MAKE-UP MANUAL

Professional conduct
Personal Hygiene

• Make-up artists work very closely to clients thus should demonstrate excellent hygiene.
• Take a daily bath or shower and wear an effective antiperspirant.
• Oral hygiene – brush teeth regularly and use mouthwash if necessary.
• Wear a clean, loose-fitting and neat uniform.
• Comfortable, full, low-heeled shoes and socks with trousers.
• Natural tights with skirts.
• Well applied make-up.
• Hands, clothes and breath should never smell like cigarette smoke.
• Hair must be clean and tied back off the face.
• Clothing and shoes are to be perfectly clean.
• Hands must be clean and nails are to be short and free of nail varnish as the client could have anallergy to
an ingredient in the varnish. Nail varnish could also chip and look untidy/unprofessional.
• Only studs and wedding rings can be worn by the therapist.

Hygiene at your station

Your work station and counter must be kept hygienically clean at all times. Wipe down yourwork

station with a disinfectant. Makeup products should also be wiped down and sanitized. As a

makeup artist you should work “clean” in other words as you are working, everything should be

kept clean by sanitizing, as well as stations kept neat and tidy. Throwdisposables i.e. tissues,

earbuds away immediately after use and make sure nothing unnecessary is left on your stations at

any time.

Cleanliness is of the utmost importance and gives a good first impression to the client. This impression is what
instils client’s confidence and increases the chances of him/her returning forfurther treatment.
Make-Up Artist:

The Make-up artist must wear a hygienic, clean and protective uniform. This is necessary due to the
nature of the services offered. A cotton uniform is ideal as it allows air to circulate, enabling perspiration
to evaporate and therefore discouraging body odour. A white uniform is a good choice as it immediately
gives the client the impression of cleanliness. A darker colour / black uniform is an alternative choice as it
camouflages stains caused by repetitive use of products and oils. A uniform may comprise a dress or a
tunic top with matching trousers or skirt. A fresh, cleanuniform should be worn each day and uniforms
should be laundered regularly. Replace your make-up regularly. Especially products developed for the
eyes. The general rule is typically to change your mascara and your eyeliner every four to six months. It is
recommended that you should replace them every four to six weeks. If at any point in time you or a client
develops an eye infection like conjunctivitis or pink eye, you should immediately throw away any make-up
thathas come in contact with your eyes and just start fresh with new products. If foundation has a pump,
then it will last longer. Face powders, bronzers and powder product can last for well more than a year. If
there is shine on the surface or it begins to emit a foul odour, discard of it.
Most experts say lipstick, liner and glosses are good for two years, but be aware of the smell of the
product and exposure. If you have cold sores or other infections regularly replace all productsthat comes
into contact after a break out. Use isopropyl alcohol of 90% or greater to sanitize anytools including
tweezers, scissors and lash curlers. Be sure the alcohol has evaporated before using the tool on the client.

Protective wear

It is necessary to wear a protective apron over the uniform when performing certain treatments such as
blocking out the brows. Assistant make-up artist may also wear protective aprons when preparing the
working areas to help keep their uniforms clean.

Make-up artist assistant

An assistant make-up artist is required to wear a protective, clean uniform as they will be preparing the
working area for the make-up artist to perform treatments. The assistant make-upartist might also be
involved in preparing the client for treatment. Assistant Make-up Artists workon feature films and on
some commercials, and are responsible to Make-up artists, and chief

Make-up artists and / or designers. Their responsibilities vary depending on the size of the

Production. If there are no make-up trainees on a film, assistants assume their duties and thework
involves setting up workstations, assisting senior staff, and working on crowd scenes.
However, on smaller productions assistant make-up artists may be given responsibility for make- up for
minor or principal characters. Assistant make-up artists are employed during production, and sometimes
during pre-production. They usually work on a freelance basis. The hours are longand the job can involve
long periods working away from home. Assistant make-up artists may be involved in the set-up and
 maintenance of the make-up workstations, including: keeping workstations clean and tidy, cleaning and
laying out brushes and products for the day ahead, making sure product levels are maintained, assisting
with the purchase of supplies, and moving make-up kit between buses or locations. They help make-up
artists in their work: handing them brushes or products, helping to attach prosthetic pieces, running
errands, and making sure that performers are well looked after.

Receptionist

If a receptionist is employed solely to carry out reception duties, she may wear a different salon uniform,
complementary to those worn by the rest of the make-up artists. If she will not be as active, it may be
appropriate for her to wear a cardigan or a smart jacket. However, the standardsalon uniform should be
worn, if she will be carrying out services on occasion.

How to conduct yourself in a professional manner

• Behave like an adult.

• Be Approachable.
• Keep your attitude business-like
• Always be cheerful, friendly, gracious and honest to establish a solid rapport with your client.
• Be discreet with your client’s personal information that has been given to you.
• Ensure you offer an efficient service.
• Always be punctual.
• Do not discuss sex, religion or politics.
• Keep conversations ethical and client lead.
• Don’t pre-judge your clients.
• Don’t perform treatments you are not qualified in.
• Keep equipment and surroundings neat and tidy and of a high hygienic standard.
• Have sufficient equipment to perform treatments.

Client care
Communication

• Individual attention – no private issues to be brought up in the workplace.

• Greet warmly.
• Keep to appointment times.
• Do no leave client alone while they are having a treatment.
• Accommodate reasonable requests.
• Ensure client understands proposed treatment.
• Listen courteously to complaints or grievances.
• Resolve problems as quickly as possible.
• Avoid sensitive issues i.e. Politics, sex, religion.
• Address clients by name not “dearie or honey” etc.

Body language

Body language is a window to what is really going on in your mind. Every movement you make whether
conscious or not are revealing your true feelings about the other person or the situation you are in. As you
release these feelings you’re are receiving and interpreting messages about theother person’s attitude
towards you through their body language.

It is thought that approximately 93% of our language comes from posture, gestures and facial
expressions and how we use our voices.

Approximately 7 – 10% of the meaning we are communicating comes from our actual words.38% is
the way we say those words i.e. pitch, speed and tone of voice.
55% of the message we are communicating comes from our bodies i.e. our facial expressions andour
gestures.

