada, Gucci, and bags, as well as books and
Armani, Ralph Lauren, DKNY, and paper products. d 3253 16th St •
more – all at reduced prices. d 2 Map F4 • (415) 255-7900, (866) HEYOTSU
South Park • Map R6 • (415) 882-4929
£ A Different Light * Encantada Gallery

On lively Valencia Street sits
Bookstore this colorful gallery of Mexican
Probably the world’s most com- folk art – Talavera pottery, textiles,
plete gay and lesbian bookstore, religious icons, paper goods, and
from art and photography books woodcarvings. Workshops and
to periodicals. d 489 Castro St • Map lectures are also held here. d 904–
E5 • (415) 431-0891 8 Valencia St • Map F5 • (415) 642-3939
$ Brand X Antiques
The gay couple who own ( Botanica Yoruba
The Santeria religion is the
this shop have a discerning and faith of many Latinos, and this
humorous eye. In addition to shop caters to their ritualistic
baubles, rings, and furniture, the and spiritual needs. An array of
collection also features tongue-in- potions and powders, candles
cheek vintage homoerotica. d 570 and icons (see p45). d 998 Valencia
Castro St • Map E5 • (415) 626-8908 St • Map F5 • (415) 826-4967
% Tibet Shop
In business for at least 40 ) Skechers
This vast store is a prime
years, it features a wide selection example of the discount empori-
of merchandise from Tibet, ums up and down the Mission.
Nepal, and Bhutan – clothing, If it’s trendy running or walking
jewelry, artifacts, art – at very shoes you’re after, this is the
reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at place to find them. d 2600 Mission
Castro • Map E5 • (415) 982-0326 St • Map F5 • (415) 401-6211

Left Ten 15 Folsom Right Make-Out Room
Nightclubs
! Café du Nord
Located in the landmark ^ The Stud Bar
Around for over 35 years,
Swedish-American building, this this formerly exclusive enclave of
subterranean nightclub is one of maleness is now popular with
the city’s smartest. It also hosts anybody who likes a rollicking
local and national bands. d 2170 lusty time. Theme nights include
Market St • Map F4 • (415) 861-5016 Trannyshack, a fabulous drag
cabaret show. d 399 9th St at
@ Make-Out Room
Cool live music and DJ nights
Harrison • Map G4 • (415) 863-6623
make this a Mission favorite. The

decor is original, the drinks are & 111 Minna Gallery
Art gallery by day and rave
cheap (particularly during the scene by night. Devotees call
nightly happy hour), and the staff this the coolest place in town,
is appropriately witty. d 3225 22nd with top DJs who mix everything
St at Mission • Map F5 • (415) 647-2888 from garage to world beat. d 111
Minna St between New Montgomery &
£ Something – and somebody

The Café 2nd • Map P5 • (415) 462-0505
– for everybody here at this

camp, cruisy Castro old-timer * ElDifferent
Rio
dance events every
that attracts gays, lesbians, and night of the week draw a diverse
straights in equal doses. The crowd ready to work their thing –
outdoor balcony is great for Friday World Beat and Sunday
people-watching. d 2367 Market St Salsa Showcase are huge. d 3158
at Castro • Map E5 • (415) 861-3846 Mission St • Map F5 • (415) 974-1719
$ AsiaSF
Brazen Asian drag queens are ( Elbo Room
This two-story bar combines
your waitresses, who also perform dancing, live entertainment, and
bar-top numbers. The tropical pool tables. A great mix of
cocktails glow in the dark. DJs people come together here for
and dancing downstairs. d 201 9th the welcoming atmosphere and
St at Howard • Map G4 • (415) 255-2742 a great time. d 647 Valencia St
• Map F5 • (415) 552-7788
% Formerly exclusively gay, as

The Endup
) Ten 15 Folsom
famously featured in Tales of the Perhaps the definitive SoMa
City (see p52), this classic is club, with three levels of trance
now thoroughly mixed, featuring and techno spun by big-name DJs,
house music, and an all-day complete with million-dollar light
Sunday “T” Dance. d 401 6th St at shows (see p70). d 1015 Folsom St
Harrison • Map R4 • (415) 357-0827 at 6th • Map R4 • (415) 431-1200

Left The Bar on Castro Right Destino
Bars and Clubs

! Lucky 13
A chill-out punk bar where ^ Mezzanine
This richly diverse gathering
you can sport your new tattoo to space showcases live and
an admiring audience. The electronic music from all genres
jukebox is full of indie alternative – rock, dance, hip hop, soul, jazz,
sounds. d 2140 Market St at Church salsa, and world beat, as well as
• Map F4 • (415) 487-1313 hosting multimedia art events
and fashion shows. d 444 Jesse St
@ DNA Lounge
The recent return of this
• Map Q3 • (415) 625-8880
clubbers’ favorite brings with it a

juiced-up sound system, five bar & The Knockout
A comfortable and stylish
areas, and a bigger dance floor. place with artwork, cool decor,
Webcasts of live concerts and and an attractive back bar. DJs
DJ events, too. d 375 11th St at and live music weekly. d 3223
Harrison • Map G4 • (415) 626-1409 Mission St • Map F6 • (415) 550-6994
£ Destino
Traditional Spanish and * Amber Bar and
Cocktail Lounge
South American music, with all White leather couches, funky
the spirit that goes with it. Great wall art, and a cool yellow glow
drinks and Latino food, too (see have replaced the dark mood of
p67). d 1815 Market St • Map F4 this bar formerly known as
• (415) 552-4451 Zodiac. Live DJs spin rock music
all night. d 718 14th St between Church
$ The Bar on Castro

A friendly gay mix of young
& Sanchez • Map F4 • (415) 626-7827
and old make this dark, very

central bar one of the most ( Rawhide II
Once catering to Country &
popular on the street. It’s only a Western loving males, it’s now
bar – no food or music – and as house music, but still pretty gay.
such a great place to begin your The decor remains Wild West with
evening’s revelries. d 456 Castro St a great patio. d 280 7th St at Folsom
• Map E5 • (415) 626-7220 • Map R3 • (415) 621-1197
% Bacar
Check out the towering “wine ) 21st Amendment
A sports fan’s dream, this
wall” at this sleek renovated brewpub near the ballpark serves
warehouse with an incredibly up handcrafted beers and
elegant interior. An extensive standard American fare. It’s a
selection of wines from around friendly place to catch a game on
the globe will entice you. d 448 television. d 563 2nd St • Map R6 •
Brannan St • Map R6 • (415) 904-4100 (415) 369-0900
112
Price Categories

Above Pancho Villa Taqueria
Places to Eat
! Boulevard
The cuisine is mouth- & Range
This sleek restaurant in the
watering Americana, but in very heart of the Mission District
creative ways. The decor is belle serves simple classics and is a
époque; the service superior. perfect end to a day’s
d 1 Mission St at Steuart • Map H2 sightseeing. d 842 Valencia St • Map
• (415) 543-6084 • Dis. access • $$$$ F5 • (415) 282-8283 • Dis. access • $$$
@ Home
Panoramic windows make * Caffè Centro
A brisk business in drinks,
this a great people-watching pastries, soups, and salads.
spot. d 2100 Market St • Map F4 • Always crowded (see p64). d 102
(415) 503-0333 • Dis. access • $$ South Park • Map R6 • (415) 882-1500
• Closed Sun • Dis. access • $
£ Bagdad Café
This diner is all-American –
( Manivah Thai Restaurant
buffalo wings, herb-roasted If you’re looking for a cheap
chicken, and pastries displayed in yet tasty Thai fix, this is the
a revolving carousel. d 2295 Market place to go. Fresh ingredients
St • Map F4 • (415) 621-4434 • Dis. and bold flavors abound so don’t
access • $ be put off by the dated decor.
d 2732 24th St • Map G5 • (415) 824-
$ Open 24 hours, this café is

Sparky’s Diner 6059 • Dis. access • $$
great for clubbers wanting to

grab a late night breakfast or ) Higher Ground
Coffee House
burger and fries. During the day A variety of sandwiches, omelets,
it attracts families. d 242 Church St and fresh salads, served with
at Market • Map F4 • (415) 626-8666 • $ amazing homemade fries. d 691
Chenery St, Glen Park • (415) 587-2933
% Just off Market Street, Chow

Chow • No credit cards • Dis. access • $
offers affordable pizzas, pastas, 1PXFMM

4USFFU
grilled and roasted meats, and a
(7
5(
$JWJD
67
selection of beer and wine. $FOUFS

2
1
6,
,6
Friendly service. d 215 Church St • 7BO/FTT 0
$BM5SBJO
%FQPU
Map F4 • (415) 552-2469 • Dis. access • $
( 7
5(
67
7
.(
^ Traditional Mexican fare here

Pancho Villa Taqueria 0
$5
7 + UI4U
67 5 ( ( 7
9$/( 1 & ,$
.JTTJPO
'2/2 5(6
is prepared by jolly muchachos 67 5 ( ( 7

7 +
and chiquitas. d 3071 16th St • Map
67
67
F4 • (415) 864-8840 • Dis. access • $

Around Town – Oceanfront
Left Legion of Honor Right Cliff House
Oceanfront
A S WITH EVERY SEGMENT OF THIS CITY, the area that faces the Pacific
Ocean is a study in contrasts. Surprisingly to many, it contains terrains
of natural beauty that are just as untamed and craggy as they always have
been, particularly the rocky, windswept micro-climates that make up the cliffs
and hidden ravines of Land’s End. This has been the scene of innumerable
shipwrecks throughout the city’s history. Yet, just a few blocks away is Sea
Cliff, one of the most exclusive residential neighborhoods in town. All up and
down the area, beside blocks and blocks of tract
homes, there are numerous parks and recreational
possibilities, including, of course, surfing, if you’re
skilled and brave enough to face the unpredic-
table, freezing waters of the Pacific. Of all San
Francisco’s areas, this is the place where you’re
almost certain to encounter the city’s infamous
fog, but if the weather is clear there are great
views of the offshore Seal Rocks and even the
Farallon Islands. Further south, more activities can
be enjoyed at Lake Merced. Koala, San Francisco Zoo
-BOEhT $IJOB
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! Cliff House
Built in 1909, the present
she commissioned to build her
mansion in Pacific Heights (see
structure is the third on this site p99). It opened in 1924 and
and was renovated in 2004. Its features a collection of medieval
predecessor, a massively to 20th-century European art,

elaborate eight-story Victorian- with paintings by Monet, Rubens,
Gothic castle that burned down and Rembrandt. Also excellent
in 1907, was built by the flamboy- traveling exhibitions. d Lincoln Park,
ant entrepreneur Adolph Sutro 34th Ave & Clement St • www.thinker.org
(his estate overlooking Cliff House • Map B3 • (415) 863-3330 • Open
is now Sutro Heights Park). Cliff 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm
House has restaurants on the
upper levels, observation decks
overlooking the Pacific Ocean, a $ Oceanfront Parks
Lincoln Park, Land’s End,
new wing containing two bars, a and Sutro Heights Park are large
visitors’ center, and the Camera green areas that overlook and
Obscura. The Musée Méchanique hug the coast all along this
has moved to Pier 45 at northwestern corner of the
Fisherman’s Wharf (see p41). d peninsula. Stupendous Lincoln
Map A3 • Open 11am–7pm Mon–Fri, 10am– Park is the work of the
8pm Sat & Sun • (415) 386-3330 • Adm indefatigable John McClaren (see
p21), and features coastal trails
@ Ocean Beach
Most of San Francisco’s
affording some of the best views
of the Golden Gate Bridge.
western boundary is defined by Land’s End is a surprisingly
this broad sweep of sand. rugged and wild stretch along
Although sublime when viewed the coastal cliffs that features a
from Cliff House or Sutro stony, picturesque cove,
Heights, the beach is dangerous stretches of broad sand, and
for swimming due to its icy truly spectacular hiking. Gardens,
waters, rough shore breakers, statuary, and walls of the old
and, most of all, rip currents that Sutro estate still decorate Sutro
are powerful enough to drag Heights Park, dominating the
even strong swimmers out to entire coastal scene from its
sea. Nevertheless, hardy surfers dramatic vantage point. d Map A3
in thick wetsuits are a common
sight, and in fine weather sun-
bathers and picnickers materi-
alize. d The Great Hwy • Map A4
£ Legion of Honor
The creation of Alma
Bretteville Spreckels, heiress to
the Spreckels sugar fortune, this
museum is a replica of the Palais
de la Légion d’Honneur in Paris.
The original temporary structure
was built for the 1915 Pan-Pacific
Exposition to house French art,
but Mrs Spreckels wanted to
build a permanent version and
employed the same architect Land’s End
115
^ San Francisco Zoo
San Francisco Zoo is at the
far southwest corner of the city,
between the Pacific Ocean and
Lake Merced. The complex is
home to more than 1,000

species of birds, mammals, and
insects, among which 20 are
considered to be endangered –
most notably the snow leopard,
Seal Rocks Bengal tiger, and jaguar. Gorilla
World, Koala Crossing, and
% Seal Rocks
The westernmost
Children’s Zoo are particular hits,
as are the feeding times for the
promontory on this tip of the grizzly bears (11am daily) and
peninsula is Point Lobos, the the penguins (2:30pm daily).
projection that forms Land’s Summer brings a busy program
End’s rocky cove. Along to the of extra activities in the
south from here down to Cliff Children’s Zoo. d Sloat Blvd at Pacific
House is a scattering of small, Ocean • www.sfzoo.org • Buses 18 & 23
rocky islands frequented by seals • Open 10am–5pm daily • (415) 753-7080
– hence the name. Bring • Dis. access • Adm
binoculars to spy on the seals
and birds in their natural habitat.
At night, from the beach or Cliff & Sigmund Stern Grove
This 63-acre ravine in the
House promenade, the barking southern Sunset District is the
of the sea lions – like the keening site of the nation’s original free
of the foghorns – is both reassur- summer arts festival, endowed
ing and eerie, and so very “San in 1938 and still in operation. The
Francisco.” On a clear day, 32 Sunday programs may include
miles (50 km) off the coast, you classical music performed by the
can see the Farallon Islands, also San Francisco Symphony
inhabited by sea lions and with a Orchestra, opera, jazz, popular
state-protected rookery. d Map A3 music, or productions by the San
Francisco Ballet. The natural
Cliff House and amphitheater is in a eucalyptus
the Sutro Baths and redwood grove. d Sloat Blvd at
Adolph Sutro came to San 19th Ave, Sunset • (415) 252-6252
Francisco from Prussia in 1851,
aged 21 and looking for gold.
Instead, he became the Silver
King of the Comstock Lode
* Sea Cliff
Actor Robin Williams, a San
Francisco native, has a home in
(Nevada), and brought his riches
this élite residential enclave,
back to the city to invest them in
land. His projects included which stands in stark contrast to
building the first Cliff House, the the natural coastal area all
popular Sutro Baths, and his own around it. Most of the luxurious
lavish estate. In the process, he homes are Mediterranean in
transformed the Ocean Beach style and date from the 1920s.
area into a recreational gem. The Just below the neighborhood,
legacy lives on, despite the China Beach – named after poor
disappearance of all three of the
Chinese fishermen who used to
famous buildings he constructed.
camp here – is one of the safest
116
beaches in the city for swimming A Two-Hour Hike
and is equipped with showers Around Land’s End
and other facilities. Baker Beach,
This section of the coast is
just to the north, is another amazingly wild, especially
popular beach (see p76). d Map C2 considering that it is

actually within the city
( Sunset District
Like its counterpart, the
limits. Note that portions
of the hike are very
rugged, so dress accord-
Richmond District (see p101), ingly, with good footwear.
this neighborhood was part of
the Outer Lands and is purely Begin at the far end of the
residential, consisting of row Merrie Way parking lot and
upon row of neat, look-alike take the steps down.
Follow the trail that passes
houses. Yet, like the entire area by the Sutro Baths ruins
along the ocean, this district is (see p39), to your left as
subject to a great deal of gray you descend. Continue on
weather. Its one claim to fame is along to the Overlook,
Sutro Tower, the pronged red- from which you can take in
Seal Rocks and much of
and-white television antenna that the Pacific panorama.
resembles something out of a
science fiction movie. d Between Now double back a bit to
Sloat Blvd & Golden Gate Park and pick up the trail that
Stanyan St & the Pacific Ocean • Map C5 continues along the coast.
You will see the remains
of concrete military
) Lake Merced
Located at the beginning of
bunkers, which have been
broken and tilted by the
scenic Skyline Boulevard, this unstable land, and now
attractive lake, set amid verdant decorated with graffiti.
Soon you come to a beach
hills, extends across the below rocky cliffs; note
southern end of the Sunset that the surging water is
District. Relatively undeveloped very unpredictable here,
and certainly under-used, it so be very attentive.
nevertheless gets its share of Continue walking and you
will arrive at Land’s End
recreation enthusiasts. They Cove, where a makeshift
come for the municipal Harding beach, using rock walls as
Park 18-hole Golf Course, and windbreakers, is popular
the biking and running trails that with nudists.
circle the lake’s green shoreline.
Next, climb up one of the
d Hwy 35 sets of wooden steps to
join the path up above and
continue on around the
bend, where you will be
greeted with a stunning
view of the Golden Gate
Bridge (see pp8–9). Keep
going all the way to
Eagle’s Point and return by
way of the higher trail that
winds through Lincoln
Park (see p73).
For a meal after your hike

visit Cliff House (see p121).
Sunset District
Following pages: Cliff House and the Pacific Ocean 117

