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T h e c u ine ry H an d b oo k

BY CH ARLE S FE LLOWS
rl

The Mo s t Co m pl e t e an d Se r vi c e ab l e Re fe r e n c e B o o k

t o T hi n g s Cu l i n a r y Ever

m sr E DI T I ON

CO P Y R I G H T 1 90 4 BY CH A R L E S FE LLOW S

Pu b l i s He d by

T H E H OT EL MONT H LY
3 2 5 De ar b or n St r e e t

CH I CAGO
PRE FACE .

T h i s b o o k h as been p repared w i th the ai m of ga thering in to a singl e vol ume the l arges t p r ac t i


cabl e collec ti on o f every d a y recipes sui ted to the catering fra tern i ty i n the E ngl i sh l anguage mak ,

ing i t as n earl y as possibl e the choices t and mos t comple te work of i ts kind .

T h e n ame wh ich i s given i t indica tes th e principl e upon wh ich the book has been made : namely ,

tha t i t m igh t serve as a book of reference ; as a c ompre h ensive exhibi t of the growth and condi ,

tion of the re q ui re men ts of th e travel in g p u blic .

T he work i s n o t a cook book and does n o t pre ten d to teach cook e ry ye t to those tha t h ave a l
, ,

rea d y received the fundamen ta l ideas of c ookery i t will be foun d to be th e bes t th eore tical teache r
,

obtain ab l e as i t clearl y shows wha t the combi n ation s of th e d i shes are a n d wh a t they l oo k l i k e and
, ,

h o w they shoul d be served .

Necessaril y li mi ted i n ex ten t i t ye t con tain s m ore p rac t ical ma t ter than an y si milar publica
,

ti on p resen ting over four thousan d se l ec tion s


, . I t is bel ieved tha t o f th e culinary wri ters f o r the
c aterin g p rofession acknow l edged by th e i n tell igen t and cul t iva te d to be g rea t n on e whe the r
, ,

Foreign c r A merican h ave he re tofore wri t ten the d ishes in plai n Engl i sh wi thou t th e foreign a f f e c
“ "
t a t i o n of A L A an a fie c ta ti o n when appearin g on the B ill of Fare causin g th e gues t to expec t
,

much a n d di sappoin ting h i m by receiving l i t t l e


, .

T he d usty road traveled so much by o th er wri ters i n making their book s con tain fi ve t i mes as
man y pages as are n ecessary h as been avoided and we h ope tha t on e of the speci al meri ts o f thi s
,

volu me i s i ts b revi ty
.

Wi th these brief e x p l a n a t i o n s T h e C ulin ary Ha ndboo k i s pl ace d before t he ca tering fratern i ty .

wi th the h 0 pe tha t i t wil l be dee m


, .

ed worthy of i ts ti tl e
.

T H E A U T H OR .
T H E CULI N ARY H AN DB OOK .

AB S IN T H E —A l i q ueu r made principall y f r o m AL M O N D S T he bes t for cul i n ar y p u r p oses i s -

wormwoo d an ise angelica corian d er see d s and


, ,
the I ord an ; i t i s abou t an inch l ong fla t wi th a
, ,

alcohol some ti mes a d ul terated wi th aroma tic


,
clear b rown skin swee t and ra ther tough In ,
.

resin s an d d angerou s colorings ; i ts uses are making al mon d soup seven eigh th s swee t and -

ch iefly as a drink d i l u ted wi th water and in on e eigh th bi t ter al mond s should be use d
,
-
.

making man y o f the American mi xed drin k s SALTE D ALM OND S —M ade by b l anching skin .
,

A CE T I C A C ID —T h e founda tion of al l V in egars ; n ing and f rying them i n bu t ter oil t il l n icel y ,

used b y con f ec tioners when ma k ing icing f rom browne d then d usting wi th sa l t ; make a n ice ,

whi tes of e ggs t o facili tate the beating ,


. appeti zer o r hors d oeuvre .
,

.

AER ATED WAT E R S — Suc h as Vichy Apoll i DEVILLE D ALM OND S — M ade l ike sal ted a l , ,

n aris C arl sbad wa ter Friedrichshal l bi t ter


,
monds bu t af ter sa l tin g well d us ted wi th
, , , ,

e tc are ob tained from the springs o f n ature


.
,
caye nn e pepper .

an d re com men d e d for the relief and cure of ALU M — A whi te as tringen t sal t o f ten used to ,

d i ff eren t complain ts o f th e h u m an sys tem I mi wh i ten flour to quickl y cl ea r gin to i mprove


.
, ,

t a t i o n a e r a t e d w a t e r s mostl y con tai n sugar a n d the col or o f in f erior red w in es


'

are sold as pop such as ginger al e sarsaparilla AN C H OVIE S —T h e D u tch are al way s cleaned of
.
,

, , ,

e tc The ar tificial wa ters are si mpl y p ure


. thei r scales T h e French a r e n o t a n d are '

.
,

waters swee t e ned flavored an d charge d wi th , larger An chovy paste bough t on t he marke ts .

carbon ic aci d gas In Pari s oyster shells are . i s o f ten a d ul tera ted wi th red oc h re and Ven i -

washe d a n d brok en in to small pieces and t ian red


un d er the ac tion o f vi triol yiel d the carbon ic AN C H OVY C AN APE S —Sl ices of f ried b read
.
, , ,

.
, ,

aci d gas . on e qua rter inch thic k sp read wi th a nchovy -


,

ALBU M EN — A h opaque fluid foun d plen tifully pas te or bu t ter a fil l e t e d anch ovy on top the , ,

i n eggs mea ts fi sh and succulen t vege tables


, , edges decora ted wi th minced whi tes of hard ,

especiall y asparagus I t i s the m os t n ourish . boiled egg .

ing subs tance known ; used in i ts ra w s tate from AN C H OVY AIG RETTES — Fil le te d anchovies
whi tes of eggs by cooks chiefly in clarify ing wash ed then l aid for three hours i n a p ic k le of ,

pu rposes . ol ive oil vinegar and red pepper ; ta k en up


ALC OH OL—A color l ess l iqu i d ob tain ed f rom
, ,

drain ed dippe d i n ba t ter and f ried a ligh t color ,

fermen ting sugar ; i s found i n al l win es an d i n very ho t fat ; se rved garnish ed wi th lobster
spi ri t s and is the i n toxicating qual i ty of them co ral and sprigs of parsley
I t i s l argel y use d i n m aking flavoring ex trac ts A N C H OVY T O AST—Sl ices of toas t spread wi th
. .

by d il u tin g the oi l of the flavor required wi th a m ix ture made of t hre e fif th s essence of a n -

the alcohol Wood alcohol ob tained a t an y


. c h o vi e s one fif th grated Parmesan ch eese a n d -

d ru g s tore i s the best and cl ean es t ma terial to


, ,

on e fif th minced fil l e te d anchovies a n d chopped -

be use d i n singeing poul try a n d game pars l ey


ALLI G ATO R PEAR —A frui t found in the Wes t ANC H OVY AL U M E T T E S—Preserved ancho
. .

I ndies and Mexico bu t can be bough t a t mos t , vies i h oil drained rol led i n ve ry thin pie pas te , , ,

o f the frui t s tores i n se ason ; the l arge green f rie d ; serve d garn ished wi th fried parsl ey .

ones are the bes t ; they are served the same as ANC H OVY F R I T T E R S Fille ted anchovies
c a n t e l o u pe s or sl iced in to a salad seasone d
, coiled up di pped i n ba t te r a n d fried a l igh t ,

wi th pepper sal t and the j uice of a l ime


, co l or i n ho t fa t ; serve d garnished wi th fried
.

ALLSPI CE — T h e produc t of th e pi men to shrub parsl ey


used as a f oo d flav oring When ground i t has AN C H OVY TA R TIN ES —C i rcles of b rown bread
.
,

a grain ing of a ruby col oring ; purchased i n i ts spread wi th anchovy pas te decora te d wi th ,

ground s ta te is of ten adu l tera ted wi th mus tard


, thinl y sl iced gherk in s a l tern ately wi th whi te of
hu s k s . h ard boiled egg .
2 T H E C U LI N ARY H AN DB O OK .

AN C H O V Y B AS KETS — Har d boiled eggs par t , sprin k led wi th equal par ts of o l ive oi l and caper
o f the whi te cu t a w ay to f orm an oval b aske t vinegar bea ten together
AN C H OVY C A T S U P—Anchovies on ion s whole
.
,

yol k s removed a n d pounde d to a paste wi th a n , ,

c h o v y essence seasone d wi th lemon j uice and


,
cloves mace peppers and ginger sugar and o l d
, , ,

cayenne peppe r colore d ligh tly wi th carm ine , ale brough t to a quic k boil then slowly sim
, ,

or cochineal bask e ts refi lle d ; serve d garn ishe d


, mere d till d on e s train ed th rough a hai r sieve , ,

wi th watercress . cooled walnu t ca tsup added ; bo t tl ed for use


, .

AN C H OVY C R O UTON S — A paste of three fif th s -


AN C H O VY F R I T T E RS — T h i n fl our pancakes
anchovy essence one fif t h gra ted cheese a n d ,
-
spread wi th chicken forcemeat cu t in s trips ,

one fif th mel ted bu t ter a n d l emon j uice the


-
, t wice the si ze o f anchovy fi ll e t wh ich i s l aid on ,

paste spread on fan cy cu t sl ices o f f ried bread ; one hal f o f the s trip th e o ther hal f f ol d e d over
-
, ,

serve d wi th a coiled anchovy on top . then b read ed a n d fried ; serve d garnishe d wi th


AN C H OVY S AN DWI C H —T hin sl ices o f bread fried parsley
AN C H O V Y OM ELE T —B eaten eggs season ed
.

cu t in to shape of c i rcles spread wi th the pre ,

ce d ing m ix ture a n d fil l e te d anchovies laid


, wi th sal t pepper a n d chopped parsley m ade
, ,

bet ween . in to an omel e t the cen ter enclosing some cook e d


AN C H O VI E S WIT H O L IVES —Anchovy toas t
,

fi lle ts of anchovies ; serve d wi th equal p arts of


garn ished wi th slices o f s tu ffed ol ives . toma to an d espagn ol e sauc es m ix e d toget h e r .

AN C H OVY C AN APES BER NE T riangl e , AN GEL F O OD A ligh t whi te k ind o f sponge -


, ,

shape d pieces o f f ried brea d spread w i th a n , cake .

c h o v y paste or bu t ter the e d ges garnished wi th , AN G E L IC A — A g reen p rese rve d s tal k resembl ing
m inced whi tes o f hard boil ed eggs minced , rhubarb us ed to decora te cakes also i n iced
, ,

yol k s a n d m in ced green pickles wi th a s tu ff e d


, , pudd ings ic e c rea ms e tc , ,
.

olive i n the c en ter . AN I L I N E —A chem ical p roduc t of pe t roleum ;


AN C H O VY B U T T E R — Two par ts of bu t ter to the r e d i s th e cheapes t and bes t for cul in ary
one par t o f anchovy essence a l i t tl e g r ated , pu rposes besi d es being per f ec tly h armless
,
.

Parmesan cheese a n d nu t meg thoroughly m ixe d , A N I S E — A n he rb from the see d s o f wh ich i s e x ,

together . t rac te d th e oil o f an i se ; a l iqueu r called an i s


AN C H O VY P AS TE —An c h o v i z s fil l e te d t h e fil , e t te i s mad e f rom the oi l ; a small propor tion o f
l et s rubbed through a fi ne sieve the h ead and , oil of an ise m ixe d w i th alcoh ol p roduces e s ,

b ones boiled wi th a l i t tl e wa ter a n d thic k en ed sence of an i see d use d i n flavoring ca k es and ,

wi th flour s traine d in to the pas te obtain e d f ro m


, con f ec ti on ery .

the rubbing m ixed ; when cooled a l i t tl e coch


, ,
~
AN TE L O PE —A speci es o f d ee r ; the young are
i n e a l wal nu t cats up a n d v inegar a d de d to give
, , bes t for cul in ary pu rposes as the meat besi d e s , ,

the require d c olor a n d con sis tency . being treated i n all th e same ways as ven i son ,

AN C H OVY S A U C E — Anch o vy paste o r bu tter i s l igh t en ough i n color to allow of being l arded ,

worked in to a rich b rown sauce o r som e , wh ich can n o t be d on e t o ven ison R e d meats .

poun d ed fi l l e t e d anchovies or an ch ovy esse n ce , , should neve r be l arded on accoun t of thei r ,

l emon j uice and cayenn e pepper wo rke d in to a l oss o f blood a n d gravy i n c ook i ng .

cream or bu t ter sauce . APPLE S —Abou t twelve reall y good ki nds are
AN C H OVY C R E AM — Anchovy paste wor k ed ob tainable by th e s te war d f o r h otel purposes ,

in to a bu t ter sauce and fi n ish ed w i th whipped , Pound swee ts King B al d win s S pi t zenbe rgs , , , ,

cream N or the rn spy R hod e I sl an d g reen i ngs G ol d en


AN C H OVY ST UF F ING —U sed very o f ten f o r
.
, ,

pippi n s j ohn ath an s Win e saps S n ow Sh i a


, , , ,

s tu ffing olives and sm al l gam e b i rds On e . w a s s e beau ty R oxbury russe ts Wagene rs


, ,
.

cupful of breadc ru mbs squee zed ou t of m il k , T he re are o the rs bu t these are among the ,

on e tabl espoon ful o f m ince d f rie d on ion s f our , fi rs t rank .

m ince d fille ts of anchovies on e teaspoonful each ,


APP L E B AVAR O I S E — Appl e sauce fl avored ,

of m ince d capers a n d choppe d parsley the ,


wi th sher ry win e and l emon j uice wi th enough ,

whole m ixed ; i f used for s tu fii n g bi r d s a d d the ,


ge l atin e ad d ed to se t i t the whole passe d ,

b i r d s l iver minced . th rough a h ai r sieve whi ppe d c ream s ti r re d i n


AN C H OVIE S P O T T ED —Anchovy fi l l e ts poun d
,

accor d i ng to quan ti ty l i k e d th en pou re d i n to ,

ed and rubbed th rough a sieve m ixe d wi th ,


mol ds and allowed to se t till fi rm ; served wi th
groun d al lspice a n d cayenne pepper t o tas te wh ippe d c rea m .

APPL E B U T T E R —Peeled apples boile d d own


,

place d in to small j ars pressed d own a n d one , ,

eigh th o f an i n ch of mel ted lar d poured over i n cide r to a pul p wi th a flavor o f all spice the ,

the top to seal the c on ten ts


, . pul p then passe d th rough a fi n e s traine r .

AN CH OVY S AL AD — Shre d d ed fi l le ts of sal te d APP LE S B AKED — G oo d fi r m apples core d the ,

anchovies garn ished wi th s mall whi te pic k led core hol e fi lled wi th a mi x tu re o f bu t ter a n d
onion s cape rs a n d hard boile d eggs ; tarragon
,
sugar fl avore d wi th n u tmeg then p l ace d in to a ,

vinega r s prin k led over the anchovies Also . pan con t ain ing a l i t tl e water and baked t ill ,

sh redde d l et tuce and shre d de d anchovies a few don e


APPL E C A KE —
.
,

m i n c e d s h al l o ts al l mi x e d to g e the r d ry then ,
Apple sauce and an equal quan
T H E CU L I N A R Y H AN D B O O K
'

.
3

ti ty of bat te r of the con si stency o f c ream ma d e se rve d wi th a sauce ,


.

of flou r m il k eggs and sugar mi xe d toge the r APPLE S P O RT U GE S E S TY


,
LE — Fi rm appl es ,
, ,

a n d bak ed slowl y till d one ; when n earl y done core d peeled and si m mere d i n a thi n syrup , ,

the top dus te d wi th sugar re turned to oven to t ill barely done taken ou t d rained the core
, , , ,

ge t a glazed appearance hole filled wi th ap rico t j am pl aced on a d ish


. , ,

APPL E C H EE S E C AKE S — Pat ty pan s l i ne d th e syrup then re d uced to a glaze a n d pou r ed ,

wi th p u fl pas te fille d wi th apple marmal ade ,


ove r the m .

con tain ing a l i t tle grate d le mon rind and enough APPLE M E R I N G U E — Appl e pulp i n a d ish a ,

yolks o f eggs to se t l aye r o f fru i t marmalade sp rea d on i t wh ippe d


. ,

APPL E C H A R L O T T E —The bot tom and sides whi tes o f egg a n d sugar taste f ully sp read ove r ,

o f a pan o r mold l ined wi th th i n sl ices of bu t all then place d i n oven till o f a l igh t fawn ,

t e r e d b read the i n terior fi lle d wi th th ic k appl e color


marmal ade the top cove re d wi th sl ices of bu t APPL E T AR T —A pi e pl ate l ined wi th pu ff pas te
.
,

t e r e d b read h alf an inch th ick dippe d i n a mi x wi th a rai se d f ancy e d ge to i t ; fi lle d two th i r d s -

tu re o f milk and eggs the Charlot te then bak e d f ull wi th apple marma l ad e and baked ; when
,

a fi n e col or turned ou t and se rved wi th wh ip


,
d one fi lle d u p wi th a boiled cus tard the i n , ,
~

e d c ream t e r i o r e d ge pi ped round wi th meri ngue al so a


p . ,

APPL E C H U TN E Y— A pin t and a ha l f o f v in e fancy ce n t re ; re turn ed to oven till of a fawn


gar two ounces o i whol e ginge r bru ise d on e color
ounce of ch ill ies on e ounce of mus tard see d AP PL E S O U P —M inced cook ing app l es grate d
.
, ,

, , ,

t wo ounces o f sal t t welve ounces o f sugar b readcru mbs a n d wa te r each on e par t a piece
, , , ,

boile d slow l y for forty fi v e mi nu tes then of lemon r in d a n d a flavoring o f cinn amon
-
, ,

s trained th rough a hai r sieve ; when c ool ed th e boi le d ti ll thorough l y don e the whol e then ,

v in egar thus flavored pu t on again wi th a l arge p assed th rough a fi n e s train er a n d enough ,

on i on mince d on e an d on e half ounces of ,


whi te win e a d ded to f or m a soup con si s tency
-
.

minced shallots t wo ounces o f sul tan a raisin s APP L E PAN C AKE S —


,
M inced apples worked ,

an d t wo a n d on e h al f pounds o f peele d and -


i n to an ordin ary whea t pancake m i x tu re the ,

sl ice d appl es th e wh ol e boiled till apples are


,
pancakes baked i n the usua l way an d se rved ,

pulpy then place d i n to s ton e j ars a n d tied


,
wi th bu t te r and sugar .

down wi th ski n . APPL E S H O R T C AKE — T wo l aye rs of cooked


APP L E CR EA M —S wee t app l e sauce con tain in g s h o r t p a s t e sp read be tween wi th appl e marma
,

a l i t tl e bu t ter a n d wh ippe d whi te s of egg l a d e th e top ornamen te d wi th whi pped c ream ; .


,

APP L E C R O Q U E T T E S —T h ick appl e marm a se rved wi th swee tene d a n d flavore d cream .

l ade c o n tain ing so f t b read crumbs a n d egg yolks APP L E C O M PO T E — C ored and pared app l es
bak e d til l se t Wh en col d c u t i n s trips two
. si mmered i n a boil ing sy rup t ill thorough l y
,

i nches l ong and on e i nch th ick b reade d fried don e re main ing whole , , , , .

an d serve d wi th orange sauce APPL E R O LY P O LY — A biscu i t dough con


.

APPL E C U S T ARD — Apple marmal a d e mi xed t a i n i n g a l i t tle sugar rolle d ou t th in sp read , ,

wi th beaten eggs an d cream pou re d in to a pan wi th mi nce d apples season e d wi th grated le mon
, ,

or d ish and ba k e d t il l se t rind c in namon or groun d cloves accor d ing to


APPL E D U M PL I N G S —Cored and peeled a p
, . , ,

tas te rol l ed up the e nd s tucked i n t ie d i n a , , ,

ple s enclosed i n p i e paste bak e d boile d o r cl oth for boi l ing ( in a mol d f o r s team ing ) ( in a
, ,

s teamed til l d one se rved wi th a sauce o r wi th , p an for ba k ing ) : se rve d W i th a sauce or wi th ,

cream s wee tened c ream


APPL E F L O AT —C ream swee tened and fl avore d APP LE S F R I ED —G ood fi rm apple s peele d
. .

, ,

wi th nu t meg pou red i n a d ish or pan ; appl e core d cu t i n sl ices h al f an inch th ick then , ,

marmal a d e con tain ing wh ippe d wh i tes of egg d ipped i n m ilk rolle d i n flou r a n d f rie d i n , , ,

pou red i n th e cen tre ; b ake d till se t ve ry hot lard . .

APPL E F R I T T E R S — Sl ices o f c ore d apples APPL E J O H N N Y C A K E Sl ices o f peeled and ,

d ippe d i n ba t te r and fried t ill d one ; se rved core d app l es i n a bu t tere d ba k ing d i sh swee t ,

wi th a syrup o r win e sauce en ed and fl avored a pancake bat te r pou red


.

APPL E PI E —Th i n sl ice s of apples swee tened ove r the m ; bake d t i ll don e and se rved wi th o r
,

an d spice d enclosed be tween an uppe r and


,
wi th ou t cu rran t j elly .

l owe r c rus t of pi e pas te ; bake d till d on e APPL E M A R M AL AD E — S wee ten ed apple sauce .

APPL E I CE — Apple marma l ad e fl avored wi th boile d d own t ill th ic k enough to cl ing to a spoon .

o range j uice th i nn ed wi th wate r swee tened to A PPL E PUD D I N G — B asi n s o r mol d s lined wi th
, ,

tas te pou red i n to a f ree ze r and froze


, a sue t c rus t fi lled wi th sl ice s o f appl es swee t, , ,

APPL E C U S TAR D P I E —A p ie di sh l ined wi th ene d an d fl avored to tas te top c rus t pu t on


~
, ,

p u fi paste fi l l ed wi th appl e m armala d e m i xe d


,
the basi n ti ed ove r wi th a Clo th o r mol d cove r ,

wi th cream and yolks o f eggs ; ba k ed ti l l se t pl aced on an d tied boiled rapi d ly till d one . , .

APPL E C U S TA R D F R I T T E R S — Apple mar APPL E P U FF S — M inced apples f rie d a li t tl e so


malad e m ixed wi th cu s tar d baked t ill se t ; as n o t to break flavored wi th ci nnamon a n d
, ,

when cooled cu t i n s l ices b readed f ried and


,
sugar place d on squares o f pu ff paste t h e
, , . ,
4 T H E C U L I N AR Y H AN D B OO K .

edges b rough t to a top cen t re and pinched t o ci fu l l y pl aced around the mo l d these agai n ,

ge the r b rushed ove r wi th beate n egg a n d


, coa te d wi th j el l y th e mol d then fi lled wi th ,

bake d . j ell y se t tu rned ou t and the cen tre fi lled wi th


, , ,

APPL E C OB B L E R —A pan on e and a h al f B avarian c ream .

i nches d eep li ned wi th a p ie paste fi lle d wi th , AP R IC OTS I N C A SE S —F resh aprico ts hal ve d ,

appl e marmalad e top c rus t pu t on bak e d a n d , , s ton ed si m me red i n raspbe rry syrup serve d
, ,

gl azed serve d wi th s w ee tened and fl avore d


, i n rice cases wi th angel ica sauce . .

c ream or wi th whippe d c ream


,
. AP R IC O T F R I T TE R S — H alves of apricots or
APPL E T I M B ALE —A ti mbal e m old l ined wi th spoon f ul s o f aprico t marmal ade l aid on a th i n
s trips o f shor t paste fi lled wi th appl e m arma , ci rcl e of pas te an o the r c i rcl e pl aced on top
, ,

la d e cove red wi th a c rus t bake d or s teamed


, , edges pinched together tri m med fri e d till don e , ,
.

till pas te i s se t tu rne d ou t se rved wi th ap rico t


, , Al so halves of ap ricots l ai d i n dil u ted brandy
sauce a n d garn i shed wi th p rese rved cher ries and sugar for h al f an hour th en d ipped i n
APPLE S G L A Z ED —Core d and peel ed apples
.
, ,

bat te r frie d dus ted wi th sugar and se rved


, , ,

o f an even si ze si m mere d i n l emon syrup t il l wi th a sy rup sauce .

j us t done ta k en ou t place d on a d ish the


, , ,
AP R IC O T P ATTI E S O R V O L A U VEN T S - -

syrup re d uce d till thic k then pou re d ove r th e ,


Ve ry l igh t pa t ty shell s n early fi lled wi th apri ,

appl es ; when coole d d ecora ted wi th angel ica , co t marma l ade fi ni shed b y fi ll ing and d e c o ra t
,

a n d che rri es . ing wi th wh ippe d c ream .

APPL E F L O R EN T IN E — Apples cored and si m AP R IC OT M AR M ALAD E O R J AM — R aw ap


mered till hal f d on e i n sy rup tak en ou t , , ,
r i c o t s ston e d and rubbed th rough a si eve To .

d rain ed th e core hole fi ll ed w i th swee tene d


, every o o u n d of the pul p i s a d d ed ten ounces
rice the ou tsi d e coate d wi th a van ill a fl avored
, of sugar wi th a f e w o f th e kern el s bl anched
ches tnu t pu rée ; ma d e ho t agai n i n oven and and sk i nned ; boiled til l th ick en ough to coa t
served wi th a sp rin k l ing o f choppe d p is tach i o a spoon .

n uts . AP R IC OT S H E R B ET — Aprico ts boiled in syrup


A P R I C O T S O N T OAST —S tewed aprico ts on when don e rubbed th rough a fi ne sieve the ,

s wee tene d toas t garn i sh ed wi th whi ppe d c ream ,


syrup a n d pul p then pou red i n to a freeze r and
( call e d ap rico t s a n c r o fito n ) . frozen ; when nearl y d on e a fl avoring of mar ,

AP R I C O T S A N D R I C E F R I T T E R S — H al f an a s c h i n o and som e whi pped wh i tes o f eggs a re

apricot th e o the r h al f f orme d of rice c roque t te ad d ed then fro ze n fi ve minu tes


AP R IC O T S A U C E —Wate r sugar apricots
.
, ,

mi x tu re p u t toge the r b reade d f ri ed a n d


, , , , , ,

served wi th aprico t sauce ( cal l ed ap rico ts a l a l e mon j uice an d a l i t tle grated orange r in d ,

C olber t ) . boiled th ic k ened wi th co rn s tarch then rubbed


, ,

AP R I C O T S WIT H R I C E — S tewed or cann e d through a fi n e s train e r .

aprico ts i n syrup bordered wi th s wee ten ed ,


AP R IC O T T AR T L E T T E S S ma ll t a r tl e t te
rice wh ippe d c ream over the ap ricots sp ri nk
, ,
m ol d s l in ed wi th p u fi pas te fi lled wi th apricot ,

led wi th ch opped p istach io n u ts ( called ap ricots marmalade baked ; wh en d one the edges d e c
, ,

a l a C ondé ) ora ted wi th c rysta l i zed cherries and the cen ter
AP R I C O T B AVAR O I S E —S ti ff aprico t marma
.
,

piped wi th whipped cream .

l ad e wi th wh i pped c rea m con tai n ing a l i t tl e APR IC O T O M EL ET— B ea ten eggs wi th a fla v o r


ge l atin e mixed i n fi lled in to mo l ds se t till fi rm , , ,
i ng of van ill a made i n to an omel e t th e in side ,

turn ed ou t on a di sh and th e ed g e pi ped around ,


enclosing som e aprico t m armalade o r compo te ,

wi th whipped c ream . omele t then placed on dish d us ted wi th sugar , ,

APR IC O T C H A R L O TT E—A pan or m ol d l ined mar k ed wi th a ho t wi re o r glazed under a sa l ,

wi th l a d y fi ngers s tri ps of bu t te r ed bread o r aman d e r

ART I C H O KE S —A re of t wd k inds the green or


.
,

toas t fi lled wi th s tewed ap ricots cove re d w i th


, , ,

th e same materi al as the l in i ng baked tu rned , ,


gl obe a n d the Jerusalem T h e globe i s some
,
.

ou t a n d se rved wi th a frui t sauce


, . ti mes used f o r salads an d serve d wi th a French ,


A P R IC O T O B B L E R ( Some ti mes call ed Ap
C “
d ressing ho t wi th p e ppe r ; al so boile d plai n and
r i c o ts T wo sh ee ts o f pu ff paste served wi th an y o f th e sauces appropriate to
bake d on e spread wi th aprico t m armal ade the
, ,
cau l iflower T h e J erusa l em resemb l e s a rough
.

oth er l aid on top the n cu t i n squares d i amonds , , knobb l y po tato .

o r wi th a f ancy shape d cu t te r the e d ge orn a ,


AR T I C H O KE B OTT O M S B R AI S E D Ar ti
m e n t e d wi th pipe d meri ngue d ri e d in the oven ,
choke bo t toms fil l e d wi th chic k en forcemea t ,

t o a s t r a w color th e cen tre o f top decorated , braise d served on a c r o fit o n wi th a rich b rown


, ,

wi th j ell y . o r mush roo m sauce poured around .

A P R IC O T C OM P O T E —A pricots si mme red i n ARTI C H O K E B OTT O M S WIT H F O RC E


thic k sy rup t ill done se rved wi th the sy rup ,
M E A T — Ar tichoke bot toms spread wi th a purée
they were cooked in . of onion s and rice m ixed toge th er fil l ed u p wi th ,

AP R IC O T C H ART RE U S E —A cen tre j elly mol d forcemea t sprinkled wi th grated cheese and
,

decorate d a t bo t tom wi th s ti ffene d cream si d es ,


b readcru mbs arranged i n a pan m ois tened, ,

coated wi th j el l y ha l ves o f cooked ap rico ts f a n , wi th con som me and brown ed in the oven .
T H E C U L I N AR Y H AN D B O OK .

Served wi th cream onion sauce around ( cal l ed wa ter til l ten d er taken up and d rained then , ,

A r tichok es a l a Soubi se ) .
pu t i n scallop shell s or d ishes covered wi th a h ,

ART IC H OKE B OTTOM S W I T H F O I E GR AS c h o v y sauce sprinkled wi th gra ted cheese and


— Ar ticho k e bo t to ms spread wi th a m ix ture o f
,

bread c ru mbs then b ro wned i n the oven


-
, .

foie gras and minced tru ffles c overed wi th a


-
, AR TIC H OKE B OTTO M S ST UFFED — A r ti
re d uced whi te mush room sauce gra ted bread , choke bot toms fi ll ed wi th f o rce mea t covere d ,

c rum b s sprin k led over then b rowne d i n th e , wi th sup reme sauce sprinkled wi th gra te d ,

oven ; serve d wi th a t r u fll e sauce poured around , cheese and bread crumbs b rowned i n th e oven -
, ,

( called F onds d A r t i c h au t s a l a S trasbourg )


, . and served wi th sauce Supreme ( ca l le d Fon d s


ART IC H OK E FR I TTE R S —C ooked ar tichok e d Ar t i c h a u t s a l a Supr em e )

bo t tom s seasone d breaded or di pped i n b at te r , , AR TIC H O KE O M E LET— Thi n s trips of the


and fried i n very ho t l ard ; o r mash ed J e r u s a tender par t o f the globe ar tichoke seasoned
l e m ar tichokes mi xed wi th e gg yo l ks an d sea ,

wi th sal t a n d peppe r l igh tl y fried i n bu t ter , ,

s o n e d wi th nu tmeg taken up by spoonful s a n d , d rained added to beaten eggs con tain i n g chop
,

fried ped parsl ey made i n to an o mele t ; serve d wi th


A R TIC H OKE C H IP S —j erusalem ar tichok es
.
,

c ream sauce poured aroun d the o mel e t


A RTIC H OKE S WI TH E G G —Ar tichok e bo t
.

peel ed and cu t in to very thin slices wi th a S ara


toga ch ip cu t ter pl ace d i n cold sal te d w ater fo r , t oms boile d served on toast garn ished wi th
, ,

an h ou r taken up a f e w a t a ti me d ried then


, , ,
quar tered ha rd boile d eggs and m ai tre d h d te l ,

fried i n very ho t fat d rained spri nkled wi th , bu t ter pou red ove r th e ar tichokes .

ARTIC H O KE S B O ILE D — Gl obe ar tichokes


,

sa l t .
,

AR TI C H OKE S A U G R A T I N — Same a s ar ti th e t ips of the l eaves c u t a n d the bo t toms


chokes scal l ope d Ar tichoke bo t toms cu t i n . rounded the s tal k removed and the un d er
,

slices and mi xed wi th Béchamel sauce may be ,


l eaves tri m med a way ; wel l washed an d soaked
used . i n sal ted wa ter for an h ou r placed i n boil in g ,

ARTIC H O K E B OTTO M S W I T H R A G O U T sal ted water a n d boi l ed rapi d l y t ill ten d er


, ,

Ar tichoke bo t tom s fi lled wi th a m i x ture o f taken up d rained the choke removed served
, , ,

diced tru ffles mushroo ms ton gue and b reas t , ,


wi th mel ted bu t ter or sauces appropria te to ,

of chicken al l mixed wi th Allemande sauce a


, ,
caul iflower .

thi n l ayer of ch icken f orcemea t placed on top . A RT IC H OKES FAM I LY S T YLE — J erusalem ,
.

sprinkled wi th grated bread crumbs and cheese -


,
ar tichokes peeled and t ri m med to the shape of
then b rowned ( called Fond s d A r t i c h au t s a l a , ,

pears wi th a fla t bo t tom boiled i n sal t e d wa te r ,

M o n tgl as ) . til l t ender ; a di sh of m ashed po ta toes ar ti ,

G LOB E AR T I C H O K ES C O LB ER T S AU C E ,
chok es pl aced aroun d i t poin t upwards and a ,

Globe ar tichokes tri mmed and the choke r e ' bo iled B russe l s sprou t placed be t ween each

m oved parboile d i n sal ted wa ter d raine d ' ar tichoke .

AR TIC H OKE S O U P — G lobe ar tichokes par


, ,

cooled then arranged i n a sauce pan wi th a


,
-

l i t tle bu t te r w hi te win e an d con sommé ; si m


,
boiled i n sal te d water the cho k e e d ibl e pa r t , ,

mered til l d on e a n d gla zy ; served wi th C o l ber t a n d leaves rubbed through a sieve th e pu rée ,

sauce pou red aroun d ( called A r tich okes a l a ,


thus ob taine d one par t ; c ream of chic k en soup ,

Lyonn aise ) . on e par t ; on ion c ream sauce on e par t al l i n ,

GLOB E ARTIC H OK E S ST U F F E D —G l obe ar .


c o r po ra t e d and boil ing m ilk added t o ob tai n
,

t i c h o k e s tri m med and the choke removed t he ,


the desi red consis tency of th in c ream .

bot toms fried quic k l y i n o l ive oi l for three m in ART I C H O K E AN D O N I ON S A L AD - Ar ti


u tes turned over and th e leaves fried a m inu te
, ,
choke bot tom s and on ion s bo th c ooked and
taken u p and d rained th e in terior fi lle d wi th a ,
sl iced d ished al te rna tel y garn ish ed wi th cook e d
, ,


savory s tu fli n g of mea t herbs and bread crumbs ; ,
- bee ts a n d carro ts cu t wi th a fancy cu t ter ; serve d
arranged in a s a tl to i r then c overed wi th thin ,
e i ther wi th French d ressing or sa l ad c ream .

s l ices of bacon equa l par ts of wh i te win e and , ART IC H OKE AND T OM ATO S ALAD —C ooked
con somm e si m mered til l ten d er t aken up
, , , ar tichok e bo t toms an d raw sl iced pee l ed to ma
d rained the braise reduced to a glaze skim med
, , toes same si ze as the bo t tom s a r r arfi e d al ter
, ,

and added to an I talian sauce ; served wi th the n a t e l y on dish sprink l ed wi th F rench d ressing,

sauce poured around ( called A rtichokes a l a , con tain ing c hoppe d chervil .

B a r i go u le) .
A S PA R AG U S — I s of t wo kinds the red and ,

ARTIC H O K E B OTTO M S WI TH ON I ON S green ; the red is l arge th ic k and ful l ; the green ,

Ar tich oke bo t toms fi ll ed wi th a m ix ture of fried i s smalle r wi th a wh i tish s ta l k and green head
, ,

on ion s b read crumbs and Parmesan cheese


,
-
, , of del ica te fl avor .

sprinkled wi th l emon j uice then b rowned i n , AS PARAG U S S T EWED — Aspara g us heads also ,

the oven ; served wi th a b rown sauce poured the ten d e r par t of the s tal k s cu t i n to i nch
'
around ( called Fonds d Ar t i c h a u ts a l I ta l i e n n e )
,

.
l ength s blanched d rained then si m m ere d til l
S C ALL OP E D ART IC H OKES —j erusa l e m ar ti
, , ,

ten d er i n a bu t ter sauce fi n ished b y a d d in g a ,

chok e s cu t to shape of oys ters boi l ed i n sa l t ed , l iason of egg yol k s and c ream .
6 T H E C U LI N ARY H AND B O OK .

AS PA RA G US S AUC E H OLLAND AI SE — A s
, j uice the asparagus cove red wi th the cheese
,

pa r ag u s hea d s wi th al l the tende r par t o f the and bu t ter browne d i n the oven and serve d
, .

s talk at tached boiled i n boiling water con tain


, ASPI C—T h e n ame given to a clear savory j ell y
ing a small piece o f common washing so d a a n d made f rom m eat and i s u sed to d ecora te e n ,

sal t t ill d on e a p iece o f toas t place d on a d i sh


, . trees pies hams tongues game pigs h eads
, , , , ,

the asparagus s tal k s res ting on the toas t wi th salads p rawn s vege tables fi sh e tc
, , , , .

the head s i n the dish H ollan d aise sauce poure d , ASPIC j E L LY — Plen ty o f veal k nuckles cal f s ,

over the head s .


f ee t boned a n d blanche d and a fowl o r t wo are
ASPA R A G U S — Cook ed l ike the prece d ing may
,

covered wi th clear wa ter fe tched slowly to a ,

also be serve d wi th plain mel t e d bu t ter cream , , boil sk i m med a l i t tle col d wa ter then a d d e d
, , ,

velou té mousseline o r bechamel sauce ; al so


,
, again brough t t o the boi l and sk i mmed carrots , ,

a f te r cooking allowed to become col d a n d ,


, onion s c ele ry parsley a l i t tl e garl ic bay
, , , ,

served wi thou t toas t bu t wi th ei th er tar tare , leaves thyme m ace and whol e peppe rs are
, ,

vin aigret te o r mayonnaise sauce . then adde d a n d simm ere d slowly for six hou rs ,

ASPAR A G U S OM ELE T Asparagus tips f a t ta k en o ff th en s trained through a consom me


,

b l anched and drain e d then frie d l igh tly in , towel all o wed to become qui te col d a n d al l fat
,

bu t ter surplus bu t ter poured o ff a n d a l i t tle


, removed then place d ove r a quick fi re brough t
, ,

c ream sauce a d ded ; omele t m ix ture con tain ing to the boil ski mme d removed to c ool o fi a , ,

choppe d pars l ey forme d enclosing a spoon f ul , li t tle ; wh il e cool in g gelatin e a t th e r ate of t wo ,

of the asparagus placed on a dish and a spoon , ounces to the gallon is adde d ; som e le an veal
f u l of asparagus placed a t each end . i s now choppe d fi ne a n d m i xe d wi th some whip
ASPAR AG U S P OI N TS WI TH Q U E N E LL E S p e d wh i te s o f eggs a n d egg s h el ls also a bot tle
—Asparagus p oin ts and abou t two inches o f
,

o f whi te wi ne th is m i x ture poured i n to the ,

th e s tal k boi l ed d rain ed laid on toas t bor d , , ,


cooling s tock and allowed t o come t o a slow
e red wi th sma ll quenelles of chicken a n d H ol ,
boil ; when j us t a t boil ing poin t a l i t tl e ice wate r
landaise sauce poured over the tips . con tain ing l emon j uice i s pu t i n a n d as soon ,

A S PA RA G U S S O UP— Asparagus hea d s blanche d as coagul ation take s pl ace i t i s d rawn to on e


drain ed and ligh tly fried wi th m ince d shallots side and allowe d to si m mer slowl y for an hou r
i n bu t ter then lai d aside the s tal k s boile d i n
, , l onge r th en s trained th rough a j elly bag a n d
,

vea l o r chic k en broth till ten d er a l i t tle whi te se t away f o r u se .

AT E L E T T E — I s a skewer generally ma d e of
,

roux ad d ed th en rubbed through a sieve and


,

mixed wi th equa l par ts of vel ou té an d c ream silver or pl ate d m e tal and i s use d to d ecora te ,

sauce brough t to a si m mer the heads n ow


, ,
ho t and cold pieces for banque t tables ; co mbi
a d d ed a n d se rved . n ation s on th e sk ewe r accor d in g to th e d ish
~

ASPA R A GU S PU R E E — Asparagu s poin ts and and the fancy of the cook can be ma d e of coc k s
the ten d e r par t o f the s talks blanched and combs bu t ton mush rooms c rayfi sh prawn s
, , , ,

d rained l igh tly fried i n bu t ter wi th som e


, a n i m e l l e s ( lamb f ries ) c arrots turn ips green -
, ,

m inced shall ots green on ion s parsley and a , ,


peas parsley tru ffles swee tb reads c rys tal li zed
, , , ,

l i t t l e sugar tu rne d i n to chic k en b ro th brou gh t


,
,
frui ts pres erved viole ts ch erries s trawbe rries
, , , ,

to a boil thicken ed wi th whi te roux the whol e


,
s wee t j ell y aspic j ell y e tc e tc , ,
.
, .

AT T E R E A U X — I s a s k ewe r generally used f o r


,

rubbed th rough a sieve spin ach j uice added t o ,

hel p giv e a greeni sh co l or season ed and cook ing d ishes en b roche tte ( see broche t te ) .

BAB A—A ligh t yeas t r aised ca k e con tain ing


,

served .

ASPARAG U S S ALAD—T w o inch l engths wi th frui t and al m on d s gen erally served as desser t ,

the head of cold boiled asparagus served on a wi th a ru m sauce .

leaf o f le t tuce wi th a crea m salad d ressing .


B AK IN G P OWDE R I s be t ter made than
A SPARAG U S AN D SALM ON SA LAD A bough t ; the following receip t i s cheap a n d
spoon f ul o f ice cold sal mon en mayon n aise gar e ffec tive : fi ve poun d s of tar taric acid e igh t ,

h ished wi th asparagu s tips i n French d ressin g


.
poun d s of b i — carbon ate of soda six teen pounds ,

AS PARAG U S AN D C AU L I FL OWE R S ALAD of pota to fl ou r m ixe d and rubbed through a



,

C ooke d cauliflowe r i n fl o We r e ts garn ish e d fi n e sieve B y th e add i ti on of a quar ter o f an


.

wi th asparagus tips serve d spri nkled wi th ,


ounce of turmeric to eigh t poun d s of baking
choppe d cape rs and cream sal ad d ressing .
powder you prod uce E G G P OWD ER wh ich ,

ASPAR AGU S PATTIE S C ooked asparagus saves eggs a n d gives rich n ess of color
B ANAN A—S em i —
.

heads and mushroom s i n equal par ts m ixed t i o p i c a l f ru i t tha t grow i n bun


wi th velou té sauce pa t ty she l l s fi lled wi th the ,


ches some ti mes six fee t in length a n d con tain
m ix ture tops place d on ; serve d wi th a sauce
, ing four to fi ve hundred bananas that when , ,

mousseline poure d around the b ase .


ripe change ei ther to a b righ t yello w or purple
,

AS PAR AG U S WIT H C HEESE — C ooked aspar red color T h e yell ow are esteemed for thei r
.

agus hea d s seasone d wi th sal t an d pepper ,


fl avor wh il e the red are bes t for coo k ing as
, ,

placed in a vege tabl e dish equal par ts o f bu t ter ,


they are more fi rm T h e me rch an ts i n sell ing .

and gra ted parmesan cheese poun d ed toge ther th e frui t fi x the price accord in g to the nu mbe r
,

W i th a season ing o f cayenn e pepper a n d lemon of H AN D S th e bunch con tain s A hand i s a .


T H E C U L I N AR Y H AND B O OK .
7
sec tion on the s talk and con tains accord ing to ,
whi te sauce i mi ta ting a ham skin ; they are
,

the si ze Of the frui t from ten to t wen ty banan as then ornamen ted wi th aspic j ell y a te l e tte s e tc
B AR AQ U I L LE —J s the fo reign cul inary term f o r
. .
, , ,

B ananas m ay be bough t i n a green s tate much


cheaper than when ripe When bough t green .
,
a pat ty or vo l au ven t fi lled wi th a m ince o f
- -

the way O f ripen ing i s to hang the bunches up vea l chicken par tridge t ru ffles small game
, , , , ,

i n a dark room and subj ec t the m to a s tea d y ,


f resh mushrooms swee tb rea d s e tc , , .

hea t of seven ty fiv e d egrees -


. B A R B E C U E — M eans an an i ma l roas ted whole
B AN AN A F R I T T E R S — B ananas cu t slan twise al though i n recen t years the word has been
i n halves laid for a whi l e i n d il u ted brandy
,
applied to gath erings a t places where an an i mal
and sugar then d ipped i n ba t ter a n d frie d in
,
roasted whol e and se rved to the guests i s the
plen ty of ho t fa t taken up d rained rol led i n principal f ea ture Of the par ty
B AR O N O F B EE F — One of the olden ti me
.
, , ,

powdered sugar and serve wi th a f rui t sauce , .


-

B AN AN AS B A KED — B an an as spl i t i n halves


'
d i shes of G rea t B ri tain s banque t tables the ,

l en gth wi se laid i n a bu t tered pan dusted wi th


, ,
term applied to t wo shor t l oi n s o f beef l ef t
powd ere d sugar browne d quickly i n the oven ; whol e resembl ing a saddle of mu t ton
B A S I L —T h e name O f a favori te herb u sed i n
.
, ,

served wi th a cocoanu t syrup sauce


B AN AN A S F R IE D —B ananas spli t i n halves
.

seasonin g tur tle soup C loves resembl e i t i n .

l eng thwi se d ipped i n milk then rolle d in flour


, , ,
taste and fl avor and since the he rb i s as a rul e
,

fried in clear bu t ter to a golden brown ; serve d hard to procu re even in the l arge c i ties the
, ,

wi th curran t j elly .
clove doe s du ty fo r i t i n a ve ry c re d i table
B AN AN A C O M POTE —B anan as cu t i n quarte rs man ner
B AG R A T I ON —T h e name appl ied th rough a for
.

s l an twise sim mere d i n syrup t ill don e ; serve d


,

on a bed of s wee ten ed rice wi th the syrup e i g n mediu m to a f e w d ishes principally soups ,
,

poured ove r them .


tha t are composed of a me d ley of fi sh and v e ge
B AN AN A I CE C R EA M — Bananas pee l ed and tables .

rubbed through a fi n e sieve ; added to the c ream B AR LEY— A grain used by brewers i n m a l tin g
to be fro zen a t the ra te of one pound o f pulp to gene rall y found on the m arke t i n t wo si zes o r
the gallon . qua l i ties known as Scotch an d Pearl Th e .

B AN AN A S ALAD Al tern a te s l ices O f banan as -


.
Scotch i s l arger and has the i nner husk lef t on ;
pee l ed oranges an d dessica ted cocoan u t are ,
the Pearl i s sma l le r and comp l e tel y freed from
placed in a frui t d ish till full over which i s ,
husk which makes i t bet ter a d ap ted for cul i
,

poured enough b rand y and rum mixed wi th n ary use ; chiefly use d i n soups and grue l s .

sugar to j us t m oisten the salad . B A S S —A wel l kn own species of fi sh especia ll y ,

B A C ON — I s known as sal ted and d ried T he . a d ap ted for cul inary pu rposes on accoun t of i ts
sal ted is generally use d as boi l in g bacon a n d ,
shape and si ze as we l l as i ts fi r m meat an d del i ~

the dried wh ich is subsequen tl y smoked i s


, ,
cate flavo r There are four o r five pri nci pa l
.

general ly used for frying and broilin g I n sel ec t . k inds ch iefly used the B l ack S triped S ea , , , ,

ing bacon d iscard an y wi th yellow fa t G ood . S i l ver and S po t ted of wh ich th e B l ack stands
, ,

bacon i s red in the lean and the fa t i s whi te a n d fi rs t


B AS S B R O I L E D —The fi sh i s chosen of as n ear
.

fi rm . B acon fa t i s be t te r th an bu t ter for


man y th ings tha t have to be fried such as l ive r , ,
a pound i n weigh t as possible i f fo r cl ub or ,

veal chops on ion s fo r cu rry e tc is al so u sed


, , .
, res tau ran t use : scaled t ri mmed seasoned , , ,

instead of ol ive O i l wi th po ta to sala d l e t tuce ,


scored slan twise rol l ed i n flou r brushed wi th
, ,
-

salad combination sa l ad e tc
, B acon i s , . mel ted bu t ter or ol i ve O il broiled ; serve d wi th ,

approp riate boi l ed wi th cabbage k rau t and ,


a sl ice of b roiled bacon a spoon f ul o f mel ted ,

strin g wax and harico t bean s ; i t i s an i mprove


, bu t ter sl ice of le mon an d a garn ish of pars l ey
, ,
.

men t to an omele t and i s th e prope r thing to , I f used as a cou rse of a din ner before b roil ing ,

eat wi th l iver eggs and fow l s , .


i t i s fil l e te d i n to por tion pieces
B AI N M AR I E—A foreign cul inary term for a
.

-
B A S S F R I E D P repare d as the prece d ing e x
-
,

ho t water bath i n which a re kep t the pots or cep t i t i s n o t score d ; f ried a golden b rown a n d ,

saucepan s con tain in g sauces garn i tu res e n , , served as i f b roi l ed o r wi th toma to anchovy , ,

t rees soups e tc tha t requ i re to be k ep t ho t


, , .
, or G ene voise sauces .

wi thou t reach in g the boil ing poin t .


B AS S B O I LED — Scal ed t rim med cu t in to por
B ALL O T I N E — I s th e n ame given t o a chaud
, ,

t ion pieces pl aced in to boilin g wa te r con tain


,

froid of poul try gam e foie gras spring l amb , ,


-
, , i ng sl ices Of carro t and on ion bay l eaves whole , ,

e tc i s m ade by m incin g the fl es h and f orming


.
, peppe rs sal t a n d a dash of v i negar ; serve d
,

i t in to f orcemeat then s tu ffi ng smal l boned , wi th e i the r bu t te r c ream parsley sh ri mp a n


, , , ,

bi r d s such as l arks quails sn ipe woodcock , , , , c h o v y oyste r o r holl andaise sauces ; some ti mes
,

squabs e tc cook ing the m and se rving them serve d wi th green peas
B AS S B AK E D —Scaled t ri m med ( lef t who l e for
.
, , .

cold S ometi mes the f orcemea t i s s tu ff ed in to


.
, ,

the skin of a turkey l eg se wn up cooked , , ,


restauran t and cu t in por tions i f for ho tel use ) ,

shaped lik e a ha m ; when col d on e end i s -


, placed in pan seasoned wi th w in e b r o th O il
, , , ,

masked wi th a b rown sauce the o ther wi th a , sal t peppe r and m inced shal l ots shee t of O i l ed
, ,
8 T H E C U L IN A R Y H AN D B O O K .

pape r p u t over baked ; when n early done p rior to tossi ng them over they are s t re wn wi th
, ,

equal quan ti ties o f parsley a n d espagnol e sauces s teame d curran ts Served cu rran t side up wi th .

a d d ed to the p an ; the fi sh served wi th the powd ered sugar n o t rolled ,


.

sauce ( calle d B ass a l a C on d é )


.
,
BATTE R f o r York sh i re pu d d ing i s ma d e of th ree
.

B A S S B R A IS ED — Prepared as the prece d ing quar ters o f a p ound o f fl ou r g ra d uall y moi stened ,

placed i n pan o r sau toi r con tain ing sl ices O f wi th th ree p in ts O f mil k n i ne bea ten eggs and , ,

car rot on ion cele ry a n d parsley wi th enough


, ,
h al f a cup o f mel ted bu t ter ; on e teaspoon ful o f ,

Bor d elaise sauce to mois ten the fi sh b rais e d sal t an d t wo of bak ing pow d er i s bea ten i n j us t ,

slowl y till d one ; serve d wi th the sauce a n d b e f ore pu t ting i n to oven .

garn ished wi th sh ri mps ( calle d B ass 51 la B or B ATT E R f o r whea t gri d dle cakes i s m ad e of a
.
,

d e l ais e ) . poun d of flou r o n e o u n c e o f bak in g po wd e r ,


_
,

B AS S B R A I SED —T h e fi sh cu t i n to fil le ts l ar d t wo beaten eggs three cups o f mil k a l i t tl e , , ,

ed,
braise d i n equa l par ts O f tomato and b é c h mel ted b ut ter sugar and sal t , .

amel sauces ; when c ook ed th e sauce poure d B ATTE R for corn gri d d l e cak es i s m ad e of hal f
,

in to saucepan a n d a d d e d to i t some pu rée o f


,
a poun d each O f wheat fl our and corn meal
mush rooms lobs te r roe sl ice d t ru ffles a n d
,
m ixed d ry wi th a l i t tle sal t an d on e ounce of
,

s a fit e r n e wine ; the fi sh serve d wi th the sauce bak in g powder then mois tened wi th a pi n t , ,

and garn i she d wi th fi sh quenelles ( calle d b ass each of m ilk and wate r t wo bea ten eggs a l i t tl e , , , ,

a l a C hambord ) . sy ru p and t w o t a b l e spoon f ul s of mel te d bu t ter -


.

B A S S S AU T E — T h e fi sh p repare d as f o r fry i ng B ATTE R f o r fl ann el grid d le c akes i s ma d e of a ,

rolled i n fl ou r a n d fried plain ; a l i t tl e g ravy


,
poun d O f flou r 3 quar t of wa te r an d a s mal l ,

m ade i n the pan the fi sh was fried i n wi th fl our c ake of yeas t th i s i s se t to rise ; when risen , ,

and fi sh b roth and served wi th th e fi sh gar ,


t wo eggs t wo ounces o f mel te d l ard a l i t tl e sal t , , ,

n ished wi th fancy po tatoes ( called bass a l a and sy rup are beaten in allowe d t o r ise again
, ,

M eun i ere ) .
before bak ing .

B A S S C R OQ U ET T E S — Cold c ooked bass wi th B ATTE R for graham gri d d l e cak es is made th e


the skin and bones removed then p ic k ed a n d same as for corn excep t usin g graham flou r fo r
, ,

pu t i n a thick fi sh cream sauce seasone d wi th th e co rn meal , .

anchovy essence sal t peppe r a n d gra te d n u t B ATTE R f o r rice grid d le cak es is made of a pin t
, ,

meg allowed to b ecome col d shape d i n to c ro


,
each of si f te d fl our and d ry boiled rice m i xe d
,

q u e tt e s b rea d ed fried a n d served wi th e i the r


, ,toge ther w i th a li t tle sal t on e teaspoon f ul O f
, ,

tomato bor d el aise gen oise o r anchovy sauces


,
ba k ing po wd e r moi stened wi th hal f a pin t of
, , ,

garn ished wi th parsley and s l iced le mon m il k t hree eggs an d a l i t tl e syrup . , .

B ATTE R — A con si stency of fl ou r a n d l iqu i d s B A TTE R for buck whea t cak es i s made o f se l f
used t o d i p foo d s i n be f ore fry ing ; al so a pan raisi ng buck whea t fl our prepare d accor d in g to
cak e an d pud d in g mix tu re T h e f ollowing the d irec tion s given on the package ; o r on e
.

fri tte r bat ter i s u sed f o r fryi ng any foo d s o f a pound of buck whea t fl ou r mois tened wi th a pin t
plai n n atu re : a pound of flou r i s g ra d uall y and a hal f of warm wa te r wi th en ough yeas t
moi stened wi th a h al f p in t e ach O f mi l k a n d a d de d to raise i t ; wh en ri sen a li t tle sal t sy rup , ,

wate r a d d ed t o wh ich i s th e whippe d whi tes


,
an d mel ted lard o r b u t ter i s beaten i n to i t an d ,

of fou r eggs and half a cup o f mel ted bu t ter some ti me s a l i t tle corn m eal i s appreciate d . .

B ATTE R fo r fryi ng swee t foo d s and f ru i ts i s B AY L EAVES —T h e l eaf of the l au rel tree d r ied
made of a poun d O f flou r a heaping teaspoon ful a n d used i n season ing soups ; sauces
,
t h ey ,

of ba k in g pow d e r and hal f cup O f sugar m i xe d resemble i n taste a n d flavor bi t ter a l monds , .

toge ther d r y then moi s tene d wi th a cup a n d a B EAN S— One of th e mos t n u tri tious f o o d s tha t
,

h al f of mil k a n d t wo beaten eggs c an be use d ; th e varieties mos t use d are the .

B ATTE R for frying vege tables i s made of a l i m e or bu t ter bean th e wh i te harico t or n avy ,

pound O f flour seasone d wi th sal t moi s tened b ean th e r e d a n d the bl ac k haricot th e fl a g , , ,

wi th a pin t of m il k on e beaten egg an d a e o l e t or k i d ney bean


, ,
.

spoon f ul o f Ol ive O il LI M A BE AN S B OI LED — T h e d rie d bean s are


.

B AT TE R f o r F rench pancakes i s m ad e o f a soak ed i n water for a f e w h ours then boi le d ,

pound O f flou r very gra d uall y moi sten e d wi th a till tend e r d raine d seasone d wi th sal t pepper , , ,

quar t of m il k and si x teen bea ten eggs the and bu t ter or m ixe d wi th cream sauce If , ,
.

g ra ted ri n d and j u ice O f one le mon a n d a seas canned bean s a re use d they are fi rs t washed
oning of sal t T h i s bat ter i s f ri ed i n s mall
. f rom thei r can l iquor then hea te d a n d season e d ,

H OT f rying pan s ve ry th in tosse d over as above ; i f f resh beans are use d they are pu t
, , , ,

spread wi th prese rves rol l e d up a n d sp rin k led t o boil i n boili ng water con tain ing sal t a n d a
,

wi th pow d e re d sugar T hey are al so calle d smal l piec e of common washing so d a ; when
. .

j E N N Y L IN D PAN C AK ES done d raine d n d seasoned as a b ove .


, , a .

B AT TE R for S wiss panca k es is ma d e O f six oun L I M A B EAN S S AU T E —T h e beans e i ther d ried ,

ces O f flour grad uall y moi s ten e d wi th six beaten f resh or can ne d are prepared up to the season
eggs and a quar t of mil k wi th a season ing o f ing poin t o f the p rece d ing recei p t then pl aced ,

sal t ; they are fried l i k e the p rece d ing bu t i n pan con tain i n g e i ther sm al l pieces of cooked ,
TH E C U L I N A R Y H A N DB O O K.

bacon or sa l t pork o r j us t pl ain me l ted bu t ter
,
O f te n placed on the bil l of fare as baked pork ,

then thoroughly tossed and hea te d i n the pan and bean s The bean s a re washed and soak e d ,
.

seasoned ; some ti mes they are sprinkled wi th ove r n igh t ; i n to the bean j ar i s pu t some bl ac k
fi nely chopped parsley be f ore serv ing no l as s e s sal t peppe r a n d d ry mu stard these
.
, , ,

LI M A BEAN S S ALAD —E i ther d rie d fresh o r ar e wel l mi xe d c ol d wa ter i s then added to


, ,

canned bean s bo ile d till tender ; wh en col d they thi n the m ix ture ; the soak ed bean s n o w pl ace d
are mixe d wi th a cream h ollandaise or mayon i n to the j ar fi ll ing i t t wo th i rds f ul l a p iece of
,
-
,

n aise salad dressing a n d se rved on a bed o f scored o r sl ices of sal t pork i s pl aced on top ,

le t tuce.
of the bean s j ar fi lled wi th wate r l id place d , ,

L I M A BEAN S P U R E E — Soa k ed d ried bean s on a n d pu t in a sl o w oven an d baked t il l done ; ,

pu t to boil wi th a piece O f sal t por k i n whi te shoul d be se rved wi th s teamed b rown b read .

s toc k con tain ing on ions carrots parsl ey a n d The more com mon way ho w ever tha t pork and
, , , , ,

whole mace ; when cook e d the por k and v e ge bean s are cook e d i s t o soak th em ove r n igh t , ,

tables remove d the bean s a n d s toc k rubbed


, place them on to boi l i n th e morning when a t ,

through a fi ne sieve then pl aced i n a cl ean , boil ing poin t they are sk i m med and the sal t ,

saucepan brough t to the boi l seasone d a l i t tl e


, pork pu t to boil wi th them when done the po rk
, , ,

flou r a n d wa ter thic k en i ng a d d ed to preven t re move d and cu t i n sl ices the bean s pu t i n to ,

coagul ation ; serve d wi th small toas t pans seasoned some times col ore d wi th caramel
.
, , ,

LI M A B EAN S c ream O f — Equal par ts o f the


, t h e s l ice s O f pork arranged on top of the bean s ,

fin i shed pu rée o f the prece d ing a n d cream or sprin k led wi th sugar an d pl aced i n the oven til l
,

v é l o u t é sauce made h o t separate then thor browned


H AR IC O T B E AN S WI TH B AC ON —The cold
, , .

oughl y mixed wi thou t fur ther boil ing .

F L AG E O L E T S or ki d ney bean s are ob tain abl e bean s are n icel y fried wi th bu t ter o r bacon fat ,

i n can s or i n the d ri ed s tate T h e average seasoned wi th sal t and peppe r wi th a l i t tle sage
.
,

pa tron does n ot kno w wha t a fi age o l e t i s hence then served wi th a sl ice o f broile d bacon , .

the cal l for the m a t tabl e i s small ; bu t mos t H AR I C O T B E AN S P U R E E — Soaked bean s pu t


peopl e know wh at a k idney bean i s an d i f pu t to boil wi th sal t pork i n wh i te s tock con taini ng
,

on the bill of fare as such the demand wil l be carro ts onion s cel e ry or ce l ery seed or sa l t
, , , ,

grati f yin g to the coo k parsley and who l e m ace ; when done th e pork
.

K IDNEY B EAN S IN CR EAM — Pou l e tte e s p a g and vege tabl e s removed th e bean s and s tock , ,

n ol e o r v é l o u t é sauces T h e bean s i f c ann ed rubbed through a fi ne si eve then p l aced i n a


.
, ,

wash ed from the can l iquor ; i f d rie d they are clean saucepan season e d a l i t tl e flou r and , ,

soaked then boi led ten d er d rain ed an d r e


, wate r thickening ad d ed to p reven t coagul ation
, ,

heated in an y O f the f our sauces above m en served wi th small toas t .

tio n e d
.
H AR IC O T S O UP FAM I LY STYLE — Prepared ,

K IDN EY B EAN S GER M AN S TYL E — Soaked , same as the p receding b u t i ns tead of the bean s ,
,

boil ed and d rained d ried beans or c an n ed ones bein g rubbe d th rough a si eve they are le f t
, ,

washed Off then heated and tossed i n bu t te r


, whol e i n the soup and the vege table s and pork , ,

season ed wi th sal t a n d peppe r wi th a l i t tl e cu t u p very sma ll re turned to th e soup and ,

sum mer savoury ; a f e w sal ted herri ngs sk in ned served wi th i t alon g wi th smal l toas t , .

boned a n d cu t in to smal l pieces ei ther m ixed B E AN P UR E E W IT H O N I ON S — I s the purée


,

wi th th e beans or served as a garn ish t o them


, above bu t considerabl e on ion s boile d i n the .

K IDN EY B EAN S F REN C H S TYLE —Soaked , s toc k and rubbed th rough the sieve w i th the , ,

boiled and d rained d ried bean s or cann ed ones beans ( called purée of beans 5 1a S oubi se )
, , , ,
.

washed Off a li t tle minced on ion an d garlic H AR IC O T B E AN S C RE AM S AUC E


, Co l d ,

l igh tl y fried in O l ive oil to a gol den b rown co l or boiled harico t bean s wi th a flavoring O f sal t ,

O il pou red Off bean s pu t i n wi th some chopped


, pork m i xed i n to a whi te c rea m onion sauce , ,

parsley tosse d toge th er w i th the on ion s th en


, seasoned wi th n u tmeg m ade ho t bu t no t r e , , ,

moi s tened wi th v é l o u té sauce brough t to the boile d ,


.

boil season ed a n d served R E D H AR I C O T B E AN S — Are mos t l y use d as


K I D N EY B E AN S E N GL I S H ST Y LE — T h e
.
,

,
a garn i ture to sal t l eg o f boiled pork T hey are .

cooked bean s season ed wi th sal t pepper and


,
soa k e d boiled wi th the po rk d rained placed
, , , ,

bu t ter spri nk l e d wi th choppe d parsley an d


,
in a saucepan whi te w i ne a d d ed then reduce d , ,

S erved .
to a gl a ze wi th a l a d le of c on somme ; serve d
K I D N EY B E AN S PA N A C H E S — T h e word ,
wi th the pork i n conj unc ti on w i th smal l gla ze d
panaches means m i xe d Cold cooke d k idney on ion s
beans mi xe d wi th equal par ts of c ol d cooked B L AC K BEAN S WIT H R I S S OT O —T h e bean s
. .

n avy o r l i ma beans are h ea ted wi th a l i t t l e soake d and boil ed wi th b acon ; when d one the
, ,

bu t ter and season e d w i th sal t pepper choppe d


,
bacon cu t up s mal l an d mi xe d wi th the d rained
, ,

parsley and se rve d Ano th er m ix ture i s made . beans th en moi s ten ed wi th S pani sh sauce , ,

O f equal par ts o f cold coo k ed s tring bean s ( green ) seasoned w i th anchov y bu t te r m ade h o t agai n ,

a n d wax beans ( yellow ) and served garnished wi th r i s s o to


H AR IC OT BE AN S B O STON STY L E — M o re G R EE N AN D WA X B E AN S —Are best sui ted
. .

,
T H E CU L I N A R Y H AN DB O OK .

for cu l inary use when served as a plai n v e ge B OI L E D C O RN ED B EE F—T h e h i e a t pu t to


'

tabl e boiled i n sal ted wa te r wi th th e cove r of boi l i n cold wa te r scu m tak en o ff as i t rises , ,

the saucepan O F F The bean s have th e s trings . then allowed to si mmer t ill ten d er ( abou t four
remove d then sh red o r cu t ac ross ; wh en boile d
, , hou rs ) served i n slice s wi th c abbage parsn ips , ,

d rain e d moistene d wi th a li t tle con somm e and


, ,
ca rro ts some ti mes wi th al l th ree vege tables ;
,

season e d wi th sal t pepper and bu t ter ( ti me o f , , al so wi th sue t dumpli ngs ; some ti mes wi th a
boiling 1 5 to 3 5 minu tes according to age ) . b ro wn sauce and garn ish ed wi th b russel s
B EE F — For cul i n ary purposes i s O f t wo k inds sp rou t s
S PI C E D B EEF —A whol e flank of beef wi th
.
,

th e s teer a n d the c ow S teer beef i s superio r .

and th e flesh should b e o f a b righ t r ed m arble bones gris tl e an d in n e r skin re move d l aid ou t
, ,

wi th yellow fa t and a th ick ou tsi d e l ayer of


, fla t ou tsi d e sk i n down war d s th en rubbe d w i th
, ,

fa t un d er a fi ne grain ed s k in ; th e lean sh ou l d a mi x tu re of sal t ground pepper mace all spice , , , ,

be fi rm and elastic when pressed wi th th e fi n g clove s and gi nge r ; roll ed u p and tied then pu t ,

e rs ; the sue t sh o ul d be d ry a n d c rum b l e easily . to soak for ten days wi th so me p ic k l e from the
C o w beef i s O f cl oser g rain th e fa t i s wh i te i n , corn ed beef b ri n e t o wh ic h i s a d d ed whole
s tead of yello w and the fl esh o f a d arke r red
, ,
cloves peppers all spice and bay l eaves When
, ,
.

B U LL beef i s someti mes wor k ed o ff on the to b e coo k e d i t i s ta k en from th e p ic k l e w ipe d


, ,

un wary by the pac k ing houses wh en sh ipping d r y d ippe d i n fa t tha t i s n ear coo l so as to take
,

t o dis tan t ci ties especiall y so i n the for m O f


, on a good coating then rolle d i n a dough made ,

tenderloins ; i t i s large c oarse very dark in , , o f plain fl ou r an d wate r placed i n a me d iu m ,

color and unfi t for tabl e use


, . oven and sl o w ly baked ( five to si x hours ) I f .

B EE F a l a M ODE — An y p iece of sol id beef ,


to b e serve d h ot cu t i n sl ice s and serve wi th ,

p refe rabl y th e S il versi d e O f the roun d i s larded ,


piquan te sauce and garn ish wi th sm al l c u t v e g e
wi th seasoned s trips of l ar d ing por k then l aid ,
tabl es I f to be served cold as i s g en erall y
.
,

i n d ilu te vinegar con tain ing sl ices O f carro t ,


don e th e d ough i s l e f t on til l thoroughly col d
, ,

turn ips and on ion s wi th whole spices for sev ,


or til l t o be serve d ; even f o r a mon th i t wil l
era l h ou rs I t i s then ta k en ou t and qu ickly
. n o t spoil i f th e dough i s n o t d is turbe d S e rve d .

roasted i n oven to ge t the ou tside seare d then ,


cold i n thi n sl ices garn ished wi th p ickles .

placed i n saucepan covered wi th a piquan te ,


A L L S AL T C O R N E D O R S M O KE D M E AT S
,

sauce l id O f saucepan pu t o n then gen tl y si m


, ,
IF S I M M E RE D T I L L D O NE I N S TEA D ,

mered till ten d e r ; served in sl ices wi th a gar O F Q U IC K B OI L IN G and all owed to cool i n ,

n ish of braised vege tables and some o f the the water they were si mme red i n will be foun d ,

sauce i t was cooked i n ( al so ca ll ed po t roas t , ,


"
alway s more j uicy and ten d e r and capable of ,


an d sour po t l onger k eeping .

B EE F S T EW GE R M AN STYLE — Cold beef


,
D R IE D B E E F— The th ick fl ank i s the p ar t ge n
a l a m ode i s c u t i n to s mal l pieces a n d h ea ted i n e r a l l y used ; divided l eng thwi se i n i ts n atural

a sour sauce ; served garn i shed w i th po ta to sec tio n i t i s pu t i n a pic k le of sal t sal tpe t re
, , ,

pancakes .
sugar an d molasses f o r t wo wee k s then hung
B EEF R OAS T — Pre f e rably the set or seven ribs
,

, up and smoke d l i k e hams ( al so cal led s moked ,

f rom the sh oulder t o the l oi n i s for h otel use . bee f ) .

T h e l ower e n d o f the r ibs called S H O R T R I B S , ,


C H I PPE D B EE F I N C R E A M —Ve ry thi n sl ices
shoul d be roas ted w i th an o ther pan over th e or sh avi ngs O f d ried bee f bl anched d rained , , ,
'
t op SO a s to become more j uicy and tender and mixed i n to c rea m sauce o r re d uced c ream
SC RA M B L E D B EE F W I TH EG G S —
.
,

than by roas ting the m O pen T h e usual a e com . Ver y th i n ~

p a n i m e n t to roas t beef i s some O f the p an or sl ice s of d ried bee f agai n c u t i n to s tri ps l i k e ,

d ish gravy wi th a s l i c e O f Yorkshi re pu d d ing ,


shor t m atches blanched d rain ed m i xed w i th
, , ,

whil e for the s h o r t r ib s a l i t tle g ra te d horse beaten eggs and a l i t tl e m ilk sc ramble d a roun d ,

ra d ish a n d b rowned po tatoes i s bes t . i n a pan wi th a l i t tl e bu t te r t il l eggs a re se t ,

B O I L E D B EEF— T h e best pieces for boi ling se rve d e i ther plain o r on toast , .

are the flan k bri sk e t and sh or t ribs they


, , ,
FR I Z Z LE D B EE F O N T OAS T — Very th in sl i
S hould be boiled tender wi th a fl avoring O f veg ces O f d ried bee f blanch ed d raine d then , , ,

e tables and served wi th h orsera d ish sauce


, ,
tossed wi th f ro th ing bu t ter over a qu ic k fi re ;
cream sauce and car rot s o r sue t dumpl ing s o r ,
serve d on toast .

m ixe d vege tables such as c arro t tu rn ip on ion , , ,


S M O KED B EE F WIT H S PIN AC H D ried
cabbage a n d po ta to . beef pu t t o boi l i n cold wate r scu m tak en o ff ,

C O R N E D B EE F —Fl ank sho r t ribs bri s k e t o r , ,


as i t ri ses then si mmere d t ill ten d e r ; serve d i n
,

rump of beef i s pu t t o soak i n b rin e made o f sl ices on a b e d of sp inach .

t wen ty fiv e poun d s o f sal t t wel ve ounces o f


-
,
S M O KE D B E EF S AN DWI C H E S Very th i n
rock sal tpe tre t wo poun d s O f sugar a n d fi f teen
,
sl ices of d ried bee f pl aced on th in sl ices o f bu t
gal lon s o f water al l boile d toge ther s k imme d
, , , t e r e d b rown b rea d rolled u p l i k e fi nge rs ,
.

cool ed the bee f then pu t i n wi th a c ove r on


, B R IS KE T O F B E E F WI T H VE GE TAB LE S
an d a weigh t on th a t t o keep th e bee f un d e r — Lean b ri s k e t of beef boned placed i n sauce
s ,

the b rine ( ready fo r u s e i n a week to t e n d a ys ) p a n w i t h carro t on ion s turn ip celery parsley


' ‘
'

, .
, , , , ,
T H E C U LIN ARY H AN D B O OK . I I

thyme bay leaves whol e cl oves and mace


,
to glaze the mea t served in sl ices wi th a l i t tl e
, , ,

covere d wi th s tock saucepan cove r pu t on o f the gla ze a n d garn i she d wi th sauer k rau t a n d
, ,

si mmere d ti l l tender taken u p and place d on smal l shape d potatoes boile d a n d sprin k le d
,

bakin g pan l i ttle gravy pou re d ove r pu t i n


,
wi th parsley bu tter ( called B R AI SED B EEF , ,

quick oven til l gravy has gl aze d the mea t ; a l A L L E M AN D E )



.

served i n sl ices wi th gl aze d vege tabl e s a n d B RA I S ED S I R L O IN O F B EEF G ARN I S H ED ,

brown sauce .
— T h e b raised si rl oin of the prece d ing bu t the ,

FLAN K O F B EE F E N GL IS H S T YLE — Lean caraway seeds omi t ted i n the season i ngs ; wh en
,

flan k Of bee f th a t has been i n corn e d bee f b rine don e i s se rved i n s l ices a n d garn ished wi th
for a fe w d ays i s washe d then pu t to boi l i n ,
s toned ol ives mushroom s t ru ffles coc k scombs , , , ,

col d wa te r wi th carro ts on ion s a n d celery ; and kernels green peas a n d sm al l pi eces o f , , ,

a f te r co ming to th e boil ski mme d then sim swee tbrea d s al l m a d e h o t i n th e gla ze wi th th e


, , ,

mered till tender ta k en u p a n d gl azed i n oven , ad d i tio n o f a l i t tl e E spagnol e sauce ( cal l e d ,

l ike th e p rece d ing serve d i n sl ices wi th a sue t BR AI S E D B EE F a l a FIN ANC I E RE )


,
.

d umpl in g b russel s sp rou ts shaped p iece o f B RAI SE D B EE F W ITH R AVI O LI S —T o


, ,
p si r
car ro t and turnip a boil e d on i on a n d some l oi n Of beef lar d e d pu t i n sauce pan w i th car
, ,
,

piquan te sauce pou re d a round rot on ion s cele ry thy me bay l eaves c l oves .
, , , , , ,

G L A Z E D R I B S O F B EE F WIT H M AC AR allspice garl ic clare t win e an d en ough con , ,

O N I f L e a n shor t ribs O f bee f l ar d e d th rough somme to barel y cove r t h e mea t si mmered t ill ,

th e l ean wi th season ed s t rips o f l ard ing por k ; tende r and gla zy t aken up l iquo r s traine d , , ,

pu t i n sauce pan wi th carro t o n ion cele ry ski m med and reduced to a gla ze ; mea t serve d , , ,

parsley whol e cloves and m ace w i th a l i t tle


, in slice s wi th so m e of th e gl az e and garn ished
garl ic covere d wi th con somme and she rry wine
, wi th smal l m ol ds O f boiled m acaron i sprinkled ,

c ove r pu t on then si mmere d t il l tende r meat


, wi th P a r m e r s an ch eese and smal l raviol is ,
,

then taken up the l iquor s t raine d s k i m med


,
( calle d B R A I S E D B EE F a l a M IL AN AI SE ) , ,
,
.

and reduce d hal f of wh ich i s taken t o mois ten B R AISED S I R L O I N O F B EE F WI T H Q UE


,

some boile d and d rai ned macaron i m ixed w i th N ELL E S —T o p si r l oi n l ar d ed an d b raise d wi th ,

gra te d Parmesan cheese T h e beef served i n vege tables spices an d con som me ; se rved i n
.

por tions garn ishe d wi th th e m acaron i and a


,
sl ices an d garnished wi th a ragou t of small ,

spoon f u l O f th e remain in g gla z e pou red over q uenell es of poul try o r ga m e cock sco mbs and - ,

th e meat ( call e d B R AI SED BEE F a la


,
kernel s and sl ices O f b raised poul try l ivers
,

P I E M ON T A I SE )
,
.

( calle d B R AI S E D B EEF a l a R IC H E LIE U ) .

G LA Z E D R I B S O F B EE F W IT H V E G E ,

T AB LE S — T h e l ean shor t rib s Of beef cooked


B R AI SE D S I R L O I N O F B EEF W I T H M U S H
R O O M S — T op si rloi n l ar d ed and b rai sed wi th
sam e as i n the prece d ing receip t serve d in por ,

tion p ieces garn i shed wi th gl a ze d shapes o f vege tables spice s an d con somme ; mea t tak en ,
,

up when don e the l iquor s traine d and s k i mme d


carro t tu rni p on i on s an d ar tichok es w i th a
, , ,
, ,

l i t tl e o f the gl aze poured ove r the meat ( call e d sherry wi ne a n d Espagnol e sauce added to i t ;
, ,
mea t served i n sl ice s garn ishe d wi th f ried
B RAI SED BEE F a l a B O U R G E O I SE ) ,

m
.

G L A Z E D R IB S O F BEEF WI TH P OTAT O mushroo s an d sauce poured around ,


.

C R OQ UE T T E S — L ean shor t ribs o f beef B R AI S E D S IR L O I N O F BEE F WI TH T R U F


FLE S — T o p si rloi n l ar d e d a n d braise d meat
larde d th rough th e l ean wi th s tri ps Of season ed ,

k
l ar d in g por ; pu t i n a sauce p an wi th a few taken up w hen d on e the l iquor strai ned s k im , ,

med M adei ra win e a d d e d t o i t an d re d uced ;


shallots hal f a cup of f resh gra te d horseradi sh
, ,
,

parsl ey and g reen on ion s the mea t barely c o v mea t serve d i n slices garnished
,
wi th a ragou t ,

e re d wi th con som me t o wh ich i s a d ded a bo t tl e of t ru ffles di c e d swee t b rea d s and smal l veal , ,

o f R hin e wine then si mmered t il l tende r a n d


,
quen elles ( calle d B RAI SED BEEF a l a G O D ,

glazy ; when d on e m ea t taken u p th e l iquor AR D ) .


, ,

st rain ed and s k i mme d l i t tl e red curran t j elly B R AI S E D S I R L OIN WITH R IC E C R O



,

and gra te d orange rin d a d ded t o i t a n d re d uced ; Q U E TTE S T o p si rloi n l arded an d braise d ,

the mea t serve d i n p ortion cu ts wi th a l i ttl e o f meat taken up l iquor st rained a n d re d uced to ,
,

th e glaz e pou re d ove r and garn ished w i th p o a glaze mea t served i n sl ices wi th some of the
, ,

tato c roque t te m ix tu re rolled in to small bal ls glaz e pou red aroun d a n d garn ished wi th smal l ,
,

dipped i n bea ten eggs then i n flou r a n d frie d c roque t te s of rice tha t h ave been seasoned wi th
,

very quickl y i n ho t fa t ( call ed B R AI SED savory herbs a n d meat glaze ( calle d B R AI SE D ,


, ,

BE E F a l a BADEN — B EE F a l O R S I N I ) ’

B ADEN ) .
.

B RA I SE D BEEF GE R M AN S TYLE — A top B RAIS E D S I R L O IN W I TH SPRI N G V E G E


,

sirloi n of beef lard ed slan twise wi th s trips o f TAB L E S —T o p si rl oin l ar d ed an d b rai se d ,

season ed lar d ing pork pu t i n sauce pan wi th t aken u p when d one l iquor s trained sk i mmed
, , ,

car ro t on ion s celery parsley bay l eaves a n d


, . a n d red uced to a glaze ; m ea t served i n sl ices
, ,

a few cara w ay s ee d s b arely covered wi th stock wi th i t and garn i she d wi th gla zed carro t on ion
, , , ,

an d si mmere d ti ll tende r and glazy then taken b ru ssel s sprou ts an d red or green cabbage , ,

up the l iquo r s traine d sk im med a n d reduce d


, ( calle d B R AIS E D BEE F a l a FL AM AN D E )
, ,
12 T H E C U L I N ARY H AND B O OK .

BR AISE D S IRLO I N W I TH S T UFFE D P O [ I t i s op tiona l wi th the cook whe the r h e add s


T AT O E S— T o p sir l oin l arded and braise d , asparagus poin ts and sm al l flo w e r e t s o f caul iflower
ta k en u p when done l iquo r s t rained ski m med , , , t o the above groups o f vege tables i t i s s til l a ,

a n d re d uced t o a gla ze ; mea t se rve d i n sl ices si mple garn i ture O f vegetables appropria te to ,

wi th i t and garn ishe d w i th po ta toes tha t have


, ei ther brai sed or roaste d tenderloin un d e rs too d ,

been cu t ou t wi th th e larges t si ze po ta to scoop , b y th e gues t when wri t ten i n plai n Engl ish a n d ,

cen t re ta k en ou t o f th e pota toes wi th a co l umn o f ten uncalled for and consequen tl y l ef t ove r

cu tter bl anched d rained th e h ol e s fi lled wi th
, , , when the a l a i s a t tach e d Any o f th e fore .

a savory force m ea t then baked t i l l done and , going garni tures given to b rai sed si rl oin s apply ,

b rown wi th bu t ter ( cal l ed B R AI SE D B EEF , , equally t o b rai sed ten d erloin s O f bee f a n d n ee d
a l a B I G N ON N E ) . n o t be repea ted u n d er th e head ing o f tender l oin ;
B RA I SE D S I R L O I N WI T H H OR S E R ADIS H al so t h e vege tabl e garn i tures above gi ven are
— T op si rloin l arded a n d b raise d t aken u p ,
equall y appropri ate t o brai se d si rloin s o f beef ] .

when done the l iquor s train ed ski m med a n d


, ,
TE N DERL OI N OF B EE F S AU C E B E AR ,

added to i t i s E spagn ole sauce red cu rran t ,


N AI SE —T enderloin t ri mmed a n d l arded i s
j elly horseradish gra ted l ean h am p or t w in e
.
, ,
ei ther braised or roas ted wi th vege tables ; serve d
and Harvey sauce ; i t i s then rapi d l y bo ile d i n sl ices wi th B e arnaise sauce .

d o w n to gl a ze ; m e a t se rved i n sl ices wi th some TE N DE R L O I N O F B E E F W ITH C U S T A RD S


of the sauce an d garn i shed wi th s teamed ar ti
,
— Ten d erl oi n l ar d e d a n d e i ther b rai sed o r
chok e b o t tom s fi ll ed wi th g ra te d fresh horse
, roasted wi th vege tables se rve d i n sl ices wi th a ,

rad ish ( called B R A I SE D B EE F a la N AP OL


, , hal f gla ze con tain ing M adeira o r M al aga wine .

I T AI N E ) . Garn ished wi th slice s o r s mall mol d s O f c us


B R AI SE D S I R L OIN W I T H S T U FFED T O t a r d s m a d e o f s ti rre d yol k s O f eggs m ixed wi th
M AT OES — T o p si rl oi n l ar d e d an d b rai se d . ve ry smal l cu t vege tables O f various col ors a n d
taken u p when d one th e l iq uor s train ed s k i m , ,
"
a l i t tl e con somm e ; thi s vege ta b l e cus tard i s “

med an d m ixe d w i th E spagn ole sauce m ince d


, , then pou red in to a pan or smal l m ol d a n d
frie d m ush rooms a nd sherry win e then rapidly , pl ace d in a pan con tain ing water then wi th a , ,

re d uced to a gla ze ; t h e m ea t serve d i n sl ices sh ee t o f bu t tered pape r ove r the m ol d the pa n ,

wi th so me of t he sauce and garn ishe d wi th , i s pu t i n the Ove n and th e c ustard cooke d ,

s tu ff ed tomatoes a n d s tu ff ed gla ze d on ions ,


( call e d FI L E T a l a T ALLEYR AN D )
,
.

( calle d B R AI SE D B EEF a l a P R O VE N CA L E )
, TEN DER LO IN O F B EE F WIT H C E PE S
TEN DER L OIN O F B EE F WI T H M U S H Tende rloin tri m med l arde d and ei ther braise d
R O O M S — Tenderloi n roas ted wi th some sl ice d
, ,

or roasted wi th vege ta b l es ; the cepes draine d


vege tab l es i n th e pan m ush rooms l igh tl y f rie d , f rom th e O i l i n the can s cu t in to sl ices l ig h t l y
, ,

i n bu t te r then pu t i n to a rich brown sauc e


, f r i ed i n bu tter ta k en u p an d adde d to a rich
,

c on tai n ing sherry wine ; th e m ea t serve d i n b rown sauce serve d wi th sl ice s of th e m ea t


,
.

sl ices a n d garni shed wi th the mush room s i n TEN DE R L OIN OF B EE F W I T H AR T I


C H O KE S — Tenderloin t ri m med l ar d ed a n d
sauce .

,
,
TEN DE R L O I N OF B EE F WIT H VE C E
e i ther brai se d or roaste d wi th vege tables served ,

T A B LE S Tender l oin tri m med l arde d a n d


-
,
i n sl ices garn ishe d wi th ar tich ok e bo t toms
,
b rai sed the l iquo r s traine d sk i m med a n d
, ,
fi lled wi th a ragou t O f t ru ffl es mush rooms a n d ,

mixed wi th a rich brown sauce con tain in g sher r y s t rips o f smok ed tongue ( called F I L LET O F ,

o r m a d ei ra wine reduced to a h al f gla ze ; car ,


B EEF a l a B AY AR D ) .

rots tu rnips and celery are cu t i n to neat pieces .


,
TEN DE R L O IN O F B EE F W I T H S TU FFE D
PEPPE R S —T ender l oi n l arded and roas ted
boiled sepa ra tely i n wh i te con som me w i th a
,
l i t tl e sugar a n d bu t ter when done s t rain ed a n d ,
se rved i n S l ices wi th a l i t tle Anda l usian sauce
mi xed toge ther wi th some F rench peas ; mea t
pou red a ro u n d and garn ished wi th a s tu ff ed
served i n sl ices wi th some of th e sauce a n d gar ,

tom ato a t on e end a n d a s tu ff ed green peppe r


h ished wi th the vege tabl es ( cal led FIL LE T ,

,
a t the othe r ( calle d F I LLE T O F B E E F a
O F B EE F a l a J AR DI N I E R E ) When the , ,
.

l AN D A L O US E )
'

vege tables are cu t in to m inu te squares a n d


.

TE NDE R L O I N S TE AK B O R D E LAI S E
d iamon d s i t i s ( calle d a n P R I N T AN I E R E ) ,
,

S teak b roiled and served wi th a b ro w n B or d e


When the vegetables are scoope d ou t wi th a
lai se sauce o r w i th some fi nel y mince d sh allo ts
me d iu m si ze d scoop i t i s ( cal le d a l a P AR IS ,
,
,

I ENN E ) When tak en ou t O f can s or cu t i n


.
garl ic and parsley frie d in oil and bu t te r wi th ,

lemon j uice added a t the fin ish ; garn ishe d wi th


ve ry s mal l fancy shapes a n d mi xed wi th French
s trin g bean s o u t sm all a n d flag e o l e t s i t i s ( called chi ps .

a l a M AC ED O I N E ) When c arrots turn ips T E N D E R L OIN S TEAK PAR I S IAN P O TA ,


.
, ,

T OE S S teak b ro i led and serve d wi th some


celery leeks and on ion s are cu t i n s trips l ike
,

matches i t i s ( called a l a J U LI E N N E ) When


,
m ai tre d h Ot e l bu t ter pou re d over i t and gar .

the Jul ienn e vege tables are m i xed wi th a H o l h ished wi th Pari si an po ta toes .

l andaise Allemande or yellow c ream sauce i t i s TEN D E RL O I N S T E A K S AU C E B E A RN A I S E ,


,

( ca l led a l a N
, I V E R N AISE ) S teak broiled .
an d served wi th B earn ai se
T H E C U L I N AR Y H AN D B O OK . I 3
sauce a t on e end and l u l i e n n e po tatoes wi th a
-
,
and t ri mmings of cele ry ; fi ll e d up wi th s trong
sprig of parsley a t the o the r . beef stock si mme red till don e s train ed a n d
, ,

FI LLET S O F B EE F WI T H S TR IN G BEAN S ski mme d ; m e an whil e celery cu t i n i nch s trips


—Tenderloi n s tea k s la rd e d on on e side broile d , , l i k e matches is fried ligh tl y in bu t ter then si m ,

served wi th F rench s tri ng bean s mad e ho t i n mered till ten d er a n d ad d e d t o the soup .

m ai tre d h ote l bu t ter a t on e end and a slice of


'
, SC OTC H B EE F S O U P— Prepa red exac tl y the
“ "
fancy toas t a t the o ther . same as Engl i sh bee f soup above excep t ,

FI LLET S O F BEE F S AU C E P R OVEN C ALE using Scotch oa tm eal ( procurable an ywhere )


—T enderloin s teak s l arde d on one side b roiled
,

, , in s tead of pearl bar l ey a n d addin g Mad ei ra ,

served wi th some p roven c al e sauce poured win e a t the fi n ish .

around the s teak and a smal l s tu ffed toma to a t B EE F B R OT H WITH R I CE —Prepared as for

,
“ ”
each end . beef bro th wi th cele ry b u t a f te r the b roth ,

T ENDE RL O I N S TE A K S AU T E ED W I T H i s s traine d a n d skim med all owed to boi l up


PEPPE R S —S teak s au teed i n bu t ter ; m ince d
, ,

agai n thick ened l igh tly wi th corn s tarch a n d


, ,

green peppe rs fried i n bu t ter d rained m i xed i h , ,


wel l washed boiled rice ad d e d wi th a seasoning
to brown sauce ser v ed around th e s teak wi th a
,
O f wal nu t ca tsup .

s tu ff ed green peppe r a t each end and some , B EE F B OU I LL O N WI T H CR U S T S — Plen ty


n ea t slices o f p i m e n to e s decorati ng the top of of col d roas t beef bones and cl ear gravy pu t
the s teak . in to the soup po t wi th some choppe d f resh bee f ,

TEN D E RLOI N S T E AK SA U CE PER I G U E U X N O S PIC E S bu t a carro t and on ion ; fi lled up


—S teak broile d served wi th sauce pe rigueux
, ,

,
wi th good beef s toc k si mmered for several ,

poured aroun d i t top of steak decorate d wi th ,


hou rs then s t raine d th rough a c o n s o mm e clo th
, ,

s l i c e s o f t ru ffl es a few chi p po ta toes a t one e n d


,
s k i mme d seasoned wi th sal t and pepper
, ,

Of the di sh a n d a fancy c r o fit o n wi th a sprig of


, served wi th smal l toas t Also se rved pl ain i n .

parsley a t the o ther e n d . cup s wi th a thi n sl ice of le mon .

H AM B U R G S TE A K WITH ON ION S — M inced O X TA I L T H I CK —P repare the “ bouillon


,

raw b e ef and on ion s seasone d wi th sal t and “

above ; ox tail s cu t i n sl ices half i nch thic k ,

pepper m ixed t h oroughly and for me d in to fla t


,
car ro ts a n d tu rnips core d ou t wi th l ar ge si zed
ball s o r s teaks f ried in bu t te r t il l don e served
, , colu mn cu tte r a n d sl iced to resembl e the tail s
ei the r plai n o r wi th a sauce . bu t thinne r al l placed wi th sl ice d on ion s in
,

T O M A T O E D H AM B U R G STE AK M ince d soup po t and fried l igh tly wi th bu t te r o r bee f


ra w beef a n d sol id mea t o f th e toma toes sea ~
d rippings flour ad d e d to form a rou x mois tene d
, ,

s o n e d wi th sal t and pepper thoroughly m ixe d wi th the boil ing bouillon si mmered til l d on e
' '

, , ,

and for med in to Steak s ; ei the r b roiled o r frie d skim med season ed wi th sal t pepper wo rc e s
, , ,

i n bu t ter ; serve d wi th toma to sauce poured t e r s h i r e sauce a n d sherry wine


a roun d .
OX TAI L C LE AR Prepare the
.

bouillon
S AL I S B U RY S TEA K WI T H G R I LLED P O above and place i t on th e fi re wi th some t ri m
T A T O E S — M inced raw bee f seasone d wi th sal t m ings of car ro t tu rnip on ion s a n d celery al so
, , ,

a n d peppe r ma d e i n to f orm o f s tea k s ei ther , th e thick a n d thi n ends O f the tai ls tha t h ave
broiled o r f ried i n bu t ter ; served garn i she d
, been previously b rowned i n the oven si m mered ,

wi th sl iced b roiled pota toes ( plai n or swee t ) til l don e then s trained a n d clarifie d the m iddle
, ,
'
a n d som e m ai tre d h Ot e l bu t te r on th e s tea k
par t Of the ox tails cu t i n sl ices wi th car ro t and
.

S ALISB U RY STE AK W I T H M U S H RO OM S tu rn i p to ma tch boiled separa tely i n consom me


,

Prepared an d cook e d same as th e p rece d ing ; till tende r a n d gl azy a d ded to th e cl ari fied ,

served wi th some f ried mush rooms a t on e en d bro th wi th sherry wine .

o f the d ish and chi p pota toes a t the o th er


, . B EE F C R OQ U ETTE S WI TH P EA S — A s t rong
E N G L I S H B EE F S O U P— Pieces of raw bee f roas t beef gravy th icken e d wi th roux a n d sea
cu t sm al l wi th carro ts turn ips on ion s a n d
, , , s o n e d wi th worcestersh ire sauce i s then reduced

cele ry cu t i n d ice pl ace d i n so u p pot wi th , t il l thic k col d roas t o r o ther cook ed b eef i s cu t
,

but ter and l igh tly fried flou r then a d d e d and , very small a n d s ti rred in to th e boil ing sauce ;
s ti rred to for m a roux mois tened wi th boi ling , when thorough l y heated through i t i s turne d
beef s tock ; when abou t h al f done pearl barley , i n to a pan abou t an inch deep smoothed w i th ,

i s washed and a d ded to the soup al so some , a kn i f e covered wi th a shee t of bu t te re d pape r


,

whol e allspice peppers cl oves thy me a n d bay


, , , and allowed to become col d then divided in to ,

l eaves tie d i n a piece of musl in ; when th e soup pieces of the si z e requi re d rolle d in to fi nger ,

is fi nishe d the spices removed seasoned wi th


, , l ength s bread ed and f ried se rve d i n t wos l ai d
, ,

worces tersh i re sauce and choppe d p a rsley . slan t wi se across the dish seasoned green peas ,

S OM E C O OK S A R E I N T H E H AB I T O F pl aced be t ween them and mush room sauce a t ,

P U TTIN G T O M ATOES I N T H I S S O U P , each end wi th c roque t te f ril l s s tuc k i n th e cro


,

WH IC H I S DEC IDEDLY WRON G .


q u e tt e s i f use d .

B E E F B R OT H WIT H C E LE RY — I n to the soup BEEF C OLLOPS WI T H M U S H R OOM S


po t i s placed plen ty o f roas t beef bones a n d
-
C old cooked beef is trim me d an d cu t in c ircles
c l ear grav y W i th sl ices of car ro t on i ons root s , ,
-~
si z e o f a d ol l ar bu t thic k e r made ho t i n a t hic k ,
1 4 T H E C U LI N A RY H AN D B O OK .

rich beef gravy ; served overlapping each o the r b rown ) wi th vege tabl es serve d wi th a dumpl ing ,

d own t h e cen t re o f the d ish wi th some frie d , and sp rin k le d wi th parsley ; o r the s te w placed
mush room s i n sauce do wn bo th sides a n d a , in a pan so f t dumpl ing m ix ture d ropped i n
,

f ancy c r o fito n a t each end T h i s d i sh may also .


pieces al l over i t pu t i n oven a n d ba k e d ; or ,

be se rved wi th a garn ish Of green peas k i d n ey , the s tew lef t i n the saucepan d u mpl in g s pu t in , ,

bean s F rench s t ring bean s m ixe d vege tables


, , ,
cover pu t on then gen tl y sim mere d t il l d ump
,

small quenelles o r f anc y po ta toes .


l ings are c oo k e d .

BEE F C AKE S WITH E G G — C ol d c ooke d bee f B EE F PA U P I ETTE S M US H R OO M S AU C E ,

— Th i n sl ices O f col d cook ed bee f tri m med to


mince d a n d season ed wi th sal t a n d po wdere d ,

savory mois tened sligh tl y wi th roas t bee f gravy


, ,
shape of envel ope wi th the flap open spread ,

ma d e i n to cakes l i k e H ambu rg s teak s pl ace d ,


wi th a coo k e d f orcemeat c ompose d o f m inced
i n pan wi th a gl a z y gravy pou re d ove r them ; bacon chopped parsl ey g ra te d lemon rin d
, , ,

when thoroughl y heated se rved wi th a poache d ,


sal t peppe r and savory h erb s rol le d u p f rom
, ,

egg on top and some th ic k roast beef gravy


,
the broad end to the poi n t this pin ne d wi th a ,

pou red around .


toothpic k dipped in a thin ba t ter a n d frie d
, ,

BEE F C U TLETS WI T H P I Q U AN TE S AU C E too thpic k then removed ; served wi th a rich


—T he

beef croque t te m ix ture above wh en ” mush roo m sauce poured around
S C AL L OPE D B EE F WIT H OY S TE R S —S mall
.

col d formed i n the shape O f veal chops using a ,

piece o f m acaron i to i mi ta te th e bone ; when pieces O f bee f al read y m ad e ten d er i n a brown


shape d rolled i n fl our then d ippe d i n beaten
, ,
s te w seasoned wi th anchovy essence ; oysters
egg and fried i n ho t d ri pping ; served wi th scal d ed and m i xe d wi th the s te w pl ace d in ,

Piquan te sauce poured arou n d .


scall op shell s o r dishes sprin k led wi th b read ,

B EEF R I S S O LE S —C old cooked beef m ince d c rumb s a n d Parmesan cheese bak e d i n Oven ,

three par ts g ra ted brea d c rumbs on e par t and serve d


D EVI LLE D B EE F WI TH O Y S TE R S — C old
.

, ,

m ixed a n d seasone d wi th her b s g rated l emon ,

rin d sal t an d pepper boun d wi th raw yol k s o f


, ,
cook e d ten d er bee f c u t i n fi nger leng th s an i nch
eggs made in to shapes and si ze o f eggs b rea d ed wi d e a n d half i nch thic k lai d i n a m ix ture of ,

sal t pepper ol ive oil a n d W o r c e r t e r s h i r e sauce


, ,

and frie d ; served wi th a m ound o f mashed p o , ,

t a to e s in the cen t re o f dish a ri ssole a t each f o r an hou r then l igh tl y frie d i n b u t ter sprink
, ,
,

e n d and side wi th some thickene d roas t bee f l e d wi th parsley ; served o n sl ices o f bu t tered
,

g ravy pou red aroun d a n d a sprig of parsl ey pu t ,


toas t same si ze as th e m e a t al te rnately wi th
in to the pota toes T hi s d ish may also be se rve d
.
broiled oys te rs a n d D iable sauce pou red ,

wi th k i d ney bean s g reen peas French s tring around .

C U RR IE D B EEF WITH R I C E —E i ther raw or


, ,

bean s o r m i xe d vege tables i ns tead O f the pota


toes .
cook ed bee f rol le d i n fl ou r then f rie d i n bu t ter ,

B EEF R I S S O L E T T E S — S a m e as the prece d ing wi th m inced on ion s ; wh e n l igh tly b rowned pu t ,

bu t ma d e smaller served a n d garnished the ,


i n sauce pan wi th bu t te r fl ou r and curry pow ,

same way .
der stirre d and m ois tened wi th whi te s tock
, ,

B EE F P ATTI E S W ITH M U S H R O O M S —C ol d boil e d up ski mme d then si m m ered wi th the


, ,

c ooked ten d er beef cu t i n to small d ice m i xe d ,


a d d i ti on o f a g ra ted g reen appl e l emon j uice ,

a n d a l i t tle chu tney ; when d one the m ea t r e


and m ade h o t i n a rich brown mush room sauce ,
,

fi lled in to pat ty shel ls ; se rve d wi th some fried move d to anothe r saucepan a n d the sauce ,

mush room s i n sauce pou re d around .


s train ed ove r i t ; served wi th a border of dry
B EE F S TE AK AND M U S H R O OM PI E b oile d rice .

Pieces of raw bee f cu t abou t an i nch square M INC E D B E E F WI T H EG G — E i ther m inced


th ree parts bu t ton mu sh rooms ( f resh or can o r fi nely c u t cold cooked bee f season e d wi th
,

n ed ) on e par t m ixe d ; ba k ing d i sh l ine d on the savory herbs sal t a n d pepper i s ma d e ho t i n


,
,

sides wi th shor t pas te m ea t a n d mush rooms rich roas t beef gravy j us t enough to moisten ,
,

pu t i n wi th a l i t tl e flou r sal t pepper a m ince d ,


the mea t only being used ; serve d wi th a f ancy
, ,

on ion a n d savory herbs fi lle d up wi th water to borde r of mashed po tatoes the mince i n the ,
,

j us t cover th e meat top crus t pu t on bru shed cen t re a n d a poached egg on top of the m in ce
,
.

R OAS T B EE F H AS H — M inced on ion l igh tl y


, ,

ove r wi th bea t en egg and m il k pu t in sl ow oven ,

a n d gen tl y b ake d .
frie d i n bu t ter a d ded to fi nel y cu t roast beef
B E E F STE AK AND OYSTER PIE — Sam e as t wo par ts and m inced col d po ta toes on e part
,
,

th e preced ing bu t om i t tin g the mushrooms a n d


,
m i xe d toge t her seasone d wi th sal t pepper and ,

using scal d ed oyster l iquor ins tea d o f water ; powd ered marj oram wi th a ve ry l i t tle roas t
when to be serve d a f e w bl anched oys ters k ep t ,
bee f g ravy ; the whol e then tossed toge ther ,

hot i n a brown sauce place d wi th each por tion .


placed i n a pan a n d baked ; or kep t i n a sauce
B EE F S TE AK AN D KIDN EY P I E — S ame as pan over a slo w fire ti ll thorough l y hea ted ; o r

beef s tea k a n d mush room pie bu t using pieces "
portion s pu t in to a frying pan brown ed on bo th ,

of b l anche d beef kidney in s tead of the m ush si d es then formed i n to shape O f an ome l et ;
,

rooms . se rved ei ther wi th or wi thou t a fried or poached


B E EF P OT P I E — A rich beef s tew ( wh i te or egg and wi th a c r o d to n a t ends of dish
,
.
1 6 T H E C U LI N AR Y H AN D B OOK .

C OR N ED B EEF T ON G U E WI T H SP IN AC H cen tre o f the di sh garn ishe d al te rn ately wi th ,

— T h e tongue pu t to boi l i n col d wate r a n d the vege tables th e w h ole sp rin k led wi th chop
,

si m mere d t ill tende r taken up skinn e d and , , ,


ped p arsley .

k ep t i n ho t bro th ; serve d in sl ices on a bed o f C U R R I E D OX TAI L S WITH S PAGH ETTI


spinach wi th some E spagn ole sauce pou red The tails cu t in to sec tion s a t th e j oin ts f ried ,

aroun d B russel s sp rou ts or a j ard in iere or


.
,
wi th on ions i n a saucepan till on ion s are of a
mace d oin e of v ege tabl es for m an appropri ate ,
golden color flour and curry powder ad d e d
, ,

garn i ture to boile d corne d ton gue also the '


shaken toge the r then mois tened wi th s toc k , ,

tongue serve d pl ain wi th ei ther r a i s m or Hol si mmered till ten d er mean wh ile a d din g to the ,

l an d ai se sauce . sauce a gra te d green apple j uice Of a l emon ,

B OI LE D BE E F H EAR T WIT H H OR S E R A a n d some chu tney ; when don e the tails tak en ,

D I S H —T he hear t washe d and f reed f rom blood ,


up i n to anoth er saucepan and the sauce s traine d
boiled til l ten d er i n whi te s toc k wi th whol e over them ; serve d wi th a bor d e r o f boile d spag
mace carro t a n d on ion s ; served i n slice s wi th
,
he t ti cu t in inch p ieces seasone d wi th Pa r me ,

horsera d i sh sauce pou re d around and garn ishe d ,


san cheese .

w i th a s mal l whi te turn ip h oll owed ou t s teame d , ,


B EE F S AU SAGE S — L ean a n d fa t raw bee f
a n d fill ed wi th gra te d horsera d i sh or th e tur ,
t ri m min gs two th i r d s soak e d s tal e bread th at
-
,

n ip m ay be boil e d wi th a l i t tl e c a rmi ne i n th e i s squee ze d d r y on e thi r d the mea t i s pu t -


,

wate r giving i t a re d d i sh colo r


, .
th rough th e chopping m achin e then mixe d ,

R OA S T B EE F H E A R T S T UF FED —T h e hear t ,
wi th the bread and seasone d wi th sal t pepper , ,

prepare d a n d boil e d ti ll ten d e r as above ; ta k en sage thym e and a l i t tl e f arin a the whole i s
, ,
,

up d rai ned th e cavi ties cu t ou t a n d th e space then pu t th rough th e mach ine again ; when i t
, ,

fi lle d wi th a sage a n d on ion s tu ffing pl ace d i n h as all passe d through cold wa te r i s adde d to
,

pan wi th b rown sauce pou re d over i t a n d bak e d the d esi re d s tiff ness t h e kn ife taken f rom th e ,

til l glazy ; serve d i n sl ices on a b e d of the s tu ff mach in e fill e r sc rewe d on ; the sal ted sk in s
,

i ng wi th some sauce pou re d aroun d and gar havin g been so f tene d i n wate r are blown and ,
,

h ishe d wi th po ta to ball s a t on e e n d a n d F rench


d rawn on to the fi ll er m eat pl ace d i n the m a ,

bean s a t the other chi ne the sk in s filled a n d tied


,
.

SA U S AG E C AKES W IT H P OT AT O E S —T h e
.

B E E F K I D N EY S AU T E —T h e k id n eys cu t i n
smal l pieces pu t to boil i n col d wa ter when sausage mea t pu rch ased or m ade as i n the pre
, ,

bl anched poure d i n to col an d e r wash e d a n d ce d ing recipe forme d in to round cak es an d


, ,
, ,

d rain e d then l igh tl y f rie d i n bu t ter sprin k le d ei the r f ri ed or arrange d i n a bak ing pan a n d .

, ,

wi th flour m ois ten e d wi th s toc k si mm ere d t ill bak e d t ill done ; serve d on a b e d of mashe d p o
, ,

ten d er season ed wi th sal t pepper a n d lem on t a t o e s wi th a l i t tle brown gravy poure d around .

B EET S —A r e of th ree col ors a n d kin d s red wh i te


, ,

j uice ; se rve d wi th a bor d er o f po tatoes on the ,

d ish ki d n eys i n the cen tre spri n k led wi th a n d yellow ; th e wh i te i s mos tl y used in p ro d uc
, ,

chopped pa rsl ey .
in g bee t sugar th e r e d for cul inary purposes
, ,

B EE F K I D N EY S O U P — T h e k i d n eys o u t sm all a n d the yel low for feedin g cat tl e .

a n d prepare d the same way as



k i d ney sau té .
"
B EET G R E EN S — T h e l eaves o f the young bee ts
T h e soup ma d e o f th in E spagn ol e th e ki dneys ,
a re washe d pu t to boil in boiling sal ted water
, ,

and th ei r sauce added a t the fi n ish ; served wi th con tain ing a small p iece o f common wash ing
s mal l toas t .
sod a ; when done they are s trained presse d , , ,

B R AISE D OX TA I LS WI T H KIDN EY B EAN S cu t up fi ne season e d wi th sal t peppe r a n d


, ,

—T h e th ic k e n d of th e tail i s cu t i n to por tion bu t ter ; served as a vege tabl e or a f ter being ,

p ieces a n d pl ace d i n sa u cepan wi th carro t p ressed they m ay b e rubbed through a fi ne


,

on ion s celery bay leaves thy me a n d parsl ey sieve a n d the purée th us ob tain ed season ed
, ,
, , , ,

cove re d wi th s toc k and si m mere d ti ll ten d e r and served th e same as spin ach .

a n d glaz y then tak en up th e liquor s t rain e d


, , ,
PI C KLE D B EE T S — The small s moo th bee ts
ski mme d and ad ded to a M a d eira sauce pou re d ,
washe d and boil ed tl l l tender skinned cu t i n , ,

O ve r the tail s ; serve d wi th a bor d e r o f g reen


th in sl ices pl aced i n a c roc k seasone d wi th
, ,

k i d ney bean s and a fancy c r o fi t o n a t each end


,
sal t peppe r sugar bay leaves and cove re d
, , , ,

o f d i sh .
wi th vinega r .

H AR I C OT O F O X TAI L S —T h e tail s cu t i n to B O I LE D BE E TS I N B U TTE R S A U CE — S mall "

pieces a t the n atural j oi n ts f r ie d wi th on ion s ,


n ew bee ts wa s hed and boiled till d one s k inned , ,

in a saucepan t il l on ion s are Of a golden color ,


cu t i n sec tions l i k e those of an orange pl aced ,

flou r a d d e d to for m a roux mois tene d wi th ,


i n to the serving croc k and a sauce compose d ,

s toc k all owe d to si m me r for an hou r s k i mmed


, , ,
O f wa ter bu t te r sal t wh i te pepper a n d vin e
, , ,

turn ips a n d c arrots o u t abou t si ze o f t h e j oin ts gar thic k ene d wi th flo u r poure d over them
,
.

are then ad d e d and si m me red ano ther hou r , ,


BEET S F O R G A R N I S H IN G — Th e pickle d bee ts
t hen small po tatoes of an even si ze are added ; above le f t whole a n d c u t in to th e for m of flo w
when th ey are d on e season wi th sal t pepper , ,
ers e tc or the sl ices cu t or s tamped wi t h fancy
,
.
,

an d wa l nu t c a t sup ; serve d the tai ls in th e ,


cu t ters .
T H E C U L I N AR Y H AN D B O O K .

B EE T AN D P OTAT O S ALAD —S mal l ball s of to i t the requi red amou n t of good whi te b roth ,

cooked bee ts placed i n tarragon vi negar ; smal l brin g to a boil a d d th e mea t cu t up f ro m the
,

ball s of boiled po ta toe s placed i n R avigote tail s a n d cla ws a l i t tle l obster coral a n d serve
,

sauce ; se rved by arranging the m al tern atel y on wi th smal l toas t .

the d i sh . B IS Q U E O F H E R R IN G — E q u a l par ts O f fresh


BEET AND E G G S AL AD — Slices O f pick l ed and smoked he rrings are boned sk inn e d a n d ,

bee troot a n d hard boile d eggs arranged al ter , boiled wi th fresh o r cann ed l obs ter i n sea s oned
n a te l y around a dish wi th some pic k led whi te , fi sh s toc k ; when done i t i s rubbed th rough a ,

on ion s i n the cen t re ; se rved wi th cream salad sieve ; the purée then a d d ed to a clarifi e d fi sh
dressing . bro th ; serve d wi th small quenelle s o f fi sh and
B E A RN AI SE —N a m e of a sauce use d wi th s teak s smal l toas t .

and e n t r ee s composed o f m inced shallo ts


, B I S QU E OF P R AWN S ( OR S H R I M PS ) —M ade ~

“ ”
b rai se d wi th t arragon vinegar to which i s , the same as B isque of c rayfish excep t using
a d d e d a th in velou té sauce then som e beaten , al l p rawn s or sh ri mps .

yol k s of eggs con ti nuall y s ti rred ove r the fi re


, B I S Q U E O F L OB S T E R — M ea t Of f resh boile d
till l i k e cus tard removed mel ted bu t te r then
, , l obs ters cu t i n to smal l squares the tough par ts ,

beaten i n a t the ra te of th ree o u n ces t o the pin t , wi th the shell s and claws boiled f o r t wen ty
seasoned wi th l emon j uice and r e d p epper , m inu tes l onger the coral d ried in a slow oven
, ,

st rained fi n ished by ad d ing ch opped pa rs l ey


, the s toc k made of B echame l sauce thi nned wi th
and tarragon leaves S o m e cook s om i t th e . the wate r the fi sh were boile d i n th e coral ,

velou té sauce and use onl y bu t te r a n d egg


,
then rubbed th rough a sieve and added to the
yo l k s thus making a kin d of bu t te r m ayonn ai se
, , soup giving i t a pi n k ish appearance ; fi n ished
tha t wil l very readily disin tegra te i f all owed to by a d d in g the square s of mea t and some smal l
k eep h o t . quen elle s of l obs ter .

B E C H AM E L — Name of a whi te sauce compose d B IS Q U E OF OYSTE R S — Sca l d ed oys ters and


of reduce d ch ic k en b ro th wi th som e essenc e o f boiled rice i n equal bul k rubbed th rough a
mush room s an equa l q uan ti ty of rich m i l k or
, sieve added to a th in cream Of oys ter soup
, ,

c ream boiled up t hic k en ed wi th fl our and


, , flavored wi th mace a n d bay l eaves .

bu t ter season ed wi th sal t l e mon j uice and


, , B I SQ U E O F S ALM ON — C ooked sa l mon rubbed
g ra ted n u tm eg the n s train e d f o r use ,
.
th rough a sieve ad d e d to s tock composed of
B EN ED I C T IN E— T he n ame of a l iqueu r used .
equal par ts of cour t bouillon a n d velou té sauce
-
,

as a cord ial as a flavori ng to sauce s an d con


, boile d up season ed fi n i she d wi th chopped
, ,

f e c t i o n e r y in mak ing punches and other d r in k s ;


, parsle ya n d Sau tern e win e .

B ISQU E O F PL OVE R S —Th e p l overs b raised


“ "
i t rese mbles yellow Ch ar treuse i n fl avo r an d
appearance i s made principall y a t the Abbey
,
for an h ou r i n madeira sauce tak en up and ,

o f F ecamp i n Eu rope .
pounde d then rubbed through a si eve ; boil e d
B I SQ UE —The F rench term given to soups ma d e
,

f arina en o u gh to th icken the quan ti ty of the


of a th ick purée princi pall y of shel l fi sh and soup I s rubbe d through a sieve the t wo purées
, ,
game
BI S Q U E O F C R AB S —H al f a pound of r ice
.

then ad d e d to a game s tock boiled up s k i mmed , , ,

seasoned fi nishe d wi th por t win e


,
.

boile d to each gal l on of soup ; when d on e a d d


h al f a poun d of crab mea t to each gall on ( good B I S Q U E OF PA R T R ID GE — B raise d or roas t
,

c rab meat i s ob tainable any ti me Of the year i n par tridge mea t poun d e d a n d rubbed th rough a
the f orm of M c M e n a m i n s cann ed devile d c rab
“ ' sieve wi th whi te b read cru mbs a n d a purée of
then rub the whol e th rough a fi ne si eve chestnu ts the whole then ad d ed to a game flav
,
-

a d d ing a l i t t l e mel ted bu t ter and a season ing of ored s tock boiled up sk i mme d seasoned fin
, , , ,

i s h e d wi th por t wine
nu tmeg M ake the s tock of th in velou té ad d
B I SQ U E O F TER RAP IN —
.

.
,

T
1 errapi n shell s
the rice a n d c rab pu rée bring t o a si m me r , ,
,

then add sl ice d Ok ras mince d red a n d green ,


head s and tri mmi ngs simme red i n consomme
peppers s l iced tomatoes season wi th marj oram
, , ,
for four hours strained the mea t rubbed
, ,

thym e red pepper and l emon j uice si m me r


, ,
th rough a sieve and pu t back i n to th e s train ed
slowly for on e h our and serve .
stock wi th some parsley thyme cloves m ace , , , ,

B ISQ U E O F C R AYFI S H — U s e al l c rayfi sh if bay leaves whole peppe rs and m inced onions
, ,

you can ge t the m ; i f n ot ge t a dozen o r t wo , ,


al l tied i n a mus l in bag b rough t to a boil , ,

which boil i n a l i t tl e water con tain ing sal t ,


ski mmed an equal quan ti ty Of vel ou té sauce
,

whole peppers parsley a n d on ion s cook them ,


a d d ed sim mered for a f e w m inu tes fi n ished by
, ,
,

twen ty m in u tes d rai n cool p ic k ou t mea t f rom the addi tion of some boil ing c ream .

B I S Q U E O F ] AC K RABB I T —T he rabbi t cu t
, , ,

tails and cl aws th row away t h e i n tes tines ,


,

pound the rest shell s a n d hea d also some , ,


up and b raised wi th spices a n d vegetabl es in
boil ed fi sh lobster and yo l ks of h ard boil ed
,
consomme til l tender then poun d e d a n d rubbed ,

eggs to a pas te adding some mel ted bu tter ; ,


th rough a sieve the b raise s trained th e purée
, ,

boi l th is paste wi th a l i t tl e veal stock for an pu t back in to i t b oiled up sk i mme d equal


, , ,

hour ti ll dry then rub i t through a sieve add


, ,
vo l ume of th in velou té sauce added to i t sea ,
1 8 T H E C U LI N AR Y H AND B O O K .

s one d fi nished wi th sherry wine and serve d


, , run n in g ou t top cover pl aced on washed over
, ,

wi th some sma l l q uen el l es of rabbi t . wi th p i e wash baked served wi th smal l pi eces , ,

B LAN C H O R B LANC H E D— F oo d s p l aced to of ch eese .

boi l i n cold wa ter remove d a f te r coming to the , B LAC K B E R RY S H OR TC AK E —T w o shee ts Of


boil poured in to a col an d e r and wel l washe d ;
, shor t pas te sprea d be tween wi th the frui t taken
,

and i n the case of al m onds e tc the ski n s are ,


.
, f rom a compo te the upper shee t sp read wi th ,

th en easil y remove d . whipped c ream and decorated wi th som e fresh


B L AN C M AN G E — M i l k pu t t o b oi l con taining , berri es .

sugar gra ted orange r ind an d a few b i t ter a l


, ,
B L ACK B E K R Y j A M — Fresh pic k ed over ber
mon d s ; when boi led s train i n to ano ther sauce , ries m ixe d wi th ten ounces O f suga r to each
pan boiled up again then thickene d wi th corn
, , pound of frui t graduall y b rough t t o a si m mer ,
-
,

s tarch and poured i n to molds th e bo t toms


, , then allowed to cook till f airl y th ick o r til l i t -
,

and sides O f which may be decorated w i th c rys se ts when droppe d on a cold dish .

t a l l i z e d frui ts A f ter the bl an c mange i s m ade


. B L AC KB I RD S —Ca n b e Ob taine d n earl y al l the
“ ”
i t may be m ad e i n to ribbon c ream by separ year round Of th e N e w York and C hicago game
ating i t in to fou r vessel s col orin g one green , and pou l try merchan ts ; they are very cheap
and fl avoring i t wi th pistach ios an other red , and make u se f u l en trées .

wi th a rose flavor ano ther wi th som e boil ing , B L AC KB I R D S B R O I LE D ON S KEWE RS ,

chocolate ; when fi ll in g the m olds th e whi te i s , ( en broche t te ) Th e bi rds drawn wipe d picke d -
, , ,

place d fi rs t and th e chocol a te l as t . a n d wrapped round wi th a very thin slice of

B LAN Q U ETT E — A term o f ten used in d e s c r i b bac o n run on s k e wers b roiled serve d on toas t
, , , ,

in g a wh i te fricassee o f wh i te m ea ts such as garn ished wi th parsley and sl ices o f l emon


C O M POT E O F B LA C KB I R D S —T h e black
.
,

sweetbrea d s veal an ima l brain s spring l amb


, , , ,

rabbi t chicken e tc e tc
, ,
.
,
. birds pic k e d d rawn wiped a n d t russed then
, , ,

B L AC K B E R R IE S — “
A l so called dewberries , quickl y brown ed wi th bu t te r i n a ho t oven ,
a frui t of th e raspberry speci es used as a table , taken up p l aced i n a gam e sauce and sim mered
,

frui t preserves ma d e in to b ran d ies and


, , t il l tender ; serve d i n c rous tades wi th som e
cor d ia l s sauce pou red around
S A LM I S O F B LA C K B I RD S —T h e bl ackbi rds
. .

B LAC KBE RR IE S W I T H CR EAM —T h e ber


ries pic k ed ove r served i n d ishes wi th cream , picked d rawn wiped and t russed quickl y
, , ,

and powd ere d sugar . r o a s te d t h e n place d in a game sauce wi th some


,
.

B LAC K B E RRY PUDDIN G — Picked over black mushrooms and ston ed ol ives ; when d on e ,

berries 3 qua r ts flou r 2 pounds b ak in g sod a , , served wi th a f ancy c rou ton a t e n d s o f th e d i sh ,

on e ounce N ew O rl ean s mol asses on e quar t


, ,
an d the sauce poured over the bi rds ; garni sh
l i t tl e sal t th e wh o l e m i x ed toge ther wi thou t
,
,
wi th the mushrooms and Ol i ves .

water pu t in to mo ld s cover tied on boile d


, , ,
B L AC KBIRD P I E The blackbi rds picked ,

three hours S erve d wi th sauce D OR E E com


. d rawn ,wiped and s tu ff ed wi th breadcrumbs
posed o i half pound of bu t ter beaten till c reamy mixed wi th sal t peppe r chopped parsley n u t , , ,

wi th h al f pound Of powdere d sugar placed , m e g a n d eggs t russe d quickl y made brown i n


, ,

over th e fi re and two bea ten yol k s of eggs the oven placed in pi e d ish covere d w i th game
, ,

sti rred in ; wh en thick wor k i n half a pin t of , sauce a n d som e sl ice d hard boiled eggs c o v ,

brandy and season wi th gra te d n u tmeg


, . ered wi th pie pas te a n d bak ed .

B L AC KBE R RY C H AR L O TT E — M o l d s or pan s B LAC KB I R D S I N P OTA T O E S —T he b l ackbird


l ine d wi th sl i c es Of bu t te red bread si d es a n d ,
picked d rawn wiped a n d an oys ter pl aced i n
, ,

bot tom s then fi l led wi th picked ove r berries


, ,
side t russed quic k l y browned i n th e oven wi th
, ,

season ed wi th sugar cove red w i th slices o f , bu t ter Evenl y peeled po ta toes ( I rish or swee t )
.

bu t te red b read sprinkled wi th sugar sl owly , ,


spl i t i n h alves l eng th wise h oll owed ou t the , ,

baked ti l l brown a n d gl azy ; served wi th frui t bi rd placed in t ied wi th s tring baked and , ,

sauce . baste d wi th bu t ter ; when the pota to i s don e ,

B L AC K B E R RY T AR T LE T T E S — S mal l fancy so i s th e bi rd ; served wi th gam e sauce pou red


mol d s l ined wi th pu ff pas te wi th a cri mped around an d fancy c rou ton s a t en d s
,
.

edge fi lled wi th a d r y com pote of b l ackberries ;


,
B LAC KFIS H — A black skinned fi sh of the perch
bak ed ; when d one the cen tre decora ted wi th , spec ies found pl en tifull y Sou th .

F R I E D B LAC K FIS H WITH B AC ON — The


,

piped me ringue .

B LAC KB E R RY C OM P OTE — T h e p icked over fi sh sca l e d t ri mmed seasoned roll ed i n flou r ;


, , ,

berries pu t i n to a b oil ing sy rup a n d si mmered t he bacon fried ; the fi sh then f ried i n the
ti l l ten d er ; serve d i n small croustades of swee t bacon fat ; served wi th a s l ice o f th e bacon ,

ene d r ice . garn i shed wi th chip pota toes pars l ey a n d a , ,

B L AC KB E R RY P I E — Pi e p l a tes l in ed wi th p ie sl ice of l em on .

paste berries mixe d wi th sugar and a dus ting B R O ILE D B LAC K FI S H WITH P AR S LE Y
B UT T E R—The fi sh scaled t ri m med score d
,

of flou r th e pl ates fi ll ed l i t tl e baking sod a


, , , , .

s prink l ed over th e fru i t to p re v en t th e j u ic e brushed wi th me l ted bu t ter seasoned rolled i n , ,


T H E C U L IN ARY H AND B O OK . 19

flou r b rushed again wi th bu t ter and broiled ;


, the breas t when n ear l y don e th e bacon r e
, ,

served wi th m ai tre d h Ote l bu t ter pou re d ove r ’

moved the breas t d redged wi th flo u r a n d


,

the fi sh and garn i shed wi th j ul i en ne po ta toes


, . me l ted bu t ter then brown ed ; se rve d wi th b rea d
,

BLAC KFI S H S AU T E W I T H F I N E H ERB S sauce and some of the gravy poure d around
,
.

The fi sh sca l ed tri m med seasone d rolled i n


, , , B LAC K P UD D IN G — O f ten seen on the bill O f

fl ou r s au té d in bu t ter then pl aced in an o the r
, , fare as B oudi n Noi r they are made of sheeps , ,

'
s a tl t o i r con tai ning fi nes herbes sauce si m mered , o r pigs b lood a n d chopped sue t seasone d , ,

f o r a f e w minu tes served wi th some o f the , fi lled i n to i n testines smok ed boile d and when , , ,

sauce poure d a round and garn ished wi th Pa r , cold served i n thi n sl ice s as an appe ti se r
, .

i s i e n n e pota toes . B LOATE R S —Ar e smo k e d herrings and the bes t ,

B AKE D B L AC KFI S H OYS TE R S AU C E —The , a r e i mpor ted from



YAR M O U T H a sea por t
fi sh scale d t rim med s easoned placed in a
, , , ci ty of Eng l an d which ci ty has n ever found an ,

bak ing pan b rown oyster sauce s trained ove r equa l riva l in th i s produc tion
T OAST E D B LO AT E R S — T he head re move d
.
,

th e fi sh baked to a gla zy appearance ; serve d


,

wi th a brown oyster sauce poured over t he fi sh , wi th the en t rai l s wi thou t open ing th e fi sh ,

an d garn ished wi th smal l po ta to c roque t tes . which i s don e by cu t ting the n ec k across the
B O I LED B L AC KFI S H I TALI AN S AUC E , back and drawing the en trail s wi th the gil ls ,

The fi sh scale d tri m me d and pu t to boil i n , they are then washed i n col d wate r wiped d r y , ,

boil ing wa te r con taining an on io n s tuck wi th


'
and s l ow l y b roi l ed ; served wi th mel ted bu t ter ,

cloves sl ices o f c arro ts sal t bay leaves and a


, , , garn ished wi th l emon and parsley .

l i t tle vinegar sim mered till done ; s erved wi th


, B A K E D YAR M O U T H B L OATER S I N S AU C E
a wh i te I talian sauce and garn ished wi th quar t ,
-
The fi sh d rawn then bl anched taken up and , ,

e rs O f small po ta toes sprinkled wi th parsley . skinned the flesh l ifted o ff i n fi l l e ts free from
,

B L AC K D I V E R — N ame of a wild duck he l d i n bon e then l aid i n pan and covered wi th a th ick
, ,

great es tee m by epicu res i s a t i ts bes t in the , anchovy sauce con tain ing a l i t tl e bloate r paste ,

form of sal mi s or b rai sed and served wi th a


, sprinkled wi th gra ted cheese and bread crumbs ,

l i t t l e grated chocol ate d issolve d i n th e sauce . baked ; served garn ished wi th fancy po tatoes .

B LAC K C OC K O f ten seen on bil l s of fare as YA R M O UT H B L O ATER S S AU T E S —T he fil


“ "

Co q d e B ruyere H eath fowl B lack game and


'

, , le t s p repared as i n th e p receding then l igh tl y ,


B lack g rouse .
fried in bu tter seasoned wi th red pepper
B R AI SED B LAC K G RO U S E—The bird picked
, ,

, sprink l ed wi th chopped pars l ey ; s erved on toas t


singed drawn an d wipe d the breas t l ar d ed
, , garnished wi th l emon and parsl ey .

wi th th i n s trips o f seasone d lardi ng pork ; B L U E FIS H —A grea t favori te and i n good de


placed in a saucepan wi th some bacon tri m mand i n an y f or m on th e bi ll of fare al though ,

mings carro t on ion s whole c l oves and peppers


, , , , baked o r broiled h ave the mos t c alls ; a si x
moistene d wi th a game sauce and a dash o f pound fi sh cu ts to bes t advan tage for res tauran t
tarragon v inegar si mmered i n the oven till , use cu t ting fi ve good por tion s ; 3 f our to five
,

ten d er ; when done taken up the braise s t rained , , poun d fi sh being too th in fo r re s tauran ts bu t
, ,

B urgundy wine a d ded to i t then reduce d ; the , j us t the thin g for a course di n ne r .

b i rd served wi th some of the sauce pou red ove r BL U E FI S H S T U FF E D A ND B AK E D —The


i t and garnished wi th sma ll sausage ba ll s
,
.
fi sh scal ed t ri m med wiped d ry and fi lled wi th
, ,

B R OI LED B L AC K C OC K W IT H j E L LY a s tu fli n g composed of cooked veal t wo parts ,

The young bi rd s picked singe d d rawn and , , boi l ed bacon on e par t and grated b rea d cru mb s ,

wipe d spl i t down the back bac k bone a n d b reas t


, , one par t the mea t chopped fi ne th en m ixed
, ,

bon e remove d seasoned wi th sa l t and peppe r


, , wi th the bread c rumbs seasoned wi th sal t , ,

bru she d wi th bu t ter b roiled ; se rve d on toas t , peppe r marj oram thyme m ace a n d l emon
, , , ,

wi th a sauce made o f j elly and bu t te r me l ted j uice m ixed thorough l y and S l igh tl y mois ten ed
,

a n d beaten toge ther poured ove r th e bi rd a , , wi th fi sh broth ; when fi ll ed the open ing sewn ,

l i t tl e cu rran t j elly served sepa ra te garn ished , up the fi sh d redged wi th flou r and pu t i n a pan
,

wi th ch ip po ta toes a n d a sprig of parsley , .


wi th carro t t urn ip on ion a fe w cloves cl are t
, , , ,

S AL M IS OF H EAT H F OWL— The bi rd s pic k ed , wi ne and con som m e ; baked ; when don e tak en ,

d rawn singed and wiped d i sj oi n ted roast ed


, , , up and to the pan i s a d ded some E spagnol e
,

l igh tly ; p l aced in a saucepan wi th game sauce , sauce ; boi l ed up s t rai ned ; served wi th some ,

m ade from the head fee t l iver h ear t neck , , , ,


of th e sauce and garn ished wi th D uchesse ,

and gi z z ard ; si mmered t il l tender seasoned ,


potatoes .

wi th sherry win e a n d essence of mushrooms ; B L U E F I S H STE A K S ITALIAN S A UC E —The ,

se rved wi th some of the sauce pou red over the fi sh cu t in to s teak s and arranged i n a bu t tered ,

bi rd and garn ished wi th fried bu t ton mush


, pan con tain ing some mi nced shallots wh i te ,

rooms .
wine and mu sh room l iquor covered wi th a ,

R OAS T B L AC K G AM E B R E AD S AU C E , shee t of bu t tere d paper bake d ; when don e , ,

Th e bi r d p ic k ed d ra wn singed wiped and , , ,


taken up some I ta l ian sauce s train ed i n to the
,

trussed ro as ted wi th a sl ice o f bacon tied over


, pan boiled u p and s t rained back i n to a rich
, ,
T H E CU L I N A R Y H AND B O O K .

I tal i an Sauce ; se rve d wi th som e of th e sauce a bu t tered b aking pan m oi sten ed wi th ancho v y ,

poured over and g arn ished wi th Ho ll andaise


, sauce sp rink l ed wi th gra ted bread c rumbs and
,

pota toes . me l ted bu t ter baked ; serve d wi th anchovy


,

B A K E D B LU E FIS H W I T H T OM AT OE S sauce and garn ished wi th Parisienn e po ta toes


, .

T h e fi sh o u t in por tion s season ed d redged , , B A K ED B L U EFI S H M AT E L OTE S AU C E ,

wi th fl ou r placed i n a bu tte red pan t o which


, , T he fi sh cu t i n s teaks season ed b rush ed wi th , ,

i s ad d e d m ince d on i on s to mato sauce and a , , bu t te r ar ranged i n pan mois ten ed wi th c l are t


, ,

can of tomatoes tha t have been s trained f ro m win e b aked ; wh en don e on o n e si d e tu rned
, ,

thei r j ui c e ; baked ; wh en d on e s erved w i th , ove r an d b rowned on the o ther then taken up , ,

some of th e toma toes poured around and gar , and to the wi n e i n th e pan i s added so me E s
n i s h e d wi th smal l pota to c ro q ue t tes .
p ag n o l e sauce and m ushroom l i quor b oil ed up , ,

B O I LE D B L UEF I S H S H R IM P S AU C E — The , s train ed sk i mm ed fi n ish ed wi th gra ted n u t


, .

fi sh o u t i n por ti on s pu t to b oi l i n b oil in g fi sh , meg an d anchovy b u t ter the fi sh served w i th ,

broth con tai nin g sa l t peppers c l ove s c arro t , , , som e of the sauce poured aroun d and garni shed ,

and on ion i n sl ices w i th a dash of v in e g ar , wi th Vic tori a po ta toes .

when done served wi th a sh ri mp sauce poured


, B O UC H E E A F rench word which mean s

around and garni sh ed w i th q uar te red s teamed
,
mou th ful ; i t i s u sed to d esign a te cer tain
potatoes spr ink l ed wi th m ai t re d h Ote l b u t ter ’
. speci men s of cookery bo th savory and s wee t , ,

B R OI L E D B L U E F I S H W I T H AN C H OVY th a t are fi l l ed i n to p u ff p as te and sponge c ake


B UT T E R T h e fi sh o u t i n po r tion s seasoned
~
, , pa tty cases h ence a B ouchée i s a s mal l pa t ty
, ,
.

d redged wi th flou r b rushed wi th bu t ter b roiled ; , , B O UC H E E O F O YSTE R S — Oys ters sca l ded the ,

when done se rved wi th some anch ov y b u t te r


,
l i q uo r made in to a sauce oy s te rs cu t i n to d ice , ,

on top of the fi sh and garn i sh ed Wi th ch i p p o , added t o the fi ni shed sauce seasoned wi th ,

t a t o e s parsl ey an d a sl ice of l e mon


, ,
. l emon j uice and anchov y e ssence fi l l ed i n to ,

B AKE D B L U E FI S H W I T H FIN E H E RB S p u ff paste pat ty shell s and serve d ,


.

Th e fi sh o u t i n s teaks season ed d redge wi th , , B O U C H E E O F C H I C K E N — B reas t of ch icken


fl ou r a rran g ed i n b u t te red bak ing pan covered
, , ( cooked ) cu t i n to d ice m i xed i n to a rich v é l o u té ,

wi th a fin e s h erbe s sauce baked ; served w i th


-
,
sauce made hot fi lled i n to pat ty sh ell s and
, ,

som e of the sauce poured around and garn i sh ed served .

B O U C H E E O F G AM E— An y co l d cooked game
,

wi th po ta toes cha teau . B luefi sh p repared as


i n th e reci pe j us t given m ay a l so be se rved and ,
m ay be use d and i f desi red can be so named
,

bak ed wi th P iquan te B orde l ai se an d T omato ,


in s tead Of the wor d game the mea t c u t i n ,

sauces .
smal l square s and m ade h o t i n a sauce a pp r o p
,

B L U EF I S H S AU T E AD M I RAL S A U C E ,
r iate to the game u sed fi ll ed i n to smal l pa t ty ,

Th e fi sh cu t i n s teaks season ed dredged wi th , ,


she ll s an d served .

flour fried i n bu t ter ; wh en don e take n up and


, , ,
B O U C H E E O F F O I E G R AS — Thi s i s served -

i n to the pan they were fried i n som e bu t te r , co l d The foie gras i s cu t i n to smal l pieces
.
-
,

sauce i s added boiled up and s tra in ed i n to , ,


pu t i n to pa t ty sh el l s wi th l i mpid aspic j e ll y ,

ano the r sau toi r con tain ing m inced f ri ed sh a l and served when se t .

l o t s c apers grated l e m on ri nd and poun ded


, , ,
B O U C H E E O F S w E E T B R E A D s — The s wee t
anchovies ; b oiled ski mmed the fi sh served wi th , ,
b reads broi l e d cu t i n to smal l squares m ade
, ,

th e sauce pou red around and garn ished wi t h ,


h o t i n a wh i te I tal ian sauce the war m pa t ty ,

C on d é po ta toes . she l l s fi lled and served .

