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Richard Mitchell
Otago Polytechnic
Adrian Woodhouse
Otago Polytechnic
Tony Heptinstall
Otago Polytechnic
Justine Camp
Otago Polytechnic
Abstract Keywords
Culinary arts education has remained largely unchanged for more than a century. culinary education
Since the time of Auguste Escoffier, students have been taught French classical pedagogy
cookery using a master-apprentice model of education that began in the Middle curriculum
Ages. While the vocational apprenticeship has been replaced in some instances by culinary design
education delivered by public and private institutes, rote learning from a master culinary-design model
continues. Contrast this with the fast pace of modern cookery and an outpouring of design thinking
culinary innovation not seen in at least 150 years and you have an education system
that simply cannot keep up. This article discusses the current culinary arts educa-
tion system in New Zealand and identifies several forces that are highlighting the
need for change. Food media’s popularizing of culinary design provides both inspi-
ration and aspiration for those wanting to learn culinary arts. Meanwhile, the New
Zealand Government promotes design through its technology curriculum and lauds
design-led business and creative industries as the way of the future. Surrounding
this is a growing global awareness of the challenges that we face in providing safe,
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Introduction
Over the last decade the pace of change has quickened in the culinary world.
This is as an outcome of a significant leap in consumer awareness of all things
food. As a result, there is a growing demand for culinary education that can
provide learning environments that meet the needs of an increasingly food-
savvy, ambitious, but skill-poor, student body and an industry hungry for
graduates who can think on their feet, adapt quickly and adjust to a consumer
with an insatiable appetite for food knowledge. In short, food industries and
culinary students are demanding culinary education that takes the gradu-
ate to a new level of understanding. To this end, D. Ferguson and F. Berger
(1985) suggest that creativity lies at the heart of effective hospitality education,
but that it is sadly lacking in its traditional form. Meanwhile, culinary arts /
cookery curriculum has tended to resist change, remaining focused on core
skills from ‘traditional’ cookery. So, while across the globe cutting-edge culi-
nary practitioners are driven by exploration, experience and experimentation
by producers and consumers of food, curriculum remains focused on tradi-
tion and homage to the French roots of western cookery. Chefs are trained
by ‘masters’ who emphasize practical skills and techniques over many of the
concepts of modern management and design-led thinking. As a result, this
master-apprentice model only imparts some of the skills necessary to survive
in the modern culinary world.
This article discusses why Otago Polytechnic’s Bachelor of Culinary Arts
has set out to break away from this traditional approach and to develop
‘designerly ways of knowing’ (Cross 1982) in its graduates. The article explores
the drivers behind the degree and briefly introduces how it intends to meet
new demands on culinary education. First, however, the article provides a
background to traditional cookery education and reasons why it will become
increasingly difficult for this model to provide for the needs of those in culinary
arts education.
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Why use design methodology in culinary arts education?
master and apprentice relationship now became contractual and the working
conditions for apprentices improved (Miles 2007).
However, perhaps the most significant force behind the continuance (even
strengthening) of the culinary master-apprentice model came from Auguste
Escoffier, the man often cited as the father of modern cuisine. Escoffier, whose
culinary techniques are the basis for culinary education across the western
world, developed the ‘brigade de cuisine’ or ‘partie system’ for organizing the
workforce of large restaurant and hotel kitchens (Miles 2007). This follows a
strict military-styled hierarchy with the apprentice at the bottom and the Chef
de Cuisine (Head / Executive Chef) at the top, providing the ideal structure for
the master-apprentice environment of education and training.
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Why use design methodology in culinary arts education?
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alone were not providing students with what they needed once they were in
the industry and that problem-solving skills were at least as important.
Meanwhile, in Australia, the Department of Education, Science and
Training (DEST) National Industry Skills Report (DEST 2005) highlighted the
need for vocational training across all sectors to adapt to significant shifts in
the labour market. According to DEST (2005), these changes are driven by
globalization, an expansion of labour market (to be more international), a
more sophisticated level of service demanded from customers and consum-
ers and the need for businesses to be more competitive and productive. The
result is a labour market that needs to be adaptable and responsive to change.