Even talking over the phone will be influenced by your body. How you are standing influencesyour
breathing and your voice, this means that the role of the body as a communicator is still important.

• Be conscious of your body language at all times

• Appropriate body language with your client, will put them at ease and reassure them that theyare in the
hands of a professional therapist.
• Smiling.
• Making eye contact.
• Sitting facing your client during conversation.
• Leaning forward slightly when talking to your client.
• You also need to learn how to read your client body language. For example, frowning or raisedeyebrows
usually indicates that someone is irritated or ill at ease.
• When receiving negative feedback, ensure that your body language stays positive; this will allowthe client
to feel that you are listening.

Speech & communication

• As a make-up artist, relating well to people is an essential part of your business.

• Communication skills are at the heart of your ability to relate to clients. Since communication isa two-
way process, to communicate effectively with clients and colleagues you must also encourage them to
 communicate well with you.
• Good speech and communication skills will help you to succeed in business.
• The best way to get a client to communicate with you is to ask questions, this way you can getthe
information you need to treat them effectively.

Open questions
Cannot be answered with just a yes or no; they invite your client to provide information and to answer
in detail i.e.: what is your skin regime at home consist of? These are questions that leadto a
conversation and often start with “Tell me”. What? How? When? Who?

Closed questions
Your client will be able to give you short answers like yes or no. I.e.: are you warm enough?

Listening skills

Good listening skills include the following:

• Make your client feel important and give them your undivided attention while they are with you.
• Allow your client to speak freely.
• Listen carefully and establish whether or not the feedback is negative, if so make it positive.
• Do not interrupt and do not argue with your client.
• Show your client that you are interested in their answer, this will encourage them to speak.
• Keep eye contact.

Try to remember what clients say to you, maybe make a note so that next time they visit you canrefer to
it i.e. daughter wedding etc.

Being comfortable with silence

Some clients enjoy the silence and use this time to relax, while other clients enjoy the
conversation and often use this time to talk about the happenings in their lives.

• Consent and indemnity document to be signed by client or parent for person younger than 16
• Consent is necessary from a guardian if the client is too ill to consent themselves
• Only recommend treatments which are relevant to the client
• Refer clients if necessary and do not diagnose
• Obtain the following info:
• General info i.e. contacts details
• Harmful substances.
• Illness.
• Lifestyle.
• Medication.
• Nutrition.
• Operations.
• Present problems.
• Medical history and GP’s contact details for an emergency.
• Treatment plan in the event of any adverse reactions.
• Home care advice.
• Which products you used and sold to your client.
• Anything which the client has requested.
• Ensure you have the GP’s permission to perform the treatment if the need arises.
• Ensure client confidentiality at all times and must feel she can confide in you.
• Ensure that the client signs the consultation form.
• Do not discuss your client with another therapist or client.
• When positioning a client for consultation ensure there should be no barriers between client andtherapist.
• Do not make false claims about a treatment or products or another salon.

Modesty & privacy

• Use towel management – areas that are not being worked on must be closed with towels.
• Be tactful, especially with older clients.
• Be diplomatic if clients need to remove their clothing and ensure they are private.
• Provide alternative covering to maintain clients’ dignity.

Treatment

• Become and expert and talk intelligently about your work.

• Work within your own boundaries – no false promises.
• Guard against emotional involvement with your client.
• Ensure that you have sufficient equipment and products to perform the therapy.
• Recommend the best treatment for the problem – be aware of the contra-indications.
• Know when not to treat and when to refer clients for medical advice.
• Never go against a doctor’s recommendation.
• Create the atmosphere for the treatment – no loud music or invasive lighting.
• Make a point of washing your hands prior to treatment.
• Do not allow the client to dictate the treatment – you are the expert.
• Make sure that you complete the treatment in the time specified, not only that other clients tonot have
to wait but also the treatments are based on overheads of the salon.
• Understand when a client may be contra-indicated and you need to seek the GP’s permission totreat
them.

Colleagues
• Build up a support network of make-up experts qualified in other disciplines.
• Don’t run your colleagues down or gossip about them.
• Don’t discuss your colleagues with your clients.
• Do not poach clients from other artists.
• Don’t discuss one client with another client.

Skin analysis
Before carrying out skin treatments, it is important to take into account the clients skin type, colour and
conditions in order to choose the most effective and suitable treatments as well as thecorrect products.
Age of skin
• Young skin – even in colour, fine, clear texture, soft, smooth supple but firm. Oil and moisture isbalanced.
• Mature skin – skin loses firmness and elasticity, and may feel looser and thinner. Less definition of
contours of the face, skin becomes dry, irregular pigmentation may appear on the surface of the skin
such as Lentigo or Chloasma.

Signs if skin ageing

• Loss of tone in facialmuscles.
• Prominent bones.
• Fine wrinkling around eyes(crow’s feet)

• Looser skin on the neckand eyelids.

• Broken capillaries on thecheeks and nose.

• Pigmentation becomesmore evident.

• Lack of elasticity.

• Poor circulation.
• Factors that affect skinageing.
• UV damage.
• Diet.
• Smoking.
• Alcohol.
• Air conditioned
environment.
• Stress.
• Sleep patterns.

Skin colour
• White skin - fair in colour, blonde brown or red hair, green/blue eyes, sensitive to UV rays, agesquickly,
rosy or flushed completion.
• Black skin – produces a large amount of melanin, has a great protection from UV rays, and agesslower,
prone to hyper pigmentation from scars and keloid scarring, generally oily skin.
• Asian skin – predominantly yellow in tone, sallow tinge, often oily, smooth evenly coloured, ageswell,
prone to hyperpigmentation from scarring.
• Mixed skin – a combination of skin colours, the shades and sensitivity will vary greatly dependingon the
mix.

