SITE SELECTION FOR ORGANIC COMPOSTING

Introduction:
Composting is simply the process
of turning organic matter that is ready
for disposal into something beneficial.
Basically, organic materials like
vegetables matter, eggshells, coffee
grinds, tea-bags (anything that is not
animal-based) is placed in a suitable
container or pile to decompose.
Overtime, these materials turn into rich
form of soil that is absolutely chock-full
of vitamins and can help grow healthy
plants and ward off harmful pests.
Anything that is organic and not animal based is viable for composting.
This includes paper products, trimmed grasses, twigs or leaves from lawns or
gardens. In order to stay organic, be sure everything to compost is also free of
toxic chemicals.
Incorporating vitamin-rich earth from a compost pile into the soil of a
garden can make the plants healthy and flavorful.
By composting, it helps reduces the amount of waste that is being
directed into the landfills. This means a reduction of concentrated, toxic
leachates and methane gas that is being released into the atmosphere, which
equates to a decrease in overall pollution. Composting also cuts down on the
usage of chemicals fertilizers which are harmful to water supply.
Furthermore, composting can save money by decreasing farm inputs.
Here are some other importance of composting.
Nourish earth. Composting converts significant portion of household
waste up to 35% into healthy soil. It also decreases soil erosion by enhancing
soil structure. It returns a diverse number of nutrients to the soil with the
help of microbial activities in the soil. It reduces watering needs by improving
water retention in the soil and suppresses plants diseases and weeds.
Skip Landfill. Composting sends less material to the landfill the waste
used for compost.
Clean Air. Composting requires oxygen and water. This process emits
carbon dioxide as a result. However, when organics decompose in a landfill
where they are tightly covered up without oxygen pr water, methane is
produced. Unfortunately, methane traps 25 times more heat than carbon
dioxide and is much more powerful greenhouse gases.
On the other hand, in order to have a good compost, the site requires the
following characteristics:
1. Good drainage system. Good drainage is important in order to avoid
standing water and the build-up of anaerobic conditions.
2. Availability of water supply. Water is the key element that helps
transport substances within the compost pile and makes the nutrients in the
organic material accessible to microbes. Feedstocks such as food scraps
contain some moisture in varying amounts, but moisture may also come in
the form of rainfall or intentional watering.
3. Proximity to the source of raw materials. Having the right
proportions of ingredients in your compost pile will provide the composting
microorganisms with the carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, and moisture they need to
break down the materials into finished compost.
4. Accessibility of composting site. Accessibility of composting site helps
us to monitor every day the compost condition. The location of the composting
facility is a very important factor in a successful compost operation. To
minimize material handling, the composting facility should be located as close
as possible to the source of organic waste.
5. Area of minimum contamination. Compost contamination is when
non-compostable items end up mixed with organics in a compost bin.
contaminated compost include poor seed germination, twisted or malformed
new growth, elongated fruit and leaves, and death of younger plants.
6. Type of soils. By-products from growing roots and plant residues feed
soil organisms. In turn, soil organisms support plant health as they
decompose organic matter, cycle nutrients, enhance soil structure and control
the populations of soil organisms, both beneficial and harmful (pests and
pathogens) in terms of crop productivity.
7. Area with minimal sunlight. As a general rule, place your composter
in a location where it gets some sunlight, but not in full sun. The solar heat
can be useful in the cooler months, but direct sunlight will dry out compost
rapidly.

Information sheet 3.1-2

Composting Methods and Lay-outs

There are several ways to make compost. The differences are due to available technology, socio-
cultural practices, required input and labor, etc.

In this lesson, you will learn about the different methods of composting. The methods identified in
this lesson are just few of the many methods of composting.
Topic 1: Rapid Composting Methods
Rapid composting refers to a set of composting methods that reduce the time required to harvest
compost. The three methods that will be discussed in this topic are the 14-day Method, the Chinese
Rural Composting Method, and the IBS Rapid Composting Method.