Left Williams-Sonoma Right Aqua Surf Shop
Shops
! Troika
With the atmosphere of a ^ Stonestown Galleria
Upmarket Nordstrom and all-
pawnshop and the thick sound of purpose Macy’s are the anchor
Russian being spoken, this shop stores to this traditional indoor-
reflects the émigré neighbor- outdoor shopping center with
hood in which it’s located. All the usual array of mall stores,
sorts of collectibles and gift ideas, from Gap to Sunglass Hut, and
mostly of Russian origin. d 6300 plenty of food outlets for a quick
Geary Blvd • Map C3 • (415) 387-4345 snack between stores. d 19th Ave
& Winston Drive • (415) 759-2626
@ Old Stuff
One of several antiques
& Borders Books & Music
shops along this strip of Clement, This chain bookstore offers
this one has everything, from a good selection of the latest
furniture to jewelry, to lamps, to titles, some excellent bargain
glass and china. d 2325 Clement St choices, and a snack bar. d 233
• Map C3 • (415) 668-2220 Winston Drive • (415) 731-0665
£ Gaslight &
Shadows Antiques * Williams-Sonoma
The renowned kitchen,
The specialty here is porcelain, cookware, and serving-ware
specifically the precious, delicate dealer originated in Northern
masterpieces turned out by the California. Products from around
various makers in the town of the world, chosen for function-
Limoges, France. It’s like visiting ality and beauty. d 3251 20th Ave,
a museum dedicated to this fine Stonestown Galleria • (415) 242-1473
artform. Dolls, costume jewelry,
and Oriental rugs, too. d 2335
Clement St • Map C3 • (415) 387-0633 ( Ann Taylor
Simplicity and comfortable
fit are the keynotes of the
$ The Garden Spot

Browse the eclectic array of
women’s clothing designed by
Ann Taylor. Elegant suits, luxuri-
antiques and collectibles at this ous silk sweaters, linen casuals,
shop close to Lincoln Park Golf or sporty khakis. d 3251 20th Ave,
Course. d 3029 Clement St • Map B3 • Stonestown Galleria • (415) 564-0229
(415) 751-8190
% Aqua Surf Shop ) Bailey Banks & Biddle

The finest gems are set off
Every sort of surf gear, by elegant designs created by
including the extra-thick wetsuits this jeweler, in business since
needed to survive these northern 1832. They also have Lladró
waters. d 2830 Sloat Blvd between figurines. d 3251 20th Ave,
46th & 47th avenues • (415) 242-9283 Stonestown Galleria • (415) 759-5310

Price Categories

Above Beach Chalet Brewery
Places to Eat
! Cliff House
Standard American fare, but ^ Kabuto Sushi
A great Japanese restaurant
the real reason to come here is – the sashimi melts in the mouth.
to see the Pacific crashing on d 5121 Geary Blvd at 15th Ave • Map C3
the cliffs below and to witness • (415) 752-5652 • Closed Mon & Sun •
the wonderful sunsets (see Dis. access • $$
p115). d 1090 Point Lobos Ave • Map
A3 • (415) 386-3330 • Dis. access • $$
& Pizzetta 211
Thin and crisp pizza topped
@ Beach Chalet Brewery

Again, you come for the
with organic ingredients. d 211
23rd Ave • Map C3 • (415) 379-9880 •
view – both outside, of the Closed Mon & Tue • No credit cards
ocean, and inside, of the murals • Dis. access • $
– rather than the food. d 1000
Great Hwy • Map A4 • (415) 386-8439 •
Dis. access • $$$ * QFriendly
Restaurant
staff serve huge
portions of comfort food at this
£ Diner food with wonderful

Louis’ local favorite. d 225 Clement St • Map
D3 • (415) 752-2298 • Dis. access • $$
views of Seal Rock and Land’s
End. Every American favorite
you can name. d 902 Point Lobos ( Java Beach Café
This cozy café serves sand-
Ave • Map A3 • (415) 387-6330 • Dis. wiches, soup, and pastries in a
access • $$ nautical-themed interior. d 1396 La
Playa St • Map A5 • (415) 665-5282 • $
$ Many say this place has the

Ton Kiang
) Burma Superstar
best dim sum in the city. Always A Burmese eatery with an
fresh, hot, and tasty, with various extensive menu. Don’t miss the
specialties. d 5821 Geary Blvd • Map tea leaf salad. d 309 Clement St • Map
C3 • (415) 387-8273 • Dis. access • $$ D3 • (415) 387-2147 • Dis. access • $$
% Chapeau!
7 +
A memorably authentic & /( 0 ( 17 67 5 ( ( 7
French bistro, run by a talented 3 2 , 1 7 /2 % 2 6 $ 9 ( * ( $5< % 2 8 /( 9$5 '

7 +$9 (
husband and wife team. He’s the

$9 ( 1 8 (
67 5 ( ( 7
% $/% 2$
sommelier and knows how to
* 5 ( $7
assign the treasures from his list ) 8 /72 1

67 5 ( ( 7
which pair well with the classic (PMEFO(BUF1BSL

+ , * +:$ <
fare, from mussels with aioli to

:$<
/, 1 & 2 /1
roasted pork loin. d 1408 Clement
6 8 1 6 ( 7% /9'
7 +$9 (
67 5 ( ( 7
St at 15th Ave • Map C3 • (415) 750-9787 - 8 '$+
• Closed Mon • Dis. access • $$$$$

Around Town – The Bay Area
Left Mormon Temple, Oakland Right Point Bonita lighthouse, Marin County Headlands
The Bay Area
I N LOCAL PARLANCE, THE BAY AREA breaks down into The City, the East
Bay, Marin, the Peninsula, and the South Bay. Although technically Santa
Clara and San Jose – and certainly Santa
Cruz and Capitola – do not touch the
waters of the Bay, psychologically they
still embody the same liberal, open-
minded ethos that so defines this area.
This is probably because the dominant
mentality of this swatch of Northern
California is so definably different from
those of Southern California and the
Central Valley. In towns such as Berkeley,
Mill Valley, and Stanford the emphasis is
on progressive thinking; smaller enclaves
such as Bolinas are determined to live life
in harmony with the breathtaking nature
all around them. Sather Tower, Berkeley campus
6DQ
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0 Tiburon
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£ Marin County
Headlands
To visit these raw,
wild hills with aston-
ishingly beautiful views

is to enter another
world; yet it’s only half
an hour’s drive away,
by way of the Golden
Gate Bridge. The scale
Wellman Hall, University of California, Berkeley of the rolling terrain is
immense, and the
! Berkeley
Its days as “Berzerkly,” when
precipitous drops into the ocean
dramatic. This is an unspoiled
student protesters and tear-gas area of windswept ridges,
clouds filled the streets in the sheltered valleys, and deserted
1960s, are only a fading memory beaches (see p76). d Muni Bus 76
now, although Telegraph Avenue
still keeps some of the counter-
cultural traditions alive. A great $ Sausalito
A former fishing community
university, “Cal’s” faculty boasts and now an upscale commuter
some dozen Nobel Laureates, area and tourist haven, this small
while beautiful parks, tree-lined town offers spectacular views of
streets, and unique shops typify the city from its Bridgeway
this East Bay enclave. Berkeley Avenue promenade. Historically,
continues to give more “power it has been an artists’ town, with
to the people” than any other US an eccentric mix of residents
city, with a host of public services (see p54). Bungalows cling to
and aid to the disadvantaged that the hillsides and boats fill the
puts other communities to picturesque marinas, many of
shame. d BART Berkeley them houseboats that locals live
in year-round. Excellent
@ Oakland
Gertrude Stein’s famous
restaurants, accommodations,
and some unique shopping
dictum about her home town, possibilities, too. d US 101
that “there is no there there,” is
being challenged these days by a
very proactive new mayor, Jerry
Brown (see p39). Oakland’s
image, notorious for racial unrest
and crime in the past, is being
cleaned up to present a more
visitor-friendly face, and there
has been an influx of creative
types who have moved here to
flee the high rents of San
Francisco. Oakland’s attractions
include huge Lake Merritt, which
offers a range of recreational
possibilities, a beautiful Mormon
temple and its Museum of Cali-
fornia (see p126). d BART 12th St Marina, Sausalito
From Sausalito, the Call of the Sea is a tall-ship that sails on the 123
Bay. Call (415) 331-3214 or look at www.callofthesea.org for details.
Great Bay Area Universities
Palo Alto’s Stanford University is
the Bay Area’s most famous
private institution of higher
learning, inaugurated in 1891.
However, in terms of intellectual

clout, the University of California
at Berkeley, the oldest campus in
the California system, stands
shoulder to shoulder, considering
the number of Nobel Laureates
on the faculty and its international
importance. Stanford is known for Greek Theater, Mount Tamalpais
business, law, and medicine,
Berkeley for law, engineering, and meadows for kite flying. The
nuclear physics. Both universities steep, rough tracks here gave
are among the most selective in rise to the invention of the
the country.
mountain bike. d Hwy 1
% Mill Valley
Home to a well-known film & Stinson Beach
Since the early days of the
festival, but perhaps more 20th century, this has been a
famous as the quintessential popular vacation spot; the first
Marin hometown. It’s wealthy, visitors came on ferries from San
relaxed, and beautiful, and the Francisco and were met by
well-educated populace is given horse-drawn carriages. Stinson
to progressively liberal views on remains the preferred swimming
just about every topic. The old beach for the whole area (see
part of town is flanked by p76), and nearby Seadrift is an
wonderful stands of redwoods, upscale community of second or
lined with old buildings that third homes of the wealthy. The
house restaurants and unusual stretch of soft sand here and the
shops, and the whole centers spectacular sunsets set off the
around an eternally pleasant quaint village, with its good
public square where people restaurants and interesting
come to hang out. d Off Hwy 101 shops. You can reach it via the
coast route, but the drive up and
^ Mount Tamalpais
No more breathtaking view
over Highway 1 provides the
most dramatic arrival, affording
exists than that from the summit inspiring views as you exit the
of mystic “Mount Tam,” sacred forest onto the bare headlands.
to the Native Americans who d Hwy 1
once lived here. At 2,570 ft
(785-m) high, those who hike up
to the summit can take in * Bolinas
The next community up
practically the entire Bay Area at from Stinson is a hippie artists’
a glance. The area all around is a village that time forgot. Intensely
state park, a wilderness nature private, the citizens regularly
preserve with more than 200 take down all road signs indica-
miles (320 km) of trails that wind ting the way to their special
through redwood groves and place to keep visitors from
alongside creeks. There are finding them. Potters and other
picnic areas, campsites, and craftspeople sell their wares in

the funky gallery, organic A Morning Walk
produce and vegetarianism are Around Berkeley
the rule, and 1960s idealism still
Begin at the University
predominates. d Hwy 1 Visitor Center on Oxford
St at the end of University

( Palo Alto and Stanford
An erstwhile sleepy
Avenue, where you can
pick up information and
maps. Follow around to
university town, Palo Alto has
University Drive and on to
most recently experienced a the university campus,
boom as the hub of Silicon passing Romanesque
Valley, and driving force of the Wellman Hall, then take a
“New Economy.” Although a lot left on Cross Campus
of the gilding has lately fallen off Road. Straight ahead is the
main campus landmark,
the lily, this town has been left the 307-ft (94-m) Sather
with a considerably dressed-up Tower, also known simply
appearance, as well as many as the Campanile, based
fancy restaurants, hotels, and on the famous belltower in
shops. The town is home to Venice’s Piazza San Marco.
prestigious Stanford University, Now continue on to rejoin
with its beautiful, well-tended University Drive and go
campus (see p79). d Hwys 101 & 82 around to the Hearst
Greek Theater, venue for
excellent concerts of all
) Tiburon
Possibly Marin County’s
sorts. Next, head for
handsome Sather Gate,
smartest community, it stands which leads into Sproul
as a less hectic alternative to Plaza, epicenter of the
Sausalito for its views and student Free Speech
restaurants. Here, 100-year-old Movement protests that
erupted into almost non-
houseboats (“arks”) have been stop socio-political unrest
pulled ashore, lined up, and in the 1960s and 1970s.
refurbished, forming what is
called “Ark Row,” where you’ll Exit the campus onto
find shops and restaurants that Telegraph Avenue, a kind
of Haight-Ashbury East-
enhance the charm of this Bay with radical vibes all
waterfront village. Tiburon also its own. Cody’s, at the
offers scenic parks along the corner of Haste Street, is
shore, facing Angel Island and Berkeley’s most famous
the city. d Hwy 131 bookstore, and one block
over is idealistic People’s
Park. Continue on back to
Bancroft Way to pay a visit
to the excellent University
Art Museum and the
Pacific Film Archive.
After your walk, for lunch

try the unique Blue Nile,
(2525 Telegraph Ave at
Dwight Way • (510) 540-
6777 • Dis. access • $$).
It offers Ethiopian family-
style dining, with delicious
stews and homemade
honey wine.
Tiburon
125
Left Octopus, California Ecosystems Center & Right Gold Rush Artifacts
Oakland Museum of CA Features

! The Building
The museum building is an ^ Earthquake Artifacts
A collection of objects that
outstanding example of modern pertain to the 1906 earthquake
design. Opened in 1969, it is are on display here, including
composed of reinforced concrete porcelain cups and saucers fused
and consists of three levels of by the heat of the fire that
tiered terraces. To soften the destroyed so much of the city.
angularity, roof gardens have been
planted, accented with sculpture.
& Dream on Wheels
“Seekers, Innovators and
@ California Ecosystems
The Natural Science Gallery
Achievers” celebrates the
“California Dream,” in which the
is located on the first level. It automobile played so large a part
features “A Walk Across in the postwar boom. A drive-in
California,” including a diorama restaurant sign, jukebox, and
of a Sacramento delta marsh gleaming hot-rod capture the feel
showing fish, bird, and insect of the 1950s.
life, and another of a mountain
lion and its prey, demonstrating
nature’s food chain. * Art Gallery
The third level is devoted to
the Gallery of California Art,
£ The Earliest Californians

The Cowell Hall of California
featuring works by artists who
have studied, lived, and worked
History on the second level here. Included are works by
traces early human history in the California Impressionists and
state, documented by basketry, members of the Bay Area
stone tools, clothing, and rituals. Figurative movement. Check the
website for details of the Art and
$ Mission-era Artifacts
An 18th-century icon of St
History Galleries’ opening times.
Jerome is just one remnant of

the Spanish Mission years. You’ll ( Photography Gallery
The Gallery of California Art
also find early colonial tools, and also has a fine collection of the
a section of adobe wall. work of California photographers,
including Ansel Adams, Edward
% Gold Rush Artifacts

“Immigrants and Settlers”
Weston, and Dorothea Large.
and “Adventurers and Gold-

seekers” chronicle the lives of ) California Crafts
The largest collection of
those who came to California decorative work, including murals
from all over the world in the 19th and furniture, by California Arts
century, hoping to strike it rich. and Crafts practitioners Arthur
You’ll see gold prospecting tools. and Lucia Kleinhaus Mathews.
126 Oakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is undergoing

renovations; check website for updates: www.museumca.org
Left Roller Coaster, Santa Cruz Right Santa Cruz coastline
Best of the Rest

! San Rafael
Located in the heart of % Woodside
This bucolic residential area
Marin County, this town has a is home to many of the Bay
charming historic center loaded Area’s first families, who built
with good restaurants and fabulous mansions here in the
shops. When the street market late 19th century. d Hwy 280
takes over the main drag every
Thursday evening, it’s
transformed into an impromptu ^ LaTheHonda
most picturesque way
pleasure fair. d Hwy 1 101 to make the approach to the tiny
community of La Honda and the
@ Belvedere Island
This garden island, attached
Skyline Boulevard (see p60) is
Old La Honda Road. d Hwy 280
by a causeway to Tiburon, is one
of the most exclusive residential
areas in the Bay. It’s worth a visit & Los Gatos & Saratoga
These outpost towns still
to take in the palatial homes and retain some frontier atmosphere,
their sumptuous settings. although they are now commu-
nities for the movers and shakers
£ Point Reyes
This wild and windswept
of Silicon Valley. d Hwy 280
peninsula is a huge haven for

wildlife, including a herd of tule * San Jose
This sprawling town is an
elk, birds, and wildflowers. The integral part of Silicon Valley
area is also home to cattle and enterprises and has popular
dairy ranches. You can watch attractions. d Hwy 101
migrating whales offshore from
December to mid-March. d Hwy 1
to Olema, then signposted to Point Reyes ( Winchester
Mystery House
The eccentric 19th-century home
$ San Gregorio and

