CHAPTER 11

GENERATION OF WIND WAVES

Mostly, waves in the seas are caused by the action of the wind. The mechanism of the
original creation of wave motion in the seas by the wind is still subject to study. However,
studies have shown that waves are generated by the tangential (shear) and the normal
(pressure) stresses exerted by the wind over the sea surface. The tangential stress occurs on
the sea surface as the air moves over the stationary sea surface. The effective normal stress
for transferring energy from air to sea is the turbulent fluctuations of the air pressure.
When wind is blowing over a certain sea area, Change in atmospheric pressure on the
surface may cause the first ripples and once the first ripples are formed, the horizontal
wind force may cause respective pressure and suction to the front and the rear of the wave
and thus transmit energy to the water. This action may well be coupled with the effect of
continuously changing atmospheric pressure that causes the wind. As long as the wind and
pressure changes act upon the surface of the sea, the waves once created continue to
growing height and period until a certain limit at which the wave velocity approaches wind
velocity.

11.1 Wind Wave Generation

The actual mechanisms by which wind waves are generated are not completely understood.
A number of different mechanisms have been proposed by researchers to explain the
generation of wind waves. However, no single theory so far proposed is adequate to
explain the phenomenon in full.

The variables which are important in the generation of wind waves are as follows:
(1 ) Wind velocity, U
(2) Fetch length, F
(3) Storm duration,t
(4) Water depth,d
(5) Fetch width,W

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Generally, in the generation of wind waves, fetch width (W) is not considered as an
important parameter. In deep water, water depth (d) is not a variable. Thus in deep water
wave generation, U, F and t are the only variables.
Growth of wind waves depends basically on the wind velocity. Wave heights and periods
tend to increase with increasing wind velocity. Data relating wind speed to the sea state is
provided in Table 11.1.

The sea area over which the wind blows to create waves is called the fetch. The length of
the fetch (F) is an important factor that dictates the characteristics of the generated waves.
For short fetches, the waves propagate out of the generation area before growing in full
size, and thus they have smaller heights and periods as shown in Fig.11.1. As the fetch
length increases waves grow in size. The waves have smaller heights and periods at the
start of the fetch and they increase with distance further away from the start of the fetch.
The waves reach their maximum heights at the end of the fetch.

Fetch Length

Fetch H
Width
H

Figure 11.1 Variation of wave heights along the length of a fetch

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 Table 11.1

For a certain coastal area, fetch length is measured from the map on the sea area over
which the wind blowing from wind directions. Wind directions are given in Fig.11.2.

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 N Poyraz

NW NE Karayel Yıldız

W E Günbatısı Gündoğusu

SW SE Lodos Keşişleme

S Kıble

Figure 11.2 Wind directions

As an example; for a construction site at Marmara Sea, fetch measurements are given on
the map as follows where fetch lengths measured from the map. For instance, the distance
in SW direction is measured by a ruler (cm), then this value is converted to real distance
(km) according to map scale (Fig.11.3).

A
SE

SW
S SE

Map Scale 1/ 10000

Figure 11.3 Fetch length (F) measurements for a site A in Marmara Sea

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Duration of the wind blowing (storm duration, t) is also a major factor controlling the
growth of waves. For the same fetch length and the same wind velocity, the heights and
periods of the generated waves increase with increasing wind duration.

As the wind velocity (U), the fetch length (F) and storm duration (t) increases, the height
and period of the wind generated waves will increase, but within limits, as shown
schematically in Fig(11.4). For a given wind speed and unlimited fetch and duration there
is a fixed limit to which the wave height (Hi) and wave period (Ti) will grow. At this
limiting condition, the rate of energy input from the wind to the waves is balanced by the
rate of energy dissipation due to wave breaking and turbulence. This equilibrium state of
waves is known as a fully arisen sea (FAS) or fully developed sea, Fig.11.4.

Figure 11.4. Growth of wind waves

The minimum fetch length (FFAS in km) which is necessary for the establishment of
equilibrium sea state for a given wind velocity (U in m/s) is given by Eq. (11.1)

3
2
FFAS = 16 U …………………………………………………………………………(11.1)

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Similarly, the minimum duration of wind (tFAS in hr), necessary for the establishment of
equilibrium sea state for a given wind velocity (U in m/s) is given by (11.2)

1
2
t FAS = 11.1 U ………………………………………………………………………(11.1)

If either the actual fetch length or the actual wind duration is smaller than minimum fetch
length and minimum wind duration which are simultaneously necessary for the
establishment of equilibrium sea state for a given wind velocity, then the waves can not
grow up to their maximum possible heights. Such a sea is called a developing sea,
Fig.10.4. Conditions required for the fully arisen and developing seas may be expressed as
follows (Eq.11.2- Eq.11.5)

Factual ≥ FFAS and t actual ≥ t FAS gives (FAS) ………………………………..……....(11.2)

Factual < FFAS and t actual < t FAS gives (DEVOLOPING SEA)………..………..…….(11.3)

Factual < FFAS and t actual ≥ t FAS gives DEVELOPING SEA

………………...…….(11.4)
FETCH LIMITED

Factual ≥ FFAS and t actual < t FAS gives DEVELOPING SEA

……………….…….(11.5)
DURATION LIMITED

The water depth in the fetch affects the heights of generated waves through the effect of
the sea bed (e.g. the process of bottom friction). The waves are usually generated in sea
areas which can be considered as the deep water. Thus, the well-known methods which
have been developed for computing wave characteristics do not consider the effect of
water depth.

The fetch width limits the size of the generated waves only in bays, lakes or other
restricted areas. In the open sea however, the fetch width is usually wide enough not to
affect the generation of waves.

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