French Brasserie Cookbook - The Heart of French Home Cooking 2011

DANIEL GALMICHE
FRENCH
BRASSERIE
COOKBOOK
THE HEART OF FRENCH HOME COOKING
Dedication
To three very special people: to my mum, Anne-Marie, and my late Great-Aunt Suzanne for their love and passion for cooking, which
they passed on to me; and to my first teacher, the late Yves Lalloz, who took me on when I was 15 and guided me wisely through my
three-year apprenticeship with him; and finally to my wife, Claire, for her charm, friendship and unconditional support, and my son
Antoine, whose love of life and food is contagious. My profound thanks to you all.
FOREWORD
Ever since my first wonderful meal at Harvey’s in Bristol many years ago, I have been a great fan of
Daniel’s cooking. He is a true master of contemporary French cuisine and his passion, expertise and
attention to detail have ensured that dining at his table is never a disappointment. Who better, then, to
teach the classics of the French kitchen?
The French Brasserie Cookbook contains all the recipes that you would expect, from Cheese Soufflé
to Duck Rillettes, from Bouillabaisse to the perfect tarte tatin, but many of the classics have been
given Daniel’s unique twists. Alongside traditional onion soup, cassoulet and Beef Bourguignon are
Lime Risotto, Moules Marinières with Lemongrass & Chilli, and Coffee Crème Caramel. It’s a
fantastic combination of recipes and flavours.
And despite Daniel’s huge talent as a Michelinstarred chef, this book is extremely accessible. It is
practical, unfussy and easy to use but, most satisfyingly, it is full of inspiring recipes that will
immediately transport you to a French brasserie in your own home.
Heston Blumenthal
Contents
INTRODUCTION
Les Bases
THE BASICS
Les Entrées
STARTERS
Les Viandes
MEAT, POULTRY & GAME
Les Poissons et Les Fruits de Mer
FISH & SHELLFISH
Les Plats Végétariens
VEGETARIAN DISHES
Les Accompagnements et Salades
SIDE DISHES & SALADS
Les Desserts
DESSERTS
INTRODUCTION
What is it about brasseries?

I’m sitting on my balcony at home, musing on food as usual and asking myself what it is about
brasseries that we all love so much. So I’m thinking ... you can take a trip to Paris for a weekend and
find yourself wandering happily through the wide boulevards, cobbled side streets and paved
courtyards. You spot a stylish yet unassuming terrace and think you might sit outside and watch the
world go by for an hour or so – but something draws you in. Is it the warm ambience and friendly
faces? Is it the dark polished wood of the bar and ornate handles of the bar dispenser ready to serve
you beer on tap? Is it the shining brass, the comfortable banquettes or the stunning art deco mirrors?
Or is it quite simply the fantastic and mouth-watering smell of food drifting out of the kitchen?
Whatever it is, it’s irresistible.
As soon as you enter a brasserie in France, you are struck by a feeling of timelessness. You’re
ushered to a table by a garçon de café with a long, white apron, black bow tie and a quirky sense of
humour. He seems to glide effortlessly amid the hustle and bustle of the busy interior and settles you
into a cosy corner made more intimate by the stained-glass partition that boasts an elaborate hand-
painted scene in the style of Toulouse Lautrec or a simple fleur de lys. You gaze around at the
tarnished candlesticks and glamorous chandeliers and yet there is nothing grand or intimidating about
being here – there’s too much laughter and conviviality in the air for that. And it occurs to you that
brasseries are something of a paradox: sophisticated yet informal, chic yet unpretentious, boisterous
yet elegant.
Popular for more than a century, brasseries are the fabled haunt of artists and writers, the meeting
place of politicians and prime ministers, an attraction where both tourists and locals alike linger to
see and be seen. But it’s not for the fashion or the frivolity that they gather here – it’s for the food.
So how did it all start?

The word ‘brasserie’ actually means ‘brewery’ in French. In 1864, Frédéric Bofinger, a brewer from
Alsace in northeastern France (the region that borders my own, Franche-Comté), made his way to
Paris and opened a tiny bar in the heart of the Marais and Faubourg Saint-Antoine area. It served little
more than draft beer and sauerkraut. At that time, numerous people were moving to Paris from war-
torn Alsace in search of work, so there was a ready market. Beer on tap was unheard of in Paris back
then and the quality of the sauerkraut was second to none. The combination took the city by storm and
in no time brasseries were springing up all over Paris. The rest of France soon followed, and I think,
for this reason, Bofinger could rightly claim to be the father of the Parisian brasserie. What started as
a smoky bar filled with Alsatian refugees grew into a magnificent dining room with polished wood,
gleaming brass and a stained-glass dome.
Today, brasseries are fashionable hotspots where politicians continue to rub shoulders with
artists – but there is more to them than glamour. Brasseries are popular because the food they serve is
homely, heart-warming and delicious. You can eat a simple sandwich or enjoy a grand repas, and
they will often serve everything from early breakfasts right through to late suppers in the small hours.
Among the famous brasseries in Paris are: Bofinger, La Coupole and Brasserie Lipp, to name but a
few. However, no matter where you are in France, if you find a good brasserie, you will find a good
meal – and you won’t have to pay a fortune for it either.
Some brasseries will be modern and chic and some laden with so much history they are
practically national monuments. But choose carefully – there are plenty on main streets, but the best
ones are often tucked away down side streets and hidden behind porchways.
How many restaurants can boast the illustrious likes of Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald,
Salvador Dalí, Henry Miller, Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse among their clientele? Well, La
Coupole can. Few people take a trip to Paris without visiting this renowned brasserie at least once.
It is said that, in 1944, when the Allied armies were poised to move into Paris to liberate it, the
writer Ernest Hemingway became frustrated at the delay because he wanted to eat at his favourite
brasserie. Borrowing a car, he drove unprotected into the French capital a whole day before the
official liberators made their move and decided to ‘liberate’ La Coupole personally. The things we
will do for the love of food!
From region to region

Brasseries make the most of local produce. There is a kind of regional pride, which ensures that you
will always be served the best of whatever is grown or produced in the region. So eating in a
brasserie in the South of France is a very different experience to eating in one in, say, Brittany. They
all promote their own regional classics, often alongside well-known dishes from other areas. In
Franche-Comté (my region), it could be Morteau sausage with sautéed potatoes and melted Vacherin
Mont d’or cheese. Up the road in Alsace, it could be choucroute (sauerkraut) or baeckeoffe (a kind
of hotpot of potatoes, onion and pork). In Brest in Brittany, it could be seabass baked in a sea-salt
crust, and in Paris it might be coq au vin. And if you are in one of France’s great brasseries, you will
probably find all these specialities on one menu. Whatever region you find yourself in, brasseries
will always offer a great variety of food. So whether you want to have a quick meeting over a coffee
and a croissant or to while away the hours with a friend over steak frites and a glass of red wine,
you’re in the right place.
Home from home

Actually, cooking French food doesn’t need to be complicated, and bringing brasserie dishes into the
home is returning them to their rightful place. After all, this is where most of them started, as most
popular regional dishes served in brasseries would have been the ones that were originally firm
family favourites. For example, if you lived in nancy in Lorraine, you would probably have eaten
quiche lorraine; and if you lived in Bouches-du-Rhône, near Marseilles, it would have been
bouillabaisse (a fish dish made with saffron and tomatoes), boudin noir (black pudding), coq au vin,
tarte aux pommes (apple tart), crème caramel – all dishes that were cooked at home long before they
were available in brasseries. Perhaps that’s the reason why they have a special place in our hearts.
The love of food has been with me as long as I can remember. My experience has come from
sources that range from my grandmother to Michel Roux, but for me, the journey started with the
wonderful home cooking of my grandmother. (I call her Grand-Mère in this book, although she was
actually my great aunt; she took my natural grandmother’s place so readily after her passing that it
would have felt odd for us children to call her anything else.) My first memory is of Grand-Mère’s
kitchen on the farm my grandparents owned in Franche-Comté, where I passed much of my childhood.
I spent most Sunday afternoons and a large part of the summer holidays playing in haystacks around
the farm with my brother and sister. If we weren’t chasing cows, we were stealing cherries from the
neighbouring farm, stuffing as many as we could into our mouths and pockets before the farmer could
catch us. Even now when I walk through fields, I find it hard to resist such temptations – old habits
die hard, I guess!
If I close my eyes and think back, I can still recall the scent of freshly baked cakes luring me in
from the fields. It wasn’t long before I was in that kitchen constantly: watching, learning, helping
Grand-Mère prepare the fruit I’d collected. I’m told that, at the age of five, I stood in the middle of
the kitchen and announced, ‘When I grow up, I’m going to be a chef!’ Funny how history has a habit of
repeating itself: I have a beautiful son who, strangely enough, at the age of five, stood in the middle of
my kitchen and said, ‘When I grow up, I’m going to be a chef!’ Well, what can you do?
My father, who was also called Daniel, played a large part, too. He was very close to nature, and
walks were a daily routine that he always said he couldn’t do without. There was nothing he loved
more – apart, perhaps, from hunting for food and then sharing the meal with family and friends. My
father was what we call in France une fine gueule, which I can only translate as ‘somebody who
really loves good food’. We used to walk through the ancient, plentiful forests and he would tell me
about the plants, the trees and the animal footprints that we came across. I hold such special memories
of these days.
Papa and I usually went pheasant hunting on a Saturday and so would be woken up on Sunday
morning by the scent of delicately smoked bacon and pheasant roasting in red wine, which Maman
(the other wonderful cook of my childhood) had been preparing since who knows what time.
Sometimes there would even be an apple tart in the oven at the same time and the combination of
aromas would drift up the stairs and pull us out of our cosy beds. The pheasant was normally
prepared with braised cabbage and roasted turnips glazed in the pheasant jus. Utterly delicious and
quintessential French home cooking.
Maman was another great cook taught by Grand-Mère (she had no choice but to be a great cook
because Papa loved food so much). I just happened to be around when she was cooking – eating,
tasting and cooking – completely unaware that my future was being shaped at that time.
When I became an apprentice chef at the age of fifteen, I had no idea how hard it was going to be.
I had to complete three years before I could reach the next stage of becoming a commis chef, and there
was still a long road ahead. I was catapulted from restaurant to restaurant, learning more and more as
I went until, finally, I was given my first Head Chef position. Having reached this position, it started
all over again. Passion, hard work and sheer bullheadedness somehow got me where I am today.
I hope my love of simple brasserie food not only encourages you to cook at home and enjoy the
food you would normally just eat on holiday, but also inspires you to become hunters and gatherers
again. How much more fun is it to take the children fruit picking or fishing than to drag them round the
supermarket on a Saturday afternoon? I’m not expecting anyone to go out and spear the nearest wild
boar, just to entice you to go, say, strawberry picking or foraging for wild garlic.
In this book, you will find some lovely, uncomplicated dishes that come from all over France.
Some are traditional with a twist (for example, I have made them lighter or more up-to-date); others
are specialities from particular regions but made my way. All of these recipes are ones that I cook at
home with my wife, Claire, and son, Antoine. Hopefully, once you’ve tried them, you will make them
again and again. I wanted to create a book that’s not too ‘cheffy’ (the kind that only chefs can follow),
a straightforward home cookbook that’s fun to read and inspires you to cook some really terrific
French food – so don’t leave it on the coffee table! If you use this cookbook on a regular basis, it will
make me very happy.
A few technical terms

Here is a glossary of some of the culinary terms and techniques I’ve used when writing these recipes
– you may be familiar with some of them but less so others.
TO JULIENNE: Cut vegetables or fruit zest into thin sticks 1–2mm/ – in thick and 3cm/1¼in
long, using a knife or a mandoline. They are generally cooked in butter (and the zest in syrup),
covered, until quite soft. Raw vegetables that are to be served as an hors d’oeuvre can also be cut in
juliennes.
TO BOIL: When using a deep saucepan with the amount of liquid required, you bring it to the boil
over direct heat and maintain it for the specific time given in your recipe method.
TO POACH: When you cook food in a liquid (this can be water, bouillon, stock, or syrup) that is
very hot but not bubbling, at a temperature just below the simmer. Suitable for gently cooking poultry,
meat, vegetables, eggs or fruit, and delicate foods that could break in a vigorously bubbling liquid.
TO SIMMER: When you cook food in a hot liquid kept just below the boiling point and bubbling
very gently.
TO BRAISE: When you roast or brown a piece of meat, poultry or vegetable in fat, then add a small
amount of liquid and simmer in a covered pot over a low heat.
TO FRY: To cook in hot fat (oil, butter or lard), with food either totally submerged (deep frying) or
fat coming halfway up the food (pan-frying). Often used to cook vegetable juliennes, potatoes, fish
and chicken.
TO GRIDDLE: When you chargrill meat, poultry, fish or vegetables in a heavy-based frying pan
over a high heat. There are two types of griddle pans – ridged and flat. For my recipes I use the
ridged variety that produces charred lines. These look impressive and create a lovely, gentle,
caramelized flavour.
TO SAUTÉ: When you put a little fat (oil, butter or lard) in a shallow pan, add potatoes, vegetables,
mushrooms, meat, poultry or fruits, and quickly toss them over a medium to high heat to brown or
cook through. It is important to keep the food moving around the pan.
TO DEGLAZE: When, after sautéeing, you add a liquid, such as alcohol, juice or vinegar, stir to
dissolve the caramelized brown bits in the pan, and then allow half to evaporate quickly. If you are
using alcohol, you can set it alight (flamber it).
TO REDUCE: When you have a lot of liquid in a pan, and you need to decrease the volume over a
medium to high heat. Make sure you get to the level or consistency directed in the recipe method.
CONFIT: When a piece of pork, goose, duck or turkey is cooked in its own fat and stored in a pot, it
is called confit. A vegetable confit would be done in olive oil. To ‘confit’ something is one of the
oldest means of storing food.
RAGOÛT: A stew made from meat, poultry, game, fish or vegetables that are cut into pieces of
uniform size and shape and cooked with or without first being browned in a sauté pan. It is generally
flavoured with herbs and spices. The ragoût dates back to the 17th century when, in classic French,
the word was used to describe anything that stimulated the appetite.
TIAN: The name given to a dish that consists of alternate layers of sliced vegetables. It may be made
with or without onions and garlic, but would definitely be sprinkled with herbs and well seasoned. It
is also the name of Provençal earthenware pots.
Les Bases
THE BASICS
Stocks, sauces and pastry are essential ingredients in many classic French dishes, and in this
chapter I will be showing you how to make them. With my stocks, I like to have the real flavour
of the main ingredient coming through – the intensity is the vital thing. Sauces are important
too. Although they are often made with a few, simple ingredients, they can transform a plain
dish into something really special. I’m passionate about good pastry, which is the foundation of
many of my favourite recipes and essential to a good pie or tart – whether it is savoury or
sweet.
Fond de volaille
CHICKEN STOCK
Makes 2l/70fl oz/8 cups
Preparation time 10 minutes, plus 1 hour cooling
Cooking time 2 hours 40 minutes
2kg/4lb 8oz chicken wings or bones, or 2 chicken carcasses

1 thyme sprig
2 carrots, peeled and halved lengthways
1 small handful of curly parsley stems
1 small onion, unpeeled and halved
6 black peppercorns
Put all the ingredients in a large, heavy-based saucepan, cover with 4l/140fl oz/16 cups cold water
and bring to the boil over a high heat. As soon as the stock starts to boil, foam will begin to form on
the surface. Reduce the heat to low and skim off the foam, using a ladle, then simmer gently,
uncovered, for 2–2½ hours. By this time the liquid will have reduced by half and the flavour will
have intensified. Remove from the heat, pass the stock through a sieve, using a ladle to help you, then
leave it to cool for at least 1 hour. Your stock is then ready to use.
If you want to freeze your stock, divide the cooled stock into small plastic tubs with lids, leaving
some space for it to expand, and pop the containers in the freezer. Your stock will keep for up to 4
weeks.
Fond d’agneau
LAMB STOCK
1.25kg/2lb 12oz lamb bones, trimmed and prepared by your butcher

2 tbsp olive oil
1 rosemary or thyme sprig
2 parsley sprigs
1 garlic bulb, unpeeled and halved crossways
1 small onion, unpeeled and quartered
6 black peppercorns
2 large tomatoes, quartered
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Put the bones in a baking tray and roast for 20 minutes or
until golden brown, stirring occasionally to make sure they colour evenly. Remove the bones from the
tray and put them in a large, heavy-based saucepan. Add all the remaining ingredients, except the
tomatoes, and cook over a medium heat for 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, then cook for a further 10
minutes.
Add 4l/140fl oz/16 cups cold water and bring to the boil over a high heat. As soon as the stock starts
to boil, foam will begin to form on the surface. Reduce the heat to low and skim off the foam, using a
ladle. Simmer for 1 hour, uncovered, then top up the water to its previous level and simmer for a
further 2 hours. By this time the liquid will have reduced by half. Remove from the heat, pass the
stock through a sieve, using a ladle to help you, then leave it to cool for at least 1 hour. It should be a
lovely, shiny, clear, golden brown colour. Your stock is then ready to use.
weeks.
Fumet de poisson
FISH STOCK
1.25kg/2lb 12oz fresh fish bones, flesh removed

1 small handful of curly parsley stems
1 small onion, unpeeled and quartered
1 thyme sprig
1 celery stick, peeled and halved
6 black peppercorns
Place the fish bones in a large bowl, cover with cold water and rest for 10 minutes, then rinse
thoroughly using a sieve. Repeat three times.
Put the bones in a large heavy-based saucepan with all the other ingredients, cover with 4l/140fl
oz/16 cups cold water and bring to the boil over a high heat. As soon as the stock starts to boil, foam
will begin to form on the surface. Reduce the heat to low and skim off the foam, using a ladle, then
simmer gently, uncovered, for 2–2½ hours. By this time the liquid will have reduced by half and the
flavour will have intensified. Remove from the heat, pass the stock through a sieve, using a ladle to
help you, then leave it to cool for at least 1 hour. Your stock is then ready to use.
weeks.
Bouillon de légumes
VEGETABLE STOCK
Makes 1.5l/52fl oz/6 cups
2 tbsp olive oil

1 celery stick, peeled and chopped, or 1 small handful of celery leaves
1 thyme sprig
1 spring onion, chopped
1 handful of parsley stems, chopped
1 garlic clove
2 new potatoes, halved
6 black peppercorns
2 button mushrooms, halved
Briefly warm the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add all the remaining ingredients and
cook, partially covered, for 10 minutes. Add 3l/105fl oz/12 cups cold water and bring to the boil
over a high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours or until reduced by
half. Remove from the heat, pass the stock through a sieve, using a ladle to help you, then leave it to
cool for at least 1 hour. Your stock is then ready to use.
weeks.
Vinaigrette
FRENCH VINAIGRETTE
Makes 185ml/6fl oz/¾ cup
Preparation time 5 minutes
2 tsp Dijon mustard

2 tbsp red or white wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar
125ml/4fl oz/½ cup olive oil or rapeseed oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a small bowl or jug, whisk together the mustard, vinegar and 2 tablespoons water, then whisk in the
oil. You should have quite a thick, glossy liquid. Season with salt and pepper.
Use straightaway or cover and keep in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Sauce hollandaise
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
Makes 425ml/15fl oz/1¾ cups
Cooking time 25 minutes
2 tbsp white wine vinegar

2 large egg yolks, beaten
350g/12oz butter, melted
juice of ½ lemon
Put 6 tablespoons water in a small saucepan over a medium heat. Add the vinegar, season with salt
and pepper and simmer for 2 minutes until reduced by half and the liquid becomes syrupy. Transfer
the vinegar reduction to a heatproof bowl and rest it over a saucepan of gently simmering water,
making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water (this is called a bainmarie). Add the egg
yolks and beat the mixture continuously over a low heat until it turns white, thickens and the liquid
coats the back of a spoon. Don’t let the water boil or your sauce will turn into scrambled eggs!
Now add the melted butter to the vinegar reduction a little at a time, omitting any ‘milk solids’ that
form at the bottom of the pan, whisking continuously. When it starts to thicken, add 1 tablespoon
water, then continue adding the butter until it is all incorporated. The mixture should be smooth and
light – you may need to add a little more water to achieve this consistency. Season again with salt and
pepper and keep warm in the bainmarie until ready to serve. Just before serving, squeeze in a few
drops of lemon juice. Taste and add more juice if you like a stronger lemony flavour.
Mayonnaise au safran
SAFFRON MAYONNAISE
Makes 200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup
a good pinch of saffron threads

2 egg yolks
1 tbsp French mustard
150ml/5fl oz/scant cup sunflower or grapeseed oil
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
a squeeze of lemon juice (optional)
To create your essence of saffron, put the saffron and 2 tablespoons water in a small saucepan over a
low heat. Simmer for 4–5 minutes to allow the saffron to release its flavour and colour. When it is a
strong deep-orange colour, strain the liquid into a bowl and, using a whisk, beat the egg yolks and
mustard into it. Season with salt and pepper and a few drops of lemon, if liked, then drizzle in the oil,
a little at a time, stirring continuously. Add the garlic and then whisk in 2 tablespoons hot water to
help it bind. The mayonnaise should be glossy and luscious!
Keep in the fridge and serve cold.

Sauce vierge
SAUCE VIERGE
Makes 150ml/5fl oz/scant cup
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 shallot, chopped
1 tomato, deseeded and diced
juice of ½ lime
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
Put the oil in a small saucepan and briefly warm it over a low heat for about 30 seconds. Add the
shallot and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the tomato, lime juice and balsamic
vinegar. Just before serving, add the parsley and season with salt and pepper. Enjoy warm drizzled
over your dish.
Pâte à tarte de Grand-Mère
GRAND-MÈRE’S SWEET PASTRY
Baking was Grand-Mère Suzanne’s thing, and most of the time, she did it without measuring. She
knew whether something was right just by looking at it, and when it came to cakes and tarts, no one
could match her. Grand-Mère’s pastry is sweet, and is great for apple, pear and mixed-fruit tarts –
actually it’s great for all desserts in general.
Makes enough for a 28cm/11¼in tin
Preparation time 15 minutes, plus 30 minutes chilling
125g/4½oz unsalted butter, roughly diced and softened to room temperature

85g/3oz/ cup icing sugar, sifted, plus extra for dusting
1 egg
2 egg yolks
250g/9oz/2 cups plain flour, plus extra for kneading the dough
Put the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl and beat with a wooden spoon until nice and creamy.
Stir in the egg and egg yolks, then add the flour and mix everything together with your fingers until it
forms a lovely crumbly texture. Press the mixture together to form a ball. On a lightly-floured surface,
knead the pastry with the palm of your hand for 1–2 minutes, or until it forms a ball easily and is soft
to the touch. Watch out – don’t overwork the pastry or it will go back to the crumbly texture! Flatten it
slightly with the palm of your hand, wrap it in cling film and leave in the fridge for at least 30 minutes
before use – this helps it to relax – and, meanwhile, so can you!
Pâte sucrée
SWEET SHORT PASTRY
Preparation time 15 minutes, plus 2 hours chilling
175g/6oz butter, softened

a pinch of salt
1 tsp caster sugar
1 egg yolk
3 tbsp milk or water, at room temperature
250g/9oz/2 cups plain flour
Put the butter, salt, sugar, egg yolk and milk in a mixing bowl and mix together by hand. Add the flour
slowly, mixing until just combined. Be careful not to overwork it or it will become too elastic. When
the pastry is ready, either wrap it in a clean cotton tea towel or put it on a plate, covered with a clean
cotton tea towel, and leave in the fridge for 2 hours before using – this will relax the dough and make
it easier to use.
Pâte brisée
SAVOURY SHORT PASTRY
125g/4½oz butter, roughly diced and softened to room temperature

250g/9oz/2 cups plain flour, plus extra for kneading the dough
a pinch of salt
1 egg yolk
3 tbsp milk or water
Put the butter, flour and salt in a mixing bowl and mix together by hand until it is a crumbly, powdery
texture. Add the egg yolk and milk and continue working the pastry until the ingredients are combined
and the texture is smooth. On a lightly floured surface, knead the pastry for about 1–2 minutes until
silky smooth. When the pastry is ready, either wrap it in a clean cotton tea towel or put it on a plate,
covered with a clean cotton tea towel and leave in the fridge for 2 hours before using – this will relax
the dough and make it easier to use.
Pâte à choux
CHOUX PASTRY
Makes 30–40 profiteroles
Preparation time 15 minutes, plus 40 minutes resting and making the crème pâtissière
180g/6¼oz butter
5g/ oz/scant 1 tsp salt
scant 1 tbsp sugar
250g/9oz/2 cups plain flour
8 small eggs
a few drops of vanilla extract
Crème Pâtissière (see page 24) or extra-thick custard flavoured with chocolate, vanilla or crushed hazelnuts, if liked, for filling
Put the butter, salt, sugar and 500ml/17fl oz/2 cups water in a large saucepan and bring to the boil.
Remove from the heat, add the flour and mix to combine using a whisk. Return to a medium heat and
stir gently with a wooden spoon until the mixture starts to dry and comes off the spoon easily and
sweats slightly. Remove again from the heat and add the eggs one by one, whisking gently, until they
are totally absorbed by the paste. You should have a lovely yellow, silky mixture. Stir in the vanilla
extract and set the pastry aside to rest for 35–40 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 185°C/365°F/gas 4–5 and line a baking tray with baking parchment. Using a
piping bag, pipe the pastry onto the baking tray to make 2.5cm/1in-thick balls. Bake for 20 minutes in
the preheated oven, then turn the oven off and leave the profiteroles inside for another 10 minutes to
dry them. They should be very light. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack to cool
completely.
To fill the profiteroles, cut open from the bottom to the top, using a sharp knife, and pipe in the filling
of your choice, such as crème pâtissière or extra-thick custard flavoured with chocolate, vanilla or
crushed hazelnuts.
Crème anglaise
VANILLA CUSTARD
Makes 1.4l/48fl oz/scant 6 cups
1l/35fl oz/4 cups full fat milk

1 vanilla pod, halved lengthways
8 egg yolks
200g/7oz/heaped ¾ cup caster sugar
Put the milk in a medium saucepan over a low heat. Scrape the vanilla seeds into the milk, using a
knife. Whisk, then throw in the vanilla pod as well. Simmer for at least 15 minutes to get the
maximum flavour out of the seeds. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a large
bowl.
Add the egg-yolk mixture to the milk and cook over a medium heat for 5–8 minutes, stirring
continuously (otherwise you will get scrambled eggs!) until it starts to thicken. You will be able to
tell when it’s ready if when you run 2 fingers down the back of the spoon the two lines don’t
immediately join. If the custard does start to scramble, don’t panic – you can rescue it by pouring the
mixture into a food processor, removing the vanilla pod, and blending it until it regains a smooth,
thick texture. Strain immediately into a clean bowl and mix for a few minutes to cool the mixture
down, then put it in the fridge to chill.
Crème pâtissière
CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE
Makes 750ml/26fl oz/3 cups
Cooking time 10–15 minutes
500ml/17fl oz/2 cups full fat milk

1 vanilla pod, halved lengthways
5 egg yolks
100g/3½oz/scant ½ cup caster sugar
50g/1¾oz/heaped ¼ cup cornflour
small knob of butter
Put the milk in a medium saucepan over a low heat. Scrape the vanilla seeds into t he milk, using a
knife. Whisk, then throw in the vanilla pod as well. Heat the milk until it is almost simmering, remove
from the heat and leave to infuse for about 20 minutes. Remove the vanilla pod from the milk and
clean and dry in kitchen towel – you can use it again.
Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks together with the sugar in a separate bowl until the mixture is light,
thick and creamy and the sugar has dissolved. Gradually add the cornflour, a spoonful at a time,
whisking well after each addition to avoid lumps.
Slowly pour half of the infused milk into the egg mixture, beating the mixture as you pour, then
transfer the mixture back into the saucepan with the remaining milk. Place over a medium-low heat
and stir continuously and quickly for about 10 minutes, or until the mixture begins to thicken. Remove
from the heat and continue to stir until the mixture has cooled down and is lovely and smooth, thick
and slightly trembling.
Pour into a container and rub a small knob of butter over – just enough to cover the top to avoid the
surface drying out and forming a crust. Set aside until required. This is ideal for the Summer Fruit
Tart on page 185.
Pâte à crêpes
BASIC CRÊPES
Makes 12–15 crêpes
125g/4½oz/1 cup plain flour