One of DEST’s recommended strategies for registered training organizations
was the development of ‘high level technical skills, as well as skills such as
communication, business management, innovation and creativ[ity] and prob-
lem solving’ (DEST 2005: 11, emphasis added). R. Miles (2007) suggests that
such a strategy is particularly important for culinary education because, as C.
Chappell et al. (2000) conclude for all vocational training, there has tended to
be an over-emphasis of the technical skills at the expense of the more widely
applicable skills.
These calls for change are not limited to government agencies and
academics. In April 2013 students of the Culinary Institute of America (Hyde
Park) (CIA) protested over the perceived value that they received for their
fees (Moskin and Collins 2013). They highlighted ‘slipping standards’ and a
perceived bowing to corporate sponsors of foodstuffs. In response the CIA
provost, Mark Ericson, stated:
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Why use design methodology in culinary arts education?
discuss the creative process that utilizes these items, nor does she provide a
framework for including them within the curriculum.
According to Miles (2007), in Australia there have been a number of incre-
mental changes in competency-based education that have led to improve-
ments in skills training that are of benefit to teachers and learners. However,
Miles (2007: 270) himself suggests that there is still a need for the ‘devel-
opment and implementation of innovative teaching techniques that include
reflective practices, new technologies to provide greater and more equitable
access to [vocational culinary] training’. Arguably, while Miles and Hu are
calling for a more innovative approach to culinary education, the entrenched
nature of current educational practice means that a solution is unlikely to lie
in incremental changes to a model that is struggling to keep up with current
demands. Indeed, the very fact that Miles talks of ‘innovative teaching tech-
niques’ and Hu of ‘competencies’ implies that they are not suggesting a shift
from a master-apprentice / competency-based model of culinary educa-
tion, but simply new ways of delivering that model. Meanwhile a number of
environmental forces are at work that challenge this model.
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before (Cheng 2012). Cheng (2012) describes this as the ‘Top Chef syndrome’,
where young people and career changers enter culinary education dreaming
of a spot on the Food Network and a better life: a culinary career built on crea-
tivity and performance. Sadly, according to Cheng (2012), culinary schools (in
America at least), have not been able to live up to these expectations, leading
to disquiet and public protest by students.
As Cheng (2012) has suggested, culinary schools have a new market of
career changers and young people with new expectations. This has resulted
in classrooms with a mix of cultural and social capital and a breadth of formal
education and life experience not previously seen in culinary education. In
New Zealand, for example, the 2012 and 2013 intakes for the Bachelor of
Culinary Arts at Otago Polytechnic has comprised approximately one-third
school leavers (the majority of whom did not study food at school, includ-
ing about one-third whose primary area of study at school was art), one-
third graduates from other tertiary programmes (including, amongst others:
law; English literature; nursing; and food science) and one-third with prior
(master-apprentice style) culinary training. This is in stark contrast to enrol-
ments in previous programmes that would typically only have one or two
enrolments from outside of the school-leaver market, most of whom had
undertaken some secondary cookery education.
It is important to recognize that creativity and innovation have always
been a part of culinary arts professions. Indeed, in 1921 Escoffier himself
talked of the differences in techniques and applications between the first
(1903) and second (1907) editions of his famous Le Guide Culinaire (Escoffier
1995). He advises readers to respect the work of past greats of the culinary
world, ‘but instead of copying them servilely, we ourselves should seek new
approaches so that we may leave behind us methods of working that have
been adapted to the customs and needs of our time’ (Escoffier 1995: n.p.).
