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From coffee industry waste materials to skin-friendly products with improved


skin fat levels

Article in European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology · March 2013


DOI: 10.1002/ejlt.201200239

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330 Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2013, 115, 330–336

Research Article
From coffee industry waste materials to skin-friendly
products with improved skin fat levels

Helena Ribeiro1, Joana Marto1, Sara Raposo1, Maria Agapito1, Vera Isaac2, Bruna G. Chiari2,
Pedro F. Lisboa3, Alexandre Paiva3, Susana Barreiros3 and Pedro Simões3

1
Faculty of Pharmacy, Research Institute for Medicines and Pharmaceutical Sciences (iMed.UL),
University of Lisbon, Portugal
2
Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, UNESP – Univ Estadual Paulista, DFM – Laboratório de
Cosmetologia – LaCos, São Paulo, Brazil
3
Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Departamento de Quı́mica, REQUIMTE, Universidade Nova de
Lisboa, Caparica, Portugal

Spent coffee grounds (SCG), which are the residue obtained from the treatment of coffee with hot water or
steam, can be used for industrial applications, due to the high content in lipids. The cosmetic products
might be a suitable application for these types of residues because the barrier properties of the stratum
corneum (SC) are largely dependent on the intactness of the lipid lamellae that surrounds the corneocytes.
The purpose of this work was to assess the feasibility of using the lipid fraction of SCG extracted with
supercritical carbon dioxide in the development of new cosmetic formulations with improved skin lipids
(sebum) and hydration. The use of spent coffee lipid extract in cosmetic industry seems to be a suitable
approach to recycle the wastes from coffee industry. Emulsion containing 10% of the lipid fraction of SCG
(SpentCofOil cream) presented promising characteristics in the improvement of sebum skin levels with a
good acceptance by consumers when compared to an emulsion containing 10% w/w of green coffee oil
(GreenCofOil cream) and a placebo without coffee oil (NoCofOil cream).

Practical applications: In this work, the authors develop and characterize a cream containing 10% of
the lipid fraction of SCG extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide with improved skin lipids (sebum)
and hydration.

Keywords: Green coffee oil / Skin fat levels / Spent coffee lipid / Supercritical fluid extraction / Topical creams

Received: June 29, 2012 / Revised: October 10, 2012 / Accepted: November 28, 2012
DOI: 10.1002/ejlt.201200239

1 Introduction therefrom, can be used for industrial applications such as


to produce high quality biodiesel [2, 3]. Due to their high
In a country like Portugal, where coffee consumption is so content in carbohydrates, lipids, and proteins [4], the cosmetic
deeply rooted in the cultural habits of the population, the total products might be a suitable application for these types of
import of coffee is increasing within time and it reached almost residues.
55 thousand tons in 2009 [1]. Spent coffee grounds (SCG), Brazil is the largest coffee producer in the world [5]. On
which are the residue obtained from the treatment of coffee average, a fifth of the Brazilian coffee production consists of
with hot water or steam for extracting flavor substances defective beans which after roasting process decrease the final
beverage quality [6]. Several studies have been developed in
order to find an alternative use for these defective coffee beans.
Correspondence: Dr. Helena Ribeiro, Faculdade de Farmácia da One of the alternatives being considered is the cosmetic appli-
Universidade de Lisboa, Av. Prof Gama Pinto, 1649-003 Lisboa, Portugal cation of the oil extracted from the defective beans.
E-mail: helena.ribeiro@ff.ul.pt The human stratum corneum (SC) consists of several
Fax: þ351 217937703
layers of keratinized corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix
Abbreviations: GC, gas chromatography; O/W, oil-in-water; SC, stratum of ordered lamellar structure. SC intercellular lipids particu-
corneum; SC-CO2, supercritical carbon dioxide; SCG, Spent coffee lar composition allows a highly ordered arrangement of lipids
grounds; TEWL, transepidermal water loss playing an essential role in keeping an optimal skin barrier