Pescadero
of the rifle heiress, Sarah
Winchester, took 38 years to build
San Gregorio, protected by cliffs, and includes stairways leading to
is the Bay Area’s oldest nudist nowhere and windows set into
beach. Pescadero, in addition to floors. d 525 S Winchester Blvd, San
having a state beach with Jose • Open 9am–8pm daily • (408) 247-
wonderful tidepools, is also a 2101 • Adm
lovely town that looks like some-
thing out of the Old West,
complete with a whitewashed ) Santa Cruz & Capitola
Some of the Bay’s best
wooden church. The thriving swimming, as well as the
farming community produces famous Boardwalk, a vintage
asparagus and pumpkins. d Hwy 1 amusement park. d Hwy 1
127
Left Via Diva Right Greenwood
Bay Area Shops

! Stanford
Center
Shopping
% Via Diva
This collection of art and
One of the first shopping centers artifacts includes treasures from
in the Bay Area, it has been China, Indonesia, India, Thailand,
catering to the needs of pampered and South America. d 516 Irwin San
Stanford students for some 50 Rafael • Off Hwy 101 • (415) 257-8881
years. The shops and eateries are
in keeping with the university’s
exclusive status. d 180 El Camino ^ What the Traveller Saw
Highlights upscale world art.
Real, Palo Alto • Hwy 101 • (650) 617-8200 Balinese wood carvings, silk ties,
blankets, weavings, fountains,
@ Sweet Dreams
An old-fashioned candy
and much more. d 1880 Solano Ave,
Berkeley • Hwy 880 • (510) 527-1775
shop, with jars and jars of all the
traditional treats, plus some
innovative confections. Adjoining & Greenwood
Marin’s finest shop for one-
is a charming toyshop, too, as of-a-kind handcrafted items
well as Teddy’s Little Closet kids’ made by local, regional, national,
clothing. d 2901 College Ave, Berkeley and international artisans. d 32
• Hwy 80 • (510) 549-1211 Miller Ave, Mill Valley • Off Hwy 101
• (415) 389-5037
£ Gene Hiller
For over 50 years, this
* Paul & Shark
exclusive menswear store has An Italian haberdashery for
been offering the finest imported the yachting set. Elegant clothing
designer clothing – including for men and women. d 22 El Portal,
Zegna and Canali – from classic Sausalito • Hwy 101 • (415) 331-0588
formal to casual. d 729 Bridgeway
Ave, Sausalito • Hwy 101 • (415) 332-
3636 ( Shady Lane
The undertaking of a collec-
tive of artists who wanted to
$ Claudia Chapline Gallery

and Sculpture Garden
create a showcase for their work.
It’s the perfect place to find a
In a great setting near the beach, special gift. d 441 University Ave, Palo
the Chapline sculpture garden is Alto • Hwy 101 • (650) 321-1099
full of delights, especially the
brilliant kinetic pieces driven by
the wind, which are the work of ) Global Exchange
Beautiful handmade creat-
Lyman Whitaker. Inside, the ions from Vietnam, Indonesia,
variety and quality of painted and Mexico, and Senegal. The
mixed-media work is very producers receive most of the
compelling. d 3445 Shoreline Hwy, profits. d 2840 College Ave, Berkeley
Stinson Beach • Hwy 1 • (415) 868-2308 • Hwy 80 • (510) 548-0370

Price Categories

Above The Lark Creek Inn
Places to Eat
! The Lark Creek Inn
The redwood-shaded garden ^ Chez Panisse
A very popular Berkeley spot
loveliness of this Marin hideaway which has been serving up
is impossible to fault. The food is excellent California cuisine since
innovative New American cuisine 1971. The upstairs café offers a
such as roasted parsnip soup cheaper alternative. d 1517 Shattuck
with black truffles (see p63). Ave, Berkeley • Hwy 80 • (510) 548-5525
d 234 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur • Hwy 101 • Closed Sun • $$$$$
• (415) 924-7766 • Dis. Access • $$$
@ This first-rate Italian has a

Piazza d’Angelo & Café Eritrea d’Afrique
An acclaimed restaurant
serving Eritrean and Ethiopean
creative menu and a fine cuisine in a relaxing and friendly
selection of wines. Indoor and atmosphere. They offer an all-
outdoor seating, a lavish dessert you-can-eat veggie buffet on
cart, and a very happening feel. Wednesdays and Fridays. d 4096
d 22 Miller Ave, Mill Valley • Off Hwy 101 Telegraph Ave, Oakland • Hwy 880 • (510)
• (415) 388-2000 • Dis. Access • $$ 547-4520 • $
£ Las Camelias
Everything here is home- * Alpine Inn
In a building that dates back
made and unusual. The decor is to 1850, this greasy beer bar with
particularly appealing, most of a garden is popular with locals and
the art being the work of the Silicon Valley workers alike for its
charming hostess-owner. d 912 substantial burgers and fries. d
Lincoln Ave, San Rafael • Hwy 101 • (415) 3915 Alpine Rd, Portola Valley • Hwy 280
453-5850 • Dis. Access • $$ • (650) 854-4004 • Dis. Access • $
$ The Bridgeway Café

Great for breakfast or lunch; ( Buck’s
After a long hike on one of
you’ll find a range of American the many trails in Woodside, enjoy
favorites at this cozy little diner a hearty Woodsider omelet and
looking right out onto the Bay. coffee at this kitsch restaurant.
d 633 Bridgeway, Sausalito • Hwy 101 d 3062 Woodside Drive, Woodside • Hwy
• (415) 332-3426 • Dis. Access • $ 280 • (408) 851-8010 • Dis. Access • $$
% Parkside
Creative American brunch at ) Gayle’s
This bakery and rosticceria
picnic tables on the patio, or in has an extraordinary selection of
the dining room. Try the Tomales gourmet treats – try the
Bay mussels in curry broth. d 43 cappucino cake. d 504 Bay Ave,
Arenal Ave, Stinson Beach • Hwy 1 Capitola • Hwy 1 • (831) 462-1200 • Dis.
• (415) 868-1272 • Dis. Access • $$ Access • $

STREETSMART
Planning Your Trip
132
Getting to San

Francisco
133
Getting Around San
Francisco
134
Things to Avoid
135
Budget Tips
136
Special Needs Tips
137
Banking and
Communications
138
Security and Health
139
Shopping Tips
140
Eating and
Accommodation Tips
141
Places to Stay
142–149
Streetsmart
Left San Francisco Visitor Information Center Right Outdoor dining in the fall
Planning Your Trip

! Tourist Offices
Plenty of websites, % Visas
All travelers to the * When to Go
The nicest months
representing the principal US need a valid passport, are September and
tourist agencies, tell you including returning US October. In summer,
how to tackle the prac- citizens. Most European however, the coastal
tical aspects of organ- citizens, as well as Jap- areas and the city tend
izing a visit to San anese and a few others, to be blanketed in fog
Francisco. Or they will need a non-refundable and points inland are
send you materials by return ticket from outside blazing hot and dusty.
standard mail (see box). the US to qualify for a 90-
day visa. Travelers visiting
( What to Take
@ Media
The city’s daily and
under the Visa Waiver
Program must register at
Generally, San
Franciscans dress
weekly newspapers – the https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov. casually. The best rule of
weekly ones are free and Other nationalities must thumb is to travel with as
super-abundant – are secure a visa, before little as possible – if
loaded with information traveling, from a US you’re missing some-
about all the things going consulate or embassy. thing, you can buy it.
on in town. Perusing
their websites will give
you a head start on ^ Insurance
Buy a good travel ) How Long to Stay
Unless you are very
planning your trip. d San insurance policy to cover unusual, you will fall in
Francisco Chronicle (daily): lost baggage, canceled love with this city and
www.sfgate.com • San flights, and minor medical want to stay as long as
Francisco Bay Guardian bills. The US generally possible. A week should
(weekly): www.sfbg.com does not have public allow you to take in all
• SF Weekly: ww.sfweekly. healthcare so inter- the major sights; two
com • Bay Area Reporter national health coverage weeks will leave enough
(gay): www.ebar.com • San is the wisest way to go. time to explore the coast
Francisco Frontiers (gay): and the Wine Country.
www.frontiersweb.com
& US Embassies
and Consulates Tourist Offices
£ Internet
Any search for
US diplomatic missions
are found in virtually San Francisco
places, people, or events every country’s capital. Convention and
to do with San Francisco They can provide you Visitors Bureau
will turn up a plethora of with information about 201 3rd St, CA 94103
finds, but two sites give San Francisco, as well as • (415) 974-6900 •
a good overview and answer questions about www.sfvisitor.org
guidance. These are: visa requirements. San Francisco
www.sanfranciscocity d Australia: www.dfat. Visitors Information
search.com and www. gov.au/missions • Canada: Center
baycityguide.com www.usembassycanada. 900 Market St • Map
gov • France: www.amb- Q4 • (415) 391-2000
$ Maps
San Francisco is very
usa.fr • Germany: www.
usembassy.de • Ireland: California Welcome
easy to find your way http://dublin.usembassy. Center
around, but study the gov/ • New Zealand: http:// Pier 39, 2nd level
general layout in advance. wellington.usembassy.gov • (415) 956-3493
Free maps are available • UK: www.usembassy. • www.visitcwc.com
from tourist offices. org.uk
132 Preceding pages: one of San Francisco’s cable cars with Alcatraz
in the background.
Streetsmart
Left Greyhound bus Right Amtrak train
Getting to San Francisco

San Francisco
! International $ Customs
You’re allowed to * Amtrak
The main Bay Area
Airport bring in 1 liter of liquor terminal for the US
Fifteen miles (24 km) and 200 cigarettes duty- national railway system
south of the city and free, and $100 worth of is in Oakland, offering a
linked by two freeways gifts. If you’re carrying free shuttle bus to the
and a host of inexpensive more than $10,000 in city, stopping at the
public transport options, anything negotiable, you CalTrain station in the
including BART, and must declare the excess. South of Market district
private shuttles, as well and at the Ferry Building.
as taxis and limos, SFO
is very conveniently % Left Luggage
SF International has
The Coast Starlight route
runs from Seattle down
located and efficiently lockers in all boarding to Los Angeles daily, and
run. The airport has three areas that you can secure vice versa. d Amtrak:
terminals, and the largest for up to 24 hours. For 1-800-872-7245 • www.
international terminal in anything bigger or that amtrak.com
the US. Information you want to store for a
booths are located
downstairs and are open
longer time, go to the
Luggage Storage in the ( Shuttles
One of the best ways
from 8am to 1:30am. upper-level passageway to get from and to the
d SFO: (650) 876-7809 between the South and airport is to use the
• www.flysfo.com International Terminals. shuttle services, some of
which are door-to-door.
Oakland
@ International ^ Lost Property
Each airport has a
You can pick them up on
the upper level at SFO.
Airport Lost Property service. If When making the return
The East Bay’s major you leave something on trip, however, you’ll need
airport is only a bit public transport, there to book the door-to-door
farther away from the are numbers for each type. Others leave
city, so it can be a handy system, and taxi com- regularly from major
alternative. There are panies will also try to hotels and pick-up spots.
fewer crowds and a locate your possessions. d SFO Airporter: (415) 558-
choice of transport to get d SF Property Control: 850 8500; www.supershuttle.
you back and forth. d Bryant St; (415) 553-1377 com • Bayporter Express:
Oakland International • Muni (415) 923-6164 1-877-467-1800 or
Airport: (510) 577-4000 • BART (510) 464-7090 (415) 467-1800;
• www.oaklandairport.com www.bayporter.com
& Greyhound
£ San Jose
International
There are around 12
buses every 24 hours ) Taxis and
Limousines
Airport from Los Angeles to San Taxis can be taken from
If your destination is Francisco and vice versa. the lower level of SFO,
more Silicon Valley than It takes 8–12 hours but is and a typical journey into
San Francisco, you’ve the cheapest option. Grey- the city will cost roughly
come to the right airport. hounds also go all over $40, plus a standard 10
It’s 50 miles (80 km) the US, but, although low percent tip, and including
south of the city but only in dollars, you pay in time a $2 surcharge for trips
20 miles (32 km) south and discomfort. from the airport.
of Palo Alto. d San Jose d Transbay Terminal • 425 Limousines are more
International Airport: (408) Mission St • (415) 495-1575 costly and you will have
277-4759 • www.sjc.org • www.greyhound.com to book in advance.

Streetsmart
Left Cycling in Golden Gate Park Right Bay Area ferry
Getting Around San Francisco

! Cable Cars
Pure tourism, of $ BART
The Bay Area Rapid & Taxis
Due to a very tight
course, but also one of Transit system (BART) licensing system, San
the most enjoyable ways serves a large arc of San Francisco does not have
of getting around Francisco and connects it enough taxis, despite the
Downtown and Fisher- very efficiently with the poor car-to-parking-spot
man’s Wharf. Pricey at $5 East Bay. A convenient ratio. You can usually
per ride, it becomes a line also runs non-stop to snag one by lining up at a
bargain if you buy the San Francisco International major hotel.
CityPass ($54), which Airport (see p133). BART
also gets you into many
sights and is good for
stations are underground
and many are shared with * Car
Rent a car only if you
unlimited travel on the Muni Metro stops. d (415) want to head outside the
Muni transport system 989-2278 • www.bart.gov city. Driving here can be
for a week from the time challenging to the
of first use. The Muni
Passport can be used on % CalTrain
Since Peninsula
uninitiated, and it isn’t
necessary for getting
the entire Muni system residents voted against around, given the decent
including cable cars. extending BART down public transportation.
south, this commuter d American Automobile
@ Streetcars
The Muni Metro
train provides the most
efficient public service to
Association: 150 Van Ness
Ave; (415) 565-2711
trams mostly run under places such as Palo Alto
Market Street and then
make their way into the
and Stanford University
(see p125). It is comfort- ( Motorbike
Zipping up and down
western neighborhoods. able, punctual, and San Francisco’s hills on a
One line, the F, consists cheap. d CalTrain Terminal: motorcycle or scooter
of vintage streetcars 4th St between Townsend can be great fun. It’s also
from around the world & King • 1-800-660-4287 a fast, efficient way to
that decoratively traverse • www.caltrain.com get around town. The
the Market Street circuit same driving and parking
above ground.
^ Ferries
The ferries provide
rules apply to motorbikes
as to cars. d Dubbelju
Buses wonderful, inexpensive Motorcycle Rentals: 271
£ To use Muni, you can excursions. The Blue & Clara St, between 5th & 6th
either get the CityPass, Gold Fleet serves Angel • (415) 495-2774 • www.
or you can purchase Island and Sausalito from dubbelju.com
Muni Passports for 1 day Pier 41, and the East Bay
or 1 month, and for
special events. The bus
and Tiburon from the Ferry
Building. Hornblower ) Bicycle
Scenic routes have
system is simple to use serves Alcatraz from Pier been designated. It’s a
and will get you around 33. Golden Gate Transit great, healthy way to
this compact metropolis serves Sausalito and take in the wonderful
in good time, though Larkspur from the Ferry sights and parks, and
rarely on schedule. Many Building. d Blue & Gold convenient given the
bus stops have local bus Fleet: (415) 773-1188; www. city’s small size.
route maps, as well as blueandgoldfleet.com • d Bicycle Information Line:
maps of the system as a www.hornblowermarine. (415) 585-2453 • Blazing
whole. d (415) 673-6864 com • Golden Gate Transit Saddles: Fisherman’s
• www.sfmta.com/cms/ Ferry Service: (415) 923- Wharf; (415) 202-8888;
home/sfmta.sfmta 2000; www.goldengate.org www.blazingsaddles.com
134 Organized tours of the city, Muir Woods, the Wine Country, and
Monterey cost from $41. Telephone (415) 434-8687 for details.
Streetsmart
Left Parking instruction sign Right Waiting staff should be tipped
Things to Avoid
! Don’t Call it
“Frisco”
clearly what can happen.
AIDS and other STDs
snatching do exist, and
it’s also true that certain
Either say it all – “San have been epidemic areas should be avoided
Francisco” – or call it here. Use a condom. after dark. However,
simply “The City.” It’s the normal attentiveness
name of a saint, after all,
of whom San Franciscans % Political
Incorrectness
should be sufficient.
are every bit as proud as