Topic 1: Rapid Composting Methods

Chinese Rural Composting – High Temperature Method
from On-farm composting methods by FAO (2003)
Materials:

 animal manure and plant residues (1:4)

 water
 bamboo poles
 mud
 shovel
Procedures:

1. Collect animal manure and plant materials (ratio = 1:4).

2. Pile in alternate layers starting with chopped plant materials followed by animal waste.
3. Insert bamboo poles in the compost heap for aeration.
4. Add water to an optimal amount.
5. Add 3 cm of mud on top.
6. After 2 days, remove the bamboo poles, leaving holes for aeration.
7. After two weeks, turn the pile. Add more manure or water for moisture. Add another layer of
mud.
8. In 2 months, the compost will be ready for harvest. The compost should have an earthy
smell, not a foul odor. The raw materials should be unrecognizable and broken down to
humus.

Topic 1: Rapid Composting Methods

14-Day Method
from Organic Agriculture Training Manual by PCAARRD (2012)
Materials:

 plant materials and animal manure (1:1)

 20kg plant materials
 20kg animal manure
 shovel
 1m x 1m plastic sheet
 banana/coconut leaves or jute sacks

Procedures:

1. Optional: If you want to prevent the nutrients from leaching, place a plastic sheet at the base
of the compost pile. Add soil up to 10 – 20cm high around the plastic to create a “shallow
tank.”
2. Bring plant and animal materials to the compost site.
3. Reduce the size of the plant materials by using a shredder or by manual chopping.
4. Mix the crop materials with equal amount of fresh manure (ratio = 50:50).
5. Pile the mixture into a heap, measuring at least 1m x 1m x 1m (length, width, height).
6. Cover the heap with banana leaves, coconut leaves, or other suitable material such as
damaged jute sacks.
7. After 3-4 days, check if the compost heap is generating heat. If not, add more manure.
8. On the same day, turn the pile inside out – from the center to the outer sides. This will also
improve aeration.
9. Turn the heap after every 2 days to hasten decomposition.
10. In 14 – 18 days, the compost will be ready for harvest. The compost should have an earthy
smell, not a foul odor. The raw materials should be unrecognizable and broken down to
humus.

Topic 1: Rapid Composting Methods

IBS Rapid Composting
from On-farm composting methods by FAO (2003)
The IBS (Institute of Biological Sciences) Rapid Composting method is also an example of rapid
composting method, with the additional use of compost fungus activator (CFA).
Materials:

 Trichoderma harzianum (CFA)

 substrates: rice straw, weeds, grasses, ipil-ipil leaves, legumes, chicken manure
 compost pen OR bamboo poles with holes
 plastic sheet/sack

Procedures:

1. Collect raw materials for the compost.

2. Reduce the size of the plant materials by using a shredder or by manual chopping.
3. Mix carbonaceous and nitrogenous substrates at a ratio of 4:1. Some possible combinations
are:
o 3-parts rice straw to 1-part ipil-ipil;
o 4-parts rice straw to 1-part chicken manure
o 4-parts grasses to 1-part legumes to 1-part manure
4. Pile the substrates loosely in a compost pen that is raised 30 cm from the ground. OR pile
the substrates and insert perforated bamboo poles horizontally and vertically.
5. Scatter the CFA onto the substrates during piling. Use 1% or more of the total weight of the
substrates for faster decomposition. Mix thoroughly.
6. Cover with plastic sheet or plastic sack.
7. The compost heap will gain heat in 24-48 hours. Maintain the temperature at 50 0C or higher.
8. Turn the pile every 5 – 7 days for the first two weeks, and thereafter once every two weeks.
9. The compost will be ready for harvest in 21 – 45 days. The compost should have an earthy
smell, not a foul odor. The raw materials should be unrecognizable and broken down to
humus.
10. Harvest the compost and let it dry under the sun for 2 days.
11. Place in sacks and store in a shaded area.