Skin types
• Dry – (A lack of oil production). Appears pale and thin with fine lines, has no visible pores sometimes with
broken capillaries and flakiness, it may feel and look tight and can sometimes bemistaken for dehydrated
skin, commonly associated with middle age. Can be caused by genetics,internal or external factors. Cold to
the touch and tends to age quicker.
• Oily – (Over production of oil). Appears sallow and dull or shiny and hard, with an uneven texture and
enlarged pores, particularly down the central T-zone, usually has comedones, papules and pustules
due to an over secretion of sebum, adolescence or the menstrual cycle.Moist and warm to the touch.
Thick and slightly toneless, ages slower.
• Normal – (Oil, moisture is balanced). Looks even in colour, no imperfections or visible vascularnetwork
present with fine, clear texture, soft, smooth supple but firm, treatment is aimed at maintaining skins
condition. Perfect pH of 5 – 5.6
• Combination – A combination of any two skin types on the same face, this is a very common skin type.
E.g. skin may have an oily T-panel or butterfly area with dry or normal cheeks. May also appear in
reverse – dry centre panel and oily sides.
 Normal Dry Combination Oily

No imperfections. Dull, flaky appearance. Dry in one area. Enlarged pores.

No sensitivity. No open pores. Oily in another. Oily, dull, shiny

appearance.

No visible pores. Red patchy areas. Large open pores. Blackheads, pimples,
pustules present.

Radiant complexion. Fine lines & wrinkles. Dry flaky patches. Ages Slower

Skin care

Cleansing routine
• Requirements for setting up your cleansing tray:
• Products (Eye make-up remover, cleanser etc.)
• Cotton wool pads.
• Water bowls.
• Decanting bowls.
• Spatulas
• Tissues.
• Dustbin.
NB: Never use products from the container, except thetoner.
Decant it into a bowl, (using a spatula).

Please note that cleansing the eyes and lips forms the firstpart
of your cleansing routine.

Cleansing the eyes:

• Place damp cotton wool square pad underneath the eye as close tothe
lashes as possible.
• Decant eye make-up remover into a small bowl.
• Apply eye make-up remover onto another damp cotton wool padand
hold between.
• Index and middle finger.
• Apply make-up remover onto the eye using downward strokes
working from the brow.

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 • Bone down over the lashes onto the already placed cotton pad.
• Remove the lower cotton pad using an inward motion from the outer
edge of the eye to the tear duct, cleansing at the same time.
• This procedure must be repeated until the cotton pads are clean.
• A cotton bud can be used to remove any excess eyeliner.

Cleansing the lips:

Using a clean cotton pad, cleanse the lips using inward strokes form the outer edges of the lipsinwards
towards the bow.

Cleansing the face:

Decant cleanser into a small bowl and place a reasonable amount onto a cotton pad.Follow
the cleansing routine below until the face is clean.
After cleansing routine remove cleanser with facial sponges or cotton wool.

• Tone and Moisturize face and neck.

• Two hand cleansing is only used when removing scrubs (exfoliators) or masks.

Please see the practical steps below:

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15
 Eyebrow Shaping
Reasons for Eyebrow Shaping
• Tidy and define the brow line by producinga
clean eyebrow shape.
• Accentuate the eyes.
• Ensure that eye make-up - especially eye
shadow - can be used to better effect.
• A face without groomed eyebrows has an
unfinished, incomplete look. Appears
unpolished.
• The thickness of the eyebrows helps in
balancing the facial features. Thus, it is
important not to over tweeze the area.
The following points must be taken into
consideration before shaping begins:
• Shape of the face.
• Spacing of the eyes.
• The correct eyebrow width for the
client.
• State of existing eyebrow.
• The client’s own preference.
• The age of the client.
• Fashion.
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 Contra-indications requiring medical permission - in circumstances where medical permission
cannot be obtained clients must give their informed consent in writing prior to thetreatment.
• Medical oedema.
• Nervous/Psychotic conditions.
• Epilepsy.
• Diabetes
• Skin cancer.
• Slipped disc.
• Undiagnosed pain.
• When taking prescribed medication,
specifically to eyes.
• scar tissue.
• Highly strung or nervous client.
• Skin disease.
• Bruising.
• Scar tissues (2 years for major surgery).
• Eye disorders.
• Whiplash.

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 Contra-indications that restrict treatment
• Fever.
• Contagious or infectious diseases.
• Under the influence of recreational drugs or
alcohol.
• Diarrhea and vomiting.
• Any known allergies Eczema.

• Undiagnosed lumps and bumps.

• Localised swelling Inflammation.
• Cuts, bruises, abrasions operation and 6
months for a small scar.
• Hormonal implants.
• Recent fractures (minimum 3 months).
• Sinusitis.
• Neuralgia.
• Sunburn.
• Migraine / Headache.
• Hypersensitive skin.
• Botox/dermal fillers (1 week following
treatment).
• Hyper-keratosis.
• Skin allergies.
• Styes – Hordeolum.
• Infection of the hair follicle of the eyelash:

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What are Instagram eyebrows?

If there's one trend that's taken the beauty world by storm the past several years, it's eyebrows. Shaping
them, tinting them, filling them in, you name it, and people have done it. Having defined,polished-looking
brows has become de rigueur (the current fashion) in the beauty world. Jared Bailey, a brow expert,
explains: "Instagram brows stole the show in late 2014 as more and more make up tutorials started taking
over Instagram", Bailey says. "The technique is an over dramatized fade where the brow is significantly
lighter in the front then gets deeper in colour as you move throughout the brow to the end’’. The effect is
a brow that looks soft at the beginning and slowly begins to get more defined towards the end of your
brow.
Determining the correct eyebrow shape

1. To suit the client’s age: For older clients, be aware that heavy, thick eyebrows can be ageing,whilst
thin eyebrows can give a very severe appearance to the face.
2. Determining the client’s own preference: It is vital that, as with any other service provided to aclient,
you carefully consult with them so that, together, you can decide on the final eyebrow shape in
accordance with their preferences, but also taking into account the natural shape of the brow.

There are certain shapes which are more suitable to a particular face shape and theseshould be
considered before shaping

High forehead The arch of the eyebrow should be slightly elevated to create the illusion of alower
forehead.
Low forehead The arch should be as low as possible to give more height to the forehead. Wide Set
Eyes The eyes will appear closer by leaving the eyebrow un-tweezed on the innercorners.

Close Set Eyes The make the eyes appear wider apart, tweeze more from the inner corners andextend
the outer corners.
Round Face Arched eyebrows narrow the face.
Oblong Face The eyebrows should be almost horizontal.
Pear-shaped Face Extra width is needed at the forehead; eyebrows should be arched andextended at
outer corners.