ß 2012 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim www.ejlst.com


Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2013, 115, 330–336 Skin products prepared with coffee industry waste materials 331

and in regulating the skin hydration. Deficiency of ceramides, Minas Gerais), Brazil. The green coffee beans were pressed
cholesterol, essential fatty acids, and triglycerides leads to and come back to be pressed again for a further three times
enhanced transepidermal water transport in addition to dry- and then the oil is bottled with nitrogen.
ness of the skin, i.e., xerosis [7]. The etiology of dry skin is SCG were supplied by NovaDelta – Comércio e Indústria
variable but is often related to skin disorders and changes de Cafés, S.A. (Campo Maior, Portugal).
in lipid composition, particularly ceramides, as they are the
major lipid constituent of lamellar sheets, followed by cho- 2.2 Methods
lesterol, fatty acids, and triglycerides. A correct lipid ratio in
SC is necessary to maintain the lipidic lamellae [8, 9]. 2.2.1 Spent coffee lipid extraction
Ceramides play an important role and with cholesterol, free
fatty acids, and cholesterol sulfate, which are ionized at The SCG were dried in an oven at 378 K for 12 h with air
physiological pH, they form ordered structures. circulation to remove moisture. The residual moisture con-
Traditionally, dry skin treatments were based on rehydra- tent of dried SCG was measured by Karl Fischer titration and
tion of the epidermis, through the use of emollients and/or an had an average value of 1% w/w.
occlusive emulsion. Emollients or moisturizers are often used The lipid fraction of SCG was extracted with supercritical
in the treatment of xerosis with the aim of improving skin carbon dioxide (SC-CO2). Conventional oil extraction from
hydration and sebum levels [8, 10, 11]. food crops and agro-industrial residues involves hazardous
The purpose of this work was to assess the feasibility organic solvents, like n-hexane. SC-CO2 technology allows an
of using the lipid fraction of SCG in the development of environmentally friendly process whereby extraction/separate
cosmetic formulations (oil-in-water (O/W) creams) with recovery of oil and bioactive substances from biomass can be
improved skin hydration and sebum capacity. Their phys- done without degradation [12, 13]. Through manipulation of
icochemical characterization, stability, biological effects, temperature and pressure, the density of SC-CO2 is adjusted to
and sensory acceptability were evaluated and compared allow complete separation of oil and bioactive solutes that the
with formulations containing green coffee oil and no coffee matrix may contain. Recently, it has been demonstrated the
oil. feasibility of SGC oil extraction by SC-CO2 [2].
The spent coffee oil was extracted in a high pressure
2 Materials and methods extraction plant shown schematically in Fig. 1. Gaseous
carbon dioxide (Air Liquide, Lisboa, Portugal) is first
2.1 Materials compressed to the desired extraction pressure by means of
a gas compressor (Burton Corblin, A0C 400, 0963) and then
Tego1Care 450, Abil1 350, Cutina1 GMS, and MultiEx heated to the desired temperature by passing through a tube-
Naturotics1 and propylenoglycol were obtained from Evonik in-tube coil heat exchanger. Supercritical carbon dioxide
Industries AG, Cognis Group and DS, Produtos Quı́micos flows at the desired pressure and temperature conditions
and Sigma (Sigma, St. Louis, MO, USA). upwards through a packed bed of SCG held in a basket
Green coffee oil was supplied by COOXUPÉ – placed previously inside the extraction vessel (316SS; internal
Cooperativa de Cafeicultores de Gauxupé, (in Guaxupé, diameter 6.4 cm; total length 59.6 cm). The extraction

Figure 1. High pressure plant used for spent coffee oil extraction.

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332 H. Ribeiro et al. Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2013, 115, 330–336

pressure is controlled by an electro-pneumatic control valve 2308C for 13 min. Peak identification was carried out
(Von rohr armaturen AG, VEGP700 F59, Muttenz, using known standards (FAME mixture C4–C24, Sigma–
Switzerland) where depressurization of CO2 flow stream exit- Aldrich, Sintra, Portugal). Methyl-heptadecanoate (Nu-
ing the extraction vessel takes place. The extracted oil is sep- Check-Prep, Elysian, USA) was used as the internal
arated from the gas stream in two cyclones (Separex 4140/ standard (IS). The data were processed with the Chrom-
CY01 AS2, Champigneulles, France) connected in series and Card software.
the regenerated CO2 is recycled back to the compressor.
SC-CO2 extractions were performed using 0.5 kg of dry 2.2.2.4 pH determination
SCG per batch at 558C and 250 bar with an average CO2
flowrate of 15 kg/h for ca. 1 h of extraction. The collected oil The pH was measured using a pH meter, Crison, model
was stored in an autoclaved and light protected flask at micropH 2002 (Barcelona, Spain) with a glass electrode
208C in a freezer for subsequent analysis. (Eutech, USA), specially used for food oils.