Topic 2: Conventional Composting

from Organic Agriculture Training Manual by PCAARRD (2012)
Materials:

 plant residues
 animal manure
 soil
 spade/shovel
 plastic sheet
 PVC pipe/bamboo sticks

Procedures:

1. Optional: If you want to prevent the nutrients from leaching, place a plastic sheet at the base
of the compost pile. Add soil up to 10 – 20cm high around the plastic to create a “shallow
tank.”
2. Bring plant and animal materials to the compost site.
3. Reduce the size of the plant materials by using a shredder or by manual chopping.
4. You can add soil and/or ashes to the compost pile.
5. Build compost layers in the following sequence:

1st layer (bottom): crop and other plant residues (15cm)

 2nd layer (middle): animal manure (8cm)

3rd layer (topmost): soil (3cm)

6. Repeat the sequence until the pile is 1-meter high.

7. Insert a hollow tube (bamboo stick or PVC pipe) in the middle of the pile for air to enter and
circulate. You can also put holes in the PVC pipe for added aeration.
8. Water the pile until it is sufficiently moist. Water regularly to maintain moisture content at
45 – 60%.
9. Begin turning the pile after 3 weeks. Afterwards, turn the pile every after 1 week.
10. The compost will be ready for harvest in 3-4 months. The compost should have an earthy
smell, not a foul odor. The raw materials should be unrecognizable and broken down to
humus.

Topic 3: Vermicomposting
Vermicomposting is a special method of fertilizer production that utilizes earthworms in converting
organic materials into high-quality compost. In this method, waste materials first undergo
thermophilic decomposition and then earthworm decomposition.

The earthworms bury themselves in the soil, feed on organic materials and deposit their manure
or vermicast directly.

Vermicompost has several uses:

 soil conditioner
 potting media
 source of vermitea (foliar fertilizer)
 fertilizer in fishponds
 compost enhancer

Species of Earthworms Used in Vermicomposting

(can be bought from a pet shop or nursery)

 African Night Crawler or Eudrilus eugeniae – most popular

 Savigny or Eisenia fetida
 Hoffmeister or Lumbricus rubellus
 Perrier or Perionyx excavates

Worm Bins

The worms are cultured in worm bins to ensure regular supply at the beginning of compost
production. The bins serve as their habitat, protecting them from excessive sunlight, rain, and
predators.

The bins are usually rectangular in shape. The flooring can be made from plastic sheets while the
support structure can be made of wood, bamboo, or iron bars. Plastic covers are also placed above
the bins to protect from predators and to prevent the worms from escaping.

Vermicompost Production
Materials:

 earthworms
 substrates
  farm waste
 animal manure
 plant material
 IMO solution (20mL IMO per 1L of water)
 plastic sheets
 vermi bed/vermiculture unit
 shovel

Procedures:

Thermophilic Decomposition

1. Collect substrates/raw materials for the compost. Recommended ratio for the compost is
50% animal manure, 25% nitrogen-rich plants, 25% grasses or farm waste.
2. Reduce the size of the plant materials by using a shredder or by manual chopping.
3. Optional: Place a plastic sheet at the base of the compost pile to prevent nutrients from
leaching. Add soil up to 10 – 20cm high around the plastic to create a “shallow tank.
4. Arrange the substrates into layers. Start with the animal manure for the first layer, followed
by plant materials in the second layer.
5. Spray IMO solution on top of the second layer.
6. Repeat Steps 4&5 until all substrates have been used up.
7. Cover the heap with banana leaves, coconut leaves, or other suitable material such as
damaged jute sacks to accelerate decomposition.
8. Water the pile until it is moist enough. Do this regularly to keep the moisture content at 45 –
60%.
9. After 2-4 weeks, it is ready for the earthworms.

Earthworm Decomposition

1. For every m2, add 1 kg of earthworm.

2. Water the pile until it is moist enough. Do this for 2-3 times a week to keep the moisture
content at 50 – 80%.
3. The vermicompost will be ready for harvest when the raw materials have turned into black
granules.