Indeed, many who have followed Escoffier have innovated (albeit some time
after completing their formal education which largely followed Escoffier’s
teachings of more than a century ago), but there has never been a time
when leading culinary innovators have shared their innovation processes. In
the past, chefs have been more than willing to share their perfected recipes
and dishes, but not the process of perfecting the dish. For example, Ferran
Adrià and his creative partners published A Day at el Bulli, which describes
the six creative methodologies that he uses in the design of a dish and menu
(see Adrià et al. 2008). Meanwhile, Grant Achatz (of Chicago restaurants,
Next and Alinea) broadcasts his methodologies on YouTube, discussing such
concepts as flavour bouncing and menu design and Heston Blumenthal’s
television series In Search of Perfection (Strachan 2006; Robertson 2007) and
Heston’s Feasts (Taylor 2009/2010) explore what inspires his dishes and an
insight into the design thinking and developmental processes behind the
final dish being demonstrated. So for an industry where innovation was
the (secret) domain of the master, these innovators are stepping outside
the norm and providing insights into these processes for complete novices.
In doing so, these leading culinary thinkers are acknowledging that the
sharing of information is now the way forward for the industry and that,
by demystifying the culinary design process, further innovations should
be facilitated.
As a result of this popularization of culinary design and an opening up by
key high-profile innovators, the culinary arts are now more attractive to learn-
ers with diverse educational backgrounds, including those interested in:
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c urricula as part of the ‘New Learning’ framework (Kalantzis and Cope 2004,
2008), which has also been influential in Australia (Kalantzis and Cope 2001;
Kalantzis et al. 2005). In the United Kingdom, the Design Council has been
active in promoting multi-disciplinarity in higher education as a result of the
2005 Cox Review of Creativity in Business (Design Council 2007a). The Design
Council (2007a) found that a multi-disciplinary approach to design education
was being applied in a variety of tertiary education contexts in Europe with
a focus on project-based learning, industry briefs and rapid prototyping. A
further report on the Asian context for multi-disciplinary design education
also found heavy government investment in this approach by South Korea
and China (Design Council 2010a). In 2010 the Design Council also published
a report on the UK’s Multi-Disciplinary Design Network, which, since 2006,
has promoted the development of higher education that combines a range of
traditional disciplines with design disciplines to develop the problem-solvers
of the future (Design Council 2010b). The report highlights the importance
of the McKinsey concept of ‘T-shaped people’, who have both a breadth of
understanding of concepts (horizontal) and a set of in-depth skills (vertical)
as the ideal graduates of these programmes (Design Council 2010b), while
others have postulated that a ‘designerly way of knowing’ is what results in
effective problem-solving (Roworth-Stokes 2011).
Outside of the educational context, innovation and design thinking are at
the core of the New Zealand Government’s business development policy and
this sends signals to students and educators that design is highly valued and an
important skill for business. For example, New Zealand Trade and Enterprise
(a government department) is home to the specialist group called ‘Better By
Design’. This provides a service that connects companies with experts and
design practitioners who take growing export businesses through a Design
360 exercise as part of their ‘Design Integration Programme’ (see http://www.
betterbydesign.org.nz). Better By Design also facilitates design networks,
international study tours and an annual design leadership conference for
company CEOs and senior managers. Once again this follows international
trends towards design-led solutions to business and societal problems in the
developed economies of Europe and emerging economies in Asia (Design
Council 2010b).
This approach is reflected in global rankings for innovation and business
start-up. In 2011 New Zealand ranked fifteenth on the Global Innovation
Index (down from 9th in 2009/2010) and is third in the East Asia and Pacific
region (INSEAD eLab 2011). This puts it ahead of nations such as South Korea
(16), Norway (18), Japan (20), Australia (21) and France (22) and just behind
the likes of Israel, Ireland and Germany. As a result, in 2010 it was described
as ‘an entrepreneurial powerhouse’ by The Economist (New Zealand Trade and
Enterprise 2011) and was the ‘best place in the world to start a business’ for
2011 and 2012 (The World Bank 2012).