2.2.2 Coffee oil analyses 2.2.3 Preparation of O/W emulsions containing coffee
lipid extract
2.2.2.1 Free fatty acids
Non-ionic O/W creams containing 10% w/w of coffee lipids
The free fatty acid content of the coffee oils was determined were prepared: SpentCofOil cream with 10% w/w of spent
by titration. One gram of oil was added to 50 mL of solvent coffee lipid extract, GreenCofOil cream with 10% w/w of
mixture (ethanol/diethyl ether 1:1, v/v, Panreac, 99.5%: José green coffee oil and NoCofOil cream without coffee lipids.
M. Vaz Pereira S.A., Lisboa, Portugal) previously neutral- To prepare the creams, the oily (Tego1Care 450, Abil1
ized. Potassium hydroxide 0.1M (PRONOLAB, José M. Vaz 350, Cutina1 GMS, and MultiEx Naturotics1) and aqueous
Pereira S.A., Lisboa, Portugal) in ethanol was added until the phases (purified water and propyleneglycol) were heated sep-
solution turned from yellow to pink. Phenolphthalein was arately until reach 758C, then the oily phase was added to the
used as a pH indicator. aqueous phase and the system was mixed (Helipath1 130 rpm)
with constant agitation until the temperature reached 308C.
2.2.2.2 Unsaponifiable lipids
2.2.4 Physical characterization of the emulsions
Unsaponifiable lipids were determined following the AOCS
Official Method [14]. Their content was expressed as weight Macroscopic organoleptic characteristics were analyzed.
percent. The pH was controlled using a pH meter Metrohm1
pH Meter 744, glass electrode. The apparent viscosity and
2.2.2.3 Fatty acid analysis rheological profile were evaluated using the Brookfield1 RV
DV-II, SSA, spindleSC4-27.
The fatty acid composition of the coffee oils was determined The size distribution was measured by light scattering
by direct transesterification of the lipids to the corresponding using a Malvern Mastersizer 2000 coupled with a Hydro S
methyl esters and then quantitatively analyzed by gas accessory. For a correct turbidity, about 0.5 g of each for-
chromatography (GC), according with the method of mulation, corresponding to an obscuration between 25 and
Lepage and Roy [15] with modifications. Ten micrograms 28%, was added in the sample chamber containing 150 mL
of oil extract was transmethylated with 2 mL of methanol: of water and analyzed using a stirrer of 700 rpm.
acetyl chloride (95:5 v/v). The mixture was sealed in a
Teflon-lined vial under nitrogen atmosphere and heated at 2.2.5 Biological effects
808C for 1 h. The vial contents were then cooled, diluted with
1 mL water, and extracted with 2 mL of n-hexane. The The epidermal capacitance, transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
organic layer was dried over Na2SO4. and skin surface lipids of the SC for all creams were evaluated
Methyl esters were quantitatively analyzed by GC in a with a Corneometer CM 820, a Tewameter TM210, and a
Thermo Trace GC ULTRA (Thermo Unicam, Lisboa, Sebometer SM 810 (C þ K Electronics GmbH) on a panel of
Portugal), equipped with a flame ionization detector (FID) uniform volunteers for 28 days. The volunteers had given their
and a split/splitless injector. The injector and detector written and informed consent before the evaluation (n ¼ 10,
temperatures were set at 2808C. The split flow was set at young healthy females – 18–25 y.a., same professional activity)
134 mL/min. The analytical column was a TR-Biodiesel and included in the study after written and informed consent.
(F) from Thermo Unicam (Lisboa, Portugal). 0.5 mL sample The formulations were applied in the forearm and the results
volume was injected by means of an automatic injector were compared with a defined control area (anatomically equiv-
TriPlus. Helium was used as carrier at a constant flow alent) on the same forearm. Measurements were performed
of 2 mL/min. The oven temperature program was under standardized conditions, at room temperature [16, 17].