2 tbsp caster sugar
a pinch of salt
2 eggs
300ml/10½fl oz/scant 1¼ cups milk (full fat or semi-skimmed)
30g/1oz butter, melted, plus extra for frying, if needed
lemon juice and caster sugar, to serve
Put the flour, sugar, vanilla extract, salt, eggs and 100ml/3½floz/scant ½ cup of the milk in a bowl.
Add the butter and whisk until smooth. Alternatively, if it’s easier for you, just pop everything into a
blender. Blend for a few minutes, then slowly add the remaining milk and blend a little more. The
important thing is to make sure that there are no lumps and the consistency is quite runny so that your
crêpes will be thin and light. When you do it gradually like this, there is no need to rest the batter.
Heat a 15–18cm/6–7in non-stick pancake or frying pan over a medium-high heat. If you use a non-
stick pan, you won’t have to add butter to the pan as there is some already in the batter, though it can
make the flipping easier if you do. If you’re not using a non-stick pan, add a little butter to the pan
first to keep the pancake from sticking.
Using a ladle, pour enough batter into the pan to cover the base thinly. Swirl the pan around to help
spread the batter, if necessary, then cook for 1–1½ minutes. Now comes the fun part – try to flip it –
or you can use a spatula. Cook for a further 1–2 minutes on the other side.
Remove the pancake from the pan and repeat with the remaining batter, adding more butter to the pan
if necessary.
Sprinkle the pancakes with lemon juice and caster sugar, or any other topping you like such as jam,
marmalade or ice cream. Enjoy!
Les Entrées
STARTERS
Starters are an important part of a meal in France, but they differ hugely from region to region.
The recipes I’ve chosen here are specialities from all over the country. There is Duck Rillettes
from the Dordogne, Fish Soup with Saffron Mayonnaise from the coastal regions or a selection
of Tapenade and Aubergine Caviar from Provence, perhaps served with some cheese,
charcuterie and crusty bread. With a glass of wine and good company, these entrées are a
tantalizing treat to take you on to your dinner.
Soupe de poireaux et pommes de terre aux champignons sauvages
LEEK & POTATO SOUP WITH WILD MUSHROOMS
Soothing, velvety and rich, leek and potato soup is the ultimate comforting winter soup. If you want it
to be very green, use small leeks and make sure you use the green part – lots of people throw this
away thinking it is no good, but that is actually where the goodness and colour lie. To get rid of the
grit and soil caught between layers, cut the leek into quarters lengthways from just above the root to
the top – don’t cut through the root. Fan out the layers and swirl them around in a bowl of water.
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus making the stock
45g/1½oz butter
2 medium or 5 small leeks, diced and rinsed, keeping the white and green parts separate
2 large potatoes, peeled and diced
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 thyme sprig
1 shallot, peeled and chopped
500ml/17fl oz/2 cups Vegetable Stock (see page 19) or Chicken Stock (see page 18)
4 tbsp crème fraîche, plus extra to serve
85g/3oz wild or button mushrooms, sliced
1 tbsp chopped chives
toasted baguette or farmhouse bread, to serve
Melt 30g/1oz of the butter gently in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Add the white
part of the leeks and the potatoes, garlic, thyme and shallot and cook, partially covered, for 4–5
minutes. Stir occasionally, taking care not to let them colour. Add the stock and 250ml/9fl oz/1 cup
water and season with salt. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15–20
minutes or until the potatoes are soft. Remove the thyme sprig.
Shortly before the potatoes have finished cooking, bring a medium saucepan of salted water to the
boil. Add the green part of the leeks to the boiling water and blanch for 3–4 minutes, then drain, pour
ice-cold water over them to seal in the colour and drain again. For maximum colour and a strong,
earthy flavour, blanch the leeks just before blending with the potatoes. Transfer the blanched green
leeks and the potato and leek mixture to a blender, season with salt and pepper and blend until very
smooth, then add the crème fraîche. You may have to do this in batches, depending on the size of your
blender. Pour the soup into a clean saucepan (straining it through a sieve if you want it really smooth)
and keep warm over a low heat while you prepare the mushrooms.
Warm the remaining butter in a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. When it is foaming, add the
mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes or until golden
brown. Remove from the heat and throw in the chives.
Put a spoonful of mushrooms in each bowl, pour the leek soup over them and top with a swirl of
crème fraîche. Serve with bread. Creamy, simple and satisfying.
Soupe d’ail sauvage
WILD GARLIC SOUP
Wild garlic has a short season – about six weeks at the most – starting in early spring. You will find it
in woodlands and alongside streams or canals, but if you can’t go looking for it yourself, try your
local farmers’ markets. The smell is strong and distinctly garlicky, and the leaves look rather like
spinach, only paler, and it is this combination that makes this a wonderfully tasty soup. The white
flowers are also great in salads. When wild garlic is not in season, you can make this soup using
spinach instead.
30g/1oz butter
1 small onion, chopped
1 large potato, peeled and chopped
875ml/30fl oz/3½ cups Vegetable Stock (see page 19) or Chicken Stock (see page 18)
600g/1lb 5oz wild garlic leaves
4 tbsp crème fraîche, or to taste, plus extra to serve
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over a low heat. Add the onion and cook for 4–5 minutes,
stirring occasionally, until soft and pale without colour. Add the potato, season with salt and cook for
3–4 minutes, stirring so it does not stick to the bottom of the pan.
Add the stock, bring to the boil over a high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10
minutes until the potato is soft. Add the wild garlic leaves and cook for another 5 minutes. You want
to keep the colour, so don’t overcook it.
Transfer the soup to a blender and blend until smooth. You may have to do this in batches, depending
on the size of your blender. Add the crème frâiche, according to your taste, and season with salt and
pepper. Serve warm, topped with an extra swirl of crème frâiche.
Soupe de petits pois aux lardons
PEA & PANCETTA SOUP
During the spring months, peas are one of my favourite vegetables. They seem underused in general,
which is a pity because when cooked well they are so sweet and crunchy. Pea shoots add more depth
of colour and flavour to this soup. They can be hard to find, although you can usually find them at
farmers’ markets or good supermarkets – it will definitely be worth your trouble. The freshness of
peas combined with the rich saltiness of pancetta makes this a soup with style and substance.
30g/1oz butter
1 small leek, halved lengthways, rinsed and sliced
1 small potato, peeled and finely sliced
1–1.2l/35–40fl oz/4–5 cups Chicken Stock (see page 18) or Vegetable Stock (see page 19)
550g/1lb 4oz/3½ cups fresh or frozen peas
55g/2oz pea shoots (optional), plus extra to serve
4 tbsp double cream, plus extra to serve
85g/3oz pancetta, cut into strips
farmhouse bread, to serve
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over a low heat. Add the leek and potato and cook, stirring
occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and bring to the boil over a high heat, adjusting the
amount of stock you add according to whether you like a thicker or thinner soup. Reduce the heat to
low again and simmer for 10–12 minutes or until the potato is soft. Turn the heat down to its lowest
setting and add the peas and pea shoots, if using. Simmer gently for 5 minutes, uncovered.
Transfer the mixture to a blender, season with salt and pepper and blend to the desired texture, adding
the cream at the end. You may have to do this in batches depending on the size of your blender. Pour
the soup into a clean saucepan (straining it through a sieve if you want it really smooth) and keep
warm over a low heat while you prepare the pancetta.
Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil. Add the pancetta, return to the boil and then remove from
the heat. This will remove excess fat and salt. Drain and pat dry on kitchen towel. Heat a non-stick
frying pan over a medium heat, add the pancetta and fry for 4–5 minutes, tossing until crispy.
Put a spoonful of pancetta in each bowl and pour the soup over it. Add a swirl of cream and a sprig of
pea shoots, if using, and serve with bread – a lovely spring soup.
Soupe de cresson de fontaine et pommes de terre, oeuf de caille sur croûtons
WATERCRESS & POTATO SOUP WITH QUAIL EGG CROÛTONS
During spring and summer, wild watercress can be found in abundance alongside streams and rivers.
Young watercress leaves are softer and less bitter, so try to get these if you can. This soup has a deep,
herb-green colour and a delicate, grassy flavour, and it is full of goodness. The key to keeping the
colour is to cook it very gently and for a short time. The finished result should be smooth in texture,
rich in colour and peppery in taste. For an extra special touch, serve with a poached quail egg on a
slice of toasted baguette.
30g/1oz butter
2 shallots, chopped
1 large leek, sliced and rinsed
350g/12oz potatoes, peeled and diced
300g/10½oz watercress, stalks removed
4 tbsp double cream, plus extra to serve
1 baguette
1 tsp vinegar
4 quail eggs
sea salt and ground white pepper
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over a low heat. Add the shallots and leek and cook, stirring
occasionally, for 3–4 minutes, then add the potatoes and enough boiling water to cover generously,
about 750ml/26fl oz/3 cups. Simmer for 10–12 minutes or until the potatoes are soft. Remove from
the heat, add the watercress, cover and set aside for 4–5 minutes.
Transfer the mixture to a blender, season with salt and pepper and blend until smooth, adding the
cream at the end. Don’t be shy with the seasoning, as watercress can take quite a lot. If you like your
soup with a finer texture, strain it through a sieve into a clean saucepan and warm through – very
gently or the chlorophyll will break down and the soup will lose its fabulous, vibrant colour.
Toast 4 slices of baguette. Bring a small saucepan of water to a gentle simmer, then add the vinegar.
Carefully break the quail eggs, one at a time, into the water and poach for 1–2 minutes – the egg yolks
should remain soft. Remove the eggs using a slotted spoon and rest the spoon on kitchen paper.
Carefully pat dry the eggs. Put a warm, toasted bread slice in each bowl, top each with a poached egg
and pierce the eggs so the yolk runs down into the soup bowl. Pour the soup into the bowl around the
baguette slice, add a swirl of cream and serve with the remaining baguette.
Soupe de poisson avec mayonnaise au safran
FISH SOUP WITH SAFFRON MAYONNAISE
Like the sea itself, this soup is powerful and aromatic. When I eat it, it makes me think of standing on
a high rock, breathing in the salty sea air. Rockfish are found in brasseries in coastal villages and
cities from Marseille to Bordeaux to Brest. Fish soups differ according not only to the variety of fish
used but also where they are caught – fish from warm water will have a different flavour from fish
from cold water, for example. In France, the type of fish used will be typical to the area and most
likely true to a recipe that has been passed down from generation to generation or from chef to chef.
Either way, everyone will claim that theirs is best!
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus making the mayonnaise
Cooking time 1 hour 10 minutes
4 tbsp olive oil

4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 fennel bulb, chopped
2 onions, sliced
4 small soft shell crabs (optional)
800g/1lb 12oz small rockfish, such as monkfish and red or grey mullet, scaled, gutted and gills removed (you can ask your fishmonger to
do this)
4 tbsp aniseed liqueur, such as Pastis or Pernod
200g/7oz tomatoes, chopped
55g/2oz/scant ¼ cup tomato purée
1 bay leaf
a pinch of saffron powder
a pinch of cayenne pepper
croûtons, to serve
½ recipe quantity Saffron Mayonnaise (see page 21), to serve
Warm the oil in a large, deep frying pan or cast iron pan over a medium heat. Add the garlic, fennel
and onions and cook, stirring often to avoid discolouring, for 3–5 minutes until soft.
Add the crabs, if using, and cook for 4–5 minutes until the shells become red. Add the rockfish and
cook over a medium-high heat for a further 5 minutes, stirring to make sure it doesn’t stick to the
bottom. Add the Pastis, tomatoes, tomato purée, bay leaf, saffron, cayenne pepper and 2l/70fl oz/8
cups water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook for 50 minutes. After that time,
the flesh should have come away from the fish bones. Remove and discard the bones.
Transfer the soup to a blender and blend until smooth. It will be a little thick, but that is exactly how
you want it. Strain it through a sieve, if desired, into a clean saucepan, reheat and season with salt and
pepper.
Serve with croûtons and saffron mayonnaise.

Soupe à l’oignon gratinée au comté
ONION SOUP WITH COMTÉ CHEESE
This soup is at the heart of French cooking. It is made in homes and brasseries right across France
and loved by all. You will need some really good onions, like the white ones from Provence or your
local farmer’s supply. Being from Franche-Comté, I think this dish tastes best when the croûtons are
made with the famous Comté cheese. The combination of rich, golden cheese melting into the tangy,
glistening onions makes it second to none. A great one to keep on the stove to share with a friend after
a night out.
85g/3oz butter
6 onions, sliced
2 tbsp plain flour
4 tbsp red wine
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup white wine
1 tsp sugar (optional)
4 thick slices baguette
2 tbsp olive oil
150g/5½oz Comté cheese, grated
Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a low heat. Add the onions, season with salt and pepper and
cook, partially covered, for 10 minutes or until they are a golden colour. Stir often so they don’t burn.
Sprinkle with the flour and cook for a further 10 minutes until the onions start to brown.
In a heatproof jug, mix together the wines and 1.75l/60fl oz/7 cups boiling water, then slowly pour the
mixture over the onions, stirring continuously to prevent lumps. Bring to the boil over a high heat,
skimming away any impurities from the surface, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15–20
minutes. Taste the soup and adjust the salt and pepper. If it seems too sour, add a little sugar to taste.
Meanwhile, to make the cheesy croûtons, preheat the grill to high. Put the baguette slices on a baking
tray, drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with the grated cheese. Grill for 4–5 minutes or until the
cheese is melted and golden brown, being careful not to burn the edges of the baguette.
Divide the soup into bowls, pop the croûtons on top and enjoy. If it is less than heavenly, I want to
know why!
CHEF’S TIP: The traditional way to make this soup is with water, as I’ve done here, however, if
you want a richer soup you can replace the water with either vegetable or chicken stock. You
could also serve it with garlic croûtons, if liked. Instead of melting cheese on the baguette, drizzle
the slices with olive oil, lightly toast them under the grill and then rub with garlic cloves that
you’ve cut in half to release maximum flavour.
Les Pains
Breads
For me, bread has always been significant not only because I love it but also because it goes so well
with so many other foods, such as cheese, pâté, charcuterie, hot and cold meats and much more.
Bread is close to a religion in France. All over the country bakeries (boulangeries) take turns so
that there is always one open every day of the week. On Saturdays and Sundays they are open all day.
The best-known French bread of all, the classic baguette (meaning ‘stick’ in French) is the only bread
to be sold at a fixed price across France because the government considers it essential to life! New
batches appear on shelves all day long because it should always be eaten fresh, and can go chewy
very quickly. You often see people riding bikes or on trains with a baguette under their arm.
The breaking of bread is a great gesture that has no equal around the table, one that creates a sense
of sharing and friendship, whether it’s a simple baguette or boule (round-shaped, generally white
bread, available in different sizes and types of flours), a pain de campagne (a rustic loaf with a thick
crust and one of the most popular farmhouse breads) or more exotic types such as pain aux noix
(bread made with nuts), pain aux raisins (bread made with raisins) or fougasse (a focaccia- type
bread, very popular in the South of France.)
Most traditional versions of pain de campagne are made with a mixture of white, wholemeal
and/or rye flour, water, leavening and salt. Cut in diagonals and served with charcuterie and gherkins,
there’s nothing better. Pain aux noix is delicious with foie gras and both pain aux noix and pain aux
raisins go extremely well with cheese. Fougasse is often made with bacon (aux lardons), onions
(aux oignons), herbs (aux herbes), olives (aux olives) or anchovies (aux anchois). You probably
wouldn’t set out to buy these breads, but when you see them on display, you can’t resist them! Before
you know it you have bought the cheese to go with them, and maybe some wine too, and you have a
perfect impromptu meal!
In France, it seems that everyone has their own favourite baker. In small villages and in towns
like mine the boulangerie is always a rendez-vous for locals where they can chat about anything and
everything and usually, by the time they’ve finished, they realize they’ve finished the baguette too, so
they have to go back to buy another one!
As a child, I often used to do the shopping. When I was very young and not that tall, I could not
reach the counter in some shops, so I would just hand over the note Maman had written for me and be
given whatever food we were having that day for lunch or dinner. My last shop was always the baker,
where I’d pick up one or two baguettes and one ‘long bread’ (a longer version of the baguette).
Another popular baguette variation is the ficelle (French for ‘string’ because it is thin), which is
generally used for quick snacks. As children we used to love to put a bar of dark chocolate in our
ficelle for our quatre heures – our after-school snack. We also enjoyed pain de mie, a soft semi-
sweet loaf with a thin crust, mainly used for sandwiches; pain au lait,a sweet roll that is very moist
and easy to eat because it has no crust, and pain de seigle, made from two-thirds rye flour, one-third
wheat flour – a tasty alternative to baguette, and great with cheese or charcuterie.
On the way home from shopping trips, I’d start eating one of the baguettes, sometimes devouring
more than half. It was still warm and tasted so good that I simply could not resist it. The smell used to
tempt me so much, just as it did when I entered the bakery right after bread had been baked, or
croissants and pains au chocolat had just come out of the oven. It is those moments I cannot forget
and which I love to experience again when I go back home. It’s wonderful to hold the bread to your
ear and slowly crush it so that it crackles at the same time that it releases its warm, just-baked aroma!
How could I ever not eat bread?
But real bread is in danger. Mass-produced bread is in demand. Quickly made with fast-growing
crops, such bread is often too heavy, very poor in natural nutrients and filled with yeast substitutes.
Simple, good, healthy bread, made naturally, is what we should be eating. Long live the traditional
bakers, masters of their trade, passionate about their art, working all night to ensure that their faithful
clients remain the same and spread the word.
I have always considered the art of baking, along with the other culinary arts, to be a very noble
profession, where you create wonderful food with your own hands. In this book, you will find recipes
where bread is central and other ingredients complement it, not the other way around. There are the
delicious Croque Monsieur and Croque Madame, made from day-old bread, toasted farmhouse bread
with rillettes or croûtons in onion soup, and many more. Always buy good bread to serve with your
meals and don’t compromise on ingredients. Find a good baker and freeze the loaves so you can
always enjoy tasty bread. Or, if you make your own, use a reputable flour, organic if possible (or,
even better, stone-ground), and buy it high-quality, not bleached. Then, using good yeast, you will get
a great result that is much healthier for your family.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF BREAD
Humans have been making bread for at least 8,000 years, but it wasn’t always good to eat. Early,
unleavened versions were cooked on a slate stone, which made the bread so tough that you could lose
your teeth eating it! A 4,000-year-old sample on display at London’s British Museum is proof of how
far the craft of bread-baking has come.
Legend has it that we owe our modern-day bread to a young Egyptian who once forgot to cook his
dough. After a while, it began to ferment and the yeast cultures that are naturally found in flour
became active. When he eventually did cook it, the dough rose, becoming the first leavened bread.
Today, artisan bakers in France often produce their own yeast for leavened bread by preparing a
‘growth culture’, which they constantly refresh, so it provides leavening for years. It gives the bread a
special flavour and texture. This pain au levain (traditionally leavened bread) is generally bought as
a massive boule (ball), cut into long slices and served with butter.
The Egyptians were expert wheat growers, and sold their excess crop to the Greeks, who went on
to develop the bread-making technique further. The Romans then learned from them. They created a
school for bakers, and by the year 100bc there were said to be 258 bakeries in Rome. It is believed
that the Emperor Cassius brought the first bread to Britain. Rotary millstones and watermills were
built soon afterwards to enable locals to produce their own flour and bread. But when the Romans
left Britain, so did the baking knowledge ... Until the Normans arrived and revived the yeasted loaf.
Now, as you can see, we have been making bread in Britain for a long time and it hasn’t always
been cheap or, I should say, good value. In the 19th century, the tax on imported wheat was so high
that a single loaf cost a person’s entire wages and the people revolted. The tax was abolished in
1846.
The 20th century saw the start of the mass production of bread. More bread was made faster, but
unfortunately the process compromised both its quality and nutritional content. The domestic bread-
making machine arrived at the end of the century, making it easier for home cooks to bake their own
bread – and with very good results, too. Once upon a time, the wealthier you were, the whiter your
bread. Today, the emphasis is on wholemeal grains, and the browner breads are the healthier choice.
pain de campagne rond, pain de campagne long, baguette paysanne, pain paysan, fougasse, fougasse aux céréales, pain
de Meule
baguette artisanale, ficelle, ficelle aux céréales, pain artisanal, pain de campagne aux noix, pain de mie
Tapenade
TAPENADE
The word tapenade comes from the Provençal word ‘tapeno’, meaning capers, which are the
traditional base for this tantalizing combination. You can make it in many different ways according to
your taste, and some recipes from Provence use a larger proportion of capers to olives, but the one I
like is made with black olives (from the South of France, if possible) and watercress leaves. It is a
beautiful deep purple colour and full of flavour and complexity. It tastes great with crudités, on
toasted bread with fresh tomatoes, or even served alongside roast lamb or chicken.
175g/6oz/1½ cups small pitted black olives

1 tinned anchovy fillet (optional)
125ml/4fl oz/½ cup olive oil
1 garlic clove
1 handful of watercress leaves, stalks discarded
1 tbsp capers, rinsed
Put all the ingredients in a food processor and process for 3–4 minutes until the mixture forms a paste
of the desired consistency.
Transfer to a small jar (the one the olives came in would be ideal), cover with a lid and keep in the
fridge. The tapenade will keep for up to 2 weeks and will be better than anything you could buy in the
shops!
VARIATION: GREEN OLIVE TAPENADE

If you want to try a variation, replace the black olives with green ones and replace the watercress
with 1 handful of basil leaves.
Anchoïade
ANCHOÏADE
200g/7oz salted anchovy fillets

2 garlic cloves
1 tsp white wine vinegar
150ml/5fl oz/scant cup olive oil
freshly ground black pepper
Rinse the anchovy fillets well under cold running water, then pat dry using a clean tea towel.
Put the anchovy fillets, garlic and vinegar in a mortar or small food processor and season with
pepper. Work everything together with the pestle or by processing until the mixture forms a paste.
Slowly add the oil while continuing to mix. You should end up with a smooth, silky texture.
Transfer the anchoïade to a small jar, cover with a lid and keep in the fridge. It will keep for up to 2
weeks.
Tomates séchées au four
OVEN-DRIED TOMATOES
Cooking time 3 hours
90ml/3fl oz/ cup olive oil, plus extra as needed

6 garlic cloves, unpeeled and crushed with the flat edge of a knife or your hand
500g/1lb 2oz cherry tomatoes
2 tsp icing sugar
a few thyme or rosemary sprigs
Preheat the oven to 110°C/225°F/gas ½. Put the oil and garlic in a small baking dish and leave to
infuse in the oven for 30 minutes, then remove the garlic. This will give you a lovely scented oil in
which to roast your tomatoes. (Don’t waste the garlic: once you’ve got the tomatoes in the oven toast
some crusty bread, drizzle it with olive oil and eat it with the garlic – which you can push out from its
skin – it’s incredible!)
Cut the tomatoes in half, across the middle rather than from top to bottom (they somehow look more
appealing cut this way). Squeeze gently to remove some of the seeds and juice so they will dry more
easily, then put them skin-side down in the baking dish. Put the icing sugar in a fine sieve and sprinkle
it over the tomatoes, then season with salt and pepper. Toss the thyme sprigs over them and leave in
the oven to dry for 2½ hours. Serve warm or leave to cool and then remove the thyme sprigs, put the
tomatoes in a jar and cover them with extra olive oil. They will keep in the fridge for 2–3 weeks.
Caviar d’aubergine
AUBERGINE CAVIAR
Cooking time 1 hour
3 aubergines, halved lengthways

90ml/3fl oz/ cup olive oil, plus extra as needed
6 thyme or rosemary sprigs
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Using a sharp knife, score the flesh of the aubergines, making
a crisscross pattern. Put them on a baking tray, flesh-side up, drizzle with the oil and season with salt
and pepper. Put 1 garlic clove and 1 thyme sprig on each aubergine half, cover with foil and bake for
1 hour or until the aubergines are very soft and the flesh is easy to scoop out.
Remove from the oven and discard the thyme. Peel the garlic cloves and put them on a chopping
board. Scoop the flesh from the aubergines onto the chopping board and discard the skins. Chop
finely, mixing in the garlic, then season with salt and pepper and add a drop of oil, if liked.
Transfer the caviar to a jar, cover the surface with extra oil and cover with a lid. It will keep for up
to 1 week in the fridge.
Croque Monsieur au jambon et comté
CROQUE MONSIEUR WITH HAM & COMTÉ CHEESE
You find yourself in Paris for a weekend, the sun is shining and you manage to get a seat on a terrace
outside a brasserie on one of the wide boulevards. You are thinking you would like to watch the
world go by for an hour or two and soak up the atmosphere. Maybe you’ll have a snack … but what?
no trip to Paris would be complete without a Croque Monsieur. This is a twist on the traditional, call
it Croque Monsieur Galmiche if you will. It is the way we used to do it at home – our Sunday night
treat.
Preparation time 15 minutes, plus making the salad and vinaigrette
4 large eggs
400ml/14fl oz/scant 1 cups full-fat milk
1 long pain paysan (or a farmhouse loaf bread), cut diagonally into 8 thick slices
150g/5½oz butter
8 slices of ham
100g/3½oz aged Comté cheese or other mature hard cheese, grated
lamb’s lettuce salad tossed with French Vinaigrette (see page 20), to serve
Put the eggs and milk in a bowl, season with salt and pepper and whisk well, then transfer to a
shallow dish. Soak each slice of bread in the egg mixture, turning three or four times so that it really
takes in the liquid.
Melt half the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat. When foaming, add the bread and cook
for 2 minutes until golden brown and a little crispy, then turn the bread over and add the rest of the
butter. Cook on the other side for 2 minutes. If you are using a small frying pan, cook in batches using
a quarter of the butter for each batch.
Put 1 slice of ham and some of the grated cheese on each slice of bread, and when the cheese starts to
melt add another slice of bread on top of the cheese and flick the croque monsieur over once more
and cook for up to 1 minute until heated through. Serve hot with lamb’s lettuce salad. Perfect!
Croque Madame
CROQUE MADAME
A creamier, richer alternative for Madame, with the simple addition of a fried egg and a couple
spoonfuls of Béchamel sauce. Béchamel sauce owes its name to the Marquis of Béchamel, who felt it
was an improvement on velouté (which is made in a similar way but with white stock rather than
milk), although it was originally made by simply adding large quantities of cream.
Preparation time 5 minutes, plus making the Croque Monsieur and 20 minutes chilling
40g/1½oz butter, softened

40g/1½oz/ cup plain flour
400ml/14fl oz/scant 1 cups milk
a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
1 tbsp sunflower oil
4 eggs
1 recipe quantity Croque Monsieur with Ham & Comté Cheese (see page 42)
In a small bowl, mix the butter and flour together until the mixture forms a smooth paste, cover with
cling film and chill for 20 minutes.
Put the milk and nutmeg in a saucepan and season with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then remove
from the heat and set aside to infuse and cool for about 15 minutes.
Gently reheat the milk over a medium-low heat and add the butter and flour paste, little by little, until
the milk thickens to a sauce. Stir continuously to make sure you get a lovely smooth texture without
any lumps. This is known as a béchamel sauce.
Preheat the grill to medium-high. Meanwhile, make your Croque Monsieur according to the recipe
instructions.
To fry the eggs, heat a large frying pan over a medium heat, then add the sunflower oil. When it starts
to smoke, break the eggs into the pan, without bursting the yolks, and fry until the whites are cooked
and the edges crispy and golden.
Put 1 egg on top of each Croque Monsieur and pour a few spoonfuls of the béchamel sauce over each
one. Grill for 3–4 minutes or until light golden.
Poireaux à la vinaigrette
LEEKS WITH VINAIGRETTE
Leeks make a great alternative to asparagus when it is out of season. These tasty vegetables belong to
the same family as onions and garlic but have a milder flavour, which works really well in this dish
with vinaigrette. If you’re using bigger, older leeks, cut the coarse, green part away and use only the
white part. But if you’ve opted for younger, baby leeks, you can use the whole vegetable.
Preparation time 10 minutes, plus making the vinaigrette
1 tsp vinegar
2 eggs, at room temperature
4 leeks or 12 baby leeks
1 small handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 recipe quantity French Vinaigrette (see page 20)
sea salt
Fill a small saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Add the vinegar to the water, as this will make
the eggs easier to shell after cooking. Place the eggs in a ladle, then slowly and carefully slide the
eggs into the water so that you don’t break the shells. Cook for 8–9 minutes, drain and place the eggs
under running cold water. When cool enough to handle, shell the eggs, roughly chop and set aside.
Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the leeks and cook over a medium heat for
15 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge the leeks directly into cold water for a few seconds to stop
the cooking process and keep the bright colour. Don’t leave them in the water for too long, because
you want them still to be warm. Pat the leeks dry on a clean tea towel, then arrange on a flat serving
dish.
Mix the chopped eggs and parsley into the vinaigrette, pour the mixture over the leeks and serve.
Colourful, simple and delicious.
CHEF’S TIP: When hard- or soft-boiling eggs, it is best to use the eggs at room temperature and
not directly from the fridge, when the shells are more likely to crack as you add them to the
boiling water.
Asperges à la vinaigrette au persil
ASPARAGUS WITH PARSLEY VINAIGRETTE
Late spring is the season of asparagus, both green and white; the best is whatever you can buy locally.
Asparagus has quite a short season of seven or eight weeks, so make the most of this luxurious
vegetable when it’s available. I like to keep the flavours simple, such as in this dish, so you can
really appreciate its freshness! The question with asparagus is always where to cut it; the way you
can tell is by holding it from both ends and bending it – the spear will naturally snap between your
fingers at just the right place.
500g/1lb 2oz asparagus, woody ends discarded, peeled if tough