Successive New Zealand governments have also been very support-
ive of the creative sector, most notably the film industry. For example, since
1978 the New Zealand Film Commission has invested in 200 locally made
films and in 2011/2012 it will invest another $NZ18.4 million (New Zealand
Film Commission 2011). Thanks to this investment Peter Jackson, Andrew
Adamson and Weta Workshops are now household names around the world.
The importance of this to culinary arts education may not at first be appar-
ent, but this success is highlighting to young people that there are significant
rewards to be had from a career in the creative industries. This, combined
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Why use design methodology in culinary arts education?
Food-Awareness
As global pressures mount on the resources that maintain our standard of
living (food, water, oil, climate), the western world is finally becoming food-
aware. Food issues are at the top of global agendas, as some countries become
increasingly obese while others continue to struggle to find even the barest
of nutrition. Environmental factors such as climate change, a rapidly dimin-
ishing oil reserve, regional conflicts and ongoing uncertainty in global finan-
cial markets are all having an impact on food and consumers are becoming
increasingly aware that our current modes of production and consumption are
unsustainable. Culinary education must be able to adapt to these forces and
keep pace with consumer awareness.
This awareness includes a reaction to the globalization of our foodways
(Hall and Mitchell 2001) that has seen a return to local food systems (Hall
et al. 2008; Mitchell and Scott 2008). To this end, R. D. Mitchell and D. G. Scott
(2008: 287) suggest that:
Meanwhile, I. Cook and P. Crang (1996) point out that the consumers make
this connection between the local and food so as to ‘re-enchant’ food prod-
ucts and to impart meanings beyond that of a globalized commodity.
Alongside this reaction against global commodities is a wider move-
ment towards ethically and morally acceptable consumption, such that
‘consumers are increasingly demanding foods that are healthy, spray-free,
organic, biodynamic, non-genetically modified organisms (GMO), have low
food miles, are ethically produced, and /or fair-trade’ (Hall et al. 2008: 198).
Meanwhile, ‘consumer-citizens’ use alternative food distribution outlets such
as farmers’ markets as a political statement against food insecurities such as
concerns around genetically modified foods or the recent Bovine Spongiform
Encephalopathy (BSE) outbreaks (Sassatelli and Scott 2001). R. Sassatelli and
A. Scott (2001) point out that farmers’ markets are increasingly important to
consumers as they have ‘embodied trust’ that provide consumers with the
security that they seek from their food.
Of course such movements are also supported by and reflected in the
media and food activism is on show on an almost daily basis. Celebrity chefs
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Why use design methodology in culinary arts education?
This follows the general tenet of the New London Group’s (2000) framework
(itself applying design principles to the pedagogy of a subject not traditionally
associated with design – literacy). This framework uses a melding of ‘situated
practice’ and ‘overt instruction’ in the ‘critical framing’ of real world prob-
lems where students ‘stand back’ from the problem and critically evaluate it
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Mitchell | Woodhouse | Heptinstall | Camp
‘Designerly ways of knowing’ have been described as the ‘third area’ of educa-
tion (Cross 1982 after Royal College of Art 1979), which, in contrast to the
sciences (objective, rational, neutral and concerned with ‘truth’) and humani-
ties (subjective, imagination, commitment and concerned with ‘justice’),
operates with core values of ‘practicality, ingenuity, empathy, and a concern
for “appropriateness”’ (Cross 1982: 222). These are the values of the Otago
Polytechnic’s Bachelor of Culinary Arts and they are operationalized through
the application of the design-led research, creativity and design resolution.
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Why use design methodology in culinary arts education?
Source: http://www.designcouncil.org.uk/about-design/How-designers-work/The-design-process/
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Figure 3: Patisserie example of the double diamond design model for culunary education.
practice) are used to help them engage with the professional world of cookery.
This connecting of the personal and professional worlds allows students to
take their own pathway in designing their dish while exploring technique and
content from both inside and outside the classroom. This requires a heavy
emphasis on research methods from the outset of the programme.