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Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2013, 115, 330–336 Skin products prepared with coffee industry waste materials 333

2.2.6 Sensorial analysis results published in the literature [6, 18]. Palmitic (C16:0)
and linoleic (C18:2) were the major fatty acids detected in
To evaluate the acceptability of all formulations, a questionnaire both oil samples comprising almost 80% of all fatty acids.
was answered by each volunteer, by the assessment of sensory Spent coffee lipid extract showed a pH of 3 while the green
attributes such as texture, odor, after feel, greasiness, hydration, coffee oil showed a pH of 6.
spreadability, and tackiness using a hedonic scale from 1 to 5. The acidity of the lipidic fraction collected from green
coffee beans or from their consequent residues – SCG – is due
2.2.7 Statistical analysis not only to free fatty acids but also to phenolic acids, non-
volatile aliphatic acids (e.g., malic and quinic acids), and
Data were compared using a two-way ANOVA (95% confi- volatile carboxylic acids (e.g., acetic, propanoic, butanoic
dence level). Results are expressed as mean  SD. Statistical acids, etc.). Coffee origins and species, growth conditions,
significance was considered at a probability level of p < 0.05. processing method, roasting degree, and beverage extraction
type influence the brew acidity, affecting the coffee’s aroma
3 Results and flavor. In our case, two different raw materials were
employed – green coffee beans and SCG – from different
3.1 Spent coffee lipid extraction origins and growth conditions as well as two different extrac-
tion processes – pressing and supercritical CO2 extraction,
Supercritical carbon dioxide extraction of SCG obtained a explaining the different pH of the oils obtained.
yellow to yellow/brown viscous oil extract, mainly collected in
the first cyclone, C1, of the high pressure extraction plant (see 3.3 Physico-chemical characterization of obtained
Fig. 1). The extraction yield of spent coffee oil at 250 bar and creams
508C was 12.1% on a dry weight basis (i.e., % g-oil/100 g-dry
spent coffee). Comparatively, Arya and Rao [4] have reported Concerning the macroscopic properties, both creams
an oil yield of 13.4% from SCG by soxhlet extraction with appeared yellow, glossy, and as semi-mobile emulsions.
n-hexane as the solvent. The results (pH values, apparent viscosity, and particle size)
are shown on Table 3.
3.2 Coffee oils analyses The pH data showed that the incorporation of the
spent coffee oil decreased the pH value to 4.89  0.02
The analyses to the coffee oils used in this work are given in (SpentCofOil cream). The pH of the other creams
Tables 1 and 2. The results are comparable with previous were 6.37  0.01 (NoCofOil cream) and 6.63  0.01 to
GreenCofOil cream. These creams needed an adjustment
in pH with orthophosphoric acid to achieve pH values suit-
Table 1. Free fatty acids and unsaponifiable lipids of spent coffee oil able for skin application (between 4.5 and 5.5). This is due to
and green coffee oil the different pH of the lipids.
Continuous shear experiments measure the ability of each
Spent Green system to resist structural breakdown during the standardized
Compound coffee oil coffee oil
shearing procedure.
Free fatty acids, % w/w 1.6 1.4 Since most fluids are non-Newtonian, nonlinear models
Unsaponifiable matter, % w/w 5.5 11.3 are needed to describe the change in viscosity with shear rate
or shear stress.

Table 2. Fatty acid composition of spent coffee oil and green coffee Table 3. pH, apparent viscosity, and particle size values for the
oil emulsions

Spent Green Apparent viscosity Particle size


Fatty acid, % w/w coffee oil coffee oil pH (Pa s) (mm)

Palmitic acid (16:0) 33.1 37.1 NoCofOil 6.37  0.01 30.1  103  5.25 27.54 mm  1.78
Stearic acid (18:0) 9.1 7.9 cream
Oleic acid (18:1) 12.2 9.2 GreenCofOil 6.63  0.01 40.2  103  4.20 36.98 mm  2.53
Linoleic acid (18:2) 44.7 44.5 cream
Linolenic acid (18:3) 0.8 1.2 SpentCofOil 4.89  0.02 48.2  103  4.56 22.99 mm  1.96
cream
Fatty acids are designated by the number of carbon atoms: number of
double bonds. Mean  SD (n ¼ 3).

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334 H. Ribeiro et al. Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2013, 115, 330–336

350 70.0
Shear Stress (Pa)x 10000

300 60.0

250 50.0

200 40.0

UA
150 30.0
NoCofOil cream
100
20.0
GreenCofOil cream
50
SpentCofOil cream 10.0
0
0.0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70
D0 D7 D14 D28
Shear Rate (1/s)
Control area GreenCofOilcream SpentCofOilcream NoCofOilcream

Figure 2. Rheograms of NoCofOil cream (^), GreenCofOil cream


Figure 4. Values of epidermal capacitance during 28 days.
(x), and SpentCofOil cream (~) at 258C.
(mean W SD, n ¼ 10).