1 tbsp sea salt
PARSLEY VINAIGRETTE
2 tbsp white wine vinegar, plus extra to hard-boil the egg
1 egg, at room temperature
2 tsp Dijon mustard
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup sunflower or olive oil
1 small handful of parsley, chopped
Fill a small saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Add a teaspoon of vinegar to the water, as this
will make the egg easier to shell after cooking. Place the egg in a ladle, then slowly and carefully
slide the egg into the water so that you don’t break the shell. Cook for 8–9 minutes, drain and place
the egg under running cold water. When cool enough to handle, shell the egg, chop roughly and set
aside.
Bring a medium saucepan of water to the boil and add the salt. Tie up the asparagus loosely with
string, tips all facing the same way, and put the bundle in the pan. Reduce the heat to low and cook for
6–10 minutes, depending on the size of the asparagus. The spears should be cooked through but still
retain some bite.
Meanwhile, prepare a bowl of ice-cold water and set aside and make the parsley vinaigrette. Put the
mustard and vinegar in a bowl, season with salt and pepper and mix well. Slowly whisk or beat in the
oil, then stir in the chopped egg and parsley.
When the asparagus is cooked, remove the bundle from the pan and plunge it into the ice-cold water.
This helps to keep the chlorophyll (and therefore the goodness and colour) locked in.
Drain the asparagus, untie and arrange it on a flat dish. Pour the vinaigrette over and serve. This is a
great dish to share with a friend, using nothing but your fingers – at least that is how we do it in
France!
Oeuf poché aux asperges et sauce hollandaise
POACHED EGG WITH ASPARAGUS & HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
Asparagus, poached egg and hollandaise sauce – the perfect ménage à trois! Of course, you can often
get hold of asparagus throughout the year, but it is always better when in season. Green works better
than white for this dish, and rich, glossy, home-made hollandaise makes more difference than I can
say.
Preparation time 10 minutes, plus making the sauce
1kg/2lb 4oz small to medium green asparagus spears, woody ends discarded, peeled if tough
4 tbsp white wine vinegar
4 large eggs
1 recipe quantity Hollandaise Sauce (see page 20)
Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil. Tie up the asparagus loosely with string, tips all facing
the same way, and put the bundle in the pan. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 6–10 minutes,
depending on the size of your asparagus. The spears should be cooked through but still retain some
bite.
Meanwhile, prepare a bowl of ice-cold water and set aside. Bring another small saucepan of water to
the boil, add the vinegar and bring it down to a simmer. Break 2 of the eggs into the pan (or just do
one at a time if you still don’t feel confident about poaching eggs). Swirl the water a little and keep
simmering for 4 minutes or until the white surrounds the yolk in a nice oval shape (you can manipulate
it, using a spoon). Alternatively, if you have an egg poacher, you can just use that.
When the asparagus is cooked, remove the bundle from the pan and plunge it into the ice-cold water.
This helps to keep the chlorophyll (and therefore the goodness and colour) locked in.
Untie the asparagus and divide it onto four plates. Top each portion with a poached egg, then with a
dollop of the hollandaise sauce, so it just runs down the side of the egg on to the asparagus. Season
with salt and pepper and serve immediately. I promise you, it’s wonderful!
Crabe tiède avec mayonnaise à l’estragon
WARM CRAB WITH TARRAGON MAYONNAISE
100g/3½oz cooked crab meat

4 tbsp mayonnaise
1 small handful of tarragon, chopped
3–4 drops of chilli sauce
seasonal mixed leaves, to serve
1 avocado, peeled, pitted and sliced, to serve
1 recipe quantity French Vinaigrette (see page 20) made with coarse mustard instead of Dijon mustard.
Put the crab meat in a heatproof bowl and rest it over a saucepan of gently simmering water, making
sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Heat over a low heat for 2–3 minutes, to warm
the crab meat through, then remove from the heat and mix in the mayonnaise, tarragon and chilli sauce
and season with salt and pepper.
Serve warm with mixed leaves and sliced avocado, drizzled with the vinaigrette.
Filet de maquereau au citron vert
MACKEREL WITH LIME (PICTURED)
Preparation time 30 minutes, plus 1 hour marinating
2 whole mackerel, about 400g/14oz each, filleted

4 tbsp olive oil
1 kaffir lime leaf, cut into fine strips
a pinch of sea salt
a pinch of freshly ground black pepper
1 lime, halved
Score the filleted mackerel slightly so that the marinade can really penetrate the flesh and put them in
a small dish. Add all the remaining ingredients except for the lime, cover with cling film and leave to
marinate for 1 hour in the fridge.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Heat a small frying pan over a medium-high heat. Put the fish,
skin-side down, on the pan and fry for 2 minutes to give it a nice colour, then transfer it to a baking
tray and bake for 5 minutes.
Squeeze the lime over the mackerel and serve.

Terrine de foie de volaille
CHICKEN LIVER TERRINE
You can find this popular traditional dish on tables in almost every region of France, and in quite a
few supermarkets, too – but it is never quite the same as home-made. There are so many recipes for
what is known simply as ‘pâté’ – but you need the right balance of liver and fat to make it both
smooth and tasty, and some recipes have a very high percentage of fat, which isn’t necessary or good
for you. Pâté is complemented simply and beautifully by gherkins, pickled vegetables and farmhouse
bread, making it a great dish for outdoor family gatherings.
Preparation time 30 minutes, plus overnight soaking, 3 hours cooling and 2 days resting
500g/1lb 2oz chicken livers, trimmed by your butcher, all green parts removed
1l/35fl oz/4 cups milk
1 tbsp sea salt
4 tbsp crème fraîche
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 tbsp Cognac
4 eggs
4 egg yolks
75g/2½oz/scant cup cornflour
150g/5½oz butter
gherkins, to serve
pickled vegetables, to serve
warm toasted bread or farmhouse bread, to serve
Put the livers in a large bowl and cover with 250ml/9fl oz/1 cup of the milk and 250ml/9fl oz/1 cup
water. Sprinkle with the salt and leave to marinate in the fridge overnight, or for at least 2 hours.
Drain the livers, rinse under running water and put them on a clean tea towel to remove any excess
liquid. Put the crème fraîche, garlic, nutmeg and remaining milk in a medium saucepan. Season with
salt and white pepper and warm over a low heat for 5 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 130°C/250°F/gas 1. Put the livers and Cognac in a blender and blend for 20–30
seconds. Add the eggs, egg yolks and cornflour and blend for a further 5 minutes until smooth and
silky. While the blender is running, gradually add the milk mixture, a little at a time, covering the
blender with the lid between additions and continuing to blend until all the liquid is incorporated.
Strain the mixture through a sieve into a 24 × 10 × 8cm/9½ × 4 × 3¼in terrine mould (preferably cast
iron) and cover with a piece of greaseproof paper the size of the terrine. Put the terrine in a deep
baking dish and fill the dish with enough hot water to come two-thirds of the way up the sides of the
mould. Bake for 1 hour. The terrine is done when a knife inserted into it comes out dry and hot if
tested on sensitive skin such as the inside of your wrist. Alternatively, a thermometer inserted into the
centre reads around 68°C/154°F. Leave the terrine to cool for at least 2–3 hours.
Melt the butter and pour it over the top to prevent oxidation. Cover with cling film and leave for 2
days in the fridge to allow the terrine to set and the flavours to concentrate. To serve, dip a knife in
hot water and run it along the sides of the terrine mould, then put the mould in water for 1 minute to
help loosen it further before unmoulding it onto a plate. Slice and serve with gherkins, pickled
vegetables and warm, toasted bread.
Terrine de porc
PORK TERRINE
Contrary to what people think, making a terrine isn’t difficult, but it does take time – you usually need
to make it at least two days in advance to ensure that the flavours really develop and it sets properly.
This recipe can be easily adapted to use game during the hunting season, if you like. It is also
delicious made with young wild boar, pheasant, partridge, wild duck or deer.
Preparation time 35 minutes, plus overnight marinating and 2 days resting
300g/10½oz pork shoulder, cut into 2.5/1in cubes

300g/10½oz pork liver, minced
300g/10½oz pork neck, half cut into 2.5cm/1in cubes and half minced
300g/10½oz pork fat from belly, minced
3 tbsp Armagnac
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup dry white wine
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
12 slices of smoked streaky bacon
2 eggs
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup double cream
35g/1¼oz/¼ cup shelled unsalted pistachio nuts
2 thyme sprigs
pickled vegetables, to serve
warm toasted bread, to serve
Twenty-four hours before cooking, chop the pork shoulder, pork liver, pork neck and pork fat until
you have a coarse mince texture, or pulse in a food processor. If using a food processor, process one
ingredient at a time before transferring it to a large mixing bowl. Mix in the Armagnac, nutmeg, wine,
salt and white pepper, then cover with cling film and marinate in the fridge overnight. If time doesn’t
allow, chill for at least 3 hours.
Preheat the oven to 130°C/250°F/gas 1 and remove the bowl from the fridge. Cover the base and
sides of a 24 × 10 × 8cm/9½ × 4 × 3¼in terrine mould with the bacon, allowing it to hang over the
sides, and set aside.
Now it is time to finish the terrine mix. Whisk the eggs and cream together and gradually mix them
into the meat, using a spatula. Once thoroughly mixed, add the pistachios. Transfer to the terrine
mould (preferably cast iron) and pack the mixture down by pressing with the spatula or the back of a
spoon. Put the thyme sprigs on top and cover with the overlapping bacon. Put the terrine in a deep
baking dish and fill the dish with enough hot water to come two-thirds of the way up the sides of the
terrine mould. Bake for 1½ hours.
The terrine is done when a thermometer inserted into the centre reads around 68°C/154°F.
Alternatively, insert a knife into the terrine. It should come out dry and hot if tested on sensitive skin
such as the inside of your wrist or your lip.
Leave the terrine to cool completely at room temperature with a 1–2kg/2lb 4oz–4lb 8oz weight, such
as a bag of sugar, on top. Place a piece of greaseproof paper between the terrine and the weight. Once
cold, cover and leave in the fridge for 2 days before serving to allow the flavours to develop. This
resting time will really enhance the flavour. Serve with pickled vegetables and bread.
Rillettes de canard
DUCK RILLETTES
Rillettes are prepared from cooked, shredded meat and are served in ways similar to pâté. Ready-
made rillettes are widely available from delicatessens, but they are also easy to make yourself – with
the bonus that you also get to use the meat or poultry of your choice. As well as the traditional pork
belly, you can make rillettes from duck, goose, rabbit or even wild boar. Served with toasted baguette
and other charcuterie, they make an ideal starter.
Preparation time 30 minutes, plus overnight marinating and 1 day resting
8 large duck legs, 150g/5½oz each

60g/2¼oz/¼ cup sea salt
3 bay leaves
5 thyme sprigs, lightly crushed
1.5kg/3lb 5oz goose fat
a few whole black peppercorns (optional)
crusty bread, to serve
Put the duck legs in a bowl, skin-side down. Add the salt, 2 of the bay leaves and 4 of the thyme
sprigs and season with pepper. Toss well, then cover with cling film and marinate in the fridge
overnight or for at least 2 hours. The longer you leave the duck to marinate the more flavour your dish
will have.
Preheat the oven to 130°C/250°F/gas 1. Briefly rinse the duck legs under cold running water to
remove the excess salt, then drain on kitchen towel.
Melt the goose fat in a large cast iron casserole dish over a low heat. Add the duck and toss until well
coated, then transfer to the preheated oven, uncovered, and cook without stirring for 6 hours until the
meat is falling easily from the bone. Remove the duck legs from the pan, discard the skin and bones
and shred the meat into a mixing bowl, using a fork. Mix in a little of the warm goose fat to moisten.
Transfer the mixture to a sealable jar, or to a small earthenware dish, and press it down. Pour a film
of goose fat over the top to seal it, then top with the remaining thyme sprig and bay leaf and a few
whole peppercorns, if liked. Cover with greaseproof paper and refrigerate for at least 24 hours
before using to enhance the flavour. The remaining goose fat can be put in a jar and kept for other
uses.
Serve with crusty bread.

Salade de fromage de chèvre
GOAT’S CHEESE SALAD
As an alternative to my classic Goat’s Cheese Salad below, you could also try this even simpler
version – it’s full of wonderful flavours! Simply stop at the supermarket and pick up a selection of
green salad leaves, a loaf of bread and some goat’s cheese. Go home and make croûtons with golden,
melted goat’s cheese and a little walnut oil drizzled over the top. Serve with the fresh green salad and
a glass of chilled white wine. Santé!
Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus making the vinaigrette
1 head of yellow chicory

1 head of purple chicory
100g/3½oz rocket leaves
175g/6oz goat’s cheese, such as Sainte Maure, Coeur de Lion La Buche or any other good-quality goat’s cheese
20g/¾oz/¼ cup chopped walnuts or hazelnuts
1 recipe quantity French Vinaigrette (see page 20)
Cut off the base and outer leaves of the chicory, then cut each head into half, lengthways, and remove
the core. Arrange the chicory and rocket on four plates, with the rocket in the middle. Crumble the
goat’s cheese over the salad and sprinkle with the walnuts. Drizzle with the dressing and serve.
CHEF’S TIP: Add some hazelnut oil to your French Vinaigrette, making the dressing less classic
but adding extra flavour to the salad. Also, to add extra crunch to your salad, toast the nuts in a
frying pan over a medium heat, tossing them often and watching them closely so that they don’t
burn.
Soufflé au fromage
CHEESE SOUFFLÉ
Preparation time 40 minutes, plus chilling and infusing
60g/2¼oz butter, softened

50g/1¾oz/heaped cup plain flour
300ml/10½oz/scant 1¼ cups milk
1 bouquet garni, made with 1 parsley sprig, 1 thyme sprig and 1 small bay leaf, tied together with kitchen string
4 eggs, separated
100g/3½oz/¾ cup grated Cheddar cheese
100g/3½oz/¾ cup grated hard cheese, such as Comté, plus extra for sprinkling
cayenne pepper (or paprika for a milder flavour), for sprinkling
a few drops of lemon juice
60g/2¼oz mild, crumbly goat’s cheese, diced
Mix 50g/1¾oz of the butter with the flour until the mixture forms a smooth paste. Transfer to a small
dish, cover with cling film and chill for 20 minutes.
Put the milk, bouquet garni and nutmeg in a small saucepan and bring to the boil over a high heat.
Remove from the heat and set aside to infuse and cool down for about 15 minutes until warm.
Strain the milk mixture into a large saucepan and season with salt and pepper. Reheat gently over a
medium-low heat to a simmer, then add the butter and flour paste bit by bit, stirring until the milk
thickens. It should have a very smooth texture without any lumps. Continue to cook the milk mixture
for a further 5 minutes, then add the egg yolks one by one, stirring until combined after each addition.
Add 80g/2¾oz/ cup each of the Cheddar and Comté cheeses and stir well. Season again with salt
and pepper and set aside.
Grease four individual 9 × 5cm/3½ × 2in ramekins (or one round 18 × 8cm deep/7 × 3¼in deep
soufflé dish) with the remaining butter, then coat the inside of the dishes with the remaining Cheddar
and Comté cheeses, sprinkle a little cayenne pepper over and chill to set while you finish preparing
the soufflé mixture.
Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/gas 5 and rub a large clean bowl with the lemon juice, then wipe
dry. Put the egg whites in the bowl and beat with a whisk or electric mixer until medium to stiff peaks
form. Avoid overbeating or the mixture will split and the soufflés will collapse. Whisk half the egg
whites into the cheese mixture, then carefully fold in the rest, using a spatula, until smooth and firm
but light.
Spoon half the mixture into the ramekin dishes, add the goat’s cheese and then top with the remaining
soufflé mixture. Smooth the tops and wipe the inside borders of the dishes clean with your thumb.
Finally, sprinkle a little extra Comté over.
Bake the soufflés in the preheated oven for 10 minutes (12 minutes if you are making one large
soufflé), then lower the temperature to 170°C/325°F/ gas 3 and bake for a further 15–20 minutes until
well risen, golden brown and slightly trembling. Switch the oven off and leave the soufflés in the
oven for a further 2–3 minutes, then remove from the oven. Serve immediately.
Les Viandes
MEAT, POULTRY & GAME
There is such a diverse selection of meat and poultry from all around France that the
possibilities are endless. In most brasseries you will find the traditional favourites, popular all
over the country, as well as specialities from the individual region such as roast Leg of Lamb
with Garlic & Lavender in the south and classic Boeuf Bourguignon in Burgundy. Some of my
personal favourites are from my own region. For me, you can’t beat a farm-sourced Pork Steak
with Mustard & Gherkin Sauce or Maman’s Pot-Roasted Pheasant. This is real food – the food
we love to eat. Eat to live or live to eat – no contest really!
Steak au beurre d’herbes et citron
STEAK WITH HERB & LEMON BUTTER
There is so much you can do with the forgotten cuts of meat. Rump, oxtail, cheek and blade are good
for a variety of uses, from minute steaks to stews, and they make a refreshing change from the classic
fillet, sirloin or entrecôte. When growing up, we used to eat minute steaks and stews quite often.
Maman always made them on tuesdays, because that was market day and the meat was guaranteed to
be fresh and of high quality. The classic minute steak is a terrific no-nonsense meal – great served
with home-made fries and a seasonal salad or in a simple baguette with mustard.
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus making the fries and salad

4 rump steaks, about 175g/6oz each, flattened
15g/½oz butter
1 recipe quantity Large French Fries with sea salt (see page 165), to serve
seasonal salad, to serve
LEMON & HERB BUTTER

250g/9oz butter, softened
2 flat-leaf parsley sprigs, chopped
1 tarragon sprig, finely chopped
zest of 1 lemon
juice of ½ lemon
First, make the lemon and herb butter. Put the butter, herbs and lemon zest and juice in a bowl and
season with salt and pepper. Mix together with a wooden spoon, then set aside 4 heaped teaspoons to
use with the steaks.
Put a piece of cling film on a work surface and spoon half of the remaining lemon and herb butter
along the middle. Wrap the cling film around the butter and roll into a log shape. Repeat with the
remaining butter, then wrap each log in a piece of foil and freeze. You can then cut pieces off at your
convenience for use on barbecues and grilled or pan-fried meats.
Now make the steaks. Warm the oil in a large, ridged griddle or frying pan over a medium heat.
Season the steaks with salt and pepper and fry for 2 minutes. Just before turning them, add the plain
butter. Turn and cook for a further 2 minutes. Try not to let the butter burn, as it would give the meat a
burnt taste. It should be a lovely, light hazelnut colour.
Put your steaks, piping hot, on a plate and top each one with 1 teaspoon of the reserved lemon and
herb butter. Let it melt into the steaks a little, then serve with large french fries and salad.
CHEF’S TIP: To stop the edges of the steak from curling upwards when being cooked, use a small,
sharp knife to ‘nip’ into the edges of the fat.
Boeuf bourguignon
BEEF BOURGUIGNON
This is an iconic French dish, and if you want to make it as the French do, you will probably use
Charolais beef and a full-bodied Burgundy red wine. You don’t need to use prime cuts of beef – the
braising cuts, such as brisket, silverside, blade, cheek or even shank are more economical and give
the dish much more flavour. In France, the process of cooking Boeuf Bourguignon often begins two
days before serving, to soften up the meat and conserve the aromas – but a three-hour marinade will
do just as well.
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus 3 hours marinating
800g/1lb 12oz beef brisket, cut into large cubes

1l/35fl oz/4 cups full-bodied red wine
2 thyme sprigs
4 garlic cloves, crushed with the flat edge of a knife or your hand
3 tbsp Cognac
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup sunflower oil
2 tbsp plain flour
600ml/21fl oz/scant 2½ cups veal stock or Chicken Stock (see page 18)
1 bouquet garni made with 1 parsley sprig, 1 thyme sprig and 1 small bay leaf, tied together with kitchen string
2 carrots, peeled, halved lengthways and cut into chunks
12 silverskin onions
100g/3½oz small button mushrooms
100g/3½oz pancetta, diced
1 handful of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 recipe quantity Creamed Mashed Potatoes (see page 165), to serve
In a deep dish, mix together the beef, wine, thyme, garlic and Cognac. Cover with cling film and leave
to marinate in the fridge for at least 3 hours.
Drain the meat into a bowl, using a colander, and reserve the marinade.
Heat 4 tablespoons of the oil in a large saucepan or cast iron pot over a medium heat. Add the meat
and cook for 20 minutes until brown, season with salt and pepper, then sprinkle with the flour and
cook, stirring, for a further 2–3 minutes. Add the stock and reserved marinade and bring to the boil.
Skim the foam off the surface and add the bouquet garni, then reduce the heat to low and simmer,
partially covered, for 1 hour 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender. By that time
you should have a rich, silky sauce.
About 50 minutes before the end of the cooking time, heat another medium saucepan with 1
tablespoon of the oil over a medium-low heat. Add the carrots and onions and cook for 10 minutes or
until soft and pale gold in colour, then add to the meat saucepan.
When the beef is almost ready, heat the remaining oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the
mushrooms and pancetta and fry for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, then add
them to the beef. Check the seasoning adjusting the salt and pepper, if necessary, throw in the parsley
and stir gently without breaking the delicate pieces of beef.
Serve hot with creamed mashed potatoes for a perfect winter warmer.
Heat 4 tablespoons of the oil in a large saucepan or cast iron pot over a medium heat. Add the meat
and cook for 20 minutes until brown, season with salt and pepper, then sprinkle with the flour and
cook, stirring, for a further 2–3 minutes. Add the stock and reserved marinade and bring to the boil.
Skim the foam off the surface and add the bouquet garni, then reduce the heat to low and simmer,
partially covered, for 1 hour 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender. By that time
you should have a rich, silky sauce.
About 50 minutes before the end of the cooking time, heat another medium saucepan with 1
tablespoon of the oil over a medium-low heat. Add the carrots and onions and cook for 10 minutes or
until soft and pale gold in colour, then add to the meat saucepan.
When the beef is almost ready, heat the remaining oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the
mushrooms and pancetta and fry for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, then add
them to the beef. Check the seasoning adjusting the salt and pepper, if necessary, throw in the parsley
and stir gently without breaking the delicate pieces of beef.
Serve hot with creamed mashed potatoes for a perfect winter warmer.
Steak tartare
STEAK TARTARE
The classic Steak Tartare is made without tomato sauce or egg yolk, but it was traditionally served
with tartare sauce, which is where its name comes from. This famous dish first appeared in French
restaurants in the early 2oth century and has remained popular ever since. As it is made from raw
beef, it is very important to use top-quality meat. If you use beef fillet, choose the end part of the
fillet, and save the more expensive middle section for other uses. A cheaper cut I would recommend
is sirloin, as it is as tender and tasty. Whichever cut you choose, make sure it is very fresh.
1 small shallot, finely chopped

1 tbsp chopped parsley leaves
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp tomato sauce
1 tbsp capers, chopped
2 egg yolks
2 tbsp olive oil
600g/1lb 5oz beef fillet or sirloin, trimmed of any sinew and cut into very small dice
Mix the shallot, parsley, mustard, tomato sauce and capers in a medium-sized bowl. Add the egg
yolks, season with salt and pepper, then drizzle in the olive oil while still mixing. Finally, stir in the
beef and check and adjust the seasoning.
Divide the mixture into 4, shape into patties and serve.
CHEF’S TIP: For a variation, I also like to make steak tartare using wasabi instead of mustard
and a few drops of Worcestershire sauce.
Foie de veau poêlé aux câpres, persil et cerfeuil
PAN-FRIED CALVES’ LIVER WITH CAPERS, PARSLEY & CHERVIL
This dish is adored equally on both sides of the Channel. It is hard to find top-quality calves’ liver,
unless you know the farmer or your butcher has a good supplier, but it is well worth the search –
calves’ liver should be firm in texture and milky in colour. The success of your dish depends both on
the quality of the liver and the way in which you cook it. Here it is simply pan-fried and served with a
caper and herb butter, some delicious creamy mashed potatoes and warm, zesty buttered spinach. So
easy to prepare, and really satisfying. I am a happy man.
Preparation time 15 minutes, plus making the potatoes and spinach
4 calves’ livers, about 150g/5½oz each and 1cm/½in thick

85g/3oz butter
2 tbsp rinsed chopped capers
1 small handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 small handful of chervil, chopped
1 recipe quantity buttered spinach with Lemon Zest (see page 162), to serve
Put the calves’ liver on some kitchen towel and pat dry to ensure it fries rather than boils.
Warm half the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat. When it is melted and a lovely golden
colour, add the liver to the pan and cook for 2 minutes on each side or until medium-rare to medium
and golden brown on both sides. Remove from the pan and keep warm.
Add the remaining butter to the pan, then add the capers, parsley and chervil, mixing with a wooden
spoon. Season with salt and pepper, then pour the mixture over the liver. Serve hot with creamed
mashed potatoes and buttered spinach with lemon zest.
Agneau aux petits légumes et sauce vierge
ROAST LAMB WITH MEDITERRANEAN VEGETABLES & SAUCE VIERGE
It’s funny the things that get us excited. For me it is the seasons – not just the colours and the smells,
but knowing that soon certain produce is going to be available that hasn’t been around for a while.
When spring arrives, it is wild garlic first, then peas and, at last, the new season’s spring lamb: milk-
fed and unbelievably tender. Simply pan-roasted and served with courgettes, tomatoes and sauce
vierge, this dish brings out all the freshness and colour of the Mediterranean. Enjoy it with a light
rosé wine, close your eyes and there you are – in Provence.
2 lamb fillets or loin of lamb, fully trimmed

4 rosemary sprigs
2 tbsp olive oil
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 recipe quantity Sauce Vierge (see page 21), to serve
MEDITERRANEAN VEGETABLES
4–6 tbsp olive oil
2 plum tomatoes, cut into 5mm/¼in-thick rounds
2 small courgettes, cut into 5mm/¼in-thick rounds
1 aubergine, cut into 5mm/¼in-thick rounds
Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/gas 7. Season the lamb with salt and pepper, pierce each fillet on
both sides with a sharp knife and insert a rosemary sprig into each opening. Heat an ovenproof frying
pan over a medium heat and add the oil and garlic. Add the lamb and cook for about 5 minutes,
turning continuously until sealed and golden brown all over, then put it in the oven for 5–8 minutes.
Remove, set aside and keep warm.
Meanwhile, cook the vegetables. Heat a frying pan over a medium heat and add the oil. Add the
vegetables in batches so they are in a single layer, season with salt and pepper and fry for 3–4
minutes on each side until just tender and golden.
Starting with the tomatoes, place 3 slices of tomato and 2 slices of courgette and aubergine,
alternately and just overlapping, in the centre of each of four plates. Carve the lamb into thick slices
on the diagonal and arrange on top of the vegetables. Spoon the Sauce Vierge over the lamb and on
the plates and serve.
Jarrets d’agneau braisés au vin rouge
LAMB SHANKS BRAISED IN RED WINE
Why did I choose this dish? Simple – I love it! I think a lot of people feel the same way because it is
delicious, easy to make and not too costly. The aromas that fill your kitchen are incredible, from the
marinade right through to the roasting. Try to use herbs that are in season. In winter, use rosemary and
thyme, for example, and in spring or summer, try herbes de Provence. If you are lucky enough to be
able to pick fresh herbs, gently rub them in your hand before you throw them in the pot – this helps to
release their essential oils. And don’t forget to enjoy the fragrance left on your hand – it is a special
moment where time stops for a few seconds, and you are glad to be exactly where you are.
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus making the stock, potatoes and ratatouille
4 small lamb shanks