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 Eyebrow shaping procedure:

1. Apply cotton wool pads that have been soaked in warm water to the eyebrow area. The dampheat of
the cotton wool will help to relax the hair follicles and soften the eye tissue. This will make it easier to
remove the hairs; it will also make the process less painful and more comfortable for the client.
2. Alternatively, when incorporating an eyebrow shape within a full facial treatment, it would be more
comfortable for the client if you perform the tweezing immediately after facial steaming as this will be
when the pores are open.
3. Begin by working on the stray hairs that grow on the bridge of the nose, between the client'seyes.
4. To tweeze, gently stretch the skin using your index and middle fingers, and with the tweezers remove
hairs in the direction in which they are growing. NEVER remove hairs from above the brow. You will
lose the natural pathway of the brow.
5. As you work, place the removed hairs onto a clean tissue or sterile cotton wool pad wrapped around
the ring finger of the opposite hand.
6. Pause from time to time to allow your client to check progress in the hand mirror and to brush the
hairs into place to check the progress of the brow shape.
7. As you work, wipe the client's brow with the cotton wool pad soaked in sanitizer. This will also help to
remove any stray hairs that have fallen from the tweezers.
8. When both you and the client are completely satisfied with the finished shape, wipe the areayou
have been working on with a damp cotton wool pad which has been soaked in distilled water to calm
and soothe the area.

Home care advice for your client

Following an eyebrow shaping treatment, advise your client that:
• They should not apply make-up to the treated area for at least twelve hours. This is because thepores will
remain open for some time and infection from cosmetics could occur if they get into the open pores.
• They can use distilled water to cool and soothe the area, if they choose.

Record keeping

Keeping accurate records of dates, procedures and products, including any contra-action that mayhave
arisen during treatment, on the client's record card is essential for consistency of practice and safety.

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 Make-up brushes & equipment

Make-up brushes and equipment

Eye shadow brush:

Straight slight oval shaped brush.
Suitable for applying eye shadow to the lid, highlighting the browbone
and for shading the eyes when using powder eye shadow.

Angle brush:
It’s designed with a fine, slanted point.
It’s perfect for outlining the eyes and highlighting fine lines andcreases.
Also used for darkening eyebrows with a powder and blending
eyeliner.

Lip brush:
Pointed-tipped brush.
For perfect application of lipstick or lip sheen.

Eyebrow/eyelash brush:
Resembles a small toothbrush.
Used to brush brows into place.
Also for brushing and separating the eyelashes.

Sponge applicator:
For applying concealer, cream shadow and blending eyeliner.

Latex sponge/wedge:
Used to achieve a smoother application of foundation, creamblusher and
shading application.

Powder puff:
To apply translucent powder to the face.

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Eyelash curler:
To curl eyelashes before applying mascara.

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 Cleansing & sterilization of equipment

Brushes, sponges and powder puffs

• Wash gently with warm soapy water.
• Disinfect, using warm water and a disinfectant like Milton.
• Rinse with clean cool water.
• Place on a towel to dry in a safe area.

Sharpener
• Clean with surgical spirits.

Tweezers & metal implements

• Wipe the tips and handle with cotton wool and disinfectant (Surgical spirits).

Eyeliner & lip pencils

• Sharpen to sterilize.

Compact powder
• Scrape the top layer off with a spatula.

Mascara
• Use disposable mascara wands.

Eyelashes
• Wash with dishwashing liquid and warm water.

• Disinfect with surgical spirits.

Work surface
• Wipe the surface with a disinfectant like methylated spirits.

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 Hygiene & sterilisation

UV Cabinet
• Has a disinfectant property only.
• Is efficient in storing previously sterilised equipment.
• This method of sterilisation is only effective on the surfaces the rays touch, so items must beturned
during sanitization which will take 20 minutes.

Autoclave

• This method boils water under pressure and is suitable for small metal instruments.
• It boils at 121 C.
• It takes 15 minutes for sterilisation to complete.

Sterilising Fluid

• A good disinfectant should be:

• Easy to use.
• Non-corrosive.
• Quick-acting.
• Non-irritating.
• Odourless.

The quickest method of sanitization is cleaning with alcohol, either by immersion, or by wiping theexposed
surface of the implement with alcohol before placing it in a dry sterilizer.

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Get rid of any make-up that is past its expiration date:

Liquid and Cream Foundation 2 years

Concealer 2 years

Powder 2 years

Mascara 6 months

Lipstick 12 to 18 months

Lip and Eye Pencils 12 to 18 months

Eye Shadow 2 years

Powder Blush 2 years

Cream Blush 2 years

Moisturizer 2 years

Eye Cream 6 months

Sunscreen 2 years

Face Cream 2 years

Organic make-up
Organic – Raised or conducted without the use of drugs, hormones or synthetic chemicals.
Natural – Existing in or caused by nature.
Mineral – An inorganic substance that is neither animal nor vegetable (Calcium, iron etc.).

Organic and natural cosmetics are made from mineral pigments and organic plant extracts, whichprovide
natural sun filters, long-lasting colour and deliver a healthy-looking radiant glow. Unlike conventional
make-up, none of these products contain any synthetic like FD&C dyes (also known as synthetic colours),
artificial fragrances or petro-chemicals, making them ideal for people with sensitive skin.

Natural eye shadows, eyeliners and mascaras are gently formulated with pure mineral pigments and
healing organic plant ingredients to provide long-lasting colour while nurturing theskin. These delicate
blends are even suitable for sensitive eyes and contact lens wearers.

Mineral cosmetics such as foundations contain natural sun filters and healing organic plantingredients that are
perfect for sensitive skin.

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 Organic lipsticks, lip glosses, and lip liners are lead-free, petroleum-free and are made only with
natural ingredients containing beneficial plant nutrients that help soften and hydrate lipswhile adding
colour. In addition to their superior performance, these products go beyond being non-toxic, meaning
their actually 100% safe. This is important, as lip products are actually absorbed directly into your body
through the mouth.