Flow curves are shown in Fig. 2 for all creams. When the it was shown that these creams were nonirritating to the skin,
apparent viscosity decreases with the increase in shear rate, as it was expected due to the selected components. In order to
the fluid is considered pseudoplastic or shear thinning. The avoid the inter-individual variations in the SC hydration
samples also showed a loop of anti-thixotropic or rheopetic. levels, the baseline value (control area) was always registered
The apparent viscosity calculated in the apex of the as an internal control of the experiment.
curve is 48.2  103  4.56, 40.2  103  4.20, and The results obtained showed that SpentCofOil and
30.1  103  5.25 Pa s, respectively. Thus the inclusion GreenCofOil creams were significantly different ( p < 0.01)
of coffee oil contributes to obtain a product with improved from the control area, indicating that there was an effect on
stability. epidermal capacitance, TEWL and on the skin sebometry
Droplet size distribution showed a monomodal after 28 days (Figs. 4–6). The NoCofOil cream showed the
population for NoCofOil cream and SpentCofOilcream lowest epidermal capacitance and sebum and the highest
(Fig. 3). The mean particle size was: 27.54 mm  1.78 to TEWL when compared to the formulations containing coffee
NoCofOil cream, 22.99 mm  1.96 to SpentCofOil cream, oils.
and 36.98 mm  2.53 to GreenCofOil cream.
3.5 Sensorial analysis
3.4 Biological effects
The results obtained from the sensory evaluation (Fig. 7)
The lipid components were chosen taking into consideration done by volunteers showed that both creams met consumer
the lipid composition of SC. Spent coffee lipid extract and appeal and acceptance requirements. However, in future
green coffee oil were added because they are mainly com- work, the odor should be improved as volunteers gave low
posed by triglycerides, essentially made of linoleic acid, pal- scores (50%) to products tested with coffee oils.
mitic acid and oleic acid, and residual antioxidants. These
substances naturally occur in the skin lipid matrix. 8.0
The effect of the formulations on the skin hydration and 7.5
on the maintenance of the intactness of the lipid lamellae was
7.0
studied in ten selected volunteers. After a 28-day application,
6.5
g/h.m2

6.0

5.5

5.0

4.5

4.0
D0 D7 D14 D28
Control area GreenCofOilcream

SpentCofOilcream NoCofOilcream
Figure 3. Droplet size distribution of NoCofOil cream (gray line)
GreenCofOil cream (dotted line), and SpentCofOil cream (black). Figure 5. Values of TEWL during 28 days (mean W SD, n ¼ 10).

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Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2013, 115, 330–336 Skin products prepared with coffee industry waste materials 335

350.0 entities in the fluid referred to as ‘‘flocs’’ tend to disassemble


300.0 or assemble when stress is applied.
Apparent viscosity values provide a comparison of the
250.0
resistance to structural breakdown between the emulsions
µg lipids/cm²

