# The information contained in this care sheet reflect the opinions and methods of the breeder,

based on their expertise and long-established experience.

Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius)

Leopard geckos are one of the most popular reptile pets. They are possibly the first domesticated

lizard species. Their small size, robustness, and relatively easy care makes them a good “beginner”
reptile pet. Many morphs—color or pattern variations, and occasionally size variations—have been
bred.

Unlike most geckos, leopard geckos possess movable eyelids. These geckos are solitary, and do not
usually live with other animals.

 Scientific name : Eublepharis macularius

 Distribution : Afghanistan, Pakistan, Northwest India, East Iran
 Average Size : 0.2 m (0.65 ft)
 Life Span : 15 years or more
 Difficulty : Beginner

Housing

A single leopard gecko will do fine in a 0.5 x 0.3 x 0.3 meters (20 x 11 x 13 inches) tank with screen
lid, but a 0.75 x 0.3 x 0.3 meters (30 x 13 x 13 inches) is even better. Floor space is more important
than height. Females of the same size may be housed together, but watch for fighting or weight loss
of one gecko. If this occurs, they will need to be separated. Males cannot be housed together or they
will fight until one dies.

Hide box
Make sure there are plenty of hides for each gecko. There should be a moist hide and at least one
dry hide per gecko.

Substrate

Do not use loose substrates in the tanks. Leopard geckos will eat some and can become impacted.
Recommended substrates are reptile carpet, tile, newspaper, or paper towels. We use paper towels
because they are inexpensive and easy to change. It is possible to use a natural set up, but I
recommend paper towel when starting out. Geckos will usually only get impacted when the
husbandry is off. Please remember that natural doesn’t mean all loose sand. They live in an area that
is more hard packed with a little bit of loose sand. Excavator clay is probably the closest thing you
will find. But I do only recommend this for people who have been keeping long enough to know that
their husbandry is good and the animals are healthy. Paper towel makes it easy to clean and see if
your animal is having normal stools.

Lighting – Heating

They are nocturnal, so no lighting is needed other than normal daylight through the windows. Do not
place the tank directly in sunlight. Use an undertank heater (uth) on one side of the tank. Temps on
the warm side should be 32-34 °C (90-94 °F) and the cool side should be 24 °C (75 °F). Measure the
temps on the floor. Leopard geckos use belly heat to digest their food. If you need additional heat, a
ceramic heat bulb works well. A temp gun is the best way to measure floor temps.

Water

Fresh water should be given in a bowl everyday.

Humidity
Leopard Geckos have very specific humidity requirements to encourage proper shedding cycles and
prevent dehydration. The ideal humidity level should be 40% or lower, and you should monitor it
using a hygrometer.

Feeding

Leopard geckos are insectivores. They mainly eat a staple diet of mealworms, crickets, roaches,
superworms, and silkworms. Wax worms are high in fat and should only be fed as a treat. Do not
feed anything larger than 3/4 the size of the gecko’s head (width not length). Insects should be fed
12-24 hours before they are given to the geckos. This is called gut loading. Our mealworms are kept
in a gutload from Cody at Pro Geckos and are given carrots for moisture. Our roaches are fed MS2
roach chow, carrots, and greens. You can also use oatmeal, apples, and potatoes. Feeder insects
should be dusted with calcium powder with D3 every day and a multi-vitamin once a week. We add
extra calcium to the mealworm bowl for the geckos to lick. Fresh water should be given in a bowl
every day. If your gecko will drink water drops, you do not need to use a bowl and can just spray
daily. Many people have been afraid of overdosing D3 with leopard geckos, but I do not know of any
confirmed cases of this.

Handling

Your new gecko will be stressed out when you receive him. Please give him a few days to a week to
settle before you handle him much. Leos may not eat for the first week or so. When you do start
handling, put your hand low in the tank, palm side up. Let the leo come to you. It will probably lick
your hand. Over time, he will start to climb on your hand. Never grab a leopard gecko by the tail or it
will most likely drop it. Their tails do grow back, but they do not look the same.

Cleaning

I spot clean regularly and then use chlorhexidine and F10 vet cleaner a couple times a month. Once
or twice a year I will sterilize with ammonia and steam cleaning of the tubs, too.

Shedding
Leopard geckos will shed all of their skin often. They will usually eat all of their shed skin. Make sure
you check your leo for any stuck shed, especially the eyes and feet. If stuck shed is not removed, it
can lead to infection and lost toes. If stuck shed is often a problem, increase the humidity of the
tank. To loosen stuck shed, fill a container with 1-2 inches of warm water and soak the geckos feet.
Use a cotton swab to gently loosen the skin.

Potential Health Problems

Leopard geckos are generally pretty healthy, but there are some issues that are more common. Like
all reptiles, they can get parasites. Small amounts are usually normal, but problems occur when the
numbers increase. These can cause loss of appetite, runny and smelly stools, and weight loss. A fecal
can be run by a vet and medicine prescribed. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) can happen when an
animal isn’t supplimented correctly. You’ll usually see some bends/rubberly limbs and jaw
deformities. Using calcium with vitamin D prevents this. Females can sometimes become egg bound
and males can have hemipenile prolapses. Issues can also occur when husbandry is incorrect. They
can get impacted from loose substrates or can go off food (or not properly digest food) if the
husbandry is off. The biggest risk for leopard geckos is cryptosporidium. There is no cure for crypto
and it can be passed easily to other geckos. It is always recommended to quarantine new reptiles for
30-90 days to keep an eye on them and reduce the chance of passing anything to the existing
collection. Symptoms for crypto can be similar to other less harmful parasites. Loss of appetite,
regurgitation, loose runny stools, and massive weight loss are the signs to watch for. Some animals
with crypto won’t show symptoms right away which is why many breeders now randomly test their
animals to be safe. Overall, leopard geckos are easy to care for and vet appointments aren’t as
commonly needed, but there are health issues that can happen. Always keep an eye on your animal
and watch for any changes in behavior and weight. If you’re concerned, schedule an appointment
with a good exotics/reptile vet.