Corrective make-up

Corrective make-up & eyewear for face shapes:

There are 7 Basic face shapes

• Contour the parts you want to hide. (2 shades darker than skin tone).
• Highlight the parts you want to bring out. (2 shades lighter than skin tone).
• Always strive for an oval shaped face.

1. Oval shape:
• The oval shaped face is the perfect shape face.
• Do not need any contouring or highlighting.
• Any type of glasses look good on an oval face.

2. Square shape:
• Contour the four corners of the face.
• Highlight chin & forehead.
• Round or oval glass frames with soft
curves or those with a curved upward
sweep suit the square face shape.

3. Round shape:
• Contour the sides of the face.
• Highlight forehead & chin.
• Glasses with angles, sharp lines and
upward swept styles.

4. Oblong shape:
• Contour the forehead and the chin
area.
• No highlighting.
• Oversized or wrap style glasses workwell
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 on an oblong face shape.

5. Diamond shape:
• Contour the sharp forehead, cheekbone areaplus
the sharp angle of the chin.
• Highlight the narrow parts of the templesand
jaw line.

• Frames that have detailing or distinctive brow

lines, or rimless frames or oval and cat-eye
shapes.

6. Triangle shape:
• Contour the wide jaw line and the sharp
forehead.
• Highlight the narrow part of the temples.
• Frames that are heavily accented with colourand
detailing on the top half or cat-eye shapes.

7. Inverted triangle:
• Contour the sharp point of the chin & thewide
part of the forehead.
• Highlight the narrow part of the jaw line.
• Frames that are wider at the bottom, verylight
colours and materials and rimless frame styles.

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29
 Corrective make-up for noses

1. Thin nose:
• Highlight the sides of the nose to make it
appear bigger.

2. Hooked nose:
• Shade the hooked part.
• Highlight both sides of the hook.

3. Broad nose:
• Contour the sides of the nose.
• Highlight the centre.

4. Crooked Nose:
• Shade the crooked side of the nose.
• Create a new middle line with highlighter.

5. Short Nose:

• Shade the sides of the nose

• Highlight the centre from the bridge to the tip of the nose

6. Long nose:

• Shade the tip of the nose darker

Corrective make-up for eyes

1. Wide-set eyes:
• Goal is to bring eye closer together.
• Start all of the application close to the nose and stop before
reaching the outer corner of the eye.

2. Close-set eyes:
• Goal is to separate the eyes.
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• Highlight the inner corners of the eyes.
• Begin the eye shadow more on the outer corner and extend it
outwards.

3. Small eyes:
• Goal is to open the eyes and make them look bigger.
• Dark shadow is your enemy.
• Use only light pastel or frosted colours on the lid to amplify.
• Blend the lid colour out beyond the outer corner.
• Apply a white pencil on the inside rim of the eye.

4. Bulging eyes:
• Goal is to flatten the eyes.
• Apply a medium dark tone colour to the eyelid, something dulldeep
& muted.
• Apply an even darker tone for shading if prominence continuesup into
the orbital bone.
• Curve the colour around just under the bottom of the eye,
especially if there is any protrusion in that area.
• Do not use pale frosted or glossy shadows.
• Apply a charcoal, coal or deep toned soft pencil on both upperand
lower inside rims of the eyelids.

5. Deep-set eyes:
• Goal is to bring forward.
• Apply a light bright lid colour to pull the eye forward.
• Apply shading to the area directly above the natural crease
following with a highlighter.

6. Prominent brow bone:

• Goal is to recede.
• Select a shade that is deep, flat and dull, no light colours.
• If area directly under the brow is prominent too, apply a medium
toned shadow to optically “push” it back, rather than avery light tone
generally used for highlighting.

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 7. Round eyes:
• Goal is to elongate.
• Dark colour can be brushed down slightly below the crease line.
• Extend all shadows beyond the outer corner of the eye.
• Apply to the lid or inside rim lining, to the outer half of the eye.

8. Narrow almond eyes:

• Goal is to widen.
• Apply a lid colour that is light medium.
• Extend the colour slightly higher at the center of the eye in a
rounded movement.
• A lighter shadow applied to the center area of the lid is alsovery
effective to

9. Puffy lids:
• Goal is to reduce.
• Optically diminish the puffiness on the lid by applying a deepflat
muted tone of shadow.
• Generally, the puffy lid continues up into the orbital bone, inthis
case you would shade
• With only flat dark muted tones of brown.
• A darker concentration of shadow can be applied for extradepth
in the crease if necessary.

10. Flat eyes:

• Goal to create depth.
• Most common with oriental eyes.
• Deep, more muted shades are most suitable for lid shadow.
• Shade with a slightly deeper tone.
• Warm tones can be used, as this eye type does not require
“setting back” in the frontal bone.
• Create depth and definition by applying a dark shade to the eyesocket.

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 11. Drooping eye lid:
• Goal is to lift
• Start shading narrow at the inner corner; widen it in an upwardslant
toward the outer corner of the eye.
• For drooping crease line, optically lift the sagging lid by
applying deeper shadow to the area one imagines existedbefore
the droop.
• If the droop is extensive at the outer corner, stop all the
shading and outlining short of the corners of the eye.

12. Wrinkled eyes:

• Goal not to emphasize
• Use soft colours and a light hand.
• Heavy application, bright, bold colours and highly frosted
shadows will only accentuate the problem.
• Outlining the eyes will give more emphasis or a more dramaticlook.
• Use muted tones; dark stark colours would appear too harsh.

13. Close Set Eyes

• Eyes narrower than one eye width are

regarded as close set.

• Use light colours on the inner corners and

extend the outer corners using dark colours.
Line outer corners, Use mascara on outer
corners.

14. Almond Eyes

• Any technique will work

15. Down Turned Eyes

• The focus is to shade up and out.

• Apply liner close to the upper lash line and blend
• Shadow along the socket line in the outer 2/3 of
• The eyes. Curling lashes and applying mascara

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16. Deep Set Eyes

• The eye is deep into the socket, with a small

mobile lid.

• Apply light colours on the mobile lid, with a deeper

colour on and just above the socket line, blending
up and out.

17. Hooded Eyes

• A fold of skin hangs over the socket line.
This happens with age.

• Use matte colours in medium to dark and

keep the eye make-up simple.