they are of their city.
San Francisco is a city
where diversity is * Bad
Neighborhoods
embraced whole- Even the seediest neigh-
Driving heartedly, and supporting borhoods are pretty safe
@ Challenges it is public policy. San in broad daylight, but
When you parallel park Franciscans generally they, and parks, should
pointing up the hill, turn applaud differences of be sidestepped at night,
your wheels toward the ethnicity, race, age, when muggings are most
center of the street; belief, gender, sexual likely. That said, there are
when pointing downhill, orientation, and ability. very few areas that are
turn your wheels toward Anyone who mocks or really perilous within the
the sidewalk. That’s the denigrates anyone else city, and virtually none in
way to prevent runaway for any of these reasons areas that a tourist is
cars. If you are driving a has not understood what likely to frequent.
manual shift rather than makes this city tick.
an automatic car, use
( Forgetting to Tip
your emergency brake
when trying to start from ^ Smoking
California law makes
Restaurant waiting
staff depend on their tips
a dead stop going up a smoking in any enclosed to make a living – the
steep hill – your mastery public place illegal – and salary paid is barely a
of the clutch under these that includes bars. tenth of what is needed
extreme conditions may Smelling cigarette smoke to make ends meet. The
not be up to the job. The or even seeing someone usual gratuity is 15 per-
speed limit everywhere smoking here is so rare cent, though you can
is 25mph (40kmph) or as to be almost non- reduce it to 10 percent if
less, and all passengers existent. If you must light the service was not to
must wear seat belts. up, there are back patios your liking. Taxi drivers
at some clubs where should be tipped about
£ Underdressing
No matter how sunny
smoking is allowed, and
some hotels offer
15 percent, and hotel
staff should receive $1
it is when you go out in smoking rooms. whenever they provide
the morning, always take any sort of service.
a jacket or a windbreaker.
& Panhandlers,
Petty Crime and
City weather is very
variable and it will doubt- Mugging ) Age Restrictions
and ID
less be cool, if not cold, San Francisco does have If you’re over 21 but look
damp or wet, by the time more than its share of younger, carry an ID with
you return in the evening. homeless people, and you showing your age if
many of them do resort you want to try out some
$ Unsafe Sex
For all its true sexual
to begging. For the most
part, they are merely
of the bars and clubs in
town or want to drink
liberation, unsafe sex is annoying, not dangerous. alcohol in a restaurant or
always a no-no in this However, pick-pocketing a shop. You must be over
city that has seen all too and purse- and camera- 18 to buy cigarettes.
Curbing your wheels when parking in the city is law-enforced – 135

you will receive a fine if you fail to follow the practice.
Streetsmart
Left Discount museum tickets Right Discount ticket agency
Budget Tips
! Discount
Tickets
Air week. It currently incor-
porates nine additional
Harvest Ranch Market,
which carry a fantastic
In these days of attractions, including selection of gourmet
deregulation and airlines admission to the delectables. d Real Food
squeezing out travel Exploratorium (see p94), Company: 3939 24th St,
agencies, finding bargain SFMOMA (see pp26–9), 1001 Stanyan St, 2140 Polk
flights is anybody’s the California Academy of St & 3060 Fillmore St •
game. Most people find Sciences (see pp22–3), California Harvest Ranch
that the best bet is the and more, and the Market: 2285 Market St
Internet, but don’t fail to number of sponsoring between Sanchez & Noe
contact local and national attractions is increasing.
discount shops, too. dwww.citypass.com
* Public
Passes
Transport
@ Hotel Deals
Again, trawl the % Cheaper Sleeps
Hostels, regardless
Muni offers 1-day,
1-month, and special
Internet and sound out of your age, are an event passes, all at great
your local agencies to excellent alternative in savings compared to
see what sort of promo- San Francisco. There are paying $1.50 per ride on
tions might be out there. two locations run by the buses and streetcars
Many hotels offer some Hosteling International, and $5 per ride on the
fantastic bargains at one in Downtown and cable cars (see p134).
certain times of the year. the other between
Fisherman’s Wharf and
( Communications
£ Fly-Drive
Packages
the Marina (see p148).
d American Youth Hostels:
Many services
provide toll-free numbers
This sort of offer is (415) 863-1444 • www. when calling within the
somewhat superfluous if norcalhostels.org US from any phone –
your main purpose is to most of them begin with
get to know the city and
little else outside it. ^ Cheaper Eateries
San Francisco has an
800, 877, or 888. Buying
phone cards to use for
However, if you want to amazing number of low- making toll calls can
dive into the fruit of the priced joints that often mean great savings.
vine in the Wine Country serve wonderful food. At Internet access is free at
(see pp32–5) or into the some of the Mexican the New Main Library
waves of the blue Pacific places in the Mission, for and at CompUSA. d New
Ocean in Santa Cruz, example, you can still fill Main Library: 100 Larkin St;
Monterey, and Carmel up on delicious burritos, (415) 557-4400; www.sfpl.
(see pp78–9), a car is a tacos, and the like, for lib.ca.us • CompUSA: 750
necessity. You may be under $5. Chinese Market St; (415) 391-9778
able to negotiate a lower restaurants are also
rate if you rent the car
for only part of your stay.
usually good value.
) Laundromats
Since so many San
Picnics Franciscans are apart-
& With so many clean,
$ Discount
Coupons beautiful parks, having a
ment dwellers, nearly
every block has a cheap
The best discount coupon picnic lunch is always a laundromat handy. Wash
of them all is the CityPass delightful option. There cycles run about 15-20
(see p134), which saves are plenty of deli- minutes and dryers 20–
you a bundle, especially supermarkets, such as 30 minutes. Watch your
on public transportation, the Real Food Company things, however, since
if your stay is for about a and the California theft is not unknown.
136 For discounted hotel rates in the city, visit the websites
www.hotels.com or www.priceline.com
Streetsmart
Left Disabled parking bay Right Muni streetcar
Special Needs Tips

! Unlimited
Parking
Free However, if you want to
know the specifics, you
can find at Pier 39, at
Castro and Market
Nowhere provides more should call in advance Streets, and at the Civic
advanced facilities for the and ask a few pointed Center, for example.
disabled than San Fran- questions. In general, the
cisco. There are specially
marked reserved spots
newer the hotel, the
more it is geared up to & Independent
Living Resource
for disabled parking, meet special needs. Center
usually with a blue-and- This organization can
white wheelchair sign ”Kneeling” Buses provide every sort of
and a blue curb. Often $ Only some of the information you might
there’s a blue-and-white Muni city buses have this need about services for
wheelchair stenciled on feature, whereby the bus travelers with mobility
the pavement, too. There’s can be hydraulically low- problems, as well as for
no charge for parking, ered, allowing wheelchair- those with develop-
either in these spaces or bound people to board, mental disabilities. d 649
any other, as long as you and then be secured in a Mission St • (415) 543-6222
display a disabled special part of the bus. • www.ilrcsf.org
placard. d Department of The “Muni Access
Motor Vehicles • 1377 Fell
Street • (800) 777-0133
Guide” will give you
pointers on how to make * Braille Institute
This volunteer
the most of the system, organization provides
@ Special Prices
In addition to free
and it is free from Muni
Accessible Services.
information about accom-
modations, museums,
parking for the disabled, and other attractions that
all Bay Area transit com-
panies offer discounted % Ramped Curbs
Wherever you go, all
offer Braille placards and
postings. d 1-800-272-
fares for disabled over town you will find 4553 • www.braille
passengers, including that all the sidewalks institute.org
BART, Muni, AC Transit, have been provided with
and Golden Gate Transit.
National parks issue
ramped access, at least
at intersections, if not for ( Crisis Line for the
Handicapped
special passes for the every driveway as well. A 24-hour hotline for
disabled that entitle them Ramped access is also persons who have
and passengers in the standard for every major disabilities or their
same vehicle to enter public building, including helpers. It provides on-
free. In addition, many museums, concert halls, the-spot advice on any
attractions offer reduced big hotels, government subject that might come
entrance fees to the buildings, even ferries. up during a visit to the
disabled. d BART Passes city. d 1-800-426-4263
Office • (510) 464-7133
^ Accessible Toilets
Required
Disabled-accessible
toilets are provided in ) Muni Accessible
Services
£ Accessibility many places, including If you have any questions
The San Francisco large hotels and restau- about public transporta-
Convention and Visitors rants, attractions, and tion in the city, this is the
Bureau (see p132) pub- municipal areas. Some number to call. This is
lishes a free guide that are inside the buildings, also the place to obtain
indicates which hotels but there are also a your disabled discount
comply with the number on the street – card. d (415) 923-6142
American Disabilities Act. the green kiosks that you • www.sfmuni.com

Streetsmart
Left Exchange office sign Right ATM machine
Banking and Communications

! Exchange
Exchange offices are $ Travelers’ Checks
Nowadays these are & Telephones
San Francisco’s area
found at San Francisco more of a nuisance than code is 415, but neigh-
International Airport (see a convenience. Cashing boring localities have
p133), in some Down- them in banks and other codes. If you are
town banks, and at exchange offices can be calling from within the
American Express and a time-consuming hassle. same area, you do not
Thomas Cook agencies. However, if you buy them dial the area code; con-
However, fees and bad in dollars, they’re the versely, if you are calling
rates of exchange are the same as cash and can be from outside the area,
norm. It’s better to avoid used for goods and you must dial the area
the problem altogether services of any sort – but code and precede it with
by using ATM machines. you may need photo ID. a “1.” From pay phones,
calls cost 50 cents and
@ ATM Machines
For virtually all travel % US Currency
US banknotes can be
up. Toll-free numbers
start with 800, 877, 888,
purposes, this is by far confusing because or several new similar
the best way to get cash, they’re all the same size prefixes. For directory
either through your home and color. They come in information, dial 411.
checking account or by denominations of $1, $5, International calls should
securing a PIN number to $20, $50, and $100, each be preceded by 011.
use with your credit card. with a different Founding
The rate of exchange is
generally the best for
Father or US president
pictured. The coins are * Voice Mail
The use of this
that day, and the small easier, being different service has reached
fees charged by the from each other. The 1- epidemic proportions in
banks are less than those cent coin (or penny) is the US, and you may find
charged by exchange copper-colored; the 5- that you rarely, or never,
offices. Best of all, you cent coin (nickel) is nickel- rouse an actual person
don’t have to wait in long colored; the 10-cent coin on the other end of many
lines or carry ID. (dime) and the larger 25- calls. Leave a message,
cent coin (quarter) are with a call-back number,
£ Credit Cards
Paying with plastic is
silver-colored. then hope for the best.
a way of life in the US.

Use cash for small items, ^ Post Offices Internet
Most US post offices ( There are many cafés
but pay for everything are open from 9am to that offer internet services
else with a credit card, 5:30pm Monday to Friday around town, usually
if possible. Most hotels and 9am to 2pm on from about $10 per hour.
require a credit card Saturdays. Stamps can
number to book a room,
and an imprint of one
be purchased here, from
some hotels, and from ) Courier Services
FedEx,UPS, and DHL
upon checking in. And vending machines. If you serve international
you will not be able to need to mail something needs, but you should
rent a car without one. other than postcards and also be aware that the
If your card is lost or letters, wait in line at the US Post Office offers
stolen, call the toll-free nearest post office. overnight delivery, both
number of your company Otherwise, drop your to major cities within the
and you will not be stamped mail off at the US and to selected cities
responsible for any hotel desk or in any abroad, and at much
further charges made. street mailbox. more reasonable costs.
138 There are $2 bills and $1 coins in circulation in the US but they
turn up very rarely.
Streetsmart
Left San Francisco ambulance Right Police car
Security and Health

! Earthquake
Procedures
arrives by being aware of
your surroundings. Don’t & Police Reports
If you are the victim
Should an earthquake walk into less than salu- of a crime of any sort,
strike, stay calm. If you brious areas, especially you should report it at
are indoors, a good spot after dark, unless you’re your nearest police
to stand is under a door- sure of where you’re department. Especially if
frame. If driving, stay in going or you’re in a group. it involves the loss of
your car and park in an money or any valuables,
open place, not under a
bridge or viaduct. If $ 911Dial this number
including credit cards, as
you will need a copy of
outside, try to get to an whenever an emergency the police report in order
open area. Major quakes of any sort comes up. It’s to make a claim against
are rare, but minor ones a free call from any your insurance.
happen all the time and phone. Be sure to have
are mostly harmless. all the information ready
– where you are and * Clinics
Walk-in emergency
@ Consulates
Most major countries
what has happened – so
they know which service
clinics can be found all
around town. d Physician
have consulates in the to send out to you. Access Center: 26
city. If anything untoward California St; (415) 397-2881
occurs, contact your
national representative. % AIDS
This virus is still very
• Haight-Ashbury Free
Clinic: 558 Clayton St;
much a public health (415) 552-2114
£ Petty Crime problem. Throughout the
This sort of thing
does exist, so it’s best to
Bay Area there are ample
free public health ( Hospitals
San Francisco has
avert the danger before it responses with a range several major hospitals,
of services, including located in various
free check-ups. Your part districts. d Davies Medical
Consulates is not to take risks – use Center: Castro St at
Australia a condom. d AIDS-HIV Duboce; (415) 565-6060
(415) 536-1970 Nightline: (415) 434-2437 • St Francis Memorial
(English only) • California Hospital: 900 Hyde St; (415)
Canada AIDS Foundation Hotline: 1- 353-6300 • San Francisco
(415) 834-3180 800-367-2437 or (415) 863- General Hospital: 1001
France 2437 (multilingual) Potrero Ave; (415) 206-8111
(415) 397-4330
Germany ^Helplines
A number of help- ) Health
Claims
Insurance
(415) 775-1061 lines exist to provide Unless you go to one of
support and information the free clinics, you will
Ireland
for almost any problem. have to pay for any type
(415) 392-4214
d SF Rape Treatment of health care you
The Netherlands Center: (415) 821-3222 receive, and you will
(650) 403-0073 • Suicide Prevention: (415) usually have to arrange
781-0500 • Victims of Crime for such payment before
New Zealand
Resource Center: 1-800- you actually receive the
(415) 399-1255
842-8467 • New Leaf treatment. Also confirm
United Kingdom (for gays, transgender, that the hospital or clinic
(415) 617-1300 lesbians, and bisexuals): you are using accepts
(415) 626-7000 your form of coverage.
Before you leave home make sure you understand how payments 139
and/or reimbursements on your health insurance are handled.
Streetsmart
Left Picture market, Union Square Right Japan Center
Shopping Tips
! Department
Stores $ Flea Markets and
Thrift Shops & Sales Tax
In the US sales tax is
The big guns are all well This sort of shopping can added to your total bill,
represented in this city net you some real rather than included in
that loves looking good. treasures and keep your the listed price, apart
Most of them are bank account intact, too. from groceries. In San
clustered around Union One of the most central Francisco, the sales tax
Square. The more flea markets is in Bernal is currently 8.5 percent,
upscale the department Heights. Thrift shops are and hotel tax is 14 per-
store, the more it feels all over town – two of cent. However, tax varies
like the exclusive parlor the best are located in from state to state.
of some deluxe hotel, the Mission, the Good-
where you are the
pampered guest. A very
will Store and the Salva-
tion Army Thrift Store. * Corner Stores
Every two blocks or
comfortable way to shop Both offer everything so all around the city,
(see pp50–51). from vintage clothing to except in the most
miscellaneous junk. exclusive neighborhoods,
@ Boutiques
The smaller shops
d Alemany Flea Market:
100 Alemany Blvd at US
there are corner stores
that sell a little bit of
generally feature more 101, Bernal Heights everything – some fresh
interesting and quirky • Goodwill Store:1580 produce, maybe some
merchandise – not count- Mission St • Salvation Army deli items, a few toiletry
ing all the international Thrift Store: 1500 Valencia St necessities, and general
boutiques that also circle groceries. Just be aware
Union Square. Some of
the more offbeat neigh- % Garage and
Sidewalk Sales
that you may pay as
much as 50 percent more
borhoods, such as Hayes A thoroughly enjoyable for everything you buy in
Valley (see p100), offer custom that can unearth a corner store.
some really original some surprising plunder
designs, often by local or
regional talents.
in a city with so much
style. To find a good ( Refunds
If you have second
garage sale, keep an eye thoughts about some-
£ Malls
There are no real
out for announcements
tacked to telephone
thing you bought, you
have a right to return it
American-style malls in poles, or take a weekend for a refund. If it is defec-
San Francisco. The ones stroll in one of the likelier tive, you are entitled to a
that come closest are the neighborhoods – such as replacement or a refund.
San Francisco Shopping the Haight, the Castro,
Center (see p51), the
Westfield Shopping
and the Mission.
) California
Attorney
Center (see p51), and
Stonestown Galleria (see ^ Bargaining
In established outlets
General’s Office
Public Inquiry Unit
p120). Others are in bargaining is generally If you have been dealt
historic structures such out of the question. with by a retailer or
as Ghirardelli and The However, in flea markets, service-provider in an
Cannery (see pp12–13), garage sales, and some illegal way, you can take
or have architectural of the funkier ethnic your complaint here so
originality, such as the stores, it is is acceptable. that court proceedings
Embarcadero Center (see Make a counter offer and can be initiated or other
p50) and the Japan haggle it down to a sanctions put into effect.
Center (see p99). mutually satisfactory sum. d 1-800-952-5225
140 For any unresolved complaints on a product you have purchased,

call the Better Business Bureau on (866) 411-2221.
Streetsmart
Left Hotel grading sign Center Ice cream cake Right Clam chowder and sourdough bread
Eating and Accommodation Tips

! California Cuisine
With over 5,000 $ Drinks
Good restaurants * Making Hotel
Reservations
places to dine and/or have sommeliers, so you San Francisco generally
drink in the city, you can usually depend on fills up quickly in almost
know that food is impor- their wine choices to go every price category, so
tant to San Franciscans. with what you have don’t waste a moment
It’s a moot point whether ordered. If you choose securing a reservation.
so-called “fusion” cuisine your own wine, remem- Telephone bookings are
got its start in the city ber that California wines accepted with a valid
some decades ago but it are identified by grape credit card, although
has certainly reached its rather than by region. If some may require a fax
apotheosis here – with beer is more your thing, before confirming.
all the international influ- there are excellent local
ences, it was inevitable
that chefs would begin
brews that compete very
well with the best Euro- ( Extra Costs
and Tipping
borrowing and melding pean products. And don’t Parking at Downtown
ingredients, flavors, and forget to try the local hotels is almost always
methods from a broad mineral waters (see p67). extra, paid on a per night
mélange of international basis, and a flat fee of up
styles. The result is
California Cuisine. % Tax and Tipping
Sales tax applies to
to $1 (sometimes more)
is charged for each phone
restaurants, so 8.5 per- call made from the room,
@ Other Cuisines
It would be difficult
cent will be added to your
total check. You should
even if it is a toll-free
number. Anything you take
to think of an authentic leave at least a 15 per- from a frigobar will be sur-
national cuisine that is cent tip (see p135). You charged. You will receive
not represented by at may add the tip to your an itemized bill when you
least one restaurant in credit card slip, or leave check out. Tipping is
the city. That includes it in cash on the table. important for any service
Tibetan, Eritrean, Afghan, provided (see p135).
Kurdish, and Bolivian, as
^ Choosing
Locations
Hotel
well as the more stan-
dard Thai, Vietnamese, Do you want to be right ) Traveling
with Kids
Russian, and most in the heart of the action? Many hotels levy no
European countries. Do you want a view of extra charge for children
the Bay? Do you want to under 12 staying in their
£ Reservations
If you’re hankering
experience one of the
unique neighborhoods?
parents’ room, and some
raise the age as high as
after a fancy meal in one Once you’ve decided, you 18 – ask in advance.
of the more famous can zero in on the right However, some charge
restaurants, you’d do price-range (see pp142–9). an extra $10–$40 for a
best to call in advance, roll-away bed and charge
sometimes up to two
months ahead in the & Hotel Gradings
Accommodations of
for a child of any age.
Some of the best family-
case of one or two of the every sort are to be friendly accommodations
top Bay Area draws. For found in the city and its are found among the
the middling places, environs. There is a star- motels along the Marina
making a reservation a based grading system, and in the Fisherman’s
day or two before should which pertains to certain Wharf area, where
suffice, unless you amenities, such as tele- parking is usually
choose a weekend night. phone, TV, frigobar, etc. included too.