B LU E FI S H S AU T E W I T H AN C H OVI E S B O U C H E E O F L O B ST E RS — Fresh boiled l ob


Th e fi sh cu t i n to por tion s season ed d redged , , s te r m ea t cu t i n d ice m ade h o t i n a Supr eme ,

wi th flou r f ried i n bu t te r taken u p ; i n to the


, , sauce fi ll ed i n to th e pat t y shell s and served
,
.

pan i s then pu t some m inced shallots ; when B O U C H E E WI T H R AG O U T — T h e pa t ty shell s


browned anchovy pas te an d l emon j uice added
, , fil led wi th a mix tu re of s moked t ongue breas t ,

wi th a l i t tl e B orde l aise sauce boi l ed u p , , of ch icken t ru ffles a n d m ush rooms ; al l c u t


,

strain ed ; served wi th Some of th e sauce and , s mal l and made ho t in a S up r eme sauce cove r ,

garn i she d wi th Hol l and aise po ta toes pu t on and served ( called B O U C H E E S a l a


S TU FFED FI LL ETS O F B L U EFI S H —The
.
, ,

REI N E) .

fi sh fil l e te d a n d cu t i n por t i on s season ed , ,
B O U C H E E W I TH MAR R OW Th e spina l
dre d ged wi th fl our quickl y broil ed on th e o u t ,
m arrow of beef cu t i n pieces cooked i n a sauce ,

side t h e b roi l ed par t spread wi th a th ick


,
Alber t fil l ed i n to the pa t ty shel ls an d served
,
.

v el ou té sauce con tain in g grate d ham m i nced ,


B O UC H E E WIT H GAM E P U R E E —T l l e pat ty
fried shallo ts mush rooms and chopped parsley ;
,
shel l s fi ll ed wi th a rich pu rée of an y for m Of
when al l a r e sprea d pl ace d sk i n side down i n ,
game h igh l y season ed ( called B O U C H E E S a
, , ,

a bu t tered bakin g pan wi th a l i t tl e whi te win e l a ST H U BE R T )


B O U C H E E O F C RAYFIS H TAI L S —The mea t
. .
, ,

bake d ; served wi th pars l ey sauce poured aroun d


and garnish ed wi th pota to quen elles fro m th e tail s of fresh boiled crayfi sh cu t up ,

B A K E D B L U EFI S H I N C R U M B S —Th e fi sh
.

and made h ot i n a cream p ars l ey sauce fill ed , .

cu t i n t o por tion p ieces seasoned arranged in , ,


in to the pat ty shel ls and served .
T H E C U L I N A R Y H AN D B OO K . 2 1

B OU C H E E W I T H S ALPIC ON —C o o ked poul Of mea ts game poul tr y and fi sh i n th e form , , ,

t ry o r game cu t sma l l made hot i n a rich sauce of cakes o r sausages


B O U D IN N O IR —O r b l ack pudd ing see ( b l ack
.
, ,

fille d i n to the pat ty she ll s and served


B OU C H E E WITH O X P AL AT E s —T he pa t ty
.
,

pud d ing )
shel l fi ll ed wi th a mi x ture Of smal l cu t pieces B O U D IN OF VEAL —Fine l y minced veal and
.

of b r a i z e d ox pa l ate and mush rooms made ho t bacon season ed wi th aromatic herbs then mad e , ,

i n All eman d e s auce i n to smal l sausage shapes poached i n wh i te


B O U C H E E O F SARD I N E S —The sardi nes
.
,

s tock se r ved wi th a sauce Perigueux ( called , , ,

made i n to a paste wi th G ruyere cheese sal t B O U DIN D E VE AU ) , , .

peppe r and chil i vinegar m i x wi th a fe w scald B O U D I N O F R ABB I T — S ame as the precedin g


, ,

ed oy s ters o u t small the pa t ty shell s fi l le d a n d subs ti tu ting rabbi t for the veal ; se rved wi th a
,

served garn ished wi th har d boiled yo l ks Of


, l igh t g ame sauce ( ca l led B O U D IN D E L A , ,

eggs rubbed th rough a sieve rese mbl in g ver PI N )


B OU D I N O F H ARE —S ame as the prece d ing
, .

mice l l i .
,

B OU C H E E WIT H M U SH R OOM S — S l ices of substi tu ting hare for rabbi t ( cal led B O U D IN , ,

b u t ton mush rooms l igh tly fried i n bu t t e r then D E L I EVR E )



.
,

p u t i n to a rich M adei ra sauce ma d e ho t fi lled B O U D IN O F F OW L ,C o l d wh i te chicken o r ,

i n to the pat ty shell s and the O pen ing fil l ed wi th , turkey m ea t pounded to a pas te wi th a season
a cork made of a mush room n ice l y glazed i n g of n u t meg sal t r e d pepper l emon j uice .
, , ,

B O U C H E E O F REE DB I R D - The reedbi rd and herbs th e paste force d in to a sk in plunge d , ,

bone d s tu ff ed b r a i z e d wi th w in e taken up
, , i n to boi l in g wh i te s tock till th oroughl y heated
, .

g l azed j oin ted pu t i n the pat ty she ll s some


, , through taken up served cold i n sl ices al ter , , ,

Perigueux sauce poured i n and served n ate l y wi th sl ices of b l ack pudd in g ( ca ll ed .


,

BO U C H E E O F WOODC OC K— Snipe Larks B OU DIN B LAN C) , , .

R icebi rds and O r tolan s may be p repared and B O U L E T T E S O F GA M E —The word bou l e t te
,

served same as the preceding .


sign ifi es “ ball and i s us ed very seldom excep t
B O U C H E E OF ANC H OV I ES — C oi l ed a n c h o v
,

“ "
to desc ribe a garn i sh B oule tte s of pota toes .

i es i n oi l taken ou t and d raine d M ayonn aise


, , are wha t i s be t te r kn own as po ta toe s Vic tori a .

sauce beaten wi th sti ff aspic j elly and a d ash of B oule t tes of g ame are ma d e of a highl y sea
tar ragon v inegar th e anchovie s di pped i n to i t
, ,
s o n e d m ince o f cold game b readed and fried ,
.

and fi l led in to co l d pat ty shell s the top then ,


B O U I LL AB AISS E —A n ation al soup of th e L ati n
decora ted wi th a cove r made of aspic j el l y an d ,
race composed o f pieces of fi sh ( bon ed and
,
serve d skinn e d ) garl ic chopped parsley b ay l e aves
B O U C H E E O F S OL E —Th e so l e fil l e te d and
.

, , , ,

tomatoes l eek s Onions l obster savory h erbs


, , , , ,

brai sed cu t i n smal l pieces when cold pu t in to


.
, ,
potatoes o l ive O il and sa ff ron fried then si m
, , ,

the pa t ty shell s l impid fi sh j ell y poure d in th e


, ,
me red t il l done ; served in p l atefu l s wi th sl ices
top d ecora ted wi th M on tpel i e r bu t te r and of toas t d ried in the oven .

serve d
B ROC H ETT E—A skewe r on which are th rea d ed
.

B O U C H E E OF S AL M ON C o l d cooked sa l mon -

i n flakes m i xed wi th Ravigote sauce fi ll ed in to s mall del ica te mea ts e tc to be cooked a n d ,


.
, ,
, ,

the pa t ty shel l s the top decorated wi th M ayon serv e d wi th o r wi th ou t the skewer ; al so used
,

n aise and s tudded wi th cape rs by confec tione rs to thread frui t on before can
B OU C H E E OF O R AN G E S —
.

Th e pat ty she ll ~ dying them .

used fo r swee t bouchées i s made o f a r ich s ti fl B R OC H E TT E O F O Y ST E R S — Oys ters bacon ,


l ad y fi nger m ix ture forced ou t of a pas t ry " and swee tbreads ( op ti onal ) th e bacon and ,

bag i n rings one on top of the o the r to t h e de swee tb read s cu t i n sl ices same leng th as the
si red heigh t sprink l ed wi th p ink sugar baked
, ,
o ysters seasoned wi th sal t pepper powdere d
, , ,

and glazed the oranges peel e d an d separa ted


,
thyme and chopped pars l ey the Oysters a n d ,

i n sec tion s then si mmered i n an orange sy rup ;


,
swee tbreads d ipped i n bea ten eggs then rolled ,

when done ta k en up and d rained pu t i n to the


, ,
i n fresh gra ted bread crumbs threaded al ter ,

bouchées the top decorated wi th a fl avore d h a te l y on the skewer wi th th e bacon ; when ful l ,
,

wa ter i c i n g ( c a l l e d B O U C H E ES a l a SEVI LLE )


,
fried i n ho t fa t served wi th some hea ted to ,

B O UC H E E S O F P L U M s —T h e shel l m ade as mat o catsup th a t is season ed wi th anchovy


,

i n the p receding the p l u ms pee l ed s toned and


, ,
essence pou red around an d garn ished wi th ,

cu t in sl ice s sim mered i n syrup taken up and


, ,
lemon and pars l ey ,

drained pu t in to the bouchée s l i mpid swee t


, ,
B R OC H E TTE O F L AM B KI DN EY S T he
j elly poure d in ; when the j elly is se t the top ,
k idneys wi th the sk in re moved and spl i t in t wo
d ecora ted and served . wi thou t qui te seve ring thread ed on th e skewer ,

B OUC H E E OF PE A C H E S — Prepared the sa me fi a t q uickl y broile d f o r an i n s t a n f over a ho t


,

as the p receding subs ti tu tin g peach es f o r ,


fi re then taken o ff and season e d wi th sal t pep
, ,

plu ms S trawberries che rri es an d red rasp


.
,
per and g round m in t dipped i n v él o u té sauce , ,

berries may a l so be treated th is way then fresh grated b read c ru mb s b ru shed wi th


B OUD I N —The French n ame for a pudding m ade
.
,

me l ted bu t ter and b roi l ed over a s l ow fi re til l


22 T H E C U L IN AR Y H AN D B O OK .

don e ; served wi th a sauce Colber t pour ed pickled pork cu t i n sl ice s s ame si ze as the k id “

aroun d .
n eys threaded al tern atel y on s k ewer rol le d i n
, ,

B R OC H ETT E O F SP R IN G L AM B — Ci rcular ol ive oil then brea d e d and f rie d ; se rved w i th


,

s teak s of the leg o f ra w l amb on e o u tl e t of th e , R ober t sauce con taini ng a d ash of anchovy
l eg makin g abou t th ree s teaks lai d fo r an h ou r , essence p ou red a roun d a n d garn ished wi th a ,

i n a mi x ture O f mince d shallots ch ives m in t , , ,


smal l bak ed a nd gla ze d appl e .

garl ic l e mon j uice n u tmeg me l te d b u tter sal t


, , , , B R OC H ET TE OF M U T T O N — C u tle ts from
and pepper then tak en u p rolle d i n fresh
, ,. the l eg o r loin cu t in to even si zed pieces sea , ,

gra ted b rea d c rumbs th read e d on th e s k ewer , ,


s o n e d wi th a m ix ture of sal t peppe r c innam on , ,

b roil ed till d one and served wi th C olber t sauce and powd ere d savory th rea d e d on s k e wer ar , ,

poured aroun d . ranged i n baking pan m o i s t e n e d w i t h a th i n ,


BR OC H E TT E OF VE AL — C old cooked vea l and tomato sauce roasted a n d baste d wi th i t ; se rve d


,

boiled h am cu t in to even si zed pi eces th e veal , wi th toma t o sauce pou re d aroun d a n d gar ,

season ed wi th sal t pepper a n d powdered m ar ,


n i s h e d wi th ch ip pota toes .

j oram th read e d al terna tel y on th e ske wer


, ,
B ROC H ETT E O F M U S SEL S — Prepared an d
brea d ed fri e d se rved wi th wh i te I tal i an sauce
, , served the same way as the recipe given f o r
“ "
poured aroun d a n d garn i she d wi th water c ress , . broche t te of o ys ters .

B ROC H E TT E O F D UC K LI VER S —T h e l iver B R O C H E TTE O F SWEE TB RE AD S T he


i s par boiled then p repare d a nd c ook ed the
-
,
swee tb rea d s soa k ed blanche d then boil e d ti l l , ,

“ "
same way as ch ic k en l ivers following ; serve d tender wi th vege tabl es and spices t a k en up , ,

wi th B i g a r r a d e sauce pou red aroun d and gar ,


drained S kin ned presse d till col d cu t i n pieces
, , , ,

h i s hed wi th wat e r cress an d l em on . then cu t ci rcular wi th th e l arges t si zed c olu m n


B R O C H ET T E O F C H I C KE N L I V E R S — T h e cu t ter ; slices of cold cook ed tongue the sam e
l ivers washed and dr ie d season ed wi th sal t and ,
way ; bo th dipped i n cool in g wh i te I tal ian sauce ;
pepper sl ices of b acon l igh tl y b roi l e d th en cu t
, ,
when col d r o l l e d i n f resh gra te d bread cru mbs
, ,

i n pieces same si ze a s t h e l i v e r s t h e s k ewe r ,


then th readed al tern a tel y on th e skewer ; when
th rea d e d wi th th e m a l te rn a tel y ; when al l o n f ull b rea d e d f ri e d se rved wi th wh i te I tal i an
, , ,

rolled i n mel ted b u t te r o r O l iv e O i l th en i n sauce pou re d aroun d


B ROC H E TTE O F S M EL TS —A j u d icious way
.
,

fresh grated bread c ru mb s b roiled se rve d on .


,

a sl ice O f n ar ro w toas t wi th m ai tre d h Ote l bu t O f usi n g up the sm all smel ts ; th e fi sh wiped


te r poure d over and garn i sh e d wi th water ,


afte r en trail s are d rawn season ed wi th sal t and ,

c ress . peppe r rolled i n flou r then in bea ten eggs and


, ,

B R OC H ET T E OF G EE S E LIVE R S — The l iv f resh bread c rumbs t hrea d ed on the s k e wer ,

e rs boile d i n s tock t il l d one th en cu t i n to sl ices , th rough the gill s f ri e d i n h o t f a t taken u p ,


'

, ,

s moked cooke d tongue the ti p e n d c u t i n sl ices d raine d ; served w i th or wi thou t tar tar o r to
same si ze as the l i ve rs ; both d ippe d i n cool in g mato sauce garn ish ed wi th l emon a n d parsle y
, .

Perigueux sauce ; when cold th readed a l ter , B R OC H E TT E O F C A L F S B RA I N S T he


h ately on t he s k e wer roll ed i n gra ted b read , b rain s soaked s k inned washed bl anched i n , , ,

crumbs th en b rea d ed an d f ri e d s erved wi th


, , b oi l i ng water con tain ing a l i t tl e vi negar ta k en ,

Pe rigueu x sauce poure d a rou nd and garn i she d , up drain ed cu t i n even si zed pi eces ; al so
, ,

wi th water c ress a n d l e mon . bacon cu t the same si z e ; th e brain s seasoned


B R OC H E TTE O F T U R KEY L IVE R S T he wi th sal t pepper n u tmeg powde re d thym e a n d
, , ,

l ivers blanche d cu t i n sl ices l igh tl y sau t eed , , choppe d parsley threa d ed on th e s k ewer al ter ,

wi th fi nel y m inced shallo ts garl ic and ch ives , , h atel y wi th th e bacon rolle d i n mel te d bu t ter , ,

tak en up d rain ed season ed w i th sal t pepper


, , , then i n bread crumbs broile d served wi th , ,

a n d l e mon j uice th rea d ed al tern atel y on skewer , R avigo te sauce and garni shed wi th wa tercress ,

wi th pieces o f h al f broiled bacon di ppe d i n ,


a n d l emon .

mel te d bu t ter then b read c ru mbs bea ten eggs


, ,
B R OC H ETT E O E LOB S T E R — C ol d boi l ed
a n d brea d c rumb s agai n b roil e d serve d wi th , ,
l obster mea t cu t i n pieces a n d mari n ad e d in a
H an ove r sauce pou re d around a n d garn ished ,
m ix tu re of sal t pepper n u tmeg and W o r c e s , ,

wi th wa terc ress .
t e r s h i r e sauce for an hour then threa d e d on ,

B R OC H ETTE O F E EL S — T h e eel s ski n ned s k ewe r al tern atel y wi th the l arge head of a
a n d c u t i n to inch pieces s teepe d for an hou r , bu t ton mush room rolled i n bu t ter t hen i n , ,

i n equal quan ti t i es o f ol ive oil a n d vi n egar , f resh brea d crumb s broile d serve d wi th m ai tre , ,
-

wi th sal t pepper chopped parsley a n d thy me d h Ot e l b u t t e fi mixe d wi th anchovy essence



, , ,

then pl ace d on s k e w e r al te rn a tel y wi th bacon ,


poured around a n d garn i she d wi th parsley a n d ,

arranged on a bak i ng pan wi th so me O f th e l emon .

marin ade poured ove r th e m ; r o a s t e d f o r te n B R O C H E TTE OF R AB B I T — R a w youn g r a b


m inu tes t ak en up d rai ned brea d e d fried a n d
, , , ,
bi t m ea t a n d col d boiled sal t por k c u t i n even
serv e d wi th tar tar sauce .
si ze d pieces the rabbi t sau t ee d i n bu t te r wi th
,

B R OC H ETTE O F P I G S KIDN EY S — T h e k id fi ne herbs tak en up an d th rea d e d al tern a tel y



,

n eys par boiled cu t i n sl ices seasoned wi th


-
, ,
on the sk ewer wi th the sa l t pork seasoned wi th ,

sa l t peppe r and pow d ere d sage ; cold boile d


,
a m ix tu re of sa l t pepper and powdered he rbs , ,
2 4 T HE C U LI N A R Y H AND B OO K .

B R A I N FORC E M E A T C o l d boi l e d brain s sauce and garn ished wi th pars l ey


, .

m inced then pounded to a paste w i th fl ou r


, , B RAISED B R AIN S WIT H S T U FFE D T O
egg yolks ; seasoned wi th n u tmeg sal t pepper , , M A T OE S — The b rain s blanched tri mmed and , ,

a n d choppe d parsley . arranged i n a sau toi r wi th carro t on ion pars , ,

B RAIN C R O Q U E T TE S WI TH PE A S —T h e l ey bay l eaves and c l oves m oi stened wi th


, ,

croque t tes formed i n con e sh apes of brain whi te s tock covered wi th a shee t of bu t tere d
,


forcemea t breaded f ried served wi th a frill , , paper b raised til l done tak en up the l iquor
, , ,

s tuck i n to th e c roque t te an d garn i she d wi th , ski mmed an d st rain ed i n to a V é l o u t é sauce re ,

green peas a t the en d s o f the di sh wi th Alle , d u c e d th e brain s served wi th some of the sauce
,

man d e sauce a t side pou red ove r t hem and garn i shed wi th smal l ,

B RAI N C U TL E TS V I L L E R OI S AU CE—T h e ,
s tu ff ed tom atoes .

cu tle ts si ze and shape of smal l l amb chops B R AISED B RAIN S S AU C E REM O U LADE ,

“ ”
T he brain s p repare d an d cook e d t he same way

made O f b rai n force mea t wi th a p iece of


macaron i to represen t t he bon e b read ed f r i ed ; , ,
as i n the prece d ing reci pe wi th th e addi tion o f ,

served wi th V i l l e r o i sauce poured around . a l i t tle wh i te win e t o t he mois ten ing s tock ;
B RA I N C AKE S W IT H B A C ON — The cakes when don e the b raise ski m med s trained a n d
, ,

si ze an d shape o f smal l c o d fis h cakes m ade of ,


reduce d to a gla ze then mixed i n to a ho t R e ,


b rain forcemea t b read e d f ri ed served wi th , , m o u l a d e sauce ; serve d wi th the sauce pou re d
a sl ice of broiled bacon and B éch ame l sauce over the b rain s an d garnished wi th fancy,

poure d around . c rou ton s .

R OAST B R AI N S WITH FO RC E ME A T B ALL S B RAI SED B R AIN S W I TH M U S H R O OM S


C al f s b rain s par boi l e d an d t ri mmed sea The b rains bl anche d t ri mmed and arrange d

- -
, , ,

s o n e d wi th sal t a n d pepper dipped i n mel ted , i n a sau toi r wi th sl ices o f bacon vegetables a n d ,

bu t ter then rol led i n flour quickl y roas te d and


, , spices moistened wi th wh i te s tock and j uice of
,

bas te d wi th bu t ter ; served garn ished wi th fried a l emon covered wi th thin sl ices o f bacon
, ,


ball s of brain f orcemea t a n d fi n e s herbes ‘

b raised till d on e taken up t h e bacon cu t i n , ,

sauce poured aroun d . pieces the b raise reduced to a gl aze and


, ,

SC A LL OPE D B R AI N S I N S H E LL Cold s trai ned over some bu t ton mush room s and
coo ked b rain s i n sl ices m ixed wi th a wh i te , smal l gla zed on ions the b rain s spri nk l ed wi th ,

I tal ian sauce fi ll ed in to scallop sh ells sprinkled


, ,
f ried bread cru mbs and garn ished wi th the ,

wi th grate d cheese and b read c rumbs bake d , ,


bacon mush room s an d on ions al ternatel y
,
.

serve d i n the shells ( called C E R V E A U X E N B RAIN S I N S AUC E P O U LETT E WI T H R I C E


—T h e brain s blanched t ri m me d and si mmered
,

C OQ U I LLE A U G RA T I N ) .
,

B RAI N S AN D M U S H R OO M S I N C ASE S in pou l e t te sauce served wi th the sauce poured


,

C ol d cooke d b rai n s and bu t ton mush room s cu t over the m a n d garn ished wi th smal l ti mbal es
i n n ea t p ieces tossed i n bu t ter ove r a qu ick
,
o f rice wi th a smal l sp rig of parsley s tuck i n
,

fi re to color l igh tl y then m oi s tened wi th S u ,


them .

p r e me sauce ; se rved i n f ancy paper cases . B R AIN S W I TH S O R R E L S AU C E R AVIG O T E ,

C ALF S B R AI N S AN D TO N G U E M U S H
’ —The brains blanche d tri mmed a n d si m mered ,
,

R O O M S A U CE— T he brain s par boiled and - til l tender i n wh i te stock wi th the j uice of a
t rim med t he tongues boiled sk inn ed t ri m med
, , ,
lemon Served on a bed o f pu rée of sorrel
.
,

a n d cu t l eng th wise dipped i n cool in g Piquan te


,
the brain s masked wi th R avigo te sauce .

sauce ; when cold both breaded and fried ; ,


C REAM E D B RAI N S WI T H K I DN EY B E AN S
serve d wi th mush room sauce .
—T h e brain s blanched tri mme d a n d si m mered ,

FRIE D B R AIN S W ITH B R OWN B U TT E R i n c ream sauce till don e ; served mask ed wi th
T h e b rain s blanche d a n d t ri mmed seasoned , ,
the sauce and garn i sh ed wi th k idney beans
brushed wi th bu t ter rolled i n flour dipped i n , , ( flag e o l e ts ) tha t have been sau t ee d in bu t ter .

beaten eggs then frie d ; se rved wi th brown


,
C R OU S TAD E S O F B R AI N S WI TH A RTI
bu t ter pou red Ove r them made by mel tin g , C H OKE S — T h e b rain s prepared and coo k ed
bu t te r ove r a quick fi re till i t fro th s and b rown s ,
the same way as given for braised brain s wi th
then a d d ing to i t the j uice of a lemon and some s tu ff ed tomatoes when done the b rai ns cu t ,

fi nel y chopped parsley ( ca l led C E RVE AU X ,


in sl ices m ixed wi t h the v é l o u t é sauce fi lled
, ,

A U BE U R R E N O I R ) . in to paste c rou s tades ; served garn ishe d wi th


F R IED B R AI N S B R EADE D TAR TAR ,
ar tichoke b o t t dm s spread wi th brain f orce

SAU C E —T h e b rain s blanched tri m me d and


"
, ,
meat and filled wi th small pieces of gl azed
mask e d wi th T ar tar sauce then brea d e d a n d ,
c alf s tongue

.

frie d ; served wi th T ar tar sauce a t the ends of B R OC H ET T E O F C AL F S B R AIN S — See '

th e di sh a n d Parisienn e po tatoes down the


, b roch e t te di she s .

sides .
B R AIN S W I TH R I C E T U R KI S H S TYL E ,

C AL F S B R AI N S S AU C E VIN AI GR E TTE

,
C ol d cooked b rain s wor k ed in to a creamy paste
Th e b rain s bl anched tri m med and b oile d t ill , ,
wi th c ream seasoned w i th sal t peppe r l emon
, , ,

j uice and nu tmeg ; the r i c e b o i l e d i n whi te s tock


'

don e i n wh i te s tock served wi th Vinaigre t te ,


T H E CU LI N A R Y H AND B O O K . 2 5
w i th a l t bu t ter peppe r and cinnamon ; se rv ed
s , , , boi l ed beef a n d for m a par t o f many garn i tu res .

the rice in small mol d s turn ed ou t on t o the ,


B R U S S E L S S PR O U T S B O I LE D —A s a veg
dish and mas k e d over wi th brain s sprink l ed
, , e tab l e trimme d thoroughly washed th r own
, , ,

wi th fi nely chopped parsley o r chervil . in to boi l ing water con tain ing sal t and a small
B RAI N PATTI E S O R VOL A U V E N TS - -
piece of common wash in g soda boiled til l ten ,

C old cooked brain s cu t i n sma ll dice wi th de r wi th th e saucep a n l id OFF abou t fi f teen


mush rooms made h ot in Supr eme sauce filled
, , m inu tes then turned in to a col an d e r d rained
, , ,

in to pat ty shells cover placed on and served ,


. tosse d wi th a l i t tl e me l te d bu t ter a n d serve d .

S AVO RY O MELET O F C ALF S B RAI N S '


B R U S S E LS SP R O U TS S A U T E E S —Prepared ,

The b rain s prepare d as i n the preceding th e , boi l ed and d rained as i n the preceding then ,

omele t mix ture made of bea ten eggs fin ely cu t ,


pl aced i n a s a fito i r wi th bu t ter an d l igh tly
chi ves parsl ey sa l t peppe r and n u tmeg the
, , , , fried season e d wi th sal t an d pepper ; served
,

omele t formed enc l osing some o f the m i x ture ;


, ei ther as a garn ish o r vege tab l e .

serve d wi th more of the brai ns in sauce poured B R U SSEL S S PR O U T S W I TH PAR S LEY


aroun d .
B UT T E R — S ame as th e preceding bu t served
C ALF S B R A I N S P AR S L E Y SA UC E — The
,

, wi th M ai tre D H Ot e l bu t ter poured ove r the m



.

brain s b l anched t rimme d and boiled till don e , , B R U S SELS S PR OU T S I N CR E AM — Prepared


i n whi te stock ; served on a sl ice of toas t pars , and cooke d the same as for boi l e d above“
,

l ey sauce pou red ove r the b rain s and garn ished then reheated i n a good re d uce d cream ( not
wi th Hollandaise pota toes .
c ream sauce ) ; served as a vege table .

B RAI N KR O M E S KIES M AD E R I A S AU C E ,
O M ELET WI T H B R U S S E LS S PR O UT S
S l ices o f co l d cooked brai n s dippe d i n gla ze , T he above sprou t s in crea m enclose d i n a ,

e nci rc l ed wi th a very thin stri p o f cold boi l e d savory omele t ; served garn i shed wi th some of
bacon pinned wi th a too thpick dipped i n ba t
, ,
the sp rou ts aroun d th e omele t and the c rea m
te r an d fried the too thpick removed ; se rved
,
pou red over the m
P U R E E O F B R U S S E L S SP R OUT S — The
.

wi th mad eira sauce pou re d around .

B RO ILED B R AIN S WITH P AR S L E Y B U T “

T E R—
sprou ts prepared as fo r brusse l s sprou ts
T he brains b l anch ed tri mmed and cu t
"
, sau tées a f te r sau t eeing they a re rubbed
i n sl ices season e d broiled ; served on toas t
, ,
th rough a fin e sieve m i xed wi th egg yolk s and ,
'
w i th M ai tre D H Ot e l bu t te r poured over the m bu t ter season ed wi th sal t a n d pepper ; used as
,

an d garnished wi th jul ienn e potatoes .


a garn ish or i n a soup ; i f i n soup as follows :
B R A I SE AN D B R AI S I N G — A term app l ied to
,
'

th e s tock o f good veal or chicken seasoned ,

food s tha t are cooke d by a top a n d bo t tom hea t .


w i th sal t pork a n d vege tables th ickened l igh tl y ,

T h e po t or b rai se r has a cover that fi ts t igh tl y w i th rou x s traine d the pu rée th en worked in to
, ,

and a recep tacl e to hol d l igh ted charcoa l o r i t S erved W i th smal l toas t
B U C K —T h e ma l e deer For dishes of B uck see
. .

coke so tha t th e hea t d escends on top of the


,
.

foods The gen e ral way of the average es tab


.
ven ison .

l i s h m e n t however who as a rule a re no t su p


, , , , B U C KWH E AT —A mea l ground fro m the seeds
plied wi th a brai se r i s to take a sh al l ow sauce , of buckwhea t principall y used in cul inary ,

pan o r s a ti to i r i n to which is p l aced the foods


, , form s f o r m ak ing ba t te r cakes For recipes .

toge ther wi th on i on carro t pars l ey bay l eaves , , , see hea d ing o f ba t ter .

and who l e c l oves ( an d according to th e food ,


B U I S S ON —A form resembl ing a bush ; may be
wi th o ther accessories bu t the fi ve men tion ed , m ade by taking t wo ci rcu l ar pieces o f wood
sp ices and vege tab l es are al ways i nc l uded i n a on e h al f the d iame te r o f the o ther used f o r top
-
,

b raise ) and moi stened wi th s tock or sauces as ,


an d bo t tom then nail ing s trips o f laths the d e
,

the recipe may requi re ; th e cover of the s a ti to i r ’


si red heigh t abou t hal f an inch apar t screwing
, ,

i s then pu t on and placed i n th e oven so tha t ,


s mall hoo k s in to the l a ths the spaces be tween ,

i t gives an even heat top bot tom and sides , , . fi lled up wi th b unches of parsley a n d boiled
When the food s are cooked to requi remen t they crayfi sh or lobs ters hanging by th e tail s from
are tak en up and the remain ing li q uor i s called th e hooks .

B R AI SE B raising besides i mpar ting de l ica te


.
,
B UTT E R — T akes a very p rominen t par t in cu l
fl avors to the foods thus cooke d i s a l so an ex , i n a r y mat ters f orm s some speci al bu tte rs use d
,

c e p t i o n al good way of m ak in g tough mea ts for garn ishing and scarcel y en ters a t al l in to
ten d er as the toughes t par ts of beef can be
, wha t are n ow known as
made in to fi n e en t rées by braisin g them S ee -
. B U TTE R C AKE S —Composed of ten pounds of
braised d ishes under headin g of B E E F . flour on e ounce o f sod a on e ounce o f sal t
, ,

B R U N O I SE — Name given to a consom m é wi th m ixe d toge ther d ry , then moi s tene d wi th th ree
“ ”
s mal l cu t vege tables S ee consomme . . egg yolks two ounces o f mel ted bu t te r a n d two
,

B R U S SEL S S PR O U TS C alled ( C H O U X D E - quar ts of bu t termilk ; this i s m ixed a n d well


B RU XELLES ) are sm al l sprou t s tha t g r ow on b roken then i s a d d ed three quar ts of bu t ter
,

th e s talks of cabbages T hey are very green . mil k and on e quar t of swee t mil k thi s brings ,

an d abou t the si ze o f l arge olives when tri mmed . i t to the con sistency o f bi scui t dough ; spread
They make an exce ll en t accompan i men t to ou t on tab l e le t rest ha l f an hour then rolled
, ,
25 T H E C U LI N AR Y H AN D B O O K .

ou t l e t res t anothe r hal f h our ; agai n ro ll ed ou t


, adul te ra ted wi th whea t pea po ta to fl ours ,
, , ,

o u t ou t wi th b i scui t cu t ter a l lowed to raise or cha l k po ta to s tarch and variously colored wi th


, , ,

proof a n d bak ed o n a g ri d dle ye l lo w ch rome c arro t j u ice sa ff ron alkane t


.

AN C H OVY B U TT E R —T wo par ts of bu t ter to


, , , ,

marigo l d fl o w ers a n d ce l and in e j uice .

one par t o f anchovy essence t horoughl y m i xed B U TTER IN E OR M A R GAR I N E — I s a p repara


,

wi th a l i t tl e gra ted Parmesan cheese a n d seas tion of an i ma l fa ts made by working the fa ts ,

o n e d wi t h n u tmeg red pepper an d a d ash of , a t the n atu ral hea t of the an i mal then p ressing ,

l e m o n ju i c e i t by hy d raul ic p ressu re th e oil thu s obtaine d


C R AYF I S H B U TT E R — C r a yfis h shell s and
.
,

i s the n ch urn ed wi th d ilu te d m il k or wate r .

c l aws sl ow l y d ri ed i n t he oven wi t h a l i t tl e B U TTE R B ALL D U C K — A smal l wild d uck of


l obste r coral poun d e d to a pas te th en pu t wi th
, American origi n For r e c e i p e s see “ duc k
,
"

bu t ter a n d si mme re d for a few m inu tes rubbe d C A B B AGE —A s sol d i n ou r marke ts are of th re e
.
.

th rough a fi ne sieve in to col d wa ter t hen ga th col ors whi te green a n d r e d ; ap preciated by
, , ,


ered for u se .
the average gues t i n any of the fo l lo win g fo rms :
L OB S TE R B U T T E R— The h ead and coral of B OI LE D C A B B AGE I f young requi re abou t
bo iled l obs te r wi th i ts equa l w e igh t of bu t te r fi fteen mi nu tes i f o l d t wen ty to thi r ty m inu te s ,

poun d ed t o a paste wi th a d ash o f anchovy are requi red for boil ing They sh ould be cu t .

essence and a l i t tle d ry mus tard t hen rubbed i n quar ters the s talks re m oved an d then the
,
,

through a fi ne sieve ; ga the re d fo r u se l eaves be separa ted I t i s qu i te a com mon .


"

M O N TPE L IE R B U T T E R — B l anch ed wate r


.

thing for the cooks to boi l them si mpl y i n


c ress chervil tar ragon a n d parsl ey wi th h ard
, ,
quar ters wi thou t separa ting the l eaves ; no t
,

boiled egg yolk s a fe w anchovi es gherkin s ,


onl y i s thi s a di r ty way bu t se l do m i s the inn er
, ,
,

cape rs a n d a c l ove o f gar l ic a re poun d e d t o a par t don e til l the ou te r l eaves a re c ooked too
pas te wi th thei r equal weigh t o f bu t ter a l i t tle muc h and rendered tasteless Af te r the l eaves ,
.

t ar ra g on vinegar and l e mon j uice ; when are separate d they sh ould be soak ed i n col d
smooth rubbed th rough a fi n e sieve an d ga th
,
wa ter t o which i s ad d ed sal t ; i f t h i s precau tion
e red for use .
i s neglec ted sl ugs and various smal l in sec ts may
M A I T R E D H OTE L B U TT E R — T o each cup
'

be re tained i n th e l eaves Wh en thoroughly .

of mel ted bu t ter i s added a l arge spoon fu l o f washed pu t t o boi l i n boil in g sal ted wa te r wi th
chopped parsl ey j uice o f t wo l emon s seasoned ,
a small piece of com mon wash ing sod a ; cook ,

wi th sal t red peppe r an d n u tmeg


,
the m wi th the saucepan l id O FF As the smel l
.

PEPP E R B U TT E R —T h ree me d iu m si zed green


.

of b oil in g c abbage o f ten reaches th e gues ts ’

peppe rs pou nded t o a pas te w i th on e poun d of rooms over the k i tchen a piece of s tale b read ,

bu t ter then rubbed th rough a fi ne sieve a n d


,
crus t o r c harcoa l t ied i n a piece of musl in
ga thered for u se boiled wi th the cabbage wil l be foun d to o b v i
R AVI G OTE B UT T E R —B l anched chives pars
.

a te the s mell When d on e they should be ,


.

ley tar ragon and shallo ts poun d e d to a paste


,
turn ed i n to a col ande r and the wa te r p ressed
,

wi th bu t te r l emon j uice and a d ash o f anchovy


,
ou t t hen seasoned wi th sal t peppe r an d bu t , ,

essence t hen r ubbed t h rough a fi n e sieve and


,
ter T he t oo com mon way of sen d ing cab bage .

gath ered f o r u se .
to the t abl e fl oating i n the wa te r i t was boiled
G AR LI C B U TT E R —A fe w c l oves of garl ic are i n can no t be conde mn ed too s trongly .

po unde d to a paste wi th ol ive oi l a n d bu t ter ; B AKED C ABB AG E W I TH H AM Fresh


when smoo th rubbed th rough a fi n e sieve ; ,
boi led c abbage wi th th e wa te r presse d ou t ,

gathered f or use .

mixe d wi th d rawn bu t te r pl aced i n a bak ing


H O R SE R ADI S H B U T T E R — Fou r ounces of
,

pan sprink l ed wi th gra te d cheese and h am , ,


fi ne gra ted horseradi sh to each poun d o f bu t te r bake d served wi th a sl ice of roas t h am on top .
,

pounded to a pas te then rubbe d th rough a


S TEWE D C AB B AG E — Fresh boil ed and pressed
,

sieve and gathere d f o r use M an y peopl e l i k e .

cabbage o u t fi ne th en sau t eed i n bu t te r su r '


this on broile d s teak s i nstead of M ai tre D H Ote l , ,

pl us bu t ter pou red ofl cove re d wi th c ream


bu t ter .
,

— sauce si m mered for a few m i nu tes and serve d


S H RI M P B U T T E R Equal weigh t of sh ri mp ,
.

meat ( canned or fresh ) pounde d to a pas te wi th C REAM,


E D C AB BAG E — C oarsel y S h red cab
bu t ter then rubbed th rough a si eve a n d ga th
,
bage th orough l y washed boiled drain ed th en , , , ,

e red for use m i xed wi th c ream sauce .

D R AWN B UTTE R — H al f a pound of clear S T U F FED C A B B AG E — Who l e cabbage par


.

mel ted bu t ter pu t on fi re i n a s aucepan wi th


, boi led the hea r t removed i t s pl ace fi ll e d wi th , ,

t wo ounce s of fl ou r m ixed toge ther pi n t of ,a s tu fli n g of fi n el y chopped cooked mea t a n d ,

boi l ing wa ter s t i rred i n to i t si m mered for a sausage mea t m ix ed toge ther th e ape r ture
, ,

mi nu te th en read y for u s e covered wi th a sl ic e of sal t p ork ti e d pl ace d


B U TTE R AD UL T E R A T I ON S — Al though on
.
, , ,

i n a saucepan w i th whi te s tock and a l i t tl e


accoun t of th e s t ric t p u r e food l aws are rare sherry win e c over pu t on an d si m mere d till , , ,

still coun t ry bu t ter as i s of ten t o be pu rchase d don e served wi th a good b rown gravy poured
by the s teward on the open marke t i s some ti me s around .
T H E C U L I N AR Y H AN D B O O K . 2 7

BR AI S ED C ABB AG E —C abbage cu t i n halves , wi th fried o r boiled sausages on top a n d a ,

th oroughly pic k e d ove r a n d washe d boiled n o t ,


b ro w n g ravy poure d around .

qui te d one ta k en u p and d raine d th e s t alk


, , C OL E S L AW— Fin el y sh re d cabbage m ixe d wi th
then re move d a n d th e t wo h al ves pu t toge th e r peppe r sal t sugar oil a n d vi negar ; also the
, , ,

and t ied resembl ing the whol e ca b bage b raised , plain sh red cabbage served as an a d j unc t t o
wi th wh i te s toc k for an h our then ta k en u p , , f ried o r s t ewe d oys te rs .

d rained serve d as a vege tabl e or cu t i n shapes C AB BAG E S ALAD — Finel y sh red cabbage some ,

to be use d as a garn i ture bacon cu t i n d ice a n d f ried ; wh ile s till i n th e


FR I E D C AB B AG E W I T H B A C ON — F resh
.

pan equa l par ts of wa ter and v inegar wi th a


, ,

bo iled pressed and season ed cabbage o u t fi n e


, , , season ing o f sal t and peppe r a d d ed to i t boile d , ,

f rie d in bacon fa t se rve d wi th a sl ice of boi led coole d then m ixe d wi th the cabbage
, .

bacon on t op . R E D C ABBAG E SA L AD —T h e c a b bage fi nel y


C A B B AG E T I MB ALE S —C abbage prepared and washed d rain ed then covere d wi th v i negar
, , ,

cooked the same as for boiled cabbage then dre d ged wi th sal t a n d peppe r and s teepe d f o r a
wel l presse d fi n el y chopped and m ixed wi th
,
f e w hours then d rain e d a n d m ixe d wi th F rench
,

l igh tly fried m inced on ion pu t i n a s a fito i r wi th , dressin g ; se rved garn i shed wi th sh red cele ry
a l i t tle b u t ter an d si mmered wi th the l id on fo r i n m ayonn ai se .

fi f teen minu tes th en allowed to cool whil e ,


H O T S LAW — Finel y shred cabbage washed
cool ing equal par ts of sausage m ea t and f resh
, and drain ed pu t i n saucepan wi th bu t te r
, ,

bread crumbs w i th a fe w bea ten eggs and l id pu t on a n d sim mered til l nearl y d on e ,

ch oppe d parsley are thoroughl y mixe d toge ther ; water vinegar sal t peppe r and a l i t tl e sugar
, , , ,

th e ti mb al e mol d s are then bu t tere d a piece o f , then added a n d fi n ish cook in g til l ten d er ;
,

bacon pu t in the sid es l ined wi th bl anched


, fi n ished by working i n som e bea ten eggs til l
cabbage l eaves the c abbage a n d st u ffi ng then
,
sm oo th yellow a n d c ream y
, .

fi lled i n th e m ol d s i n al te rna te l ayers t il l f ull , PIC KLED C A R B A C E — P in el y sh red red cabbage


an other piece of bacon pu t on th e top the ti m , thoroughly d re d ged wi th sal t a n d pl aced in large
bal es then bake d i n a m od era te oven f o r abou t colander o r si eve to d rai n for seve ral hours ,

an hou r th e bacon remove d cabbage turne d


, , then wash ed d rai ne d and pac k ed i n j ars wi th
, ,

ou t and th e i nne r piece of bacon remove d a f e w whol e peppers bay leaves a n d a l i ttl e ,

se rve d wi th a goo d brown gravy poure d ove r thyme th e j ar then fi ll e d u p wi th whi te wi n e


,

and around .
vinegar con tain i ng bee t j uice ( or a boi led b ee t
BAKE D C AB B AG E W IT H C H EE S E — Fresh may be pu t i n wi th the cabbage ) cove r of j a r ,

boiled and p ressed cabbage season e d wi th sal t , pu t on kep t i n a co l d pl ace ; rea d y fo r use i n
,

pepper a n d bu t ter arrange d i n l ayers i n bakin g , abou t a mon t h .

pan each l aye r sprin k le d wi th gra te d ch eese


, , P IC KLE D C AB B AG E — T wo gallon s of fi nely
top l ayer wi th gra ted cheese and brea d c rumbs ch oppe d cabbage on e poun d o f choppe d on ion s , ,

m i xe d sprin k le d wi th bu t ter b aked and served


, , hal f poun d each of r e d and green peppers cu t
( call ed C abbage au G ratin ) .
i n sh re d s mi xe d togeth er w i th on e poun d of
PA U PIETTE S O F C AB B AGE— B lanch ed cab
, ,

sal t pl aced in a c rock and s too d over n igh t ;


,

bage leaves tak en abou t f ou r thi ck the ou ter


, , th en taken ou t pu t i n col ande r an d well pr e s
,

one being the l arges t th e i nner on e spread wi th , sed ; the n pu t i n c rock i n l ayers a n d on each ,

sausage mea t m ixed wi th boile d rice shallo ts , , l ayer sprinkl e m us tar d see d s a n d a few cl ove s
chopped parsl ey and ch i ves then rol led up a n d , til l al l i n cover e d wi th cider v i negar ; when
,

ti ed arranged i n a s a ti to i r t ill ful l l i t tl e bro th
, , vinegar si nks the n ex t d ay fi ll i t u p so th a t
, ,

ad d e d cover pu t on and si m me red til l don e ;


, th e cabbage i s covered ; ready for use i n t wo
serve d wi th brown gravy o r a s a garn i ture .
days
B OILE D C ABB AGE G E R M AN S T YLE —T h e
.

, S AU E R K R AUT — Th i s i s fi nel y sh re d cabbage


cabbag e b oiled a n d p resse d choppe d th en , , pac k e d i n barrel s in layers wi th sal t a n d all owe d
m ixed wi th s mal l pi eces o f boiled b acon and to sour I t i s a n asty smell in g t roublesom e
.

Alleman d e sauce th in g to a t ten d to i n ho te l l ife a n d can reall y


C AB B AG E W I T H EG G S — F resh boiled and
.
,

be bough t be t te r and ch eape r than b y hom e


pressed cabbage fi nel y chopped placed i n a , prepara tion When to be coo k e d i t i s thor
.
,

s a i i to i r wi th a l i t tl e d rawn bu t te r and vinegar , oughly washed a n d sl owly b oi led fo r t wo o r
s ti rre d over a q u ick fi re f o r a fe w m i nu tes til l th re e hou rs wi th carro t on ion s tuck wi th clove s ,

smoo th an d c reamy served g arn i shed wi th and a p iece o f ham o r bacon I f to be serve d .

quartered har d boiled eggs a n d sprink l ed wi th wi th fran k f ur ters o r sausages th ey are boile d , ,

fi nely choppe d eggs . in i t .

ST EWED RED C A B B AGE WI TH S AU SAG E S CAF E — P ron ounced K AF F AY T he n am e use d .

-
Shred the cabbage as for cold sl a w wash , , to sign i fy a restauran t or pl ace where co ffee i s
drain p l ace i t i n a saucepan wi th bu t ter and
, to b e ob tained I t i s the Fren ch wor d for .

si mme r i t wi th t h e l id on for hal f an hour th en ,


co ffee o f ten seen on th e bill of fare as ca f é
,

pu t in some sl ices of sal t pork and wh i te s toc k noi r wh ich mean s black co ffee or s t ron g co ff ee
"
.

and cook til l done ; t ak e up and d ra i n ; serve C AS E S —Are fan cifu l sh aped pieces o f paper
2 8 T H E C U L I N ARY H AN D B O O K .

made to hol d an d se rve de l ica te foods ; also wi th m ince d t r u fii e peel ings and pars l ey gar ,

m ade by the cook o f rice po ta toes t urn i ps , , ,


n i s h e d wi th sau t ee d oysters an d the m ush rooms .

e tc ; m os t o f ten seen on the bil l of fare as E N


. B AKE D C ALF S H EAD S AUC E M AIN T E ’

C AI S SE . N ON — Cal f s head mea t cu t i n sl ices dippe d


'
,

C AI L L ES — French n am e for quail s ; when '


i n D U x e l l e s sauce then i n crac k e r c rumbs , ,

spo k en the t wo E L L S a re silen t . then breaded and arrange d i n a bu t tere d baking


A L I P E E AND C ALI PA S H —T h e fi rs t i s the pan b rushed ove r wi th bu tter bak e d till bro wn
, , ,

n ame given to the mea t a t tache d t o the l ower , serve d wi th a M ain ten on sauce poure d o ver .

“ "
a n d th e las t to th e mea t a t tache d to upper shell s See sauces .

o f a tur tle C ALF S H EAD WI T H B AC O N AN D PA R S



.

C A LF— I s th e n ame given to par ts of th e youn g L EY SA U CE — C alf s h ead m ea t c u t i n sl ices ’

o f the c o w ( in a cul inary way ) such as th e h ea d , an d made h ot i n v él o u té sauce con taining


fee t liver tail h ear t b rain s kidn eys an d
, .
, , , chopped parsley ; serve d wi th some of the sauce
swee tbrea d s ; th e o ther par ts o r m ea t i s c all ed poure d over and garn ished wi th t wo th i n sl ices
,

veal for recipes of wh ich see “ Veal "


. of boile d bacon or pork .

C ALF S H EAD —T h e head as purchased sh oul d '


C A L F S HEAD AN D T ON G UE P IQ U AN TE ,

be le f t en ti re wi th si mply th e hai r cl ean ed o ff , S A UC E — S lices of cal f s head mea t made ho t '

and i f i n th e coun try town s or resor ts the cook


, , i n pi q uan te sauce ; served wi th some of the -

has to clean i t h i msel f plunge i t in to boil in g , sauce pou red over d ecora ted wi th scallops o f ,

wa ter con tain ing com mon washing soda l e t i t ,


the tongue and garnished wi th pieces of the
,

remain for a f e w m in u tes then scrape i t per , brain b readed and fried .

f e c t l y clean wi th a fi sh scal er or cu r ry co mb
'
-
, C ALF S H EAD WI T H FI N ANC I E R E R A
then singe i t l i k e poul try ; the head i s th e n spl i t G O U T — Sl ices of ca l f s head mea t arranged i n ’

i n hal ves the brain s removed washed p u t t o


, , , a sa u toi r wi th carrot on i on parsley bay l eaves , , ,

boil i n col d wa ter wi th sal t and vege tabl es ,


and cl oves mois tened wi th con som mé a n d
,

scu m remove d as i t rises si m m ered til l te nder , . sherry win e quickly b raised for an hou r mea t
, ,

taken up a n d pu t i n to a pan of cold wa te r an d ,


taken up th e brai se s t rai ne d sk i m me d a n d re
, ,

al l bon es re moved wh ich come away e asil y ; d u c e d to a glaze th en s trai ned ove r th e mea t ,

t hen skin t he roof of the mou th an d pu t th e , se rve d wi th a fancy c ro u ton a t ends of the d ish ,

hea d and tongue be t ween t wo boar d s w i th a an d garn ished w i th cocks combs and kernel s -
,

weigh t on top and pres s til l col d The s tock , . pieces of swee tbreads mush rooms and small ,

wh ich th e head w as boil ed i n is good to u se f o r quenelles made ho t i n M adeira sauce .

soups and whi te sauces The pressed mea t w il l . C ALF S H EAD S AU C E I T ALIEN N E — C al f s

,

“ "
be cal le d calf s hea d mea t for the followin g ’
hea d mea t in s l ices made ho t i n b rown I tal ian ,

r e c rp e s : sauce ; served wi th th e sauce poured over and ,

C ALF S H E A D B AKE D W IT H C H IPOLATA


garn ished wi th fanc y po ta toes .

G AR N I S H C a l f s h ea d mea t c u t i n por ti on s C ALF S H EAD AN D B RAIN S M U SH R O O M





,
,

seasoned wi th sal t pepper nu t me g and po w , , S AUC E — S lice s of calf s head mea t made ho t '

d ered t h ym e a r r a n g e d in ba k ing pan wi th sm a ll


, i n mush room sauce ; served wi th a sl ice o f
on ion s mushroom s s mall veal sausages pieces
, , , boile d brain s on top th e brain s decora ted wi th ,

of ha m a n d ch icken blanched a n d peeled ch es t , sl ices of green pickl es garn ished wi th bu t t on ,

n u ts a n d smal l balls o f carro ts a n d turn i ps t h e


, , mush room s a n d sauce pou re d around
,
.

whol e cove re d wi th a rich b rown sauce ba k ed , C ALF S H E AD T U R T L E S T Y L E —Ca l f s h ead


,

till th e garn ish i s d on e a nd the h e ad gl azy ; m ea t cu t i n squares m ade h o t wi th s tone d ,

serve d wi th a l i t tl e o f the sau ce pou red over ol ives bu t ton mush room s small forcemea t
, ,

a n d surroun d e d wi th the garn i sh .


ball s a n d h ard boiled yolks of eggs i n equal
,

C ALF S H EA D B A KE D E N GLIS H S TYLE


, par ts of tomato an d m ad ei ra sauces ; serve d ,

C al f s head mea t cu t i n sl ices arranged i n b a k


, su rrounded wi th the garn ish


C A LF S H E AD S AUC E PO U LETT E —Sl ices
.

ing pan w i th a season in g of sal t pepper n u t , ,


me g an on ion s tuck wi th cloves covered wi th


, ,
'
of cal f s head m ea t made ho t i n poule t te sauce ;
a wh i te sauce m ade from the s toc k the head serve d garn ishe d wi th balls o f po ta toes sprin k l ed
was boiled i n ba k ed for h alf an h our ; served , wi th pars l ey a n d bu t ton m ush rooms .

wi th so me of the sauce pou re d over sprinkle d , B R AI SED C ALF S H EA D WITH VEA L '

wi th parsley a n d garn ished wi th quenelles o f Q U EN E LLE S — T h e mea t p repared a n d '

b rain f orce mea t a n d qu ar tere d eggs .


b raise d the sa me as given f o r wi th fi n a n c i er e
'
C ALF S H EAD B AKE D GE R M AN STYLE , garn i sh serve d dippe d in the gl a ze a n d gar ,

C al f s hea d mea t cu t in por tion p i e c e s s e a s o n e d


, , n i s h e d wi th s mal l qu en elles of veal d ippe d i n


arranged in pan wi th mush rooms pieces o f , R avigote sauce al terna tel y wi th scallops o f the
swee tbread s a n d the tongue cu t in th in sl ice s
, , tongue .

covere d wi th a sauce B o u r g i gn o t te a n d a sprink '


C AL F S H E AD F R IE D T OM AT O S AU C E ,

l ing o f Parmesan cheese baked hal f an h our ; , C al f s head mea t seasoned wi th sal t peppe r

served wi th som e o f the sauce poured over ,


and nu t meg d ipped i n a mi x tu re of f ou r beaten
,

d e corated wi th the sl ices of tongue sprinkle d ,


eggs yolks of t wo h ar d boiled eggs rubbed
,
T H E C U L I N AR Y H AN D B O O K . 2 9

th rough a sieve o r g ra te r and hal f a cu p of ,


so me small quenelles o f brai n f orcem ea t added
mel te d bu t ter then bread ed wi th grated f resh
, to the soup a n d served .

'
c ru mbs or di p pe d i n ba t ter a n d fried ; se rved
, CA LF S H EAD S O U P P ORT U G U E SE STYLE ,

wi th toma to sauce poured under .


-T h e s tock the hea d was boile d i n s trained
C AL F S H EAD AN D B RAI N S S A U C E P O I V

,
in to a good veal s toc k I n wh ich i s boil ed a ,

R AD E Prepared a n d frie d same as the pre j ar d in iere of vege tables some toma toes a n d ,

ce d ing i n c ru mbs Poivrade sauce poure d un d e r , ,


barl ey thickene d wi th roux ,
when n early
a n d th e en d s o f dis h garn ish e d wi th t h e brain s done th e cal f s hea d mea t and tongue wi th a ’

'
cu t small an d m ixe d in a th ic k Ravigote sauce . l i t tl e cal f s l iver bl anche d al l cu t i n sma l l ,

FR I C ASS E E O F C ALF S H EAD WIT H '


squares ad d e d to the soup a n d se rve d
,
.

VEGETA B LE S Cal f s head mea t cu t i n sl ices ’


M OC K T U R T LE S O UP T H I C K — Sl iced car ,

wi th the tongue made ho t i n a rich Al l emande ,


rots tu rnips on ion s and shallo ts s a u tée d i n
, ,

sauce served wi th th e sauce poured over and


, b u t te r then pu t i n a sauce pan wi th some
,

garnishe d wi th ball s of carro t tu rn ip po tatoes , ,


browned veal and beef bon es a l i t tl e vi negar , ,

and g reen peas tha t have been bo il ed separa tely swee t basil thyme bay l eaves mace a n d whol e
, , ,

i n con som mé wi th a l i t tl e sugar . cloves fi l l up wi th s toc k boil up s k i mme d


, , , ,

' '
B OI LE D C ALF S H EA D SAU C E VI N AI ,
then a d d a cal f s head and bo i l i t til l tender
GRETTE — The m ea t and tongue cu t i n sl ices , tak e i t ou t when don e p u t i t i n co l d wate r and ,

mad e ho t i n wh i t e s toc k ; served al te rn a tel y remove the bon es thicken th e s toc k wi th roux
wi th vin aigre t te sauce pou re d ove r a n d gar i n to the soup tureen pu t th e cal f s head cu t up ’

n i s h e d wi th H ollan d aise po ta toes . small som e yol k s of hard boiled eggs sl ices of
, ,

CA L F S H EA D WI T H O LIVE S TOM AT O ,
the wh i te o f egg smal l quenelles o f brai n force ,

S AU CE — Sl ices o f cal f s h ea d m ea t si mmere d ’


mea t sal t peppe r l emon j uice chopped pars
, , , ,

i n tom a to sauce ; served wi th i t and garni sh ed ,


ley and sh erry win e then s train the thicken e d ,

wi th s ton e d o l i ves tha t have been blanche d in s toc k i n to i t and se rve .

con sommé . C LE AR M OC K T U RTL E — A consomm é made


'
S T U F FED C ALF S H EAD S AU C E PAP I ,
of vea l an d chic k en s tock i n wh ich has been
L O T T E —C alf s head mea t cu t i n por tion pieces

boil e d a cal f s head and fee t th e c on sommé ’

d iamond shape thic k ly sprea d wi th brain f orce


,
flavored wi th essence o f anchovies swee t basil , ,

mea t ( see b r a i n s ) a r r a n g e d in a b u t t e r e d bak ing


,
mush roo m c atsup a l i t tl e cu rry pow d e r and ,

pan spri n k led wi th fresh b rea d c rumbs a n d


, lemon peel ; serve wi th small quen elles o f brain
bu t te r sligh tl y mois tene d wi th s tock ba k e d f orcem e a t the calf s hea d cu t i n d i c e a n d fi n ish
'
, , , ,

slowly t ill b rown ; se rved wi th a sauce P a p i l o t t e - wi th a li t tl e b ran d y .

poured aroun d th e bas e .


C ALF S E A R S B OILE D S AUC E V I LLE R O I

RA GO U T O F C ALF S H E AD AN D TON G U E ' -


T h e ea rs cu t o ff close to the head before th e
— Sam e as cal f s head tu r tl e s tyl e a d d i n g ’

, ,
h ea d i s spl i t for boi lin g thoroughl y washe d , ,

a n d boiled i n wh i te s toc k wi th vege tabl es a n d


the t ongue cu t i n scallops and garn i sh in g t h e ,

ends o f the dish wi th c ro u tons .


spices ta k en u p ; served wi th V i l l e r o i sauce
,

' poure d ove r .

C AL F S H EA D C U R R IE D WIT H R IC E
C A L F S E A RS F R I ED T O M AT O S A U C E

Slices o f the meat made ho t i n a good cu rry ,

T h e ears boiled as above then b rea d ed and


sauce made ei the r of th e s tock th e head was
,
,

f rie d re tain ing thei r shape a s much as pos


bo il ed in o r veal or ch ic k en S t oc k a bor d e r o f ,

d r y boiled rice arrange d a s a bo rder on the


, ,
sibl e serve d wi th tomato sauce pou red around
a n d garn ishe d wi th slices of b roiled tom atoe s
d i sh wi th th e cu rri e d mea t i n the cen te r
,
tha t h ave been sprinkled wi th cheese wh ile
.

OM E LET WITH C A LF S HE AD Four fif th s ’


- -
broil in g .

of bea ten eggs one fi f th of col d consommé and


,
-
, C ALF S EA R S ST U FFE D S A UC E B ORD E

the b rai n s of the head cl ean e d bea ten to a , L AI S E —The ears boile d n o t qui te done taken ,

pul p l i t tle chopped parsley sal t pepper a n d


, , , u p s tu ff e d wi th a veal s tu ffi ng s mooth i ng the
, ,

n u tm eg al l m ix ed toge ther ; smal l squares o f


,
f ace f rom th e openin g to th e tip arranged i n a ,

c a t f s hea d mea t ma d e ho t i n m a d ei ra sauce ;


s a fi to i r moi s ten ed wi th c o n s o mm e é and si m


,

the omele t mi x ture f ri ed i n form encl osing , mered till d on e ; serve d wi th B ordel aise sauce
som e o f th e mea t i n sauce tu rned on t o th e , pou red ove r and aroun d .

d ish s l i t m ade i n th e top of the omele t more


, , R AG O U T OF C AL F S E AR S IN C R O U STADES ’

meat pu t i n serve d wi th some of the mea t and —Cal f s ears boi led ti l l ten d er cu t i n smal l
'

sauce poured around .


squares s au t ée d i n bu t te r wi th m ush rooms
, ,
'
C A L F S H E AD S OU P W IT H Q U E NELLE S s ton e d ol ives pi eces of brain s and tongue bu t
, ,

T h e s toc k the h ead was boi le d i n a n d an equal the ears pred omin ating ; wh en colore d su rplus ,

quan ti ty of chicken s tock m ixe d rice boi led in , bu t ter d rained o ff moisten ed wi th m adei ra ,

i t till so f t then all rubbed th rough a purée sieve


,
, sauce fi lled in to paste c r o fis ta d e s and served
, .

the pu rée thus ob tained mi xed wi th an equal C ALF S E AR S T U R T L E S TYL E — T he ears


q uan ti ty of supr eme sauce a n d b rough t to the b o l i e d and l e f t whole then mad e h o t wi th whole ,

b oil cal f s head mea t i n s ma ll s q uares a n d


, , s toned ol ives bu t ton mush rooms sma ll force , ,


30 T H E C U L I N ARY H AN D B O OK .

mea t ball s of the brai ns and h ard boi l ed yolks ,


-
sugar to taste l i t t l e whi te win e and l emon ,

of eggs i n e q ua l par ts of tomato a n d m adeira j uice brough t slowl y to the boil wi thou t sti r
,

sauces ; served the yol k of egg i n the open ing


, ring then allo we d to sim mer till the coagula
,

of th e ear and surroun d e d wi th the garn ish


, . ti on tu rn s a grey co l or abou t t wen ty m inu tes , ,

C ALF S E AR S WI T H T R U FFLES S AU C E

, then s traine d a n d res trained through a j ell y


T R I AN O N — The ears boiled and l e f t whole , bag ; when nearly cool fi lled i n t o gl asses or ,

the par t j u s t below the tip s tud d e d wi th pieces mol d s a n d serve d when set a n d cold
, .

of d iamond — shape d t ru ffl e and th e opening o f '


C A L F S H EA RT S T U FF E D M AD E I R A ,

the ear wi th a whole gla zed tru ffle ; arranged S AU C E — T he hear ts soaked a n d th e vein s
i n a sa u toi r wi th a very l i t tl e con som mé the , cu t away pu t i n boil ing wa te r a n d si mmere d
,

ears brushed over wi th gl aze made h o t and , , fo r ten m inu tes then re f reshed i n col d water , ,

serve d wi th a T ri anon sauce pou re d around . taken up a n d wipe d dry th e cavi ty m ade and ,

C AL F S B R AIN S —F o r the severa l r e c e i pe s of



fi lled wi th a poul try s tu ffing crust of bread tie d ,

wh ich see hea d i n g o f brain s . ove r the opening t o keep the s tu ffi ng in roas ted ,

C ALF S FEE T — T h e hoof is spl i t w i th a kn ife


'
,
a n d bas ted wi th g ravy till done ; s erved spl i t i n

then trea ted the sam e as cal f s head ; when .



halves d ressing side up wi th M adei ra sauce
, ,

don e th e bones re moved and the mea t p ressed


, ,
pou red aroun d and garn i shed wi th cro u tons .

be t ween boa rds C AL F S H EAR T S T U FFE D AN D B R AI SE D


FR I C A S S E E O F C ALF S F E ET —T h e col d
.


— P r e p a r e a n d s t u fi e d as above bu t the opening
, ,

mea t c u t i n n ea t shaped pieces ma d e ho t i n , covered and tied wi th a sl ice of sa l t pork ;


Pascal in e sauce ; se rved garn ish ed w i th bu t ton arranged i n a sau toir wi th sl ices of car ro t ,

m u s h r o o n s a n d s mall Vic tori a potatoes .


onion s parsley bay leaves and whol e cloves
, , ,

C ALF S FEE T B OI LE D P O IVR AD E S AU C E


, moistened wi th s tock braised an d bas ted til l


—Neatly tri m med piece s of th e c o l d meat ma d e ,

ten d er taken up the braise s trai ned s k i m med


, , ,

ho t i n whi te s tock se rve d wi th Poi vrade sauce a n d adde d to a M adei ra sauce reduced to a h al f ,

pou red ove r a n d garn i she d wi th fancy cro u tons .


gl aze ; th e hear t serve d c u t in halves wi th some
FR I E D C AL F S FE ET I N B ATTE R ITA LIAN

,
of the gla ze pou red round the edges and gar ,

S A U C E — C o l d cook ed fee t seasoned wi th sal t , , h ished wi th Pari sienn e po tatoes .

pepper and l emon j uice dipped i n plain bat ter , ,


C A LF S H EAR T L ARDED S AU C E AN D A

,
f ri e d ; serve d wi th b rown I tal ian sauce poured
L OUS E — T h e top of the hear t l arde d wi th
around a n d garn i shed wi th small po tato
,
s trips of seasoned l ar d ing pork then prepare d
c roque t tes .
,

an d s tu ff ed arrange d i n a sa u toi r and braise d


C AL F S FEET S TEA M ED S A U C E R EM O U
’ ,

,
as i n th e p receding r e c e i p e ; served the whol e
L AD E — Sl i ces of the col d mea t s teame d ,

hear t poin t up wards wi th Andal usian sauce


served wi th Remoul a d e sauce poured over and ,

poured ove r and garnished a t the ends wi th a


garn ished wi th H ollan d aise potatoes .
,

mace d oin e of vege tabl es .

C AL F S FE ET WI T H M U S H R O OM S S AU C E

C AL F S K IDN EY S L AR D E D
,

P O U LE T TE Squares o f col d mea t m ade ho t



M AD E IR A ,

i n Poule t te sauce ; se rved wi th th e sauce a n d S AU C E — The k i d n eys blanched for a few m i n


,

garn ished wi th b u tton mush room s tha t h ave u tes then freshened in cold water and a f te r
,

been ligh tly f ried i n bu t ter ward s wiped d ry larded wi th seasone d s trips ,

C R O U S TAD E S O F C ALF S FE ET — S mal l


.

’ of pork arrange d i n a sa u toi r wi th a d ash o f


,

square s o f th e cold m ea t ma d e ho t i n a sauce tarragon v i n e ga r po w d e r e d mixed h e r b s m e l te d , ,

prepared from the s tock they were boile d in bu t ter and con so mmé qu ic k ly braised and ,
,

brough t to a si m me r then i s a d d ed some fi nel y gla zed ; served on a bed of mashed pota toes
,

m ince d yolks o f eggs a l i t tle d ry m ustar d sal t wi th M adei ra sauce poured aroun d .

B R OC H ETT E O F C ALF S K IDN E Y S — See


, , ,

red pepper whi te win e and l emon j uice q uickl y


, ,
"
r e c e i e under head of B roche tte
re d uced fille d i n to pas te cro u s tades and served
, . p .

'
C AL F S FEET

CR E P I N E T T E S S AU C E ,
C ALF S K ID N EY S B R O ILE D P AR S L E Y ,

PR OVENC ALE —T he cold m eat of th e fee t B U TTE R T he kidneys bl anched an d coo l ed


-
,

cu t u p smal l season ed wi th sal t pepper l emon then cu t i n t wo l eng th wise season ed wi th sal t ,

j uice a n d n u t meg m i xed wi th an equal quan ti ty


, , ,

,
and peppe r dipped i n mel ted bu t ter rolled i n
, ,

o f veal or pork sausage mea t m a d e in to shapes ,


fresh bread c rumbs broil e d till done ; serve d ,

of sm al l H amburg s teaks b roile d served wi th ,


on toas t w i th M ai tre D H ot e l bu t ter poured .

Proven c al e sauce pou red aroun d .


ove r them and garn ishe d wi th c ress and l emon
,
.

C ALF S FEE T ] E LLY — R a w c l ean ed c alf s C ALF S KIDN E YS S AU T E S W IT H M U S H


' ' ’

f ee t chopped u p pu t to boil i n cold water wi th


, R O O M S — T h e kidneys ligh tl y bl anched and
a s tick of c in n amon a n d the ri nd o f a l emon ,
refreshed cu t i n small sl ices sau t ee d w i th
, ,

boile d ti l l s o f t a n d th e l iquo r wel l re d uce d


, ,
minced on ion and sl iced bu t ton mushroom s ;
strain all owe d to ge t col d then al l fa t a n d
, ,
when don e sprin k l ed wi th pars l ey sal t peppe r
, , ,

ski mmings remove d th e l iquor wh ich sh oul d , and a d ash of tarragon vin egar m ois tened wi th ,

have becom e l ik e j el ly the n pu t back in to a a l i t tle C olbe r t sauce and ser v ed on a toas t
brigh t ke t tle wi th some bea ten whi tes of eggs ,
garn i shed wi th fancy cro u ton s .
32 T H E C U L I NARY H AND B OOK .

LI VE R F ORCE M E AT B ALL S — M ade the same a fe w who l e spices bay l eaves vege tab l es and , ,

“ "
a s l ive r cheese above bu t a d ding som e bread , a dash of vi negar t i l l tender taken up pu t i n to , ,

crumbs raw yol k s of eggs and choppe d parsley ;


, cold wate r an d a ll rough fa t and ski n remove d ,

when th oroughl y m i xe d made in to ba l ls and then presse d be t ween boards till col d ( f o r t l z e
“ '

poached t ill done i n wh i te s t o ck ; served wi th a f o l l o w i ng r ec ip e s t h e a b o v e d i r e c t i o n s w il l b e


“ "
H ol lan d aise sauce T he German s call th is dish . ca lled p r ep a r e d ) when cold spl i t i n sl ices ,


LI V E R KL O SSE . dipped i n me l ted bu t t e r then i n seasoned b read ,

T I M B ALE O F C ALF S L IV E R P IQ U AN T '


,
c ru mb s broiled ; served wi th C olber t sauce
,

— “
S AU C E T h e l ive r c hee se above fi ll e d i n to ”
pou re d aroun d Th ey may also be served wi th .

timbal e molds and s teamed or bake d till don e ;


,
m ai tre d h Ote l bu t ter and garn ished wi th fancy

served wi th piquan t sauce pou red over . po ta toes .

'
C AL F S L I VER Q UE N E LLE S I N C R U M B S C AL F S SW E ETB RE AD S S AU T E s WIT H


Th e f orcemea t m ix t u re above shaped l i k e "
,
PE AS —P repa red swee tb reads spl i t and sau t ee d
eggs be tween t wo spoon s p oach ed t aken up , , , in bu t ter ; se rved on a b ed of mashed potatoes ,

and rolled i n fried b read cru mbs ; served gar wi th green peas i n sauce poured around .

n i s h e d wi th parsley a n d lemon and A ll emande ,


C ALF S S W E E TB RE AD S IN C RE A M ON

sauce served separa tely . T OAS T — Prepare d swee tbread s c u t i n sl ices


P OTT ED C AL F S L IVE R W I TH ASPI C ’
c rosswi se made h ot in re d uced cream ; served
,

L Y — S l ices of l ive r fried in bacon fa t wi th o n toas t sprinkle d wi th fi nel y chopped parsl ey


'

j E L , ,

m inced on ion s an d m ush rooms t aken up and ,


wi th some o f the cream poured around .

poun d ed to a pas te wi th win e powdered m ixe d , C ALF S SWEE TB R EAD S F R I E D S AU C E


herbs sal t pepper a n d n u t meg then rubbed


, , , PE R IG U E U X — Prepared swee tbread s spli t ,

th rough a fi n e sieve wi th i ts equal weigh t o f fa t seasoned wi th sal t pepper and n u tmeg d ipped , ,

bacon ; in to th i s purée i s then m ixed a m ince d i n fl ou r then i n beaten eggs f r i e d a go l d e n


, ,

clove of gar l ic some h am a n d bacon fa t cu t i n


, co l or ; served wi th Pe rigueux sauce and gar ,

s mal l dice ; wh en thoroughly inco rporate d . h i shed wi th fancy cro u ton s .

fi ll ed in to bread pan s cove red wi th thick bu t , C AL F S SWEETB RE AD S WI T H B R OWN


'

t e r e d paper th e fi l le d pan s pu t in to roas ting B U T TE R — P repared s wee tb read s sp l i t sea


,

,
,

pan s con tai n in g col d wa ter ha l f way up pu t in , s o n e d wi th sal t pepper a n d powde red herbs ,

oven an d sl owl y baked til l don e ( abou t t wo rol l ed i n fl ou r fried i n bu t ter ; se rved wi t h ,

hou rs ) taken ou t all owed to par tl y cool then


, , , b rown bu t ter made by mel tin g bu t te r to the ,

tu rn e d ou t tri mm ed ; served cold i n s l ices


, ,
froth ing poin t then adding l emon j uice an d ,

decorated wi th aspic j el ly .
chopped parsl ey ; poure d ove r the swee tb reads
C ALF S T ON G U E B R AI SE D T O M A T O

, on ho t di sh .

S AU CE — T h e tongues bl anched and freshen e d .


C AL F S '
S WE E TB R E AD C R O Q U E TT E S
then l arde d wi th s tri ps o f seasone d l ar d ing por k ,
W ITH PE A S — Prepare d s wee tbread s cu t i n to
arranged i n sa u toi r wi th carro t on ion parsley , , ,
sma l l dice mixe d wi th h alf the amoun t of gra ted
,

bay l eaves a n d whol e cl oves m oi s ten e d wi th ,


boiled ham a fe w m inced sau t eed shall o ts and ,

s toc k braised and glazed ; served i n sl ices cu t


,
mush rooms tho rough l y heate d i n a thick V é ,
lengthwise wi th toma to sauce , .

l ou t e sauce season ed wi th l e mon j uice an d


C A LF S T O N G U E S AU T E V IN A I G R E TT E

,

,
n u t meg poure d i n to a bu t tered shallow pa n
, ,
T h e tongues blanch ed freshen ed an d sk inne d , ,
smoo thed wi th a k n i f e cove red wi th bu ttered ,

then cu t l eng th wi se i n sl ices sau t eed i n bu t ter ,


pape r ; when cold cu t i n to pieces of an equal

wi th minced sh all ots ; served wi th sauce vinai si ze shaped b rea d ed fried served wi th green
, , , ,

gret te .

peas i n whi te sauce or h al f gl aze as a border


C ALF S T ON GU E S AU C E T A RTA R E — The
,
'
,
w i th frill s i n the c roque t te s .

b rai sed tongues above allo wed to become cold ; '


,
R I S S O LE S O F C ALF S SWEETB READ S
serve d i n sl ices wi th tar tare sauce garn ished ,
W I TH V E GETA B LES —Th e croque tte mi x
wi th s trips of pickles
ture above when cold c u t ou t and formed i n to
.

, ,
C ALF S T ON G U E FR I E D S A U C E R OB E RT

— T h e tongue boile d wi th vege tables he rbs a n d


,
bal ls si z e of smal l egg ; t wo shee ts of pu ff paste
,

,
roll ed ou t the bal l s pu t i n sec tion s all over one ,
spices s k inn ed cu t l ength wise in sl ices b read ,
, ,
covered wi th th e o the r e d ges pressed down , ,
ed fr i ed ; served wi th a Rober t sauce poured
,

unde r .
then s tamped ou t wi th a fancy cu t t e r arranged ,

'
C ALF S TON G U E WIT H P OTATOE S M U S H on a bak i ng s hee t washed over baked ; served , ,
,

R O OM SAU CE — T h e tongues boil ed and skin garn i shed w i th a macedoine of vege tab l es i n
n e d as i n t h e p receding reci pe then cu t i n l ong b rown sauce .

slices d ippe d i n g l aze arran ged on a bed of R I SSO LE T T E S are the same as ri s soles bu t ,

mashe d po ta toes wi th m ush room sauce pou re d


, ,

smalle r .

C A LF S SW E E TB R E AD S IN S H E L L—The
,
'
a round .

C ALF S SWEE TBRE AD S B R OI LE D S A U C E


'
,
c roque t te m ix ture above fi lled i n to bu t t ere d ,

C OL BE R T — T h e swee tbrea d s soake d i n col d scall op shells sprinkle d wi th g ra ted b r e ad


sal ted water for a few hours th en boi l ed wi th , c ru mbs and m el ted bu t ter browned i n the oven ,
T H E C U L I N ARY H AN D B O O K .
33

an d served ( ca ll ed SW E ETB R E AD S E N
, ,
N I S H E D — Prepared sweetbread s l arded wi th
C OQ U I LLE ) .
seasoned s trips of bacon then arranged i n a ,

S C ALL OP E D C A L F S S WEETB R EADS '


sa u toi r on a b e d of th inl y sl iced vege tables ,

Th e same as th e preceding w i th th e addi tion , wi th bay l eaves and on e o r t wo cloves covere d ,

of grated Parmesan cheese m ixed wi th the brea d wi th thin sl ices of bacon m ois ten e d wi th stock , ,

c rumbs ; served i n the shell ( calle d SW E E T , , covered wi th bu t tered paper l id pu t on and ,

B REA D S E N C O QU I LLE A U G R A T I N ) .
br aised q uickl y for hal f an hou r wi th fre q uen t
P ATT I E S OF S C R AMB L E D C ALF S SW E ET

bas ting ; when done the l id pape r a n d bacon


B R E AD S — Prepared swee tbreads cu t in to sma ll
, ,

re moved then pu t back in to the oven to d ry


,

dice season ed wi th sal t peppe r lemon j uic e


, , , the gl a ze on top of th e swee tbreads taken up , ,

and chopped parsley m ixed i n to beaten eggs , the braise s t rained and sk i mmed then pou red ,

wi th a l i t tl e c ream scrambled i n bu t ter bu t , to a mix tu re of diced red tongue tru ffles m ush , ,

kep t soft ( bes t when sc rambled to or d er ) fi lled


, rooms and ch icken breas t l i t tle M a d ei ra wine ,

in to h o t pa t ty shell s and served wi th a l i t tl e a n d sauce then added ; the swee tb read s serve d
V é l o u t é sauce poured around .
on toas t surroun d e d wi th th e garn ish ( called , ,

C U TLET S O F C ALF S SW E ET B R E AD S ’

SWEETB READS B RAI SE D a l a M ON T


WI TH V E GETAB LE S —The croque t te m i x GLAS) .

ture ( see Cal f s S wee tbread C roque ttes wi th


GL A Z ED C ALF S SW EE TB R E AD S W IT H '

Peas ) when col d c u t ou t and sh aped l ike s mal l


, FRENC H B EAN S — P repared swee tbrea d s
lamb chops wi th a piece of m acaron i to r e p r e
, l arded a n d brai sed as i n the preceding the ,

sen t the bone b readed and frie d ; se rved wi th


, b raise s trained sk i mmed and m ixed wi th green ,

a border of J ulienn e vege tables m ix ed in to Hol F rench beans ( Harico t Ver ts ) th e swee tb reads ,

l andaise sauce ( cal l ed SW E ET B R E AD C U T


, , served su rroun ded wi th th e bean s .

L E T S a l a N IVE R N AISE ) .
C ALF S S WEETB R EAD S WIT H D E M I

C ALF S S WEETB READ S W I T H F I N AN GLAC E — Prepared swee tbreads larded an d


'

G I E R E R AG O U T — Prepared swee tbread s brai sed a s ( see B raise d Calf s S wee tb rea d s
.

spl i t and seasoned wi th sal t peppe r and n u t , G arn ishe d ) when done t h e braise s train ed ove r
,

me g rolle d i n fl ou r s a u tée d i n bu t ter taken


, ,
-
, the m re d uce d wi th a l i t t l e Madei ra sauce a n d
,

up kep t ho t i n glaze served on f a n cy c ro u ton s


, , wine ; served on toas t rolled i n gl aze and gar ,

surroun d e d wi th a garn i sh of cock s combs an d ’


n is he d .

'
ke rn el s bu t ton mush room s small que nelles and
, , C AL F S SW E ETB R E AD S L AR DE D A ND
tru ff les al l made h o t in a ric h M adei ra sauce
, ,
B R AI SED M U S H R OO M SAU C E Same as
,

( call ed S W EE TB READ S A U T E a l a F I N AN
“ "

B raised C alf s S wee tb rea d s Garn ished the


CI E R E ) braise s trained in to a rich m ush room sauce the


C ALF S SW EE TB R E AD S I N C A SE S — Pre
.
,

swee tbrea d s served surrounded wi th the mush
pared swee tb read s cu t i n s mal l d ice season ed ,
rooms i h sauce .

wi th sal t and red pepper made h o t i n V él o u t é , C ALF S SWEETB READ S L A RDED S AU C E


sauce filled i n to pape r cases sp rinkl e d wi th


, , T OU L O U S E P repared swee tbread s l ar d e d
fresh bread crumbs and mel ted bu t te r arrange d , and b r aised serve d wi th asparagus poin ts a t
,

on a baking shee t and very q uickl y b rown ed i n on e end green peas a t th e o the r e n d of th e
,
'

the oven o r wi th a salamander and served . d ish wi th T oul ouse sauce a t th e si d es


, .

VO L A U V E N T O F S W E ETB R E ADS AN D
- -
B LAN Q U E TT E O F C AL F S SWEETB RE AD S ’

M U S H R OOM S —T h e p receding wi th the ad d i —Slices of prepa red swee tbreads mad e ho t i n a


tion of an equa l quan ti ty of cu t and s a u t é e d l igh t colored Alleman d e sauce served wi th i t ,

mush room s fi lled in to a good si zed pu ff paste


, a n d decora ted on th e top wi th slices of t ru ffles .

pat ty sh ell wi th a cover p l aced on and served . C AS SE R O L E O F C ALF S SWEET B READ S ’

TIM BA L E OF C ALF S SW E ETB RE ADS ’


Sl ices of p repared swee tbrea d s an d m ush roo ms
Prepared swee tbrea d s l ar d ed and brai sed al ,
ma d e ho t i n V él o u t é sauce the serving dish con ,

l owed to become cold then cu t i n th in sl ices , . tai n ing a high bor d er of po ta to cro q ue t te m ix
A rich forcemea t of cooked ch icken an d mush ture glaze d and bro wned the swee tbreads fi ll e d ,

roo ms well season ed the s wee tbreads and forc e , in t o the cen tre sprinkl e d wi th minced tru ffle ,

mea t fi l l ed i n to t i mbale m ol d s i n al tern ate peel ings an d se rved .

l ayers ; when full m oi s t en ed wi th the reduced F R I C AN DE A U O F SWEETB R EA DS WITH


C H I C O RY—Prepared swee tbreads l ar d ed an d
,

and s trained braise the opening cove red w i th ,

the sam e shor t pas te as th e mo l ds are l ined braised a s i n B rai se d C a l f s S wee tb read s ’

wi th bake d tu rned ou t ; served wi th a M adei ra


, , Garn ished wh en don e the brai se s train e d
, ,

sauce con tain ing a l i ttl e chopped pars l ey and ski m med then pou red over the swee tbrea d s an d
,

some m ush room tops pou red over and around ,


. reduced to a glaze ; serve d on a bed o f pu rée of
'
B O U C H EE S OF C A L F S SWEETB R E AD S chicory or spi nach wi th a rich M adei ra sauce ,

For recipe s e e h eading of B ouchees



poured a round .

'
BROC H ETT E O R AT T E R E A U X O F C AL F S C R O U S TAD E O F C U R R IE D C ALF S SWE E T ’

— “
SW E ETB READ S F o r recipe see B roche t te "
B RE AD S — Prepared s wee tb reads spl i t a n d
B R AI SED C ALF S S W EE T B R E AD S GA R '
, then s l iced m ade ho t in a good curry sauc e
,
34 T H E C U L I N ARY H AN DB O O K .

p repare d from the s tock th ey were boi led i n , b read c rumbs beaten eggs and again bread
,

filled i n to pas te c ro fis ta d e cases serve d t wo , c ru mbs fried ; served wi th V i l l e r o i sauce poured


,

cases full al te rna tel y wi th smal l turned ou t -


around and the en ds Of di sh garn ishe d wi th
,

m olds of d ry boiled rice . green peas tha t have been sau t ee d i n b u t ter .

C AL F S SW E ET B R EAD S F R I E D M U S H
'
, FR IC AS S E E O F S WE E TB RE AD S AND
R O O M SAU C E —P repare d swee tb read s spl i t , M U SH R OOM S —Prepared swee tbreads s pl i t
season ed wi th sa l t pepper and n u tmeg rolled , , and si m mere d i n sauce Albert serve d wi th i t , ,

i n flou r dippe d in to beaten eg g s frie d i n ho t


, , an d garn ished wi th bu t t on mush room s that
f a t serve d su rrounde d wi th bu tton mushrooms
,
have been l igh tly fried i n bu t ter and sprinkled
i n a M aderi a sauce . wi th chopped parsley .

R AG O U T O F C AL F S SW E ETB R E AD S ON ’
B R AI SED SW E ETB R E AD S S AU CE B E A R N ,

T OAST— P repa red sweetbrea d s spl i t and then AI S E — Prepared s weetbread s l arde d and
cu t i n sl ices m i xed wi th h al f th e amoun t of
,
brai sed ( as i n B raised C al f s S wee tbreads G ar ’

sl ice d mu shrooms m ad e h o t i n a M aderi a n i s h e d ) ; served d ecora te d a t the ends and si d es


,

sauce served p iled on toas t wi th th e sauce


,
wi th slices of t u fll e s a n d wi th B earn aise sauce
,

aroun d garn ished wi th fancy c r o fit o n s whose


,
- poured around .

end s are d ipped i n sauce then i n chopped pars ,


S AU T E O F C A LF S S WE ETB R E A D S WI T H
'

l ey .
B A K E D T OM A T OE S — Prepare d swee tbrea d s
SW E ETB R EAD S AN D TR U FFLES I N S H E LL spli t roll ed i n fl o u r sau t eed i n bu tt er wi th
, ,

- Prepared swee tbreads cu t i n sl ices m i xed , minced shallo ts s tri ps of green peppe r s and a
,

wi th sl ices o f tru ffles and m ush room s made , c rushed c l ove of garli c ; when b rown ed equa l ,

ho t i n a thick Alleman d e sauce fi l led i n to ,


par ts of toma to an d Napoli tain e sauces ad d ed ,

scall op shel ls sprinkl ed wi th bread c ru mbs and


,
si mmered ten m in u tes ta k en up sauce s train ed , ,

mel te d bu t ter b rowned i n the oven o r wi th a


,
over them S erved wi th some of th e sauce and
.

salamander and served ,


. garn ished wi th s mall s tu ff ed and baked toma
STEWE D C ALF S SWE E TB R E AD S WI T H ’
toe s.

K I D N EY B E AN S — Prepare d swee tbreads SW EE TB RE ADS B R E AD E D SA U C E TAR ,

sp l i t a n d m ad e h o t i n V él o u té sauce con taining


,
TA R E — Prepared swee tb read s spl i t an d spread
m ince d sh al l o t s wh ol e m ace pi eces of bacon
, ,
on bo th sides wi th tar tar sauce rolled i n ,

and swee t herb s for h alf an hour taken up a , , c ru mbs then b readed and fried ; served wi th
,

l iaison of egg yolks and c ream then beaten i n to Tar ta r sauce served sepa ratel y and garn ished ,

th e sauce and s t rain ed over the swee tbrea d s wi th l emon an d parsl ey .

served garn ished wi th sau t eed k idn ey bean s EPIG R AM M E O F SW E E TB R E AD S S AU C E ,

( fla ge o l e t s ) at ends sauce a t the sides ,


.
B E C H AM E L — Prepare d s wee tb reads s pl i t a n d '

C A LF S SWE ETB R E AD S W I T H C RE AM E D
’ tri mmed t o a cut l e t shape hal f of th e m dippe d ,

M U S H R O O M S — Prepare d swee tb read s cu t i n i n cool ing B échamel sauce and wh en c o l d rolled


sl ices a n d sau t eed i n bu t ter piled on toas t ; i n bread c rumb s then b readed an d frie d the
, ,

served su rroun d ed wi th sl iced mu shrooms o ther h al f made ho t i n rich wh i te s tock th en ,

b oi led down i n re d uce d cream .


taken u p and d ipped i n gl aze then coa te d wi th ,

B éc hamel sauce ; serve d on e o f each su r


R AG OU T O F C ALF S SWEETB R E ADS WI T H ’ , ,

roun d e d wi th scallops of red tongue a n d s l iced


M OR E L S — Prepare d swee tbreads cu t i n s l ices
mush room s i n B é chamel sauce
and sau t ee d i n bu t ter then m i xed i n to a rich
.

,
SC ALL OP S O F SWE ETB RE A D S WITH
TO U LO U S E R AG O U T — Prepared s wee t
M a d ei ra sauce ; serve d on t oas t surroun d ed ,

wi th sl iced morel s th a t h ave been fried in thei r


breads cu t i n slices then cu t c i rcular wi th large
,
own oi l .

si zed column cu t ter di ppe d i n cool ing Alle m


B R AISE D C ALF S SWEETB R E AD S W I T H ’ ,

an d e sauce then i n brea d c ru mbs a f ter w ards


S O R R E L — Prepare d swee tb rea d s l ar d ed a n d , ,

“ breade d and fried a gol d en col or i n bu t te r ;


brai sed as i n B rai se d Cal f s S wee tbreads G ar ’

” se rved overlappin g each o the r round th e d i sh


n is h e d ; serve d on a bed o f purée o f sorrel
,
,
the cen tre filled wi th cocks comb s an d kernel s
wi th some of the s trained a n d ski mmed gla ze ,

t ru ffle s cu t i n sma l l squares th e t ri m min gs o f


poure d ove r a n d around .
,

the swee tbread s a n d bu t ton mushroom s all


,
K R O M E SK IES O F C ALF S S W E ETB R E AD S ’

made h o t i n All emande sauce


—T h e c roque t te m ix tu re ( see C al f s S wee t
.

S CALL OP S O F SWEETB R E AD S WITH


P OT AT O C R O Q U E TTES —T he s wee tb read s
,

bread C roque t tes wi th Peas ) wh en co l d cu t ou t ,

a n d sh ape d l ike l on g cor k s then rol led in to a ,


cu t and fried as i n the precedin g recipe served ,

thi n sl ice o f col d boiled bacon pin ned wi th a ,


overl appin g e ach o the r aroun d th e d ish the ,

toothp ick d ipped in to a plain bat te r a n d f rie d


, ,
cen t re fi l led wi th s mal l pota to c one shape d -

too thpick then rem oved ; served wi th a rich croque t tes the poin t s bein g d ippe d i n wh i te
,

V é l o u t é sauce pou red a roun d .


sauce then i n ch opped parsl ey wi th a sauce
, ,

C AL F S SWE ETBR E AD S F R I E D S A U CE

, Poule t te aroun d th ei r base .

V I L LE R O I — Prepare d swee tb reads spl i t a n d L ARDE D S W E ETB R E AD S W I T H T O U


coated wi th co l d V i l l e r o i sauce th en rolled i n , L O U S E R AG O U T — Prepared s wee tb rea d s
THE C U L I N AR Y H A N DB O O K . 35

l a rded th rough from top to bo t tom wi th al ter livers sau t eed wi th an on ion ti ll tender then ,

na te s trips of red tongue and tru ffles so tha t ,


poun d ed to a pas te wi th a dash of anchovy e s
they resembl e a s tu d d ing ; brai sed as i n sence sa l t red peppe r and bu tter piled i n
, , ,

"
B raised C a l f s S wee tbreads G arni shed ;

,
py ramid form on f ried shapes of bread smoothed ,

served surroun d ed wi th a T oul ouse ragou t as wi th a knife and mad e h ot in the oven served

given i n Scallops o f S wee tbreads wi th Tou decorated wi th slices of p i me n to e s a n d rings of
l ouse Ragou t . red ch i ll ies ,

SWE ETB RE AD S ALAD — Slices of prepared C AN A P E S O F S H R I MPS —Fancy shaped sl ices


swee tbread d ippe d i n flou r and fried i u bu t ter ,
of toas t spread wi th shri mp pas te and decora ted
a l lowed to become co l d shredded l e t tuce i n wi th coi l ed sh ri mps .

C AN AP E S O F P OTTE D T ON G U E —C i rcles
,

cen t re of the d ish wi th c rea m salad d ressing ,

swee tb reads masked wi th mayonnaise ar ranged of brown bread toas t spread wi th po tted tongue
around the l e t tuce the l e t tuce decora ted wi th , and d ecora ted i n lat tice form wi th s t rips of red
a l ternat e sl ices of radishes and s tamped pieces cooked ton gue
IN DIA N C AN AP E S —C i rcl es of b rea d fried i n
.

o f pickle d bee t

SWE ETB R E AD S OU P —M inced ham and


.

bu t ter sp read fi rs t wi th pot te d ham then wi th


, ,

on ion s wi th prepared swee tbreads and a bunch chu tney s trewed wi th Parmesan cheese
, ,

of swee t herbs slowl y sau t eed i n bu t te r for an b rowned i n the oven a n d serve d .

hou r then fl ou r a d ded to form a paste th i s


, ,
C AN APE S O F P OT TE D H AM — S trips o f toas t
th en rubbed th rough a fi ne sieve the purée ,
spread wi th pot ted ham then sprin k led wi th ,

then worked i n to a good vea l or chicken s tock ,


grated h am decorated wi th thi n sl ices of g reen
,

boiled u p a n d s k i mme d season ed wi th sal t gherkins .

S AR DIN E C ANAP E S—Triangle sh aped piece s


, ,

pepper a n d a l i t tle sugar ; se rved wi th smal l


,
-

c r o fit o n s browned i n the oven ( called P OTAG E of toas t spread wi th a m ix ture of equal par ts of
a l a C OM T ES SE ) . boiled egg yolk s and sar d i nes pounde d to a
C AME M B E RT— N ame of an i mpor ted cheese ,
pas te and seasoned wi th red peppe r and lemon
pu t up i n round fl a t box es l ike bri e I s i n i ts . j u ice d ecora ted wi th a coi l ed anchovy ou t of
,

p ri me when j us t so f t a n d c reamy wi th an i n oi l i n the cen tre .

c l i n a tio n to run ; serve d i n sm a ll q uan ti ties C AN APE S O F C AVIA R — Circles of toas t the ,

wi th toas ted c rackers . edges sp rea d wi th anchovy bu t te r wi th an


C AN APE S —A French term l i te ra ll y mean in g a
,

on ion rin g as i ts base the ring fi lled wi th R u s ,


couch used i n a culinary sen se as a bed or
, sian cavi a r .

some th ing to res t savory foods on usually i n ,


O L IV E C AN AP E S — C irc l es of bu t te red toast
the form of b read or toas t covered wi th m inces ,
wi th a coiled anchovy on i t an d a stu ff ed ol ive ,

pas tes e tc then decora ted


, .
, . in th e cen tre of th e coil Also c ircles of toas t .

AN C H OVY C AN APE S H ard boiled eggs and -


fried i n bu t ter then spread wi th anchovy pas te
, ,

anchovies fi nely minced and spread on bu t tered m inced o l ives an d capers on top .

toas t Also very shallo w gem pans l ined wi th


.
, C AN AP E C H A S SE U R T r i a n gl e shape d piece s fi

p ie paste and baked then fill ed when cold wi th , of toas t spread wi th a game forcemea t the ,

anchovies pounded to a pas te wi th G ruye re edges decorated wi th another f orcemeat of game


cheese inver ted on a c i rcle of bu t tered toas t
,
bu t of d i ff eren t co l or .

an d garni shed wi th m inced ghe rkin s Al so a .


,
C AN APE S O F OY STER S S tri ps of t oas t
mi x ture of ch opped anchovies grated h am , ,
spread wi th bl anched and mince d oyste rs m ixe d
t ru ffl es and gher k i ns mixed and moisten ed wi th i n to a H oll andaise sauce sprin k le d wi th parsley ,

salad oil a n d caper v inegar then fi ll ed i n to ,


d us t C lams may be t rea ted the same way a n d
.

very sma ll patty cases ; served garn i shed wi th n amed accor d ingl y .

pieces of toas t and aspic j el ly .


S AV O RY C AN APE S S tri ps of toas t sprea d
C AN APE S BE RN E O R SWIS S C AN A P E S wi th a m ix ture of grated ha m cheese c ream , ,

Triangle shaped p i eces of toas t spread wi th


- sauce and sc ramb l ed eggs the e d ges decora te d ,

anchovy bu t te r decora ted wi th mince d wh i tes wi th l obs ter coral


C AN APE M AD IS ON —S l ices of toas t on which
.

of eggs down on e side yolks on the o the r and , ,

the thi rd wi th m inced green gherkin s and a ,


i s lai d a th in sl ice of l ean h am spread w i th
stu ff ed ol ive i n th e cen tre .
F rench mus tard th i s again i s spread wi th a ,

C AN APE S O F C RA B — C i rc l es of toas t spread co l d whi te sauce con tain ing minced cooke d
wi th deviled crab m ea t sprinkled wi th Parme ,
on ion s garl ic and cheese ; Parmesan cheese i s
, ,

san cheese and b rown ed i n the oven ( ca ll ed then dredged on top sprinkled wi th fi ne brea d ,

C AN AP E L O R EN Z O ) crumbs ba k ed a n d se rved
C AN APE S O F S M OKED S A LM ON —S trips of
.
. ,

C H IC KE N C ANAPE S — C irc l es of toas t sprea d


toas t spread wi th anch ovy bu t ter a th i n c irc l e ,
wi th chicken forcemea t in wh ich i s wor k e d
of smo k ed sal mon on top the e d ges decora te d ,
c ream and bu t ter d redged wi th Pa rmesan ,

wi th h ard boiled eggs m inced a n d mixed wi th cheese a n d ba k ed then decorated in the cen tre
choppe d parsley wi th a s tampe d p i ece o f wh i te of egg
C AN APE S O F C H I C K E N L IV E R S —C hicken C R E OLE C AN AP E S —G ra ted lean ham on ion :
. .

, ,
36 T H E C U L I N A R Y H AN D B O O K
'

g arlicand chopped parsl ey w i th piec es of peel ed vege tabl es then co l ored wi th a coa l tar produ c t
,

toma toes a n d m inced g reen peppe rs season ed , an d l oa d e d wi th sal icy l ic acid to p reven t fe r m e n
wi th sal t and pepper s tewed do wn d ry then , ,
t a ti o n. Frui t bu t te rs are n oth ing bu t parings .

spread on s t rips of bu t tere d toas t dredged , and scrapings of f rui t to wh ich glucose s tarch , ,

wi th Parmesan cheese an d baked . an d col orings have been a d de d wi th salic ylic ,

SC OTC H C AN APE S — B reas t of chicken red , ac id as a preserva tive j ell ies are mad e f rom .

to n gue an d l ean ham all cu t in to v ery smal l gl ucose fl avored wi th essen tial oil s a n d colore d
, ,

dice season ed wi th n u tmeg and a l i t tl e cu rr y


, . t o wh ich sal icylic acid i s a d ded S ome f rui t .

powder then worked i n to a thick V é l o u t é sauce


, ,
j ell ies m ar k e d as pure h ave n ever seen a t race ,

spread on slices of toast dredged w i th Pa rm e ,


o f f rui t Wha t i s t rue of j ell ies i s t rue of pre
.

san cheese and baked ( a l so Calle d C AN APE , , serves Pu t toge the r re f use material the cheap
.
,

AB E R D E E N y es t sor t of glucose so me colo ring an d sal icyl ic


C AN AP E WIND S OR —
,

S t ri p s of toas t spread acid and you have th e composi ti on of some o f


wi th a forcemea t o f any k in d of whi te fl eshed th e c heape r forms of preserves tha t are to b e


fis h season ed wi th mus tar d and Worces te r
, found on th e sh el ves of some of ou r g r oce ry
sh i re sauce d redged wi th Parmesan cheese a nd
, s tores Of these coarser form s of adul tera tion s
.

bake d . i t wil l be un necessary to say even a word ; they


C AN AP E C AB I L L AU D —T riangle shaped pieces a re un iversally recogni zed as being u n fi t fo r u se
of toas t sprea d wi th a force mea t ma d e of boiled and eve ry hon es t deal er i s of the opin ion tha t th e
sa l t c o d fis h m ixe d wi th mince d green peppers
, soone r they are d riven ou t of the m arke t th e
an d spring on ion s seasoned wi th tarragon v ine be t ter i t wil l be for trade .

ga r decorated wi th cape rs
, .
CAN T E L OU P E S— A re of d i ff eren t k ind s i n ou r
M ADR A S C A N AP E S 4 Ci r c l e s of toas t spread “
marke ts ; a l though the Nu tmeg i s p ron ounce d
wi th a mix ture of fi n el y m ince d wh i te fleshed t h e bes t m an y h ave a di s tinc t fanc y for th e
,

fi sh M ad ras chu tney a n d swee t pickl es m ois t “




, , Osage wi th i ts thick yel low f rui t I n selec t .

en e d wi th Hollandai se sauce d redged wi th , i ng th e nu tmeg s th ose wh ich h ave a th ick ,

Parmesan ch eese and bak ed ( al so ca l led , , broad cor d in g on the rind and wi th the sec tion ,

C ANAPE WIN C H E STER ) .


marks inclin ed to a yello w colo r wil l be f oun d ,

C H EE S E C ANAP E S S tri ps of b read hol lowed -


the bes t frui t T o be served they are fi rs t k ep t
.

ou t hal f th ei r thic k n ess then toasted the i nn e r , ,


on ice then sc rubbed o r washe d spl i t i n hal ves
, ,

pa r t sprayed wi th Worces te rsh i re sauce the ,


l eng thwise pi th an d see d s re moved an d th e
, ,

cavi ty then fi t ted wi th a sl ice of S wiss cheese ,


cavi ty fi ll ed wi th s mal l b roken ice ; ea ten by
bake d an d se rve d very h o t s o m e w i th powde red sugar by o the rs wi th sal t
'

, . ,

C AN NELON S—Name given to holl ow l eng ths of and pepper .

noo d l e o r pu ff paste m a d e by t win ing s trips of C APE R C AI L Z I E —A game b i rd of the grouse


the pas te arou n d a piece o f pi pe or tubin g ,
species the m al e bi rd d i ff erin g grea tl y f rom
,

then ei th er b aked or frie d th e pipe remove d , ,


the h en i n tha t i t a t tain s t o twice th e s i z e h as ,

th e cannel on s m ay then be filled wi th force d ark brown wings and a dark g ree n y gold n eck , ,

meats c roque t te m i x tu res c ream s p rese rves


, , , ,
while th e hen i n appearance and plu mage i s
e tc . ve ry l ike a prai ri e h en T hi s b i rd m u s t al way s .

C AN ARD — French n ame for wi l d duck Cane .


be hun g for a week or so to become ten d er ; i t
ton for domes tic duck or d uckl in g . may then be cooked i n a l l the ways of p rai ri e
C AN N E D G O OD S — The following quo tat ion ch ic k en s .

C APE R S — Are a berry of a plan t cu l tiva ted i n


'

clipped from T h e S a m t a r z a n i s given for th e


r e ade r to f o rm h i s own v iews : Europe an d n o t i n A merica ; are spoken of i n


“ ”

U nder on e heading we m ay con sider severa l th e bibl e as hyssop They a re i mpo r te d .

“ “ ”
g roups of foods tu ff s wh ich wh il e d i ff eren t i n , ,
here i n fi v e si zes : N o n pa i e l s
r C apotes ,

“ “ ” “
c omposi tion are al ike i n the for m of adul tera tion
,
C apuchin s Seconds and ,
Th i rds in
wh ich i s resor ted to T hese groups i ncl u de th e .
bot tl es and i n bulk the l a t ter way bein g th e ,

v arie ties of cann ed vege tabl es frui t bu t ters j e l , ,


cheapes t for h o te l use C apers however are .
, ,

li es preserves a n d ca tsups T h e fo rm s of a d ul
, .
of ten m ixe d by ( I n s c r u p u l o u s dealers wi th
“ ”
t e r a ti o n s com mon to all of these con si s t i n th e
, ,
n as tur tiu m ber rie s wh ich resemble th em i n
u se of coloring m at ter of i mpe rfec t vege tab l e s or ,
si z e and appearance T h e caper i s onl y u sed .

f ru its of o the r vege table s and frui ts than those


,
for makin g sauces o r i n garn i shing ,
.

c alled fo r o f preserva tives I n th e case of can . C APONS— Are young fowl s th a t h ave been s teri
n ed vege tables th ere i s an acciden tal adul tera
,
l i z e d secl uded and fa t ten ed wh ich i mp roves
, ,

t i on from the ing redien ts of t h e can such as l ead ,


the de l ic acy and fl avor of thei r fl esh and al so ,

an d tin and which m ay as a rule be a t tribu ted


, , ,
al l ows them to gro w to a much l arger si ze .

t o a l ack of care in cann ing I n al l the group s . T hey are bes t in the fal l o f the year T he ci ty .

m en tion ed the adu l te ration prac tised i s on e of


,
of Ph il a d el ph i a seem s to h ave go t the n am e o f
th e mos t flagran t a nd ex ten sive ki nd C a tsups .
producing th e bes t and wh en placed on the ,

a re made of skin s and cores i ns tead of the pure bil l of fare n o mat ter what par t of the coun try
, ,
THE C U L I N A R Y H A N D B OOK .
37

ar e genera l ly design ate d , Ph iladel ph ia Ca gueu x sauc e ; served wi th th e sauce pou red
pon aroun d and garn i shed wi th smal l quenelles of
,

R OAS T C AP ON STU FF E D W I T H R I C E chicken d ipped i n to pa rsley sauce .

D ra w singe a n d wash the bi rds wi pe d d ry


, , , B O I LE D C AP O N M US H R O OM S AU C ,E
th e in side fi lled wi th rice th a t has bee n boiled The bi r d s drawn washed singed an d trusse d , , ,

i n s tock ; season e d wi th sal t peppe r n u tmeg , , baco n ti e d o ve r th e breas t boi led i n wh i te ,

an d a fe w herbs ; when fi ll ed trussed breas t , , s tock sauce ma d e f rom the s tock some mush
, ,

covered wi th bacon a n d t ied wi th s tring , roo m pu rée worked i n to i t al so som e whol e ,

roasted and bas ted ; when n ear l y done the , bu t ton mush room s th a t have b een sau t eed i n
bacon remove d the breas t b rown ed ; se rve d , bu t te r ; served surrounded wi th th e mush room s
garn i shed wi th waterc ress and some V él o u té ,
i n sauce .

sauce S T E WE D CAPO N WI T H V E GE TAB L E S


ROAS T C A P ON S W I T H N O ODL E S — T h e
.

The bi rds p repared then d isj oi n te d i n to por ,

birds d rawn singed washed an d t russed the


, , ,
tion p ieces l igh tl y fri ed i n bu t te r then ar
, ,

b reas t fi lled wi th a savory s tu ffing bacon tie d ,


ranged i n a s a fito i r wi th sl ices of c a rro t on ion s ,

ove r the breas t t hen roas ted ; se rved wi th som e


,
an d a b u nch of swee t herbs m ois tened wi th ,

boiled nood l es tha t a re m ixed i n to Allemande stoc k and a glass of M adei ra wine s tewed ,

sauce wi th a l i t tl e Parmesan cheese a t on e


,
s l owl y til l ten d er ; served garn ished wi th a
end and Allemande sauce a t th e o ther
, . m ace d oine of vege tab l es m ade ho t i n M ad ei ra
B R AIS ED C AP ON WI TH C H IP OL ATA G AR sauce .

N I S H — Capon s dra wn singe d , washed wi pe d B O I LE D C APO N WITH T ON GU E A N D


C AU L I FL OWE R — The b i rd s prepared a n d
, , ,

l arded on th e breas t t russed pu t i n sauce pan , ,

wi th vege tabl es herb s and spices moistened , ,


boiled as i n B oiled C apon M ush roo m S auce ; ,

hal f way u p w i th wh i te s tock an d a glass of se rved wi th a sl ice of b raised smoke d to ngue ,

whi te wi n e covere d wi th bu t tered pape r


, ,
an d garn ished wi th flo w e r e t s of caul iflowe r i n
braised t il l done and g l az y S erved garn ish ed .
B é ch ame l sauce .

wi th small sausages bl anched and peeled ches t B O I LE D C AP O N W I TH M I LAN AI S E GA R


N IS H — P repared a n d boi l e d as above a n d
,

n u ts bu t ton m ushroom s smal l gla zed on ion s


, , ,

an d piece s of cooked bacon al l made ho t in a served su rroun d ed wi th a garn is h of boile d


g oo d roas t fowl gravy
macaron i i n i nch l eng th s wi th s trips of cook ed
tongue sl ice d m ush rooms and m
. ,

B R AI S E D CA PON S S A U C E S U PRE ME ,
, inced t ru ffle
Prepared an d b raised as in th e prece d ing ; peel in gs ma d e ho t i n a V é l o u t é sauce .

served wi th Supr eme sauce poure d aroun d and B O ILE D STU FFED C AP ON C E LE RY
S A U CE — T h e bi rd s prepared the n s t u ff ed
,
,

d ecorate d wi th s trips of cooked tongue and ,

wa tercress . wi th ce l e ry the skin rubbed wi th lemon j u ice


, ,

R OAS T C AP ON ST U F FE D G IB L E T S A UC E ,
bacon tied ove r th e brea s t boiled i n whi t e ,

- Th e bi rds prepare d then filled wi th a savory ,


s tock sauce m ad e from i t i n to wh ich i s worked
, ,

s tu ffi ng t russed b ac o n t i e d ove r the b reas t


, ,
_
,
s trips of bl anched cel e ry abo u t an inch l ong ,

roas ted and baste d t il l done b acon then t e ,


the ce l e ry th e n si m me red I n th e sauce t il l ten
m oved a n d the b reas t quick l y b rowned served
, ,
der ; s erved wi th the sauce poured around a nd ,

w i th a sauce m ad e fro m the residue o f the garn i shed wi th green ce l e ry tops .

ro as tin g pan wi th minced and sau t eed gib l et s


,
C APS I C U M S — Are b e t te r kn own as ch ill ies or
worked in to i t ; garn ished wi th wa ter c ress peppers ; they are of t wo shapes the long th i n
B O IL E D C APON WIT H S AL T P O R K — T h e
. ,

da rk red which i s used i n V i negars pickl es


, , ,

capon p repared and the b reas t fi ll ed wi th and to gr i n d in to r e d pepper ; an d th e “

ch icken forcemeat then trusse d boile d i n whi te , ,


roun d gr e e n bell shaped which i s generall y ,

s toc k wi th a piece of sal t pork served wi th a ,


stu ff ed an d bak ed or cu t u p in to man y sauces , ,

sauce poured a r ound mad e from th e s t oc k i t ,


soups a n d garn i tures .

was boiled i n to wh ich i s a d ded chopped pars


,
C AR AM E L — I s a term u sed by c ooks fo r bur nt
ley an d fl anked wi th th i n sl ices of pork su g ar th inn e d wi th wa te r and used to col or
soups sauces grav ies syrups ice c rea m
. ,

B R AI SE D C A P ON S WITH T O M AT OE D , , s e tc , , , .
,

R I C E—T he birds p repared the b reas t c o v ,


tha t requi re a b rown tin t wi thou t a pron ounced
e red wi th bacon b rai sed wi th v ege tabl e s and flavo ri ng .

C AR B ON AD E —A Fre nch term app l ied to d eno te


,

spices ; when done taken u p and the b rai se , ,

s train ed ski m med an d added t o a V é l o u té


, ,
a s tew compose d of co l d meat s gen erall y s ea ,

s o n e d wi th onion s and gar l ic such as carbo nade


'

sauce Rice boiled i n chic k en s tock til l done


. , ,

d rained mi xed wi th a to mato purée ; serve d of beef mu t ton e tc


C AR AWAY—N ame of seeds of a wild p l an t used
.
, ,
,

wi th a small mold of th e rice turned ou t on e n d


of dish wi th some of th e sauce poured around .
i n distill ing for cordi a l and c ak e fl avoring
, .

B R AIS E D C AP ON S W I TH Q U E N E LLES ,
C A R D IN AL — N ame appl i ed to food s sauces a n d ,

S AU C E P E RI G U E UX — Prepared and b rai sed d rink s tha t are col ored a brigh t red
C ARDO ON S —A vege tabl e rese mbli n g s e a kal e
.
,

as in the preceding the b raise s train ed sk i m , ,


-
,

m e d r e d u c e d t o glaze then mixed i n to a Pe ri


, ,
bu t the s ta l ks are fea thery Pl en ti f ull y grown .
38 T H E CU L I N A R Y H AN D B OO K .

i n C an ada ; may be : t reated the same as sea eggs m ince d ch ive s and sha ll o ts seasoned wi t h
, ,

kal e .
sal t pepper a n d n u tmeg ; sewn up scored
, , ,

C AR M IN E — A red co l oring used for syrups ,


rolle d i n oil paper and slo wl y broile d till d one ,

sauces c ak es e tc . ob tained from the coch ineal


, , ,
th rough ; serve d wi th fin e s herbes sauce poured -

in sec t ; made by bruising fou r ounces of coch over and garn ished wi th J u l ien ne pota toes .

in c al in sec ts a n d soakin g f o r a fe w m inu tes i n FR IED C A R P P I Q U ANTE S AU CE — The fi sh


,

th ree pin ts of cold wa ter then pu t to boi l wi th ,


scaled t ri m me d washed d ried rubbed wi th
, , , ,

two ounces of com mon wash ing so d a ; when l e mon j uice seasoned wi th sal t a n d pepper
, ,

boil ing removed to where i t si m me rs onl y


, ,
roll ed in flour d ippe d i n beaten eggs fried
, ,

then sl owly i s added t wo ounces of rock al um ,


served wi th Piquan te sauce pou re d around ,

then four ounces of c ream of t ar ta r boi l ed up ,


garn i she d wi th lemon and pars l ey and su r ,

for t wo m inu tes s t rained an d when cold , , ,


rounded wi th Parisien n e po ta toes .

bot t l ed for u se .
B OIL E D C AR P R OE S S AU C E S U P R E M E ,

C AR P— A fresh water fi sh i n season from Sep ,


Th e roes washe d then steepe d f o r an hour i n ,

te mber to M ay ; i s h ighly es teemed aud i ts roe ,


t cold wa te r wi th vi negar s l ow l y boi led i n l igh t ,

i s n early equal to t ha t of the S had .


con som mé wi th l e mon j uice i n i t ; served wi th
BA K E D C ARP S AU C E M ATE L OT E — T he ,
supr eme sauce pou red over and garn ished wi th ,

fi sh sca l ed and tri mmed filled wi th sa v ory s tu f ,


pota toes Angl aise .

fi n g se wn up score d in to cu t ting por tion s the


, , ,
FR I E D C AR P R O E S S AU C E T A R T AR E ,

back d ipped i n beaten e g gs then i n b read ,


The roes wash ed an d s teeped as above then ,

c ru mbs laid i n pan back sprinkled wi th me l ted


, ,
blanch ed i n sal ted v in egar wa ter taken ou t and ,

bu t ter mois ten ed wi th a l i t tle red wine and wiped d r y seasoned wi th sal t pepper a n d
, ,
,

con som mé a few s l ices of on ion s added slowly


, ,
l emon j uice b rea d ed fri e d ; served wi th tar tar
, ,

baked till d on e tak en up the res i d ue o f the , ,


sauce pou re d around garn ishe d wi th le mon , .

pan s traine d i n to a ma telo t e sauce the fi sh pars l ey and ch ip po ta toes


S C A LL OP E D C AR P R OE S I N S H E LL —T h e
.

served wi th i t and g arn ished wi th D uchesse ,

po ta toes .
roes cleansed s teeped a n d blanch ed t h e n
, ,

B AKE D C ARP S AU C E G EN OIS E —Th e fi sh ,


boi l ed i n sal ted v inegar wa ter t il l d one ; taken
scal e d tri m med a n d s tu ff e d as above se wn u p
, , ,
u p cu t in to d ice wi th m ush roo ms pu t in to a
, ,

score d bake d i n Gen oi se sauce se rve d wi th i t V é l o u t é sauce wi th a l i t tl e l obs ter coral then ,
, , ,

and garn i shed wi th p ota toes B i g n o n n e .


fi lled i n to sca l lop shells sprink l ed wi th b read ,

B RAI S E D STUFF E D C A R P S A U C E A LL E c rumb s an d mel ted bu t ter bake d and served ,


.

M AN D E —The fi s h scal e d t ri m med s tu fle d PATTIE S O F C AR P R OE S —T h e preceding


,

, ,

wi th fi sh forcemea t sewn u p the ski n then , ,


m ix ture fi lled in to pa t ty shel ls ; served wi th th e
spread wi th more force mea t placed i n a sa il ,
top sprink l ed wi th l obs te r coral an d V el ou té ,

toi t wi th vege tables and spi ces m ois ten ed wi th sauce pou re d aroun d .

C ARP S AU T E AD M IR A L S AU C E —The fi sh
,

fi sh s tock and wh i te win e c overed wi th bu t tered ,


,

paper slowl y braise d t il l d one taken u p brai se


, , ,
a poun d each i n weigh t scal ed t ri m me d , , ,

s trained sk i m med and ad d ed to an Al lemande


, ,
washed dried score d season ed wi th sal t a n d
, , ,

sauce served wi th i t and garn ished wi th H ol


, ,
pepper ro l led i n flou r s l owly fri ed i n b u t ter
, ,

landai se po ta toes .
t il l done ; se rved su rrounded wi th Adm i ra l
B O I LE D C A R P C AP E R S A U CE —The fi sh
sauce garn i shed wi th parsl ey l emon and Vic
, ,
,
tori a po ta toes .

scal ed and tri m me d e i ther l ef t who l e or cu t , ,


C AR R O T S —A vege tab l e tha t i n th is coun try e n
i n to por tion s pl aced i n s a fit o i r wi th an on ion
,
ters i n t o a l mos t eve ry soup sauce ragou t e tc , , , .
,
s tuck w i th cloves and a bu nch of herbs c o v
f o r i ts fl avor and i n th e earl y su mme r wh en
,
,
e red wi th good beef gravy a n d a l i t tl e por t win e ,
n e w and abou t two i nches l ong are rel i she d as ,
boil ed sl owly till d on e sauce mad e fro m the ,
an acco mpan i men t to fresh boi led beef Ne w ,
l iquor i t was boiled i n ; when done capers a n d ,
England d inn e r e tc
N EW C A R R OTS I N C R E AM —T h e carrots
.

caper v in egar a d ded to i t ; se rved wi th the fi sh ,


,

garn ished wi th C onde po ta toes


washed and sc raped then boiled tende r i n boil
.

B R O I L E D C ARP LE M ON PA R S LEY B U T ing sal ted wa te r tak en up and d rain ed th en


T E R —T he fi sh scaled tri mm ed washe d d rie d
,
, ,

, , ,
si m mered in reduce d cream or thin cream
and fil l e te d scored across the sk in seasone d
, ,
sauce ; served as a vege table .

wi th sa l t and pepper rolled i n fl ou r th en d i p , ,


S AU T E O F N EW C A R R O TS —Washe d scraped ,

ped i n olive oi l broi led serve d wi th M ai tre , ,


and boi l ed as above th en s a u té e d i n bu t ter , ,

D H Ot e l but ter poure d over and garn ishe d wi th


tak e n up and m ixed i n to M ai tre D H Ote l bu t


,

ch ip po ta toes le mon a n d parsley ,


.
ter ; serve d as a garn ish .

BR OILED S TU FFE D C A R P F I N E S H E R B ES ,
-
B R AI S E D NE W C AR R OT S PA R S L E Y ,

S AU C E — Fi sh a pound each in weigh t scal ed , , S AU C E — T h e carrots washed an d sc raped ,

tri m med a n d washe d fi ll ed wi th a fo rcem ea t then b raised i n consom mé to a g l a ze taken up ;


made of m inced mu sh rooms s mal l piece s of
, ,

, served on small pla t ters w i th some pars l ey


any cooked fi sh ch oppe d pars l ey hard boiled , , sauce a t the end as a vege tab l e , .
40 T H E C U L I N AR Y H AN D B O OK .

B O I LED C AU L I FL OW E R H OL L AN D AI S E ,
i n cans ; i t is c o nsidered by epi o nz es to b e o n e ‘

S AU C E —T h e caul iflower tri m me d lai d i n ,


o f the fi n es t o f appe ti z ers .

sal te d wa ter for an hou r then boile d i n sal ted ,


C AVI AR O N TO A ST W I T H O LI V E S On e
boil ing wa ter wi th a d ash of v inegar i n i t ti ll par t each of R ussian caviar sof t bread c rumbs , ,

ten d er taken u p an d d rai ne d ; se rved w i th


,
and blanched a n d peel ed J ordan al mond s mi xed
H ollan d ai se sauce poured around ; m ay al so be toge ther and m inced i n to a pas te spread on ,

serve d this way wi th toma to sauce . s trips of t oas t th e edges garn ished wi th sl i c es
,

S T E WED C AU LIF L OWE R —T h e caul iflower o f s toned ol ives .

p repare d a n d boil ed as above t hen tak en u p ,


C AVIA R T AR T I N E S —R u ssi an cav iar spread
and sec tione d arranged i n a sa u toi r covered
, ,
on toas t a n d the e d ges d ecora ted w i th fin el y
,

wi th b u t te r sauce and si m me red ; se rved as a chopped green gherk in s parsl ey and swee t ,

vege tabl e peppers m ixed toge th er .

C AN APE S O F C AVI A R — C ircl es of toas t th e


.

B AKE D C AU LI FL OWE R — S tewed as i n the ,

p receding t hen pl aced i n to ba k in g d i sh c o v edges spread wi th anch ovy pas te , wi th an on i on


, ,

ered wi th bread c ru mbs a n d grated cheese ri ng as i ts b ase the r in g fil le d wi th R ussian


,
,
cav iar .

sprin k le d wi th bu t ter a n d b ak e d
E G G S S T U F FE D W I TH C AV I A R — Cu t sl ices
.

SC AL LO PE D C A U L I FL OWE R — Same as th e
of h ard boil e d eggs th e yo l ks removed i ts
prece d i ng bu t fi l l ed i n to scall op shel ls i ns tea d , ,
,
pl ace fi l l ed wi th R ussi an c av i ar ; serve d on th in
of baking d ish ; served i n the sh ell s .

sl ices of bu t te red brown b rea d .

FR IE D C A U LI FL OWE R AL LEM AN D E ,
C AVI AR W IT H E G G — Sl ices o f toas t th e edg es
S AU C E —T he s te wed caul iflower ab ove tak en ,
,

piped wi th bea ten whi tes o f eggs caviar


u p d ipped i n to bat te r and f rie d ; served wi th ,

p r i n kl e d o n top whol e y ol k of raw egg d ropped


,
s
Alleman d e sauce pou re d aroun d .
,

i n the cen ter bak ed till se t a n d se rved ho t


C AU LIFLOWE R W IT H M AY ON N AI S E , .
,

C AVI A R C R O U S TAD E S —Ve ry smal l pas te


C old boiled c aul iflo w er i n flo w e r e t s mari n aded ,
c ro u stade s h al f an i n c h d e e p fi lled wi th caviar
i n F rench d ressi ng arrange d on a l ea f of l e t ,
,

on i t pl aced a f reshl y opened blue poi n t oys ter


t u c e around th e d i sh wi th mayonn aise i n th e ,
s erve d garn i she d wi th l e mon a n d watercress
cen ter
.

C E LE R Y— Is an aroma tic plan t cul tiva ted l argel y


.

C AU LI FL OWE R S A L AD —Co l d b oiled caul i


a s a fl avoring vege tabl e and fo r uses of salads
fi o we r e t s covered wi th c rea m salad d ressi ng
.

,
I t i s gene rall y sen t to tabl e i n a r a w con d i tion
arranged i n cen ter of di sh garn i shed wi th smal l , “
,

i s th e on e and p roper thi g to ea t wi th canvas


n
ball s o f b ee t s .
"
back d uck Kalam azoo M ichigan i s th e
P UR E E O F C AU L I FL OWE R — On e thi rd V é
.
, ,
-

g rea t celery raising spot in th i s coun try When


l o u té sauce on e thi rd ch icken stoc k m ixe d a n d
.
-
, ,
the celery in d us try was s tar ted i n Kal amazoo
b rough t to the boil m i nced caul iflower s tal k s ,

,
i t was n o t for several yea rs tha t the e n t e r p r i s
an d roo ts boiled i n i t t il l tende r w i th a l i t tl e
i ng pion eers i n thi s industry d iscove re d that
thy me and pa rsley ; when don e rub b ed th rough ,
the t housands of ac res o f rive r bot tom l ands
a fi n e sieve b rough t to th e boil agai n a n d on e
,
surroun d i ng th e ci t y wer e espec ial ly adap ted
thi rd of th e who l e of c ream sauce th en a d d e d ;
i n the rai sing of celery t o the pi n n acl e o f e s
se rved wi th cro u tons .

tee m a n d popular favo r i t n o w holds Vi si tors


C RE AM O F C A U LI FL OWE R — Same as th e
.

to Kal ama zoo a te i t a n d carried a way m arve ,


preceding bu t when fi n ished very sm al l flo w
, ,
l ous tales of i ts del icacy orde rs to purchase
e re ts ad d ed be f ore serving .
,

an d for ward were sen t back to f ri ends a n d e x


C AU LI FL OWE R S A U C E —I n to a good bu t te r press agen ts and the i ndus try tha t was des tined
,

sauce i s work e d som e ve ry small fl o w e r e t s of to m ake Ka l ama zoo f amous as the celery ci ty
boiled caul iflo wer wi th a l i t tl e pu rée ( goo d fo r
_

,
was born A t th e p resen t ti m e there are th ous
.

boile d poul t ry ) .

and s o f ac res u n d er cu l tivation an d cel ery ,

P IC K LE D C AU L I FL OWE R Ca u l i flo we r s fi nds i ts way from K al amaz oo to every par t o f


boiled t il l ten d e r i n flo w e r e t s then pu t i n to , the Un i ted S ta tes and speci al shi pmen ts h ave
j ars a n d c overed wi th the fol l owin g pic k le :
, been sen t b y s teamer to L iverpool and L on d on .

O n e pound of d r y m us ta rd m ixe d wi th on e I n rai sing cel e ry the see d i s fi rst sown d urin g
ounce of tu rmeric then moi stene d wi th v i n egar
, .
th e win te r mon ths i n speci al ly p repare d hot
One gallon o f vi negar b rough t to the boil the , houses of which th er e are ac res unde r glass
, ,

mus tard and tu rmeric pas te s ti rred i n to i t , the plan ts are transpl an ted thinn e d ou t a n d , ,

b rough t to th e si mm er a n d when beginn ing t o ab ou t the fi rs t of M ay are again transplan te d


thic k en on e pound of suga r hal f a pin t o f olive
, , to the fiel d s being plan te d i n specially prepare d
,

oil and t wo ounces of m us ta rd see d succes


, trenches i n double rows T here i t i s care f ully .

s ive l
y adde d to i t si m mered for a f e w minu te s
, , l ooked after cul tivated and i rrigate d a n d when
, ,

then poured boi l in g h o t ove r the c au l i flo we r s of the proper si ze the rich bl ack soi l i s drawn,

i n the j ars .
up aroun d th e plan ts f ro m bo th sides un til i t ,
'

C AVIAR — I s a preparation m ade fro m th e r Oe s fo rms a bank reaching n earl y to the top of th e
of sturgeon can b e bough t a t the grocery s tores
, leaves Abou t fou r teen d ay s i s re q ui red for
.
T H E C U L I N ARY H AN D B O O K .
4r
th e p l an t to ac q u i re tha t si lv ery whi teness and wi th sa l t peppe r and a l i t t l e bu t ter the mi x
, ,

d el icate c ri spness so enj oyed by every l over of ture s teamed ti ll i t th ic k ens then fi lled in to ,

celery The shipping season then commences pat ty cases and se rved ho t

. , .

and celery i s taken fro m the fi eld s to the pack B AKE D C E LE RY WIT H C H E E S E The e e l
ing rooms carefully washed and tied i n bunche s
,
e ry cu t i n to inch leng ths l ike macaron i boi le d ,

of t welve head s each packed and delivered to ,


i n sal ted wa ter til l tender d raine d m ixed w i th , ,

the express compan y f o r shipmen t The fal l . a l i t tl e gra ted h am and choppe d green celery
c rop which i s abundan t l a ter i s taken from
, , l eaves arranged i n l aye rs in bak in g di sh each
, ,

the fi elds abou t the fi rs t of N ovember and is , layer sprin k l ed wi th gra ted cheese ; when full ,

p l ace d i n speci al l y con s truc te d houses for p re mois ten e d wi th V é l o u t é sauce sprinkle d wi th ,

serva tion during the col d weather mon th s T h e . gra ted bread crumb s m i xed wi th cheese then ,

season usually commences abou t th e fi rs t of wi th mel ted bu t te r and baked .

j uly and closes abo u t Feb ruary F ro m i ts . C ELE RY WI TH M ARROW— T h e s tewed cel
s tar t as the appe ti ze r i n fron t of a good d in ner , , e ry ( as in S tewe d C ele ry on T oas t ) se rved on
i ts rare beau ty as a table ornamen t e tc th e ,
.
, toas t spread wi th mar ro w ; served garnish e d
rise of celery to popu l ar apprecia tion was rapi d . wi th slices of coo k ed marro w
F R IED C E LE R Y S AUC E V I LLE R O I —Th ree
.

Th e use o f celery and i ts adap tabil i ty i n the ,

prepara tion of tab l e con d i men ts is wel l seen on i nch l eng ths of celery s tal k boiled n o t qui te

the g rocers shelves T here i s cann ed ce l ery



. don e i n sal ted wa ter d raine d seasoned wi th , ,

for cooking only ; choppe d ce l e ry pu t up i n such sal t and pepper breaded a n d f r ied ; served wi th ,

a manne r as to re tain i ts c rispness and good V i l l e r o i sauce poured around .

q ual i ty fo r use a t any ti me in th e prepara tion B O IL E D C E LE R Y WI TH O N I ON S — S ta l ks


of salads ; cel ery pickles celery mustar d celery , ,
of celery abou t th ree i nches l ong smal l oni on s ,

sa l t celery pepper celery ex trac ts and ton ic


, , , of an even si ze bo th boiled toge ther i n v eal ,

i n fac t every thing tha t can be m an ufac tured s tock til l tender ; served t he celery on toas t ,

from i t i n an y way C hopped and canned . m asked wi th B é chame l sauce garn ished wi th ,

celery a re especial l y adap t e d to the wan ts of on ion s .

“ "
the Chef as they a re a l w ays ready a t any C E L E RY F R I T TE RS C e l ery s ta l ks three
s eason of the year and particu l ar l y useful are
,
inches long tied i n bundles th ree s tal k s thic k
, ,

they a t the season when good celery i s n o t o b “

boiled til l tender in sal ted wa te r ta k en up and ,

ta i n a b l e T here i s also manufac tured a pre


.
d rained season ed wi th sa l t pepper a n d Par
, ,

pare d salad ready for the tab l e whose fl avor ,


mesan cheese s t rin g removed d ipped in ba t te r
, ,

and excellence i s as surprising as i t i s delici ous a n d fried ; serve d as a vege tab l e .

B RAISE D C ELE RY O N T OAS T—Celery s talks


.

C REA M O F C ELE RY — In to a good veal o r


ch icken s tock is pu t a knuckl e of ham a few ,
al l of an even si ze boile d n o t qui te d one i n ,

on i on s pl en ty of ou tside s talk s of celery and a


, ,
sal ted wa ter the n arranged i n a sa u toi r an d
, ,

fe w bl ades o f mace ; boiled ti l l celery i s sof t ,


mois tened w i th s t rong c hicken s tock and a
ham then taken ou t an d the soup thickened piece of g l aze s te wed do wn rich ; se rved on ,

wi th roux and rubbed th rough a fi n e sieve toas t wi th the gl aze poured ove r i t .

C E LE RY S AU T E —Cele ry s talks of an even si z e


,

boi l ed u p again wi th th e addi ti on of an equal ,

quan ti ty of B échame l sauce seasoned and ,


blanched then arrange d i n a s a fito i r wi th som e
,

served ( also called purée ) .


bacon tri m mings and a mince d sh al l o t hea ted ,

PU R E E O F C E LERY AN D ONI ON S — Same thoroughl y then moistened wi th equa l par ts of


,

as the preced ing bu t u sing a purée o f on ion s toma to and E spagnol e sauces si m mered til l ,
,

o r sauce soubi se to add wi th the ce l ery purée done ; served on toas t wi th the sauce poured
,
ove r .

in stead o f B échame l
M AYON N AI S E O F C EL E RY— T h e tender par t s
.

C ELE RY C ON S OM M E — T he vege tab l e s in the onl y should be u sed by cu t ting them in t o penc il
consommé s toc k compose d mostl y of cel e ry t o , s tri ps an i nch l ong washin g thoroughl y then , ,

give i t a pron ounced flavo r ; when s t raine d and d rained an d mixed wi th mayonnaise ; se rve d on
s k im med J ulienn e s trips of boile d celery a d d ed
,
a leaf o f l e t tuce .

to i t seasoned and served


, .
C E LE R IAC A for m of celery wi th a bu l bous
-

S T E W E D C E L E RY ON T OAST—Ce l ery s ta l ks roo t used as a sa l ad a n d for flavoring bu t li t t l e


, ,

all c u t abou t the same si z e l i k e asparagus , use d in h ote l work .

boiled tender i n sal ted water ta k en u p and , C E PES —A s trongly flavore d flat h eaded mush
arranged in a sa u toi r moisten ed wi th V é l o u té

, room impor te d I n c an s p reserved I n ol ive oil


, , .

sauce si m mered ; se rved wi th one end restin g


, S A UT E O F C EPE S O N T OA S T D rained
on toas t wi t h some of the sauce poured ove r
, from thei r oi l l igh tly fried I n pan wh en thor
, ,

the ends .
oughl y heated sp rinkl ed wi th l e mon j uice a n d
,

C ELE RY PATTI E S —The hear ts of eigh t heads chopped pars l ey arranged on toas t and served , ,

o f celery boiled til l tender drain e d then v ery ho t .


,

S TEWED C E PE S O N T OAS T —The c epes


,

pounded to a paste wi th a cupfu l each o f gra ted


ham c ream and fi ne b read c rumbs season ed
, , ,
drained from thei r oi l an d the n cu t i n sl ice s ,
42 T H E C U L I N ARY H AND B O O K .

arranged i n a sa u toi r wi th chopped p arsl ey ,


1 880 V e ry go o d : i
l gh te r th a n t h e 1874

s, ex ces
i ve l y d e a r
s .

mince d oni on s and gar l ic m ois tened wi th E s , 18 7 9 Co m p l e t e f a l u r e , i , f or u na e l y y i e l d s ma l l t t .

pagnol s sauce si m mered ; served on t oas t wi th 1 87 8 Goo d ; fi n e ; l g h t i .

, 187 7 i
M e d o c r e ; ac d i .

sauce around 18 76 M e d o c re . i
Pa s s a b l e .
B ROI L ED C E PE S ON T OA ST—D rain ed fro m
.

18 7 5
187 4 V e ry fin e . b ot h as t o v no s ty an d c ol o i i r .

h a s b e e n g r e a t l y S o u g h t a f te r
their oil seasoned wi th sal t and pepper r ol le d
, , 187 3 i
B ad ; a c d , a n d n o t w t h s t a n d n g h a , d e a i i
.

t t r .

i n fresh bread cru mbs broile d ; serve d on toas t 18 72 F i


a rl y g oo d .
,
187 1 Me d o c e i r .

wi th M ai tre D H Ote l bu t ter poured over them


, 1870 Go o d .
1869 Pa s s a b l e
a n d garnishe d wi th l emon and parsley
.

1 868 V ar y g o o d , e l e g a n t , a n d l g h t e h an t h e i r t
i
.

OM E LET WIT H C EPE S —T h e c epe s d rain ed ,


1 8 67
s65 ’ s
Me d o c e i r
.

cu t i n sl ices f ri ed in bu t te r wi th a cru sh e d 1 866 B ad .

Wi
,

cl ove of garl ic taken up and m i xed w i th a l i t tle 1 865 n e o f s u pe r o q u al t y ; ve y v n o u s . i r i r i


C H AN TI L LY—I s th e t i tl e g iven b y confec tion ers
,

C olber t sauce ; se rved encl osed i n a savory


omele t wi th more of the c epes i n sauce poured
,
to a form of baske t m ade o f c ak es choux pas te , ,

around candied peel s al mon d paste e tc fi lled wi th


CE R CE L L E S — Th e F rench n ame so me ti mes
.
. , , ,

whi pped c ream C h an ti l ly c ream i s si mp l y .


seen on bill s of fare fo r T eal whipped c ream
C H AN TIL LY S OU P —F resh green peas a bunch
.