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 Corrective make-up for lips

Always use a lip liner as it makes the lipstick last longer and it stops the lipstick form bleeding.Use a
liner the same shade or similar as the lipstick. Always use a brush to apply lipstick.
To make lipstick last longer, apply lipstick and blot and then apply powder. Repeat 2-3 times.

1. Thin lips:
• Do lip line just above the natural lip line.
• Use a light lip colour with a gloss, avoid
dark colours.

2. Bottom heavy lips:

• Do the bottom line just on the inside of the natural lip line
• Do liner on the natural lip line

3. Top Heavy Lips:

• Do the top line just inside of the lip

4. Large lips:
• Do liner just on the inside of the natural lipline.
• Do not use light colour lipstick.

5. Droopy lips:
• Do not follow the natural lip line in thecorners of the mouth.
• Create your own corners.

6. Wide lips:

• Cut off the corners of the mouth to make them smaller

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 Make-up
Basic procedure for applying make-up

• Cleanse the face very well.

• Moisturise the face.
• Apply pre-base to even out skin texture.
• Apply concealer, covering all imperfections.
• Apply foundation with a latex sponge or
foundation brush.
• Make sure the colour is the same colour as theneck.
Apply with downward motion in the direction of hair
growth. Blend foundation overearlobes and into the
jaw line.
• Do corrective make-up if needed. Contour 2 shades
darker than skin tone. Highlight 2 shadeslighter than
skin tone.
• Apply powder to the face; apply with a powder puff or
brush to the entire face including the eyearea.
• Brush excess powder off with a powder brush,
brushing downwards with the hair growth.
• Darken eyebrows with pencil or powder and combthem
neatly.
• Apply powder eye shadows – blending is the most
important aspect. Apply shadow with rounded brushes
and blend with flat brushes.
• Apply eyeliner with pencil or powder in a neat lineclose
to the eyelashes and blend with either a cotton bud or
a small brush.
• Apply mascara and comb out with an eyebrow
brush.
• Apply powder blusher and blend well. Apply blush
• underneath the cheekbone form the ear and not
further that the pupil of the eye.
• Apply lip liner.
• Apply lipstick that will complement the blusher &eye
shadow.

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Pre-base:
Once the face is thoroughly cleansed and moisturized, apply the pre-base usinga clean
sponge. With firm, upward strokes gently press the product into the skin until it is
completely absorbed.

Concealer:
Using a small brush or your fingertips, dab or lightly draw onto the area youwish
to conceal. Blend well into the skin. Then if you wish, set with powder.

Foundation:
Match the foundation to the skin by applying it using either a sponge or brush to the
jawline. Once the correct colour has been selected, apply the foundationin downward
strokes and blend it very well into the hairline as well as the jawline otherwise you will
have a distinct line and it will make it look like a mask.

Corrective Make-up:
Highlighting and contouring. Apply these products directly from the tube witha
brush or sponge. While blending, concentrate on keeping the product in the general
area where it was applied, but use enough to eliminate any

obvious lines. For special occasions or photographs, it can really make a

difference.

Powder:
Apply powder on the areas where you have applied foundation using a powder
puff. Adding extra powder just under the eye, down the bridge ofthe nose and
right under the bottom lip, at the start of your make-up application, can result in
the subtle highlighting of these areas when you are finished. Powder under the
eye also helps catch falling shadow, whichcan easily be brushed away when
you’re done. Brush off any excess powder over the entire face.

Eyebrows:
Make sure the eyebrows have been shaped before applying make-up. Usinga brow
pencil or powder shape, fill in, darken and add warmth to the brows.Brush the
eyebrows up and if necessary use hairspray or wax to keep them in place.

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Eye shadow
Apply the eye shadows using a round brush and blend using a flat brush.
Blending is extremely important as you do not want any harsh lines of colour.
Depending on the face you choose, the eye area is integral for a successful
look.

Eyeliner:
Apply eyeliner as close as possible to the lashes, to avoid the white line you get
when liner and lashes do not connect. Blend well with a liner brush or cotton
bud. For an easier application, soften the tip of the pencilby drawing a few lines
first on a tissue or the back of your hand.

Mascara:
Concentrating mascara at the base of the lash root, then sweeping outwardand
upward, creates a thicker lash look with the ends separated and the base well
defined. Mascara can be applied with the mascara wand or by using a brush to
get as close to the base as possible. Brush out any clots using the eyelash comb.

Blusher:
Apply blusher using the blush brush. Tap off any excess powder blush fromyour
brush before applying. It is easier to build colour in a few light layers than to
remove excess colour and start over.
To add warmth to the skin, use a bronzer on the areas where the sun
normally hits the face – cheeks, forehead, nose and chin.

Lip Liner:
Make sure the lip liner is sharpened and of a fairly firm texture in order to clearly
define and draw across the small lines around the mouth. Lining thelips will also
help to prevent your lipstick from bleeding. If it is necessary, you can correct the
lips so that they are even. To help the lipstick stay on for longer, colour the entire
lip area using the lip pencil.

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Lipstick:
Apply the lipstick using a lip brush. Fill up to the same edge as the lip pencilas you
do not want to have the lip liner line showing. Putting powder over the first
application of lipstick then re-applying will help it to last longer.
Lipstick sealants are also available.

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 Day make-up

Pre-Base: Apply pre-base to even out skin texture.

Concealer: Conceal all imperfections.

Foundation: Foundation to match the skin tone.

Natural foundation for day make-up, not too heavy.

Corrective Use a corrective technique suitable to client’s face shape andneeds.

Make-up: *Use a light hand when doing corrective make-up for day looks.

Powder: Translucent powder to set make-up.

Eyebrows: Darken with pencil or powder.
Natural brown and not too dark.

Eye shadow: Select 3 shades of shadow:

-Medium on the eyelid.
-Dark in the crease.
-Light above dark up to eyebrow.
Do not use shimmer shadows / lips for day make-up.

Eye liner: Use pencil or powder and blend with a cotton bud or small brush.
Do liner on outer corner of eye (¼ top and ¼ bottom).

Mascara: Apply mascara and brush out the clots.

Blush: Apply underneath the cheekbone not further than the pupil of theeye.
Natural blush not too dark.