Streetsmart
Left Fairmont Hotel Right Mark Hopkins Inter-Continental
Hilltop Hotels
! The Ritz-Carlton
If you want the
The stained-glass dome
in the lobby gives it a
delivers on service.
Details include compli-
ultimate in luxury and grand feel. Marble baths mentary breakfast and
thoughtful service, this is and canopy beds in some morning newspaper –
the place to come. The rooms, complimentary and some of the very
views from the perfectly limousine service, and best vistas in the city.
appointed rooms are every comfort seen to. d 2901 Pacific Ave • Map
magnificent, the staff at d 905 California St • Map E2 • (415) 346-2880
the top of their game, N3 • (415) 989-3500 • www.hoteldrisco.com
and the food sublime. • www.renaissancehotels. • Dis. access • $$$
d 600 Stockton St • Map com • $$$$
N4 • (415) 296-7465
* Queen Anne
• www.ritzcarlton.com
• Dis. access • $$$$$ % Huntington
Situated at the top of
Built in 1890, this old
mansion has been
Nob Hill, across from lovingly refurbished
@ Mark Hopkins
Inter-Continental
Grace Cathedral, this
hotel is like staying in the
according to Victorian
taste. Rooms are all
The Top of the Mark clubby apartment of a different and filled with
restaurant is a major pull, rich uncle with impec- antiques. Breakfast is
of course, with its 360- cable taste. The rooms complimentary, and your
degree panorama, and are luxurious, there’s an morning newspaper, too.
the service is genuinely excellent restaurant, and The views are delightful.
caring. The rooms are a spa where you can get d 1590 Sutter at Octavia
provided with every a champagne facial. • Map F3 • (415) 441-2828
amenity and achieve an d 1075 California St • Map • www.queenanne.com
excellent standard of N3 • (415) 474-5400 • Dis. access • $$
comfort. d 1 Nob Hill • www.huntingtonhotel.
• Map N3 • (415) 392-3434
• www.markhopkins.net
com • $$$$
( Hotel Sausalito
This warm, inviting
• Dis. access • $$$$
^ Laurel Inn
This stylish hotel
hotel offers luxurious
rooms and suites with
£ Fairmont
“Opulent” and
is located in Presidio
Heights, and is decorated
park and harbor views.
d 16 El Portal (at Bridgeway),
“palatial” barely begin to in a hip mid-century Sausalito • (415) 332-0700
describe this grande fashion. The rooms have • Dis. access • $$
dame of San Francisco kitchenettes and some
hotels, taking pride of
place on Nob Hill. The
feature CD and DVD
players. Breakfast is ) Claremont
and Spa
Resort
rooms and service are included and there is free This country club-style
commensurate with its parking. d 444 Presidio resort in the Berkeley
status. d 950 Mason St Ave • Map E3 • (415) 567- Hills was built in 1915
• Map N3 • (415) 772-5000 8467 • www.jdvhospitality. and has the feel of that
• www.fairmont.com com • Dis. access • $$$ era, newly restored.
• Dis. access • $$$$ There are business ser-
& Hotel Drisco vices, a fitness center,
$ Renaissance
Stanford Court
This Pacific Heights
property is one of the
two pools, tennis courts,
and views of Golden Gate
Long a business favorite, Leading Small Hotels of Bridge. d 41 Tunnel Rd,
it’s just near the top of the World, and, although Berkeley • (510) 843-3000 •
Nob Hill and handy to the elegance is perhaps a www.claremont resort.com
everything Downtown. little too understated, it • Dis. access • $$$
142 Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit

cards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning
Price Categories
For a standard, $ under $100
double room per $$ $100–$200
night (with breakfast $$$ $200–$250
if included), taxes $$$$ $250–$300
Streetsmart
Above Lobby, Hyatt Regency
Traditional Hotels
! Mandarin Oriental
Located on the top $ Park Hyatt
This is the smallest & Hyatt Regency
The 15-story lobby
11 floors of Downtown’s and most luxurious of the has long plants trailing
third-tallest building, this four city Hyatts, and it is down, a waterfall, and
is one of the classiest situated very near the glass elevators. Try the
hotels in the city. Its waterfront. Rooms have revolving restaurant on
East-meets-West decor good views of the Bay the roof for its views.
is elegant, its restaurant Bridge or the city, if you d 50 Drumm St • Map N6
one of the finest, and the get the right ones. You’ll • (415) 788-1234 • www.
rooms, amenities, and find that staff greet you sanfranciscoregencyhyatt.
service superb. Splendid by name and the rooms com • Dis. access • $$$
views. d 222 Sansome St have personal touches.
• Map N5 • (415) 276-9888
• www.mandarinoriental.
d 333 Battery St • Map N5
• (415) 392-1234 • www. * Four Seasons
Designed with the
com • Dis. access • $$$$$ parksanfrancisco.hyatt.com expense-account traveler
• Dis. access • $$$$ in mind, this place has
@ The Pan Pacific every sort of business
Marble bathrooms,
some with Jacuzzis, and % Sir Francis Drake
Where the doormen
amenity, including two
phone lines with a high-
the fluffiest bathrobes wear Beefeater costumes speed Internet connection
are just some of the and the cable cars glide in each room, and a well-
comforts at this daringly by constantly. This run business center. d
designed modern hotel. splendid Art Deco land- 757 Market St • Map P4 •
The atrium lobby towers mark is just a block off (415) 633-3000 • www.
17 stories high, with a Union Square. All in all, a fourseasons.com • Dis.
glass elevator. Free use very festive and colorful access • $$$$$
of towncars is a special feel, both in the public
plus. d 500 Post St •
Map P3 • (415) 771-8600
and private rooms. d 450
Powell St • Map P4 • (415) ( The Westin St
Francis
• www.panpacific.com 392-7755 • www.sirfrancis This grand San Francisco
• Dis. access • $$$$ drake.com • Dis. access institution still shines in
• $$$ its public rooms, but it’s
£ Palace become a tour-group
Dating from 1875,
this historic landmark ^ Hotel Nikko
High-tech and
mediocrity otherwise. The
tower rooms have phen-
emanates an aura of minimalist white marble omenal views. d 335
architectural splendor interiors radiate modernity Powell St • Map P4 • (415)
that nevertheless in this Japanese-style 397-7000 • www.westin.
whispers refinement. The environment. Its cool com • Dis. access • $$$
stupefyingly gorgeous comfort and tranquil
Garden Court and the
original Maxfield Parrish
luxury, such as silk
wallpaper, soothe the ) Ritz-Carlton Resort
A rambling mansion
mural in the Pied Piper spirit and free the mind. on its own verdant bluff,
Lounge are national The excellent Anzu overlooking the Pacific.
treasures. The rooms are restaurant creates The perfect retreat from
wonderful, too, but sadly the same peaceful which to enjoy the Bay
without views. d 2 New atmosphere. d 222 Area. d 1 Miramontes
Montgomery St • Map P5 Mason St • Map Q3 Point Rd, Half Moon Bay
• (415) 512-1111 • www. • (415) 394-1111 • www. • (650) 712-7000 • www.
sfpalace.com • Dis. access hotelnikkosf.com • Dis. ritzcarlton.com • Dis.
• $$$ access • $$$ access • $$$$$
143
Streetsmart
Left Campton Place Right The Clift
Boutique Hotels
! Campton Place
A member of the $ The Clift
“Equal parts wit, & The Maxwell
This beautiful Art
Leading Small Hotels of surrealism, and glamour.” Deco hotel dates from
the World and definitely So say the proprietors of 1908 and has a hand-
one of San Francisco’s this latest Ian Schrager some style, accented by
finest, this place aims to property, with interiors Edward Hopper prints.
provide personal by Philippe Starck. You’ll Parking is offered – a
attention to every guest. laugh with delight at the great rarity. d 386 Geary
Expect to find the best of visual jokes, including a St • Map P3 • (415) 986-
everything. Its restaurant chaise very, very longue 2000 • www.maxwellhotel.
also has national ranking. by none other than Dalí. com • Dis. access • $$
d 340 Stockton St • Map d 495 Geary St • Map P3
P4 • (415) 781-5555
• www.camptonplace.com
• (415) 775-4700 • www.
morganshotelgroup.com * The Inn
Above Tide
• Dis. access • $$$$$ • Dis. access • $$$ The only hotel built
directly on the Bay. The
@ Monaco
In the heart of the % Triton
Perhaps the city’s
views from guestroom
balconies are stunning,
Theater District, this most original hotel, and the ambience
quirky but extremely featuring avant-garde serene. A wonderful
comfortable hotel is run touches – evening tarot choice, convenient to the
to perfection. The fairy- card readings, feather city via the Golden Gate
tale decor is joyously boa rentals, and several Bridge or a ferry ride.
original, being at once a suites designed by rock d 30 El Portal, Sausalito
celebration of color and celebrities, including • (415) 332-9535 • www.
elegance, and the beds Jerry Garcia. It’s all too innabovetide.com • Dis.
may be the most cool for words; you might access • $$$$
comfortable in the world. run into Cher or Courtney
The stylish restaurant is
an attraction in itself.
Love, both of whom have
stayed here. d 342 Grant ( Mill Valley Inn
Combining the
d 501 Geary St • Map P3 Ave • Map P4 • (415) 394- sophistication of a
• (415) 292-0100 • www. 0500 • www.hoteltriton. European hotel with the
monaco-sf.com • Dis. com • Dis. access • $$ cozy charm of a
access • $$$ California mill town, this
^ Rex inn is tucked away in a
£W
Talk about trendy in
Steeped in California’s
literary and artistic
redwood grove. d 165
Throckmorton Ave, Mill
this town and all conver- traditions, this great little Valley • (415) 389-6608
sations will lead to the W hotel boasts an intellec- • www.marinhotels.com
hotel. Minimalist with tual air and decor that • $$
luxury touches suggest 1920s salon
throughout. Rooms have
cordless phones and CD
society. Still, the rooms
have the very latest ) Garden
Court Hotel
players. The clientele that touches, such as voice Elegant, remodeled
come for drinks and mail, CD players, and guestrooms feature
general confabulation are writing desks for guests private terraces in this
modish trendsetters too. to pursue their own Spanish-style hotel.
d 181 3rd St • Map Q5 creativity. d 562 Sutter St d 520 Cowper St, Palo Alto
• (415) 777-5300 • www. • Map P3 • (415) 433-4434 • (650) 322-9000
starwoodhotels.com • www.thehotelrex.com • www.gardencourt.com
• Dis. access • $$$$ • Dis. access • $$$ • Dis. access • $$$

Price Categories
Streetsmart
Above The Red Victorian
B&Bs and Guesthouses

! White Swan Inn
This quaint B&B is $ The Red Victorian
Inspired along hippie & Albion House Inn
The nine rooms here
like a country inn in the ideals, you meet the are all cozily decorated
heart of Downtown with owners and other guests and have names such as
bright floral prints and and engage in intelligent The Cabrillo Room and
Victorian-style canopied conversation around the the Sir Francis Suite.
beds. Champagne in the breakfast table. Each Janis Joplin (see p55)
late afternoon and a guestroom is also used to stay in the Joplin
great English breakfast designed to celebrate an Room, which has its own
are complimentary. aspect of world love. sundeck. d 135 Gough St
d 845 Bush St • Map N3 d 1665 Haight St • Map E4 • Map F4 • (415) 621-0896
• (415) 775-1755 • www. • (415) 864-1978 • www. • www.albionhouseinn.com
whiteswaninnsf.com redvic.com • No air • $$
• No air conditioning • $$ conditioning • $
*Panama Hotel
@ The Union
Street Inn % Inn 1890
Located in Haight
A friendly, eccentric
place, filled with period
Combining the elegance Ashbury, this Queen Anne- eclectic touches. Rooms
and gentility of an style building dates back have names such as the
Edwardian home, just up to 1890. This cozy hotel Bordello Room, and the
from the Marina and right has hardwood floors, bay Captain’s Cabin – each
on fashionable Union windows, and fireplaces. with its own tale to tell.
Street. The individually The spacious guest rooms d 4 Bayview St, San Rafael
decorated rooms are all have brass or iron queen- • (415) 457-3993 • www.
spacious, with original sized beds with oversized panamahotel.com • No air
antiques and art, fine comforters, bathrobes, conditioning • $$
linens, and complimen- and slippers. d 1890 Page
tary chocolates, fresh
flowers, and fruit.
St • Map D4 • (415) 386-
0486 • www.inn1890.com (The Pelican Inn
Majestically
d 2229 Union St • Map E2 • No air conditioning • $$$ positioned deep in a
• (415) 346-0424 valley, each of the seven
• www.unionstreetinn.com
• No air conditioning • $$ ^ Mountain
Inn
Home rooms has antiques, and
a roaring fire is lit every
Step out of the door of day in the inglenook
Hotel Vitale this quaint mountainside fireplace. d Muir Beach
£ The amenties reign inn and be blown away • (415) 383-6000 • www.
supreme at this urban by the spectacular views pelicaninn.com • No air
oasis looming above the of San Francisco Bay and conditioning • $$$
city’s spectacular water- Mt Tamalpais. Just 20
front. Check out your
preferred style of pillow
minutes from downtown,
this hiker’s paradise ) Cliff Crest
B&B Inn
in the pillow library, invites you to meander to Surrounded by redwoods,
attend a complimentary the beachside town of the rooms in this Queen
morning yoga class, relax Stinson or to historic Anne Victorian are graced
in one of the outdoor Muir Woods. Afterwards, with fresh flowers, and
rooftop soaking tubs, or indulge in hearty gourmet some have views of the
enjoy luxury spa services. meals. d 810 Panoramic Bay. d 407 Cliff St, Santa
d 8 Mission St • Map H2 Hwy, Mill Valley • (415) Cruz • (831) 252-1057
• (415) 278-3700 • www. 381-9000 • www. • www.cliffcrestinn.com
hotelvitale.com • Dis. mtnhomeinn.com • Dis. • No air conditioning
access • $$$$$ access • $$$$ • Dis. access • $$
Recommend your favorite hotel on traveldk.com 145

Streetsmart
Left Hotel del Sol Right Edward II Inn and Pub
Neighborhood Hotels
! Hotel Del Sol
Called “festive and $ Stanyan
Hotel
Park
& Seal Rock Inn
Handy for Cliff House
spacious,” this place Listed on the National and Land’s End (see p115),
really is a ray of sun- Register of Historic as well as the Palace of
shine. Bright colors and Places, this noble the Legion of Honor.
cheerful patterns greet Victorian has been Rooms are large, though
you around every corner, receiving guests since plain, and there’s free
and the staff is just a 1904. Right on Golden parking and a heated pool.
nice as can be. An Gate Park. Decorated in d 545 Point Lobos Ave •
especially great place to period style, breakfast Map A3 • (415) 752-8000 •
bring the kids. d 3100 and afternoon tea are www.sealrockinn.com • $$
Webster St • Map E2 included. d 750 Stanyan
• (415) 921-5520 • www.
thehoteldelsol.com • No air
St • Map D4 • (415) 751-
1000 • www.stanyanpark. * Jackson Court
Located in Pacific
conditioning • $$ com • No air conditioning Heights, this is a magnifi-
• Dis. access • $$ cent 1900 brownstone
@ Edward
and Pub
II Inn mansion. The wood-
Located just up from the % Phoenix Hotel