C E R V E L AS — T h e French n ame for a h ighl y ,

spiced smal l sausage o f th e bol ogn a orde r ; can of fresh min t some g reen on ion t ops and a ,

be purchased a t th e I tal ian a n d Del icatessen p iece of sal t pork boiled toge th er i n good ch ic k
s tores . en s to e k ; when d on e th e pork remove d the ,

CE R E AL I N E — A wh i te fl aky pudding m ateria l s tock thickene d wi th roux th en ru b bed through ,

p repare d from In d ian corn ; al so boile d plai n a sieve th e purée boiled up again and seasoned ;
,

a n d eaten wi th cream as a break f as t cereal ; serve d wi th c r o fit o n s .

m ad e in to pud d ings accor d ing to the vari ous C H ARC O AL O n e of th e ki tch en essen tia l s for
recipes of th e ven d ors p ri n ted on the si d es of , good b roil ing sh oul d b e k ep t d r y i n a goo d
,

the pac k e ts i n which i t i s sold . cellar ; o f ten ti mes bough t by the l oa d th e loa d ,

C E RV E LLE S —French n am e fo r an i ma l b rain s , presu med to con tain so m an y bushel s ; when


“ ”
for recipes see brain s , . happen ing to be delivere d as man y thin gs are
C HAB LI S —T h e n ame of a wh i te F rench wi n e , i n bul k d u ring the s te ward s absence the fol
,

p rincipall y u se d for cook ing purposes b u t so me ,


l owing capac i ties o f cri bs and boxes for po ta
of the brands of the genuine a r ticl e are h ighly t o e s and o the r roo t vege tabl e s c oal charcoal , , ,

pri ze d f o r thei r digestive a n d h eal th giving e tc will be f oun d rel iabl e a n d use f ul :
.
,

qual i ties such as M on trache t C l os B l anch o t


, , ,
[ T h e U n i ted S tates s tan dard ( Winch ester )
and M ou tonn e .
bushel I 8 % inches i n d i ame ter a n d 8 i nches
C H AFIN G D I S H —A vesse l h ea ted fro m th e
, ,

deep con tai n s


, cubic inche s ]
un d ern ea th by a spi ri t lam p also by elec trici ty ; ,
O n e c u b i c f o o t e q u al s f o u r fi f t h s o f a b u s h e l - .

i s use d f o r keeping a n d serving foods h ot or , A b o x 3x3x3 2 7 c u bic fe et and h o ld s 2 1 bu shels


cook ing on the table ; f o r recipes see Ch afing “ A b o x 5x3 x2 30 24
,
A b o x 5 x 4x 3 45 36
D ish Cookery i n the C H E F S RE M I NDE R
“ ’ "
A b o x 5x 3 x 4 60 48
A b o x 7 x 5 x 3 9 —13 I %
.

C H AM PAGN E— A wine prepare d from g rapes ;


. 1 04
A b o x 7 x 7x 7 3 43 27 4
the bes t varie ties are m an ufac tured a t E pern ay A b o x 8 x8 x8 5 12
,
A b o x 10x 10x 10 1 000 8 00
Rhei ms a n d M areui l i n F rance bu t th e vi n
C H A R L O TTE — I s the n ame given to wh a t migh t
,

tages of each year are vastl y d i ff e ren t a n d ,


be called a shel l of b read cake l ad y fi ngers
some ti mes the grape c rop i s a d ismal failu re .
, , ,

e tc cu t to fi t i n to a mold o r pan which i s then


H ence ch ampagn e dri nkers i n E u rope and ,
.
,

fil le d wi th frui ts c reams custard s e tc .

G rea t B ri tai n are verse d on th e m eri ts and d e , , ,

C H AR T RE U SE — I s th e n ame of a l iqueur made


meri ts o f th e variou s v in tages Wh ile i n the .

i n three co l ors g reen yello w and whi te ; origi


Un i te d S tates bu t very l i t tl e a t ten ti on has thu s
,
, ,

n all y made by the mon k s o f a French monas tery


far been pai d to the m at ter ; the fol lo win g cl i p
a t D au phine i n th e Al ps moun tai ns T here
p in g from the H o t e l Wo r l d o f L on d on Eng
.
,
,
are however d ishes de d icate d to these monks
lan d will doub tl ess be o f in te re s t :
,
,


,


,

Y l el d in
cal l ed char treuses ; they are ma d e of various
Y e ar g al l o ns Ch a r ac t e r of the wi n e s rich foods such as p rairi e hens fi sh par tri d ges
, , , ,

18 9 1 P a s s a b l e b u t v e r y d e ar
,
.
larks sni pe squabs chicken s f rui ts e tc e h
Or d i n a r y q u a l i t y
.
, , , , , ,
18 90
V e r y g o o d p r i c e e x c e s s l ve l y h i g h
,

1 8 89 , . closed i n a m old or shell of a much more com


1888 Pa s s a b l e
mon ma teria l bein g a d isgui se i nasmuch as
.

18 8 7 Fa i r l y g o o d l i gh t , . , ,

1 886 So m e g o o d w i n e s wi t h a b u n d a n c e o f v l n
.
the m on k s were under seve re d i c i p l i n e a n d
o s t ry ; b u t f o r t h e m o s t p a r t t h e v i n t a g e
,
. .

i s u n d e r s u s p i c i o n wh l c h t i m e h a s n o t s o
, were suppose d to be very f ruga l R ecipes for .

f ar l e s se n e d
ch ar treuses wil l be f oun d un d e r th e respective
.

1885 M e d i o c r e r e s e m b l i n g t h e 1883 s
.

.

188 4 Fi n e e l e g a n t win e s h ig h l y p r l z e d b y c o n
,
f ood which d emands i t .

n o is s e u rs

.


188 3 M e d io c r e a n d d e ar ; a c i d .
C H AS SE U R I s the F rench word for h un te r
18 8 2 5 68 M e d i o c r e ; a c i d ; i m m a t u re .
'
188 1 Pa s s a b l e .
a l a C hasseur mean s h un te r s s tyle sauce ,
T H E C U LI N ARY H AN D B O O K .
43

wi s h m e i i
'

Chasseur hun ter s sauce made from the '


c a me to G o o d N g h t a t 10o c l o c k i n t h e e ve n n g .
. , pro i t
w t h a n o e i n o n e h a n d a n d a r a o r s t r0 p i n t h e o t h e r I z .

c e e d s of th e hun t T h e p e o p l e n e t d 0 0r t h o u g h t w e w e r e x
got u nder th e bed
.

C HAT E AU B R I AND —I s th e n ame given t o a


.

i
h e a t ng c a r p e t s i n t h e h 0u s e I c a n n o t s i t d o w n c o m f o rt a b i y
.

i i i
y e t . 1 h a ve g v e n m y l t t l e s s t e r w h a t 1 h a d l e f t o f t h a t
s tyle of cooking a tenderl oin s teak be t ween two i r i t L m b u rg e c h e e se I t h o u g h t i t a p t y t o wa s e i t
. .

o thers of in fe rior cu ts a n d th en pressing th e WE L S H RA R EB IT —A l i t tl e bu t ter pl aced i n a


j uice of the t wo ou tside ones over the fi ll e t smal l shall ow sa u toi r ; when mel te d fi nel y cu t .

B u t some cooks si mply take a fille t stea k spl i t c h eese added to i t seasone d wi th sal t red pep , ,
, ,

s tu ff and b roil i t serve i t wi th a M ai tre D H Ote l ’

,
pe r d ry mustard and Worcestersh i re sauce ; ,
bu t ter m ixed wi th beef gl aze and c al l th at
“ ”
a s i t begin s t o mel t al e a d d ed till i t becomes
,
,
Cha teaub riand H istory say s the fi rs t i s
of a c reamy n ature ; a h o t d i sh wi th sl ices o f
.

righ t .

ho t toas t the cheese poured over i t an d se rved


C HAU D F R OI D —L i te ral l y mean s ho t co l d and
.
,

G O LD EN B U C K — I s the preceding wi th a
-
,

is applied to d ishes tha t are prepared ho t then poached egg on top ,


.

made i n to a form more sui table to ea t col d Y O R KS H I R E R A R EB IT— I s a G olden B uck ,

such as chaudfroid of game fow l par tri d ge wi th a s trip of broiled bacon on each side of
, , ,

woodcocks lar k s reed bi r d s pheasan ts plovers


, ,
th e egg , , ,
.

q uai l a n d turkey f o r recipes of wh ich see th e ,


O L D FAS H I O NED Y ORKS H IR E B UC K — A
sub hea d ing of the ar ti cles men tioned
-
slice of bread h alf inch thick th inl y spread wi th .

C H EES E —A mos t n u t ri ti ous food forming man y mus tard pl aced in hot oven t ill b rown m ois t
,
, ,

excellen t d ishes ; i t i s o f v arious k inds o f wh ich en e d wi th half a glass of al e covere d wi th a ,


,

the fol l owing are t o b e foun d in good ho tel s : sl ice of cheese quar te r inch th ick t wo th i n ,

Ski m cream fu ll cream che d dar s til ton


, , sl ices of bacon placed on the c h eese re tu rn ed
, , ,
,

roquefor t ca me mber t brie n eufchatel par


, to oven and cooked til l the ch eese i s mel te d
, , ,

m esan edam gorgon zo l a gruyere por t d u


, , and the bacon don e ; se rved very h o t
, ,
-
.

sa l u t sage sap sago and some ti mes on the ba r


, ,
-
,C OTTAG E C H EES E — A goo d way t o u se u p
and in G er man clubs may be found L i mbu rger sour milk ; le t the mil k sou r to c l o tn e s s boil in g ,
,

to describe which th e followin g s tory wil l aid wa ter then pou re d to i t s ti rred t urn ed i n to a , ,

wi thou t fur the r com men t co l ander l i t tl e cold wa ter poured over i t sal t , ,

LI M B UR G E R CH E E SE — M a s e n t m e t o p ay a b i l l a t t h e ad d ed a n d agai n stirred then p l aced in to a -


,

g r o c e rs l a s t Sa t u r d a y. T h e b o s b e h ind t h e c o u nte r mad e .


musl in bag an d d rained d ry ; served ei ther pl ai n
!

m e a p r e s e n t o f s o m e t h i n g wr a p p e d i n a p i e c e o f s i l v e r
p a p e r wh i c h h e t o l d m e wa s a p i e c e o f L i m b u rg e r c h e e s e
,
o r m ixed wi th cream So me ti mes a l i t tle c ream .
.

Wh e n 1 g o t o u t s i d e t h e s h o p I O p e n e d t h e p a p e r a n d wh e n
. a n d fin ely chopped ch ives a re added to i t before ,

I s m e l t; w h a t was i n s i d e I f e l t t i re d I t oo k i t h o me a n d p u t
I n t h e m o r n i n g I we n t t o i t a g a i n
serving especially for the bar l unch
. . .
, .

i t i n t h e c o al s h e d I t
C H E E S E S C ALL OPS — In d iv idual pa t ty pan s
. . . .

wa s s t i l l t h e r e N o b o d y h ad t a k e n i t
. I wo n d e r e d w h a t I .

c o u l d d o wi th i t F a t h e r a d m o t h e r we re ge t t i n g r e ad y t o
n
.
bu t tered then lin ed wi t h s lices of ch eese an , ,
1 p u t a p ie c e i n t h e b ac k p o c k e t o f f at h e r s
'
go t o c h u r c h
egg then b roke i n to the cen ter season ed wi th
.

p a n t s a n d an o t h e r p i e c e i n t h e l l n i ng o f m a s m u h
’ ,
, I .

wa l k e d b e h i n d w h e n we s t a r t e d f o r c h u r c h I t w as b e g i n peppe r a table spoonf u l of milk or c ream


. . ,
-

n i g t o g e t wa r m
n Wh e n we g o t i n c h u r c h f a t h e r l o o k e d
.
poured over the egg then dredged wi th gra ted
.
,
-

a n x i o u s a n d m o t h e r l o o k e d a s i f s o me t h i n g h a d h a p pe n e d
,
.

A f t e r t h e fi rs t; h y m n m o t h e r t o l d f a t h e r n o t t o s i n g a g a i n
.
cheese an d slowly baked fo r t wen ty m inu tes
. ,
,

b u t to k e e p h i s m o u t h s h u t a n d b r e a t h e t h r o u g h h i s n o s e , turned ou t and served on d ry or fried toas t . .

A f te r t h e p r a y e r p r e S p i r a ri o n s t o o d o n f a t h e r s f ac e a n d
E S T R AWS — O ne pound o f flour three

,
C HEE S ,

t h e p e o p l e i n t h e n e x t p e w t o o u r s g o t u p a n d w e n t Ou t
,
. . .

A f te r t h e n e x t h y m n f a t h e r w h i s p e r e d t o m o t h e r t h a t h e quar ter pound of gra ted ch eese fou r r a w yolks . ,

t h o u g h t s h e h a d b e t t e r g o o u t; a n d a i r h e rs e l f Af t e r t h e of eggs seasoned wi th sal t an d red peppe r .


, ,

s e c o n d l e s s o n s o m e o f t h e c h u r c h wa rd e n s c a m e r o u n d t o
,

s e e i f t h e r e w e r e a n y s t r a y r a t s i n t h e c h u rc h So m e m o r e
ma d e i n to a p aste rol l e d ou t th in o u t i n to
.
, ,

p e o p l e n e a r o u r p e w g o t u p a n d we n t Ou t p u t t i n g t h e i r . s t ri ps a nd bake d a s t raw col or


.
,
.

h a n d k e rc h i e f s t o t h e i r n o s e s a s t h e y we n t T h e p e rs o n C H E E S E S AVO R IE S —Water crackers spl i t


.

,
s a i d t h e y h a d b e t t e r c l o s e t h e s e rv i c e a n d h o l d a m e e t i n g
a n d th e open si d e thinl y spread wi th anchovy
,

o u t s i d e t o d i s c u s s t h e s a n i t a r y c o n d i t i o n o f h
t e c h u rc h .

Fa t h e r t o l d m o t h e r t h e y h a d b e t t e r g o h o m e o n e a t a t i m e bu t ter ; then wi th a pas te m a d e of t wo par ts . ,

M o t h e r t o l d f a t h e r to g o t h e n e a re s t w a y h o m e a n d d i s i n f e c t of roque f or t cheese to one par t of bu t ter sea


h i m s e l f b e f o r e s h e c am e Wh e n t h e y g o t h o m e t h e y b o t h
,
. .

s o n e d wi th sal t red pepper a n d a dash of sher ry


,

we n t i n t o t h e f ro n t ro o m b u t d i d n o t s p e a k f o r s o m e t i m e
. , . . .
,

M o t h e r s p o k e fi rs t a n d t o l d f a t h e r t o p u t t h e c a t o u t o f t h e
, win e ; served garn ished wi th th in sl ices of g reen
r o o m a s s h e t h o u g h t i t; wa s g o i n g t o b e s i c k I t wa s s i c k
,
gherkins . .

b e f o re f a t h e r c o u l d g e t i t o u t M o th e r t h e n tu r n e d r o u n d
.

a n d n o t i c e d t h a t t h e c a n a ry w a s d e a d
. .

M o th e r to l d f a t h e r C
.

H E E S E B I SC
.
U ITS — H a l f a pound each of
.

n o t t o s i t; s o n e a r t o t h e fi re a s i t m a d e m a t t e r s wo rs e bu t ter an d fl our four raw egg yo l ks ten ounces


. .


,
F a t h e r t o l d m o t h e r t o g o a n d s m o t h e r h e rs e lf M o t h e r s a i d
,

o f gra te d S wiss cheese on e table spoon f ul o f


.

she t h o u g h t s h e wa s s m o t h e r e d a l r e a d y
. Ju s t th e n t h e . .
,

s e r v a n t c a m e i n a n d as k e d i f s h e s h o u l d o p e n t h e wi n d o ws
,
d ry mustard and a l i t tl e r e d pepper the bu t ter , ,

as t h e r oo m f e l t ve ry c l o s e Fa t h e r we n t u p s t a i r s a n d
.
bea ten t o a c ream th e eggs and d r y ingre d ien ts
. .
,
o r a n g e a h i s c l o t h es a n d h ad a h o t b a t h Mo t h e r to ok
then adde d m a d e i n to a s ti ff d ough rolled ou t
.
,

f a t h e r s c l o t h e s a n d o ff e r e d t h e m t o a t ra m p w h o s a i d
'
, , ,
, ,

T h a n k s k i n d l ad y t h e y a r e a b i t t o o h i g h f o r m e ” o u t i n square biscui ts bake d twen ty minu tes



, , . . . ,

M o t h e r t h re w t h e m o v e r t h e b a c k f e n c e i n t o t h e c a n a l i n a ra ther sl ow oven and served .

F a t h e r was s u m m o n e d a f t e r wa r d s f o r p o i s o n i n g t h e fi s h
.

Mo e t h r w e n t to b e d. F a t h e r a s k e d h e r . i f s h e h ad b e e n
C H EESE R AMEQU IN S — H al f a pound each of
.

f u m ig a te d J u st t h e n f at h e r h ad a n ote se nt h i m
. . Fa th e r
. roque f or t and S wi ss cheeses one pound of bu t
. .
,
44 T H E C U L I N A R Y H AN D B O O K .

ter si x teen raw yo l k s of eggs and the i nsides


, , C HEES E O M E L E T — B ea ten eggs wi th a l i tt l e
o f fo ur b reak f as t roll s boiled in cream t ill so f t , c rea m season ed wi th sal t and r e d peppe r fri ed ,

th e whol e then m ade in to a pas te a n d then , i n omele t form bu t befo re b eing roll e d d re d ge d
,

m ixed l igh tly wi th the bea ten wh i tes of si x teen wi th gra ted cheese ; served wi th a d redgin g of
eggs ; fil le d in to fancy pape r c ases a nd baked a cheese on top m el ted i n the oven
, .

fi ne b rown ; served ve ry h o t . C HEE S E F IN G E R S — S trips o f pu ff p aste fi nger


C H EE S E B OM B E — I n to a choux pas te made of l eng th s ; wi th each fol d of th e paste grated ,

th ree quar te r pound of flour on e h al f poun d of


-
,
-
cheese i s rol l ed i n then cu t i n s trips egg , ,

bu t te r and a quar t of wate r work i n on e a t a washe d a n d baked


C H EE S E S AN D WI C H ES —
.
,

ti me twelve r a w yo l ks and eigh t wh i tes o f eggs , f T h i n s l ices of bu t

then th ree quarter pound of g ra ted S wiss


- t e r e d bread w i th a th i n sl ice of ch eese be tween ,

cheese ; cooked b y f ryi ng s mall spoon fu l s i n n o t o r spread wi th Pot ted C heese ( wh ich see )
"
.

too h o t fa t ; wh en done served wi th M on tpe l ier ,


C H E M IS E — A F rench te rm used to desi gn a te
bu t ter .
po tatoes boil ed i n their sk ins which they call ,

C HE ES E P L AN S — Scal loped ci rc l es of pu ff

pommes de terre e n chem ise ,

paste on one h al f of i t is spread a pas te m a d e


,
- C H E R R IE S —C al i f orn i a p roduces ou r bes t tab l e
o f t welve ounces o f parmesan cheese e igh t ,
cherries whil e m os t al l of th e s ta tes produce
,

ounces of bu t ter eigh t yolks a n d f ou r beaten


,
th e red and black sou r c ooking cherries Th e .

wh i tes of eggs th e o th e r h al f tu rned on to i t


, ,
followi ng cl i p p ing f rom th e S an F ranc i sco
e d ges p inched down arranged on baki ng shee t , ,
I Va v e wil l show h o w an i m men se c r o p i s
/


brushed over w i th egg wash b aked serve d , ,
han d led a t a C a l iforn i a ranch Probab l y
wi th watercress .
there i s n o b e t te r k n own an d cer tain ly there
C H E E S E C AS SE R O L E S — Sl ices of bread on e are f e w l arge r ranches i n the s ta te of C al i f orn ia
a n d a h al f inches thick t ri m me d ci rcular a , ,
th an tha t owne d by th e M eek e sta te I t i s si t .

cen ter then cu t ou t wi th col u mn cu t ter leav ing u a t e d a l i t tl e way ou tside the ci ty of Oakl and ,

a b o t to m di pped i n m ilk then b reade d an d


, ,
a n d i t cove rs a huge t ra c t of l and be tween S an

fri ed taken u p an d th e c en ter fi lled wi th a


,
Loren z o an d Hay wa rds I t i s spread over .

m i x ture m ade of t wo pa r ts bread c ru mbs on e ,


ac res of some of the fi n es t frui t be aring
par t gra ted cheese an d hal f a par t e ach of

,
coun t ry on th e Pacifi c coast A thousand .

mel te d bu t te r a n d mi l k ; seasoned wi th sal t a n d ac res of th is ex ten t i s i n frui t for the mos t pa r t ,

r e d pepper b a k e d q uickl y till cheese i s me l ted


,
cherries T he season s cher ry pickin g goes on
.

a n d served very ho t .
a t a gre at rate a n d a l i t t l e army of pickers toil
,

C H EE S E C U S T ARD — G ra ted cheese beaten ,


f rom tree to t ree s t rippin g th e branches l ike a
,

r a w eggs dr y m us tard sal t and peppe r beaten


, ,
swar m of locus ts T h e sigh t i s pic tu resque .
,

i n to m il k a t th e ra te of th ree eggs and fou r fo r the pick e rs c ome by fami lies a n d l ive in the
ounces of cheese to the q uar t ; poured i n to h o t ch erry o rchard i n a smal l vil l age of ten ts A t .

bu t tered sca l lop dishes and baked ; served i n t he h eigh t of the season n early 1 5 0 pickers are
t he di sh em p l oyed Th ey are of a ll ages and bo th sex es
.

C H E ES E P UD D I N G —I s th e same m i x tu re as
. ,

as the work i s of such a n a ture tha t i t can be


th e preced in g bu t the s ca110 p d i sh fi t ted wi th performed as well by women as by m en ; as
'

a sl ice of bu t tered toas t and the mix tu re ,


w e l l b y a ten year old g ir l as by a grown man .

poured over i t before bak ing .


T he pick ers are boarde d a t th e expense of th e
C H EES E S O U FF LE S A no the r n ame for ranch and besides receive f ro m 7 5 cen ts t o $ 1
,

C heese R amequin s ( which see )



, .
per d ay so th a t a wi f e and t wo o r th ree ch i l
,

C HE E S E FR IT T E R S —H al f a pound of g ra ted d ren can make as much d uri ng the fe w weeks


Parmesan cheese season e d wi th sa l t a n d red o f th e season as th e h ead o f th e h ouse i n an

pep per wo rked i n t o the bea ten wh i tes of eigh t en ti re year A fte r th e picking th e cherries
.
,

eggs ; cooked by fryin g sm al l spoon ful s i n ho t are tak en over t o th e packi ng h ouse and
fa t then taken up and rolle d in to gra ted ch eese
,
handled a t once ; th e riper cher ries are sor ted
m ixe d wi th fi nel y ch opped pars l ey ; se rved ou t and pu t upon th e loca l marke ts wh il e the ,

very ho t . more back ward a re shi ppe d Eas t The force .

POT T E D C HE E S E — G ra ted cheese to every , of packers can d ispose of 4 2 0 boxe s per day .

pound of wh ich is added fou r ounces of mel te d T w o thousan d boxes go t o th e car l oa d a n d ,

bu t ter and a tablespoon ful of b randy w i th a , mus t be hur ried to thei r des tina ti on as speedily
season ing of dry mustard a n d r e d peppe r ,
as possibl e for there i s n o frui t tha t l oses i ts
,

pressed i n to j ars c overed wi th parchmen t , flavor quicker b y overkeeping than the che rry .

paper an d kep t for use T hi s i s al so call ed . For th e same reason the boxes mus t be rapidly
“ "
C lub cheese a n d c an be bough t i n sm a ll j ars . m arke ted for they will n o t k eep man y hours
,


C HEE S E C O NE S T h e paste given for C heese

i n th e h ea t of an E as te rn su m me r T here a re .


S traws ( which see ) cu t i n squares and bak e d , ,
pl en ty of d i fficu l tie s i n the way o f ge t tin g the
th en a cone of wh ipped cream m ix ed wi th C ali f orni a che rry upon the tables of the Eastern
gra te d pa rmesan cheese fo rced on top wi th a con sumer bu t wi th ordin ary care and a fai r
,

bag and fancy tube . season t h e prices ob tainabl e are n ot bad I n .


THE C U LI NARY H AN D B O OK

wi th su g ar rolled up ends tucked i n pu t in


C hica g o a ten pound box of Cal iforn
-
ia cherries

, , ,

can be mad e to b ring a dol l a r i f p roperl y pan s an d s teamed o r bak e d o r tied i n we t ,

handl e d wh il e in N e w York though the E as t


,
flou red c l o th s and pl unge d i n to boi ling water
,
,

ern l oca l m arke t com es in to compe ti tion the kep t boil ing till don e ; serve wi th cherry sauce ,
.

same qua l i ty wil l some ti mes fe tch 1 2 cen ts per C H E R RY T A R T S — Tar t mold s l in ed wi th pu ff
pound . pas te fi l l ed wi th che rry mea t m ixed wi th sugar ,

C H ER R Y C OMPOTE —S ound l arge swee t cher


,

baked then meringue d brown ed and serv ed,

ries scal d e d for th ree minu tes i n a boiling C H E R R I E S I N C R O U S T AD E S —The o r c us


.
, ,

syrup made of two poun d s of sugar to th e q uar t tad es made of swee tened rice cro q ue t te m ix t u re ,

o f wa ter the ch erries then removed ; t h e syrup


, the e d ges d ecorated ; served h o t fi ll ed wi th ,

fl avored wi th n o ye au a n d when co l d added t o cherry compo te


, ,
.

the cherries ; served co l d i n sauce d i shes or C H E R R Y C H A R LOTT E S ma ll pan s l ined ,

h o t as a swee t en t rée wi th a borde r of swee t wi th l ady fingers fi lled wi th che rry marmal ade , ,

ened rice Cove red wi th fi ngers baked and gl a zed ; served


B R AN D IE D C H E R RI E S —R ound l arge swee t
.
,

w i th che rry sauce , , .

che rries scalded for two or th ree m inu tes in a C H E R R Y M A R M A LAD E S toned cherries
boiling syrup composed of on e pound of suga r wi th some o f thei r kernels boi l ed to a pul p wi th
to each quar t of wa ter then taken up an d l aid a very l i t t l e wate r an d t welve ounces of sugar
, -

on dishes to cool a f terward s fi lled in to wide , to each pound of fru i t ; when sm oo th and s t i fl
mou the d bot tl es T he syrup they were sca l de d . poured in to c rocks fo r f u t u r e use .

i n then boile d up agai n wi th an other pound of C H E R R Y C OB B LE R S ha ll o w bakin g pan s


sugar added to each quar t scum removed as i t l ined wi th shor t pas te sides an d bot tom filled
, , ,

ri ses ; wh en clea r taken o ff the s tove and a l wi th cherry mea t mixe d wi th sugar cove red

, ,

l owe d to beco me cold then an e qual q uan ti ty wi th shor t pas te egg washed and baked ; serv ed
, ,

of b randy added T h e bran d ied syr u p then . wi th cherry sauce .

poure d ove r the cherri es i n th e bo t tles wh ich C HE R R Y T R I P LE — Pieces of s ta l e sponge ca k e ,

are herme tically sea l e d and pu t away for use m o is ten ed w i th equal par ts of the sy rup of .

B OU C HEE S O F C H E RR IE S —F or recipes of bran d ie d cherries a n d sherry wine smoothed ,


frui t bouchees see B ouchees down in to a d ish then sp read wi th cherry ,
'

G L A Z ED C HER RIE S WITH WH IPP E D m armal ade over which i s poured a boi l ed cus ,

C R EAM —B randied cherries the syrup poured tar d fl avore d wi th n o ye a u the cus tard decora
, ,

o ff and boiled down till th ick and g rainy th en t e d wi th brandie d che rries , .

fl avored wi th K i r s c h e n was s e r a ll owe d to b e C H E R R Y FR ITTE R S — Thin s l ices of fresh ,

come col d then poured ov e r th e cherries ;


,
bread spread be tween wi th cherry marmala d e ,

served around a d ome of whipped cream forced th e sandwich then neatly tri m med di ppe d in to ,

th rough a bag wi th fan cy tube ( ca l led CE R a thi n ba t ter and fried taken up ro l led in , , , ,

I SE S G L A C E S a l a C H AN TILLY ) ,
powdered sugar ; served wi th cherry sauce . .

C H E R R Y J EL LY — F i ve p o u n d s o f s toned che rry C HE R RY FL AWN —A fla w n mold l in ed wi th


'

mea t j uice of eigh t l emon s on e poun d of red


,
pu ff pas te fill ed wi th cherry mea t mixed wi th
, ,

curra nt j elly a n d some bruised cherry ke rne l s sugar b aked i n sl ac k oven ti l l don e ,
.

m i xe d an d brough t to the b oi l i n a gallon o f C HE R R Y WA T E R I C E — On e pound of s toned


syrup si mmer e d a nd s k i mme d removed from
,
cherries and hal f po u n d o f sugar to each quar t ,

th e fi r e a nd four ounces o f d i sso l ved gelati ne of wa ter wi th a d ash of l e mon j uic e and a ,

a d ded th e n strained and res trained th rough a


,
flavor of bi t te r al mond s th e s ton ed cherries , ,

j ell y bag till cl ear fi lled i nto mold s or glasses ; brui sed kernel s a n d sugar m i xed and rubbed
,

served when se t . th rough a fi n e sieve in to the fl avored water ;


C H E R RY P I E — S toned red sou r cherries s l igh t t hen froz en
m ixe d wi th sugar C H E R R Y S H E RB E T —
.

l y fl avored wi th n o ye au , T h e water ice of the ,


fi l l ed in to a p ie plate l ine d wi th pi e p as te th e preceding recipe bu t when n ear l y fro zen , , ,

frui t the n spri n k led wi th carbon ate of sod a t o whipped whi tes of eggs t wo to the quar t are , ,

preven t the j uice run ni n g over covered wi th a a d de d then f rozen till don e , ,
.

top c rus t edge s p resse d an d c ri mped brushed C H E R R Y M E R IN G UE — Shee t of sponge cake


, ,

wi th egg wash and bak ed spread th ickly wi th cherry m arma l a d e then


.
,

DEEP C H E R R Y P I E — Sound red or black sou r spread fancifully wi th meringue dot ted wi th ,

c h erries m i xed wi th sugar fi lled in to a deep brandied cherries bak ed a s traw col or cu t i n
, , ,

l ined pie d ish h e aped h igh in the cen te r c c v


, sh apes se rved wi th cream o r wh ipped cream , , .

ere d wi th top c rus t egg washe d a n d ba k ed C HE R VI L A garden herb wi th a combined


.
, ,

C HE R RY P U DD IN G M ol d s o r b owl s l ined fl avor of pars l ey and fennel .

wi th shor t paste fi lle d wi t h cher ry mea t mixe d C H E S TN UTS Th e l arge ones ob tain ab l e a t
-
,

wi th sugar covered wi th top c rus t boiled or


, mos t I tal ian s tores are the bes t sui ted fo r cul i ,

s teamed till don e ; served wi th che rry sauce n ary purposes th e small ones seen a t the f rui t .
,

C H E R R Y R O LY — P O LY —Swee t biscui t dough s tal ls being far too tedi ous They s h ou l d be .

rolle d ou t thin s pread wi th cherr y mea t m ixed


.

fi rs t cu t th rou g h the shel l i n the form of a


,
46 THE C UL I N A R Y H AN D B OO K .

c ross so as to s t ri p the shel l o ff easil y then


, cu t i n to very sm a ll d ice mi xed wi th m inced ,

pl aced in a bakin g pan pu t i n to a slack oven mu shroom s season ed wi th lemon j uice sa l t and
, ,

till d on e ; o r they may be boile d ti ll d on e and nu tm eg bo i l ed do wn th ick i n V é l o u té sauce , , ,

then husked S ome peopl e l i k e to ea t boile d


. turn ed in to a sh all ow bu t te red pan smoo the d ,

ches tnu ts th e wa ter bein g flavored wi th an i


, wi th a k ni fe covered wi th bu t tered paper ; ,

seed ; when husked m a d e hot again i n a l i t t l e when c o l d cu t in to even si zed pieces forme d
, , ,

me l te d bu t ter . i n to con e sh apes b reade d fried served wi th , , ,

C HE S T N U T F O R C E M E AT — C hestnu ts boiled mu sh roo m sauce poured aroun d and garn ished


a n d h usked pound ed to a paste wi th b u t ter
, wi th c roque t te frill s , .

mi xed wi th a l i t tle g ra te d h am b readcru mbs M IN CED C H I C KEN C UT L E T S S A UC E B O R , ,

D E L AI S E —T h e c roque t te m ix ture prece d ing


,

minced on ion g rate d lemon rind yolk s o f eggs


, , ,

season ed wi th sal t a n d pepper ; used t o s tu ff wi th th e addi tion of a season ing of m inced fried
poul try and suc k l i ng pigs shallo ts thy me and chopped parsley ; when
.

D EVIL LED C H E S T N UT S — B oiled pee l e d


,

cold cu t i n to even si ze d pieces shaped l ike , , , ,

f rie d b rown i n bu t ter oi l t aken up and sprin k s mal l l amb ch ops usi ng a piece of macaron i to
,
,

l e d wi th sal t a n d red pepper represen t th e b on e ; b rea d e d and fri e d ; served


.

PU R E E O F C H E S T N U T S — B oi l ed pee l ed wi th B ordelaise sauc e poured around an d gar , , ,

pounded then rubbed th rough a fi ne sieve


, h ished wi th h ear t sh aped c r o fit o n s di pped i n .

C HE S T N U T S O UP — A th in c ream of ch icken toma to sauce and sprink l ed wi th chopped


s tock thic k ene d wi th a pu rée of c hestn u ts sea parsley ,

F R I C AS S E E O F C H IC K E N —Tende r ch icken s
.

s o n e d an d se rve d .

C H I AN T I — A l ow priced ye t good I tal ian win e c u t i n to j oi n ts seasoned wi th sa l t peppe r and , ,

wi th a B urgundy fl avor l emon j uice ro l led i n fl ou r l igh tl y fri ed i n


.
, ,

C H IC O R Y — A plan t the l eaves of wh ich are used bu t te r then pu t i n to V é l o u té sauce and si m


, ,

f o r sal a d s T h e roo t i s g round a n d use d to m ix


. me red till ten d e r ; Parisienn e po ta toes steamed ,

wi th co ff ee givi ng i t a s wee tish tas te and d ark


, then plun ge d in t o boiling fa t an d l igh t l y
col or C hicory shoul d be d iscarde d f rom c o fle e
. b rowned ; bu t ton mush room s s au tée d i n bu t te r ; .

E minen t physici an s cl ai m i t has a d ebil i tating t h e sauce the ch icken s we re s tewe d i n fi n i shed
e ff ec t a n d a ten d en cy to e xc i te l oosen ess of th e
, wi th a l iaison o f egg yol k s and c ream Serve d .
,

bowel s S teward s who buy cheap g round co ff ee


. th e ch ic k en wi th sauce pou red ove r and su r ,

will i nvariabl y fi nd i t adul te ra te d wi th ch icory rounded wi th al tern a te po ta toes and m ush rooms ,
.

and the chicory adul te ra te d wi th V e n i ti an red Fricassee of ch ic k en m ay al so be m ad e of ,

acorn s bean s peas co ff ee husk s ry e parsn ips


, , boil e d ch icken s th e sam e way o r u sing col d
, , , , ,

damaged whea t d ried co ff ee g round s sawd us t , boi l ed on es ; the garn ish may a l so be om i t ted , ,

bark l ogwood dus t e tc


, M O R AL : d o n o t o r changed to th e fancy of the cook
, . .

h andl e i t a t al l buy wh o l e co ffee an d see i t C H I C KEN P I E — Ch icken s boile d wh ol e ti ll ten


,

ground yourse l ves .


d e r wi th an on ion an d piece of sal t por k ; when
B R O I L E D C H I C K E N S pri ng ch ickens c l ean e d don e taken u p th e b reas ts and legs pulled o ff
-
, , , ,

spli t the breas t and backbon e re move d th igh


,
th e back b ones th rown in to th e s tock th e l egs , ,

bon e snappe d seasone d wi th sal t an d pepper, c u t i n ha l ves th e unde r breas t separa ted and , , ,

b rushed wi th bu t ter b roi l ed wel l don e ; served i f th e uppe r b reas t i s l arge cu t i n t wo i f sm a ll


, , ,

on bu t tered toas t garn ish e d wi th le mon and ,


le f t whole ; th e pork c u t i n to dic e the chicken ,

watercress u sing f ril ls on l eg an d wing bones


,
then p u t in to bak in g d ishes wi th th e pork .
,

F R I ED C H I C KE N S pring ch ic k en s cl eane d sl iced har d boiled eggs raw Parisien n e po ta , ,

spl i t down the back b reas t and backbon e t e toes and some choppe d parsley ; cove red wi th a
,

moved th igh bone sn apped rol le d i n bu tte r


, sauce made from the s tock they were boi led in
, , ,

then i n fl our f ri ed i n ski ll e t wi th a c over on ; reservin g some of i t the pie th en covered wi th


, ,

i t may also be b readed o r di pped i n bat ter shor t paste egg washe d and bak ed In serv
, , ,
.

a n d f ried in ho t fa t ; th e fi rs t way taste s th e in g give l iberal l y o f th e gravy using th e re ,

bes t . served sauce to replen ish th e pie .

S M O T H ERE D C H I C K E N — S prin g chicken s C H I C K E N P O T PIE —Ch icken s boi l ed wi th sa l t


spl i t i n h alves b reast and backbon e removed ,
por k and a few vege tabl es till ten d e r taken u p , ,

thigh bon e snapped season ed wi th sal t a n d and cu t as for chic k en p ie preced ing pu t in t o
, ,

pepper dipped i n mel ted bu t ter rol l ed i n fl our


, a pan ; sauce made of the s tock seasoned wi th
, , ,

a rran ged i n a bak ing pan wi th bacon fa t sl ice d sal t peppe r n u tm eg l emon j uice and chopped , , , ,

vege tables and swee t he rb s moisten ed wi th a parsl ey poured over th e ch ic k en s ; spoon f ul s


, ,

l i t t l e ch ic k en gravy ano th er pan p u t ove r as a of d umpl ing m i x tu re dropped close toge the r al l
,

l id baked bas te d a n d tu rned til l d one a n d


, ,
over i t ; ba k ed a n d se r ved O r th e ch icken .

b rown tak en up ; gravy m ade i n th e p an th ey


,
when cu t up may be pu t i n to an o th er saucepan , ,

were c o oked i n s t raine d sk i m med a n d se rve d,


covere d wi th t h e sauce dum pl ings pu t al l ove r
, ,

wi th the chick en s . i t l id pu t on a n d th e d umpling s coo k ed by , ,

C H I C KEN C R O Q U E TT E S — C old roas t ch icken thus having th e sauce boiled r o u n d th e m ‘


.
48 T H E C U LI N AR Y H AND B O O K .

ed wi th bu t ter and flOu r served wi th a rich ,


-
r o l led i n flour fried a golden b rown wi th bu t ter
, ,

M ad é i r a s a u c e po u red around
'

'

.
pl ace d i n to a s a fito i r b ro wn sauce m ade of the ,

C HI C KEN WI T H C H E S T NU T PU R E E AN D s toc k they were bo ile d i n s t rain ed ove r th e ,

VEGE T AB LE S —C ol d roas t C h ic k en s cu t i n to fried chicken si m me red til l ten d e r th e cook ed


, ,

j oin ts and tri mmed bone removed and i ts pl ace ,


vege tables cu t in to la rge dic e m i xe d w i th ,

fi l led wi th a s ti ff pu rée of ch es tnu ts moi s tened


'
cooke d green p eas m oi s tene d w i th gravy and ,

wi th a l i t tl e c ream toge ther wi th th e grated ,


kep t ho t i n i t ; serve d the ch icken i n sauce sur ,

rin d of a l emon the s tu ff ed j oi n ts then dipped


,
rounded wi th the vege t abl es .

i n l i mpid aspi c j ell y and allo wed to se t t hen ,


B R A I S E D C H I C KE N WI T H M AC AR ON I
d ecora ted wi th a piping of Ravigo te bu t ter ; Old fowl s singe d dra wn washed and wiped , , ,

served a col d dish covere d wi th c risp l e t tuce


,
then s teamed for an h our t ake n up cu t i n to , ,

leaves a t th e ends a tri angul ar shape of mace


,
j oin ts pl aced i n a s a fito i r wi t h vege tab les a n d
,

d o i n e of vege tabl es m i x e d wi th salad c ream ,


spices mois t en ed wi th M a d ei ra sauce l i d pu t
, ,

the ch ic k en j oin ts res tin g on the salad and ,


on sa u toi r pl aced i n ho t oven a n d th e ch icken
,

tar tar sauce in the cen ter .


b rai sed ti l l tende r then taken u p i n to ano the r ,

s a fit o i r and th e b raise s train ed ove r them ;


R O AS T C H I C KEN WI T H M US H ROO MS
AN D B READ SA U C E Young ch ic k en s d rawn -
macaron i in in ch l eng ths boil ed i n s tock wi th
,

singe d washe d t russed wi t h sl ice s of bacon an on i on ; wh en don e d rai n ed sprinkle d wi th , ,


, ,

tie d Ove r th e b reas t roas ted an d baste d and Parmesan cheese an d chopped parsley ; served ,
, ,

the ch icken i n sauce surrounded wi th th e mac


(

when nearl y d on e th e bacon re mo ved a n d the


aron i .

breas t brown ed ; served wi th bread sauce a t


B R O I LE D C H I C KE N H U NTE R S S TYL E ’

on e end of the d ish sau t ee d mush rooms i n ,

,
S pring ch ic k en s s in ged spl i t down th e b ack ,
sauce as a border a l so a garn i sh o f f resh c risp ,

,
backbon e a n d b reas tbon e removed s teeped fo r ,
wa te rcress
an hou r in a mi x ture of ol ive oil mince d on ion s
.

CH I C KE N S M ARYLAN D S TY LE Spring ,

,
chopped parsley sal t pepper a n d l emon j uice , , ,

chicken s singed spli t down th e bac k the breas t , ,


take n u p ro l l ed i n f resh b readc r umb s broi l e d ,
bon e and back bon e removed l ef t i n halves for ,

,
well done ; se r v e d wi th sauce C hasseu r p o u red
res tauran t an d the leg a n d breas t separa ted
,
around an d garn ished wi th l e mon a n d parsley .

for hote l orde rs mak ing four por tion s O f each ,

E PI G R AM M E O F C H I C KEN T O M AT O
,
,
ch icken ; season e d wi th sal t a n d pepper d i ppe d ,
S AU C E Youn g ch icken s singed d rawn , ,
i n bea ten eggs then fresh b read c ru mbs ar , ,
washed a n d wi ped blanched taken up a n d , ,
range d i h baking pan wi th sl ices o f bacon ,
separa ted in to fou r j oin ts th e breas t a n d under ,
brush ed wi th mel te d bu t ter roas ted and baste d ,
b reas t season ed wi th sa l t an d peppe r then ,
wi th the bacon fa t ti l l d on e ; serve d th e ch ic k ,
breaded arrange d i n a bu t tered s a fi to i r roas ted ,
en res ti n g on a c orn f ri t te r fl anked wi th two .
,

,
and bas ted ti ll tende r an d b rown th e legs ,
s l ices of th e bacon a n d a l ad l e of B échamel ,
bon ed th en fi lled wi th ch ic k en forc e mea t
, ,
sauce poured around
braised and gla zed ; se rved a fan cy c ro fit o n in
.

B OIL E D C H IC K E N WI T H SA LT P O R K cen ter of d i sh wi th a gl a zed l eg a n d b ro w n e d


PA R S L E Y S A U CE —S mal l chic k en s abou t t wo
,

b reas t res ting on ei the r side and a rich tomato ,

poun d s each i n weigh t sin g ed d ra w n washe d , , , sauce poured aroun d .

an d p u t to boil wi th a p iece of sal t pork an , B L AN C H E D C H I C K E N WIT H V E L O U I E


’ ‘

on ion s tuck wi t h cloves carro t and ce l ery ; , S AU C E — Young whi te fl eshed ch icken s sin ged ,

when tender taken up th e breas ts an d l egs, , d ra wn washed t russed wi th a piece of bu t te r


, ,

Care f ull y removed backbon e an d tri m m ing s , si ze of an egg m i xe d wi th t h e j uice of a l em on


thrown back in to the s tock th e j oi n t s k ep t ho t , a n d a sea son ing of sal t and pepper in th e in si d e
i n whi te s toc k th e sauce ma d e of the l iquor
, of each ; arranged i n a s a fito i r wi th sl ices of
they were boi l ed i n ; se rved a b reas t o r leg , l emon and fa t bac on mois ten ed wi th a l i t tl e ,

a n d un d e r breas t flan k e d wi th a sl ic e o f th e wh i te s toc k l id p u t on s teamed i n th is way til l


, ,

pork a n d the sauce poure d aroun d


, .
tender ; serve d m as k ed wi th V é l o u t é sauce , ,

F R IE D C H I C K E N I N B AT T E R T O M AT O , a n d garn i shed wi th H ollan d aise pota toes .

S A U CE S pring ch icken s bl anche d wh ol e


,
M A T E LOT E O F C H I C KEN — Young ch ickens
then separa ted ( n o t cu t ) i n to fou r j oi n ts s teepe d , singed d ra w n washed si mme red for h al f an
, , ,

for an h our i n a m ix tu re of c hoppe d pa rsley ,


h our i n wh i te stock tak e n up j oin te d pu t i n t o , , ,

sal t peppe r m inced sh all ots l emon j uice an d


, , , V é l o u t é sauc e w i th a glass of wh i te w ine si m ,

ol ive oil then ta k en up and wi ped d i pped i n t o


, , me red till t ender then i s ad d ed small wh i te ,

a bat te r fried i n ho t fa t ; serve d wi th to ma to


, on ions ball s o f carro t an d turn ip ( some use
,

sauce poure d around . parsni p ) each of wh ich h as been boi le d i n con


H A R I C OT O F C H I C K E N WIT H V E G E som m e wi th a pinc h of sugar ; se rve d t he
T AB L E S —Ch icken s s i n ge d d r a w n and w ash ed
,

, ,
c h ic k en i n sauce garn ished wi th vege tables ,
.

then boi l ed whole wi th c ar ro ts tu rni ps a n d , C H I C KE N S A UT E WI T H M U S H R O OM S


on ion s ; when n ear l y don e t aken u p a n d c u t Young ch ic k en s sin ged d rawn washed o u t , , ,

i n t o j oin ts season ed wi th sa l t an d peppe r


..

, ,
i n to j oin ts s eason ed wi th sa l t an d p eppe r
, ,
T H E C U LINA RY H AN D B O O K .
49

fried i n oi l wi th herbs an d garl ic when brown , , til l tender wi th the add i tion of a g rate d green
,

taken u p and placed in to a s a fito i r bu t ton ,


appl e an d th e j uice of a l emon ; se rve d i n the
mushrooms then f ri e d i n the oil taken u p and ,
cen ter o f a borde r of d ry boiled rice .

pu t wi th the ch ic k en s surpl us oil then poured ,


B L AN Q U E T T E O F C H I C KEN WI T H T R U P
o ff fl our a d ded to th e pan
,
s ti rred mois tene d , ,
FLE S —Young wh i te ch ic k en s singe d d ra wn , ,

wi th ch icken s tock a n d M ad eira wi ne boiled ,


washed arranged in a s a fit o i r wi th sl ices of fa t
,

u p sk i mmed st raine d over the chic k en s wh ich


, , ,
bacon and some l emon j u ice m oi stened wi th ,

are then si mmere d till ten d er ; serve d garn i shed wh i te s tock l id pu t on a n d si m mered til l ten d e r
, ,

wi th the mushrooms ( ca l led C H I CKEN a l a ,


taken up and cu t in to j oi n ts pl ace d in to ano ther ,

M AR E N G O) . s a fi t o i r bacon and grease remove d


, Béchame l ,

H I C KEN S T UFF E D AN D STEWE D SA U C E sauce then poured i n boil ed up ski m med , , ,

M I LANA I SE —Youn g ch ic k en s s inged d rawn


,

, ,
s trained ove r the chickens ; served wi th i t ,

washed fi l l ed wi th a s tu ffi ng m ade of grated


,
sprink l ed wi th m ince d t r u fli e peel ings .

lean ham chopped h ard boiled eggs fresh S PI T C H C O CKED C H I C KE N C RAPA UD IN E


S AU CE —Spring chic k en s singe d spl i t washe d
, , ,

b read c rumbs ch oppe d parsley m inced shal , , , , ,

lo ts j uice of a l e mon and a seasoning of thy me


, , ,
bac k bone and breas tbon e remove d trussed ou t ,

trussed arranged i n a s a fito i r covered wi th


, . ,
l ike a frog season ed w i th sal t and peppe r
, ,

whi te stock lid placed on si mmere d and basted


, ,
rolled i n ol ive oil b roi l e d wel l d one ; se rved on ,

till ten d er ; served i n j oin ts wi th some o f the toast wi th c rapau d in e sauce poure d around ,

s tu ffing undernea th and M ilan aise sauce poure d garn i shed wi th parsley and l emon
ST EWE D C H I C K E N WI T H R I CE — Young
.
,

a roun d .

F R IED C H IC K E N WI T H CU C U M B E R C h icken s singed spli t j oin te d fried wi th O live


, , ,

P U R E E — Spring ch icken s singe d spl i t down ,


oil i n a s a fito i r ; when b rown surplus oi l poured ,

the back separated i n to fou r j oin ts backbon e


, ,
o ff m inced green peppers an d on ion s wi th a
,

and b reastbon e removed bl an ched i n wh i te ,


c l ove of garl ic ( c rushed ) then ad d e d and fri ed a
s tock for a f e w m in u tes then ta k en up an d ,
l i t tle more l igh tly sprinkl e d wi th flou r shook
, ,

coa ted wi th th ick cucumbe r sauce rolled i n , toge ther mois ten ed wi th consommé l id placed
, ,

bread crum b s then breade d fried ; served sur , ,


on and si mmered till ten d e r a n d gla zy then i s ,

roun d e d wi th a purée o f cucu mbers . a d ded som e slice s of p i me n to e s and chu tney
S T EWED C H I C KEN WIT H D U MPLIN GS wi th a glass o f M a d éi r a wine boi l ed up ; serve d ,

Youn g chicken s singed d rawn washed an d , , wi thin a border of d r y boiled rice tha t has been
j oin ted arranged i n saucepan wi th carro t
, , very sligh tl y fl avored and colored wi th cu rry .

onion ce l ery and tu rn ip m ois tened wi th whi te


, ,
S T EWE D C H IC KEN M EX I C AN S T YL E ,

s tock si m mered ti ll tende r tak en up sauce


, , ,
Youn g chicken s singe d spli t j oin te d fried , , ,

made of th e s tock th e vege tables rubbed ,


wi th ol i ve oi l in a s a fito i r till b ro wn ta k en u p ,

th rough a sieve in to the fi nished sauce dump ,


i n ano ther s a fito i r h a m and garl ic then fried ,

l ings s teamed ; served th e ch icken i n cen ter o f ,


i n the oil of a l igh t color su rpl us oil pou re d o ff ,

d ish d u mplin g a t each e n d sauce poured over


, ,
the on ions e tc then moi stened wi th equa l
, .
,

the whole sp rin k led wi th parsl ey d us t par ts of tomato and Espagnole sauces seasoned
F R IED C HI C KE N I ND I AN S TYL E —Spri ng
.
, ,

,
wi th thy me sage marj oram and s wee t pepper
, , ,

ch icken s blan ched whol e then j o in ted sea , ,


sim mered for half an hou r s k i m me d s t rained , ,

s o n e d wi th sal t pepp er an d rubbed wi th cu rry ,


ove r the chicken s wh ich a re then si m mered til l
powder fried brown i n bu t te r ; served wi th a
, ten d er ; raw toma toes peeled and the seeds r e
garn ish of stewed on ion s . move d cu t i n to p ieces an d s te w ed down thick
,

B R AI S ED F I L LE T S O F C H I CKE N H AN ,
wi th chi l i sauce ; se rve d the ch icken i n sauce ,

OVE R S AU CE — Old f owl s singe d d rawn , . wi th fancy c r o fi to n s a t en ds o f d i sh garn ished ,

washed s teamed for an h ou r th en cu t in to


, ,
a t the sides wi th th e toma to and ch il i mi x ture .

fi ll e ts arranged in a s a fito i r wi th spices a n d


, B R A I SED C H I C KE N S WI T H G R EE N P E P
vege table s mois tened wi th consommé braised
, ,
PE R S —Young chicken s singed d ra wn washed , , ,

til l tend er an d t he con som mé has reduced to fi lled wi th a s tu ffi ng made by boil ing yello w
half gl aze fill ets taken up i n to an o ther sa u toi r
, ,
corn meal wi th chicken s tock to mush ; when
the brai se s trai n ed in to a n H an ove r sauce and done mixed wi th f resh gra te d breadcrumbs
, ,

poure d ove r the ch ic k en ; served wi th i t and parmesan cheese bu t ter sal t and peppe r , , ,

garnished wi th fancy c r o fit o n s trussed wi th s l ices of bacon ti ed over the breas t


C H I C KE N C U R R IED WI T H RICE — Youn g
.
,

, arranged in a s a fito i r wi th on ion s carro t pars , ,

chicken s singed d rawn washed boiled for an , , , l ey bay leaves cloves an d a c rushed clove of
, ,

hour i n wh i te s tock taken up d raine d cu t in to , , , garl ic moistened wi th con som mé braised ti ll


, ,

j oin ts seasone d wi th sal t roll ed i n fl our fried


, , , tender and gla zy taken up b raise s trained , ,

brown i n bu t ter wi th sl ice d on ion s and a c l ove and skimmed then ad d ed to som e E spagno l e,

o f garl ic chicken then taken u p and p l aced i n


, sauce con tain in g green peppe rs s l iced and a ,

to a s afito i r spri nkled wi th curry powde r and


, season ing of curry powde r ; served the chick ,

flour s hook toge ther mois tened wi th th e


, , ens i n por tion s wi th s tu ffi n g undernea th sauce ,

s t ra ined s tock they were boi l ed i n sim mered , poured ove r g arn ished wi th the pep pers
, .
50 T H E C U L I N AR Y H AND B OO K .

B OI LED C HI C K E N W I T H V E G E TAB L E S C H A UD FR OID O F C H I C K E N — Spring chick


ALL EM ANDE S AU CE —Ol d f o wl s singe d
,

, en s a poun d an d a h al f each i n weigh t singe d , ,

d rawn washed and trussed p u t i n to saucepan


, ,
d rawn washed trusse d w rapped i n bu t tere d
, , ,

wi th c arro t c elery and on ion s cove re d wi th


, , pape r roas te d wi thou t b rown ing tak en up a n d
, ,

sal te d wa ter l id pu t on saucepan then p l ace d


, ,
al lowed to cool i n the pape r then separa te d ,

i n ho t oven chic k en s si m me red til l tender


,
i n to four j oin ts n eatl y tri mmed ; equal par ts of ,

( abou t three hours ) taken up Al l emande sauce , ,


aspic j el ly a n d Poule t te sauce m a d e warm
m ad e from th e rem ain ing s tock ; smal l balls of enough to m i x then sti rre d su rroun d ed wi th ,

carro t si m mered i n consommé till ten d er a can , b roken i ce til l th ic k the chic k en then di ppe d ,

each of l i m a bean s and fla ge o l e ts open ed a n d in to i t then arranged on a bak ing sheet to se t ;


,

washe d then m ixed wi th the carro t ball s sea


, , when se t d ecora te them wi th sl ices of tru ffles ;
,

s o n e d wi th sal t sugar an d r e d pepper ; serve d


, , the remain ing sauce fi l le d in to ti mbal e mol d s
th e ch ic k en i n j oin ts wi th sauce poured over , tha t have been l ined wi th aspic j elly and se t ;
a n d garnish ed wi th the m ixed vege tab l e s d rain ed served the chicken j oin t res ting on a c ro fit o n
,

ou t of the con so mmé .


of aspic j elly wi th the ti mbale tu rne d ou t 0 1
,

B O I LED L A R D ED C H I C KEN W I TH M AC the e n d o f the chicken the o ther end garn i shed
A R O N I —O l d fowl s singe d d rawn washe d
,

, , ,
wi th wa terc ress .

th e b reasts l arded trusse d arranged i n sauce , ,


CHART RE U SE O F CH ICKEN WITH
pan w i th carro t On i on s an d celery covere d , ,
S T R IN G B E AN S — Cold coo k e d ch ic k en th ree
wi th sa l ted wa ter l id pu t on si m mered i n ho t , ,
fi f ths ; lean cooked ham a n d fresh g rated bread
oven ti ll tender ; a rich yell ow sauce m ad e f rom c rumbs each one fi f th ; t he meats cu t in to very -

the re d uced liquor macaron i broken i n inch ,


small squ ares m i xe d wi th th e cru mbs toge the r
,

leng ths and boil ed i n sal ted water t il l done ,


wi th som e chopped ch erv il capers and a sea ,

tak en u p d rain e d season ed wi th papri k a par


, , ,
son ing of tarragon vinega r sal t a n d r e d pepper ; ,

m esan ch eese an d a l i t tl e of th e sauce f o r th e m ois ten ed w i th s tock and bea ten ra w eggs ;
chickens ; serve d the bird s i n j oi n ts wi th the ,
fill ed in to bu t tere d m ol d s wi thi n hal f an inch
sauce p oured ove r a n d spri nkled w i th parsley of the top l i d s pu t on and s teamed for an hour ;
,

d us t garn i shed wi th t h e m ac a r o n i
,
. allow them to sligh tl y cool be f ore tu rn in g ou t ;
STEWE D C H I C KEN S WI T H E STRAG ON served i n sl ices su rrounded wi th French strin g
,

O l d f owl s singe d d rawn j oin ted wash ed pu t , , , ,


bean s ( haricots ver ts ) tak en f rom th e c an s ;
i n to a s a fI t o i r wi th some fa t from th e top of the washe d then heated i n V é l o u té sa u ce
, .

s tock po t a fe w veal t ri m m ings a bunch o f


, ,
D E VI L LE D C H I C KE N LEG S WI T H B A C ON .

tar ragon an d some she rry win e c overe d wi th ,


— Skinne d ten d e r ch icken l egs scored l aid for , ,

wh i te s tock l id pu t on an d si m me red in a ho t
,
an hou r i n a mix ture of o l ive oil Worces ter ,

oven til l tender then ta k en up i n t o an o ther ,


shi re sauce l emon j uice red pepper and a n
, ,

s a fit o i r the remai ning s tock s t rai ned s k i m me d


, , ,
c h o vy e ssence then taken up and sl owly ,

a n d ad d e d t o a rich Poule t te sauce con tai n in g b roiled ; served res ting on a c r o fito n garn i sh ed ,

chopped tarragon l eaves ; served the chicken , wi th s trips of bacon an d som e sauce D i able , .

covere d wi th the sauce and garn ishe d wi th C H I CKE N F O R C E ME AT Wh i te m ea t of


slices of hard boiled ( ho t ) eggs . c ooke d ch icken th ree par ts ; wh i te brea d soaked
B R A I S ED C H I C KEN S WI T H V E G ETAB LE S i n ch ic k en s toc k then squeezed d ry on e par t ; , ,

— O l d fowl s sin ged d rawn washe d the b reasts , , , pounded toge the r t o a paste wi th t wo ounce s of
_

l ar d ed t russe d arranged i n saucepan wi th


, , b u t te r to each pound of mea t seasone d wi t h ,

some bacon tri mmings spices a n d vege tables , ,


sal t pepper n u tmeg and a l i t tl e l emon j uice
: , ,

mois tene d wi th whi te s toc k a n d M a d ei ra sauce then rubbe d th rough a fi n e sieve an d m ixed t o
i n equal par ts l id p u t on si m mered in h o t , , a s ti ff con sistency wi th egg yol k s a n d c old
oven ti ll ten d er t ak en u p th e braise s train ed , ,
V elou té sauce .

an d s k im med then poured over th e ch ic k en s ; C H I C K E N F O R C EM E AT B ALL S C U R R IED ,

W IT H R I CE— B all s of th e p rece d ing f orce


,

cans of macedoines opened an d washe d then ,

k ep t ho t i n con som mé ; served th e chic k en s i n ,


mea t poached i n a good curry sauce ; serve d
j oin ts wi th the sauce over garn ish ed wi th th e ,
wi th i t being arranged on the serving di sh
,

vege tables d raine d f rom the con som mé .


al terna tel y wi th smal l mold s o f d ry boiled rice .

B R AI SED C H I C KEN S WIT H M U S H R O OM S F I LLE T S OF C H I C KEN WI T H AS PAR AG U S


—O l d fowl s prepared bacon tie d over the ,
P OIN T S — S pring ch ic k en s on e and a hal f
breas t arranged i n a s a fito i r wi th vege tables
,
poun d s each i n weigh t singed d rawn wash ed , , , ,

a n d spices moi s ten e d wi th con som mé


,
l id pu t ,
boil ed j us t d one ta k en u p coole d s k inn ed , , , ,

on then braise d t ill ten d er and gla zy taken u p


, , ,
separated in to f our j oi n ts n eatl y t ri mmed t e ,

b raise s k i m m e d l s t ra i n e d an d a d d ed to bu t ton
,
hea te d i n a rich V il l e r o i sauce ; serve d masked
mush rooms tha t h ave been s au t é e d wi th bu t ter wi th i t garn ishe d wi th asparagus poin ts se a
,

an d then mi xed in to Bécha mel sauce ; serve d s o n e d wi th bu t ter .


,

the gl a zed pi eces of ch ic k en res ti n g on n ea t C H I CKEN C UTL E T S WIT H G R EEN PE A S


shape d piece s o f toas t su rroun d ed wi th th e S pring chicken s singed d rawn washed , , ,

m ushrooms in sauce . s teamed no t q ui te d on e taken up coo l ed ski n , , ,


TH E C ULI N A R Y H AN D B OO K .

ne d , separ a te d i n to fou r j oi n ts seasoned wi th , spoon s ; poached in whi te s tock til l th ey float ,

sal t pepper a n d n u tmeg d ippe d i n cool ing V I 1


, , taken u p and rolle d i n f rie d si f ted b read c rumbs
le roi sauce then i n bread crumbs then breaded
, , served su rrounded wi th bu t t on mus h rooms i n
a n d arranged i n a bu t tere d ba k ing pan roas ted , V é l o u té sauce .

a n d bas te d til l brown an d f ro thy ; serve d su r R I S S OLE S O F C H IC KEN —The salpi c on as


rounded wi th green peas moi stened wi th con “
given for Kromes k ies when c old cu t ou t ,

som me and bu t ter .


wi th a ci rcular cu t ter t wo shee ts o f pu ff pas te ,

SCAL L OPED C H I C K E N —C old cooked ch icken rolled ou t thin the ch icken place d ove r on e ,

mea t cu t in to thin s l ices mois tened wi th Alle , shee t covered wi th the o th e r s tamped o u t wi th
, ,

m ande sauce fi lled i n to scallop she l l s o r oval


, a f ancy edged c u t ter a r i a n ge d on a baking ,

deep dishes spri nk l ed wi th fresh bread c rumbs


, shee t brushe d ove r wi th egg wash and baked
, .

m i xed wi th Par mesan cheese sal t red peppe r , , S AU T E O F C H IC KE N WI T H B O U C H E E S


a n d n u tmeg then wi th m e l ted bu t ter arranged
, , Sprin g ch ic k en s singed d rawn washe d then , , ,

on a baking shee t h ea ted a n d browned ; served


, s teamed for fi ve m inu tes then separated i n to ,

i n the shel l or di sh garn i shed wi th wa terc ress


,
.
fou r j oi n ts n eatl y tri m me d scrapin g the l i t tl e ,

C H IC KE N K RO M E S KI E S S AUC E P E R I ,
mea t o ff the wing and l eg shanks to form
G UE U X —C ooke d chicken and tongue bu t ton , h andles ; seasoned wi th sal t pepper and pow ,

mush rooms an d tru ffles a l l cu t in to very sma ll dered thyme f rie d brown wi th bu tter then pu t

, ,

s quares and boi l ed d own th ic k in a rich V é l o u té in to Ma d ei ra sauce a n d si m mere d til l tender


sauce a l iai son of egg yo l k s a n d cream added
,
se rve d res tin g again s t a c r o fit o n wi th frill s on
,

ju s r a t the fi n ish then t urned in to a bu t te red


,
the shan k s sauce poured over th e mea t gar
, ,

sha ll ow pan smoo thed wi th a pale t te kn i f e


, , n is h e d wi th ve ry smal l pa t ties fi lled wi th
covered wi th bu t tered paper and allowed to sal pi c on .

become co l d then cu t in to even si zed pieces V O L AU VE NT O F C H I C KEN WI T H Q UE


- -

NE LLE S —La rge p at ty shell s wi th separate


, ,

formed to th e shape of long c or k s wrapped ,

roun d wi th a thi n slice of col d boiled bacon or covers fil le d wi th a sal pi c on o f ch icken cove r ,

udder p inned wi th a too thpick d ippe d in to


, , then p l aced on se rved wi th M a d ei ra sauce ,

ba t ter and frie d too thpick then remove d ; ,


poured unde r and garn i shed wi th sm all ,

served wi th Pé rigueux sauce . poached chicken quen el l es .

S ALPI C ON O F C H IC KEN W I T H P OTATO E S R OAST B O N E D C H IC KE N —L arge old fow l s


— Coo k ed chicken tongue mush rooms and , ,
and young hen s s inge d skin l ai d open d own ,

tru ffles cu t i n to s ma ll squares and ma d e ho t i n the back an d al l bon es removed the o l d ones ,

a rich Poule t te sauce ; served the serving dish , then l aid ou t fla t ski n si d e d own seasoned wi th ,

bordered wi th mashed po ta toes force d f rom a sal t peppe r n u t meg a n d powdered thym e a i
, , ,

bag and fancy tube sprinkled wi th parsley , t ern ate s trips of l ar d ing pork and red cooke d
dus t th e salpi c on i n th e c en ter
,
. tongue then pl ace d l eng th wise down the cen ter ,

C H IC KE N PATT IES S A U C E S U PRE M E ,


then covered wi th forcemea t th e young hen ,

The p reced in g salpi c on bu t o u t smalle r fi lle d , ,


wi thou t ski n l aid on top of i t so tha t t h e w hi te
in to p at ty shel l s ; served wi th S u pr eme sauce mea t covers the dark meat of the fowl ou ter ,

poured around .
sk in of the fo wl then drawn toge ther a n d sewn
S T EWED C H IC KE N GE RM AN STY L E ,
close l eavin g n o apertures ; again se wn up in to
,

O l d fowl s singed d rawn washed and trusse d


, , ,
a cloth s teamed for an hou r clo th then r e
, ,

arranged in a saucepan w i th g rate d green a p moved roasted and bas ted till wel l done a n d
,

ple s and on ion s c overe d wi th s toc k si mme red


, ,
tende r tak e n u p pressed ; when cold s tring
, , ,

i n h ot oven til l tende r Allem an d e sauce ma d e ,


remove d gl aze d ; served cold i n s l ices wi th
,

from th e red uced l iquor noodles boil ed i n ,


sa l ad .

s tock til l tender taken u p an d d rain ed then


, ,
B O ILED B ON E D C H ICKE N — S am e as th e
'

m ixed wi th s o m e o f the sauce ; se rve d the ,


p rece d ing b u t i n s tead of s teaming i t i s si m
, ,

chicken masked wi th sauce su rrounded wi th ,


m ered t i l l tende r i n whi te s tock con tain i n g
n oodles vegetabl es ; when done taken up p resse d i n , ,

C H I C KEN Q U E N E L L E F O RC E M E AT —R a w
.

the c l oth ; when cold c l oth an d s trin g re move d , ,

sk in l es s chicken mea t wi th a l i t tle beef sue t a ll adhering grease re moved wi th a ho t cl o th i t ,

m inced pounded toge the r to a pas te rubbed


, ,
i s then glazed ; served cold i n slices wi th salad .

throu gh a fi ne sieve wi th some bread tha t has G AL AN TIN E O F C H I C KEN —G al an ti ne mo l ds


been soaked i n m ilk and squee zed d ry seasoned , p l aced i n a p an of brok en ice sal t a n d wate r , ,

wi th fi n ely chopped parsley gra te d l e mon rin d , ,


l i mpid asp ic j elly pou red i n to coa t the sides ,

sa l t red pepper and n u tmeg worked to a s ti ff


, ,
which i s t hen d ecora ted wi th peas s trips o f ,

co n si stenc y w i th raw egg yolks bea ten wi th a tongue stam ped sl ices of tru ffle a n d wh i tes of
,

l i ttle cream . hard boiled eggs e tc the decoration s then ,


.
,

C H I C K E N Q U E N E L LE S WIT H M U S H coated wi th m ore l i mpid j e l l y a n d al l owed to


R OOM S —T h e forcemea t p reced ing ma d e i n to se t t he i n terior then fi lled wi th s l ic e s o f bo ne d
'

b a ll s or sha p ed l ike egg s be tween two desser t c hicken and l i mpi d j e ll y ti l l fu ll ( a l way s see ,
52 T H E CU L I N AR Y H AN D B OOK .

tha t the slices of are p l aced on edge ch ic k en , down th e b ack b reastbon e an d bac kbon e re,

N O T L AID F L A T ! so th at when i t is turned move d th igh bon e snapped seasoned l aid for
, , ,

ou t th e slice s may be removed wi th the j ell y


,
an hou r i n Worces tersh ire sauce ol ive oil , ,

ad hering merel y by the u se of a for k ) When . tarragon vinegar c hopped chives and chervil , ,

se t th e m ol d i s sl igh tly warme d wi th a ho t


,
taken u p rolle d i n fl ou r then i n me l ted bu t ter
, ,

cl oth then tu rn ed ou t th e d ish garn i sh e d wi th


, ,
and slowl y b roiled wel l d on e ; served wi th
c ro fi t o n s o f aspic j ell y c ress crisp sh re d l e t , , D iabl e sauce a n d garn ished wi th F rench peas
,
'

t u c e fancy sl ices o f p ickl e d bee t o r v ari ation s


, , tha t h ave been washe d d rain ed a n d sau t eed i n ,

a t th e coo k s fancy ’
. bu tte r .

F R IE D B R EA ST O F C H I C KE N WIT H C OR N F I L LE T S OF C H I C KEN WIT H C ARD IN AL


F R I T T E R S — S pring ch ic k en s sin ged d rawn , , S AU C E S pring chic k en s singed spl i t breas t
-
, ,

washe d and si m mered barely d on e taken up , , bon e and bac k bon e re move d thigh bon e snap ,

coole d s k i nn e d b reas ts remove d seasone d


, , , p e d season ed wi th sa l t a n d peppe r rolled in
, ,

wi th sal t pepper n u tmeg a n d pow d ere d thyme


, , , flou r and fried a gol d en brown wi th bu t ter ;
rolle d in m el ted bu t ter t hen i n fl ou r then i n , , served wi th C ar d in al sauce poure d unde r and
bea ten eggs a n d f rie d i n ho t fa t t a k e n u p a n d aroun d garn i shed wi th sl ices of tru ffles tha t

, ,

d raine d ; serve d w i th sauce S upr e me p ou re d have been s tewe d i n sherry win e .

unde r a n d garn i she d wi th sm a l l co rn f ri t ters


,
S T UFFE D B R EA ST O F C H I C KEN P E R I ,

and waterc ress . G U E U X S AU C E — B reas ts o f y oun g chicken s


B R EAS T O F C H I CKE N ST EA M ED S AU C E , spl i t open and fi lled wi th quenelle f orcemea t ,

S U P R EM E — Sprin g ch icken s si nged d rawn , , a rrange d i n a s a fi to i r wi th sl ices o f sal t pork ,

w ashe d t russe d a n d s tea me d till d on e ta k en


, , wh i te s tock and bu t ter si m me re d t il l ten d er ; ,

u p breasts re move d and skinn ed


,
then pu t in to , se rved res ting on fancy c r o fito n s wi th p erigueux
S upr e me sauce a n d served wi th i t garn ished ,
sauce .

wi th k idney bean s ( fla g e o l e t s ) .
S T EWE D C H I C K E N S AU C E R AVIG O T E ,

B R O IL ED C H I CKE N LE G S WI T H G R E E N Ol d fowl s singe d d rawn washe d j oin ted then , , , ,

PEAS —T h e s teamed l egs o f th e p reced ing r e arranged i n a s a fito i r wi th nu tmeg lemon , ,

ci pe sk inn ed then laid for an hou r i n a m i x


, ,
celery and sliced on ion s moi sten e d wi th whi te ,

ture of ol ive Oi l le mon j uice red pepper sal t , , ,


s tock l id pu t on s i m mered i n h o t oven till
, ,

a n d Worcestersh i re sauce then broile d slo wl y ,


ten d e r C h ives parsley shall ots chervil and
.
, , ,

to a golden col or ; se rved wi th a f ril l on the tarragon sh re d and bl anched on ion rings ,

shan k res tin g on a sl ice o f bu ttere d toas t gar


, ,
s teamed til l tender ; served th e chicken wi th ,

h i she d wi th F rench peas made ho t i n tom ato ravigo te sauce pou red around garn i she d wi t h ,

sauce . rings of On ion s fi lle d wi th th e blanche d herbs .

F R IE D S P R IN G C H I C KE N WI T H A RT I S T EWED C H I C KEN S A U CE P R OVEN C AL E ,

C H O KE B O T T O M S — Spri ng chic k en s singe d ,


—Young ch icken s singe d d ra wn washed , , ,

spl i t d own the back breas tbon e and backbon e , j oi n ted season e d w i th sal t and peppe r rol l ed
, ,

remove d seasoned wi th sal t a n d peppe r roll ed


, ,
i n flou r sau t eed i n ol ive oi l wi th m i nced sha l
,

i n fl our then i n beaten eggs a n d frie d i n h ot


,
lo ts a n d garl ic ta k en up in to an other s a fito i r
,

f a t til l d on e ; ar ticho k e bo t to m s spread wi th wi th sl ice d tom a toes mois tene d wi th c l are t ,

chicken f orcemeat ar ran ge d i n a s a fito i r moi st ,


win e a n d E spagnol e sauce si mm ered till ten ,

en ed wi th a ve ry l i t tle consomm é reduce d a n d ,


d e r fi n i she d w i th l emon j uice a n d chopped
,

glaze d th e ch icken serve d wi th a l i t tle C olber t


, parsl ey ; serve d wi th t he sauce and toma toes .

sauce an d garn ishe d wi th th e bo t toms


, . SP R IN G C H I C KEN I N B ATTE R W I T H
F R IE D S P RI N G C H I CKEN WI T H H O M IN Y F R I ED O N I ON S — Spring c hicken s singed ,

F R I T T E R S — T h e ch icken s prep are d a n d f ried spl i t bac k bone a n d b reas t b on e re move d thigh
, ,

as i n the prece d ing ; fi ne h omin y boile d d own bone snappe d blanche d i n wh i te s tock a f e w
,

t o mush cool e d cu t i n shapes then b readed


, , , m in u tes ta k en u p a n d d rained seasoned wi th
, ,

and f ri e d th e ch icken serve d wi th c ream sauce


, sal t pepper n u tmeg a n d po wd ered thy me
, , ,

a n d a s trip of b roi l ed bacon g a rnished wi th , then d ippe d i n bat te r a n d slowly f ri ed in ho t


th e fri t te rs .

f a t ; r ings of on i on s s teamed for a f e w min u tes ,

F R IED C H I C KEN WIT H R IC E AN D OKR A S then d ippe d i n m ilk then fl our frie d cri sp i n
—C old j oi n ts o f cook e d ch icken dippe d i n thic k
, ,

ho t f a t ; served as a garn ish t o the Chicken .

col d toma to sauce then i n b rea d crumbs then , ,


S T U FFED B R E AS T OF C H I C KEN WIT H
breaded and arranged i n a bu t te red bakin g pan ,
C U C UM B E RS — B reas ts o f S prin g chicken s
roaste d and baste d wi th bu tter t il l bro wn a n d tha t have been s teame d wh ole n o t qui te d one ,

fro t h y ; rice boi led d ry then m i xed wi th boile d


'

, t ri m med sprea d wi th ch icken forcemea t then


, ,

fresh or canne d okras and a l i t tle tomato sauce


, d ippe d i n bea ten eggs then sprin k l ed wi th ,

the chicken serve d wi th a l i t tl e tomato sauce , grated lean cooked ham m inced t ru ffl e peelings ,

a n d g arn i she d wi th smal l moun d s of the rice and bread c rumbs arran ge d i n a baking pan , ,

a n d Ok ras turned ou t of a ti mbale m ol d .


moistened wi th a l i t t l e mel ted bu t te r s l owly ,

D E V I L LE D S P R I N G C H I C K E N W I T H
,
heate d and brown ed ; ser v ed g arn ish e d wi th a
G REEN P E A S — Sp rin g ch ic k en s singe d spl i t , purée of cucu mbers .
T H E C ULI NAR Y H A N D B OO K .
53

C H I CKEN S AU S AGES S AU C E H OLL AN sh red and b l anched both mi xed and si m mere d
, ,

D AI S E —R a w ch icken mea t wi thou t s k in three i n a rich V é l o u t é sauce ; se rved on toas t .

fif t h s,
cooked chicken mea t on e fif th cooked M I N CED C H I C KEN WI T H P OA C H ED E G G -
,

tongue and mush rooms m ixe d on e fif th al l —Cold coo k ed c hicken wi thou t s k in cu t in to -


,

minced toge the r season ed wi th sal t pepper , very smal l squares m ixe d i n to and h eated wi th , ,
,

n u tmeg a n d po wd ered thy me form e d in to sau B échamel sauce ; served on toas t wi th a t ri m


,

sage shapes l igh tly b reade d ar range d i n b a k


, m ed poached egg o n top the yolk sprin k le d
,
,

ing pan wi th bacon tri m mi ngs an d bu t ter wi th parsley d us t , .

sl owl y roas ted and basted t i l l d o n e ; served C H I C KE N H AS H W I T H S T U FFED PEP


wi th Hollan d aise sauce PE R S — S mall g reen peppers spli t cl ean e d a n d
.

S OU FFLE S O F C H I C KE N — B reast s of raw


,

blanched fi l le d wi th chicken forcemea t ar , ,

chic k en poun d ed to a pas te th en rubbed rang ed i n a s a fito i r m oistened wi th a l i t tl e


,
,

th rough a fi n e sieve and mixed wi th separa tely con som mé l i d pu t on and si m mere d t il l d on e ; ,

beaten wh i tes a n d yol k s of eggs seasoned wi th the minced ch ic k en on toas t of the p rece d ing
,

bu t ter c ream sal t r e d pepper n u t meg an d


, , ,recipe served garn ishe d wi th the s tu ff e d
,

lemon j uice fi lled i n to fancy pape r cases the


, peppers , .

top sp ri n k l e d wi th si f ted bread c ru mbs and C H I C KEN F R I TT E R S PIQ U AN T E S A U C E



,

mel te d bu t ter sl owl y baked the se rved i m me


, C o l d roas t tende r ch icken i n j oin ts lai d f o r
,
,

d i a te l y .
an h our in vinega r wi th ch oppe d chives taken ,

C H I C KEN Q U EN E LLE S WIT H T R U FFLES u p b read ed an d frie d ; served wi th Pi q uan te


S AU C E S UPRE ME —C hicken quenelle force
,
,

sauce .

mea t shaped li k e eg g s be tween two spoon s C H I C K E N PAN AD A WI T H E GG S ON ,

poached in seasone d wh i te s toc k taken up and T OA S T — C o l d cooked chic k en wi thou t s k i n


,

d rained then d ipped i n S upr eme sauce ; served


, mi nced and pounded t o a pas te then r ubbe d ,

wi th i t arrange d on serving d ish in fours t wo


, through a fi n e si eve seasone d wi th sal t pepper ,
, ,

o f them spri n k led wi th m i nce d t r u fli e peel ings and n u t meg mi xed wi th an equa l q uan ti ty o f .
,

C AN NEL ON O F C H I C KEN T A R T A R S AU C E f resh bread crumbs moistened wi th c ream


,
, ,

-
C an nel on case made of pu ff p aste ( see C a n m ade ho t ; served heaped high on toas t wi th a
n e l o n s ) fil le d wi th ch icken f orcem ea t s l owly t rim med poache d e g g on top , .

heated th rough ; served wi th tar tar sauce ga r P OTT E D C H I C K E N F OR S AN DWI C H E S ,

n i s h e d wi th water c ress
T wo par t s of cold cooke d ch ic k en mea t wi thou t
.

C H I C KEN F O R CEM E AT FRI E D T OM AT O sk in on e p ar t cooked h am on e pa r t bu t ter the


S AU CE —Chicken f orcemeat rolle d wi th poin ted
,
, , ,

m ea t mi nced and poun d e d to a pas te wi th the


en d s si z e of a fi nger resemblin g a cigar i n bu t te r then rubbed th rough a fi ne sieve sea
,
, ,

shape b readed f ried ; served wi th tom a to


, ,
s o n e d wi th mace sal t red peppe r and n u tmeg , , ,

sauce .

packed in to smal l j ars sealed wi th mel ted bu t ,

S AU T E OF C H I C KE N W I TH R I CE AN D ter and s tore d away i n ice box for use , .

L E E KS Y oung chicken s singed d rawn T I M B A LE S O F C H ICKEN WI T H FO R


CE , ,

washe d j oin te d season ed wi th sal t a n d pepp e r


, ,
M E AT B A LLS —T i mbal e m ol d s l ine d w i th a ,

then l igh tly s a u té e d wi th m inced on ion s a n d


quenelle f orcemea t then fi lle d w i th scallops o f ,

ham in bu t te r taken up i n to a s a fit o i r sauce


,
b raised chicken and s l ices o f m ush rooms and ,

m ade in the pan they were fried i n s train ed t ru ffle s th e bo t tom then covere d wi th f orce ,
,
ove r the ch ickens si mme red til l tend er rice ,
mea t molds arrange d i n a ba k ing pan con tai n ,
-
,

boiled d ry ; then m i xed wi th some of the sauce ; in g a l i t tle wa ter bak ed till se t ; se rve d turne d ,
serve d as a border t o th e chic k en wh ich i s ou t wi th sauce B r e s s o i s e poure d aro u nd a n d
,
,

f ur t h e r garn ished wi th fri ed S h redded l eeks


garnish ed wi th smal l balls of poached force
.

C H I C KEN S AU T E WIT H PO T AT O B AL L S mea t .

— Spring chicken s singed d rawn wash e d C H I CKEN S A U T E W I T H OYSTE R S —L arge


, , .

s teamed for five m in u tes then ta k en u p a n d oys te rs blan ched a n d draine d ; young ch ickens
,

separa ted in to four n ea t j oi n ts seasone d wi th singe d drawn b l anched j oin ted seasone d wi th
,
, , , ,

sal t and peppe r fried wi th bu t ter to a g olden


, sal t and peppe r rolled i n flo u r fried in bu t ter , , ,

color ; balls scooped ou t of raw pota toes s teamed taken up i n to a s a fito i r gravy ma d e i n th e pan ,

n earl y don e then fried i n bu t ter l ike the ch ick


, the y were fried in using s toc k and the s t raine d ,

en s bo th of wh ich are then sprinkled wi th fi ne


, oys te r liquor boile d u p a n d s k i m me d then , ,

parsley ; served the j oin t s d ipped i n ho t C ol


, s train e d over th e chic k en wh ich i s n o w sim ,

ber t sauce surroun ded wi th the potatoes mere d til l tender ; t h e oys ters sprinkled wi th .

C R O U ST AD E S O F C H I CKEN —Fancy c ro fis
'

parsley an d sau t eed i n bu t ter for each order ;


t a d es m ad e of pas te fille d wi th a salpi c on of served the chic k en i n j oin ts garn i shed wi th t he ,

ch icken ; garn i sh e d wi th wa terc ress oys ter s sau tées .


.

C H I C KEN H AS H W I T H PEPPE R S ON C API L O T AD E O F C H I CKEN C old roas t


T OAS T C old cooked ch icken wi thou t sk i n chi cken s cu t in to n ea tl y t ri m me d j oin ts ar ,

cu t in to very smal l s q uares gree n peppe r s ranged i n a s a fito i r covere d wi th a b ro wn


, ,
54 T H E CU LI N AR Y H AN D B O OK .

I ta l ian sauce si m mered in i t f o r fi f tee n min u tes


, ,
S T E WE D C H ICK E N L I VE R S WI T H M U SH
.

then serve d garn ished wi th fancy c r o fito n s . R O O M S —T h e p receding s te w p l aced i n th e


C O LLOP S O F C H I C KE N WI T H M A C A R cen te r of di sh wi thou t toas t a n d se rved s ur ,

O N I C old cook ed chicken wi thou t ski n cu t roun d e d wi th b u t ton m ush roo ms tha t have been
i n to thin sl ices abou t the si ze o f a q uar te r of a sau t ee d i n bu t ter and spri nk l ed wi th choppe d
doll ar m ade ho t i n a rich B échamel sauce ; che rvil
C H I C K E N LI VE R S I N C A S E S —T h e l iv ers
.
,

macaron i b roken i n to inch l eng th s boiled i n ,

boil in g sal ted wa ter tak en u p a n d draine d , ,


sau tée s above cu t i n d ice fi l led in to fancy ,

then mixed wi th Parmesan cheese and a l i t tl e pape r cases tha t h ave b een l ine d wi th ch ic k en
,

B échame l sauce ; served th e macaron i as a ,


f orce mea t and heate d ; mush room s a n d t ru ffles
border sprinkled wi th pars l ey d us t th e chicken ,
i n d ice to b e added t o the l ivers .

piled h igh i n the ce n ter garn ished wi th s trips ,


C H ICK E N L I VE R F O R C E M E A T E qu al
of cooked red tongu e .
weigh t of blanched c hic k en l ivers an d lean
H AS H E D C H IC KE N AN D H AM WIT H R I C E cooked h a m wi th t wo oun ces of bu t ter to each
—Chicken cu t the same a s i n the preceding pound of mea t th e m ea t mi nced p oun d ed t o a
, ,

recipe thi n sl ices of l ean cooked h a m cu t ou t


,
pas te rubbed th rough a fi n e sieve then th or
, ,

wi th a co l u mn c u tter bo th m i x e d and made ,


ough ly i ncorpora te d wi th the bu t te r toge ther ,

ho t i n Vé l o u té sauce R ice wash ed an d then .


wi th a l i t tl e pu rée of mush rooms and t ru ffles ,

b oiled in ch icken bro th till moi s tu re i s all gon e seasoned wi th sa l t pepper n u tme g and chop , ,

and the grain s so f t th en m ix ed wi t h a l iai son


, p e d pars l ey then s tored for use
, .

of egg yolks and V é l o u té sauce season ed wi th B R O C H E T T E O R C R O U S T AD E S O F C H I C K



,

r e d pepper an d n u t m eg ; se rved the rice as a ,
E N LI V E RS For recipes of wh ich see B R O
“ "
border the h am and chicken i n sauce piled CH E T T E an d C R O U STAD E .

O M E L E T OF C HI C KEN L I VE R S —T he l i vers
,

high in the c en ter


G I B L E T AN D P OT AT O P I E —G i z zards hear ts
.

, ,
blanched then cu t i n sl ices wi th m ush roo ms ,

l ive rs n ecks and second j oin ts of the wings of


,
sa u t eed i n bu t te r moistened w i th wine a n d
,

ch icken s s te wed tende r wi th p ieces of sal t pork ,


b ro w n sauce seasoned wi th sal t pepper and
, ,

then pu t i n a baking pan wi th s l ices of har d l emon j uice sprinkled wi th c hopped pars l ey
, ,

boi l ed eg g s chopped parsl ey an d a gl ass o f


,
enc l osed wi thin a savory o mel e t ; served wi th
sher r y win e ( having plen ty of sauce ) th e p i e
,
m ore of the l ivers i n sauce pou red around .

then c o vered th ree qua r ters of an i nch th ick -


R O A ST C H I C KEN L IV E R S O N T O AS T
wi th mas hed po ta toes e d ges c ri mped wash ed , , B lanche d chic k e n l ivers masked al l over wi th
over wi th bea ten egg and baked .

chicke n l iver force mea t then wrapped i n "

G IB L E T P I E —Pie pan s l ined on t he side s wi th bu t tered paper a rranged i n a baking pan and
,

thi n shor t paste filled wi th th e s te we d gibl e t s


,
baked for fi f teen m inu tes taken u p pape r r e , ,

of the precedi ng recipe c ove red wi th sho r t ,


moved ; serve d o n toas t wi t h M a d é i r a sauce
paste egg wash ed and bake d pou red around
G I B LET P OT PIE —T h e p receding s tewed gib
. .
,

R AG O U T OF C H I C K E N G I B L E TS WITH
l e ts ei ther kep t h o t i n t he s a ii to i r an d d ump P O T A T O C R O Q UE T T E S — Liv ers hear ts , ,

l ings d ropped over i t l id pu t on an d si m m ered ,


gi z z ards pieces o f sal t pork a n d bu t ton m ush
,

ti l l d umpl ings are d one ; o r th e ste w tu rn ed i n to rooms sau t eed then m ixe d wi th M a d ei ra sauce
, ,

a baking pan the d u mpl i ngs d ropped c l ose


,
pl aced i n cen te r of dish garn ish ed wi th smal l
toge ther all ove r i t then pu t i n ove n t il l d um p
,
po ta to c roque t tes .

l ings are d on e . G I B LET S A UC E — G i z zards hear ts and n ecks ,

ST E WE D C H I C K E N G I B L E T S WIT H R I CE boiled till tende r wi th an on ion l ivers bl anche d , ,

-
Hear t s gi z zard s l i vers n eck s and second
, , ,
then sau t eed wi th bu t ter taken up sauce mad e , ,

j oin ts of the wings of c h ick en s al so s mal l ,


i n th e pan they we re sau t ee d i n wi th the s tock
pieces of r a w sal t po rk and m i n ced on i on s all ,
from the gib l e ts ; l ivers hear ts and mea t from ,

fried l igh tly wi th bu t te r th en sprin k l e d wi th ,


the gi z zard s then o u t fi ne and m ixed in to th e
fl our sh ook t oge the r moi s tene d wi th s tock
, ,
,
sauce seasoned wi th sa l t pepper a n d n u tmeg
, , ,

si mmere d t il l tender season ed wi th sal t peppe r , ,


fi nishe d wi th sh erry win e a n d chopped parsl ey .

and a bunch of s wee t herbs ( wh ich a re t o be C H I C KEN G IB LE T S O U P — G i z z ards hear ts , ,

removed when don e ) ; served i n the cen ter o f a n ecks and wings boiled till ten der wi th some
bor d er of d ry boil ed rice o r bar l ey o r oa t meal , , .
roas t fow l bon es in ch icken s tock hear ts and ,

S AU T E O F C H I C K E N LI V E R S ON T O AS T gi z zard s then taken up and cu t in to dice to


—The l i ve rs wi th ga l l removed wash ed and ,
ge ther wi th some sau t eed l i vers rou x made and ,

wiped then sau t eed wi th m i nced on ion s i n


, m ois tene d wi th the s tock boiled u p and ski m ,

b u t ter taken u p i n to a s a fito i r season ed wi th


, ,
med ; washed rice fi n e l y cu t carro ts tu rn ips
, , ,

sal t pepper an d l emon j uice m ois ten ed wi th


, ,
and on ion s then boil ed in th e soup t il l tender ,

M ad ei ra wi n e and E spagnol e sauce si m mere d ,


then i s added th e cu t mea ts ; fi n ished by sea
for a few m inu tes ; served on toas t garn i shed son in g wi th Worces tersh i re sauce sherry win e , ,

wi th c r o fito n s . sa l t pepper a n d n u tmeg


, .
56 T H E C U LI N AR Y H AN D B OO K .

of cus tard made by taking t we l ve yolks of eggs m ixe d sh redde d le t t u ce and endive season e d ,

a n d a pin t o f cold ch ic k en bro th season ed wi th wi th F rench dressin g .

sal t a n d red pepper thoroughl y m ixe d W i th ou t , C HI C KE N S AL AD —T wo par ts of m ayonnaise


bea t ing then poure d i n to bu t tered pans
, , and on e par t of l impid aspic j elly b ea ten to
s teamed till se t cu t in to shapes when col d ,
. ge ther i ndiv idual pat ty pan s or t imbal e molds
,

C H I C KE N B R OTH W I T H A S P A R A G U S decorated and l ine d wi th th e beaten mix ture ,

TI PS —Same as the p receding using t h e s h a p e s ,


then fi lled wi th scallops of ch ic k en d resse d wi th
of custar d s b u t subst i tu ting asparagus tips f o r R emoulad e sauce a f e w capers a n d slices of ,

the macedoine of vege tabl es .


s ton ed ol ives covered wi th some of the beaten
,

C H I C KE N B R OTH WI T H S P R IN G V E G E m ix ture se t till fi rm th en turn ed ou t on to a


, ,

T AB LE S — S trong poul try s toc k th icken e d very


b e d o f sh redd ed l e t tuce garn ished wi th shre d
d e d anchovies a n d gh erk in s
l igh tl y wi th corn s tarch seasone d boiled u p .

C H I C KE N M AY O NN AISE — C old roas t ch icken s


, ,

and ski m med then fu r th e r thic k ene d wi th


,

y oung ten d er carro ts tu rn i ps green on i on s , ,


.
cu t i n to j oin ts s teepe d f o r an hour i n a mix ture
,

leeks and green cabbage all cu t i n to small d ice ' of sal t peppe r olive oil a n d tarragon v in egar
, , ,

1 then taken u p a n d m asked wi th mayon nai se


boile d i n the s toc k wi th a h and f ul of rice til
d on e then i s added squares of ch ic k en mea t sauce served on sh re d l e t tuce garn ished wi th
, ,
,

seasoned a n d se rved .
q uar tered h ard boile d eggs pic k le d beets and ,

C H I C KE N B R O T H WI T H A R T I C H OKE S s toned ol ives or p i m e n t o e s .

S trong poul try s tock thick ened l igh tl y wi th corn C H I C KE N M AY ON NAI SE — Bon ed roasted
s t arch seasone d boile d up and s k i mme d then
, , ,
chicken pressed sl iced coa te d wi t h m a yon
, , ,

further thic k ened wi th a l i ai son o f egg yol k s n aise served ga rn i she d wi th green peas a n d
,

an d c ream s t rain e d i n to a tu reen wi th chicken asparagus poin ts tha t are d resse d w i th French
,

d ressi ng and cubes o f savory j ell y


m ea t a n d d iced ar tich okes , .

C H I FF ON AD E — French te rm f o r a m i x tu re of
.

C H I CKE N B R O T H WI T H P O A C HED E G G

S ame as C hic k en B ro th wi th C us tar d s bu t
" sh red d ed sorrel l e t tuce ch ervi l a n d parsley , ,

substi tu ting a sof t poache d egg f o r each plate .


tha t i s use d to pu t i n soups a f e w minu tes b e
f ore serving th em
C H I CKEN B R O T H WI T H S O R R E L — S trong
.

C H IP OL A T A — N am e of an I tal i an garni sh com


poul try st ock th ic k en e d wi th a l iaison o f egg
posed o f l i ttl e veal Sau sage s glazed ball s of ,
yol k s a n d c ream season ed s traine d i n to a , ,
c arrot and tu rn ip roasted a n d peeled chestnu ts ,
tu reen con tainin g boiled vermicell i and s te we d ,

pieces of b roi le d bacon a n d bu t ton mu sh rooms ,


so rrel .

all mi xed in to a rich bro wn sauce fl avore d wi th


C H I C KE N S O UP WIT H N O OD LE S — S t ron g sh erry win e .

poul t ry s toc k thickened wi th fl our an d bu t te r ,


C H IVE S —A fl avorin g h e rb of th e on ion speci es ,

seasoned wi th sal t r e d pepper an d nu t meg , ,


gro ws l i k e the tops o f spring on ion s d eep green ,

s t rain ing i t a f terwards i n to a tureen con taining i n color a n d ve ry s trong i n flavor ; such d ishes
boile d n oodles choppe d che rvil an d pieces of
,

as C ive t of R abbi t R agou t o f H are e tc "
, .
,
ch ick en mea t .
are s trongly i mpregn a ted wi th chives

.

C H I C KE N B R O T H WI T H ON I ON S Th ick C H O C O L A T E — A wholesome n u tri tive flesh ,

ened poul try s toc k seasone d then s traine d in to ,


for min g ar ticl e of foo d grea tl y u se d i n c o n f e c ,

a tureen con tain ing ve ry smal l boile d on ion s t i o n e r y ic in gs cakes


, e t c ; when serve d a s a
, , .

a n d green peas .
d ri nk i t i s made i n to a paste wi th m il k then
C H I C KE N S O UP W IT H PEA S P U R E E
,

boil ing m il k a d ded to the con si s tency o f thin


F resh green peas boile d wi th a b unch o f green cream all owed t o si mmer f o r a f e w minu tes
,

m in t i n chi c k en s toc k th ic k ened l igh tl y w i th , be f ore se rving .

roux m in t then remove d and the soup rubbe d


, , C H O C O L AT E B L AN C M ANG E — M i l k and -

through a fi ne sieve boile d u p again and sk i m , sugar broug h t to th e boi l i n two separate sauce
m e d seasone d then s tra in e d i n to a tureen con
, , pans th en corn s tarch m ixe d wi th m il k bea ten
,

tain i ng chopped ch e rv il a n d shred l e t tuce .


i n to bo th on e t o be flavored wi th vanilla the
, ,

C H I CKEN S ALAD —T en d er j uicy col d cooked , o the r to h ave m el te d chocolate a n d a l i ttl e


chicken cu t in to smal l dice wi th an equal quan , bu t te r beaten i n to i t m ol d s d ippe d in to col d ,

ti ty of hear t s of ce l ery m ixe d season e d wi th , , wa te r th e choc ola te m i x ture poure d i n hal f


,

sal t r e d pepper mayon naise and a d ash of


, , way up then the vanill a used to fi ll wi th se t
, ,

t arragon vin egar ; a col d se rving d i sh rubbe d to cool turn e d ou t served wi th swee tened and
, ,

wi th garl ic c overed wi t h cri sp tende r le t tuce


, , , van ill a fl avored c ream .

l eaves sala d pl aced i n the cen ter m as k ed wi th


,
C H O C O L A T E C R E A M FR I T T E RS —The choc
mayonnaise smooth ed d ecora ted wi th cape rs
, , , ola te par t of the prece d ing recipe m a d e a l i t tl e
bee troo t and h ard boile d egg . s ti ffe r than for blanc mange turn e d i n to sh al -
,

C H I C KEN S AL AD — R oun d croque t tes made of l ow pan s allowed to se t till fi rm an d cold then
, ,

ch ic k en ham tongue mush roo ms and tru ffles


, , , , cu t i n to S h apes doubl e b rea d ed a n d f ried , ,

b read ed a n d fri e d all owed t o beco me col d , , served d us ted wi th po wdere d sugar a n d wi th
then sp l i t i n hal ves and s e t around a bed of aprico t m ar mal ad e o r sauce poured a round .
T HE C U LI NA RY HAN D B O O K .
57

C H OC O LA T E C AK E —On e poun d each o f bu t j us t fal l 0 3 from a spoon ; fro m i t i s prepared


“ " ”
te r powdere d sugar a n d grate d chocol a te
, , Bell F ri t te rs Q ueen Fri t te rs C ream , ,

sugar a n d bu t te r creame d toge ther chocolate , Pu ff s and Eclai rs S pan ish P u fl s Pra ‘ "

“” “ ”
d issolved i n a pi n t of m ilk then wo rke d in to , l in es C r o qu e n b o u c h e e s
,
Chou x C rou tons ,

the c ream wi th eigh t yol ks o f eggs three quar t -


e tc e tc
C H O W C HOW —
. .
, ,

ers of a poun d o f flour and t wo teaspoon f uls o f One gal l on each o f cu t s trin g
bakin g pow d er and the wh ippe d wh i tes of eigh t less beans very smal l wh i te on ions green
, ,

eggs th en l igh tly stirred i n poured i n to bu t , gherk in s a n d flo we r e t s of cauliflowe r two ,

t e r e d a n d pape re d pans slowly baked till don e , , poun d s o f d ry musta r d two gal l ons of whi te ,

abou t on e hour win e v inegar t wo ounces each of turmeric and


C H O C O L AT E C R EAM —Three pin ts of double
.
,

mus tard seed t wo poun d s o f sugar a n d on e pi n t


,

c ream whippe d s ti ff to which i s then a d de d , of O l ive O il T h e caul iflowe r bean s a n d on ions


.
,

sugar to taste on e ounce o f gela tine j uice of a


, , boile d separa tely till ten d er th e gher k in s ,

l emon and hal f a pound o f mel ted chocolate


, , soa k ed i n s trong sal te d wa te r for on e day then ,

poure d in to molds and se t on ice ; the tops o f ,


m ixed toge ther a n d filled in to c rocks ; the v ine
mo l d s may be decorated before pouring i n the gar brough t to the boil mustard a n d tur meric ,

c ream m ixed and moistened wi th a l i t tle vinegar then


C H O C OL AT E I CE C R EAM — Pure cream
.
,

s ti rre d i n to the boil ing v inegar ; when i t begin s


sugared to tas te hal f a pound o f chocol ate to
, to th icken the m us tard see d sugar and oil are
, ,

the gallon the chocol ate d issolve d and mixed


, s ti rred i n poure d boil ing ho t ove r th e v e ge
,
~

i n to some LU KEWA R M cream then s t rained , tables in th e croc k s the n pu t away for use , .

in to the swee tened c ream flavored sligh t l y wi th , C H U T N EY — A tabl e con d i men t i mpor ted f rom
van illa strained in to a free zer and fro zen
,
.
the Eas t I nd ies and purchasabl e a t the groce ry
C H O CO L A T E C UP C U ST ARD S —T wo quar ts
,

s tores i n bo t tl es m ay be made as follows : On e ,

o f milk fou r ounces o f chocol ate a n d on e p oun d


, and a hal f pin ts o f vinegar two ounces of who l e ,

of sugar m ixed a n d b rough t to the boi l si x , ginger bruised on e ounce each of chi l ies and ,

yolks of eggs an d t wo ounces of corn s tarch mus tard see d t wo ounces of sal t an d twelve ,

worke d toge ther wi th a l i t tl e m ilk the boil ing , ounces of s u gar al l boiled toge ther for th ree
m ix tu re s ti rred i n to i t pu t back on th e range , quar ters of an hou r then s train ed th rough a ,

and s tirred til l i t j us t thicken s then flavore d , hai r sieve Pu t th e s trained vinegar to boi l
.

wi th van ill a poure d th rough a con ical s traine r


, agai n wi th on e large on ion sh redde d one ,

in to cups ; when all fi lled th e cups ar ranged , crushe d clove of garl ic si x sha ll ots two ounces , ,

i n to a baking pan con tain ing a l i t tle wa ter of see d less raisin s a n d t wo pounds of peel ed
ba k e d sl ow l y til l d one served co l d wi th c ream , and sl iced app l es boil un til they are qui te soft , ,

poure d a round then pu t in to s ton e j ars tie over wi th skin o r


C H O CO L A T E I C I N G — On e pound of sifted
.

parch men t pape r and keep for u se


C IDE R —Apple j uice ob tained by pressu re then
.

sugar ( po wd ere d ) and si x whi tes of eggs th or ,

oughl y bea ten t i l l s ti ff then flavore d wi th van , fe rmen te d an d ma tured .

ill a and four ounces o f mel ted ch ocol a te .


C I N NA M O N — A spice wh ich may be pu rchased
C H OC O L ATE P UD D I N G Same m i x ture as -
ground or in s tick f orm u se d as a fl avoring for ,
“ "
g iven f o r C hocol a te C u p C us tards b aked i n cakes pudd ings l i q u eu rs cor d ial s syrups
, , , , ,

a p an served col d wi t h whi ppe d c ream or


, ,
sauces e tc , .

swee tened and flavored plai n cream . C I S C O— One of the small fi sh o f the l akes r e ,

C H O C OL A T E P UD D I N G —O n e po u nd each of se mbl ing i n si ze and appearance the f resh water


bu t te r an d sugar c reamed togethe r ten e gge s herring .

F I LL E T S O F C I S C O I N B AT T E R —T h e fi sh
,

worked in to the c ream on e a t a ti me fou r teen ,

ounces of si f te d flour and t wo ounces of g ra ted scale d and fil l e t e d free f rom bon e seasone d ,

ch o c ol ate th en l igh t l y s ti rre d in flavo red wi th ,


wi th sal t a n d pepper d ippe d in to a thi n ba t ter , ,

vani lla pou red i n to bu t tere d mo l ds s teamed


, ,
f ried ; served wi th or wi thou t tomato s a u c e and
ti ll done serve d ho t wi th sauce
,
.
garn ish ed wi th pa rsley and l emon .

H OCO L A T E F L OA T — S mall cold “


C hocol a te B R O I L E D C I S C O L E M O N PAR SL E Y
S AU C E — T h e fi sh scal e d d rawn washed
,

C u p C us tard s turned ou t i n to d eep sauce d ish ,


, , ,

sur roun d ed wi th a p i pin g of wh i ppe d cream wiped a n d th e si d es scored seasone d wi th sal t ,

th e c ream then decora ted wi th co l ored win a n d pepper rolled i n ol ive oil then i n flour
, , ,
,

j elly chopped fi ne . broil ed and ba s te d till d one ; served wi th m ai tre


CH O U X — PAS T E — I s the name of a ba tte r m ade '
d h Ote l bu t ter poure d over a n d garni shed wi th ,

o f a pin t of wa ter eigh t ounces o f l ard or bu t l emon and ch ip po ta toes



.
,

te r n in e ounces of flou r and t e n eggs Wa te r


, . C I S C O S AUT E J UL I EN N E P OT AT OE S ,

an d lard i s b rough t to th e boil fl ou r then , Prepared as i n the prece d ing recipe rolled i n ,

a d ded al l a t once and worked over th e fi re t i l l flour s l owl y frie d a d elicate b ro wn wi th bu t te r


, ,

i t i s cooked in to a s moo t h pas te al lo wed th en , served wi th som e of the bu t ter ove r i t gar ,

to s l igh tl y cool the eggs the n beate n i n on e a t


, n is h e d wi th J ul ienn e potatoes l emon an d ,

a t i me ; i ts con sis tency must be so th a t i t wi l l


. parsle y .
58 T H E C U LI N AR Y H AN DB OO K .

C I T R IC AC I D —A c rysta l ob tained from acid B R O I LED C LA M S —T h e sof t c l am i s best fo r


fru i ts ; u sed by con f ec tioners and catere rs pop , thi s d ish bu t the ordi n ary l arge clam i s ser
,

and sod a wa ter manu f ac tu rers S tree t ven d ors . v ic e ab l e ; they should b e d rain ed season ed ,

a t the fai rs si mply d issol ve i t i n water swee ten , wi t h sal t a n d peppe r d ipped in m el ted bu t te r ,

i t fil l i t i n to gl asses pl ace a thi n slice o f l emon


, , ,
th en rolle d in fresh sifte d bread c ru mbs broile d ; ,

i n and sell i t f o r l emonade ; al so fl avor i t wi th a se rved on t oas t garn ished wi th lemon a n d ,

l i t tle oil o f raspberry s t rawberry e tc a d d in g , ,


.
,
watercress .

a d rop or t wo of carm in e and sell i t as rasp ,


F R I ED C L AM S — D rain ed season ed d ipped in , ,

b e r r ya d e s t r a wb e r r ya d e e tc
, , .
mel te d bu t te r rolled i n si f te d b read cru mbs
, ,

C ITR O N —A l arge f rui t of the l emon speci e s ,


then i n bea ten eggs an d agai n i n c ru mbs ; f rie d
th e peel i s bl anched then boile d i n syrup a n d ,
i n clear bu t te r o r in h o t f a t ; served garn i shed
subseq uen tly dr i ed ; used in ca k es pu d d in gs wi th lemon and wa terc ress
S T E AM E D C L AM S — Large clams scrubbed
.
, ,

ices j ell ies cordial s l iqueurs e tc


, , , , . ,

C I T R ON C AKE — On e pound each of bu t te r and ar ran ge d on th e wi re f alse bo t tom of a fi sh


sugar c reamed toge the r ten eggs th en worked ,
ke t tl e wi th a li t tl e water unde r them l id then ,

i n on e a t a ti me th en a win e glass of b ran d y


, ,
pu t on placed over a qu ick fi re ; wh en the
,

on e pound of si f te d flou r and h a l f a poun d o f u pper shell i s loosene d i t i s remove d the cl am , ,


,

sh redded ci tron .
separa ted from th e l ower l i t tl e mel te d bu t te r ,

C LA M S — A favori te American shel l fi sh th e ,


pu t in e ach se rved very ho t wi th l emon and
,

“ " crackers
Li t tl e Neck c l am bein g the favore d k i nd f o r
.

C L AM F R I TTE R S — S o f t clams season ed then


ea ting from the sh ell the la rge hard clams fo r ,
,

dipped i n ba t ter an d fri e d ; o r l arge c l ams


soups an d chow d ers a n d the sof t clam for ,
ch oppe d then m i xed i n ba t te r and fri e d by
b roilin g and fryin g .
,

spoon f uls i n ho t fat ; served wi th a c rea m sauce


C L AM C H OWD E R — Sa l t pork cu t i n to dice a n d
ma d e w i th cl am l iquor
fried till l igh t b rown Fi sh bro th a n d cl am
.

S CA LL OPED C L AM S — Cl am s scal d e d and cu t


.

l iquor i n equal par ts brough t to the boil s k i m ,


in to n ea t pieces sauce m ade o f thei r l iquor
m e d sl iced on ion s and po tatoes then pu t in a n d
,
, ,

th e cl am s m ixed in and ei ther fille d i n to l arge


boiled t il l barel y don e then i s ad d e d the f ried ,
,

cl am or scal lop shell s the tops spri n k l ed wi th


sal t pork an d scal d e d cl am s cu t i n d ice ; sea ,

si f ted c rumbs a n d m el te d bu t ter then brown ed


soned wi th pepper groun d mace a n d sal t ; ,
,
i n th e oven ; serve d i n the sh el l
b rough t to the boi l agai n a n d pou red to an
.

C L AM C R O Q UE T T E S — Scalde d cla m s cu t i n to
,

equal quan ti ty of t h in wh i t e sauce ; fi n i she d


smal l n ea t pi eces ( no t c hopped ) T h ick sauce
wi th a fe w rolled crac k ers an d chopped parsl ey
.

m ade of th e l iquo r th e cu t cl a ms pu t back


PH I LAD E LP H I A C L AM C H OWD E R — Li k e
,

i n to i t ; when th oroughly reheated pou red i n to ,

the preced in g bu t subs ti tu tin g tomatoes a n d a bu t tered shallo w pan s moo th e d wi th a k ni f e , ,


tom ato sauce fo r the whi te sauce and adding a c overed wi th a shee t of grease d pape r a n d
fl avo r of th yme .

all owed to beco me co l d and se t th en cu t i n


C LA M B R OT H — M ay be m ade to orde r a t res t
,

even si zed pi eces S haped b rea d ed fried ; , , ,


a u r a n t s b y si mpl y chopping some l arge cl am s
serv e d wi th a cl am sauce pou red aroun d .

and sca l d ing the m in cl am l i qu o r th e n s train ing ,


C L AM F O R CE M E AT — Scalded clam s fi nel y
i n to the serving bowl or cup .

minced wi th an equa l quan ti ty of can ne d mush


C LAM ST E W—Plai n or wi th m ilk or c ream ; rooms a l i t tl e m ince d on ion f ried i n bu t te r
, ,

gen e rall y sold i n res tauran ts by th e h alf or flou r a d de d m oi s tene d w i th the cl am a n d


,

do zen ( i t i s cus tom ary to give seven and f ou r mush room liquo r boiled u p season ed wi th sal t , , ,

teen t o the hal f or d ozen ) ; scal d the clam s wi th pepper l i t tl e d r y mu s tar d a su spicion of gar l ic
, , ,

cl am l iquo r take o ff the scu m pou r in to a


, ,
a n d som e chopped parsley ; th en i s ad d ed the
bowl a d d a piece of bu t ter a n d se rve i f for
, ,
clam s and mush room s boil ed up slowl y for ten ,

plain ; i f fo r a m il k or c ream s tew scald the , m inu tes remove and wor k in a f e w bea ten egg
,

m il k o r cream sep ara tel y pour th e cla ms a n d ,


yolk s till o f a s ti ff con sis tency pu t away to cool ,

l iquor i n to the bowl fi rs t then add an equal , for use


FR I C A S S E E O F C LAM S —The clam s sca l ded
.

quan ti ty of th e m ilk season wi th bu t ter an d ,

serv e wi th cracke rs .
i n thei r own l iquor then s traine d equal amoun t , ,

R O A ST C L AM S —M ay be ei ther served i n th e of m ilk a n d l i q uor boil ed separa tel y fl ou r and ,

she l l o r on toas t La rge clam s wash e d ar .


, bu t te r in a sa ucepan season ed wi th red pepper
ranged o n bak in g shee t pu t i n h o t oven til l , and a l i ttle n u tmeg moi sten ed wi th the liquor ,

they open I f se rve d i n the sh ell the top shell


. then fin i she d t o the d esi re d con sis ten cy wi th
i s removed the cl am separa te d f rom the l ower
, , the boiling m ilk ; when boiled up fi nishe d wi th ,

li t tl e m el ted b u t ter then pl ace d i n each and a fe w b eaten yol k s of eggs th e cla ms cu t e i ther ,

se rved I f to be served on toast th e toas t


.
, i n h a l ve s i f small or i n n ea t p ieces i f l arge, ,

sh oul d be cu t i n strips bu t tere d th e cl am s , , added to the sauce ; served e i the r on toas t or ,

place d nea t l y on i t m el te d bu t te r b rushed over


, wi th a border of fancy m ash ed po tatoes or i n ,

them ; se rved wi th le mon an d c rackers . scallop she ll s .


T H E C U L I N A R Y H AND B O OK .
59

C LAM S O UP—C R EAM O F C L AM S —Same as gues t T h e foreign ter m for th is me thod of


.

the preceding rec ipe bu t h aving the soup of cooking eggs i s ( OE UF S A L A C O CO T T E )



.
,

the consi stency of thi n c ream ; when serving a ,


C OC H IN E A L Name of an i nsec t ob taine d
spri nkl ing of chopped pa rsley o r cele ry l eaves chiefl y from the shore s of P H O N OE CI A; used
pu t in to each pl a te .
i n cooke ry as a red c oloring F or recipe see .

B E C A R E FU L N OT T O L E T T H E S OU P “ "
C arm in e .

O R F R I C A S S E E B OI L A F T E R T H E E G G S C OC H ON —A ter m used some ti mes on bi l l s of


AR E I N O R I T WI LL C U R D LE AN D Y O U , “
fare to designa te P I G such as pied d e cochon ,
"

C AN N O T B RING I T B A C K T O S M O OTH “
pigs fee t ; cochon de l ai t suckl in g p ig e tc "

C O C K IE —LE E K I E —N ame given by the Sco tch


.
,
N E S S W I T H OU T Y OU SPOI L T H E FL AVO R .

C LARE T — Na me of a S ou thern French wine s o


peop l e fo r a soup i n which a cock fow l and
called abroad o n accoun t of i ts col or which i s
l eek s for m the p rincipa l ingredien ts
C OC KI E —LE E K I E S O U P—Youn g fow l s ( cocks
.

dis tinc ti ve U sed gene rall y as a co mmon d i n


.

n er wine al though i ts bes t b rands c anno t be


,
o r hens ) washed t russed and l igh tly roas te d
too wel l eulogised I ts use i n cookery i s l argely
.
, ,

then p u t i n t o a whi te s tock o f vea l o r chic k en


fo r flavoring sauces soups b raising meats a n d , ,
w i th some wh i te p ar ts of sh redded l eeks sal t
fi sh and fo r ices a n d j ell ies .
, ,

,
an d a f e w whol e peppers ; when th e fo wl s are
G L OVE S — Name of a val uable spice ob tained
nearl y done they are taken up the mea t p icke d
from the bud s of the t ree U sed i n i t s whol e .
, ,

i n to sh reds and placed i n to ano the r s aucepan


for m fo r season ing man y s tews sauces soups , , ,
wi th an equa l quan ti ty of fresh sh redde d l ee k s
espec i ally tur tle soup where i t tak es the plac e ,
,

the s tock the fowl s were boiled i n bein g then


of the herb B AS I L I t i s a val ua b l e addi tion .

s trained over ; th is i s then b rough t t o the boi l


to appl e du mpli ngs pi es an d sauces ; i n i ts ,
,

s k i mmed then si m mered til l th e l eeks are


ground s tate i s o f ten adul tera ted wi th pi men tos ,

tender ( abou t h al f an hour ) s easoned wi th sal t ,


and o the r i nferior spices The word c love i s .

and pepper then se rved , .

al so used to designa te a cl ove or sec tion of —



C OC KS C O M B S Call ed b y the French C re tes “
garl ic .

d e coq are the c res ts o f th e mal e domestic


C OB B L E R —N ame used i n cook ery to designate
a k ind of pie u sed as a swee t en trée ; al so In fow l cu t o ff and bl anch e d ; u sed i n c ook ery as
th e bar tenders g ui d e to d esign a te cer ta i n
’ p arts of cer tai n garn i tures ; are of n o v al u e as
m i xed d ri nks .
a fl avor bu t are v al ua b le as pleasin g th e eye
,

C OC OA —N ame of a b e e n ob tained from the whi l e th e sauce tic k l es the pa l a te ; may be pu r


c ocoa tree fr om which is manu f ac tured the chased a t th e l arge groce rie s a l read y for use
,

cocoa of com merce ; u sed i n cook ery as a i n bo t tles generall y m ixed wi th the cocks ker
,

break f as t an d supper beverage ; al so the ex n e l s ( Span ish fries) .

p ressed oi l of the n u t i s use d as cocoa bu t ter ,


C OC KS K E RN E L S —The tes tic l e s of the ma l e
ch iefly b y con fec tion ers .
domes tic fow l si tuated i n th e m idd l e of the
,

C O C OAN UT — AS generally seen i n thi s coun try back of the b i rd ; whe n t o b e cooked they are ,

i s i n shel l form devoi d of i ts fi brou s husk The .


washed blanched skin ned an d ma d e i n to
, , ,

shel l when b ro k en shows th e enclosed n u t ; fricassées supr emes breaded an d fried com
, , ,

thi s i s used i n cookery ( after havin g i ts dark pon en t par t s of garn i tu res e tc O ften c alled , .

“ "
sk in re moved ) chiefly by con fec t ione rs i n mak b y gourme ts Span ish fries ; pu rchasabl e i n
,

in g cak e s puddings ices m acaroon s e tc ; can bo t tle s c o mbi ned g enera ll y wi th c ocks-combs .

C O C KL E S —N ame of an E ng l ish she l lfi sh s i mil ar


.
, , ,
,

b e purch ased for such work i n dessicated for m .

"
T he m il k of the cocoanu t as the l iqui d i s i n sh ape an d fl avo r to the l i t t l e n eck clam "

calle d i s a va l uable fl avoring for cu rri es mull i


,
, a r e i mpor ted i n t o th i s c oun tr y i n s ma l l fla t

ga ta w n e y soup al mond soup e tc, ,


. can s ( cooked ) T o be used they are taken from
.

C OC O T T E — N ame used i n cook ery to designate t he c an and th o roughl y washe d i n c o l d water


a way of cook ing eggs Th e c oco t te cups have . t o rid the m of a sandy sedi men t they can then ,

been recen t l y p l aced on th e m arke t ; they are be fr i z zl ed i n bu t te r an d served v ery h o t on


i n cup fo r m wi thou t handles and wi th scre w toas t g arn i shed wi th l em on an d pars l ey or ,

covers ; the cups when to b e u sed are sligh tl y m ixed i n to c ream Holl andaise S upr eme o r , ,

bu t tered the eggs b ro k e n i n ( k eeping the yo l ks


,
Normande sauces and served ei the r on toas t o r
who l e ) a spoon f u l of c ream poured carefu l l y i n c ro ii s t a d e s pape r cases wi th rice or border
, , ,

ove r the m the l id scre wed on the cups then


, ,
of sh r i mps o r th ey may b e cu rried an d served
,

pl aced in to boi l in g wa ter or i n to a s teamer ; wi t h a borde r of rice T hey are prac tically .

they require t wo m i nu tes l onger than i s t e n e w to the A me rican p u b l ic and unless well ,

qui red for boiled eggs ; they are sen t to the washed from thei r sedi men t wi ll n o t be much
tabl e i n the cup and the l id i s si mp l y l oosened called fo r

.
,

so as t o be removed by th e gues t a t hi s o r he r C OC KT A I LS N ame of a mi xed d r in k ; a l so a p


p l eas ure or by the wai ter a t the req ues t o f th e
, pl ied i n c ookery to o ys ters an d c l ams .
60 THE C ULI N AR Y H AND B O O K .

OYSTE R C O C KTAI L —Half a dozen freshl y B OIL E D COD S T E AK W I T H AN C H OVI E S


opened s mal l oys ters d ropped i n to a sherbe t —Sell s wel l i n res tau ran ts C od s teaks abou t .

g l ass seasoned wi th a d ash each of t abasco


, th ree q uar ters of a poun d i n weigh t l aid i n ,
-
. ,

Worces tershire t oma to and H arvey sauces sal ted wa ter for an hour the n boil ed i n sal ted
CL A M C O C K T A I L —Same as th e p receding
.
, ,

wa te r and m ilk t ake n u p and drain ed well ; , ,

using clam s for oys ters an d o mi t ting the H ar served garn ished wi th H oll andai se po ta toes ,

vey sauce on accoun t of i ts sali ne fl avor bu t te r sauce con t ai n in g p l en ty of sh re d d ed .

NEPTU N E C OCK T AI L —Th ree each freshl y sal t anchovies poured o v e r the s teak ( Fle m .

open ed s mal l oy s ters an d cl ams d ropped in to a ish and Aurora s auce s a l so g o we ll w i th a


sherbe t glass seasoned wi th a fe w sh reds of
,
boiled cod s teak ) .

fresh horseradish a dash each of toma to and F R IE D C O D S T E AK T O MAT O S A U C E


, ,

walnu t catsups and a d ash each of Wo rces te r


, The s teak s l ai d i n sal ted wa te r for an h our ,

shi re and tabasco sauces then tak en u p and wiped d ry ; d ipped i n m el ted
.

C OD F I S H —A s tap l e sal t water fi sh fi t for ho te l bu t ter th en fl our then i n bea te n eg g s fri ed a , , ,

use al l the year round ; caugh t on th e N e w go l de n c ol o r i n oil ; served garn i shed w i t h j ul i


E nglan d coas t and i n v as t n u mbers o ff th e enn e pota toes an d toma t o sauc e pou red ar o und .

shores of N e wfoundl and T he New f oun d l an d CO D S T E AK B R E AD C R U M B E D PAR S LE Y ,


.

fi sheri es m a k e a speci a l ty of sal ting d ry ing S AUC E Th e s teak s l aid i n sal ted wa ter for an,

and s mok ing i t besides m aking caviar of


,
hou r then t aken up and wiped d ry spri nkl ed "
, ,

i ts roe and ex t rac ting the oi l from i ts l iver wi th a l i t tl e l emon j uice d ipped i n bea ten . ,

B AKE D C OD FI S H C APE R S AU CE —O u a c ,
eggs an d fresh b re adcrumbs a rranged i n a ,

coun t o f i ts si z e the fi sh a f te r clean sin g i s bes t bu t tered pan b rushed over wi th mel ted bu t te r ,

o u t i n to por tio n pieces seasoned wi th s a t and l o r bacon


,
f at b aked an d tu rn ed so t ha t bo th ,

pepper ro l led i n flour then d ipped in to mel ted


,
side s,
are brown ; served wi th parsley sauce a t
baco n fa t o r ol ive oil arranged on a baking end of di sh and garn ished wi t h Pari si en n e
,
.

pan bak ed a n d browned on bo th si d es the


,
po tatoes ,

head boiled wi th an on ion and gra ted car rot ; F R IED C OD C U T L E T P I Q U ANT E S A U CE


,

bu t ter sauce mad e from the l iquor in to which S teak s cu t fro m the m i d dl e of th e fi sh
,
,

i s t he n added capers an d cape r vinegar ; fi sh season ed wi th sal t an d peppe r d ipped i n ,

served garn ished wi th l e mon and parsley wi th mel te d bu t te r rol led i n fl ou r f ried i n pan wi th ,
, ,

the sauce a t on e end of th e fi sh bacon fat served wi th Piquan te sauce a t on e


. ,

B AKED C ODF I S H S T U FF D W I T H OY E end Saratoga c hi ps l emon and p arsley a t the , ,

ST E R S — S mal l cod a b ou t si x poun d s each o the r


,
.

h ea d s and fi n s removed i n si d e fi lled wi th an B ROI L E D C OD S T E AK C O L B E R T S A U C E



,
,

oyste r s tu ffi ng se wn u p th e bac k an d sides T h e s tea k s season ed w i th sal t and pepper


,
,
,

scored i n to por tions arranged i n pan wi th a dipped i n mel ted bu t ter roll ed i n fl our slo wly
,
, ,

fe w sh redded vege tables m ois tened wi th a l i ttl e broi led t il l don e ; served wi th C o l b er t sauce
,

fi sh b roth brushe d ove r wi th bu t te r b aked and


, p oure d a round an d garn ished wi th l e mo n and ,

bas ted til l don e and gla zy ; se rved garn i shed pars l ey al so so me fancy fried pota toes , .

wi th a pota to c roque t te and oys te r sauce poured C U RR IE D C OD S T E A K W I T H R I SSOT O


around .
Good way t o use th e tail s teaks : cu t the m h alf
BAKED C OD F I S H B R E AD C R U M B E D ,
an inch th ick fry the m a golden b ro wn wi th a ,

S l ices of the fi sh free from bones l aid for a n l i t tl e minced on ion then p l ac e them i n a sauce
,
,

hour i n a m ix ture of ol ive oil v i negar sal t and pan flo u r and curry the n added t o th e bu t te r
, ,
,

peppe r then tak en u p and d rain ed d i pped i n


,
and on ion s they we re fried wi th s ti rred m oi st
,
, ,

bu t ter breadcrum b s bea ten eggs and agai n


,
ened wi th equa l par ts of fi sh b ro t h and c re am
,
,

breadcru mb s a rranged i n bak in g pan m ois t


,
boi l up sk i m a d d a l i t tl e anc hovy essence ,
, , ,

ened wi th a l i t tle wh i te win e and oys te r l iquor s train the sauce over the s teak s pu t on range ,
,

baked a gol d en b rown ; served garn ished wi th and si m mer for a f e w mi n u te s ; se rve wi th the
D uchesse po tatoes and l e mon wi th Ho l l andaise sauce over and garn ish wi th sma ll mold s of
,

r i s s o to
sauce poured around .
.

B O I LED C OD F I S H E G G S AU C E— The fi sh C RE AM E D FR E S H C OD ON T O AST


,

cu t i n to po r tion pieces washed then l aid Shoulders and tails of cod are o f ten bough t up
, ,

i n sal te d wa ter for an hour taken up an d cheap ; boi l them wi th an on ion i n sal ted wa te r
,

pu t t o boil i n col d sal ted wate r an d m ilk ; and m il k when cool re move al l ski n an d bones , , ,

as soon as the fl esh i s fi rm i t i s done keeping the fl ake s whole ; c rea m sauce made ,

tak e up d rain se rve garn i sh e d wi th boile d


, ,
fro m th e l i q uor they were boiled i n fi nished ,

small po ta toes and eg g sauce poured aroun d wi th a f e w beaten eggs the fi sh fl akes then t e .
,

O th er goo d sauces to serve w i th boile d heated bu t n o t boiled ; served on toas t sprink l ed


c od are oy ster Béchame l and Ho l l and - wi th chopped pa r s l ey an d g arn i shed wi th s t r i ps
,
1
,

a rse .
of toast .
6x
T H E C U LI N A R Y H AND B O O K .

S CAL LOP E D F R E S H C OD FI S H —T h e pre roes blan ched and sk inn ed then rolle d i n flou r ,

ce d ing reci pe fi lle d i n to scall op shells or ova l and fr i ed i n bu t ter ; serve d wi th a s t rain e d
d eep dishes the top sp rin k le d wi th mixed g rated
,
piquan te sauce well re d uced wi th caper v inegar
cheese a n d sifted brea d cru mbs then wi th a n d then add choppe d capers .
,

mel ted bu tter baked a del ica te brown a n d ,


S M O KED C OD S R OES — Are bes t e i the r spl i t '

se rve d and broiled or spl i t and f r I e d i n bu t te r serve d


C R IM P E D C OD S H R IMP SAU C E —To cri mp
. ,

,
wi th M ai tre d H Ote l bu t te r poured over gar '
,

a c o d i t mus t be fresh caugh t then in s tan tly h ishe d wi th l emon.


.


,

kill e d cu t and n o tche d wi th a kn i f e th en


,
, B O I LE D SA LT CO D C R E AM S AUC E B on e ,

boil ed i n sal t wa ter and m il k ; served w i th l ess c o d fis h s teepe d ove r n igh t boiled up wa te r , ,

shri mp sauce poured around and garn i shed thro wn away again boile d u p using col d wa ter ; ,

wi th quar tered h ard boil ed eggs and smal l ,


when done tak en u p a n d d rain ed ; served wi th
,

po ta toes sprinkle d wi th M ai tre d H Ote l bu t ter ’


. cream sauce poure d over garn ished wi th plain ,

C O D S TE A K S A U T E CL U B S Y L T E — S teaks ,
boile d pota toes or wi th potatoes in thei r skin s .

cu t from the m i d d l e of the fi sh seasoned wi th ,


S AL T CO D S H R EDDE D AND C R E AM ED
sal t and pepper di pped in mel te d b u t ter rolled , , T he fi sh prepared as i n th e preceding then ,

i n flour f rie d a pal e col or i n clear mel ted bu t


,
pull ed in to sh re d s m ixed i n to a re d uce d cream ,

ter tak en up a n d draine d pl aced on serving


, ,
o r c ream sauce served on very ho t toas t wi th ,

d ish the ou ter edge of the top garn ished wi th


,
a d us t ing of chopped parsley .

fi ne parsley d us t forming a h orse shoe l obs ter , C OD FI S H B AL LS ; OR C OD F I S H C AKES


cora l pl aced do wn the cen tre and t rianon
-
, T he sh redded c o d fis h of the prece d in g and an
sauce poured aroun d . equa l quan ti ty of wel l mas h ed fresh boil ed
B O ILED C OD FI S H T ONG UE S E G G S AUC E po ta toes seasoned wi th sal t pepper and n u t
—The tongues s teeped for a whole d a y then
, ,
,

, meg boun d wi th a f e w yol k s o f eggs mi xed


, ,

bl anched for ten m i nu tes t a ken up masked , , well made in to small flat tened cakes rol led i n
, ,

wi th egg sauce se rved on toas t . flo u r fried brown i n bacon fa t ; served wi th a


,

S CAL L OP E D F R ES H C OD FI S H T ON G UE S sl ice of bacon and a l i t tl e cream sauce poured ,

- T h e s teeped tongues blanche d for ten m inu tes , around


S C R AM B L E D S ALT CO D ON T OA ST—Th e
.

a th ick Poule t te sauce ma d e from the blanching


s tock tongues then mi xe d in to i t fi lled in to
'

, , cod steepe d doubl e blanche d sh red l igh tly , , ,

scall op shell s o r deep oval d ishes the top , frie d i n bu t ter season e d wi th red pepper equal , ,

s trewn wi th mixed chopped parsley grate d , quan ti ty of crea m and bea ten eggs then m ixed
cheese and b read c rumbs b rowned a n d served ,
.
and sti rred i n to th e fi sh scramb l ed l i g t h l y ; ,

F R I C AS S E E O F C OD S S O U N D S W ITH '
served very ho t on b u ttered toas t .

OYS T E R S —T h e sound s blanched til l n ear l y S CAL LOP E D S ALT C O D ( CO D AU G R ATI N )


—T h e shre d ded and creamed cod fi lled in to
,

done i n sal te d m il k a n d wa te r taken u p an d ,

d rain ed the oys ter then blanched i n the strained


, scal lop shell s or deep ova l dishes sprinkled ,

stock ; c u t th e soun d s a f ter blanchin g to the wi th m ixed gra ted cheese a n d si fted bread
si ze of the oys te rs ; Poule t t e sauce made from c rumbs b rowned i n the oven or un d e r a sal a
,

the b l anch ing stock to which is then ad d ed the , mander .

fi sh ; served on toas t wi th a dus tin g of fi ne l y C ODFI S H C H OWD E R — C an be made wi th


ch opped parsl ey . ei the r fresh or sal t fi sh ; i f the sa l t soak i t over
'
STU FF E D C OD S S O U N D S OY ST E R SA U CE ,
nigh t blanch i t t wice so as to ex trac t the sal t
, ,

— T h e sounds blanched and allowe d to cool ,


fry some smal l pieces o f sal t pork wi th an on ion
then sprea d wi th an oys ter forcemea t ( see mince d when of a l igh t color re move f rom the
, ,

oys ters ) ; when spread coiled aroun d and , fi re ad d th e fi sh i n fl akes ( f reed from bone )
, ,

pinned wi th a small s k ewer rolled i n flou r , ,


some raw peele d po tatoes cu t i n squares a sea ,

then i n mel ted bu tter and then i n si fted b read son ing of thy me marj or am peppe r and a can , ,

cru mbs arranged i n a but te red bakin g pan


, ,
of toma toes fi ll the saucepan hal f fu ll wi th fish
,

roas ted and bas ted wi th bu t te r t il l brown a n d b roth pu t on the l id place i n oven and l e t i t
, ,

fro thy ; se rved very ho t wi th oyste r sauce . si mme r for an hour tak e ou t and work in wi th , ,

B OI LED C O D S R OE S B U T T E R S AUC E ’

,
ou t b reaking the po ta toes an equa l quan ti ty of
T he roes bl anched and skinne d then si m mere d

,
th in c ream sauce add a l i t tle chopped parsley ,

till done i n ho t wate r wi th a d ash of v inegar ; and se rve ( Af ter the c ream sauce i s i n i t mus t
.

serve d wi th a goo d bu t ter sauce con tain in g a n o t be allowed to boil again o r i t wi ll c urdle ) .

l i t tle anchovy essence and ch opped parsley . C O D AN D OY S T E R PIE F R E NC H STY L E ,

B R O I LED C O D S R O E S B U T T E R SA UCE ’

, F resh boil ed c o d i n flakes sca l ded oys ters ,

T h e roes blanched and skin n ed then rolled i n , a d d ed mixed wi th Au rora sauce kep t h o t i n
, ,

flou r and fried i n bu t te r ; served wi th th e sauce bain m arie pl a t ter shaped pi eces of pu ff pas te
-
,

of the prece d ing recipe wi th an addi ti on of sp l i t c o d and oys ters i n sauce p l ace d on th e
,

chopped cape rs l owe r c rus t covered wi th th e uppe r c rus t and


F R I ED C OD S R O E S C AP E R S AU C E —T he
.
,
'
, se r v ed very ho t .
62 THE C U LI N AR Y H AN D B OO K .

C ODFIS H T ON G U E PA T T I E S —T h e tongues C O ND E —pronounced K O N D AY — Te r m app l i ed


s teeped and blanched then f ried wi th bu t te r , , to a d ish of s te we d apricots serve d wi th rice ;
d rai ned m ixed wi th t o ma to sauce fi l l ed i n to
, , also to a soup of pu re e of red h arico t bean s ,


h o t pat ty shells and served . wh ich d i shes i t i s said the Pri n ce of C on d e
S AL T C OD F I S H H A S H N E W E NG L AN D o rigina ted .

C ON S O M M E —N ame app l ie d in cooke ry to a


,

S T YL E — The sh red d ed a n d c reamed cod pre


v i o u s l y men tione d mi xe d wi th an equa l quan ti ty s trong cl arifie d soup th e di ff eren t con som més ,

of pota toes cu t in thi n s trips l i k e m atches ,


seen on bil ls of fare cal l ed C on sommé a la ,

which are then boiled i n c ream ; when d one and thi s a n d a l a tha t si mpl y te r rori zes th e gues ts
,

wel l re d uced mixed wi th the fi sh and served


,
as wel l as the young cooks an d are m erely s ig ,

very h o t on toas t n i fic a n t of the di ff eren t garn i tures that are


C O FFEE —The n ational b reakfas t beverage ; to
.

pl ace d i n the soup o r plate before be ing se rve d ,

be well m ade u se a h igh grade of co ff ee per , or el se the fl avor o f the princ ipal mea t of wh ich
f e c t l y roas te d properl y g roun d t we l ve ounces
, ,
the con sommé was mad e T h e i ngre d ien ts f o r .

to the gal lon of wa te r for m orn ing co ffee wh ile ,


a good general every day con so mmé i s here
f o r a f te r dinn er c o if e e ( wh ich i s gen eral ly served given .

i n small cups ) si x teen ounc es to th e gallon i s C ON S OM M E I N G R E D IENT S —T o make five


req u i red ; fresh boil in g wa ter the momen t i t gallon s ( wh ich quan ti ty shoul d serve 1 0 0 guests )
reaches the bubbl ing poin t then only a l i t tl e a t ,
ta k e fi f teen pounds of L E AN beef tri m mings ,

fi rs t to ope n the pores of the co ff e e and ge t i t si x me d i u m si z ed peeled carro ts same of ,

rea d y to receive th e remainde r which i s to be ,


on ion s t welve lee k s t wo hea d s of celery a
, , ,

pu t on a l i t tl e a t a t i me un til A L L the goo d and bunch of parsley an d a gall on of tom a toes al l


N ON E of th e bi t te rness ( t ann in ) i s ex trac te d ,
choppe d fi ne m ix wi th th em af t e r chopping
, ,

f o r i f i t be too strong fo r some i t can easily be ,


on e tablespoonful of wh ole peppers t wel ve ,

d il u te d wi th boil in g wa te r when i n th e cups ; cl oves si x bay l eaves eigh teen beaten wh i tes
, ,

H O T cups fi rs t then th e sugar then warmed


, ,
of eggs an d t hei r shell s a l i t tle sal t then add , ,

m ilk ( no t boiled ) then the co ff ee a n d i f a ff orded


, , ,
s ti rrin g al l the ti me eigh t gal lon s of g ood s toc k
,

pu t on the top a teaspoon fu l of wh ip pe d c ream ,


free from fa t C OLD or if h o t pl ace a chun k
, , ,

then you have a veri table n ec tar ; the c rea m of ice i n th e saucepan before pourin g i n the h o t
c leaves to th e roof o f th e mou th and the co ff ee ,
s tock Nex t p l ace saucepan on th e range a d d
.
, ,

S l ips d own l i k e the O il d o w n Aaron s beard ' "


.
three hen s ( th ey can be used as sala d s a f ter )
,

C OFFE E I CE C R E AM — On e quar t o f fresh made fe tch to a s l o w si m mer and reduce to abou t fi ve


and cool e d co ff ee w i th th ree pounds of pow
,
gall on s i n fo u r hou rs th en s tra in th rough a ,

d ered a n d sifted sugar to each gall on of pure con somm é towe l ( doubl e cheese clo th ) .

c ream m ixed s t rained i n to the free z e r and


, ,
I n th e follo wing n u me rous con som més there
“ "
f ro ze n wil l b e s tated ce r tain fl avors such as veal ,

C O G NAC pron ounced K ON E Y AK —Th e term


.