Lip liner: Correct lips if necessary.

Lipstick: Choose a shade to complement the overall look.

Lipstick can be any colour from light to dark. Use a matt lipstick.

40
 Evening make-up

Pre-Base: Apply pre-base to even out skin texture.

Concealer: Conceal all imperfections.

Foundation: Foundation to match the skin tone.

Foundation can be a little heavier for evening make-up.

Corrective Use a corrective technique suitable to client’s face shape andneeds.

Make-up: Highlighting – 2 shades lighter. Contouring – 2 shades darker.
Blend Well.

Powder: Translucent powder to set make-up.

Eyebrows: Darken with pencil or powder.
Eyebrows can be darker for the evening.

Eye shadow: Choose 3 shades for shadow:

-Light all over the eye area.
-Medium on the eyelid.
-Dark in the crease of the eye.
Medium shimmer shadows can be used for evening make-up.

Eye liner: Use pencil or powder and blend with a cotton bud or smallbrush.
Apply all the way on top and ¼ at the bottom.

Mascara: Apply mascara and brush out the clots.

Blush: Apply underneath the cheekbone not further than the pupil ofthe
eye.
Blush must be dark enough to see in the evening.

Lip liner: Correct lips if necessary.

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 Bridal make-up

Whether the wedding production is subtle or dramatic, the make-up should complement the attire.Always
remember that 50% – 70% of the make-up will disappear on the photographs, so make- up must be dark
enough but also not too dark against the light wedding dress.
Do a trial a month to two weeks before the wedding and always fill in a make-up chart whiledoing
the trial.
When doing the trial, drape a piece of the wedding dress material or a white towel over thebride’s
shoulders to obtain the colour effect, as colours look more intense against white.
Natural colours like pinks, browns and peaches should be used to compliment the look.

Pre-Base: Apply pre-base to even out skin texture.

Concealer: Conceal all imperfections.

Foundation: Foundation to match the skin tone.

Foundation must be natural and not too heavy.
A liquid foundation can be used to get a natural coverage.

Corrective Use a corrective technique suitable to client’s face shape and needs.
Make-up: *Use a light hand when doing corrective make-up for brides.

Powder: Translucent powder to set make-up.

It is important to powder well for the bride not to shine on her photos.

Eyebrows: Darken with pencil or powder.

Make sure eyebrows are shaped well and defined with pencil or powder.

Eye shadow: Choose 3 shades of eye shadow:

-Light all over the eye.
-Medium in “C” blended on to the lid on outer corner of eye.
-Dark in a photographic “C”.
Do not use a very shimmery colour as it will appear sweaty and shiny onthe
photos.

Eye liner: Use pencil or powder and blend with a cotton bud or small brush.Eyeliner
should not be too dark, use brown instead of black.
Apply all the way on top and ¼ at the bottom.

Mascara: Apply mascara and brush out the clots.

Always use waterproof mascara for the bride.

Blush: Apply underneath the cheekbone not further than the pupil of the eye.

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 Add a very light blush to the apple of the cheek to give a little more
colour to the face.

Lip liner: Correct lips if necessary.

Lipstick: Choose a shade to complement the overall look. Natural

shades should be chosen for bridal make-up.
Do not use red lipstick for a bride!

Even though wedding makeup is usually very simple and neutral, it’s one of the hardest makeup looks to
create, since it has to be PERFECT. Makeup should last all day, through all the crying, hugging, kissing,
eating and dancing. You’ll probably want to get your mascara waterproof, lips tobe kiss proof, and their
skin to look flawless. Remember that some foundations and/or powders look different in pictures, since
they reflect light differently. If possible, makeup must be checked and photographed with a flash before
the big day. Also, blend the foundation down the neck someto make sure your brides face does not look
different from the rest of her body.
If your bride wants to get any facial treatments, make sure she gets them several weeks beforethe
wedding day. Sometimes skin can look irritated for the next couple of days after treatments.Shape your
bride’s eyebrows and dye her eyelashes and brows before the wedding day. If you pluck them on your
wedding day, their brows may look red, swollen and irritated.
If they are going to wear contact lenses on their wedding day, let them put their lenses in beforeapplying
your makeup.

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1. Primer
The use of foundation primer depends upon personal preference. Professional makeup artists include
primer in their cosmetic cases for three beneficial reasons: It provides easier applicationand longer
endurance of foundation, it absorbs oil, and it prevents foundation from becoming cakey. If a bride
chooses not to use foundation primer, she can instead prepare her face with agood moisturizer.

2. Foundation
Make-up artists and photographers advocate choosing powders rather than liquid foundation as the base
for bridal makeup. Mineral makeup provides great coverage, lasts long, and gives a matte finish that works
wonderfully for bridal pictures. If deciding to use liquid foundation, opt foran oil-free or matte-finish
formulation, and choose a colour with a hint of yellow that works well with all skin tones. Brides with very
fair complexions can choose foundation with a hint of pink.
Use a cosmetic sponge to apply liquid foundation: Sponges provide lighter, more even coveragethan do
fingers and do not leave lines from fingerprints in the finished face.

3. Concealer
The need for concealer might not exist as the primer and foundation combination may not requirehelp to
even out skin tone. If the additional coverage is needed, apply concealer over the foundation. Applying the
foundation first lessens the amount of concealer needed and prevents brides from looking overly made up.

Choose oil-free concealers with a slightly yellow tone to cover red spots, pimples, or broken capillaries
on the face, but choose a richer, creamier concealer with a peachy tinge for the skinbeneath the eyes.
Dry, oil-free concealers tend to cake under the eyes because the small areacontains no oil glands and
has drier skin than does the face.
Apply concealer with a small brush by gently touching it to the blemish needing coverage and let the
concealer melt over it; additionally, only apply a little at a time - it is easier to add more than remove too
much.

4. Mascara
Unless a bride wants to use false eyelashes, mascara ranks high on the bridal makeup list. Long, dark, and
thick lashes create a beautiful frame that accentuates eyes and turns them into a lovelyfocal point.
Unfortunately, choosing the wrong mascara can ruin the cosmetics used on the bride’sface; fortunately,
one mascara container holds many applications, so a woman can experiment with different types in order
to find the lash enhancer that works best for her wedding day.