1 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, cut lengthways into 8 slices
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 celery stick, thinly sliced
2 tomatoes, quartered
1 garlic bulb, unpeeled and halved horizontally
750ml/26fl oz/3 cups full-bodied red wine
500ml/17fl oz/2 cups Lamb stock (see page 18) or water
3 thyme or rosemary sprigs, or 1 small handful of mixed herbes de Provence
½ recipe quantity Ratatouille Provençale (see page 148), to serve
Put the lamb shanks on a plate, season well with salt and pepper, then rub the seasoning into the meat
with your fingers. Heat the sunflower and olive oils in a cast iron pot over a medium to high heat.
When the oils are hot but not burning, add the lamb shanks and cook, partially covered, for 20 minutes
or until they turn a lovely golden brown colour. Make sure the heat is high enough to seal the meat, but
not burn it, and turn frequently.
Add the onion, carrots, celery, tomatoes and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for a further 10
minutes until the vegetables are a light golden colour. Add the wine, cover partially with a lid, and
cook for 5 minutes or until the liquid has reduced by half. This reduction helps to remove the acidity
from the wine.
Add the stock and bring to the boil over a high heat, then reduce the heat to low. Cover partially with
a lid, leaving a very small gap, and simmer for 2 hours until the lamb is meltingly tender and the
sauce has reduced down a little. Keep an eye on the pot during cooking. Turn the meat from time to
time and make sure it doesn’t braise too fast and dry out – you want to have some sauce at the end.
About half an hour before your lamb is ready, add the herbs and cover partially again. I can already
smell the mix simmering in the pot and gently wafting around the kitchen – what a joy!
Serve hot with creamed mashed potatoes and ratatouille provençale.
CHEF’S TIP: If by chance you find that you have used a wine that is too acidic and you don’t
realize it until you taste the dish, add 1 teaspoon caster sugar this will help to rebalance the
flavours.
Gigot d’agneau rôti à l’ail et lavande
ROAST LEG OF LAMB WITH GARLIC & LAVENDER
Rosemary and thyme are classic flavours to match with lamb, but lots of other herbs also go well with
it. Personally, I find lavender wonderful. There are just two things to remember: measure it carefully
(as too much can make your food bitter) and only use the flowers, not the stalks. A few years ago,
while on holiday in Provence, we were walking to town to get some baguettes and pains au chocolat
for breakfast when we found ourselves amid a sea of lavender fields. The colour and aroma were
truly magical. On the way back we picked huge bunches of it. Some we tied together to take home and
dry, and some I decided to put in the pot … this is what I made.
Preparation time 25 minutes, plus overnight marinating and making the potatoes
1.5kg/3lb 5oz leg of lamb
1 garlic bulb, unpeeled and halved horizontally

8 lavender sprigs, flower heads only
150ml/5fl oz/scant cup olive oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
2 shallots, unpeeled and halved
1 recipe quantity Sautéed Potatoes with Parsley & Garlic (see page 163), to serve
You need to prepare this dish the day before you want to eat it.
Put the lamb in a cling film-lined roasting tin that fits in the fridge and season with black pepper.
(Don’t season with salt now, as it draws the blood out of the lamb. Salt is always added just before
cooking meat.) Add the garlic bulb and 6 heads of the lavender and pour 90ml/3fl oz/generous cup
of the oil over the top. Rub the seasonings in thoroughly, then wrap the lamb in the cling film and
leave in the fridge overnight.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6. Unwrap the lamb, put it back in the roasting tin with the
garlic bulb and dab it with kitchen towel. Pierce it several times with a sharp knife and push a halved
garlic clove inside each opening. Add the shallots to the pan, pour the remaining oil over the top,
season with salt and pepper and then roast in the preheated oven for 1 hour until golden brown on the
outside but still pink and moist inside. Remove the lamb from the tin and wrap it in foil to keep warm.
Put 100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup water in the roasting tin to deglaze, then return it to the oven and cook
for 3–4 minutes until reduced. This will gather all the flavours from the caramelization of the meat
and give you the concentrated juice you need.
Unwrap the lamb. You will find some juice has also gathered in the foil – add it to the juice in the
roasting tin, stir and set aside.
Slice the lamb, then drizzle it with the juice, sprinkle with the remaining lavender flowers and serve
with sautéed potatoes.
CHEF’S TIP: While lavender is a stunning match with the lamb, this dish can be made with more
traditional herbs, such as rosemary and thyme, or any other herbs of your choice, to create your
personal twist.
Choucroute alsacienne
SAUERKRAUT WITH PORK
Sauerkraut (choucroute in French) became popular when the first brasserie was opened in Paris by a
brewer from Alsace in northeastern France in the late 1800’s. Today it can be found on most, if not
all brasserie menus right across France, and in some brasseries it will be served up more than a
hundred times a day. It is one of those traditional recipes, rarely written down and yet somehow
passed on from generation to generation, and there is probably no greater statement of Alsatian
identity with regard to food than choucroute. In this dish I team it with delicious smoked pork
shoulder and sausages to make a superbly flavoursome combination.
400g/14oz smoked pork shoulder or pancetta

80g/2¾oz duck fat
1 onion, chopped
1kg/2lb 4oz ready-made sauerkraut, drained, rinsed and gently pressed to remove any liquid
1 bouquet garni made with 1 small handful of parsley, 1 thyme sprig and 1 bay leaf, tied together with kitchen string
1 ready-made spice sachet or homemade with 4 juniper berries, 1 clove and a small pinch of cumin seeds, tied up in a small muslin cloth
200g/7oz pork belly
1 5fl oz/4 cups bottled lager
1 tbsp vegetable bouillon powder
2 smoked German sausages, such as Strasbourg or Frankfurter
4 potatoes, peeled and cut in half
mustard, to serve (optional)
Heat a heavy frying pan over a medium-high heat and cook the pork shoulder or pancetta and pork
belly, turning continuously, for about 10 minutes until each piece has an even colour all around.
Remove from the heat and set aside.
Heat the duck fat in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and cook, covered, for 5
minutes, stirring occasionally until translucent but not coloured. Add the sauerkraut, bouquet garni,
spice sachet, sealed pork shoulder and belly, lager and bouillon powder, then cover and cook gently
for 1½ hours over a medium-low heat. Check regularly and stir occasionally so the ingredients do not
burn and stick to the bottom of the pan.
Remove the lid from the saucepan, add the sausages and cook, covered, for a further 30 minutes. Add
the potatoes, then cook for a further 20 minutes until the potatoes are tender, making sure there is still
a bit of liquid in the pan. If the liquid is too low, add 250ml/9fl oz/1 cup water.
Remove from the heat and take out the bouquet garni and spice sachet. Season with salt and pepper,
then transfer the sauerkraut to a large serving dish. Cut the meat, sausages and potatoes and serve on
top of the sauerkraut. You can also have some mustard on the side, which is especially delicious with
the sausages.
Poitrine de pore confite aux pommes
PORK BELLY CONFIT WITH APPLES
I love pork and the moisture and flavour of its delicate fat. If you buy it trimmed of fat, you buy it
trimmed of flavour! The meat also dries out and loses its goodness. Animals raised as free-range
have a far more varied diet, which makes their meat deliciously succulent – perhaps we notice the
improvement in succulence with free-range pigs more because they are bred to be fatter than other
animals. For me, the fattier cuts, such as pork belly, are best roasted first and then braised long and
slow. I promise, they are well worth the wait.
Preparation time 25 minutes, plus overnight marinating and making the cabbage and potatoes
juice of 1 lemon
1kg/2lb 4oz apples
1.25kg/2lb 12oz skinless, boneless pork belly, fat layer on
90ml/3fl oz/generous cup sunflower oil
15g/½oz butter
1 recipe quantity Braised Cabbage, (see page 158), to serve
1 recipe quantity Fondant Potatoes with Confit of Garlic (see page 164), to serve
MARINADE
3 onions, quartered
4 thyme sprigs
1 cinnamon stick, halved
1 star anise, halved
4 tbsp sea salt
1.2l/40fl oz/4¾ cups cider
First, put the lemon juice in a bowl of water and set aside. Peel the apples, reserving the skins for the
marinade, and dip the fruit in the lemon water to prevent oxidization. Wrap the apples in kitchen
towel, then place in a dish, cover with cling film and set aside in the fridge.
In another bowl, mix together the reserved apple skins and all the marinade ingredients, except the
cider. Put half of this mixture in a large baking tray lined with kitchen foil. Put the pork belly on top,
then cover with the remaining marinade mixture. Pour the cider over, cover with a sheet of
greaseproof paper and leave to marinate in the fridge overnight.
Preheat the oven to 140°C/275°F/gas 1. Remove the pork from the marinade and dry it on a clean tea
towel. Warm the sunflower oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and cook the pork for about
18-20 minutes, turning occasionally, until golden brown but not crispy or burnt.
Meanwhile, transfer the marinade to a saucepan, bring it to the boil over a high heat and skim it with a
slotted spoon to remove any foam that rises to the surface. Return the pork to the baking tray and pour
the marinade over. Cover with greaseproof paper to prevent the top from drying and bake for 4 hours
or until the meat is very soft. You can check this by sliding a pointed knife through the meat.
When the pork is almost ready, cut each peeled apple into 4 or 6 wedges. Melt the butter in a frying
pan over a medium heat and sauté the apples for 6-8 minutes or until golden brown.
Transfer the meat to a wooden board, cut into portions and serve warm with the apples, braised
cabbage and fondant potatoes.
CHEF’S TIP: If you have any leftover pork, cover it with greaseproof paper and keep refrigerated.
Serve the following day as a cold meat starter with pickles, mustard and farm bread.
Côtes de porc, sauce moutarde et cornichons
PORK STEAKS WITH MUSTARD & GHERKIN SAUCE
If you are concerned about the fat content of cuts such as pork belly, pork collar steak is a delicious,
lower-fat alternative. One of the things I love about pork is how versatile it is. It can accommodate so
many flavours, so many different spices and be cooked in so many ways: grilled, roasted, stir-fried or
stewed. It can even be served cold with mustard on baguette. Its succulence and flavour make it
perfect every time. It is always important to balance dishes well, which is why I like this one so much
– the richness of the cream and pork are offset beautifully by the sharpness of the gherkin and mustard
sauce.
Preparation time 10 minutes, plus making the potatoes

4 pork collar steaks, about 150g/ 5½ oz each
30g/1oz butter
80ml/2½fl oz/ cup single cream
1 tsp wholegrain mustard
1 tarragon sprig
4 small gherkins, halved and sliced into strips
Preheat the oven to 140°C/275°F/gas 1. Warm the oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat.
Add the steaks and cook for 3–4 minutes on each side until golden brown, adding the butter when you
turn them over. Remove from the pan and keep warm in the oven.
Add 4 tablespoons water to the pan to deglaze. You should end up with a pale golden liquid. Bring to
a simmer over a low heat and slowly stir in the cream and mustard. Add the tarragon and gherkins and
season with salt and pepper.
Divide the steaks onto four plates, pour the sauce over and serve immediately with creamed mashed
potatoes – perfect for soaking up the sauce.
Cassoulet toulousain
TOULOUSE CASSOULET
Originating from Castelnaudary in the 14th century, cassoulet is a gorgeous, satisfying, slowly
simmered casserole. It is one of the best-known French dishes worldwide and is probably as near as
you will get to a French national Dish. Haricot beans are at the heart of it, with the addition of meat or
poultry of some kind, although never chicken or fish. In some cities it is made with pork, in others
with mutton, goose or duck and, during the shooting season, game birds are also used. By the way, the
name ‘cassoulet’ comes from the word ‘cassole’, a glazed earthenware pot specially designed for this
dish.
Preparation time 25 minutes, plus soaking the beans
300g/10½oz/1½ cups dried white haricot beans

1 clove
2 onions, 1 peeled and left whole and 1 chopped
100g/3½oz pork rind
300g/10½oz pork belly, skin removed, or pork shoulder
4 garlic cloves
4 tbsp duck fat
400g/14oz pork collar
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 bouquet garni made with 1 parsley sprig, 1 thyme sprig and 1 bay leaf, tied together with kitchen string
4 tbsp tomato purée
4 Toulouse sausages
85g/3oz/1 cup fresh white breadcrumbs
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Put the beans in a bowl, cover with water and leave to soak for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, insert the
clove into the whole onion and set aside.
Rinse the beans in cold water and drain, then transfer to a large flameproof casserole dish. Add the
clove-stuffed onion, pork rind, pork belly and garlic, then add enough water to cover all the
ingredients completely. Partially cover the casserole and place over a medium heat. Bring to a very
gentle simmer, reduce the heat to low and simmer for up to 2½ hours until the meat is tender and the
beans are cooked but still slightly firm. When the beans are ready, season with salt and pepper and
remove from the heat. Set aside, uncovered.
Meanwhile, after the bean mixture has been cooking for 2 hours, heat the duck fat in a large
earthenware dish or large, deep saucepan over a medium heat. Add the pork collar and cook for 8–10
minutes until golden brown, then add the chopped onion, carrots and bouquet garni. Add about half of
the liquid from the bean mixture, then top up with enough water to cover all the ingredients
completely. Stir in the tomato purée. Cover and place over a medium-low heat and cook at a gentle
simmer for 2 hours, or until the pork is very tender, then add the sausages and cook for a further 30
minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Remove the pork collar and sausages from the earthenware
dish and put them in a large baking dish. Discard the bouquet garni. Pour the bean mixture and
remaining contents from the pork collar dish over them and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs. Bake for
30 minutes in the preheated oven until the sauce has thickened slightly and the top is golden brown.
Boudin noir aux poires
BLACK PUDDING WITH PEARS
The sausage-making tradition in France has lasted well over 2,000 years and black pudding, boudin
noir, is one of the oldest charcuterie preparations. It is very perishable and so is produced on a daily
basis in French charcuteries, and it should be used on the day you buy it. Each charcuterie will make
it in a slightly different way from the other: different seasonings, fruit and vegetables will be used and
some may add chestnuts and various aromatic ingredients. However they do it, it is incredibly
popular both in brasseries and at home. I sometimes like to serve it with apples or quince, but I
particularly enjoy it with pear as I have done here.
600g/1lb 5oz black pudding

20g/¾oz butter
2 large pears, peeled, cored and cut into 16 wedges
1 shallot, finely sliced
1 tbsp brown sugar
2 tbsp reduced balsamic vinegar
Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil over a medium heat, then add the black pudding and
simmer for 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside. It is not imperative that you prepare the
black pudding in this way, but it will help prevent it from splitting open.
Melt the butter in a medium frying pan over a medium heat. Add the pears and cook for 3-4 minutes
until a pale, golden brown. Add the shallot and cook for about 4 minutes until softened, then add the
sugar, balsamic vinegar and 3 tablespoons water. Cook for 2-3 minutes until the mixture has the
consistency of a runny syrup. The pear wedges should still retain their shape and not be too soft.
Remove from the heat and set aside.
Slice the black pudding into approximately 5mm/¼in-thick rounds. Heat the sunflower oil in another
medium-sized frying pan over a low heat. Add the black pudding and cook for 6-8 minutes until
browned on both sides and warmed through. You do not want to cook it too fast or it will burst.
To serve, divide the shallot mix from the pan with the pears onto four plates. Arrange the black
pudding on the plates and then the pears. Spoon any remaining syrup over.
La Charcuterie
Charcuterie
The word charcuterie originated from the French term chair cuite – ‘cooked meat’. Today, it has
come to mean the art and science of the pig – in other words, the butchering, fabrication and
preparation of pork – but it is also a term used more generally for all sorts of cold meat, poultry and
fish products and dishes.
At home, we often had charcuterie of cold meat with fresh baguette, gherkins and radishes. This
was our usual starter in spring and summer, and we loved it. Then came the main course, which may
have been smoked pork shoulder, roasted and then braised with cabbage or turnip. In Lure, my
hometown, every Tuesday was market day, when the large town square was filled with local
producers selling livestock. You could choose your pig, hen, duck, turkey, rabbit and a lot more for
your dinner or for your farm. Once a month, farmers from all over the county would come to the
market to meet, make deals and buy livestock. I used to walk among them and listen to the stories they
told. Sometimes, big arguments would break out, and in the regional dialect too, which was so hard to
understand. There was never a dull moment.
My family always bought from the same charcutier. Maman and Papa liked his products, and as
he came from near Maman’s village, he was almost a friend. He always reserved stuff for us and gave
us something extra to eat and try, whether it was salami, or a speciality such as cervelas (a cooked
sausage from Alsace, often served in salad or simply grilled) which was full of garlic but so good.
Several years later, when I was starting my apprenticeship at a hotel in the town of Luxeuil-les-Bains,
I learned how to make a few of the charcuterie products I used to eat. Maman’s and Papa’s
charcutier supplied the hotel. The hotel and the chef patron had a tremendous reputation in the region
and everything was homemade. During my training I often had to prep the fowls, rabbit, deer or other
animals before I started to make a dish. It wasn’t easy, but I was learning – after all, that was why I
was there.
One of the most important charcuterie dishes I learned to make was terrines: a mixture of meat,
fish, poultry or seafood, packed into rectangular dishes and often cooked in a bainmarie . Usually
served in the container in which they are made and accompanied by pickles or even a sauce, they
formed part of a buffet display. Another form of charcuterie I learned how to make was pâté, often en
croûte (in pastry). This is a rich meat, game or fish mixture baked in a pastry crust (usually puff
pastry), which can be served hot or cold as a starter, as part of a cold buffet or as a meal in itself.
Today there is an abundance of different pâtés to choose from, with ingredients including chestnuts,
red wine, herbs and spices. Other important charcuterie dishes in my region were rillettes: a
preparation of pork, rabbit, goose or duck meat chopped, salted, cooked in goose fat and then
pounded to a paste and potted (great on toast!); and boudin noir, or black pudding, a savoury sausage
consisting largely of pork blood and fat, seasoned and contained in intestine, which forms the skin.
Butchers in France all have their own recipes for this, which vary from adding onion and seasoning to
including fruit, vegetables, herbs, cream, semolina, breadcrumbs, and so on. In my region, they add
milk and onions. Boudin noir is delicious fried with apples and served with mashed potatoes.
I was lucky to have such rigorous training and thankfully many artisan producers are going back to
the basics – and people love it. In the Vosges area there are now plenty of fermes-auberges,
farmhouse inns, which rear their own animals and grow their own produce to sell in their shops and
to use in their kitchens.
Such shops are always full and they offer great value for money. Word of mouth brings people
from all over to sample their products. Charcuterie features heavily, of course, and here you can find
and enjoy all the regional specialities, from Rosette de Lyon salami (an exquisite, cured saucisson
made from finely minced pork from animals that live on a pure vegetarian diet) to Saucisse de
Toulouse (a traditional sausage from Toulouse made of coarsely diced pork and flavoured with wine,
garlic and seasoning). It tastes great in cassoulet. I should also give a special mention to foie gras
terrine, which is very popular during the festive season in France. A rare delicacy for food lovers,
but a sensitive subject in general, it is made with goose or duck livers.
No discussion of charcuterie would be complete without mentioning pancetta,, the cured, spiced
pork belly that adds so much flavour to many recipes, and the many delicious types of ham there are
to enjoy. There is jambon cuit (classic cooked ham), which is baked very slowly overnight in a low
oven and traditionally kept in its brine for a few weeks, as well as tender jambon cru (uncooked
ham), such as Jambon de Luxeuil. Similar to Bayonne ham, this is pickled in brine, dried, sometimes
smoked and matured for a month before being used.
Charcuterie products are the ideal foods for eating with family and friends. There is a huge range
of regional specialities to explore and enjoy, many of which have found their way onto brasserie
menus. I have included my favourites in this book and invite you to share them. Bon appétit!
A BRIEF HISTORY OF CHARCUTERIE

An ancient art that commenced nearly 6,000 years ago, charcuterie became popular during the Roman
Empire when food started to become sophisticated. Since then, it has spread to many countries with
diverse traditions and myriad culinary methods.
Charcuterie was extremely popular in France during the Middle Ages, when the country acquired
many varieties of meatloaves, sausages and other meat products that were prepared and sold in
specialist shops known as charcuteries, owned and run by charcutiers, who needed the talent to
season and cook delicious food and present it well to attract customers. They experimented with
different meats and game, resulting in new foods for their customers. This created a lot of competition
between the charcutiers. The popular products and processes spread from France to neighbouring
regions, including Germany. Frankfurt in Germany became famous for the ‘Frankfurter’, a smoked
sausage that evolved into the American hot dog, while Genoa in Italy became renowned for its
salami.
Now, more than 500 years later, you still find such foods in local or regional supermarkets. Stop
at a motorway restaurant or shop in France and you are likely to find charcuterie in all its forms, from
packaged goods to freshly made products, ready to buy and consume on the spot. If you happen to
cross France from north to south or east to west, you will be able to learn a lot about each region
simply by paying attention to what is on offer to eat at that time of year. Like cheeses and regional
recipes, the range of charcuterie is vast, but each region claims the authenticity of their dishes or
specialities. My region, Franche-Comte, is bordered by Alsace, the Vosges, Jura, Burgundy and
Germany, so there are dozens of specialities. One of the best known is saucisse de Morteau from
Morteau in Doubs, a smoked sausage made from a mixture of minced, seasoned meats. Traditionally,
it is smoked in Tuyé chimneys, found in houses typical of the region. This sausage is cooked in
boiling water or braised before you eat it and is delicious with lentils. Other specialities include
jambon fumé, smoked ham, in Luxeuil-les-Bains and palette fumée, tripe sausage, from the Vosges
region. Luckily, all of these regional foods have entered the world of the brasserie, so you can enjoy
them almost anywhere in France.
jambon de Bayonne, bûchettes de saucisson, saucisson de Bigorre, lomo, saucisse au piment
boudin noir (black pudding), salami, chorizo, terrine de porc, coppa des Pyrénées, ventrèche (pancetta), magret de
canard fumé (smoked duck breast)
Poulet au vin rouge
CHICKEN CASSEROLE IN RED WINE
This dish is a variation on Coq au Vin, which is such a classic that it can be found in almost every
brasserie in every region of France. The difference between one Coq au Vin and another is very
subtle: the wine used will most likely be one from that region, and some cooks use more heavily
smoked bacon than others. But, it is generally agreed that you can’t improve on perfection, so no one
tries. Coq au vin has mushrooms in it and silverskin onions rather than shallots, so my dish is called a
casserole, not a coq au vin.
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus making the stock and cooking the tagliatelle
2-3 tbsp flour, for dusting

1 large chicken, about 1.5kg/ 3lb 5oz, cut into 8 pieces
1 shallot, chopped
30g/1oz pancetta
2 large carrots, peeled and sliced
350ml/12fl oz/scant 1½ cups Burgundy red wine, or your choice of regional red table wine
600ml/21fl oz/scant 2½ cups Chicken Stock (see page 18)
55g/2oz butter, diced
1 handful of tarragon, leaves only, or 3-4 thyme sprigs
tagliatelle, cooked, to serve (optional)
Sprinkle the flour into a flat dish, season with salt and pepper and toss the chicken through the flour
until it is lightly coated, then set aside. (The flour will help the sauce thicken while it’s cooking.)
Heat the oil in a cast iron or heavy-based casserole dish over a medium heat. Add the shallot,
pancetta, carrots and garlic and cook for 5 minutes until softened but not coloured, then remove from
the pan and set aside.
Put the chicken in the casserole dish and cook over a medium heat for 8-10 minutes, turning as
necessary, until it has an even colour all around. Add the wine and cook for 10–12 minutes or until
reduced by half. Add the stock and the shallot mixture and bring to the boil over a high heat. Skim the
surface to remove any fat, then reduce the heat to low and cook, partially covered, for 15-20 minutes.
Remove the chicken from the casserole dish and set aside. Heat the cooking liquid, uncovered, over a
medium heat for about 12–15 minutes until it reduces and turns into a lovely, light shiny syrup.
Remove from the heat and stir in the butter until melted and combined. Put the chicken back in the dish
and add the tarragon, keeping aside a few sprigs to sprinkle on top. Serve immediately with fresh
tagliatelle, if liked.
Blancs de poulet au ragoût de petits légumes et lardons
PAN-FRIED CHICKEN WITH GARDEN VEGETABLE & PANCETTA
RAGOÛT
Cooking time 1 hour
1.5kg/3lb 5oz broad beans in the pods and then shelled, or 400g/14oz/heaped 2 cups shelled broad beans
4 chicken breasts on the bone, about 180g/6¼oz each
60g/2¼oz butter
1 small handful of summer savory (sarriette) or 2 thyme sprigs
14 spring onions, white bulb only and root cut off
a pinch of caster sugar
100g/3½oz pancetta, diced
1 tsp thyme leaves
4 tbsp Chicken Stock (see page 18) or water
Bring a saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil. Add the broad beans and blanch for 20 seconds,
then drain and refresh immediately in a bowl of ice-cold water and drain again. Peel the beans and
discard the outer skins. I know it’s a fiddly job, but it’s worth the trouble as it changes the flavour
completely. Set aside for your ragoût.
Warm the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan or cast iron pan over a medium heat. Season the
chicken with salt and pepper and cook, skin-side down and partially covered, for 8 minutes or until
golden brown and slightly crispy. Turn the chicken over and add a knob of the butter along with the
garlic and summer savory sprigs. Reduce the heat to low and cook for a further 8 minutes. Transfer to
a serving dish, cover with kitchen foil and keep warm. Set the pan aside for making the jus later.
To make the ragoût, melt a knob of the remaining butter in a small frying pan over a medium heat. Add
the spring onions and cook, stirring frequently, for 5–6 minutes until light golden. Season with salt
and pepper and sprinkle in the sugar. Add 4 tablespoons water and cook over a low heat, partially
covered, for 12–15 minutes or until the water has almost evaporated and the spring onions are slightly
glazed.
Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Add the pancetta and blanch for 1–2 minutes, then
drain, refresh immediately in a bowl of cold water and drain again. Don’t be tempted to blanch the
pancetta any longer or it will turn too dry. Pat dry with kitchen towel.
Sauté the pancetta in a medium frying pan over a medium heat for about 4 minutes until slightly crispy.
Stir in the broad beans, spring onions and thyme leaves and keep warm.
To make the jus, add the stock to the pan you roasted the chicken in and simmer for 2 minutes over a
medium-low heat, then add the juices that will have collected under your chicken and stir in the
remaining butter to give it a velvety shine.
Remove the chicken breasts from the bone, cut each of the 4 breasts into thick slices and arrange on a
plate. Divide the ragoût onto the four plates, spoon the jus over and serve.
Poule au pot, sauce gribiche
POACHED CHICKEN WITH SAUCE GRIBICHE
Preparation time 1 hour
1 large chicken, about 1.5-1.8kg/3lb 5oz-4lb