Johnny Depp, REM,
paneled parlor is an
inviting place, and the
Marina, this is a real find and the late John F. stone fireplace provides
if you want to be close Kennedy, Jr have all a warm glow for after-
to the sights, although stayed here. Located a noon tea. d 2198 Jackson
the street tends to be bit too close to the St • Map F2 • (415) 929-
very busy. Nevertheless, Tenderloin for all but the 7670 • www.jacksoncourt.
this truly charming 1914 most self-assured. com • $$$
Edwardian inn features Breakfast is included,
rooms full of antiques
and fresh flowers, and
and the popular
restaurant/bar draws ( Twin Peaks Hotel
Clean, quiet and
serves complimentary hipsters from all over the comfortable, but it
afternoon drinks and hors city. d 601 Eddy St • Map doesn’t get any simpler
d’oeuvres, as well as Q2 • (415) 776-1380 • than this. The advantage
breakfast. d 3155 Scott www.jdvhospitality.com is the close proximity to
St at Lombard • Map E2 • Dis. access • $$ the Castro, Hayes Valley,
• (415) 922-3000 • www. and the Mission. d 2160
edwardii.com • Dis. access
• $$ ^ Tuscan Inn
It’s a Best Western,
Market St • Map F4 • (415)
863-2909 • No en-suite
but one of the stylish bathrooms • No air
£ Marina Motel
Tucked away in a
ones. Located right in
Fisherman’s Wharf,
conditioning • $
flower-filled Mediterranean
courtyard decorated with
staying here takes some
of the touristy edge off ) Pacific
Inn
Heights
murals, this motel offers the neighborhood. Situated on a quiet block

guests a peaceful oasis Features include a close to transportation,
right in the heart of the mirrored wall in each this 1960s motel is modern
beautiful Marina District. room, free coffee and and comfortable. There is
Rooms are simple and tea, and a complimentary on-site parking and some
clean, and parking is limousine service. d 425 rooms have kitchenettes.
included. d 2576 Lombard North Point St • Map K3 • d 1555 Union St • Map F2
St • Map E2 • (415) 921- (415) 561-1100 • www. • (415) 776-3310 • www.
9406 or 1-800 346-6118 • tuscaninn.com • Dis. pacificheightsinn.com
www.marinamotel.com • $$ access • $$ • No air conditioning • $

Price Categories
Streetsmart
Above Inn on Castro
Gay and Lesbian Hotels

! Inn on Castro
The very friendly $ 24 Henry
Guesthouse & The Inn San
Francisco
owner of this B&B This charming building This fine Victorian
seems to have thought was constructed in the mansion serves a buffet
of everything to make Victorian style in the late breakfast in charming
your stay in the heart of 1880s. It is situated on a parlors. The garden has a
the Castro as pleasurable quiet, tree-lined street redwood hot tub, and
as possible. He’s ready just three blocks from the sundeck with a
with maps and advice on Castro. All of the six rooms panoramic view of the
where to go. Comfort is have high ceilings and city. d 943 South Van Ness
key, in bright rooms filled period furniture. Guests St • Map F5 • (415) 641-
with art and plants. d 321 can enjoy free wireless 0188 • www.innsf.com •
Castro St • Map E5 • (415) internet connection and a No air conditioning • $$
861-0321 • www.innon complimentary breakfast.
castro.com • No air con-
ditioning • Dis. access • $$
d 24 Henry St • Map F4
• (415) 864-5686, (800) 900- * The Parker House
This Edwardian mini-
5684 • www.24henry.com mansion has expansive
@ Chateau Tivoli
Rooms and suites in
• No air conditioning • $ gardens and sun decks.
Just steps away from gay
this stunning old building
are named after Mark % Castro Suites
This restored 1890s
bars and restaurants.
d 520 Church St • Map F5
Twain, Enrico Caruso, Italianate Victorian has • (415) 621-3222 • www.
Jack London, and others, views of Downtown and parkerguesthouse.com
to remind guests of San the Bay. Accommoda- • No air conditioning • $$
Francisco’s illustrious tions are a mixture of
history in the arts. Rooms
are furnished with four-
contemporary furniture,
original art, and plants. ( Bel Abri
Rooms feature
poster beds, fireplaces, The kitchen is equipped shutters, French tapes-
bay windows, American with dishwasher, clothes tries, and wrought-iron
Renaissance pieces, and washer, and microwave. pieces. Most rooms
the like. d 1057 Steiner St d 927 14th St • Map E4 include a fireplace, and
• Map E3 • (415) 776-5462 • (415) 437-1783 • www. two of the rooms also
• www.chateautivoli.com castrosuites.com • No air have Jacuzzis. d 837
• No air conditioning • $$ conditioning • Dis. access California Blvd, Napa • (877)
• $$$ 561-6000 • www.belabri.
£ The Willows Inn net • Dis. access • $$
This restored 1903
^ Renoir Hotel
Edwardian house is
conveniently located
A friendly, gay
boutique hotel with the ) Meadowlark Inn
In the heart of the
close to public transport best views of the annual Wine Country, this
in Castro’s gay community. gay pride march on elegant guesthouse is
The interior is a blend of Market Street. Built in situated on an estate
handcrafted willow furni- 1909, it was restored to with gardens, meadows,
shings, antique dressers, its turn-of-the-20th- and great facilities such
and cozy comforters. century charm in 2001. It as a clothing-optional
Kimono bathrobes are also has a bar, lounge, and mineral pool, hot tub,
provided. d 710 14th St • café. d 45 McAllister St sauna, and whirlpool spa.
Map E4 • (415) 431-4770 • • Map Q3 • (415) 626-5200 d 601 Petrified Forest Rd,
www.willowssf.com • www.hotelrenoirsanfran Calistoga • (707) 942-5651
• No en-suite bathrooms cisco.com • No air con- • www.meadowlarkinn.com
• No air conditioning • $$ ditioning • $$ • No air conditioning • $$
San Francisco is, of course, a tolerant city and virtually all hotels 147
will welcome gay and lesbian guests with a smile.
Streetsmart
Left Chelsea Motor Inn Right San Remo
Budget Hotels and Hostels

! Coventry
Motor Inn $ Cow Hollow
Motor Inn & Downtown Hostel
Action-central for all
A good, basic motel, and Suites the major sights. Rooms
offering large pleasant Larger-than-average hold up to five beds. All
rooms with bay windows, rooms. Floral wallpaper major public transportation
located on the Marina’s and traditional furniture is just outside. Nightly
“Motel Row.” It isn’t give it a homey feel. movies, free Wi-Fi access,
beautiful, but it’s func- Some suites have Oriental walking tours, an events
tional and reliable. All carpets accenting wood board, and lots of tourist
rooms are no-smoking, floors, marble fireplaces, info too. d 312 Mason St
and parking is compli- and antiques. Free parking • Map P3 • (415) 788-5604
mentary. A minimum stay and a no-smoking floor. • www.norcalhostels.org
may apply on some week- d 2190 Lombard St • Map • No en-suite bathrooms •
ends. d 1901 Lombard St E2 • (415) 921-5800 • No air conditioning • $
• Map F2 • (415) 567-1200 www.cowhollowmotorinn.
• www.coventrymotorinn.
com • Dis. access • $
com • Dis. access • $
* Fisherman’s
Wharf Hostel
Marina Inn On a wooded hilltop, this
Beck’s Motor % The charm of a San hostel is housed in Civil
@ Lodge Francisco Victorian awaits War-era buildings. Free
This standard 1960s you here. The marble breakfast, Wi-Fi, and daily
motel is handy for the lobby is the focal point of activities. It’s just a short
Castro, the Lower this four-story hotel built walk to everything along
Haight, and the Mission. in 1924, and the sitting the Bayshore. d Fort
It’s one of those no-frills, room is the setting for Mason, Bldg. 240 • Map F1
what-you-see-is-what- Continental breakfasts. • (415) 771-7277 • www.
you-get places, simple After a day’s sightseeing, norcalhostels.org • Dis.
and very serviceable, and return to the inn for access • $
quiet, given its prime afternoon sherry. d 3110
location. Free parking is a
plus, and cable TV, too.
Octavia St at Lombard
• Map F2 • (415) 928-1000 ( Zen City Center
The center has
d 2222 Market St • Map • www.marinainn.com several comfortable,
F4 • (415) 621-8212 • No air • No air conditioning • Dis. quiet rooms available for
conditioning • $ access • $ those who are interested
in learning about Zen
£ Chelsea
Motor Inn ^ San Remo
North Beach’s
practices. d 300 Page St •
Map F4 • (415) 863-3136 •
Vaguely English Tudor in biggest bargain is full of www.sfzc.org • Dis. access
style, with a slate roof, charms. Each room is • No en-suite bathrooms
the rooms are comfor- decorated with antiques, • No air conditioning • $
table and fairly large, and and the corridors feature
a few have bay windows.
The location is convenient
brass railings and hang-
ing plants under sky- ) Marin
Headlands Hostel
to the Marina and Pacific lights. Every room has its Nearby are the Muir
Heights. Free parking, own sink, while other Woods, and great
cable TV, and in-room facilities are down the beaches. d Fort Barry,
coffee maker. All no- hall. d 2237 Mason St Bldg 941, Field & Bunker
smoking. d 2095 Lombard • Map K3 • (415) 776-8688 Rds • (415) 331-2777
St • Map E2 • (415) 563- • www.sanremohotel.com • www.hiusa.org • No en-
5600 • www.chelseamotor • No en-suite bathrooms • suite bathrooms • No air
inn.com • Dis. access • $ No air conditioning • $ conditioning • $

Price Categories
Streetsmart
Above Executive Suites
Apartments and Private Homes

! Oakwood
Courtyard
Geary
$ Edward II Inn
and Suites & The Monroe Hotel
A San Francisco
Located close to Union Edward II Apartment Victorian built in 1906.
Square and public Suites are across the Amid the mansions of
transport, this modern street from the Edward II Pacific Heights, the
apartment block includes Inn (see p146), near the Monroe combines the
amenities such as a yacht harbor. Many of the best features of a hotel
swimming pool, sauna, suites feature whirlpool and an apartment.
concierge, dry cleaning baths, kitchens, and wet Included in the price are
service, fitness center, bars, and all have period American-style break-
and business center. The furnishings. d 3155 Scott fasts and four-course
furnished and serviced St at Lombard • Map E2 dinners. Maid service is
apartments can be • (415) 922-3000 • www. also provided. d 1870
rented for a minimum of edwardii.com • No air Sacramento St • Map N1
30 days. d 639 Geary St conditioning • Dis. access • (415) 474-6200 • www.
• Map P4 • (415) 749-0101 • $$ monroeresidenceclub.com
• www.oakwood.com • $$ • No air conditioning • Dis.
Executive Suites % The Harcourt

A budget option in a
access • $
@ Furnished apartments
are available in several
convenient location for
Downtown. Maid service * Bed & Breakfast
San Francisco
locations, with a 30-day and towel exchange are All homes participating in
minimum stay. This provided weekly here. the service have been
company offers all the There are also a carefully selected.
comforts of home, with laundromat and TV Private residences in
the added amenities of a viewing rooms, plus a every desirable part of
hotel. Apartments have games area. All guests San Francisco are listed,
fully equipped kitchens have use of the ice including Pacific Heights
and utilities are included, machine, refrigerator, and and the Marina. d 1-800-
as well as local phone tea and hot chocolate are 452-8249 or (415) 899-0060
calls, cable TV, and maid available. d 1105 Larkin St • www.bbsf.com • $–$$,
service. Some properties • Map P2 • (415) 673-7721 depending on placement
have pools and fitness • No air conditioning
centers. d 1388 Sutter St
• Map P1 • (415) 776-5151
• Dis. access • $
( Home
Inc.
Exchange
• www.executivesuites-
sf.com • Dis. access • $$ ^ Nob Hill Place
A short walk to
Home exchangers simply
trade their homes at a
Downtown, the furnished time that is convenient to
£ Grosvenor Suites
An all-suite hotel on
studios and executive
apartments boast superb
both parties. d 1-800-877-
8723 or (310) 798-3864
Nob Hill. The renovated views and are available • www.homeexchange.com
rooms offer kitchens with for a minimum of 30
refrigerators and micro-
waves. There are house-
days. All rooms include
fully equipped kitchens, ) The Invented City
This home exchange
keeping and laundry internet access and agency provides web
services, voice mail, cable cable TV. Some parking is access to members
TV, and a valet service available if reserved in worldwide who exchange
(small fee). d 899 Pine St advance. d 1155 Jones St their homes for short and
• Map N3 • (415) 421-1899 • Map N3 • (415) 928-2051 long-term stays. d 41
• www.grosvenor suites. • www.nobhillplace.com Sutter St • (415) 846-7588
com • Dis. access • $$ • No air conditioning • $$ • www.invented-city.com

General Index
A Bagdad Café 113 Bed & Breakfast San
A16 (restaurant) 62 Bailey Banks & Biddle 120 Francisco 149
Absinthe 105 Baker Beach 76 beers 67, 141
Acquerello 63 Balmy Alley 47 begging 135
Index
Adams, Ansel 27, 126 Bambuddha Lounge 70, 90 Bel Abri 147
age restrictions 135 Bank of America 46 Belli, Melvin 54
AIDS 37, 135, 139 banking 138 Bellini, Giovanni 24
air travel 133, 136 banknotes 138 Belvedere Island 127
Alamo Square 48, 101 The Bar on Castro 112 Beringer Vineyards 33
Alamo Square Inn 145 bargaining 140 Berkeley 123
Albion House Inn 145 Barkdoll, Lloyd 17 Berkeley Hills 60
Alcatraz 6, 14–17, 59, 93 Barker, Arthur “Doc” 17 Betelnut 105
Alioto’s 97 Barney, Matthew 27 Biafra, Jello 54
Alpine Inn 129 bars 66–7 Big Basin State Park 61, 78
Alta Plaza 48 Downtown 90 Bikeway 47
Amber 112 Southern biking 73, 134
American Conservatory Neighborhoods 112 bike ride through the
Theater (ACT) 57 BART 134 Presidio 95
Americano Bar 66 baseball 73 Bimbo’s 365 Club 71
Amoeba Music 104 Basic Instinct 53 Birnbaum, Dara 27
Amtrak 133 basketball 73 Bix 90
Ana Mandara 97 Bay Area 122–9 Bishoff, Elmer 27
Anchorage Shopping map 122 “Bloody Thursday” (1934)
Center 12 Oakland Museum 37
Angel Island State Park features 126 Blue Danube 65
59, 93 restaurants 129 Blue Front Café 105
Anglin brothers 16, 17 shopping 128 Blue Nile 125
Anza, Juan Bautista de 36 walk around Berkeley Boarman, James 17
apartments 149 125 boating 73
Aqua 63 Bay Area Discovery Bogart, Humphrey 53
Aqua Surf Shop 120 Museum 59 Bolinas 124–5
aquariums Bay Area Figurative Bolinas Beach 76
Aquarium of the Bay 13 movement 27, 126 Bond, James 9
Steinhart Aquarium 22, 58 Bay Bridge 37 Book Bay Bookstore 96
Arader, W. Graham III 89 Bay Meadows Racecourse Boom-Boom, Sister 54
Archbishop’s Mansion 145 73 Borders 120
architectural highlights 46–7 Bayshore area 92–7 Botanica Yoruba 45, 110
Aria 89 Beach Blanket Babylon 57 Botta, Mario 26
Arneson, Robert 27 Beach Chalet 47 Boudin Bakery 13
L’Art Deco Français 104 Beach Chalet Brewery Boulder Creek 78
art galleries 42–3 121 Boulevard 63, 113
see also museums beaches 76–7, 79 boutiques 140
Asian Art Museum 40–41 Baker Beach 76 Boxer, Barbara 37
AsiaSF 111 Bolinas Beach 76 Braille Institute 137
Astrid’s Rabat Shoes 110 China Beach 76 Brainwash 64
Atlas Café 65 Half Moon Bay 77 Brand X Antiques 110
ATM machines 138 Land’s End 77 Brannam, Sam 36
auto-racing 73 Muir and Red Rock Braque, Georges 27
Ayala, Juan Manuel de 15 Beaches 76 Brest, Harold 17
Ocean Beach 77 Bridgeway Café 129
B Pescadero Beach 77 Broadway 88
B&Bs 145 San Gregorio Beach 77 Brooks Shoes For Kids 104
Bacall, Lauren 53 Stinson Beach 76 Brown, Jerry 39, 123
Bacar 112 Beat writers 83 Brown, Willie 55
Badlands 69, 109 Beck’s Motor Lodge 148 Bubble Lounge 66, 90
Baez, Joan 55 bed and breakfast 145 Buck’s 129
150
budget travel 136 cathedrals clinics 139
hotels and hostels 148 Grace Cathedral 7, 24–5, Clos Pegase 32
Buena Vista Café 97 44, 47, 83 clothes 132, 135
Buena Vista Park 48, 101 St. Mary of the Clown Alley 91
Bufano, Beniamino 19, 25 Assumption 44 Club Six 70
Buffalo Paddock 21 St. Mary’s Cathedral 47 clubs
Index
Bullitt 53 St. Patrick’s Cathedral Southern
Burgett, Aaron 17 45 Neighborhoods 112
Burma Superstar 121 Central Neighborhoods coastal beaches 76–7, 79
Burning Man 75 98–105 cocktails 67
buses 133, 134, 137 Hippie tour of Haight- coffee 67
Ashbury 101 coins 138
C map 98 Coit Tower 46, 47, 85
Cable Car Museum 41 restaurants 105 Coit Tower murals 88
cable cars 6, 10–11, 134 shopping 104 Cole, Theodore 17
Caen, Herb 55 Chapeau! 121 Collectibles of Asia 96
The Cafe 109, 111 Chateau Tivoli 147 Coltrane, St. John 44
Café Claude 64 Chelsea Motor Inn 148 Comix Experience 104
Café du Nord 111 Chenery Park 63 communications 136, 138
Café Eritrea d’Afrique 129 Cherry Blossom Festival Connery, Sean 16
Café Flore 65, 69, 109 74 consulates 132, 139
cafés 64–5 Chestnut Street 51 Contemporary Jewish
Downtown 90 Chez Panisse 63, 129 Museum (CJM) 29
Caffè Centro 63, 113 children, in hotels 141 Conzelman Road 60
Caffè Roma 85, 90 children’s attractions 58–9 Coppola, Francis Ford 55
Caffè Trieste 64, 85, 88, China Basin 108–9 corner stores 140
90 China Beach 76 Corona Heights Park 61
California Academy of Chinatown 7, 18–19, 83 Cost Plus 96
Sciences 22–3, 40 Chinese Culture Center courier services 138
California Attorney 19 Coventry Motor Inn 148
General’s Office Public Chinese Historical Society Cow Hollow Motor Inn
Inquiry Unit 140 of America Museum and Suites 148
California Historical and Learning Center 19 Coy, Bernard 17
Society Museum 29 Chinese New Year 75 credit cards 138
Calistoga Spa Hot Springs Chinese Six Companies 19 Cretzer, Joe 17
34 Chloe’s Café 65 crime 135, 139
CalTrain 134 Chow 113 Crisis Line for the
Cames, Clarence 17 Christopher-Clark Fine Art Handicapped 137
Campton Place 144 89 Crissy Field 94–5
The Cannery 12 churches 44–5 Crocker, Charles 8, 24, 39
Capitola 127 Cinco de Mayo 74 Crocker Galleria 50
Capone, Al 16 City College of San Crystal Way 45
Capp’s Corner 91 Francisco 47 curbs, ramped 137
Carmel 79 City Hall 39 Curran Theater 56
Carnaval 74 City Lights Bookstore 85, currency 138
Carol Doda’s Champagne 88 customs limits 133
& Lace Lingerie CityPass 136 cycling see biking
Boutique 104 Civic Center 46, 84
Carroll, Lewis 27 Claremont Resort and Spa D
cars 134, 135 142 Dalí, Salvador 27
parking 135, 137 Claudia Chapline Gallery Dark Passage 53
Cartoon Art Museum and Sculpture Garden day trips 78–9
43 128 de Kooning, Willem 27
Cassady, Neal 52 Cliff Crest B&B Inn 145 de Young 40
Castro District 107, 109 Cliff House 63, 115, 116, Degas, Edgar 27, 40
Castro Street 51 117, 121 Delfina 62
Castro Street Fair 75 The Clift 144 department stores 140
Castro Suites 147 climate 132, 135 The Depot 65
151
Destino 67, 112 Elbo Room 111 football 73
Dewey, Admiral 84 El Rio 111 Foreign Cinema 63
dialling codes 138 Elegant Illusions 96 Forever After Books
Diebenkorn, Richard 27 Elizabeth I, Queen 36 104
Different Light Ella’s 65 Fort Mason Center 48,
Bookstore, A 109, 110 The Embarcadero 93 94
Index
DiMaggio, Joe 85 Embarcadero Center 51 Fort Point Lookout 8