Regardless of colour, which depends upon the bride’s complexion, natural lashes, and preference,mascara
worn on the wedding day must have two qualities: waterproof and non-flaking. If the mascara is not
waterproof, a bride my risk streaks of it running down her face, and removing the streaks will ruin the rest
44
of the bridal makeup. Likewise, mascara flakes melt into dark smudges around the entire eye area, and
the focal point of the face becomes a dark mess. Experiment withdifferent mascaras until finding one that
will last through the entire wedding day without droppinga flake.

5. Eyeliner
An eyeliner pencil works adequately for bridal makeup, but if it contains waxy ingredients, it may fade
quickly, run into tiny lines beneath the eye, and require frequent re-application. Cake eyelinerworks better
and lasts longer than a pencil, but it requires practice if it has not before been used. Regardless of the type
used, gently dot the liner between the eyelash roots to give the lashes a lush, thick appearance.

6. Eye Colour
Before applying colour, experts advise priming the eyelid. Eye shadow primer creates a good base for
applying colour, gives the colour longevity, and keeps the eye shadow from smudging.

When putting on the eye shadow, apply the lighter, brighter colours on the area of the eyelid close to the
nose, and graduate the colour so that the further the colour gets from the nose, the darker becomes the
colour. Placing lighter eye shadow on the inside and darker eye shadow on the outside keeps the eye
open, which results in beautifully big, bright eyes. A very small amountof light, shimmery powder applied
to the innermost corner of the eyes with a tiny brush lets eyeslook bright and alert.

7. Lip colour
It is inescapable: Brides do a lot of kissing on their wedding day. Whether she opts for lipstick, lip stain, or
lip-gloss, a woman’s best lip colour choice is to find a lasting product for her wedding day. Many
companies produce lip colour created to last an entire day, but repeated applications ofa conditioning lip
balm may be needed to prevent the lips from drying out.
A bride can make regular lipstick last longer by applying a layer, blotting her lips with tissuepaper,
lightly powdering the lips, and applying a second layer of lipstick.
Before applying any lip colour, lightly exfoliate the lips using a lip scrub; gently massaging the lips
with a toothbrush also works. After exfoliation removes dead, dry flakes of skin, moisturize the lipswith lip
balm. These two quick steps prepare the lips for colour.
To keep lip colour from bleeding, define the lips, and to keep the colour lasting longer, use a lippencil to
fill in the entire surface of the lips. Follow this step whether lip colour comes in stick, stain, or gloss
form.

8. Blush
Use blush for a healthy, radiant glow. For bridal makeup, experts prefer powder blush, which doesnot
shine as much as cream blush. If using blush in cream form, however, dust the colour with powder to set
it, and include oil-blotting sheets in a touch-up bag. If possible, use a blush formulated for extended wear.

45
When Mistakes Happen
If a mistake is made, use a cotton swab dipped into makeup remover rather than using a wipe. Awipe
removes everything; a cotton swab erases only the error.
Experiment with different colours and become familiar with how much bridal makeup to apply before
the wedding day. If a woman normally wears little makeup, this type of experimentationlets her wear
full bridal makeup a few times before the big day, so it feels more comfortable.
The largest mistake women make with their bridal makeup is in creating an unfamiliar face. Abride
should enhance her face rather than change it. Although the results may be stunning,

women who prefer a natural look in daily living but create a bold, vivid look for a wedding andwomen
who wear vivid makeup everyday but tone it down for the wedding face later disappointment when
strangers look back at them from wedding photographs.

Brides today
The Indian Bride
The most important of all Indian bridal make up tips is to make your clients
skin look healthy and glowing on the wedding day. Just taking care of it a
week before the D-day will not help. Skin needs time to take in the
nourishment and treatments. Over doing the treatments may lead to further
damage. Inform your bride to indulge in the treatments from two months or
at least six weeks before the weddingday. Though Indian bridal make up is
gorgeous with red and gold hues predominating but the make-up shouldn't
be over the top and should naturally enhance the dewy radiance of the
bride. Bridal make-up can effectively correct any imperfection or marks that
the bride may have in her face. So, over all bridal make up forms an integral
part of a brides wedding day. Usually Indian bridal make-up is
unconventional in that brilliant colours are used, sparkling cream eye
shadows are very popular and intense glossy lips are prominent with the
Indian bride. Indian brides commonly use Kajal (another name forKohl, an
eye cosmetic in use since ancient times in several parts of Asia, Middle East
& Africa). Kajal may also be referred to Kohl Liner.
Kajal is safe to apply on the inside rim of the eyes, Indian brides generally
desire to have Kajal applied all the way at the top & bottom;including inside
rim of eyes to create a dramatic eye effect & frame the eyes. Indian brides
love to show off ‘red carpet looks. They wear saris in various shades of red
combined with pink, gold, brown or evenwhite as opposed to the traditional
white wedding dress. So be sure toask the bride what46her dress looks like on
the day.
 Romantic Style Bride
The make-up should be delicate, restricted to pastel colours. Avoid using
contrasting colours and refrain from precise contouring of the eyes, browsand lips.
Do not apply heavy matt powder over the face. You want the natural glow of the
skin to come through the makeup for this look. A lighttouch of highlighter on the
cheekbones will give a natural and fresh look.

Classic Style Bride

False lashes, contrasting eyelid make-up suits this dramatic style bride,
must accentuate the eye make-up. The best palette for this type of
makeup includes browns, green and burgundy shades. Boldintense
lipstick can also be used.

Vintage Style Bride

Matt red lipstick is inevitably associated with the vintage style bride.

Eyeliner on the eyelids and bold lipsare ideal for this pin-up style.

Porcelain foundation is a must for this vintage bridal look.

Coloured Smokey-Eyed Bride

Provides the face with a fresh intense look. Coloured eyes look
younger and more fresh. This is the perfect make-up for a bridethat
doesn’t wear a classic white dress.

The modern Bride

A very subtle makeup – shades of browns, champagnesand suede are

used. Well suited for a modest bride. The aim of this make-up is to bring

out natural beautywithout harsh lines and bold colours.

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