1 tarragon sprig
1 bouquet garni made with 2 parsley sprigs, 1 thyme sprig and 1 small bay leaf, tied together with kitchen string
1 celery stick, peeled and cut in half
4 large carrots, peeled and cut in half lengthways
2 leeks, washed, cut in half lengthways and tied together
2 small turnips, peeled and cut in half
1 small cabbage, cut into quarters
4 cloves
2 small onions, cut in half
bread, to serve
SAUCE GRIBICHE
1 tsp white wine vinegar, plus 1 tsp for hard-boiling the eggs
4 eggs
1 tsp of Dijon mustard
250ml/9fl oz/1 cup sunflower oil or light olive oil
40g/1½oz/¼ cup chopped gherkins
40g/1½oz/¼ cup capers, chopped
1 flat-leaf parsley sprig, leaves only, finely chopped
1 tarragon sprig, leaves only, finely chopped
1 chervil sprig, leaves only, finely chopped
Put the chicken in a large saucepan, season with a handful of sea salt and cover with water. Bring to
the boil over a high heat, then skim the foam that rises to the top, using a ladle. Reduce the heat so that
the chicken is only simmering, then add the tarragon, bouquet garni, celery, carrots, leeks, turnips and
cabbage. Push a clove into each of the onion halves and add to the saucepan. Cook the chicken for 1¼
hours until the meat is very tender and falling off the bone.
Meanwhile, make the sauce gribiche. Fill a small saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Add a
teaspoon of vinegar to the water, as this will make the eggs easier to shell after cooking. Place 1 egg
in a ladle, then slowly and carefully slide the egg into the water so that you don’t break the shell.
Repeat for the remaining 3 eggs. Cook for 8 to 9 minutes until hard-boiled, drain and place the eggs
under running cold water. When cool enough to handle, shell the eggs and cut in half.
Using a pestle and mortar or a food processor, mash the hard-boiled egg yolks until they form a
smooth paste. Mix in the mustard and season with salt and pepper. While still mixing, add the
vinegar, then slowly add the oil until the consistency resembles mayonnaise. Fold the gherkins, capers
and herbs into the mixture and adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary. Finely chop the cooked egg
whites and add them to the sauce. If you like, this sauce can be made the night before and chilled in
the fridge.
Now it is time to enjoy. Serve the broth as a first course with a piece of bread – it is really good –
then remove the chicken from the pan and cut it into pieces. Serve with the vegetables and Sauce
Gribiche.
CHEF’S TIP: You can replace the chicken with a piece of braising beef or even pork. For the best
results, I would recommend blade, top side or silverside for the beef and, for the pork, the belly or
collar. And if you like marrow, even better. It’s great for serving with the beef.
Salade de blancs de volaille grillés.
CHARGRILLED CHICKEN SALAD
This is another very French salad found on every brasserie menu. It is very refreshing, with a nice
crunch. You can use chervil instead of the tarragon; it is a wonderful herb that should be grown and
used more often! Another delicious alternative is to use Saffron Mayonnaise (see page 21) instead of
garlic mayonnaise and flat-leaf parsley instead of tarragon.
Preparation time 35 minutes, plus 20 minutes marinating
4 chicken breasts, skin on

olive oil, for seasoning
1 tsp vinegar
8 quail eggs
2 tbsp garlic mayonnaise
2 tbsp chopped tarragon
juice of 1 small lemon
1 cos lettuce, cut into large pieces
2 tbsp croûtons
Put the chicken breasts in a small dish, season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Cover
with cling film and leave to marinate for 15–20 minutes.
Meanwhile, soft-boil the quail eggs. Fill a small saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Add the
vinegar to the water, as this will make the eggs easier to shell after cooking. Place the eggs in a ladle,
then slowly and carefully slide them into the water so that you don’t break the shells. Cook for 4
minutes, drain and place the eggs under running cold water. When cool enough to handle, shell the
eggs, cut in half and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6. Heat a ridged griddle pan over a medium heat and fry the
chicken breasts, skin-side down, for 5 minutes, then turn them over and fry for another 5 minutes.
Your chicken breasts should now have charred grill marks on both sides. Transfer to a baking dish
and roast in the preheated oven for a further 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the mayonnaise, tarragon and lemon juice in a large serving bowl, season with salt
and pepper and mix well. Add the lettuce and mix.
Remove the chicken from the oven and cut it into thick slices while it is still warm. Arrange the slices
on top of the salad and top with the quail eggs and finally the croûtons. Serve warm.
Poulet fermier à la crapaudine
SPATCHCOCKED CHICKEN
It was Grand-Mère Suzanne who taught me how to make food for the chickens on the farm – cooked
jacket potatoes, still warm, crushed together with grain and water by hand. I can still remember how
sore my hands would get after a while. Once made, we would put the mix in the tray and call the
chickens by shouting “piu, piu, piu”. They would all charge over, clucking in anticipation. When the
chickens had devoured the mix, we would throw them some corn, too. All this was done twice a day
– now that’s the way to treat chickens! We fed them well knowing that one day they were going to
feed us, and when it was time to put them in the pot we didn’t feel too sad, as we knew it was just
nature taking its course. This is a very traditional recipe, normally prepared with baby chicken called
poussin, however, you could also use guinea fowl for a change – an often forgotten poultry that is
quite delicious. Here I’ve used one larger chicken to serve four.
1 × 25kg/2lb 12oz chicken, cut in half along both sides of the back bone, but kept as a whole piece
2 tbsp olive oil
100g/3½oz butter, melted
Dijon mustard or wasabi paste, for brushing (optional)
100g/3½oz/1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
chilli-flavoured olive oil, to serve
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6. Place the chicken on a chopping board, breast bone facing
down, and press down firmly with the heels of your hands to break the joints and flatten. Season with
salt and pepper and brush with the olive oil and 30g/1oz of the melted butter. Place skin-side up in a
baking tray in the oven and roast for 35–40 minutes.
Remove from the oven and preheat the grill to low. Drizzle the chicken evenly with the remaining
melted butter, then brush with the mustard or wasabi, if using, and cover with the breadcrumbs. Place
under the grill and cook gently for a further 10 minutes, checking often to make sure the breadcrumbs
don’t burn. Cut the chicken into 4 and serve immediately with a chilli oil dressing.
Confit de canard aux lentilles
DUCK CONFIT WITH LENTILS
This is a great brasserie dish from the south west of France, the foie gras region. There are so many
varieties of duck to choose from: Gressingham, Mallard, Canard Croisé, but for this dish I
recommend Barbary Duck, corn-fed if possible, but definitely free range. For me this is hearty winter
food, which is not to say that it is too heavy for the summer: served with salad it can make a terrific
outdoor lunch. Whatever the season, you can’t beat the flavour of crispy duck legs.
Preparation time 40 minutes, plus making the vinaigrette and 6—8 hours marinating
Cooking time 3—4 hours
CONFIT
4 duck legs, about 175g/6oz each, including fat
40g/1½oz sea salt
4 thyme sprigs, leaves only
1kg/2lb 4oz goose or duck fat, melted
2 tbsp honey
LENTILS
200g/7oz/1 cup Puy lentils, picked over and rinsed
1 shallot
1 small carrot, peeled and diced
1 bouquet garni made with 1 thyme sprig and 1 parsley sprig, tied together with kitchen string
1 garlic clove, unpeeled
2-3 tablespoons French Vinaigrette (see page 20)
1 handful of chervil, leaves only, chopped
To make the duck leg confit, put the duck legs in a small baking tray, skin-side down. Season with
salt, pepper, garlic and thyme, cover with cling film, press down and leave to marinate for 2-3 hours
in the fridge.
Preheat the oven to 130°C/250°F/gas 1. Take the duck out of the tray discarding the marinade, rinse
under running cold water and dry on kitchen towel. Put the duck in a large heavy-based casserole or
cast iron pan and pour the melted goose fat on top. Cover with a lid or greaseproof paper sealed with
foil, place in the preheated oven and bake for 3-4 hours. Remove from the oven, skim off any fat,
cover with foil and set aside. Alternatively, you can gently simmer the duck on the stove, covered, for
3-4 hours.
Meanwhile, make the lentils. Put them in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the
boil and skim the white foam from the surface. Add the shallot, carrot, bouquet garni and garlic,
reduce the heat to low and simmer for a further 10 minutes or until al dente. Strain, reserving 2
tablespoons of the cooking liquid, and discard the shallot, bouquet garni and garlic, but leave the
carrots in. Add the vinaigrette, the reserved cooking liquid and the chervil. Taste and adjust the
seasoning with salt and pepper. This should give you a lovely salad.
Finally, brush the duck legs with the honey and pan-roast them skin-side down in a non-stick pan over
a medium heat for 5 minutes or until crispy and golden brown. The honey will caramelize very
quickly, so be careful not to let it burn.
Divide the lentils onto four plates, arrange the duck legs on top and enjoy! Alternatively, arrange in a
large pot to serve from at the table. The texture and delicate flavours of this dish are second to none.
Faisan façon Maman
MAMAN’S POT-ROASTED PHEASANT
Les Trois-Épis is a high plateau on the Alsatian side of the Vosges mountains near Turckheim – it is
surrounded by sweeping vineyards and has a stunning view of the valley below. Best known for the
great Alsace wine it produces, it is also a hunting estate and became one of the favourite stomping
grounds for my father and I whenever the hunting season arrived each year. A lesser known fact about
Les Trois-Épis is that there are an unbelievable number of pheasants hiding among the vineyards
eating grapes. When we started plucking pheasants at home as children, what struck us most was the
colour of the flesh – it was deep purple and smelt strongly of wine! The flavour was already so
tremendous that my mother didn’t need much more than a few pieces of pancetta and some shallots to
finish it off! She always preferred to roast pheasants in the pot, partly to retain the moisture, but also,
I think, because she loved to lift the lid and smell the beautiful aroma. I can taste it like it was
yesterday! Ah … those are the days I miss!
Preparation time 20—25 minutes, plus making the braised cabbage
1 young pheasant, prepared by your butcher (including liver chopped and returned to the cavity)
2 slices of pancetta or smoked bacon
60g/2¼oz butter
2 apples, peeled, cored and quartered
1 bouquet garni made with 1 thyme sprig and 1 parsley sprig, tied together with kitchen string
2 tbsp brandy
250ml/9fl oz/1 cup double cream
1 recipe quantity Braised Cabbage (see page 158) or vegetables of your choice, to serve
Take the pheasant, wrap the pancetta slices around the breast and tie it all up with kitchen string – this
will hold everything together, keeping the pheasant breast moist.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil and the butter in a cast iron pot over a medium heat, then add the
pheasant and pot roast, partially covered, for 40-45 minutes until the meat is well sealed and almost
cooked through. Turn the pheasant occasionally to make sure you get an even rich golden colour all
around.
Reduce the heat to low and add the apples, bouquet garni and brandy. With a wooden spoon, stir the
ingredients to lift any tasty bits that have stuck to the base of the saucepan. Partially cover and cook
for a further 10 minutes, then add the cream and simmer gently, uncovered, for a further 25 minutes or
until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Season with salt and pepper.
Serve the pheasant topped with the sauce and accompanied with braised cabbage or other vegetables
of your choice.
Blancs de pintade aux truffes et poireaux
PAN-ROASTED GUINEA FOWL WITH TRUFFLES & LEEK
In France, when we have the combination of truffles and potatoes in a dish, we talk about the rich
mixing with the poor! Truffles can be expensive, but you don’t need much and the addition can
transform the simple into the spectacular. You can also freeze them if you have any left over. For this
dish you can use chicken, but I find guinea fowl has so much more texture and flavour. Originally a
wild bird, it has since been farmed – which I am glad about, otherwise people would really have
missed out.
4 breasts of guinea fowl (or chicken if you prefer)

2 small black winter truffles, thinly sliced
3 tbsp olive oil
1 leek or 3 baby leeks, green parts only, thinly sliced
300g/11oz small new potatoes, cut into 5mm/¼-in thick rounds
100g/3½oz pancetta, thinly sliced
2 chervil or flat-leaf parsley sprigs, roughly chopped
75g/2½oz butter
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.
Slit the skin of the guinea fowl breasts and place 3 thin slices of truffle underneath. Fold the skin back
over the breast and season both sides of it with salt and pepper. Cut the remaining truffle slices into
thin julienne strips and set aside for the vegetables. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in an ovenproof
frying pan over a medium heat, add the guinea fowl, skin-side down, and cook for 2-3 minutes, until
golden – make sure the pan is not too hot so that the skin does not shrink back too much. Turn the
guinea fowl over and cook for a further minute, then place in the oven for 8 minutes. When ready,
remove the breasts from the oven, put on a plate, set aside and keep warm.
While the guinea fowl is in the oven, heat two pans of salted water until boiling, drop the leeks in one
and cook for 1 minute. Drain, refresh in ice-cold water and drain once more. Put the potatoes into the
other pan of boiling water, cook for 6 minutes, then add the pancetta and cook for a further 2 minutes.
Drain, refresh in ice-cold water and drain again. Heat a frying pan over a medium heat, add the
remaining olive oil, potatoes and pancetta and cook for 1-2 minutes, until golden brown. Add the
leek, a pinch of the reserved truffle and the chervil to the frying pan, then drain off any fat, add 2-3
tablespoons of water and stir to make a sauce. Add the butter and the remaining truffle and cook until
the butter has melted.
Cut each breast in half lengthways. Place some of the leek and potato mixture in the middle of each
serving plate, put the guinea fowl on top and pour the truffle butter sauce over.
Lapin en cocotte au citron et à L’ail
RABBIT CASSEROLE WITH LEMON & GARLIC
All over France, hunters and cooks have for centuries prized wild rabbit for its lean meat and rich
flavour. My grandparents kept rabbits on their farm, so I grew up eating farmed rabbit meat regularly.
Although it was often overlooked in the last few decades, this meat is becoming popular again and
farmed rabbit is now widely available. It tastes like chicken but with a more gamey flavour – and it’s
both delicious and nutritious. Even if you’ve never tried rabbit before, give it a go – I’m sure you will
enjoy it!
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus 5 minutes marinating and making the stock and spinach
juice and zest of 1 lemon

2kg/4lb 8oz farmed rabbit, cut into 8 pieces
90ml/3fl oz/ cup olive oil
15g/½oz butter
500ml/17fl oz/2 cups Chicken Stock (see page 18)
2 thyme or basil sprigs
1 recipe quantity Buttered Spinach with Lemon Zest (see page 162), to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Put the lemon zest and juice in a large bowl, add the rabbit
pieces and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Leave to marinate for 5
minutes.
Heat the butter and the remaining olive oil in a flameproof casserole dish over a medium heat and
sauté the rabbit pieces until golden brown, about 8-10 minutes on each side. (You may have to do this
in 2 batches depending on the size of your dish.) Add the garlic and the lemon marinade to the pan and
stir to deglaze – there will be a bit of a splash and some smoke. Allow the liquid to reduce for about
5 minutes or until it is slightly syrupy and coats the back of a spoon. You will be able to tell when it’s
ready if when you run 2 fingers down the back of the spoon the 2 lines don’t immediately join. Add
the stock and thyme. Bring to the boil, then transfer the casserole to the preheated oven and bake for
30-35 minutes.
Remove the rabbit from the casserole dish onto an ovenproof serving dish and keep warm in the oven.
Return the casserole dish to the hob and bring the cooking liquid to the boil, then reduce the heat to
low and simmer, uncovered, for about 3-5 minutes until it has the consistency of a light syrup.
Pour the sauce over the rabbit and serve with buttered spinach.
Cuisse de chevreuil en cocotte
VENISON CASSEROLE
This is a dish that used to be on the table very often during the hunting season, as Papa went shooting
twice a week. He was a very good shot and loved it, so we always had game to eat and a full freezer
for the rest of the year. Preparing this dish was very much Maman’s domain and speciality, but I used
to help a lot and really enjoyed preparing the vegetables for the roast to come. This is a simple dish,
but to get it right it requires attention and you need young game for tenderness. This version is only
rubbed quickly with oil and sea salt and is missing a classic red wine marinade, which, generally, I
would reserve for older game – grand veneur.
2 tbsp sea salt

1 venison haunch, about 1.8kg/4lb, tied up with string by your butcher
2 carrots, peeled and cut in half then cut in half lengthways
2 shallots, peeled and cut into small pieces lengthways
1 small head of garlic, unpeeled and cut in half horizontally
1 large thyme sprig
2 tbsp brandy
40g/1½oz butter
pre-cooked chestnuts, to serve
Rub the sea salt and 2 tablespoons of the oil all over the venison.
Heat the remaining oil in a large casserole dish or cast iron pot over a medium heat and fry the
venison for 15–18 minutes, turning constantly, until golden brown all around. Season with pepper,
then add the carrots and shallots and continue cooking with the lid on, but not quite closed, to reduce
the condensation. Lower the heat slightly so it does not burn.
After 30 minutes, stir in the garlic and thyme, then add the brandy to deglaze and flambé. To do this,
light a match and incline the plan slightly at an angle away from you so the flames will take hold.
(Make sure there are no children around.) Alternatively, let the liquid reduce by half during the
cooking process by removing the lid.
Continue cooking the venison for another 20 minutes, uncovered if reducing the liquid now, checking
regularly to make sure it stays nice and moist. If the venison starts to dry, cover the dish partially to
retain some of the moisture. Remove the meat from the casserole dish, transfer to a warmed serving
dish, set aside and keep warm.
You should have some lovely juice at the bottom of the casserole dish and your vegetables should be
golden and almost glazed. Add the butter to them and stir until combined, then season with salt and
pepper. Keep warm while you carve the venison.
Pour the sauce, what we call ‘jus’ in a professional kitchen, over the venison and serve with the
roasted vegetables and chestnuts.
FISH & SHELLFISH
If you were to wander the coastal cities of France, you would stumble upon brasseries with some
spectacular seafood. At the entrance you would probably see display tables of freshly caught
fish and shellfish laid out on ice, and inside you might find a tank with live lobsters and crabs,
ready to be chosen and cooked à la minute. When seafood is this fresh you don’t need to do
much with it – simply grillng or roasting and a little herb butter, such as Dover Sole with Lemon
& Parsley Butter, is all it needs. When eating at home with family or friends, we often enjoy
delicious all-in-one pots of seafood such as a Bouillabaisse or Moules Marinières with
Lemongrass & Chilli – there’s nothing quite like it.
Steak de saumon poêlé avec mayonnaise au citron vert et coriandre
PAN-ROASTED SALMON STEAKS WITH LIME & CORIANDER
MAYONNAISE
Unlike most freshwater fish, salmon have the ability to move freely between rivers and oceans
because their bodies can adjust to changes in salt content. When it’s time to lay their eggs and let the
cycle begin again, and they always know when it is, salmon make the treacherous journey home,
swimming upstream, navigating their way over rocks and through waterfalls, dodging predators,
travelling hundreds of miles to return to the exact place they were born. When I teach trainees, I often
talk about how important it is to treat your ingredients with respect. In the salmon’s case, I think
they’ve earned it!
4 skinless salmon steaks, about 150g/5½oz each

2 tbsp olive oil
15g/½oz butter
1 recipe quantity Warm Crushed Potatoes with Coriander & Lime (see page 163), to serve
LIME & CORIANDER MAYONNAISE

100g/3½oz/generous cup mayonnaise
1 small handful of coriander, leaves only, chopped
zest of 1 lime, plus extra for sprinkling
juice of ½ lime
To make the lime and coriander mayonnaise, put the mayonnaise, coriander and lime zest and juice in
a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper and mix to combine. This gives the mayonnaise a
deliciously light zing and makes the dish really colourful.
For the pan-roasted salmon, season the salmon steaks with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil and
butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat. When the butter is starting to get frothy, add the
salmon steaks and cook for 4–5 minutes on each side until light golden.
Put the salmon steaks on four plates, top with the mayonnaise and sprinkle with extra lime zest. Serve
immediately with warm crushed potatoes.
CHEF’S TIP: Instead of pan-roasting the salmon, you could poach it. To do this, place a saucepan
of salted water over a medium-high heat and bring to the boil, then throw in a few stalks of
coriander and a peeled garlic clove, crushed with the flat edge of a knife or your hand. Reduce the
heat to low, add the salmon and poach for 5 minutes until it flakes off the fork and is still slightly
pink in the middle. This is a delicious and very healthy alternative to pan-roasting.
Sole au beurre citronné et persil
DOVER SOLE WITH LEMON & PARSLEY BUTTER
Summer is the best time of the year to enjoy Dover Sole, but the similarly named but unrelated lemon
sole is more widely available – you can find it during most of the year – which means you can enjoy
this dish all year round, too. For me, sole is sublime: elegant, firm and deliciously delicate, yet full of
flavour. Although it is very versatile, sole actually needs nothing more than grilling and topping with
a light, hazelnut-coloured herb butter to create perfection – pure and simple! This dish is delicious
served with new potatoes and buttered spinach.
4 skinless Dover sole or lemon sole fillets, about 150g/5½oz each

1 tbsp plain flour
2 tbsp olive oil
juice and zest of 1 lemon
1 handful of flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, chopped
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6 and heat a ridged griddle pan or heavy-based frying pan over
a medium heat.
Pat the sole dry with kitchen towel, put it in a shallow dish and dust lightly with the flour. When the
griddle pan is hot, place the sole fillets on it, one at a time, and cook for 1 minute. Rotate the fish 90
degrees and cook for another 1 minute to create a crisscross pattern.
Drizzle a heavy-based baking tray with the olive oil. Arrange the sole on the tray, cooked side up,
then place one-quarter of the butter on each, season with salt and pepper and finish in the preheated
oven for 3–4 minutes or until golden brown. Remove the fish from the pan, set aside and keep warm.
Add the lemon juice and zest and parsley to the pan and combine with the butter. Divide the fish onto
four plates, spoon the parsley butter over the top and serve.
Filets de bar aux citrons caramelisés
FILLETS OF SEA BASS WITH CARAMELIZED LEMONS
If you are travelling through France, this fish can be rather confusing – in the North it is called Bar
and in the South Loup de Mer, meaning ‘the wolf of the sea’ – probably due to the sea bass’ voracity
and its habit of hunting in groups. It is widely available, as it is farmed, but can be a little pricey.
However, one farmed fish can happily feed at least two people. This recipe harmonizes the sweet
acidity of caramelized lemon with the grassiness of basil oil – I think it might be one of my favourites.
2 lemons, thinly sliced

90ml/3fl oz/ cup olive oil
1 small handful of basil
2 tsp icing sugar
4 sea bass fillets, about 150g/5½oz each, skins on
12 cherry tomatoes
basil infused olive oil, for drizzling
1 recipe quantity Sautéed Potatoes with Parsley & Garlic (see page 163), to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Put the lemon slices on a baking tray, season with salt and
pepper and drizzle 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over. Cover with the basil leaves and leave to
marinate for 5 minutes.
Heat a ridged griddle pan, or heavy-based frying pan, over a medium heat. Dust the lemon slices on
one side only with the icing sugar and place them on the pan, sugar side down. Cook for about 1–2
minutes until caramelized and golden, being careful not to burn the lemon – lower the heat, if
necessary, as the sugar will colour quickly. Transfer to a baking dish and set aside.
Season the fish with salt and pepper, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the remaining olive oil and put on
the ridged griddle pan, skin-side down. Cook for 1 minute, then rotate 90 degrees and cook for a
further 1 minute on the same side to create a crisscross pattern.
Put the fish on top of the lemon, then add the cherry tomatoes to the dish and season with salt and
pepper. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and cook the fillets in the preheated oven for 8 minutes
until the skin is slighty crispy and the flesh is white and still moist when tested with the tines of a
fork.
Serve the sea bass sprinkled with the basil oil and accompanied with sautéed potatoes with parsley
and garlic.
Bar en croûte de sel avec salade d’endives à l’orange
SEA BASS BAKED IN SEA SALT WITH CHICORY & ORANGE SALAD
This is a typical brasserie dish found all over France and can be made with either sea bass or sea
bream. When baking in a sea salt crust, it is always better to cook the whole fish rather than fillets
because it makes the flavour so much better. It is slightly less practical because you have to pick out
the bones afterwards – but what you lose in convenience you gain in flavour. The combination of the
fish with the chicory and citrus salad makes this a light, refreshing dish that zings! And don’t worry
about the salt content – it’s just a casing to bring out the flavour.
2 egg whites
juice and zest of ½ lime
zest of ½ orange
1.8kg/4lb rock sea salt
1 whole sea bass, about 1.3kg/3lb, gutted
olive oil, for drizzling
CHICORY & ORANGE SALAD

1 orange (ideally a blood orange, if available)
2 heads of yellow chicory
2 heads of purple chicory
½ small handful of dill, roughly chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
½ tbsp reduced balsamic vinegar
Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/gas 5. Put the egg whites in a large mixing bowl and whisk until
stiff peaks form when the whisk is lifted from the bowl. Add a squeeze of lime juice, the lime and
orange zests and the salt and mix by hand, or with a spatula if you prefer. Line a baking tray with
greaseproof paper and spoon one-quarter of the salt mixture over it in a layer. Place the sea bass on
the salt, then cover it completely with the remaining salt mix, pressing the salt down firmly around the
fish.
Bake the fish in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, then remove and leave to rest for 2 minutes
without touching the salt crust.
Meanwhile, prepare the salad. Grate the orange zest and set aside, then peel the orange and cut the
segments from between the membrane. Do this over a bowl to catch the juices, adding the segments to
the bowl.
Cut off the base and outer leaves of the chicory, then cut each head in half, lengthways, and remove
the core. Put in a separate bowl. Add the orange zest, dill and oil and mix until combined. Just before
serving, add the reduced balsamic vinegar, 2 tablespoons of the reserved orange juice and half the
orange segments. (Adding the acidic ingredients at the last minute is essential to keep the salad fresh
and crunchy.) Season with pepper and whisk until well combined.
To serve, break the top of the salt crust by knocking it gently with a wooden spoon. Remove the skin
from the fish (it may come off with the crust). Lift the top fillet of fish off the bone with a fork and put
it on a warm serving plate (one fillet should be enough for 2 people). Remove the bone from the fish,
revealing the second fillet underneath, and transfer it to the serving plate. Drizzle with oil and season
with salt and pepper. Serve immediately with the salad for a light, fresh and colourful dish.
Filets de daurade, ragoût de pommes de terre et oignons avec sauce vierge
FILLETS OF SEA BREAM WITH POTATO & SPRING ONION RAGOÛT &
SAUCE VIERGE
I often cook sea bream for demos at food festivals and on TV because I think it is underrated and it
isn’t a fish that people necessarily think of eating at home. This is a great pity because it has lovely
white flesh, a firm texture similar to that of sea bass and is perfect for steaming, grilling, baking and
frying – in fact, for most types of Mediterranean cooking. Sea bream is available most of the year, so
why not give it a try? you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
350g/12 oz small potatoes, such as Ratte, Charlotte, New and Jersey Royal
1 small fennel bulb
200g/7oz pancetta, cut into 5mm/¼in thin strips
4 sea bream fillets, 150g/5½oz each, pin-boned and skins on
1 tbsp olive oil
1 bunch of spring onions, peeled and finely sliced
1 recipe quantity Sauce Vierge (see page 21), kept warm, to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook
the potatoes and fennel over a medium-low heat for 15 minutes. The potatoes should still be firm as
you will sauté them later. Drain, peel the potatoes and cut into thick slices. Discard the fennel.
Bring another saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the pancetta for 30 seconds to remove the
excess salt. Refresh in cold water, then drain and set aside on kitchen towel.
Season the sea bream fillets with salt and pepper. Heat a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat
and cook the fillets, skin-side down, for 4 minutes or until the skins start to turn crispy. Transfer the
fish to an oven tray, skin side down, then place in the preheated oven and cook for a further 6 minutes
until the flesh is white and still moist.
Meanwhile, make the ragoût. Heat the olive oil in the frying pan over a medium heat, then carefully
add the prepared potatoes and pancetta. Cook for about 5 minutes until the potatoes are starting to turn
golden, then add the spring onions and sauté for a further 2 minutes. Be careful not to break up the
potatoes. Gently warm the sauce vierge while making the ragoût.
Divide the potato and spring onion ragoût onto four plates, arrange the fish on top, drizzle with the
sauce and serve.
Rouget petit bateau poêlé au thym
PAN-FRIED RED MULLET WITH THYME
If you are using large red mullet, you will need to ask your fishmonger to scale and gut them, but with
the smaller ones gutting is not necessary because they have nothing inside except the liver. If you
were a French fisherman, you would probably just scale them in the sea water and cook them on
board with a camping stove. If you are at home, it is not so different – simply pan-fry with garlic,
thyme and a squeeze of lemon. Lovely!