“ " ” “ "
ch icken ,
game mu t ton , vege table , ,

u se d by th e F rench fo r bran d y . fi sh e tc When the recipe has th i s s ta temen t


,
. ,

C O L B E R T — Name gi ven to a sauce and a soup . i t mean s tha t th e s tock besides con tain ing th e i h
Sauce mad e o f a pi n t of good Espagn ole i n to r e d i e n t s men tioned for making con somm é s h oul d
, g
wh ich i s m i xe d a l i t tl e mea t gl aze l e mon j ui ce , ,
have an ex tra suppl y of the fl avor called for so ,

chopped pa rsl ey and red pepper made very h o t


, ,
tha t i t wil l be d is ti nc t from the ordi n ary fl avor of
wi thou t being boile d then very gra d uall y bea ten plain con som mé .

C O NS O M M E A F R I C AI N E — C ooked ar tichoke
,

i n a half pi n t e i cl ea r mel ted bu t ter The soup .

i s ma d e wi th a r ich con som m é and con tain s bot tom s and egg pl an t cu t i n s mal l squa res ,

sh re d d ed cel e ry a n d l e t tuce blanched d iced ,


kep t ho t i n con som mé spoon f ul placed i n each ,

ar tichoke bo t toms and sm all bu t ton on ion s .


pl a te a t ti m e of serv ing ; a teaspoon ful of cu rry
C O LB E R T S O U P— An o the r way i s t o m a k e a po wd er to each gallon of s toc k sh oul d be m ixed
rich cream soup l igh ly th ickene d w i th a l iai son
t wi th th e i ngred ien t s be f ore boi l ing so as to give
of egg yolks and c ream i n to wh ich i s th en the soup a l igh t curry fl avor .

C ON S O M M E AN D A LO U S E — Afte r th e pl a in
,

wor k e d a pure e of bl anched hear ts of end ive a ,

f resh sof t poached egg being served wi th each con so m mé i s s trai n ed and season ed some wel l ,

por tion wash ed pear l tapioca i s si m m ered i n i t t il l per


C O M POTE —A t er m used i n c ookery to sign ify
.

f e c t l y c l ear ; small p oach ed quenel l es of force


some th ing whol e i n a sauce H ence a com po te . mea t are k ep t h o t in a l i t tl e con som m é and on e ,

o f frui t i s the frui t ei the r whol e or spl i t and the ,


or t wo a d d ed to each pl a te a t t i me of serving ;
s ton e o r core re move d d roppe d i n to a th ic k ,
the soup shoul d h av e s t rong tom ato fl avor wi th
boil ing sy rup t il l coo k ed wi thou t b rea k ing ,
a suspic ion of garl ic .

coole d se rve d wi th the syrup A compo te of


, . C ON S O M M E AN G LAI S E Pl ain con somm é
bi rd s such as l ar k s ree d bi r d s or tolan s e tc are
, , , . made wi th p l en ty of veal b ones to g ive i t a g el a
the bi r d s bon e d a n d s tu ff ed th en l igh tl y , t i n o u s tas te ; se rve d wi th g reen peas and s mal l
roasted then fi n ishe d cooking i n a brigh t sauce ; squares o f wh i te ch ic k en m e a t i n each p la te
C ON S O M M E B AG R A T I ON —M ake t wo sepa
.
,

served wi th th e sauce .
64 T H E C U L I N ARY H AND B O OK .

C ON S OM M E E PI C U R E — A s trong con som mé CON SOM M E W I T H M AC AR ON I —A ro a s t po u l


of game fla v o r sea s on ed wi th M ad ei ra win e
-
,
t ry s tock sh ould be u se d to m ake the consommé ; ,

a n d served wi th a f reshly poached egg in eac h wh en s train ed o ff a n d season e d served wi th ,

pl a te . macaron i tha t h as been boil e d washed drained , , ,

C ON S O M M E OF G A M E — T h e prece d ing bu t and then cu t i n to quar ter inch pieces ,


-
.

i n place of the egg i t i s serve d wi th quen e lles C ON S O M M E M I L AN AI SE —T h e p receding


,

o r rav iol is m a d e O f uncook e d par tri d ge on e par t ma d e con som m é serve d wi th the addi ti on to the ,

cooke d c al f s b rain s on e par t Parm esan cheese


macaron i on e i nch l eng ths o f boil e d smoked


,
,

hal f par t Y OI k S Of eggs to b in d poun d e d


, tongue ; a b u t ter ch i p f ul l of Parmesan cheese , ,

rubbe d th rough a fi n e si eve molde d in to should be served separatel y , .

quen e l les a n d Poache d C O NS O M M E M O NTE C A R L O —A rich chicken


CO N S O M M E
flavo re d con somm é served wi th sl ices o f cooked
con som me serve W ” a 9 03 ° e yo 0 egg vege tables s t am ped ou t wi th cu t ters represen t ,
'

a n d three quenelles o f veal one o f i ts n a tu ral ing cl ubs spa d es hear ts an d d iam onds also
, '

the o thers be i ng colo red r e d and green c i rcular sl ices o f chicken f orcemea t t h a t i s do t ted
respec tivel y .

wi th tru ffl e s to represen t d o m i noes also Ci r c u


C ONS O M M E I ND I EN N E — S ame as con som m e
,


lar slices of cook e d bee troot carro t an d tu rn ip ,
Af ricaine a d d ing h owever s tri ps of cook ed ,
rep resen tin g pok er ch ips ,
.

chic k en b reas t a n d a l i t tl e d r y boiled rice



.


C O N SO M M E I M PE R A T R I C E A s trong chicken
C ONS OM M E M E F I C I S A r i ch ch i c k en fl avored
00 11 5 0 e l igh tly th ickened W i th corn s tarch ;
fl avore d con som mé served wi th a freshl y poached .

egg i n each pla te .


serve d W i th a f reshl y poache d egg i n each pl a te ,

toge ther W i th a can ape or small pat ty of ch i cken


C O NS OM M E I T AL IE N N E A pl ain con som m e

-

forcemea t served separa tely .

sl igh tl y fl avored wi th tomatoes a n d a suspicion


of garl ic ; served wi th green peas and small C ON S O M M E M ON T M O R E N C Y — A fl av
p ieces o f w ell w a s h e d m a c a r o n i o red ch icken con sommé serve d wi th n oodles
' ‘

. ,


C ON S OM M E I M PE R I AL A chicken fl avo red small ball s of ch ic k en forcemea t and some l e t ,

t u c e l eaves sp read wi th chic k en forcemea t rolled


con som mé served wi th green peas asparagus ‘

poin ts and small q uen elles of chic k en forcemeat up l ike cigare t tes an d braised .
.

M M E gam e flavored
F


'

C o N S O N A P Q LI A INE A _

C ON S OM M E J U LIE N N E A vege tabl e fl avored ’

consom m e se rve d wi th fi n e sh re d s of g reen con som m é to W h l e h 1 3 a d d e d M ade i ra W i ne .

stringl ess bean s carro t tu rni p c abbage cel ery


,
serve
coo
, l
d W i th smal cu t a n d washe d macaron i
,

k ed cel ery cu t i n smal l squares a n d small


, ,
,

leeks spring on ion s and green p e as the v e ge


, , ,
,

tabl es should be sau t eed i n bu t te r fi rs t before crou t on s O f toas t .

E S — A r i ch ch i ck
,

si m mering th em i n th e con sommé C ON S OM M E WIT H N O OD L .

en fl avored con som m e served wi th fi n e l y sh red


C O N S O M M E ] OIN VI L L E —A s trong con sommé
noo dles
wel l fl avored W i th fi sh h ea d s poun d e d l obster
C ON S O M M E N I V E RNAI S E
,
A pl a i n 00 11 “

heads and shell s ; when s t raine d O fl season ed ,


som mé fl avored W i th sher ry wine ; served W i th
wi th wh i t e w ine serve d wi th smal l pieces of ’
smal l q uen elles o f veal t oge th e r wi th fancy
l obs te r a n d c rou t on s s o u ffl e s ,

I tal i an pas te and a macedoin e of vege tab l es


C ONS O M M E K U s e I — A ve ge t a l e fi a v o e
.
,

f C ON S O M M E N AU D I E R A rich chicken fla
f ig

consom m e serve w “l l “ s p o n f 1 O f coo l e


p $1 1 ?
con som m é served wi th smal l quen elles of
sl I t
vo r e d

i bn
tl tl
gi ii gl f zezif fl
zge; zad g izi
e r ea a g‘ s e e c u
ch icken forcem ea t of d i fle r e n t colors ; to m ak e
t
'
i ss i e n e en i s
wh ich t ake some ch ic k en forcemea t and d ivide
M A R I E S T U R T —A mu t ton fla v
,

C ON S O M M E
A
ored consom mé se rve d W i th a spoonfu l of well
i t in to four par ts ; i n to th e fi rs t wor k some fi nely
choppe d tru ffle peel ings ; th e sec ond fi nel y
wash e d ( 3° 0d , pearl barl ey a n d small cu t ,
m inced red t ongue ; th e thi rd chopped parsley ; ,

vege tables o f the season .


th e f ou r th m i n ced yolk s o f h ard boil ed eggs
C ON S O M M E M A C ED OI N E — A chicken fla v
.
,

CO N SO M M E N I L S S ON — A ric h ch ick en fla
ored consomm e served wi th a m ix ture of vari v o r e d conso mm é served wi th s mall quen ell es
Co l O f e d vege tabl es Cu t “1 very s mall s q uares or , of ch icken forcemea t i n th ree col ors sh ape of a
el se use the can n ed m ac e d o m e s penci l an in ch long ; to ma k e wh ich d ivide the
, ,

C ON S O M M E M AGEN T A — A pl ain con som mé f o rcem ea t i n to th re e par ts l eave on e pl ain , ,

sligh tly colored wi th tomato j uice to wh ich i s , col or th e oth e rs r e d and g reen respec ti vel y .

ad d e d a mace d oin e of vege tabl es and some C ON S O M M E OR G E — A plain co nsom m é serve d


choppe d parsl ey a n d celery l eaves . wi th pearl barl ey b reas t of cooked ch icken cu t
,

C ONS O M M E M AS S E N A —M ade wi th plen ty of i n squares carrots a n d tu rn ips cu t i n to smal l


,

h are or j ack rabbi t tri m min gs m i xed w i th th e squares


C ON S OM M E W I T H PE AS —A vege tabl e fla
.

con somme i ngredien ts when s traine d o fi , fla v


O red wi th sherry wine ; served wi th smal l que vo re d con somm é served wi th green peas to ,

g e the r wi th bl ack peas scooped ou t of tru ffles


'

nel l es of r abbi t

.
.
T H E C U L I N ARY H AND B O OK .

C O NS O M M E P OI SSON — A p l ai n con som m é C ON S OM M E SE V E I G N E —A ch icken fl avor ed


sligh tl y fl av ore d wi th fi sh s tock seasoned wi th , consom m é served wi th aspa ragus ti ps c u t s tring ,

sherry wi ne ; served wi th g reen peas d ry boiled , less bean s green peas a n d Roy al cus tar d s
, ,

rice and sm all quenell es o f l obs te r m ixed wi th fo rce mea t


C ON S O M M E P R I N T AN I E R E — A vege tabl e
. .

C ON S O M M E S O L FE R IN O —A s t rong b e e f fla
fl avore d consom m e served wi th p l en ty o f green vo t ed con som mé ; se rve d wi th smal l quenelles o f
peas asparagus tips and othe r sp ring vege ta
, ,
f arin a . Plen ty of roas t beef bon es should be
bles o u t small boiled i n t h e s tock
C ON S O M M E S U E D O I SE —A rich c h i cken fla
. .

C ON S O M M E P R I N T AN I E R E R OY AL— Same
as the preceding wi th th e a d d i ti on of R oyal
, vo t ed con som mé served wi th a smal l c rous ta d e
custards i n to which has b een s teamed a fi n el y
,
i n each p l a te fi lle d wi th a m i x tu re as follows :
cu t macedoine of vege tab l es . run a cou ple of carrots turn ips an d a small cab ,

C ON S OM M E PAY SAN NE —A vege tab l e fl avore d bage th rough a m i ncing m achine b raise the m ,

con som mé se rved wi th a j ard i n iere of v e g e t il l done then mi x wi th th e m a can each of


,

tables sh red cabbage a n d l e t tuc e fl a g e o l e t bean s and green peas also a l i t tl e


C ON SO M M E P R I N C E S S E —A r ich ch icken fl a
.
, ,

Parmesan cheese ; sea son to tas te ,

v o r e d consom mé se rved w i th green peas aspar C ON S OM M E T R OI S R A C I NE S —A mu t ton fla


agus tips pearl barley dice d chicken b r e a s t


, ,
t v o r e d con som mé serve d wi th cubes of braised

and force mea t quenelles . tu rnip carro t and cel ery


, ,

C ONS O M M E PATT I — A plai n con somm é served C ON S O M M E T AL M A — A ch icken flavored con


wi th rice g reen peas b reas t of ch icken a n d
, ,
sommé serve d wi th g rain s of boile d rice a n d ,

tru ffl es cu t i n smal l s q uares t oge th er w i th ,


shape s of R oyal cus tards m ad e o f eggs and
some Parmesan cheese served separa tel y al mond m il k .

C ON S OM M E PAT E D I T ALI E —A chicken fla


.


C ON S O MM E S T X AVIER — A vege table flavored .

vo t ed con somm e served wi th fancy I ta l ian consom mé served wi th a P r i n ta n i é r e of v e ge


pas te .
tables sh red cabbage and the following : C ook
,

C ON SOM M E PRI N C E D E GAL L E S — A game tog ethe r fou r ounces of b u t ter six ounces o f ,

flavored con som m é se rved wi th asparagus tips . fl our t wo ounces o f gra ted cheese on e cu p of
crea m; season i t wi th pepper sa l t and n u tmeg ;
, , ,

R oyal cus tards b reas t of chicken and chicken


, ,

f orcemea t all cu t i n diamond shapes


,
.
remove from the fi re when done a n d bea t i n to ,

C ON S OM M E PA LE ST I NE — A chicken flavored i t t wo who l e eggs t wo yolks o f eggs some , ,

con so mmé served wi th d r y boi l ed rice and thin ,


chopped parsley ; then rub i t through a colan
slice s of s tewed J erusal em ar tichokes d e r i n to th e si m me ring soup
C ON S O M M E VER M I CELL I —I s si mply a rich
.
.

C ON S OM M E W I T H Q U E N E L LE s ASPA R ,

AG U S TI PS T U RN I PS R I C E C O R N
, , , ,
veal flavored con som m e se rved wi th ve rmicell i
PEA S O R A NY O T HE R S I M PL E T H I NG
,
.
tha t has been boiled and then well washed an d ,

A S O FT EN S E E N ON B I LLS O F F A R E drained
C O NS OM M E VOL AI LL E —I s si mpl y a rich
v .

I S S I M PLY A P L AI N C ON S O M M E S E R VE D
WI T H T H E AR T I C L E NA MED .
ch i cken flavored con som mé served wi th s tri ps of
C ON S OM M E R O Y AL E A plain con som mé ch icken mea t .

served wi th ci rcul ar sl ices of R oyal c us tards ,



C O Q T h e F rench word for

cock hence they

and fl avored wi th sherry wine . h ave co q de B ruyere which i n Engl i sh mean s
C ON S OM M E R A C HAE L — A gam e fl avored con
“ "
black cock or heath fowl co q d I n d e or ,

som mé seasone d w i th M ad ei ra win e and se rved tur k ey cock


C OQU ILLE —I s the French word for she ll and
.
,

wi th smal l quenel les o f gam e toge ther wi th



sh red s of cook ed r e d tongue and tru ffl es we have many d i shes se rved en coquille or
C ON S O M M E R E NAIS SAN C E—A game flavored
.

i n shell generall y i n a scallop shell ei ther n a t


, ,

consomm e season e d wi th M al aga win e ; serve d u ral or of me tal or e a r t h e r n wa r e to i mi tate i t


,
.

wi th sl iced mush rooms dry boile d rice green , ,


C O R B E ILL E — Is the F ren ch wo rd for baske t
peas and c rou ton s .
th a t i s used to hold a di sp l ay of c rystalli zed
C O N S OM M E R IVOL I —A p l ain con sommé bu t f rui ts or fl owe rs e tc e tc ,
.

h ighl y spiced ; serve d wi th noodles al so Pa rme ,


C O R DI AL S —O r l iqueurs as the French c al l them ,

san cheese served separa te l y .


en te r in to man y ices a n d dri nks tha t are se rved
C O N S OM M E SEM O U L E — A pl ain consom mé ,
a t banque ts of wh ich the following i s a l is t of
,


when s train e d o ff has tapioca or semol ina washed ,
those m os t used Absi n the Alker mes Bene .
, ,

then si m me re d t il l same is clea r i n the soup .


d i c t i n e Char treuse C ura c oa Kum mel S h rub
, , , , ,

C ON S OM M E S AG O U — S am e as the p reced ing ,


Kirsch or K i r s c h e n was s e r M arasch ino N ec tar , , ,

bu t usin g sago i n ste ad of tapioc a Negus N o ye a u Punch R a t a fia and V e r mou th


, , , .

C O N S O M M E D E S T A E L —A ch icken flavored C O R IAND E R —N ame of an aroma tic seed resem


.

consom mé served wi th l ozenge shaped pi eces of bl ing wh ole peppers in si z e a n d shape used b y ,

fried bread and sma ll quenel l es o f ch icken


, con fec tioners as a fl avoring a l so by the cook ,

fo r cemeat . for season in g green tu r tl e soup .


66 T H E C U LI N A R Y H AND B O O K .

C O R N A m os t succulen t and n u tri tious v e ge


-
m u sh ; t h ey a l s o m a k e a p o l en t a fro m ches tnu t
table I n i ts green s ta te i t i s gen erall y boi le d
.
fl ou r .

f o r abou t t wen ty mi n u tes i n boil ing wa ter con H U L LED C O R N —D ried whi te corn soaked in
tain i n g m il k a n d sal t and i s served on the cob , weak lye for t wo days i s then wel l washed .
,

T h e d rie d corn or mai ze ( M A IS i n French


) is boil ed tender and serve d plai n wi th m ilk I n
, , .

ground coarse or fin e for ma k in g th e fo ll owing the l arge r ci ties the re a re peopl e who prepare
d ish es .
i t and se l l i t ready for b oiling
C O R N MEA L M U S H — On e gallon of water on e T O R T I LL AS A C O RN C AKE M AD E B Y T H E
.

,
,
ounce each of sal t a n d bu t ter The seasoned
M EXI C AN S T h e tor til l a i s t ypical of old M ex
.
-

wa ter i s brough t to t he boi l i n to wh ich i s then


ico and i s encoun tered wherever t h e influence
,
,
s tre wn a n d bea ten on e and a quar ter poun d s of
of the cac tus republ ic has reached I t was .

corn meal ; wh en boile d up again i t should be foun d as the m ai n ar ticl e of f ood among the
,

remove d to the back of th e range where i t mus t i

ancien t A z tecs a t th e t i m e o f th e S pan ish con


si m mer for th ree h ou rs wi th a cove r on ; serve d quest s m ore than th ree a n d a h al f cen turies ago ; ,
wi th c ream o r m i lk a n d suga r
a n d th e l i t tl e h an d g roun d a n d pal m f ash ione d
.
-

F R I E D CO R N M U S H A popul ar b reakfas t -
corn cak e has wel l h eld i ts own down th rough
d ish . T h e mush of the prece d ing when cooked
th e ages bein g today as popul ar an d i n as gen
i s pou re d in to a bu t tered pan sm oo thed the top
,

e ral use as eve r Shell e d corn in te nded for this


, ,
.

then b rushe d wi th mel te d bu t te r to p reven t a use i s fi rs t soak ed over n igh t i n l ime wa ter un ti l
hard s k i n forming allowe d to become col d cu t i n
,
th e ou ter husk o f the kern el s is l oose enough to
,

blocks or sl ices fried plain i n bu t te r o r breaded


,
be re move d by being roll ed be tween the hand s
,

a n d fri ed ; serve d wi th m apl e sy rup


,

a n d i s then rea d y for grind ing T h is i s done


.

C O R N B AT T ER C A K E S —F or recipe see hea d


.

by th e M ex ican wom en of the l ower c l asses


ing o f B a t ters ,

wh o of ten work in th e doorways of thei r homes


.

C OR N G EM S O R M UFF IN S —On e an d a hal f ,

bend ing over th e h i s toric s ton e han d m ill cal led


poun d s of corn m eal th ree quar ters of a poun d
,

,
i n M exico a M AT AT E T he m il l i s si mply a .

o f si f t ed whea t fl our th re e teaspoon ful s o f bak


,
rough slab of s ton e suppor ted by fou r s tocky
ing powd e r hal f a cup of granula te d sugar on e
,
legs and i s m ade of b o l c a n i c tufa the coarse
,
,
t e aspoon f ul sal t al l m ix e d toge ther d ry ; on e
,
grai n o f which i s bes t adap ted for th e grin d ing
and a half pi n ts each of wa ter a n d m il k si x of th e corn bean s ch ill i seeds cheese or wha t ,
, , ,
bea te n eggs half a cupfu l of mel ted bu t ter m i xe d
,
eve r i t m ay be desi red to fi nel y pul veri ze T h e .

together th e d r y an d we t m i x tu res then thor


,
s ton e mil l i s an i nd ispensabl e i tem i n the cu l in
oughl y i ncorpora ted a n d pou red i n to ho t greased ary ou tfi t o f th e t ropical h ome T h e accompany .

pa t ty shell s o r m u fli n rings and bake d ; l igh t a n d ing han d piece l ooking l i k e a ru d e rolling pin i s
d el ici ous
, ,
.
al so of ston e and i s briskly worked up a n d d own
COR N BR E AD
,

j o H N N Y C A KE O R C O RN
,
the incl ine of th e rude s ton e tabl e by th e woman

D O D G E R T h e p reced ing m ix tu re pou red i n to as she bends to her wor k wi th a s tead y swing o f
grease d h o t shallo w bak ing pan s and baked wel l body should ers and ar ms I t i s c lai med that .

d on e wi th c ri sp corn e rs
,

the flou r f o r the tor til l as can b e pe rfec tl y


.

C O R N M E AL G R UEL —Wel l boile d corn meal m ille d only by thei r anc ien t me tho d s a n d when ,

mush t wo thi r d s sli g h tl y sweetene d boiling milk


-
,
on e sees the resul t o f the gri n d ing he i s read y
on e th i r d m ix ed then forced th rough a fi n e
-
, ,
to adm i t tha t possibl y they are righ t A s the .

sieve or colande r .

mois t wi nd rows of the meal rol l o ff th e grin d in g


C O R N WA FFLES —T h e mix tu re above given boar d i t i s caugh t i n a basin and i s then rea d y
f o r “ C orn M u fli n s pou re d in to ho t w afli e
, f o r being formed i n to ca k es f o r baking When .

i rons baked a n d serve d dus ted wi th powd ered


,
ready to bake a woman takes a sm all l ump of
sugar .

th e heavy m ix tu re and l ays i t i n th e pal m o f her


C O R N B L AN C —M AN G E —Equal quan ti ties of h and ; then wi th the o ther pal m sh e roll s i t in to ,

wh i te corn m ea l and corn s tarch mi xed d ry a bal l and begin s to quic k l y pa t i t i n to the de ,

bea ten i n to boilin g m ilk swee ten ed t o tas te si red thi nn ess d e f tl y spread in g th e fi nge rs to , ,

then allowed to si mme r for an h ou r removed a l l o w i t to enl arge i ts si ze and changing i t from
, , ,

flavored poure d i n to d ecora ted m old s turn ed


, h and to h and un til i t i s on l y an eigh th o f an inch
,

ou t when se t an d col d ; served wi th whippe d i n th ic k ness an d generally abou t si x i nches i n


c ream frui t sy rups or s t ewe d frui ts
, diame ter al though so me ti mes as l arge as a d in
.
,

C O R N M E AL O R I NDI AN PU D D I NG —Thick n e r pl ate T h e pl ast ic c a k es are tossed one .


,

well boil ed c orn m eal mush all owe d to partl y af te r ano th er as c omple te d upon th e s tove , ,

cool i n to which i s th en m ix ed see d l ess raisin s


, cal l ed a B rasero a n d as fa s t as del icatel y ,
,

grate d lemon rin d gi nge r bu t te r a l i t tle m olasses


,
b rowned a n d turned they are placed i n a s team
, ,

bea ten wi th a ve ry l i t tl e baking so d a bea ten i n g h eap and enveloped i n a cl o th t o keep the m
,

eggs then bak e d and served wi t h a frui t syrup


, warm .

sauce C OR N FR IT T ER S C anne d corn or coo k e d


.

PO LE N T A—The I tal ian n ame for our corn mea l


,

corn cu t o ff the cob pounded m ixed wi th a l i t tle , ,


T H E C U L I N ARY H AN DB OO K .

flo u r, beaten eggs sal t pepper and a l i t tl e bu t , , ti mes mad e in to a sa l ad by i tse l f ; i s goo d to


ter d roppe d by spoon f ul s in to ho t fa t and frie d
,
mi x wi th l e t tuce salad giving i t a sl igh tly bi t ter ,

brown ; serve d as a garn i ture to ch icken M ary , taste ; i t resembles so mewh a t a cabbage l e t tuce
land s tyle o r as a vege table in appearance and grow th
G R A T ED C OR N PU DD IN G —T wo quar ts of
. .
,

C O T E LETTE S —T h e F rench word f o r our cu t


cooke d corn grated O ff the cob eigh t y olk s of , l e ts bu t i s generally appl ie d to rib chops of
,

eggs cup of mel ted bu t ter pin t o f mil k sal t


, , , , mu t ton la mb an d vea l , .

peppe r a n d n u tmeg m ixed poured i n to bu t , ,


C O U R T B OU I L L O N — I s the n ame of a h igh l y
t e r e d baking pan s baked ; served wi th a sw e e t ,
seasone d bro th use d to boi l fresh wa ter fi sh to ,

sauce .
i mpar t a be t ter fl avor to the m an d i s made
G R EE N C O R N S A U T E — B oiled corn cu t from
,

from carro t onion parsley bay leaves c l oves


, , , , ,

the cob mel te d bu t ter i n sau té pan corn tossed


, ,
th y me gar l ic sl iced l emon chervil sal t a n d
, , , ,

and hea te d thoroughly i n i t season ed w i th sal t , ,


peppe r al l ti e d i n a musl in bag and boile d wi th
,

pepper an d nu tmeg ; served very h o t ; af ter a f e w fi sh hea d s i n wate r con tain ing wh i te or
sau t eeing i t may also be m ixed wi th a cream
,
red win e o r v in egar ; a f te r the s e a s o n i n g i s
or B echamel sauce a n d serve d as a vege tab l e ,
.
ex trac te d i t i s s trained a n d pu t away for use as
G R EE N C O R N B AT T E R C A KE S —T w o quar ts
,

requi re d ; i t al so en ters in to a fe w soups sauces ,

of cook ed corn gra te d from th e cob t welve , an d garn i tures such as H a v r a i s e H ols tein , , ,

ounces o f flou r sal t peppe r nu tmeg pin t and , , , , N orman de a n d V e n i t i e n n e sauces C hambor d ,

a h a l f o f mil k f our bea ten eggs thoroughl y , , and G enevoise garn i tures B ouillabaisse E e l , , ,

mi xed ba k ed on a gri d d le ; se rved wi th bu t te r


, Lobs ter and o the r fi sh soups and bisques .

and sugar or sy rup C R AB S —A re a delec table shellfi sh I n this coun try


C O R N S O UP—Fresh green corn partl y grated
.
,
.

we use f o r foo d t wo kin d s th e hard sh el l blue ,

o ff the cob and placed asi d e ; the res t on th e cob


c rab wh ich pe ri od ically she d s i ts shell thus giv ,

boiled i n chicken b ro th til l ten d er then s train ,



ing us the sof t shell cra b and the oyste r crab "
.

i t o ff on to th e gra te d pul p boil up season wi th , ,


The m al e crab h as a l on g wh i te n ar ro w t ai l ,

bu t te l sal t n u tmeg a n d a l i t tl e sugar the n pass


, , ,
turn ed roun d i ts unde r par t th e fe male has a ,

i t th rough a fi n e sieve in to an equal quan t i ty of broad b ro wn ish f ea the ry tail T h e cen tre o f , .

V é l o u té sauce Ano ther way is to ta k e canned


.
the body is fi lled wi th i t s l iver which i s a so f t ,

corn pound i t rub i t th rough a sieve boi l i t


, , ,
yel l ow sub s tance The mea t used i s ob tained .

wi th mil k then m ix i t wi th V é l o u té sauce


, .
f ro m the i nn er top of th e back a n d the claws , .

C O RN AND T OM AT O S O U P é C an n e d or corn , C rab m ea t i s tas ty bu t comparativel y poor i n


cu t f rom the cob passed through a m incing , n u tri men t an d very h ard to d iges t T here is on e .

mach in e then rubbed th rough a fi n e sieve the


, , fi r m i n th is coun try M c M e n a m i n o f H amp

purée thus ob taine d boiled in a V é l o u té sauce , ,


"
ton Virginia who for years pas t have made ,

then combine d wi th an equa l quan ti ty of tomat o a speci al ty o f pu t ting up fresh cooked crab mea t
purée .
i n cans supplying wi th each can a s u fli c i e n t
,

R OA S T C O RN I N EAR — Youn g green corn wi th n u mber of shel l s to hold the a moun t of mea t .

the thic k ou te r husk s remove d th e in n er l eaves ,


T hey are ob tain abl e o f l ea d ing grocers eve ry
af ter removing the silk tied a t the top sl owly , ,
where an d fro m pe rsonal expe rience of thei r
,

roas ted til l done ; served wi th th e green c over use th e au thor can say tha t he has f oun d thei r
,

ing ; cu t top an d bot tom so as be removed easily .


crab mea t g ive perfec t sa tisfac tion to ho tel
POP C O R N —A varie ty of corn tha t i s hel d in a pa tron s .

wire baske t over h ea t en ough to burs t or pop i t ; C R AB C AKE S — C ooked crab mea t f our par ts ,

i t can then be cemen ted toge ther in to bal l s wi th fresh bread crumbs on e par t m ixe d a n d se a ,

bu t ter and syr u p e tc s on e d wi th sal t nu tmeg red peppe r a n d


R OAS T G R EE N C O RN —Young green corn
.
, , , ,

choppe d pars l ey an d bound wi th raw egg yolks ; ,


s tripped and the sil k re move d arranged i n a ,
ma d e i n to cakes like c o d fis h cakes then
bu t tered b aking pan seasoned wi th sal t wh i te , ,
breaded and fried ; served wi th cream or H ol ~

pepper and mel te d b u t te r sl owl y baked bas ted , ,


l an d aise sauces .

and turn ed til l done .


C RAB T OAST — C ooke d crab mea t sau t eed wi th
C O R N S T A RC H — A preparation of th e in n e r bu t ter seasoned w i th sal t nu t meg a n d red
, ,

par t o f corn used i n m aking b l anc manges -


, pepper ; served piled high on s l ices of ho t bu t
thicken ing soups sauces e tc t e re d toas t
S T EWE D CO R N C R E OLE S TYLE —C ann ed
.
, , .

,
B U T TE R E D C RAB C ooked c rab mea t cu t
corn or corn cooked an d cu t f rom the cob
, ,
smal l two par ts ; fresh b rea d c rumbs on e par t ; ,
m ixed wi th an equal quan ti ty of peel ed and ,

coo k ed to matoes a gra ting o f on ion a n d garl ic m ixed and season ed wi th a l i t tle chopped
, ,

sal t pepper and bu t te r boile d down thick ;


, ,
parsl ey sal t r e d pepper nu t meg caper v inegar
, , , ,

serve d as a vege table .


and mel ted bu t te r then pac ked in to crab shell s , ,

C O R N S AL AD C al l ed “
Douce t te by the sprinkled wi th bread c rumbs then mel te d bu t ,

F rench i s a h e r b use d in m ixing sa l ads ; some


, ter browned in ho t oven and served
, .
68 THE C U LI N A R Y H AN D B OOK .

C RAB S AU SAG ES — C ooked c rab mea t season ed ho t So me cooks ha v e a h abi t of m ix ing the
.

wi th chervil a suspici on of garlic sal t red


, , , c rab mea t wi th a highly season ed sauce in stead
pepper and m ince d ch i ves the wh o l e pounded , , of the d i rec ti on s j us t gi v en wi th the resu l t tha t ,

rubbed through a si eve b oun d wi th raw yolk s , i f n o t al l served a t th e on e m ea l they go fla t ,

o f eggs formed in to shapes of sausages


, rol led , wh en co l d and l ook unsigh tl y and un se rvice
,

i n flou r fri ed a de l ica te b rown wi th bu t ter ;


, abl e when reh ea ted .

served wi th tar tar sauce SC ALL OP E D C R AB S —T he devi l ed crab m ix


C RA B F R ITTE R S — C ooked c rab mea t fi nely
.

tu re of the precedin g m oistened wi th V él o u t é


m inced mixed wi th a l i t tle m i nced fri ed on i on
, , sauce fi lled in to crab or scall op she ll s or smal l
, ,

a suspicion of garl ic seaso n ed wi th sa l t pepper , , , ova l deep d ish es s trewn wi th gra ted cheese ,

n u tmeg d ry mus tard Worces tershi re sauce and


, , an d m el ted bu t ter b rown ed i n h o t oven and ,

chopped pars l ey al l boil ed down i n a V elou té , serve d .

sauce til l thick ; then i s worked i n a few bea ten B AKED C RAB S —M inced sha ll ots thin l y s l iced ,

egg yolks removed an d poured i n to a bu t tered


, mush rooms l igh tl y fried toge ther wi th bu t te r ,

pan and allowed t o become co l d ; th en cu t in i n to wh ich i s then m i xed cooked crab meat ,

fi nge r s l ices d ipped i n to a th in frying ba t ter


, , tru ffl e tri m mi ngs chopped par s l ey sal t r e d , , ,

fried ; se rved wi th tar tar sauce .


peppe r a n d a li t t l e V él o u t é sauce ; fi ll ed i n to
C RAB C AN AP E S —M in ced c ooked c rab mea t large crab shel l s s trewn wi th fresh sif ted b rea d ,

m ixed wi th a l i t t l e fi nel y minced fri ed shallo ts , cru mbs b rowned in oven served h ot
, ,
.

s easoned wi th sal t red peppe r and gra ted Par ,


C RAB S C R E OL E S T YL E — L ive h ard shell
mesan cheese b oiled down th ick wi th a rich ,
,

crabs fis h ke t t l e wi th separa te perforated


-

V é l o u t é sauce allowed to cool then spread on ,


, ,
bo t tom under which i s poure d whi te win e v in e
f ancy shapes of toas t the m ea t then s tre wn wi th ,
,

gar season ed wi th sal t and red peppe r ; l ive


gra ted cheese browned o ff i n ho t oven and ,
c rabs placed on th e fa l se bo t tom l id of ke t t l e
served .
,

C RAB O M E LET—Th e preceding m ix tu re wh ile


p l aced on tigh t l y ke t t l e pu t over a good fi re ; ,

when c rabs are of a brigh t red col or taken u p


s till h o t enc l osed i n cen t re of ome l e t ; served ,

and served a t once wi th th e under she l l separa ted .

wi th V é l o u té sauce poured aroun d


O F C R AB S —C ooked c rab m ea t
.

C R AB S ALAD — C ooked c rab mea t cu t fi n e sea C R O U ST AD E


sau t eed wi th m i nced sha l lots in bu t ter seasoned


,

s o n e d wi th oil tarragon v inegar sa l t and red


, ,
,

peppe r mi xed wi th a l i t tl e fi n ely sh red and wi th sal t red pepper and c aper v in egar mois t
, ,

m inced wh i te cabbage ; served on a l eaf of ened and heated wi th sauce N o rmande fi l l ed ,

l e t tuce garn ish ed w i th sh red l e t tuce s tu fle d


,
i n to b read or pas te crous tades ; served very ho t .

o l ives an d slices of h ard boi l ed eggs


, . C RA B F O RC E M E AT —C ooked c rab m ea t fi ne l y
CRA B ST E W—C ooked crab m ea t season ed wi th m inced wi th ch ervi l ch ives an d a sm a ll clov e ,

sal t peppe r an d n u t meg made h o t i n a r ich


, ,
of ga rlic season ed wi th sa l t r e d pepper an d
, ,

B échame l sauce ; se rved i n cases or c rous tades ,


caper vinegar pounded then rubbed th rough a , ,

the top sp rink l ed wi th pars l ey dus t .


fi n e sieve bound wi th raw egg yo l ks Se t aside
,
.

C R AB Q U E E N STYL E C o l d cooked c rab - fo r use .

C R AB C ROQ U E TT E S —C rab forcemea t m ad e


,

mea t in sh reds th ree par ts fi n el y shred hear ts ,

of ce l ery on e par t m ixed seasoned wi th tar ra , , i n to shapes breaded fried ; served wi th sauce
, ,

gon v in egar ol ive oil sal t and red peppe r filled


, , ,
j oinvil l e .

C R AB K R O M E S KI E S —C o l d crab forcemea t
in to c rab shell s masked wi th mayonn aise d ec , ,

ora ted wi th small shapes of hard boiled eggs ,


rolled in to si z e and shape of a fi nger bound
l obste r cora l and sl iced s tu fle d o l i v es ( calle d ,
,

wi th a th in s l ice of c old boil ed bacon pin n ed


C R AB A L A R E I N E ) .
,

wi th a too thpick d ipped i n to a pl ain b at te r


E MIN C E O F C RAB — S hredded c ooked c rab
, ,

fried t oo thpick re moved ser ved wi th tar tar


, ,
mea t season ed wi th sal t red peppe r dash o f , ,
sauce .

Worcestersh i re sauce and cape r v in egar mi xed


S T U F F E D C RAB —C ooked crab m eat seasoned
,

wi th a l i t tle Parmesan cheese tossed and ,

thoroughl y h eate d i n a sau toi r wi th bu t ter ; wi th tarragon vinegar curry powder sa l t and , ,

served on ho t bu t tered toas t sprink l ed wi th ,


red peppe r sl igh tly m ois tened wi th V é l o u t é
,

chop ped pars l ey .


sauce fi lle d i n to shell s s t rewn wi th s i fted
, ,

D E VIL E D C RAB S —Cooked crab mea t m ixed


b read c ru mbs bake d ; served very ho t ,


.

wi th m ince d whi tes of h ard boi l ed eggs and the T O M ATOE S ST UF FED WIT H C R AB —R aw
yolks rubbed th rough a sieve season ed wi th ,
peel ed toma toe s of an even si ze h ol lowed ou t , ,

sal t red pepper d ry mu stard Wo rcestersh i re


, , ,
seed s rem oved th e ou tside then c ove red wi th ,

sauce an d tarragon vi n egar ; m ade h o t wi th a c rab force mea t and the i nside fi l l ed wi th dev ,

good allowance o f me l ted bu t ter fi l led in to ,


i l l e d c rab m i x tu re smoo the d o fl rolle d i n sif ted , ,

shell s s moothed s trewn wi th sif ted bread


, ,
bread c rumb s baked and basted wi th bu t ter ; ,

crumbs b rowned o ff i n the o v en and serv ed v ery


,
ser v ed ve ry ho t .
T H E C U L I N AR Y H AN D B OOK .

CR AB SA U C E —C ooked c rab m ea t m inced w i th S O FT S H E L L C RAB S STEAM ED —L ive c rabs


a fe w mush room s season e d wi th n u tmeg sal t , , ,
wi th the small claws a n d san d pouch rem ove d ,

red peppe r a n d l emon j uice sim me re d i n ,


place d on f al se bo t tom of fi sh k e ttl e con tain in g
Béchamel sauce for a few m inu tes ; chopped vinegar and wate r un d erneath ; s teamed ten
parsley may be ad d e d i f d esi red . m inu tes se rve d wi th B échamel sauce
,
.

C R AB G U MB O ( soup ) Very smal l squares of -


OY S T E R C R AB S S AU C E PO U LET T E—Wel l ,

raw l ean h am fri e d a d elicate brown wi th washed oys ter c rab s sau t eed wi th bu tter sea ,

m inced on ion or shallots a n d c rab m eat flou r , s o n e d wi th sal t a n d pepper mois tene d wi th ,

ad d e d to form a roux moisten e d wi th e q ual ,


H o l l andaise sauce s h arp wi th l emon j uice add ,

par ts of c o u r tb o u i l l o n an d ch ic k en b ro th ,
a l i t t l e choppe d parsley ; tak e a small oval pla t
brough t to t h e boil s k i mmed ; shred green pep , ter pipe a border of po ta to c roque t te m ix ture
,

pers sl iced ok ras an d peele d a n d sliced tom a


,
around the edge b rush i t wi th but ter a n d b rown
,

toes then ad d e d sim mere d f o r an hour sea , , i t o ff i n th e oven o r un d er a salamander ; serve


s o n e d wi th sa l t red pepper herbs a n d whi te
, , the oys ter c rabs in the cen ter .

win e a spoon f ul of d r y boiled rice place d i n


, OYS T ER C R AB S F R IED — Oys ter crabs wel l
each pla te a t t ime of serv ing .
washed and draine d seasoned wi th sal t a n d ,

B I SQU E O F C R AB S — L ive c rabs blanche d as pepper tosse d i n flou r th rown i n to col d mil k
, , ,


f o r C reol e s tyl e mea t rem ove d a n d l igh t l y
, then in to si f ted b read c ru mbs frie d i n ho t deep ,

f ried wi th minced shallo t s and a c l ove of garl ic grease l ik e whi tebai t ta k en up d raine d , , ,

i n bu t te r m oi s tened wi th fi sh b ro th a n d whi te
, sprin k led wi th sal t ; served i n cases or c r o u s
wi ne b rough t to th e boil shell s then ad d ed
, , tad es .

wi th some wel l washed rice ; wh en rice i s —


OY S TE R C RAB PA T T I E S M ake the oyster “

coo k ed l i t tl e roux a d d ed the whol e then rubbed


, , c rabs sauce Poul e tte above fll l small pu ff
, ,

th rou gh a tamis o r purée s e i v e b r o u g h t to the boil , paste pat ty sh ell s wi th the mix ture ; serve wi th
agai n skim me d season e d wi th sal t red pepper
, , , som e Poul e t te sauce aroun d th e base .

and sherry win e ; served wi th small c rou ton s .


OY S T E R C RAB S N E WB U R G —Well washed
B I SQU E O F C RAB S C R E OLE STYL E — B o i l
,

,
a n d d rain ed oys ter c rab s sau t eed in bu t ter for
hal f a poun d o f rice to e ach gallon of soup r e fi ve min u tes wi th som e t ru ffle tri mmings then ,

qui re d when d on e a d d i ts equal weigh t of


, i s adde d some M ad eira win e reduce to o n e ,

cooke d crab mea t poun d to a paste a d ding , , hal f then work i n a l i ai son of egg yo l ks an d
,

hal f a cupful of mel ted bu t ter a n d a flavor of cream shu ffl e abou t til l th ick a nd creamy ; serve
,

n u tmeg then rub i t th rough a pu rée sieve ; m ak e


, ei the r in a tureen o r chafing dish .

th e soup s tock of th i n V él o u té sauce add the rice


C R AB APPLE S — A smal l sou r appl e used as a
,

a n d crab pu rée bring to a si mme r then a d d


, ,
preserve crystali zed or in j am s or j ell ies also
, , ,

sl iced ok ras m inced red a n d green peppers


, ,
a me d icin al ci d e r .

sl ice d peel ed tom a toes season wi th th yme , ,


C R AN B ER R I E S — A smal l red frui t tha t when
m arj oram red pepper and l e mon j uice sim mer
, ,
ma d e in to a s auce or j e l l y i s rel ishe d by th e
slow l y for on e hou r a n d serve
maj ori ty as an accompan i men t to roas t tu rk ey
.

B OI L E D S OFT S HEL L C R AB S — L ive c rab s


,

e tc

.

wi th small Claws an d sand pouch removed ANB E RY C ranberries washed th en


,
CR R P I E ,
d ropped i n to boil in g sa l te d water an d sim mered pu t to boil wi th sugar and a very l i t tle wate r ;
for ten m inu tes ; served wi th V él o u té or pars l ey when don e allowe d to become cold ; pi e plates
,
sauces .

l in ed wi th shor t paste sp rea d wi th th e c ran


S OFT S H E LL C R AB S FR I E D — Live c rabs
,

wi th sand p Ou c h removed season ed wi th sal t ,

an d pepper dipped i n mil k rolled i n flo ur


, , ,
C R AN B E R R Y J AM —o r sauce— i s th e preced ing
then i n bea ten eggs and agai n b read crumbs ,
m ix ture boiled down w i th m ore sugar u ntil
fri ed i n d eep fa t o r slowl y in bu tte r ; served
th ick en ough to coa t a spoon .

wi th tar tar sauce or wi th mayonnai se g arn _

C R AN B E R RY ] ELLY —Wel l washed c r an b e r


, ,

i s h e d wi th parsley an d l emon .

r ies : to each gall on half a gal lon o f wa ter pu t


S OFT S H E L L C R AB S B R OIL E D —P repared , ,
-

to boi l and boiled for ten m in u tes they are the n ,


and breaded as i n the prece d in g place d be tween ,
mashe d and squeeze d th rough a flann el j elly
a doub le h inged wire broile r broi l ed an d basted ,
bag the j uice then re tu rn e d to the fi re wi th fou r
wi th bu t ter ; served wi th tar tar sauce g arn ,
,
pounds of sugar to each o riginal gall on of c r an
i s h e d wi th parsley and l emon .

be rries th i s i s th en rapidly boiled from fi fteen


C U R RI E D S O FT S HE LL C RAB S — Take the ,

to twen ty m in u tes th en poure d i n to mo l d s and ,


very smal l ones and boil the m a few m inu tes ,
se t ; se rved wi th tu rkey o r as a preserve .
,
then sau té the m wi th mi nced on ion i n bu t ter '

C RAN B E R R Y R O L L Ligh t bi scui t dou g h


,

tak e up an d pu t in to cu r ry sauce simm er a


, ,

f e w m inu tes ; served w i th a border of boiled swee ten e d and fl avored rolled ou t th in spread , ,

rice i n grain s . wi th cranber ry j am ro ll ed up end s tucked in , , ,


70 TH E C U L I N A RY H AN D B OOK .

p l aced i n bu t tered F ren ch bread pan s an d the fi re fl a vored turn ed i n to a we t pan a l lowed
, , ,

bak e d ; o r s teamed ; or tie d in a flou red cl oth , to become cold and fi rm then cu t i n to shapes , ,

plunged in to boil ing wate r a n d boi l ed ; served d oub l e brea d ed f ried served wi th the f ollow , ,

i n sl ices wi th swee t sauce . i ng c rea m sauce .

C R ANB E R R Y T AR T LE T T E S—Fancy se ts of C R E AM S AU C E —Two th i rd s mi l k an d on e thi rd


ge m pan s lined wi th pu ff pas te t ri m m ings , c ream m ixe d and swee tened b rough t to the ,

spread wi th c ranbe rry j a m baked ; served for ,


boil then th ickene d to th e con sis tency of
,

d esser t . doub l e c ream wi th a l i t tle corn s tarch m oi stened


T H E R E AR E T I M ES WH E N T H E S T EWA R D wi th c rea m an d egg yo l k s s t rained fi n ished , ,

C A N B UY G OOD S O UN D C R AN B E R R I E S
wi th a gl ass of M ad eira wine .

VE RY C H E AP ; H E S H O U LD T HE N D O C R E AM P U FF S— Ch oux paste ( see reci pe ) piped


S O F O R T H EY C AN B E KEP T S O U N D
,
i n to dome shapes on a bakin g shee t ba k ed , ,

F OR M ON T H S I F F I L L E D I N T O J A R S ho l e then m ade in side and filled wi th a c ream ,


“ ”
AN D K E P T I N A C OOL PL A C E C OVE R E D ,
made a s given for c ream fri t ters above bu t ,

WI T H WA T ER T HAT I S OC CAS I ONAL LY so f ter .

R EP L E N I S H E D .

WH IPPE D C RE A M —G ood heavy cold cream ,

C RAPAUD IN E A French term app l ied to wh i pped till i t s tand s l i ke beaten wh i tes of eggs ;
s mal l b i r d s tha t are spl i t d own th e back then , u se d for beve rages d esser ts as an a c c o m p a n i , ,

t russe d ou t resembl in g a frog such as spring , m en t to S hor tcak e e tc , .

B A V A R I AN C R EA M —T h e wh ipped c ream
chicken s squabs qu ail s par tri d ges e tc h ence
, , , , ,

“ ”
a s q uab a l a crapa u d in e would be a squab
above when fi rm is swee ten e d and flavore d
, ,
spl i t sp read ou t and t ru ssed l ike a frog broi led
, ,
then mel ted gel atine a t th e ra te of two ounces
and served w i th crapaud in e sauc e .

to the ga l lon i s worked i n quickl y rapi d ly


C R AY F I S H — Al so cal l ed c r a w fis h i s a d i m i n u
,

pou red in to m olds shook l eve l se t i n ice box , ,

tive l ookin g l ob ster foun d plen tifully i n o u r ,


til l fi rm tu rned ou t on a d ish ; serve d e i the r
,

rivers I n Europe th ey ca tch a sea crayfi sh and


.
pl ain o r wi th cake frui t compo tes e tc
, , , .
,

of ten sel l i t as a l ob ste r ; cu r rive r c ray fi sh on


accoun t of i ts for m an d col or bri ngs i t i n to use B AVARI AN C R E AM — M ay a l so be m ade wi th
“ "
as an ar tistic garn i tu re wh il e th e fl esh from t he ,
an equa l quan ti ty of th e cre a m fri tter mi x
tai l form s man y del ica te e n t r ee s salads and ,
ture above and th e p reced ing recipe T h e en d s .

sauces a l so soups th a t are m uch though t o f


, ,
an d sides o f th e mold s may be previ ously d ecor
on th e Eu ropean co ntin en t .
a ted wi th fru i ts and the orn a men tal t op of t h e ,

C REA M — “
S pelled b y th e F rench cr eme i t i s mold wi th pl a i n swee ten ed crea m flavo re d a n d
th e ol eagin ou s par t of m ilk and form s th e m os t c ol ored se t wi th gela tin e ; al so th e c rea m b e
,
,

d e l ica te soup s sa u ces cus tard s c reams i ces


fore bein g pou red in to the m ol d s may h ave
, , , ,

ru s ses s o u ffle s cheeses a n d pas t ries In candied peel s seedless raisin s pistachi o n u t s , , ,
, , .

gene ral h o te l rou tine th e cook uses the word ’ al mon ds m armala d es stewed a n d fresh frui ts
, , ,
,

cream when l i t tl e o r n o cre a m a t al l i s u sed


.
pieces of win e j elly e tc s ti rred i n The flavo r ,
. .

an d w i th the followin g recipes such “ c ream s ings used are di ff eren t sy rups l iqueu rs e s , ,

wil l pred om in a te senc es e tc ; a l so co ff ee t ea an d chocola te


, , .

I CE C R E AM — Th ere a re t wo ways of m a ki n g i t
.

C R E AM S AU C E — B oi l in g m i l k m e l te d b u t te r i n ,
,

a saucepan wi th a s m uch fl ou r a s i t w il l tak e the bes t bei n g made of pu re c ream swee ten e d
u p s ti rred t oge ther g raduall y mois ten e d wh il e
an d flavored then s train ed i n to a free zer and
,
, ,

sti rring wi th th e boil in g m i l k season ed w i th froz en The o the r way i s to boi l mil k a n d
.

sal t red pepper n u t meg an d l as t l y wh en r e suga r th icken i t wi th a l iai son of egg yol k s a n d
,
, , , ,

mov in g from t he fi re the j uice of a lem on i s c ream or corn starch then wi th eggs o r mil k
, , ,
,

a d d ed s traine d th rough a fin e s train er and som e and eggs th us form ing a fro zen custard ( bu t
,
, ,

pu re c ream then m i x ed i n .
wh ich i s call ed ice c ream ) ; again o th er s th ic k ,

en o r stiff en boilin g m il k wi th gela tin e I ri sh


B E C HAM E L S AU C E —Boi l ing ch icken broth
,

m oss e tc then flavor a n d f reez e


, . Al l the .

fl avored w i th th e l iquor from can n ed mush d i ff eren t k i nd s of ice c ream seen o n bill s of
room s flo u r an d bu t ter m ixe d m ois t en ed
, ,
"
fare have ei th er of th e foregoing as a basis ,

grad ual l y w i th th e boil in g l iqu o r wh il e s ti rrin g , the flavors co l ors shapes e tc given after
, , , .

season ed wi th red pep per sal t lemon j u ice an d , , wa rd s .

n u tm eg s train ed th rough a fi n e s t rain er on e


,
, C R E A M OF T ART AR A mos t va l uab l e in gred -

fou r th of i t s bul k o f pu re c ream then added . i e n t of baki ng powders I t i s al so for feverish .


,

C R E A M F R IT T E RS — B oilin g m i lk wi th a smal l peop l e on e of th e mos t per f e c o f bloo d coolers


, t

piece of bu t te r s wee ten ed to taste th ick en ed


, ,
when made in to a d rin k as foll ows : G ra te th e
wi th corn starch m i xed wi th c rea m allowed t o ,
rin d s of th ree l emon s and a d d t h e ju i c e of them
boi l up again then fu r ther th ic k ene d wi th a
,
to a cupfu l of gran ul ated sugar an d th ree d es
l iaison of egg yo l ks and c ream re mov e d from ,
ser t spoon fu l s of c rea m of tar tar ; on th i s pour
THE C U L I N AR Y H AND B O O K .

then p assed th rough a purée sieve ; if to be use d C U R R Y — N ame of a ye ll ow powde r composed gen
for soup i t i s th inn e d to the d esi red cou sis
,
e r a l l y of turme ric cori ander see d s car d amon s
, , ,

t e n c y wi th eq ual par ts o f wh i te s tock and m ilk , cu mi n seeds r e d p eppe r ginger g arl ic ch illies
, , , , ,

an d seasoned wi th n u t meg a n d sugar . ci nnamon and black pepper ; u sed i n mak ing
m u l l i g a t a w n e y soups a n d i n fl avoring food
C U C U MB E R S AL AD— S lice d cucumbers s teeped ,

in sa l te d wa ter a n d ice for an h ou r then sauces tha t are calle d cu rries .

C U RI NG —B y a sa f e and si mp l e me thod app l ica


,

d rained dish ed up al terna te l y wi th sl ices o f


,

pic k l e d bee t an d quar tered hard boile d eggs ,


bl e to cou n try ho te l s an d s mal l i ns ti t uti on s of ,

b a rn s a n d bacon T h e c on d i ti on s un d er which
d ressed wi th oil and vinegar sal t and peppe r
.
.
,

the cu ring o f bacon m ay be con d uc te d success


C U C U M B E R AN D ON I ON S ALA D — S l iced
f ully is a uniform cool ness in cellar a uni f orm
cucumbe rs s teeped i n sa l ted ice wa te r for an ,

s treng th o f pickl e thorough cleanlin ess the , ,


hou r a f e w sprin g on i on s al so sl ice d ; cucu m
,
cell ar temperatu re sh ould n o t excee d 5 0 degrees
bers d rained then mixed w i th the on ion s ;
,
F B acon i s cu red by si mply rubbi ng th e si d es
.

se rved wi th salad c rea m d ressing .

wi th pow d ered sal t to wh ich h as been ad d ed a


C U C U M B E R S F R E N C H S TYL E —Sl ice th e
, l i t tle sal tpe tre then p l acin g on the cellar fl oor ;
,

cucu mbers ve ry th in s teep them i n sal ted wa ter , they are then covered wi th sal t to wh i ch h a s
for severa l h ours then d rain and m i x wi th , been adde d 5 pe r cen t of sal tpe tre and a l .
,

F rench d ressin g con t ain in g some chopped tar l o w ed to l ie for a week T h e sal t i s then t e .

ragon ; serve on a c ri sp l eaf of l e t tuce .


moved an d t h e sides tu rne d rubbed agai n wi th
, ,

C U C U M B E R KE TC H U P— L arge cucu mbers sal t sa l tpe t re a n d a l i t tle sugar a n d allo wed t o


, ,

peel ed and cored then gra te d ; to each gallon of ,


l ie co ve red wi th a fresh quan ti ty of sal t an d
pul p af ter bein g draine d i s mi xe d h al f a gallon ,
sal t pe tre for ano ther week ; th e sal t i s then al l
of cid e r vinegar t wo teaspoon ful s o f red pep ,
re moved a n d the sides are ei the r hung u p to
,

pe r eigh t teaspoon ful s of sal t an d on e pin t of ,


d r y o r a ll owed to l i e in th e cel lar f o r an o the r
,
,

fresh gra te d horse rad i sh ; when th oroughly i n week af te r wh ich the b acon i s ready i n the
,

“ ”
c o r p o r a t e d i t i s bo t tled an d sea l ed .
green s tate or i t may then be smoked .

The bes t smok i ng materi al s are oak dus t o ak


P I C KLED C U C U M B E R S — S mal l pick l ing cu ,

ch ips pea t whea t s t ra w ash dus t o r chi ps of


, , , ,
cu mbe rs selec t and fi r m well washed and wipe d ; ,
o ther hard woods ; t he t wo of grea tes t v alue

ta k e 4 0 0 of them and pu t them i n c rocks ; m ak e


are the oak dus t an d pea t each i m par ting a ,
a boiling b rin e s trong en ough to fl oa t a po ta to
charac teri s tic flavo r T h e word sides i s u se d .

the si ze of an egg pour i t ove r the m a t boil ing ,


all owing for wh ole ha l ves of th e bacon hog ; b u t
poin t an d l e t the m s tand for 2 4 h ou rs then r e ,
i f bellies alon e are re q ui red the process i s the ,
move wipe and pu t i n to cl ean c rock s a n d cove r
, ,
same .

wi th ho t vinegar spiced wi th cloves mace on ion , , ,


C U ST ARD —Name appl ied to a mi x ture of eggs ,
and a pound o f m us tard seed .

m ilk and sugar m ixed toge the r then b ake d


C U M I N — Nam e of a seed u sed i n E u rope as a
, , ,

s teamed or boil ed T h e bes t p ropor tion i s : t o


.

flavoring for ste ws in cheeses an d b y th e G er , ,


each q uar t of m i lk work i n eigh t bea ten eggs, .
,

m an s l n b read .

si x ounce s of sugar th en fl avor ; o r th e m il k


C U R AC OA — N ame of a l iqueu r m ade f rom bi t ter
,

m ay be b oiled wi th a fl avoring th en al lowed to ,

orange peel ; i n c oo k ery i s u sed as a flavori n g to cool ; th e custard to be i n per f ec t cond i tion
swee t sauces c reams j ell ies and bl a n c m anges
, , ,
-
.
mus t onl y be all owed to reach the boil ing or
C U R D — I s the basi s of cheese ; th e sol id par t se t tl ing poin t as i f al l owed to cook l on ge r i t
,

o f m i l k ; used b y confec t ion ers i n produci ng wil l disin tegra te and become watery .

cheese cakes bl anc m anges curds an d wh e y


,
-
, ,
C U T L E T S Are rea l ly rib ch ops o f l amb pork , ,
cur d puddin g curd pu ff s e tc , , .

mu t ton and vea l bu t the te r m i s al so appl ied to


C URRAN T S —Are of th re e c o l ors an d fl avors
,

neatly t ri m med sl ices of th e same mea ts ; al so


red wh i te an d b l ack ; th ey al l mak e goo d p i es ;
,
t o a slice c u t an i nch th ick righ t ac ross the
the whi te a n d red are al so c ooke d i n sy ru p , m idd l e of a l eg of mu t ton ; the term i s also a p
" ”
bo t tled a n d named B ar l e duc j el ly ; th e blac k
,
- -
pl ied to b reas ts of ch icken game an d pou l try ; ,

make fi n e j ams and j ell ies win e vi n ega r gi n , , , . i mi ta tion c u tle ts are al so m ad e of c roque t te
D R I E D C U RR A N T S — A re a d i ff eren t varie ty a m ix tures shaped i n to rib chop form .

C Z ARI N A—N ame of a R ussian sauce often


,

sor t of smal l see d l es s g rape th a t g ro ws wil d i n


par ts of G reece ; they are ri pen ed o n the v i ne ,
se rved i n th a t coun try wi th boiled tongue I t .

then pic k ed and pac k ed i n to b arre l s f o r m ing ,


i s composed of a good E spagnole sauce con tai n
a soli d mass and ex por ted al l ove r the wor l d ;
,
i n g m i nced gh erkins seedless rai sin s and le mon ,

the y are u se d i n pudd ings m i nce m ea t sauces - j uice si m me red ti l l the raisin s are so f t
,
.

D AM S O N —T h e n ame of a pecu l ia r flavored smal l


, , ,

pic k l es d umpl ings cakes b u n s p a ncak es an d


, , , , ,

a l so made i n to a ch e ap win e . blue pl um tha t if eaten r a w would con trac t the


T H E CU L I N A R Y H A N D B O OK .
73
j aws ; i t i s therefore a l ways served i n a cook ed cen tre ; some ti mes cal le d B erlin pancakes or "

“ " "
con d i tion i n which f orm i t i s rich a n d d el ici ous ;
, brioche f ri t ters ; a l a D auph in e i s u sed by
i t makes a fi n e p reserve j am j e ll y wine com , , , , some cooks when decoratin g food wi th d auph ine
p Ote pu d ding pie and ta r t l e t te cakes

. .
, ,


D ANDE LI ON O r as the F rench c al l i t den t “
D E MI GLAZ E — I s ha l f glaze or gl aze mixed to
-
,

d e l ion
-
den t mean ing tooth i n asmuch as i ts ,
f or m a brigh t j ellied gravy .

pe c u i l a r shaped l eaves r e s e mb l e l i o n s tee th It D E VIL S —Deville d fi sh m ea t bones e tc such



.
.
, , , ,

makes a very pl easan t sal ad ei ther b y i tself o r , as pork spareribs ham l obs ter mea t sardines , , , ,

mixe d wi th o the r salad leaves T h e l eaves .


k idneys bone d l egs o f coo k e d poul try sal mon
, ,

sh ould be ga th ere d be f ore the sun i s s trong s teaks e tc are th e ar tic l es highl y seasone d or
, .
, ,

enough to toughen the m T h e m os t simple way .


spread wi th a highly seasoned pas te then broile d ,

of serving and that mostly l ike d is d andel ion , a n d serve d wi th o r wi thou t a pungen t sauce a p

leaves wi th F rench d ressing ; dan d el ion l eaves p r o p r i a t e t o t he f ood .

and sorre l i n equa l par ts the dandel ion c ooke d ,


D I AB L OT INS —The French term for smal l balls
hal f don e before th e sorrel l eaves a re added ; of swee t mea ts generall y composed of al mon d
is used as a vege table by th e French .
paste rice pas te a n d g rated orange peel made
D A R I O L E S —T h e name of a smal l p l ain or flu ted
, , ,

i n to ball s f rie d i n very h o t lar d d raine d then


, , ,

m old these are l in ed wi th thi n paste then fi lled


, , rol led i n flavored pow d ered sugar ; a l so ball s o f
wi th a cheese cake m i x ture swee t cus tard m ix , the m ix ture given fo r c h e e s e s t r a w s wi th an egg
tu re o r whippe d c ream tu rned ou t when don e , , yol k a d d e d then fl oure d and fried taken up a n d
, ,

and se rved l ike a sma ll Charlo t te r u sse .


rol l ed in grated cheese .

— D IAM OND B A C K — Name of the ter rapin tha t



D A R NE Name some ti mes seen on bil ls of fare .

I t i s the F rench word fo r sl ice and i s general ly , i nhabi t s th e sal t m arshes o f t he C hesapeak e ,
“ "
used i n the te rm Da m e de sau mon which i s and i s gen erall y sol d b y the i nch 7 t o 8 inches ,

a sal mon s teak .


being i n t he bes t of condi ti on a n d bringing the
D ART O I S —I s th e nam e given to a certain k ind
,
'
highes t p rice f rom $ 6 to $ 1 0 each , .

of cak e made wi th pu ll pas te and m arm al ade ; D I G E STI O N —I s some th ing tha t every cook
also i n mea t cook ery to a shee t of pu ff pas te should s tudy F oo d s c oo k ed i n d i fferen t ways .
,

spread wi th a salpi c on of fi sh forcemea t c ray ,


diges t i n di ff eren t ti mes the fo l lowing tabl e i s ,

fi sh tai l s eel l ivers oys ters a n d mush rooms


, , ,
me d ically correc t .

ano ther shee t i s l ai d o n top e d ges pinched to ,


A T A B L E S H O W ING T H E T I M E R E Q U I R E D
ge th er brushed over w i th egg wash baked
, ,
T O D I G E S T T H E D I F F E R E NT F O O D S
se rved in s l ices twice as l ong as wid e on a folded ,
W H E N CO O K E D I N D I FF E R E N T
n apkin .
WAY S
DAT E S— The frui t of the pa l m tree ; th e frui t i n
.

E E
i ts g reen s ta te i s l ike a so f t green pul p ; when II S
the t ree i s i n flower th e n a tive Arabs bore in to Po r k s t e ak w . b ro i le d 3 15
-


,

the s te m and d raw the sap which they cal l


u
fa t and roas te d 5 15
,
rec en tly sal te d ra w 3
-
00
pal m milk an d ferme n t i t i n to win e m uch the —
, ,
s t e we d 3 oo
same as we draw the syrup from the maple tree b ro i le d —
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
3 15
and conver t i t i n to sugar D ates m ay be sub .
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 fr i e d 4
—1 5

0 0

sti tu ted for figs in cakes They mak e a p re t ty .


0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 b o i le d 4 30
2—
0

show on the frui t stand wi th s l ices of angelica ; roas te d 18

2—
i t
al so open ed and th e s ton e removed and in i ts , 30
b o i le d

2 —2 5
place a p iece of waln u t the da te then ro ll ed i n
2—
,

powdere d sugar G CO S e roas te d 30


f r i ca s see d 2 —
,

45
t b o i le d —
t t

D AT E PU DD I N G c u e p o u n d o f chopped beef -

roas t e d 4—
t
4 oo .

sue t pound of s toned da tes I 4 Ou n de s o f ‘

oo

, , 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

grated bread 1 % ounces of b ak ing po w der 1 2 Du cks t ame roa s t e d 4 00


roas te d 4 —
, ,
,

ounces o f flou r one grated nu tmeg t wo eggs wil d 30


1—
, ,

and en ough m ilk to m ake e m ed iu m m ix ture S ou p b arle y


, b oiled 30
,
b ean —
3 oo
pou red i n to mo l ds s teamed three h ou rs ; se rv ed —
,
ch i c k en 3 30
wi th win e sauce .

mut t on 3 30
-

D A U B E — N ame given t o a s t r o n g mea t season ing o y s te r O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O



3 30
of sal t pow d e red herb s peppe r and spices ;
, , b ee f v e g e t a b l e s a n d
, b rea d —
4 00
use d t o r o l l s trips of l arding pork i n p r i o r t o i n
'

marro w b ones —
4 10
P i g s f ee t souse d

I éoo
s e t ti n
g T h e mea t l arded and daubed i s name d
.
,


“ " T r ip e 1 00
bee f a l a daube .

B ra i n s an i mal i —45
DA UPH IN E —A F rench term app l i ed to a cake
, O O O O O O O O


O O O O O O O O O O O O
'

S p inal m arro w a n i m a l , 2 40
2—
c c c c c c c c c c c c c

of the dou g hnu t varie ty that h as j e ll y i n t h e Li v er ( bee f) f re sh


, . b ro i le d 00
74 T H E C U L I N ARY H ANDB O O K .

Heart ( animal ), 4 oo the m i n a sau toi r pou r ove r some rich ch icken
,

C ar t i la g e —
4 15 s tock a n d a l i ttle mel te d bu t ter place the cover ,

T en d on 5 50
-

on and reduce to a gla ze ar range a l i t tl e r i s s o t o


wa r m e d 2 —
,
Hash mea t a n d v e g e t a b les
, . 30
a t each e n d of the serving d ish pl ace the dol mas
S ausa g e f resh b ro i le d —
3 20
,
,

2—
i n the cen tre an d pour the glaze over
G elat i ne
.

30
C heese o l d s tro n g ra w —
3 30 D O U G H B I R D S— Are p l en tiful on th e coasts

. ,

G reen corn b o i le d 3 is they are abou t 1 % pound s i n weigh t when ,

beans —
3 45 i n pri me con d i ti on have a bill l ike a snipe are , ,

B eans p o d
-
2 30
,
del ici ous e at i ng b roiled roas ted or i n a sal m i s , .

P arsn i p s
-
2 30
P o t a toes roas t e d 2 —3 0 D UC KS AND D U C KL I N G S —Tha t is the dome s
b ak ed 2 —
30
tic ones are i n season al l th e year r o u n d th e
, ,

b o il e d 2—3 0 duckling bein g in i ts bes t for m abou t J un e .

2—
Ca b b a g e raw 30 B O I L E D D U C K PA R SLEY S AU CE — D uck s
w i t h vine g a r 2 —
00
,

singed a n d d rawn secon d j oin t of wings and



4 30
,

fee t re moved washed fi lled wi th a s tu ff ing o f


, ,

Carro ts 3 13
-

— d ry breadcru mb s m ixe d wi th sal t peppe r ,


T urn i p s w l i i t e , . . 3 30
choppe d parsley n u t meg and grated l emon r in d
,

, ,
B ee ts 3 45
-

— t russed then si mme re d t il l ten d er i n season ed


. .

B rea d c or n b ak ed 3 15
,


.

B rea d whea t f r e s h . 3 30
whi te s toc k ; served wi th parsley sauce .

, ,

A p p les s w ee t mello w I —3 0 B ON E D S T UF F E D D U C K WI T H A S PI C

, ,

sour ,
2 oo T wo duck s si nge d spli t d own the backs bon ed , , ,
2 —50
l aid ou t fl a t s k i n si d e d own seasoned wi th sal t
b o i le d 2 — 00
,

pepper an d n u tmeg on e of t he m sp read wi th


, ,

2—
,
ra w 15
f orcemeat the mea t o f the o ther placed on t op
, ,
E ggs , fre sh 2 -00

wh i p p e d I—3 o sk i n then d rawn toge ther se wn th en ei the r , ,

roas te d 2—15
roas ted o r b raise d till tende r ta k en u p p ressed , ,

so f t b o i l e d 3 —
oo be t ween t wo board s til l col d t ri m me d and ,


3 30 gl azed ; s e rved i n sl ices wi th aspic .


fr l e d 3 30 R O AST D UC K O R AN G E S AU CE — Ducks
2—
,

C u s t ar d ba k ed 45 singe d a n d d ra w n ; fi lled wi th a s tu ffi ng m a d e of
C o d fis h ,c u r e d ( d r y) b o il e d 2 -
00
dry b read cru mbs blanched minced on ion s
i —
.

T rout s al m on ( f resh ) u
3o
,

fr i e d 1—
choppe d parsl ey sal t pepper n u t meg a n d a
, , ,
30
B ass . s tr i p e d b ro i le d —
3 oo
sou r appl e grated ; t russ s tea m t il l fi rm an d ,

F loun d e r fr i e d —
3 30
plump ( abou t h al f an hou r ) then roas t and bas t e
C a t fish 3 30
- till b rown and tender ; serve d wi th sauce made
S al m on sal t e d .
b o il e d —
4 oo o f fi n el y minced on i on an d bacon f ried slowly
,

O y s ters f resh r aw 2 — t ill tende r ; a d d th em t o a rich poul try gravy


. 55
o as te d 3
-
15
con tai n ing por t win e an d the g rated rind and
s t e we d —
3 ,o
1—
j uice of an orange
b ro i le d
.

Ven i son s t ea k . 35
P i g ( suc k l i n g ) roas te d 2 —30
R OA ST D U C K W I T H PE AS H AN OVER ,

La m b f resh ,
b ro i l e d 2 —
39 S AU CE — D uc k s singed d rawn and washe d , ,

B ee f f re sh lean ( d r y ) roas te d —
3 33 fi lled wi th a s tu ffi ng ma d e of d r y breadcrumbs
, , , ,

B ee f ( w i th mus tar d ) b o il e d 3
-
I O m i nced frie d on ion s a n d bacon al so th e hear t ,

B ee f ( w i th sal t onl y)

3 36 and l i ver of th e ducks choppe d p arsley sal t
B ee f fr i e d —
4 00
, , ,

— pepper and sage ; truss s team hal f an hou r , ,


B ee f f resh lean ( rar e ) roas t e d 3 00
— then roas t a n d bas te ti ll b rown and tender ;
, , ,

B ee f s tea k b ro i le d 3 00

M ut t on f res h —
3 oo
serve wi th g reen peas a t on e e nd o f th e dish

.

b o i le d 3 oo
and H an over sauce a t th e o ther mad e a s f o l ,


3 15 l o ws : poul try l ivers boil ed th en rubbed th rough ,

b ro i l e d —
4 oo a si eve added to a V é l o u té or c ream sauce sea
, ,

fr i e d —
4 30 s o n e d wi th l e mon j uice and Cayen n e pepper .


D I N D ON I s the French word f o r tu rkey ; din “
B R O ILED D U C KLI N G WIT H D EVI LL E D
d o n n e a u x i s the F rench word fo r th e S p ring B U T T E R —D u c k l ing singed second j oi n t o f ,

turkey used for b roil ing weigh ing 4 to 6 pounds ,


.
win g re mov ed spl i t d o wn the bac k d rawn
, , ,

D OLM AS —A term applied to leaves of cabbage b reas tbone re moved l aid ou t fl a t season ed wi th , ,

parboile d con tain ing bal l s of forcemea t a n d


,
,
sal t a n d peppe r slowl y g ri l l ed t i l l don e a n d
,

serve d gen erally wi th r i s s o to T ak e 5 0 cabbage .


brown ; served on a sl ice of toast wi th devil led ,

leaves boi l the m f o r ten m i nu tes d rain make


,
, ,
bu t ter sp read ove r th e bi rd garn ish wi th cress ,

5 0 ball s of forcemeat si ze of a wa l nu t pl ace i n ,


and l emon D ev illed bu t te r ; t o each fou r
cen tre of the l eaf wrap the l eaf around arrange , ,
ounces of b u t te r work i n a l e ve l teaspoon fu l of
T H E C U LIN A R Y H ANDB OOK .
75

Cayenne pepper and ha l f a teaspoon ful o f bl ac k , s t raine r ove r the ducks i n an o ther sau toi r si m ,

of a teaspoon f u l each o f g ro u n d g in g e r a n d mere d til l tender ; se rved garn i she d wi th slices


c u rry powde r and a l i t tl e fi ne l y choppe d che rvil
, o f f ri e d h o miny .

o r parsley .
S AU TE O F D UC K WI TH C H E ST N UTS
S A U T E OF D U C K WITH O LIV E S —D ucks D u c k s singed d ra wn a n d washed s teamed for
, ,

singed d rawn washe d and s teamed fo r hal f an


, , half an hou r th en cu t in to j oin ts seasoned wi th
, ,

hour taken up seasoned wi th sal t and peppe r


, , , sal t and pepper pow d e re d sage a n d thy me , ,

brushe d wi th mel te d b u t te r t h en roll e d i n fl ou r , , rolled i n flou r fried b rown wi th bacon fat tak en
, ,

quic k l y browne d a n d baste d i n ho t oven taken , up a n d drain e d then pu t i n to a brown sauce to ,

u p c u t in to por tion s ; l i t tle minced onion l igh tly


, ge ther wi th the mi nced gi b le ts and some roas te d
fried i n b u t ter flour ad d e d to f or m a roux , , an d peel e d ches tnu ts si mme r til l ten d e r fi n i sh , ,

mois tene d wi th poul t ry s toc k boiled up and , wi th por t wine ; serve d garn ishe d wi th the ches t
s k i m me d d ucks th en a d d ed al so halves of
, , n u ts and a fancy c rou ton .

s tone d ol ives si m mere d t il l d uck s are ten d e r


, ,
S ALPI C ON O F D U C K IN C ASES —Col d b rai sed
sauce season ed and fi n i shed wi th l i t tle orange d uc k a n d some of the sauce the d uck cu t i n to ,

j u ice a n d por t wi ne ; serve d garni shed wi t h smal l n eat pieces wi th a few mu sh rooms r e ,

c rou ton s .

heated i n the sauce ; se rve d i n fancy paper


S T EWE D D U C KS WI T H G R EEN PEAS cases on l ace paper .

D ucks si n ged d rawn a n d wash e d l igh tl y bu t


C U R R Y O F D U C K W I T H RIC E —D ucks singed
, ,

quickl y brown e d i n oven tak en u p an d c u t i n ,


,

d rawn and washed s teame d for hal f an hou r


por tions smal l p ieces o f bacon f rie d wi th so m e
,
, ,

small cu t spri ng on ion s ; when b ro wn flou r taken u p j oin ted rubbed wi th c urry po wde r
, , ,
,

a d d ed to for m a roux moi s tene d wi th poul t ry roll ed i n flour ; oni on s sliced and fried a l igh t
,

s toc k boile d up a n d sk i m me d d uc k s then a d d e d b rown i n bu t ter taken up j oin ts then fried i n , ,


, , ,

wi th a fe w sprigs of green m in t si m mere d til l the same bu t ter on ions then re turned flour , ,
,

ten d er m i n t re move d season ed wi t h sal t and a d ded shook toge ther moi stene d wi th poul try
, ,
, ,

pepper ; served wi th a crou ton a t ends o f d ish s toc k season e d wi th sal t peppe r c u r ry po w d er
, , ,
,

g reen peas a t si d es .
gra ted g reen apple the j u ice a n d g rate d rind of ,

B R AI S ED D U C K WI T H VEG E TAB LE S a n o r a n ge
'

sim mere d til l ten d e r duck then


, ,

Duc k s singe d d rawn a n d washe d b r a s i e r e l in ed taken u p in to ano ther saucepan the sauce ,
, ,

wi th thi n sl ices of fa t bacon on wh ich i s place d s trained ove r i t ; se rve d garn i shed wi th smal l
,

slices o f on ion a n d tu rn ip car ro t a n d pieces o f mol d s of d ry boiled rice .

S T EWED D U C K WIT H T U R N IPS — D ucks


,

celery a fe w cloves bay leaves whole peppers


, , ,

a n d some sage l eaves ; ducks a rrange d on top singe d drawn and washed steame d f o r hal f an
, ,

moi s ten e d wi th whi te s tock and the j uice of a hou r ta k en up rolled i n flou r f ri ed whol e i n
, , ,

lemon wi th i ts gra ted rind l i d pu t on braised , ,


bu t ter ta k en up and cu t i n to por tion s ; l arge
,

a n d b as te d i n oven till b rown a n d tender ducks ,


bal l s of tu rn i p fried i n bu t ter taken u p a n d ,

then tak en up the b raise strained a n d ski mme d


, ,
pl aced wi th the d uc k ; i n the remai ning bu t ter
pou red over the duc k s i n servin g pan ; j ul ienn e i s then fried some m ince d sha l lo t s wi th sage
vege tables sau teed a n d seasone d ; se rve d por ,
and thy m e l eaves flour adde d to form a roux , ,

tion s of d uc k wi th sauce ove r garn ished w i th ,


mois ten e d wi th poul try s tock boiled up and ,

c rou ton s a t ends of dish and the j ul ienne v e ge skim med s traine d over the ducks and turn ips
, ,

tables a t the side s .


wh ich are then si m mere d till ten der ; served
S ALM I S O F D U C K I N C RO U STAD E — N ea t garn ish ed wi th the turn ips and crou ton s .

shaped s l ices of co l d duck made hot i n a t h ic k B R AI SED D U C K WI T H S AU E R KR AU T


M ad eira sauce to wh ich i s ad d e d sl ices o f m ush
, Ducks singed d rawn and washed then t russed, , ,

rooms a n d call ops o f sal t pork tha t have been arrange d i n b r a s i e r e wi th carro ts on i on s tuck ,

fri ed toge ther th e sauce to be seasoned wi th


, wi th cloves cel ery an d parsley mois tened wi th
, ,

powde re d sage and orange j uice ; se rved in pas te seasone d whi te s tock cove re d wi th bu t tered ,

c rousta d e cases on l ace pape r , . pape r l id pu t on braise d t ill ten d e r and gl az y


, , ,

S ALM I S O F D U C K WI T H F R I E D H O M INY t ak en up b raise st rained and sk i m med d ucks


, ,

D uck s si nged drawn an d washed season ed, , cu t i n to por ti on s a n d the b rai se s t rained over
wi th sal t a n d peppe r flou re d roas ted a n d bas te d , , them S auerkrau t well washe d pu t i n a sau toi r
.
,

til l brown a n d f ro thy taken up a n d c u t i n to por . wi th a piece of b acon a piece of smal l bologna , ,

tions ; i n the mean ti me the t ri m mings o f th e c arro t on ion and parsley moi s ten e d wi th some
, ,

bi rds are sau teed in ol i ve oil wi th m inced sh al l f a t an d broth from th e s toc k po t s te wed slowl y ,

lots chives th yme and bay l eaves then mois t


, , , fo r t wo h ours then t a k en up and d rai ne d ; v e ge
,

ene d wi th whi te wine and reduced ; e q ual quan tabl e s th rown away bacon an d sausage cu t i n ,

ti ties of B iga rad e and E spagnol e sauce then sl ices ; served por tion s of duck flanked wi th th e
,

a d d e d wi t h a fe w m inced mush rooms the whol e , the k rau t and garn ished wi th th e bacon and

boi l ed up and ski m med ; poured th rough a sausage .


76 T HE C U L I N A R Y H A ND B OO K .

FIL L E T S O F D UC KL IN G M A CE D OI N E ,
parsley and bay l eav e s ; when tender taken up ,

D uckl ing s singed d rawn and washed then a n d cu t i n to portion s the b ro th reduced to a ,
, ,

s teame d for t en m in u tes to pl um p the m t a k en ,


hal f gla ze wi th the addi ti on of some V é l o u t é
up cooled cu t i n to fou r fi ll e ts t h e bac kbon e s
, , ,
sauce d ried g re e n p eas boiled wi th a fe w sprigs
,

then roas te d wi th vege tabl es ; wh en brown ,


of m in t and a l i t tl e sugar ; when don e rubbed ,

mois tened wi th B igarade sauce boi l e d u p and ,


th rough a si eve th en m ixed to a s ti ff con sis t ,

s train e d over a cooke d m ace d oin e of veg e tabl es ,


ency wi th th e reduce d sauce ; se rve th e d uck
the fi lle ts seasoned wi th sa l t peppe r p owdere d , ,
i n por tion s m asked wi th th e peas pu ree .

sage a n d thyme rol led i n fl our arrange d i n , ,


S T U FFED D U C K I T AL IAN S A U C E — D uck s ,

bu t te re d bak in g pan roas ted and b a s ted t il l ,


sin g e d d rawn wash ed fille d wi th a m i x tu re o f
, , ,

b rown a n d f ro thy ; served on a c rou ton garn i she d b readc ru mbs m ix e d w i th small pieces o f f ried
wi th the m ace d oin e i n sauc e . l iver an d bacon thyme tru ffl es season e d wi th , , ,

F R IED F I L L E T S O F D U C KL I N G S A UC E ,
sal t peppe r an d powdered sage bound wi t h
, ,

B IGARAD E — D uck l ings prepared as in th e pre '


eg g y ol k s trusse d s teame d for hal f an h ou r
, , ,

ce d ing bu t i n s tead of roastin g fri e d a gol d en


, ,
taken up roll ed i n fl our arran ged i n bu t tered
, ,

color w i th bu t ter ; se rv ed on toas t wi th B igarad e bak in g pan roas ted a n d bas ted til l ten d e r ;
,

sauce poured over garn i shed w i th wa te rc ress , .


serv e d i n p or tion s w i th th e s tu flEi n g under and ,

ROAS T S P R I N G D UCK APPLE S AU C E I ta l ian sauce ( b rown ) poured over .

SC A L L O P E D D U C KS L IV E R S —L ivers sl iced
,
'
Young d uck s singed d rawn wash ed an d trussed , , ,
,

s teame d for fi ve minu tes t aken up seasoned , , ,


season ed wi th sal t pepper a nd m ixed spices , ,

rol l ed i n flou r arranged i n b ak in g p an r oas ted


, ,
sau teed in bu t ter wi th a few m inced shal lots
and bas ted t il l d one ; served i n p or tion s wi th and mush room s chopped parsl ey an d a m inced ,

u nswee tened s t e w ed app l e s tha t h av e be en clov e of garl ic pou r o ff th e remai n ing bu t ter
, ,

rubbe d th rough a sieve .


a d d a few gra ted b readcrumb s mois ten l igh tl y ,

S TU FF E D D U C KLIN G O RANG E S AU C E ,
wi th B igara d e sauce fi l l i n to deep ova l or scal ,

D uc k li ngs singe d d rawn washed fi ll ed wi th a lop d ish es o r shell s sprinkle w i th si f ted ,


, , ,

s tu ff ing composed of fresh g ra ted b re adcru mb s c rumbs baste wi th bu t te r b rown o ff th e top


, ,
,

gra te d appl e and l e mon rin d season ed w i th and ser v e .

B R O C H E TT E O F D UC KS L I V E R S — Live rs
,

sa l t peppe r ch opped p arsl ey a n d a l i t tl e s a ge


, ,
,

trussed th en s teamed for ten mi n u tes arra n ged S l iced season ed wi th sal t pepper and m i xed
, ,
, ,

i n a bak in g pan d redged w i th fl ou r roas te d , ,


spice s l igh tly sau teed wi th bu t te r then run on
, ,

and bas ted til l done ; se rved wi th a brown sauc e a skewer al te rn a tely wi th thi n sl ices o f par
m ade i n the pan they we re roas ted in fl avo red ,
boi l ed bacon ; wh en sk ewer i s ful l rol led i n ,

wi th gra te d sou r orange rind an d i ts j uice .


mel ted bu t ter th en i n sif ted b rea d cru mbs
, ,

S AU T E O F D U C K WIT H N O OD L E S — D uc k s b roiled til l don e ; served on a s tri p of toas t


singed drawn wash ed and t russed s te amed .
wi th H anove r sauce a t th e sides garn i shed ,
, ,

for h al f an h ou r t aken up and cu t i n to por ti on s


,
wi th c ress an d l emon .

seasoned wi th sal t peppe r a n d powdered s a ge , .


STEWED D U CK S G I B L E T S IN B O R D E R ’

roll ed i n fl our fri ed i n b u t te r p l aced i n a


, ,
L ivers a n d hear ts sl iced and sau teed wi th bu t
sau toi r d re d ge d wi th fl ou r moi s tened wi th thin
, ,
te r gi z z ar d s sl iced an d si m mered i n wh i te
,

B igarade sauce si m mered t il l ten d er ; n oo d l es s eason ed s tock ti ll ten d er then taken up and ,
,

boiled t il l done ta k en u p an d d rained th en , ,


drain ed ; hear ts l ivers and gi z zards then mi xe d
,

mi xed wi th a l i t tl e m inced chervil an d the ,


i n to a mu sh roo m sauce ; si m me red til l don e ;
duc k s gibl e ts m i nced and sau teed ; serve d the

,
fan cy b orde r of m ash ed po ta toes arranged on
duck i n por tion s fl anked wi th th e n oodles .
serving d ish on e i nch f ro m th e edge gible ts ,

ST E WED D U C K WI T H ST U FF E D T O M A pl aced i n th e cen t re wi th green peas around ,

T O E S —D uck s singed drawn an d wash ed , ,


the po ta toe s .

fi l l ed wi th a s tuff in g composed of grated b read D U C KS G I B L E T S O U P M a d e the sam e as


c ru mbs m ixed wi th minced ham m ush rooms , ,


ch icken gible t soup ( which see ) subs ti tu ting th e
anch ovie s sh al lo t pa rsley sa l t and pepper
, , , ,
duck s gible ts’
.

t russed s teamed for ten m inu tes arranged i n


, ,
D U XE L L E S — N am e of a very th ick sauce gen
'

sau toi r moi stened wi t h s tock an d whi te win e


, , e r a l l y used to coa t cu t l e ts be f ore b reading
l id pu t on si m mered til l don e ; served wi th the
,
them composed of
,
each ch oppe d parsl ey
s tuff in g unde r each por ti on garn ished wi th ,
and m inced fri e d sh allo ts and m ince d sau
s tu ff ed sma ll to ma toes toma to sauce poured ,
teed m u s h o o m s al l worked i n to a th ic k V él o u t é
,

around . sauce ; o r i n s tead of m inced mush roo ms ,

ST E W E D D U C K WI T H PU R E E O F P E AS n eed onl y be used an d the o ther b e m inced


D uc k s singed d ra wn wash e d an d t r ussed
, , ,
cooked h am o r tongue .

D U T C H S AU C E — An o the r n ame f o r H o l l a n
'

s tewed t i l l t e n d e r i n whi te s tock con tain ing a


.

fe w c l oves a C love o f garl ic on ion thyme


, , , ,
dai se sauce wh ich i s made b y t ak ing h al f a
,
T H E C U L IN A RY H AN D B O OK .
77

cupfu l o f whi te sauce and work ing in to i t a d rai ned , breaded , fried ; served wi th shri mp
smal l piece of glace h a l f a cup f ul of me l ted sauce .

M A T EL O T E O F E E LS —R iver eel s sk inne d


,

bu t te r 6 yo l ks o f eggs b ringin g i t slowly to a


, , ,

cus ta rd l ike th ic k n ess over a m e d iu m fi re then


-
cu t i n to fi nge r l eng th s season e d wi th sa l t a n d , ,

season ing i t wi th sal t n u tm eg an d l emon j uice peppe r rol led i n fl ou r l ig h t l y fried i n bu t ter
,
.
, , ,

E CAR L AT E — A F rench ter m often seen on bil l s taken up add t o th e bu t ter they are fried i n ,


of fare as a l e c a r l a t e I t i s used to sign ify

some wh i te or red win e thyme marj oram fi sh
. , , ,

tha t th e food i s red and i ts natura l co l or p re s tock red pepper a fe w clov e s and m inced
, , ,

served .
shal l o ts rapidl y red uce ; t hen i s ad d ed V é l o u t é ,

E C LA I R S — A h o ll ow form made of

choux sauce boiled up sk i m med s t rain ed ove r the , , ,

pas te tha t i s fi lled wi th pastry cream wi th the eel s i n ano the r sau toi r fi ni shed by adding some ,
,

top gene rall y c oa ted wi th choco l a t e glaze bu t ton mush rooms blanched oys ters o r mussel s . , ,

E E L S —A re of t wo kinds the rive r o r fresh wa te r


an d season wi th lemon j uice ; served g arn ished
,

eel an d the sea or con ger ee l T he flesh of wi th fanc y c ro u ton s .

F RI C AS SEE OF E E LS — R ive r eels skin ned


.
,

the river eel is swee t fi n e grain ed and dain ty ; ,


,

tha t of the sea ee l i s coarse grained and o i l y cu t in to fi nger l eng ths pu t to boil in fi sh stock ,

they mus t al ways be ski nn ed be f ore using : to wi th a l i t tl e whi te win e an on ion s tuck wi th ,

c l ove s a fe w m inced shallo ts bunch o f herbs


d o wh ich a l i t tle silver san d i s u se d t o h o l d th e , , ,

the ee l by the h ead Wi th a sh arp kn i f e m ake sal t and wh ole peppers ; when d one ta k en up
. ,

a ci rcl e roun d the n eck force d own the sk in an i n to a sau toi r th e l iquor red uce d then strained
,
, ,

inch or so and then wi th a steady pul l the skin


,
in to a th ick Hollandaise sauce con tain ing ,

will stri p o ff easil y chopped pars l ey ; eel s place d in to the fi n ishe d


ST E WED E E LS L OND O N S TY LE—A mos t
.

sauce ; served wi th a garn ish of fancy c r o fito n s .

si mp l e and dain ty di sh made by c u t ti n g river B R OC H ET T E OF E EL S T A R T A R S AUC E


, ,

eel s in t o t wo inch l ength s boi l in g the m t il l


- F or recipe see headi n g of B roche t te , , .

don e i n a parsley bu t te r sauce seasone d wi th B R AI SED E E L S A LL EM AN D E S AU C E ,

sal t pepper an d a l i t t l e v inegar ; served in soup


, River eel s sk inn ed an d cu t in to fi nge r l eng ths ,

pl a tes wi th b read an d bu t te r spri nkled wi th sa l t allowed to rem ain wi th the .


,

G R I L LED E ELS L ON D O N S TYL E —River sal t on fo r half an hou r then wash ed i n cold
, ,

eel s skinn ed coiled roun d a n d kep t i n shape


,
wa te r d rai ne d arranged i n a sau toi r wi th a , ,

wi th a smal l skewer d ipped in to b ea ten eggs l i t t l e b ut te r pars l ey who l e peppers s l ices of


, , , , ,

th en coa ted wi th a mix tu re of g ra ted bread


:

l e mon mince d shal l o ts sal t pepper n u tmeg , , , ,

crumbs l e mon rind ch opped pars l ey and


,
an d a fe w sl ices of b acon moistened wi th a l i t
, ,

thym e l eaves sal t peppe r n u tmeg ; broi l ed a


,
tl e fi sh stock an d b raised ti l l don e taken up i n
, , ,

gol d en color and se rv ed wi th horseradi sh wi th to ano ther sau toi r b raise s trained and ski mmed , , ,

the op tion of tar tar sauce then m i xed i n to Al l emande sauce wh ich i s
.

B AKED E E L S L OND ON STY L E R ive r ee l s— ,


poured ove r th e ee l s ; served wi th them garn ,

i s h e d wi th c r o fit o n s "

sk in ne d coile d round pinn ed i n to shape wi th .

a skewer coa ted wi th D U x e l l e s sauce rolled B R O I LED B ONE D EE L S —R ive r eels skinned
, ,
'
, ,

i n b rea d crumbs arranged i n a bu t tered bak ing ,


an d cu t in to fi nge r l ength s spl i t d own th e back ,

pan the inside of the coi l fi l l ed wi th a p i ping


, an d the bon e re mov ed seasoned wi th sal t pep , ,

of fi sh force mea t ; b rushed wi th bu t ter baked a per an d n u tm eg d ippe d i n bea ten egg th en , , ,

go l den b rown ; served wi th Ad mi ra l sauce rol led i n si f te d brea d crumbs season e d wi th . ,

B OILE D EE LS M AI T R E D H O T E L—R iver ,


powdered h erbs an d pepper b roiled and bas ted ’
,

ee l s cu t in to finger l eng ths boiled fi fteen m i n till don e ; se rved on toas t wi th anchovy bu t ter
,
,

u tes in sal ted wate r ; serve d wi th a border of garn ish e d wi th l e mon .

m ash ed po ta toes wi th some M ai tre D H o te l ORLY O F EE LS —Prepared and bon ed as i n


,

bu t te r poured over the ee l s th e p rece d ing bu t in s tead of b read ing they are
.
_ ,

R OA S T EELS ANC H OVY B UT T E R — Rive r


.

, d ippe d in ba t ter fried and served wi th rings of , ,

eel s sk inned c oil ed fas tene d wi th ske wers c ri sp fried on ions


'

.
, , ,

seasone d wi th sal t and pepper wrapped in bu t


E E L S ALAD — R i v er ee l s skinned an d boned cu t ,
,
t a red paper roas ted i n m ediu m oven t il l don e
,
i n t o sh or t fi nger l eng ths l aid in sal ted water ,
,
taken up paper removed spread wi th anch ovy
,
for an h our th en taken u p and wipe d d r y ar
,
, ,
bu t te r ; served very ho t wi th a sprig of pars l ey range d i n b a k ing pan sprin k led wi th sal t pep , ,
and sl ice of l emon i n side the coi l ed ee l pe r and m i xed ground spices moi s ten e d wi th .

FR IE D E E LS S H R I M P S AU CE — Rive r ee l s, wa ter an d a l i t tle v i n egar addin g a l i t tle d i s ,

sk in ned c u t in to fi nge r l eng ths ; mari nade th e m


, solve d gela tine bake til l done an d gla zy ; served ,

ove r n igh t i n a m ix tu re of vin ega r gra ted l emon col d m asked wi th ravigo te o r tartar s auce , ,

rind sal t pepper an d thy me then taken up


, , garn ishe d wi th s l ices of cucumbe r , , .
78 THE C U LI N ARY H ANDB O OK .

R OA S T S T UF FED C ON GE R E E L AD MI R AL ,
mel te d bu t ter d ri pped over the eggs p l aced i n ,

S A U C E —Por ti on cu t s ski n n e d an d bon e d , oven ti ll se t .

l aid fo r t wo hours i n sal te d vin egar wi th S C R AM B LE D EG G S —F Ou r fif th s broken eggs -

chopped swee t h erbs t ake n u p fi lled wi th v ea l , ,


( n o t b ea ten ) on e fi f th c ream season ed wi th sal t
, ,

s tu ffi n g t i ed round wi th st ring rolled i n fl ou r


, , , and l i t tl e mel te d bu t te r l a d le f ul ( ma d e to hold
,

arranged i n bak ing pan roas t ed and bas ted til l , th ree eggs ) poured i n to ho t bu t tere d f r y i ng pan ,

d on e ; se rved wi th Ad mi ral sauce .


s tirred abou t or shook till softly se t ; se rve d
B OI L ED C ONG E R E E L ALLE M AND E , ei the r pl ain or on b u t tered toas t .

S AU CE — Por t ion cu ts s k inn ed an d bone d t ie d , P OA C H ED EG G S — Eg g s removed fro m shell ,

roun d wi th s t ring bl anche d t h en pl aced i n , , d ropped in to si m me rin g sal ted wa te r con tain
sau toi r wi th bay l eaves on ion s parsley wh o l e , , , in g a dash of v i negar ; w hen se t t ak en up ,

peppers l i t tl e garl ic sa l t an d v in egar ; cove r


, , d rained ; served plain o r on bu t tered toas t .

wi th water si mme re d til l don e t ak en up and


C U R R IED E G G S — H ard b oil ed eggs wi th th ei r
, ,

d rain e d ; served wi th A llemande sauce ga rn ,


shell s re moved reheated i n a cu rry sauce m a d e
,
i s h e d wi th parsley and l emon .

from poul try s tock ; bed of rice i n cen t re


F R IE D C ON G E R E E L T A R TAR S AUC E ,
of di sh sprinkled wi th fi n el y chopped parsl ey ;
Por tion c u ts ski nned and boned s teamed for ,
wi th the back o f a spoon i nden tu res m ade to
ten min u tes then season ed wi th sal t and pep
,
recei ve the eggs ; served wi th the sauce poured
pe r breaded fried ; se rve d wi th T ar tar sauce
, , ,
around the base .

garn ishe d wi th parsley an d l e mon


ST UFFED E G G S —Hard boiled egg s wi th thei r
.

C U R R I ED C ONG E R E E L WI T H R I CE —Por
shell s re moved s p l i t l e n g t h wi s e yolks remove d
t ion c u ts s k i nne d and boned marinade d for an ,
, ,

and poun d ed wi th anch ovy m ea t a n d bu t te r


hou r i n sal t wa ter and v inegar tak en up , ,
,

rin sed i n c old wa ter wiped d ry season ed w i th fil led back in to the wh i tes smoo thed ove r d e c , ,
, ,

sal t and pepper ro l le d i n fl ou r fried wi th b u t ora ted an d se rved .

, ,

te r re move d in to a sau toi r ; minced on ion s


, ,
D E VILLE D E G G S — Hard boiled eggs wi th thei r
ch i ves and a cl ove o f garl ic f ri ed i n th e re main shel l s re moved spl i t i n halves l en g thwi se
, ,

ing bu t ter flour a d ded to for m a roux m ois t


, ,
d ipped i n beaten egg then i n oil sprin k led wi th , ,

en e d wi th fi sh s tock b rough t to the boi l and , sal t an d r e d peppe r arranged i n ba k ing pan on
,

sk im med then si m mered for h al f an h ou r ; th e


, a sh ee t of oiled paper th orough ly h ea ted ; ,

eel s spri nkl ed wi th c u r ry powder sauce , served on toas t wi th sauce D iabl e poured ove r ,

s trained ove r them si mm ered till don e fi n i shed , , i n to which h as been m ixed some B engal chu t
wi th cayen n e peppe r an d l emon j uice ; served n ey .

i n side a bor d e r of dry boil ed g rai n s o f rice .


M AS KED E GG S M AD E I R A S A U CE —H ard
,

E E L P O U T— I s a comb in ation of eel catfi sh and


-
, boiled eggs wi th the sh el l s rem oved coa ted ,

some o th er kind of fi sh ; b reeds i ts youn g al ive wi th ch ic k en forcemea t th en d ipped i n to bea ten ,

i n s t ea d o f wi th eggs ; i s more O f ten calle d the egg b ak ed ; serve d wi th M ad eira sauce pou red
,

“ ”
B U R B OT I t i s good boiled an d ser v ed wi t h
. ove r garn i shed wi th fancy c r o fit o n s
,
.

oys ter sauce


E G G R AR E B IT— Hard boi led eggs wi th the
.

E G G S — T ha t i s h en s eggs as mos t gen e ra ll y


'
,
shell s remove d cu t l eng th wise i n sl ic es ar
, ,

use d i n cookery ( o the r bi rd s eggs wil l be found ‘

ranged o u serving pla t te r seasone d w i th sal t ,

unde r thei r respec ti ve h ead i ngs ) are ver y and pepper covered wi th a mi x ture of grated
,

n u tri tious easily d iges ted a n d a re used i n a


, ,
cheese m i xed wi th bu t te r b rown ed o ff i n oven ; ,

mul ti t u de of way s b u t th e fo ll owing recipes ,


served ve ry ho t .

will be foun d t o be those mos t appl icabl e to


o rdinary h o tel res tauran t a n d club p at ron age M O LDE D E G G S PR OVE N CA LE S A UC E ,
, .

T imbale mol d s b ru sh e d wi th bu t ter b ot toms ‘

[ I nexperienced ho tel bu tchers have spoiled


,

sprin kl e d wi th m i nced f ri ed shall o t s eggs then


much mea t th rough th ei r b rin e b y u sin g th e eg g ,
,

tes t for s treng th th e tes t bein g t ha t when the b rok en i n a l i t tl e C réol e garn i ture place d
,
,
on top Baked till se t tu rne d ou t on servin g
bri n e wi l l floa t an egg i t i s j us t righ t I f h e .
.
,

d ish ; served wi th Proven c ale sauce poured over


u sed a po tato th e same si ze as an egg h e woul d
a n d aroun d
be more sure f o r a n e w l aid egg wi ll si nk to the .

E GG S A U G R A T I N —Sl ices o f hard boiled eggs


,

bo t to m of a b ri n e an d s tay th ere ; wh il e a bad ,

egg wil l floa t an d eve ry d ay s age t o th e egg ’


i n a g ra t in d i sh cove re d wi th wh i te sauce then ,

f ro m th e ne wl y l aid b rings i t m ore to th e su r spri n k l ed wi th cheese and sif ted b readcru mbs ,

face o f th e sa me s t reng th o f brin e M OR AL : . b aked and serv ed .

weigh an d m e asu re y our sal t sa l tpe tre and , E G G PAT T I E S —S mal l squares of hard boiled
wa te r ] ( see h ea d in g of b rine ) .
egg s m i xe d i n to a rich Supr eme sauce wi th a
S H I R R ED E G G S — Sh i rre d egg d ish bu t tered , f e w mush rooms fi ll ed i n to ho t pu ff pas te pa t ty
,

eggs b roken i n to i t t wo o r th ree d rop s of clear


, sh el l s .
80 T H E C U L IN AR Y H ANDB O OK .

'

SPAN I S H O M E LET F in el y S h red on ion s , sauce mak e h ot enclose w i th in t h e o m e l e t


,

mince d green peppers m ince d m ush roo m s


, ,

, , serv e wi th V é l o u t é sauce p oure d aro un d .

C R E OL E O M E LE T — Choppe d green peppe rs


_

sol i d t oma toes c u t i n smal l p ieces th e wh ol e ,


"

f r i e d i n b u t ter for fi ve m inu te s th en add some , onion s garlic okras a n d a l i t tl e boil e d ric e
, , ,

tomato sauce s eason wi th sal t a n d pepper t e


, ,
.
m ade ho t in th ick tom ato sauce enclose d wi thin ,

duce til l th ick enclose a spoon f ul wi th i n the


.
, the omele t an d spoonfuls served a t ends of the
,

om el e t ; when on the servin g d i sh pl ace a sp oon , omel e t on th e di sh .

fu l o f th e m i x ture a t each en d of t he omel e t and E G G PL AN T T U R KI S H STY L E — Pee l ed egg ,

g arn ish the to p w i th fancy s tri ps of P i m e n to e s plan t in sl ices sp rin k l ed wi th sal t ; a f te r having
,

i n oil . l aid a few m i nu tes wiped d ry then f ried a , ,

O M ELE T WIT H PAR S LEY—M i x fis o m e fin el y golden col or wi th bu t ter ; cold rare roas t bee f
ch oppe d p arsley peppe r an d sal t wi th the b ea t en ,
m inced fi ne wi th a very li t tl e on ion mi xe d wi th ,

eggs form an d serve


,
. a f e w sl ices of peel ed tom atoes c h a p p e d pars ,

O M E LE T WIT H T O M AT OE S — S tew fresh or l ey sal t a n d peppe r ; s tewed d own thic k gra ti n


"

, ,
.

c anned toma toes wi th a l i t tle bu t te r sugar sal t ,


di sh es bu t tere d b o t to m cover ed wi th th e egg ,
,

a n d peppe r to a th ic k pul p encl ose wi th in the


pla nt m ince n ex t th is covere d wi th more egg
, ,
,

o mel e t pou r toma to sauce around


, ,
plan t moi sten ed wi th r ich roas t beef g ravy
, ,

ba k ed half an h ou r an d served
OM ELET WI T H T OM AT O E D R I CE — Ta k e .

some boiled r ice a n d moi sten i t wi th reduce d F R I ED EG G PL AN T — Egg plan t peeled cu t i n ,


,

toma to sauce e n c l o s e w i th i n th e o mel e t an d


'
sl ices sp rinkled wi th sal t and allowe d to m arin
,
, ,

a d e for an hour then wiped d r y rolled in fl ou r


pour tom a to sauce around ,
, , ,

d i pped in to beaten eggs frie d a n d serve d


O M ELET WI T H OY S T E R S — S ca l d the oyste rs , .

B R O I L E D E G G PLAN T O N T O A ST — Pee l e d
,

cu t the m i n quar te rs pu t them i n to a rich oys ter ,

egg pl an t cu t i n sl ices sprin k le d wi th sal t a n d


sauce encl ose a spoon f ul wi thi n th e omele t ;
,
,

' '
all owe d to remain for an h ou r then wiped d ry
when on t h e serv ing d i s h p l ac e th ree whol e , ,

rol led i n flour then i n mel ted bu t te r b roiled


sca l de d oysters on top o f t h e om ele t p ou r some ,
, ,

an d basted ; se rved on bu t tere d toast


oy ster S auce ove r all an d sprinkle wi th parsley
.

ST U FFED EG G PLAN T — S mal l egg pl an t n o t


,

du s t
peeled cu t in hal ves l e n g th wi se part of cen tre
, ,
O M E LE T WI T H F R E NC H P E AS S i mm e r
scooped ou t t h e h a l ve s then frie d on the c u t
,
som e F rench peas i n re d uce d V é l o u t é sauce ti l l
s ide ; the scooped ou t par t m i xe d wi th some
thick ; place a spoon f ul wi th in the omele t a n d a
cooke d sa l t por k bu t ton mush room s m ince d
spoon f ul a t each en d of th e omel e t on th e se rv
, ,
.

shall ots ch opped chiv es a n d parsl ey fi lled i n to


, ,
in g d ish wi th c ream s a u c e p o u r e d around
the open ings piled h igh smoo thed over and
.
,
'

O M E LE T WI T H E G G PL AN T — C u t th e egg
’ , ,

bak ed .

pl an t in t o d ic e fry i t i n b u t ter ; when d on e a d d


E G G PLAN T F RITT E R S — Pee l ed egg plan t cu t


,

a l i t tl e mea t gla ze encl ose wi th in th e o mele t


i n sl ices l aid for an hou r wel l sprinkled wi th
,
,
and pou r some brown sauce around
sal t then wi pe d d ry d i ppe d i n ba t ter slowly
.

O M E LE T WI T H S PI N AC H — Be at some pu ree
, , ,

f r i e d i n ho t fa t ; serve d pl ai n as a vege tabl e or


of S pi nach wi th th e eggs season wi th sal t and ,
as an accompan im en t to m ea t .

pepper f orm a n d serve


E G G P LAN T WIT H C H E E S E “
, .

M ake th e -

O M E L ET WI T H S P R I N G V E GETAB LE S b roil ed egg p l an t on t oas t men tione d above ;


C u t a j ar d in iere or m ace d oi ne of vege tables when fi n i she d and on th e t oas t cover i t wi th a ,

( o r use can n ed macedoine ) boi l till t e n d e r d r a i n , , , sl ice of cheese place in ho t oven t il l cheese i s ,

moi s ten wi th a l i t tl e d e mi gla ze o r Supr eme -


m el ted a n d brown e d ; serve d a t once .

E G G P L AN T S T EWED — Peele d egg pl an t cu t


sauce encl ose wi th in t h e o mele t a n d decora te
,
'

the top o f th e o mele t wi th th e v e getab l es pou r ,


i n pi eces si z e of small eggs col d roas t beef or ,

som e o f th e s auce use d a round .

m u t ton cu t i n smal l pi eces an d m i xed in to a


O M EL E T W I T H A S PA R AG U S P O I N T S rich g r a v y w i th a min ced on ion an d peel ed to
.

T ake coo k e d asp a ragu s poin t s m a k e them ho t , ma toes brough t to th e boil egg pl an t then pu t
, ,

i n Alleman d e sauce encl ose wi th i n th e omele t , i n si mm ered till d on e th en serve d


, ,
.

and pou r som e o f th e sauce aroun d .


E N D IVE — A l so call e d C H I C O R Y — I S cooke d as
O M E LE T WI T H O L IVE S — T ake th e ol ives , a vege tabl e sam e a s s p i n ac h ; al so ma d e in to
s ton e th em sl ice th em in to fou r sl ices m ake
, , sala d s u sin g th e wh i te leaves ; d ressed wi th
,

them ho t in M a d ei ra sauc e enclose wi thi n the , French dressing .


omele t d ecorat e th e top o f th e omel e t wi th E PIG RA M M E— A t e r m u s e d i n cookery to den o te


o n e kind of mea t se rve d i n two f orm s on th e


S l ices Of ol ives-
a n d pou r some S oubise sauce ,

a roun d . s
same di sh such as t wo ch ops on e brea d ed a n d
, , ,

OM E L E T WI T H M I N CED C H I C KE N — Take frie d t h e othe r br o ile d ; se rve d res tin g on e ach


,

mince d c ooked ch ic k en moi s ten i t wi t h V é l o u t é , o ther S ee h eading of respec tive meat s


. .
TH E C U L I N ARY H ANDB OOK . 81

E SPAG N OL E — N ame of a s tock sauce used as ,


.
wh ipped cream s tewe d frui t or frui t marma ,

a basi s to for m m an y of the brown sauces ; lad e ; i f a f te r i t i s boile d i t i s poured in to cups


made by fryin g in a th ick bot tomed l arge sauce a n d se t , they are calle d Fa rin a cup cus ta r d s .

pan till bro wn h am veal and beef i n mea t a n d , , M a d e wi th gallon o f m il k pound of sugar , ,

bones ; carro ts on ions tu rn ips ce l ery and pars, , , pound of f arin a o f a poun d of bu t ter and
,

l ey ; flour then ad d ed to form a roux moistened ,


S i x yolks of eggs .

g raduall y wi th good b rown stock season ed wi th , FA R I N A F R I T T ER S T h e above mix tu re when -

thym e savory ma rj oram bay leaves c l oves


, , , , , boiled i s poured i n to a shall ow pan brushed
whol e peppers and whole all spice ; when boiled , wi th bu t ter ; wh en cold a n d fi rm cu t i n to slices ,

up ski m me d , then i s added a l ibera l quan ti ty


, d oubl e breaded fried ta k en -u p and rolle d in
, ,

of tomatoes toge the r wi th on e o r t wo o l d fowl s


, powdere d sugar ; serve d wi th frui t sauce .

or roas t poul try carcass es si mm e red slow l y for ,


F E N NE L — N ame o f a gar d en plan t es tee med as ,

severa l hou rs s trained ski mmed fi n ishe d wi th


, , , a flavori ng to boil e d sal mon a n d mac k ere l ; used
sherr y win e . “
i n making fennel sauce wh ich i s the same as "

EXTR A CT S —O r flavorin gs used i n the making


,

parsley sauce simpl y subs ti tu ting chopped


,

o f ice c reams j ell ies cakes puddings swee t, , , , fenn e l for parsley l eaves .

sauces e tc , can be m a d e much cheaper than


, .
F I G S— As seen i n our marke ts are both fresh and
buy i n g a t the s tores an d payin g for fancy l ab el s d ried ; th e fresh are u sed i n c o m p Ot e s and f o r
an d bo t tles ; the poin t i s to ob tain good oil s and p reserve s the d ri e d for cakes pud d ings ices
, , , ,

pure alcohol .
pastill es ; al so u sed as a d esse rt ei ther plain or
E XTRA CT O F C LOV E S —
,

F z oz s oil of cloves 1 . rol l e d i n powdered sugar .


,

pin t of alcohol m ix an d use , .


FI N AN C I E R E — N ame of both a sauc e and garn
EX T R A CT OF AN I SEED — I o z of oi l o f an ise .
,
i sh much used ; th e sauce i s com pose d as fol
,

1 pin t O f alcohol m i x and use , . l ows : on e pin t o f sherry win e wi th a chopped


E X T RA CT OF C INNAM ON — r o z oi l of c inn a .
tru ffle and a season in g of red pepper i s rapi d ly
mon 1 pin t of alcoh ol m i x an d use
, , .
boiled d own to hal f i ts volu me t h en i s a d ded ,

E X T R A C T O F B I T T E R AL M O ND — 2 o zs oil .
on e pin t o f espagn ole ; boile d agai n for fi ve
o f bi t ter al mond 1 pin t o f alcohol m i x a n d u se , , .
mi nu tes th en s t rain ed fo r use
, Fo r the garn .

“ ”
E XT R A CT O F L EM O N — 2 0 2 5 Oil of l emon 1 .
ish composi tion see hea d ing of ga rn ishes .

FINE H E R B S — Call e d by th e French “ fin e s


,

pi n t of alcohol m i x a n d u se , .

E X T R A C T OF WI N T E R G R E E N — r o z o i l o f
"
herbes ; i t i s a combina tion o f mince d S hallo ts
'

,
.

wi n tergre en 1 quar t of al cohol m i x and u


,
mush room s a n d parsley FIN E H E R B S .

S AU C E i s the i ngredien ts m ixed in to some


E XT R A C T OF S A R S APA R ILL A — 1 oz each o f

espagn ol e o r o the r b rown sauce


oil s of sassa f ras a n d W in te rgreen 1 quar t of a l
.

F I N N AN H AD D I E — I s th e n ame comm erciall y


,

coho l m i x a n d use
, . I

E X T R A C T O F VAN I L L A ozs of vanill a .


given t o sm o k e d h ad d ocks ( see ha d d ocks ) ; t hey
bean s 6 0 z s o f alcohol 1 2 o z s of wa ter ; c u t
.
'

.
are i mpor te d t o th i s coun t ry and sel l generall y
, ,

th e bean s smal l a n d bruise them pu t the m a t 1 0 cen t s pe r poun d .

i n wide mou thed bo t tles cove r wi th th e alco ,


B R OIL ED FI N NAN H AD D I E f Skinned soake d -
,

ho l and wa te r s teep f o r two weeks S hakin g i t


, ,
i n warm wate r f o r hal f an hour ta k en up and ,

up eve ry t wo da ys .
wiped d ry t h e backbone re moved from the
,

FA R I N A— A fi n e gran ular p r eparati onm ade from b on e side season ed wi th pepper b rushe d wi th
, ,

whea t Of t wo ki n d s whi te a n d grah am the l a t


.
,
bu t ter broiled and bas te d ; se rved very h o t
,
,

te r being use d as a b rea k f ast cereal the former ,


wi th a sauce compose d o f mel te d bu t ter con tai n ,

for puddings q u en ell es an d as a soup thicken


,
ing lemon j uice mustar d a n d chopped parsley , .

i ng. B OILED FIN NAN H ADD IE — Prepared as in


B AKED FA R IN A P U DD IN G —1 g a l l on of mil k ,
the prece d ing pu t to boil i n cold wa te r ( unless
, ,

1 pound of farin a o f a pou nd of suga r a , ,


very thick th ree or f ou r m inu tes boil ing i s suf
poun d of bu t ter 5 whole a n d 6 yol ks of eggs ; fic i e n t ) se rve d wi th M ai t re D H Ot e l bu t ter

.
, . 1

made b y b oi ling the m ilk a n d suga r toge ther ,


spread on th e fi sh garn ished wi th parsley , .

t hen sprinkl ing in th e farin a Sti rrin g con ti n u , B AKED FINNAN H ADDIE —Prepared as fo r
all y ti l l Smoo th si m mer ed for
'
o f an h ou r ,
, broil i ng arran ged i n bakin g pan moistened
, ,

t h e n i s ad d ed the bea ten eggs a n d bu t te r ; flav wi t h milk a n d m el te d bu tte r q uic k ly baked an d ,

ored to tas te ; poured in to bu t te red pudding ‘


baste d ; se rved wi th the sauce given for broiled .

pan s bak ed t il l se t ; se rved wi th a swee t or


,
'
F IN N AN H ADDI E D E LM ON IC O S T Y LE ,

win e sauce preserved fru i t o r c omp e te of


, ,
Prepare d as f o r broil in g th e fille ts then arranged ,

s tewed f rui t .
i n a s h a l l o w s au to i r moi s tened wi th c ream ,
'
,

B O I L E D FAR I N A P UDD I N G G eneral l y boile d fo r fi ve m inu tes l i t tl e M ad ei ra wine


'

, ,

s erve d col d wi th swee ten ed or flavored cream , then added boi l ed u p a g ain then i s s ti rred in
, ,
82 T H E _ CU L I N AR Y H AN D B O OK ..

l iai son o f egg yo l ks and crea m ; wh en thick F R A N G I PAN E — N ame given to a coo k ed cus
'

a
ened li k e thi n cus tard a l i t tl e m or e M a d eira

tar d cre am use d i u fi ll ing pu ff s ecl ai rs tar t , ,

win e a d d ed ; se rv ed very ho t i n a ch afin g d i sh le t tes pape r case s : f o r s o u fll e s open pies as .


, ,


FL AGE O LETS 7 A green haricot bean pu t up i n crea m pies e tc M a d e by boil ing ha l f a gal lon , .

o f m il k wi th O f a po u n d o f sugar then pour


cans b y the F re n ch a n d i mport e d to t h i s ,

coun try ; ma k e s a very pleasing garn ish are ing i t to 1 2 yol k s of eggs tha t h ave been beaten
,
a n d m ixed wi th V 2 a pound o f si f te d flour and
cheap th e bes t bei ng abou t
, a d ozen can s .

a l i t t l e crea m ; i t i s then re tu rne d to th e fi re .

F LANNE L C AKES A sor t o f pan c ake ; for


wi th 4 ounce s of bu t ter brough t j u s t to a boil
recipe see head in g of B a t ter , ,
,

remove d flavored and s train ed f o r use


.

F L O U N D E R S — A fl a t fi sh of the h al ibu t species


.
,
i

F R ANK F O R T S — N ame of a por k sausage th a t


bu t much small er i n pl e nt i f u l Suppl y v e ry

“ "
,
i s gen erall y serve d wi th sauer k rau t M ad e ,
.

o f ten fil l e t e d in f ac t gen erally used i n t h i s


,
of equal quan ti ti es o f l ean and f a t pork mince d _

coun try f o r fi ll e ts of sol es ; th e n am e fl o u n d er


fi n el y seasone d wi th 3 ounces o f m ixe d g roun d ,
sel d om appears on our bill s of fare h ence i ts
coriander see d s sal t nu t meg a n d pepper to ,

recipes will be fo und u n d e r tha t h e a d ing , ,

eve ry 8 pounds th e sausage s k i n s fi lle d i n th e


.
-
,

F O IE G R A S L i terally fa t l i ver i s made by


-

or d inary way then hung in a d r y cool pl ace


ta k in g th e l ivers o f f a t geese cooking the m til l wan ted
,
,

,
.

wi th swee t he rbs wi n e a n d bacon then pound ,


FRAPP E — A F rench wor d that sign ifi es a l iquor ,

ing i t rubbing i t th rough a fi n e S i eve th e


,
i s hal f frozen ,
.

pas te thus ob tain ed bei n g pu t away i n sm all


F R E N C H D R E S SI N G F o u r par ts of ol ive oi l fl

j ars very o f ten m i xed wi th t ru ffles ; i t i s u se d


,

f o r san d wiches garn ishes i n c roustades wi th


to on e par t of vinegar wh i te or t arr a gon a , ,
, ,

aspic j elly ; cu t i n pi eces an d m ixe d wi th bu t ton l i ttl e on i on j uice fi n e l y ch opped parsl ey sal t , ,

mush room s i n a rich sauce then fi lled in to and r e d pe pper th e whol e thoroughly m ixe d , .

F R I A N T I N E — French wor d so meti mes use d to


,

scal l op shell s g ratin ated ba k ed and serve d ;


,

,

also f o r l i n in g game pi es and pa t ties ; as a s tuf design ate a bouchée o r sm al l pa t ty shell ,

fi n g f o r small game bi r d s e tc hence a smal l pa t ty of game m ay be c a l l e d a


, .

f r i a n t i n e o f game
F O ND U — Is th e n ame given by th e French to a
.

d ish o f eggs scram b l e d so f t wi th gra ted cheese


F R I CAD E LL E S A L S O C A L LE D F R I CA N ,

a n d bu t te r ; serve d very h o t on t oas t o r fi lled DEL L E S A r e ma d e o f th ree fif th s cold coo k e d -

o n e fif t h e
,

meat on e fi f th raw mea t b r a d - -

in to f a ncy paper cases quickly browned on top , , ,

d ric e th e whol e mi nced s ea L


,

a nd served
c rumb s or b oi l e , ,

a
.

s o n e d wi th sal t peppe r parsl ey herb s nd


F O R CE M E AT — Nam e given to a h ig hl y seasoned
, , ,

l e mon juice boun d wi th beaten eggs mad e u p , ,


m in ce tha t h as been rub b e d th rough a sieve ;
i n to ball s pa t s cu tl e t shapes e tc fried i n , , , .
,
use d i n m ak ing q uen ell es l in in g pi es e tc
d ri ppi n g or b rea d ed a n d fried th en served
.
, ,
, ,

C H I C KE N F O R CE M E A T — R a w b reas t o f ch ick wi t h a sauce or garn i ture appropria te to the


en wi th th e s k in re m ove d poun d e d rubbed mea t used , , .

through a tam i s m ixe d wi th a l i t tle crea m a n d F R I CA N D EA U — N ame appl ie d to the whol e bu t


s t rain ed wh i tes of ra w eggs seasone d wi th sal t t o o k o r cu shion o f veal th a t i s l ar d e d b rai se d
, ,
, , ,

red pepper n u tm eg an d l emon j u ice


,
an d se rved i n broa d sl ices wi th a sauce or .

VE AL FO R CEM EA T O R G ODIVE AU Equal garn i tur e .

quan ti ti es o f veal or bee f k i d n ey sue t and l ean F R I T T E R S — Are ei ther a m ix tu re o f frui ts veg ,

veal mince d poun d e d ru b be d th ro u gh a S ieve ” e tables mea t or poul try c ombined wi th fl o u r


, ,
,

wi th ch oppe d ch ives then i s mix e d i n yolks o f


n

and eggs to for m a ba t ter ; o r the a r t i c l e e n


,

eggs a t th e ra te o f two t o each poun d o f mea t


'

c l osed w i th i n a bat ter th en f ried crisp o r ,


, ,

th en fi n ishe d to th e p rope r c onsi s tency wi th b a k ed as for eclairs e tc ,


.

some s t rain e d col d V é l o u t é sauce C AND I ED PEE L FRI TT ERS Candied ora n ge .

H A M A N D L I V E R F O R C E M E AT — Li g h t c o l
'
,

l emon a n d c i trOn peel choppe d fin e a nd mix e d


'

o re d cal f s l iver a n d fa t ha m i n equ a l quan ti ties


in to a s ti ff ba t te r compose d o f 1 poun d of fl ou r
cu t i n s mall pieces th e l i v er l ai d i n cl ear Col d , m oi sten ed wi th tw o t hi r d s s wee t w i n e a n d on e '
-
'

“ '

w a t e r l o n g enough t o ex tra c t t h e b l o o d S O th a t t h e wh ippe d


'

t h i r d b r a n d y ; after a l l mixed
- '

, ,

t h e f o r c e m e a t wi ll be wh i ter ; a f ter wh ich i t i s


wh i te s of t e n e g gs are s ti rred i n th e mi x
' '

th e ha m sau t ee d ove r a
'

d rain ed a n d w i p e d t
ture i s the ri pl aced in a forcin g bag wi th
,

quic k fi re then t h e l iv e r i n th e h a m f a t of a
, l arge tube an d f orced ou t in to boil ing fat f rie d , , ,

gol d en color toge ther wi t h som e ch o ppe d shal c ri sp a n d done th rough ta k en u p d raine d , , ,

lo ts parsley a n d m ushrooms season e d w i th r e d


, rolled i n po w d ered sugar ; serve d w i th win e
,

pepper sal t a n d a li t tl e m i x e d sp ices t h e sauce frui t purée or m arm al a d e . D ev i ati on s


'


, , ,

whol e th en ch opped fi n e pounded rubbed m a y b e ma d e by usin g th e i mp or te d “fr u i ts


, ,

throu gh a sieve ; i t i s th e n rea d y f o r u se



gl a c e S suc h as a ngelica poi res ceris es e tc . , , ,
.
T H E CU LI N A RY HAN D B O O K .


F R U I T FR I T TE R S B lac ber ries raspbe rries
k in bat te r and fried ; served w i th ,
oran ge s auce
,

d ewberries s trawberrie s e tc mi xed in to a m e made from the .


sy rup they were blanche d in .

, ,

d i u m s ti ff b a t ter wi thou t b reaking the f rui t C ON FIT U R E F R IT T E R S Al so called beig— “


,

d roppe d by spoon f u l s in to very ho t f a t f ried ne ts aux c o n fi t u r e s F rui t marmal ade S p rea d , , .

d raine d ; se rved wi th a sauce made of the frui t be tween t wo th i n slices of plai n cake then ,

used th e fri t te r being dus ted wi th powdered


, dipped i n ba t ter a n d fr ie d .

sugar .
PEA C H F R ITTE R S —Hal ves of peeled fr esh

SPAN IS H PU FF FR I T T E R S M ade by boi l ing f rui t o r canned on es d raine d d ipped i n b a t te r ,

toge ther 7 o z s of but te r 2 o zs of sugar a n d


.
an d fried ; served wi th a th ick sy rup sauce i n to
, .
,

one pin t o f wa te r ; when boiling 9 ozs of si f te d which has been work ed some peach bu t te r the
,
.
,

flou r i s thrown i n all a t once a n d s ti rred t il l fri t te rs dusted wi th sugar ,


.

well coo k e d abou t fi ve m in u tes then removed A P R I C OT F R I T T E R S— S ame as th e pr ecedin g


, ,

from th e fi re and ten eggs beaten i n on e a t a bu t substi tu ting apricots for peaches ; a n
ti me e ach egg to be thoroughly in corporated
,
o the r way i s to f orm a h al f aprico t from rice
be f ore the nex t i s pu t in ; wi th the l as t egg is c roque t te m ix ture and pu t ting th e h al f aprico t ,

a d d e d a tabl espoon f ul o f van il l a e x trac t ; wi th i t p inn ing wi th a too thpick dip pe d i n , ,

d roppe d i n small spoon f ul s i n me d i um ho t fa t bat ter a n d f ried too thpic k then re moved ; ,

they will expan d in to h oll o w ball s abou t th e se rved wi th sauce ,

si z e o f an orange ; room mus t be allowe d to PI N E APPL E F R IT T E RS — Slices of c ored can


allow of thei r expansion and fo r them to rol l n e d pineappl e d rai ned d ippe d in ba t ter a n d ,

over ; when d on e d rained ; served d uste d wi th f ried ; served wi th a win e sy rup glace sauce
, .

pow d ered sugar van illa or win e sauce around ,


C O R N F R I T T E R S — C ooked corn cu t fro m th e
.

QUE EN F R I T T E R S —Same as th e preceding cob or c anned co rn pounded m ixe d wi th ,


, , ,

bu t om i t tin g the sugar a n d vani l la i n th e m ix flour eggs an d bu t ter se asone d wi th sal t , , ,

ture ; when d on e they may be spl i t i n the side , d roppe d by s poon ful s i n h o t f at fri ed ; serve d ,

and fi lle d wi th pas try cream ei ther as a vege tabl e or garn ish
, .

C U S T A R D FR ITT E R S Boil in g mil kand sugar PA R SN IP F R I T T ER S —T h e parsn ips b oiled


-
,

thicken ed s ti ff Wi th corn s tarch some beaten then m ashe d and m i xe d wi th flou r eggs a n d
,
,

eggs then work ed i n flavo red w i th ex trac t bu tter seasoned wi th sal t and wh i te peppe r
,
,
,

pou red i n to sha ll ow pan ; when cold cu t in to th e m ix ture S h oul d be me d iu m so f t ) d ropped


( , ,

diamond shapes breade d fried served wi th , by spoon fuls in h o t fat ; when done se r ved as a
,
°

custard sauce .
vege table or garn i sh .

CH O C OL AT E F R ITTE R S — S ame as the pre FR OG S T here are t wo kinds on th e mar k e t the -


,

ceding bu t boil in g som e chocola te wi th the


,
small m arsh frog a n d the large bul l f rog ; th e ,

m ilk ; serve d w i th v an i l l a cream sauce i s the mos t conven ien t for use a n d trade
.

bu ll
APPL E F R I T T ER S — Appl es pee l ed core d
,
_

giving th e gues t mos t sa ti sfac tion a n d t h e cook , , ,

l eaving the st alk on the core h ol e fi l le d w i th l eas t t roubl e i n p repara tion


, .

s ti ff fru i t m ar malade ; dippe d in to a s ti ff ba t ter


FR E I D F R O G S T A R T A R S AU C E — T h e l egs ,
,
s l o wl y fried til l don e ; se rved dusted wi th marinade d for an hour i n lemon j uice sal t a n d ,

p owd ered sugar .


pepper wi ped rol led i n flou r then br ea d e d ,

APPLE F R I T T E RS — L arge good cooking app les


, ,

a n d fried ; serve d wi th tartar sauce garn ishe d ,

peel e d and core d cu t in sl ices d ippe d i n ba t ,wi th l emon sl ices a n d pars l ey


, .

t e r f r i e d ; served wi th frui ts ru m or win e sauce


,
B R OIL E D F R O G LEG S —T he l egs m arinade d
, .

R I CE FRI T T E R S — Wel l boi led rice d rained f o r an h our i n ol ive oil le mon j uice sal t and , ,

a n d poun d ed mixe d wi th eggs sugar a n d a


, pepper ta k en up fl ou re d b roi le d and b as te d
,
, , ,

l i t tle flo u r ; flavored wi th gra ted l emon rind wi th the mari na d e till d on e served wi th M ai tre , ,

ma d e in to fla t roun d ca k es wi th a d epression i n D H otel b u t ter garnishe d wi th lemon and pars


'
,

th e cen t re frie d ; served coa ted wi th powdered


,
ley
W
.

sugar a n d th e depr essi on fi ll e d wi th mar ma


,
STEWED FR OG LEG S IT H P E AS — F rog
l ade or j elly
legs b l anched for a f e w m in u tes i n sal ted; v in e
.

G E R MAN FR ITTE R S —Ve ry l igh t rol l dou gh gar wate r then d raine d a n d pu t in to a rich .
,
-
'

cu t ou t i n thin fl ats l i t tl e j am placed i n cen tre V é l o u t é sauce si mmered til l d on e ; se rved wi th


, ,

of one cove re d w i t h a n o t h e r fl at al lowe d to a borde r of sau t ee d green peas


' ‘

, , ,

ri se then frie d d rained roll ed in pow d ered F R I CAS SEE OF F R O G LEG S —F rog l egs l igh tl y
, , , ~


sugar and served ; al so called B i s mar k s sau t ee d wi th bu t te r and m ince d shall o ts tak en .
"
,
-

O R ANG E F R I T T E R S Q uar ters of skin n e d up the b u t te r then l igh tl y b rown e d fl our a d d ed , ,

oran ges wi th the see d s remove d blanche d in a to form a r o ux mois tene d w i t h chicke n stoc k

.
, ,

thic k sy rup tak en up a n d d raine d then dip ped


, b rough t t o the boil sk i mmed seasoned wi th , , ,
: .
84 T H E CU LI N A R Y HAND B O O K .

sa l t red pepper and sher ry wi n e l egs pu t back


, , tongue and fa t sa l t pork ar ranged a l tern a te l y
in to i t a n d si m mered ti ll done . down the cen t re al so some sl ices o f t ruffles i f
FRO G LEG S S O UTHE R N S T YL E —F rog l egs
,

, a t h an d ; th e mea t of the smaller bi rd then laid


sau t eed wi th bu t ter an d m ince d shallo ts th en , over the s tu fli n g th e wh i te m ea t covering th e ,

tak en u p ; t o th e b u t ter an d shall o ts i s n ow d ark of the o ther bi rd so that when o u t l igh t , ,

added a l i t tl e raw l ean h am c u t i n sma ll d i ce ,


and dark m ea t i s served to each por tion ; th e
toge ther wi th a chopped gre e n peppe r ; when sk i n of the l arge bi rd i s then d rawn toge the r
b a rn i s n ear l y don e add two quar ts of chicken
, and se wn cl osel y pl ace d in to a cl o th whic h i s ,

con sommé a q uar t can each of ok ra and toma


, again sewn an d tie d a t th e end s l i k e a rol y poly
toes b rough t t o the boi l a cupful of well
, ,
pudding p l unge d in to boi lin g season ed wh i te
,

washed rice then added ; when rice i s n early s tock a n d si m mered til l d one ; ta k en up and
d one the frog l egs are pu t i n and si m mere d
, whi l e s till ho t p ressed i n to a mol d wi th scre w
,

til l tende r I t shou l d b e a th i c k s tew Served


. .
,
p ressu re or weigh t on top ; wh en se t and cold ,

the legs i n cen t re of d ish wi th th e vege tab l es the cloth re m ove d t he b i rd wiped wi th a ho t ,

aroun d as a garn i sh . c l o th to re move all grease and s tai ns i t i s the n ,

F R O G LE G S S A U T E ,
P R OVENC AL E —The sl iced fo r th e table I f the bi rds are bo th .

l egs season ed wi th sal t a n d pepper then sau young and j uicy i ns tead of being boil e d th ey ,
,

t eed wi th bu t ter taken up i n to a sau toi r c o v m ay be b rai sed or roas ted ( of cou rse wi thou t
, ,

e red wi th Proven c al e sauce si m mered t ill being tied i n a cl oth ) when don e taken up , , ,
,

ten der ; served garn ished wi th sma ll s tu ff ed p ressed t rim med and g l azed
, .

on ion s and to matoes . G ALAN T IN E S are h oweve r gen eral l y served


FR O G L E G S S AU T E S P O U L E TT E — The wi th
,
aspic j ell y and the n ices t way i s to tak e ,

l egs season ed wi t h sal t and peppe r then sau the bi rd s when pressed wipe and trim c u t ih , ,
,

t eed wi th but ter and minced shal l o ts taken up to even sl ices ; gal an ti ne mold s l ine d wi th aspic
,
j elly then d ecorated wi th cooked peas m a c é
i n to a sau toi r covered wi th sauce Pou l e t te
, ,
, ,

d o i n e s fancy sh apes of whi te o f eggs bee t car


si m mere d till tender ; ser ved wi th th e sauce ,
, , ,

ro t and tru ffl es these decoration s again co a ted


garn ished wi th flage o l e t bean s and fancy c r o fi ,

tons .
wi th aspic to keep them in posi tion the sl ices , _

of bi rd then l ai d i n to the m o l d E D G E S D OWN


FR O G L E G S S A UT E B ORD E LA I S E — T he , WARD S n o t l aid fl at ; li mpid aspic run be tween
legs sau t eed wi th m inced h am gar l ic sh a l e ach s l ice ; when th e mold is fu ll se t turn ed
, ,
, ,

l ots thy me an d b u t te r taken up to the resi


, ou t decora ted and sen t to tabl e I h ave seen
, ,
, .

due i s then added sauce E spagnol e wi th a gal an tin es served a t banque ts where the s l ices
gl ass of clare t win e ; th is i s then re d uced t o a of mea t h ave been l aid fl a t i n th e m ol d wi th ,

dem i gla ze and s trai n ed over th e l egs ; served


-
th e resul t tha t th e wai ters coul d n o t p rocure a
garn ished wi th fri ed s l ices of beef m arrow decen t s l ice to serve ; h ad th e e d ges been placed .