The Dining Room 91 Embarcadero Park 49 49-Mile Drive 60
Dirty Harry 53 embassies 132 Four Seasons 143
disabled visitors 137 emergencies 139 Fraenkel Gallery 42
disasters 37 Encantada Gallery 110 Francis of Assisi, St
discounts 136, 137 Enchanted Crystal 104 Grace Cathedral 24, 25
Divisadero 60, 61 The Endup 111 Mission Dolores 31
DNA Lounge 112 Eno, Brian 27 Shrine of St. Francis of
Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Esplanade 28 Assisi 45
Springs 35 exchange offices 138 Franklin, Benjamin 83
doctors 139 executive suites 149 Franklin, Rufus 17
Dolores Park 31 Exotic Erotic Ball 75 Fremont, John C. 8, 39
Dolores Park Café 64 Exploratorium 58, 94 Frey Norris Gallery 42
Domaine Chandon 33 extreme sports 73
Dottie’s True Blue Café 65 G
Douglas, Michael 53 F Gable, Clark 53
Downtown 82–91 The Factory 71 Galería de la Raza 43
cafés and bars 90 Fairmont 142 galleries 42–3
map 82 Fairmont Sonoma Mission see also museums and
North Beach sights 88 & Spa 35 galleries
restaurants 91 fairs 75 garage sales 140
shopping 89 Farallon 62, 91 Garcia, Jerry 55
walk around North Fear Forgets 17 Garden Court 63
Beach 85 Feinstein, Dianne 37, 39 Garden Court Hotel 144
Downtown Hostel 148 Ferlinghetti, Lawrence 52, The Garden Spot 120
Drake, Sir Francis 36 85, 88 gardens see parks and
drinks 67, 141 ferries 134 gardens
driving 135 festivals and parades 74–5 Gary Danko 97
Duchamp, Marcel 27 Filbert Street 61, 85 Gaslight & Shadows
Dukakis, Olympia 55 Filbert Street steps 88 Antiques 120
Dutch Windmill 21 Fillmore Auditorium 39 Gayle’s 129
Dylan, Bob 55 Fillmore Street Jazz gays and lesbians 108
Festival 75 hotels 147
E Financial District 47, 84–5 venues 68–9
Eagle Tavern 68 First Unitarian Universalist Geary Boulevard 100
earthquakes Church 44 Gene Hiller 128
Earthquake! (California Fish Alley 13 geysers 33, 34
Academy of Sciences) 23 Fisherman’s and Seaman’s Ghirardelli Chocolate 96
1906 earthquake 37 Memorial Chapel 13 Ghirardelli Square 12, 51
Loma Prieta earthquake Fisherman’s Wharf 6, Ghirardelli Square
(1989) 37, 94 12–13, 38, 93 Chocolate Festival 75
Oakland Museum 126 Fisherman’s Wharf Hostel Giannini, A.P. 8, 39
what to do in an 148 Giant Tree Fern Grove 20
earthquake 139 flea markets 140 Giles, John 17
Eastwood, Clint 16, 79 fly-drive packages 136 Ginsberg, Allen 37, 52,
eccentric characters 54–5 Folk Art International 47 83
Ed Hardy San Francisco 110 Folsom Street Fair 75 Glenn, John 25
Edinburgh Castle Pub 66 food 141 Glide Memorial United
Edward II Inn and Pub 146 cafés 64–5 Methodist Church 44
Edward II Inn and Suites Sunday brunch venues Global Exchange 128
149 65 Gold Rush 19, 36, 37,
Einstein, Albert 25 see also restaurants 126
152
Golden Gate Bridge 6, Herschel-Spillman Inn 1890 145
8–9, 37, 93, 95, 117 Carousel 20 Inn on Castro 147
Golden Gate Fields 73 Hess, Eva 27 Inn San Francisco 147
Golden Gate Fortune Hess Collection 33 insurance 132, 139
Cookies Company 18 Higher Ground Coffee Inter-Continental Mark
Golden Gate National House 113 Hopkins 142
Index
Parkstore 96 Highway 9 61 Internet 132, 138
Golden Gate Park 7, hiking 72 Intersection for the Arts 43
20–23, 47, 48, 99, 101 hills, hair-raising 61 Invasion of the Body
Golden Gate Park Hippie Hill 20 Snatchers 53
Playground 59 Hippie tour of Haight- The Invented City 149
Golden Gate Theater 56 Ashbury 101 The Irish Bank 90
Golden State Warriors 73 historic sites 38–9 Isa 97
golf 73 history 36–7 It’s Tops Coffee Shop 65
Gough Hill 61 Hitchcock, Alfred 9, 53
Grace Cathedral 7, 24–5, Hockney, David 126 J
44, 47, 83 Holographic Museum 41 Jackson Court 146
Grand Café 90 Home 113 Jackson Square 38, 84
Grandeho’s Kamekyo 97 Home Exchange Inc 149 Japanese Tea Garden 21
Grant Avenue 51 Hooker, John Lee 101 Japantown 99
The Great Highway 60 Hoover, J. Edgar 16 Java Beach Café 121
Greens 62, 97 Hopkins, Mark 39 Jeanine Payer 89
Greenwood 128 Hopper, Edward 144 Jeremy’s 110
Greyhound buses 133 horse-racing 73 John McLaren
Grosvenor Suites 149 hospitals 139 Rhododendron Dell 20
The Grove 105 hostels 136, 148 Johnson, Clyde 17
guesthouses 145 hot springs 33, 34 Jones, Grace 9
Gump’s 50 Hotaling Café 91 Jones, Jim 55
Hotel Del Sol 146 Joplin, Janis 37, 55, 100, 101
H Hotel Drisco 142
Haas-Lilienthal House 46–7 Hotel Nikko 143 K
Haight-Ashbury 39, 100 Hotel Sausalito 142 Kabuto Sushi 121
Hippie tour of 101 hotels 141, 142–8 Kahlo, Frida 27
Haight-Ashbury Free Clinic B&Bs and guesthouses Karpis, Alvin “Creepy” 16
139 145 Kate’s Kitchen 65
Haight Street 51 boutique hotels 144 Kelly, George “Machine
Haight Street Fair 75 budget travel 136, 148 Gun” 16
Half Moon Bay 77 gay and lesbian hotels Kelly’s Mission Rock 65
Hall, William Hammond 21 147 The Kenwood Inn and Spa
Hallidie, Andrew 11 hilltop hotels 142 35
Hallowe’en 75 neighborhood hotels 146 Kerouac, Jack 52, 83
Hamilton, Floyd 17 tipping 135 Kesey, Ken 55, 101
Hammett, Dashiell 52 traditional hotels 143 King, Martin Luther, Jr. 28
Harbin Hot Springs 35 Hubbard, Marvin 17 Kiss Seafood 105
The Harcourt 149 Hunter, Fred 17 Klee, Paul 27
Haring, Keith 25 Huntington 142 Kline, Franz 27
Harry Denton’s Starlight Hyatt Regency 143 Klussman, Mrs Friedell 10
Room 70 “kneeling” buses 137
Harvey’s 68–9 I The Knockout 112
Hayes Valley 51, 100 ice hockey 73 Kokkari Estiatorio 62
health 139 ID, age restrictions 135 Kong Chow Temple 45
health insurance 132, 139 in-line skating 72 Koons, Jeff 27
Health Spa Napa Valley 35 Independence Day 75 Kyle, Arnold 17
Hearst, Patty 55 Independent Living
helplines 139 Resource Center 137 L
Hemingway, Ernest 52 Indian Springs 34 La Honda 127
Hendrix, Jimi 37, 100, 101 Infineon Raceway 73 La Honda Road 61
Herbst Theater 56–7 The Inn Above Tide 144 La Tour, Georges de 40
153
Lafayette Park 49 Marina Motel 146 Muir Beach 76
Lam, Wilfredo 27 Market Street 51 Muir Woods 78
Land’s End 77, 115 Martin, William 17 Muni 134, 136
two-hour hike around 117 Martin Luther King, Jr. Muni Accessible Services
Lark Creek Inn 63, 129 Memorial 28 137
Las Camelias 129 Martuni’s 69 Musée Mechanique 41
Index
laundromats 136 Masa’s Restaurant 63 museums and galleries

Laurel Inn 142 Masonic Auditorium 56 40–41
left luggage 133 Mathews, Arthur and Asian Art Museum 40–
Lefty O’Doul’s 67 Lucia Kleinhaus 126 41
Legion of Honor 40, 115 Matisse, Henri 27 Bay Area Discovery
Leonardo da Vinci 45 Maupin, Armistead 53, Museum 59
LeWitt, Sol 26 55 Cable Car Museum 41
Lexington Club 69 The Maxwell 144 California Academy of
lighthouse, Alcatraz 14 Maybeck, Bernard 46 Sciences 40
Limerick, James 17 Meadowlark Inn 147 California Historical
limousines 133 Mecca 66 Society Museum 29
Lincoln Park 115, 117 media 132 Cartoon Art Museum
The Lion Pub 68 Medjool 66 43
Loma Prieta earthquake Merced, Lake 117 Center for the Arts
(1989) 37, 94 Metreon 29, 51, 59 Gallery 28
Lombard Street 61 The Midnight Sun 68 Chinese Historical
London, Jack 52 Milk, Harvey 37, 39, Society of America
Los Gatos 79, 127 68 Museum and Learning
lost property 133 Milk Bar 71 Center 19
Louis’ 121 Mill Valley 124 de Young Museum 20, 40
Louise M. Davies Mill Valley Inn 144 Exploratorium 58
Symphony Hall 56 mineral water 67 Fraenkel Gallery 42
The Love of Ganesh 45 Miró, Joan 27 Galería de la Raza 43
Lucas, Jimmy 17 Miss Millie’s 65 Holographic Museum
Lucky 13 (bar) 112 Mission District 51, 108 41
Mission Dolores 7, 30–31, Intersection for the Arts
M 38, 44, 107 43
McCain, Rufus 17 Moby Dick 68 Legion of Honor 40, 115
McClaren, John 115 Monaco 144 Magnes Museum 29
Macdonald, Jeannette 53 Mondavi, Robert 33 Mezzanine 112
McLaren, John 20, 21 Mondrian, Piet 27 Musée Mechanique 41
Macy’s 50 Monet, Claude 40 Museo ItaloAmericano
Madrigal, Mrs 55 money 138 42
Magic Theater 57 Monroe, Marilyn 85 Museum of Craft and
Magritte, René 27 The Monroe Hotel 149 Folk Art 42
Make-Out Room 111 Monterey 78 Natural History Museum
malls 140 Moore, Henry 56 22
The Maltese Falcon 53 Morris, Frank 17 Oakland Museum of CA
Mama’s on Washington Morrison Planetarium 23 126
Square 65 Morrow, Gertrude 8 Pacific Heritage
The Mandarin 97 Morrow, Irving F. 8 Museum 42
Mandarin Oriental 143 Moscone, Mayor George San Francisco Arts
Manivah Thai 113 37, 39 Commission Gallery
Manson, Charles 55 Moscone Center 28 43
maps 132 motorbikes 134 San Francisco Maritime
Marin County Headlands Mount Tamalpais 60, 124 Museum 12
123 Mount View Hotel & Spa San Francisco Museum
Marin Headlands Hostel 34 of Craft and Design
148 movies 9, 53 41
Marin Vista Point 9 Mrs Doubtfire 53 San Francisco Museum
Marina District 94 muggings 135 of Modern Art 7, 26–9,
Marina Inn 148 Muir, John 39, 78 40, 46, 107
154
museums and galleries Oceanfront (cont.) parks and gardens (cont.)
(cont.) restaurants 121 The Presidio 48
Seymour Pioneer shopping 120 Sutro Heights Park 115
Museum 41 two-hour hike around Twin Peaks 107
SoMarts Gallery 43 Land’s End 117 Walton Park 49
Tattoo Art Museum 42 O’Keeffe, Georgia 27, 49 Yerba Buena Gardens
Index
Wells Fargo History Old Chinese Telephone 28–9, 49
Museum 41 Exchange 19 Parkside 129
Music Concourse 21 “Old Faithful” Geyser 33 passports 132
Old La Honda Road 61 Paul & Shark 128
N Old Stuff 120 The Pelican Inn 145
Napa Valley 32–5 111 Minna Gallery 111 People’s Café 101, 105
Napa Valley Wine Train 32 One of a Kind 96 performing arts venues 56–7
Native Americans 36, 37 One Market 91 Perry’s 105
Indian Springs 34 Ono, Yoko 27 Pescadero 127
occupation of Alcatraz 17 Open Secret 45 Pescadero Beach 77
Natural History Museum 22 Operetta 96 Phoenix Hotel 146
Neiman Marcus 50 Orpheum 57 phones 136, 138
New India Bazaar 89 Otsu 110 Piazza d’Angelo 129
newspapers 132 outdoor activities 72–3 Picasso, Pablo 27, 52
Newton, Huey 55 picnics 136
N.F.L. Shop 96 P Pier 23 (café) 90
nightclubs Pacific Heights 99 Pier 39 12, 93
Southern Pacific Heights Inn 146 Pink 70
Neighborhoods 111 Pacific Heritage Museum 42 Piranesi, Giovanni 46
nightlife 70–71 Paik, Nam June 27 Pizzetta 211 121
Nob Hill 25, 38, 61, 83 Palace 143 Planetarium, Morrison 23
Nob Hill Place 149 Palace of Fine Arts 46, 94 Point Reyes 79, 127
Noe Valley 61, 108 Palau, Father Francisco 31 Pol Street 85
Nordstrom 50 Palo Alto 125 Polanco 104
North Beach 38, 83, 88 Pampanito, USS 13 police 139
walk around 85 The Pan Pacific 143 Pollock, Jackson 27
North Beach Festival 75 Panama Hotel 145 Pony Express 36, 41
The North Face 89 Panama-Pacific Exposition Portola, Gaspar de 31
North Shoreline 92–7 (1915) 37 Portsmouth Square 18
map 92 Pancho Villa Taqueria 113 post offices 138
restaurants 97 panhandlers 135 Potrero Hill 61, 109
shopping 96 Papa Toby’s Revolution The Presidio 48, 95
Norton, Joshua Abraham 54 Café and Artbar 65 Presidio Heights 100
Nova Bar 66 parades 74–5 Pride Celebration Parade 74
Novak, Kim 9 Park, David 27 private homes, staying in
Park Hyatt 143 149
O Parker, Darl 17 Psychic Eye Book Shop 45
Oakes, Richard 17 The Parker House 147 public art sites 47
Oakland 123 parking 135, 137 Punchline 71
Oakland Athletics 73 parks and gardens 48–9
Oakland Hills 60 Alamo Square 48 Q
Oakland International Alta Plaza 48 Q Restaurant 121
Airport 133 Buena Vista Park 48, 101 Queen Anne 142
Oakland Museum of CA Embarcadero Park 49 Queen Wilhelmina Tulip
126 Fort Mason 48 Garden 21
Oakland Raiders 73 Golden Gate Park 7,
Oakwood Geary Courtyard 20–23, 47, 48, 99, 101 R
149 Lafayette Park 49 rail travel 133
Ocean Beach 77, 115 Land’s End 115 ramped curbs 137
Oceanfront 114–21 Lincoln Park 115, 117 Randall Museum 59
map 114 Mission Dolores Park 31 Range 113
parks 115 Oceanfront parks 115 Rawhide II 112
155
Ray, Man 27 St. Patrick’s Cathedral 45 shopping (cont.)
Red Rock Beach 76 St. Patrick’s Day Parade 74 Downtown 89
The Red Victorian 145 Saints Peter and Paul North Shoreline 96
Refregier, Anton 47 Church 45, 85, 88 Oceanfront 120
refunds 140 Saks Fifth Avenue 50 Southern
Rembrandt 40 sales tax 140, 141 Neighborhoods 110
Index
Renaissance Pleasure San Francisco (film) 53 Shreve & Co 89