1 tbsp olive oil
4 whole red mullet, about 175g/6oz each, scaled and gutted by your fishmonger, or 8 fillets, skins on
25g/1oz butter
1 handful of thyme sprigs
juice of ½ lemon
1 recipe quantity Warm Crushed Potatoes with Coriander & Lime (see page 163), to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the garlic
for 3–4 minutes. This will ensure that it cooks in the same time as the fish. Drain and pat dry with
kitchen towel.
If using whole fish, heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Season
the whole fish with salt and pepper, then add them and the garlic to the pan. Cook for 2 minutes or
until the skin is a lovely golden colour. Turn the fish over, add the butter and thyme and cook for a
further 2 minutes. Transfer to a baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 3–4 minutes or until the
flesh starts to break up. Remove from the oven, drizzle the fish with the lemon juice and season with
salt and pepper.
If using fillets, heat the olive oil in large, heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Season the fish
with salt and pepper, then add to the pan, skin side down, along with the garlic, thyme and butter.
Cook for 2 minutes or until the skin is a lovely golden colour. Transfer to a baking tray and bake in
the preheated oven for 2 minutes or until the flesh starts to break up. Remove from the oven, drizzle
the fish with the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.
Serve 1 whole fish or 2 fillets per person with warm crushed potatoes.
Fish & Shellfish
The topic of fish and shellfish is almost as vast as the sea itself, and one that I have a particular love
for. It is my favourite subject and section in the kitchen. My brother Patrick and I used to go fishing in
the river when we were young. We’d pack a casse-croûte, or snack, along with worms or bread for
bait, and set off early in the morning, often to the same spot. We were fishing for perche soleil, a fish
named for its rainbow-like colour. Sometimes we were lucky, sometimes not, but we always enjoyed
the peace and quiet of a misty morning and the chance to chat. Patrick was always with me, good
company and very funny. Most of the time we came back empty-handed or with just a few gudgeon,
enough only for a small fried dish, but we were always happy to have spent some time together.
When learning my trade, I went to Brittany for a summer season. I was very young, maybe 16 or
17, and I recall the restaurant was in a small fishing village called Raguenes, right on the beach.
When I think back, I know this is where my love for fish and seafood comes from. Sometimes I went
with the owner of the restaurant to a very small island called ‘Île Verte’ to drop lobster traps. It was
a prime spot for a great catch, and one that was passed on to him by his father. A few days later, we
would go back and pull up the traps, then cook the lobster according to the family recipe, which was
lovely. I have kept that recipe well under wraps ever since and only cook it that way at home. It is
delicious.
Every morning, local fishermen would come to the door with a massive quantity of fish, the
quality of which was unbelievable. One of the most popular was sea bass, a very meaty fish with firm
flesh, which is equally delicious whether grilled, pan-fried, braised or baked. Versatile and tasty,
they are available all year round, although it’s best to avoid them in march to June when they are
spawning. Other favourites were sardines – nutritious oily fish, which we grilled or barbecued
whole, or made into bouillabaisse; and ling, which are perfect in fish pie. These days they are much
in demand and therefore overfished, so I only buy them if they are line-caught and have them
occasionally as a treat.
The sustainability of fish is a big issue these days and one that we all need to consider. In my
restaurant we try to make sure that we buy from a sustainable source. It is very important that we find
the right suppliers who will provide us with the best possible fish that is also sourced from
sustainable stocks. It is too easy to forget that most species are overfished, and therefore becoming
not only expensive but increasingly rare. So, for example, we buy hand-dived scallops, not dredged
ones, line-caught not net-caught fish, and farmed but organically reared fish, wherever possible.
Of course, I want my son’s generation to be able to enjoy eating fish not only now but in the
future. That is why it is important not only for us to protect our fish stocks, but also learn to respect
the product. In my kitchen, we try to do just that by teaching our staff how to scale, gut and cut a fish
properly and how to prepare seafood. Too often, you buy fish and shellfish that were badly damaged
by not being handled properly. But I love going to the fishmonger and seeing the eye-catching display
of fish that shows the rightful care it was given. The colourful line-up, the shine and the presence – it
is beautiful and you know you will enjoy preparing, cooking and eating the fish you buy there.
I can’t stress enough how necessary it is to buy fresh, quality produce from a good source. A fish
should be firm to the touch and its skin and eyes should look bright – dullness or discolouration
denote it is past its best. And smell it – a fresh fish has a ‘clean’, not overly ‘fishy’ odour, and sea
fish often smell slightly salty or like seaweed. Lobsters and crabs should look undamaged and feel
heavy for their size, while shellfish should have tightly closed shells.
In my restaurant I go round the tables to talk to my customers and often, when I discuss fish with
them, they say they don’t like it because they had bad experiences with it in the past. If this sounds
like you, I encourage you to try again. I have challenged and, I hope, changed many people’s negative
attitudes toward fish and shellfish over the years. If you buy fresh fish or shellfish, prepare it in the
right way and follow one of the recipes in this book, I bet you will experience great pleasure from
eating it! Before you know it you will be eating fish regularly, which is great for your health – it’s a
great source of many nutrients, especially oily fish, which contain brain-boosting omega-3 fatty acids.
At home we have fish as often as possible. I prefer it to meat anytime! Well… except perhaps for a
Sunday roast.
I’ve included a lot of fish recipes in this book, all different and all, I hope, interesting. Some I
have created myself over the years; others I’ve eaten or found elsewhere and they have inspired me to
make my own version. The recipes are drawn from all over France and show you many ways of
cooking fish and shellfish. From classic grilled Dover Sole, baked sea bream and traditional
bouillabaisse to mussels, scallops, clams, crabs, langoustines, plaice, salmon, monkfish, John Dory,
tiger prawns, anchovies and many more, they are all here – a veritable feast from the sea!
You will probably already be familiar with some of the fish I include in my recipes – for
example, the beautiful mackerel with its blue-black stripes, full of omega-3 fatty acids and packed
with goodness. It is delicious grilled, smoked, pan-roasted, whole or in fillet form. You will also
know tuna, which I really like. I adore blue-fin tuna, but as this fish is very rare I only buy it farmed;
instead I have yellow-fin or skipjack. I love tuna raw, pan-fried or marinated and eat it often as it is
available all year round. Other fish you probably will be acquainted with are haddock and hake,
which are both very popular in France. Haddock belongs to the cod family but is smaller than cod.
The flesh is white and delicate and it is usually sold as a whole fish or in fillets. Like cod, over the
years it has been overfished, so to help protect the stocks, it’s best to have it only occasionally. Hake
has lovely white flesh and is very good in gratin dishes or pan-fried with butter sauces, such as
Grenobloise.
I hope you will discover some new fish among the recipes in this book, too, such as pollack,
which is now becoming a popular alternative to or substitute for cod and haddock. Found in the
Atlantic Ocean along the coast of Brittany and as far south as the Bay of Biscay, this fish has a fine
texture and can be cooked as steaks, deep fried, baked en papillotte or prepared as salt cod. It can be
found all year round but is best avoided in January to April, when it is spawning. Black bream is
increasingly widely available and can be found in any fish market. Its soft, white, dense flesh is
succulent. I love it grilled whole or baked in sea salt. As always, line-caught is best, but it is also
widely available farmed. And how about turbot? this flatfish lives on the sandy pebbly beds of the
Atlantic Ocean. It has beautiful white, transparent flesh and is very firm to the touch. It is quite an
expensive fish, so it is great for special occasions. Very versatile, it can be poached, roasted,
steamed or pan-fried. Again, it is best to buy farmed or line-caught turbot whenever possible, or use
its cousin brill, which is less under threat.
Lastly, I’d very much like you to try red mullet. Another fish that’s very popular in France, red
mullet is possibly my favourite fish of all. It’s very delicate, has a strong ‘sea rock’ flavour, firm
flesh and is a beautiful light pink colour. It can be baked, shallow-fried or cooked en papillote, but
some of the best red mullet I’ve tasted has been simply grilled whole or in fillets. Delicious!
red gunard (rockfish), mackerel, tiger prawns, sea bass, red mullet, pollack
plaice, John Dory, sardines, black bream, langoustines

Filets de carrelet meunière aux amandes
PAN-FRIED FILLETS OF PLAICE WITH BUTTER & ALMONDS
One of the best-known and loved flatfish of all, plaice can be easily identified at the fishmonger’s by
its distinctive brown colouring and vivid orange spots. If cooked well, this tasty fish can be every bit
as good as Dover Sole, and it is a much cheaper alternative, too. This recipe helps to bring out the
natural meatiness of the fish and is one found on brasserie menus across France, perhaps not always
with almonds, but certainly à la meunière. Who can resist it?
4 plaice fillets, about 125g/4½oz each

2 tbsp plain flour
55g/2oz butter
2 tbsp olive oil
20g/¾oz/¼ cup flaked almonds
1 handful of flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, finely chopped
juice of ½ lemon
Put the fillets on a chopping board, season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with flour. Pat them
briefly with kitchen towel to remove any excess flour, so there is just a fine dusting left on the fish.
Melt half the butter with the olive oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan over a medium-low heat.
When the butter begins to foam, add the fillets and cook for 4–5 minutes on each side until they are a
lovely golden colour and firm to the touch. Put the fillets on a plate, set aside and keep warm while
you finish the butter sauce.
Add the remaining butter and the flaked almonds to the pan and cook until just golden. Throw in the
parsley, pour the lemon juice over and season with salt and pepper.
Divide the fillets onto four plates, then pour the nutty, buttery sauce over and serve.
Filets de morue en papillotte à la coriandre, ail et tomate
COD, CORIANDER, TOMATO & GARLIC PARCELS
At home I do a lot of fish en papillotte because it is quick, easy and full of flavour – a good everyday
option. ‘En papillotte’ simply means ‘cooked in parcels’, so all the flavour and goodness are locked
inside. When you open up the parcel, you release a rush of aromas that take you on a journey without
ever leaving your kitchen. You can make so many variations of this dish: ginger and lemongrass,
chilli and coriander, lemon and basil, or lime and parsley. Experiment – you won’t be disappointed.
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus making the rice
4 pieces skinless, boneless cod fillet, about 150g/5½oz each

4 tbsp olive oil
2 large tomatoes, sliced
1 small handful of coriander, leaves only, chopped
steamed or boiled rice mixed with a handful of chopped coriander leaves, to serve
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6 and bring a small saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil.
Pat the fish dry with kitchen towel, season with salt and set aside.
Blanch the garlic in the boiling water for 2 minutes, then refresh in cold water and pat dry. That way
it will cook in the same time as the fish once it is en papillotte.
Put four 46 × 25cm/18 × 10in rectangles of greaseproof paper on your work surface and drizzle them
with half the olive oil. Next, you need to arrange the ingredients on one half of the paper, so that you
will be able to fold the other half over them afterwards. Start with a few slices of tomato on each
piece of paper and divide half the coriander over them, then season with salt and pepper. Put the
pieces of cod fillet on top of the tomatoes, then add the blanched garlic and the rest of the coriander
and drizzle with the remaining olive oil. Fold the paper over the filling and then fold along the edges
to seal securely. Make sure the parcels are well sealed so that none of the liquid is lost. Put the
parcels on a baking tray and bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 2
minutes before opening.
Now comes the rush of aromas – open each parcel, taking care not to lose any of the juices, and serve
with coriander-scented rice. Squeeze the tender garlic out of its skin for an extra delicious flavour.
CHEF’S TIP: If sustainable cod is not available, replace with pollack fillets.
Salade niçoise
NIÇOISE SALAD
When a dish has olives in it, more often than not it comes from the South of France. I love olives, so it
follows that I love the food from the south, and I couldn’t resist including this recipe. It’s a great
classic from Nice and a firm favourite everywhere. As an alternative, for something a little different,
it can also be made with artichokes and broad beans. Either way, it’s full of exhilarating fresh
flavours and vibrant colour.
1 red pepper
320g/11¼oz small potatoes such as Ratte, Charlotte, New and Jersey Royal
200g/7oz green beans, trimmed
4 eggs or 8 quail eggs
4 tomatoes, cut into wedges
1 white or red onion, sliced into fine rings
80g/2¾oz/scant cup black pitted olives, or green if preferred
100g/3½oz anchovies in oil, drained
250g/9oz fresh tuna steaks (from a sustainable source)
DRESSING
1 large shallot, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
90ml/3fl oz/ cup olive oil, plus extra for frying
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6, then cook the whole pepper for 30 minutes. Remove from the
oven and place in a bowl. Cover with cling film and leave to cool.
Bring three saucepans of salted water to the boil. In one pan, cook the potatoes for 15–20 minutes
until tender and you can easily push a sharp knife through them. Drain and set aside until cool enough
to handle.
Meanwhile, cook the green beans for 10 minutes in the second pan, then refresh under cold running
water so they keep their form and colour. In the third pan, hardboil the eggs for 8 minutes or quail
eggs for 4 minutes, then drain and leave to cool.
To make the dressing, whisk the shallot, garlic, oil and vinegar together in a small bowl. Season with
salt and pepper and set aside.
Peel, deseed and slice the pepper lengthways. Peel the potatoes and cut them into thick slices and
peel the eggs and cut into quarters (if using quail eggs, cut them in half only). Arrange the peppers,
tomatoes, onion and the eggs on a large, deep plate and top with the olives and anchovies.
Season the tuna with salt and pepper. Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add a little olive
oil, then add the tuna and cook for 1–2 minutes on each side until browned on the outside but still rare
in the middle. Put the tuna on top of the salad, pour the dressing over and serve immediately.
Pavé de lotte rôtie, ragoût de moules et palourdes au safran
ROAST MONKFISH FILLET WITH SAFFRON-SCENTED MUSSEL &
CLAM RAGOÛT
Saffron is one of the most expensive and treasured spices in the world. It takes around 4,300 crocus
flowers to produce just 28g (1oz) of saffron, and the thread-like stigmas are hand-picked. Fortunately,
its intensity, flavour and colour mean that the smallest amount brings an incredible aroma and flavour
to this dish.
Preparation time 35 minutes, plus cooking the rice and asparagus
1 monkfish fillet, about 400g/14oz, skinless and boneless

400g/14oz fresh mussels
200g/7oz fresh clams or cockles
2 tbsp olive oil
55g/2oz butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
a pinch of saffron threads
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup double cream, half of it whipped
zest of 1 lime
1 small handful of chives, roughly chopped
steamed rice, to serve
cooked asparagus, to serve
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6. Wrap the monkfish in a clean tea towel and set aside. This
will absorb excess liquid and make it easier to roast.
Remove and discard the beards from the mussels and wash them and the clams in a bowl under
running cold water, scrubbing well to remove all traces of grit. Discard any that float or any open
ones that do not close when tapped. Set aside.
Put half the oil and butter in an ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat. When the butter begins to
foam, add the monkfish and cook for 4–5 minutes, turning continuously, until it has a lovely golden
colour all over. Transfer to the preheated oven and roast for 8 minutes until firm to the touch. Remove
from the oven, transfer to a clean dish, cover with kitchen foil and set aside.
Put the remaining oil and butter in a cast iron or heavy-based pan over a medium heat. When the
butter is foaming, add the shallot and cook for 1 minute, stirring, then add the mussels, cockles and
saffron. Cover and cook for 4–5 minutes or until the shellfish open. Discard any mussels or cockles
that remain closed.
Pour the unwhipped cream into the pan with the shellfish and cook, uncovered, over a medium to high
heat, for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, use a slotted spoon to take the shellfish out of the pan and
put them in a large bowl, then cover and set aside. Return the pan with the cooking liquid to a medium
heat and cook for 4–5 minutes until reduced by half. Stir in the whipped cream and cook for a further
2–3 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lime zest, chives and any juices that have collected from
the monkfish and season with salt and pepper. You should now have about 100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½
cup sauce.
Slice the monkfish into 4 pieces and either divide onto four plates with the ragoût and a few
spoonfuls of the sauce spooned over it or place in a casserole dish to serve at the table with steamed
rice and asparagus.
Bouillabaisse
BOUILLABAISSE
Bouillabaisse, an elaborate fish soup from Marseilles in the south of France, is the very essence of
the sea. Originally the food of poor fishermen, who put in it whatever they hadn’t been able to sell
that day, it has evolved into a voluptuous mix of succulent fish and shellfish, made enticing with
herbs, spices and vegetables.
4 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped
1 leek, finely sliced and rinsed
1 fennel bulb, chopped
3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed with the flat edge of a knife or your hand
1 thyme sprig
a large pinch of saffron threads
1.8kg/4lb fish and shellfish such as follows:
4 large langoustines or tiger prawns, crushed with a rolling pin
2 rascasse, grey mullet or black bream, scaled, gutted and cut into portions
2 John Dory or lemon sole, scaled, gutted and cut into portions
4 slices of hake, pollack, haddock or ling
4 small red mullet or red bream, scaled and gutted
4 tbsp white wine

2 tbsp aniseed-flavoured spirit, such as Pastis or Pernod
1 handful of flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, roughly chopped
crusty farmhouse bread, to serve
Heat a little of the oil in a large, heavy-based or cast iron casserole pan over a medium heat and cook
the onion, leek and fennel for 4–5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the tomatoes, tomato purée,
garlic, thyme and saffron and cook for a further 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the langoustines
and stir until they are a deep orange colour. Add the wine and spirit and stir to deglaze. Add 1l/35fl
oz/4 cups water and cook for a good 30 minutes, by which time the soup will already have a great
flavour and rich colour. Strain and press the mixture through a colander into a clean saucepan that is
large enough to hold all the fish you are about to add. Discard anything that remains of the
langoustines.
Return the soup to a medium heat, add all the fish, except the red mullet, and cook for 7–8 minutes.
Add the red mullet and cook for a further 6 minutes, then season with salt and pepper. Remove from
the heat, stir in the parsley and serve hot with crusty farmhouse bread.
CHEF’S TIPS: Ask your fishmonger to prepare all the fish for you – don’t be shy, that is what he
or she is there for. Get him or her to scale, debone and gut whatever you like, and to cut the big
fish into portions – except for the red mullet and the langoustines, which should be kept whole.
If you want to make it a hearty and more complete meal, add 500g/1lb 2oz peeled potatoes, cut
into large cubes, to the fish bouillon when you add the first batch of fish – they will soak up all the
goodness too.
Noix de Saint-Jacques au beurre de curry et herbes
SCALLOPS WITH CURRY & HERB BUTTER
Scallops are sublime – I don’t think I know anyone who doesn’t like them. If you live near a harbour
and can get hold of hand-dived, day-boat scallops, then snap them up! When scallops are dredged,
they are usually full of sand or mud, which has an enormous effect on their flavour, but if they are
hand-dived you won’t have that problem. You can do this recipe by simply roasting the scallops, but
they are much tastier cooked in the shell – and it is a fun way to serve it, too.
16 large scallops in their shells, trimmed by your fishmonger

1 tsp mild curry powder
2 small garlic cloves, finely chopped
1½ handfuls of chervil, finely chopped
1½ handfuls of chives, finely chopped
juice of 1 lemon
cooked asparagus, to serve (optional)
baguette, to serve (optional)
Preheat the grill to medium.
Season the scallops with salt and pepper and a light dusting of curry powder, then put them on a
baking tray.
Put the garlic, chervil, chives and butter in a bowl and mix together. Divide the mixture between the
scallops, then place under the grill and cook for 5–6 minutes or until the butter is golden brown.
Squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over each scallop.
Serve immediately. Delicious with asparagus and fresh baguette.

Gambas sautées au beurre d’ail et piment
SAUTÉED TIGER PRAWNS WITH CHILLI & GARLIC BUTTER
Whether grilled, sautéed, pan-roasted or cooked in a bouillon, tiger prawns are quick, easy and
delicious. In brasseries in France, they are taken fresh from the tank and sautéed with sea salt. When
cooking at home, you will need to buy them shelled from your fishmonger (make sure they’re
deveined). Try to avoid frozen prawns if you can – as always with seafood, it is not worth
compromising on the freshness.
8 large or 24 small raw tiger prawns, shelled and deveined

2 tbsp olive oil
85g/3oz butter
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, unpeeled and crushed with the flat edge of a knife or your hand and finely chopped
1 small handful of flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, finely chopped
juice and zest of 1 lime
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Wash the prawns and dry them on kitchen towel. Warm the oil and 30g/ 1oz of the butter in a heavy-
based frying pan over a medium heat. When the butter is foaming, throw in the prawns and sauté for 4
minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside.
Add the remaining butter, chilli, garlic and parsley to the frying pan. When the butter is foaming, put
the prawns back in the pan and toss for 1–2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, add a few
drops of lime juice and sprinkle with the freshly grated lime zest, then serve immediately. Simple and
delicious.
Moules marinières à la citronnelle et au piment
MOULES MARINIÈRES WITH LEMONGRASS & CHILLI
One of the great classics of French cuisine – my version is with a hint of the east, something I
developed a taste for while working in Singapore. One very important thing with mussels is quality
and freshness. A good way to see if you have any bad ones is to wash them in a bowl under running
cold water, and if any float to the surface, get rid of them. It is a sign that they are not fresh. As for the
rest, remove the beards and wash them until there is no grit on the bottom of the bowl.
2kg/4lb 8oz fresh mussels

1 tbsp olive oil
30g/1oz butter
30g/1oz ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
1 red chilli, deseeded and cut into thick slices
2 lemongrass stalks, halved and bruised
4 tbsp coconut milk
4 tbsp whipped cream
1 handful of coriander, leaves only, chopped
Remove and discard the beards from the mussels and wash them in a bowl under cold running water,
scrubbing to remove all traces of grit. Discard any that float or any open ones that don’t close when
tapped.
Heat the oil and butter in a large saucepan over a low heat. When the butter begins to foam, add the
shallot, ginger, chilli and lemongrass and cook for 2 minutes. Add the mussels and coconut milk and
cover with a lid. Cook for 4 minutes or until the mussels open. Discard any that remain closed.
Remove from the heat and add the whipped cream and coriander and season with salt and pepper.
Serve immediately, in a large bowl placed in the middle of the table for everyone to share.
Les Plats Végétariens
VEGETARIAN DISHES
The fresh produce in French markets in summer is inspiring. The abundance of fruit and
vegetables the warm weather brings makes creating vegetarian recipes easy. You can spread
tomatoes in a light pastry case and cover them with goat’s cheese for a crunchy tomato tart, or
layer vegetables in a baking dish with garlic and herbs and create a Provençal Vegetable
Gratin. There are risottos, crêpes, vegetable tagines and, of course, the world famous
ratatouille. France often gets a bad press when it comes to vegetarian food, but this is changing
and it is now often found on menus in brasseries.
Tarte à la tomate et au fromage de chèvre
TOMATO TART WITH GOAT’S CHEESE
This colourful Mediterranean dish is ideal for those outdoor summer lunches. Make sure you choose a
goat’s cheese you love. One I really enjoy is Sainte-Maure de Touraine, a chèvre from the Loire
region – it is well-balanced, smooth, slightly salty and has a lovely, nutty aroma. Tomatoes are a
personal thing, too – choose the variety that really zings for you. For the topping you can use your
own home-made, oven-dried tomatoes, or, if you are short on time, sun-dried tomatoes from a jar.
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus making the tomatoes and chilling
butter, for greasing

250g/9oz ready-made puff pastry
plain flour, for dusting
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar, plus extra to serve
12 Oven-dried Tomatoes (see page 41) or 12 sun-dried tomatoes from a jar, drained
85g/3oz goat’s cheese, sliced
100g/3½oz rocket leaves, to serve
2 tbsp olive oil, to serve
TOMATO BASE
4 tbsp olive oil
½ onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 large tomato, chopped
1 thyme sprig
To make the tomato base, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a medium saucepan over a medium
heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, partially covered, for 4–5 minutes, stirring occasionally,
until softened. Add the tomato, thyme and the remaining olive oil, then reduce the heat to low and
simmer for 35–40 minutes, stirring often to avoid browning or burning the tomato. If the miære gets
too dry, add a few tablespoons of water. Stir in the reduced balsamic vinegar and season with salt
and pepper.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4 and grease a 20cm/ 8in tart tin with butter. Roll
out the pastry on a lightly floured surface until it is about 3mm/ in thick and 25cm/10in in diameter.
Line the tin with the pastry, taking care not to stretch it. Press down gently to push out any bubbles and
roll the rolling pin along the top edge of the tin to trim off the excess pastry. Prick the base with a fork
and chill for 25–30 minutes. This will prevent the pastry from shrinking during cooking.
Place the tart tin on a baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes or until golden.
Remove from the oven and do not turn the oven off. Brush the pastry with the balsamic vinegar and
then return it to the oven for a further 3 minutes. The vinegar will seal the top of the pastry and ensure
that your tart is crunchy. Be careful not to overcook it or it will become dry and bitter.
To assemble the tart, remove the thyme sprig from the tomato base and spread the base over the
pastry. Arrange the Oven-dried Tomatoes and goat’s cheese on top and season with salt and pepper.
Place the tart in the oven and bake for 3–4 minutes until the cheese starts to melt, but don’t allow it to
melt completely. If you want, you can flash it for 2 minutes under a grill, preheated to high, to give it a
lovely colour.
Serve sprinkled with rocket and drizzled with oil and balsamic vinegar. Voilà – a gorgeous, light and
colourful lunch.
Quiche au Roquefort, brocolis et oignon
ROQUEFORT, BROCCOLI & ONION QUICHE
Rich, spicy, blue-veined Roquefort is thought to be one of the greatest blue cheeses in the world, and
the people of Roquefort protect it fiercely. They have been making it for thousands of years, since the
time of ancient Rome, in fact. It proved so popular that imitations of it started to spring up all over the
place until, in the 1960s, the Tribunal de Grande Instance decreed that, although similar cheeses
could be made in many regions of France, it was only a true Roquefort if it had been ripened in the
natural caves of Mont Combalou in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon.
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus making the pastry and chilling
15g/½oz butter, plus extra for greasing

250g/9oz Savoury Short Pastry (see page 23) or ready-made shortcrust pastry
2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
175g/6oz broccoli, cut into small florets
2 eggs
210ml/7½fl oz/1 cup double cream
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
100g/3½oz Roquefort cheese or other blue cheese of choice, crumbled
salad, to serve
Grease a 20cm/8in tart tin with butter. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface until it is about
3mm/ in thick and 25cm/10in in diameter. Line the tin with the pastry, taking care not to stretch it.
Press down gently to push out any bubbles and roll the rolling pin along the edge of the tin to trim off
the excess pastry. Prick the base with a fork and chill for 25–30 minutes.This will prevent the pastry
from shrinking during cooking.
Meanwhile, make the filling. Heat the butter and oil in a medium frying pan over a medium heat and
cook the onion for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally and making sure they don’t brown. Set aside.
Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil and blanch the broccoli for 5 minutes until al dente, then
refresh in ice-cold water. Drain, pat dry with a clean tea towel and set aside.
Put the eggs, cream and nutmeg in a bowl and season with salt and pepper, then whisk to combine and
set aside.
Preheat the oven to 170°C/325°F/gas 3. When the oven is hot, line the pastry case with baking
parchment and fill with baking beans. Bake in the preheated oven for 12 minutes, then remove from
the oven, discard the beans and parchment and turn the oven up to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.
To assemble the quiche, spread the onions over the pastry case. Sprinkle the Roquefort on top of the
onion, then the broccoli. Pour in the egg mixture and bake for 35 minutes. To check for doneness, do
the knife test – it should come out dry and warm. If it isn’t ready, return the quiche to the oven for
another 5 minutes and test again. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.
Remove the quiche from the tin and serve with the salad of your choice. Delicious warm or cold.
Omelette aux girolles et aux herbes
CHANTERELLE MUSHROOM & HERB OMELETTE
Chanterelle mushrooms are really special. They have a lovely mild flavour and can be picked
between late autumn and winter. They generally grow under hardwood and softwood trees, especially
in older, moss-rich forests. A word of caution – if you decide to go foraging for them, take someone
with you who knows what they are doing, or you might end up feeling a bit more special than you
hoped, or very ill. If you are in any doubt at all, please don’t eat them – you can buy beautiful
chanterelles from most delicatessens.
Preparation time 15 minutes, plus 30 minutes marinating and making the salad
200g/7oz chanterelle or brown mushrooms, trimmed