200.0 and the loop areas compare the amount of structure that
150.0
fractures in the standardized cycle. The inclusion of spent
and green coffee oil seems to slightly increase the resistance
100.0 to structural breakdown when compared with placebo
50.0 (NoCofOil cream).
The emulsion maintained the mean particle size after oil
0.0
coffee inclusion indicating that the oil did not destabilize the
D0 D7 D14 D28
Control area GreenCofOilcream SpentCofOilcream NoCofOilcream emulsion structure. Moreover, with the inclusion of the oil
the population becomes thinner, i.e., with a more homo-
Figure 6. Comparison of skin surface lipids between control, geneous population. However the inclusion of green coffee
NoCofOil cream GreenCofOil cream and spentCofOil cream. oil seems to slightly destabilize the original emulsion structure
since we obtained a bi modal population with higher
Texture particle size. As known the emulsion stability is related to
100
SkinFeel on 80 its particle size and distribution. Smaller the particle size,
Odor
applicaon 60 higher the stability. The results obtained show that the
40
SpentCofOil cream present lower values when compared
20
0 to the other formulations, especially with the GreenCofOil
Hydraon Spreadability cream suggesting a better stability.
In general, there is a correlation between SC hydration
SpentCofOil cream
and TEWL values, as lower TEWL (intact epidermal barrier
Tackiness Greasiness function) corresponds to normal hydration state of the horny
NoCofOil cream
GreenCofOil cream skin layer [19].
Estimation of the dynamics in SC hydration is used
Figure 7. Sensorial profiles of NoCofOil cream, GreenCofOil in efficacy claim studies on topically applied potentially
cream, and SpentCofOil cream. hydrating (moisturizing) agents [20, 21]. The increase in
SC hydration is correlated with the improvement of the skin
barrier function (lowering TEWL) [22]. In this study it
The SpentCofOil cream presents the highest score for the was observed that the SpentCofOil and GreenCofOil creams
texture, greasiness, and skin feel on application, with a low increased the epidermal capacitance and lowered the TEWL
score for the odor. suggesting skin hydration.
Being a major component of this superficial layer, sebum
4 Discussion lipids take part in the non-specific protective mechanisms of
the skin barrier. Sebum is produced by the sebaceous glands
The vehicle used to deliver the topical lipids was carefully (with higher density on the forehead, chest, and back) and
selected, not only because it played an important role in the consists predominantly of triglycerides, wax esters, and squa-
product efficacy and stability, but also because topical cream lene [23]. The role of sebum for the epidermal barrier was
formulations must provide easy application on the skin sur- demonstrated in asebia mice (with profound sebaceous gland
face without leaving any oil residue. The rationale behind this hypoplasia) [24]. Despite the unaffected permeability barrier,
study was the physicochemical characterization of creams asebia mice displayed epidermal hyperplasia, inflammation,
containing different lipids and simultaneously assessing their and decreased (>50%) SC hydration, associated with a
biological effects. In addition to the traditional emollients and reduction in sebaceous gland lipids. The barrier abnormal-
occlusive constituents we intended to provide spent coffee oil, ities were attributed to the insufficient glycerol levels, derived
which is the residue obtained from the treatment of coffee. from the triglyceride hydrolysis.
The lipid fraction of SCG was extracted with supercritical Elias and coworkers [25] showed that application of
carbon dioxide, an environmentally friendly solvent that exogenous selected lipid mixtures optimized barrier repair
allows the extraction and recovery of the oil at such con- in murine skin. In our study we used creams containing
ditions that no degradation of the lipid composition of the oil sebum-like lipids (SpentCofOil and GreenCofOil creams).
may occur. When applied in human volunteers they had a restored effect
All the formulations developed within this work were as well as an increase in the sebum levels when compared with
suitable to skin application: acidic pH and pseudoplastic or the cream with no coffee oil (NoCofOil cream) and with the
shear thinning behavior. This behavior occurs because control area as shown on Fig. 6.

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336 H. Ribeiro et al. Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2013, 115, 330–336

Therefore, both creams (SpentCofOil and GreenCofOil [8] Halvarsson, K., Loden, M., Increasing quality of life by
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[9] Coderch, L., De Pera, M., Fonollosa, J., De La Maza, A.,
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[11] Carneiro, R., Salgado, A., Raposo, S., Marto, J. et al.,
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seems to be a suitable approach to recycle the wastes [13] Reverchon, E., De Marco, I., Supercritical fluid extraction
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with supercritical carbon dioxide was developed and charac- [14] Firestone, D., Official Methods and Recommended Practices of
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and hydration qualities. This may suggest that the barrier Boulder, USA 1998.
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classes of lipids in a one-step reaction. J. Lipid Res. 1986,
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Moreover the coffee oil presented promising character-
[16] Rogiers, V., The EEMCO Group, EMMCO guidance for
istics in the improvement of fat skin levels with a good accept- the assessment of the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)
ance by consumers. incosmetic sciences. Skin Pharmacol. Appl. Skin Physiol.
2001, 14, 117–128.
We gratefully acknowledge the support by NovaDelta – Comércio e [17] Berardesca, E., The EEMCO Group, EEMCO guidance for
Indústria de Cafés, S.A. (Campo Maior, Portugal) and the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: Electrical
COOXUPÉ. A. Paiva would like to acknowledge Fundacão para methods. Skin Res. Technol. 1997, 3, 126–132.
a Ciência e a Tecnologia (FCT, Portugal) through the contract [18] Al Kanhal, M. A., Lipid analysis of Coffea Arabica Linns.
SFRH/BPD/44946/2008 and Dr. Inês Casais for the drawing beans and their possible hypercholesterolemic effects. Int. J.
Food Sci. Nutr. 1997, 48, 135–139.
support.
[19] Fluhr, J. W., Kuss, O., Diepgen, T., Lazzerini, S. et al.,
Testing for irritation with a multifactorial approach:
The authors have declared no conflict of interest. Comparison of eight non-invasive measuring techniques on five
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