The method of housing the worms is site specific and person specific.
Conditions obtaining in one place may not be present in another. As such, the
vermiculturist should decide what is best suited for him and his place.
However, a word of caution at this point is that for first-timers, it is better to
use tried and tested methods before modification and combinations are done.
With more experience and confidence, modifications and combinations may be
instituted. The following are the options for the layout and housing type:
 Wormbins/wormbeds may be made of any material available whether
iron bars with plastic lining, old plastic basins, bamboo slats or hollow blocks.
The advantage of wormbins/wormbeds is that they are movable and can be
transferred at will. Care however should be taken that they are properly
protected from direct sunlight, too much water and natural predators. The
substrate is placed in the wormbeds where the worms feed on them. Figure 1
shows an example of wormbeds/bin.
 Figure 1. An example of wormbed/wormbin.

 Windrows are piles of substrate that are decomposed before feeding

them to the worms. They are usually about 1 meter wide and at least 1 meter
high and can be any length desired or practicable. They have also to be
covered either by plastic material or any organic material that will protect the
substrate and ultimately the worms from the elements and natural predators.
Figure 2 shows an example set-up of windrows.

Figure 2 shows an example set-up of windrows.

 Housing structures are the best options but are also the most
expensive so will be considered when finances permit. However, if there are
abandoned structures within the site, these can be used as well for the
purpose. Figure 3 shows an example of housing structure.
 Figure 3 shows an example set-up of housing structure.

 In the more developed countries where labor is expensive, some

companies opt for mechanical systems. Again, this can be explored when the
project is big enough and finances warrant this option because while the
manpower is low, the capital expenditure is high and hugely dependent on
electricity. Figure 4 shows a mechanical system for composting.

Figure 4. Mechanical system for composting.

Sources of Organic Materials

Organic matter is a collective term for decomposed materials originating from carbon-based compounds
or organisms such as plants and animals. It serves as the main pool of nutrients for crops as well as the
venue for biological activity in the soil.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Using Organic Fertilizers
In Module 1, you have learned that the Organic Movement was borne from the ill effects of the Green
Revolution. This period in agriculture was characterized by the heavy use of chemical fertilizers,
pesticides, and herbicides.

Table 1. Organic Fertilizer vs. Chemical-based Fertilizer

Properties of Soil Organic Fertilizer
Improves structure
by adjusting the
arrangement of soil
particles
Physical Property Soil become porous
For light textured
soil, it increases
water holding
capacity while for
heavy textured soil,
easy to drain
Chemical Property Adds organic macro
and micronutrients
Chemical-based
Fertilizer
Destroy soil
structure (massive)
Soil become
compact and hard
due to fillers present
in the material
No contribution on
the improvement of
the water holding
capacity of the soil
No organic matter
addition

Biological Property
Contains 1-4
Provides both macro
elements and mostly
and micronutirents
macronutrients only
Contributes to the
Improves soil pH
acidity of the soil
Lowers toxicity level
of micronutrients
Increases Kills most of
population density of beneficial
beneficial microorganisms in
microorganism the soil
Promotes
biodiversity

Any farm aiming to get an organic certification must not use conventional/synthetic/ chemical fertilizers.
Farm operators are instead encouraged to use organic fertilizers.

Disclaimer: Using organic fertilizers may be inconvenient during the first 1-3 years or in the beginning
of converting to organic agriculture.

Tip: During this period, you can complement organic fertilizers with other organic soil amendments.
Organic fertilizers will build soil fertility over a period of time. This will eventually decrease the need
for other soil amendments.

Effects of Inorganic Fertilizer

Inorganic fertilizers are fertilizers manufactured through chemical synthesis. They contain high amounts
of essential plant nutrients which accounts for why the use of inorganic fertilizer saw an increase in
global food production. However, the continued use of inorganic fertilizers brought with it the
degradation of agricultural lands and agroecosystems.
Site Selection for Organic Composting

In summary, a good composting site has the following characteristics:

 Good drainage system
 Availability of water supply
 Proximity to the source of raw materials
 Accessibility of the composting site
 Area of minimum contamination
 Area with minimal sunlight

References
Chandini, Kumar, R., Kumar, R., & Prakash, O. (2019). The Impact of Chemical Fertilizers on our
Environment and Ecosystem. In P. Sharma, Research Trends in Environmental Sciences (pp. 69-86).