2 tbsp olive oil
a few drops of lemon juice
15g/½oz butter
1 handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
8 eggs, beaten
green salad, to serve (optional)
Wash the mushrooms very carefully as they are fragile and break easily. Pat dry with kitchen towel. If
the chanterelles are large, just cut them in half, but ideally use small, whole ones. Mix the oil and
lemon juice together in a bowl, add the mushrooms and leave to marinate for 30 minutes.
Warm the butter in a large, non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Drain the mushrooms and sauté
them for 3–4 minutes or until they are a nice golden brown, then throw in the parsley and garlic and
season with salt and pepper.
Add the eggs to the pan and cook the omelette for 3–4 minutes until it still has a slightly runny
consistency in the centre. Tilt the pan slightly, and, with the help of a wooden spoon, carefully fold
the edge of the omelette over, then roll it up. If you prefer your omelette well done, flip it over using a
wooden spatula and cook for a further 3–4 minutes until pale golden.
Serve the omelette with a green salad, if liked, for a lovely, simple meal.
Crêpes aux champignons et estragon
CRÊPES WITH MUSHROOMS & TARRAGON
In France, chanterelles are never on the ground for long – people soon snap them up. But in Britain,
people are more nervous about mushrooms being poisonous, so they often perish uneaten. I remember
walking through the estate of Castle Kennedy in Scotland with my father, the path was lined with
ancient trees and their moisture gave the ground that springy, mossy feeling. Suddenly my father
stopped and rushed over to the other side of the path, guarding something fiercely with his body while
smiling politely at passers-by, who walked on nervously. He then got down on his knees, took out his
penknife and called me over. There on the ground were dozens of chanterelles, their yellow caps a
little battered but nonetheless good enough to eat. We cut them, took them home and made an
incredible omelette. This dish, along with my Chanterelle Mushroom & Herb Omelette (page 135)
and Wild Mushroom & Herb Risotto (page 142), are all close to my heart.
Preparation time 15 minutes, plus making the crêpes and salad
1 tbsp olive oil

250g/9oz button or wild mushrooms, sliced
15g/½oz butter
1 handful of tarragon, chopped
1 recipe quantity Basic Crêpes, made without sugar (see page 25)
tomato, onion and flat-leaf parsley salad, or rocket salad, to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Warm the oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat
and sauté the mushrooms for 3–4 minutes or until the juices they release have reduced to a syrup. Add
the butter and continue to cook for 2–3 minutes or until they are a lovely golden colour. Throw in the
tarragon and season with salt and pepper.
Lay the crêpes on a baking tray, divide the mushroom mixture over them and roll them up like a wrap.
Bake for 2–3 minutes just to warm through. Serve warm with salad.
Les Champignons Sauvages
Wild Mushrooms
As I write this, we are well into autumn, my favourite season. Where I lived in Franche-Comté, there
are plenty of forests and I used to go there almost on a daily basis when I was growing up – I
particularly loved the autumn when the trees changed colour. My father hunted and often took me with
him, although not necessarily to shoot. In fact, we would chat or go on a long walk with our dogs
while he told me about the deer. He knew all their habits and could spot them from a few hundred
yards – well before I could. He was such a good observer of nature. He had a lot of patience,
sometimes waiting for hours at a time just to see the deer. I wasn’t surprised when, in his early fifties,
my father stopped hunting, but he still took the dogs into the forest for hours. Now, however, he
collected mushrooms – and our forest was full of them.
Mushroom pickers are secretive, and we only tell our family or trusted friends where to find the
best sources. We worry about people going to the prime location behind our backs, and possibly
giving it away to others, which could damage the area. Despite such efforts to keep mushroom
locations secret, many people now go foraging. As a result, in France there are now restrictions on
how many mushrooms you can pick and, in some areas, guards patrol to check that people are
respecting the forest.
Quite often, I used to go foraging on my own with my dogs. One day just by getting lost on the
wrong path, I found I had stepped on a few trompettes de la mort, or horn of plenty mushrooms.
Suddenly, I looked around and there was a big patch of them in front of me. Generally picked from
summer to autumn, trompettes de la mort are common woodland mushrooms resembling black
funnels. They are slightly tough in texture and often chopped and added to a sauce or mixed with other
mushrooms. They can also be dried. I like these mushrooms for their very earthy flavour.
Not far away from the Trompettes de la Mort, I also discovered a patch of girolle mushrooms
(known, too, as chanterelles). Funnel-shaped, girolles are found mainly in hardwood and coniferous
forests, especially in older, moss-rich forests, and are usually picked between June and October.
They are an orange-yellow colour with a delicate stalk. With their nutty flavour, they are beautiful
when pan-fried with herbs and served with pasta. Needless to say, I made sure I marked the spots
where these mushroms grew and I returned there often to pick them.
There is nothing more satisfying than collecting mushrooms, bringing them home and cooking
them. I particularly like cèpes (called porcini in Italian) with their large, bulbous stalks. They are
best eaten young, and are delicious cooked in omelettes or velouté sauces. In France, the small ones
of the highest quality are known as bouchons. There are plenty of cèpes in Britain – for example, in
the New Forest – but they can also be found dried or in jars in oil.
There are also plenty of Scottish girolles, which are 2.5cm/1in tall, a bright yellow-orange colour
and smell like apricots. When we went foraging, Papa and I were on our knees, picking very carefully
so that the following year’s crop would not be compromised. Papa always carried his knife (a
hunter’s habit, I suppose) folded in his back pocket, along with a plastic bag. I remember holding the
girolles with bits of moss and leaves still clinging to them, bringing them to my nose and slowly
breathing in their incredible scent of earth, apricots, dry leaf, forest and moist soil. Off we went home
to prepare them and make the most gorgeous omelette ever. Those are precious memories – it was a
brilliant time!
There are hundreds of common mushroom varieties apart from those I’ve already mentioned, such
as button and brown mushrooms, but some of the tastiest include field mushrooms, morilles (morels),
oyster mushrooms and blewits. Field mushrooms are found in summer and autumn in rich, open,
manured grasslands grazed by horses or cows, and are white to pinkish grey with a white stem. These
were my Maman’s favourite and we used to get up at dawn to collect them. They are delicious
sautéed with butter and herbs. Found in springtime, morels are very tasty. Their conical shape has a
delightful honeycomb pattern and they have a delicate scent. I like them best cooked with a touch of
cream and chopped chives. You can find dried morels in supermarkets and delicatessens. Oyster
mushrooms prefer cold weather and are therefore found in late autumn and winter. They have a very
mild flavour and are delicious fricasséed or sautéed with garlic or finished with cream on a steak.
And blewits, which are a beautiful lilac colour, are found in late autumn in pine forests and near
hedgerows. They go very well with strongly flavoured vegetables, such as onions.
When you go foraging you need to get up as early as possible and just get out and get looking! It is
such a satisfying moment when you find a patch of wild mushrooms. And who knows, perhaps you
will see a deer or two or other wild creatures on the way, or simply enjoy the colours of the forest
and the crunching of the leaves under your feet. However, collecting and eating the wrong mushrooms
can make you very sick, or even kill you, so before you start, you must learn about them. At first, go
foraging with someone who knows what is edible and what is not. Once you have some experience,
you can go on your own, but you should still take a good field guide with you, and always double-
check that you’ve picked an edible variety. The golden rule is: if you’re not sure, don’t eat it.
Prepare wild mushrooms carefully and wash them well. Slugs, snails and other unwanted inhabitants
love them, too!
We have local foragers who supply us at The Vineyard, so it’s almost as if we had our own patch.
Mushrooms feature in my menu in the late summer, autumn and winter on a regular basis, and they’re
very popular. I prepare them in many different ways, such as in risottos, fricassées and purées;
sautéed with herbs in omelettes and folded into soufflés. And of course, they feature in our all-truffle
menu, which even includes an ice cream made with the most expensive and highly esteemed of all
mushrooms – the black Périgord truffle. This delicacy matures after the first frost and is at its best
after Christmas. Truffles are subterranean fungi, which live in symbiosis with certain trees, mainly the
oak, but also the chestnut, hazel and beech tree. You can now buy them in tins or jars, peeled or
scrubbed, ripe, whole or chopped. You can also freeze them. There are several ways of cooking them
and they can also be eaten raw if finely sliced.
I don’t think I know a chef who doesn’t like mushrooms or cooking with them. They are so
versatile and go well with many other ingredients, such as fish, shellfish, poultry and meat. Wild
game with wild mushrooms is an especially good match – they are made for each other. Mushrooms
are also a great option for vegetarians.
Wild mushrooms are readily available during their seasons, and if you don’t pick them yourself
you can find them in good supermarkets. They are usually also available dried in delicatessens and
supermarkets all year round. The flavour, texture and scent of wild mushrooms are very distinct;
cultivated mushrooms are more widely available but are no match for the unique appeal of their wild
cousins!
oyster mushrooms, shiitake mushrooms, pieds bleus (blewits), horn of plenty, girolles, yellow chanterelles
cèpes, morilles (morels), brown button mushrooms, button mushrooms

Risotto aux champignons des bois
WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO
For this dish, I prefer the bouchon mushroom. These are small wild mushrooms, so called because
they look like the cork of a champagne bottle. You can buy them dried from a deli, but porcini
mushrooms will also do fine if you can’t find bouchons. The mistake people often make with a risotto
is to think you can leave it – you can’t, not even for a minute – and this recipe is no different!
Preparation time 15 minutes, plus 45 minutes soaking and making the stock
150g/5½oz fresh bouchon, shiitake or porcini mushrooms, or 20g/¾ oz dried porcini mushrooms
90g/3¼in oz butter
1 large shallot or small onion, very finely chopped
90ml/3fl oz/ cup dry white wine
1l/35fl oz/4 cups Vegetable Stock (see page 19)
300g/10½oz/heaped 1 cup risotto rice, such as arborio or carnaroli
1 tbsp crème fraîche
1½ tbsp chopped chives
Parmesan cheese, to serve
If using fresh mushrooms, wash them very carefully as they are fragile and break easily. Then trim the
foot and cut them lengthways. If using dried mushrooms, soak them in warm water for 45 minutes,
then rinse and pat dry with kitchen towel.
Heat half the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat, add half the shallot and the mushrooms and
sauté for 2 minutes until golden. Add a few tablespoons of the wine – it will make a great splashing
sound – and let it evaporate a little. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
Now make the risotto. Bring the stock to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and keep it at a simmer.
Melt the remaining butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a low heat and add the remaining
shallot. Cook for 2–3 minutes or until softened but not browned, then add the rice and stir. Add the
remaining wine and let it evaporate to remove the acidity. Add one ladleful of the stock and stir
continuously until it is absorbed. Repeat until the rice is cooked, about 16–18 minutes. The grains
should be plump but still firm and not too wet (having said that, risotto is a personal thing – I like
mine quite loose and light). At the last minute, add the crème fraîche and finish by folding in the
mushrooms and chives and seasoning with salt and pepper.
Serve immediately. Have a hunk of Parmesan cheese and a grater ready at the table in case your
guests want to sprinkle some on top. Light and luscious!
Gratin d’artichauts et poivrons rouges au fromage de chèvre
ARTICHOKE & RED PEPPER GRATIN WITH GOAT’S CHEESE
If you think of artichokes, it is probably the green ones that spring to mind, but I also like to cook with
purple artichokes, which are more often found in Provence. Because they are harder to find, they are
so often overlooked, which is a pity. They are smaller and sweeter and, coupled with red peppers,
bring vibrant colour to your dish. Finish the gratin with goat’s cheese for a scrumptious seasonal
delight.
juice of 1 lemon
2 large red peppers
18 small purple artichokes or 310g/11oz drained preserved artichoke hearts
4 tbsp olive oil
2 thyme sprigs
4 tbsp dry white wine
1 tsp chopped rosemary, leaves only, to serve
GOAT’S CHEESE SAUCE

400ml/14fl oz/scant 1 cups double cream
125g/4½oz mild goat’s cheese, crumbled
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6 . Fill a large bowl with water and mix in the lemon juice.
Put the whole peppers on a baking sheet and roast for 40 minutes until the skins are charred and
wrinkled. Transfer to a bowl, cover with cling film and set aside for 10 minutes or until the skins
have loosened and the peppers are cool enough to handle. Using your fingers, peel off and discard the
charred skin from the peppers, then deseed and cut the flesh into thick slices.
Meanwhile, if using fresh artichokes, remove the outer leaves and cut the tops off. Trim and peel the
stalks. Cut in half lengthways and remove and discard the choke, using a small spoon. Put them
immediately in the lemon water to prevent them from discolouring. If you are using preserved
artichokes, just drain them thoroughly to get rid of all the oil.
Heat the oil in a medium-sized, heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat and add the thyme, garlic
and artichokes. Sauté for 3–4 minutes or until the artichokes are a light golden colour. Add the wine
and stir to deglaze, then let it reduce by a third. Season with salt and pepper, reduce the heat to low
and simmer, partially covered, for 10 minutes. The artichokes should still be firm at this point; they
will finish cooking in the gratin. Remove and discard the thyme and garlic, then add the peppers and
put the mixture in a baking dish. Set aside.
To make the goat’s cheese sauce, bring the cream to the boil in a small saucepan over a medium heat,
then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the goat’s cheese and stir until it melts.
Season with salt and pepper, then pour the sauce over the artichokes. Place in the preheated oven and
bake for 15–18 minutes until the top is pale golden. Serve hot, sprinkled with rosemary.
Tarte aux artichauts, oignons et thym
ARTICHOKE, ONION & THYME TART
Preparation time 1 hour, plus making the pastry and chilling
20g/¾oz butter, plus extra for greasing and if using fresh artichokes
1 large garlic clove, peeled
225g/8oz Savoury Short Pastry (see page 23) or ready-made shortcrust pastry
juice of 1 lemon
12 fresh baby artichokes or 225g/8oz drained preserved artichoke hearts
2 tbsp olive oil, plus 1 tbsp if using fresh artichokes
3 eggs
½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
2 thyme sprigs
3 onions, finely chopped
30g/1oz Parmesan cheese, grated
Grease four individual 12cm/4½in tartlet tins, or one 20cm/8in round tart tin, with butter. Rub with
the garlic clove, then reserve the garlic. Divide the pastry into four balls and roll each ball out on a
lightly floured surface until it is about 4mm/1 8in thick and 15cm/6in in diameter. (If baking one
large tart, roll out the whole quantity of pastry until it is about 4mm/ in thick and 25cm/10in in
diameter.) Line the tartlet tins with the pastry, taking care not to stretch it. Press down gently to push
out any bubbles and roll the rolling pin over the top edge of the tins to trim off the excess pastry. Prick
the bases all over with a fork and chill for 25–30 minutes. This will prevent the pastry from shrinking
during cooking.
Preheat the oven to 170°C/325°F/gas 3. If you are using fresh artichokes, now is the time to prepare
them. First fill a large bowl with water and mix in the lemon juice. Remove the outer leaves from the
artichokes and cut the tops off. Trim and peel the stalks. Cut in half lengthways and remove the choke,
using a small spoon, and put them immediately in the lemon water to prevent them from discolouring.
Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil and about 1 teaspoon of butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Drain
the artichokes, then sauté for 4–5 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the heat and set aside. If
using preserved artichokes, just drain them thoroughly to remove as much of the oil as possible. Set
aside.
Put the eggs, cream and nutmeg in a bowl and season with salt and pepper, then whisk to combine. Set
aside.
Line the pastry case with a piece of baking parchment and fill with baking beans. Bake for 12
minutes. Remove from the oven, discard the beans and parchment and turn the oven up to
180°C/350°F/gas 4.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining butter and oil in a medium frying pan over a medium heat and cook the
thyme, reserved garlic and onions gently for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally and making sure that the
onions don’t brown. Discard the thyme.
To assemble the tart, spread the onion mixture over the pastry case, add the artichokes and then pour
in the egg mixture. Bake in the preheated oven for 12–15 minutes (20–25 minutes for a large tart) until
light golden and slightly trembling. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese, raise the oven temperature to
220°C/425°F/gas 7 and bake for a further 5 minutes to give it some colour. Ideally serve either hot or
warm.
Tian de légumes à la Provençale
PROVENÇAL VEGETABLE GRATIN
This dish takes time but it tastes like heaven. Similar to ratatouille, but baked in layers in a baking
dish and finished with Parmesan cheese and rosemary, it becomes a tangy, luxuriant meal. If you can
get hold of both green and yellow courgettes and red and yellow peppers, the dish will be beautifully
colourful. There are claims that rosemary, besides being powerfully aromatic and delicious,
improves the memory and promotes beauty and long life – I’d better get cooking!
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus making the aubergine caviar
2 large yellow courgettes, cut into long 5mm/¼in-thick slices

4 rosemary sprigs
2 large red peppers
1 recipe quantity Aubergine Caviar (see page 41), made with only 4 garlic cloves
freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for sprinkling
TOMATO BASE
4 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
6 tomatoes, chopped
1 tsp thyme leaves
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6. Combine the courgette slices, oil and rosemary in a bowl and
season with salt and pepper, then cover and set aside to marinate.
Meanwhile, put the whole peppers on a baking sheet and roast for 40 minutes until the skins are
charred and wrinkled. Transfer to a bowl, cover with cling film and set aside for 10 minutes or until
the skins have loosened and the peppers are cool enough to handle. Using your fingers, peel and
discard the charred skin from the peppers, then deseed and cut the flesh into long strips.
While the peppers are roasting, make the tomato base. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a medium
saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, partially covered, for 4–5 minutes,
stirring occasionally, until softened. Add the tomatoes, thyme and the remaining oil, then reduce the
heat to low and simmer for 35–40 minutes, stirring often to avoid burning the tomato. If the mixture
gets too dry, add a few tablespoons of water. Add the reduced balsamic vinegar and season with salt
and pepper.
Heat a ridged griddle pan, or heavy-based frying pan, over a medium heat. Drain the courgettes,
giving them a shake to get rid of the excess oil, and reserve the rosemary. Griddle the courgettes for 1
minute on each side or until they have char-grilled marks. This will give them a lovely colour and
flavour.
Now you are going to put it all together. Put half the courgette slices in a single layer in a baking dish.
Spread half the aubergine caviar over, then cover with half the pepper strips and half the tomato base.
Repeat the layers with the remaining ingredients. Chop the rosemary, sprinkle it over the gratin and
bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and turn on the grill to hot. Sprinkle
the gratin with Parmesan and flash under the grill for 2–3 minutes until golden brown, then serve.
Ratatouille à la Provençale
RATATOUILLE PROVENÇALE
I hope you’ve seen the film of the same name, not just because it’s very funny but also because it is
about a passion for great food that’s full of flavour – it shows that its namesake dish can satisfy all
tastes, from the discerning gourmet to the lover of good home cooking. The word ratatouille comes
from touiller, which means ‘to stir round or mix’, and the recipe originates from Nice in the South of
France. For me, this dish not only represents but also encompasses the splendour of the South: full of
sunshine, colour and the scent of the Mediterranean.
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus cooking the rice and pasta
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup olive oil

1 aubergine, peeled and cut into large cubes
1 onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 red pepper, deseeded and sliced
1 green pepper, deseeded and sliced
1 large courgette or 2 small courgettes, cubed
400g/14oz tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and cut into large cubes
a pinch of caster sugar
1 bouquet garni made with 1 small handful of flat-leaf parsley sprigs and 1 sprig of thyme, tied together with kitchen string
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper (optional)
a small handful of basil leaves, to serve
rice or pasta, to serve
In a large cast iron pan, heat the oil over a medium heat. Add the aubergine and cook for 4–5 minutes
until softened but not coloured. Add the onion, garlic and peppers and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring
occasionally, then stir in the courgette, tomatoes and sugar. Add the bouquet garni and simmer gently,
partially covered, over a low to medium heat, for 1½–2 hours, stirring occasionally. If, when you take
the lid off the ratatouille, it is too wet due to condensation, continue cooking it gently with the lid off,
until you get the texture and consistency you want.
When ready, check the seasoning and add some salt and pepper, if necessary. Sprinkle with basil and
serve with rice or pasta.
CHEF’S TIP: A lovely way to use up any leftover ratatouille is to mix it with rice and then stuff
tomatoes, which you have deseeded, and bake them in the oven at 180°C/350°F/gas 4 for 25–30
minutes. Or for a quick snack, top pieces of toasted baguette or a rustic loaf, such as pain de
campagne, with cold ratatouille. Delicious.
Risotto au citron vert
LIME RISOTTO
This is a very special and different risotto, which I normally serve to accompany lamb at The
Vineyard – but it tastes wonderful in its own right. Risottos can be done in so many ways: they can be
velvety, fragrant, luxurious, elegant or all of these. In this one, the lime brings a refreshing, sharp edge
and balances the richness of the cheese and butter beautifully.
Preparation time: 15 minutes, plus making the stock
Cooking time: 20 minutes
135g/4¾oz butter
1 onion, finely chopped
300g/10½oz/1 cup risotto rice, such as arborio or carnaroli
900ml/31fl oz/scant 4 cups Vegetable Stock, plus extra as needed (see page 19)
1½ limes, zest finely grated and fruit peeled and cut into segments, then chopped
90g/3¼oz Parmesan cheese, grated
Heat 80g/2¾oz of the butter in a medium frying pan over a low heat. Add the onion and cook gently
for 3–4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until light golden. Add the rice and turn the heat down to very
low. Mix with a wooden spoon until the rice is well coated with the butter and onion.
Add the stock, little by little, stirring continuously until the liquid is absorbed before adding more
stock. Carry on adding stock, stirring and then continue to add more stock until the rice has a lovely,
creamy texture. Make sure the risotto does not stick to the bottom of the pan.
At the last minute, stir in half the chopped lime segments, the lime zest, Parmesan and the rest of the
butter. Place the remaining lime segments, covered, in the fridge to use another day. If the risotto is
too thick, add a few more spoonfuls of stock to loosen it up, then season with salt and pepper and
serve immediately.
Couscous de légumes et pois chiches
VEGETABLE & CHICKPEA COUSCOUS
Couscous, made from husked, crushed semolina wheat, is very much a North African dish, however,
it has become very popular in France and is now frequently found on brasserie menus. The type of
couscous dish you find in France will differ according to the region you are in, what produce is
available at the time of year and how spicy you like it. I prefer mine milder and more aromatic than
spicy, which is what I have offered here. Also, I like to use the ‘moyen’, or medium-sized, grain.
3 tbsp olive oil

2 courgettes, cut in half lengthways and then into pieces
2 carrots, peeled and sliced
2 turnips, peeled and cut into wedges
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 tsp four-spice mix (including ground ginger, nutmeg, cloves and white pepper)
a pinch each of cayenne pepper, ground coriander and ground cumin
1 tsp coriander seeds
1l/35fl oz/4 cups Vegetable Stock (see page 19)
200g/7oz/generous 1 cup medium-grain couscous
60g/2¼oz butter
125g/4½oz/¾ cup tinned chickpeas, drained and rinsed
a handful of coriander, leaves only, chopped, to serve
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium frying pan over a medium heat. Add the courgettes, carrots,
turnips and onion and sauté for 5 minutes until the vegetables are pale golden. Stir in the spices, stock
and tomato purée and cook over a low heat for 30 minutes, partially covered and stirring
occasionally, until the vegetables are tender but still have some bite to them.
When the vegetables have been cooking for about 15 minutes, put the couscous in a heatproof bowl
and set aside. In a medium saucepan, put 20g/¾oz of the butter and 250ml/9fl oz/1 cup water, then
season with salt and pepper and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and pour the liquid over the
couscous while mixing. Cover the bowl of couscous with cling film and leave to stand for 10 minutes
until the couscous is tender. Meanwhile, add the chickpeas to the vegetables to heat through.
Remove the cling film and fluff up the couscous with a fork. Add and stir in the remaining butter, little
by little, then season again with salt and pepper. Drizzle the remaining oil over and sprinkle with
coriander leaves. Serve the couscous with the vegetables, spooning some of the liquid from the
vegetable pan over the top.
Les Accompagnements et Salades
SIDE DISHES & SALADS
I always look forward to the change of seasons and how that is reflected on our plates,
especially when it comes to side dishes and salads. Each season brings its own special selection
of the fresh, the earthy, the tender, the robust and the sweet – something for every mood, every
day. Whether steamed, sautéed, roasted, baked or grilled and tossed with olive oil or butter, or
served in a salad with a tasty dressing – the possibilities are endless and there is always
something delicious and new to enjoy.
Courgettes à l’huile d’olive et thym
COURGETTES WITH OLIVE OIL & THYME
Preparation time 5 minutes, plus 15 minutes marinating
4 courgettes, cut into long 5mm/¼in-thick slices

4 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp thyme leaves
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Combine the courgette slices, oil and half the thyme in a
small bowl and season with pepper. Set aside to marinate for a good 15 minutes, so the herbs can
work their magic.
Heat a griddle pan over a medium to high heat. Spread the courgettes across the lines of the pan and
cook for 3 minutes on each side until slightly softened but still retaining some bite. You will need to
work in batches, depending on the size of your pan.
Transfer the courgettes to a baking tray, sprinkle with sea salt, a little more pepper and the rest of the
thyme leaves and finish in the preheated oven for 3–4 minutes, then serve.
Haricots verts au beurre et échalottes
BUTTERED GREEN BEANS WITH SHALLOTS
400g/14oz green beans, trimmed

30g/1oz butter
Bring a saucean of salted water to the boil and blanch the beans for 4–5 minutes or until al dente, then
refresh in a bowl of ice-cold water. Drain and pat dry with kitchen towel.
Heat the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the green beans and shallot and cook for 2–3
minutes until slightly al dente and well coated with butter. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
Chou braisé
BRAISED CABBAGE
1 Savoy cabbage, outer leaves removed

20g/¾oz butter or 2 tbsp olive oil
carrot, finely diced
Cut the cabbage in half, core and slice very thinly. Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to
the boil and blanch the cabbage for 1–2 minutes, then drain. Rinse under cold water to keep the
colour, then pat dry with kitchen towel. Using the same pan you blanched the cabbage in, melt the
butter over a low heat. When it is foaming, throw in the cabbage and carrot and cook for 2–3 minutes,
stirring occasionally, until tender. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
Petits pois à la Française
PEAS WITH PAN-FRIED PANCETTA & COS LETTUCE
30g/1oz butter
12 baby onions, peeled
1 tsp caster sugar
55g/2oz pancetta, cut into 5mm/¼-in thick strips
1 tbsp olive oil
500g/1lb 2oz fresh peas
1 cos lettuce, torn into pieces
Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil. Melt the butter in another small saucepan over a medium
heat. When it is foaming, throw in the onions and cook for 4–5 minutes, stirring occasionally, without
browning. Season with salt and pepper, then add enough water to cover and cook for 15 minutes until
the onions are soft and the liquid has reduced by half. Add the sugar and cook, stirring, for about 3–4
minutes until glazed, transparent and shiny. Set aside.
Add the pancetta to the boiling water and blanch for 1–2 minutes, then refresh in cold water, drain
and pat dry. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and sauté the pancetta for 7–8 minutes
until crispy and golden brown. Set aside.
Add the peas and cos lettuce to the pan with the onions and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 3–4
minutes. The peas should be tender, the onions still whole and the lettuce just a little crunchy. Add the
pancetta and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.
Artichauts violets braisés à la citronnelle, roquette et parmesan
BRAISED PURPLE ARTICHOKES WITH LEMONGRASS, ROCKET &
PARMESAN
Walking in the countryside of France, you could be forgiven for thinking that this purple thistle was
little more than a weed. But you’d be missing something really special. Catherine de Medici, an
Italian princess, recognized this plant for the delicacy it is, and was responsible for bringing it to
France in the late 16th century.
juice of 1 lemon
16 small purple artichokes or 280g/10oz drained, preserved artichokes
2 tbsp olive oil
4 garlic cloves, crushed with the flat edge of a knife or your hand
2 lemongrass stalks, halved and bruised
1 lemon, halved
150ml/5fl oz/scant cup dry white wine
1 small red pepper, peeled if desired, deseeded and chopped
100g/3½oz rocket leaves, to serve
50g/1¾oz Parmesan or a hard cheese such as Comté, shaved, to serve
DIJON MUSTARD DRESSING

1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp olive oil
If using fresh artichokes, fill a large bowl with water and mix in the lemon juice. Remove the outer
leaves from the artichokes and cut the tops off. Trim and peel the stalks. Cut in half lengthways and
put them immediately in a bowl of water to prevent them from discolouring.
Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Drain the artichokes and add them to the
pan. Cook for 3 minutes, turning occasionally with a wooden spoon, until golden brown all over. Add
the garlic and lemongrass and squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over. Cook for a further 5 minutes.
If using preserved artichokes, cook for 1 minute before adding the garlic, lemongrass and lemon juice
and then for a further 2 minutes.
Add the wine and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook for 2–3 minutes until slightly reduced,
then add the red pepper. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for 10 minutes or until
the liquid is reduced by at least half (to about 2–3 tablespoons). The artichokes should be cooked but
still quite firm. Remove the artichokes from the pan and set aside for 15 minutes. If there is any
remaining cooking liquid in the pan, drain it into a small bowl and discard the lemongrass.
Meanwhile, you can make the dressing. Add the mustard, oil and balsamic vinegar to the cooking
liquid. Season with salt and pepper and whisk to combine.
When the artichokes have cooled, scoop out and discard the chokes, using a small spoon. Be careful
not to lose any of the artichoke heart just below the choke. Cut the flesh into quarters, if preferred.
Arrange the artichokes on a plate, top with the rocket and Parmesan shavings, sprinkle with the
dressing and serve. This is a delicious, refreshing and colourful dish, and also makes a great
accompaniment to grilled meat or fish.
Frisée aux lardons
FRISÉE WITH PANCETTA
The secret with frisée lettuce is to choose one that is really yellow. You need to use all the yellow
and only the top section of the light green part. Discard the rest, which can be very bitter. Try keeping
the frisée in cold water for 20 minutes before preparing this dish to make it extra firm and crunchy.
Delicious with omelette and sautéed potatoes.
150g/5½oz pancetta, cut into 1cm/½in dice

1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp red or white wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar
1 yellow frisée lettuce, torn into bite-sized pieces
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the pancetta for 1–2 minutes, then refresh in cold
water, drain and pat dry. Heat the sunflower oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and sauté the
pancetta for 8–10 minutes until crispy.
In a small bowl, mix together the the mustard, vinegar and 2 tablespoons water, then whisk in the
olive oil until the mixture is quite thick and glossy. Season with salt and pepper.
Put the frisée in a bowl, toss with the vinaigrette and add the crispy pancetta, then serve.
Epinards au beurre et citron
BUTTERED SPINACH WITH LEMON ZEST
zest of 1 lemon, cut into thin strips

1 tbsp caster sugar
30g/1oz butter
500g/1lb 2oz large leaf spinach
Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the strips of lemon zest for 4–5 minutes to
soften and to get rid of any chemicals, then refresh in cold water, drain and blanch and refresh again.
Put the sugar in the pan with enough water to just cover and stir to dissolve. Add the zest and simmer
gently over a low heat for 20 minutes until glazed. The lemon strips should be candied, shiny and not
sticking to each other. Set aside.
Heat the butter in a medium saucepan over a medium heat – it needs to be hot enough for the spinach
to wilt quickly, but not so hot that the butter burns! Add the garlic and spinach and cook for 2 minutes
until wilted. Season with salt and pepper, then drain and squeeze off any excess liquid.
Serve hot sprinkled with the candied lemon zest.