F R O G OM EL E T S O UT H E RN S T Y L E
, do wn wards the wai ter o r serv ing man would ,

S h redded f rog mea t l ef t over fro m ei ther of th e h ave been abl e to move each slice wi th the j el l y
fou r prece d in g receip ts m ixed i n to a sauce adhering si mp l y b y th e aid of a fork
,
.

c a mp o s e d of one thi rd e ach of to ma to E s pa g G AM E — N am e app l ied i n a cu l in ary sen se to


-
,

n ol e and C r e Ol e sauce ; a spoon ful enclosed bi rds an d an i ma l s fi t f o r tab l e use tha t are
wi th i n a savory ome l e t ; served wi th more of h un ted by s por tsmen the an i mal s and bi r d s ,

t h e frog m ea t down he sides no t be ing domesticated ; these e mbrace wood


.

G ALAN T IN E — A n ame app l i ed to fow l some cock quai l sn ipe pa r tridge wild d ucks geese , , , , , ,

game fi sh a n d mea t th at may be bone d s tu ff e d


,
an d bran t p rai ri e ch icken s grou se ph easan t , , , , , ,

boiled brai sed or roas ted then pressed and cu t


,
reed bird s rail sora or tolan s rice bi rd s sage
, , , , ,

i n to s l ices fo r service wh en cold ei ther plai n hen s whea t ears l arks cape rcail z i e plove r
, , , , , ,

or fi l l ed in to mo l d s wi th aspic j el l y and d ecor e tc squi rrel s hares ven ison moose c aribou .
, , , , , ,

a ted . black bear e l k an tel ope m oun tain sh eep a n d , , ,

E
G A L AN T I N E O F T U RK Y O R C H I C KE N goa t ; reci pes wil l be found under each r e s pe c

T wo bi rds th e l arge r on e to be si nge d the


,
tive heading ,
.

'
sm aller sk i nned the bi rds sk in spl i t do wn the G A R D E N PART I E S C oun try c l ub s tewards
,

back fro m the he ad to tail the carcass r e and ca terers are o f ten c all ed upon to p repare
,

moved wi thou t fu r the r breaki ng th e skin ; the for and su peri n ten d g arden par ties and a s a ,

l arge one l aid ou t fl at sk in down wards sea rul e the m ea l i s served ou t of doors unde r a
, , ,

s o n e d wi th sal t pepper a n d powdere d m ixed


,
marquée When the s te ward o r c a te re r h as .

herbs ; th e under fi l l e ts of the breas t to b e fi l led several th rough th e su mme r season i n va r ab l y ,

i n to the space wh ich th e b reas tb one occupied th e same gues ts are to b e found he mus t th e re , ,

the wi n g an d l eg meat drawn in wards an d th e fore rack h is b rain s to c on tin uall y change the
sine ws re moved th e wh o l e then sp read w i th a
,
card S ol id food i s N OT R E Q UI R E D The . .

f orce or s ausa g e mea t ; t wo s t r i ps e a ch of cooked refresh men ts shou l d be tea and coffee v arious ,
THE C U LI N A RY H A ND B OO K . 85

kin d s o f cups del ica te sandwiches of m inced


,
e red wi th fried bread c ru mbs arranged aroun d ,

and c reamed mea t and fi sh i nd ividua l cak es the ch icken wi th Allemande sauce poured u n
, ,
~

rolled b read and bu t te r ices frui t ; s t rawbe rri es ,


der Th is same i s appl ied to mos t fowl and
,
.

a n d cream are usuall y serve d f ro m large S ilve r gam e served a l Al l e m an d e '


.

bow l s Th e bu ff e t should be wel l supp l ied wi th ALLE M ANDE—For brai sed fi sh such as carp or
.

canapes bouchées ti mbal es d ari ol es ind ivid


, , pike th e garn ish i s composed of smal l fi sh
, ,

u al galan tines made i n f ancy ge m pan s— all


,

q uen elles bu t ton mush room s c rayfi sh tail s , , ,

things to be of an individua l for m as far as pos and ei ther smal l oys ters o r mussel s ar ran ge d ,

sibl e Wha teve r wines are used should be of


. aroun d the fi sh wi th A ll em ande sauce i n wh ich
the l igh t a n d sparkl ing varie ty n ever any th in g has been worked some of the fi sh b raise and
,

h eavy and hea ting .


anchovy bu t ter .

G A R FI S H —N ame of a fi sh wi th an e l ongated AL LE M AND E — F or roas t or brai sed ven ison ,

m ou th rese mbl ing i n body bo th m ac k erel and the mea t is garn ished wi th prune s s te wed i n
eel ; they are p repared and served i n al l the red win e pota to quenelles and a sauce poured , ,

ways applicab l e to eel s .


over th e m eat ; ma d e by ta k ing equal par ts o f
G A R L I C—N a m e of a podded or c l o ve d form of
w
red cu rran t j ell y B urgundy wi n e a n d E s p a g ,

on ion o f very s t ron g tas te a n d fl avor a l ways to n ole sauce boil ing them toge th er wi th the rin d
, ,

b e used sparingl y ; i t en ters i n to m any soups an d j uice of an oran ge and a piece of stick , ,

sauce s a n d ragou ts ; i n the reci pes requi rin g i t c in n amon then s train ,
,
.

the word cl ove sign ifi es on e of the sec ti on s


,
AN D AL O U SE — S mall s tu fle d tom atoes an d green .

G A RN I S H E S —Nam e given to m i x ture of smal l peppe rs wi th a s mal l m old of d ry boiled rice ,


,

tasty foo d s i n sauce use d as a garn i sh and , arrange d al tern atel y around a di sh o f brai se d
appropri ate sauce to th e m ai n ar ticl e served or roas t mea t or f ow l wi th Anda l ouse sauce .

Unhappil y there are so man y garn ishes th a t poured unde r th e m eat .

the average cook h as n o t the b rain to re ta i n bu t


AU R O R E —C omposed of smal l fi sh q uene l les ,
a l i m i te d n umber a n d n o t on e cook i n a b u n .
,
bu t ton mush room s an d blanched oysters or
d red could si t d o wn and w ri te the compon en t
mussel s the whole mixed i n to Au rora sauce ;
par ts o f t wen ty garn i tures righ t Off the reel I t .
,

appropriate to garni sh cu tle ts of fi sh such as ,


i s th e garn i shes tha t s tupe fy the gues ts and
sal mon trou t pike cod sn appe r h a l ibu t e tc ,
.

m ak e the m order p l ai n roas t turkey ; tha t c o v , , , ,


ers th e bil l s of fare wi th worse than m on gre l AN G L AI SE — Fo r boiled beef i s composed of
F rench ; th at spoils man y a good dish because n eatly t ri m me d pl ai n boil ed carro ts a n d turn ips ,

the garn ish used is n o t app ropria te to the f ood arrange d al tern ately around the mea t wi th sue t
serve d ; tha t m ake s the coun try ho te l keeper ask dumpling s ; piquan te sauce served separa tel y .

the cook wha t h e wan ts thi s and tha t for ; tha t AN G LAI S E —F o r roas t beef o r fi ll e t i s smal l ,

m akes the gues t when h e l ook s a t the bil l of brown ed po ta toes a t the side of th e mea t wi th ,

f are exclai m : What i n thunder i s a l a M o n t m o r sc raped horserad ish a t the ends .

ency ! a l a th is and a l a tha t T he f ol l o wing


ANG LAI SE — F or ca l f s head i s composed of a
.

garn ishes a re the mos t p rincipal i n u se a re ,


,

pu t i n a si mpl e way to memori ze n o t only th ei r s l ice each o f boiled bacon and gla zed tongue ,
,

ingredien ts ; bu t tha t mos t i mpor tan t poi n t tha t and served ei th er wi th parsl ey or devil sauce .

u p to date n o coo k book has ever a t temp ted to ANG LAIS E — For boiled ch icken is composed of ,

sho w T H E D I S H E S T H AT T H E G AR N
. tu f ts of boiled caul iflower a thin s l ice of ham , ,

I S H E S A R E APP R OPR I ATE T O a n d B échamel sauce poured around . .

AD M I R A L — Com posed Of sh rimps boi l ed c ra y AN G L AI SE z — Fo r roas t goose i s garn i shed wi th


,

fi sh t ai l s frie d tuf ts of parsl ey oys te rs o r


,
pl ain sage and on ion s t u fli n g a b ro wn gravy
,
,

mu ssel s bl anched d rain ed dipped i n V i l l e r o i


,
pou red over an d app l e sauce served separ
,
,

sauce then breaded a n d f r ied ; approp ri ate as a a tel y .

garn ish to WH OL E fi sh the par ts arranged i n


E —For boiled leg of mu t ton i s garn
,

smal l groups around the fi sh wi th A d mi ral AN G L AI S ,


. '

i sh e d wi th a small m ol d of m ash ed whi te


sauce served separa tely .

turn ips a l tern ated wi th a t ri m med boiled car


AL LE M AN D E — For b rai sed meat i s compose d ,

ro t a n d served wi th caper sauce ,


.

o f ste wed s a u e r k r o u t prun es a n d pota to cake s


,


,

arranged arou n d the meat wi th Poiv rade sauce ANG LAIS


,
E F or boil ed l eg of sa l t pork i s garn ,

poured under i t . i s h e d wi th tri m med boile d carro ts a n d turn ips ,


A L LE M AND E For boi l ed l e g o f pork : om i t a rran ge d a l terna tel~
y around the mea t wi th a
the s tewe d pr ne s and po ta to c akes substi tu t
u
purée o f spl i t peas
,
.

ing gl aze d piece s of carro t t urn i p and sm al l AN G L AI S E —F or roas t pork i s garn i sh e d wi th


, ,

on i on s . sage a n d on ion s tu ffi ng i n spoon f u l s al te rna tely


ALLE M AN D E — F or boi l ed chicken : the garn wi th a sma ll ba k ed appl e ; b rown g ravy or
'

i sh i s quenel les of pota toes poached the n c o v apple sauce se r v ed separate l y ,


.
86 T H E C U L INARY H AND B O OK .

ANG LA I S E — F or boil ed sa l m on i s garn ish ed sauce which i s m ade of fried on i on s wi th a


, ,

ei ther wi th sh ri mp mussel or parsl ey sauce ,


. suspicion o f garl ic mois tened wi th brown ,

AN GL AI SE — For roas t tu rkey i s compose d of ,


sauce season e d then rubbed th rough a tami s ;
, ,

smal l pork sausages f ri e d a sl ice of boile d ham , ,


s mal l ol ive shapes o f potatoes fried a l igh t
bacon or sal t pork s te we d ch es tn u ts arrange d
, , ,
b rown i n bu t ter generall y accompanies the
.

al tern atel y a round the mea t wi th s t u fli i n g n u bean s i n the garn i tu re .

d e r i t poiv rade sauce poured around


,
. C A R D I NAL— C omposed o f sma ll quene ll es of
l obs ter small turn ed t ru ffles and bu t ton mush
[ T H E E N G LI S H WAY of serving sal m i s of ,
-

game i s to S i mp l y garn ish wi th bu t ton mush room s all m i xed i n to a C ar d in al sauce ; appro
,

room s and c r o fit o n s T h ei r roas t ven i son i s


.
p r i a t e to serve wi th s tu ff ed baked pike c arp , ,

serv e d pl ai n wi th Yor k shi re sauce ] .


boile d sal mon tu rbo t h alibu t fi lle ts of sol e , , , ,

boudin s of l obs te r paupi e t tes of sol e fi lle ts of


AF R I C A I N E —C omposed of s tewed okras ar ti
, ,
,
trou t e tc , .

chok e bot toms a n d pieces of egg plan t m i xe d


C H AM B O R D C omposed of fi sh q uen el l es
in to an E spagn ol e sauce ; appropria te to se rve ,

tru ffles bu t ton mush rooms c rayfi sh small fi sh


wi th braised vea l and fow l s .
, , ,

roes moi s ten ed wi th G en evoise sauce f o r th e


AU J U S —D is h es so n amed are served wi th thei r
,

on e par t C rayfish tail s tu rne d tru ffl es small


.
, ,

n atural j uice or gravy .


fi sh roe s moi s ten e d wi th V i l l e r o i sauce for the
B AYA R D —Co rn p o s e d of circul ar s l ices of red secon d par t ; a ppropri ate to garn ish W H OLE
tongue t ru ffles m ush rooms an d ar tichokes all
, , , fi sh such as sal mon for a banque t table th e
, ,

boiled d own wi th a l i t tle M ad ei ra win e then , t wo colored garn ishes being u sed al tern atel y ,

m ixed in to Espagnol e sauce ; appropria te t o i n tersticed wi th whole c rayfi sh .

serve wi th s wee tbreads l amb fries a n d o ther ,


C H IPO L AT A— C omposed of small g l a zed on ion s ,

wh i te mea t en t rées the en d s of the d ish bein g


,
g l a zed bal l s of carro t a n d turn ip ch es tnu ts , ,

garn ished wi th c r o fito n s sp read wi th foie gras -


.
coc k s com b s and kernel s or pieces o f ch ic k en ,

B O R DE LA I S E —C omposed o f sl ices of parboiled pi eces of b raised bacon balls of v eal or por k ,


'

ox mar row and B ordelai se sauce or a sauce o r , sausages a n d bu t ton mush rooms the wh ole ,

bu t te r composed of m inced shall ots a s u s p ic , m ois ten ed wi th Fin anci ere sauce ; appropria te
ion o i garl ic m inced parsley and bu t ter ; served
, to garn i sh small bi rd s on toast b raise d cu tle ts ,

wi th b roiled s teak s . of mu t ton roas t ph easan ts roas t suc k l ing pig


, , ,

B O R D E L AI S E — Fo r m atel ote of eel s i s com ,


roas t tu rkey sau té of rabbi t brai se d p rai rie, ,

pose d o f ve ry s mal l on ion s s tewe d b u t ton ,


h en par tri d ge w i th c abbage braised capon
, , ,

mush rooms an d bl anched sau t ee d oys ters th e ,


cu tle ts o f tu r k ey e tc , .

wh ole spri nkled wi th ch oppe d p ars l ey a r range d ,


C H I V R Y — C omposed of b l anched oys ters coa te d
al tern atel y round the m atelo te wi th fancy c ro ft wi th V il l e r o i sauce then brea d ed a n d frie d ; ,

ton s ; n o sauce . smal l po ta to croque ttes smal l bouché e s o f ,

B O R D E L AI S E — Fo r roas t quails i s a garnish oys ters and crayfi sh tail s d ippe d i n V i l l e r o i


,
,

o f sl ices of tru ffl e s a n d mush room s m i xe d i n to


sauce ; appropria te garn i sh to who l e fi sh .

a B or d elaise sauce .
D UC H E SSE— Co mpose d of s trips Of red to n gu e
a n d cocks
B OU R G I G N O T T E O R B OU R G I G N O N N E — Is
combs m ix ed i n V el ou té sauce ;
c ompose d of very sm all on ion s s te wed then appropriate for whi te mea t en trees .

gl aze d wi t h an equal qu an ti ty of bu t ton mush


,
D AU PH I N E — Composed of D uchesse po ta toes ,

rooms an d smal l quen elles of force mea t al l f ried tufts of pars l ey an d I tal i an sauce ; used for
m ixe d i n to a B o u r gi gn o t t e sauce ; appropria te fried cu tle ts of ch icken veal cu tle ts e tc , , .

to serve wi th c r o fis t a d e of quail s cu tle ts of , D U RAND — Com posed of tri m me d sl ices of t r u f


s turgeon sau t es cu tle ts of mu t ton sau tés
, , fle s ch icken livers mushroom s ham s wee t
, , , ,

brai sed pigeon cu tle ts sa l mi s of sma ll bi rds , , breads , bacon ol ives s tu ff e d wi th t ru ffl e f arce , ,

e tc.
cock s combs gherkin s and h ard boiled yolk s ,

B OU E R G O I S E —C on sis ts of pl ai n roo t vege ta


,

of eggs cu t in h alves th e whol e moi s tened ,

b l es glaz ed ; app ropriate fo r si mp l e dishes ,


wi th E spagn ol e sauce tha t i s flavore d wi th
such as glazed s h o r t r i b s of beef b raise d fl ank
, ,
thy me ; appropria te garn i sh to fricandeaus ,

of beef rolled breast of veal e tc


, , . roas t o r b raised legs of mu t ton cush ion s of ,

B O H EM I E N N E —Composed of s ton ed ol i ves ,


veal e tc, .

D A R T O I S —A fi sh garni sh composed of st ri ps o r

bu t ton m ushrooms sm al l onion s an d ball s of
,

po tatoes ; appropri ate to garn i sh b raised and c irc l es o f pu ff pas te con tain ing a sa l pi c on of
roas t mea t under wh ich i s poured Poi v rade
,
cooked crayfi sh tai ls oysters mush room s a n d , ,

sauce wh i te flesh ed fi sh
BR E T ON N E —A garnish ch iefl y used wi t h
. .

D U M AS —A garn i sh t o be used wi th game ; com


braised l eg o f mu t ton ; compose d o f boile d n avy posed of ham veal k i d neys cooked a n d cu t l n , ,

bean s d rained the n mois tened wi th B re tonn e


, , t o small sec ti on s then moistened w i th M ad ei ra ,
88 T H E C U L IN A R Y H AND B O O K .

who l e then m ois ten ed wi th P erigueux sauc e , m ushroom s each i n equa l quan ti ties al so some
, ,

boiled up for a min u te o r t wo App ropria te . l obs te r quen elles the l iquor f rom the bl anched ,
'

garn ish t o roas t black game large b o u d i n s o f ,


oys te rs and mush rooms reduced wi th a l i t tl e
pou l t ry sal mi s of par tr idges ro as t ph easan t
, , , wh i te wi n e th en a d ded to a V él o u té sauce fi n
, ,

roas t s tu fle d turkey roas t s t u fle d suc k l i ng pi g , , i s h e d wi th a l iaison of egg yol k s a n d c ream ,

broil ed s tu ff e d bone l ess pigs fee t b raise d quail s , l e mon j uice and c h opped pars l ey then is adde d ,

on fried c ro fis t ad e s fried quar te rs o f youn g rab , the r ago fit .

R I C H E L IE U — C omposed of smal l poul try quen


'

b i t v e a l chops sau tés ( these are fi rs t t ri m m ed


, ,

seasoned di ppe d in whipped egg whi tes rolled


, ,
ell es wh ich h ave som e brown purée of onion s
i n m inced t r u fll e s smoo thed wi th a k n ife , ,
i n thei r c omposi tion sl ices of br a ised poul try ,

sau t ee d sl ow l y wi th bu t te r a del ica te b rown


'

l i ve rs an d c ock s c ombs th e whol e m oi s tene d ,

abou t twen ty minu tes ) .


wi th a b rown on i on pu rée sauce ; appropri a te
PA R I S I AN — l —
C omposed of equa l quan ti ti es of garnish to en t rées of game an d poul try th a t are
tu rn ed t r u fli e s b u t to n m ush rooms and cock s ke r
, b read ed and sub sequen tly fri ed or b roile d al so ,

nel s mois ten ed wi th Parisi an sauce A pp rop ri


, . boneless pigs fee t b rea d ed b raise d carbon ade ,

a te garn ish to roas t larde d fi lle ts of bee f fi lle ts of , of mu t ton c r e p i n e t te s of par tridge e tc
, , .

ch icken sau tés fi ll e ts of par tridges b rea d ed and,


R OY AL E — C omposed of a r ago fit of bu t ton mush
sau t ee d sau t eed fi lle ts o f quail s on toast l arded
, ,
room s cocks combs and kern els small quenell es
, ,

a n d b raise d swee tbreads ( For a cl ub di sh t he .


,
of ch icken a n d tu rn e d tru ffl es the r a go fit to be ,

swee tbreads shoul d be serve d three to th e por m oi s ten ed w i th the g l a zy s t raine d b rai se from
tion on e l arded w i th s trips of t ru ffles on e wi th
, ,
th e m ea t A ppropri a te garn i sh to b raise d loi n
.

pars l ey s tal k s the th i r d wi th s tri ps of red


,
of veal breas t of vea l s tu ffed an d brai sed
, ,
tongue served on toas t wi th th e ga rn ish around )
, .

b rai sed saddl e of l amb b raised capon b raised , ,


Fill e ts of sol es s tu ff ed a n d sau t ee d ( thi s i s d on e ,
r abbi t l arded a n d braised fi lle ts o f ch icken
, .

by fil l e t i n g th e fi sh sp rea d ing th em wi th fo rce ,

m ea t arranged o n a baking shee t m oi s tened


,
R OYAL E G arn i sh when t o be u sed for game ,
,

wi th a l i t tl e wh i te wine covered wi th bu t te red ,


such as b raised ven i son hare ph easan t pa r t , , ,

paper slow l y bake d til l the fi sh i s se t then


,
ri d ge e tc i s composed of pi ece s of brai se d
, .
,
,

all owed to coo l spread wi th a col d All eman d e ,


pork sausages b raised bacon bu t ton mush , ,

sauce b readed th en gen tly sau t eed a fi n e col or


, ,
'

r oo ms an d green gh erkin s th e wh ol e moi s ten ed ,

wi th bu t ter ; served wi th the garn ish ) .


wi th a Poiv rade sauce .

PR OV E N C A L E —C omposed of smal l s t u ff ed and R OY ALE —T hi s n ame i s Of ten appl ie d to fi sh ,

bake d toma toes small on i on s wi th th e cen ters ,


bu t when so applie d i t h as n o garn i sh bu t i s ,

re move d afte r being s teamed , the wh ole then mean t to convey th e for m a n d s tyle of c ook ing ,

fi l led wi th forcemea t i n wh ich i s wo rked a l i t wh ich i s th e fi sh ei the r fil l e te d an d fried or ,

tl e ch eese an d a fl avo r O f garl ic they are then ,


bone d s tu ff ed and s tewed the n served wi t h a
, ,

sau t eed ; th e en trée when b eing se rved i s su r whi te R avigo te sauce some ti mes garn i sh ed wi th ,

rounded al tern a tel y wi th th e on ion s an d tom a fi sh quenelles .

toes al so a sauce Proven c a l e poured un d e r the


,
R OY ALE — Th i s n am e wh en app l ied to soup s and
mea t ; appropria te garn i sh to braised fi ll e t of con somm és has a garn ish o r fi ll i n g com posed
,

beef fried o u tl e t s of ch icken b rai sed d uc k s


, ,
, of fancy sh apes or smal l ti mbales of cus tard ;
l e g of m u t ton bon ed s tu ff e d an d b rai se d , , m ade wi th consom me an d egg y ol k s o r cour t ,

braised mu t ton cu tle ts sal m is of par t ri d ges , , boui l lon an d egg yolks wi th som e l obs te r roe , ,

roas t s tu ff ed suckin g pig fried cal f s brai n s i n ,


m inc ed mush room s m inced t ru ffl es parsley , , ,

ba t ter sa l m is of al l wi ld fowl s
, .
shall o ts a green p u r ee e tc e tc mi xed i n ac
R E G E NC Y —composed of smal l fi sh quen e ll es
. .
, , , ,

, cor d in g to fancy th e c u s tar d s teame d sl owly , ,

cocks comb s bu t ton mushrooms c rayfi sh tail s


, ,
,
th e eggs si mp l y m i xed wi thou t m uch bea ting .

t ru ffl es an d a l i t tl e lobs ter coral th e wh ol e


, ,
S O U B I S E — C omposed of sma ll pota to croque t tes
m oi s tened wi th s ome R egency sauce ; appropri
and a pu rée soub ise ; ma d e by sau t eein g wi th
a te garn ish to WH OL E boiled sal mon t rou t , ,
bu t te r som e bl anched on ion s season in g wi th ,
pike ha l ibu t tu rbo t an d red sn appe r
, , .

n u tmeg red pepper and a pi nch of sugar ; when


R OU E N N AI SE — Com posed of tu rn ips tu rned to
,

of a l igh t co l or moi s tened wi th wh i te sauce ;,

an even sm al l si ze sau t ee d i n bu t ter w i th a l i t , when don e th e who l e i s rubbe d through a


, .

tl e sugar t il l o f a fi ne golden color th en m oi s , tami s i n conj unc tion wi th a boi le d flo u r y po tato


t en ed wi th some sauce E spagnol e and si m me re d wh ich keeps th e p urée fi rm Approp ri a te ga r .

i n i t ti ll tender ; appropria te garn i sh to roas t n ish to b raised black game boudin s o f ch ic k en , ,



duck s roas t o r b rai sed pheasan t b raise d l e g o f
, , b raised l eg of mu t ton l arded n e ck of m u t ton , ,

mu t ton capercail z ie and bl ack gam e


, .
brai sed mu t ton cu t l e ts braised par tri d ges
R O U E N N AI S E —I s al so th e n ame o f a usefu l
, ,
'

l ard ed an d braise d pheasan ts l ard ed a n d ,

fi sh garn ish a n d i s co mposed fo r th i s use w i th ’


b rai sed pork cu t l e ts scallops of swee tb reads ,

blanch ed oysters a n d sh ri mps wi th bu t ton sauced b readed and fried


, .
T H E C U L I N ARY H ANDB OOK .

ST AN L E Y —G arn i ture often served wi th s teaks pi e d ish se rved as they are wi thin a borde r of , ,

composed of quar tered fried b an an as s m all green peas ,


.

ti m b ales of horse ra d ish m ixe d wi th rice m inced RAG O U T OF G I B LET S W I T H P OTATO


C RO QU E T T E S —T h e gi b le ts blanched then
,

sh al l o ts c ream an d egg yolk s ; served wi t h


, ,

sauce A l ber t over o r aroun d th e s teaks sau t ee d wi th bacon fi ni she d by s tewing till . ,


S U P R EM E C om posed of a purée of whi te tende r i n a brown sauce wi th ball s of carro t an d

ch ic k en mea t an d rice tha t has been boiled i n smal l on ion s ad d ing a t th e l as t some bu t ton ,

chicken s tock the purée bein g mi xed wi t h a l i t mush room s season wi th sherry win e ; served ,
,

tle rich c ream ; arran ged on the serving dish as a wi th i n a border of small potato croque t tes .

borde r d ecora te d wi th fanc y shapes of t ru ffle G I B L E T S OU P — T h e n ecks and second wing


, ,

th e m eat in th e cen t re bein g c overed wi th a j oin ts cu t i n to i nch pieces the gi z zar d s in to ,

S upr eme sauce such as b reas ts o f ch ic k en


,
thi n sl ices sau té them boi l the l ivers wi th some
, ,
, ,

swee tbread s c apon quai l s and par t ridges


, ,
m i nced on ion s spl i t th e blanched hear ts and . ,

— sau t é th em m ix al l toge ther a n d mois ten wi th


T O U L OU S E C omposed of slices of geese l ivers ,

roas t ch ic k en gravy l e t si m mer t il l tende r ;


sau t eed and gl a zed bu t ton mushroom s blan ch ed
,
,

m ean wh il e prepare a soup to the consi stenc y of


wi th l em on j uice and bu t te r scal l ops o f s wee t ,
th i n cream m ade fro m vea l or ch icken s tock
breads t urned tru ffl es cocks combs and kern el s
, ,
tha t has been fl avored wi th cel ery carro ts tur
mask ed wi th T ou l ouse o r Supr em e sauce A p .
, ,

n ips and on ion s i n equ al propor tion s bayleaf


p r o p r i a t e garn i sh to l arded an d sau t eed fi lle ts
, ,

thy m e basil savory an d mace ; when rea d y


of ch ic k en fricandea u o f veal sweetb rea d s
, , ,
, , ,

st rai n in to th e sou p tu reen a d d the gib l e ts in


capon l arded and sau t eed rib s of ve al
, .
,

sauce fi n i sh wi th S he rry win e and serv e


T ORT U— C omposed of o l ive shaped pieces of G IB L ET S O U P W IT H R I CE —T h e gib l e ts p re
.
,

t ru ffl e and g reen gherk in s s tone d sm all ol iv es


p a red an d sauced as i n th e prece d in g th e
, ,
,
bu t ton mush room s sca l lops of blanche d brain s
,
soup m ad e o f equal par ts of E spagn ol e tomato ,
or swee tbreads th e whol e m ois ten ed w i th a rich
,
a n d V é l o u t é sauces thin to con si s tency wi th ,
Mad ei ra sauce ; used to garn i sh cal f s head ’

vea l or chicken broth brough t t o the boil ,


, ,
lar d ed and braised tur t l e s tewed tur tl e fi n s ,

s k i mme d rice added and si m me red t ill te nder


, .

, ,

— then pou red to th e gible ts fi n ish wi th M ad ei ra


G HE R KI N S A s m al l prick l y c u c u mb e r u s e d for ’ ,

Wine
pickl in g ; t o pickle th e m they ar e fi rs t washed .

an d w iped th en p l aced i n j ars and covered wi th C LE AR G I B LE T S OUP B l anched gible ts cu t -


,

a boil in g b rin e s t rong en ough t o fl oa t a pota to in to n ea t S i ze si m mered in wh i te bro th ti l l ,

the si ze of an egg ; allowed to s teep fo r 2 4 h ours ten d e r added to a ch icken con somme toge ther ,
,

then ta ken ou t wiped p l aced i n cl ean j ars an d wi th so me j ulienn e vege tab l es .


, ,

cove red wi th h o t v i negar spiced w i th an on ion G L A Z E O r reduced mea t j uice used to g l aze ,
,

o r v arn i s h col d mea t such a s boned roas t


'

wh ol e c l oves m us ta rd seed bay l eaves and


, ,
, ,

m ace ; ready for us e in two weeks fowl s tongues hams game bi rd s boars h ea d
. , , , , ,

— e tc to en r ic h soups an d sauces ; m ade b y rap


G I B L E T S Are composed of th e hear t l iver , ,
.
,

i d l y boiling down clarified s tock c on som me or


gi z zard and neck of pou l try a n d as each tak e a ,
,

d i fferen t ti me to cook they S hould be c ooked i n


very c l ear bro ths ; these S h ould have had veal
,
a n d beef bones roas t gam e an d poul t ry car
groups of each an d af te rwards am algam ated ; ,

a l l re q ui re bl anch ing to remove th e b l ood casses boi l ed i n them so as to give the gla ze a
.

rich fl avor
G I B LE T S A U CE —B lanched and sau t eed hear ts
.

G OD IVE A U — N am e u sed for vea l forcem ea t ,


,
l ivers and gi z zards cu t very sm al l then m ixe d
,
made f rom 2 l bs of lean veal 2 l bs of beef sue t
,
.
, .
,
in to a th ickened gravy fro m the roasted bi rd s
1 lb of coo k ed vea l udder the wh ole pounde d .
,
t o be served wi th
t i l l i t i s crea m y season ed wi th red pepper
.

G I B L E T P I E — G eese g ible ts bl anched stewed


, ,

sal t nu tmeg 8 eggs and h al f a poun d of f resh ,


, ,

i n s tock ti ll ten d er wi th som e sherry wine wh i te grated b rea d c ru mbs when al l s moot h ,
, ,

carro t on ion and p arsley ; w h e n d on e the i t i s rubbed th rough a tam is and p l aced away , ,

vege tables removed s auce made from the , f o r u se I t i s valuabl e i n m aki n g forcemea t .

s tock an d season e d wi th minced sha ll o ts m ush bal l s as a l i n in g for mea t pies e tc quenelles ,
, , .
, .

room s chopped parsley red pepper sal t and a G O O S E — On e of t h e d omes tic fow l s m uch a r e
,
pp
, ,

l i t tl e swee t b asil ; th e gib l e ts th en arranged in c i a t e d by hote l pa tron s i f youn g S teward s can .

th e p ie d i sh toge th er wi th som e s ma ll piece s of tel l th i s by th e uppe r b il l tes t i f th e uppe r b il l ,

tende r sau t eed beef the sauce poured over a l l ,


will ben d or cave i n th e m idd l e i t i s youn g the ,
,

cove red wi th a shor t pas te eg g washed an d fi rmer i t i s the o l d e r th e bi r d ; i t i s n o t a very


,
,

bake d .
p rofi tabl e bi rd to t he p roprie to r unl ess p u r c h

E
S TE W D G I B L E T S W I TH G R E EN P E AS ase d very l ow i n price because wh e n from a ,

Poul t ry gibl e ts prepared as i n the preceding goose you ve taken legs an d b reas t wi pe l i ps ,

, ,
"
bu t in stead of mix ing wi th beef and p l acing i n thank G od a n d give the poo r t h e rest , .
"

96 T H E CU LI N A R Y I H AN D B OO K
'

Sprin g or green g e e s e ab o u t th ree m on ths served W i t h a b r Ow n sauce ma d e i n the sauce


'

o l d are n ever s tu ffed for roas ting : th e bes t pan i t was cook e d in a n d garn ishe d wi th c ol ,

fl avored geese are six t o n in e m on ths old a n d , u m n s o f glaze d turni ps .

bes t from Se p tembe r to C hris tmas .


B R AI SED G O O S E WI T H V E G E T AB L E S

'

B O I LED G O O SE WI T H PI C KLED P O R K Prepare t ru ss and braise th e bi r d s wi th bacon


, ,

T h e bi r d si n ge d d rawn and Wash e d plunge d , ,


h e r b s an d vege t ables ; served wi th b ro wn gravy ,

in to boil in g sal ted wate r wi th an on ion si m a n d g arn ished wi th even si ze d pieces of ca r


mered till ten d er ; served i n portion s wi th a slice ro t a n d tur ni p gl azed i n tersec ted wi th B russel s ,

o f boil e d ham or leg of sal t por k accompan ie d , sp ro u ts .

wi th celery s auce .
S T UFFED G O OS E WI T H GLAZ E D APPL E S
'

R OAST G OO SE STU FFED WI T H G OD I -


T h e bir d s prepared a n d fi lle d wi th mashe d
~

VEA U — Y oun g bi r d s singed wash e d d ra wn , , ,


po ta toes m ixe d wi th m inced a n d sau t eed on ion s ,

fill ed wi th g o d iveau trusse d roas te d ; served , ,


t russe d roas te d ; serv ed wi t h b rown gravy
, ,

wi th gibl e t sauce accompan ie d wi th a garn i sh ,


garn ishe d wi t h smal l apples bak ed whole and


o f sau t ee d g reen p e as a t on e e n d of d ish a n d ,
gl a z y .

a moun d of mashed po ta toes a t th e oth er . R OA S T G R EEN G O O SE G O O S E B E R R Y ,

B R AI S ED G O O SE WI T H S A U SAG E S — T h e S A U C E — T h e bi rd singe d d ra wn Wash ed


, , ,

bi r d prepared s tu ff e d wi th pork s ausage m ea t


,
trusse d wi th th e i n side season e d wel l wi th
,

fl avored wi th sage b raised wi th bacon and v e g ,


sal t pepper a n d pow d ered sage roast e d an d
, ,

e tabl es ; served w i th a garn i sh of Pari sien n e


'

basted ; serve d wi th gooseberry sauce .

pota toes b roil ed sausages an d gravy ma d e


, , G O OSEBE R R Y S A U C E G reen gooseber ries
fro m the s train ed and s k i mme d b raise . wi th a l i t tl e sugar and j us t en ou gh w a t e r t o t .

R OA S T G O OS E APPLE S AU C E — T h e bi rd ,
keep the m fro m burn ing i n a saucepan l i d , ,

placed o n si m mered t il l d on e then rub b e d


pr epare d a n d s tu ff ed wi th a mix ture of d ry
'

. , ,

b rea d c ru mbs mois tened wi th choppe d green through a S ieve l i k e c ranbe rries ; when passe d
apples minced on ion boiled wi th a l i t tl e wate r
,
through a l i t tle bu t ter is add ed ,

an d bu t ter ; season ed wi th sage sal t a n d peppe r , , G O R G ON Z OLA — N am e of a p ri me cheese made


trussed roasted ; serve d wi t h d ressin g unde r
, i n th e N or th of I tal y som ewha t resembling the ,

the meat a ppl e sauce se rve d sepa ra tely


, . E ngl ish stil ton ; i t i s of yell ow color wi th rich
R O AST G O O S E S TU F F E D WI T H C H E ST green vei n s , fi r m a n d c reamy .

N U T S —The bir d s prepare d a n d s tu ff ed wi th a G R AH AM FL O U R — N am e given to unbol ted


m i x ture ma d e o f two thirds che s tn u t pu rée -
flo u r by Sylves ter G rah am wh o cl aim s for i t ,

m ixed wi th on e th ird go d i veau trussed roas te d ;


-
, , m ore nu t ri tive p roper ties bu t i t has h owever , , ,

served i n por tion s : garn ished wi th roaste d an d been proven t o be less easy of diges tion ; i t i s
pee l e d ch es tnu ts b rown gravy m ade i n th e , m ad e in to brea d pancak es wa ffl es mu ffi ns , , , ,

roasting pan poure d un d er th e mea t . mush a n d c rackers .

R OA S T G O O S E W IT H O YS T E R S T UFFI N G G R APE S F R O S T ED — B unches of g rapes d ipped


,

— I he bird s p repared a n d fi lle d wi th a s tu ffin g


' ‘

in to wh i te s of eggs whipped in t o a f ro th the n ,

ma d e of a quar t each of oys ters bread cru mbs , , i n to p owd e re d sugar s u rplu s s u gar then S ha k en ,

a n d roll ed Oys ter c rac k ers on e h al f a poun d o f o ff hung t i ll se t an d d ry then se rve d


-
, , ,
.

so f t bu t ter f ou r eggs sa l t a n d pepper roas te d ;


, , ,
G R APE J AM — Pul p th e grapes keepi n g the pul p ,

serve d wi th a brown oyster o r brown cel ery a n d skin s separa te pou r the pulp in to a po t ce ,

sauce .
l ain l i ned ke t tl e and b ring i t t o boil ing poin t ,

G O O S E WIT H K RA U T G E R M AN S T Y L E , th e n press through a col a n d e r a d d th e s k in s ,

T h e goose prepared an d t russed arrange d i n a ,


and measure ; t o every q uar t al low a poun d of '

d eep sau toi r wi th well wash ed an d d rain e d sugar m ix boi l rapidl y f or 2 o minu tes s ti rri ng
, , ,

sauer k rau t bacon a n d sm all bol ogn a sausage


, ,
occasionall y pou r in to tu mbl ers o r j ars seal
, , .

an on ion s tuc k wi th clove s m ois tene d wi th a ,


I f g reen grapes allo w on e hal f poun d more -

'

l i t tle bro th and some f a t f ro m the top of stoc k ,


sugar t o th e quar t .

fe tched to th e boil then si m mered till don e ; ,


G R A PE ] E LLY — U se fresh l y gathere d ripe C on
serve d in por tion s wi th a garn ish o f krau t , bacon cor d C lin ton or I sabella grapes pu t the m i n to
, ,

a n d sausage .
s ton e c r ook s p pl ac e th e crocks in the bain mari e ‘
-

S T UFFED G O OS E WI T H G LA Z ED T U R o f col d wa ter cover t h e t o p s an d hea t S lowly ,

N IP S — T h e bi r d prepare d a n d s tu ffed wi th t ill grapes are so f t ; n o w pu t a sm al l quan ti ty a t


'

g rate d bread seasone d wi th sage a n d thy me a ti me i n to a j ell y bag a n d s quee ze ou t t h e ju i c e ;


l eaves parboile d m ince d onions sal t an d pep
, , measu re the j u ice a nd to each quar t allo w 2
per place d i n a sau toi r wi th an on ion s tuc k
, l b s o f granulate d sugar
. T urn th e j uice in to a .

wi th cloves cel ery parsl ey l i ttl e sher r y w in e


'

, , , porcel ain lin e d ke t tl e over a bri sk fi re place ,

a n d b ut ter l id pl aced on then pu t in to a ho t


, , th e sug ar i n th e oven to h ea t boil the j uice ,

r ap i dl y f o r 2 o m in u tes ; then q uic k l y add t h e


oven baked and bas ted till don e a n d g la zy ;


,
~
TH E C UL I N ARY H AND B O OK
'

.
91

s u gar s tirring til l i t is dissol ve d ; d i p th e glasse s


, gla ze ; served on a f ancy c ro fito n wi th sauc e
in to ho t wa te r wa tc h the l iqui d a n d as soon as
, , T ri an on poure d aroun d .

i t comes to t he boil remove from th e fi re a n d ,


R OA S T G R O U S E S COT C H S T YLE — Th e ,

fi l l the glasses .
bi r d s t russed a n d roas t ed pl ain ta k en up o u t
G R E EN G R AP E ] E L LY— Fox grapes are th e
, ,

i n quar ters serve d on toas t wi th B igara d e


,

bes t ; pu t th e s tem me d grapes i n to a porce l ai n sauc e poured ove r a n d garn i she d wi th S l ices of
,

l i ned ke t tl e barel y cove r the m wi th c ol d wa ter


, , oran ges .

cove r the ke t tl e and boi l sl owl y ti l l th e gr apes


,
S ALM I S OF G R O USE f — The b i rds t russed a n d
are very ten d e r then d rai n the m th rough a ,
roas ted plain ta k en up and c u t in to quar ters
, ,

flan nel j e l l y b ag ; to every quar t o f the j uice a l place d i n a sau toi r m oi stened wi th game sauce , ,

l o w 2 lbs o f gran ula ted sugar pu t th e j uice i h


.
,
f e tched t o th e Si m mer fl avore d wi th sherry ,

to porcelai n l ined ke t tl e b rin g to th e boil then , ,


w i n e ; s e r v e d wi th sauce ove r garn i shed wi th ,

add the su gar an d boil rapi d ly t il l i t j ell i es


, ,
fan cy c r o fito n s th e top of the bi rd sprink l ed
,

abou t 2 0 m inu te s sk i m min g o ff the scu m as i t ,


wi th gra te d orange r n d an d m i nce d tru ffl es .

rises ; a s soon as i t j ellie s d i p the gl asses in to ,


R O A S T G R O U S E H UN T E R S STYLE — Th e ,
boil in g wate r an d fi l l wi th t h e boil ing l iquid ,
bi r d trusse d a n d roas ted pl ain ta k en u p a n d ,
s tan d aside till col d an d fi r m then seal the
c u t in to quar ters ; serve d on toas t w i th sauce
,

tops
poure d Ove r ma d e of 2 par ts of E spagn ol e a n d
.

— “
G R AP E FR U I T A l so c al l ed shad d ock an d 1
,

par t tom ato sauces season e d wi th min ce d ,



forbidden frui t a d th e l argest on es pompo l
n
frie d sh all o ts l em on j uice minced mu sh room s
, ,

eon s a frui t o f th e orange species plen ti f ull y ,


a n d choppe d parsley .

grown i n th e Wes t Indi es and Flori d a a re of ,

an a greeabl e aci d gr a pe fl avor ; served cu t in S T E WE D G R O U S E WI T H G R E E N P E A S


halve s across wi th th e sec tion s loosen ed a n d S tu ff an d truss y oung bi rds roll them in bu t ter , ,
,

-the seeds re moved ; e a ten wi th pow d ere d s u ga r quic k l y brown th e m i n a very ho t oven ta k e ,
,

a l i t tl e sher ry win e bein g a valuable a d d i tion ou t and place i n a deep sau toi r mois ten wi th ,
,

G R AYLI NG —A p ri m e game fi sh of fin e flavor


game sauce pu t on th e sau toi r l i d l e t s te w
, ,

sl owl y til l ten d er take up an d cu t in to por tion s


weighing from 1 to 5 lbs cooked a n d serve d i n , ,
,
keeping them ho t i n a li t tl e sauce the sauce
al l t h e way s appl icab l e to b rook trou t .
,

they were s tewed in th en s traine d and s k i m med



G R EEN G A G E Called by t h e F r e nch Rein e “ ,

"
season ed wi th sherry wine ; serve d pou re d ove r
Cl au d e a species o f p l u m th a t when ripe r e
the bir d garn ished wi th green peas sau tée
, .

main s green ; used as a tabl e frui t in compo tes , ,

pie s j el l ies ices an d as a swee t en trée wi th B R A ISED G R O U S E WIT H G LA Z ED C AR


R O T S —T russ the bi r d s arrange i n a b r a z i e r e
, , ,

rice .
,

G R E NAD I N S —Name app l ie d to th e fricandeau


wi th sl ices o f bacon celery on ion stuck wi th , ,

cl oves bay leaves sl ices o f car ro t an d turn ip


o f veal cu t i n h alf i nch thick slices th en

, , ,

,
a bun ch of swee t herbs and parsl ey m ois ten
s t a mped ci rcular wi th a bi scui t cu t ter these ,
,

wi th game gravy sl ices o f bacon placed on the


l arde d wi th season ed s trip s o f h a m o r bacon ,

,
b i rd s an d on th e bacon a shee t of bu t tered
arranged i n a sau toi r m oi sten ed wi th a l igh t ,
pape r l id th en pu t on th e bi rds braise d t il l
.

Col ored s tron g con som m e re d uced to a h alf ,


. , ,

d on e an d gla zy ta k en up cu t in to por tions th e


glaze an d th e lar d in g i s cooked ; se rved overlap , , ,

brai se s train ed and s k i mme d then m ixed wi th


pi ng each o ther wi th a garn ish of g reen peas o r :
,

a rich brown sauce fl av ored wi t h po r t win e ;


g l a zed roo t vegetables i n forms or Wi th gu mbo ,
se r ve d wi th the sauce pou red ove r a n d gar
a n d egg pl an t or a ch i pola ta garn i sh, or wi th ,
n i s h e d wi th ball s of sau t ee d and gla zed carro ts .

smal l stu ff ed toma toes and tomato sauce or ,

wi th a Fin anci ere ga rn i sh .


R OA S T G R O U SE B R E AD S A U C E ,
The
G R IDD L E C AKES — Fo r recipes see headin g of ,
breasts Of th e bi rd l arded wi th s easone d s trips
ba t te r "
o f f a t pork , trusse d seas on e d wi th sal t an d ,
.

G R O U S E —Un d er th i s hea d i n g comes the p e ppe r ; rolled i n mel ted bu t ter then i n flo u r , ,


spruce “ " ”
ru ffled pin tail moor fow l “
c ap
l ” " roas te d an d bas ted til l d one ; se rve d wi th b read
, , ,

e r c a il z i e p rai ri e ch i ck en ” “
p tarmigan e tc .
sauce a t S ides .

ST UFFED G R OU SE MU S H R O OM S A UC E S T UFFED FI L LE T S O F G R O U S E W I TH
T h e b ird singed d ra w

,

n an d wa s h e d fil l e d wi th
, ,
'

Q U E N E L L E S Young bir d s t russed a n d _

a stu ff ing made from th e l ive r m inced on ion s ,


roasted pl ai n ta ken up and fil l e te d th e fi l l e t s
, ,

a n d mush rooms breadcru mbs bu t ter sal t an d , , ,


S prea d wi th gam e forc emea t arrange d on a ,

pepper s trips of bacon tie d over th e bre as t :


,
baking sh ee t m ois t ened a n d heated wi th game
,

roas ted ; served wi th mush roo m sauce fl avored sauce ; wh en to be se rve d di ppe d i n a game ,

wi th sherry win e .
gl az e ; serv e d on a fancy c ro fit o n wi th game
G L AZED GROU SE S A U CE T R I AN ON —T h e ,
sauce an d garn i s h ed wi th smal l game quenelles .

bi rds t russe d a n d roas te d pl ain taken up , , B R OI L E D G R O US E WIT H B AC ON— Youn g


'
q ua r tered skin removed d i pp ed i n to a g ame
, , bi r d s sin g ed spli t down th e back the back and
, ,
T H E C U LIN ARY H A ND B O OK
92 .

b reastbon e removed thigh bon e sn appe d l ai d , , fa t from the s tock po t season ed wi th sa l t ve g , ,

for h a l f a n h ou r i n ol ive o il season e d wi th , e tab l e s a n d a d ash of vi negar place i n m edi um ,

sal t an d p ep pe r b roile d ti l l don e ; served on, oven ; when abou t a th i rd d one remove the u p ,

toas t wi th s t ri ps o f b roiled bacon M ai tre , , per sk in then baste f requen tly til l don e and
,

d H Ote l bu t ter garn i shed wi th j ul ienn e po ta brown ( abou t on e h ou r i s requi red for a 7 lb
'
.
, ,

toe s . fi sh ) ; serve d i n por tion s wi th S pan ish sauce


G R O U S E C U TL E TS B R E A D CR U M B E D pou red around .

Y oun g b i r d s si nged t russed an d roas t e d ta k en , , G U AVA— Name of a Sou thern and Wes t I ndian
u p and j oin t e d sk in re moved d i pped in to a, , frui t tha t i s chiefly use d i n m ak ing p reserve s
thick cool in g rich gam e sauc e th en i n si f te d , and j el l i es Guava j ell y i s on e of the bes t to
.

b readc ru mbs ( n o t c racke r d u s t ) th e n b reade d


, , serve wi th del ica te fl avored game .

and arrang e d on a b a k in g shee t sp rinkl e d wi th , G U IN E A H EN — A domes ti c f o wl smaller th an


mel ted bu t ter pl aced i n oven bas te d and
, , th e ord inary ch icken w i th d arke r flesh o f ten , ,

bro wn ed ; served garn i shed wi th D uchesse takes th e place of par tridge ; i s bes t t o serve in
po t a toe s .
th e spring of the year wh e n game i s a bi t scarce .

G R U Y E R E O R SWIS S — N am e of an i mpor te d R O AS T L A R D ED G U I N E A H EN — The bird


cheese u sed both i n c oo k in g an d for the table ; singed an d drawn the l egs an d b reas t l ar d ed
,

i s l arge roun d t h ick and fl a t i n sh ape h as a


, , , wi th season ed s trips o f f a t pork rolled i n bu t ,

pec u l i a r n u t t y fl avor a n d wh en cu t i s found t e r e d paper b a k e d til l don e and b rown ; served


,

to b e ful l o f sm al l hol es .
wi th a brown poul t ry grav y garn ished wi th
G R OU PE R —N am e of on e of ou r Sou thern fi shes
,

,
wa tercress .

fou n d i n th ree varie ti es bl ack red an d wh i te ; , , B R O ILED G U I NE A H EN WIT H B AC ON ,

th e sh ape i s a c ross be t w een a carp an d a bas s ,


Young bi rd s singe d spl i t down the back the , ,

w eigh s from 5 to 1 0 l bs ; th e fl esh i s fi rm bu t . b reas t an d bac k bone s re moved thigh bone ,

coarse ; a s econ d cl ass fi sh . sn appe d seasoned wi th sal t a n d p epper rol l ed


, ,

B O I LE D G R O U PE R C AP E R S AU CE Th e ,
i n flou r then i n me l ted bu t ter broiled ; serve d
, ,
'
on toast wi th s tri ps of bacon M ai tre D H d te l
'

fi s h p r e p a r e d a n d bo iled i n sal ted wate r wi t h ,

a l i t tl e vinegar ( ti me to si m me r abou t 4 0 m i n bu t ter and garn ished wi th j ul ien n e pota toe s


,

u tes ) tak en u p a n d d rain e d ; served wi t h ca per


,
and watercress .

sauce and garn i sh ed wi th H o l lan d ai se po ta toe s . R OA ST G U I N EA H E N S AUC E B E ARN AI S E ,

B OIL ED G RO U PER M AT E L OT E G A R N I S H , Th e b irds singed a n d cleaned t russed sl ices of


—T h e fi sh pr ep ared an d sc ored boil ed wh ol e
, ,

, fat l ardi ng pork ti ed ove r the b reast roaste d ; ,

i n cou r t — bouil l on w i th a bunc h o f s wee t h erbs when abou t d on e th e pork removed then , ,

when d on e d rain ed ; served i n s l ices wi th a l i t quick l y browne d ; served i n por tion s garn ishe d
'

, ,

tl e l obs ter c ora l s t rewn over garn i sh ed wi th a , a t en d s o f di sh wi th fancy crou ton s and B ear ,

M ate l o te ( see garni shes ) . n aise sauce a t th e si d es .

G R O UPE R S T UFF E D AN D B AKED T O M A , B R AI SED ST U FFED G U I N E A H E N T h e m

T O S AU C E —T h e fi sh sca l ed a n d wash ed , bi r d s si n ged and d rawn fi l l ed wi th a quenell e ,

back bon e an d en trail s rem oved s tu ffed pu t , , forcemea t th e breas ts l ar d e d arrange d i n a


, ,

back i n shape a n d ti ed wi th t win e bak e d who l e , b r a i z e r wi th vege tables an d spices m ois tene d ,

wi th S l ices o f sal t por k ; se rved i n por t ion s wi th wi th s tock and wh i te win e covered wi th s t rip s ,

a s tri p of th e pork an d t oma to sauce pou red of b acon b rai sed and b as ted til l d one tak e n up
, ,

around .
the braise s trained and sk i m med then rapidl y ,

B AK E D G R OUPE R G U L F S TY L E —T h e fi sh ,
reduced to dem i gla ze wh ich i s the n ad d ed to ,

scal e d h ead re move d spli t d own th e back a nd


, ,
a Fi n anci ere garn i sh th e bi rd ser v ed who l e or ,

th e bac k bon e rem ove d l ai d ou t on g reased pan , ,


i n por tion s wi th th e garn ish aroun d .

season ed wi th m ixed pepper s a n d sal t pl aced , G U M B O —An othe r n ame for the ve ge tab l e okra
i n oven til l h ea ted th rough an d se t then taken ,

for recipe s see O K R A
ou t moi s tened w i th mel ted bu t ter re tu rn ed to
, ,
H AD D O CK— A fi sh of th e cod species bu t
oven baked wi th frequen t bas tin g til l d on e
,
small er ; when dri e d an d s mo k ed i s kn own as
a n d b rown ; served i n por tion s wi th tom a to smoke d h addock o r F innan H a d d ie fro m the ,
pu rée around a n d garn i she d wi th l em on s
, .

vi llage of F in nan n ear Aberdeen Sco tlan d , ,

G R O U P E R S AU T E L OB S T E R S AU CE T he , wh ich i s as f amous for i ts cu rin g haddocks as


fi sh p repare d cu t i n s tea k s l ai d i n season ed
, , Yarmou th i s for i ts bl oa ters .

ol ive oil sau t eed wi th i t ; when don e a n d b rown


, ,
B A KED ST U FFED HAD D O C K—Th e fi sh sca l ed
serve d wi th l obs te r co ra l s t rewn ove r the por and cleaned backbon e re moved fi lled wi th an
, ,
t ion an d l obs te r sauce around .

oys te r s tu ffing baked and basted t ill d on e ;


,

B AKED R E D G R O U PE R S PAN I S H S A UC E S erve d i n por tion s wi th a b rown oys te r sauce


—T h e fi sh cl eaned an d scored arranged i n bak
,
.

, B O ILE D H ADD O C K OY S T E R S A U CE —T h e ,

i n g pan mois tened wi th whi te s tock and some


, fi sh p repared an d cu t i n por tions boiled ti ll ,
TH E C U L I N A R Y H AN D B OOK .
93

d one i n sal ted wate r wi th a d ash of v i negar ; wi th m ilk and bu t ter ; serve d wi th a sauce made
served wi th whi te oys ter sauce and garn i she d o f mus tar d bu t ter a n d l e mon j uice m ixe d to
,

wi th Holl andaise po ta toes ( Wi th boil ed had . ge the r so tha t i t i s sof t en ough to mel t when
dock egg c ream B écha mel pars l ey sh ri mp
, , , , , , laid on th e h o t fi sh .

l obs te r c rab and Hollandai se sauces are a l so


, H AG G I S —N ame of a Scotch n a ti on a l d i sh pre
appropriate ) .
pare d by cu t ting i n to smal l pieces the hear t ,

F I LL E T S O F H ADD OC K S AUT E — T he fi sh , live r m i l t an d s k i r t toge ther wi th th e l ungs of


, ,

cleane d bone d c u t i n fi lle t s seasoned wi th


, , , a freshl y kill ed sheep ; a f ter fi rs t blanchin g a n d
sal t and pepper rolle d i n flou r s a u t é e d i n bu t , , boil i n g til l tender each separa te par t t o each ,

ter taken up gravy made i n th e pan s t rai ned


, , , , se t of hasle ts as above i s m i xed on e poun d of
the fi sh served sprin kled wi th pars l ey d us t , fi n el y chopp e d beef sue t on e half pin t e ach of ,

gravy a t the sides garn i shed wi t h Pari sienn e , m inced on ion and oa t meal seasoned w i th sal t , ,

po ta toes . red and bl ack pepper nu t meg an d l emon j uice , ,

F I L L E T S O F H AD D OC K B R E AD C R U M B the whol e thoroughl y mi xe d and moi s tene d wi th


E D D UTC H S A U C E —Prepared a n d cu t in to
,

,
a l i t t l e beef gravy the m ix ture i s then fi lled i n
,

fille t s as in the prece d ing seasoned wi th sal t ,


to a wel l c l eansed sh eep paunch sewn u p , ,

and peppe r dipped i n beaten egg then i n sifted


, ,
pricked wi th a fork to all ow air escape plunge d ,

brea d c ru mbs f ried ; se rved wi th Du tc h sauce a t ,


i n to boil ing sal ted wa ter and kep t si m meri ng ,

the sides garni shed wi th cres s and l emon


, .
t il l don e abou t two and a h al f h ours ; served
,

B R O IL ED F R ES H H ADD O C K ANC H OVY wi thou t an y garn ish .

H ALI B UT — A large fi a t fi sh of the flounder


,

B U T T E R P repared a n d cu t i n fi lle ts rolle d ,

i n fl o u r b roi l ed an d bas te d wi th bu t ter ; se rv ed


,
speci es t h e young and mediu m si zed on es b e
,
“ ”
spread wi th anchov y bu t ter garn ished wi th ,
i ng th e bes t an d kn own as C hicken hal ibu t
, .

S aratoga chips watercress and lemon sl ices , .


B OI LED H AL I B U T S TE AK C R EA M S AU C E ,

C R E AME D H ADD OC K WIT H OYS TE R S — T h e fi sh scal ed and t ri mme d cu t i n to s teaks , ,

co l d boil ed haddock i n fl akes wi thou t skin ,


si mme re d i n b o i l i n g s a l te d water con tain in g a
heated i n H oll and aise sauce wi th an equal quan dash of vinegar ; served spri nkled wi th pars l ey
ti ty o f bl anche d and d rained oys ters ; served dus t c rea m sauce a t the sid es
,
- .

piled high on toas t spri n k le d wi th parsley dus t , .


B R O IL ED H ALI B U T S TE AK T h e s teaks sea -

B AKED FI N N AN H AD D I E B UT T E R S AU C E s o n e d wi th sal t a n d peppe r rolled i n fl ou r then , ,


,
'
- T h e fi sh t ri m med and skin ne d arranged i n ,
i n o l ive oi l b roiled ; served wi th mai t r e d h 6te l
,

a b akin g pan wi th a l i t t l e wa ter pl aced i n oven ,


b ut te r garn ished wi th watercress an d l emon
, ,

till se t water then poured o fi seasone d wi th some ti mes wi th a s trip of br oi l ed bacon .

B OI L E D H ALI B U T —T h e fi sh scal ed and t ri m


, ,

pepper m ois tened wi th bu t te r sauce baked ;


, ,

served wi th the sauce garni shed wi th parsley m e d cu t in to por ti ons boi l ed i n sal ted wa ter

, , ,

and c rou ton s . wi t h a d ash of v inegar ; se rved wi th ei the r l ob


F I NN A N H AD D I E S A U T E PAR S L E Y S A U C E s te r clam c rea m o r H ol landaise sauce s
, , .

B A KED H AL I B U T E G G S A U C E — T he fi sh
,

— The fi sh skinned and t ri m me d l ai d i n warm ,


,

water for a fe w m in u tes then sau t ee d wi th bu t ,


scale d a n d t ri m med c u t i n to por tion s arrange d , ,

ter : se rved on toas t wi th parsley bu t ter sauce i n ba k in g pan seasoned wi th sal t and pepper
, ,

poured ove r garn ish wi th wa te rcress , .


moi s tened wi th m i lk a n d bu t ter baked and ,

F I N N AN H ADD I E B OI LED C R E AM S A UC E bas ted til l don e ; serve d wi th eg g sauce g arn


-

—T h e fi sh s k in ned and t ri m me d l aid i n warm


,

i s h e d wi th S l ices of hard boi led eggs .

wa ter fo r an hour wash ed then pu t to boil i n , ,


FR I ED H AL I B U T S T E AK WIT H B A C ON ,

cold wa ter ; served wi th cream sauce poured Sl ices of bacon blanched then fri e d the s teak s , ,

ove r garn ished wi th Hol l an d ai se po ta toes S easoned wi th sal t an d peppe r roll ed i n flou r , ,
, .

'
then dipped in to bea ten eggs fri ed a go l den
F I N N AN H AD D I E B AKED WIT H T OM A , ,

T OE S —The fi sh skinne d an d t ri m med l aid i n


bro wn in the bacon fat ; served wi th s t rips of
warm wa ter for an h ou r was hed blanch ed
,
bac on .

H AL I B UT ST E A K S AUT E T OM A T O S AU C E
.
, ,

c u t i n por tion s ar ranged i n bakin g pan wi th



,
,

T h e s teak s s e a s o n e d ; w i th sal t a n d pepper


sl ice d pee l ed toma toes mince d fri ed shal l o ts
'

.
,
,

an d chopped parsl ey baked ; se rved on toas t rol le d in flou r slowly sau t ee d a go l den col or
,

wi th t h e tomatoes around .
wi th bu t te r ; served wi th a sauce c ompos e d o f
e q ua l par ts of toma to purée and toma to ca tsup
F I NN AN H AD D I E B R O I L E D L o B s T E R
.

,
C RE AM ED H ALI B U T WIT H M U S H R O O M S
B UT T ER—T h e fi sh skinned tri mme d bl an ch — Flake s of c old boiled halibu t m ixed wi th
ed d ried seasoned w
, ,

, i th pe p pe r r o l l e d in ol ive
, L
s l ices of sau t eed bu t ton m ush rooms moistene d ,
oil broi l ed served on toas t sp read wi th l ob
, , ,
wi th B éch amel sauce fill ed i n to deep ova l o r ,
ster bu t ter ga rn ished wi th waterc ress
,
scallop di shes sprin kl ed wi th b readcru mbs and
. .

FI N NAN H ADD I E B A KED A B E R D E E N m e l t e d b u t te r, baked a d el icate b rown and


STY L E —The fis h s ki n n e d and tri m med baked
'
,

‘ , s er v ed .
94 T H E C U L I N ARY H AND B OO K .

H AM —A l eg o f p ork sal ted and smoke d H ams . H A M B U R GE R — O r H amb u r g s teaks are m i nced
to be boi le d steame d or baked should be s o a k ed
, , beef wi th a l i t tle on i on a S ti s p i c i o n o f garl ic , ,

overnigh t in col d wa te r thoroughl y scrubbe d , sal t and peppe r season ing frie d or b roile d , an d ,

i n the morn ing a n d when cook in g shoul d be ,


s erved ei th e r p l ain or wi th an y o f th e sauces

al lo we d 2 0 m i nu tes ti me for each poun d i n “

appropria te to s tea k s .

weigh t I f to be k ep t f o r servin g when cold


.
, T O M AT OE D H A M B U R G E R — The same as
they should be allo we d to cool i n the wate r a b ove bu t freel y mix ed wi th raw to m a to mea t ~

they Were boiled i n as tha t keeps the m m oi s t , f ree d fro m sk i n a n d see d s ; should be s e rve d
d o w n to t h e las t cu t ting even for a wee k or , wi th to mato sauce .

mo re .
H A R E—Prac tically t he d ark flesh e d rabbi t wh ich
'

S T EW E D H AM WI T H S PINA C H —T h e ham a t tain s a l arger si ze t h an th e Co m mo n o r wh i te


p repare d an d s teamed as di rec ted above ta k en , fleshed on e and whic h i s al so O f superi or fla
,

u p Sk in ne d ; serve d i n sl ices on a b e d of spi n


, vo r .

We co m mon l y c al l i t the j ac k rab b i t
ach wi th b rown sauce a t sides .
T h e s teward should wa tch to b uy youn g on e s
B O I LE D H AM WI T H LI M A B E AN S —S oak e d on ly ; an Ol d or sof t l im p on e i s beyon d t he
overnigh t sc rubbe d boile d f o r 2 0 m inu tes t o
, ,
che f s i ngenui ty to p repar e f o r tabl e se rv i ce

the poun d ; ser ved in sl ices wi th a garn i sh of a n d give th e pa tron age sa ti sfac tion ; the yo un g

fresh l i m a bean s i n bro wn sauce . on es are EAS ILY tol d by tearin g the ears wi th
R O AS T H AM C H A M PAGN E S A U CE — The ,
the thumb and fi nger I F T H E Y D O N O T ,

ham prepare d then s teame d t wo thir d s of i t s - T E A R E AS ILY L E AVE T H E M AL ON E , .


,

co o k in g ti me tak en up and S kinne d pl aced i n S T U FFE D S AD DL E O F H A R E WI T H ] ELLY


—T h e sad d l e f rom th e S houl d ers to th e legs
, ,

baking pan i n m ed i u m oven baked a n d bas ted , ,

t ill d one ; bu t fi ve minu tes befo re t akin g up ,


cu t in halves across making t wo por tions bone d , ,

spri n k le wi th sugar to n icely gl a z e i t ; serve wi th s tu ff ed wi th game o r o ther f orce mea t ti e d ,

C hampagn e sauce at si d es . roun d wi th twi n e arrange d i n ba k in g pan each , ,

R OA S T S T U FFED H AM —T h e h am p repare d ,
piece covered wi th a sl ice of f a t po rk roaste d ,

and bas ted t il l d one tak en up l i t tl e b rown


then bon ed th e bone hol es fi ll ed wi th por k


,
, ,

force me a t drawn toge ther and t ied wi th s tring


,
sauce a d d ed to th e pan b oil e d up s t rain e d a n d , ,

then sewn i n a c l o th s team e d two th i rd s o f i ts ,


- ski m me d then poured to the b a r e ; served wi th
,

coo k in g t i m e then fi n i shed in m e d iu m ov e n


,
red curran t j ell y a n d garn i she d wi th f ancy
c r o fit o n s
a f te r re mov ing Cl o th an d s k in ; served wi th cel
.

e ry sauce or sauce flavore d wi th ce l ery sal t .


FI L LE T S O F H A R E P O IV R AD E S AU C E ,

B R AI SED H AM WI T H VEG ETAB L E S — Pre T h e l egs a n d sad d les marin a d ed for t w o hours
pare d bone d and s tu fle d as in th e p receding
, ,
i n a l i t tle wh i te win e wi th S l ice s o f car ro t a n d
t ie d i n a cl oth a n d boile d till wi th in hal f an h ou r on ion sal t pepper a n d n u tmeg th e wh ol e then
, , ,

o f i ts coo k ing t i me then tak en up cl o th a n d , ,


pl aced in a sau toi r w i th a l i t tl e fa t por k l i d ,

S k in re moved place d in a bra zier wi th a p i n t o f


,
pu t on pl aced i n h o t oven roas te d and baste d
, ,

M adei ra wine rapidly brai se d a n d bas te d til l ,


till don e abou t 4 5 mi nu tes t ak en u p poi vra d e
, , ,

d on e a n d th e wi ne reduce d taken up E s p a g , ,
sauce a d ded to th e residue boil e d up s train e d , ,

n ol e sauce ad d e d to th e b rai se wi th a l i t tl e cur a n d ski mmed ; serve d w i th the fi lle ts garn ished ,

r en t j elly boile d up s trained a n d s k i m med ;


, ,
wi th c r o fit o n s .

the h am se rved i n sl ices wi th th e sauce ov er or B R A I S E D H A R E W I T H G A M E CR O


u nd er garn ished wi th gl azed roo t veg e tables
,
.
Q UE T T E S T h e l eg s and s ad d l es p repared as
-

C R O Q U ETT E S O F H AM WI T H G R EE N
'

i n the prece d ing th e fo re quar ters o f th e b a r e ,


.

PE A S —Col d coo k e d ham fi nely cu t t wo thi r d s -


,
used to make th e c roque t tes ; serve d the fil l e t s ,

m ixe d wi t h one th ir d o f f re sh mashe d po tatoes - on a fan cy b e d of mash ed po ta toes the auce ,


s

an d a f e wegg yol k s season ed wi th n u t meg an d ,


ar oun d garn i shed wi th th e croquet tes
,
.

T he
'
pepper rolled i n to the d esi red shape breaded
, , ,
C IVE T O F H AR E H UN TE R S S TY LE ,

f ried ; serve d su rrounded wi th green peas i n sh oul d ers are th e b es t for t h is d i sh S l ices of ,

V é l o u té sauce .
baco n bl anche d then cu t in to even si zed s mall ,

M I N CED H AM WI T H E G G —Co l d h am tri m pieces a n d fri ed the b a r e rol le d i n fl our an d ,

m ings m in ced mi xed wi th a seas on in g Of ,


’ ’

f rie d ligh tl y i n the bacon fa t bo th t h en pu t i nt o a ,

m ince d a n d f ried shal l ots parsley Cay enn e


, ,
sau toi r ; t o th e re mai ning f a t fl ou r i s a d d ed t o '

a n d a li ttl e h o rseradish mus tard m oi s tene d ,


f or m a rou x m ois t en e d wi th s toc k a n d r e d
,

wi th a l i t tle sauce or gravy thor oughly hea ted ; ,


wi n e boil e d u p sk i m m e d then s t rain ed over
, , ,

serve d h eape d h igh on b u t te r e d t o a s t wi th a ,


the mea t t o wh ich i s ad d e d a bunch o f sw ee t
,

poache d egg on top or garn i shed wi th sl ices of ,


herbs pa rsl ey on ion s sa l t pepper a n d a f e w
, , , ,

ho t h ard boile d eggs C ream ed youn g c ar ro ts .


,
who l e cloves si m mered till d on e h are a n d , ,

Parisi enn e vege tables j ardi n i ere an d aspara ,


bacon then taken up i n to th e servi n g pan the ,

sa u ce fur ther th ick ene d wi th the l iver ma d e in ~


, '

gus tips a l so make a d esi rab l e garn i sh for th is


.

d i sh .
to a pas t e and the b l ood ( i t m us t n o t be boiled
, ,
T H E C U L I NARY H AND B O OK
96
.

H I C K ORY—N ame of one o f th e com mon n u ts in g l i q u or pou red ou t the cup s then rep l aced , ,

also called P ecan s ; u sed i n cake mak i n g d ecor so a s t o sol i d i f y the par t where the l iqui d r e ,

a ting fl avoring e tc
, , .
m ain ed th e c u ps then t u rn ed ou t fi lle d wi th , ,


H OE C AKE S Name of a S ou th ern pancake ma e d an y form of ice d i ff eren t in col or to th e c u p .

Of ground mai ze sal t and wa ter O R A N G E I C E S — O ra n ges wi th a sl ice cu t t o


.
,

H OT POT O R H OTC H P OT C H — A soup s tew fo rm a l i d th e in terior a n d pi th scooped ou t , ,

m ad e and bake d i n a po t as follows : tak e a th e skin s then soake d i n water for an hou r ,

l arge e a r t h e r n crock i n to i t pu t fou r l b s of ,


then d ried an d filled wi th o rang e wa te r ice .

lean beef t rim m ings cu t in to inch p ieces on e mi xed wi th F ren ch frui ts glaces that have been ,

lb o f sm all ball s of pork sau sage m ea t on e


.
soaked in a l iqueur ; they are then f rozen and ,

half a cupfu l of sl iced on i on s on e c pful each


u
served .


,

of sl iced an d peel e d cucumbe rs car ro ts a n d I M P E R IAL I C E S I ce cups made as above


, ,

asparagus poi n ts on e pi n t each of g reen peas


,
th en fi lle d wi th s t rawber ry water ice fl avore d
an d s k i nn ed toma toes a h andfu l o f w ash ed wi th ch ampagne Pineappl e Water Ice flavored

,

rice on e cupful of chopped green peppers an d


,
wi th S an ta C ru z ru m Cherry Wa ter Ice fla
a smal l hear t of cabbage sh re d d ed season wi th ored wi th N o ye a u x e tc ,
,
.

sal t and pepper ( N O S PI CE S ) a d d fou r gal FAN C Y WA T E R I C E S — Free ze so l idly al l form s


,

lon s of col d w a ter p l ace on the crock cover o f wa ter ices i n equal quan ti ties such as N u t ,
, ,

pu t i n a mo d era te Ov en a t 6 a m a n d i t wil l b e C ream Ice M ad eira Ice C lare t Ice Pis tachio
. . , , ,

rea d y for 1 2 o cl ock d inn er ’


C ream Raspber ry an d S trawberry Wate r Ices
. , ,

Ano ther h o t po t i s m a d e wi th sc rags o f mu t ton C ura c oa C ream Ice O range an d Lemon I ces , ,

in stea d of th e bee f a n d po r k sub s ti tu ting l ee k s C herry Wa ter Ice C a ram e l C rea m Ice e tc , , .
,
,

an d barley for th e peppers an d rice then fi ll in d ividual fo rm s i n sh.


apes of frui t an d

flowers close th e mol d s pac k freez e turn ou t


H OM INY —I S hull ed mai z e marke ted in d i ffer ,
, , , ,

en t g ra d es as to si z e ; th e l a rge i s gen e rall y an d serve .


kn own as hull e d corn i s boil ed l ike rice a n d Th e same to be don e w i th all kin d s of ice
served w i th m ilk ; or boil e d very soft turn ed c ream s such as Van il l a Che rry C hocolate ,
, , ,

T e a C o fi e e C u rran t G rape C hes tn u t Al mon d


ou t in to a bu t tered pan when co l d cu t i n to , ,


, , , , , ,

s trips roll e d i n fl ou r ( neve r bread i t ) fri ed a Pistach io N o ye a u x fi lle d in to in d ivi d ual forms ,
, ,

d elica te b rown E an d serve d ei ther as a garnis h of fr u i t a n d fl owers vege tables e tc the i d ea , ,


,

or f o r b reakfas t wi th m ap l e syrup Whe n bein g t o h ave v a r i ga t e d col ors fl avors and .


,

b oil i n g hom in y which i s t o b e frie d al ways a d d shapes ,


.

t owa r d s the fi n ish some fl ou r a s tha t wi ll h ol d I C E D S N OWB AL LS — R i ce boile d very tender


, , ,

i t t oge th er an d s top i t from breaking a n d spi t i n wa ter swee ten e d fl avore d wi th orange or , ,

ti n g when being f ri ed .l em on j uice fro zen i n th e shape of balls then , ,

B OI L ED H OM IN Y—A breakfas t cereal : fi n e t ak en ou t rolle d i n wh ipped c ream s erved i f , ,

h omi n y soa k ed ove r n igh t boil ed for two hours possible i n a sh al low green gl ass d ish th e top ,
,

i n a fari a ke t tl e ; served wi th cream an d sugar


n o f th e bal l spar ingl y spot ted wi th green pi s ta .


H OM INY C R O Q U E TT E S T h e prece d in g when ch io grating s .

boil ed mi x e d wi th a l i t tle grate d cheese a n d N E APO L I T AN B R I C KS — B rick mold s fi lle d i n


flou r bea ten egg yolk s sal t an d r e d peppe r
,
thre e color s O f ic e c ream o r on e of t he m m ay
, ,

pou red in t o bu t te re d pan wh en col d m ad e i n b e wa ter ice so as wh en o u t to sh ow th ree d i s


, ,
,

t o form b readed an d fried


,
ti nc t l ayers frozen sol id turn e d ou t o u t i n
. , , ,

H O R S E R AD I S H — Nam e of a pu n gen t root sl ices ,


.

grate d fi n e an d u se d a s a table con d imen t a n d I CED F R OTH S — Fan cy sh ape d g l asses fi ll ed ,

i n fl avori n g sauces ; as a c o n d i m e n t i s bes t a s wi th wh ippe d c ream pil ed h igh swee ten ed


'

. , ,

foll ows : O n e pi n t o f g ra te d h orsera d ish on e frozen ; served i n the same g l asses ,


.

h al f a p in t of wh i te win e v inegar sal t l i t tl e I R I S H M OS S —An e d ibl e seaweed gela tinous , ,


, ,

suga r m i x and use


, .
reddi sh b rown i n col or good for those wi th ,

H O R SE R AD I S H B U TT E R E qua l par ts of del icat e diges tion s i n blan c mange cream s -


, ,

gra te d h orsera d ish a n d bu t ter well pou n d e d to fla w n s farin as e tc , ,


.

ge th er wi th a season ing O f sal t a n d lemon j uice I I S H T E V V— T he n eck chops of mu t ton t h a t


R S ,

th en rubb ed th rough a fi n e sieve ; serve d sprea d


a r e under th e sh oulder tri mm ed gristle t e , ,

Over broiled s teak s .

m ov ed b oiled wi th th e S hank s from the l egs


I CE S — T hese incl u d e sh erbe ts c ream ices water
,

and shoul d e rs a n d oth er mu t ton t ri mm ings till


, ,

ices e tc i n in fi n i te varie t ies


,
.
, h a l f don e ta k en u p a n d s tewed wi th po tatoes
.

C U P I CE S — S mal l fl u ted cup s o r glasses fille d an d on ion s till tender in th e s train ed a n d


wi th frui t sy rup s an d p l aced i n a la rge tub o r ski m med s tock from th e boi l in g season ed wi th ,

tray w i th poun d e d ic e a n d sal t a rou n d t h e m


,
sal t a n d peppe r l igh t l y th ickened ; served sprink ,

w hen frozen a su ffi ci en t thickn ess t h e rem ai n l ed wi th chopped pars l ey ,


.
TH E C U L I N A RY HAND B O O K .
97

I S I NG L AS S —A form of ge l a tin e prepared from A PR I C OT ] ELLY — S tock j ell y fl avored wi th


the swi m blad d e r of th e s turgeon ; more e x p e n m ar asch in o th e mold filled w i th i t a n d halves
,

sive than ge l a tin e wi thou t any appreciable be t of peele d aprico ts .

te r resul ts .
M AC E D O IN E ] E L L Y— S tock j elly flavore d wi th
J A RD IN I E R E N ame appl ied to a garn ish of -
marasch in o the mold fi lled wi th i t a n d s mall
,

small cu t m ixed vege tabl es such as carro ts , , wh ole frui ts .

turn i ps asparagu s tips cauliflowe r s tringl ess


, , R U S S IAN J E L LY— S tock j ell y fl avore d wi th
bean s and some green peas coo k ed 1n season e d , l iqueu r then wh ippe d to a f r oth on ice fil le d
, ,

bro th d rain ed ; served plain or tossed wi th half


, in to mold s and se t .

gla z e or mea t gravy .


P I STAC H I O ] E L LY — S toc k j elly fl avored wi th
J E LLY — A c l arifie d ge l atinou s combin a tion of , D a n t z i c bran d y mol d fi lled half an inch d eep
, ,

sugar wa ter spices and colorings flavored


, , , S hredded pis tachios then s trewn in th e mold ,

wi th wine frui t j uices e tc ; al so ma d e fro m


, ,
.
then fi lle d i n wi th layers o f j el l y s trewn wi th
'
cal f s fee t ( see cal f ) T o m ake the s tock j ell y .
pis tach ios .

use 2 q ts o f wa te r o r frui t j uices 3 oz s of


.
,
.
O R ANG E J EL LY— When making the s tock j ell y
dissol ved gela tin e the gra te d rin d an d j uice of ,
add th e gra te d rin d s of orange s a n d a l i t tle
4 l emon s I l b o f gran ul a ted sugar the b ro k e n
, .
,
coch in eal t o g ive i t the orange tin t ; when don e
wh i tes a n d sh el ls o f 6 eggs m i x well bring to , ,
an d s traine d fi ll in to m olds , .

the si m mer ; a f ter i t co a gulates allow the scu m ,


LEM ON J E L LY— M ade the sam e as orange j ell y
t o assum e a grey colo r so as to per f ec tly clar ,
excep t use gra te d lemon rinds an d om i t the ,
i ty
, then st rai n th rough a flan ne l bag th ree
coch in ea l
ti mes a n d use for the following :
.

F R U I T J E L LY—S tock j elly fl avore d wi th sh erry


J U L IENN E Nam e appl ied to a garn ish of
sh re d d e d roo t vege tabl es al so to S h redde d
win e fancy molds fi ll e d an in ch deep allowe d
, ,
,

to se t then fru i t arra n ged as a bor d e r ; i f cur pota toes .

J U N IPE R — Name of a b l ue berry u sed for flav


,

ran ts o r grapes arranged i n bunches ; mol d s


then gra d ual ly fi lled w i th limpid j ell y a n d se t .
oring gi n ; also a d d s a n ic e flavo r t o corned
m ea t wh en a musl in b a gful of crushed berries
WE S T I ND I A N J ELLY— S toc k j el ly s t ron gl y
i s a d d e d t o th e brin e
fl avored wi th J amaica ru m fancy mol d s fill e d .

KA LE — A vege table i n appearance l i k e end ive


,

an i n ch d eep a n d all owe d t o se t sl ices O f ,


,

ban anas an d sec ti on s o f seed ed oranges then an d i n taste l ike green cabbage cooke d the ,

arra n ged as a border j ellied an d se t th e m ol d same as spin ach .

, ,

then fi lled wi th l impid j ell y se t turn ed ou t an d , ,


K H U L AS H O R G OU L AS H — Nam e of a ragou t
served . much es teeme d b y th e Hungari an s ; m ade by
R IB B O N J E L L Y— S tock j elly i n three par ts on e ,
ta k in g p iec es Of beef an d sau t eeing the m wi th
co l ore d wi th s trawberry j uice on e wi th cara ,
on i on s i n bu t te r seasonin g wi th sal t a n d pap
,

m el an d fl avo red wi th brandy th e thi rd ,


ri k a m oi s tened wi th brown sauce si m me red
, ,

whipped t o a f ro th on ice a n d fl avored wi th ,


til l tende r ; served garn ished wi th Ho ll andaise
benedic tin e arra n ge d in molds wi th six l ayer s
, ,
or Parisien ne pota toes .

each to b e se t before the o the r i s pu t in com , K ID N E Y S — R ecipes w il l be foun d under the


mence wi th th e red th en the w h ipped an d , , n am e of th e an i mal to which i t bel on gs .

las tl y the caramel T hese th ree color s an d .

KING F I S H —N ame o f a S ou t h e rn fi sh exquisi te ,


flavors look we l l i n th ree t riangles as follows : i n flavor an d o f a n ice si ze fo r res tauran t and
,
ho l d the mold so tha t you for m a triangl e shape c l ub service .

o f r e d j ell y se t tha t th en reverse the side a n d


, ,

form a triangle wi th the carame l tha t l eaves a B OILED K IN G FI S H SA UC E N O R MAND E ,


,
T h e fi sh p repared boile d in sal te d wa ter wi th
wedge sh ape fro m the tip t o the base then fi l l ,
,

up wi th th e wh ipped j ell y .
a d ash O f vin egar when d one d rain e d ; served , ,

wi th N o rm an d e sauce garni sh e d wi th Hollan ,

PINE APPL E J E L LY S tock j e ll y flavored wi th dai se potatoes .

n o eau x
y th e mold fi lled wi th i t an d p ieces of
K IN G F I S H WIT H F IN E HE R B S —Prepared
,

pineapple .

an d t ri mme d arrange d in bu ttered ba k ing pan


ST R AWB ER RY J E L LY —S tock j e ll y flavored
, ,

bak ed an d baste d wi th bu t te r ; served wi th fin e s


wi th s trawberry j uice the mold fi lled wi th i t ,
h erbes sauce garn ished wi th j ulienne pota toes .
,
and whole strawber ries .

B R O ILE D KI NG F I S H L E M ON B U T T E R
RAS PB E R RY J ELL Y— S tock j elly flavored wi th
,

Prepa red an d t ri mme d spl i t down the fron t , ,


r e d raspberry j uice the mol d fi lle d wi th i t and ,
l aid open an d the backbon e rem ove d seasoned ,
whol e raspberries .
wi th sa l t a n d pepper roll ed i n flou r brushed
B L A C KB E RR Y JELLY —Fo r th is use a border
, ,

wi th bu t ter broiled an d basted til l don e ; served


,

mold an d wh en turned ou t fi l l the cen tre wi th


, , spread wi th M ai tre D H Ot e l bu t ter garn ished ’
,

wh ipped cre a m .
wi th chip potatoes l emon and pars l ey , .
98 T H E C U L I N ARY H ANDB O O K
K I N G FI SH S A UT E S A U C E C OL B ERT , S A U T E O F L AM B —T he shou l de r bon ed and
Boneless S ides of t h e fi sh season ed w i t h sa l t cu t i n to n ea t pi eces sau t eed wi th minced

and pepper rolled i n flou r sau t ee d wi th bu t te r


, , on i on s a n d a fl avorin g of garl i c i n bu t ter r aw ,

a del ica te brown ; served wi th C olber t sauc e and sk inn ed tom atoes c u t i n h al ves a n d l igh t l y

garn i shed wi th C ol be r t p ota toe s . f ri ed wi th bu t ter taken u p an d a d d e d t o th e


,

F R I E D FIL LET S O F K I NG FI S H B R E AD ,
l amb th e wh ole th en cooked for 2 0 m inu te s ;
,

C R U M B ED — B on el ess sides of th e fi sh sea ser ved garn ished wi th fa n cy crou ton s .

soned wi th s al t an d peppe r roll ed i n fl our , ,


B L AN Q U E T T E O F L AM B —T h e b reas t o r
d ipped i n beaten eggs then breadcrumb s fried ; , ,
bon e d shoulder cu t i n n ea t pi eces season ed wi th ,

served wi th M ai tre D H Ote l b u t ter garn ished ’


,
sal t and wh i te peppe r rolled i n flou r quic k ly , ,

wi th l emon an d parsl ey .
w i thou t col orin g sau t é the m wi th bu tter a n d a
,

K I R SC HWASS E R N am e of a l i q ueu r made few m inced shall ots take up in to a sau toi r mak e , ,

fro m che rry j uice ; ob tained by c rush in g th e a c ream sauce i n th e bu t ter e tc they were ,
.
,

fru i t s tones and kernel s t hen ferm en ting ; u sed


, ,
sau t eed i n s t rain ove r th e l amb sim mer t il l
, ,

a s a fl a v o r i n g t o sherbe ts cak es ic i n g s ices , , ,


don e add in g som e bu t ton mush rooms and a l i t tl e
,

an d con fec t ion ery .


ch opped parsley ; serve i n a cassero l e o r wi th a ,

K O H L R A B I — N am e of the cabbage turn ip ; may


-
borde r of fancy m ash ed po tatoes .

be peel ed b oil ed m ashed a n d season e d sam e E PI GRA M M E O F L AM B — B reas ts of l amb


, ,

as tu rn ip ; o r as i s bes t peel ed cu t i n qu ar t
, , ,
si mmered i n seasoned wh i te s tock till th e bon es
e r s boiled i n sal ted w ate r til l don e
, d r ai n ed , ,
are easil y removed ( keepin g th e l i t tl e rib bon es )
then si m m e red i n bu t ter sauce a f e w m in u te s p res s th e b reas ts ; w h en cold tri m an d cu t ,

before serv i n g .
in to cu tle t shapes poin t th e ri b bon es an d i n
,

K OU M I S S—A m ilk prepara tion tastin g l ike bu t


ser t in to th e p i eces of l amb b rea d an d fry one ,

t e r m il k used as a h eal th b everage ; m a d e b y


hal f of th em rol l i n fl ou r and sau té wi th bu t te r
,
,

fi l ling qu ar t cham pagn e bo t tl e s u p t o th e n eck th e o the r h al f ; se rved a t th e side of a c r o fis ta d e


w i th p u re m ilk t o w hich i s a d d ed a syrup m ade
fi l led w i th ga rn ish a n d a sauce a t th e si d es ;
,

b y d isso l ving t wo tabl espoon fu l s o f w hi te the sau t eed on e should be brushed wi th l igh t .

suga r i n on e o f wa ter also of a z cen t cake -


colored gla ze ; th e c r o fis ta d e m a y be fi ll ed wi th
,

O f yeas t ; co rked and ti ed secu rel y sha k en we l l


T oulouse garn ish sau t eed l amb f ries m ac é
, ,
, ,
d o i n e of vege tables g reen peas asparagus tips
s tood f o r si x h ou rs i n a warm room th en coo l ed ,
, , ,

overnigh t b y pl acin g i n ice box .


bu t ton m u sh rooms d iced l amb sweetb read s o r
,

K R O MES KIE S —
b rain s e tc .

F R IC AS S EE O F L AM B —B reas t of l amb cu t
,
N am e appl ied t o an y form of
c roque t te m i x tur e m ade i n to for m of cork s ,

fi nge r l eng ths w rapped i n a th i n S h avi n g o f i n to nea t pieces seasoned wi th sa l t and pepper
, ,
,

col d boil ed bacon d i pped i n b at ter an d f ri ed rol led i n fl ou r sau t eed l igh tl y wi th bu t ter
, ,

K U M M E L —Na me of a l iqueu r p repared f r om


, .

tak e n up i n to a sau toi r m oi sten ed wi th th in ,

c u mi n and c araway seeds i n s wee ten ed spi ri t .


wh i te sauce si mm ered til l don e ski m med
, , ,

R OAST L AM B —An y j oi n t roas ted a quar te r of sauc e then th icken ed wi th a l iai son o f egg
an hou r to eac h pound i n weigh t i n a m e d iu m yolk s an d c ream season ed wi th n u t me g an d
,

Oven ; m us t b e frequen t l y bas ted ; abou t 1 0 cayenn e ; serve d wi th a garn ish of green peas ,

m in u tes before taki n g u p sh oul d be d redged i nver ted m olds of d ry boil ed rice macedoi n e of ,
,

wi th flou r and bas ted wi th me l ted b u t te r so a s v ege tabl es .

C U R R I E D L AM B —COM roas t l amb c m i n to


,

t o ta k e on a del ica te color ; s erved e i the r w i th


m in t sauce o r c urran t j el ly i n separa te d ishes ,
n ea t piece s wi th th e ski n removed ; cu rry sauce
wi th a spoon f u l of gravy under the mea t .
m ade fro m l amb o r m u t ton s toc k si m mere d i n ,

B RAI S E D L AM B — T h e sh oulder l i fted o ff an d i t t il l tho roughl y h eated ; se rved wi thin a bor


bon e d l eavin g th e S h an k for a h an d le l ay i t
,
der of d ry boiled r ice .

ou t fl a t season wi th sa l t and pepper spread


, ,
C U R R I E D LAM B Rack of l amb c u t i n to chops ,

wi th forcem ea t rol l u p t i e i n n ea t shap e


, , ,
tri m med sau t eed wi th m inced shallo ts taken
, ,

braise i t w i th vege tables ; se rved wi th th e u p i n t o a sau toi r sp rinkl ed wi th fl ou r an d


,

s trained an d ski m m ed braise o r w i th a garn ish cu rry powder seasoned wi th sal t l e mon j u ice
of tu rn ed vege tables—green peas g l azed col
, , ,

,
an d a dash of cayen ne mois tened wi th wh i te ,

umu s of turn ips s tuff ed egg pl an t an d ok ras


, ,
s tock si mme red w i th a sprig O f green m in t til l
,

B russe l s sprou ts M il an aise garn ish as p aragus


, , ,
don e m in t then removed ; served wi t h i n a bor
,

l arded l am b s swee tb rea d s e tc


, . der of rice po ta toes green peas bu t ton m ush


, , ,

B O IL E D LAM B — Th e l egs si m m ered i n wh i te room s e tc , .

stock wi th a bunc h of s wee t h erbs til l don e ,


ST E W E D L AM B —Scrag of l amb an d th e chops
al lowin g 1 2 m i n u tes to th e p oun d ; se rved wi th from un d e r th e shoul d er cu t i n n ea t pieces ,

c ream sauce cape r sauce spin ach purée s o rre l


, , , si m mered i n wh i te s tock till don e sauce m ade ,

pu rée h arico ts ver ts sh red wax or s tring l ess


, , O f the b ro th ; serve d wi th a sprinkl in g of pars

b e an s macedoine of vege tab l es asparagu s ti p s


, , . l ey and a garn i sh of vege tables .
100 THE C U L I N ARY H AND B O OK .

L E M ON S—Th i s c oun try c on su me s i n a year


'

ch in e e n ough of i t worked in t o a V él o u té sauce


,

abou t l e mon s or abou t s i x an d a ,


t o give a p ronounced flavor ; used for boi l ed
-

h al f lem on s for each m an wom an an d ch i l d ,


. capon s ch icken s tur k ey and fi sh
, , .

T h e C al i f orn ia l emon s are very good on es a n d , L E M ON T R I F LE— S m a l l gl asses w i th a piece


onl y exper ts c an tel l th em from the M e d i te r of sp on ge cak e a t bo t tom spread w i th l e mon ,

r a n e a n crop F or cul in ary purposes the l emon s


. m arm a l ade th e glass then fi lled u p high wi th
,

of S icil y i e f ro m M essin a and Pal ermo are


, . . , whipped cream th a t is swee tened and flavored
to b e preferred as th ey possess a much be t ter wi th n u tm e g and th e g rated rinds and j uice of
,

fl avor A box of l e mon s averages abou t 3 00


. l emon s .

eac h F rom
. to boxes are L E M O N D U M P L I N G S —4 l bs of gra ted bread
sol d i n a year h ere I t i s p re d ic ted tha t th e .

c rumbs 2 l b s o f fi n ely chopped b eef sue t 2


,
.

C al ifor n i a c rop w il l soon average


l bs o f powdered sugar, grated rin d s a n d ju 1c e
.

boxes I t wil l be i n teres tin g t o n o te wh e ther


.
o f eigh t l emon s ; rin d s crumb s sue t an d sugar , ,

th ey w il l d rive ou t an y o r all Of t he fo reign m i xe d togeth er d r y th e whol e then boun d wi th ,


l e mon s T hey are u sed by th e ca te ri n g frater
,
the l emon j u ice m ixed wi th 1 8 bea ten yolks of
n i t y i n l arge q uan ti t i es for fl avorin g an d gar
eggs ; f or m in to du mpling S hapes boil in a clo th , ,

mi shing soups sauces sa l ads m ea ts fi sh pi es , , , , , ,


or s tea m t il l don e ( steam in g i s bes t ) ; se rve wi th
pu d d ings cakes j el l ie s ex t rac ts con f ec tion ery
, , , , ,
a swee t l e mon fl avore d c ream sauce .

m i xin g wi th d rin ks ices so rbe ts c ream s e tc


L E N T I L S — N am e of a browni sh red fl a t t e d
.
, , , ,

L E M ON M AR M AL AD E — Th ree dozen l emon s ,


,

smal l p ea cul tiva ted on the E uropean con ti


thei r equal weigh t i n gran ul a te d s u gar l emon s ,
,

n en t a n d Asi a as a food ; i t i s a mos t n ou ri sh ing


h alved and their j uice ex t rac te d and s train e d ,
ar ticle con tain ing abou t twice as much n ouri sh
th e rin d s b oil ed t ill tender i n pl en ty of wa ter ,
,

m en t as m ea t
th en d rain ed pi th scooped ou t th e s k in s thon
.

, ,

fi n el y sh red th e j uice an d sugar th en boiled t o


,
L E N T I L S O U P Len til s boi l ed t il l don e i n s e a-

a sy rup a f ter wh ich i s a d d ed th e sh redded s o n e d wh i te s tock l igh tl y th icken ed wi th roux ,


,

sk i n s boil i n g con t in u ed t il l reduced to the


,
season ed wi th sal t peppe r tom ato ca tsup ; , ,

m arm al a d e consis tency ; used f o r s t eam ed roly served wi th c rou ton s .

p oly pud d in gs t a r t l e t t e s l ayer cakes e tc e tc


, , ,
.
, . LEN T I L S O U P — L en ti l s boi l ed ti ll tender i n
L E M O N M I N CE M E AT U s e fu l for m i nce pies m wh i te s tock wi th l eek s celery parsley a n d a
, , ,

i n temperance ho tels an d o th e r t emperance piec e o f sal t pork ; wh en d on e pork removed , ,

fun c tion s M ade of 2 l bs o f l e mon s 4 lb s of


. .
,
.
the sou p l igh tl y thickened th en rubbed through ,

sou r apples 2 l bs of beef sue t 4 lb s Of c ur


, .
, .
the tamis ; served wi th c r o fito n s .

ran ts 2 l bs gran u l a te d sugar


, . l b each of , . C R E A M O F L E N T IL S — T he p receding pu rée
c an d ied Ci tron a n d l em on peel T % o z s gra ted ,
.
m ix e d wi th an equa l quan ti ty of V é l o u t é sauce ;
n u t m eg o z of mace Th e apples c ored an d
, . . served w i th c r o fit o n s .

m inced th e can died peel s fin ely sh red t he


, ,
L E T T U CE —On e O f th e bes t Of sa l ad p l an ts ;
su e t fi n el y ch opped th e cur ran ts wash ed , ,
_

seen on our m arke ts i n th ree sh apes cal l e d the ,

picke d and drained th e l emon s pa re d an d th e ,


cab b age l e t tuce Co s l e t tuce a n d Romain e l e t ,

j u ice ex t rac ted the rind s boiled te n d er th en , ,


tu c e .

m i nce d th e wh o l e then thorough l y m i x ed a l ,


,
L E T T U CE S ALAD Well washe d wiped an d -

lowed t o s tan d a week before usin g ; b r a n d y an d ,

sh red l e t tuce l eaves sprin kl ed and tossed wi th


por t wi ne m ay be added i f use d for o th er than
F rench d ressing .

temperance peopl e
L E TT U CE AN D ON I ON S A L AD — Sam e as th e
.

LE M ON C R E AM — Two qu ar ts of m ilk brough t


to th e boil wi th a poun d and a h al f o f suga r p rece d ing adding ve ry fi nel y shred spring
,

gra ted ri n d s of f ou r l em on s m i xed wi th si x on ion s .

ounc es of sif ted fl ou r th en ma d e i n to a smooth ,


L E T T UC E S A L AD — H ea r ts of cabbage l e t tuces
th ic k en in g wi th m ilk ; wh en smoo th pou red to ,
wash ed and wipe d d r y sprin k l ed wi th choppe d ,

the boil in g m ilk and s ti rred t ill c ream y th en i s ,


ch ives ch ervil and tarragon l eaves th en d ashed
, ,

added th ree ounces o f bu t ter j uic e of th e l em wi th a d r essing o f oi l vi negar sal t and pepper , , .

L E T T U CE A N D T OM AT O S A L AD — Well
,

on s an d th e y ol ks of 1 2 bea ten eggs con ti nue , .

s ti rri ng t i l l o f a cu s tar d c on si s ten cy ; th en r e was h e d wiped a n d S h re d le t tuc e tosse d wi th


,

m ov e a h d use for fi ll i n g pu fls ec l ai rs l em on , , F rench d re ss in g gar n i shed wi th peeled a n d ,



c ream pies t ar tl e t te s sp reading l aye r cakes
, , , sl ic ed toma toes hav ing a d rop of Ravigo te
e tc . sauce on each .

L E M ON S OU P — A rich cream of chicken soup LET T U C E AN D T O M ATO S A L A D Wel l


n icel y fl avore d wi th th e gra ted ri nd s an d j uice washed wipe d a n d sh re d l e ttuce t ossed l igh tly
,

of l emon s .

wi th R emoula d e sauce a d d m ince d capers ,

LE M ON S A U CE — Lem on s wi th seed s removed


,

ga rn i sh wi th sl ice d peeled toma toes spri nk l ed


fi n el y m ince d or passed th rough a m inc in g ma wi th French d ressin g .
THE C UL I N ARY H ANDB OO K . I or

L E TT UC E AN D C U C U M B E R S A L AD —Wel l l i t tl e si fted breadcrumbs add an egg or two ; ,

wash e d wi ped an d b roken l e t tuce l eav es tossed


,
when thoroughl y mixed for m in to balls rolle d , ,

a n d gl istened wi th a d ressi ng com p ose d o f a i n to si f ted bread cru mbs fried brown then , ,

t a blespoon s of ol ive oil wel l bea ten wi th 3 si m mered i n curry sauce t il l d on e through ;
whol e eggs th en add a desser t spoon fu l of rich
,
serve d wi th the sauce a n d garn ishe d wi t h S l ice s
'
c rea m an d on e of tarragon v inega r ; se rve d of broiled l ive r dipped i n M ai t re d H Ot e l sauce .

garn ished wi th very th i n sl ices of cucumbe r L OB S T E R S AL AD —Lob ster mea t wi t h le t tuce


sprinkled wi th Fren ch d ressin g or cel e ry an d m ayonnai se ar range d on a d ish
.

B AK E D S T U FF E D L E TT UC E —T ri m med
,

and d ecora ted wi th sh apes of bee t root cape r s , , ,

washed and d ra in ed l e t tuce s parboiled a few pic k l es whi te s of eggs and quar te red hard
,
,

min u tes th e in sides th en fil l ed wi th sausage


,
boil e d eggs .

mea t the hea d s t ie d arranged i n a shallo w M I R OTON O F L O B S T E R— Sl ices Of l obs te r


, ,

sau toi r m oi s ten ed wi th wh i te s tock and M a


, mea t hal f of them dipped i n cold whi te sauce , ,

d é i r a sauce sea son ed w i th sal t and pepper c o v


, the o ther half i n a cold c ardin a l sauce serv ed ,
,

e red wi th bu t t ered paper pl aced i n oven an d on a bed o f shred l e t tuce wi th mayonnaise


,

cooked til l don e abou t 2 0 minu tes ; served w i t h


, down the cen tre .

th e s trin g removed an d the sauce poured over


M A YONN AI SE O F L OB S T E R—Lobs te rs ( hen s )
.

L I M E S —A smal l kind of l e mon u sed in the bars b oile d i n cour t bouillon wh en col d the tail
, -
, ,

for R ick e ys a n d o the r d ri nks ; se rve d w i th an d cla w mea t slice d in to a d i sh the c ream y ,

oysters i n p refe rence to lemons al so wi th v ea l par t o f the head wi th the cora l m ixe d wi th yol k s
,

cu tle t s fri ed sol es smel ts and bass A t M on t


, ,
of eggs mus tard oi l an d lemon j uice then .

, , ,
serra t the l i m es are cu t i n h al ves the j uice ex worked to for m a m ayonnaise when done ,
, ,

trac ted a n d bo t tle d then suppl ied to m os t sh ip s m ixed wi th th e l obs ter mea t ; served garn ished
,

a t se a as a preven t ive of scu r vy B ri ti sh sh ips wi th sh red l e t tuce ,



.

usi ng i t b y l aw so tha t an E ngl ish ship i s ,



“ ” L OB S T ER I N ASP I C C RE AM Also ca ll ed
known amongs t sail ors as a L i m e ju i c e r
M a z a r i n s of L obs ter
.
“ "
Lobs ter mea t i n sl ices
L I VE R— For the fo l lowing recipes ei ther shee p s
.
' ,

' '
mo l d s th in l y l in ed wi th aspic an d decorate d ,

l amb s cal f s pig s o r 0 x l ive r will d o


, ,
wi th coral tru ffles an d eg g whi tes Aspic
.

R AG OU T O F LIVE R —Wa sh and d ry a l iver


, .

cream m ade b y tak in g a pin t of l igh t co l ored ,

s team i t t il l qui te tender then cu t i t in sl ices aspic j e l ly me l t i t a n d place in a bowl su r


, ,
,

add i t t o a rich brown sauc e o r gravy s tew i t rounded wi th b roken ice add to i t a shor t hal f ,
,

till th orough ly hea ted th rough ; serve d garn ished cup of whi te win e v inegar t wo tablespoonful s ,

wi th s l ices of l emon and hard boiled eg g s of granula ted sugar a l eve l teaspoon of d ry .

F R I E D LIV E R W IT H ON I ON S —Liver washed


,

mustard two teaspoon s of sa l t and a season ing ,

an d wiped d ry o u t i n s l ices seasoned wi th , O f red pepper bea t wi th a whi sk , and as soon , ,

sa l t and pepper rolled i n fl ou r fri ed i n bacon


, as i t t h i t k e n s add oi l and v in egar al tern a tely a
, ,

fat ; serve d wi th sl iced on i on s tha t h ave been l i t tle a t a ti me t il l of a mayon n aise con sis tency ,

fri ed drained and l igh tly mois ten ed wi th b rown


, fi ni s h wi th a d ash of lemon j uice ; when read y ,

sauce . a dd the lobster mea t fi l l in to th e decorated ,

S AU T E OF L IV E R — T hin s l ices Of l iver and molds and when fi n all y se t wipe the mold wi th , ,

bacon the bacon f r ied n o t c risp t h e l i ver


,
a hot clo th turn ou t on t h e dish decora te wi th , , ,

seasoned wi th sal t an d pepper rolled in fl our green s t u ff and serve ,


.

and l igh tl y fried i n t he b aco n fa t the n taken L OB ST E R C H E E S E —S ame as th e p recedi ng ,


,

u p and pl aced wi th the bacon i n a sau toi r ; bu t the mol d s n o t decorate d ( larger mo l ds ) ;
l igh tl y fry th en a l i t t le m i nced on i on in the when se rvi ng the mea t cu t in sli ces l ike head ,

bacon fa t add fl ou r s ti r mois ten wi th s tock


, cheese , , , .

boi l u p s k i m pou r i t to t h e l iver and bacon D EVILL E D L OB STE R—Th e l obs te r boile
d
, , ,
,
si mm er t il l d one ; served sprinkled wi th chopped coole d S pl i t i n h alves al l m ea t taken from the , ,
parsl ey garn i shed wi th c r o fito n s
,
shel l s wi thou t breaking them th e in side of shell
.

L I VE R AN D S ALT PO RK— S ame as the pre


,

then b rushed wi th ol ive oi l or bu t ter F ry some .

ce d i n g subs ti tu ting sal t p ork for th e bacon


, m in ced shallo ts wi th th e brown mea t of the .

L I V E R P UD D ING — Li ve r an d bacon cu t in claw s i n bu t ter add l i t tle whi te sauce season , ,

squares stewed i n b rown grav y seasone d wi th


,
w i th sal t red peppe r a n d B engal chu tn ey ; when
, ,

sal t and pepper then fi l l e d in to p uddin g m ol d s


,
th ick add the lobste r mea t cu t i n small sq uares , ,

l ined wi th pas te c overe d c l o th ti e d ove r ,


then fi l l the shell s sprin k le wi th bread c rumbs
, , ,

boi l ed or s teamed for an h ou r an d a hal f ; serve an d m e l ted bu t ter brown o ff i n a b ri sk oven . ,

C U R RI E D L IVE R WIT H FO R CE M EA T an d serve garn ished wi th cress .

E q ual quan ti ties of u d der an d l iv er m i n ce d S C ALL O P E D L OB S T E R —A l so called L obs ter ,


"

then pounded and rubbed th rough a sieve au g ra tin E qual quan ti ties of l obster mea t ,

s easoned wi th sa l t peppe r swee t herbs an d a ,


and bu t ton mush rooms cu t i n smal l s q uares
, ,
T H E C U LI N AR Y H AN D B OOK .

a d ded to a reduced B éch ame l sauce w i th l ob tas te m i x i n to a smoo th p a s te wi th tomato


, ,

s te r c ora l or l obs ter bu t te r an d a l i t tl e gla ze ca tsup pl ace be tween th i n bu t tered bread cu t , , ,

fi l l in to l obs te r sh ell s as i n the precedin g fi n i sh o n t h e bi as an d serve on a le t tuce l eaf , .

o ff an d serve as above L OB S T E R T O AST —M inced l obste r mea t sea


L OB ST E R C R OQ U E TT E S —L obs ter mea t an d
.

s o n e d w i th sal t and red pepper then mois ten ed ,

bu t ton m ush rooms i n equa l q u an ti t i e s c u t i n to wi th rich c ream m ade thorough l y ho t and ,

ve ry sm a ll d ice measu re them an d for each ,


served on bu t tered toast , .

pi n t al l ow a p in t of V él o u té sauc e ; b oi l t h e L OB S T E R B O R D EL A I S E —L obs ter mea t sau


, ,

sauc e til l reduced on e thi rd then w ork i n som e t eed wi th a l i t t l e m inced on ion m ois tened wi th
, ,

lobs te r bu t ter an d a l i ai son o f egg y o l k s an d equa l quan ti ties of M ad ei ra an d C habl i s wines ,

c ream then add the l ob s ter m ea t an d m u sh


, reduce to h alf g l aze then add equa l par ts of ,

room s s tir thoroughl y t urn ou t i n t o a b u t t e r e d


, E spagn ol e and toma to sauces brin g to the boi l
, , ,

pan cove r wi th a sh ee t o f oi l ed paper ; when


, fi n ish w i th chopped p a rsley an d cayenn e ; serve
cold an d fi rm shape i n to c ro q u e t te s b read
, in ch afi n g d ish , , .

f r y ; serve wi th Perigueux Poiv rade o r tom a to L OB ST E R N E WB UR G —M ea t o f t wo l obsters


,

sauces .
cu t i n in ch pieces wi th som e s l iced t ruffl es
L O B ST E R C UT LET S —S ame as the preceding
,

sau té in bu t ter fo r fi ve m in u tes then add a half , ,

f or m in g th e m in to shape t o i m i ta te a m u t ton cup o f M a d eira win e an d reduce to on e half ;


chop usi n g the smal l c l aws to i m i ta te bon e
,
bea t a cupfu l of c ream wi th fi ve egg yolk s add ,

h an d le . i t to the l obster shu ffle abou t t i ll thick ; serve ,

R I S S OL E S OF L OB ST E R —Sa m e p reparat ion


in a cha fi ng di sh .

as for c roque t te s bu t i n s tea d of b read ing th em ,


S ALP I C ON O F L O B S T E R — D iced l obs ter mea t
,
,

they are roll ed i n to pas te and fried tru ffle s an d mush room s ad d ed to a reduce d
.


L OB S T E R P ATTI E S Lobs ter m ea t cu t in d ice
B é chame l sauce ; served ei the r i n p aper
,
c ases
mi xed in to a lobs ter sauce p a t ty shell s fi lle d o r fancy c ro u s tades .

wi th i t top p l aced on ; serv ed on orn amen ted B AK E D L O B ST E R I N S HELL —L obste r m ea t


,

dish paper .
cu t in to v ery s m al l d ice seasoned wi th sa l t red , ,

B OU C H E E S O F L OB ST E R—S ame as the p re peppe r m us tar d on i on j uice Worces tershi re , , ,

ced in g bu t smal l e r ( bouchée mean s m ou th f ul ) sauce chopped parsl ey a n d B échame l sauce


, .
, ,


STU FF E D L OB ST E R T h e c roque t te prepara filled in to l obs ter shell s covered wi th bread ,

tion filled i n to l obs te r S hells covered wi th cru mbs bas ted wi th bu t ter baked b rown and , ,
,

si f ted c rumb s bas ted wi th bu t te r baked brown served .

an d served
,

L OB STE R WIT H T OM
,

AT O E S — S ma l l pieces

.

S T E WE D L OB ST E R Lobs ter m ea t si m mered of l obs ter i n B éch amel sauce s mal l tomatoes ,

s tu ffed wi th i t placed i nver ted i n pa t ty pan s


i n a fl our and bu t ter sauc e seasoned wi th v i n ,
, ,

s team ed served h o t wi t h l obs ter sauce or col d ‘

egar mu s tard an d red peppe r fi n ish ed w i th a


, ,

gl ass o f sher ry win e ; se rved on v ery ho t toas t wi th a s p l c j el l y or m asked wi th aspic mayon ,


,

garn i shed wi th l emon S l ic es n ai se .


.


B R O C H E T T E O F L OB ST E R S l ices of l obster L OB ST E R O M E L E T Lobster mea t i n l ob ster
mea t from the tail a n d very th in slices of pa r s auce encl osed wi thi n an om el e t ; served wi th
,
,

boi l ed bacon ar ranged al terna tel y o n a s k ewer Aurora sauce down th e s ides .


, ,

rolle d i n a mi x ture of mel te d b u t ter season ed E S C ALL OPED L OB ST E R Lobs te r m ea t cu t


,

wi th Wo rces te rsh i re sauce sal t peppe r an d i n d ice m ad e ho t in ei th e r N orman d e or H o l lan


, ,

n u tmeg b roi l carefu ll y turn in g them ; served


, ,
dai se sauces fi ll ed i n to scal lop shell s or ova l ,

on a sl ice of very h o t toas t wi th a l i t tle M ai tre d ish es s trewn wi th b r e a d c r u mb s a n d m e l ted


, ,

D H Ot e l bu t ter

.
bu tter b rowned o ff and served , .

B R O I L E D L I V E L OB ST E R — At l eas t tha t i s F R ICA S S E E O F L O B S T E R — L obs te r m eat cu t


wha t i t i s cal l ed bu t th e l obs ter i s dead i m ,
i n sl ices m ade h o t i n a rich V elou té sauce , ,

m e d iatel y the h ead i s spl i t even though th e fi n i shed wi th a l i ai son of egg yolks an d a d ash
, .

flesh may quive r Th e l obste r sp l i t th e u n . of l e m on j uice ; served g arn ished wi th s t rips of


,

eatabl e par ts remove d season ed wi th sal t a n d bu t tered t oas t or toas ted crackers
,
.

pepper pl aced wi thin a wi re h inged broil er L OB ST E R AND OY ST E R P I E —I ndividua l pi es


, ,

b rushed wi th bu t ter broil ed ; served wi th for res tau ran ts and clubs ; bl anch ed oysters and
,

m e l ted bu t ter and l em on s l obs te r mea t i n equa l qu an ti ties a thick lob ster
.

C U R R IED L OB ST E R —Lobs ter mea t m ade h o t


,

sauce th i n n ed a l i t tl e wi th the oys ter l iquor ,

i n a good cu r ry sauce l igh tl y fl avored wi th i n d ividual pi e d i shes wi th th e l obs te r and


an chov y essence ; se rved wi th in a border of d r y oysters moi sten ed wi th the sauce st rewn wi t h , ,

boil ed rice .
ch opped p ars l ey c overed wi th pu ff pas te eg g , ,

L OB ST E R S AN DW I C H —M ash some ch eese and washed and ba k ed ( A R AT T L I N G G OOD ,

lobs ter coral add m us tar d pepper a n d sal t to


, S E L LIN G D I S H )
, .
1 04 TH E C U L I NAR Y H AN DB O O K .

'

m inc e d re d
peppers and a q uar t of toma to d rained ; bu t tered mo l d m acaroni coil ed c l ose ,

sauce , then add the macaron i si m me r and ,


al l round th e inside fi lled wi th a f orcemea t of ,

serve . chicken then s teame d t il l fi rml y se t tu rned


, ,

M AC A R ON I G E N O I S E S T Y L E —M acaron i ,
ou t ; serve d wi th wh i te I ta l ian sauce poured
b roken boile d an d d rain ed then kep t ho t over
M A C AR ON I WIT H S A U S AG E S —M ac aron i
.
.
, ,

Equa l par ts of toma to an d E spagn ol e sauce s


mi xed an d fe tche d to th e boil ; se rve d sauce i n ,
b ro k en boil ed and d rain e d ; pork sausages
,

bo t to m o f sh al low d i sh macaron i on i t thi s , ,


boiled sk in ned an d cu t i n to sl ices ; bu t tered
,

then s trewn wi th Parmesan ch eese . pan l aye r of macaron i th en sausages s trewn


, , ,

T I M B ALE S O F M A CA R ON I — M acaron i boiled wi th gra ted cheese repea t till full then a rich , ,

and drain ed then cu t in to in ch l eng th s sea , ,


veal gravy pou re d ove r bak ed h al f an hou r i n ,

s o n e d wi th Parmesan ch eese pepper and sal t ; ,


a mediu m oven then served , .

t o each poun d of th e m acaron i i s then a d de d a M A C AR ON I C R O Q U ETTE S — M acaron i boiled


h alf pin t each of sl ice d b u t t o n mu sh room s , an d d rain e d c u t i n s mal l p ieces re tu rned to
, ,

b rai sed chicken l ive rs and smoke d tongue a , sau toi r t o which i s then a d d e d gra ted h am and
,

t ru ffl e o r t wo th e whol e m ix ed an d sl igh t l y , tongue m i nce d mush rooms an d t ru ffl es Parm


, ,

m ois ten ed wi th I tal ian sauce T i mbal e m ol d s . esan cheese an d a l i t tl e th ick Velou té sauce ;
bu t te e d coa ted wi th c racke r meal fi lled wi th
r
, , rehea t thoroughly turn i n to a bu t tered pan 2 ,

the m ix ture b rush ed wi th bu t ter bake d brown , , , or 3 i nches d eep cover wi th bu t tered pape r an d ,

tu r n ed ou t ; served a l i t tle Span ish sauce on , allo w to se t fi rm ; th en s tamp ou t wi th the l arg


d ish ti mbale i n cen tre the top piled hi gh wi th
, , es t si zed col umn cu tte r th e colu mn s then ,

Parmesan cheese .
roll ed i n Parm esan cheese th en bre aded fried , ,

M A CA R ON I WI T H L OB STE R B U TT E R an d se rved wi th T rian on sauce c omposed of


M acar on i broken boi l ed a n d d rain ed a d eep ,
equal par ts of B earn aise and reduced toma to
pan bu t tered layer of maca ron i on i t i s spread , , sauces carefully mi xed toge ther
,
.

l obster bu t ter th a t again s tre wn wi th Par ,


M AC A R ON I P UDD IN G —M acaron i b r o k e n ,

mesan th en a l i t tl e B éch ame l sauce repea t t ill


, ,
boil e d wi th swee ten e d m il k g ra ted l e mon rind ,

pan i s full then place i n oven an d thorough l y


,
an d a stic k of cin n a mon ; when don e d raine d ,

h ea t wi th ou t bro wn ing ; se rved i n por ti on s th e m ilk re tu rn ed t o th e fi re brough t to th e ,

decora ted wi th sl ices of l obs ter mea t al tern a te d boi l th icken ed wi th a l iai son of egg yolks
, ,

w i th sl ice s of tru ffl e .
crea m an d a l i t tle c orn s tarch ; wh en to cus
B UT T E R E D M AC AR ON I —Macaron i b rok en ,
ta rd th ic k n ess rem oved season ed wi th n u tmeg ;
, ,

boi l ed an d d rain ed ; wh ile s til l h o t each por , m ac aron i i n d eep bu t tered pan spread w i th
tion served b y pu t ting a spoon f ul of m el ted preserves or marm alade the cu s tar d pou red ,

bu t ter in oval d ish then th e macaron i tosse d , , over ba k ed and se rved


,
.

i n the bu t ter an d s trewn whil e tossing wi th M A C A R ON I WIT H H AM — Take co l d h am t ri m


Parmesan cheese .
m ings pu t th rough a m incin g mach ine use i t
, ,

M AC AR ON I W I T H F IS H F LA K E S —Proceed i ns tead of cheese and ba k e a u g ra ti n , ,


.

a s i n rec ipe given for macaron i and oys te rs ; M AC AR ON I C R E AM E D WIT H E G G S —M ac


subs ti tu ting ei ther fl akes o f boil ed fresh cod aron i b roken boile d and d rain e d then tossed
, ,

fi s h r e d s n a pp e r sal mon sa l mon trou t wh i te


, , , , ove r a qu ic k fi re wi th bu t ter ; mean ti me ma k e
fi sh or pike for th e oys ters . som e scramble d eggs wi th c ream equal the ,

M A C AR ON I W I T H L AM B K I D N E YS — M aca a moun t o f eggs w i th Pa rmesan cheese a d d both ,

ron i broken boi l ed a n d d rained ; lamb kidneys


,
t o th e h o t macaron i keep ho t an d serve a s ,

sl iced an d sau t eed wi th bu t te r ; bu t tered pan ,


called ( d o n o t l e t i t boil )
,
.

l ayer of macaron i on i t a l ayer o f th e k i d n eys , , , M A C A R ON I WITH T O M AT O P UR E E —M a e


moi sten wi th tomato sauce repea t til l pan i s , aro n i broken boile d a n d d raine d ; toma t o,

ful l the top th en cove re d wi th sl i ces o f hard


, puree th ic k con tain in g a l i t tl e g ra ted h am and
,

boiled eggs these th ickl y s tre wn w i th Parme


, a sligh t fl avor o f garl ic l ayers of each s tre wn ,

san cheese placed i n o v en t il l of a delicate


, wi th P armesan in bu t tered pan t il l fu ll bake ,

b ro wn then se r v ed
, . and serve .

MA CAR ON I W I T H S P I N A C H P U R E E — M ac M AC AR ON I S O U P— M acaron i b roken boi l ed ,

aron i b ro k en boiled and d rained ; spin ach well , an d d rained : add t o a ric h beef bro th or i n ,

washed boi led d rain ed rubbed th rough sieve


, , , ,
toma to soup o r ch ic k en b ro th e tc ,
When ,
.

moi s ten e d wi th rich roas t veal gravy ; bu t tered t urn ing the soup i n to the tureen on s team tabl e ,

pan l ayer of macaron i then S pin ach ; s tre w


, ,
pl ace some Par mesan cheese i n the bo t tom o r ,

wi th Parmesan repeat til l full then b ake h alf , ,


else serve a bu t te r ch ip full wi th each p or tion ,

an hou r i n a m edi u m oven and se rve , .


( cl ub or res tauran t service ) .

T I M B A L E O F M ACAR ON I A N D F O RC E C R E AM E D M AC AR ON I — M ac a ro n i b r o k e n
M EA T M acaron i boiled i n full l eng th s ,
boil ed and d rai n ed re tu rne d to sau toi r mois t , ,
T H E C U L I NA RY H ANDB OO K . 1 05

ened wi th V é l o u té s au c e ; s e r v e d s tre wn w i th se rved wi th a brown fi sh sauce a t the sides


'

te l ; ,

Par mesan and garn i shed wi th pu ff pas te o ro u garn i sh ed wi th green s tuff an d l emon .

ton s ( made i n lea f sh ape f rom t rim min gs ) S O U S E D M AC KE R E L — Head s a n d tai ls r e


M A C E —The i nn er sh el l tha t covers th e n u t meg ; move d the fi sh d rawn and wi p e d a rranged in
, ,

u se d in i ts blade for m a s a fl avor in g t o soups pan wi th whol e peppers all spice bay l eaves ,

a n d sauces ; i n i ts groun d o r powdered form ,


and c l oves c over th em W 1 t h equal quan ti ties of
,

as a flavorin g to swee t sauces puddings m ince , ,


whi te win e vin egar and water bak e slow l y f o r ,

meat s cakes e tc
, , .
on e hou r serve c o l d e i th e r plai n o r wi th R a v
, ,
'

M A C ED OINE —A F rench term u se d to ind ica te i g o t e sauce .

a m ix tu re o f f ancy cu t vege tables or f rui ts ; the B AKED S TU FFED F I L LET S O F M AC KER E L


former ei ther plain or m ixed wi th sauce i s use d —Spl i t bone and wipe th e fi sh season wi th
, ,

i n soups o r as a garn ish the l at te r gen erall y i n ,


sal t and pepper quick l y se t the o u t side by ,

swee t j el lies .
l igh tl y fry ing i n bu t ter ; make th e s tu ffi ng o f
M A C KE R EL—A fin e sal t water fi sh enj oyed by fresh g ra ted b rea d c rumbs m oi s tened wi th Alle
mos t peopl e ; i t should n o t be wash e d wipe i t ,
man d e sauce an d season ed wi th m inced f ried
d r y wi th a c l ean Cloth cu t o ff the fi ll e ts sea S hall o ts chopped parsley anchovy essence and ,
, ,

son wi th sal t and pepper score th e skin l igh tl y , ,


H arvey s sauce ; sp read i t on the fried side ,

s moo th ar r an ge on bu t tered bak in g shee t


'

squee ze a l i t tle lem on j uice on t h e flesh broil ,


,
,

i t sk in si d e down fi rs t serve i t wi th m ai tre d ,



bake ; serve garn ished wi th po tato c ro q ue ttes
h Ot e l bu t ter garn i sh wi th j ul ien n e pota toes and lemon .

B OI LED S ALT M AC K E RE L — No 1 m ess are


, ,

and you have the d i sh of an ep icure .


.

B O IL E D M AC KE R E L — D raw and wipe th e the bes t ; soak them o v e r n i gh t i n cold wa ter then ,

fi s h boi l i t plain i n sal te d w a ter ; serve wi th


,
rinse i n cl ear run n ing wa te r then l ay th e m f o r ,

mel ted bu t ter separa te garni sh wi th Hol l an ,


an hou r i n m ilk pu t to boi l i n col d wa ter wh en ,
,

d on e serve w i th mel ted bu t te r m ai tre d ho te l


d aise pota toes a n d half a l emon . ,


, ,

B OIL E D M AC KE R EL — Head removed cu t i n mustar d o r parsley sauc e s .

B R O ILED S ALT M A C KE R EL—E x t rac t the


,
,

halves across d rawn wiped boi l ed i n sea, , ,

sa l t as i n th e p recedin g then wi pe d ry a f te r
'

s o n e d fi sh b roth con tain in g an on ion bunch o f ,


- ,

parsley an d a l i t tle C habl i s win e ; when d on e tak ing the m ou t of th e m ilk season w 1 t h pep ,

( abou t 1 2 m in u tes ) serve ei ther wi th pars l ey ,


per brush wi th bu t ter broil ; serve wi th mel ted
, ,

cape r ol ive drawn bu t te r o r R avigo te sauces bu t ter garn ished wi th parsley and lemon
,
.

M AD E I R A —N ame of a w in e Sauces cakes


.
, ,

B U T T E R ED M A CKE R E L —Fille ts of mackerel . , ,

wiped d ry place d i n to a sauce m ade o f m el ted


,
ices an d j el l ies so n amed are supposed to con
bu t ter seasoned wi th anchov y essence a l i t tle ,
tain some of i t wh ich rarel y h appen s sher ry ,
,

mus tard l e mon j uice g roun d mace an d red a n d M arsal a u sually bein g subs ti tu ted .

, ,

pepper s tew s l ow l y fo r t wen ty min u tes then


, ,
M AD E L IN E S —N ame given to smal l cakes baked
serve . in fancy pa t ty pan s m a d e of a poun d m i x ture ,
,

B R OI LED S T U F F E D M AC K E R E L — D raw th e v i z : a poun d each of bu t ter suga r si f ted flou , ,


r
,

fi sh an d wi pe d r y ; m ak e t h e s tu ffin g of cold bu t eggs ( ten ) an d a wi ne gl ass of cogn ac ; som e


te r wi th a very li t tl e f resh g ra te d brea d c rumbs al so add sul tan a raisin s curran ts and cand ied ,
,

chopped ch ives and shall ots lemon j uice sal t , ,


peel s .

and peppe r s tu ff the open ing wh e re d rawn rol l


, ,
M A I T R E D H O T E L— Name app l ied to a sauce

i n bu t tere d paper tie the end s b roil slowly til l , ,


an d a garn ish ( th e l i te ral mean ing of th e n ame
don e remove the paper ; serve at on ce garn ished
,
i s a s teward ) T he sauce i s composed of me l te d.

wi th g re n s tu ff an d l emon bu t te r ch opped parsley and l emon j uice and


e . ,
,

B AKED F ILLE T S OF M A CK E R E L—T h e fi sh i s u se d ch iefl y wi th broile d m e at a n d fi sh ; quar


wiped and fil l e t e d th e fi ll ets baked and baste d t e r e d boile d potatoes in the sauce i s the garn i sh

wi th m ai t re d hote l bu t t e r ; se rved wi th a
’ for boil ed fi sh ; and quar tered l emon s wi th the
brown fi sh sauce c e n ta i n i n g chopped ch ervil mea t i s th e garn i sh .

tarragon m inced tru ffl e peel in gs and a fla v o r


,
M ALLA R D — N ame o f our bes t an d l arges t wild
ing of por t win e . duck .

F R I ED M A C KE R E L B UTT E R S AU C E — Fil ,
R OA ST M AL L A R D AME R IC AN S T YLE —The ,

l e ts o f m ac k e re l wi ped season e d wi th l e mon ,


bi r d s pl uc k e d singed d rawn a n d t russe d then , , ,

j uic e sal t a n d red pepper d ippe d i n fl our


, , ,
roas te d rare 3 0 to 4 0 mi nu tes j oin te d the , ,

then i n to beaten eggs f ried i n ho t f a t ; served ,


j oin ts kep t ho t ; th e carcasses s te we d d own wi th
wi th l e m on bu t ter sauce garn ish ed wi th Pari si ,
herbs and season i n gs sauce m a d e from i t fin , ,

enne pota toes . i s h e d wi th cur ran t j ell y and por t win e served ,

F I L L E TS OF M A C KE R EL S AUT E S —T h e ,
wi th th e j oi n ts .

fi lle ts wi ped sea s one d wi th sal t red pepper and ,


M AL LARD P R OVENCALE S T Y L E ,
T he '

l emon j uice rolled i n flour saut eed wi th bu t


, ,
bi rds p l ucked singe d d rawn s tu ff e d t russed , , , , ,
1 06 T H E C UL I NA RY H AN DB OO K .

roas ted and served i n por tion s wi th th e g ravy MA R R ON S — F rench n a me for c h e s t n c i s he .


T

f ro m the bi rd s m ixe d wi th shal l o t sauce . French t ak e th e l arge n u ts and preserve th e m


B RO I LED M AL LARD M AITR E D H OT E L ,
'
by candying then expor t them ei ther i n can s ,

The bi rd s p l ucked singed spli t down th e back ; wi th sy r u p o r c rys tali zed , .

M A R R OW—T he con ten ts of leg of beef bon es


, ,

back and breastbones re mov ed l ai d s k in d own , ,

w a r zl s i n a p an season ed wi th sal t peppe r and


, ,
especial l y the b on e of the bu t tock wh ich run s ,

olive oi l marin aded i n thi s for 1 5 m in u tes


, ,
be tween th e th ick fl ank top si d e and S ilve r si d e , ,

then broil ed rare ; se rved wi th m ai tre d h Ote l '


the bu t tock generally being termed the roun d .

bu t te r and garn ished wi th wa te r c ress . T h e t o p side of th e bu t tock m akes very fi n e


F R IED M AL L A R D O R ANG E S A U CE — The ,
s teak s in d eed and in E nglan d fetches 2 50 per ,

T h e bi r d s prepared spl i t d own the back back , ,


poun d ; the silver si d e o f the b u t to c tt being used
an d b reastbon es removed th igh bon e sn apped , ,
for boiling ei ther fresh o r sal t an d fe tches 1 60 ,

ma ri n aded for an hou r i n ol ive oi l wi th a f e w pe r pound T h e mar ro w bon e shou ld be sawn


.

chopped on ion s pa rsley an d mush room ke tch ,


i n th ree p ieces the m arrow taken ou t bl anche d , ,

up taken up f rie d rare wi th a l i t tl e ol ive oil ;


, ,
i n boil ing m il k and wate r for a m inu te c o o l e d , ,

served wi th B igarad e sauce .


then cu t i n sl ices t o l ay on a s t e ak over wh ich ,

F I L L E T S O F M ALL A R D G AM E S AU C E ,
may be poured fin e s herbes sauce o r i t may be -
,

Prepare an d ro a s t as f o r A merican s tyl e above ; cu t i n pieces and m i xed wi th chopped mush


when don e take o ff th e fi ll e ts s te w d o wn th e
, ,
room s on ion and parsl ey and fi ll e d in to paper
, ,

c arcasses i n gam e sauce wi th a few sh all o ts cases th a t have been bu t tered and l in ed wi th
,

por t wine a n d a pi ece of gam e gl aze s t rain ,


b readcru mbs then bake d a n d served ; o r i n to ,

f ancy pas te cro u s tades ; o r i t may b e c u t i n t o


th rough a fi n e ch in ee cap fi n i sh wi th cayenn e ,

an d lem on j uice ; serve d wi th the por tion s .


small d ice seasone d m i xed wi th c rea m an d
, ,

S AL M I S O F M ALL A R D — T h e bi rds plainl y bea ten eggs filled i n to pa t ty pan s l ine d wi th


,

roas ted ve ry rare j oin te d the j oin ts skinn e d ; pu ff pas te and bake d ; or again si m mered i n
, ,
whi te I tal i an sauce and used as a b c u c h é e or
c arcasses and skin s t hen boi l ed d own wi th
herbs cl oves whole peppers bay l eaves an d sm al l pa t ty fill i n g ; agai n cu t in to l on g pieces ,
, , ,
d i pped in a frying ba t te r fried an d se rve d wi th
fried shallo ts ; when re d uced ma d e i n to a ,
,

a toma to purée ; made i n to quen elles by ad d i n g


sauce s train ed an d ski m me d fi n ished wi th a
, ,

l i t tl e gla ze and por t win e j oin ts then pu t i n


an equa l quan ti ty O f b rea d cru mbs a l i t tle ,
,

and si mm ered for 1 5 min u tes a f te rwa rd s kep t fl ou r sal t pepper and egg y ol k s poun d rub
, , , ,
,
th rough a sieve for m wi th spoon s then poach
h o t bu t n o t al l owed to boil ; served garn i shed , , .

wi th c r o fito n s .
M AR Z IPAN — N am e g iven t o an a l mond pas te
M AN G O —Nam e of a m os t superb torrid cl i ma te u se d by con f ec t ion e rs ; made o f I 4 o z s o f swee t .

frui t abou t the si z e of a l arge l e mon the i n te r al mon d s t wo of b i t te r o n e poun d o f pow d ered
, ,
, ,

i or of a pul py n a ture a t tach e d to a s ton e i n si ze sugar a flavoring ei th er of orange flo we r o r


,

l ike tha t of a l arge peach s ton e O n accoun t of .


rose water ; the al mon d s are b l anched d ried , ,

i ts perishabil i ty i n t ranspor t we ob tai n i t pounde d wi th th e sugar and fl avorin g to a pas te ,


,

chiefly as a pickle j ell y chu tn ey o r preserve the n pu t in to a preserving pan and s ti r red
, , .

M ARA S CH I N O —A very fi n e l iqueur of I tal ian ove r the fi re t ill i t cl ings i n a m ass to the spat
origin ob tai ned fro m th e M arasca ch e rry ul a i t i s then forme d in to roll s o u t i n sl ices
, ,
, ,

plu m an d peach kern el s ; used both a s a d rink an d baked in a very cool oven ti l l o f a l igh t
and a fl avoring to j ellies ices sauce s puddings brown col or or forced th rough a bag and tu b e ,
, , , ,

me ri ngues e tc e tc . .
i n to ring sh apes d u s ted wi th sugar and bake d , .

, ,

M A R IN AD E — A p ickling mi x ture made of oil ,


M A S T I C— A n a roma tic resin u sed for flavoring
vin egar l e mon j uice ; s al t pepper herbs W o r
, , , ,
chewin g gu m .

c e s te r s h i r e s auce an chovy essence on i on s , , . M A T E L OTE — N am e of a fi sh s te w or garn ish for


b ay l eaves wh o l e peppers wh o l e c loves and
, , ,
fi sh ( a la M a telote m ean s i n sai lor s s tyl e )
,

.

p arsl ey th e d i ff e ren t i ngredien ts ab ove being


,
S ee garn ishes .

various l y ad d e d to the oi l ; v inegar o r l e mon M AY ONN AI S E —Nam e of a sal ad d ressin g a l so ,

j uice according to th e fi sh flesh o r fow l t o b e , as a d ecorat iv e sauce for cold fi sh M ade wi th .

marin aded th e a r ticle be ing steepe d fo r an hou r


, a pin t of olive oil half a pin t of whi te vi negar , ,

o r so p rior to being coo k e d so as t o ei ther e n j uice of t wo le mon s fi ve raw egg yol k s on e , ,

rich o r b rin g ou t the fl avor i n cooking .


ounce of d ry mus tar d sal t and red pepper to
M A R J ORAM — N ame of a gar d en he rb used as a
,

tas te ; place the col d yolks a n d mus tar d in a cold


fl avor ing to soups sauces a n d s tu ffi n g for fi sh , bowl t h o r o u gl y mi x then d rop by d rop s ti r i n
, ,

and fow l .
one fou th of th e oil when li k e but ter g ra d ual ly
- r
,

MA R M A LAD E An othe r n ame for j am marm a -


,
th in wi t h some of the l iquid th en a d d the sal t , ,

l a d e bein g the word m os tl y u sed i n thi s c ou n when i t will be foun d to h ave thi ckened righ t
t ry Recipes for i ts ma k ing are f oun d under
. u p again ; th en fi n ish s ti rring i n t h e remain in g
the frui t headi ngs wh ich can be used . oi l and l iquid a t a l te rna te i n ter v a l s fi n i sh w i th ,
1 08 T H E C ULI NA R Y H AN D B O O K .