Faire 75 San Francisco Art Institute Shrine of St. Francis of
Renaissance Stanford 47 Assisi 45
Court 142 San Francisco Arts shuttle services 133
Renoir Hotel 147 Commission Gallery 43 sidewalk sales 140
reservations San Francisco Ballet 56 Sigmund Stern Grove 116
hotels 141 San Francisco 49ers 73 Sir Francis Drake (hotel) 143
restaurants 141 San Francisco Giants 73 skateboarding 72
restaurants 62–3, 141 San Francisco Skechers 110
Bay Area 129 International Airport 133 Skyline Drive 61
budget travel 136 San Francisco Maritime Slanted Door 91
Central Neighborhoods Museum 12 Slick, Grace 55
105 San Francisco Museum of Sloat, Commodore John 36
Downtown 91 Craft and Design 41 smoking 135
North Shoreline 97 San Francisco Museum of Sno-Drift 71
Oceanfront 121 Modern Art 7, 26–9, 40, Sobell, Morton 16
Southern 46, 107 SoMarts Cultural Center 43
Neighborhoods 113 San Francisco Zoo 58, 116 Sonoma 32
tipping 135, 141 San Gregorio Beach 77, 127 Sonoma Coast Villa 35
Retreat Resort 35 San Jose 127, 133 Sonoma Valley 32–5
Rex 144 San Jose Sharks 73 South of Market 29, 108
Richmond District 101 San Rafael 127 South Park Café 64
Rincon Center 47 San Remo 148 Southern Neighborhoods
Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! 13 Sanford, Sally 54 106–13
Ritz-Carlton 142 Santa Cruz 79, 127 bars and clubs 112
Ritz-Carlton Hotel Dining Saratoga 79, 127 map 106
Room 62 Sattui, V. 33 nightclubs 111
Ritz-Carlton Resort 143 Sausalito 123 restaurants 113
Rivera, Diego 27, 47 Savio, Mario 55 shopping 110
Rodin, Auguste 40 scandals 37 walk around Castro
romantic dinner spots 63 scenic drives 60–61 District 109
Rooftop Children’s Center Scoma’s 97 Sparky’s Diner 113
and Carousel 28 Scott, John Paul 17 spas, Wine Country 34–5
Rothschild, Baron Philippe Sea Cliff 116–17 speed limits 135
de 33 Seal Rock Inn 146 sports 72–3
Royal Exchange 90 Seal Rocks 116, 117 SPQR 105
Rubens, Peter Paul 40 Sears Fine Food 65, 91 Spreckels, Alma Bretteville
Ruby Skye 67 security 139 115
running 72 Serge Sorokko Gallery Stanford, Leland 39
Russian Hill 61, 83 89 Stanford Shopping Center
Russian Treasure 96 Serra, Father Junipero 7, 128
30, 31, 36, 39 Stanford University 78,
S sex, unsafe 135 124, 125
Sacramento Hill 61 Seymour Pioneer Stanley, Owsley 55
Sacramento Monarchs 73 Museum 41 Stanyan Park Hotel 146
sailing 73 Shady Lane 128 Starck, Philippe 144
St. John Coltrane’s African Shakespeare Garden 21 Steele, Danielle 53, 99
Orthodox Church 44 Shockley, Sam 17 Stegner, Wallace 53
St. Mark’s Lutheran shopping 50–51, 140 Stein, Gertrude 52, 123
Church 44 Bay Area 128 Steinbeck, John 78
St. Mary’s Cathedral 47 Central Neighborhoods Steinhart Aquarium 22, 58
St. Mary’s Square 19 104 Sterling Vineyard 33
156
Stern Grove Festival 75 Torres-Garcia, Joaquín War Memorial Opera
Still, Clyfford 27 27 House 38, 56
Stinson Beach 76, 124 Tosca 90 Warhol, Andy 27
Stockton St Chinese tourist offices 132 Washington Square 85, 88
Markets 19 trains 133 water, mineral 67
Stone, Sharon 53 Transamerica Pyramid 46 Wathernam, Frank 16
Index
Stonestown Galleria 120 travel 133–4 Wax Museum 13
Stow Lake 20 budget travel 136 weather 132, 135
Strauss, Joseph 8, 9 travelers’ checks 138 Wells Fargo 36
Strawberry Hill 21 Treasure Island 93 Wells Fargo History
streetcars 134 Tribal, Folk & Textile Arts Museum 41
Stroud, R. “Birdman” 16 Show 75 Western Addition 101
Strybing Arboretum and Triton 144 Westfield Shopping
Botanical Gardens 21 Troika 120 Center 51
The Stud Bar 111 Tuscan Inn 146 Westin St. Francis 143
“Summer of Love” 37, 100 21st Amendment 112 Weston, Edward 126
Sun Yat-sen 19 Twin Peaks 60, 61, 68, 107, What the Traveller Saw 128
Sunday brunch venues 65 109 Wheatman, John &
Sunset District 117 Twin Peaks Hotel 146 Associates 104
Suppenkuche 105 24 Henry Guesthouse Whitaker, Lyman 128
Supperclub 71 147 White, Dan 37, 39
Sutro, Adolph 39, 115, 116 2000 Union Street 105 White Swan Inn 145
Sutro Baths 39, 116, 117 Wilkes Bashford 89
Sutro Heights Park 115 U Williams, Robin 53,
Sutter, John 36 Union Square 51, 84 116
Sweet Dreams 128 Union Street 51, 99 Williams-Sonoma 120
swimming 72 The Union Street Inn 145 Willows Inn, The 147
United Nations 38 Winchester, Sarah 127
T Universities 124 Winchester Mystery
Tan, Amy 53 University of California at House 127
Tate, Sharon 55 Berkeley 124, 125 wine 67, 141
tax, sales 140, 141 Upper Fillmore Street 51 Wine Country 7, 32–5, 78
taxis 133, 134 Upper Grant 85, 88 spas 34–5
tipping 135 US Restaurant 85, 91 Wingard 89
Taylor, Ann 120 Women’s Building 47
tea 67 V Woodside 127
Telegraph Hill 85, 88 Vedanta Temple 45 Worldware 104
telephones 136, 138 Vertigo 53 Wright, Frank Lloyd 47
Temple Sherith Israel 45 Vesuvio 66 writers 52–3
Ten 15 Folsom 70, 111 Victorian Conservatory of
tennis 72 Flowers 20 X, Y, Z
Tet Festival 75 views, North Beach 88 Yerba Buena Center
theatres 56–7 vineyards 32–5 108
Theibaud, Wayne 27 Viola, Bill 27 Yerba Buena Center for
Thep Phanom 63 visas 132 the Arts Gallery 28
Thompson, Miran 17 Vivande 105 Yerba Buena Center for
thrift shops 140 voice mail 138 the Arts Theater 28
Tibet Shop 110 Yerba Buena Gardens
Tiburon 125 W 28–9, 49
Tin How Temple 45 W (hotel) 144 Yerba Buena Islands 93
tipping 135, 141 Walker, Alice 53 Young, Henry 17
toilets, public 137 walks Zaragoza, General 74
Toklas, Alice B. 52 Berkeley 125 Zen City Center 45, 148
Tommy Toy’s Haute Castro District 109 Zeum 28, 58
Cuisine Chinoise 91 North Beach 85 zoos
Ton Kiang 121 two-hour hike around Randall Museum 59
Tonga Room & Hurricane Land’s End 117 San Francisco Zoo 58, 116
Bar 71 Walton Park 49 Zuni 65
157
Acknowledgments
Main Contributors Maps DK India: Managing Editor
Native San Franciscan Jeffrey Aruna Ghose; Senior Cartographer
Kennedy now lives mainly in Italy Uma Bhattacharya; Cartographic
and Spain. A graduate of Stanford
Acknowledgments
Researcher Suresh Kumar.

University, he spends his time
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159
Selected Street Index
1st Street P6 Ellis Street Q3 McDowell Avenue D2
2nd Street P5 Embarcadero L6 Merchant Road C1
3rd Street Q5 Evans Avenue H6 Middle Drive East D4
4th Street Q4 Evelyn Way D6 Midway Street K4
5th Street Q4 Fell Street R1 Minna Street Q4
Street Index
6th Street R4 Filbert Steps L5 Mission Street P5

7th Avenue D5 Filbert Street L3 Montgomery Street N5
7th Street R3 Fillmore Street E1 Natoma Street R3
8th Avenue D3 Fish Alley J2 New Montgomery Street P5
8th Street R2 Florida Street G4 Noe Street F4
9th Street R2 Folsom Street Q5 Noriega Street C5
10th Street G4 Francisco Street K3 North Point Street K2
11th Street G4 Franklin Street Q1 Oak Street E4
14th Avenue C6 Frederick Street D4 O’Farrell Street P3
16th Street G4 Fremont Street P6 Olympia Way D6
17th Street E5 Front Street N6 O’Shaughnessy Boulevard E6
18th Street F5 Fulton Street D4 Pacheco Street D6
19th Avenue C5 Funston Avenue C5 Pacific Avenue M4
20th Street F5 Geary Boulevard B3 Panorama Drive D6
23rd Avenue C4 Geary Street P3 Parnassus Avenue D5
23rd Street F5 Golden Gate Avenue Q3 Pennsylvania Avenue H5
24th Street F6 Gough Street F3 Pine Street N6
25th Avenue C4 Grant Avenue P4 Polk Street Q1
28th Avenue B5 Great Highway A5 Portola Drive D6
30th Street F6 Green Street L5 Portsmouth Square N4
32nd Avenue B3 Greenwich Street L3 Post Street P3
34th Avenue B4 Grove Street R1 Potrero Avenue G5
42nd Avenue B6 Guerrero Street F5 Powell Street N4
43rd Avenue A4 Guy Place Q6 Presidio Avenue E2
Arguello Boulevard D2 Haight Street E4 Presidio Boulevard E2
Army Street F6 Harrison Street Q6 Quintara Street B6
Balboa Street B4 Hawthorne Street Q5 Ritch Street R6
Battery Street M5 Hayes Street R1 Roosevelt Way E4
Bay Street K3 Hotaling Place M5 Sacramento Street N5
Bayshore Boulevard G6 Howard Street Q5 St Mary’s Square N4
Beach Street K2 Hyde Street P2 San Jose Avenue F6
Beale Street P6 Indiana Street H5 Sanchez Street F4
Brannan Street R6 Irving Street C5 Sansome Street M5
Broadway M5 Jackson Street M6 Sea Cliff Avenue B3
Bryant Street R6 Jefferson Street J2 South Van Ness Avenue F4
Buchanan Street F2 JF Kennedy Drive B4 Stanyan Street D3
Bush Street N3 Jones Street P3 Steiner Street E3
California Street N5 Judah Street C5 Steuart Street H3
Castro Street E4 Justin Herman Plaza N6 Stillman Street R6
Chestnut Street K4 Kearny Street N5 Stockton Street P4
Child Street L4 Kensington Way D6 Sunset Boulevard B5
Church Street F5 Kezar Drive D4 Sutter Street P3
Civic Center Plaza R2 King Street H4 Taylor Street P3
Clarendon Avenue D5 Kirkham Street C5 Tehama Street P6
Clay Street N5 Laguna Honda Boulevard D5 Teresita Boulevard E6
Clayton Street E4 Laguna Street F1 Turk Street Q3
Clement Street C3 Lake Street C3 Twin Peaks Boulevard E5
Clipper Street E6 Larkin Street P2 Union Square P4
Columbus Avenue M4 Leavenworth Street P2 Union Street L5
Commercial Street N5 Lincoln Boulevard C2 Valencia Street F5
Cross Over Drive C4 Lincoln Way D4 Vallejo Street M5
Davis Street N6 Lombard Street L4 Van Ness Avenue P1
Dewey Boulevard D6 Maiden Lane P4 Vandewater Street K3
Divisadero Street E3 Marina Boulevard E1 Vermont Street G5
Division Street G4 Mariposa Street G5 Washington Square L4
Dolores Street F5 Market Street P5 Washington Street M5
Douglas Street E5 Martin Luther King Jr Drive D4 Waverly Place N4
Drumm Street N6 Mason Street N3 Webster Street F3
Eddy Street Q3 Masonic Avenue E4 Winthrop Street K5
El Camino del Mar B3 McAllister Street Q2 Woodside Avenue D6
160

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

10 Liveliest bars & clubs

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Stores & Around Town

Eccentric & The North Shoreline 92

SAN FRANCISCO’S TOP 10

San Francisco’s little / , 1 & 2 / 1 : $ <

troopers have endured

technological progress, and

6 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com

San Francisco’s Top 10

+LOO %HDFK

3UHVLGLR 1MB[B 67

1BSL San Francisco

8 The orange color was actually the original rust-proof undercoat,

San Francisco’s Top 10

Joseph Strauss intro-

Pedestrians may access the east sidewalk 5am–9pm 9

scrapped in 1947, when a “progressive” mayor announced it was time for

San Francisco’s Top 10

cables are 1.25 inches (3

Cable Cars and

The cables, which cost at least $20,000 each, must be replaced 11

San Francisco’s Top 10

The Port of San

Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 13

The weather is often ! Lighthouse

14 You cannot visit Alcatraz independently – booking a guided tour

San Francisco’s Top 10

Stories from The Rock

$ George “Machine & Anglin Brothers

San Francisco’s Top 10

Teepee set up on Alcatraz during the Native American occupation

atmosphere recalls a typical southern Chinese town, although the architec-

18 The finest Chinese antiques shops are found at the Chinatown

San Francisco’s Top 10

The Chinese Culture

The Chinese Culture Center sponsors a lively series of lectures 19

20 For more parks and gardens See pp48–9

67$ 1<$ 167

Map of Golden Gate Park

San Francisco’s Top 10

The Garden of Fragrance in the Strybing Arboretum is 21

California Academy of Sciences

@ Discovery Tidepool $ The Water Planet

22 The Academy has a sustainable facility in Golden Gate Park.

San Francisco’s Top 10

Penguin Feeding Time

Kids love the Naturalist Center, where there are multimedia 23

completed until 1964. It is constructed of steel and concrete, despite its

San Francisco’s Top 10

& Keith Haring’s

20th-Century ( Marble Labyrinth

Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 25

San Francisco’s Top 10

* Electronic & Digital Art

Yerba Buena Gardens’ Features

2–7pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm Sun • Free ZBSET NFUFST