Like the master-apprentice approach, students are still introduced to
fundamental cookery techniques, but questioning (both of lecturers and
through experimentation by the students during the prototyping process) of
how and why these techniques work (or not) is vital to the design process
being applied. The master-apprentice model neither encourages such ques-
tioning, nor provides alternative applications of fundamentals or solutions to
problems. Students of the master are taught a repertoire of dishes that the
student must repeat using the same technique and to the same ‘level of qual-
ity’ expected of the master. For example, in patisserie one dish that is widely
used to demonstrate mastery is a lemon tart. This dish demonstrates mastery
of custard-making (a form of egg coagulation), production of a short crust
(pastry) and usually some form of sugar or chocolate garnish work. At the end
of such an assessment the student knows how to make a lemon tart and wider
application of the fundamentals learnt (egg coagulation, pastry and sugar or
chocolate work) only comes by making another dish that uses these skills.
The use of a design-led approach to the acquisition and application of these
fundamentals allows students to develop a wide range of problem-solving
skills based on these fundamentals (i.e. egg coagulation can result in many
forms of custard, ice creams, mousses, parfaits, etc.) and a deeper understand-
ing of how and why they work (i.e. there are many ways that egg coagulation
can be achieved).
The fact that each student’s project results in a completely new dish
allows students to witness first hand a multitude of possible outcomes as
they see their peers’ unique application of the fundamentals. This process
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Why use design methodology in culinary arts education?
Conclusion
The forces outlined above drive student demands for tertiary education. Many
have been through an education system that imparts design thinking and
encourages creativity, while food media models a romanticized view of the
culinary arts that many aspire to. They are ethically and morally aware and
increasingly they want careers that will allow them to find solutions to many
of the crises that face our foodways. In recent years multi-disciplinary higher-
education courses have begun to marry design, entrepreneurship and creativ-
ity with more traditional courses that will have implications for the future of
food (e.g. the University of Nottingham’s taught master’s degree that includes
design alongside food production management (Design Council 2010b) and
the Bachelor of Culinary Arts at Otago Polytechnic will add to this growing
area of design-led pedagogy.
The restaurant and hotel industry is demanding graduates with a wider
range of critical thinking and an ability to adapt quickly and think on their
feet (Hu 2010). At the same time culinary arts graduates have an increasing
number of choices when they graduate, as there are many diverse professions
now in need of culinary arts knowledge. Traditional skills alone will not be
enough for graduates to survive in this new environment as almost all training
is geared towards a restaurant kitchen.
Design-led thinking provides a tool for the development of new skills,
new ideas and new possibilities for culinary arts graduates. By providing an
education that allows students to be inquisitive, creative and innovative – by
design – Otago Polytechnic’s Bachelor of Culinary Arts is proposing an alter-
native to the master-apprentice model of culinary education.
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Suggested Citation
Mitchell, R., Woodhouse, A., Heptinstall, T. and Camp, J. (2013), ‘Why use
design methodology in culinary arts education?’, Hospitality & Society 3: 3,
pp. 239–260, doi: 10.1386/hosp.3.3.239_1
Contributor details
Dr Richard Mitchell is Associate Professor of Hospitality at Otago Polytechnic’s
(New Zealand) Food Design Institute. He has almost fifteen years of experi-
ence in food, wine and hospitality research.
Contact: Food Design Institute, Otago Polytechnic, Forth Street, Dunedin,
New Zealand.
E-mail: richard.mitchell@op.ac.nz
Justine Camp (Kai Tahu, Kāti Mamoe, and Waitaha) is the Kaipūtahi at Otago
Polytechnic. Her background in social work and community development
and Te Reo Mäori underpins her teaching in both health and Mäori-specific
areas. Justine’s role includes assisting heads of schools and departments in
aligning their curriculum with Mäori aspirations and the Treaty of Waitangi.
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