M O LAS SE S —A thic k l iq u i d ob tain e d from suga r i n me l ted bu t ter season e d w i th sal t and pepper ,

i n i ts proces s of refi ning ; u sed for cakes pud , p l aced i n wi re h l n g e d broi l e r broile d till done ,

d i ngs candy e tc
, ,
. m ean ti me sl ice th e s tal k s ve ry th in a n d sau te
M U L L ET — A s mal l sea fi sh of th e Sou thern th em wi th bu t te r a n d a l i t tle chopped parsl ey ;
coas ts sel d om seen a t tabl e as th e gray i s too
, ,
serve th e mush room s on toas t or as an a c c o m ,

com m on an d th e red too scarce T h e re d


,
. p a n i m e n t to s teak s cu tl ets e tc add in g the , ,
.
,

s houl d be j us t wi pe d th e en trail s d rawn l e av , ,


sau t ee d s ta l ks .

ing th e l ive r a n d trai l i n th e fi sh roll the m i n , M U S H R O O M S I N C R O U S T AD E S — S mal l fresh


ol ive oil s p rin k l e w i th pa rsl ey b roil the m i n
, , bu t ton m u sh room s peel e d wash e d d rai ne d , , ,

paper c a s e s a n d serve wi th I tali an R avigote ,


s a u t é e d wi th bu tte r choppe d ch ive s an d pars ,

or fi n e h e rb sauc e Th e gray mulle t may be . l ey season e d wi th sal t and pepper j us t moist


, ,

t reated i n an y of t h e forms appl ic a bl e to h errin gs en e d wi th Alleman d e sauce a n d a d ash of le mon


M U S H R OO M S An e d ibl e fu n gi u mbrell a ,
j uice fi lled in to fancy pas te o r fried b read
, ,

shape d d a rk g ills wi th easil y rem ovabl e skin ;


, ,
c roustades and serve d .

if those sold you h ave wh i te gil ls an d the s k i n S A U T E O F M U SH RO O M S —Med ium si zed f resh
wil l n o t s tri p e asil y bu t b reak s o ff in bi ts d i s , , mu sh room s peel e d wash ed a n d d raine d sau t eed , ,

card the m they w i ll p roba b l y b e fou n d t o be


, wi th bu t te r a n d minced S hallo ts season e d wi th ,

toa d s tool s A t l eas t 7 0 p e r cen t of th e m ush


. .
sal t pepper a n d n u tmeg m oi stened sligh tly
, ,

room s used i n cul i na ry pr epara tion s are can n ed wi th chic k en b ro th then reduce ; serve on toas t , ,

bu t ton mush room s an d more l s Fresh mush .


or on plat ter ga rn ished wi th s t rips of bu t tered
room s are seldo m used i n sauce s on accoun t of toas t o r as a garn ish
, .

thei r colo r Th e f ol lowin g recipes wil l use


.
S T U FFE D M U S H R O OM S C R E OL E S T YL E
—M e d i u m si zed fresh mush room s peeled and
,

cann ed excep t wh e re s ta te d
,
.

P U R E E O F M U S H R O O M S — C an n e d bu t ton .
washed stal k s re moved and m in ced wi th a l i t
,

mush room s mince d sau t ee d wi th b u t ter for fi ve , tl e cele ry a n d green peppers sau té th e m ince i n ,

m inu tes mois ten ed w i th V é l o u t é sauce re d uce


, , olive oil then m oi sten wi th ch icken l iquo r r e
, ,

quickl y then add som e th ick cream and le mon


, d uce then t h icken wi th fresh gra ted bread
,

j uic e reduce fi ve m inu tes more then rub


, , c rumbs remove from fi re an d a d d s t rips of
,

th rough a tami s for u se .


t r u fll e peel ings ch opped parsley sal t a n d pap
, ,

M U S H RO O M G ARN IS H —C ann e d mush room s rika fi l l th e mush room s smoo th brush wi th


, , ,

d rai ned the l iquor re d uce d th e mu sh room s


, ,
beaten eggs p ress on some b readcrumbs , ,

boile d d own wi th a season i n g of sal t l e m on ,


arrange i n a shall ow sau toi r sau té on bo th ,

j uice bu t ter and a l i t tl e w h i t e s tock when


, ,
si d es wh en n icel y browned take up an d serve
, ,

n earl y d r y th e l iquor a d ded th e wh ol e then


,
on toa s t w i th C reol e sauce separa te .

S T EWED M U S H R O OM S — C anned mush room s


,

pu t in to a thick Al lemand e sauce a n d use d t o


garn ish wh i te en trées o r pu t in to a rich E s pa g ,
d rain ed the l iquo r reduced
, the mush rooms ,

n ol e~sauce to garn i sh b rown en trées . fried ligh t b rown wi th bu t ter seasoned w i th ,

S T U FF E D M U S H R O O M S I T AL I AN S AU C E ,
sal t and peppe r when brown add a l i t tl e flou r , ,

Large fresh m ush room s s k i nn e d s tal k rem ove d , ,


shak e mois ten wi th the l iquor j uice o f lem on s
, , ,

pl ace d s k i n si d e d own war d i n a bu t te re d ba k ing E spagnol e sauce an d sherry wi n e si m mer a n d ,

pan fi lled wi th th e fol l owin g : M i nce the s tal k s


,
s k i m ; when brigh t use as a garn ish to l arded ,

wi th som e sh allo ts parsley fa t bacon l ean , , ,


fi ll e t o f beef e tc ,
.

h am and thy me l eaves sau té th e m i n olive oi l , FR I CAS SE E O F M US H R O OM S — Can ned bu t


for fi ve mi nu tes th en wor k i n som e egg y olks , ,
ton mush room s d rain ed the l iquor reduced the , ,

season wi th sal t an d pepper ; when fi l le d ,


mush room s fried a l igh t brown wi th bu t ter an d
sprinkle wi th breadc ru mb s an d m el ted b u t te r , m inced shal lo ts ; when col ored d rain ed a n d , ,

bake til l n icel y b rown e d ( ab ou t 2 0 m in u tes ) ; p l aced wi th th e red uced l i quor in to a rich
serve wi th b rown I ta l ian sauce pou red around ,
Poule t te sauce season wi th n u tmeg sa l t cay
, , ,

garn ish w i th fancy c r o fi to n s . en n e a n d le mon j uice ; se rved on toas t in c ases , ,

B AKED M U S H R O OM S O N T O A S T— M ediu m cro u s tades or as a garn ish to wh i te en t rées


, .

si ze d f resh m ushrooms s kinned an d t h e s talk s M U S H R OOM S AU C E — C ann ed m u s h r o o m s


remove d wash i n cold wa ter con tain in g a dash
, d rain e d th e l iq uor re d uce d the mush room s
,
.
,

o f v inega r d rain arrange i n a bu t tered ba k in g


, , sau t ee d l igh t l y w i th bu t te r then ad d ed to a ,

pan s k in side d o wn wa r d ; i n to each th en place Velou té sauce wi th the reduce d l iquor season ,

hal f a p a t of b u t ter bak e t ill d on e ( abou t 2 0 , wi th cayen n e a n d l e m o n j uice for wh i te en t rées ,

minu tes) bas tin g wi th th e bu t te r once o r twice ; '


o r use M ad ei ra o r Espagnol e sauces fo r b rown
serve on bu t te red toas t garn ished wi th tuf ts o f en t rees .

C R EAM ED FR E S H M U S H RO OM S —
fried pars l ey .
F resh bu t
B R OI L E D M US H R O OM S — Large fresh m ush ton m ushroom s pee l e d washed an d d rai n e d , ,

room s Sk in ne d a n d th e s tal k s remove d d i ppe d ,


thick pure cream fe tched to the boil mush ,
T H E C U L I NARY H AN D B OOK . 1 09

room s c o oke d i n i t till d on e ( abou t 7 m inu tes ) ,


B R OC H E T T E OF M U S SEL S —B lanch ed m us
season wi th sal t and cayen ne ; serve i n chafi n g sel s t h read e d on s k ewe rs dippe d i n mel te d ,

dish .
bu t te r an d b rea d c ru mb s twice then b roil e d or , ,

M U S H R O OM C AT S U P —F resh m u s h r o o m s m ay be d i ppe d i n bu t ter and frie d i n d eep fat .

wiped ( no t washe d ) an d pl aced i n to c r o o k s F R I E D M U S S E LS — R aw mussel s d rain ed rol led ,

i n l ayers til l full each l aye r bein g well , i n fl o u r th en i n bea ten eggs frie d a gol d en
, ,

sprinkled w i th sal t ; when full cove r w i th a , brown i n a l i t t l e very h o t fa t in a fry ing pan .

fol d e d clo th a n d stan d in a warm place for 2 4 FR I CA S S E E O F M U S S E L S — Blanched m ussel s


h ou rs then mash an d s t rai n th ro u gh a v ery
, i n Hollan d aise sauc e ; served on toas t sprin k led
coarse towel or a sack ; t o each ga l l on of th e wi th pars l ey d us t .

l iq u or thus ob tain ed add a quar ter of a p ound S T E AM E D M U S S ELS LE M ON B U T T E R ,

of whol e peppers and si mmer f o r h a l f an h ou r ,


S AU CE — B l anched mussel s si m mere d i n m ai
th en add on e ounce o f whol e cl oves on e ounce ,
tre d ho tel bu t te r ; served on s trips of ho t toas t

,

o f whol e al lspice t wo ounce s o f b ru ised ginger ,


sauce pou red over them .

and hal f an ounc e of wh ol e m ac e S i m me r fo r ,


S TEW E D M U S S E LS —B l anched musse l s boil ,
an other h al f h our then remove from fi re ; when ,
ing mil k m ussel l iquo r s train e d V b u t te r , ,
cold s t rai n th rough a j el ly bag bo t tl e cor k
, , ,
sal t red pepper ; same as oys te r s te w
,
.

a n d seal
S T E WED M U S SE L S —B l an ch ed mu sse l s th i n
.

ST U FFED M U S H R O OM S ON T OAST —Fresh ,

wh i te sauce m ad e o f m il k a n d V3 s t raine d
mushroom s th e s tal ks m ince d a n d sau t eed wi th
,
m u sse l l iquo r mussel s a d d e d wi th choppe d
a few shallo ts a n d parsley a d d e d then t o a l i t ,
,
parsl ey sal t an d r e d pepper ; served wi th oys ter
t l e m inced ch icken in sauce S up r eme t he ,
,

cracke rs o r th i n brown b rea d .

m ush rooms s tu ff ed wi th i t an d baked ; served on


c i rcles o f bu t te red toas t .
M U S SE L S B R EAD ED V I L LE R OI S AU CE ,

B l an ch ed mussel s dipped in t o cool in g V i l l e r o i


FR IC AS S E E O F M U S H R OOM S — Fresh mush
sauce ; wh en se t d ipped i n to si f te d brea d
rooms peel ed broi l e d on ou tsi d e til l brown ,

, ,
cru mbs th en egg an d breadcru mb s f rie d in ,
si mmere d i n thin B échame l sauce till d on e ; ,

drippi n g a gol d en col or ; se rved garn i she d wi th


se rved wi th fancy cro u ton s .

tu f t s of frie d parsley a n d l emon


M U S H R O O M R I SS OLES — A quar t o f m inced
.
,

M U SSE LS SA U T E S W IT H F I N E H E R B S
f resh mu sh rooms two m ince d me d iu m si ze d ,
Blan ch e d mu ssels sau t ee d wi th bu t te r mince d ,
on ion s pepper sa l t a pinch o f groun d mi xe d
, , ,
ch ives parsl ey garl ic an d si f te d breadcrumbs ,
h e rbs si m mere d i n thick sauc e t il l t h e on i on i s , ,
,
seasone d wi th sal t an d peppe r ; served i n cases .

d on e a spoonful th en pl aced i n rou n d s o f pas


,
M U S SEL S AU C E — B lanche d mussel s in sauce
try e d ges f ol d ed ove r pinche d roun d sprin k
, , ,
N or man d e
led wi th brea d c ru mbs an d f ri ed i n o i l
.

C R EA M ED M U S SE L S —R a w mussel s d ropped
.

M U SH R O O M O M E LE T —U se ei the r ca n n ed or
i n to h o t bu t te r a n d sau t ee d til l pl ump B echa
fresh mu sh rooms sau té till tender wi t h a few ,
,

m e l sauce then a d d e d si m mered ; served on


m in ced S hal lo ts d ra in a d d th em t o a M a d ei ra
, ,
,

sauce si m mer m ak e th e om el e t enclose th e toas t wi th sauce pou red ove r .

M U S SE L S I T A LIA N ST YL E— R aw mussel s
, , ,

m ush room s pour the sauc e a roun d i t a n d sen d


,
,

s a u t é e d i n bu t te r wi t h m inced on ion s ; when


to tabl e .

M U SCA L L ON G E —A l arge fi sh of th e pike


on i on s are sl igh tl y b rown the oyste rs tak en up ,

species f o un d in th e grea t l akes ; may be coo k e d i n t o a sau toi r tom a toes added an d re d uce d til l
,

and served i n all th e way s for p i k e ( wh ich see ) .


th ic k the n ad d e d to th e m ussel s wi th wh i t e
,

sauc e a n d choppe d parsley ; season e d wi th sal t


M U S SE L S —A l arge al mon d shape d sh e l l fi sh
,

peppe r bu t te r an d a dash o f anchovy e ssence


foun d a l ong the c oas ts equally as good a s oy s ,
,
serve d i n scallop di shes garn ishe d wi th sippe ts
ters bu t on accoun t o f thei r ch eapn ess n o t so
,
o f toas t
m uch u sed ; are eaten raw th e sa me as oyste rs
.

bu t gen eral ly fi rs t bl anched the u sual way b e M U SS ELS FI S HE R M E N S T YL E R a w m us


,
-

in g to th oroughl y wash th e shel l s th en to sel s d ried be tween cl o th s bu t ter fried to a n u t ,


,

fi l l a saucepan wi th the m ad d in g j us t a l i t tl e b rown mu ssel s then a d d e d a n d frie d till plump


, ,
,

wa te r pu t on the l id then s team til l they open ta k en up ; li gh t b rown sauce then m ad e wi th th e


, ,

thei r shell s when t h e fi sh i s removed they may bu t ter fl ou r sal t pepper a n d fi sh b roth mus
, , , ,
, ,

then be use d as f oll ows sels arrange d on toas t sauce poured ove r and ,

S CA L L O PE D M U S S ELS —Large fa t mu ssel s se rve d .

raw si m mered ti l l plump i n a l i t t l e fi sh b ro t h


, PA N R O AST O F M U S S E L S —R a w mu ssel s
wi th bay lea f thy me an d parsl ey ; taken u p
, , d roppe d i n to frothing bu t te r a n d fried t il l
d raine d ad d ed to a thic k B é cham el sauce fi l le d
, , pl u mp seasone d wi th s a l t a n d cayen n e ; se rve d
,

i n to scall op shell s smoo the d o ver spr i n k le d , , on s t rip s of toas t wi th en o u gh o f the l iquor to
w i th b rea d crumbs an d grated cheese b rowned , m ois ten i t sprinkled wi th parsl ey d us t an d
,

o ff a n d served . . garn i shed wi t h cress a n d lem on .


I I O T H E C U L I NAR Y H AN DB O OK .

M U STARD — A ye ll ow flou r produced b y fi n el y tak e u p o u t the vege tab l es i n to fi nge r si zes ; ,

gri n d ing the see d s o f the mustard p l an t ; p repared m a k e a wh i te sauce from th e s tock a d din g ,

for table a s a con d i m en t by si mpl y mi x in g t o a c apers a n d caper v i negar ; serve i n por ti ons
th ick cream wi th col d water an d a t as te of sal t wi th th e sauc e a t ends of di sh u sin g the v e ge .
,

T h e Fren ch prepare mus tard fo r tab l e use by tables a s a garn ish .

boil i n g toge the r equa l quan ti ti es of tar ra g on


R OA S T LE G O F M U TT ON — C u t o ff the shank
an d c i d e r V in egars pouring i t to th e m us tard ,
bon e rub wi th sa l t a n d pepper d re d ge wi th , ,
fl ou r an d when th icken ed si m mered a few m in fl our roas t till d on e wi th f requen t bas ting
,
, ,
u t es m ean whil e a d di n g a fl avorin g com posed
,
take u p pou r o ff su rpl u s fat from the pan add , ,
o f whi te wi n e which h as h a d soa k e d i n i t i n a
a l i t tl e fl ou r t o t h e re main in g gravy m ois ten ,
wa r m plac e fo r an h ou r o r so som e c e l ery wi th s toc k to m ake a sauce s train a d d capers , ,
seed s whol e spice s an d a c l ove o f crush ed
,
and caper vi negar o r l e t i t rem ain pl ain an d ~
,
garl ic sa l t a n d a tas te of suga r
,
.
se rve wi th each por tion som e red cu rran t j e l ly
M U S T A R D AN D C RE S S —T hese a re th e fi rs t separa te .

B R AI S E D LE G O F M U TT ON —C u t o ff th e
sprou tings of th e c ress seed a n d th e m us ta rd
seed used i n e q ual propo r tion s m i xe d af ter
,
shank bon e pu t th e l eg i n to a b r a s i e r e wi t h ,

bein g thoroughly wash e d and d rain e d T o


,

som e fa t bacon tri m m ing s on i on s carrot s bay


.

form sand wich e s be tween brown b read an d , , ,

l eaves b u n ch of s wee t herbs whol e peppers ,


bu t te r si mpl y sprinkl ed wi th sal t o r use d a s a ,

an d a l lspice m oi sten wi th m u t ton s toc k place


,
,
b reakfas t s a l a d b y l i g h tl y tossi n g w i th a s pr i n k ,

on th e l i d then pu t the whol e in to a ho t oven


l in g o f sa l t o l ive oi l a n d l emon j uice
,
, ,

c ook til l d on e a n d glaz y tak e u p then reduce


.

M U TT ON —Wha t a t re men d ous d i ff eren ce the re


, ,

th e brai se to h a l f gl aze s tra in sk i m ; serve , .

i s i n m u t ton b rough t abou t by i ts d ifle r e n t


,
wi t h th e por ti on s a n d red cu rran t j elly separ
pastures an d b reed s T h e s teward sh o u ld a l a te ; o r you may garn i sh i t wi th glaz ed ball s of
.

ways buy W E T H E R m u t ton l eavin g the carro t an d turn i p al so som e g l azed sm a ll


,
,
E WE S en ti rel y alon e un l ess they are M A ID on ion s,
.

EN S T h e bes t cu t ting sheep a re from si x ty


.

B R A I S E D S T U FF E D L E G O F M UT T O N
to seven ty poun d s i n weigh t T h e sk in should .

be d ry L eave the oil y sk i nn ed on e s al on e as


.
B on e th e l eg and where th e b on e was inser t a , ,

they will ea t T O UG H S ee tha t they a re m od fi ll in.


g c ompose d of m ince d mush rooms pars ,

e r a t e y l ean by n o ting th e shoul d er m ea t sh ow


l l ey shallo t s gra ted ham l i t tl e grated l,emon , ,

ing th rough th e sk in a d al so th a t th e mea t of


n
r in d season in g of sal t pepper and nu t meg mi
, x , ,
,

th e l eg ou t war d s can be seen th rou gh the sk i n these wel l then wo rk i n some forcemeat sew , ,

u p th e open in gs pl ac e the s tuf f ed l eg i n to a


ex ten d in g wel l down t oward s th e l oi n Ch eape r .
,

b r a s i e r e wi th carro ts tu rn ips celery c l ove of


to bu y th e whol e sheep an d u se al l i t s part s , , ,

c rush ed garl ic whol e cl oves a n d mace mois ten


( excep t th e he a d ) th en to k eep on buy i n g rac k s ,
, ,

rac k s rac k s T h e b u tch e r i s goi ng to c u t th ose


.
wi th s toc k b rai se and gla z e ; when d on e ta k e , ,
,

u p and reduce the b r a ise s trai n an d sk i m i t


rack s L ON G an d you have to cu t o ff t wo o r
,
, , ,

th ree i nch es before you can send th em to th e add i t t o a V é l o u t é sauce c on tain ing capers ;
,

serve wi th a stu ff ed tom a to a t ends of dish wi t h


b roil er an d th e ch op s th en come very e x p e n
,
,

sive . The l oin chops wh ich a re in fi n i tel y th e th e sauce poured around .

bes t should be used wi th th e n eck chop on e of B R A I S ED L ARD E D L E G OF M U TT ON Bon e ,


-

each thu s ma k in g th e pai r o f chops usuall y


,
a n d s t u ff the leg of mu t ton as i n th e preceding

cal led for th e tri m med bon e o f th e n eck on e


,
reci pe then l ard the ou tsi d e wi th season ed ,

c arry in g th e fri l l a n d a croque t te tip s tuck i n to s tri ps of bacon pl ace i n b r a s i e r e w i th carro t , ,

the l oi n on e I n cu t tin g u p the sh eep sp l i t i t


. turn ip on ion ce l ery bunch of swee t h erbs , , , , ,

s t raigh t th rough th e spi nal col umn then sep cl ove s and m ace m oisten wi th s tock brai se
, , ,

ara te the quar ter s c u t o ff the legs Close t o the ,


and gl aze take up when don e reduce the r e , ,

pin bon e Th e l oi n w il l y i e l d th ree h alf poun d


. main ing b raise s train an d S ki m i t ; se rve wi th ,

tri mm ed ch um p chops an d ten si x ounce on i on pu rée a t on e en d of the dish potato c ro


, ,

t ri mmed l oi n chops Wi th th e forequa r te r q u e t t e a t th e o th e r an d sen d th e sauce to


.
, ,

l i f t o ff th e shoulder cu t o ff th e breast then cu t ,


tabl e separa te ,
.

o ff th e scrag wi th the fi rs t two bon es of th e


B R A I SED L EG O F M U T T ON WIT H B E AN S

,

rack a d hering ; you n o w h av e eleven neck chop s C u t o ff t h is shan k i n ser t six cl oves of garl ic ,

t o each qua r t e r o r for ty eigh t chops t o th e ,


-

i n to th e l eg a t d i ff eren t p l aces braise wi th v e g e ,

S heep two legs an d t wo shoul d ers for j oin t s


, tables a n d spices t ake up when done the n t e ,
, ,

th e b reas ts a n d sc rags for the m u l ti tude of e n d uce s t rai n a n d s k i m t h e braise Mean wh ile ,
.

t r é e s a n d the hel ps h al l boi l some n avy bean s ; when d on e d rain a n d


.
, ,

B OI LED L E G OF M UT T O N—Cu t o ff th e mi x th em in to a sauce o f brown on ion pu rée ;


shan k bon e pu t to boil i n cold wate r wi th sal t
,
serve th e por tion s of mu t ton on top of a spoon
whole carro ts and wh i te turn i p s ; when don e fu l of the sauce d bean s pou r a l i t tle of t h e , ,
1 12 T H E C U LI N A RY H AND B O O K .

rika ; se rved garn i shed wi th a s tu ff ed tom ato a t chopped parsley b rough t to the boil thickened , ,

on e e n d and balls of gla ze d turn ips a t the


, wi th egg yo l ks s t i rred t i ll of a th ick paste ; ,

o the r . thi s sp rea d on on e side of the chop arran ged ,

R I SS O LE S O F M U T T ON S AU CE H OLLAN i n a b u t tere d b ak ing pan sp r inkle d wi th Par


, ,

D AI S E — C old p ieces of s tewe d m u t ton free o f m esan ch eese fin ished i n a quick oven ; served ,

bones m i nc ed fi n el y season ed w i th s a l t w i th a brown sauce pou re d around .


, ,

chopped pa rsley paprika thy me an d m ace M U T TON C H OP WI T H G L AZED N E W C AR


, , ,

mi xe d in t o on e th i rd of i ts bul k of fresh mash ed


-
R OTS —B es t n eck chops t ri m me d seasoned ,

pota toes ; when th oroughl y m ixed all ow t o be and broiled medi u m done ; n e w carro ts t ri mmed
,

c ome qui te cold then for m i n to fi n ger l en g t h s


, blanched then saut ee d till tender wi th bu t ter ,

l ike sausages d oub l e bread fry ; serve wi t h


, an d a l i t tl e sugar t a ken up d rained then
, , , ,

H oll andai se sauce . tossed i n mai tre d hotel sauce ; se rved as a ’

C A S SE R OL E S O F M U TT ON — Make a s ti ff p o garn ish to th e c h Op ( Plain broiled chop as in .

ta to c roque t te m ix ture shape pi eces of i t l ik e a th e reci pe here given m ay be served wi th a


,

pa t ty d oubl e b read an d fry ; n ow c u t a l i d garn ish o f ei th e r B re ton n e purée s tu ff ed egg ,


,

scoop ou t th e in side th us leavin g a case fi l l the ,


plan t s tewed ok ras haricots ver ts mac edoin e ,
, , ,

i n terior w i th m u t ton mi nce of t he p receding or j ar d i n i e re of vege tab l es flag e o l e t s green , ,

d
recipe ( hea te ) pu t on the l id ,keep t h e m h o t ; peas vege table purée
,
f ried pars l ey spinach , , ,

wi th th e pota toes you scooped ou t f o rm i n to purée mashe d po ta toes sau t eed ball s of turn ip ,
, , ,

a n d simpl y n amed on the bil l o f fare as M u t ton


D uchesse po ta toes an d use as a garn i sh .

chop wi th such or such garn ish as p repared )


H A S H E D M U TT ON WI T H P E PP E R S—C ol d
.
,

M U T T ON C H OP WI T H T R U FFL E S Loin
breas ts of mu t ton from an y of th e forgoi n g
chop s tri m med season ed broile d ; served wi th
reci pes ou t smal l i n dice shape s a u té e d wi th
, ,
, ,

a M a d ei ra sauce con tain i ng p l en ty of s l iced


m inced on i on moi s ten e d w i th some E spagn ol e
,
t ru ffles .

sauce G reen peppers top s c u t o ff in sides



. , ,

scooped ou t d oubl e blanched d rain ed fi lle d C OA T E D C UT L E T S O F M UTT ON T ri m med


, , ,

wi th the mince gratin a ted sl owl y b aked a n d


,
l oi n chops quickl y s a u té e d wi th bu t ter h alf
,
,

bas ted till of a n ice b rown col or ; ser v e d wi th a d on e d ipped i n to a th ick sauce con tain in g ,

rich toma to sauce pou red around m inced ham a n d mush room s they are then . ,

B R E AD E D M UTT O N CH OP W IT H B EAN S b readed a n d sl owl y fried til l done ; se rved res t


PU R E E B es t n eck chop s season ed wi th sal t in g on a fancy c ro u ton or th ey m ay be coate d ,

and pepp e r d ipped i n bea ten egg th en b read wi th an on ion pu rée an d served wi th a Soub i se
, ,

c rumbs f ried m ed i u m d on e w i th bu t te r ; n avy sauce .

bean s boiled d raine d rubbed th rough a tam i s M U T T O N C H OP S O U T H E RN S TY L E Loi n


, , , ,

l i t tl e B écha m el sauce ad d ed u se d a s a b e d on chops t ri mm ed season ed sau t ee d till d on e w i th


, , ,

which to l ay th e chops ; s e rved wi th a d e m i gl a ze bu t te r a n d m inced shallo t ; serve d on a f ancy -

a roun d th e b ase . c ro u ton garn ished wi th a mol d of d ry boi led


M U T T ON C H OPS S AU T E S S AU C E S OU rice a s tuff ed baked toma to and some s tewed
,
,

B I SE — Bes t n eck ch ops t ri m m e d seasone d okras ‘

wi th sal t and paprik a sau t eed wi th b u t ter a n d M U TT ON C H O P W I T H P E A S PU R E E —Loi n


,

m inced shall o t ; serve d on a bed of on ion pu rée chops t ri m m e d and par t l y s au té e d then di pped ,

m ix ed wi th V é l o u té sauce garn ished wi th f ancy in to a th ick yello w parsley sauce breade d fried ;
, , ,

c ro u ton s .
serve d on a bed of peas purée an d su rrounded
M UTT ON C H OP WI T H P OT AT O B ORD E R wi th V elou té sauce .

B es t n eck c hops t ri m me d frie d a gol d en b rown B AKED M U T T ON C UT L E T S WIT H APP L E S


,

i n bu t ter fresh mashe d po ta toes m ixed w i th a


, —T ak e the chops o f th e the n ec k under the
li t tle choppe d pars l ey force d through a bag an d sh oulder pl ace them i n a bu t te re d pan wi th ,

tube aroun d the di sh chop i n cen t re wi th so me sl ice d apples an d on io n s season wi th sal t


,
,

m ai t re d h o te l bu t ter sp read on i t

and pepper j us t cover wi th a n ice clear grav y


.
, ,

B R E ADED M U TT ON C H O P WIT H M U S H pl ac e ano ther pan over as a l id bake abou t 4 5 ,

R O OM PU R E E — B es t n ec k chops tri m me d m inu tes re move when gl az y ; serve the ch op i n , ,

seasoned w i th sal t an d pap rika breaded frie d cen tre of di sh wi th apples a t on e and on ion s a t
, ,

wi th bu t ter ; mushroom s s tewed i n V él o u t é o ther side garn i shi ng the en d s of dish wi th ,

sauce ti l l so f t then rubbed th rough si eve ; chop


, fancy c ro u ton s .

serv e d res ting on fancy shape o f bu t tere d toas t M UTT ON C H OPS FR I E D I TAL I AN S A UC E ,

wi th the purée aroun d B es t n eck ch ops tri mm e d sprea d wi th a sauce


.

M UTT O N C H OPS P R OVEN C E S T Y L E ,


con tain ing m i nce d on ion s l i t tle garl ic Parme , ,

T r i m rn e d n ec k chops sau t ee d h al f d on e wi th san cheese an d hard boil ed egg y ol k s rubbed


bu t te r equal par ts of on i on a n d mush room
, th rough a sieve ; when se t d oubl e b readed , ,

puré e s wi t h a flavor of g ar l ic and a l i t tle f ri ed and ser v ed wi th a b rown I ta l i an sauce .


T H E C U LI NA RY H ANDB O OK I I 3
.

B R E ADED M U TT ON C H OP S AU CE P E R I , a d el ica te b rown ; se rved wi th tom ato sauce


G UE U X — Bes t n ec k ch ops t ri mme d sp rea d poure d aroun d

, .

wi th a th ick tru ffle sauce ; wh en se t d oubl e , C R O U S T AD ES OF M U T T O N WI T H P O A C H


breaded frie d ; served wi th P erigu eux sauce
,
.
ED E G G — C old roas t mu t ton cu t i n smal l d ice ,

M UT T ON C U TLE T S F R IED R E FO RM E then pl ace d i n a sau toi r and mois ten ed wi th a


G A R N I S H —Loi n chop s t ri m med season e d
,

, l igh t con som m é a n d a p i n t O f d em i gla ze t o -

w i th sal t an d pepper d ipp e d i n beaten eggs , , each fou r lbs of m ea t Re d uce i t to abou t hal f
. .

then i n gra ted h a m again i n eggs then i n a , , over a m e d iu m fi re ; h al f a d ozen each of green
mi x ture o f gra ted ham an d fresh brea d cru mbs , peppers an d sh all ots m inced a n d l igh tly f ried
arran ged i n bu t te re d bakin g pan pl aced i n a , wi th bu t ter then a d d e d to th e hash mix ; fi ll i n ,

me d iu m oven brown ed and bas ted wi th bu t ter ;


,
t o f ancy c r o fis ta d e s to or d er pl acin g on top of ,

serve d wi th a garn i sh of sh re d d ed ham slices , each a freshl y cooked and tri m me d poached
of carrot s and tr u ffles al so rings of whi tes of ,
egg garni sh wi th waterc ress
, .

hard boiled eggs i n a sauce Supr eme .


M U T T O N C H OPS WITH B UTT E R E D C O R N
M U T TON S T E W WI T H V E G E T A B L E S —T a k e a rac k Of mu t ton remove the mea t ,

Scrags and lean breasts O f mu t ton c u t i n nea t from the b on e i n on e p iece trim cu t i t up i n to , ,

pieces seasone d wi th sal t a n d pepper sau t ee d


, , fou r ounce cu tle ts season wi th sal t and pepper , ,

a golden col or in bu t te r wi th a f e w small on ion s , broi l be tween a wi re hinged broiler a golden


flou r then a d ded to for m a roux mois ten wi th , brown ; mean wh il e cu t corn from ho t c ooked
boi l ing s tock then boil up a n d ski m season t o
, , cobs season wi th sal t and c ream fi l l i n to ova l
, ,

tas te wi th sal t peppe r n u tmeg an d a cl o ve o f


, , d i sh es cover th e top wi th b readc ru mbs and
,

ga rl ic ; when hal f d on e cubes Of c ar ro t an d , spri n kl e wi th m el ted bu t ter ba k e brown ,

turn i p then ad d e d al so som e li m a bean s si m , , quickly ; wh en done place a ch op on the corn a , ,

mer til l d on e ; serve ( Varie ties O f s tew a s . fe w j ul ienn e pota toes aroun d the edge and ,

above may be m a d e by garn i shing wi th rice sen d to table .

t i mba l es and smal l s tu ff e d toma toes i ns tea d O f M U T T O N C UTLE T S AUT E WI T H FI N E


th e vege tables ; al so in s tead of the vege tabl es , H E R B S—T ri m me d chu mp chop s f rie d wi th
use s tewe d toma toes and an ex t ra clove of gar bu t te r frie d m i nced shallo t s parsl ey a n d
, ,

l ic ; or usin g a pl ai n gar n ish O f ei ther green mush rooms sprinkled ove r when sen d ing to
,

peas fia g e o l e t s s t ri n gle ss bean s bu t te r bean s


, , , , tabl e .

harico t bean s glaze d n e w carro ts b raise d


, , M U T T ON PIE EN G LI S H S TY L E —M iddl e ,

s tal ks Of celery frie d egg plan t rice and okras ;


, , n eck chops trim med a n d shor ten ed arran ged ,

small wh i te tur n i ps hol l owed ou t s teamed , , in a deep pie di sh around th e si d e s th e cen tre ,

then fi l led wi th a mac edoin e j ar d in i ere ; green , fi lled wi th bal ls Of po tatoes or sm all n e w on es ;
peas fia ge o l e ts e tc pota to c ro q ue t tes sl ices
, , .
, , make a rich wh i te sauce fro m s t rong mu t ton
of stu ff e d cucu mbe r s tu ff ed ar tich oke bo t toms , , stock season wi th pepper an d sal t Chopped
, ,

e tc a n d named accor d ingly ) R E M EMB E R


.
, .
parsley and cape r s cove r th e mu t ton a n d po ta ,

A LWAY S T H AT I T I S T H E STEWS toes w i th i t plen ti full y pl ace on a shor t c rus t , ,

WH I C H KEE P D OWN T H E K I T C HEN egg wash bake on e hour i n a m ed iu m oven


, .

E XPEN SE S A N D A R E A L W A Y S I N
, B R A I SED B ON E D L OIN OF M U TT O N —T ak e
S T R ON G D E M AND B Y T H E PATR ON S ,
a l oi n of m u t ton and re move th e ch in e bon e ,

I F W E L L C OOK E D S EAS ONED A N D , , ( th is c an b e done wi thou t inj uring the m ea t by


V E RY N E A T LY G ARN I S H E D ; I T T H E N l oosen in g the tende rloin fi rs t ) ; whe re th e bon e
APPEAL S T O T H E E Y E AN D I T S SAV OR I was fi ll wi th a s ti ff forcemea t rol l ove r th e
, ,

N E S S T O T H E PA L AT E D O N OT LE T .
fl ap and t i e wi th t win e ; arran ge i n a b r a s i e r e
wi th vege tabl es a n d spices m oi s ten wi th s tock
Y O U R V E GE T AB L E O R F R Y C O O K ] U ST ,

en ough t o j us t cove r the mu t ton b rai se a n d


D I S H I T O UT ON T O T H E PL A T T E R ,

baste til l don e and gla zy ; serve i n por t ion s wi th


WIT H A LAD L E S IMPLY B E C AU S E I T I S a garn ish ei ther of green peas mac edoi ne j ard , ,

A STEW ; PLA C E T H E M E AT N E A T LY i n ere asparagu s ti ps n e w car ro ts s trin gless


, , ,

O N A D I S H T H E N G ARN I S H I T W I T H
, bean s sm al l gl azed tu rn ips s tu ffed and gl azed
, ,

C AR E .
cucu mbe rs flo we r e t s Of cauliflower e tc I t .

H AS H E D M UTT ON I N P E PP E R S —Fou r lbs


, ,

. should be n o ted th a t gl aze sh ould be Over and


O f cold c ooked mu t ton cu t i n sm all dice four ,
around sligh tl y th e m ea t po r tion and the veg ,

mediu m si ze d on ion s m in ce d an d l igh t l y fried e tabl e garn ish shoul d be moi s tened wi th e i th e r
wi th bu t ter then a d de d t o th e mu t ton m i x
, , ,
a V é l o u té B échamel or Allemande sauce
,
.

then moi s ten wi th a l i t tl e E spagn o l e sauce ,


B RA ISE D M U TT ON C H OPS G ARN I SH E D ,

season to tas te then b rin g t o a si m m e r T w o


, . Racks of mu t t o n t ri mmed ch in e bon e l oosened ,

d oz en mediu m si zed green peppers tops cu t Off , ,


an d the yel l ow gris tl e th a t run s th e ful l l eng th
see d ed d ouble b l anch ed th en fi lled wi th the
, , of the ch in e removed a rran ged i n th e b r as i e re ,

h ash ; g ra tin ate t h e to ps bake i n a s l ow oven to , wi th carro t on ion ce l ery pars l ey wh o l e c l o v e s


, , , ,
I 14 T H E C U L I NA RY H AN D B OOK .

and mace m oistened wi th s tock j us t enough t o


, g ord e sauce th i s s top s th e was t i n g and p re ,

cover brai sed an d basted ti l l don e an d gl azy


,
ven ts t he mea t from giving u p i t s g ravy Place ,
'

taken up th e b rai se s train ed and sk im med ; each n oise t te of l amb on a crus t o f b readcru mb
,
passed th rough bu t ter a n d the shape Of the
served in chops each ch op rolle d i n th e gl aze ; ,
noise t te ; ar range in a crown on the d ish cove r ,
served garn ishe d wi th smal l s tu ff ed tom atoes eac h noise t te wi t h a So u bi se a la B echamel ,
.

B russe l s sprou ts, glaze d sm all on ion s flage o Powder wi th gra te d Par mesan cheese moi s t ,
,

l e ts green peas asparagus ti ps sauerkrau t


,
en ed wi th m el te d bu t te r gla zed in a h o t oven
, , , ,

n ew carrots or turn ips pota to quenel l es an d pou r in the m iddle of the d i sh some Pe rigor d
,

sauce pu t on each n o i s e t t t e a fi n e sl ice of tru ffle


s tewed prun es ( Germ an s tyl e ) po ta to c ro ,
,

a n d se rve h o t the coo k ing mus t be quick T his


q u e t t e s So u bi se pu re e j ardin i ere o r a mac e
, .

"
,
rec ipe i s for t wel ve person s
,
.

d o i n e o f vege tab l es .

B R O I LED M U TT O N C H OPS GA R N I S H E D I wil l here q uo te th e au thor of the E P I CU R ,

— Rack s Of mu t ton tri m med ch in e bone and E AN C h arles R a n h o f e r ,


, .

gri st l e re move d cu t in to cu t l e ts seasoned w i th “ N OI S E T T E S O F M U T T ON A U M ADER E


—C u t eigh t chops of fou r ou nces each from
, ,
,

sal t and pepper d ipped i n to m el ted bu t ter , .

b roile d me d i um don e of a golden color ; served two rack s of m u t ton R emove the n oi x ( cen tre .

on a triangl e of t oast garn i shed wi th ei the r O f chop ) bea t them l igh t l y tri m al l to th e same , ,
,

b rown I talian toma to P roven c al e Poivrade ,


si ze season wi th sal t a n d pepper Hea t fou r , .

, , ,

ou n ces O f bu t ter in a fryin g pan when i t is very


piqu an te sh allo t or fin e s h erbes sauces o r wi th
.
-

h o t add t o i t th e n oix sau té them over a quick ,


,

,
m ashed po tatoes i n shapes m ashed tu rn ips fi re takin g care t o turn the m wh en they h ave
, ,
,

spin ach p u r e é en d ive p u re e Sou bise p u r e é


, a good col or l e t the m cook several m inu te s , ,
,

B re tonn e bean s pure e j ardi ni ere mac ed oin e m ore arrange them on c ro u ton s of brea d fried i n
, , , ,

asparagu s tips B ru ssel s sp rou ts s au t e é s green


,
bu t te r a n d Of th e sam e si ze as the n oi x D ry .
.

peas j ul ienn e vege table s i n Al l emande sauce


,
ou t th e bu t ter f ro m the pan add h a l f a gil l Of ,
,

M a d ei ra coo k i t down a d d a l i t tl e brown sauce


s mal l n ew po ta toes boiled then moist ened wi th ,
, , ,

c oo k i t d o wn agai n un ti l i t i s a l igh t sauce


m ai t re d h Ot e l bu t ter p u r e é of a r tich oke ch ip

pass th rough th e straine r an d pou r on th e


, ,
,

o l a t a garn ish F rench bea n s ( h arico ts ver ts )


, now , .

n e w l i ma bean s b u t ton mush room s s a u t e és , ,

s tu ffed Ol ive s .
N O OD L E S —A s t i ff paste made wi th sif ted flou r
N AS T U RT I U M —N am e of a pl an t whose seed s a n d y o l ks of eggs th en roll ed o u t v ery th i n i n
'

are ex ten sivel y used as a subs t i tu te for pick l ed shee ts place several sh ee ts on e on ano the r , ,

capers . then wi th a sh arp kn i fe cu t i n s t rips ; fo r soups


N AVAR IN — A F rench word given t o a brown o r to b e used fo r a l l pu rposes i n p l ace of mac
mu t ton s tew wi th vege tables the same as ou r aron i ; for al l th e reci pes g iven for macaron i
,
,


harico t O f mu t ton n ood l es may be subs ti tu ted ; fro m t h e sh ee ts
.

E —
N S SE L R OD E Nam e g iven to an iced pud may be s tamped ou t fancy sh ape s for decora ti n g
d in g n ame d a f ter a Russian s ta tesm an com raised pi es e tc , .


, ,

posed o f a p u r e é of ches tn u ts wh ipped c ream N O Y E A U N am e of a very fi n e l iqueu r p repared


, ,

gla zed fru i ts a fl avoring of maraschi n o m ixed


,
f rom th e kern e l s of frui t s ton es a l monds , ,
,

a n d f ro zen .
b randy gin fl avorin g ex trac ts and sy rup , ,
.


N E U FC HAT E L Nam e of a c ream cu rd cheese N U T M E G — Th e kern e l O f the fru i t O f t h e n u t

d
i mpor te f rom S wi t zerl and B u t m os t Of tha t m eg tree Th e frui t i
.
tse l f i s in si ze an d sh ape .

d
u se in ho tel l i e i s m ad e i n ou r own dai ries
f th a t of a small pear wh ich on ripenin g bu rs ts , , ,

and equall y as good as t he i mpor ted exposing i ts kerne l covered wi th a n et tin g ; thi s .

ne t tin g i s kn own as mace the k e rnel i tse l f as ,


N I VE R NA I SE N am e given to a garn ish of -
n u tm eg ; i t i s u sed as a fl avorin g to soups ,

j ul ien n e vege table s m ixed i n A l lemande sauce sauces pu d d ings c us tar d s e tc The n u tmegs .

N OI S E T T E — F rench n am e for n u t S ome ti m es


.
, , ,

from PE NAN G are con sidered Of mos t com .


seen on bill s Of fare as “ N oise t tes of mu t "
m e r c i a l val ue
OA T M E AL —A s th e word i mpl ies i t i s th e mea l
.

” “
ton , N oi se t tes d a gn e a u ( nu ts Of ’


Noise t tes d e veau ( nu ts Of T o prepare of oats ; th e oat grain s are skinned d ried then , ,

t h i s ld i s h I wil l q uo te LE ON C IE U X a Parisian groun d in a m il l a n d place d in to com merce as ,

che f : coarse and fi n e oa t meal Th is i s th e n used t o .

N O I S E TT ES O F LA M B A L A M A I N m a k e i n c o nj unc tion wi th whea t fl our cakes


,

T E N O N —T ake t he two fi ll e ts an d sm al l fi l
, ,

b iscui ts bread grue l d rinks mu sh pud d ings , , , , , ,

l e ts ( fil e t s m ign on s ) from a sad d l e of l amb tak e th icken in g soups e tc e tc A m is take i s there ,


,
.
,
.

ou t the n e rves tri m th em an d d i vide e ach fi lle t


,

fore mad e wh en wri tin g bi l l s of fare t o say
,
"

in to si x par ts and th e small fi lle ts i n to th ree “ ”


oa tmeal por ridge un l ess you u se th e meal ;
par ts bea t them season wi th sal t an d pepper
, , an d seldom i s the meal used I t i s cu stomary , .

sau t é th em qu ick ly on bo th sides wi th clea r n owadays to u se rol l e d oa ts flaked oa t s an d , ,

bu t ter ; a s soon as sau te ed pu t i n a good Peri the d iff eren t n ames given b y m anufac turers
, ,
1 16 T H E C U L I N ARY H AND B O O K .

OMEL E T W I T H HAM —C ooked m inced ha m OM EL ET WI T H SP I N AC H — B ea t s Om e pure e


mois te n ed w i th M ad ei ra sauce enc l osed w i thin of spin ach w i th th e eggs season wi th sal t a n d ,

the o m ele t 2 R aw m in ce d ha m w i th a l i t tle


. . peppe r for m and serve , .

m ince d sh al l o t an d parsl ey fri e d t ill d one l adle OM ELE T WIT H PA RSL E Y — M ix some fi ne l y ,

o f eggs poured i n form e d a n d served 3 M inced , chopped pars l ey wi th th e bea ten eggs season .
,
,

f rie d h a m be a ten u p wi th t h e eggs pou red in to wi th sal t an d peppe r for m a n d serve p l ain or
, ,

the Omele t pan formed and served , wi th V é l o u t é sauce a t the si d es .


.

OM E L E T W IT H LA M B KI DN EYS —Cu t the O M EL ET W IT H T OM AT O E S —S te w fresh or


k i d n ey s i n to s mal l d ice a n d fry the m w i th c ann ed tom a toes wi th a l i t tle bu t ter sugar , ,

minced shal l o t s i n bu t ter f o r th ree m inu te s add sal t and pepper til l o f a t h i c k pulp enc l ose a ,
'

a l i t tle M ad eira sauce a n d choppe d p arsley spoon ful wi th in th e omele t ; serve wi th tomato ,

enc l ose a spoonful wi th in th e omel e t wh il e sauce pou red around .

f or m ing ; serv e wi th M ad eira sauce pou re d O M E L E T WIT H T O M AT O E D R ICE —Take


aroun d 2 S te w the k idn ey s i n a she rry w in e
. .
some boile d r ice grain s an d mois ten them wi th
fl avo red b rown sauce seas on wel l w i th r e d a good toma to p u r e é enclose som e wi th in the
,
,

peppe r or a minced red peppe r ; w h en d one omele t ; serve wi th toma to pure e poured aroun d ,
.

OM E LET WI T H OY STE R S —Scald the oys


s t rai n th e sauce on t o some un swee tene d appl e
sauc e p assed th ro u gh a fi n e sieve ; in to the
ters cu t them i n quar ters place the m in to a ,
bea ten egg s pu t some fi n e l y choppe d green ,

rich th ick oys ter sauce e n c l o s e a spoon f u l wi th ,


m in t encl ose a spoon fu l Of k idn e y s w i t h i n the
,
i n th e omele t turn on t o the serving dish pl ace
omel e t wh il e form ing ; serve w i th p l en ty Of th e , ,

th ree whol e scalded oys ter s on top pou r some ,


sauce pou red aroun d .

oys te r sauce ove r th e whol e a n d sprink l e wi th


O M E LET WIT H SWEETB R E AD S C oo k ed parsl ey d us t .

s wee tbread s cu t i n d ice sim mere d i n m u sh


O M E LET W I T H F R E NC H O R S M A L L
,

room sauce a spoon fu l encl osed wi thin th e


,
G R E E N PEA S — S i mmer some peas in reduced
omele t wh il e form in g ; se rved wi th mu sh room
V é l o u t é sauc e wi th a l i t tl e m in ced green m in t ,
sauce poured around .

t ill thick enc l ose som e w i th i n t h e omele t tu rn


OM E L E T WI T H M U S H R O OM S —I f f r e s h
, ,

on t o th e serving d ish garn i sh each end wi th ,

mush room s p eel them t ri m cu t in to d i ce a n d


, more Of the peas and th e sides wi th c ream
, ,

fry wi th b u t t er ; i f c ann e d cu t the m i n th in sauce , .

O M E L E T WIT H E G G P LANT—C u t the egg


sl ices an d f ry d rain th en m i x th e m i n to
, ,

M ad eira sauce ; encl ose a spoon f ul wi th in th e


pl an t in to d ice f ry i t wi th bu t ter when d on e
omel e t ; se rv e w i th a spoon ful O f mush roo ms i n , , ,

a d d a l i t tl e m ea t gl a ze enc l ose wi th in th e ome ,


sauce a t th e en d s Of th e om ele t .

l et ; se rve wi th a good b rown sauce a t the sides .

O M E L E T W IT H S H R I M PS M E X I C A N

,

S TY LE T ake fresh cooke d o r can n ed OM E L ET WI T H S P R IN G V E G E T AB L E S


C u t a j a rdin i ere or m ac edoin e O f vege tables ( or
sh ri mps cu t i n hal ves m i x w i th som e fin ely
, ,

c hoppe d green peppers pu t th e m i n to a V el use can ned on es ) boi l til l tende r d rain m ois ten , ,
,
wi th a l i t tl e d emi gl a ze or sauce Supr em e e n -

ou té sauce con tain in g some l obs te r bu t ter si m ,


,

mer for fi ve m inu tes encl ose a sp oon ful w i th in cl ose wi th in th e ome l e t tu rn on to th e se rvi ng ,
,

th e omele t turn on to the se rvin g di sh pl ace two dish decorat e th e top of om ele t wi th m ore Of ,
, ,

wh ol e sh ri m ps on top and pour som e Of the th e v ege tabl es and pou r som e of the sauce
,

sauce around .
around .

OM E LE T WITH ASPA RAG U S P OI NTS- T ake


O M E L E T W IT H F I N E H E RB S — B ea t up wi th
cook ed asparagu s tips rehea t them in Alle ,
th e egg s some fi n ely m inced shal l o ts th y me
m ande sauce enclose w i th i n the omel e t tu r n ,
,
m arj oram chervil ch ive s an d parsley S eason ,
, ,
on to serv ing d ish decorate th e top wi th more ,
,
wi th sal t an d pepper for m th e o me l e t a n d
ti ps an d serve wi th Allemand e sauce a t the
, ,

serve pl ai n o r wi th fi n e h e rb s sauce pou red ,

sid e s .

around .

S PAN I S H O M E LE T f —Finely sh red on i on s


OM E L E T W IT H OL IV E S S tu ff ed 0 1i v e s

sl ice d heated in a rich M ad ei ra sauce enc l ose d ,

m i nced green peppers m inced m u sh rooms , ,

wi th i n th e omele t t u rn ed on to servi n g dish


, ,
,
sol id toma toes wi th th e j uice and see d s ex ,

th e top o f o m e l e t decora ted wi th sl ices of s tu ff e d


pressed cu t i n smal l pieces th e whol e fried
,
ol ives ; served wi th M a d ei ra sauce a t the sid es
,

wi th bu t te r for fi ve m in u tes, th en add toma t o


.

sauce season wi th sal t a n d pepper reduc e til l O M E L E T WIT H O N I ON S F ry som e thi n


, ,

sl ices O f on ion s wi th a clove of garl ic i n bu t te r


thic k en cl ose a spoon ful wi th i n th e o mele t
, ,
,

turn on t o th e se rvin g d ish garn i sh th e top enclose wi th i n the o mele t ; serve wi th So u fib i s e


,

wi th fancy s trips o f p i m e n to e s an d place a sauce a t th e sides .

Spoonfu l of th e m i x tu re a t eac h end of th e O M E LET WIT H M INC E D C H IC KEN —Take


.

omele t . mince d c ooke d chic k en m oi s ten i t wi th V el ,


T H E C ULIN AR Y H AN D B O O K .

ou t e sauce make ho t enc l ose w i th in t h e ome


, ,
w i th in t h e omele t : se rved wi th some H o ll an .

l e t ; se rve wi th V elou t e sauc e a t th e si d es d aise sauce a t the si d es . .

C R EOL E O M ELE T — C h opped green peppers OM E LE T W I T H T U R KEY L I VER S — B raised


,

on i on s garl ic o k ras an d a l i t tl e boiled rice


, ,
tu rkey l ive r s c u t i n scallops
,
an d mois ten e d

m ad e h o t i n a th ic k toma to sauce encl ose d wi th fi n ,


e h erbs sauce encl osed wi th in th e ,

wi th i n the omele t ; served wi th a spoonfu l of omele t ; served wi th more of the sauce a t the
th e m ix ture a t the si d es sides .

C H OVIE S — Filleted a n
.

O M E LET WIT H AN
ALG E R I ENN E OM B L E T — R i s s o to moisten ed
c h o v i e s cu t in sh reds moistened wi th A u rora
a n d rehea te d wi th toma to
,

p u r e é encl ose d wi th or Gen evoi se sauces enclosed wi thi n the om e


,

i n t h e omele t ; se rve d wi th t omato pu r e é a t the ,

l e t ; serve d wi th the sauce use d a t the si d es the


si d es .
,

top of th e omele t to be garn ished wi th s trips of


O M E L ET WIT H TR U FFLE S — Sl ices O f t r u f th e anchovies I n l at tice work form .
.

fles moi s tene d wi th t ru ffle sauce encl osed wi t h OMELE T WI T H F O IE G R AS — F oi e gras cu t


,
-

i n th e omel e t ; serve d wi th t ru ffl e sauce a t the i n d ice wi th a l i t tl e chopped tru ffle peel ings ,

si d es .
m oi s tened wi th M a d ei ra s auce enclose d wi th ,

OME L E T WI T H PU RE E OF G AM E —A rich i n th e omele t ; served wi th M a d ei ra sauce a t th e


gam e pu re e i s enclosed wi thin th e o me l e t ; si d es th e t op of the o mel e t t o be d ecorated

served wi th game sauce a t th e si d es wi th a sl ice each of foie gras a n d tr u ffl e


.
-
.

I N D I AN O M E L E T —M inced on ion l igh tl y frie d OM EL E T C H IP OL A T A —A s poon ful o f chipo


th en m ixe d wi th th e bea ten eggs a d din g a l a ta garn ish ( see garn ishes ) encl osed wi th in
, ,

season i n g o f cu rry pow d er and a spoonful Of th e O mel e t ; served wi th M ad ei ra sauce a t th e


th ick c ream boiled rice enclosed w i th i n the
,
si d es th e en ds of th e o mele t to be garn i she d ,

ome l et ; served wi th cu rry sauce a t th e si d es wi th Pa ri sienn e po tatoe s .


.

OM EL T WIT H H I K E N PU R E E A rich
E C C — OM E LET WIT H ] E L LY Wi th th e ome l e t
pu re e Of c h icken enclosed wi thi n th e omele t ; m ix tu re add a spoon f u l o f c ream and a very
served wi th V é l o u té sauce a t the sides l i t t l e sugar ; before s tar ting to rol l th e o mel e t
. ,

M I L AN AIS E OMEL E T — B oiled m a c a r O n i spread wi th j ell y then rol l i t up ; wh en turn ed ,

choppe d fin e mi xed wi th Parmesan cheese an d


,
on the serv in g d ish dus t wi th powdere d sugar , ,

a spoonful Of toma to p u r e é en cl osed wi thin th e m ark the top i n l at t ice wo rk styl e wi th a r e d ho t


,

ome l e t ; served wi th Mi lan aise sauce a t the wi re place a l i t tl e more j elly a t th e sides a nd ,

si d e s
.
serve .

OM E LE T WITH S HR I M P PAS T E —Omele t OME L ET WI T H M E R IN G U E — Li t tl e c ream


spread w i th sh ri mp pas te j us t before forming ; an d sugar m ixe d wi th th e bea ten eggs before ,

se rved wi th shrim p sauce a t the sides roll ing sp read wi th j am t hen form ; when on th e
.
, ,


S H RIM P OMEL E T Chopped shrimps i n Au servi n g d ish sprea d w i th mer ingue d ecorate , ,

th e meringue wi th poin t O f kn i f e pl ace i n oven


rora sauce enclose d wi thi n th e omele t tur ned ,
,

til l of a del ic ate f awn c ol or a n d serve a t on ce


on t o the servin g di sh th e top d ecorated wi th,
.

coiled sh ri m ps ; served wi th Au rora sauce a t the O M E LET W I T H C U ST A R D C REA M — L i t tl e


sides . c ream and sugar m ix ed wi th th e beaten eggs a ,

O M ELET WI T H SC ALL OPS —Scallops b l anche d spoon fu l of rich cus tar d crea m enclosed w i t h in
then fried wi th bu t te r cu t i n dice mois tene d
,
the om e le t turn e d on to the servi n g d ish ; serve d ,
,

é
wi t h B chame l sauce enclosed wi thi n th e ome w i th a l i t tle aprico t pu re e a t th e sides .

l e t ; served wi th th e t op d ecora ted wi th a whole O M ELET WIT H M A R M A LADE — L i t tl e crea m


fried scall op B é ch ame l sauce a t the sides
, an d sugar m i xed wi th th e bea ten eggs ; be f ore
.

O M EL E T FI NAN C IERE — A spoon ful O f fin a n rol l ing spread wi th frui t marmala d e f or m , , ,

c i ere garn i sh encl osed wi th in the omele t ; serve d p l ace on serv in g d ish d us t wi th powdere d ,

w i th som e m ore Of the garn ish a t the sides sugar then pla c e i n ho t oven to gl az e or gl az e
. , ,

E C
OM E L T WIT H A LF S H EAD U sefu l t o — ’
wi th a sal aman d e r .

use u p th e re main s of en t ree “ Calf s hea d tur O M E LET WI T H R U M Li t tle c ream a n d sugar

,
"
tl e s t yl e Cu t the meat sm all enclose wi th i n the
.
,m i xed w i th th e bea ten eggs omele t forme d , ,

omele t ; served wi th more of the garn ish at the tu rn ed on t o th e servin g d ish d us ted wi th ,

si d es .
powdered sugar m arked wi th a red h o t wi re , ,

O MELET WIT H CAPON—Cold capon cu t i n ru m m a d e wa rm an d poured aroun d the omel e t ;


d ice and mois tened wi th V é l o u t é sa u ce encl osed then se t on fi re ei th er a t th e en t ran c e to th e
,
,

wi th in the o mele t ; served wi th Supr eme sauce d in in g r oom o r on th e t abl e a t th e reques t O f


a t th e si des . t he gues t .

O M E L E T W I T H C AL F S B R A I N S —Sca l ded O M E LE T S O U FFL E —



On e teaspoon fu l of sugar
an d t r i m me d ca l f s b rain s c u t i n d ice and

to each egg y ol k s an d wh i tes whippe d s e pa r ,

mois t e n ed wi th H o ll andaise sauce enclosed a te l y th e suga r and a teaspoon ful o f cream


, ,
'

T H E C U L I N AR Y H AN D B OO K .

wi th th e yolks th en all st i rred toge ther poure d


, , G LA Z E D ON I ON S —Pee l ed on ion s of a un ifor m
i n to oval d ish o r p an bake d p ar tl y o n top Of , si z e arrang e d i n a shal l ow sau toi r season e d ,

the range th en fi n ishe d i n oven ; wh en n icel y


,
wi th sal t peppe r an d sugar sl igh tly mois ten ed
, ,

pu ffe d dus t wi th po wdere d sugar an d gl az e


, , wi th s toc k covered wi th a shee t O f bu t tered
,

wi th a sal a man d er ; t h e omele t m i x tur e m ay be pape r si m me red ti ll d on e and b rown an d the


, ,

fl avo red wi th m os t an y l iqueu r or cor d ial . l iquor t o a gla ze .

ON I O N S F R IED Large si zed on ion s pee l e d -


, ON I O N P URE E On ion s pee l ed b l anch e d , .

cu t i n fai rl y th ic k sl ices th e r i ngs th en separ , d rained ch o ppe d placed i n a sau toi r wi th bu t


, ,

a ted seasoned w i th sal t d i ppe d i n m ilk then


, , , ter an d l igh tl y fr ie d wi th ou t col or flou r then
'
,

s h aken u p wi th fl ou r t il l coa te d f rie d t i l l d on e ,


added to f orm a ro ux m oi s ten wi th wh i te or ,

i n very h o t d eep fa t l i k e F rench fried p ota toes ; bro wn s toc k accor d ing t o whe th er i t i s to be
wh en d on e d rain ed sprin kl e d wi th sal t ; serv ed
, ,
served wi th boi l ed o r r o as t m ea t si m mer till ,

plai n or as a ga rn i sh . very tender season wi th sal t a n d a l i t tle sugar


, ,

ON I ON S F R IE D — T h in l y s l iced on ion s fri ed then “l b the “711 0 13 th rough a tam i s .

wi th bu t ter bacon fa t beef d ripping e tc ” t il l


. , ’
PI C KLED ON I ON S — S ma l l b u t to n o n i o n s p e e l e d ,

wel l d on e an d b rown su rplus fa t then pou red ,


placed in cro o k s boil in g b ri n e poure d ove r ,

o f} ; used as a garn ish to s teak s .


them al lowe d t o s tan d for 2 4 h ours b rin e then
, ,

ON I O N S I N C R E A M S AU C E — S mall on i on s d rain ed Off on i on s th en covere d wi th scald in g


,

peeled boiled i n sal ted wa ter t il l ten d e r taken h f’ t ( “C t boil i n g ) c i d er vinega r spiced t o t l S t e
, ,
f
u p an d d rained then pu t in to c ream sauce ; used W l t h mace ch i l i es Wh 013 pepper s an d a l i ttle
, ,
,

as a vege tabl e .
h or serad i sh .

B OI L ED ON I ON S — M ediu m si zed on i on s peeled ,


ON I O N V I N EG A R —T wo q uar ts of whi te win e
boil e d w el l don e i n sal ted wa te r ta k en u p and ,
v in egar on e d esser t spoonfu l o f sal t t wo d esser t
, ,

wel l d ra in e d k e p t v e r y h ot ; served wi th a spoon


,
S p o o n f u l S O f g ran ula ted sugar t wO PO U D d S Of ,

f u l of m el ted bu t ter poure d ove r the m ; u sed as pee l e d S pan ish O D i OD S ; gra te th e on i on s m i x ,

v ege t abl e .
t he m wi th th e sugar and sal t a l l o w to m acerate ,

C R E A M ED O N I ON S S mall bu t ton on ion s f o r th re e hours th en pou r ove r th e v in ega r ; fi l l


,

pee l ed s teamed t i l l tender d rain ed th en pu t


, , ,
frui t j ars full sc re w th e l id 0 11 sh a ke W 6 11
, .

i n to a Poule t te sauce ; se rved as a garn ish or eve ry d a y f9 1 a c oupl e O f week s th en s trai n


'

vege tab l e .
Off th rough cheese cl o th fi l l in to bo t tl es and ,

B AKE D ON I O N S S T UFFED Large on ion s cork tigh t ; th is i s very usefu l when a d e l ica te
On ion fl a v o r i s desi red wi th mayon n aise sa l ads
peele d s teamed til l n ear l y d on e cen tre s r e , ,

m oved i n O N E P I E C E which can b e used e tc .

the following d a y f o r t he recipe preced ing the ,


O N I O N S AL AD —T ake e i the r th e B er muda or
ape r ture fi ll e d w i th sausage mea t ba k ed and ,
S pan ish on ion peel sl ice i n r ing s , O f an ,
.

i nch th i ck s team t i l l h al f coo k e d le t becom e


bas te d til l b rown an d gl a zy ; served wi th 3 , ,

l i t tl e mea t gravy poured around .


very cold ; serve on le t tuce leaves w i th Ravi g o te
ON I ON S ON T OA S T — On ion s s teamed til l very sa m e '

wel l don e th en mash ed th rough a coland e r or


,
O N I O N S O U P WI T H C R U ST S — M ak e a th i n
tam i s season ed si m m ered wi th m ea t g rav y ;
, ,
c ream of ch ic k en soup thinly sl ice hal f a poun d ,

O f on i on s to 3 3 011 gal lon Of SOU


fancy cu t sl ic e s of toast then spread thick l y P f r y them W i th ,

wi th th e on i on s an d served very h o t ( a good ,


bu t te r t o a go l den co l o r then a d d th e m to th e ,

th in g for a c old on th e ch es t ) .
soup an d si m m er for ten min u tes ; se rved wi th
a s m l un wee ten e d rusk t o each p l a te
STE WED ON I ON S — O n i on s cu t i n quar ters
g s
.

O P B ER M UD A O N I ON S — B erm uda
,

s teamed t ill h al f d on e then si m mered i n a pars ,


PU R E
ley bu t ter sauce ti ll d on e ; served as a vege tab l e .
on i on s l igh t l y fried W i th bu t ter a n d l i t tle sugar ,

B RA I SED ON I ON S — M e d i um si zed on i on s fl ou r a d d ed t o for m a roux m ois ten ed wi th ,

peel e d bl anch ed d rained ar range d i n a p an


, ,
chicken s tock si m m ered til l d on e th e whole
, ,
,

or b r a s i e r e ba k ed an d b as ted wi t h sl ices of
,
t hen rubbed th rough a tam i s and added t o ,

O f i ts b u l k O f c ream or cream sauce ; se rved


bacon a n d i ts fa t t il l b rown and gla zy ; served ,

as a garn ish o r vege tab l e W ‘ t h c rou ton s .

O N I O N S AU CE — Wel l boi l ed on ion s m ashed A v ari a tion of the above recipe i s after i t i s ,

th rough a tam is sligh tly m oi sten e d wi th sauce


,
passed t h roug h th e tami s place i t back on ,

m ad e fro m m u t ton s tock ; to b e served wi th q ) ? range b r i n g to th e b O i l


, then i d d a rich
f
l i a i so n o f egg yolks an d c ream fin i sh Wi th a

.

boil ed mu t ton .
,

l i t tl e ve ry fi n ely ch oppe d parsley


ON I O N SA U CE — On i on s pee l e d and pa r b o rl e d ,
,

then cu t up small a n d blanched again then ON I O N S O U P WI T H C H EE S E C AN A PE S


,

all owed to si m m er i n a wh i te sauce i f t o be A c ream sou p m a d e O f wh i te S t OCk W i th p l en ty


served wi th boile d m ea t an d i n a brown sauce O f m ince d on ion s boi l e d i n i t ti ll ve ry ten d er
, ,

i f t o be serve d wi th roas t o r braise d m ea t . add ing a l i t t l e choppe d parsl ey ; fancy cu t s l ices


12 0 T H E C U L I NA RY H AN D B OO K .

Sou thern E urope . Ou r rice b i rd doe s duty for the m in a serving cassero l e moi s ten wi t h a r i ch ,

i t here gen erall y . tru ffl e sauce con tain ing p l en ty o f sl iced tru ffles ,

O R T O LA N S I N C R O U S T AD E —T h e b i r d ba k e for ten min u tes i n a q uick o v en ; s erve i n


pl ucked and si nged n ec k and g i z z ard on l y O f ,
th e casserol e .

the in side rem ov ed season wi th n u tmeg sal t , . OX -TA I L S OU P —S a w th e tails i n to nea t pieces
and pepper ; l arge t ru ffl es hol lo wed ou t th e , half inch th ick soak over n igh t i n sa l ted wa ter ;
,

bi rd placed i n the t r u fll e arranged i n a sau toi r , , wi th a l arge si z ed col u mn c u t te r s tamp ou t


wi th bacon over the b reas ts mois ten e d w i th a , s l ices of wh i te an d yell o w tu rn i p carro t ; d rai n ,

m i repoi x an d some M ad ei ra wi n e coo k ed abou t , a n d wi pe th e p i eces of o x tail then sau té the m -


,

twen ty m i nu tes taken up and placed i n a fancy , wi th th e vege tables ad d them t o a ric h brown ,

bread c r o fis t a d e ; red uce the sauce i n sau toi r t o s tock fl avo red wi th s wee t herbs an d celery ,

a d em i gla ze remove the bacon m ask wi th th e


-
, , si m me r ti l l tai ls are tende r and gela tin ou s ,

gl az e ; serve su rr oun d e d w i th watercress .


then thicken the sou p wi th roux season wi th ,

OR T OLAN S IN C AS E S — M ake ( or use t h e sal t and pepper por t win e an d mushroom ca t


,

bough t ones ) a fancy p aste c r o fis ta d e case l in e , sup .

C L E AR OX-T A I L S O U P—A con sommé Of rich


i t wi th foie gras ; or tol an s pl ucked an d singed
-
,

fee t beak an d ski n O f head rem ove d tru ss


, , ,
b rown s tock made wi th roas t m eat poul try and ,
season wi th sal t pepper and n u tmeg pl ace on e , ,
a flavor O f ham i n wh ich i s s l ices Of o x tail and
,
-

i n each l i ned case cover wi th a s trip Of fa t ,


vege tab l e s as i n th e p reced in g reci pe fi n ish ,
bacon roas t i n m odera te oven ab ou t 2 0 m i n
,
w i th a fl avori ng of por t win e .

u tes rem ove t he bacon ; serve wi th a spoonfu l


H AR I C OT O F OX TA I L S —Tai l s separa ted i n
,

-
o f M ad ei ra sauce over th e b i r d .

B RO I L E D O R T OLAN S — Pluck an d singe the thei r n atura l j oin ts th e l arge end spl i t pl aced , ,

bi rd s wi pe wi th a da mp cl o th remov e beak i n a deep sau toi r wi th fa t f ro m th e s tock top


, ,

an d fee t t russ bu t d o n o t d raw season wi th pings and some sl iced on ion s fry a n ice b rown , ,
, , ,

sal t peppe r an d n u t meg wrap i n a b u t tered s toc k th en a d d ed t o wel l cov er s te wed for ,
, ,

pape r case broi l ove r a r aked clean S pace Of abou t th ree hou rs then taken u p t he s tock , ,
,

th e g ril l i n ten m in u tes the b i r d wil l b e d one ; s train ed an d free d from grease th e tail s pl aced ,
,

se rve w i th th e paper su rroun ded wi th water ,


i n ano the r sau toi r wi th sl ices Of b raised carro t
c re ss p aper to be remov ed by wai te r a t the and turn ip sauce m ade from th e s train ed
,
,
'
gues t s re q ues t j us t as abou t to be e a ten .
s tock then poured ove r t he tai l s an d vege ta
,
,

bles season wi th sal t peppe r mush roo m c at


R OAS T O RT OLAN S — The bi rd s plucked and , , ,

sup and por t wine ; se rved wi th in a border of


singed wi ped sl i t m ade i n th e sid e and th e
, ,
mashed po tatoes sprin kl in g th e tai l s wi th fi ne l y
gi z zard removed cu t Off beak an d fee t sk in , ,
,

chopped parsley
the head wh ich place i nsi d e where th e gi z zard
.

wa s , season wi th sa l t p epper an d n u tm eg , ,
C URR Y O F OX T A I L S T ai l s s e pa r ate d i n tb
-

w rap aroun d each a th i n sl i c e o f b acon or ,


n a tu ra l j oin ts th e l arge en d spl i t l igh tl y fried
, ,

wrap each i n a vin e l eaf i f p rocurabl e roas t ,


wi th oni on then taken up i n to a sau toi r covered
, ,

abou t ten mi nu tes ; serve on a f ancy cu t s l ice of wi th a r ich cu rry sauce si m mered ti l l tende r ; ,

b read fried a d el ica te brown wi th bu t te r pou r ,


serve w i th in a border of boi l ed g rai n s Of rice .

roun d a rich M a d eira sauce S AU T E O F O X T AI L S —T ai l s separa ted in thei r


B R OC H E T T E O F O RT O L AN S —Pluck sin ge
. -

, n a tu ra l j oin ts the l arge end spl i t seasoned


, ,

a n d wipe th e b i rds rem ove th e gi z zard rub , , wi th powd e red m ixed herbs rolled i n fl ou r , ,

th e bod y w i th l emon the n roll each on e in so f t , sau te ed a l igh t b rown wi th bu t ter taken up i h ,

m ai tre d h Ote l bu t te r then i n gra te d b rea d


, to a sau toi r covered wi th sauce R ober t si m


, ,

c rumb s ( no t cracker dust ) then thread them on , m ered til l t en de r ; se rved garn i shed wi th a
a ske we r broil ; serv e on toas t bu t tered wi th
, braised j ardin i ere of vege tab l es .

OX T ON G U E B O I L E D — S a l ted o x tongue pu t
th e d rippings fro m t h e broi l in g garn i sh wi th , - -
,
l e mon an d wa tercress .

to boi l i n c o l d wa ter an d cooked ti ll ten d e r


F RI E D O R T O L AN S —The bird s p l ucked and
,

accordin g t o si z e bu t gen eral ly ab ou t th ree,

si nged fee t and beak rem oved gi z z ard s d rawn


, , , h ours then take up an d skin remove the bon es
, ,

h ead skinn ed an d placed where gi z z ard was , fro m th e roo t an d tr i m Off th e was te fa t then ,

r ubbed wi th l e mon d i pped i n m ai tre d h Ote l ' '

, keep h o t in season ed b ro th ; to serve cu t in th in ,

bu t te r th en i n gra ted b rea d c ru mbs th en i n


, , sl ices p l ace th em ove rlappin g each o th er down
,

bea ten eggs and again i n t he c ru mbs pl unged i n , th e cen tre of th e di sh fi rs t d ipp in g each sl ice ,

boi l i n g h o t fa t f ried ten m in u tes ; served wi th


, i n to a j el l ie d gravy or de m i gl aze then ga rn i sh -
,

a rich brown I tal ian sauce .


th e si d es w i th ei the r a pu rée of spin ach fl a ge o ,

TR U FFL E D O RT OL AN S —P l uc k and singe l e t bean s a mac ed oi n e o r j ardin i ere O f veg e ta


,

th e b i rd s remove bea k f ee t a n d gi z zard s k in bles B russel s sp rou ts pi eces O f cau l iflo we r


, , , , , ,

the head an d p l ace where g i z zard was arrange ,


s t ringl ess green bean s or asparagus poi n t s .
TH E C U L IN ARY H ANDB O O K . 12 !

B RAI S E D F R E S H O X T O NG U E — B lanc h and '


D RY ST E W—Sam e a s prece d in g n o m ilk a n d ,

t ri m a good si zed tongue then pl ace i t i n a ,


b u t l i t tle oys ter l iquo r .

b r a i s i e re w i th sl ices O f carro t tu rn ip cele ry , , B OX ST E W — D ry s te w O f the very l arges t


on ion s a few c l oves bay l eaf m ace sa l t pep
, , , , , oys ters placed on a sl ice o f bu t tere d t o as t t h en ,

per and a gl ass of cook ing bra n dy cover wi th , boi l in g c ream wi th a l i t tle bu t te r poured Ov e r
goo d s tock then b r ai se sl owl y till tend er ; when the whole
B OS T ON S T E W—S impl y a m i l k s tew O f coun t
.
,

don e taken up a n d p l aced i n a sau toi r th e


, ,

braise then s t rained and sk i m med then m ixe d , Oys te rs bu t the oy s te rs on toas t as in b ox stew

I N D I AN S T EW—B ox s te w bu t u si n g equal
.
,

wi th some M ad eira sauce a n d re d uced t o h al f ,

gl a ze th i s i s th en poured ove r t he tongue a n d par ts of ch ick en cu rry sauce wi th th e c ream


PH I LAD ELPH I A S T E W—Very l arge oy sters
.
,

kep t ho t in i t ; served i n th i n sl ices Overl appin g


each o ther d own t h e cen tre O f d ish c overed , i n thei r shel l s pl aced on a very ho t gril l ; mean
wi th th e gla ze an d garn i shed wi th smal l que
,
ti m e scal d and s k i m som e Oys te r l iquor season ,

n el l es o r c roque t tes O f potatoes . i t wi th sal t red peppe r a n d bu t ter ; when the


,

S M OK E D O X T ON G U E G E R M AN STYL E - Oys ters are b roile d remove th e m f ro m th ei r ,


,

S mok ed t ongue soak ed ove r n igh t in col d wa ter , she l ls pl ace them i n th e boil in g l i q uor ; serv e
,

th en sc rubbed parboi l ed for h al f an h our taken


, ,
i n soup pl ate garn i shed wi th s t rips O f bu t tere d
,

u p and trim me d then placed i n a sau toi r wi th toas t .

B R O ILED S H E L L OYS T E R S —Scrub the shell s


,

wel l washed sauer k rau t on ion s tuck wi th -


,

c l oves carro t a n d a bunch Of soup herbs ; m ois


,
c l ean l ay them on a very h o t g rill when they
, ,

ten wi th s tock lay sl ices of fa t sal t por k ove r


, O pen thei r shel l s take th e m u p a n d rem ove th e ,

th e top pu t on the l id and pl ace i n a me d ium


,
fl a t shel l a l so l oosen th e O ys ter f ro m th e deep
,

ov en c ook til l tongue i s tende r abou t t wo


, , shell place a fe w d rops Of mel te d bu t ter or
,

hours ta k e up ; serve i n th i n sl ices wi th P o i v


,
m ai tre d h ote l bu t ter on each O yster then

rade sauce fl anke d wi th the sauer krau t


,
-
. se rve v ery ho t .

B OIL E D S M OKED T ON G U E S AUC E P I B RO ILED OY STE R S —Ve ry l arge oys ters wiped
Q UANTE —S mo k ed tong ue soaked overn igh t
,

d ry season ed wi th sa l t a n d peppe r d i pped i n


, ,

in c o l d wa ter t hen scrubbe d pu t to bo i l i n


, , flou r arranged be tween a wi re h inge d broiler
, ,

co l d water cooked till tende r taken up sk inn ed


, , , brush wi th me l ted bu t ter broil til l d on e bas t , ,

an d t ri mm e d ; served i n sl ice s wi th Pi q uan te ing wi th bu t te r wh il e broil in g ; se rve ove rl ap


sauce garn ished wi th gherkin s
,
. pin g each other Ou bu t te re d toas t garn i sh wi t h ,

B RA I S E D FR E S H T ON G U E S A U CE I TAL ,
cress an d quar tered l emon s .

I AN — F resh o x tongue pu t to boi l i n col d - B R OI L E D OY ST E R S B RE AD CR U M BED


wa ter boiled on e hour taken u p sk inned a n d
, , ,
S am e way as th e p receding bu t af te r d ipp i n g ,

t ri mm ed then l arded w i th season e d s tri ps Of


,
i n flour they are d ipped i n bea ten eggs th en
, ,

fa t pork and l ean s trip s o f h am a rranged in ,


ro l led in bread ( no t c racker ) crumbs .

b r a i s i e r e wi th sl iced vege tables herbs spice s , , D EVIL L E D OY ST E R S Oysters s c a l d e cl


and pieces of fa t bacon mois tened wi th s tock , , d rain e d cu t in squa res the l iquor wi th a l i t tle
, ,

b rai sed t i l l ten de r taken up the braise r e , , c ream made i n to a th ick bu t ter sauce w i th an
d u c e d s train ed a n d s k i m med then added to a
, , added egg yo l k or t wo ; season wi th sa l t red ,

th ick rich brown I tal ian sauce th e tongue , pepper an d chopped parsl ey then add th e oy s ,

served i n slices wi th th e sauce and garn i shed ters fil l in to l arge dee p oy s ter shel l s th en
, ,

wi th sau te ed bu t ton mushroom s . s trew th e top wi th breadcru mbs a n d mel ted


OY ST E R STEW— B ul k oysters ( selec ts ) for b u t ter bake o ff a de l ica t e brown and serve very
,

ho te l s when serve d for dinners breakfast s sup hot .

PAN N E D OYST E R S —An o the r form of d ry


, ,

pers l uncheon s and caterin g par ties C oun ts


, , .

for restau ran t orders club and E u ropean plan , stew ; oys ter s washed an d d rain ed very h o t ,

orde rs T he O ys ters scald ed i n thei r Ow n


. f ry ing pan wi th a l i t tle mel ted bu t te r oys ters ,

liquo r taken u p th e l iquor ski m m ed and


, , th rown i n an d shu ffled abou t til l they si z zl e ,

poured back t o th e oysters m ilk b rough t to th e , t urn e d ou t in to a sm al l ho t soup p l a te season ,

boil ; bow l or serving di sh con tain ing a piece of wi th sal t an d c ay e n n e .

G OOD b u t te r sa l t dash O f re d pepper ; O ys ters


, , R OAST S HE LL OY S TE R S —T h e sh e l l s scrubbed
and l i q uo r pou red to i t th en fi ll ed up w i th , cl ean arran ged i n a b a k in g pan , pl aced i n a
,

boil in g milk ; served wi th oyster c rackers : a dish very h o t ov en ; wh en th ey O pen remove t h e ,

O f fi n el y sh red c abbage i s some times served


fl a t shel l a n d l oosen th e oys te r f rom th e deep
wi th i t bu t why ? -
shell pl ac e a l i t tl e mel ted b u t te r i n each serve
, ,

C R E AM S T E W Prepared as above using ,


quick l y wi th s t rip of h o t bu t te red toas t asi d e .

c ream in s tea d Of m ilk .


SC A L L OP E D OYS T E R S —B ak in g pan i n ch an d
PLAI N ST E W— Same as oys te r stew above u s ,
a hal f deep b rush ed wi th bu t te r oyste r c rac k
, ,

ing more oys te r l iquor an d n o mil k . ers rol l e d fi ne t h e bu t t ered


12 2 T H E C U L IN A R Y H AN D B O O K

.

pan wel l l in ed wi th them o y s te rs d rain e d l ai d , ,


b read an d bacon fry ; serve on toas t ,
w i th
m fii t r e d h Ote l bu t te r an d quar tered l emon
'
al l over th e rol led crac k e rs seasoned l igh tly ,
.

wi th sa l t a n d Peppe r ( m ix e d ) t h e “ w e “ COV :

C R OU STAD E O F OYSTE R S —Oysters s c ai d e d


ered wi th mo re of th e c racker s th is then ,
i n their own l i quor taken up the l i q uo r then , ,

sprinkled wel l wi th a m i x tu re o f oy ste r l iquor ,


ad d e d t o equal quan ti ties of V el ou té an d a n
m il k and mel te d bu t te r th en anot h e r l aye r of ,
c h o v y sauces re d uce ti ll th ick th en a d d th e
, ,

oy s ters sea son as be f ore cover wi th th e rolled


, ,
o ys ters fi l l in to fan cy c r o fis t a d e s sp rinkl e
, ,

c rackers m ois ten we l l w i th th e m ix e d l i quo rs


, ,
over th e tops a m ix tu re Of gra t e d Parmesan
bake quickl y w e l l d on e b u t a d el ica te b rown ; ,
cheese a n d b readc rumbs b ake a del icate ,
c u t ou t i n squa res ; serve very ho t garn i sh w i th ,
brown in a quick oven and ser v e o n ho t p l ate
c ress an d l emon [ Fo r in d ividu a l or d ers i n
.

wi th pape r doil y .

scall op she l ls they sh oul d b e prepa red the


OYSTE R S B AKED WIT H M U S H ROOM S
,

sam e way ] .

ST E A M E D OYST E R S —Shel l oys ters w e l l


Fricassee th e oysters and mush rooms h avin g ,

the sauce thick fi ll i n to i nd iv idual mo l ds o r


scrubbed place d i n a s teame r t ur n on ful l
, ,
,

shells sprinkle th e top wi th mi xed chee se an d


s team t i me th ree m in u tes ; mean t i m e take a
,
,

b readcrumbs bake a d el ica te b rown ; serve


smal l deep soup p la te i n i t h av e mel t ed bu t ter, ,
,

v ery h o t
sal t an d a d ash of r e d peppe r open ou t th e .

FR ICAS S E E O F OY ST E R S —Oys ters scalded


,

oys ters and the i r l iquo r in t o i t ; serv e v ery h o t


wi th s t rips O f bu t tered toas t .
til l pl um p i n boil ing m ilk taken up bu t ter , ,

G L AZ E D OY STE R S ON T O A ST L arge oys ters - mel te d i n sau toi r an d all owed to fri z zl e w i th
wiped d ry sau t e ed qu ic k ly w i th bu t ter tak e up
,
ou t becom in g colore d fl ou r then a d ded to for m ,
, ,

pour the liquor from the sau te ein g in to a rich a rou x mad e in to th ick sauce wi th th e m il k
, ,

M ad eira sauce add ing a p i ece o f gla ze re d uce season ed wi th sal t r e d pepper l emon j u ice an d , ,
, ,

th i s rapidly to h al f gl a ze ; h ave th e servin g a d ash of H arvey sauce fi n ished wi th a l i aison ,

Of egg y olk s a n d cream H o t servin g pl at te r


pla t te r h o t wi th s tri p Of bu t t ered toas t d own . ,

the cen tre d i p th e oy ste rs in to th e h al f gl aze bu t tered toas t d own the cen tre oysters d ipped ,
,

a n d arrange the m overl appi n g each o ther on


i n the s au c e pl a c e d over l appin g each o ther down
,

th e toas t garn ish wi th c ress an d l e mon .


the toas t ; served wi th more Of th e sauce a t
,

B A C ON C OAT E D OYST E R S F RIE D —La rge


the sid es .

oys te rs wiped d r y very th i n sl ices O f parboiled B AK E D OYST E R S W I T H C H E E S E - Oys ters


,

bacon rolled roun d th e oy s te rs a n d pin ne d wi th wipe d d ry the n roll e d i n si f te d brea d crumb s


,

a too th pick d ipped i n ba t te r frie d too thpick .


tha t are m i xed wi th Parmesan c heese and
, ,

wi thd rawn ; se rved wi th tom a to sauce .


ch opped par sley seaso n ed wi th sal t and pep ,

per mo is ten e d wi th l i t tle wh i te win e ; arrange


S AUC E C O AT E D OYS T E R S F R I E D —Large
,

,
i n scal lop shell s trew wi th m ore cheese bak e , ,
oys te rs wi pe d d r y d ippe d in to a thick V i l l e r o i
,
a del icat e b rown an d serve ve ry h o t .

sauce all owed to s e t then d ipped i n to beaten


FR I ED OYS T E R S— Coun t oys ters rolled i n
, ,

eggs rolled we l l i n si f ted brea d crumbs fried a


, ,

gol d en brown ; served ga rn ished wi th quar tered c racker dus t or yell ow corn meal then in h ea t ,

l e mon .
en eggs then i n th e m ea l again fried ; se r ved
, ,

wi th quar tered l emon


OY ST E R S ST UF F E D AND B R O ILED — On e
.

p in t o f egg yolks s t i rred wi thou t m uch bea ti n g F AN C Y F RY Coun t O ysters wi ped d r y sea ,
,

s o n e d w i th mixed sal t an d red pepper d i ppe d


poure d i n to a bu ttere d p an a n d s teamed till se t ,

fi rm a l l owed to cool th en gra te the m ; on e in flou r then i n m ixed beaten eggs a n d wh ipped
,
, ,

poun d of cooked fa t sal t p o rk m inced ve ry fi n e c ream th en i n si f ted breadcru mb s p re ssed


, ,
,

add ed t o th e g ra ted y olks w i th som e ch opped sl igh tl y be tween t h e han d s fried a gol d en ,

parsl e y ; season to taste wi t h sal t and pepper ; brow n wi th bu t te r ; served wi th q uar tere d
five d o zen large Oys t ers w i ped d ry sl i t ma d e in lemon an d garn ished wi th g reen s t u ff ,

OY S T E R S B AKED WIT H P OT ATOE S —La rge


,

thei r sid es s tu ff e d w i th th e m i x ture rol led i n


, ,

si f te d breadcru mbs th en rolled in mel te d bu t


,
oys ter s wipe d d ry season e d w i th sal t an d pep ,

te r a n d aga i n i n th e cr umb s arran ge be t ween ,


pe r D uchesse po ta to m ix tu re rolled ou t th in
.
,

a w i re h inged br oi ler broi l a golden brown , ,


cu t ou t in di amon d shapes oys ters laid i n the ,

bas ting wi th bu t ter ; se rv e garn i shed wi th cen tre edg e s folded over and pi nched i n to
,

qu ar te red l e mon and fried parsley . shape arranged i n a bu t tered bakin g pan
, ,

B R O C H ET T E O F OYS T ER S — M ince som e b rushed over wi th beaten egg baked a gol d en ,

thy m e pa rsley an d shal l o ts v ery fi n e ad d a


, ,
brown ; se rve d v ery h o t .

l i t t l e sal t an d pepper ; wi p e l arg e Oy s te rs d r y ,


OY S T E R L OAF— S m al l F rench rol l s in sides ,

roll th e m i n th e h e rbs th en di p i n bea ten eggs , ,


holl owed ou t the loa f shell then fried a golden
,

then i n si f te d b rea d crumb s th en arrang e th e m , brown wi th bu t ter the i n terior then fi ll e d wi th ,

al terna tely on a skewer wi th pi eces o f swee t a fricassee of oyste rs .


12 4 T H E C U L I N AR Y H AN DB O O K .

m us h room s then added boiled fin ished to , , sp rinkl e wi th chi l i sauce c over wi th anothe r ,

proper th ick n ess wi th a l i aison Of egg yo l k s slice of to a s t tri m the ed g es c ut across and
, ,

an d c ream ; tu rn ed in to a bu t tered sh al lo w pan , serve .

sm oo t h ed cov e r ed wi th a sh ee t of O i l ed pape r
, ,
B R E AD E D OYST E R S C E L E RY S AU C E ,

a l lowed to becom e fi rm and col d then for med ,


Large oysters wi ped d ry seasoned wi th sa l t ,

i n to sh ape of sausages b readed fri ed ; served , ,


and pepper d ipped i n mel ted bu t ter then i n
, ,

wi th b rown Oy s ter sauce .


fresh gra ted breadc ru mbs pl ace be tween a
OY ST E R C UT L E T S M IN C E D —T h e c ro q ue t te
,

wi re h in ged b roi l e r b roi l rapidly a del icate ,

p repara tion m ade i n to the sh ape of rib chop s , brown then pl ace on a n arrow s trip o f h o t
,

breade d f ried ; served wi th brown oys ter sauce


.
.
fresh bu t te red toas t ; se rve wi th ce l ery c ream
OY STE R R I S S OL E S — C ri mped ci rcl es of pu ff sauce poured arou n d .

paste the cen t re con t ain in g some oys ter c ro


,
OYST E R B O U C H E E S —For two d ozen b l anch ,

q u e t te m ix tu re e d ges then fo l ded ove r an d


,
fou r d ozen oys te rs i n thei r own l iquo r take up ,

p inched brushed wi th eg g wash baked


, ,
.

and place t wo i n each bouche e st rain the l iquor


OY ST E R S T U FFI N G — F o r fi sh and poul try
,

throu gh m u s l in add i t s e q ual vol ume of rich ,

oys ters blanch ed an d d rain ed cu t i n qu ar te rs , .


tomato pure e then season wi th bu t ter and,

or if u sing S tandards leave the m whol e M oi s t ,


.
tabasco sauce bring to th e b oil keep the , ,

s ta l e bread g rated on e par t ro l led oyste r crack , b o u c h e é s ho t and when servin g fi l l up wi th


, ,

er s on e par t the th i r d par t O f oy s te rs the


, , th e boi l in g sauce .

OYST E R P L ANT FR I E D —Scraped c l ean and


wh ol e m ixed toge ther an d season ed wi th sal t ,
,
peppe r an d chopped parsl ey th e l iquor b rough t ,
l aid i n co l d wate r con tain ing sal t an d a l i t tl e
to the boi l wi th an addi t ion Of bu tter pou red ,
wh i te v in egar ; wh en t o be cooked fi rs t boil ,
t o th e d r y m i x tu re s ti rred th en ready for u se .
, ,
tende r th en take up a n d d rain d i p in to frying
OYST E R S O U P—Sca l d th e oyster s d rai n strain
, ,

, ,
bat ter pl unge in to ho t fat fry a d el icate brown
, , ,
th e l i q uo r th rough m us l in bri n g to th e boil , ,
take up sprinkl e wi th sal t and serve as a veg
,

s eason wi th sal t red pepper mace H arvey , , ,


e table .

an d Anch ovy sauces flou r a n d bu t ter roux


B OI L E D —P r e p a r e a s
, ,

m oi s ten ed wi th th e s t rain ed l iquor boiled up OYST E R PL AN T ,


, ,

ski m me d then pou red to an equal quan ti ty of above then boi l tender take up and drai n
, , ,
,

B éch amel sauce add th e sca l ded oys te rs ; se rv e pl ace i n vege tab l e s tea mer c ove r wi th c rea m ,
,

w i th oys ter crackers .


sauce ; serve as a ve g e tab l e .

OYST E R S OU P O ys t ers and thei r l iquor sca l ded


-
OY ST E R P L AN T S AU CE P O U LETT E —Sc rape ,

i n s t rong fi sh broth ta k en u p an d d raine d the clean cu t i n s mall pieces l ay i n aci d u l ate d


, ,
, ,

l i q uor s t rain ed ; a can of mu sh room s open e d water for an hou r then boil till tender i n boi l ,
-
,

l iquo r poured t o th e broth th e m ushroo m s ing wa ter con tain in g sa l t an d an d a l i t t l e wh i te


,

mi nced wi th s o m e s h al l o t s frie d wi th pl en ty Of v in ega r ; wh en don e taken up tu rned i n to hot , ,


,

bu t ter then taken up and added to the scalded Poul e t te sauce an d served .

OYS T E R PLANT F R ITT E R S —Prepared and


,

oys ters ; flou r added t o th e frying bu t ter t o


for m a roux thi s then th in n ed to soup con sis t
,
boil ed as above wh en d rain e d m ashed th o r , ,

ency wi th the boil in g broth season to taste , , o u ghl y then seas on ed an d s t i ff en ed wi th sal t
, ,

O y s te rs e tc then ad d ed wi th som e chopped


, .
, peppe r yol k of egg and flou r spoonful s then
, ,

pars l ey a n d a g l ass Of wh i te win e ; serve wi th fried i n h o t fa t taken u p sprink l ed wi th sal t


, ,

oy s ter c rackers . and served .

OY ST E R G U M B O— M inced on ion s green pep , S T E W E D OY ST E R PL AN T —The p l an t p re


pe rs and ham frie d wi th pl en ty of bu t te r then , pared and boiled as above then s tewed in a

t ak en up oys ters scal d e d i n thei r Own l iquor


, rich mea t gravy sauce ; served on ho t bu t te red
an d fi sh broth taken up an d draine d h al f a, , toa s t

ga ll on can o f toma toes rubbed th rou gh a fi n e OY S T E R PLAN T S AU T E — The p l an t p repared ,

siev e then adde d to th e s train ed l iqu or an d boil e d d rain ed th en rol l ed i n flou r sau te ed a
, , ,
boiled ski mmed !flou r added to the bu t ter t o
, ,
go l den brown wi th bu t ter ; served on t oas t wi th
for m a roux m oisten ed to soup con sisten cy
,
ho t mai tre d ho tel sauce pou red over

.

wi th th e boilin g l iquor an d toma toes season ed


PANC AKE S — Kn own to us i n every househ old
, ,

t wo can s of okra then a d d e d wi th a l i tt l e b o i l e d “


rice then the O ysters an d o ther fried i n g r e d i as F or reci pes see heading ,
,
" "
of
-
ba t te r
en ts ; served wi th oyster c racke rs .

PA RM E SAN —N ame Of an I ta l i an cheese ; see


.

OY STE R SANDWI C H —T hree or four d ozen “


oys ter s d ried wi th a clo th me l ted bu t te r i n a h ea d i n g Of cheese
,

fryin g pan d rop i n the oy s ters and sau té the m


,
PA R S L E Y— A garden herb u sed as a garn ish ; to .

b rown take up ch op fi ne season wi th sa l t an d


, , ,
orn amen t dish es ch opped and mi xed i n s auce s , ,

pepper s pread on ho t th i n bu t tered toas t


, ,
s tews soups sa l ad s e tc
, , , .
THE C UL I N A R Y H AND B O OK . I

PA RSN IP—A r o o t v e ge t ab l e peeled cu t in fi n ge r , , peppe r sau te ed wi th bu t ter a de l ic ate brown


, ,

l eng ths boiled i n sal te d wate r ta k en u p a n d


, , ta k en up m inced sh all o ts t h en a d de d to th e
,

d rai n ed ; served as an accom pan i men t to boil e d bu t ter wi th bu t ton m ush room s a n d fried ;
sa l t l eg of pork . when brown ed su rplus bu t te r poured Off par t , ,

P AR S N I PS C R E AM SA UCE — B oil e d i n fi nger


,
ridge pu t bac k covere d wi th Espagn ol e boiled , ,

length s d rai ne d , p l aced i n cream sauce ; served


,
up a n d sk i m me d season ed wi th M a d eira wine , ,

as a vege tabl e .
sim mere d t ill tender ; served ga rn ish ed wi th
PA R S N IP S FR I E D I N B ATT E R—B oi l ed i n fancy c r o fit o n s .

finger l ength s i n sa l ted wa t er taken u p a n d ,


S AL M I O F PAR T RI D G E —T h e bi r d s singed ,

d rai ne d dipped in ba t ter fri e d in ho t l ard


, , .
d rawn wiped t russe d roas ted cooled quar t
, , , , ,

ta k en up sprin kle d wi th sal t and served


, .
ered the bac k and b reastbone s wi th o ther
,

P AR SN I P F R IT T E R S — B oiled m ashed sea , ,


t ri mm in gs th en place d i n some E spagn o l e wi th
s o n e d an d s ti ff en e d wi th sal t pepper yo l ks of , ,
bacon m inced on ion bay l eaf thym e a n d
, , ,

eggs an d flou r fri e d by spoon f ul s in ho t l ard ,


crushed peppers brough t to the boil a n d rap ,
,

ta k en up sp rinkle d wi th sal t se rve d


, ,
.
i d ly re d uce d sk i m me d s train e d over the bi rd s
, ,

P AR SN I P S A U T E E S —B oi l ed tender i n finger in ano th er sau toi r season ed wi th sh erry wi ne , ,

l eng ths d rain e d season e d w i t h sal t a n d pep si mm e red a few m inu tes ; served garn i shed wi th
, ,

c r o fit o n s
pe r roll ed i n fl our sau te ed a d el icate b rown .

PA R T RID G E L A R DED AN D B R AI SED —The


, ,

wi th bu t te r taken up spr i n kl ed wi th chopped


, ,

pa rsley and served .


bi r d s singed d rawn a n d wiped th e b reas ts
, ,

M AS HE D P A RSN IP S —B oi l ed ten d er mashed , ,


lar d ed trusse d arranged i n b r a s i e r e wi th slices
, ,

O f roo t vege tabl es a n d swee t he rbs ; p l ace a fe w


season ed wi th sal t an d pepper m i l k and bu t ter ; ,

serve d as a vege tab l e s l ices of bacon on top m ois ten wi th a l i t t l e ,


.

s tock cover wi th a shee t of bu t te red pape r


B AK E D PAR SN IPS —Pee l ed qu ar t e r e d s te am e d
, ,

, ,
pl ace on th e l id and pu t i n a sl ow oven to cook
ti l l n ear l y d on e take n up an d arra n ged in a ,
i n i ts own steam for abou t t wo hou rs ; when
bu t t ered baki n g pan seasoned wi th sal t and ,
don e tak e up add a game sauce t o th e l iquor
, ,
peppe r m oiste n ed wi th rich gravy an d bu t ter
, ,
i n the b r a s i e r e reduce st rain fl avor wi th , , ,
ba k e d tender a n d brown
s h erry w i n e gl a ze the b irds ; serve wi th the
.

PA RT R ID G E B R O IL E D —You n g bi r d s s p l i t
,

sauce .

d own th e back b reas tbon e re move d tru sse d, ,


, PA R T R ID GE S AUT E WIT H R I SSOT O—Young
season ed wi th sal t an d pepper b rushed wi th ,
bi rd s sin ged d rawn wiped j oin ted season e d
, , , ,

ol i ve Oi l b r oile d a n d b a sted we ll don e ; served


,
wi th sal t and peppe r fried l igh tly wi th bu t te r ,
,

on bu t tere d toas t w i th mai t re d hotel bu t te r ’

, tak en up ; in to the bu tter t h ey were f r i e d i n


garnished wi th j elly an d p a rsl ey ; m a y also be add flo u r to form a roux mois ten wi th game ,

ga rn ished wi th slice s of fried hom in y or bacon , s toc k made f rom the backbones an d t ri mm ings ,

o r af te r b roi li n g serv ed wi th ei th e r Colber t ,


, a d d th e j uice and a l i t tle of the gra ted rind O f a
I tal ian or M ad ei ra sauces .
sou r orange pu t i n the fried b i rds si m mer
, ,

R O AS T P A RT R ID G E — You n g bi rd s singed an d sl owl y til l tende r ; serve d wi th a border of ris


d rawn wiped wi th towel t ru ssed wi th a sl ice
, , so to .

O f fa t bacon tied over t h e breas t roasted abou t ,


B R E A S T OF PA R TR I D G E LA R D E D AND
h al f an h ou r ; served wi th gam e sauc e an d r ed FR IED — T ake the breas ts t ri m an d l ard them , ,

cu rran t j el l y .
season wi th sa l t pepper and powd ered th yme
B OI LE D PA RT RID G E —S inged drawn wiped
, ,

, , d i p i n beaten egg then rol l i n freshly grated ,

an d t russe d boile d i n wh i te s tock ti l l ten d er ;


, breadcrumbs arrange i n a sau toi r pou r ove r
, ,

se rve d wi th a rich cream sauce . m el ted bu t te r p l aced in a modera te oven an d


,

B O I LE D PART RID G E G AR N I S HED Par t ,


- b rown n icel y on both sid es ; serve on a fancy
c ro fl to n wi th a l i t t l e R ichel ieu or Sul tan a sauce
r i d ges singe d d raw n wiped and tru ssed pu t to, , ,

boil wi th cabb age bacon pork sausage s , ,


poured aroun d .

frankfor ts parsl ey wh i te s tock an d a l i t t l e


, , E P I G R AM M E O F P A R T R I D G E W I T H
sher ry w in e ; wh en tende r taken up the mea t s , ,
M U S H R OO M S —T ake you n g bi rds remove ,

al so parsley th rown a way cabbage pressed


, ,
th e b reas ts l ard the m bread and f ry as pre
, ,

d r y th e n ch opped th e rem ain in g l iquor s trai ned


, ,
ced i n g on e hal f of them slowly broi l the r e ,

in to a rich ga me sauce To se rve place a .


,
main ing h al f ( so tha t you have on e p l ai n a n d
,

spoon ful Of cabbage i n cen t re of d ish por tion ,


on e bread ed ) d i sh u p on e Of each poin ts cross
, ,

of b i r d on i t fl an ked wi th a pi ece Of bacon , ,


in g each o ther garn ish wi th fried mush room s ,

sau sage frankfor t ( skin ne d ) sauce pou red


, , in a Fume t sauce .

O ve r .
B R E AS T OF PA R T RID G E S AU C E C O L ,

PA RT R I D G E S A UT E — Youn g bi rd s Sin ged ,


B E R T— T ake th e breas ts of young b irds l ard ,

d rawn wiped j oin ted seas oned wi th sal t and


, , ,
them s l owl y b roi l the m til l done ; se r v ed on
,
12 6 T H E C U L I N ARY H AN DB O OK .

b n tte r e d toas t wi th
sauce C o l ber t poured PART R I D G E R I S S OL E S S AU C E R I C H E ,

a round . LI E U — M ak e a c roque t te m ix ture wi th cold


B R EAS T OF PARTR I D G E G LAZ E D V E G E cooke d par tridge a n d game s au c e stam p ou t
, I

T AB LE S —T ake th e b reas ts o f y oung bi rds c ri mped ci rcles Of thi n pu ff paste p l ace a l i ttle . ,

lard and r oas t them Wi th an h al f inc h si ze d col .


of th e mi x tu re i n th e cen t res fo l d ove r the ,

u m n cu t ter cu t inch l eng th s o f carro t an d tur


,
edges a n d pinch cl ose fry o r bak e them of a ,

n ip braise and gl aze them togeth e r wi th bu t


,
gol d en co l or and serve wi th a R iche l ieu sauce , .

ton on ion s u s e the m as a garn ish to th e b reas ts E M IN C E O F PA RTR I D G E —T ake co l d roas t


, ,

an d pour game sauce around par tr i d ge cu t i n b road thi n sl ices si m mer i t i n


.

, ,

PA R TR ID G E B RA I SED WI T H CABB AG E equal par ts o f wh i te game a n d Go d ard sauces ;


Take Ol d bi rds braise th e m wi th sl iced v e ge
, serv e on toas t garn ish e d wi th sau te ed fresh ,

tables a n d swee t he rbs til l three par ts d on e bu t to n m ush roo ms , .

take up in to a sau toir add cu t cabbage pou r S ALPIC ON OF PA R T R ID G E —T ake cold c ooked
, ,

over the s trained liquor they were brai se d in par t ri d ge cu t the mea t i n sma l l d ice also some ,
, ,

add so me th in s l ice s Of bacon ( if n ot enough t r u fll e s red tongue and bu t ton m ush rooms cu t , ,

l iquor add some wh i te s tock ) si m m er ti l l done sam e S i z e as th e b ir d m i x m oi s ten wi th ei the r


, ,
, ,

l igh tly thicken th e liquor w i th fl ou r an d b u t ter ; game B é chame l or S up r e m e sauces ; se rve ,

se rve por tion Of bi rd wi th s l ice Of bacon on garn i shed wi th smal l po tato c roque t tes .

t op cabbage arou n d an d a l i tt l e gam e sauce C R O U STADES O F PA R T R IDGE — Take co l d


, ,

over th e bi rd .

cooked pa r t ridge cu t the mea t in sma l l s q uares , ,

P A RT R ID G E B R E A D C R U M B E D A N D si m mer i t in a rich gam e sauce then add a ra g


B R OI LED —T russ the b i rd ou t l i k e a frog
,

O d t Of mu sh rooms cock s comb s an d swee t ,


,

season wi th sal t an d pepper d i p t wice i n beat brea d s ; serve i n pas te c r o fis tad e s garn ish wi th
,
,

en eggs an d fresh g ra ted breadc rumbs broil fancy c ro u ton s ,


.

s l owl y till don e ove r a cl ear fi re ; serve on t oas t


H AS HE D PA RTR I D G E WI T H EG G — Take
wi th I ta l ian sauce .

cold cooked par tri d ge cu t the mea t i n smal l


O F PART R I D G E W I T H C RAY
' ,
F I LL E T S
squares l igh tl y fry i t wi th bu t ter a d d flour t o
F I S H —T a k e th e upper an d l ower fi lle t s from
, ,

f orm a r o fix m ois ten wi th gam e s tock si mmer , ,


th e breas t s t ri m a n d l ard the m arran ge the m
,
fo r fi f teen min u tes ; se rve on toas t wi th a
,

i n a sau toi r wi th s l ices of bacon moi sten ed wi th tri mmed and d rain ed poach e d egg on top then
,
,

l i t t l e s tock and whi te wine cover wi th a shee t garn ish th e en d s w i th fancy c r o fit o n s


,
.

O f bu t tered paper pl ac e on th e l id b raise i n ,


,
P A R T R ID G E C R O Q UE T T E S S A U CE P E R I
th e oven ; w h en don e glaze them s trai n a n d ,

,
G U E U X — C ol d cook ed par tridge m i nce d th ick
,

sk i m th e braise then add i t to an Allema n d e ,


,
game s auce hea ted par tri d ge worke d in s ti r red
sauce To serve : pl ace a r ag o flt of c rayfi sh
.
, ,

ti l l i t boils two or th ree wh ipped yolk s of egg


tail s i n cen tre O f d ish l arge fi lle t Of par tr i d ge ,
,

may be wor k ed i n turn i n to bu t tered p a n ,


a t each en d wi th poi n ts m ee tin g over th e rag
,

smooth l e t i t become th oro u gh l y cold form i n


O d t s m a l l fil le ts a t each si d e poin t s upwar d s , ,

,
to shapes of corks bread fry ; serve wi th P eri
, ,
, ,
sprinkl e ove r al l a l i t t l e l obs ter c ora l and pou r
gueux sauce ,
.

the sauce around .

PA R T R ID G E P AT T IE S P repare t he mix tu re
F I L L E T S OF PA RT R ID G E P A R I S I A N as given for “
c ro u s ta d es of par tri d ge
,
fi l l e i the r
S T YL E — Take th e fi lle ts and coa t them w i th in to pa t ty o r v o l au v en t cases an d serve - -
.

Allem an de sauce then i n beate n eggs and si fted ,


S TEWE D PA R T R ID G E — O l d bi rds l ard them
b re adcrumbs then sprinkl e wi th mel ted bu t ter
,
, ,

p l ace the m in a sau toi r w i th a p iece Of f a t


a n d press on a l i t tl e more of the crumbs sau té ,
bacon swee t h erbs vege tabl es mois ten wi th
the m Of a golden col or w i th clear bu t ter when ,
, , ,

whi te win e and s tock l e t them s tew slowly till


d on e ta k e up an d d rain ; mean w hil e prepare a
, ,
,

tende r then take up an d cu t in to quar ters


r a g o flt Of c rayfi sh t a i l s b u t t o n m u s h r o o m s c o c k s
, ,

s trai n th e l i q uor they we re s te we d in sk i m Ofl


, ,

kern el s an d s mal l tru ffles moisten wi th a l i tt l e ,


,

the fat reduce i t th en add i t a n d th e bird s to


gam e gla ze A lle mande sauce c ra yfi sh bu t te r
, ,
, ,

a C hi pol at a garn i sh ( see garn ishes ) ser v e


a n d lemon j uice T O se rve : place the rago u t
.

th e bird wi th the garn i sh around


i n cen tre Of d ish the fil le t s aroun d i t decor a te
.

PA RT R ID G E S A LAD —C o l d roast bi rd s skinned


,

the base wi th scall ops Of to n gue and serve ,


,

som e more of th e sauce fro m the r ago fit separ tri mm ed in to n ea t pieces moistened wi th one ,

p ar t of tarragon vin egar t o t wo of Ol ive O i l


a te .
,

P A R T R I D G E WIT H B AC ON C E L E R Y add a l i t tl e ch oppe d chervi l an d chives season ,


,


S A U C E T ake Ol d bi r d s and boi l them wi th wi th sal t a n d c ayenn e m ix al l toge th er wi th an ,

equal quan ti ty of ul i enn e cu t celery ( li ke


sal t por k carrots oni on s a n d turnips i n wh i te
, ,
j
ma tc hes ) ; se rve on a bed O f cu rl y en d ive garn
s tock til l ten d e r ; se r ve i n por tions w i th a sli ce ,

i sh wi th ri g s f hard boi l ed eggs and fi l l e te d


of th e pork a t the si d es a d a pu re e of celery


n ,
n O

i n a whi te gam e sauce pou red over anchovies . .


12 8: T H E C U L INA RY H AND B O OK .

B OTTL E D P E A C H E S—R i p e l a r ge j uicy p eaches peaches pl aced in to each bake d then a piping , ,

p e e l e d f a n d h a l ved
_ th en w eighe d ; to each , Of mer i ngue round th e e d ges sprinkled wi th
pou n d all ow on e poun d O f sugar T ake a ston e
,
. chopped pi stach io n u ts re tu rn e d to oven till ,

c rock fi ll i t wi th al te rn a te layers O f peache s


, th e mer ingu e tak es on a d el ica te fawn color ;
a n d sugar le t m ace ra te for 2 4 h ou rs then turn when servi n g pipe the cen t re f ancifully wi th
al l carefully i n to preservin g k e t tl e wi th so m
, , ,

e of whippe d cream .

the k ernel s blanche d and s k in ned brin g rapi d l y ,


PEA C H F R I T T E R S — F reeston e peaches peel ed
t o th e boil then si mmer till th e frui t i s ten d e r
, a n d halve d coa te d wi th fryi n g bat te r pl unge d
, ,

a n d th e syrup clear t ake up gen tl y an d fi l l i n


, in to h o t l ard f rie d a gol den b rown taken up
, ,

to frui t j ars wi thou t breaking the h alves allo w , a n d drained ; serve d wi th wine sauce .

th e syrup t o becom e col d then pou r Over the


PEA C H D U MPL I N G S — L arge peaches peele d
,

peaches scre w on the covers use as wan te d


, , .

PEA C H C OB B LE R — Shallow bu t tered bak in g


a n d s ton e d enclose d wi th sh or t paste s teame d
, ,

pan l ine d wi th a good sh or t pas te h al ves o f till d one ; served wi th an y pu d ding sauce .

peeled peach es fi ll e d in to i t covered wi th


.
, PEA C H PIE — Peaches peeled a n d cu t in slices ,

powde re d sugar u ppe r c rus t Of shor t pas te


,
a n d m ade up same as apple pi e .

pl aced on a n d pinche d d own a t e d ges egg , PE A C H T R IFL E —A sh ee t Of sponge cak e moi s t


washed a n d bake d i n a me d iu m oven f o r h al f ene d wi th sherry win e thi s sprea d wi th a purée ,

an h our ; served cu t i n squares d us te d w i th o f peaches the peaches w i th wh ippe d cream


, ,

pow d ered sugar and a small pi tche r Of c ream c u t or d ers i n a d i amon d shape a n d serve wi th ,

served separa tel y .


whi ppe d c ream pipe d aroun d the edges
P E A C H S H O R T CA KE — R ipe freestone peaches
.

PEA C H I CE — Pu r ee o f peaches fl avo re d wi th


peeled and ch opped m i xe d wi th sugar to tas te , ,
r a t a fi a m i xed wi th wate r a n d sugar t o tas te ,
S hor tcake ba k ed spli t the peaches then sprea d
f rozen ; served i n ice cup s
, ,

be twee n a n d on top the top l ayer then pipe d


.

I C ED PE AC HE S —Large f rees tone peaches pee l ed


,

wi th whi pped c ream ; serve d cu t i n squares ,


,

Wi th or wi thou t a Separate pi tcher of cream .


h alved ; s ton e removed ; wh ere the s ton e was ,

P E A C H C HA R L OTT E —B u t tere d baking p an fi ll ed wi th th e peach ice above ; pl ace the halves


,

sl ices O f an evenl y t ri mm ed s tal e l oaf d i ppe d i n toge the r then coa t th e ou tside o f the peach
,

'

mel te d b u t ter and ar ranged aroun d the s ides wi th more of th e ice pl ace i n refrigerating box ,

and bo t t o m of th e pan l eav in g n o c rack s peach til l fi rm then serve wi th whipped cream
,
,

m armal ade th en pu t i n h alf an inch thick c o v piped around th e base .

P E AN U T — On e of the mos t nu t ri tive of foods i s


,

ere d wi th more sl ices O f the b read b rushed , ,

wi th bea ten egg then w e l l sprin k le d wi th gran


,
t h e pean u t kernel as they con tain , Of

u l a t e d sugar ba k ed brown and gla zy ; serve d


,
wa ter , O f ash of pro tein , of ,

wi th or wi thou t sauce .
fibe r I 4 2 7 % Of n i t rogen f ree ex trac t
,
. of ,

PE A C H C R O U T O N S W I T H G L A Z E D fat , O f n i trogen I n d esc rib ing the .

F R U I T S — Sponge cakes bake d i n a l on g roun d u ses o f peanu ts i t i s scarcel y n ecessary to mo re


mol d ; when o n e d a y Ol d cu t i n to sl ices inch ,
than refe r to tha t use which fu l ly th ree four ths -

an d a h al f thick Co m pd t e of peaches t he .
,
of the American raise d c rop i s d evo te d T he .

syrup flavored wi th K i r s c h e n w a s s e r af ter ,


n u t i s sor ted i n th e f ac tory in t o fou r grad es ,

peache s are don e remove d an d in to the syrup , ,


th e fi rs t secon d a n d th i rd being sold to v en d ors
,

i s pu t pieces of an gel ica wi th other f rui ts “ o f th e roas ted pean u t ei ther di rec tly or th rough ,

glaces "
To serve : d i p the sl ice O f cake i n
.
j obb in g houses T h e fou r th grade af te r pass
.
,

the syrup on i t place the frui t then decorate


, ,
ing th rough a shell er i s sol d t o c onfec tion ers , ,

“ "

wi th th e frui ts glace s fi n i sh wi th a l i t tl e Of "
to be used i n the ma k ing o f burn t a l mon d s ,

the syrup pou re d ove r .


peanu t candy and cheaper grades of chocol ates .

PEA C H C H AR T R E U SE O rn amen tal j e l l y T h e ex ten t O f th e use O f the pe a nu ts by the



mo l d s fan cy sl ices O f frui ts gl aces peach
,
American peopl e will be m ore full y apprecia te d
bu t ter s ti ff ened wi th gel atin e L i ne the m ol d s .
when i t is rem embered tha t they use
wi th a thi n l ayer o f s ti ff M a d ei ra wi n e j ell y ,
bushe l s of nu ts yearl y ( a t a cos t to the con
d i p each sl ice of fru i t i n som e m ore O f i t a n d sum ers o f which d o n o t form a
d ecora te th e sides o f the m ol d i n a p re t ty d e p ar t of the regular ar tic l es Of food bu t are ,

sign then pou r i n som e m ore j ell y to se t th e eaten a t Od d t i mes .

P E A R — A del icious f rui t p roduced a t i ts bes t i n


,

desi gn then fi l l up wi th t he s ti ff en e d peach


,
,

bu t te r pu t away i n ice box to se t fl r m tu rn


, ,
C ali f orn i a T h e B ar t l e t t is th e bes t for serv
.

ou t on a fancy glass d i sh pi pe a fancy bor d e r ,


ing plain o r i n the f rui t s tan d s May be u se d in .

al m ost all th e ways j us t prev ious l y desc ribed


'

wi th wh ipped c ream s prin kle i t wi th very ,

fi nel y ch o ppe d pi s tach io n u ts and se rve .


for peaches .

P E A C H T AR T LE T T E S — F ancy pa t ty pan s PRIC KLY PE AR —T h e fru i t of a cac tus n ame d


l in ed wi th pu ff pas te h alves o f p rese rved , Opun tia i s pee l ed sl iced mois tene d wi th
, , ,
T H E C ULI NA RY H ANDB O O K . 12 9

brandy and the j uice o f an o range then ser v e d


'

, PEPPE R —Bl ack Wh i te and M ignone t te—the ,

wi th powdered suga r . berry Of the pepper v in e T h e B lack i s the .

PEA S —G arden peas S hell ed and washed the ,


unri pe be rry d ried ; M ignon e t te i s the bl ac k
toppin gs re moved f ro m th e wa te r pu t to boi l ,
c rushed ( n o t ground ) use d i n season ing f oo d s
i n boil ing wa te r wi th sal t l i t tle suga r and a ,
or s toc k s e tc tha t will be s traine d ; Wh i te i s
, .
,

smal l bunch of green m in t boi l rapi d ly wi thou t the k ernel of th e ripe berry .

R ED PEPPE R —i s the groun d seed s a n d po d s o f


,

a cover til l tender abou t ten to fi f teen m in u tes , .

take u p a n d d rain re m ove the min t ; ser ve plain ,


the smal l capsic um ; also called cayenn e peppe r .

as a vege tabl e o r ga rn ish or m ix wi th cream or , P E PPE R M IN T — Na me of a combin a tion pl an t


g ravy or b u t ter sauce T h e d rie d green peas
,
. of peppe r and min t one of th e min t species ; a ,

o f com merce m ay a f ter soaking i n col d wate r , volatil e Oi l i s ex trac te d f rom i t wh ich is use d
over n igh t be t rea ted th e same as fresh garden
,
f o r m edicin al purposes also as a fl avoring to ,

peas . man y th ings i n th e con f ec tion ers trade ’


.

GRE EN PEA SO U P—Gar d en peas shelle d and PEPPE R P OT — N ame of the n at ional soup s te w
washe d boiled till ten d er in goo d ch ic k en b ro th O f the Wes t I n d i e s ; c o m p o s e d of p ieces o f bee f ,
, ,

season ed to tas te then i s a d d ed some shre d d e d ,


veal ham chicken game all sorts of v e g e
, , , ,

chervil a n d l e t tuce .
tables chopped green marj oram savory basil
, , , ,

parsl ey s mal l pota toes an d d umpl i ngs fi n ishe d


G REE N P E A S OU P — Peas shelled a n d washe d ,
, ,

an d season e d wi th sauce c assaree p a n d ch il i


boiled i n whi te s toc k t ill ten d er sl igh tl y thic k ,
pepper
en e d wi th roux th en rubbe d through a tami s .

PE R C H —A del icate dai n ty flavo re d s mall fi sh


, ,

season e d ; served wi th c r o fito n s To the pu rée


may al so be a d ded fi nel y c u t chervil ch ives , ,
abun d an t all sum m e r in our f resh wa te r la k es ,

spring onion s a sparag u s poi n ts s tri ngl ess bean s


, ,
rive rs a n d s treams As th e ski n i s hard they .

al so m ay be mi xed i n for a c h ange t wo ,


shoul d be s k in ne d by fi rs t runn in g a sharp
or three c ans of mac edoines o r a j uli enn e o f k n i f e d o wn ei the r si d e o f the back fi n s l ifting ,

vege tables royal cus tard s rice g rain s the fi n ou t then wi th a sh arp j er k pull Off th e
,

fl a ge o l e t bean s e tc .
skin from th e si d es e mp ty the en trail s cu t O ff , ,

the o ther fi ns season wi th sal t a n d pepper roll


PU R E E O F PEAS —D rie d green peas soaked , ,

i n flour then i n beaten eggs then brea d


over n igh t pu t to boil i n whi te s toc k wi t h a ham , ,
,
c ru mbs fry a gol d e n b ro wn ; se rve wi th l e mon
k nuckle min t on i on carro t spring on ion s a n d
, ,
, ,
, ,
g a rn ish wi th parsl ey and you have a d ish ac
ch ives ; when ten d er re move the ham rub the , ,
,

c e p ta b l e t o O r af ter p r e p a r i n g s e a s o n
res t th rough a tamis seaso n to taste b rin g t o , , ,
, ,
rol l i n flour broil and baste till don e ; serve
the boi l agai n and sl igh tl y th ic k en wi th roux ,
,
garn i shed wi th ch ip pota toes and a l i t tle m ét i t r e ‘

to avoid se t tl ing ; cu t the h am i n s mal l dice a n d


d ho te l bu t te r prepare a n d boil i n sal te d

a d d to the soup ; serve wi th c r o flto n s


,
.

wate r wi th a bunch Of parsley take u p a n d


.

PU R E E O F PE AS — D rie d g reen peas pu t to


.
,

d rain ; serve wi th Allemande parsl e y bu t ter or ,

boil wi th sal t pork and and a bunch of po t anchovy c rea m sauce prepare season wi th , ,

herb s i n veal bro th boil til l sof t a n d por k i s , sal t and pepper r o l l i n flour sau té i n bu t ter ; , ,

d on e then re move po rk th icke n a l i t tl e wi th


, , serve wi th a s t ri p Of bac on and a l i t t l e anch ovy
roux to preven t s e t t l in g then rub th rough ,
bu t ter sprea d on i t p repare season rol l in , ,

tamis b rin g to boil again season to tas te cu t


, , , flour bak e wi th a l i t tle bacon f a t till don e and
,

the pork i n d ice add to the soup ; serve wi th , del ica te brown i n color ; se rve wi th Alle man d e
c r o fi to n s .
sauce .

S PL I T PE A S O UP— Spl i t peas soaked over PE R I G UE UX — Name given to a sauce mad e by


n igh t pu t to boi l i n wh i te s tock wi th on ion


, , fryin g a d el ica te b ro wn toge the r s ome m ince d
cel ery carro t a n d sal t pork ; when d on e th icken
, , shallo ts on ion an d ham then mois ten wi th a
, ,

ligh tl y wi th rou x to p reven t se t tling remove , gl ass o f w h i t e win e a n d al l o w to si mmer til l


'

th e pork rub the res t th rough a t a m is bring to


, , hal f re d uced then a d d an equal q uan ti ty of
,

boil again season to tas te add the pork cu t i n


, , b ro wn roux an d good mea t gravy al so so me ,

small d ice ; s erve wi th c r o fito n s . t ru ffle peel in gs an d a piece of mea t gl aze si m ,

PE AS PUD D ING — Ah E ngl i sh di sh used wi th me r t h e whole for t en minu tes then p ass . ,

boil ed sal t por k sal t beef e tc Sp l i t peas , , .


th rough th e ch in a cap a d d plen ty Of th i nly ,

soak ed over n igh t th en pu t in t o a cl oth allow ,


sl ice d tru ffles and se t i n bai n marie for use -
.

ing room to swell pu t to boil i n col d wa ter wi th , P E R S I M M ON — Nam e O f a frui t resembl ing i n
sal t and a smal l piece Of com mon washing appearance a smoo th tomato i n col or be tween ,

s o da boi l ed till sof t taken up the clo th hung


, , , the red and yell o w sor ts ; best when h aving
to a ll ow a l l wa ter t o d rain ou t then un ti ed , ,
caugh t th e frost ; has a flavor f rom i ts pulpy i n
turned on to a dish and served wi th the a c c o m t e r i o r l i k e a m ix ture of a rough banan a and
pany ing mea t . tamari nds ; i ts taste mus t b e cu l ti v a ted to be
1 30 T H E C U LI N ARY HAN D B O OK .

l i k ed as a f rui t I t i s p repare d i n th e S ou th e rn
. ful s of ground b l ack peppe r enough cide r vine ,

s tates as a beer c ide r a n d w in e Al so i ts pul p , . gar to well cover .

i s rubbed th rough a si eve m i xed w i th corn , P I C KL E S — When making an y pic k les from the
m eal in s tead Of water a n d m ad e i n to a swee t receip ts given un d er thei r respec tive head ings ,

corn bread .
al ways use th e bes t ci d er vin egar scald to boi l
PH E A S A N T—A fin e gam e b i rd ; sh ould be hung
,

i ng poin t bu t do n ot l e t i t boil prepare al ways ,

by th e tai l for a t l eas t a week or til l i ts gam y i n ei th e r gran i te o r porcelain l ined k e t tles u se ,

flavor i s pron ounced then pl uc k d raw s i n ge , , ,


. woo d e n spoon s or pad d les A piece of horse .

wipe a n d t russ pl unge h i m i n to boi lin g sal te d


, ra d ish roo t i n the j ars will p rev en t the vinegar
wate r wi t h an on ion a n d som e cele ry s talks ; from becom ing moldy They shoul d al ways be .

when h e i s ten d er take ou t ; se rv e i n po r ti o n s k ep t i n s ton e o r glass and in a dry d ark place , .

wi th a goo d combin e d c ele r y pu rée sauce con PI CKLE — Aromatic sal t p ic k l e ( G e rman ) —Ta k e
tain in g an e q n a l quan ti ty of rich Oys ter sauce .
seven and hal f gall on s O f wa te r on e poun d of
B R OI LE D PH EASA N T —T ak e th e ve ry youn g
,

I n d ian can e sugar hal f p o u n d of pul veri zed ,

bi r d s an d a f ter hangi n g pluck sin ge spli t


, , , , clean ed sal tpe t re th ree ounces O f cori ander ,
'

do wn th e back re move bac k a n d breas t bon es ;


, see d s h al f a d ozen b ay l eaves three cloves of
, ,

garl ic B oi l all for fi ve m inu tes , l e t i t cool


"

season wi th sal t an d peppe r b rush well wi th , .


,

ol ive O il pl ac e i n a wi re h inged b roil er b roi l


, , s trai n in to brin e tub th rough a fi n e s t raine r ,

ove r a cleared space O f the cha rcoal til l tender ; th row a way the re f use T h i s brin e will keep .

serve wi th a b rown game sauce al l S U MM E R an d can be u se d for every k ind


,

o f mea t Al l mea t from thi s pic k l e wil l have a


R O AST P H E A S AN T I
H un g bi rd s plucked ,
.

singed d r a wn wiped t russe d b reas ts l ar d ed


, ,
fi n e red col or and a pleasan t tas te .

P I C KL E P U MP S — T he re i s perhaps n o p rocess
, , ,

bacon tie d over th e l arde d breasts roaste d a n d ,

bas ted till d on e ; serve d i n po r tion s wi th b read so im por tan t i n th e curin g Of mea t as pumping .

sauce . M ea t i s l iable t o very q uick d ecomposi ti on u h


l ess i t i s i m me d ia tel y brough t i n con tac t wi th a
B R AI SE D PH E ASA N T — H u n g bi r d s plucke d ,
preserva tive O f som e kind such as sal t borax
singe d d rawn wi pe d s tu ff e d wi th a Fin ancie re
, , ,
, , ,

r a g o flt mix e d wi th gra ted s tal e bread and a l i t tle


e tc I n ord in ary cou rse if these p reservatives
.

were l aid on th e su rface of the mea t th ey


grate d lem on rin d t russe d brai sed wi th bacon , , ,
,

swee t herb s an d a l i t tle gam e stock ; when done would m ingl e wi th th e m ea t j uices d i sso l ve ,
,

ta k en u p th e brai se s train ed an d s k i m me d an d percolate slowl y th rough th e tissues ; bu t


, ,

then pou red t o a ga me sauce reduced fi n i sh e d th i s process i s sl ow and unde r man y condi tion s
, ,
Of temperature d an gerous Hence th e n e c e s
wi th a gl ass Of por t win e ; served i n por tion s , .

s i t y O f an appl iance wh ich brings the preserva


wi th some o f the r a g o fit un d e r th e sauce over , .

M ay al so be b raise d w i thou t bei n g s tu ff e d atives a t once i n to ope ra tion Th e sal t brine .

and served w i th a pu rée S oubise also .


or pic k l e i s fi l tered so tha t i t run s cl ear an d i s ,

brai sed wi th c abbage l e t tuces and pork sau s t h en inj ec ted by th e pickle pum p in to the mea t
ages ; served garn i shed wi th the sausage s a n d to be c ure d .

a game sauce pou red o v er al so b raised . . .


,
PI C KL I N G B E E F AND H AM S —T O 1 0 0 pounds
served garn i shed wi th glaze d swee tb reads and o f beef or hams use 7 poun d s O f roc k sal t , 5 ,
,

a Fin anciere r ag o fi t .
pound s Of b rown sugar 2 ounces O f sal tpe tre , ,

PH E AS ANT M AY B E U S ED T O P R OD UC E h al f an ounce Of s a l a r a t u s m ix toge ther and ,

ALM O S T A L L T H E E N T R E E S G IVEN boil i n four gall on s O f w ate r sk i m whil e boi l ,

WI T H PA R T R I D G E , AND N A M ED A C in g an d pou r on to the mea t hot For h am s to .

C OR D I N G L Y .
cure well they should remai n i n th e p ic k le fo r
,

si x weeks
PI C AL L I L I —Cu t the f ol lowing veg e tab l es ra the r
.

fi n e crush th e garlic then add pack al l i n to


,
P I G P R OD U C T S —U nder the n ame o f fresh
, ,

s ton e crock s an d cover w i th sl igh tl y sal ted pork i s comp rise d generall y al l the lean and
wa te r a n d s tan d i n a cool pl ac e for on e day
,
fresh par t s O f th e pig d es tin ed to be roas ted or
a n d n igh t th en d rai n on sieve an d press wi th
,
broil e d par ticularly th e cu tl e ts the l oin and
, ,

c l o th s til l d ry ; then pl ace b ack i n to th e c roc k s sm al l fi ll e t T h e l oin i s the fl eshy par t be tween
.

cover wi th the boil ing v in ega r an d spices h er th e cu tl e ts a n d the ham ; i t furn i she s an exce l .

m e t i c a l l y sea l on th e c roc k c ove rs while con len t roas t T h e “ fil e t m ignon as th e F rench


.
"

ten ts are a t boil i n g h ea t — 1 0 0 small cucu mbers ,


cal l i t i s th e l on g a n d narrow fl eshy par t un d e r
,

3 smal l wh i te cabbages 1 8 sm all hea d s of cel ,


th e kidn ey a l on g th e dorsal spin e k nown to u s
e ry 6 me d iu m c a u l i flo w e r s 6 qua r ts O f s t ri n g
, ,
as th e por k ten d erl oin I t i s the mos t del ica te .

l ess bean s 9 each Of me d iu m si zed g reen an d


,
morsel O f pork and weigh s f rom h alf to a pound
red peppers 4 clove s Of g arl ic 6 o zs O f mus
,
i n weigh t .

H AM S —Nearly al ways en ti re hams are sal te d


.
,

tar d see d 2 l evel teaspoon ful s each Of groun d


,

al l s pice mace an d gi n ger 2 heapin g teaspoon


, , ( cure d ) ; someti mes they are used for cookin g
1 3
2 T H E C U LI N ARY H ANDB O O K .

N OT P R E S E R VE an d mus t n o t b e used for i m med iate con tac t w i th the sa l t are i mpreg
,

del ica te m ea ts . n a te d too s t ron gly .

Pu t in to a boiler a n d l e t boi l for ten min u tes Th i s di ff erence i n resul t i s easil y expl ain e d
6 gallon s O f water 2 1 poun d s of sal t 6 poun d s th rough th e ac tion of the s al t I n bo th me tho d s
, , .

O f sugar 2 poun d s of sal tpe tre s ti r wel l d urin g


,
thi s con d i m en t c lears ou t the aqueous por tion s
,

cook i n g then em p ty ou t th e brin e a n d all tha t


,
of the blood i n the t issues a n d thus preserves
remai n s un d i sso l ved allo w to becom e qui te the m ea t from tain t W i th d r y sal ting i t i s
, .

c old then a d d a q uar ter O f a pound of m ixed


,
pu re sal t which sa turates th e mea ts I n the .

wh ol e spices ; rub th e m ea t wi th powd ered we t p rocess th e brin e wh ich ac ts l i k e sal t b e , ,

sal tpe tre an d sal t place i n the b ri ne tub pou r ing a solu tion of i t i mpregn a tes i n a m uch l ess
, , ,

ove r th e brin e Th i s brine i s excellen t a n d . d eg ree th e flesh as i t i s so much wea k er be in g ,

can be u se d f o r all kin d s of mea t a n d n o tabl y i n so l u tion I f the we t p roc ess i s used n o th , .
,

f o r mea t where special brines are no t ind ica ted ing mus t be d on e un ti l afte r th e m ea ts a re .

B oil as i n the p receding 5 gallon s Of wa ter 8 th oroughl y ch ille d wh ich i s n o t 0 f t e n comple te , , \

poun d s Of wh i te sal t 2 poun d s of g ray sal t 2 % ( accor d in g t o tempera ture ) be fore t welve t o
, ,

poun d s of sugar poun d s O f sal tpe tre ; allow, eigh teen h ou rs I f th i s p recau tion i s n eglec ted .
,

to cool fl avor wi th ,
pound of whol e spices and th e wa rm mea ts wer e h eaped in to a b ri ne .

B oil an d coo l as above 1 0 gall on s Of wa ter tub n o t on ly would they become un shapely bu t , , ,

5 0 poun d s of wh i te sal t 4 poun d s Of gray s al t they woul d become h o t an d fermen t t he i nevi


, , ,

poun d s of sal tpe tre 5 pounds Of sugar tabl e conse q uence Of wh ich would be thei r co r
, ,

fl avor wi th poun d o f spices rup ti on and tha t Of the b rin e . .

I n some I tal ian provinces an excellen t brin e Wi th th e d ry process the mea ts can be sal te d
i s p repare d compose d of I X gallon s eac h o f
, i m me d ia tely af te r sl augh ter wh ich i s f avor ,

B arol a wine an d wa te r 8 poun d s O f whi te sal t abl e to th e succ ess Of the Opera tion
, I n fac t , .
,

ya pound o f gray sal t poun d o f sal tpe tre i t i s kn own by th e reason of i ts chemica l com
, ,

flavored wi th thy me bay l eaves basil savory posi tion mea t ten ds t o d ec omposi tion as soon
, , , , ,

and j un iper . as the an i mal ceases to l ive an d i t i s therefore ,

I n Westphal i a the hams are pickle d wi th a apparen t tha t the l ess advanced i s th e tai n ti ng ,

brine ma d e w i th gall on s O f water 8 poun d s the greater i s the success O f the sal ti ng
, , .

O f sal t 2 poun d s of sugar


,
poun d of sal t P I C KLI N G O F R OL LED H AM S — Choose h am s,

pe t re 2 ounces of spices tied i n a mu sl in bag


, th a t a re n o t v ery fa t bon e and t ri m the m .
, ,

Fo r B ayon n e hams the fol lowin g brin e i s pick l e i n brin e fo r t wo wee k s wash i n fresh
,
,

u se d 1 % gall on s each of goo d red wine and


, water for an hour or so brush th e h am s bea t , ,

col d wa te r 8 poun d s of wh i te sal t 2 poun d s Of


, wi th a m al le t so as t o m ake them roun d a n d ,

g ray sal t 2 ounces o f sal tpe tre and a fl avoring


, uni f orm t i e w i th s tring d r y th em i n th e ai r
, , , ,

O f sage rosemary and lave n d e r


, then smoke them When these h ams are d r y .
.

T here a re t wo pri ncipal p rocesses f o r sal ting they can be se rved raw bu t u sually they are ,

mea ts : the we t process a n d t he d ry B oth served cooke d . .

h av e thei r meri ts a n d thei r combin e d use of ; FO R E H AM S O R C AL I FO R N I A S H O ULD E R S


,

f ers a d van tages T H E W E T PR O C E S S con . —T ri m th e should ers cu t them round pu t , ,

sist s i n s teeping mea ts i n a b rin e fo r some ti me th rough the d r y process ( as above ) for th ree ,

accord in g to the th ic k n ess O f th e pi eces O f d ays th en th rough th e we t p rocess fo r t en ,

mea ts ; i t i s carri e d ou t by the big pac k i n g com d ays ta k e ou t O f th e b rin e wash sc rub d r y, , , , ,

p a n i e s where t h e syste m O f curin g h as reached


, smok e and fi n i sh l i k e o r d in ary h am s , .

a mos t per f ec t condi ti on T H E D RY P R O P I C KL I N G O F O X T ON G U E S —Cu t away the .

C ES S : place the m ea ts on t h e sal tin g table d ea d flesh the gri stle an d the fa t which i s ,
, ,

pow d e r the m wi th fin e sal tpe tre rub wel l i n to found a t the roo t Mak e on each side o f t h e , .

th e meat r ub a f terwar d s wi th g r a y sa l t ( sea


,
roo t sl igh t inc i sion s to fac i l i ta te th e sal ti n g .

sal t ) Arran ge the m on e beside the o th er in


.
Wash th e to n gues i n runn i ng water brush in g ,

such a way tha t the y wi ll n o t ge t ou t Of sh ape th e m w ell d ry w i th a cl o th rub th em wi th ,


, ,
.

then cover evenl y wi th whi te sal t ; th i s O pera sal tpe t re th en wi th a m ix ture Of 9 pa r ts sa l t ,

tion i s ren ewed every t wo or th ree d ays un til and 1 par t sugar an d pu t them i n a good b rin e ,

the sal t h as been well soa k e d in to th e i nsi d e Of for 1 2 d a y s O x tongues l ike th ose of pigs .
, ,

the flesh a resul t wh ich i s Ob tain ed in from on e


,
ca l ves a n d sheep have on th ei r th ick si d e a )
,

to f ou r wee k s accor d ing to the si ze o f the , sl i m y l iq ui d wh ich easi ly tain t s t h e bri n e , .

p ieces T hi s p r ocess i s gen era l l y carrie d on


.
_ T hi s i s why i t i s i mpor tan t to wel l wash a n d
by sal t meat expor ters d ry the m be f ore pu t ting i n to th e b rine
.
.

B y the we t process th e n ecessary sal t flavor For th e sam e reason tongues should al way s be
i s ob tain e d inasmuch a s they are i m merse d i n
, pic k l ed al on e i n a special brin e tub i n whic h
brin e m ore or l ess sal te d Wi th the d r y pro onl y th e necessary quan ti ty of brin e should be
.

cess on the con trary the mea t s comin g i n to


, pu t , .
T H E CUL I NAR Y H AN DB O O K
' '

. I 33

PI GS H E A D ST U F FE D —More ten called Of as a bove generally garn ished wi th sau te ed


,

B oars Head ( glaze d ) S elec t a pe rfec t hea d bu t ton m u shroo m s .

wi th good ears ; the head mus t be cu t O E full , PI GE ON C R O U STAD E —Young bi rds prepared
tha t i s wi th t wo o r th ree j oi n t s of the nec k bon e a n d trussed arrange d i n a sau toi r wi th sl ice s
,

l ef t on ; carefull y bon e i t ; the head i s then well of bacon moi s tened wi t h ch ic k en b ro th s te we d


, ,

washe d in col d wa ter to re move al l bl oo d and , til l tender taken up a n d pl aced i n a toas te d
,

pu t in to a spice d pickle fo r si x days ; i t i s then f ancy brea d c r o fls ta d e ; served wi th fin a n c i er e


wel l washed and s t u E e d tigh tl y wi th pork sau garn i sh pou re d around .

sage meat a piece of rin d being s ti tche d on


,
C UR R IED PIG EON S S mal l y oung birds on e -
,

b a c k O f head to keep the s tu ffi ng in The hea d .


to the por tion prepare d a n d trusse d placed i n
, ,

i s then p l aced on a th i n board and ano ther oven wi th bacon fa t an d quickl y brown e d a n d
piece placed alongside each cheek and tie d in basted taken up in to a curry sauce ma d e o f
,

posi ti on to keep head i n shape ; th e whole i s chicken and game s toc k to which i s ad d ed a ,

n o w tie d up in a clo th a n d coo k ed ge n tl y so a s , ,


gra te d green apple si m mere d til l ten d er ; ,

n o t to break the ears bu t l on g en ough to cook ,


served garn ished wi th ti mbales of rice or ri s
th oroughly ; all ow t o cool ta k i ng care to place ,
so to.

i n posi tion so tha t i t co ol s t o a good shape wi th


,
C U R R IED PI GE ON S W I T H R I C E — Sp l i t th e
ears e rec t ; when cool i nser t glass eyes a n d i f , ,
bi rd s i n halves take ou t the breas t bon e sea , ,
avail ab l e a pai r of tusks then gl a ze and d ec
, ,
son wi th sal t and peppe r rol l the m i n cur ry ,
o ra te .

pow d e r and then i n flou r m i nce some onion s


PI G E ON S —The young ones ca l led s q uabs are
,

,
and a c l o v e Of g a r l ic fry them wi th ou t much ,

bes t spl i t d o wn the b ac k b reas tbone removed , ,


col o r i n oi l Of bu t ter take up the on i on s ; then ,

t russe d seasoned wi th sal t and peppe r rol le d


, ,
fry the pigeon s moi s ten wi th s tock re turn the , ,

i n mel ted bu t ter broi le d ; served on toas t


'
,
on ion s a d d a grated sour appl e al so a spoon fu l
, ,

wi th mai t r e d ho tel o r piquan te sauces .


each of tamarin d s and Benga l chu tn ey wi th a
RO AST P IGE ON Young bi rds pl ucked singe d -
, . l i t tl e preserve d ginger si mme r sl owl y till d on e , ,

d rawn wipe d trussed wi th bacon o ver the


, , take u p the bi r d s sk i m OE an y grease f rom th e ,

b reas t roasted ; served wi th thei r o wn gravy


, , cu rry strain i t over the birds ; ma k e a bor d er of
,

garn ish wi th c ress .


d ry boiled rice around the serv in g d i sh p l a Ce
B R E ASTS OF PI GE ON — B reas ts of young bi rds
,

, t wo halves o f bir d s i n the cen t re w i t h som e Of


seasoned b readed and broile d or fried ; or
, , , the sauce pou re d over them .

coate d wi th sauce then brea d ed a n d frie d ; S T UFFED PI GE ON WI T H P OTAT O E S — D raw


or the breasts sau te ed then b rea d e d a n d f rie d ; the bi r d as for roas t take ou t the b reas t bon e , ,

served wi th an y garn ish appropriate to d ar k s t u E wi th a m ix tu re of b rea d c rumbs parsley ,


,

fleshe d bi rds or game .


i ts own l iver a n d hear t mi nce d wi th a l i t tl e
STE WED P I G E ON W I T H M U S H R O OM S bacon g rate d l e mon r in d sal t and peppe r Ar
, ,
.

S epara ted in to fou r j oin ts sau te ed wi th b u t te r , , range the m i n a sau toi r cover wi th s tock and ,

taken u p in to a sau toi r to which i s a d de d l i t tl e si m mer slo wly till ten d e r M ake a mou n d o f .

lean ham bu t ton m ush rooms sau te ed bunch o f


, , m ashed potatoes on the serving d i sh place a ,

po t herbs season in g l i t tle red win e and s tock


, , , pigeon on top pou r over s ome Of the g ravy ,

the whole sim mere d til l ten d er ; served wi th the made from the s tock the bi rds were si m mered
mush roo ms as a border . in
P I GE ON PIE— In t o a deep p ie di sh place on the STU FFED PIGE ON WIT H V E G ETABL E S
bot tom some thi n sl ices of bee f then h a l ves Of ,
Prepare the bir d s and cook as i n the p rece d ing
young pigeon s sl ices of b acon some forcemea t
, ,
reci pe ; when ten d e r take up the bi rds then , ,

bal l s mush room s and yolk s O f h ard boile d


, ,
boi l some j ul ienn e cu t vege tables in the stock
eggs li t t l e choppe d pars l ey m ois ten wi th sea
, ,
th e bi r d s were si mmered i n season pl ace the , ,

s o n e d grav y cover wi th a shor t paste b rush


, ,
b i r d on a sl ice o f toast pou r the gravy o ve r i t , ,

the top wi th egg wash and b ake gen t l y til l ,


and garn ish wi th the d rained vegetables .

d one abou t an hour and a hal f


, .
L A R DE D PIG E ON S G ARNI S H E D —L ard the ,

POTT E D PIGE ON Young bi rds p l ucke d singe d-


, ,
breas t of the bi rds wi th bacon ar range them ,

d ra w n wipe d s t u E e d wi th a m i x ture of gra te d


, ,
i n a sau toi r moisten w i th chicken s tock a n d
,

brea d chopped parsl ey ch oppe d sue t gra ted


, , ,
si m me r till tende r take up re d uce t h e gravy to , ,

hard boi le d egg yolks sal t pepper a n d n u tmeg , , , ,


a gla ze rol l the bi r d s in i t a n d se rve eac h on e
, ,

trusse d pl ace d in to a crock wi th cele ry thy me


, , ,
on a fan cy c r o fis ta d e pou r ove r a l i t tl e fin an ,

parsley an on i on s tuc k wi th cloves gl a ss O f


, ,
c i er e sauce an d garn ish th e base wi th a r a go fit
,

M ad ei ra and a l i t tl e s tock cover pl a ce in oven , , ,


of tru ffles mush rooms cocks Combs and que
, ,

an d co ok gen tly til l ten d er ; served wi th the n ell es of ch ick en .

s trained gravy garn ished wi th cress an d l emon


, .
S ALM I S O F PI G E ON S —Take col d c o ok e d b i rd s ' t
,

COM P OT E OF P I G E ON — Prac tically the sam e spl i t in h a l v e s arrange i n a sau toi r mo i s te n , ,


134 T H E C U LINARY H AN DB O O K .

wi th a game sauce a d d a glas s of sh e rry win e ,


garn ish wi th a c rou ton spread wi th curran t ,

serve the bi r d s on a fan cy c r o fi to n pou r ove r j ell y , .

a l i t tle o f the sauce a n d garn ish wi th ston e d R OA ST PL OVER —Wi pe the bi rds bu t d o n o t
O l i ves .
dra w them sprea d a th i n piece o f f a t bacon ,

B R AISED PIG E ON WITH FLAG E O LE T S over the b reas t roas t quickl y t ill don e ; serve ,


d on a fancy c r o fis ta d e wi th a l i t tle gam e sauce
P repare a n d s t u E th e bi rd s as f o r S t u E e

pigeon s wi th po ta toes brai se th em sl owl y ti ll pou re d ove r


,
" .

tende r take u p add a good b rown sauce to the B R EAS T O F PLOVE R EN SALM I —Wipe bu t
, , ,

con ten ts of th e b rasier s reduce then s trai n i t d o n ot d ra w the bi r d s roas t ta k e OE the b reasts
, , , ,

ove r th e pigeon s ; serve the bird on toas t wi th a and si m mer t h em i n a gam e sauce con tain in g
spoonful of the sauce pou re d over ; garn i sh wi th mince d m u sh room s ta k e the trail Of th e bi r d s , ,

some fla ge o l e ts tha t have been sau t eed in bu t te r sprea d i t on fancy c r o fi to n s ; serv e the breasts .


FR I C ASSE E O F PIG E ON S D raw t h e bi rds as on a D u chesse potato pou r the sauce aroun d , ,

a n d garn i s h wi th the c r o fi to n s
for roasting take ou t the breas t bon e s tu E th e
, ,
.

aper tu re wi th a vea l forcem ea t tie up blan ch B R EAS T S O F PL OVE R WI T H SWEE T


— , , ,

ar range i n a sau toi r cover wi th a Velou té B R E AD S ,


Roas t th e bi rd s t hen remove the ,

sauce pu t on the cove r a n d si m me r slowl y t ill


,
b reas ts and place the m i n a sau toi r wi th a l i t
ten d e r ; serve wi th g reen peas an d a fancy tle d emi gl aze and som e s tone d ol ives Take
,
-
.

c r o fit o n a t each en d of the d ish


smal l swee tbrea d s lard a n d b raise them ; serve
.

B RA I SED P IGE ON G A R N I S H ED —B raise the


on e o f each wi th th e sauce pou red over them .

T AI L — N am e O f on e o f ou r com mon wil d


,

bi r d s till tender spl i t them i n h alves arrange PI N


, ,
d uc k s is good s tu ffed and roas te d an d i n a
nea tl y on toas t pou r over some of th e s traine d
,
, ,

and sk i m med b raise garn i sh wi th s ton ed O l i ves sal m i .


, ,

bu t ton mush rooms sm all quen elles olive PI Q,


U ANT E Name of a sauce made wi th an ,

shape d pieces Of c arro t an d tu rni p tha t h ave equal number of choppe d shall ots a n d g reen
al l been si mmered i n ch icken or vea l s tock till gherkin s boiled t il l sh al lo ts are don e in cape r ,

v in egar then i s adde d some capers bay l e a f


don e .
, ,

and a fe w sprigs O f thy me boi l e d agai n till vi n


R OAS T PI G E ON WIT H T OM AT O E S —T ak e ,

egar i s reduced to on e third of i ts origin al vol


young bi rd s and s t u E the m wi th b readcrumb s
u m e ; rem ove the bay l eaf an d thym e a d d
season ed wi th sal t pepper bu t t e r m ince d ,
,

en ough good E spagnol e sauce an d a l i tt l e


, ,

parsl ey and on ion s parboiled in bro th a d d an


chicken bro th t il l o f the prope r sauce con sis t ,

egg to bin d cove r t he b reas ts wi th broad th in ,

,
enc y .

sl ice s of bacon roas t ta k e u p add to the pan


T A C H I O— Nam e of a pea green nu t Of a l
, , ,

they were roaste d in som e E spagn ol e sauce P I S


,
m on d flavor u se d by pas t ry coo k s a n d c o n f e c
an d a season in g of Worces tersh i re sa u ce boil ,
,

ti o n e r s
up a n d s train then add to i t a l i t t l e tarragon .


,

vinegar and chopped parsley ; se rve a spoon ful PLU M S As the re are so man y varie ti es g rown ,

ove r each bird and garn ish wi th sau t ee d toma a n d al l good f o r d esser t compo tes e tc I will , , .
,
,

toe s .
si mply here append a f e w way s of tak in g care
of the m when they are to be h ad v ery cheap
S A U T E O F PI G E ON —S pl i t the bi rd s down t h e
.

PL U M M AR M ALADE — Rub the pl um s bu t d o


bac k remov e the b reas t bon e fla t ten wi th the
, ,
n o t pare them cu t i n h alves a n d remove th e
cl eave r season wi th sal t a n d pepper roll i n
, ,
,

s tones weigh th e m and allo w h al f a pound o f


fl ou r f r y i n bu t ter : when d on e take up a n d a d d
, ,
, ,

sugar to each poun d o f f rui t P u t the f ru i t i n


flou r to th e bu t te r they were f rie d in m oi s ten
.

,
to a p reservin g k e t tl e add su ffi cien t wa te r t o
wi th s toc k boil u p a n d s trai n over th e bi r d s
, ,
,

cover th e bo t tom cover a n d b ri n g sl owl y to


a d d some choppe d es tragon l eaves an d a spoon
, ,

the boiling poin t t hen s ti r a n d m ash the f ru i t


ful Of tarragon vinegar si m mer a l i t t l e wh il e , ,
,

un til fi ne a d d th en the sugar an d some o f th e


th en serve .
,

k ern el s bl anched and m ince d boi l a n d s ti r


S Q U AB S S AU C E C R APAU D I N E —D raw th e
,

,
con ti nuall y f o r fi f teen m in u tes th en d ra w to ,

birds as for roas tin g th en wi t hou t d e tach in g one si d e and all o w to si m mer fo r t wen ty mi n
,

the par ts o u t th e breas t from th e ti p t o th e


,
u tes more ; pack away i n s ton e c r Oc k s ,

wing j oin t t u rn the t wo en d s so as t o l ook l ike PL U M B U T T E R — S elec t mellow frui t peel an d


,
,

a f rog fla tten wi th a bl ow o f the cleaver d i p


,
rem ove s ton es weigh the frui t then a n d to each ,
, ,
i n mel te d bu t ter then i n f resh grate d brea d ,
poun d al l o w th ree quar ters Of a poun d Of sugar ,
cru mbs b roil slowly t ill don e ; serve wi th sauce
,
pl ace the frui t i n preserv in g ke t tle h ea t slowl y ,
c rapau d ine .
t o boil i ng po in t the n m ash til l smoo th then , ,

B R OI LE D PL OVE R ON T O A S T — Wi pe th e rub th ro u gh a fi n e sieve in to anothe r ke t tle ;


bi r d s bu t d o n o t d raw them b roi l over a clear add the sugar a n d boil f o r fi f teen m in u tes st i r
, ,

fi re bas ting o f ten wi th bu t ter ; serve on toast


,
ri ng con ti nually ; pack away i n smal l j ars ,
.
1 36 THE C U L I N AR Y H AN DB O O K .

go l den brown ; serve p l ain or wi t h to ma to


'

t o d ice sha pe r oas t in a mediu m oven we ll , ,

done two a n d a hal f to three hou rs ; serve wi th R obe r t ,


Piquan te Curry Soub ise or sage
, ,

sage an d on i on dressin g gravy and appl e , , sauces or wi th f rie d appl es


,
.

sauce separa te ; o r wi th tom ato sauce or R ob , P OR K C H OPS S AU T E E S —Tri m the chops sea ,

er t or Piquan te sauce or wi th bak ed app l es


, , .
son wi th sal t a n d pepper fry them a gol d en ,

S T UFFE D LE G OF PO R K — For servin g cold . b r o wn wi th bu t ter Make a s ti ff purée o f spl i t


.

Lay the l eg on tabl e skin si d e d own re move ,


peas pl ace a heaping spoonfu l i n cen tre O f
,

th e ai tchbon e then cu t alon g the leg bone t o d ish place ch op on i t and pour a l i t tle gher
, ,

the knuc k l e j o i n t remove the leg bon e l eav ing the ,


k i n sauce over .

k nuc k l e bon e i n fi ll the cavi ty wi th a s t u Ei n g,


P O R K CR OQ U E T T E S AN C H OVY S AU C E ,

compose d o f f resh mashe d po ta toes m ince d a n d , Make the pork croque t te mi x ture from col d
sau t eed on ion sal t pepper sage pork sausage
, , , , roast pork tri mm ings seas on i t wi t h a l i t tl e
,

meat and on e whole egg to e ach leg Of pork ,


sage ad d ing to s t i E e n i t some pork sausage
,

d raw the mea t toge ther cl ose tie tigh tly score , , meat ; serve wi th a b rown th ick roas t pork gravy
th e rin d bake sl owl y wi th a f e w appl es in the
, flavored wi th anchovy essence .

pan til l d on e bast ing wi th th e a pple j uice and


, ,
E M E N C E OF PO R K WI TH F R I E D APPLE S
gravy ; then take up a n d al low to ge t thoroughl y — Take the lean Of cold roas t leg of pork a n d
cold ; se rve for l uncheon or supper i n slices ,
cu t i n ci rcul ar sl ices si ze of h al f dol lars dus t ,

garn ished ei ther wi th smal l pick l ed on ion s ,


the m wi th sal t pepper and powdered sage r e
, ,

sl iced gher k in s Tar tar sauce R e mou l ade , ,


h ea t the m i n sauce R ober t ; serve on toas t ;
sauce pu rée of cranber ries or pu rée of apples
,
.

garn ish ed wi th s l ices Of fried appl es .

S ALT PORK WI T H PA RSN IPS —L ean pick l ed


Af ter you have go t the gues ts ( especiall y i n a
fam ily h ote l ) to try th i s d ish you wil l have to ,
bell y of pork boil i t wi th whol e parsn ips for
kee p t wo o r th ree on h and a ll the ti me to keep ,

h al f an hou r ta k e up and drain then sl ice th e ,


u p th e demand .
,

pork and quar ter the parsn i ps n ow fry the pork


B ON E D B O I L E D S ALT L E G O F PORK — For
,

a golden b rown then th e parsn ips i n the pork


,

serving col d Use a 1 2 poun d leg ge t i t fresh


.
, ,
f a t ; serve t wo sl ices of each .

remove th e f oot rub wi th sal t wash i t pum p , , ,


M I N CE D PO R K WIT H F R I ED APPL E S
i t w i th brin e ; then l ay i t in brin e for four days ,
Lean minced f resh pork three par ts ; wh i te
take up d rain remove the bon es as i n th e pre
, ,
brea d soaked i n m ilk then squee zed d ry one ,
ceding reci pe d ra w the m ea t toge ther l e t ting
, ,
par t ; season wi th sal t peppe r and pow d ered ,
the th i n si d e come righ t over the th ick t i e ,
s a ge add a few beaten eggs mix all thoroughl y ;
, ,
tigh tl y wi th twi ne pu t to boi l in cold wa te r ,
pl ace i t i n a bu t tere d baking pan cover wi th a ,

wi th a fe w bay leaves and an on i on s tuc k wi th S hee t of bu t tered pape r and bake i n a med ium
cloves boi l sl o wly f o r on e hour and a quar te r
, ,
oven for an h ou r a n d a half cu t ou t i n squares ,

then al l o w i t to become thoro u ghl y col d i n t h e or d i amon d shape when d on e and served wi th
water i t was boile d in ; serve i n slices wi th a f rie d apples .

garn i sh of horser adish m us tard and a f e w


F R IED S AL T PO R K WITH APPL E S Take -

pickles o r sl i ced tom atoe s wi th T a r tar sauce .


,
th e col d rolle d bell y o f pork of a preceding
o r G erman po tato sal a d .

recipe slice i t i n quar ter inc h th icknesses rol l


, ,

C OLD ROL LED B E LLY O F P O R K ( ST U F F E D th e sl ices i n corn meal Ta k e sou r coo k ing .

OLIVES ) N ice l ean bell ies O f pic k le d pork


-
, apples core them sl ice i n h al f i nch thick
, ,

m ay be bone d rolle d t ied then wrapped i n a


, , , n esses then ar range the pork a n d appl es al ter
,

clo th a n d ti ed agai n l ike a rol y pol y pu d d ing ,


n a t e l y i n a bak ing pan brown OE Of an even ,

boil e d t ill tende r tak en u p a n d allo we d t o b e , col or i n a qu ick oven a n d se rve .

F R IED P OR K KID NEYS —T ake th e kidneys


come col d i n the cl o th i t was boil ed in th e ,

clo th then removed th e pork wiped w i th a h o t ,


a n d spl i t the m remove the wh i te cen tres soa k
,
we t cl o th ; served i n sl ices garn ish ed as above .
them i n sal ted water con taining a l i t t l e V i n egar
B R O ILED POR K C H OPS — Remove t he rind , for an hour ; then wipe d ry season wi th sal t , ,

cu t th e ch ops to an even thic k ness t ri m OE an y , pepper a n d powdere d sage roll i n flour fry a , ,

superfluous f a t season w i th sal t and pepper , , gol d en b rown wi th bu t ter ; serve on toas t garn ,

rol l i n bu t ter th en i n breadc rumbs and broil a i sh wi th B ru ssel s s prou ts and pou r over th e
gol d en b rown or b roil the m pl ain an d serve
, , ki d n eys a spoonfu l Of mai tre d ho tel b u t ter
_

.

plai n or wi th appl e sauce o r wi th R obert T a r , ,


P OR K S A U S AG ES —These m ay be m ade i n va r
tare Anchovy C urr y B re ton ne Soubise o r
, , , ,
i ous ways according to the price per d a y or
Lyon naise sauce s or se rve pl ai n and garn i she d ,
meal o f th e ho tel or res tau ran t T hey are .

wi th fried swee t po ta toes or fried apples .


rare l y made of the pu re mea t as when so m a d e ,
"

F R I ED PO R K C H OP S —R e m ov e th e r ind or
'

they are too ric h and u n pa l a t e ab l e I f h o w .


,

leave i t on ( some l ik e i t on ) season w i th sal t ,


ever a l arge p ropor ti on of the m ea t used be
,

and peppe r roll in fl ou r f r y wi th pork fat a


, , l ean the richness wi ll to a g rea t ex ten t d i s a p
T H E C U L I NARY HAN D B OO K . 1 37

pear I t is i n a ll cases howeve r advisab l e to CE R V E L AT P OL S E O R D AN I S H B E E F AN D


.
, ,

have presen t some cracke r meal bread or g ran POR K S AUS AG E— F o r th i s reci pe use 2 5 , ,

u l a t e d rice even if a d de d on l y i n small quan ti


, pounds each of bee f a n d pork t w elve and a .

ties as by tha t mean s only F I R MN E S S can


, half poun d s of pork fa t cu t i n s mal l d ice one , ,

b e O b tained T h e ho tel bu tche r or cook shoul d


. an d a hal f poun d s O f sal t 30 gram powde re d , .

ma k e al l the saus a ges u sed for every purpose sal tpe tre 5 0 gram g round whi te peppe r 50 , , . ,

and n o t have th em pu rchase d f rom the mea t pur gram pow d ere d sugar I 3 gram each of ground .
, .

ve o r
y I n the case of the sausages t h a t are
. ginge r a n d nu tme g R emo ve all sine ws then . ,

smoked e tc a n d served as a rel ish th a t par t


, .
, chop th e beef an d pork toge th e r qui te fi ne , ,

O f i t can be a l ways d on e by th e peopl e from ad ding the season ings towards the fi n ish then ,

whom you r hams are purchased f o r a m ere add th e diced fa t and thoroughl y m ix When .

t rifl e Fur the r i t i s m y very fi r m c o n v i c


. m ixed pl aced in to the fi lle r and fi l l T IG HTLY
,

t ion th at the or d in ary h ote l bu tcher kn ows


, , in to beef casin gs tying i n to 1 8 inch lengths ; ,
-

bu t l i t tl e abou t sausage makin g H e sh ou l d han g i n th e ai r for 2 4 hou rs then smoke i n .


,

k n ow ! and I shall here devot e se v eral pages o f very warm smoke till the sk i n s are bro wn ; then
th is book to th at teaching wi th th e h ope tha t boil them un til th e sausage i s as elas tic as an ,

i t wil l en ab l e the h o te l bu tch e r t o become of i n d i a r u b b e r bal l a n d wil l bounce i f d ropped on


much more va l ue to h is employer by economy th e table Th is i s a su re p roof tha t the saus , , .

a n d al so to become a m an p roper to use the age i s t h orough l y cook ed When done d ry .


,

t i tle Of bu tch er B u tcherin g i s n o t merely cu t them and gl aze the sk ins S erve as i n the fi rs t
. .

tin g roas ts chops s teaks h ams bacon and do


,
recipe i n s l ices as an appe ti ze r or H ors
, , , , , ,


in g gen eral garde mange work ; i t con sists of d oeuvre ’
.

a kn owl edge of wha t to do wi th mea t i n i ts K N OCK P OL SE OR H ARD SM OK E D D AN I S H


every u se an d how to u ti l i z e every par ticle t o
, S AU S AG E — F o r th is reci pe use 2 1 pounds of ,

advan tage hence as yo u h ave read so far i n


, beef 1 2 poun ds e ach O f veal and pork and 5
,
,

thi s book I have been p rofuse i n expl an ati on s


, pounds of pork fa t c u t in to small d ice one and ,

of th e uses of mea t an d how to p roperl y take a quar ter pou nd s of sal t 3 0 g ram powdered , .

care of i t ; as the B UT C HE R S B I LL i s al sal tpe tre 1 5 gram ground n u tmeg 2 0 gram


, .
,
.

way s th e heavies t on e fo r th e proprie tor to each Of ground ci nnamon an d ginge r 60 gram ,


.

mee t for the back par t of the house ground wh i te peppe r 4 gar l ic clove s and 4 .
,

DAN I S H S M O KED S AU S AG E —The fol lowing smal l sh all o ts fi nel y g rated F irs t chop beef .

reci pes h ave been obtain ed fro m the l arges t a n d and veal toge ther hal f fi n e then add the pork ,

bes t sau s a ge fac tory Of C openhagen Den mark and fin ish choppin g ti l l fi n e ad d ing the season , .
,

For th i s rec ipe use 2 5 pounds each o f l ean ings towards th e fin i sh ; then thorough l y work
,

beef an d pork 1 2 pounds of fa t cu t fi n e and 8 ,


i n the pork fa t c u t i n sm al l d ice Place the .

pound s Of f a t cu t i n to small d ice t wo and a mea t in th e sausage fil le r an d fi ll i n to hog cas ,

hal f pounds of sa l t 3 0 gram powdered sal t ings tying i n six inch l eng th s mea t N O T to be
. . , ,

petre 7 0 g ram powdered sugar 8 5 g ram


,
filled too tig h tl y When filled hang t o d ry for
.
, .
. ,
'

ground wh i te peppe r Remove al l sinews then a day and smoke in warm smoke B oil for ea t
.
,
.

chop th e beef an d pork toge the r ; wh e n abou t ing ho t or cold .

h al f chopped add the 1 2 po u nds of fa t and fi n W E I N E R P OLS E OR B AVA RIAN SA U S AG E


,

ish by ch opping a l l fi ne a d d in g th e season i n gs For thi s reci pe use 2 5 pounds of pork 1 2


, , ,

toward th e fi n ish ; then work i n thoroughly the poun d s of veal 1 2 pound s of pork fa t 2 0 , ,

8 poun d s O f fa t cu t i n sm al l dice When well ounces O f sal t 3 0 gram powdere d sal tpe tre 3 0 . , . ,

m ixed the whol e mass should be packe d t igh tl y gram ground coriander 5 0 gram po wdere d . ,
.

i n a wooden trough fo r 2 4 h ours so a s to al l ow sugar 60 gram groun d whi te peppe r 2 garl ic ,


. ,

th e sal tpe te r to e E e c t i t s color an d a l so rende r cl oves and 4 shallots gra te d fin e Use onl y the .

th e mass more fi rm The mea t i s th en pl aced bes t m ea t an d C A R E FU L LY re move al l


.

in to the sausage fi ll er and fil led in to beef cas sin e ws M inc e th e pork a n d veal togethe r fi rs t
,
. ,

ings as T I G H T LY AS POS S I B LE The tigh te r then m inc e the fa t th en th orough l y m ix a ll to . ,

th e skin i s fi l l ed th e be t te r th e sausage will be ge th e r add ing th e season ings Place in to the


, ,
.

fo r cu t ting when dried When th e ca sings a r e sau s age fi ller a n d fi l l in to sheep or l amb cas
.

fil l e d they sh ou l d be l aid i n a pic kl in g tub an d


,
ings tyin g i n to fi ve inch l in k s L e t the m hang ,
.

l igh tl y covered wi th coarse sal t pl ace a board for 2 4 h ours then sm oke i n war m smoke un til , ,

on top a n d le t the m remain till the sal t h as of a brigh t b rown col or ; boi l fi ve to eigh t m i n
tu rned in to pick l e then li f t the m ou t an d han g u tes when they are ready for th e tabl e .

i n the ai r un til AL L mois tu re h as run OE them LE V E R P O L SE O R L I V E R S AU S AG E —For


, ,

When d ry they should b e smoked i n cold , th i s rec i pe , use I l arge pig s l iv e r 1 0 poun d s of ’
,

smok e un til th ey are a rich d ar k b rown in color vea l ( from the nec k ) 1 0 pou n d s Of bel ly of
.

Th e sausage i s then ready for ea ting and wil l ,

O f por k fa t 3 poun ds of sa l t 4 0
,

keep for severa l m on ths Le n g th abou t eigh pork 8 poun d s . ,


, , ,

ram po dered thyme g ra m each of


g w

teen i nches .
5 0 . ,
.
.
1
38 T H E C U L I N ARY H AND B O OK .

groun d n u tmeg and g inge r 60 gram of pow a fin e sieve to b reak up an y l u mps M ix 1 5


, . . .

d ere d marj oram 1 4 0 g ram ground whi te pep , po und s o f the cook ed mea t as above wi th one
.

per 5 poun d s Of lean po r k 4 s mal l on i on s i n


, gallon O f bl ood and season to tas te Pour
, .

win te r N ON E i n su m mer a s th ey easil y cause


, t hrough a fun ne l i n to beef m id d l e casings fi l l
, ,

aci d i ty R e move sin e ws an d gri s tl e f rom th e


. ing three par ts ful l the e n d bei ng ti ed Ti e , .

pork and veal boi l the m an d m i nce toge ther


, th e Open e n d a n d pl ace the sausage i n the .
,

The fa t to b e cu t in to small dice the l ive r to b e b ro th and allo w i t to boil T he bl oo d i n coo k


,
. ,

s k inn e d a n d th e thick vein s re moved a n d to be


,
i n g wil l expand and fi ll ou t the re maini ng par t ,

boiled i n th e boil in g b ro th for fi ve m i nu tes ; of th e casin g S ti r con tin ually or th e blood .


,

then c h o p i t a l i t tl e a d d a l i t tl e sal t a n d mi nce


, wil l al l col lec t i n the l o wer si d e of th e c asing
,
.

qui te fi n e N o w th ro w th e m inced vea l a n d


. When cooked the sau sage wil l ri se t o th e su r ,

pork d ic ed fa t and l i ve r i n to th e m ixer al ong


, face owing to th e expansion of the ai r Where ,
.

wi th the fi ve pound s of m i nced R AW lean pork eve r ai r col lec ts pierce wi th a fork or fa t wil l , ,

add th e spices an d a cup f ul of th e fa t a n d wa ter fi ll these pl aces W hen of a goo d appearance . ,

fro m t h e bro th and m i x al toge ther thoroughly re move and wash i n clean cold water and al lo w .

Place the mea t in to th e sau sage fi ller and fill i t to rema i n there til l col d The sausage m ay .

i n to hog casings N OT too t igh t tyi ng i n to 1 8 be i mproved by smokin g cold ove r a l ow fi re of


,

i nch l eng ths T hen boi l th e sausages i n boi l


. sh aving s and sawd ust A h o t fi re wil l cause i t .

i n g water 2 0 m inu tes take up wash th e m a n d to swea t an d spoi l i ts appearance


, ,
.

l ay the m on a t abl e t o c ool T h ey are t hen B L OO D S AU S AG E ( N O R T H G E R M ANY )


.

rea d y for th e table cu t i n sl ices col d A re also , B oil fa t po rk til l n o t qui te cooked an d then cu t .

u sed frie d i n slices warm T h is saus a ge can i t in to small d ice To every 1 0 pounds boi l 2
.
.

be smok ed in col d smoke i n win ter and keeps pound s o f well d ried pork rinds an d a cal f s o r
,
,
'

we ll .
pig s l ungs o r i n s tea d of th a t a corresp ondin g '
, , ,

L E V E R P OS T E ] L I V E R W U R ST O R D AN IS H ,
quan ti ty of pork tri mmings Wh en t hese are .


L I VE R S AU S AGE I o pounds O f pigs fla re boi led ten d e r pu t the rin d s a n d l un g s o r t ri m'
,
,

'
3 or 4 pig s l ivers accor d i n g t o si z e 4 t o 5
m ings th rough t he m incing m ach in e scal d the ,
,

poun d s o f m i nce d l ean por k 1 0 eggs 6 to 1 2 por k dice and add enough well bea ten p
,
ig s ,
,

bl ood t o m a k e th e wh ole mo d era tely l iquid


anchovi es acco r d in g to si ze Ad d pepper sal t .
, .
,

then ge t th e exac t weigh t ( rec k on 1 2 poun d s t o


n u tmeg a n d cin namon t o season according to
taste Fill i n to beef c asings b oil t wo h ours
.
the gallon ) T o every gall on a d d 6 ounces of
.
.
,

T hese are wel l l iked by mos t people sal t 1 ounce o f wh i te pepper


.
ounce each , ,

of groun d cloves a n d marj oram S ti r al l well


B E E F S A US AG ES — A good ar tic l e for th e
.

.
toge t h er an d fi l l i n to casi ngs B oil abou t an .

“ '
hel p s hal l T a k e 2 0 poun d s O f fl an k o f hou r an d a hal f un til n o bl o o d oo zes ou t on the
beef free d f rom ski n a n d bon es c u t i t u p i n to sausages bein g p ricked O n coming ou t O f the
, _ .

i nch pi eces a n d m i x thoroughl y i n to i t 1 0 boiler wash i n warm water a n d l ay on a tabl e , ,

ounces of sal t 4 ounces of pepper h al f an , to cool and afterwards s moke f o r a few days , ,

ounc e of groun d n u tmeg an d 2 ounces o f i n cold smoke ( T o every I O pounds o f sausage


, .

rubbed sage then m i nce through th e m achin e


, mea t rec k on abou t one and a hal f pounds of ,

mean whil e soa k 4 l oaves O f bread ( eigh t poun d s ) bl oo d ) .

sq u eeze i t d r y a n d am algamate wi th the m eat B L O OD S AUS A G E ( FR E NC H ) T ake e q ua l ,


-

then a d d D R Y three poun d s of sif ted crac k e r


, quan ti ties Of l ean a n d f a t p ork and boil i t till
meal ; then place th e whol e i n to th e sau sage ten d er ; then cu t th e fa t i n to sm al l dice and the
fi ller a n d fi l l i n to sheep casings l in k them ; l ean m ea t i n to smal l pieces M ean whi l e h av e
, .

then separa te th e l in k s arrange i n baking pan som e on i on s l eek s a n d shallots stea med so f t
, , , ,

and bake til l d on e and b rown abou t 1 5 m in a d d e d to the above m e at T o every 1 0 pound s
, .

u tes .
of th i s sau sage mea t add 2 pound s of pig s
'

B L O OD S A U S AG E —U s e cheek m ea t hear t bl ood 5 ounces o f sal t X e ounce of wh i te pep


, ,
, ,

lu n gs a n d pork rin d s in an y quan ti ty tha t i s


,
per an d on e ten th of an oun ce each o f ground
con ven ien t C u t the por k rind s i n to smal l
.
mace a n d thy me S ti r al l well toge ther a n d fil l .

pi eces boil i n cl ean wa te r un ti l th ree pa r t s


,
in to n a rrow h og casings B oi l un til n o bl ood .

coo k ed saving th e bro th and th e rin d s C u t


,
exu d e s on b ein g p ricked T hen re move and .
.

th e bal ance of the m ea t toge th e r qu i te fi n e wash i n war m wa ter and l e t cool on a table .
,
.

an d boi l i t slowl y wi th th e pork ri n d s a n d B O L OG N A S AU S AG E —U se l ean f resh mea t


,

b ro th allo wing the bro th to cover t he mea t


, tri m m ings an d ch ee k mea t C hop toge ther . .

Remove the f a t tha t comes to the sur f ace cook very fi ne ; wh ile ch oppin g add spices and sea ,

u n til i t i s well don e T ake on e gal lon of cal f s . son in g a n d f ro m 2 5 t o 30 ounces o f sal t to '
,
'
or pig s fresh bloo d i m m e d i a t e l y a f te r k ill ing eve ry 1 0 0 poun d s of m ea t T o eve ry 1 0 0 . .

S ti r i t in a vessel 1 0 to 1 5 minu tes un ti l i t will pounds o f bee f a d d 5 poun d s of pure fat ei the r ,
'

re tain i ts fluid condi tion T hen pass th rough fresh or Sal te d pork
. When t h e b e e f i s n earl y .
1 40 TH E C U LINA R Y H ANDB O OK .

soake d a n d p ressed d r y 4 ounces of w h i te pep long B oil them gen tl y one h our i n f resh clear
, .

per 1 3 ounces O f sal t


, of an ounce each o f wa ter When d on e t ak e up i n to col d runn ing
,
.
,

groun d nu tm eg a n d ginger O f an ounce of water which wil l make the m beau ti f ully wh i te
, ,
.

ru b b e d ma rj oram M i x the season in gs wi th L IVE R S A U S AG E —T o ev ery t wo h og s l ivers


.

the m ea t m ince fi n e then work i n th e brea d ;


, a d d on e cal f s l iver ; cu t i n th in sl ices
, S cald '
.

place in to th e fi lle r fi ll in to sheep casings l in k wel l wi th ho t wa te r un til the l ivers l ook wh i te


, ,

th em and u se b y f ry ing and broil ing


, and clean C hop well a d d in g on e eigh th the . .
,
-

E PPI N G S A U SAG E 3 0 pounds of por k a moun t of pure pork fat boi ling th e f a t f o r h alf ,

f a t a n d l ean 8 poun d s of bread s oa k e d a n d


,
an hou r before mi xing M i x an d chop toge ther .

presse d d ry 4 ounces o f wh i te pepper 1 3,


very fin e ad d ing f ou r ounces of fa t por k to , ,

ou n ces Of sal t of an oun ce each o f mace,


every fi ve pound s o f the balan ce Then boil .

an d rubbed s a ge P repa re an d u se a s above . fo r hal f an h ou r add in g th e followi n g spices to . ,

F R ANKF O R T S AU S A G E S ( W E I N E R W U R S T ) each 1 00 poun d s : 7 ounces sal t 2 ou n c es pep ,

—9 poun d s O f v eal 3 6 pc u n d s of lean pork a n d per 1 ounce groun d m arj oram


,
ou nce each , ,

poun d s f fa t por k h p fi n ely ad in g a o f g round sage basil and thy me 2 m inced


5 O C o d .
,
, ,

s e ason i n g o f 1 pou n d of sal t 6 ounces of whi te on ion s an d a smal l h ead of garl ic ,


S tu ff fro m .

pepp e r a n d on e h ead o f garl ic ; when rea d y s t u E e r i n to n arrow hog casin gs 1 3 to 1 8 i nches -


,

pl ac e in t o the fi lle r a n d fil l in to sheep casings . l on g ( no t fi ll ing v ery full ) tying th e ends wi th


linki n g the m a t abou t f ou r to the poun d S mo k e t wine When fi lle d a n d t ied the y are cooked .
.
,

for 4 8 hours boi l for 5 min u tes be f ore serving


,
i n water j us t belo w th e boili ng poin t for thi r ty
pl ai n or wi th sauer k rau t e tc minu tes ( to give th e wh i te appearance ) con ti n
, .

u a l l y s ti rrin g them C are mus t be taken t o


C H I C KEN H A M AN D T ON G U E S AU SAGE
.

1 0 pou n d s o f lean por k


p rick the ai r places o r they will fi l l wi th fat .

4 poun d s of f a t por k 4
,

A f te r cooling han g fo r th ree d ays i n th e open


, ,

poun d s o f veal , 2 poun d s o f ox tongue 4 poun d s ,

ai r then smo k e for six d ay s over a sl o w fi re


,

o f granula te d r ice scal d e d


.

2 poun d s o f c rac k e r
,

S A R D IN E LIVE R
,

S AU S AG E — U se 4 0 pound s
meal t h e m ea t f rom on e fow l and si x h ar d
,

pounds b on ed nd
'
boiled eggs 9 ounces of sal t 3 ounc es o f p e p
,
boiled pigs l ive rs 7 % ,
a ,

tri mme d sard ines 1 5 poun d s cook ed veal 7 %


pe r , an oun ce each of gro un d mace and , ,

poun d s coo k e d l ean por k 2 0 poun d s c o o k ed f a t


fi nel y chopped parsley a n d M Of an ounce o f ,
,

w d d
po e re thy me C u t th e mea ts in t o pieces .
por k 1 0 poun d s raw fa t pork C hop toge the r ,
.

a d d the season i n g a n d rice m ince al toge the r till


very fi n e and a d d 1 4 ounces sal t 1 0 ounces , ,
,
whi te peppe r 1 ounce each g roun d thym e a n d
fin e th en the eggs m ince d a n d the meal fi ll in to
, , ,
,

marj oram S tu E i n to beef m i d d l e casing s


weasand casings si mmer sl owly for an hou r . .

,
,

use cold i n sl ices .


C ook a n d smo k e the same as the l iver sausage
of the prece d in g recipe
T R U FFLE D L IVE R S AU SAG E —
.

E — ( Ger man recipe )


T ake 5 poun d s
o f pig s l iver a n d
' LYON S S AU S AG The . .

3 poun d s o f f a t pork M ince


Lyon s sausage ( Saucisse de Lyon ) was in tro .

these toge ther very fi ne a n d a d d a o f a poun d


d u c e d i n to G ermany i n t h e yea r 1 8 5 2 b y Lill
,
-

o f t ru ffles c u t i n to n a rrow s t rips a n d coo k e d i n


on h i s re turn from h i s tou r i n France S ausage
win e Ad d a season ing o f sal t a n d pepper a n d
.

ma k ers th rough ou t G erman y then t ried to mak e


knead toge ther F ill in to n ar row hog casi n gs .

i t because o f h is success wi th i t bu t n o on e ,
,
sim mer for a b ou t hal f an hour wash wel l i n cold ,

el se succeed ed I t can onl y be man ufac tu red ,


.

water a n d h ang up to dry I f to be kep t a n y .

to keep by takin g the greates t of c are Wh en .

ti me s mo k e for a d r y
, Take care to use n o .

i t i s wel l made an d wel l d ried i t would pass fo r


spices o therwi se t h e flavo r o f the t r u me s will be ,
,
C ervela t sausage I t i s prepared i n th e fol lo w
spoiled
.

ing mann e r : For a quan ti ty o f 4 0 pound s t ak e


G OOSE L IVE R S AU SAGE T R UF FLED —T a k e 2 5 pounds of well fed pork 1 0 poun d s bee f f ro m
, ,

2 poun d s of well blanche d calf s l ive r c u t i n


'
a young b ulloc k wh ich shoul d be chopped up ,

pieces t he si z e of sm al l n u ts 4 poun d s each of when war m an d then pounded i n m or tar 5 , ,

l ean a n d f a t fi rm f resh pork bo th m ince d very poun d s por k fat cu t i n to dice the si ze O f peas ,

fin e Nex t a d d 4 sh allo ts sl ice d an d f rie d wi th


.
an d then c ooked for a l i t tle i n b oil ing wa te r 1 2 ,

bu tte r t o a gol d en col o r S eason wi th 5 ou n ces ounces sal t 2 ounces I n d ian cane sugar 1 ounce
.
, ,

o f sal t V 2 an ounce of wh i te peppe r


, on e fi f t h powd ere d sal tpe tre M ix the t wo lean mea ts - “

, . ,

of an ounce each o f groun d gi n ger a n d m ace then m i x t h e sal t sal tpe tre and sugar R u b .
,
.

T hen cu t from a fi n e r e d coo k e d tongue h al f the m i n to t he mea ts an d l e t i t s tan d fo r 4 8 ‘

a poun d cu t i n very sm all d ice al so a qu ar te r


, hours i n a cool room i n sum mer a n d a warm ,

o f a poun d o f tru ffles ; m ix al l well T hen ta k e room i n win ter N ow ch op up th e mea t fi ne . . ,

5 poun d s of geese l ivers bl anched a n d sliced then m i x the season ings a n d a d d them T hey . .

Fil l in to th e fille r al terna tel y the t r u ffle d m ea t are 2 oun ces wh i te peppe r ounce each o f ,

and the sl ice d geese [l iver s T hen p ress i n to groun d wh i te ginger a n d n u tmeg 2 shall o ts ,
.

very wi d e pig s k in s no t mo re than 1 2 inches sal te d a n d grate d B efore the pork fa t i s pu t .


T H E C UL IN A R Y H AN D B OOK . 1 41

amon gs t th e rest the spices shoul d be wel l ,


c racke r dus t addin g co l d wa ter to i t as i t b e
,

m ix e d up a mongs t th e o the r things and a l i t tle comes too s ti E When of the p roper sausage
.

wate r wor k e d i n to the m ass N o w m i x i n . con sis tency place i n to the fi lle r a n d fi ll i n to
, ,

l igh tl y a n d q uic k ly th e pea d iced por k fa t Pu t . por k casings l i nk in g th em si x t o th e poun d


,
.

the m ea t i n to m e d i um wi d e beef runners 1 5 , POR K S AU SAG E S E AS ONIN G T horoughl y


inch es l ong p re ssing i t in very t igh t N o w
, .
m i x toge ther then keep i n tigh t cove red tins
, ,

D RY th e sausage s WE L L before smo k ing .


9 poun d s table sal t 6 pounds pu re ground ,

Wh en they are s mo k e d a fi n e red co l or pu t , wh i te pepper pound e a ch of ground m ace


, ,

the m a t once in to a saucepan a n d cook f o r h al f , ground n u t meg a n d ru b bed sage l eaves 1 o u nce
, ,

an h ou r a t a h ea t o f 2 0 3 “ Fah r When the .


each of g round cl oves ginge r a n d rubbed b asil , ,

sausage s a re c ool there are usually some , and an ounce of cayenn e peppe r .

wrinkles in th e sk in ; thi s can be reme d ie d by S A L AM I— Use 5 0 poun d s of beef f ree from fibre ,

pu t tin g th e m i n pair s in to boil ing wate r n o t 2 5 pounds each of l ean and fa t pork chop very ,

more than fi f teen seconds A f te r they are co o l .


fin e a n d add 1 8 % ounces of sal t 4 % ounces ,

again th ey shoul d be smoked i n co l d smok e for


,
ground wh i te pepper 1 % ounce s groun d sal t ,

eigh t h ou rs ; they a re then re ad y .


petre wi th 8 glasses of Rhin e wine i n which
, ,

OB E R L AN D LI VE R S AU S AG E Take a p reviousl y h as been soa k ed on e pound of garlic .

shou l de r of pork a n d re move the bones a n d ( In p l ace O f R hin e wine r u m may b e use d ) ,
.

skin B oi l i t wel l wi th th ree poun d s of bacon


.
S tu E i n to calf s bla d d ers Le t the m h ang i n
'
.

cu t in d ice T h en m ince th e shoul d er w i th


.
th e open ai r for t wo o r t h ree weeks then s moke ,

hal f i t s weigh t o f r a w l ive r an d a l a rge on ion fo r 1 2 d a y s .

chopped ve ry fi n e ; a d d th e d iced bacon and V E R ONA S AL AM I ( Salam i d e Verona ) U se 1 8 -

season wi th sal t peppe r an d g ra ted n u t meg , ,


poun d s of cleaned beef 1 8 pound s of lean por k , ,

a n d m ix i n a li t tle fa t i f th e pas te i s too s t i E


1 4 poun d s of b ac k fa t 2 poun d s of sal t 1 ounce , ,

S t u E i n t o ox ski n s and boi l gen tly for 4 0 min


of p owdere d sal tpe tre 3 ounces each o f g roun d ,
u tes T hen ta k e u p in to col d runn ing wa ter
.
,
whi te peppe r and can e sugar 1 g ill of Ol d ,
and keep th e m i n i t un ti l q ui te s ti E .
F ren ch cognac Fi rs t m ince the meat the n
PO L I S H S A U S AG E — T his i s th e n a ti onal sau
. ,

chop th e fa t i n a m ongs t i t the si ze of pecan


sage o f Polan d li k e d by rich and poor : Ta k e
-
,
nu ts ; then m ix i n the spices an d chop un til th e ,

2 5 poun d s of pork l ean a n d fat wh ich


, , , fa t is th e si ze of peas Wipe the k n ive s o f ten .

h a s been sal ted for a f e w d ays wi th 1 pound


whil e mincing T h ree s tic k s of g arl ic fi n e l y
.

sal t and a l i tt l e sugar G rate fi nely th ree l arge .


gra ted may be a d de d U se sk in s for h oldin g .

c l oves of garl ic sal t them s ti r i n a mongs t them


, ,
th is a n d bin d wi th p re t ty th ick s t rin g all t h e
,
a qua r t of wa ter T hen a d d the meat wh ich .

way over For the res t p repare l ike C e rve


.

,
has been choppe d i n to d ice si ze N ow add 1 %
la t sausage bu t d o n o t smok e ; onl y le t the salam i
.

ounces pepper ounce gra ted n u tmeg M ix


, .

wel l and pu t i n to n arrow pig s k in s very full h ang for fou r o r fi ve weeks to d ry .

When fi lled t i e i n to fi f teen in ch l engths ; h an g


,
S M O K E D S A U SAG E O R KN AC KWU R S T
to dry for a day ; then smoke the m wi th beech T ak e 60 pound s of l ean por k 1 4 pound s of ,

wood a t a h ea t of 1 3 3 “ F a h r a n d le t the m hang .


,
l ean bee f an d 2 6 pound s of fa t por k C hop ver y .

til l they are thoroughl y cooked i nside merely fi n e th en a d d 1 poun d sal t 5 % ounce s ground
, ,

wi th the ho t smo k ing .


pepp er 1 % ounces ground sal tpe t r e 2 % ounces
, ,

PO R K S AU SAGES ( firs t c l ass ) — Take 1 5 pounds whol e caraway seeds a s mall quan ti ty O f gra te d ,

of l ean and 6 poun d s o f fa t pork cu t i t up i n to gar l ic S tu E i n beef roun d s o r ho g c asin gs


.
.

t wo inch pieces a n d m i x wi th i t 1 4 ounces of - H ang in t he ai r for 8 d ay s then s moke for 6 ,

pork sausage season ing ( from recipe below ) ,


days th ey m ay then b e prese rved i n a coo l
,
.

chop toge ther fi ne or run th rough mea t cu t tin g d ry pl ace .

T E N DE R L O I N S AU S AG E —T ake th e pork
,

m achin e wi th a fine pla te ; then thorough ly i n


corporate wi th i t 3 pounds of c ru mb brea d tenderl oin s a n d t ri m them as n ear the shape of
soaked and pressed When m ixe d fur ther .
,
a sausage as possible ; rub wi th ho t sal t a n d ,

work i n on e pound of si f ted c rac k er d us t . pl ace f o r t w o wee k s i n a vesse l c on tai n in g a


Pl ace the mass then i n to t h e sau sage fi lle r a n d ,
sol u tion of 1 7 ounces of sal t boiled i n 5 pin ts of
run in to pig casin gs l in k in g the m a t six to the ,
water . R emove wash an d s t u E tigh tl y in
, ,

pou n d .
beef bungs S moke fo r two weeks
. .

P ORK S AU SAG E S (g OOd ord in ary sausage ) —Ta k e T H UR I NG I AN R ED S A U S AGE —1 4 pounds


1 5 pounds l ean a n d fa t pork a n d pork t ri m th ick s treaky pork OE th e bell y par t ( hal f ten d
mings cu t i t up in to t wo inch pieces a n d m ix
,
-
erly cooked ) cu t i n q uar ter i nch dice 3 pound s ,

wi th i t 1 1 ounces O f pork sausage sea s on ing ; of b oil ed pigs rin ds 4 pounds r a w l iver a n d ,

chop fine then thoroughly incorpora te wi th i t 4


,

l ungs fi ne l y minced Th i s m ay b e varied by .

pounds of c ru mb bread soaked an d p ressed . subs t i tu t in g boil ed tongue or sal te d boil e d


When mi xed fur ther work in 4 pounds of sif ted
, hear t o u t i n to pi eces of e q ua l si z e Now pu t 8
,
.
1 42 THE C U LIN A RY H AN DB O O K .

pound s of bl ood i n a tin d i sh an d th en in to a h our boil th em wi th a sm all piece of sal tpetre


, ,

big po t an d s ti r C ON ST AN T LY un til hot


,
and th e s wee t tas te will be rem ove d . .

A d d fi rs t the rind l iver a n d l ungs a n d s ti r P OT A T OE S B AKED I N T H E I R SKIN S will


, ,
,

well and then the pork S eason wi th 2 4 ounces


, al ways come ou t m ore d r y a n d m ealy i f a small
.

o f tabl e sal t 3 ounces groun d whi te peppe r 1


,
piec e be cu t O E ON E end to allow s team to .

ounce g roun d m arj oram of an ounce each ,

escape i n coo k in g
,
.

o f groun d caraway see d s and g round cl oves .

k P O T A T OE S WHEN B OI LI N G are some ti m e s


Work all thoroughly toge t h e r and as quic l y ,

d all owe d too much wate r so th a t i t boil s over


as possibl e fi ll th e ho t meat i n to th e wi es t ,

pigsk i n s you h ave G i ve pl en ty of room


. a n d on to th e range pro d ucing a very d is a greea b l e
,
,

then pu t a t once in to wate r wh ich i s B O I LIN G smel l A li t tl e ba k ing soda th rown on to any .

H A R D ; s ti r con stan tly Prick thi s sausage bu rn in g overflow of th i s n atu re will imme d
.


Fah r i a t e l y d ri ve away al l Od ors
o f ten a n d cook a t a tempera tu re Of 2 2
,
1 .
.

I t i s read y when on pric k in g th e f a t which ex F R EN C H F R I E D PO T A T OES —R a w peeled


, ,

n d e s i s per f ec tl y cl ear S m o ke i n col d smo k e pota toes c u t i n s trips abou t the si ze o f the l i t tle
. ,

wi th som e j un i per ber ries in the sa w d u st fi nger f rie d in ho t fa t t ill don e ta k en up an d .


, ,

d raine d spri nkl ed wi th sal t then se rve d


T OM AT O S A U S AGE S L ean mu t ton 6 pound s -
,
, , .

mu t ton fa t 8 poun d s canned to ma toes 3 poun d s PA R I S IEN N E P O T ATOE S B a l l s abou t the si z e


, ,
-

si f ted cracker dus t 1 72 poun d s scal d e d g r a n u o f sm all ch erries scooped ou t o f raw po ta toes ;
,

l ated rice 1 pound 1 0 ounces sausage season ,


coo k e d a n d served the same as French f rie d .

ing C u t the mea t u p fi n e i n the machi ne tak e LYON NAI S E — Cold boi l ed potatoes e i t h e r
. ,
,

ou t in to a m i x e r a n d a d d the r ice an d tom atoes


, m inced or sl iced thinl y season e d wi th sal t a n d ,
,

then the season ing a n d th e c racker dus t Pl ace pepper mixed wi th a li t tle ch opped parsley an d .
,

i n th e filler fi ll in to sheep casin gs a n d l in k


, m i n ced frie d on ion s ; frie d wi th bu t te r i n the
,

them 6 t o th e p ound ( Wh en cheap enough f or m o f an omel e t


. , .

u se fresh to ma toes ) .
S AU T E —Al so called H OM E F R IED C OT ,

V EA L S AU SAG ES — Ch op to g e ther 2 2 poun d s of T AG E F R I ED G E RM AN F R I ED : a r e thinl y ,

veal f ree d fro m sin e w an d 1 1 poun d s O f bacon sl ice d col d boile d po ta toes seasoned wi th sal t ,
,

and ma k e ve ry fi n e ; season wi th 1 2 ounce s o f an d pepper browned on both si d es in a f r y pan ,

sal t I VZ ounces groun d wh i te pe pper 3 n u t


, con tain i n g bu t ter For RES T AU R AN T serv , .

meg s gra ted and oun ce of g roun d mace ice they shoul d b e served i n the for m of an .

Kn ead al l toge ther addin g a pin t of milk Fil l , ome l e t n icel y b rowned .
, .

in to n arro w skin s .
S T E WED I N C RE AM —Raw pota toes cu t i n
W E S T PHAL IAN S A U SAG E —T ak e three par ts very smal l d ice boile d till per f ectl y d one , ,

of l ean a n d one par t o f fa t por k a n d cu t i n to d rain ed pu t in a s te w p an wi th a piece of goo d


, ,

pi eces l ike small d ice ; th en season wi th sa l t bu tte r season ed wi th sal t cove re d wi th c ream , , , ,

pepper a n d cloves so th a t i t tas tes mil d l y o f , si mmered for t wo or th ree min u tes then served , .

the spice s a n d k n ea d al l toge the r


,
S tu E i n to
HA S HED I N C R E A M — Same as th e preceding
.

,
l on g n arrow casin gs a n d l e t d ry ou t o f doors ,
bu t havi n g the po ta toes m inced afte r whol e
for several d ays ; then smoke yell ow N O T E : boil i ng in s tead o f cu t in dice .
.
,

T h e above sausage i s m ad e al m os t exac tl y l ike


S C ALL OPED PO T ATOE S — Same as s tewed i n
the
crea m above ; when r e r d y to serve pu t i n to ,

S AS T E R S A U S AGE of the coun try peopl e o f scallop or vege tabl e dishes sprin k le wi th gra te d ,

Sc otl and onl y th e Sco tch o mi t t h e s mo k in g


,
'
cheese and breadc ru mbs b rown OE quic k l y i n ,
,

a n d th e s a s te r s are d ried b y hanging f rom a the oven or un d er a salam an d er .

s t rin g a t tache d to the ceil in g i n the k i tchen H AS HED B R OWN E D — S ame as the m inced .

T he Sco tch sausages are u sually kep t f or sev Ly on n aise bu t om i t ting th e pars l ey and on i on .
,

eral m on th s before being use d


J U LIEN N E —R a w peel ed po ta toe s cu t i n sh reds
.

P OTA T OES are much imp roved i f peeled a n d l i k e ma tch es frie d a d e l ica te brown i n ve ry hot ,

laid i n col d water ove rnigh t I t saves t i me i n l ar d taken u p a n d d rained spri nkle d wi th sal t
.

, ,

the morn i ng and they are n ice r and wh i te r i n


,
and fi ne pa rsley d us t .

con se q uence
S T EWED WI T H B A C ON — B acon cu t i n smal l
.

I N STE AM IN G POT A T O E S pu t a cl oth ove r‘


d ice f ried wel l d on e d raine d mi xe d i n wi th
,
, , ,

them be f ore plac ing on th e s team e r l id they pota toes s tewed i n c ream , .

will then tak e l ess ti me to coo k and b e m uch PO A OES R E I T Z —S hapes of the paral lelo
T T
more m eal y than wh en s teame d wi thou t the gram Or l ong square ( ab ou t two i nch e s l on g ,
cl o th
and an inch square ) cu t wi th a ribbed scal lop
.

T O E XTR ACT FR OS T F R OM PO T A T OE S kn ife s teame d t wo th i rd s d on e then pl unge d ,


-
,

A f ter paring pu t the m in cold wa ter f o r an


, in to ho t fa t and fi n i shed l ike French fri ed .
1
44 T H E C U L I N ARY H AN DB O O K .

P O T AT O E S G AS T R O N O M E — ( I ) Raw cu t , on e gallon of v ery th in cream sauce season ,

wi th c ol um n cu t ter si z e an d shapes of cork s , , wi th sal t pepper an d n u tmeg fi n ish wi th a


, ,

s tea med barely don e th en f ried wi th bu t ter til l



, spri nkl ing of chopped che rvi l ; serve wi th Cl Ofi ‘

don e and of a golden color ; serve d sprinkled ton s .

wi t h sal t a n d parsley dus t ( 2 ) C u t same as .


P OTAT O S O UP ( 2 ) — On e pound of m ashed
No I parboile d i n water c on tain in g a l i t tle vin
.
,
pota toes rubbed th rough the tami s a d ded to ,

egar d rain th en sau té wi th bu t ter t il l d one


, , ,
on e gall on of thin c reamy soup ma d e from
t ake u p an d serve wi th Perigu eux sauce .
wh i te s to c k i n wh ich h as been cooke d on i on , ,

PO T A T OE S M AIR E — C u t wi th a l arge column carrot celery sal t pork an d a h a m knuck l e ;


, ,

c u t ter tubes of r aw po ta toes cu t these in to ,


season wi th sal t pepper an d n u tmeg fi n ish wi th , ,

sl ices six t o th e i nch boi l til l barel y d on e then , ,


a sp rin k lin g of ch opped pars l ey ; serve wi th
si m me r til l don e i n r e d uced c ream cro u ton s .


.

P O T A T OE S M ONAC O — Sl ices sa me as M ai re ,
PO T A T O SO UP On e poun d of m ashed
cook e d same as G as tron ome N O 1 . .
po ta toes rubbed th rough the tam is ( they should
P OT A T O ES G E NEVO I SE — T a k e smal l fan cy have been boiled i n wa ter th a t h am s h ave been
pat ty pan s bu t te r the m well th en c oa t th e i h
, ,
boiled i n ) ; u se th i s wa ter in conj unc ti on wi th
si d e wi th grated cheese fil l wi th mashed po t a , .
veal s toc k to ma k e a th i n creamy soup th en
, ,

a d d the p u r e é of po ta toes fi n i sh wi th a l iaison


toes spri nkl e wi th g ra ted ch e ese ba k e h al f an
, ,
,

hou r in a me d iu m oven .
of eg g yolks a n d c ream re move f rom th e fi re , ,

P O T AT O E S C OND E — Scoop ou t ball s of raw an d pour the soup Over a b rai sed j ul ienn e of
pota toes wi t h a l arge scoop s team b arel y don e vege tables .

P O T AT O S OU P ( 4 ) — T hree pound s of pee l ed


, ,

then fry til l d on e and bro wn i n cl ari fi e d bu t ter .

serve sp rinkle d wi th sal t a n d par sl ey d u s t .


po ta toes slice d wi th a S ara toga cu t te r on e ,

POTAT O E S C O LB E R T —C ol d boile d an d peele d large on ion peel ed a n d sl iced an d on e h ead o f


p ota toes cu t in l a rge d ice si m mere d i n C olber t cel ery sl ice d th e whol e pu t i n to a sau toi r wi th,
, ,

sauce ; when servi ng s prin kl e wi t h parsley a cupful of m e l t e d b u t te r a season i n g of sal t ‘


, ,
,

dus t .
pepper an d nu tm eg pu t on t he l id and l e t , ,

P O T A T OE S C H AT E A U — Ol ive sh apes of po ta si m mer wi th an occasi on al s ti r til l qui te d on e ,

toes tu rned ou t wi th an oval scoop b l anched .


then rub th e wh ol e th rough t he t ami s ; add thi s
,

d raine d , fried a l igh t col or i n cl arifi e d bu t ter .


p u r e é t o a g allon of chic k en con som me b oi l ,

u p ski m p then add a pi n t of goo d c ream ; se rve


PO T AT O E S B AR I G O U LE — T ak e sm al l roun d
,

wi th c ro u ton s
n e w pota toes s team t il l barel y d on e th en
.

PO T A T O S O U P ( 5 ) — Prepare the pu re e as give n


, ,

pl unge i n to b Ol l n Oil til l brown ; se rve


sprin k led wi th sal t peppe r an d ta rragon vin e i n th e prece d ing a d d t o i t th e con som me ,
,

gar .
then fi n ish i t wi th asparagus poi n ts and g reen ,

P OT A T OE S B R ET O NN E C u t c ol d boil e d
s tringl ess bean s cu t i n diam on d shapes .

potatoes i n squares wi th a scal lop kn i fe sau té ,


P O T AT O SA L AD S — ( See sa l ads ) .

wi th a l i t tl e c hoppe d parsl ey then si m mer in ,


P O U L E T T E — T h e F ren ch n am e for a hen
B re tonn e sauce . ch icken h ence P OU L ETT E S A U CE i s made
,

POT AT OE S B R AB AN T —C u t l i k e for B re f ro m chicken bro th as foll ows : H al f a cup of ,

ton n e sau t ee d wi t h m i nc e d s h allo t and parsley


, .
me l ted bu t ter fl ou r a d ded to for m a roux , ,

PO T A T O E S B I G N O N N E —Scoop ball s ou t of m oi s tened wi th on e q uar t of goo d chicken bro th


raw pota toe s wi th l arges t si ze d scoop tak e th e ,
( s train e d ) seasone d wi th sal t red pepper and
, ,

cen t re ou t wi th a col um n cu t ter bl anch d rain nu t meg b rough t to the boi l a n d skim me d ; then
,
, , ,

fi l l cen t res wi th forcem ea t th en ba k e til l d on e i s wor k e d i n a l iaison of egg yolk s a n d c ream ,


,

a n d b ro wn wi th bu t ter .
fi n i she d wi th a l i t tl e l emon j uice and ch opped
parsl ey
PO T AT OE S B R A B A N CON N E — D ry mash some
.

s teame d peel ed p o ta toes m i x i n some m ince d PR AI R I E C H I CKEN —I s bes t cooked i n three


,

pa rboile d on ion s a l i t tl e ch opped parsley a n d way s R O AS T E D B R OI LE D and i n a S AL


, ,
,

Parmesan cheese wi th a l i t tle c ream sauce MI S . T o roas t i t fi rs t pluc k sin ge d ra w a n d , , ,


, ,

bake i n pape r c ases .


wipe clean truss i t wi th sl ices of bacon tie d ,

ove r th e breas t roas t i t ra re ; serve wi th the


POTAT OE S AN G L A I S E — ( I ) Scoop balls ou t ,

grav y f ro m th e roas ting s trained i n to a sauce


of raw potatoes wi th a ve ry l a rge scoop p ar ,
B igara d e ; s e rve garn i shed wi th wa terc ress .

boi l wi th a l i t tl e sal t an d v in ega r i n th e wa ter ,


T o broil i t pl uc k an d sin ge Y OU N G b i r d s
ta k e ou t d rain then fry til l d on e and b rown i n
, ,
, ,

spl i t down the bac k remov e the breas t bon e ,


roas t mea t d ri pp in gs ( 2 ) R a w pota toes peel e d .
,

,
t russ ou t fi a t sea son wi th Ol i ve o i l sal t and
tri mm e d q uar te re d s tea m e d ; serve d wi th
,
, ,

,
pepper pl ac e be t w een a wire h inge d broile r ;
m ai tre d h fite l sauc e ove r them
’ ,

b ro il ra re don e ; serve on t oas t wi th m ai tre


.

POT A T O S OU P ( r ) —O ne poun d Of m ashed '


d h Ot e l sauce poure d ove r garn i sh w i th c ress ,
.

po t a to e s r u b b e d th rough th e tam is a d d ed to , For sal mi s si m me r the cooked j oin ts i n ,


T H E C U L INARY H AN D B O O K . 1 45

M ade i ra sauce ; ser v e garn ished wi th mush ac tl y th e same way subs ti tu ting po tatoes for ,

room s s ton ed ol ives an d fanc y c ro u ton s O r


, . ar t ichokes .

si m me r i n B igarade sauc e ; serve wi th sl iced P U R E E O F C AR R O T S —Young carro ts peeled


oranges and fan cy c ro u ton s I n H U N TE R S .

a n d sl iced wi th a Sara toga cu t ter place them ,

S T Y L E i s to roas t th e bi rd s rare cu t in j oin ts , , i n a sau toi r wi th bu t te r a n d a season in g of sal t ,

then si m mer in sauce C hasseu r ; serve g arn n u tmeg and sugar place on th e l id a n d l e t si m ,

i s h e d wi th fancy c r o d to n s A n othe r n ice way .


mer to a l igh t b rown col or then add a l i t tle ,

t o serv e the bi rd i s to tak e c ol d roas t b i r d s , good wh i te s toc k and si m mer d own to a glaze , ,

j oin t them tri m th e j oin ts to a win g shape di p


, , rub th rough th e tam i s and use as requi re d .

i n s auce R ich e l i eu rol l in fresh g ra ted b rea d ,


PU R E E O F C E LE R Y C el ery cu t up s ma l l ,

cru mbs th en d ip i n bea ten eg g an d again ro l l


,
bl anche d for fi ve min u tes d rained placed i n , ,

i n th e breadcrumbs arra n ge them i n a wel l ,


sau toi r wi th bu t ter season wi th sal t sugar an d , ,
bu t tered pan sprinkl e th e tops wi th mel ted
,
nu tmeg m oisten wi th a li t tl e wh i te s tock a n d
, ,

b u t te r place i n ov en a n d l e t com e to a n ice


, ,
si mmer till sof t ; when sof t an d th e s tock t e
b rown colo r wi th t h e bu t ter fro th in g on them ;
,
d u c e d a d d a l i t tl e B échamel sauce rub th e
, ,

se rve a t onc e w i th sauce R ichel ieu .


whol e th rough a tamis a n d use as re q ui red .

PR O VE N C AL E Nam e o f a splen d id sauce ; also PU R E E O F PEA S — Shelled green peas wi th a


appl ie d to the S ou thern F re nch s tyl e of coo k bunch each o f m in t an d parsley an d a fe w
i ng Fo r th e sauce ( see sauces )
. .
spring on ion s boiled ten d er d raine d pounded
P UFF S — Forms of h ol lo w pas try ( see fri t ters )
, , ,

.
ta k en up in to a sau toi r seasoned wi th sal t an d
PU MPK I N —Na me of a l arge vegetabl e frui t of
,

a l i t tl e th ic k whi te sauce then rub th rough the ,

the melon species grows on v in es th e young , , tam is for use .

sh oo t l eaves of wh ich m ake a m os t spl endid P U R E E O F C H E S T N UT S — Sl i t l arge ches t


subs ti tu te for spi n ach in th e sum me r m on ths n u ts an d s team them for t wen ty m i nu tes then
B AKED P U M PKI N —Sl ices o f peeled pumpki n
,

remove th e hus k s a n d b ro wn sk in pu t th e ,

arrange d i n bu t te red pan season ed wi th sal t ,


.
cleaned nu t s i n a sau toi r an d m ois ten wi th a
moi sten ed wi th roas t m ea t gravy baked and , l i t tl e c on somm é a n d si mme r til l so f t and the
basted t ill don e served as a vege table , Also .
con so mmé r e duce d to gl aze the n poun d them ; ,

n o t peele d bu t bake d plain i n sl ice s an d serve d


, season wi th sal t nu t meg a n d sugar a d d a l i t
, ,

l ik e baked po ta toes A lso s l ice s o f peele d .


tl e c ream sauce then rub th rough the tami s ,

pumpki n s teamed for ten m inu tes then p laced


, , fo r u se .

i n bu t te red pan season e d wi th sal t a n d peppe r


,
.
P U R E E O F S PI N A C H —Wash the spin ach free
sprinkled wi th Parmesan cheese b aked till , from san d bl anch i t then ta k e u p and l e t i t
, ,

d on e an d gla zy then served a t on ce , .


d rain well n o w chop i t ve ry fin e t hen pound
P U M P K I N PU R E E — S l ices of p ee l ed pu mpkin
, ,

, i t ; pl ace i n a sau toi r season wi th sal t sugar , ,

s team ed till d on e then rubb ed th rough the , a n d n u t meg add a l i t tle whi te sauce reduce
, ,

tamis seasone d wi th sal t an d n u tmeg fi n ished


, , rapi d l y to preserve i ts color add a l i t tl e bu t te r ,

wi th a l i t tl e c rea m and bu t ter ; se rved as a and a p iec e of glaze t hen rub through the ,

vege tab l e .
t ami s for u se .

P UM PK I N P I E — The pu mpki n sliced pee l ed , , PU R E E OF ASPA R AG US — Take the green par ts


s tea med and rubb ed through the t am i s m i xed , of asparagu s wash free from san d p l ace i n a
, ,

wi th a ric h custar d fl avored wi th ci nnamon , sau toi r wi th so me spring on ion s and a bunch of
and rose water baked i n cus tard pie pan s li ned
, parsl ey boi l i n sal ted wa te r til l asparagu s is
,

wi th pu ff pas te .
t ender th en d rain all re turn to an othe r sau toi r
, , ,

PRES E R VED P U M PKI N R I ND The th ick season wi th sal t sugar an d n u tmeg ad d a l i t tl e


, ,

cu t ri nd of the pu mp k i n may be preserve d i n bu t ter an d som e whi te sauce al so som e wh i te ,

exac tl y the same way as m elon r i n d ( s e e melon ) . g r a ted brea d crumb s re d uce rapi d l y fi n ish wi th , ,

P U R E E — N am e appli ed i n cooke ry to vege tables ,


a l i t t l e green col orin g p aste and a smal l piece
e tc fi rs t coo k ed then rubbed th rough a fi ne
.
,
o f gla ze then rub th rough th e tam i s for use
, .

sieve ; use d as a basis to soups also as a garn ,


P U R E E O F T OM A T OES — In to a sautoi r pu t
ish to en trees I wil l here append th e princi
. some bu t ter l ean raw h am minced sh a l lots a
, , ,

pal purées i n genera l use . fe w whol e peppe rs mace an d cl oves t wo or , ,

PUR E E O F ART IC H OKE S —Peel and sl ice th ree b ay l eaves an d a fe w sprigs of thy me ,

J erusal em ar tichokes p l ace them i n a sau toi r ,


f ry toge ther to a golden color then add ei ther ,

wi t h bu t ter an d a season ing of pepper sa l t an d ,


f resh o r can ned toma toe s w i th a l i t t l e V é l o u té
nu tme g m oi s ten wi th a l i t tle whi te s tock boil
, ,
sauce reduce rapidl y ti l l thick add a season ing
, ,

til l don e an d the bro th reduce d then add som e ,


of sal t an d sugar wi th a piece of gl a ze and a ,

crea m reduce and mash til l l ike mash ed pota


,
pa t of bu t ter then rub th rough th e tam i s for use
, .

toes add a pa t o f b u t te r then rub th rough th e


, , P U R E E OF O N I ON S — S liced on ion s blanc hed
tami s P U R E E O F POTAT O E S made e x
.
fo r fi ve m inu tes then d rained placed i n a sau toi r ,
1 46 T H E C U LINA RY H AN DB O O K .

wi th bu t ter season ed wi th sa l t sugar a n d n u t


, ,
j uice in t o th e ke t t l e bri n g to th e boi l a ci d the , ,

meg mois tene d wi th a very l i t tl e whi te s tock


, , sugar sti r till i t i s d issolved then boi l rapi d ly
, , ,

sim mered till so f t a n d th e b ro th re d uce d t o ( s k im m in g the wh il e ) till i t j ellies ( a b ou t twen ty


glaze then a d d som e th ic k whi te sauce re d uce
, ,
fi ve min u tes ) then roll the j ell y glasses in boil
,

rapidl y then r u b thro u gh the tamis f o r use


,
. in g wa ter a n d pou r i n the boiling j ell y S tan d
, .

P U R E E OF SEAKAL E — S eakale cu t sm al l an d asi d e f o r twen ty fou r hou rs u n tl l se t fi rm then -


,

bl anche d then d raine d place d in a sau toi r wi th


, ,
sc re w on th e l i d s Keep i n a cool d ar k place . .

bu tter and a l i t tl e whi te stock season wi th sal t , , Q U IN CE MA R M AL AD E — Peel core a n d slice ,

suga r a n d n u tm eg S i mmer t il l soft then a d d . , the f rui t b oil wi th j us t e n ough wa ter to cover
,

some thick wh i te sauce re d uce rapi d ly t il l , them s ti rri n g a n d m ash in g th em ti ll so f t ; whe n


,

th ick then rub th rough th e tam is for use


,
. re d uce d to a paste all ow eleven ounces o f ,

PU R E E O F M U S H R O O M S —C a n ned bu t ton gr a n ula te d suga r t o each pou n d o f f rui t boil ,

mush room s d r ain e d chopp e d fi ne plac e d i n a , ,


t we l ve min u t es s t irring constan tl y ; remove ,

sau toi r wi th bu t ter a n d al l owe d to f r y to a l i g h t f rom fire a l low to co o l th en fi ll i n t o ja r s f o r use


, , .

st raw color th en i s a d d e d th e j uic e o f a lem on


, , ST EWED R AB B I T G E R M AN S T YLE — Young ,

a n d a goo d crea m sauc e m a d e wi th cream a n d rabbi ts cu t i n si x pieces t h e t wo legs breas ts , ,

t h e l i q u o r fro m t h e can n e d mush room s ; sea an d shoul d e r s a n d the bac k cu t in halves ;


,

s o n e d wi th sal t peppe r an d n u tm e g r e d uce, ,


w ash w el l d rain then steep th e m f o r a fe w
, ,

rapi d ly then rub th rough th e tami s f o r u se


,
. h ours i n v i n e ga r con taining th y m e carro ts and ,

PU R E E O F LI M A B E AN S — Fresh g r e en l i m a on ion s sl ice d ; when rea d y ta k e th e n i e c e s rol l , ,

bean s boile d fo r a f e w min ute s wi th som e the m i n fl o ur a n d f r y l igh tl y i n bu t ter pu t ,

spri n g on ion s and a bunch o f pa rsl ey al so a f e w ,


them i n a sau toi r when frie d ; n o w f r y some
sprigs o f ch ives d raine d pl ace d i n a sau toi r , ,
pieces o f s a l t por k i n t h e rem ain ing bu tter a d d ,

wi t h bu tter a n d a small bunch O f s a vory sea ,


them to t h e rabbi t wi th som e flou r sha k e to , ,

s o n e d wi th sal t sugar a n d a l i t tl e wh i te sauce


, ,
gethe r m ois ten wi th s toc k si m mer and ski m ;
, ,

si mmere d till very ten d er then a d d a piece o f ,


the n a d d som e bu t to n on ion s a l i t tl e thyme ,

gl aze a n d a l i t tle g reen col orin g paste rub a n d eno u gh O f the vinegar they were s teepe d i n
,

th ro u gh th e tam i s for use .


to give a sh arp fl avo r si m mer ti ll ten d er and ,

Q U AI L — Pluc k a n d singe th e quail spl i t down serve .

F R I C A SSEE O F R AB B I T — Legs backs a n d


,

th e bac k remove the b reas t bon e season wi t h


, , ,

sal t brush wi th bu t ter b roil d on e t o a go l d e n


, ,
sh oul d e rs o f youn g ra b b i ts washe d a n d wi ped ,

brown ; spre a d t h e trail on bu t tere d to a s t pop ,


d r y then ligh tl y f r y wi th bu t te r t ill the flesh
,

i t i n t h e oven a f e w min u tes d u ri n g t h e broil i s fi rm ; ta k e u p i n t o a sau to i r a d d som e ,

in g place th e b i r d on th e toas t br u sh ove r w i t h


, ,
flou r m ois ten wi th wh i te s tock si m mer a n d
, ,

bu t te r garn ish wi th a l i t tle cress a n d se n d t o


,
s k im ; wh e n abo u t h al f don e a d d som e bu t ton ,

table .
o n i on s a n d m ushrooms al so a glass of w hi te ,

R OA S T Q UA I L — Pluc k a n d si n ge t h e bir d ,
win e ; when a b ou t fi n i she d th ic k en the sauce ,

d raw i t re t u rn th e liver t ru ss ; run h al f a


, ,
wi th a l ia ison o f egg yolk s a n d c ream season ,

d ozen on a l o n g s t e el s k ewe r ; p lace ac r c s s a wi th n u tm e g sal t r e d pepper a n d th e j uice o f


, ,

bakin g pan l e t tin g the en d s o f th e skewe r res t


,
a le mon .

on th e e d ge Of t h e pan ; sprin k l e wi th sal t , P O T T E D R AB B I T — Legs shoul d ers a n d backs ,

d re d ge wi th mel te d bu t ter roas t ; serve on toas t , o f young rabbi ts remove the bon es f rom each ,

garn i shed w i th a li t tl e c ress Sauc e Perigueux .


, j oin t then pl ace t h e pieces i n in d ivi d ual j ars
,

or a Fi n anc iere garn ish m a y b e serve d wi th i t ,


( l i k e bean j a rs ) wi th d ice d bacon and mush
bu t i s f a r fro m bein g essen tial . room s T a k e the bon es a n d h ea d poun d them
. , ,

Q UA HA U G —O r q u a h og O n e o f the cl am species .
,
boi l the m wi th carro t cel ery on ion s an d a li t , ,

t he ten d e r par t onl y sh oul d be u se d ; i n e very tl e thym e th ic k en i t sl igh tly s t rain a n d cove r
, , ,

way o f coo k in g appl ica b l e t o oyste rs an d d am s th e m ea t i n t h e j a rs w i th i t pu t on th e l i d s , ,

Q U I N C E H O NEY Five l arge qui n ce s gra t e d -


an d ba k e sl owl y t il l tender ; serve i n th e j ars .

on e p in t o f wa te r fi v e poun d s o f gr a n ula te d ,
B R AI SED RAB B I T WI T H T O M A T O S AU C E
sugar b oi l th e s u gar a n d wa te r a d d th e g rate d
, ,
— Legs a n d bac k s o f you n g rabbi ts l ar d the m ,

q uinces boil fi f teen mi n u tes pou r in to glasses


, , ,
wi th seaso n e d strip s o f bacon pl ace i n a b ras ,

allow to cool be f ore cove ri n g .


iere wi th bacon O n ion s car ro ts a n d a bun ch o f , ,

Q U IN C E ] E L LY — VV i p e b u t d o n o t peel t h e thym e moisten wi th wh i te s tock a n d a gl ass o f


,
,

frui t ; sl ice i t a n d remove al l see d s Pu t t he m .


wh i te win e b rai se t il l ten d e r a n d then remove
,
,

i n a porcel ain l in e d k e t tl e a n d b arel y cove r to an o the r sau toi r ; s tra in t h e brai se boil up , ,

wi th col d wa ter pu t o n th e l id an d boi l sl owl y , ,


s k i m th en a d d i t t o a t h ic k tomato sauce ;
,

till very ten d e r then pou r al l in to a flannel j e l l y


,
s e rve i t over th e rabbi t garn ishe d wi th f ancy ,

bag a n d l e t d rai n wi thou t squee z in g T o e a ch c ro flt o n s


—T ake the
.
.

p i n t o f juice al l ow on e p ou n d of sugar pu t th e ,
B R O I LE D S AD D LE OF R ABBIT
1 48 THE C U L I N A RY H AN DB O O K .

mois ten ed w i th a b rown I tal i an sauce ; served tion pieces season wi th sa l t and pe ppe r r o l l i n
, ,

on toas t wi th or wi th ou t a t ri mm e d poached flou r sau té th e m a d el ica te b rown color wi th


,

egg . pl en ty Of mel ted bu t ter ; wh en don e take u p ,

C U R R I E D RAB B IT W IT H R I C E —Legs sad ,


and d rai n sprinkle th e sur f ace wi th fi nely
,

d les and shoulde rs o f rabb i ts l igh tly f rie d wi th mi nced parsley ; serve wi th Parisienn e po ta toes
m inced on ion s i n bu t te r then taken u p i n to a ,
an d ei th er l obs te r G en oise Aurora C ard in al , , , ,

sau toi r sprin kled w i th cu rr y pow d er and flou r C hambord o r N orman d e sauces ,
.

B R OIL E D —C l ean and scal e


, ,

m oistened wi th whi te s tock si mmer e d til l , R E D SN AP P E R ,

d on e ; se rve d wi th rice . the fi sh spl i t d own the back and remove th e


,

RAS PBE RR I E S —A d e l icious frui t u sed ch iefly sides free f rom bones season wi th sal t a n d ,

as a t ab l e frui t bein g picked ove r th en served , ,


peppe r b rush wi th mel ted bu t ter pass i t
, ,

wi th c ream M a d e i n to puddings ch arlot tes


.
, ,
th rough flour p l ace be t ween the wi re h i n ge d
,

ices c ream s m ering ue s tar ts j ell ies t r i fle s


, , , , , ,
b roile r broil till d on e well basting wi th bu tte r
, ,

e tc b y th e pastry cooks ; in to sy rup for flav o r


.
,
d urin g coo k in g ; serve garn i shed wi th ch ip or
a D O el

ing ; al so u se d as a d rin k i n sum mer for cool in g j ul i en n e po tatoes and e i th er M i tre H t, ,

the blood kn own as R A SPBE R R Y VIN E G A R ; G en oise B earnai se E s c h al o t e or N an tais s


, , ,

made b y ta k in g equal m easu re men t of rasp sauces .

berries an d v in egar and s teeping the m for a , R E D SN AP P E R STU FF E D — Clean t ri m and , ,

wee k then s train in g o ff th e l iquor allowi n g a


, , scal e th e fi sh ; o u t from th e bell y pa r t deep
pound o f g ran ul a ted sugar t o e ach p in t o f j uice ; en ough a t si d es O f bone so as to wi t h draw i t
i t i s boile d sk im med a n d bo t tle d for use
,
. wi thou t cu t tin g the skin of th e back ; s tu ff wi th
R AV I OLE S —Are essen t iall y poached rissoles or a fi s h forcemea t then se w th e open ing score, ,

r i s s o l e tt e s ; th ey ar e ma d e up f rom any k in d o f the sid es bak e wi th s l ices of sa l t pork ; serve


,

c roque t te m i x ture rol led u p th e si z e and sh ape ,


i n por tion s garn ished wi th D uchesse po ta toes
of an egg then sl i g h tl y fl a t tened and l ai d on a
, ,
a n d tom a t o sauce .

smal l square piece O f N O OD L E or S H O R T R H U B A R B C OM PO T E Youn g rhubarb cu t i n -

pas te the four e nd s b rough t over the top to a


, fi nger l eng th s place d i n enameled pan covere d
,

cen tre an d sl igh tly p ressed t oge ther ; they a re w i th cold wa ter s l owl y b rough t to th e scal d i n g
,

then poached in wh i te s tock f or si x or seven ( n o t boil ing ) poin t then d rain M easure th e ,
.

m in u te s d rain ed place d on th e ser v i n g d ish ;


, , scalded water and a d d to i t a pound of sugar
,

an appropri ate sauce to th e c roque t te mix ture to each pi n t boil toge t h e r till Of a thi n syrupy
,

i s poure d over th e m then sprink led wi th g ra ted , n ature then pou r over the rhubarb
,
.

Parmesan cheese .
R H U B AR B P I E —Li n e th e sides of pi e di sh wi th
R AVIG OT E —Name given to a sauce made wi th , shor t pas te cu t the rhubarb i n to half inch
,

plen t y of mel ted bu t ter fl ou r to form a roux , , th ic k pieces sprinkle well wi th sugar a l i t tle
, ,

m ois ten ed wi th good wh i te s tock seasone d wi th , gra te d nu t meg a n d l emon rind j us t a l i t tle ,

sal t peppe r and n u tmeg and con tain ing plen ty


, , wa ter cove r wi th sh or t pas te egg wash the
, ,

of chopped chives che rvil tar ragon bu rn e t , , , top bak e an d serve .

R H U B AR B WI T H C U STARD —C u t the rhu


,

and parsley Also a col d sauce wh ich i s


.
,

m ayon naise con tai n in g fi n e l y m in ced c hives , barb in to fi nger l eng ths place i t i n an en am ,

sh al lo t tarragon parsl ey an d cherv il


, ,
.
e l ed pan a d d ing sugar an d a fe w s trips of
,

R E D S N A P P E R B O I LE D — C lean and sca l e th e


, can died lemon peel a li t tle wa te r p l ace th e pan , ,

fi sh pl ace i n th e fi sh k e t tle cover i t wi th h ot


, , i n a sl ow oven a n d le t si m mer til l don e wi thou t
water a d d ing sal t a n d a l i t tle vinegar si m
, ,
break ing th e fru i t ; serve wi th a spoon ful to
m er t i ll d on e ( f rom h al f to on e hou r accor d in g each por tion of th in boiled custard fl avored ,

to si ze ) th en raise an d d rain ; serve in por tion s


, wi th van illa .

g arn ished wi th H o l l andaise pota toes an d ei ther R H UB A R B ] AM—Wash the young rhubarb and
caper m ate l o te Allemande Admi ra l dip l o
, , , ,
cu t i n to p ieces abou t an inch l on g d o n o t peel ,

mate or V e n i t i e n n e sauces .
i t weigh an d to e ach pound all ow th ree quar t -
,

R E D SN AP P E R B AK E D — C l ean and scal e th e


,

, ers of a pound of granul a ted sugar boil i n a ,

fi sh spl i t i t d o wn the b ack and l i f t o ff th e t wo


,
porcel ain l in ed ke t tle b r ingin g sl owl y to the ,

sides f ree fro m bon e s ; l ay th ese sk in si d e down boil th en boil and s ti r con ti n ual l y for for ty fiv e
,
-

i n a bu t tere d p an season w i th sal t a n d pepper , , m in u tes fil l i n to M ason j ars screwing the l ids
, ,

pl ace i n Oven til l se t then b rush l iberally wi th , on tigh t .

m el ted bu t ter ; b ak e d on e an d b rown bastin g ,


R H U B A RB J E L LY—Wash the youn g rhubarb
well wi th b u t ter d u ring th e cook ing ; serve i n an d cu t i t in to inch l en g ths pu t th e cu t f ru i t ,

por tion s wi th a quar ter of a l em on and a rich ,


i n to a s ton e c roc k pu t on th e l id stand i t i n ,
,

tomato sauce made w i th c our t boui ll on -


.
th e bain mari e a n d hea t sl ow l y t ill the frui t i s
,

R E D SN AP PE R S AU T E — Prepare th e fi lle ts as , sof t ; n ow pu t a s mal l q u an ti t y a t a ti m e i n to


in th e preced ing recipe then cu t them i n por , y our j e l ly bag and squeeze ou t al l th e j uice
,
.
T H E C U L I NA RY H A NDB O O K .
up
Measure ju ice
d to each pin t a l l o w on e
t he , an turn i t ou t in to a bu t tered pan smoo th i t well , ,

poun d of granul ate d sugar T urn the j uice i h . place a shee t of bu tte re d pape r ove r i t on tha t ,

to a porce l ain lined ke t tl e an d stan d ove r a , a boar d wi th a weigh t ; when thoroughl y col d ,

brisk fi re Pu t th e sugar in to e a r t h e r n d ishes


. s tam p ou t wi th a biscui t cu t ter d ou b le b rea d , ,

a n d stan d i n th e ov e n to hea t B oi l th e j uice . then fry th em d rain scoop ou t the cen t res a n d
, ,

rapi d ly and con tinuou s l y for twen ty min u tes , u se th e sh el l for th e recep ti o n O f salpi c on s ,

then tu rn in the s u gar qu ickly st i rring all th e , m ac ed oin es of frui t o r vege tables e tc , .

wh i l e til l the sugar i s d i ssolved D i p j ell y .


R I C H I L I E U— Nam e of a garn ish ( see g arn ish es ) .

t u mblers in to h o t wate r wa tch th e l iqu i d care ,


R IS S OLE S — An o th er form o f savory c roque t te
full y an d as soon as i t comes t o th e boil take
, ,
bu t ins tead of bein g b readed and f rie d th e ,

i t from the fi re and fi l l the gl asses .


c ro q ue t te m i x tu re i s div i d e d in to even si ze d
R H U B ARB F RITT E R S — Tak e p ieces of th e piece s and laid on a shee t of pie paste c o v
, ,

rhubarb from th e c o m p Ot e of a p rece d i n g ered wi th anothe r s h e e t ( t h i n ) t h e n s tampe d ou t ,

recipe d ip i n frying ba t ter fry in d eep h o t


, , , wi th a flu ted bi scu i t cu t ter then fried l i k e cro ,

la r d d rain dust powdered s u gar over ; serv e


, , q u e t t e s in d eep hot lard .

wi t h ru m sauce .
R I S SO LE T T E S — S ame as r issol es bu t made
RH UB A R B M E R ING U E — Wash youn g rhu
,

m uch s mall er an d used for garn ish in g .

barb th en cu t i t i n to inch l en g ths ; fi l l a pie


,
R OE —T h e eggs of fi sh those ch iefly used bein g ,

d ish wi th th e rhubarb sugare d al tern atel y wi th ,


t a k en from t he sha d c o d fis h carp an d m ul le t .
, ,

sl ices of s tale spon ge ca k e ; b a k e in a m odera te R eci pes w i ll b e found un d e r thei r respec t ive .

oven abou t hal f a n h our th en cover wi th a ,


hea d ings .

m eringue sprin kled wi th co l ored sugar ; re turn


R O LY P OLY — Nam e app l i e d to pudd ings made
to oven and bake til l of a l igh t fawn col or .

f rom a swee t b iscui t d ough ro l le d ou t th in


RIC E — To b oi l i t p roper l y so as to h ave i t i n
, ,

then spread wi th chopped frui t cur ran ts sul , ,


~

g rain s when cook e d in s tead of pas ty : T ake a tan as e tc th en roll ed up tie d i n a clo th
, .
, , ,

l arge saucepan con tain in g pl en ty of boil ing plunged in to boil in g wa ter an d boile d ; o r else ,

wa ter wi th a l i ttl e sa l t then sp r in k l e i n the , place d i n a cak e o r brea d ti n and s team ed til l
rice le t i t boi l up then shif t i t to a c ooler pa r t
, , don e ; served i n sl ices wi th sauce appropria te .

of the range where i t will j ust si m m er d o n o t ,


R O M A N P U N C H — T o l emon wa te r ice when
s ti r i t bu t le t i t swel l i tse l f tender then turn i t
, ,
nearly frozen i s a d d ed ] a m a ic a ru m b randy , ,

i n to a co l an d er pl ace th e colande r i n the ,


an d sher ry win e i n equal par ts and en ough ,

saucepan take i t to the sink and th oroughl y


, meri ngu e t o wh i ten i t then fi n i sh the free z in g ; ,

wash i t clear wi th runn i n g col d wa ter then ,


serve d i n punch glasses wi th the din n er .

a l l ow to d rain d ry the n pu t th e drain ed rice ,


R O Q U E FORT— N ame of a French cheese ( see
in to a recep tac l e of the bain marie pu t on th e ,
cheese )
cove r a n d le t th e boil in g wat er su rroun d i n g i t
R OU L AD E — N ame given to savory ro l ls of s teak
,

rehea t the R ice cook e d as above i s .

good to serv e wi th cu rries c o m pOte s as a , ,


T ake th i n s tea k s spread wi th a forcem ea t roll
, ,

b reak f as t cereal wi th cream a n d suga r e t c , .


up tie th e en d s wi th t win e arrange the m i n a
, ,

Also m i xed wi th a l i t tl e b u t ter pl en ty of ,


sau to i r w i th som e bacon fat b rown them then , ,

t om a to sauc e and Par mesan ch eese i t forms a d d a l i t tl e fl our moi s ten wi th s tock , then le t ,

R i s s o to added to con som m es i t does n o t


.
th e m si m mer i n th e g ravy til l ten d er take up , ,

cloud th e soup m ixed wi th whea t flour . ,


se rve wi th th e twin e removed an d garn ish ed ,

bak ing powde r sugar an d mi l k for maki n g rice


,
w i th vege tables mush room s e tc , ,
.

m u fli n s .
R O U X — Th e nam e given to an e q ua l m i x tu re of
R I CE C ROQ U E TT E S — We ll washed rice boiled bu t ter an d flour used t o thic k en sauces a n d ,

til l sof t i n m i l k wi th a season ing of s u gar a ,


soups T ake th e sau toi r plac e i n th e bu t te r ;
. ,

s tick of c innamon an d th e pee l of a l e m on ; ,


wh en mel te d a d d th e fl ou r an d s ti r t il l thor
,

when don e re mov e th e lem on and sp ice a d d a ,


ough l y smoo th an d hea ted th en moi sten wi th ,

piece of bu t ter then wo rk i n a l i aison o f egg


,
th e s tock m il k e tc
,
I f for a b r own sauce o r
, .

yolks ; turn ou t i n to a b u t tered pan a l l ow t o ,


s o u p a l l o w the roux to brown before m oi s ten ing
,
.

becom e cold t hen form in to cakes wi th a d e


, R OYAL C U S T ARD S— Name appl ied t o a com
p ressed cen t re bread and fry th em drain , , , b in a t ion of eggs and a l iquid ei the r plai n o r i n
sprinkle wi th powd ered sugar ; when send ing to conj unc tion wi th a sol i d ; u sed to d ecorat e
tabl e fi l l th e depression wi th p r e s e r v e a n d f soups an d al so wi th garn ishes ; a l so fo r garn
,

pour a van ill a or wine sauce around the base .


i s h i n g galan tines e tc Yol k s a n d wh i tes o f
, .

C R OU S TAD E S O F R IC E —We ll washed r ice eggs separa ted s tirre d to amalgam ate ( mus t
,

boil ed til l sof t i n whi te s tock ; when d one ,


n o t be bea ten l igh t ) wi th a l i t tl e m il k or s tock ,

season wi th sal t bu t te r and nu tmeg th en wh ip , ,


then pou red i n to a bu t tere d basin o r tin c o v ,

i t cr eamy a dd in g some Parmesan che ese N ow


, .
e red wi th a sh ee t of oi l ed pape r and p l aced i n ,
1 50 T H E C U L IN A R Y H AN D B O OK .

th e steame r w h e re they m u s t be gra d ual ly d ecorated wi th capers ; ga rn ished wi th aspar a


s teame d til l se t ; t hey are then remove d a n d gus poin ts d ippe d i n French d ressing .

all o w e d to becom e col d ; they m a y then be cu t B EA N S ALA D —T a k e the French bean s bough t ,

i n sl ices a n d a f ter war d s in to al l sor ts o f f ancy i n c an s an d cal le d H arico ts Ve r ts Wash "


.

shapes for th e pu rpose r e qu i re d I n to the eggs an d d rai n t h e m then mois ten wi th French
.
,

may also be m ixe d a m ace d oin e o f vegetables d ressi n g a n d s en d to tabl e i n on e of th e num ,

choppe d tru ffl e s choppe d m ushroom s force , e r o u s shape d c roustade cases pl ace d on a lea f
,
,

mea t l obster coral gre e n peas choppe d chervil


, , o f le t tuce , ( 2 ) F resh g r e e n l i m a bean s boile d
, .

parsl ey ch ives t arr a go n e tc ; a n d when r e


, , ten d e r d raine d m i xed w i th c ream d ressin g ;
,
.
, ,

q uire d for ga rn is h i n g whol e pieces they afte r serve d garn i she d wi th c ress , .

being mixe d wi th wha tever sol i d i s use d shoul d B EE T R O O T AND P O T A T O S AL AD —Cu t ou t ,

be fil l e d i n to small t i mbale mol d s so tha t they of col d boiled be e tr o o ts s mall ball s ; th e sa me


c a n b e turn e d ou t an d use d whole si ze ball s al so to be cu t ou t of raw peele d p o ta
.

R Y E — N am e o f a cereal used i n d i stilli n g for , toes ; then s t e ame d t ill d one ; when coole d place ,

whi s k y g roun d in to fl ou r for m ak ing rye bread


.
the po ta toes i n a R avigo te sauce th e b e e t b a l l s
,
,

mu ffi n s ba t ter cakes m us h e tc
, ,
i n tarragon v in e gar ; d ish the m u p al te r n a tely
,
.
.

S ALAD S B EE T AN D E G G S ALAD — Large bee troo ts


.

ALL IG A T O R PE A R — I t i s ei ther eat e n raw wi t h boil ed a n d coole d t h en wi th th e larges t si ze d ,


-

sal t a n d pepper ; or sl ice d a n d d re s se d w i th col umn cu t te r s tam p o u t cor k l i k e piece s ; these


F renc h d re ssing ; serve d on a bed o f sh red d e d sl ice also d o th e sam e wi th s teame d wh i tes a n d ,

en d ive .
y ol k s o f eggs Place som e grate d horsera d i sh .

AN C H OVY SA L AD — ( I ) Sh re d d ed fi lle ts of d own the cen tre o f the d i sh on i t p l ace a l te r ,

sal te d anchovie s garn is h e d w i th smal l w h i te


,
h atel y a sm al l whi te pic k le d on ion and a caper ;

pic k le d on ion s cape rs an d sl ice d ha r d boile d


, ,
su r roun d th e h orsera d ish w i th th e yellow
e ggs ; sprinkl e a l i t tl e tarr a gon v inegar ove r the sl ices an d th ose wi th the al tern a te sl ices o f bee t ,

an chov ies Sh re d de d l e ttuce a n d shr e d d ed and w h i te egg ; serve wi th cream d ressing aside .

anch ov ies a f e w m ince d sh al l ots al l m i xe d to C A B B AG E S AL AD — Cu t som e bacon i n to d ice


, ,
,

ge th e r d r y ; then mois t en e d wi t h equal q uan ti f r y ; wh en d on e a d d a cup o f v inegar a cup of , ,

ties O f ol ive oi l a n d c a pe r v in egar th oroughl y water season wi th sal t a n d pepper b ring al l , ,

bea ten toge t her .


t o th e boil pour over very fi n ely sh red cab ,

A R T IC H O KE S A LAD — ( I ) A r ticho k e bo t tom s bage se t a way to ge t c ol d then se rve , (2 ) -


, .

an d me d iu m si z e d on i on s b o th coo k e d a n d F in ely shre d w h i te cabb a ge season ed wi th.


,

cool e d then sl ice d a n d d i s h e d al tern a tely ;


,
sal t peppe r oil vin ega r a n d a li ttl e suga r , , ,

garn ishe d wi th smal l balls o f c ooke d bee troo t ( 3 ) T a k e a fi rm green a n d a fi rm red cabbage ,

an d carrots ; serv e d spri n k le d w i th ei the r quar te r them soa k in sal ted wa ter f o r an hou r , ,

F rench o r a c rea m d ressing ( 2 ) C oo k ed a r ti then stea


.
m th e m till ten d e r t a k e ou t an d cool ,

cho k e bo t tom s s k in n e d r a w toma to e s ; sl ice


,
w h en col d sh re d the m very fi n el y arrange , ,

b o th a n d arrange al tern atel y on t h e serv ing th e m on t h e s erv ing d ish al te rn ately two ro ws
.
,

d ish spr inkl e w i th fi nel y chop pe d che rvi l th e n Of each pl aci n g be twee n each cen tre row some ,
, ,

wi th a Fren ch d ressi n g ( 3 ) H ear ts o f le t tuce .


sala d c r e a m d ressin g con tain ing chopped che r
fi n el y sh r e d ; ar t ichok e b o t tom s cooke d a n d vil and shallots .

cool e d then sh re d ; mixe d then moi s tened w i th C A UL I FL OWE R S AL AD — ( I ) C ooked cauli


, ,

F rench d ressing a n d se rve d flowe r i n flo we r e t s i n cen tre of d i sh maske d


. ,

— w i th m ayonna i se garn ishe d wi th a m ace d oin e


ASPA R AG U S SA LAD ( I ) T wo inch l en gth s o f ,

of coo k e d v e ge tabl e s d ressed w i th F rench


coo k e d aspar a gu s w i th t h e h ea d ; serve d on l e t
d ressi n g ( 2) Fl owe re t s o f c oo k e d cauli
t u c e l eaves th e poin ts pi pe d wi t h crea m d ress
,

flowe r i a cen tre of d ish maske d wi th a sauce


in g o r m a yonna i se ( 2 ) C oo k e d asparagus
.

R e m c u l a d e ; ga n i she d wi th fancy c u t strips of r


h eads ; ra w s k in ne d sl iced tom a t o es Plac e
, , .

t h e aspa ragu s i n the cen t re of th e d ish garn i sh


cooked a n d pic k l e d bee troo t .

wi th th e toma toes ; serve wi th m a yon n aise C ELE R Y SA L AD t h e w h i te ce l ery i n r

( 3 ) Fl o were ts o f coo e caul i flow e r i n cen tre of


k d t wo i nc h l e n g t h s l i k e m a t che s or m acaron i ;

d ish maske d wi th cream d ressi n g ; garn ish e d s e rv e d resse d wi th m a yon naise ( 2 ) VV l l i t e


wi th aspar a gus poin ts moistene d wi th F rench cel er y cu t i n d ice m ixe d w i th L i v o u r n a i s e ,

d ressi n g d eco rate wi th capers Fla k es of sauc e ; s e rve d garn i s h e d wi th sl ices of s t u fl e d


, (4)
cook e d sal mon d i ppe d i n a th in R avigote sauce ol ives .


,

pl aced ove rl appi g e ch oth e r d own cen tre of


n a C H I C O R Y SA LAD S h r e d c h icory ( en d ive ) t WC ,

th e d ish ; ga rn ished wi th aspar agus poin ts th e par ts sh red celery one p ar t m i xe d d resse d
, , , , ,

ti ps of wh ich should be pi ped wi th may onnaise a n d serve d wi th F renc h d ressin g .


.

( 5 ) Can n e d sal mon d raine d : 3 S poon ful i n C O D F IS H S ALAD —Sal t e nd w e l l soaked a n d


cen t re of d i sh masked wi th a m ayonn aise and boile d i n t wo sepa rate wa t e rs co o l e d R ake) .
,
1 52 T H E CU LI NA R Y H A N DB O OK .

Rh in e wine sa l ad oi l pepper an d tarragon F ren ch d re ssi n g a n d garn i s h e d w i th pe e l e d d


, ,

vi negar .
sl ice d toma toes p iped wi th a R e moul a d e sauce , .

G E R M AN P O T AT O S AL AD — S lice d c ol d boiled ( 5 ) Sh red le t tuce tossed wi th R e moula d e


'

pota toes mince d parsley f rie d d iced bacon


,
sauce and m inced capers ; serve d garn ishe d wi th
,

peele d and s l ice d tomatoes spraye d wi th F rench


( wi th i ts fa t thrown over the potatoes ) p epper d ressing
, ,

sal t the wh ol e well m ixed wi th c ream sala d


.

,
L I M A B EAN S ALAD — Fresh green l i ma bean s
d ressing .

— boi le d d raine d cooled moi stene d w i t h a c r e a m


G AME S ALAD An y kind Of cold roas t game , , ,

sal ad d ressin g ; serve d garn i shed wi th wa ter


sk inn e d a n d cu t i n to d ice m i xe d wi th sh redde d ,

l e t tuce sh re d d e d cooked carrots and a fe w raw


c ress spraye d wi th caper vi negar .

T E R S AL AD — T wo par ts of d iced l obster


,

m inced shal lots season the whole wi th Tar tare ,


L OB S
sauce ; serve g arn i shed wi th sl ices o f pickle d m ea t to on e p ar t of fi n e cu t cel ery seasone d ,

wi th s a l t p e pp e r and tarragon vinegar place d on


b e e t r c o t c h oppe d eggs a n d smal l bal l s of bu t
,
, ,

pl at te r a n d maske d wi th mayonn ai se ; garnishe d


ter and pounded wa tercress ( 2 ) Cold roast .

game s k inn ed and sl ice d mois tene d wi th F rench wi


,
th sl ices O f har d boil e d eggs a n d sh re d ded

d ressing an d allowed to m arina e for th ree d le t tuce ( 2 ) E qua l p ar ts of d iced l obs


. ter
hours arrange th en on the serving plat ter
,
mea t and d iced co l d boiled potatoes mixed ,
, _

garn ished wi th sh re d d e d l e t tuce the whol e wi th cream sal ad d ressing ; served wi th cubes
,

then sprinkle d over wi th choppe d wh i tes o f egg of steamed wh i tes an d yol k s o f eggs al terna tely

a n d the yolks tha t have been rubbed through a


as a garn i sh ( 3 ) S l ices of l obs ter mea t .

d ippe d i n M on tpel ier bu t te r ar range d down th e


S t e ve

HE R R IN G S AL AD —Sh re d de d bon eless sal ted


.

cen t re of pl a t ter ; served garn ished wi th al ter


h er rings a n d sar d el l es m ixed wi th th in sl ice d ,
n ate tuft s of waterc ress ; sliced egg wi th yol k t e
col d boiled po tatoes sl iced d il l pic k les a n d ,
moved a n d i t s p l ace fi l led wi th l obs ter coral ;

gh erkin s c apers chopped chives an d sh red d ed ,


sl iced cucumber and s mal l rings of on ion the , ,
,

le ttuce ; pl ace d on th e se rv ing pl a t te r and in terior of th e r in g fi lled wi th caviare ( 4) .

mas k ed wi th a thi n m ayonnai se ; garn ish wi th S hred d ed l e t tuce and lobs ter mea t seasone d ,

wi th Oi l sal t peppe r an d tarragon v in egar


fi l l e t e d anchovies and sl ices or s trips of pickled , , ,

be e troo t placed on pl a t ter a n d m asked wi th m ayonnai se


( 2 ) B lanched sm oked h erring
.
,
,

sk inn ed spl i t bon e d cu t u p small m i xed wi th ,


decorated wi th capers sl iced s tu ff ed ol ives , ,
, , ,

choppe d eggs m inced on ion th in sl iced col d l obs te r coral quar tere d eggs and watercress , ,
, ,

boile d potatoes a n d choppe d parsley seasoned ( also the sma l l c l aws ) ,


.

wi th French dressing garnished wi th pic k le d M A CE D OIN E S AL AD — Ou t of sl ices of cooked


,

b e e t r c o t and capers . C r r o t wh i te a n d yello w turn ip and bo t toms


o
, ,

I T AL I AN S A LAD — D iced fow l m i xe d i n cream of ar tichok es s tamp f ancy shapes add t o th em , ,

salad d ressing ; serve d wi thi n a bor d er o f pic k ed cooked g reen peas a n d asparagus tips al so ,

watercress and hear ts o f l e t tuce ; garni sh wi th fi nel y cu t s tringl ess bean s m i x all toge the r ; ,

sl ices of eggs yolks removed i ts pl ace fi lle d,


serve on l e t tuce l eaves wi th French d ressi ng
,
,

wi th a sl ice of bee troo t and a few capers


.
.


I TALIAN S AL AD C ooked green peas t wo O YS T E R S AL AD — Oysters scald ed and washed ,

fi f ths smal l d ice d cooked c ar ro t on e fi f th


,
cool ed served on l e t tuce leaf wi th Tar tar sauce -
,
,
.

d ice d coo k ed wh i te turn i p one fi f t h sm al l c u t ( 2 ) Equal quan ti ties of whi te cele ry and
-
,

cooke d s t ringl ess beans on e fi f th al l m i xed to cabbage m inced together and bl an che d then
-
,
,

ge ther Th en i n to a F rench d ressin g m ix som e


.
coole d ; oys ters scal ded wi th thei r own l iquor to ,

chopped ch ervil t arragon a n d ch i ves ; m ois ten ,


which i s a d d ed a l i t t l e vi n egar a n d s a l t then ,

th e vege tables wi th th i s mix tu re a n d serve d raine d a n d cool e d ; season th e cel e ry and cab
,

garnish ed wi th sl ices O f col d boile d pota toes bage wi th a l i t tl e Oi l a n d wh i te vi n ega r pl ace ,

and p ickl ed bee troot .


i t i n cen tre o f d i sh d i p the oys ters i n m ayon ,

— n aise and su rround the cen tre


KAL E S AL AD T h e smal l insid e l eaves of kal e
.

f ou r fif th s p icked a n d wash ed wa terc ress on e


-
,
O N I O N S AL AD — T ake ei ther th e B erm uda o r
fi f t h m ixed an d serve d wi th F rench d ressing
,
S pan ish on i on pee l them sl ice in r i ngs on e .
, ,

LE T T U C E S ALAD —B road sh red l e ttuce l eaves


quar ter inch th ick s tea m th e m til l h al f done , ,

then l e t th e m become v ery c o l d ; serve on l e t


,

sprinkle d wi th sal t a n d peppe r then sprayed wi th ,

t u c e l eaves wi th Ravigo te sauce


m ixed Ol ive Oi l a n d tarragon v i negar
.

( 2 ) Well
,
.

OY S T E R PLAN T S ALAD — C o l d b oiled oyste r


wash e d a n d d rai ne d l e t tuce l eaves fi n ely sh red
a n d served wi th F rench d ressin g plan t cu t i n fi nger l en g th s ; when very col d
( 3 ) B road . , ,

sh red l e t tuce l eaves and fi n el y sh re d spring season th em wi th sal t a n d pepper d i p th e en d s ,

k i n R avigote sauce a rran ge on f anc y s tri ps of


,
d
on ion s sprin le wi th sal t a d pepper thenn ,

c ool e d toast ( l i k e asparagus ) a n d garn ish Wi th


,

spraye d wi th m i xe d ol iv e oi l a n d tarragon v in
egar . ( 4 ) Finel y sh re d l e t tuce season ed wi th aspic j el ly .
T HE C U L I NAR Y H ANDB O O K . 1 53

O K R A S AL AD — Okras blanched d rained and , wi th sal t and pepper to taste then mois ten wi th ,

qua r tere d ; served on a b e d o f shred d e d en d ive ; on e par t of v i negar t o th ree par ts o f ol ive O il ;
pou r ove r F rench d ressin g con tain in g chopped serve on a b e d o f sh re d ded l e t tuce and garn ish
c h ives an d chervil . wi th eggs .

PA R T R ID G E S ALAD —C o l d trimme d j oi n ts of S ALS IFY S AL AD —C old boile d salsi f y mi xed ,

roas t pa r tri d ge m arin ade d i n tarragon vin egar


,
wi th Fren ch d ressin g i n cen tre of dish garn , ,

i s h e d wi th smal l ball s of s teame d po tatoes


a n d ol ive o il ( O n e i n t wo a d d sal t pepper
.
, ,

mince d ch ives and che rvil ) ; serve on a bed of moi s tene d wi th c ream d ressing .

sh re d d e d l e t tuce pou r th e marin ad e over , , S C OT C H S AL AD —T wo par ts of dice d ce l ery to


garn i sh wi th sl ice d eggs c ape rs a n d gher k in s ,
.
on e par t of fl akes of cooked sal mon ; season wi th
( 2 ) C ol d roas t par tridge cu t i n d ice m arin , Oi l
, sal t a n d v inegar ; serve on l e t tuce mas k ,

a d e d fo r t wo h ou rs i n French d ressin g d rai n , wi th m ayon n ai se garn i sh wi th s l iced egg and ,

i t th e n m i x t h e par tridge wi th a n equ al


, s tu ff e d ol ive s .

am ou n t O f d iced w hi te c el ery ; p l ace th e salad S H R I MP S ALAD — Sh rimps m arin aded i n oil


on a l ea f of le t tuce m as k wi th a m ayon naise , ,
an d v inegar d raine d m i xed wi th shre d ded
, ,
garn i sh wi th m inced pickl e and chopped capers .

celery i n inch l engths dressed wi th mayon


P OT A T O S AL AD — Cold boil ed po ta toe s sl iced
,

,
n aise garn i shed wi th s toned ol ives capers
, , ,

l i t tl e m inced on ion a n d chopped parsl ey m i xed ,


h ar d boile d eggs a n d coi led shri mps .

a n d season ed w i t h sal t pepper o i l an d v ine , ,


S PAN I S H S ALAD — Peeled toma toes sl ice d and
gar ) S l ices o f col d b oiled po ta toes sh re d
.
( 2 ,
arrange d on d ish wi th pick l ed smal l wh i te
d e d sal t anchov i es C hoppe d p arsley peppe r , , ,
on ion s mayon n aise i n cen tre ( 2 ) S hre d d ed
sal t F rench m us tard tarragon v i negar an d
, ,
, .

endive garn i sh ed wi th quar te red peeled tom a


c ream sal ad d ressin g al l m i xed toge ther and ,
toes an d quar tered eggs yol k re move d and i ts
served on l e t tuc e ( 3 ) S l iced th in col d b oi l ed
,
.

pot a toes thoroughl y m i xed wi th F renc h d ress place fi lled wi th sh ri mp pas te The end ive to .

,
be spri n k l e d wi t h m ince d swee t peppers and
i n g add ing a l i t tle m ore v i negar
, ( 4 ) Sl iced .

sh all ots Oi l sal t peppe r and vinegar


c old boi led po ta toes sl ice d on i on chopped , , , .

S O UT H E R N S A L AD — Take tender ok ras tri m


, ,

parsley fried bacon i n dice wi th i ts fat sal t


, , ,
,

pepper an d c rea m sal ad d ressi n g al l m ixed ,


the ends boi l til l ten d er drain l e t become
, , ,

toge ther and served o n l e t tuce ( 5 ) B all s of .


ver y cold D ip some swee t peppers i n ho t fa t
.

po ta toes scooped from peel e d raw on es s teamed a n d tak e o ff th e sk in s then fi nel y sh re d them ,
,

till don e then cooled m ois ten ed wi th Hollan


, ,
l i k e ma tches m i x the m wi th the ok ras and
,

d ai se s auce ; se rved o n l e t tuce an d sp rin k le d serve wi th m a y on naise ( 2 ) B oi l till d on e


wi th fi nel y ch opped ch ives a n d chervil .
some green peppe rs l e t the m become ve ry cold , ,

R O M AI N E S ALAD — B road shredded R omain e then sh red the m l ike ma tches and serve wi th
l e t tuce l eaves sp rin k l ed w i th sal t peppe r oi l
, , ,
F rench d ressin g .

and tar ragon v in egar . S WE D I S H S ALAD — Cu t in to d ice an e q ua l


R U SS IAN S ALAD — C ooked sa l ad of carro ts ~
,
q uan ti ty of c old m ea t boi led po tatoes green , ,

par sn i ps an d b eet roo t s cu t i n shapes ; p ieces o f appl es pickled herrin g an d sal ted anchovies
, ,

fowl and shre d de d a n c h o v i e s m i x e d together a n d ,


m i x I n to i t some c hoppe d gher k in s cape rs and ,

seasoned wi th combin ed oil vin egar a n d F rench ,


h ard boiled eggs m i x all ; serve on l e t tuce wi th
,

mus tard ; served garn ish ed wi th ol i ves and French d ressing a n d garn ish wi th s tone d olives .

cav iar .
( 2 ) C ooked h am smok ed t o n gu e r o a s t , , S WEETB READ S ALAD —Sl ices of cooked swee t
beef ch ic k en and m u t ton c u t i n d ice sh red d e d
, , b read d i pped i n flou r fri ed wi th bu t te r then , ,

sal t anch ov ies ; season an d m i x wi th Tar tar cooled an d tri mmed ; sh re d ded l e t tuce i n cen tre
s au c e ; s e r v e wi th in a border o f sh re d d e d le t tuce - .
of di sh wi th sal ad c ream d ressing ; s wee tbreads
RAD IS H S AL AD — T ake roun d red and whi te mask ed wi th m ayon n aise arranged around the ,

ra d ishes thoroughl y cl ean them then cu t i n


, , l e t tuce ; garn i sh wi th s l ices of radi shes and
h alves arrange t h e h alves al terna tel y s k i n
, , bee t roo t .

si d e up on a b e d of shredde d l e t tuce sp rinkl e


, ,
T AR T A R E S ALAD — Sh redded l e t tuce pic k l ed ,
wi th F rench d ressin g and garn i sh wi th s tu fle d cucu mbers p ickled on i on s an d pi c k led h er
,

ol ives .
ring ; sl ice th e cucumbe rs and cu t the he rring
S A R D I N E S ALAD — H ard boi l ed eggs an d boi l ed i n d ice m i x toge ther season wi th a l i t tl e O i l
, ,

onion s i n sl ices sar d in es i n fi lle ts d i shed up i n


, , a n d v inegar a n d fi nish
, wi th Tar tare sauce
al tern ate l ayers sprinkle d wi th F rench d ress
, serve on l e t tuce .

i ng con tain ing ch opped parsley ch ives and ,


T O M A T O S ALAD — S liced pee l ed tomatoes mar
cherv i l .
i n a d e d in F rench d ressing d raine d sprinkle d , ,

S ALM O N S ALAD —E qua l quan ti ties of cooked wi th sa l t an d pepper ( 2 ) Sl ice d peeled to


b ee t an d raw ce l ery m ince d then m ixed to , ma toes sp rin kled wi th Parmesan cheese moi s
g e ther ; boiled sal mon i n fl akes a d ded ; season tened wi th R hine win e and o l ive oi l .
t s4 T H E C U LINA RY H AN D B OOK .

VE A L S AL AD é — b rown surface wi thou t f u r the r co oking the i n “


'

E qua l quan ti ties o f coo k e d veal


a n d boile d pota toes cu t i n d ice wi th some wh i te te r i o r .

cel ery ; season e d wi th sal t pepper a n d c ream S AL M I — SALM I S —T hese two wor d s each sig

sala d d ressing ; served on l et tuce ga rnishe d , n i f y a form o f s te w a n d sel d om are they p rop ,

wi th eggs .
erl y u se d I t i s al ways appl ied to game
.
.

WA T E R C R E S S SA LAD —C risp cl e a ne d a n d , S A L M I S i s u se d when the s te w i s made from


p icked watercress season e d wi th sal t pepper , , col d coo k ed gam e th a t h as been l e f t ove r f rom
and vinegar . a previou s meal S ALM I i s a s tew m a d e f rom .

C O M B I N A T I ON S AL AD S — Sl ice s o f cold boiled f resh cooke d g ame speciall y roaste d a t the ti me


po ta toes B russel s sprou ts boile d a n d coole d
, , requ ired to ma k e t he s te w for the comin g m eal .

flo w e r e t s o f boiled cauliflower a n d sh re d d e d , S AL LY L U N N —N ame appl i ed t o a l igh t swee t


celer y ar ran ged n ea tl y i n sala d bowl wi th
, yeas t rai se d tea ca k e ; se rve d spl i t a n d bu t tere d ,

F rench d ressing ( 2 ) Sh re d l e t tuce en dive


. , , fresh a n d h o t .

sl ice d toma toes sprin g on i on s a n d ra d i shes,


.
S A L M ON B OI LED I f s mal l boi l who l e ; i f
, ,

tosse d l igh tl y toge ther wi th F rench dressing .


l a rge cu t i n t wo or th ree Pu t to boi l in boil .

( 3 ) S l ices o f po ta toes ev e n i n si ze sl ices o f ,


in g sal te d wa ter l ay in g th e fi sh on a d rainer , ,

t ru ffles a n d m in ce d shal lots d ressed wi th o il , boil 3 m in u te rai se t h e d rain e r l e t the wate r


, ,

a n d c ape r vin egar ( 4 ) Yol k s o f eggs rubbe d.


boil very rapi d l y then pl unge fi sh a n d d rainer ,

th roug h a si e v e ch oppe d e g g whi tes gh er k in s


, , ,
i n again then repea t the ope ra tion a n d allo w
,

ch erv i l an d soy m i xe d wi t h a l i t tl e d ressin g


, to boil til l d one B y th i s m e tho d the albu men .

compose d of F re n ch mu s t a r d essence of a n , of th e fi sh coagula tes a n d th e flesh ea ts muc h


c h ovie s pepper a n d wh i te w in e v inegar garn
, ,
be t ter S e rve wi th pla i n m el ted bu t ter H ol
.
,

i s h e d wi th sl ice d pota t oes bee troo t a n d celery ,


.

l an d ai se All eman d e cape r B éch amel fenn el


, , , , ,

F R E N C H D R E S S I N G — F ou r par ts of ol ive oi l crea m or bu t ter pa rsl ey sauce .

t o on e par t O f vinegar wh i te or tarragon a l i t , ,


S AL M ON B AKED — T h e fi sh sh oul d be sm all
, .

tl e on ion j uice fin el y ch oppe d parsley sal t a n d


, ,
Scale t ri m wash a n d d r y i t turn the th in flap
, , ,

peppe r .
of the bel l y in war d s a n d t ie i t wi th thin twine ;
C R E AM D R E S S IN G — O n e cup each of wh i te cove r the fi sh then w i th a fi sh forcemea t ; bake
v i n egar and mel te d bu t te r on e desser t spoon o f ,
and baste t ill d on e ; serve i n por tion s wi th
d r y m us tar d one t ea s poon o f p ap rika eigh t
, ,
G enoi se o r P erigueux sauces .

yol k s of eggs on e quar t of w h ipp ing c ream


,
.
S AL M O N B R OILED — Scale t ri m wash a n d
, , ,

B oi l th e vi negar bu t te r an d season i n gs t o , d r y th e fi sh then cu t i n equal ly th ic k slices


, ,

ge the r ; pou r i t th en t o th e beate n yol k s s ti r , season wi th cayenn e peppe r a n d sal t d i p i n ,

over th e range till l i k e cus tard remove a n d , O l ive O il roll up i n O i le d paper tuc k i n th e en d s
, ,

c ool th en wh i p the cre am a n d bea t i t i n to the


, a n d pin wi th a too th pic k plun ge i n to h o t f a t ,

dressi n g . a n d coo k f o r 7 to I O m in u tes accor d in g t o th e

H O L L AN D AI S E D R E S SI NG On e pin t of thic k n ess then raise the frying bask e t l e t i t


, ,

whi te v inegar one quar t of m il k one cup o f Oi l ,


d rai n for a min u te ; the n pu t th e cu tl e t s till in ,
,

or mel ted bu t ter on e bas tin g spoon fu l O f d r y t h e paper on the b roiler broil till n icel y
, ,
,

mus ta r d on e t easpoon of r e d peppe r on e


, ,
mar k e d remov e the paper p l ace on dish ; serve
, ,

tabl espoon ful o f pap rika t we l ve eggs sal t to , ,


wi th T a r ta r G en evoise fi n e h e r b s or m ai t re
, ,
~

d h Ote l sauces or wi th anchovy or M on tpel ie r


tas te B oi l the v inegar w i th th e season ings ;


.

m ean wh il e separa te th e yol k s a n d wh i tes a n d ,


bu tter .

bea t th em separa tel y ; brin g the m il k to t h e b oi 1 SA L M O N STE AK S O R C U T L E T S — B oil the m


a n d pou r i t to th e yol k s then add the boil i n g ,
in boil ing season e d whi te fi sh s toc k til l d on e
vinegar s ti r on the ran ge t il l i t j us t th icken s
,
a n d se rve wi th l obste r oys te r c ucu mber Or , ,

l i k e cus tar d ( d o n o t l e t i t boi l o r i t wil l cu r d l e ) . s u p r em e sauces S au té th e m wi th clear b ut te r


.

When of th e cus tar d con si s tency rem ove f rom ,


a d el ica te b rown a n d s erve wi th Aurora M ilan ,

the fi re and bea t i n the wh ippe d whi tes wi th aise V é l o u t é gher k in piquan te o r ravigote
, , , ,

the m el ted bu t ter or oil then pu t away to coo l ,


sauces .

fo r use . S AL M O N ( C O LD B O ILED ) — M ay be serve d ,

SALAM AN DE R — N ame given to a heate d i ron wi th sl iced cucu mb e rs T ar tar ravigo te o r , ,

pl ate use d f o r q uic k l y b rown ing t h e gra tin a te d may on n aise s auces .

surface of cer tai n d i sh es o f e scall oped foods ,


SAL M O N C R O Q U E T T E S —T a k e fla k es of col d
e tc I n some k i tch en s the d ish i s pl ace d on the
.
boile d sal mon a n d sh re d the m season wi th r e d ,

ashes und er th e h o t bars O f th e gra te ; i n o thers peppe r a n d sal t al so a dash each of anch ovy ,

a small shovel is m ad e h o t Wh e re th ere i s a . a n d H arve y sauces T h en mi x th e fi sh wi t h .

gas oven wi th a top coo k ing sur f ac e t h e d ish on e th i r d o f i ts bul k o f fresh mash e d po tato e s ;
-

may be pl ace d un d e r th e grill Al l ten d to the .


t u rn on t o a d ish s moo th i t o v e r allow to b e , ,

same pu rpose tha t of quic k ly ob tai n ing a ,


come col d then shape pieces of the m i x t u re
,
1 56 T H E C U L IN A R Y H AN D B O O K .

bea ten yolks of eggs ; when l i k e cus tard r e , c ro q ue t tes roas t capon ome l e t of chicken l iv
, ,

move f ro m the fi re th en bea t i n mel ted bu t te r ,


e rs and q uen elles of tu rkey
, .

a t the ra te o f t h ree tabl espoon s t o th e p in t , B RET ON N E S AU CE H O T —I n to some E s pa g ,

work i n t h e j u i c e o f a l em on 3 l i t t l e c ay enn e , .
n o l e work a pure e o f fri ed on ions fi n ish wi th
, ,

pepper then s t rain and fi n i sh w i th som e fi n e l y


, chopped parsl ey U sed wi th r oas t mu t ton .
,

c h opped pa rsl ey an d ta rragon U se d for .


b raised sa d d le of mu t ton cu tle t s o f m u t ton , ,

broiled s te ak s roa s t fi ll e t of bee f broile d, , braised ox cheek a n d g ren adin s of por k , .

swee tbread s lamb f ri es vea l an d l am b cu tl e ts


, ,
.
B R E T ON N E S AU CE C OL D —A spoonful each
B E Y R O U T S A U CE —Fe tch to th e boi l on e and a
,

of mus tard an d sugar wi th t wo spoon f ul s Of ,

hal f poun d s of b u t te r wi th t wo m inc e d mediu m grated horseradi sh worked in to a h alf pin t of ,

si zed on ions a b as tin g spoon f ul of tarragon v i ne


, tarragon v in egar Used wi th col d roas t o r .

gar an d th e same o f com mon v in egar a h al f pin t , brai sed mu t ton beef ox tongue roas t pork , , , ,

of E spagnol e a h alf cupfu l each o f mush room


, etc .

ca tsup an d H arvey sauce ; si m mer sk i m then , ,


C APE R S A U CE — In to a good bu t ter o r V é l o u té
boi l ti l l c ream y re move from th e fi re fi n ish , ,
sauce work in some whol e capers a n d a l i t tle
,

wi th a l i t tl e suga r an d anch ovy essence U sed .


tarragon vin egar U sed wi th b oi led mu t ton .
,
wi th col d fi sh a n d fi sh salad s .
b oiled fresh ox tongue a n d boiled pigs fee t .

B IGA R AD E S AU C E Take e q ua l q uan ti tie s of C APE R S AU C E F O R F I S H —M ake a whi te


-

game an d E spagnol e sauces a n d work i n th e ,


roux moi s ten i t wi th a l igh t con som mé season
, ,

j uice an d gra ted r in d of S evill e o r o ther b i t te r i t wi th cayenne grate d n u t meg essence o f , ,

orange U sed for b raised fi ll e t of beef s tewed


. ,
anchovies l emon j uice an d capers wi th a dash
, , ,

duc k fried duckl ing roas t d uck


, , .
of cape r vin egar U sed wi th broil ed sal mon
B OH E M I A N S A U CE — Make some pan ad a wi th
.

s teak b roile d c arp baked c o d fis h boiled r e d


, , ,

ch icken o r veal b ro th a n d work i n to i t some , mulle t boiled pi k e boiled sheephead boiled


, , ,

gra te d h orseradish and a l i t tl e bu t ter (A .


r e d sn apper boi l ed shad and braised sal mon
, ,

w hi te bread sauce u se d wi th r oas t par tridge ) , .


trou t
B O U E R G O I S E SA U C E —I n to a pin t of th in
.

C A R R O T S A U CE In to some V é l o u té sauce
E spag nole work a spoon f u l each o f choppe d
, work a pure e o f young carrots V ery good for .

parsley che rvil t a r r a ga n m ea t gl a z e F rench


, , , , boiled beef .

m us tard an d suga r b rin g i t t o a s i m m e r then , ,


C A R D I N AL S AU CE — I n to a good V él o u té sauce
add the j uice of a l e mon U sed wi th f or ce mea t .
work some l o b ster bu tte r a l i t tl e anchovy e s ,

balls ; i n garn ish in g f ricandeau s O f v eal ca r ,


sence l e mon j uice cayen n e essence Of mush
, , ,

b o n a d e s o f mu t ton rou lade o f veal sau t é o f , ,


rooms and lobster roe or sh ri mps rubbed
, , ,

pigs fee t ( bonel ess ) and b rai sed ox hear t , .


th rough a tami s U sed wi th boiled chic k en
B O U R G I G N O T T E S A U CE — In to some E s pa g
.

and capon boud in s of l obste r paupie t tes of


, ,

n ol e work some m i n ced fri e d on ion s sliced


, , sol es ragou t of mul le ts fi lle ts of perch s tu ff ed
, , ,

t r u fli e s a n d m ush room s fi n i sh wi th so m e B u r , a n d braised carp and pike boiled s al m o n fi l l e t s , ,

gun d y wine Use d wi th b raised s m al l g am e


.
o f turbo t and ha l ibu t fi lle ts of so l es and boiled ,

b ir d s b rai sed carp whol e ca rp s t e w ed i n red


, , s turgeon .

C A UL IFL OWE R S AU C E —I n to a goo d bu t ter


win e fried cu tl e t s of s turgeon mu t to n c u tl e t s
,

sau tee s fi lle ts of pigeon s sau tee s .
,
sauce work some smal l flo w e r e ts o f whi te cauli
B O R D E LAI S E S AU C E WH I T E — I n to a rich ,
flo wer Ve ry good for boiled poul try
. .

bu tte r sauce wor k som e m ince d fri e d sh all o ts


WH IT E — In to some l igh t
,
C ELE R Y S AU C E
chopped parsl ey an d whi te win e U se d wi th .
,

matel o te of eels p aupie t tes o f sol es b o i l e d Alle man d e sauce work a pure e of ce l ery G oo d .

, ,

mac k erel c ri mped c u tle t s of pi ke b oiled h al i wi th boi l ed turkey an d wh i te en tre es of turkey


, ,

bu t turbo t .
wings .

B O R D ELAI S E S A U C E B R O WN — In to som e ,
C E LERY S AU CE B R OWN — In to a good thick ,

E spagnole work som e m inced f ri ed shal l o ts


, ,
ened roas t pou l t ry gravy wor k i n some fi n ely
and garl ic r e d win e c ayen n e p e p p e r ch op p e d
, , ,
c u t cel ery and si mme r i t til l don e Very good .

parsley l emon j uice a n d sl ices o f b eef m a rro w


,
wi th roas t poul try and d ry b rown en tre es of , ,

Used wi th b roile d s teak s a n d al m os t an y b rais e d poul try .

r e d mea t O mi t th e marro w an d a d d fi ll e ts C H A S SE U R S AUCE — I n to e q u a l par ts of E s



.

O f a nchovies and a l i t tle anchovy e s s e nce i t is ,


p ag n o l e an d to ma to sauces work som e m inced ,

then used wi th b raised fi sh also bak ed a n d , fried on ion s sliced mushrooms ch opped p ars , ,

b ro i led fi sh .
l ey an d l e mon j u ice U se d wi th mu tton cu t
B R E SSO I SE S A U CE —I n to some M a d ei ra sauc e
.

,
l e ts s a u t e é s sau t é of par t ri d ge veal c u tle ts
, , ,

work a p u r e é m a d e o f ch ic k en l i vers pan a d a , ,


roas t p rai rie ch icken roas t black game b rai se d , ,

fried mince d shal l o ts grat ed r ind and j uice o f , smal l game bi rd s v en i son s teak o u t l e t s of roe , ,

an orange U sed wi th roas t ch icken c h ic k en


.
,
buck roas t y oun g r abb i t l eg s of rabbi t sau t e
, . ,
TH E C U LI NARY H ANDB O OK . I S7

fil l e ts of h are o r j ackrabbi t and b raised l arded oil d rained then added to a thick v eal g ravy
, , , .

rib s of beef . G ood wi th roas t v eal .

CH AN T AU S E N S AUC E — A syrup sauce fla v C LA RE T S AU C E — A foam in g sauce of grated


o red wi th cloves cinnamon bay l eave s and l emon rind powdered ci n namon eggs sugar and
, ,
, , ,

Ch a n t a u s e n wi ne U sed fo r puddings and clare t wh ipped ove r a slo w fi r e to bo il ing


. ,

swee t en tre es poin t Used wi th puddings and s wee t en t re es . .


.

C H AT E A U B R I AND S AUC E —On e pin t of E 5 C O LB E RT S AUC E I n to a pi n t of Espagnol e ,

work i n a spoon fu l of mea t gl a ze a l i t tle cay


p a gn o l e a h alf pin t of mea t gl aze a h a l f pin t
,
, ,

of whi te wi n e si m me r s train then bea t i n a ,


enn e l e mon j uice and chopped pars l ey make
, ,
, ,

h a l f pin t of m ai t re d h Ot e l sauce U sed w i th v ery ho t bu t do n o t boi l th en v ery graduall y



.
, ,

b roile d steaks fi lle ts of beef ,


bea t i n a cupful of m el ted bu .
t te r U sed wi th .

broiled meats and mos t cu tl ets


C HA M B O R D S AU CE — I n to a pin t of V él o u té
.
,

work a hal f pi n t of wh i te mushroom p u r e é a C O URT -


B O U I L L ON S AUC E I n to a bu t ter
,

piece of ch icken glaz e a g l ass of sau terne and sauce th a t has been m a d e from the s tock of
, ,

a spoon ful of l obs ter b u t te r U sed wi th fille t s boiled fish add some rings .
of boiled on ion s and ,

of bass baked bass pike car p fi sh croque t tes chopped pars l ey U sed wi th boiled c o d fis h
.
.
,
, , , ,
boi l ed haddock braised eel s boiled r o c kfis h
C HAMPAG N E S AU C E —I n to a p in t of E s p ag
, , ,

boiled plaice boi l ed w e ak fi s h boi l ed re d s n a p , ,

nol e si m me r a half pin t each of sherry win e


,
per and boiled sal mon trou t .
,

and v inega r wi th a l i t t l e su g ar Good wi th


C R APA UD IN E S A U CE — Take e q ua l q uan ti ties
.

roas t ham .

of E spagnole and toma to sauces combi n e them


C H AD E A U S A U CE —A foam ing sauce of eigh t
, ,

then add so me m inced gh erkin s s h al l o ts c h i v e s , , ,

yol ks a n d t wo wh i tes Of eggs j uice of a l emon o l ive s an d capers a li t t l e mus tard tarragon, ,
, ,

hal f a pound of sugar a q uar t of Chabl i s v i ne gar m inced mush room s and a glass of
, ,
,

whipped over a sl ow fi re to boi l in g poin t Used sherry wine Used wi th b raised briske t Of .
.

for swee t en t re es .
beef broi l ed pork chops f rog l egs boiled ca l f s , ,
'

C H A UD F RO I D S AU C E —Take so me carcasses
,

head broi l ed pigeon s fried saddles of rabbi t , , ,


'
of roas t ga me o r pou l try and a bunch of m ixed ca l f s l ive r sau té b raise d fi l l e ts of hare broi l ed , ,

gar d en herb s cover wi th good s tock si m me r ,


opossum b raised tur tl e fi n s and veni son , , , .

for seve ral hours s train s k i m b oi l up again C R E OL E S A UC E —I n to a good toma to sauce


, , , ,

and add en ough ge l a tin e to m ake a brown work in some chopped blanched swee t peppers ,

j e l l ied g ravy Used wi th roast poul t ry . m inced fried shallo ts a l i t tl e M ad ei ra sauc e .


,

C H E R R Y S A U C E —S wee t bu t te r sauce con an d Mad ei ra win e U sed wi th scallops of fil le t


, ,
.

tain in g cherri es th a t h ave been s tewed wi t h of beef ragou t of beef ch icken sau té pork , , ,

po r t win e a n d suga r th en rubbed through a r i sso l es h oneycomb tripe cu t i n finger l eng th s


,
,

sieve U sed fo r swee t en tre es


.
an d s tewed down rich i n i t ca tfi sh steak sau té .
, ,

C H E VR E U I L S A UC E —I n to on e thi rd par t E s
tom a toes s tu ff ed wi th c rab mea t fried oys ters - , ,

ti mba l es of spagh e t ti boiled spaghe t t i wi th ,


n o l e sauce on e -
th i rd tom a to sauce and on e
p ga ,
minced ham m ade ho t i n i t broile d pork kid ,
thi rd s tock add a l i t tle th yme a bunch of pars
, ,
n eys and l amb fries pork tender l oin s fried ,
l ey t wo o r th ree bay l eaves some m inced fried ,
,
spareribs vea l chops sau te es ti mba l e of c a l f
,

shallo ts a spoon fu l of whi te pepper some tar , ,

ragon vin egar an d b u t te r ; reduce i t to one —


, ,
b rain s c ro q ue t tes of beef beef swee tbreads , ,
ha l f
s au te és m inced m u t ton cu t l e ts .

of i ts origi na l bul k s t r a in fin ish wi th cu rran t , ,


,

j e l ly H arvey sauce and por t win e Used wi th C R EVETT E S A UCE In to a c ardi n al


.
sa u ce
,

roebuck and ven i son roas ted fil l e te d b rai sed work some pieces of sh ri mps and an chovie s .
.

, , , ,
U sed wi th boiled cri mped c o d fi s h boiled p l aice
e tc .
,

and flo u n d e r s fi ll e t s of S pan ish mackere l


C H I L I S A U C E —Chop toge the r si x toma toes
, ,

boiled t rou t and Wh i tefi sh frie d soles ,


, .

C U C U M B E R S AU CE —I n to a g ood bu t ter sauce


fou r g reen peppers on e on ion add them to a , ,
,
pin t of wh i te wi n e vi negar wi th on e teaspoon
work a p u r e é of cucumbers o r some s l ices of
,

of sugar and a l i t t l e sal t si mm er fo r one h our


cucu mber fr ie d wi th bu t ter,
Good for boi l ed ,
.

s train bo t t l e Used as a table condi men t


sal mon and trou t
. .
,

C H I L I S AUC E —I n to a good B é cha me l sauce C U R RY S A UC E — I n to a V él o u té sauce ; boi l a


.

work some minced red peppers tom a toes sha l ~ ham knuckle for an hou r then remove and , ,
,

l ots an d m inced parsley fi n i sh wi th me l te d work in a l i aison of egg yolks beaten wi th cu rry


,

bu t te r catawb a wine and l i me j uice G ood


, powde r ; si m mer s trai n U se d wi th pork chops .
,
.
,

w i th vea l cu tle ts pork ten d e rl oins bon e l ess pork t ender l oin fried vea l chops and cu t l e ts
, ,
, ,

pigs fee t s te wed catfi sh l amb fries f r i c ad e l l e s


,
an d t ri pe , , , .

broil ed beef pa l a tes p ick l ed l amb tongues C Z A R I N A S A UC E —I n to some E spagnol e work


, .

C LA R E M ON T S A U C E —M i nced on i ons fri e d i n the j uice of a l emon some m inced g herkin s and ,
1 58 T H E C U LIN A RY HAN DB OOK .

see d less raisins boi l til l the frui t i s sof t then , veal a sh in of beef and l e t them fry brown , , ,

serve wi th boiled ox tongu e then add sl ices Of carro ts onion s turn ips cel
.
, , ,

C U R AC O A S AU CE—A bu t ter syrup sauce con e ry pars l ey thy me m arj ora m s avory b ay , , , , ,

tain ing cura c oa U se d w i th pu d d ings and so me . l eaves cl oves al lspice peppers ; when browned , , , ,

s wee t en t ree s i n th e fri t te r l i n e a d d su ffi c ien t fl ou r to f o rm a roux


. Le t the .

C U S T A R D S A UC E B oil in g m i l k or c ream fl ou r b rown al so T hen moisten gradual l y wi th


pou re d t o a n d w hipped i n to hal f a poun d of a rich cle ar b rown s tock ; boi l u p and ski m ,

sugar a n d si x bea ten eggs to each qu ar t o f m ilk ; then add p l en ty of tom a toes ; boil and s k i m
fl avore d as desi re d bu t gen erally wi th nu tme g again then a d d t wo or th ree c h ic k en s ( Ol d on es
, , ,

or van illa Use d wi th pu d d ings and swee t


.
use f ul for salad a f terwar d ) o r roast fowl car
en t re es .
casses ; sim mer sl owl y for several hou rs then ,

C R AN B E R RY S AU CE C ran b erries s tewed wi th s train o ff in to a cl ean sau toi r ; then a d d a ga l lon


-

s uga r til l so f t then rubbe d through a sieve ,


of con som m é a n d reduce rapi d l y t il l o f a good .
,

con sis te n cy ; strai n o ff again a n d fi n i sh wi th good


Used w i th roas t turkey .

sherry win e T h is i s on e of th e gran d s tock .

D IA B L E S A U CE Th ree t ab l espoonful s of
sauces wh ich for m th e basi s of mos t of the
mel te d bu t ter th ree of m ea t gl az e on e of ,
brown sauces u se d Y O U C AN N O T B E T O O
,
.

sugar h a l f a cupful o f mush room ca tsup and


,
PAR T I C U L A R I N I T S P R E PA R A T I ON ,

t he same of whi te wine j uice of a l emon an d ,


,

F O R I F T H E FI RS T P R O CE S S I S N O T
,

en ough cayen n e pepper to make i t as ho t as i ts


S U CC E S S F U L LY E FFEC T ED N O S UB
n ame i mpl ies ; th oroughly incorpora te wh il e ,

SE QUE N T C A R E WI LL R E M E D Y T H E
m ak in g i t ho t bu t d o n o t all ow i t t o boi l U se d .
,
M I S CH I E F .

wi th b roiled s teak s b roil e d k idn eys broiled



, ,

ham steak s b roiled l iv e l obste r b roil ed pork


,
F IN E H E R B S S AU C E S au t e togethe r wi th
,

chops a n d spareribs bu t ter so m e m ince d parsley shall o ts and mush


. ,

— rooms seaso n wi th a l i t tl e pepper a n d nu t meg ;


D IAB L E S AU C E Ano the r way of m akin g i s to ,

af ter abou t fi ve m inu tes pour o ff th e was te


take one thi rd s t ock and t wo th i r d s of good
- -
,

bu t te r an d add a l adl e of good E spagn ol e


E spagnol e and work in to th em som e W o r c e s
,
,

i f f o r brown o r a l ad l e of goo d V é l o u té sauc e


t e r s h i r e sauce cayen n e pepper a n d m a d e mus
,
,
i f for wh i te U se d wi th scall ops of m u t ton
tard th en si m me r an d s t rain
.
,
.
,
scallops o f hare a n d rabbi t fri ed reed and rice
D IPLO M AT E S AUC E —I n to a good B é ch ame l
,

bir d s sau té of soles b roo k trou t baked i n c ases , ,

sauce work some c rayfi sh bu t ter a n d a l i t tle


,
of pape r spread wi th th e sauce roulade of beef , ,

cour t bouill on
-
G oo d for m os t boiled wh i te .
s tu ffed calf s h ear t roul ad e O f veal vea l ch ops ’

, ,

fleshe d fi sh .
a n d cu tle ts b roiled s teaks brain s swee tbreads

D U C HE S S E S AU CE —In to a p in t of t oma to
, , , ,

l am b fries .

sauce work i n h al f a p i n t of l ean cooke d h am F E N N E L S A U CE —I n to a good bu t ter sauce ,

i n s mal l d ice h al f a c upful of wh i te w in e a,


wor k a spoon f u l of chopped fen ne l l eaves , .

l i t tl e gl aze brin g t o t he b oil r emove from t h e


,
Loo k s l ik e parsley sauce , U sed wi th boiled .

fi re a n d then b ea t i n a h al f pin t O f H ol landai se


,
m ackerel and boil ed sal m on .

sauce U sed wi th p ork vea l an d m u t ton ch ops


F INA N C I E R E S A U C E — In to a quar t of good
.
, .

pl ai n maca ron i V ien n a s teaks por k t enderl oin , ,


E spagnole work a l i t tle m ea t glaze cayenn e a
a n d spa reribs h am c roque t tes fri ed t ripe epi
, , ,
, , ,
hal f pin t of M ad eira w ine a hal f pin t of mush
gram m e o f swee tbread s b rai sed b reas t of v eal ,
,

roo m l iquo r or m ush roo m ca tsup and a f e w ,

rou l a d e of mu t t o n fried bon el ess pigs fee t ,


,

m inced m ush room s a n d tru ffles U sed w i th


b read ed r e c h a u fle of mu t ton fried c hicken
.

, ,
roas t o r b raised black gam e an d grouse
D U XE L L E S S A UC E —I n to a V é l o u té sauce
,
'

boudin s of game s a u te é d fi l le ts of fowl s ,


, ,

work som e wh i te wi n e m ince d m ush rooms l ar d ed a n d b r a i s e d l e g s o f f o w l s


, boned ,
, ,

gra te d ton gue a n d choppe d p arsley Or else s tu ff ed and braise d sa d d l e of l amb paupi ,

u se B é ch am el sauce a n d work i n m i nced pars e t t e s of ox pal a tes for h eatin g a sal m i s of ,

l ey sh al lo ts m ushroom s an d gra te d h am I t
, ,
par tri d ge fo r a fi ll in g t o ra i sed pies of .

i s used fo r coa tin g cu tle t s prior t o th ei r being game rabbi ts a n d quail s roas t ph easan t , , ,

b readed an d f r ie d .
bon ed s tu ff e d an d b rai sed q u ail s , ,

E G G S AU C E —I n to a bu t te r sauce work i n some l arde d a n d b rai se d fille ts Of rabb i ts , b rai sed ,

ch opped h ar d boil ed eggs a n d the j u ice o f a swee tbread s tur k ey s tu ff ed wi th veal force ,

l e mon U sefu l f o r al l kin d s of plain boiled


. mea t an d roasted veal ch op s l ar d ed an d
fi sh . braised l ar d e d and braised f ri can d eau of ,

E S PAG N OL E S AU CE —T wo pound s O f good veal l arded an d b rai sed woodc ock s ,


.

coo k ing bu t te r place d i n the bot tom of a l arge F LE M I S H S A UC E I n to a bu t t er sauce ,

sau toi r ; i n to i t then pl ace ch opped i n good wor k a l i t tl e g ra ted n u t m eg Ch opped p arsley
,
, ,

s i zed pieces t wo ham kn uc k l es th ree shin s o f


,
tarragon vinegar and a l iaison of yo l k of eggs
, ,
s
T H E C U L IN ARY H AN D B O O K .

curry powder t o taste fi ll up wi th V él o u té _ ,


v eal b rai sed l egs and s add l es of mu t ton fill et s
, ,

sauce b oil add the j ui ce O f a l emon a n d a fe w


, ,
of beef b rai se d f ow l s a n d capon
, .

be a ten y ol k s bea t t i l l c reamy then s train for


, , LY ONNA I SE S A U CE — In to a comb ined sauce
use wi th por k ch ops por k t enderl oin f rie d vea l , , o f t w o th ir d s toma to a n d one -thi rd Espagnol e
-
,

chops a n d cu tle ts f rie d t ripe frie d chic k en , , , a d d rin gs of on ion s tha t h ave been l igh tl y frie d

r o as t veal fried cal f s head f ried swee tbrea d s


,

-

, wi th bu t ter and th en d r a ine d U sed wi th sau .

a n d l amb fri es can nelon s o f ox pal ates ,


fried , t ee d fille ts of fowl s b roil e d pork cu tlet s roast , ,

pigs fee t f ried sa d d l es of rabb i t


,
. leg or spare rib of por k sau t eed l egs or saddles ,

I TA L IAN S AU C E W H IT E — I n to a V él o u té ,
o f rabbi t .

sauce work some m inced and fried sh allots an d


, L OB STE R S A UC E — I n to a bu t te r sauce work
mushroom s c hopped parsl ey a ri d wh i te win e
,
. some lobster roe pieces of l obste r mea t l emon , ,

For I T ALI AN S AU C E B R OWN subs ti tu te , , j uice and a dash of c ayenne Used wi th c ro .

E spagnol e for V é l o u t é a n d M a d ei r a for th e , q u e t t e s of lobs ter b o i l e d h a d d o c k cod pi k e , p


, , ,

wh i te win e U se d wi th calf s head boiled


.

, W hi tefi sh pick erel plaice sau té of r e d snap


, , ,

'
calf s ton gue b roil e d cal f s l ive r frie d pigs ,

, per l obster cu tle t s croque t tes o f shad roe


, , .

fee t a t te r e a u x of rabbi t b roil ed tripe s tu ff e d


, , , M AD E I R A S AU C E —Powdered sugar M adei ra ,

turkey l egs s au te é d ar tichok es braised bl ac k


, , wi n e yol k s Of eggs a n d gra te d l emon rind
,

ga me an d grouse frie d calf s fe e t capilo ta d e ,


, bea ten toge ther ove r fi re till thick U sed wi th .

o f ch ic k en boiled ch icken boud in s of sal mon


, , , pu d dings an d s wee t en t rées .

sau te ed fille ts of h ad doc k fried l arks rice a n d , ,


M AD E I R A S A U C E — Equal qu an ti tie s of E s p ag
ree d bi r d s roas t pheasan t croque t tes o f rabbi t
, , ,
n ol e a n d toma to sauces well flavored wi th
ch icken an d turkey fried ska te boile d t rou t , , ,
M a d ei ra win e Use d wi th steak s cu tl e ts ten . , ,

fill e ts of turbo t a n d h al ibu t scallops of veal ,


l oin of bee f b roile d l ive r frie d c h i c k e n b r o il e d ,
, ,

and h am b read ed por k tenderl oin


,
.
cal f k i d n eys brai se d fi llets of hare par tri d ge , ,


,

] A R D IN I E R E S AU C E T ak e a s mal l col umn roas t pigeon roas t prairi e ch icken b roche tte , ,

c u t te r a n d cu t ou t col umn s of carro ts wh i te , o r epigramme of rabbi t cu tle ts croq ue t tes a n d , ,

and yell ow t urn i ps ; sli ce the m q uar ter i nch rissoles of rabbi t glaze d swee tbreads bro ile d , ,

thick a d d som e very smal l bu t ton on ion s ; fry


, t urtl e s teaks braise d tur t l e fi n s broi l ed veal , ,

all i n bu t te r wi th a l i t tl e sugar ; when b rown , cu tle ts k r omesk ies of veal b roiled veni son
, ,

a d d a l i t tl e s tock a n d si mmer t ill don e then , s teak .

d rai n them ; whe n d raine d pl ace th e m in to a , M AITR E D H OT E L Sauce —In to mel ted bu tter

rich Espagn ol e sauce adding some cooke d g reen , a d d lemon j uice chopped parsl ey and a l i t tl e ,

peas fi nel y cu t s t ringl ess bean s and v ery sm al l


, gra te d n u t meg U sed wi th b roiled s teaks fried .
,

pieces of c auliflowe r U se d wi th brai se d beef '


c al f brains b roile d bon el ess pigs fe e t b roiled
, ,
'
b ou d in s of p a r t r i d ge b r a i s e d cal f s l i v e r b r a i s e d , , sn ipe broiled swee tb rea d s broche t te o f f owl
, ,

capon b rai sed duc k braised n eck of m u t ton


, , , and tur k ey broil ed woo d cock and par tri d ge , ,

l arde d a n d roas t l eg Of l amb boned an d b raise d , ar tichok e bo t toms broi l ed so f t shell c rabs , ,

l eg o f mu t ton b raised ox ch ee k boil ed sal ted , , b roiled frog l egs broiled l obs te r broiled fresh , ,

ox tongue fricandeau Of veal roas t b reas t of


, , m ush rooms b roil e d oys ters ; broile d fi sh such ,

v eal boned s tu ff e d a n d b rai sed breas t of vea l


, , as sea bass b l ac k fis h fi lle t s of s triped bass , , ,

] OL IE FI L
- L E S AU C E — H al f a pi n t of pan a d a b l u e fi s h ci sco h a d d ock fi n n a n ha d d ie hal i
, , , ,

t wo small on ion s sl iced t wo yol ks of h ard , _


bu t herring k i n g fi s h S pan ish mackerel fresh
, , , ,

boiled eggs on e poun d of veal or poul try mea t


, ,
m ackerel sa l t mac k erel gray mulle t fi lle t s o f
, , ,

al l boile d w i th o n e qu ar t of V é l o u té sauce ; _
pi k e and pickerel smel ts sa l mon trou t b roo k , , ,

when d on e rub t h r o u g h t h e tami s and b rin g


,

,
t rou t and Wh i tefi sh sh ad , .

t o the sauce con si stency wi th boil ing m ilk ; fi n M AT EL O T E S AU C E — I n to a bu t ter sa uce work
i sh wi th a l i t tl e choppe d parsl ey Use d w i th . some boi led bu t ton on ion s scalde d mussel s a n d ,

boi led chicken boile d capon boiled tur k ey , , ,


oys ters a fl avor of garl ic essen ce of anchovies
, , ,

swee tb reads croque t tes of veal fowl turkey , , , ,


l em on j uice an d a dash o f cayenn e Used wi th .

swee tb rea d s l amb a n d bou d in s of wh i te m eat


, , . boiled carp c rimped c o d fis h conge r eel s k a te , , , ,

L I V O U R N A I SE S A U C E —In to a mayon n aise .


s tu rgeon b l u e fis h bak ed c o d fis h a n d boile d
, ,

r e d sn apper
work some pounde d an chovies an d chopped .

parsley U sed wi th c old fi sh


. .
M A T E L O TE S A U C E E qua l q uan ti ties of veal .

L I V E R N AI S E SAU C E — Ou t of carro ts whi te


b roth and wh i te win e some tarragon parsley , , ,
,

a n d yellow turn ips


bay l eaves pepper an d sal t ; boil ten m inu tes
scoop ve ry smal l ball s ,
, ,

a d d a l i t tl e V é l o u t é sauce an d s trai n U se d .

s team the m til l barel y d on e then d rain a n d , ,


wi th veal en t rées roas t veal an d boiled cal f
fry wi th a l i t tle bu t ter a n d sugar to gl aze them ; ,

th en add the m to equal par ts of E spagn ol e an d


'
b rain s .

toma to sa u ces ; sim mer t il l d on e Used wi th .


M AI N T E N ON S AU CE —B rai se some ham tri m
sa u t eed c u t l e t s o f v e al mu t to n fricandeaus of , ,
mi n g s chopped shall ots pars l ey and mush
, ,
T H E C U L I N A RY H A N DB O OK . 1 61

NEAPOLI T AN S A U C E —B rai se some vege tab l es


rooms wi th a l i t t l e sugar a n d l e mon j uice ; t a k e
ou t the h am add som e V é l o u t é sau ce reduce ,
a n d b acon wi th garden herbs ; when d one ad d , , ,

fin ish wi th a l iaison of egg y ol k s th en s t rain equa l q uan ti ties of E spagnol e an d toma to , .


Used w i th c ro que t te s o f wh i te fl esh e d meats sauces some game g l az e an d M ad ei ra wine , ,

and fowl s bou d i n s o f whi te m eat e tc a n d fo r


, si mmer t wen ty m inu te s and then s train U sed , .
, .

heatin g p i ece s of c ooked wh i te m ea t e tc fo r wi th braised gam e ch iefly , .


, .

devel opi ng in to en trées N E APOLITAN S AUC E —I n to a good E spagnol e


.
,

M AYONN A I S E S A U CE — Take raw yo l k s of work som e cur ran t j elly g rate d h orsera d ish , ,

eggs bea t i n a l i t tl e ol ive Oil ; when i t become s


, g rated h am por t win e and H arvey sauce , .

l ike bu t ter a d d some sal t th e n a l i t tl e more


, Used wi th braised mea t , .

O il, th en dry mustard an d c ayenn e ; t h en al ter N I CE O I SE S AUC E —I n to so me co l d V él o u t é


n a t e l y oil v i n egar an d l e mon j u ice ti l l thick
, sauce work a l iai son of h ar d boiled yo l ks of
en ough to sp read U sed wi th sal ads col d fi sh eggs rubbed through a sieve and m ixed wi th
.
, ,

and wi th aspic j e l l y to m ake aspic m ayon n aise O i l vinegar mus tard chopped ch ives a n d pars .
, ,

M I LAN A I S E S A U CE — In to e q ua l q uan ti ties Of l ey This i s a good cold sauce fo r cold m ea ts


N OR MAND E S A U CE —E qua l q uan ti ti es o f
. .

V é l o u t é and S upr eme sauces wor k some Par ,

mesan ch eese Used wi th boiled capon calf s cou r t bou ill on and scalded Oys ter l i q uor th ick
.
,

-

s wee tbrea d s boil ed ch ic k en boiled l eg o f , ene d l igh tl y wi t h roux th en wi th a l iaison of ,


,

l amb b rea d ed mu t ton an d vea l cu t l e ts quen


, e gg yol k s and cream U se wi th eel s fi l l e te d , .


,

elles and boudin s sol e pl aice t rou t pike pickere l W hi tefi sh


.
, , , , , ,

M I N T SA UC E — Fin el y chopped green m in t and h al ibu t


a l i t tl e gra ted or ange rind placed i n a t ureen N ON PAR E I L S AUC E —I n to a Hol l an d ai se sa uc e ,

vi nega r b rough t to the boi l w i th en ough sugar work some sl iced fri ed bu t ton m ush room s ,

to take o ff th e rawn ess; poured to th e oh Op pe d m ince d t ru ffles l obs ter c oral l obs ter bu t ter and , ,

m in t e tc ; serve d wi th roas t l amb


, .
some sl ice s of h ard b oiled whi tes of eggs U sed .

M US H R O O M S A U CE ( WH ITE ) —
.

I n to a V é l
wi th boil ed wh i te fl esh fi sh
ou t e or B écham e l sauce work a p urée of mush O N I ON S A U C E WH IT E AN D B R OWN —I n to ,

rooms an d some sl ice d b u t ton m ushroo ms th a t


, a B éch amel sauce si m me r m inced oni on s t il l
have been l igh tl y fried wi th bu t te r ; season wi th tender I n to equa l q uan ti ti es of M adei ra an d .

l e mon j uic e an d cayenn e U sed wi th boi l e d Espagnole sauce s si m me r t il l t ende r some


.

chic k en capon pheasan t par t ridge s wee t


, m ince d fried on ion s Th e whi te i s gen erall y
, , , .

breads l egs an d s a d d les of rabbi ts tur k ey


, u se d wi th boiled m u t ton an d th e b rown wi th ,
,

wings c ro q uet tes a n d ri sso l es of pou l try swee t


, roas t and brai sed mu t ton , .

breads veal e tc
O R AN G E S AU CE — I n to a b rown poul try th ic k
.
, ,

M U S HR OO M S AUC E ( B R OWN ) —I n to equa l ened and s trained g ravy si mme r t i l l ten d e r ,

quan ti ties o r E spagnole an d tomat o sauces some sh redde d orange pee l an d fi n ish wi th th e ,

work i n som e mush roo m p urée a n d sl iced bu t j uice of an oran ge Used wi th roas t and b rai sed .

ton mush room s th a t h ave been fried w i th bu t d u cks .

ter ; a l i t tl e chopped parsley l emon j u ice and


O YS T E R S AU C E —I n to a sauce Poule t te work
,

Madei ra wine Used wi th r oas t fi ll e t o f bee f .


,
,

b raised si rloi n of beef broiled s tea k s b raised some scal d ed and cu t u p oyste rs also som e of ,
, ,
the scal d ed and s train ed oy s ter l i quor U sed .

ox an d calf tongues scall ops O f c a l f s l ive r ,


brai sed veal braise d fowl s broil ed pigeon s and wi th boi led wh i te flesh fi sh boiled capon , ,
, ,

youn g rabbi ts c r o m e s k i e s of s wee tbreads boiled chicken an d boiled t urkey .

P A R S L E Y S A U C E —I n to a bu t te r sauce wor k
, ,

broiled s wee tbrea d s b roiled t ri pe b raised , ,


,

turkey l eg s roulade o f v eal , s tuff ed sh oulde r of


,
some chopped parsl ey U sed w i th pl ai n boi led .

'
veal frican d eau of veal ven ison chops b roil ed
,
fi sh boiled Ch ic k en c a l f s head ; d ippin g c u t
, , , ,

vea l chops and cu tl e ts broiled chic k en Ham l e ts O f mea t an d fowl i n before brea d ing ; al so
, ,

burgher and Vienn a s teaks b rai sed o x hear t fo r m ix ing i n wi th foods i n preparin g v ariou s
, ,

s tu ffed cal f s a n d sheep hear ts ’


en t rées .
.

N AN T AI S E S AU CE — P AS CAL I N E S AUCE —Tak e som e th i n whi te


I n to a wh i te R avigote sauce ,
.

work i n some pounded l ob s ter and c o ra l U sed I tal ian sauce and r a w egg yol k s wi th the j ui c e .

wi th fi ll e ts of fi sh such a s soles p ompan o of a l emon si m mer ti l l creamy s t rain a d d , , ,


.
, ,

k i n g fis h b ass pic k e rel red s n apper t rou t


, som e chopped and bl anched parsley
, ,
Use d , ,
.

W h i tefi sh al so wi th carp an d shad roes


, wi th boiled poul try swee tbreads for reheati ng . , ,

en trée s th e same cal f s h e ad cal f b rain s ’

E
NAPOL I TA I N S AU CE I n to some E spa g n o l e o f - , , ,
,

work a l i t tl e cur ran t j el l y seedl ess rai sin s pigs fee t turkey wings g renadin s of vea l , ,
.

and por t wine U sed wi th b raised c ap o n b ra i s e d PE R IG U E U X S A UC E —I n to a M adei ra sauce


,

.
,

s wee tbreads brai se d fresh ox tongue brai sed , work some m inced and fried shallo ts a l i t tl e , ,

v en i son b rai se d tur tle fin s , mea t gla ze anchovy bu t te r s l iced tru ffle s and
.
, ,
1 62 T H E C U L IN A R Y H AN DB O OK .

M adei ra wine U sed wi th fi ll ets o f bee f swee t .


, that are fi rs t sau t eed cooled d ippe d i n sauce , , ,

brea d s c roque t tes of poul try an d gam e s tu ffe d


, , then p l aced in c u tle t paper s and slowly b roiled ,

pheasan t l egs quen ell es O f tu r tl e c r o m e s k i e s


, , such as sal mon cu tle t s mu t ton cu tlets par t , ,

o f veal braised s m al l game b i rd s


,
roas t black , ri d ge c u t l e ts halve s of boned squabs o u t l e t s of
, ,

game bou d in s o f poul t ry carp s tewed i n win e


, ,
vea L
a n d d rain e d fr ie d fi ll e ts o f b a r e a n d rabbi t
, , PO U L E T T E S A U C E— M ake a wh i te sauce wi th
roas t turkey roas t ph easan t l ar d e d and roasted
, , s t ron g ch ic k en b roth then work i n a l iai son o f ,

por k veal cu tl e ts fi l l e t e d woo d cock


, , .
egg yol k s an d c rea m ; s train fi n i sh wi th the ,

P I Q UAN T E S AU CE — M in ce d pickles shall o ts , , j uice o f a l em on an d some chopped parsley .

O l ives capers a spoonfu l each o f l em on j uice


, , Used wi th ar tichok e bo t tom s bl anque t te of ,

and caper v in egar m ix ed in to a M adei ra sauce , , l am b f ries an d l amb s wee tb rea d s bou d in s o f ,

sim mere d for a few m inu tes a n d se rved wi th p oul t ry boil ed capon boile d chic k en boiled
, , ,

boiled bee f pigs fee t c al f s hea d boiled


, ,

, tu rkey en t rée Of calf or l amb tai ls i nch l eng ths


, ,

tongue cal f s l ive r ca rbon a d e of mu t ton fried


,

, , of s tewed c ucum b er s eels th a t have been ,

'
o r broile d youn g pigeon s pork chops and pork , s tewe d wi th a l i ttl e win e l amb s fee t si m mered ,

tende rloin brai se d ven ison ven i son ri ssol e s


, , , i n wh i te b ro th till ten d er scallops of s w ee t ,

b roi l e d an d fried tri pe an telope bear veni , , , brea d s scallops o f veal boile d cal f s h ead
, ,

,
'
son an d bu ffal o s tea k s . s tewe d pig s fee t s te wed t ur tl e fi n s s tewe d , ,

PO R T U G U E SE S AUCE — Reduce wi th hal f a b reas t o f veal l amb an d mu t ton , .

pin t of sh erry win e a bay l eaf th ym e mace , , , ,


PR OVEN C AL E S AU C E — Four h ar d boile d egg
peppercorn s cl ov es for ten min u tes then a d d
, , ,
yol ks four an chov ies a spoon f ul o f c apers a
, , ,

hal f a pin t of E spagnol e and h alf tha t quan ti ty l i t tl e ch oppe d tarragon parsley che rvil a , , ,

of con so m mé ; l e t the whole boil sl owl y t il l o f clove o f garlic a season in g o f sal t pepper a , , ,

th e requ i red con sis tenc y sk i m then s t rai n an d , ,


wi n e gl ass of ol ive oil an d h al f of v inega r .

use wi th braised fi lle t of beef .


Poun d th e whol e th en rub th rough a tam is ; ,

fi n i sh wi th a l i t tle choppe d parsley a n d l e mon


P OIV R AD E S A UC E — Fry toge ther wi th bu t ter
j uice Used wi th broiled eels b u t mos tl y wi th
.
,
of a l igh t brown col or a d iced carro t d iced ,
fi sh sal a d s .

on ion and a head of cel ery a sl ice o f lean h am


PR OVEN C ALE S AU C E — S tew toge ther for fi ve
,

d iced some thyme pa rsley bl ad e o f mace bay


, , , ,

leaf and a fe w b ru i sed peppercorn s ; then minu tes fou r b ruise d cloves o f garlic some
, ,
,

mois ten wi th h alf a pin t of she rry a n d the sam e thym e parsley s talks spoo n ful of capers bay
, , ,

l ea f a n d the pulp o f a l emon wi th a l i t tl e ol ive


O f wh i te vi n egar R educe to h al f i ts v ol u m e ,
. .

then add a l adle o f Esp agn ol e an d a l i t tl e con oil ; then moi sten wi th a l ad l e o f espagn ol e a d d ,

somm é ; boi l u p sk i m s t rain an d u se wi th a pinch of pepper and a pi ece o f gl az e Le t .

, , ,

b rai se d mu t ton b raise d roebuck can n elon s of the whol e si mmer for a quar te r o f an h ou r ,
, ,
then rub th rough th e tami s ; fin i sh wi th a l i t tl e
o x pala tes
-
sau té of rabbi ts an d hares roas t
, ,

young rabbi t b r oiled legs a n d sad d les of rab anchovy bu t ter U sed wi th roas t fi lle t of .

, '

bi t ; l egs and saddl es of cooked rabb i t coole d bee f cal f s b rain s fried i n ba t ter carp s te we d
, ,
, ,

then b readed and fried ; l ar d ed fille ts of ven i i n wh i te win e b raised d uc k s b raised l eg o f , ,

son ven ison chops an d b rai se d ven i son .


m u t ton ; b raised o u t l e t s o f m u t ton coole d then , ,
,
sprea d wi th a s tu ffing on on e side only t e ,

Ano ther way of mak in g PO I V R AD E S AU C E


h ea ted an d se rve d ; braised bon e d o x cheek ,
i s t o t ak e equa l q uan ti ti es of E spagn ole a n d
sal m i s Of par t ridge sca l lops of s weetbreads

, ,
tomato sauce s work i n som e m ince d sh al l ots a , ,
scallops of vea l .

bunch Of parsl ey b ay l eaves a tab l espoon o f


PR OVE N C AL E S A U CE —In to some espagnol e
, ,

wh i te pe p per t o each q uar t al on g wi th t wo ,

ounces of bu t ter an d t wo tablesp o on ful s of vi n work som e m ince d f ried m ush room s on ion s , ,

egar ; re d uce t o hal f i ts vol um e s t rain then , ,


tom a toes and a cl ove of garl ic U se d wi t h .

fi n ish w i th a l i t tl e H arvey sa uce por t win e an d ,


b raise d beef .

red cu rran t j ell y . R AVIG OT E SA UC E— I n to a V él o u t é sauce work


PO L ON AI S E S A U C E — M ake a sauce wi th veal a purée of parsley an d tar rago n l eaves some ,

bro th and boil i n i t some gr ated h o r s e r a d i s e m inced fried sh allo ts a n d a l i t tl e wh i te v in e


,

j u ice Of a l emon choppe d fen nel o r pa rsley ,


g ar Used wi th cal f b rai ns ox pi th s fri ed i n
. ,

leaves an d a l i t tle sugar ; season wi th sa l t an d ba t ter roas t par tri d ge s k inne d perch boi le d in
, ,

n u tmeg s train and use wi th roas t veal


, .
wh i te wi ne fi ll e ts of tu rbot fi ll e ts of hal ibu t
, ,

PAPILL OTE S AU C E — Fry toge the r for five


and o ther wh i te fleshed fi sh .

m in u tes sl ow l y a sl ice of bacon sc rape d two ,


R AVIG OTE S A U C E — In to a mayon n aise work
scraped on ion s an d t wo cloves of garl ic a n d ,
a pu rée of ch ives che rvil parsley t arr a gon , , ,

some m ince d m ush rooms th en m ois ten wi th a ,


and shallo ts U s e d wi th col d mea t a n d meat .

quar t o f M ad eira sauce boil u p fi n ish wi th , ,


sa l a d s .

cho ppe d pa rs l e y U se d wi t h cu tle ts of foo d . R A VI G OT E S AU CE — Take a smal l teacup and


1 64 T H E CU LI N AR Y H ANDB O OK .

fi n ish wi th por t w in e and u se wi th roas t game espagn ole till soft , then s train . U sed w i th
i n gene ral . roas t d ucks .

TA R T A R E S AU C E — In to a m ay onn aise sauce VE R TE P R E S A U CE —In to a V él o u t é o r wh i te


-

work some fi nel y ch opped parsley gherkin s , , r avigo te sauce work a purée o f chives spin ach ,

ch ives c aper s an d sh al lo ts U se d wi th brea d e d


, .
an d tarrag on l eaves U sed wi th boile d eels . .

an d fried fi l le ts o f ch icken an d capon frog V I NAI G R E TTE S A U C E— M in ce d s h a l l 0 t s


leg s s wee tbreads e els cu t i n fi nger choppe d pa rsley O il vinegar and a l i t tle sal t , ,

l eng th s broil ed sal m on s teak f ried cal f and c ayen n e carefull y blende d toge the r a n d
b rain s f rie d t ripe fri e d bu t te r fi sh .
used wi th c ol d pigs fee t an d pi c kle d l amb
'

T O U L O US E S AU CE —On e pi n t of H ol l an d ai se t on gues .

sauce h al f cup of wh i te win e ha l f cup o f


, ,
Y O R KS H I R E S A U C E — I n to s o me espagn ole ,
m in ce d m ush rooms l i t tle ch ic k en gla ze m i x , ,
work a l i t tl e curran t j elly por t wine o range ,
,

toge the r th en br in g t o t h e si m mer wi th ou t


, ,
j uice an d fi nely sh red d ed boiled o range pe e l .

b rea k ing o r cu r d l ing Use d wi th boile d an d .


U sed w i th roas t ham .

s te we d poul try s wee tbreads


S A UE R K R A UT—A p reparation of cabbage ( see
.

T OM A T O S AU CE T ake equal quan ti ti es of v -


cabbage ) .

good s toc k a n d toma toes a v eal a n d a ham ,


S C AL L OPS — A b road fla t shel l ed fi sh whi te i n ,
shan k a few he rbs sl iced v ege tables a n d bay
, , ,
color wi th pin k gill s U sed i n many way s as
, .

l eaves ; t wo o r th ree cloves o f ga rl ic a re O p ti on “


oy s ters ; such as sau t eed scalloped “ fried
" "
, ,
a l ; boi l al l till vege table s are don e th ic k en wi th " ” “
,
in ba t te r b readed and frie d
, baked and ,
r ou x s train a d d a l i t tl e sug a r U se d wi th " “
, , .

served on the hal f shell s te wed and in soup , .


b roi le d s teak s chops veal an d por k ch ops
S CR APPL E — Gen erally termed “ Ph il adelphi a
, ,
,

pork te nd erloi n f ried swee tbread s an d l a m b "

frie s b roiled cal f k idney s fried ch i cken scrapple i s pig s h ead brawn wi th corn meal ’

boile d toge ther t h en se t i n bl ocks a f te rwards


b rea d ed or i n ba t te r epigra mm e O f s we e t , ,

cu t i n sl ices an d fried for b reak f as t o r suppe r


b reads quen elles of tu rkey gren a d in s .

S E A K ALE — A vege tab l e resembling i n appear


.

of vea l f ried o r b roi led tripe ham


'

bu rger s teaks f ri e d o r b roile d pig s f ee t



.
ance a hea d of celery I t i s cooke d i n l eng th s .

f rie d ci scoes c o d fi s h s tea k s f ri ed h a d


l ike asparagus boiled and served wi th bu t ter , ,

dock a n d h al ibu t fil l e t e d pi k e an d m u s k a l H ollan d aise or E spagnole sauces ; al so af ter b e


l on ge fried smel t s b roi led we a k fi s h . .
ing boiled an d cooled i s cu t u p a n d m ixed ,
,

W hi tefi sh an d t rou t broil ed an d frie d oy s .


wi th en d ive a n d le t tuce an d used as a salad wi th
t er s . ven i son chops an d s teaks e tc e tc . .
French dressing .

S E M OLI N A— Name gi ven to a prepara ti on of


,

an d i s u se d i n conj unc ti on wi th o the r sauce s .

T O R T U E O R T U R TLE S AU C E —Equa l par ts wh ea t l ike F arin a I t i s u sed i n the ma k ing of .

O f toma to a n d e spagn ole sauce s i n to which ,


puddings ; a s a soup a n d sauce thic k en ing ; also
wor k so me sl ice d mush room s gard en herbs ,
m i xed wi th pressed bread i n the preparation of
a n d sher ry win e the g ra ted r in d a n d j u ice o f a
,
sausages as i t takes u p more fa t a n d wa ter
, . .

l emon an d a few m i nce d shallots


, U se d wi th . S H AD —N am e of on e of ou r bes t fi sh To be .

'
c alf s head . b roil e d i t shou l d be spl i t back and r ib bon es ,

T R I AN O N S A U C E — Equa l par ts of B earn ai se r em oved season e d wi th ol ive oil sal t a n d pep


, ,

a n d reduced t oma to sauces c arefully blen d e d per then place d be twe e n th e wire h inge d
,

togeth er U sed w i th broil e d s teaks swee t


.
,
broil er cooke d over a mediu m fi re served wi th
, ,

m ei i t r e d h Ot e l bu t te r and g arn ished wi th pars


’ '
brea d s cal f brain s e tc
, , . ,

V E L OU T E S AUC E — I n to some s t rong ch ic k en l ey a n d quar tered l emon .

a n d veal b ro th boi l a sma l l pi ece of p ickle d PLAN KED S H AD —Th e fi sh c l eaned spl i t , ,

pork a smal l bunch of gar d en he rbs a f e w car


, , bones re moved m ade fas t to the plan k coo k ed , ,

ro ts an d on ion s a l i t tle sal t sugar a n d pepper


, , , un d er a sal amander or i n a quic k ov en ; served
si m mer sl o wly til l th e pork a n d vege tabl es are on the p l ank wi th m ai tre d h Ote l bu t te r
,

.

don e th en thic k en wi th wh i te roux ; si m mer


,
B AKED S HAD — T a k e a ful l si zed sha d c l ean ,

gen tl y tak in g o ff th e fa t an d scu m as i t rises


,
t ri m sco re th e si d es wipe d r y then season , ,
,

ti l l O f a s moo th velv e t appearance ; then s train wi th sal t ; place the m i n a b u t tere d pan an d
th rough a h ai r sieve I t i s u se d as a basi s for .
)

cover th e fi sh wi th sm all pieces of bu t ter ; p u t


othe r sauces .

i n a med iu m oven a n d cook for fi f teen minu tes


V E N I T I E N N E S AU C E — C our t bouil lon t hic k
,

-
then pou r over th e fi sh a s mal l la d le of s tock ,

en e d wi th whi te roux si m mered a n d ski m m e d , som e t abasco sauc e and a cup f u l of c ream ; t e
a d d C h oppe d parsl ey a n d l emon j uice ; fi n ish t ur n t o oven a n d bak e t il l n icel y don e ; then l i f t
wi th a li aison o f egg yol k s and cream Used .
the fi sh on t o th e se rv in g pla t ter garn i sh wi th ,

wi th boile d fi sh .
m ai t re d h Ot e l po ta toes pou r the s train ed an d

,

VE R J UI CE S AU C E — B oi l some green grap e s in sk i mmed sauce over the fi sh and se rve .


T H E C U L INA R Y H ANDB O O K . 1 65

B OILED S H A D—C l ean tri m an d score the ,


S H O R TB R EAD —A n ame given t o a sor t of cake ,

si d e s of the fi sh pl ace on the d rain er of fi sh much used by th e Sco tc h peop l e .

S H R IM P —Name o f a th in sh el l ed fi sh used gen


,

k e t tle cover th e fi sh wi th boil in g wa ter a d d a


, , ,

l i t tl e sal t sim mer ti ll d on e ( abou t th i r ty m i n


, e r a l l y a f te r bein g boil ed tri mm ed and shelle d ; ,

u tes ) l i f t d rain ; serve wi th ei the r caper or lob


, , al ways to be had in can s T h e B aratari a shri mp .

ste r sauce an d garn ish wi th small boiled po ta


, i n can s are as goo d as c an be purchase d M a d e .

toes .
i n to sal ad s sauces omel e ts pa t ties bouche es
F R I ED S H AD —Fille t the fis h in to serving por
, , , , ,

croque t tes i n the prepara t ion of a ppe ti z e r s e tc


, , .

ti on s season wi th sal t and peppe r d i p in to


, , S M EL T—Nam e of a smal l de l icate fi sh which
beaten eggs con tain in g fl ou r enough to make a has th e fl avor of cucu mbers T o be cooked i s .

so f t bat ter then f r y a delica te gol d en color in


, d rawn from the gil ls s easoned wi th sal t rolled , ,

deep fa t ; d rain ; serve wi th ch ips a n d le mon .


i n flour and sau te ed wi th bu t ter o r breade d ,

B AKED ST U FF E D S H AD — Sca l e and tri m the and fried B roiled ; or run on skewers and
fi sh sp l i t d own the belly an d wi th d raw the
, b roi l ed .

b ones ; season wi th sal t and pepper ; s tu fi wi th S N IPE —A smal l game b ird ; m ay b e roasted ,

forcemea t m ade of a poun d of w h i te fis h b roil e d fried m ade in to bou d in s pies gal an


, , , ,

pounde d in th e mor tar wi th half a poun d of tines sa l mi s .


,

soaked a n d squee zed d ry brea d quar ter pound


S O LE S — Name o f a del ica te fla t fi sh A s th ere
,

of bu t te r fou r yol k s of ra w eggs j uice of a


, ,
.

lemon chopped parsl ey sal t an d peppe r to are few to be h ad i n the U n i ted S ta tes th e
, ,

tas te When s t u fi e d sew up the open ing floun d e r and p l aice is s u bs ti tu ted For recipes .

.
, ,
o f cookin g see F l ounder
score th e sid es place in bu t tered pan brush , .

S OR R E L — Name of a vege table Used i n soups


, ,

ove r wi th me l ted bu t te r bake till d on e ; serve ,


.
,

whole or i n por tion s w i th m ai t re d h 6te 1 sauce ’


sauces ; serv e d plain or m i xed wi th spinach as a
a n d a garn i sh of fancy po tatoes .
vege tab l e ; pu re ed as spin ach an d u se d as an ,

S H AD R O E — Keep the roes wh ole l ay the m i n ,


accompan i men t t o vea l pork fried swee t , ,

cold wa te r for an h ou r t ri m wipe d r y ; then b rea d s b rains e tc , , .

S O U F FL E —N am e gi ve n to a very l igh t pasty


, ,

season wi th sal t a n d peppe r rol l in flou r fry in , ,

l ar d ; serve wi th chip potatoes a sl ice of bacon , ,


p r eparation of mea ts or swee ts ; of th e omele t ,

a n d quar tere d lem on Al so boiled a n d served o rde r .

wi th cream sauce a n d g arn i shed w i th H ol l an S O U PS — S ee headin g of an y mea t e tc wan ted ; , .


,

dai se po tatoes B rea d ed wh o l e i f s ma l l or ,



al so con som mes ”
.

bl anch ed spl i t then b readed an d f ried ; served


, ,
SPAG H E T T I —A n I tal ian sol id pas te like maca
wi th Pari sien n e pota toes l emon an d parsley , .

ron i U sed i n every way l i k e macaron i ; for


B roiled an d served wi t h bacon g arn ished wi th
.

, “ ”
recipes of wh ich see Macaron i
ul ien n e potatoes a n d l emon M ade in to cro ,

j
q u e t t e s a n d served wi th l obs ter sauce Also S P IN AC H —A vege table goo d for th e stomach ,

blanche d mi xe d wi th H ollan d aise sauc e a n d


,
because n o t onl y i t s o wn proper ties are a h
scall ope d .
sorbed bu t the l ife sus tai n in g qual i ties of tha t
S HAD D O C K— A d esser t f rui t from th e Wes t wi th wh ich i t i s prepare d : f o r spinach from
G r e e n w h i c h p l ai n boiled a n d ea ten as a g reen s
In d ies ( see g rap e f rui t ) .

m ay be all righ t ; bu t to those who l i ve a t


S H AL LO T — N am e of a sma ll on ion very m ild ,
h o tels clubs e tc i t i s p repared as a p u r e é .
, ,
i n flavo r Used i n the p repara tion of delicate
.
, ,

richl y en d owed wi th c ream bu t ter gravies , , ,


sauces and soups .

e tc wel l seasoned wi th sal t pepper and N UT


S H EEPS H EAD — N a m e of on e of ou r s e a fis h so
.
, ,

, M E G ; an d when used ei the r as a vege table ,

called on accoun t of the sh ape of i ts m o n th b e g arn i tu re i n an omel e t or as an ac c o mp an i


, ,

ing l ike th a t o f a sh eep ; al so i t s havin g t wo men t to roas t or boi l ed ham i t i s go o d '

, .

sim il ar rows o f tee th I t i s boiled a n d served


S QU AB —N ame given to a youn g pigeon For
.

wi th cape r sauce a n d garn ished wi th H ollan "


reci pes see Pigeon
dai se po ta toes B aked a n d served wi th pi ,

q uan te sauce garn ished wi th P ari sienn e pota ,


S Q U AS H - A vege tab l e of th e m e l On or d e r ,

t oes B roile d and served w i th V e n i t i e n n e peel ed cu t i n pieces pl ai n boi led or mashe d


, , ,

bu t te r garn i she d wi th S a ra toga ch ips


, S au .
then served as a vege table ; cu t i n sl ices a n d
te ed a n d serv ed wi th bro wn I tal ian sauce ,
baked or s team ed then th e pul p r emove d , ,

garn ishe d wi th D uches s e po ta toe s B rai se d mashed and u sed in s tead of pump k in f o r pies .

a n d serve d wi th C reole sauce garn i shed wi th , S Q U I RR EL — E i ther the red gray o r b l ac k m ay , ,

s mall po ta to c ro q ue t te s . be prac ticall y used i n a ll th e ways o f spri n g


SH E R R Y —N am e o f a S pan i sh win e U sed wi th ch icken s ; and are rel ish ed too .

ST I LT ON —N ame of a pr i me Engl ish cheese


.

d in n e r se rvice in makin g cobblers j ell ies , , ,

sauces e tc , .
( see
1 66 T H E C U L INARY HAN D B O OK .

STR AWB E R R I E S —One o f the choice tab l e C AS SEROLE O F SWE E T B R E AD S — Lin e the
f rui ts ea ten wi th cream and sugar ; c ru shed a n d cassero l e wi th boiled rice arrange the i n terior
'

m ixed in to ices ; ma d e in to tar ts and pies j el wi th l amb s wee tb reads i n fricassee bake and
, ,

l ies shor tcakes m eringues ch arl o t tes e tc


, ,
serv e i n th e c asserole
, ,
. .

S TU RG E ON —N ame of a l ar g e fi sh th a t i s sold C R O U S TAD E S O F SW E ET B R EAD S In to


skinn ed as ca tfi sh are U sed bake d and se rved . the fancy cro u s ta d e case s ( now to be purchased
wi th R emou lade sauce l arded as a frican by the d ozen or barrel ) serve the fricassee of ,

deau and se rved wi th bacon and mush room s wee tbread s above .

s auce braised wi th h erbs a n d vege tab l es B L AN Q U E TT E O F S WE E T B R E AD S Sl ice


an d served wi th the s t rain ed and ski m med the s wee tb rea d s in to even sl ices wi th corre
b raise broil ed i n s teak s and served wi th s p o n d i n g sl ices of t ru ffles mois ten wi th a s u ,

pi q uan te sauce s tuffed bak ed an d se rved p r e me sauce ; served wi thin a border of we ll


,

wi th B o u r g i gn o t te sauce b oil ed and served cooked rice grain s .

wi th Genevoise an d H ollan dai se sauces E P I G R AM M E O F SWE ETB READ S .


L ard ,

ST E RL E T— N am e given t o the youn g s turgeon b raise an d gl aze on e hal f o f the quan ti ty of .

S U C C OTAS H — N am e g iven to a co mb in ation o f s wee tbreads requi red t he o ther ha l f to be ,

cooked corn and l i ma bean s U sed as a v e ge b r eaded and fried a golden col or ; pl ace one o f
.

tabl e each again s t fancy t oas t ; serve wi th toma to


SWE E T B R E AD S —Th e n am e gi ven to two suc
.

sauce .

cu l en t p ieces o f flesh o f the calf ox and sheep C U R R Y O F SWE E T B READ S — B eef s wee t
, ,

tha t adhere t o the throa t an d hear t B efore b reads are as goo d as any for thi s Take the
.
.

u sin g i n th e preparation of di sh es th ey mus t breads soak for t wo hours in war m water boi l
,
, ,

fi rs t be b l anched t ri mmed and s k inned


, t i ll tender clean and t ri m them then press b e
.
, ,

SW E E T B R E AD S W I T H SPIN A C H — Lar d the t ween pla tes til l cold ; slice the m and fry wi th
s weetbreads wi th seasoned s t ri ps of por k ar bu t ter a go l den color ; th en fry slice d on i ons
, ,

range them i n a b r a s i e r e wi th bacon h e rbs add flou r to form a rou x moi s ten wi th the
, , ,

vege tab l es an d s tock ; when don e take ou t ; s trai n ed and sk i m med s tock the s we e e tb r e ad s
,

serve on a bed of spin ach pure e wi th th e were boiled in add curry powd er to t aste si m
, , ,

s trained and ski m med brai se pou red over them mer ski m ; serve wi thi n a borde r of we ll boi l ed.
,

S C ALL OP E D SW E E T B R EAD S — S wee tbrea d s grain s o f rice .

and bu t ton mush rooms cu t in to d ice sau te ed S WE ET B R E AD S WITH K I D N E YS , T ake


wi th bu t ter surplu s bu t te r then poure d o fl
, l arge vea l s wee tbreads blanch cool press and , , , ,

moi sten ed wi th V é l o u té sauce fi lled in to s cal tri m them then l ard them wi th s tri ps of t ru ffles
, , .

l op shell s o r d ishes ; sif ted breadcru mbs an d a B eat t o a fro th th e whi tes of th ree eggs i n to ,

l i t tle Parm esan cheese s trewn on top ; b aked a i t then mi x some finel y chopped p is tach io n u ts ;
del icate b rown and served . roll the t r u fli e d s wee tbreads in th e eg g then i h ,

F RI C AS S E E O F SW E ET B RE AD S S wee t ser t i n bu t tered pape r cases bake till of a n ice ,

breads cu t i n even si zed pi eces ; bu t ton m ush color remove the paper place the swee tbread , ,

rooms sau te ed added to th e s wee tbreads ; mo is t


,
on a ci rcle of bu t te red toas t then flank i t wi t h ,

ened wi th V é l o u té sauce si m me r e d ; se rved ,


broi l ed l amb o r sheep kidneys and se rve wi th ,

wi thin a fancy pi ped borde r of mashe d po ta toes por t win e sauce .


.

F R I ED SWEE T B R E AD S C OL B ERT S A U C E M ED AL LI ON S O F SW E ETB R E AD Take


—The swee tb reads spl i t season ed wi th sal t
,

,
smoo th skin ne d tomatoes cu t them i n halves , ,

and pepper dipped i n bu t ter then i n bea ten


,
place cu t side d o w n i n baking pan a n d dry the m
,

eggs an d sifte d B RE AD c ru mbs f rie d a del i down i n a m e d i u m oven ; then place a s l ice of
,

ca te brown wi th bu t ter ; served on fancy toas t s wee tbread i n each h a l f pu t the t wo ha l ves to ,

wi th C olber t sauce .
ge ther pin them wi th a too thpick then bread , ,

B R AI SE D SWE E TB RE AD S W I H T V E G E and fry them d rain re move the pick ; ser v e on , ,

T AB LE S —Th e s wee tb rea d s l arded b raised c irc l es of toas t and Supreme sauce
,
.

wi th h erbs vege tables a n d s tock t aken u p L ARDED SWE ETB R E AD S T O U L O U S E



, ,
,

when d on e th e b raise s trai ned and ski m med ;


,
G ARN I S H Take vea l sweetb reads l ard them ,

then u sed to mo isten a macedoin e or j ardi n iere wi th seasoned s t rip s of b acon b raise till don e ,

of vege tables ; se rved the swee tbreads on fancy


,
and gla zy Wi th h erbs vege tables a n d s tock ; ,

t oast th e vege tab l es around


,
serve on ci rcles of toas t wi th T ou l ouse garn ish
.

FR I E D STUFF E D S W E ET B R E AD S Spli t the — around ( see G arn ishes ) ,


.

C R OQU E TT E S O F SWEETB R E ADS - Take


swee tbrea d s then spread i t on bot h si des wi th
,

a D U x e l l e s sauce con tai n in g m i nced mu sh



th e tr i mm in g s of swee tbreads and some b o iled
rooms an d on i on s then d oub l e b read an d fry ;
,
swee tbread s fro m the ox cu t the m u p very fi n e , ,

serve wi th a rich b row n sauce c on tain ing a ddin g som e m inced mush rooms and sha ll ots ,

sherry wine . then bo i l the m down thick wi th V él o u té sa u ce ,


1 68 TH E C U L I NARY H ANDB OO K .

l ike a fricassee ; seasoned wi th sal t peppe r and S AL M ON T R OU T S AU T E —C u t the fis h i n to ,

mace ; fi n ish by adding th e eggs sim me r th en s teak s season wi th sal t and pepper F ry some
, , , .

a d d sherry win e . sl ices of bacon a del icate brown th en rol l the ,

T O M AT OES — On e of th e bes t of the vege tab l e fi sh i n flou r a n d fry in the bacon fa t till of a
frui ts U sed i n making pies preserves soups
. gol d en b rown ; take up add flour t o the pan
, ,
,
, ,

sauces salads as a vege table bake d and s tu fl e d as


, ,
s ti r mois ten wi th boi ling fi sh bro th add th e
, , ,

a garn ish ; used as an accompan i men t to s teak s j uice of a l em on and a l i t tle toma to catchup , ,

when broile d as a pick l e an d i n the p repara


,
s train over th e fi sh i n a cl ean sau toi r si m mer
, ,

tion of p i c c a l il i as an ingredien t t o chu tney


,
for a fe w m in u tes then serve wi th some of the ,

and u se d by the coo k i n m ore way s than an y sauce an d a s trip of the bacon on the top .

o the r fru i t veg e tabl e kn own B A KED ST U FF E D T R OU T — Take the l ake


TR I P L E —Name given t o a combin a tion of spo n ge
.

t rou t tri m and s c a l e i t s tu ff wi th a fi sh force ,


cake sh er ry win e preserves cus tard an d whip


, ,
m ea t se w up the bel ly score the sides i n por
, , , ,

p e d c ream tion cu ts season wi th sal t and pepper brush


T RIP E —Th e fi rs t s tom ach of the ox Use d afte r
.
, ,

wi th bu t te r d redge wi th flou r p l ace in a bu t


. , ,

bein g prepare d by th e bu tchers I t i s easil y di t e r e d pan bake and baste ti ll don e ; serve w i th
. ,

ges ted con tain s good n u tr ien ts I t may be


, an a n c h o v i e d E spagnole sauce garn ish wi th
.
,

broi led a n d se rved wi th mel te d bu t ter F ried D uchesse po tatoes .

ei the r after b reading or di ppi n g i n fri t ter ba t B R OI LED S AL M ON T R O UT— Take the who l e
,

ter and serve d wi th f ri e d oni on s o r wi th a pu rée sides freed from bon es m ois ten wi th ol ive oil , ,

of on ion s i n ei ther b rown o r wh i te sa u ce season wi th sal t and peppe r d re d ge W i th flou r . ,

S tewed plain wi th on ion s i n whi te sauce broi l wel l don e over a clea r fi re ; serve i n por
S tewe d wi th to m a toes a clov e of garl ic red ,
ti on s wi th m ai t re d h 6t e l bu t te r garnish wi th ,

peppe rs ol ive oil Worces tersh i re sauce sliced


, ,
P a r i s e n n e po ta toes l e mon and p arsley , , .

on i on s and mea t gravy Th i s i s called " i n C R E S ALM ON T R OU T B A K E D WIT H T OM A


.

T OE S — T ake th e sides of fi sh f reed from bones


"
OL E s tyl e S tewe d i n E spagn ol e sauce w i th
.
,

an ad d i tion o f fried on ion s S tewed d own season wi th sa l t an d peppe r d us t wi th paprika , ,

rich i n toma to sauce S tewed i n a sauce d redge wi th flou r arrange i n a bu t tered bak ing ,

Poule t te and se rve d wi th toas t B aked i n a pan cover wi th cann e d toma toes a d d a m inced , ,

rich W h i te on ion sauce G ri ll e d and serve d green peppe r bake an d bas te til l done ; serve ,

w i th tar tar sauce C u rried and served wi th wi th the tomatoes and g arn ish wi th Vic tori a ,

fancy c r o fi to n s M ade i n to a fricassee b y potatoes


s tewin g i n a sauce V é l o u t é L aid ou t i n F I L LET E D T R O UT FR I E D WITH B AC ON
. .

l eng ths the i n S i d e spread W l t h sausage m ea t


,
Take the sides o f s a l mon trou t freed from bone , ,

rolled u p i n to cann elon s bake d and bas ted wi th c u t them i n to por tion p ieces season wi th sal t
,
,

toma to sauce ; se rved wi th som e of th e sauce and pepper h av e rea d y some fryin g oil very , ,

and garn ished wi th sau sage ball s S au t eed h ot M ake abat ter o f beaten eggs and a very .

and served wi th B ordelaise sauce Si m l i t tl e flour d i p the fi l le ts in the ba t ter fry i n , ,

me re d down till nearly d ry W i th a l i t tl e whi te the oil ; serve wi th a s trip of bacon on the fi sh ,

b ro th choppe d parsley and s trips Of lean h am


, ,
garn i sh wi th Sara toga chips l emon and pars l ey .
, .

TR OU T S T EAK S AU C E T R IAN ON —Take


then mo i s ten ed W i th a sauce T fi n ished
oul ou se .
,

wi th a fe w gherkin s fi nel y m i nced .


,

the cen tre cu t s tea k s of sal mon trou t season


T R O U T —On e of the mos t d e l l c a te fl avore d fi sh ,

wi th sal t an d peppe r m o i sten wi th ol ive oil ,


, ,
L AKE T R O U T ' S AL M O N R and the d redge wi th flou r b roil over a clear fi re bast
T OUT , ,
B R Q O K T R Q UT
.

T h e del i ca te broo k rou t


t in g wi th bu t ter ; serve wi th a sauce T rianon
'

l s e l t h e r bro i led or fr 1 ed an d serve d w 1 th a poured aroun d


,

m ai tre d h fite l sauce ’


Th e lake a n d sal
mon trou t may be cu t i n s teaks a n d broile d ; L AKE T R OU T FR I ED T O M A T O SAU CE

served wi th a H oll an d ai se sauce Cu t i n


Scale an d tri m th e t rou t cu t i n s teaks season , ,

s teak s a n d frie d serve d wi th a sl ice of bacon ; W i th sal t and pepper d re d ge W i th flour fry "1 ,
,

garnish wi th fanc y po ta toes B oile d a n d b acon fa t t o a go l den col or ; serve w i t h tom ato

d
serve wi th Anchovy sauce B aked and sauce pou red around O r m ay be served wi th a .

served wi th I tal ian sauce s tri p of b acon garn i she d wi th Rei t z po ta toes , .


B AKED S ALM O N T R OU T Scale and cleanse B OI L E D T R O U T S H R IM P S AU C E — Lake o r »

the fi sh score th e si d es wh ere the por tion i s t o


,
S al mon trou t scaled an d t ri m med scored i n , ,

be cu t rub the scores wi th m ixe d sal t peppe r


,
por tion cu ts pl aced on th e d rain er of fi sh ke t ,
,

and groun d h erbs l ay i n bu t tere d pan bake ,


tl e cove red wi th cold water con tain i n g a bunch ,
,

and baste wi th bu t ter and cour t bou illon ; when of gar d en herbs a l i t tle sal t an d vinegar
- , ,

done l i f t o ff gen tly on to th e s tea m tabl e ; serve


,
brough t to the boi l sk i m me d si m mered t ill , ,

in por tion s wi th ei the r Genevoise or E spagn ole don e l ifte d up a n d d rained ; se rved wi th sh rimp ,

sauces garn ish wi th sm al l potato cro q ue t te s


, s auce garn ished wi th Ho ll andaise po tatoes . , .
T H E C U L I N ARY H AND B OOK . 1 6g

B AKE D T R OU T ST E AKS —T ake th e l ake trou t d rawn and washed o u t i n to j oin ts leaving the , , ,

scale and t ri m cu t i n s tea k s ar range in bu t ,


the l eg an d wing bon e a l i t tl e expose d Pl ace
,
.

t e r e d pan cove r wi th All eman d e sauce ba k e


,
the pieces i n a bak ing pan se ason wi th chil i , ,

gen t l y til l d one ; serve g arn ished wi th V ill a peppe r and sa l t sp rinkl e wi th mel ted bu t ter ,

g e o i s e po ta toes . and roas t slowl y t il l brown ; then ta k e up i n to a


B R AI SED T R OU T M A T E LO T E — Scale and sau toi r add flou r sh a k e toge ther mois ten wi th
,
, , ,

t ri m the fi sh score th e si d es i n por t ion cu ts


,
chicken or tur k ey s tock b ring to the b o i l s k i m . , , ,

b raise wi th bacon h erbs a n d fi sh b rot h ; when then add the gra ted rind and j uice of an oran ge
, ,
,

d on e ta k e u p s train a n d sk i m th e braise glaze


, ,
sim m e r t ill the bi rd i s tender T a k e one pound ,
.

the por tion s wi th i t ; serve garn i shed wi th a of raw h am a n d on e me d iu m si ze d on ion cu t ,

M atelote .
i n sm al l squares f ry the m l igh tly wi th ple n ty ,

B R OOK TR OU T WI T H Q UENE L LE S Cl ean — of bu t ter i n the sau toi r then a d d a poun d of ,

and t ri m the fi sh s tu ff wi th a fi sh farce ar wel l washed rice moi sten wi th half a gallon of ,
,
,

ch icken or turkey s tock place on the cover and


range i n a well bu t te re d pan season wi th sal t ,
,

and pepper a d d a fe w mixe d herbs a n d a glass l e t si mmer t il l rice i s wel l done T o serve : .

of whi te win e wi th a l i t tl e fi sh broth ; bake place the rice nea tl y on servi n g plat te r the ,

abou t fi fteen m in u tes wel l bas tin g wi th t h e por ti on of bi rd on the rice wi th a c roque t te
,

l i q uor ; th en tak e up st rain the residue in to fri l l in i t ;


,
o r on the wing o r l eg bon e ; pour
some E spagnol e sauce boi l u p a n d sk i m ; then some of th e gravy over th e wh ole and flank the
,

add sl iced tru ffl es a n d mushroom som e rice wi th smal l roas ted po ta toes ,
.

bl anched oysters a n d a li t tle l obs te r coral ; serve B O I LED T UR KEY OYSTE R S AU CE—Tak e ,

wi th the oyste rs as a garn ish and the sauce ve ry l arge plum p bi r d s singe d raw wash , , , ,

pou red over .


t russ th em wi th the l egs forced wel l i n to th e
B R O I LED B R OO K T R O U T — Scale a n d t ri m bod y then boil them wi th a piece of sal t pork , ,

the fi sh ; draw i t th rough the gills th en s tu ff i t carro ts o n ion s and cele ry fo r abou t th ree , , ,

through th e mou th wi th bu tte r m ixed wi th hou rs ; take up and serve por ti on s wi th plen ty ,

fi n ely m inced swee t herbs sl igh tl y score the of oyst e r sauce poured over A wel l m ade
, .

si d es season w i th sal t and peppe r pass the


,
cel ery sauc e i s also ve ry appropriate , .

fi sh through ei ther mel te d bu t te r or ol iv e oil ; R OAS T SP R IN G T U R KEY OYST E R S A UC E


—Take youn g pl um p bi rds singed d rawn
,

b roil gen tl y wi thou t breakin g the sk in ; serve , , ,

w i th Poiv rade sauce washed and trussed ( n o t s tu fle d ) Roas t abou t


.
.

T RU FFL E S — Name of an aroma tic tuber On an hou r wel l bas tin g wi th bu t ter Serve i n .
, .

th e E uropean con t in en t are serve d b ak ed por ti on s wi th a good b rown oys te r sauce ( see , ,

boile d gratin ated broiled s tewed in wine


, S auces )
, , , .

R OA S T T U R KEY S T UFFED —Take p l ump


e tc . B u t on accoun t o f thei r very high
price i n th i s coun t ry the cook uses them i n ,
,

youn g b i rds singe d raw wash s t u ff wi th a


sauces forcemeats omel ets sal ads and turkey
, ,
, , , ,

mix ture of whi te bread soaked and squee zed


,

s tu ffing .

d r y seasone d wi th sal t peppe r m ixed herbs


T UNN Y T H ON M AR INE —As i t general l y
, , ,
“ ,

mel te d bu t te r and yolk s of eggs Truss wi th .

appears on the bil l of fare u n d er th e headin g th e legs wel l in to th e body ; season the bi rd wi th
,
'
of hors d o u e v r s or appe ti z ers i s the n ame of a peppe r an d sal t roas t for abou t t wo h o u r s we l
,
, ,
fi sh of t he appearance a n d fl avo r of S pan ish basti n g d uring roas ting ; serve por ti on s wi th the
mac k erel I t i s gene rally i mpor ted i n t in s pre
.

s tu ffi ng un der the mea t and a d i sh of cranberry ,


,
pared i h ol ive oi l .

sauce o r j ell y separate The turkey may .

T U R KEY On e of th e na tive American poul try


-
al so be s tu ff ed wi th mashed swee t po tatoes
bi r d s found wild i n M ex ico And the wild bir d Agai n wi th vea l forcemea t con tai ning a l ibera l
.

i s as supe rior to th e d omes tic on e as the can quan ti ty of pee l ed boiled chestnu ts then served ,

vas back duck i s to the domes tic d uck wi th ch es tn u t sauce ; tha t i s wi th boiled ch es t .

B R O I LED S PR IN G T U R KEY— Plump young n u ts peeled rubbe d t h rough the tami s and th e , ,

bi r d s singed spli t down the back breas t a n d


, , p urée thus ob tain e d m ixed in to the tu rkey ,

back bones rem oved thigh bon e snappe d th e gravy , T hey m ay al so be s tu fle d wi th an , .

si d es th en cu t i n h a l ves ; season wi th sal t a n d oys ter dressi n g and served wi th a b rown oyste r
pepper brush wi t h bu t ter or ol ive oil broil a
, sauc e .
T h ey m ay also be s tu ff ed wi th s tewed ,

gol d en b rown ; serve on slices of bu t tered toas t t ru ffles a n d serve d wi th P erigu eux sauce and ,

an d garn i sh wi th t wo roas t m ush room s on th e garn i she d wi th quen el l es of poul try Also
bird flanked wi th sl ices o f toma toes brea d e d
, s tu ff ed wi th pork sausage mea t i n which has
an d fri ed a l i t tle m ai t re d h 6t e l bu t te r sprink

, been m i xe d some boile d and peeled chestnu ts ,

l e d ov e r the whole and served wi th a Ch ipol ata ga rni sh ( see


.
,

STEWED S PR I N G T U R KEY S OU T H E R N Garn ishes ) Also s tu ff ed wi th veal forcemeat


STY L E —Take young plu mp bi r d s singed
,

and served wi th a F i n an c i er e garni sh In , .


1 70 T H E C U L INA R Y HANDB O OK .

E ngland th e com mon way o f th e people i s to se rv ing place a t ei the r end of the d ish a sma ll
,

s t u fl the turkey wi th or d in ar y d ressin g as given quan ti ty o f aspi c a n d cu rran t j ell y .

above an d t o serve i t w i th roas t pork sausages


, , B LAN QU E T T E O F T U R K E Y —S lices of co l d
an d a sl ice of boil e d sa l t l eg of por k al ways , cooked tu rk ey freed from sk in a can Of good ,

handing round s t ic k s o f fi ne wh i t e celery .


bu t ton mu sh room s al so s l iced Pu t the t wo .

B O I L E D S T UFFED T U R K EY— T ak e youn g i n to a rich V él o u té sauce b rin g to th e si mmer , ,

pl u m p b i r d s si n ge d raw w a sh s t u ff wi th veal
, , , , skim add j uice of a l emon ; served wi th i n a
,

fo rcemea t ; trussed wi t h the l egs wel l in to th e bor d e r of green peas or grain s of rice or fi nely , ,

body ; boi l i t til l ten d e r wi th a carro t on ion , , s h re d n oo d les .

cel ery and a sal te d o x tongue ; serve wi th a


, B R A I S ED T URKEY— S in ge and truss the b i rd
coup l e of sl ice s of t h e tongu e on th e bi rd th e , wi thou t stu ffi n g as for roas ting ; then roast ,

s tu ffi n g u n d ern ea th and a sauce m a d e from the , q u ickl y bas tin g wi th bu t te r to ge t on a n ice


l iquor i t was boi led i n pou re d around It b rown col or Take u p a s soon as b rowned
. ,

may a l so be s tu fl e d wi th gra ted b readcrumbs and pl ace i t in to a d eep sau toi r wi th a few
m i xed w i th m ince d a n d boi led c e l ery raw eggs , , s l ices of vea l a t the bot tom ; cover the bi rd wi th
sal t pepper an d bu t ter and served wi th H ol
, , s l i ces of fa t bacon then fi l l up wi th goo d wh i te
,

l andai se sauce O r wi th egg sauce V él o u té , s tock ; add a bunch Of swee t herbs a l i t tl e sal t , ,

sauce parsl ey sauce


. Al so garn i shed wi th a t hen si mme r ti ll done ; take up th e bi rd reduce ,

sl ice of boiled ham a n d a spoonfu l of spin ach th e s tock to h a l f glaze sk im s trai n a n d serve , ,

pu r ee .
wi th the bi rd Garni sh wi th smal l potato c ro
B ON E D T U R KE Y—Th i s d ish i s al way s served
.

qu e tte s .

cold ei the r pl ai n or wi th aspic or i n a gal an S T U FFED Y O UN G T U R KEY L E G S —C u t o fl


t in e I t is a favori t e wi th ba l l par ties an d


.
, the l eg an d thigh thus m aking f our por tion s ,

o the r l uncheon or suppe r gatherin gs T ak e .


f rom each bi r d You can s tu fl th e o ther par t
.

two bi rds on e smalle r th an th e o ther Remove


, .
of the bi rd an d roas t i n th e usu al way as ,

th e h ead fee t an d wi n gs then spl i t th e sk in


, , everybody wan ts a sl ice of the breas t Re
d o wn th e spinal column ; remove the flesh w i th m ove th e bon e from th e l eg cu ts season them ,

o u t break i n g th ro u gh th e skin a n d leave th e , wi th sal t an d peppe r th en s tu ff th e open ing ,

carcass wi th en t rails en tire Lay the bird s ou t .


wi th a wh i te fo rcemea t i n wh ich i s i n c o r po r
on the tabl e ski n si d e d own O n th e l arg e r o n .
a te d m inced ham t r u fli e s an d mush room s ; roll
,

pl ac e a colu m n of por k sausage or vea l f o rc e e them in to shape sew the ends w rap each one , ,

mea t down th e breas t cen tre ; on that l ay a , i n a piece of b acon then boil gen tl y i n whi te ,

col u m n of cooked to n gue a n d on e i the r si d e of , s tock til l tender ; t ake up a n d cool ; then r e m o v
i t a smaller colu mn of p ick le d belly of cook ed th e sewing ; m ean ti me reduce the s tock ti l l of a
pork Season wi th sal t peppe r a n d thy me
.
, .
sauc e con sistency ; pl ace the l egs in again to ,

Remove th e flesh from th e s k in of the sm alle r r eh ea t then take u p and roll in fresh grated
,

bi rd an d place th e wh i te mea t ove r t h e dar k of b readcru mbs ; pl ace i n a bu t tered pan sprin k l e ,

the s tu ffed bi r d an d th e d ark ove r th e wh i te


, wi th b u t ter place i n oven an d ge t on a good
,

mea t T hen d raw th e t wo sides toge ther sew


.
, col or ; serve on a bed of boiled rice wi th the
i t up in to a goo d shape ; then sew i t in to a cl o th sauce pou red aroun d .

an d boi l till tender ( abou t t wo h ou rs ) T ak e .


C R E AMED C OLL OPS OF T U RKEY —S l ices
up an d d rain then place i t b et ween t wo
,
of cold cooked tur k ey free d from s k i n cu t in to ,

boards ; pu t a weigh t on top an d l e t become n ea t th in sl ices ; then p l ace in to a Supr eme


thorou ghl y col d ; th e n remove th e clo th t ri m , sauce an d si m mer tor ten m in u tes ; se rve on a
th e bi r d wipe cl ean wi th a h ot we t cl o th gl a ze
, ,
s l ice of toas t sprinkl e the top wi th fi ne l y
,

i t and cu t por ti on s to orde r I f to pl ace on a .


m inced t ru ffles and l ean h a m m ixed toge ther ;
table wh ol e then decora te th e gl a z i n g wi th
,
garn ish the sides wi th fancy c r o fi to n s spread
fancy piped bu t ter an d take o ff the fi rs t sl ice ,
w i th foie — gras or l ive r pas te .

H A S H E D T U RKEY W I T H EG G —For thi s


I t may also be roaste d instea d o f bei n g in
a clo th and boil e d T o mak e a G ALAN TIN E
dish buy a big o l d gobb l er weigh in g t wen ty
O F T U R KEY take th e bi rd when t h e cl oth i s
,
,

poun ds or so truss as fo r boili n g then s team i t


removed h ave a gal an tin e mold n icely decor
,
, ,

til l ten d e r ; when cooled rem ove the sk in and ,


a ted wi th aspic j el l y an d f an cy for m s of green ,

take o ff every par t icl e of m ea t cu t i t in to v ery


peas wh i te and yolk of har d boil e d egg m ace ,
, ,
s mall d ice mois ten i t wi th V é l o u t é sauce brin g ,
d o i n e of vege tables ; then fi ll the m ol d wi th sl ices ,

i t to th e si m mer ; serve on bu t tered toas t wi th


o f the boned bi rd pl acing the e d ges down wards
,
a poached egg on top
( n o t on e on top of the o t h e r ) then fi ll u p wi th
.

T U R K E Y C RO Q UETT E S —Ta k e t h e precedin g


,

l i mpi d aspic j ell y all owing th e j e l l y to ge t b e


,

t ween each slice of turkey so th a t i n servin g ,


recip e an d when brou gh t to th e si m mer wor k
, ,

there i s n o cu t t in g to be d o n e si mpl y r e m o v ,
i n som e wel l boiled r ice so as to t horoughl y ,

ing the sl ice wi th the j elly adhering When s t i fle n i t ; then p o u r i n t o a bu t tered pan cove r

. ,
1 72 T H E C U LI NARY H AND B O OK .

ch ops remove the chi n e bone and gris tle t ri m


, ,
scall ops ; a l so abou t on e -th i rd of the a mou n t
the bon e so as to leave a h an d l e for a frill to b e si mila r cu t sca ll ops of raw ham ; fry them al l of a
placed o n when serving l ard th e flesh wi th ,
del ica te b rown color wi th cl ari fied bu t ter ; then
s trips of bacon ham tongue tru ffl e or swee t
, , , ,
pou r o fl th e su rplus a d d some bu t ton mush ,

bread and t r u fli e accor d ing t o desi re ; then p l ace room s and b rown I ta l i an sauce si m mer t il l
, .
,

i n a b r a s i e r e on a bed of s l iced roo t vegetab l es , d on e ; serve w i th th e sauce an d garn ish wi th ,

parsley sprin g on ion s cloves mace and who l e


, , ,
the mush room s O r th ey m ay be served wi th
peppe rs cover wi th sl ices of fa t bacon m ois ten
, ,
e i ther tom ato or an E spagnol e sauce and garn
to th e heigh t of the cu tle ts wi th s tock and a i s h e d wi th quenel les of vea l forcemeat .

glass of sherry win e braise til l don e ( abou t an , E M I NCE O F V E AL—For th i s di sh use the sh i n
hou r ) then serve wi th a brown I tal i an sauce
. taken from th e shoulder al so the l eg an d the ,

mushroom sau ce F in anci ere Toul ouse or , t ri m mi ngs from th e n eck an d scrag ; b oil i t i n
P erigu eux garn i tu re T hese cu tle ts af ter being . season ed s tock til l don e then all ow to become ,

braise d may be coo l ed tri m me d masked wi th


, , , cold ; cu t i t up in to s mall d ice wi th some mush
sauce then bre a d cru mbed and fried an d
, , rooms h am tongue an d tru ffles then mois ten
, , ,

serve d wi th Alle mande sauce con tain in g sca l the whol e wi th j us t en ough B é chame l s auce t o
l ops of tongue and bu t ton mush rooms Or . keep i t toge ther ; serve h eaped on a sl ice of
wi th tomato sauc e . toas t ; place a n eatl y poached and d rained e gg
V EAL C U T L E T S S A U T E ED — Take th e rib on top .

chops and t ri m as i n the precedin g recipe . C R O QU E TT E S O F VE AL T ake the par ts of


S easo n w i th sal t and pepper fry a del icate , the p reced ing recipe bu t i ns tead of cu t ting ,

bro wn on bo th sides wi th cl a rifi e d bu t ter ; when th e m al l in to d ice run the m th rough th e m i n c


,

n earl y don e take u p a n d i n th e bu t ter fry some ing m achin e m ois ten wi th enough V él o u té
,

shallo ts mush rooms a n d parsl ey then a d d some


, , sauce a n d s ti r over th e fi re t ill thoroughly
,

Espagno l e sauce b oi l u p a n d sk i m o ff the fa t


, , h eate d a n d s t i fl ; then pou r in to a bu t tered pan ,

a d d the o u tl e t s and si m me r ti l l don e ; serve s moo th wi th a kn ife cover wi th oil e d paper , ,

garnished wi th th in scall ops of f r ied h am . pu t away to become cold then for m i n to c ro ,

F R I C AND E AU O F V EAL W I T H V E GETA q u e t t e s or cu tle t sh apes b read f ry and serve , ,

B L E S —T ake th e l eg of veal an d remove the wi t h e i ther mush roo m to ma to I tal ian or Peri , ,

th ick flan k l ard i t wi th season ed s t rips o f gu eux sauces .

VEAL A ND OY ST E R P I E —F or th i s dish u se
,

bacon b rai se wi th carro t cel er y on ion s pa rs


, , , ,

l ey green on i on s an d sl ices of bacon wi th mace


, , the scrag end of the n eck an d th e m iddl e n eck
cloves and peppers in the usual way for abou t , under the shoulde r boil i n o n e pi ece i n seas ,

t wo and a h alf hours ; wh en d on e take u p , , o n e d wh i te s tock ; when do n e take up an d cool , ,

s train boil an d sk i m the brai se a d d som e


, , then cu t in to nea t shaped pieces plac e i n to the ,

she rry or M ad eira win e ; u se i t as a sauce to the pi e d ish wi th a l iberal q uan ti ty of sca l ded oys
frican d eau ; se rve garn ishe d wi th an y vege tabl e ters m ak e a good wh i te sauce from th e stock
,

garn i sh o r purée desc ribe d i n th is work I t . and oys ter l iquor season wi th sal t and n u tmeg
, ,

may al so be garn ished wi th ei ther C hipo l ata , add a l i t tl e ch opped parsl ey ; po u r over the con
F in anci ere or T oul ouse garn i tu re . ten ts of the pie dish cover wi th a good shor t ,

G REN AD I N S OF VE AL WIT H SPI NA C H pas te gl az e wi th egg wash ba k e a n d serve


, ,
.

After re movin g th e th ick fl an k for fricand eau R OAST L O I N O R N E C K O F V E AL — Take th e


from a l eg of veal you h ave the bu t tock a n d,
l oi n or n eck of veal al lowin g the tops t o be ,

ai tch bon e lef t B on e ou t the ai tch on th e l eg ;


. lon g re move the b ones and gristl e season wi th
, ,

rem ove th e m arro w bon e spl i t the b ut to ck i n ,


sal t and peppe r roll up an d ti e wi th t wine
, ,

t h e n a tu ra l sea m th en s l ice t h e t wo sec tion s


,
roas t gen tly wi th ou t dry ing the skin i n to
i n to cu tl e ts or grenadin s l ard an d braise them ; ,
s tr in gs ; serve wi th B é ch amel sauce and garn ish
serv e on a bed of pu rée of spi n ach purée w i th smal l pota to croque t tes .

o f c e l ery purée o f green peas purée of .


C R O U S T A D E OF VEA L — T ake the blanquet te
red h arico t bean s e tc , .
o f veal of a prece d ing recipe bu t cu t ting th e

B L A N Q U E T T E O F VEAL —Take cold roas t mea t i n to large d ice and serve i n c r o fis t a d e ,

o r b ra ise d veal rem ove the brown sk in and


, ,
c ases .

then cu t i n to nea t scallops a d d some bu t ton , S AL P IC ON O F N E AL—Take the em ince of vea l


m ush r oom s o r scall op s of t ru ffle o r ton gue
, , of a p receding reci pe a n d serve i t i n c r o fis ta d e
moisten the wh ol e wi th Alleman d e sauce si m , cases paper cases or s teamed and hollowed
, ,

mer ; serve garn ished wi th sm al l c roquet tes of ou t wh i te turn i ps .

ri ce o r pota toes or vea l force mea t .


B O UD IN S OF V E AL —T I M B A LE S O F V E A L
S C AL L OPS O F VE AL I T AL IA N S AU CE — Fo r .
—T ake th e rem ain s of col d veal t ri m o ff the ,

th i s d i sh use up the th ick e n d o f the loin neck , ,


skin run i t th rough the mincin g m ach in e wi t h
,

a i tchbon e o r l e g ; c u t them i n t o n ea t s haped


, s om e c ook ed b acon and bu t to n m ush rooms ,
TH E C UL I N A R Y H AND B OOK . 1 73

then mois ten wi th a ve ry l i t tl e sauce thor , season i t wi th sal t a n d pepper brush i t all ov e r ,

oughly sti r ove r the fi re t il l th ick ; bu t te r some wi th mel te d bu t ter then encl ose i t wi th a c rus t ,

t i mbal e or b o fid i n mold s l in e th e m wi th , ma d e of plai n flou r and wate r ba k e i t abou t an ,

b rowned b read c rumb s fi ll i n the m ince s team , , hou r then take u p a n d re mov e th e c rus t pl ace
, ,

the m for abou t twen ty m i nu tes then tu rn ou t , i t i n an othe r baking pan on a s tand pour in a ,

and serve wi th mushroom t oma to wh i te I tal ian , , , mel ted mi x ture of a h al f pin t each o f mel ted
brown I tal ian Perigu eu x or V é l o u t é sauces
,
. bu t te r red cu rran t j el ly a n d boil ing wate r ;
, ,

T hey m ay also be garn ished wi th fi nely sh red wi th the resi d ue of th e fi rs t pan i t was bake d
n oo d l es green peas mac ed oine or j ard in i ere
, , in i f an y fi n ish roas ting an d bas ting till don e ;
, ,

of vege tables bu t ton mush rooms e tc


, , . serve wi th the gravy from t he pan T h e sad
B R O I LED VEA L C H O PS — Use ei the r th e l oin dle or d oubl e loin i s gene ral ly encased wi th ,

or rib chops tri m season wi th sal t peppe r an d


, , ,
bu t tered paper in s tead o f th e c rus t The
T rib
nu tmeg b rush wi th bu t te r broi l a n d bas te t o a
, ,
an d l oin ch ops are gen e rally broiled and served
,

gol d en col or ; serve wi th m ai tre d h Ote l Co l ’

,
wi th a j el ly pi q uan t C ol ber t poivrade fin a n
, , , ,

be r t tomato or M a d ei ra sauces .
o i ere Por tugai se or B igarade sauces
, o r fried , ,
, ,

C U R RY OF VEAL — Fo r th i s d i sh use u p th e or sau t eed and served wi th th e same sauce s or


b r e a s t s c u t th em in to even si ze d pieces r e m o v
, ,
wi th a ches tnu t pu rée T h e sc rag and breasts .


ing the t hick bones season wi th sal t a n d pep ,
a re gen erall y formed i n to a s te w or a C IVET

pe r fry a very l igh t col or wi th clarifie d bu t te r
,
O F VE N I S ON M ade the same wa y as j ugge d .

take u p an d i n to th e bu t ter then fry a l iberal h are ( which see ) T he sh oulder o r th e whole .

amoun t of th in ly sl ice d on ions add flou r to form ,


forequar ter may be roasted a n d served wi th
a roux then t h e curry po wder t o ta s te br ing ,
poivrad e sauce and r e d cu rran t j el ly sen t to ,
,

to th e boil an d sk i m ; sim m e r for h al f an h our tabl e separa tel y T he cold coo k ed par ts lef t .

till the on ion s are well cooked then rub th rough ,


over may b e m a d e in to c roque t tes and cu tle ts
the tam is on to th e pieces of bre as t ; si mmer and served wi t h a game sauce m ad e from th e
th en t il l th e meat i s don e ; serve wi th in a border bon es s tewed d own wi th h erbs and a l i t t l e j el ly ,

a n d M a d ei ra win e T h e rough er p ar t s m ay
of rice r i s s o to macaron i spaghe t ti or n oo d les
, , ,
.
.

also be ma d e in to pie s and the cu tle t s ma d e


G AL ANT I N E O F V E AL—T ake a l arge b reas t ,

in to a good V E N I S ON P IE or pa t t ies o r vol


o f veal and remove the bone s prick i t and punch ,
a u ven ts A goo d soup i s ma d e fro m the shan ks
-

ou t the ai r i f i t h as been blown season wi th ,


.

,
shin s a n d hea d boi le d down rich fi n ished wi th
sal t pepper n u t meg and a l i t tl e powdered , ,

, ,
a l i t tle E spagn ole sauce M ad ei ra win e l emon ,
thyme all mixed toge ther then sp rea d i t w i th a ,
, ,

c ayen n e pepper ; served wi th game forcemea t


l ayer of veal forcemea t ; on i t l ay a th inl y beaten
b all s and c r o fito n s
ou t an d skinned shee t of pigs flare d o wn the
.

V E R M I CE L L I —A fi n e for m of I ta l i an pas te
,

cen tre p l ace a col u mn of r e d cooked tongue on ,

u se d i n mos t of the way s appl icabl e to maca


ei ther side of i t a smal ler col um n of cooke d
boil ed sal t pork th en sprinkle over a mi x tu re of ron i an d spaghe t ti ( which see ) .

VE RM O U T H —A for m of l i q uor cordi al ; u sed i n


,

chopped wh i tes and yolks of eggs wi th m inced


pickled gh erk i n s cover wi th an other l a ye r of ,
making mixe d drinks especially .

veal forcemea t d raw th e sides toge ther and ,


VIN EG AR— A d i stil l ed acid l i q uor of th e win e
se w i n to a n ea t r ol l wi th t win e th en t ie i n a , form ation ; used as a flavoring and a con d i men t .

clo th a n d boi l i n wh i te s tock for t wo and a hal f VOL A U V E N T —A smal l ho ll o w fo rm of pu ff


- -

hou rs take up a n d press till cold i n th e clo th


, past ry used a s a recep tacle t o vi ands
,
.

bet ween two boar d s then remov e th e cl oth , ,


WAFF L E S —A for m of b at ter cake pas try bake d
wipe c l e an gl aze ; serve i n sl ices wi th c r o fit o n s
,
i n wa ffle i ron s an d eaten gen erall y wi th p o w d
o f b righ t aspic j ell y .

ered sugar or syrup


S TEWED B REAST OF V E AL —Take the breas t
.

WALN UT A h ard she ll ed n u t the i n teri or of


-
,
of veal and boi l i t whole till tender en ough to
wh ich i s used for desser t candies e tc When , .

take ou t the bones then l e t become cold c u t ,


,
,
p l ucked green they are u sed as a p ickle after
in to eve n si zed p iece s an d s te w i t i n a sauce
goin g through th e pick l in g process .

made f ro m th e l iquor i t was b oile d in ; serve


wi th a garn ish of green peas l i m a bean s ch ip , ,
WH I T E FIS H —A deliciou s fi sh ob tain ed i n our
o l a ta garn i ture gla zed carro ts mush rooms, , ,
l ak es I t m ay be cooked and se rved i n al l the
.

force mea t ba l l s fried oys ters cau l iflowe r smal l , ,


way s appl icable to ou r l ak e trou t .

WOO D C O C K —A de l iciou s ga m e bi rd ; cooked


,

whi te turn ips rice m ush rooms , , .

VEN IS ON —T h e flesh of th e dee r T he l e g and . a n d serve d i n all the ways of small game bi rds d e

saddl e are u s uall y roasted T o roas t th e l eg . ,


scribed i h th i s work .
I N D E X T O T H E C U LI N A R Y H A N D B O O K .
Pa g e Pag e
A b s i n th e e e e o o OO OO Q O OCC e c o c o o o o o o l & 65 Ap ri c o t Ba va r i a n c re a m
Ac e t ic ac id . 1 i
p a t t e s o r vo l a u -v e n t s
-
4 s au s ag e .

A c i d ac e t i c
,
. 1 s au c e . s au c e
58 s h er be t 4 B aya r d ( g a r n is h )
t a r t ar c i . 167 4 B a y l e ave s
Ad m i r a l 85 Ap r i c o t s B e an s
Ad m i r a l s a u c e 1 55 4 B e an p u r e e 9
A e r a t e d wa t e r s
Af r ic a i n e ( g a rn i s h ) . . 86 a la
A i g re t t e s a n c h o v y ,
1 nu 4 B e c h a me l 7 0 & 1 55
Al b e rt s a u c e Wi t h r ce i Be e f 10
1 a nd r c e i f ri t t e r s b a ro n 7
Al c o h o l 1 on bo led i 10
Al g e ri e n n e 1 17 Ar t i c h o k e bo tt o m e
. b ra is e d c orn e d 10
A l k e r me s 65 wi t h f o i e g ra s . 5 bou i l l o n w th c i ru s t s 13
85 w i t h f o r c e m e a t. 4 Be e f . b raise d , c l Al l eman d e

11
Al l e man d e s a u c e 1 55 wi t h 5 a l a Ba d e n
Al l ig a to r p e ar . 1 wit h r a g o u t. 5 a l a B ig n o n n e 12
s a l ad . 150 l tu

fle d . a l a. B o u r g e o s e i l l
1 A rt i c h o k e
i
f r t t e rs l l

a n d o n i o n s a l ad a la Mi l an a ise 11
A l mo n d s au c e 12
Alu m a

l Ors i n i 11
A l u me t t e s , a n d t o m at o a l a P i e mo n t a i s e . l l
An c h o v e s i I O Q C O Q O O O Ar tic h o ke s a l a Pro v e n c a l e 12
b o u c h e e of . . O O O O O O O O O O O a i n B ari g o u l e
. a i la R c hel eu i l l
i
w t h o l ve s i b oil ed Ge r m a n 11
Wi t h w i t h r a vi o l i s 1l
An c h o vy f am i l y s ty l e .
Be e f , b r a i s e d s i r l o i n o f g ar n i s h e d , . 11
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .
g ra t i n . . wi t h h o r s e r a d 12
a la wi t h m u s h r m s l l
2 & 26 “
pu re e wi t h q u e n e l l e s l l
c a
nap es s c al l o pe d wi t h r i c e c r o
i
a l a So u b s e qu ot tes 11
2 As p ar a g u s wi t h s p v e g i s 1 1 .

2 a n d c au l i fl o we r s a l a d wi t h s t u fl e a
2 wi t h c h e e s e p o ta t o e s 12 ”

2 omele t .
wi t h s nu fl e d
o me l e t . 2 p at t ie s tomatoe s 12
2 p o i n t s wi t h q u e n e l l e s 6 wi t h t r u ffl e s 11 .

p u re e 6 Be e f , b r i s k e t o f wi t h v e g e t a b l e s
, 10
2 p u re e o f b r o th wi t h c e l e r y 13
s al ad 6 1 50 wi t h r i c e 13
2 a n d s al mo n s al ad 6 c a k e s wi t h e g g i t
t art ines 1 sau c e H ol l and a se i 6 c h i p p e d i n c re a m 10 .

t o as t 1 sou p 6 c o l l o p s wi t h m u s h r o o m s 13 .

An d al o u se ( g arn is h ) 85 5 c o r ne d 10
An d a l u s i a n s au c e . asp c i . 6 c r o q u e t t e s wi t h p e a s 13
Ang e l f o o d . je ll y 6 c u rr i e d wi t h r i c e 14
An ge l ic a m ayo n n ai s e . 107 c u t l e t s wi t h p i q u a n te s au c e 14 . .

A n gl a is e ( g At e l e tt e 6 d e v i l l e d wi t h o y s t e r s 14
An i l i n e . At te re au x . 6 d rie d ( s mo k ed ) 10
2 Au j u s 86 e m i n c e o f wi t h p as s , 15
An i s e e d e x tr c t . a Au r o r a sa u c e . 155 B e s t . fi l l e t. o f , a l ’ A n d a l o u s e ” 12
A u ro r e ( g ar n s h ) i 85 a l a B a ya rd . 12
A p p l e b a v a ro i s e . 2 A i
v g n on s au c e 1 55 a l a Ch a t e a u b r a n d i 15
B ab a 6 a l a. J a r d l n i e r e 12
c ake Ba c o n 7 s a u c e pr o v e n c a l e . 13
c h a rl o t e t 3 c oate d o y s te rs , fr ie d 12 2 w t h s t r n g b e an s i i 13
c h e e s ec ak es B ag r a t o n i a l a T a l l e yr and “ . 12
B a l n -m a r e i . fl
B e e f an k o f E n g l s h s t y l e i . 11
B eef f r , izz
l e d o n t o a s t. . 10
B all o ti ne z i
B e e f , g l a e d r b s o f , w t h m ac aro n i i . . 11
Ba n a n a s . w t h p o t a t o c ro i
c ro qu e t t e s . baked q u e t te s l l
c u sta rd . w th ve g e t a b l e s11 i
i t
f r t e rs . f r ed i B e e f h as h 15
pie 14
ic e c re a m r i
Be e f h e a t . b o l e d . w t h h o r s e r a d s h 1 6 i i
16
B e ef k id n ey s au te 16
i
f r t t e rs . . 3 & 83 sou p 16 .

ice Be e f , m n c e d w t h i . 14 i
B aro n o f b e e f i t
m r o o n o f , w t h ve g e t a b l e s 15 i .

B as l i a l a mo d e 10
p a t t i e s wl t h m u s h r o o m s 14
p a n c ak e s . 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 . o o e o o o e n o o s o o b ak e d i
p au p e t t e s , m u s h ro o m s a u c e 14 . .

p c kl ng i i . 13 0
p u d d ng i . -0 0 0 0 b ra s e d i p o t p ie 14
p u ff s . b ro l e d i p o t t e d , f o r s a n d wl c h e s . . 15
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 r a g o u t o f , Cr e o l e 16
a l a Co n d e . i
r s s ol e s . 14
sou p c ro q u e t te s . 14
r o a s t. 10
a la 13
'

s a u te s a u s ag e s 16 13 8
b aked t
B at e r s a u te of t r u ffl e s a u c e .
. 15
OOOOOOOO f or bu k wh e a t c a k e s
c . s c al l o p e d w t h o s te rs i y . 14
for c o r n gr d d l e c a k e s i s c al l o ps o f s au c e T r an o n . . . i 15
Po r t u g e s e st yl e for fl a n n e l g r d d l e c a k e s i s c ra m b l e d w t h e g g s i 10
Ap ric o t i Fr
m
b ava r o s e f or e n c h p an c akes s h o r tri b s . 10
Oi
. .

f or i
f r y n g s we e t. f o o d s a t f ru t is B e e f , s m al l l le fiof , a t e d h te ts i r 15
c om po te f or f ry ng i
e g e tab l e s v ” w t h o ys e s i t r 15
f or g ra h a m g r d d l e i B i
e e f s an d w c h e s . s m o k e d 10
c h a r t re u s e for i
r c e g r d d l e c akes i . B e e f , s m o k e d , wi t h s p n a c h i . 10
f or i
S w s s p a n c ak e s Be e f sou i
p , E n g l s h a n d Sc o c h t . 13
j el l y O ' C O O Q O O O O O O O O I O Q f o r wh e a t g r d d l e i c ak e s Bee f ,
15
m a rm a l a d e f o r Y o rk s h e ir 15
1 76

so P ag e
Ca l f ’
s b ra i n s p a r s l e y
, 25 39
s au c e 24 39
s a vo r y o m e l e t o f 25 Ca t s u p , h ovy .
i t
an c
u
a n d t o n g u e , m u s h r m s o 24 s a u t e , v n a gr e t t e . i i 32 m u s h r oo m 109
i
e a r s , b o l e d , s a u c e vi l l e r o i 29 Ca l i f o r n i a s h o u l d e rs . p c k l n g of i i 1 32 13 1

Ca l f s . . .

i
f r e d , t om at o s au c e 29 Ca l i p e e a n d 2 8 Ca u l ifl
o we r , b a k e d .

rago u t o f , i n c ro u s a d e s . 2 9 t Ca m b r d g e i s au s a g e . i
bo l ed , H ol l and a is e s au c e 40
s t u fl e d , s au c e b o r d e l a s e 2 9

i c re a m
i t
w t h r u f e s , s c t r a n o n 30 fl . i . Ca n a p e s . fr ie d a l l e m an d e
, s au c e .

Ab e r d e e n wi t h
Ca l f s f e et, p ic k l e d

i
b o l e d , p o vr a d e s a u c e 30i . Be rn e . i
o r Sw s s c an a pe s p u re e of
c r e p i n e t t e s , s o p r o v c a l e 30 i

Ca b l l a u d . s a l ad
c ro u s tad e s 30 o f c a vi a r
i
f r c as s e c h as s e u r
i n b a t t e r , I t a l a n s a u c e . 30 i c h eese

wi h m u t shr

m pou l e tt
, sc . o f c h c k e n l ve rs i i c a n a pe s o f
t e ame d s e
s , . re mo u l ad e 30 . o f c rab . . 35 68 c ro u s t a d e s
Cr e o l e wi t h e gg
wi t h b a c o n p ar s l e y s c . I nc l an . e ggs s u t ff e d w t h i “

b a k e d wi t h c h i p o l a t a g a r Lo re n z o t art n e s i
E n gl i s h s t yl e 28 M a d is o n . o n to as t wi t h o l ve si
G e r ma n s t yl e 28 Ce l e r a ci .

s a u c e m a in t e n o n 28 . . o l ve i Ce l e r y
b o il e d s au c e vi n a ig re t t e
, 29 of r
o an ge s . b ak ed , w h c h ees e it .

a n d b rai n s m u s h r o o m s o
, 28 . of y
o s ters i
b o l e d , w th o n on s i i .

s a u c p o i vr a d e 29 of p o t t e d h am i
b r a s e d . o n to a s t . .

b r a i s e d .wi t h v e a l q u e n l s 2 8

of t
po t e d o n g u e t c o n somme .
c u r r i e d wi t h r i c e 29 c re am o f
i
w t h fin a n c e rs r ag o u t 28 i . s a vo r y . i
f r e d , s a u c e vi l l e r o i .

f ri e d , t o m a t o s au c e 28 .

i
f r c a s s e e o f , wi t h ve g b l e s 2 9

of s h r m ps i wi t h m a r ro w . .

i
w t h o l i v e s ,t o m a t o s a u c e 2 9 of s m o k e d s al m o n m a yo n n a i s e

28 p u re e o f
sou p, P o rt u g e s e 29 Win c h e s t e r and oni o ns
wi t h q u e n e l l e s 29 Ca n a r d s al ad s
s t u ff e d , s au c e p api l o tte . 29 i
Ca n d e d p e e l f r t t e r s i s au c e , b r o wn and wh i t e .

and tongu e , p i qu an t e sc . 28 Ca n n e d s a u te
rag o u t of . 29 Ca n n e l o n s s t e we d , o n to as t
t u ~t l e s t y l e Ca n t e l o u p e s
Ca l f s h e a r t , l a r d e d .s a u c e A n d a l o u s e

30 i
b ro l e d , o n to a s t
s t u fl ed an d 30 Ca p e r o me l e t w t h i
M a d i e ra 30 f or fis h . s a u t e o f , o n to a s t

i
Ca i f s k d n e y s , b r o i l e d , p a rs l e y b u t t e r r i zi
3 0 Ca p e c a l e . . s t e we d , o n t o a s t . .

c ro q u e t t e s w t h p e a s i . 3 1 Ca p o n s . Ce r c e l l e s
i n c ro u s t ad e s . 31 i
b o l e d s tu fle d , c e l e r y s au c e 37 Ce r e a l i n e
f r e d . s au c e c o l be rti . 31 i
w th m l an a s e g a r n s h i i i . 37 i
Ce r s e s g l a c e s a l a Ch a n l l y ti
l a r d e d , Ma d e r a s a u c e i 30 m u s h ro o m s a u c e . 37 v
Ce r e a u x
e u b e u rre n o r i
omel e t w t h s al t p o rk i 37 e n c o q u l l e an g rat n i i
patt es of i it
w h t o n g u e c a u l o we r ifl 37 Ce r ve l a s
r ag o u t i
b ra s e d , w t h c h po l a t a g a rn s h i i i 37 r
Ce v e l a t s a u s a g e , B r u n s w c k i .

s u te s w t
a h mu s h r m s

i 30 i
w th qu e ne l l e s , s au c e Ce r v e l a t p o l s e o r D a n s h b e e f i an
l f
'
i r
Ca s l v e a n d b a c o n w t h s p n a c h i i 31 pe gu eu ri x . 37 r
p o k s a u s ag e
i
b ro l e d , I ta l a n s a u c e i 31 s au c e s u p re m e 37 r
Ce v e l l e s
i
b ra s e d . w t h v e g e t a b l e s i 31 w h t o m at o e d r c e it i 37 Ch a b l s i
it
w h c r s pe d o n o ns i i 31 r
o a s t , w t h n oo d l e s i . 37 Ch a d e a u
i
f r e d , w t h fi ne h erbs i . . 31 s tu fle d , g b l e t s au c e i 37 Ch a fi n g d s h i
pot ed , w t h asp c t i i 32 w th i 37 Ch a m b o r d ( g a n s h ) r i .

qu e ne l l e s in c ru mb s 3 2 Ca p o n , s t e we d , w t h e ge t ab l e s i v 37 s au c e
31 3 7 Ch a m p a g n e
s c al l o p s o f , wi t h m u s h r 'm 31 37 s au c e
wi t h s mo t h e re d 31
s t e we d w thi on ons i 3 1 Ca r b o n a d e Ch a n t l l y i .

i
t m b a l e o r, p i q u a n t s au c e 32 c re am
Cs l f ’s s we e t b r e a d s , b l a n qu e tt e 33 ( garn s h ) i sou p
b ra i s e d g a r n i s h e d . “ . 33 s au c e
wi t h s o r r e l ” 33 Ca r d o o n s Ch a r l o t t e .

b ro i l e d s au c e c o l b e rt
, i
3 2 Ca r m n e
wi t h b r o w n 32 38 p e ac h
in c as e s b ak e d , s au c e g e n o s e c h erry
c as se rol e 33 s a u c e m a t e l o te 38
wi t h c re am

d mu sh

m 84 i
b o l e d , c ap er s a u c e .
p e ac h .

in c re am , o n 32 i
b r a s e d s t u fl e d s a u c e a l l e m an d e , 38 Ch a s s e u r
r q
c o u e t te s w th p e as i 32 i
b r o l e d s t u fl e d , fi n e s -h e r b e s s e . 39 s au c e .

c ro u s t ad e o f c u rr e d i . 33 l e m o n p ar s l e y 38
c u t l e t s o f .wi t h v e g b l

33 i
f r e d , p qu a n e s a u c e i t . s au c e
wi t h d e m i g l a c e -
3 3 Ca r p r o e s , b o l e d , s a u c e i 38
f ri e d , m u s h r m s a u

ce 34 f r e d , s au c e i 38 s au c e
s au c e pe r gu e u i x 32 p att es of i 38
s au c e vi l l e ro i . 34 s c a 110 p e d , i n s h e l l . 38 b ra n d e d i
wi t h fi n an c e r rag ou t i 3 3 Ca r p s a u t e , a d m r a l s au c e i 38 i n c ro u s t a d e s
F e
.

g la ed , z
re n c h b e a n s 33 Ca r r o s t z
g l a e d . w t h wh p p e d c i i r am .

k ro me s k e s o f i 34 i
c u rr e d , w t h r c e i i . 3 9 Ch e r r y c h a r l o t t e
l ard e d a n d b ra s e d , i i
b r a s e d n e w , p a r s l e y s au c e 38 c ob b l er
m u s h ro om s au c e . 33 z
g l a e d n e w, w t h b u t t e r i . 39 c o mp ote
l ar d e d , s a u c t o u l o u s e 33 n e w , i n b r o wn g r a v y . fi a wn . .

i
p a t t e s o f , s c ram b l e d 33 i n c re a m . f t ers ri t
r a g o u t o f .wi t h m o r e l s 34 po u l e tt e s au c e jel l y
34 p u re e o f
i
r s s o l e s o f .v e g e t a b l e s 32 s a l a d w h a s p a ag u s t p s it r i m e r i n gu e
s au t e o f , wi t h b ak e d s au c e
t o m a t oes 34
s au te s w t h i . 32 s ou p p u d d ng i
s c al l o p e d . 33 s t e we d , wi t h gr e e n p e as r o l y -p o l y . .
i n shell ” s au c e
s t e we d , k i d n e y b e a n s 34
i mb a l e o f
t . 33 t ar t s
b r a i s e d t o ma t o s au c e t rl fl o

Ca l i s t o n gu e , ,
. 32 o p c o
G I 77
Pa g e P ag e
. i
4 5 Ch c k e n g b l e t s s e we d i t , wi t h 54 Ch o u x d e b ru x e l l e s
gu mb o ” 55 c r o u t o ns .

i
Ch c k e n h a l b u t i . . 93 Ch o u x p a s t e-
. .

54 Ch o w
h am a n d t o ng u e s a u s ag e . 140 Ch o wd e r . c l a m
i
h a r c o t o f , w th vege ta b l e s i . 48 c o d fis h 61
i
h a s h w t h p e p p e rs o n t o a s t . 13 Ph l a d e l p h i ia . c lam . 58
i
w t h s t u fi e d p e p p e rs

53 57
k ro m e s k e s , s a u c e i 51 3
c o t ag e t l e g s , b o l e d . w t h g re e n i i 52 i
C de r 57
c u s t a rd d ev l l ed , w th bac on i i 50 57
fi n g e rs i i
Ch c k e n l ve r s , b r o c h e t t e o f . 22 x t ra c t o f
e . 81
c a n a pe s o f 35 018 00 57
i
f r t t e rs i n c as e s 54 b ro i l e d l e m o n p a r s l e y s a u c e
, . . 57
g ru y e e r f o rc e m e a t 54 fil l e t s o f i n b at t e r , ” 57
i
l ve , I ta l r ian st yle o me l e t o f . 54 s a u t e j u l i e n e p o t a to e s
,
n 57
ro a s t , o n t o a s t 54 Ci t r i c a c i d . 53
s a u te to a s t 54 Ci t r o n 58
p a rme s a n s te we d , w i t h m u s h rs 54 . E
po te d t Ch ic k e n , Ma r y l a n d s t yl e . 48 Ci v e t o f ve n i s o n .

58
ra m e q u i n s . m a yo n n a i s e 56 33 1 51 53
s a n d wi c h e s a l a. 58
m i n c e d , wi t h p o ac h e d e gg 53 ts
s c a l 10 p s . . p a n a d a wi t h eg gs o n o as t t 53 60
sou fii e s 51 59
s t r a ws c ro qu e t t e s 58
i
p e s , s m al l , re n c h s t yl e F f o rc e me at 59
Ch e e s e c a k e s , ap pl e t
p o t e d . f o r s an d w c h e s i f ri c a s s s e e o f 58
Ch e m s e i 53
f ri t t e r s . 58
qu e n e l l e
f o c e me at r ro as t
d ev l l ed i wi t h m u s h r o o m s 51 58
i
w t h t r u fii e s s c s u p e m e 5 3 r sou p 59
ree o i!
pu 47
sou p i
r ss ol e s o f . s t e w.
Ch e v r e u i l s a u c e ro as t b o n e d . Cl a r e m o n t
wi t h m u s h r m s 8t b r e a d s c 48

Ch i c k e n , b l a n c h e d w t h v e l o u t e s a u i c 48 o ys te s au c e 47 r Cl o v e s 9
b l a n q n e t t e o f , w t h t r u fii e s i . . s a l ad 56 12 1 xt ac t o f
e r .
81
i
b o l e d l ar d e d , w t h m a c a r o n ” i i i
s al p c o n o f , w t h p o at o e s 51 i t Cl u b c h e e s e 44
wi t h salt p o rk , p ars l e y s e s a u s a ge s , s au c e Ho l l a n d a s e 53 i . Co b b l e r . . . 59
wi t h v g b i , a l l e m a n d e s o 50 i
Ch c k e n , s a u t e o r. w t h b o u c h e e s i a p pl e

e 51 . .

wi t h m u s h r o o m s 48 . 45
b ou c h ee of 20 wi t h o y s t e r s
i
Ch c k e n , b r a s e d i
fi l l e t s o f H a n o ve r s o 49 w t h po t a o b a l s i
53 t i Co b l e n z s a u s ag e . 139
w t h g r e e n p e p p e rs 49i w t h r c e and i
53 i 59
48 wi t h Co c h o n 59
50 59
w t h ve ge t a b l e s i 50 . s mo t h e re d Co c k -a -l e e k i e 55
Ch ic k e n , b r e as t o f , s t e a m e d , s au c e so u ifi e s o f i
Co o k e -l e e k i e sou p 59
s u pre m e 52 Ch . . ic k e n s ty l e
s o u p , Cre o l e 59
59
wit h n o o d l e s

h u n t e r s s t yl e u 48 Co c k s k e r n e l s 59
Ch ic ke n r b o t h w t h a rt c h o k e s i i . 56 wi t h p e a s 59
w t h a s para g u s i . 56 Po r t u g u e s e c l am
w th i 55 wi t h r i c e a n d e e k s . N e ptu ne . 60
w i t h 0n 1 o n s . So u t h e r n s t y l e 60
wi t h p o a c h e d T u rk is h s t y l e 59
59
wi t h 56 Ch i c k e n s p i t c h c o c k e d c r a p a u d i n e s o 49 Co c o t t e
, , 59 .

wi t h s i
p r n g ve ge t a b l e

56 Ch i c k e n s t e we d w i t h d u m p l i n g s
, , 49 Co d b o i l e d s a l t c r e a m s a u c e “61 .
, ,
.

Ch ic ke n 35 wi th 50 c r e a m e d f re s h on 60 ,

c a nn e l o n o f , t a a s au c e . rt r 53 G e r ma n s t y l e 51 c rimpe d s h imp s au c e 61 . r .

c ap l o t a d e i Me x ic a n s t yl e 49 c u t l e t f rie d p iqu an te s au c e 60 , .

c h a r t r e u s e o f , wi t h s t r i n g b e a n s 50 wi t h r i c e 49 an 61
c h au d f ro d o f i s a u c e p ro ve n c a l e 52 a n d oys te r p ie 12 3 . .

Fr e n c h
. .

i
w t h c h e s t n u t p u e e a nd ve g ’ b l s r 48 s a u c e ra v ig o te 52 61
m i l e ps o f , w t h m a c aro n i i . 54 Sp a n i s h 47 Co d s r o e s b o i l e d b t t e r s a u c e 61 ’
, ,
u . .

c o n s o m me . wit h 47 b ro i l e d b u t t e r 61 .
Ch i c k e n , c r e am o f 55 T u rk is h s tyl e 47 f ri e d c a p e r s a u c e 61 ,
.

wi t h q u e ne l l e s 55 Ch i c k e n s t u fi e d w i t h c h e s t n u t s M a , 61
wi t h i
r ce 55 d e i ra s a u c e 47 Go d s a l t s h r e d d e d a n d 61 , ,

wi t h t o m a toe d b re a s t o f c u c u m b e r s 52 s c al lo p e d
, 61
55 s c p e r i g u e u 52 s c r a mb l e d o n t o a s t
. 61 .

Ch i c k e n c ro q u e t t e s 46 s t e we d s c m i l a n a i s 4 9 Co d s s o u n d s f r i c a s s e e o f wi t h o y s t rs 61
, .

, ,

c ro u s t a d e s o f .
53 s u p r e m e o f w i t h r i c e p e i g u e u x 47 , s t u ff e d o y s t e r
. r 61 ,

c u r r 1e d wi t h r 1 c e , . 49 wi t h t o u l o u s e r a g o u t 47 Co d s t e a k b o i l e d wi t h a n c h o v i e s , .
Ch i c k e n c u t l e t s w i t h g r e e n p e a s . 50 t i m b a l e s o f wi t h f o rc m e a t b a l l s 53 b r e a d c r u m b e d p a r s l e y s e 60 .
m i n c e d ao b o r d e l a i s e . 46 v o l e u v e r t o f wi t h q u e n e l l e s
-
51 , b ro i l e d c o l b e r t s a u c e 60 .

of Wi t h v e g e t a b l e s . ” 47 Ch i c o r y .
46 & 8 0 c u rr i e d wi t h . 60 .

Ch i c k e n e p i gr a m m e o f t o m a t o s a u c e
, , 48 s a l ad . 1 50 f ri e d t o m at o s a u c e 60 , .

C h i c k e n fi l l e t s o f wi t h a s p a r a g u s p t s
, 50 Ch i fi o n a d e
, . . s a u te , c lu b st yle . 61
wi t h c a r d i n a l s a u c 52 Co d fi s h 60
Ch i c k e n f o r c e m e a t 50 & 8 2 Ch l s a u c e i i . 60
b a l l s c u r r i e d , wi t h r c e 50 i stu fied

wi t h 60
f r e d , o m a to i 53 t
( ga rn s h ) i . 60
i
Ch c k e n , f r i c a s s e e o f 46 Ch v e s i b a il s 61
z
.

Ch i c k e n t r i e d .
4 6 C h i vr y i
b o l e d , e gg 60
i n b a t t e r , t o m a t o s a u c e 48 Ch o c o l a t e
b r e a s t o f , c o r n f t t e s 52 b l anc ri r 61
w t h c u c u m b e r p u re e i 49 c ak e . h a s h , s a l t , N e w E n g l a n d s ty l e . 62
f ri c a s s e e 47 s al ad . 150
49 s c al l o p e d f re s h . 61
wi t h r c e a n d o k as 52 i
c u p c u s ar d s r . t . Co d fi s h t o n g u e s , b o l e d , e g g s a u c e i 61
Ch i c k e n f r i t te r s . p q u a n e s a u c e 53 i t p at t e s i . 62
s c al i o pe d f re s h
i
g ble ts , r ago u t of wi t h po t at o 62
c ro qu e t te s 62
p u d d i ng ’ . o o o o o o o o o o o o o 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 62
-D
1 78 C
Pag e P ag e P ag e
COl b Ol t -

u u n n u n 62 Co n s o mm e t r o i s r a c i ne s . 65 Cr e a m e d f e s h r
sau ce wi t h t u r n i ps 65 m a c aro n i . 1 04
so u p . 65 o n on s i . 1 18
Co l e sl aw .. vo l a il l e 65 o ys t e r s o n t o a s t 12 3
i
Co m b n a o n s a l a d s ti . 15 4 Co q ” . 65 Cr e c y '
11

Co m p o t e de B ru y e re . . 65 Cr e o l e c a n a p e 35
a pp l e . 65
b an an a 65
b l ac k b e rr y 18 Co r b e l l e i 71
of 18 65 71
c her y r 45 Cr e p l n e t t e s . 71
Co r n 66 C re s s .
7]
127 b at te r c a k e s . 66 s al ad 1 1
of 1 33 Co r n e d b e e f h a s h . 15 Cr e s s o n 71
Co n d e . . 62 Co r n b l a n c m a n g e 66 Cr e t e s d e c o q 59
83 b re ad j o b n n y c a k e o r . c o rn d o d g r 66 t
Cr e ve t e s a u c e 1 57
Co n g e r e e l , b o l e d . a l l e m a i
n d e s au c e 78 d od g er 66 71
c u rr e d w t h i78 i
f r tte rs i .66 8: 8 3 Cr o q u e n bou c h e e s . . 57
f rie d , t a r t a r s au c e 78 g e m s o r m u ffi n s 66 71
ro as t s t u fi e d , a d m r a l s c
'
18

i
p u d d ng , g rat e d
. i 67 ap pl e . . 3
Co n s o m m e 62 g d d le c ak es ri . 8 b as s 8
i i
Af r c a n e . .62 hu ll ed 66 b ee f , w t h pe as i . 13
and al ou s e 62 Co r n m e a l o r I n d a n p u d d i in g 66 i
b r a n , wi t h p e a s . 24
Angl a s e i . 62 g ru e l 66 c h c ke n i 46
i
w t h a s p ar ag u s t p s 65 i mu sh
. 66 c l am . 58
i
b a g ra t o n 62 Co r n m u ff n s i 68
h a r ig o u i e 63 m u sh f r ed i of h am w t h g r e e n i 94
63 i n e ar , ro a s t . . 67 h om in y . . . 96
63 s a l ad . 67
63 67 m a c a r 0n i . . . 104
63 s t arc h 67 o ys te r 12 3
i e
.

Pe r i g u e u x
.

63 s t e we d . Cr e o l e s t y l e 67 p art r d g s au c e .

4 1 81 63 a n d toma o t 67 p o rk , a n c h o v y 1 36
63 w a hl e s

66
63 Co t e l e t t e s r cei
Co t t a g e c h e e s e 43
5 5 Co u r t b o u i l i o n 67 s tu fi e d po tato
c h i fi o n ad e . 63 s au c e 1 57 o f s we e t b r e a d s
i
w th c hou x 63 Cr a b a p p l e s 69 t u rke y
63 Cr a b s . 67 o f ve a l
c o l b e rt b ak e d ( 8 Cr o u s t a d e s 71
65 b squ e o f i 17 69 40
63 b u t te re d 67
w h it 63 67 o f p ar r d g e t i 12 6
63 c an a pe s of ric e . 1 49
65 Cr e o l e s t y l e . . 68 Cr o u e -e u t 71
63 c ro q u e t e s t . . 68 Cr o u t o n s 71
68 Cu c u m b e r s
'
d Or s a y c ro u s t a d e o f . 71
63 68 b l a nq u e t t e o f . 71
63 e m nc e of i 68 71
Du c h es s e 63 f o r c e m e at 68 c u rr e d i 71
e p c u re i 64 f r t e rs i t 68 72
Ga m b e t t a 64 g u mb o ( s o u p ) . . 68 71
64 k ro me s k e s i . . 68 71
64 o me l e t 68 g l a e d , o n t o as t z 71
64 qu e e n s t y l e 68 k e tc h u p 72
l nd e nne i 64 a l a Re ne i 68 a n d o n io n s a l a d 72
62 63 & l 5 1 72
64 69 7]
64 s a u s ag e s 68 s al ad
64 68 s au c e 157
Ku rs e l . . 64 s t e w. 68 t
s u ff e d , w t h f o r c e m e a t i . . 71
64 Cu m n i .
72
64 to as t 67 Cu p c u s t a rd s , c h oc o l t a . a . 57
m ag e n t a 64 t o m a t o e s s t u fi e d wi t h 68 96
M a r i e St u a rt . . 64 Cr a n b e r r i e s 69 Cu a c o a r . 65 72
Mas s e na 64 Cr a n b e r r y jam 69 158
M e fic i s 64 69
64 72
64 69 Cu r r a n t s 72
M o n t m o re n c y 64 s au c e . 1 58 72
64 t artle t tes 7 0 Cu r r y .
72
64 Cr a p a u d n e i 70
i
N l ss on 64 o f ve al . . 17 3
n i ve r n a i s e . 64 Cr a yfi s h 70 72
wi t h 64 i
b squ e o f 17 a pp le 3
64 b u t te r . 26 c heese 44

65 i
ta l s, bou c hc e of 20 f r t e rs i t . 83
p at e d I tal ie . 65 b r oc h e t te 23 158
65 Cr e a m 1 49
p aysa nn e 65 a n c h o vy 2 Cu t l e s t . 72
w th i 65 a p pl e 3 7 2 35 157
i
po sson 65 B a va r a n i . 70 72
Prin c e de Gal l e 65 of c au l o we ifl r 40 D a n d e l o n i .
73
65 of 41 s al ad 15 1
p ri n t a n i e r e . 65 c h an t l l y i i
42 D a n s h b e e f a n d p o r k s a u sage 13 7
ro yal 65 Cr e a m o f c h c k e n i ” 55 i
l ve r s a u s ag e 1 33
wi h t 65 w th i q u e n e l l es 55 s m o k e d s a u s ag e . 1 37

65 w th i i
r ce . 55 73
65 Cr e a m . c h o c o l a e t 57
wi t h 65 o f c i ams . . 59 d e s au mo n . 73
65 d r e s s ng i D ’A r t o i s . 73
65 f r t te rs i r i
( ga n sh ) 86
65 l emon Da t e s . 73
St . 65 o f l e nt l s i 100 D a t e p u d d i n g
65 81 7 0 D a u b e 73
65 s au c e 70 D a u p h i n e 73
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g ap e . 90 r .

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.

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Gr d d l e 3 e rr n g . 95 H i
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h u n te rs s t yl e 9 1 H o e c ak e s . wi t h fi a e 97 .

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92 c ro qu e t e s o f s we e t b r e a d s . 167 t .

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s s s o o s o o o s o s s o1 46 K u m m e l i . .

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ro a s t l ar d e d 92 H o t p o t o r 98
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s au c e B e ar n a is e . 92 H u l l e d b r a ‘s e d O O O O Q O O O OO Q O '
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La m b . o u n led s s s s s 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 98 Lo b s t e r s o u p , Cr e o l e s le ty s s s

o u t l e ts M ar ner 8 s ti yl e Me ri n g u O Q O O O O O O O O O O U O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O . 107
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s c al l o ps o f , wi t h r ce i . . 99 and c h e ese, re n c h s t y l e F th ic k 29
pla n i Mo l a s s e s 108
99 c re am e d Mo n tp e l i e r b u t te r
s we e t b r e a d s i n c a ses 99 wi t h e ggs Mo s a i c s a u s a g e 139
La r d i n g 13 1 Cr e o l e st yl e M u fifl n s ,
La rk s b o u c h e e
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L a s ag n e s wi t h fi s h fi a k e s M u l l i g a t a wn y , l o b s t e r 1 03
Le e k . Mu sc a l i o n g e 109
sou p, Sc o t c h sty 99 M u s h ro o m s 108
Le e k s , wi t h h a m b a k e d , o n to a s t O O O O O O O O O Q O O O 108
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c re a m . 100 b ro l e d i 11 8
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o yste r c at su p 1 09
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f r c ass e e o f 108 St 1 69
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an d t o m a t o e s ( b r o wn a n d wh t e ) 1 61 i
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b ak e d s t u fi e d s t u fi e d , Cr e o l e s t y l e 108
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L e v e r p o i s e o r l ve r s a u s a g e i . 137 . 105 b ro c h e t e o f t
2 2 a 109
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bo led i 105 fis h e rm an s yl e - 109 t O Q O Q I Q O O C Q

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f r c as s e e o f 109 O O O O O O O O O O l C

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of 146 b u t t e re d 1 05 p a n r o as t o f 109
81 152 fi l l e ts o f . 105 s au c e 1 09
s au t e . 8 f ri e d , 105 s au te s o f fin e h e rb s 11 9
101 105 s c al l ope d 1 09
L i me s Ma d e i r a 105 s t e a m e d , l e m o n b u t te r s au c e 1 09
L i m b u rg e r c h e e s e . 43 s au c e s t e we d . 11 9
L i ve r 101 1 05 M u s a rdt 1 10
c h e e s e , I ta l an s t yl e i 31 a n d c re s s 1 10
c i
u rr e d , w t h f o rc e m e a t i . 101 t
Mu to n 1 10
f o rc e me a t i
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f r ed , i w th t u rn ps i1 11 i
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M u o n , b a s e d b r e a s t o f , I a l a n s c 1 11 t i
p igs i
b ro l e d , m a t e d h o te l ir 106 l ard e d l e g of

. 1 10
p u d d ng i fil l e t s o f g ame . 106 l eg of 1 10
r ag ou t o f 101 i
f r e d , o ra n g e s a u c e 1 06 w t h b e an s 1 10 i
a n d s a l t p o rk 101 s al mis o f . 106 w th v e g e t bl sl l l

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p r o ve n c a l e s t y l e . 105 b o ne d l o n o f i
s au s ag e ro a s t Am e r c a n s t y l e i . 105 st u fie d l eg o f 1 10
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106 i
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M a r i n i e re ( g a r n i s h ) 87 c as s e r o l e s o f 1 12
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tt “
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c h eese . 101 119 w t h g l a e d n e w c a ro t s 112 i z


peac h . . 12 7 w t h p e as p u r e e i
112
c u rr e d i 146 w th po t at o b o r d e r i
1 12
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b ou c h ee wi t h . . 20 So u t h e r n s t y l e 1 12
. 1 02 M a rzi p an . . w t h t r u fil e s i
1 12
an 106 Mu tton , c o a ed c u t le t s of t 1 12
m a yo n n a i s e M a te l o t e . 87 1 06 c r o u s t a d e s o f , w t h p o a c h e d e g g 1 13 i
s au c e 1 60 c u rry of , w t h r c e i
l 1 i .

m i r o to n o f 1 01 Ma y o n n a i s e 106 Mu tt o n c u t l e t s b a k e d , w h a p pl e s . 1 12 it
m u l l i g a t a wn e y . . 103 as p c i 107 f r i e d , r e f o r m e g a rn s h 1 1 3 i
o f c el er y . 41 s a u t e , wi t h fi n e h e r b s 1 13
102 c h c keni . O O O O O O O O O O O Q O O C O l O 56 151 Mu tto n, f r e d b re as t o f i 1 11
a n d o y s te r pi e o f l o b s te r 101 z
g l a e d b re a st o f 11 1
o f s a l mo n 1 55 h ar c o t of i 1 11
ri s s o l e s 161 b as h e d , w t h p e p p e rs 112 i 1 13
107 i
n o s e t te s o f , a n M a d e r e 1 14
s al i
p co n of l o b s er t 101 p i e , E n g l s h s t yl e i 1 13
. 1 02 Me a t o l v e s ( p a u p e t t e s )
i i 12 7 r ag o u t o f , w t h om ato e s 11 1 i t
107 i
r s s o l e s o f s au c e o l l an d a se . 1 12 H i
Me l o n S O Q O Q Q O O O s O s O 107 ro as t l e g o f 1 10
s ou v 0 0 s o 0 0 0 6s 0 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 00 0 0 0 0 103 M e l o n 107 ro l l e d s h o u l d e r o f , oys e r t s au c e 111
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s t e w wi t h v e g e t a b l e s 1 13 b ra i s e d 1 18 sand w c h . i 12 4
s t u fi e d b r e a s t o f , s a u c e R o b e r t 11 1 c re a m e d . . 1 18 s au c e 12 3 161
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i i
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16 1 12 4
Nastu r t u mi 12 2
pu re e o f 12 1
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1 19 12 4
65 w th fi s h i su prem e o f . . 12 3
Ne g u s 65 On i o n s al a d 12 3
Ne ptu n e i
60 On o n s a u c e 1 18 Oy s t e r c rab s , f r ed i . . 69
Ne s s e l ro d e i
w h t e a n d b r o wn 1 61 N e wb u rg 69
Ne u f c h a e l t i i
On o n s o u p w t h c h e e s e c a n a p e s 1 18 69
Nic e o i s e 1 61 w th i s au c e po u l e t t e . 69
i
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( g a r n is h ) . 87 s t e we d . f r ed i
No isette . . 114 vi n eg ar 1 18 12 4
1 14 s al ad . 1 52
de 1 14 O r a n g e s , b o u h ee c o f 21 s au c e p o u l e t t e
No np are i l s au c e c o m po t e o f 11 9 s au t e . 12 4
1 14 1 19 12 4
N o rm a n d e s au c e 161 i
f r tte rs . 1 24
96 ap pl e
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Oa t m e a l . 1 14 j e ll i e d 1 19 F
ren c h .

Ob e r l a n d l i ve r s a u s ag e 14 1 je l l y . 97 J
e n n y L nd i 8
Oe u f s a l a c o c o t te . m a rm a l a d e . 1 19 8
pie . . 1 19 12 1
b ak e d . p u d d i ng 1 19 P a p i l l o t e s au c e 1 62 .

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c a nape s s au c e 119 161 P a r m e s a n c h e e s e 12 4
me a t ( p au p ie tt es ) . 1 19 12 4
Oll a pod d a ri . Or to l a n 1 19
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f r e d i n b at t e r 12 5 .

apr c ot i i n c ro u s t ad e . . 12 0 f r t e rs i t . 83 12 5
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fr ed . . . 12 0 mas h ed ” 125
a s p ar a g u s . ro as t . 12 0 sau t ee s 12 5
w i t h a s p a r ag u s t r u ffle d t i i
1 2 0 Pa r r d g e w t h b a c o n , p a r s l e y s a u c e 1 2 6 .

wi t h b a c o n Ox t ia l s , b ra i s e d wi t h k i d n e y b e a n s
, 16 b s qu e i 17
w i t h B r u s s e l s s p ro u ts c l e ar 13 b o l ed . i 12 5 .

wi t h c a l f s b r a i n s c u r ri e d wi t h s p a g h e t t i i

, . 16 g ar n s h e d 12 5 .

wi t h c a l f s h e a d c u rry o f 12 0 i
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R efe ren ce shee ts for use i n ] a w b o o k pe r 100 I 00 ,

M EA L S T I C K E T S p ri n te d to or d e r in lo t s o f 5 000 or m o re pe r 1 000 ,

E X T R A F I L I N G B O X E S ( n ee d e d onl y whe re t h e fi l in g ca b in e t i s n o t u se d ) each i oc .

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Wil ly , i nve nt o r and Pa t e n t e e , 3 2 5 De a r b o m st .
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