Pommes de terre persillées
SAUTÉED POTATOES WITH PARSLEY & GARLIC
400g/14oz new potatoes, cut into 5mm/¼-in thick slices

30g/1oz butter
1 small handful flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
sea salt
Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to the boil and blanch the potatoes for 8 minutes, then drain
and pat dry with kitchen towel.
Warm the sunflower oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the potato slices and cook for
3–4 minutes on each side until golden brown. Just before they are ready, add the butter and let it melt
around them – it will give them an extra crispiness and a nutty flavour. At the last minute, throw in the
parsley and garlic and sprinkle with salt. Serve immediately.
Ecrasée de pommes de terre à la coriandre et citron vert
WARM CRUSHED POTATOES WITH CORIANDER & LIME
400g/14oz new potatoes

juice and zest of 1 lime
1 small handful of coriander, leaves only, roughly chopped
olive oil, for drizzling
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and boil the potatoes for 8–10 minutes until still
slightly firm. Drain, refresh under cold water and peel, then crush slightly with a fork – not too much
or you will turn them into mash.
Season with salt and pepper, then add the lime juice and zest and the coriander. Drizzle with a little
oil and serve.
Fondant de pommes de terre à l’ail confit
FONDANT POTATOES WITH CONFIT OF GARLIC

100g/3½oz butter, chopped
500g/1lb 2oz small waxy potatoes, such as Charlotte or Jersey Royal, peeled
8 garlic cloves, unpeeled and crushed slightly with the flat edge of a knife or your hand
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup vegetable Stock (see page 19) or Chicken Stock (see page 18)
1 rosemary sprig
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Put the oil and butter in a baking dish. Add the potatoes and
garlic and bake in the preheated oven for 15–20 minutes or until golden brown all around.
Add the stock and rosemary and bake for a further 15 minutes or until the stock has been absorbed and
the potatoes are soft and garlicky. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
Gratin de pommes de terre au vieux comté
POTATO GRATIN WITH AGED COMTÉ
200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup full-fat milk

200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup double cream
1 tsp freshly ground nutmeg
1 bay leaf
1 garlic clove, cut in half
55g/2oz butter
500g/1lb 2oz floury potatoes, such as Desiree or Maris Piper, thinly sliced
115g/4oz aged Comté cheese or other mature hard cheese, grated
Preheat the oven to 140°C/275°F/gas 1. Put the milk, cream, nutmeg and bay leaf in a medium
saucepan over a medium heat and season with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then remove from the
heat and discard the bay leaf.
Rub a baking dish all around with the garlic clove, then grease it with the butter. Arrange the sliced
potatoes in the dish. Stir half the cheese into the milk mixture and pour it over the potatoes. Sprinkle
the remaining cheese on top and bake for 45 minutes until melted and lightly coloured.
Preheat the grill to high and grill the gratin for 3–4 minutes or until golden brown. Serve immediately.
Grosses frites au sel de mer
LARGE FRENCH FRIES WITH SEA SALT
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus 1–2 hours chilling
800g/1lb 12oz floury potatoes, such as Desiree or Maris Piper, peeled and thickly sliced
1l/35fl oz/4 cups sunflower oil
sea salt
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Cut off both ends of the potatoes, peel them and cut
them into large, long chips, about 2cm/¾in thick. Wash them to get rid of any excess starch and drop
them into the boiling water for about 6–8 minutes. They should still be quite firm when you take them
out. Line a tray with kitchen towel, drain the potatoes carefully, so as not to break them, and put them
on the tray. Leave to cool, then chill for 1–2 hours.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a low heat to 140°C/275°F. If you don’t have a thermometer,
you can check the temperature by dropping a potato in – if it floats and bubbles, the oil is hot enough.
Add the potatoes in 2 or 3 batches, depending on the size of your pan, and fry for 4–6 minutes until
firm but with no colour. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on a tray
lined with kitchen towel. Repeat with the remaining potatoes.
When ready to serve, increase the temperature of the oil to 185°C/360°F. Fry the chips again in
batches for 4–6 minutes until they are a lovely golden colour. Serve hot sprinkled with salt.
Purée de pommes de terre à la crème
CREAMED MASHED POTATOES
1kg/2lb 4oz floury potatoes, such as Desiree, Charlotte or Ratte, unpeeled

100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup full-fat milk
2 garlic cloves, sliced
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6. Wash the potatoes thoroughly, put in a large saucepan, cover
with water and add a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 30–40 minutes or until
completely cooked through. Drain quickly and place the potatoes on a baking sheet. Put the potatoes
in the preheated oven for 10 minutes, then peel.
While still warm, quickly pass the potatoes through a sieve or mouli. Do not allow them to cool, or
the mash will be gluey. Cover and set aside.
Put the milk, cream and garlic in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and pour half
the mixture over the potato mixture. Mix well, then add the rest of the liquid little by little. Season
with salt and pepper and serve hot.
Salade de pommes de terre nouvelles aux oeufs durs et vinaigrette au Xérès
NEW POTATO SALAD WITH HARD-BOILED EGGS & SHERRY
VINAIGRETTE
I find potato salad can be a bit heavy, which is why I love to put plenty of herbs in it. Sorrel and
chervil are beautiful herbs but can be tricky to find; market stalls are your best bet. Wild sorrel can be
found alongside rivers and in wetlands in the springtime – it looks like an elongated spinach and
tastes quite bitter. If you can’t find chervil, use extra chives or some tarragon instead. I like to use
vinaigrette rather than mayonnaise, because it keeps potato salad light and refreshing. A great one for
picnics.
1kg/2lb 4oz new potatoes

1 fennel bulb, about 5–8cm/ 2–3¼in long
2 eggs
1 tsp vinegar
sherry vinegar, for drizzling
1 small handful of spinach leaves, trimmed
1 small handful of sorrel leaves, trimmed (optional)
1 small handful of mixed lettuce leaves
6 chervil sprigs, finely chopped
2 mint leaves, finely chopped
5 dill sprigs, finely chopped, plus extra to serve
2 spring onions, finely chopped
1 tbsp roughly chopped chives
4 radishes, finely sliced
SHERRY VINAIGRETTE
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
3 tbsp olive oil
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and simmer the potatoes and fennel stalk over a
medium heat for 30 minutes until al dente.
Meanwhile, hard-boil the eggs. Fill a small saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Add the
teaspoon of vinegar to the water, as this will make the eggs easier to shell after cooking. Place each
egg in a ladle, then slowly and carefully slide the egg into the water so that you don’t break the shell.
Cook for 8 to 9 minutes, drain and place the eggs under running cold water. When cool enough to
handle, shell the eggs, cut in quarters and set aside.
Drain the potatoes and fennel stalk and refresh under cold water. Peel the potatoes, then cut the
potatoes and the fennel into thick slices. Put them in a bowl and drizzle with some sherry vinegar.
Arrange the spinach, sorrel and lettuce on a large serving dish, leaving a space in the centre for the
potatoes and fennel. Sprinkle the chervil, mint, dill, spring onions and chives over the greens, season
with salt and drizzle with more sherry vinegar. Put the potatoes and fennel in the centre of the dish
and arrange the eggs around them.
To prepare the vinaigrette, put the mustard, vinegar and oil in a bowl and season with salt and
pepper. Whisk to combine, then pour the dressing over the potato salad.
Sprinkle with extra dill sprigs and the radish slices and serve.
Les Herbes
Herbs
I cannot remember a day when there were no herbs in my home or my kitchen, and if such an instance
ever were to happen, it would be purely by accident. Would I be able to cook without them? Yes,
because I love my trade. Would I like it? Probably not.
It is very hard to explain how essential herbs are to the cooking process or how profoundly they
enhance food, whether added to a salad, meat, fish, vegetables or even a dessert. They have such an
important place in the kitchen simply because they bring so much taste, so much scent, so much colour
to a dish.
If I close my eyes for a few minutes, I can remember what it was like in my childhood when you
could smell a wonderful scent of herbs floating around the house when maman was cooking. It’s easy
to recall the fragrance of herbs in the freshness of spring or the height of summer, or in your garden, at
the market stall or on holiday somewhere such as Provence. There, such vast quantities of so many
different herbs grow that the sheer intensity of their scent can be overwhelming and disorienting to the
senses. Imagine, if you can, herb fields stretching as far as the eye can see and the sweet scent of
thyme mixed with juniper or lavender. What an amazing pleasure, what a delight and what a
landscape!
Rather than taking centre stage and overpowering a dish, I think that herbs are best used in the
background, as a subtle finishing touch that really completes a dish. The herbs I’ve selected for use in
the recipes in this book are mostly common and easily available, so you can enjoy cooking with them.
I have carefully matched them with each recipe for a well-balanced effect.
Like everyone, I have a few favourite herbs that I often use. One of them is thyme, one of the most
versatile and commonly used herbs in the kitchen. It is especially good with meats such as pork, lamb
and mutton because it aids the digestion of fats (one reason it is also used as a tisane to revitalize the
spirit and refresh the senses), and it’s also used in stuffing, ragoût and, of course, the all-essential
bouquet garni – my standard bouquet garni is made up of a sprig of thyme, a sprig of parsley and a
bay leaf.
Another herb I like to use is lavender. Many people do not associate lavender with cooking and
are surprised to find it in food, but it is a versatile culinary herb. It is great in meat and poultry dishes
as well as desserts. We use it in our specialities at The vineyard. For example, lavender infused in
honey and chilli gives a wonderful flavour to fish dishes. Lavender is everywhere in Provence, with
fields full of row after row of purple flowers. The scent invades the whole area – you can smell it in
shops, restaurants, cupboards, bathrooms and, of course, in perfumes. It can sometimes be a little
overpowering, but, used carefully, the scent and taste of lavender is a pure delight.
Other herbs mentioned in the recipes in this book include parsley, chives, tarragon, chervil,
coriander, sage, mint, lemongrass, dill and sorrell. The first four of the herbs I mentioned above are
also the main ingredients of fines herbes, a staple of French cuisine. They are chopped very finely
and usually added right at the end of the cooking process.
Another interesting herb that I recommend you try is sarriette, also known as winter savory,
which is great in soups, with vegetables or, again, in desserts. Winter savory can be difficult to find
in Great Britain, but it is worth tracking it down if you can. For me, it really comes into its own when
it is paired with broad beans.
While I’m on the subject of pairings, I should mention there are many complementary
relationships between herbs and other ingredients that seem made in heaven – for example, chicken
with fresh thyme, duck with lavender, and, of course, lamb with rosemary.
You may be wondering how I could have left off my list so far a herb as important as rosemary,
but really, I was simply saving my favourite until last. At home, I rarely cook without rosemary.
While it’s difficult to explain why I love it so much, I suspect it is partly because it is so evocative of
my childhood, reminding me of when I would cut it freshly from our garden at home to go in whatever
dish Maman was preparing that day. The smell of rosemary stays on your hand for a while, then,
unnoticed, it disappears. But it never leaves you really – instead it stays and wafts around in your
memory all your life.
Rosemary has beautiful light purple or white flowers that blossom twice a year. These can be
eaten, like many other flowers, including thyme and winter savoury, as well as nasturtiums and
pansies, which are often included in salads or used as decoration.
When mixed with other ingredients, rosemary changes character. It is a great herb, but its strength
can be lethal, and adding too much of it can make a dish taste bitter. Using rosemary carefully is
therefore crucial – but when you succeed, you have a heavenly scent. Make the Tarte Tatin with
Rosemary and Toasted Almonds (see page 180) and you will discover how rosemary lifts the apples
and mixes with the sugar so well. Or use this versatile herb in a lamb dish, such as Roast Lamb with
Mediterranean Vegetables & Sauce Vierge (see page 67) to bring out its many flavours, or skewered
in a pineapple to add depth.
Rosemary also has a connection with the great English writer, William Shakespeare, as it is
mentioned in several of his plays. Each year on Shakespeare’s birthday, branches of rosemary are
carried in the streets of Stratford-upon-Avon. What a great day that must be!
Tied with rosemary as a firm favourite is another perhaps less well-known herb – chervil. Again,
it is a herb that maman used a lot, especially in soup. When the soup was almost ready, she would
chop the chervil quickly, then just throw it in and serve it. At that point, as the scent of the herb made
contact with the heat, the magic began for me, and I’ll always remember the way the enticing aroma
gradually wafted around and drew me in.
I could never resist a second helping, both because of the chervil scent and because the soup was
great, too. Chervil has a slightly peppery taste and it goes especially well with buttered carrots,
lifting and enhancing the flavour. Unfortunately, chervil can be difficult to find in shops, but you can
always ensure a plentiful supply by growing it yourself in spring or summer in your garden or in a pot
on the window sill.
In fact, growing a variety of herbs in your very own herb garden, whether in your kitchen or on a
balcony, a roof terrace or a window sill, is a great idea, especially if you cook a lot. Not only does
this allow you to control the quality of the herbs you use in your cooking (after all, you nurtured those
plants yourself), but it also means that you regularly get to use fresh herbs, whose flavour is
completely different from and far superior to the flavour of shop-bought dried herbs.
I’ve expounded at length here and only scratched the surface of the fascinating world of herbs. If
you’d like to learn more, I suggest that you begin by following the recipes in this book to get a better
idea of how to use them. Then, your understanding of the role herbs play in the kitchen will expand
quickly. Once you have a basic knowledge and feel confident enough, start experimenting with using
herbs in different ways and with new herbs you discover for yourself. I guarantee you won’t regret it.
flat-leaf parsley, sorrel, mint, sage, coriander, rosemary, chives, chervil, dill
Salade de concombre à la moutarde de Dijon et ciboulette
CUCUMBER SALAD WITH DIJON MUSTARD & CHIVES
These salads were two of my favourites when I was young, and ones that are very common to find on
brasserie display counters. Fresh and easy to serve, they are simple, yet delightfully tasty. If you have
freshly picked carrots from your own garden, the second recipe is simply the best – it goes very well
with any terrine.
Preparation time 25 minutes, plus 20 minutes resting and making the vinaigrette
1 cucumber, peeled and cut into 3mm/ in-thick slices

1 tbsp French Vinaigrette (see page 20)
1 tbsp double cream
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 small handful of chives, chopped
Put the cucumber in a large bowl and sprinkle it with salt. Mix well, then set aside for 15–20 minutes
to allow the cucumber to release its juices.
Rinse the cucumber quickly under running cold water to remove the excess salt and pat dry with a
clean tea towel.
Mix together the vinaigrette, cream and mustard and season with salt and pepper. Pour the dressing
over the cucumber, sprinkle with the chives and serve immediately.
Salade de carottes râpées au cerfeuil
GRATED CARROT SALAD WITH CHERVIL
3 carrots, peeled and coarsely grated

2 tbsp French Vinaigrette (see page 20), or to taste
1 small handful of chervil or coriander, leaves only, chopped
Put the carrots in a large bowl. Stir in the vinaigrette, adjusting the amount you use to taste, season
with salt and white pepper and sprinkle with the chervil.
Serve chilled as a starter.

Salade de tomates aux oignons
GARDEN TOMATO & ONION SALAD
There are lots of different onions, but none as good as the lovely sweet white onions from the South
of France, which are for me the perfect partners to bring this tomato salad to life. Here I pair the
French white onion with flat-leaf parsley, but you could use red onion and basil instead. Just don’t
use the large Spanish onion, which has a different flavour, texture and purpose. With a drizzle of
freshly cut herbs, olive oil, red wine vinegar, garlic and a touch of salt and pepper, you have the
perfect summer salad. Get your baguette ready to dip into those juices and wonderful dressing!
4 large ripe Italian plum tomatoes or garden round tomatoes, cored and cut into 5mm/¼in-thick slices
8 small yellow tomatoes, halved
4 small round tomatoes, quartered
1 small white onion or 1 large spring onion, white part only, finely sliced
4 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
sliced baguette, to serve (optional)
Arrange the tomatoes on a serving dish and sprinkle the onion over them. Season with salt and pepper
and drizzle with the oil and vinegars, then top with the parsley and garlic. Enjoy with sliced baguette,
if desired, or as a side dish.
Les Desserts
DESSERTS
My grandparents’ orchard produced so much fruit that Grand-Père had to think up ingenious
ways to store it. I used to pick the fruit (though more went in my mouth than in my basket), and
Grand-Père wove the baskets himself and filled them with juicy apples, layered with hay. He
then stored them in the attic, and when that was full, he put them in the cellar. They kept
beautifully right through to the spring, enabling us to make wonderful desserts such as Maman’s
Apple Tart. The next problem was where to put the apricots, pears, cherries, redcurrants,
blackcurrants … Apricot Tart and Summer Fruit Tart with Lime are delicious examples of how
we enjoyed them.
Parcelles de fruits
FRUIT PARCELS IN FILO PASTRY
Filo pastry parcels are great because you can put almost any fruit you like in them and end up with a
fabulous dessert bursting with flavour (just make sure that the fruit isn’t too ripe or it will soak the
pastry). These little pockets can be as fragrant, as sweet or as spicy as you like: you can add citrus
zest, nuts and the spices of your choice. Work quickly and keep the pastry covered with a damp cloth
to prevent it from drying out. Served warm and crunchy with a delicate fruit sauce or coulis, they taste
like heaven.
400g/14oz filo pastry sheets

100g/3½oz butter, melted
310g/11oz mixed berries or the fruit of your choice, hulled and prepared as necessary
2 vanilla pods, cut in half lengthways
4 petals of 1 star anise
1 tsp freshly crushed black peppercorns
3 tbsp caster sugar
zest of 1 lime
icing sugar, for sprinkling
ice cream or 1 recipe quantity Vanilla Custard (see page 24), to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Unroll the filo pastry, spread it out on a lightly floured work
surface and cut it into 16 rectangles, about 30 × 15cm/12 × 6in. Brush each pastry rectangle with
some of the melted butter, stacking one on top of the other to create 4 stacks of 4 pastry rectangles. By
coating each piece of pastry in butter, you get a beautifully crumbly parcel. It also prevents the pastry
from getting soggy when the fruit releases its juices during baking.
Leaving a 3cm/1¼in-wide border along the edges, arrange the fruit on a middle quarter of each pastry
stack, keeping the remaining pastry free to fold over. Top each portion of fruit with half a vanilla pod
and 1 star anise petal and sprinkle with the black pepper, sugar and lime zest.
Working with one pastry and fruit stack, position it horizontally on the work surface. Brush the edges
of the pastry again with some of the remaining butter. Fold the right-hand side of the pastry over the
fruit, then fold the left-hand side over to cover the pastry and fruit. Gently pinch the top and bottom
open edges together and fold them under the parcel to make sure it is well sealed. Repeat until you
have 4 individual parcels.
Transfer the parcels onto a greased baking sheet and sprinkle with icing sugar, which will create a
lovely glaze during baking. Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes until golden brown and shiny.
Serve warm with ice cream or custard.
CHEF’S TIP: Crumble 1 or 2 amaretti biscuits over the fruit mix in each parcel before folding
them up. This adds a subtle almond flavour to the fruit parcels and the biscuit crumbs soak up the
fruit juices to help keep the pastry crisp.
Tarte tatin au romarin et amandes grillées
TARTE TATIN WITH ROSEMARY & TOASTED ALMONDS
This classic dessert carries the name of the two famous Tatin sisters who invented the recipe.
Everybody loves it, I think, because of the smell of warm apple mixed with caramel, and the
delicious crunchiness of the light pastry. Just add the contrast of cold crème fraîche or ice cream and
you have one of the most fabulous yet simple desserts on the planet. Personally, I like it with a touch
of rosemary – when you open the oven door you are enveloped in the incredible perfume of
rosemary-scented apples. It is a miracle worth waiting for!
Preparation time 15 minutes, plus chilling
Cooking time 1 hour
220g/7¾oz ready-made puff pastry

120g/4¼oz/heaped ½ cup caster sugar
40g/1½oz unsalted butter
1 rosemary sprig, leaves only, roughly chopped
3–4 apples such as Cox, Reinette or Golden Delicious, peeled, quartered and cored
a large pinch of toasted flaked almonds, plus extra for sprinkling
crème fraîche, to serve
Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface, then cut out a circle slightly bigger than the size of a
20cm/8in flameproof baking or tatin dish. Roll the pastry over the rolling pin and place the pastry on
a baking sheet, cover with cling film and chill for 25–30 minutes. This will prevent the pastry from
shrinking during cooking.
Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/gas 5. Melt the sugar gently in the baking or tatin dish over a
medium heat until golden brown, remove from the heat and stir in the butter. Sprinkle about a quarter
of the rosemary leaves over. Arrange the apples tightly along the edge of the baking or tatin dish in a
circle, then make smaller circles of tightly fitted apples within this circle until the based is covered
and all the apples are used. Bake in the preheated oven for 35 minutes.
Remove from the oven, sprinkle the remaining rosemary and toasted flaked almonds over the apples
and place the pastry on top, pushing the edges into the dish. Return the tin to the oven and bake for a
further 20 minutes until the pastry is golden brown and crisp.
Remove the tart from the oven and leave to cool for a few minutes. Put an upside-down plate the size
of the dish on top of the tart and, holding both the plate and dish, flip to unmould onto the plate and
sprinkle with extra almonds. Et voilà – a perfect tarte tatin with rosemary. Enjoy while warm.
Delicious with crème fraîche.
La tarte aux pommes de Maman
MAMAN’S APPLE TART
What used to amaze me about the apples my grandparents grew and stored on the farm was that, even
if the skin was as wrinkled as Grand-père’s face, the inside stayed fresh and beautiful – just like him,
he used to say! Even after months of storage, the taste was tremendous. So with these apples, my
Grand-Mère taught Maman to bake. With these apples, Maman taught me to bake. Whenever I tell my
son, Antoine, we are going to visit his Grand-Mère in France, the first question he asks is, ‘Can you
ask her to bake an apple tart, please, Papa?’
1 large egg
3 heaped tbsp caster sugar
1 recipe quantity Grand-Mère’s Sweet Pastry (see page 22), Sweet Short Pastry (see page 22), or 225–250g/8–9oz ready-made
shortcrust pastry
plain flour, for rolling out the pastry
30g/1oz/scant cup ground almonds
4–5 apples such as Cox or Braeburn, peeled, cored and cut into wedges
Mix the egg, cream and sugar in a bowl, beating with an electric mixer or hand-held electric whisk
for about 5 minutes until fluffy.
Grease a 24cm/9½in loose-bottomed tart tin with butter. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured
surface until it is about 3–5mm/ –¼in thick, then roll the pastry over the rolling pin and place the
pastry over the tart tin. With one hand lift the pastry edge and with the other gently tuck the pastry into
the bottom and sides of the tin so that it fits tightly. Don’t overstretch it or it’ll break, and press down
gently to push out any bubbles. Trim off any excess pastry by rolling the pin over the top edge of the
tin. Prick the pastry base all over with a fork, cover with cling film and chill for 25–30 minutes.
Towards the end of the chilling time, preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/ gas 4. Place the tart pan on a
baking sheet and sprinkle the ground almonds over the tart base, then arrange the apple pieces in a fan
shape over the almonds, starting from the outside edge and finishing in the centre. Place the pieces as
regularly as you can. Pour the egg mixture over the apples, making sure that the whole surface has
been drizzled with the mixture and there are no gaps.
Bake in the preheated oven for 20–25 minutes until pale golden. Remove from the oven and set aside
until it has cooled down a little.
Serve the tart while it is still a little warm, when it is most delicious. You don’t need cream or ice-
cream – it’s best on its own with a lovely espresso on the side!
Tarte à l’abricot
APRICOT TART
L’Epiphany on 6 January is a big event in France. On that day, we traditionally serve a dessert called
la Galette des Rois – a delicious layered feuilleté, or light puff pastry, filled with frangipane almond
cream. Another tradition is to hide a coin in the dessert and whoever finds it (without breaking his or
her teeth, we hope) gets the crown and is king or queen for the day. The recipe here is a twist on the
classic. I use an almond cream that’s similar to frangipane, then add apricots and finish it off with
toasted almond flakes. It’s one of my favourites for texture as well as flavour.
Preparation time 30 minutes, plus making the pastry, chilling and cooling
60g/2¼oz/heaped ½ cup ground almonds

60g/2¼oz/¼ cup caster sugar
1 egg, beaten
4 tbsp whipping cream
60g/2¼oz butter, softened, plus extra for greasing
1 recipe quantity Sweet Short Pastry (see page 22) or 225g/8oz ready made shortcrust pastry
800g/1lb 12oz ripe apricots, halved and stoned
85g/3oz/¼ cup smooth apricot jam
40g/1½oz/½ cup toasted almond flakes
Put the ground almonds, sugar, egg, vanilla extract, cream and half the butter in a bowl and mix until
you have a lovely, smooth almond paste, then set aside.
Grease a 24cm/9½in loose-bottomed tart tin with butter. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured
surface until it is about 3–5mm/ –¼in thick, then roll the pastry over the rolling pin and place the
pastry over the tart tin. With one hand lift the pastry edge and with the other gently tuck the pastry into
the bottom and sides of the tin so that it fits tightly. Don’t overstretch it or it’ll break, and press down
gently to push out any bubbles. Trim off any excess pastry by rolling the pin over the top edge of the
tin. Prick the pastry base all over with a fork, cover with cling film and chill for 25–30 minutes.
Towards the end of the chilling time, preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/ gas 4. Spread the almond
paste over the base of the tart and then arrange the apricot halves on top in a rosace pattern. To do
this, arrange the apricots along the edge of the tart so they are slighly overlapping, then make smaller
circles of overlapping apricots within this circle until the base is covered and all the apricots are
used.
Put the tart in the preheated oven and bake for 30 minutes, then check to see if the apricots are
softened, the pastry is pale golden and the almond cream is firm to the touch. If the tart needs more
time, bake for a further 5–10 minutes (the apricots will need more time if less ripe). Remove from the
oven and set aside to cool for 15 minutes.
Warm the apricot jam in a small saucepan over a low heat, then brush it over the top of the tart.
Sprinkle with the toasted almond flakes and serve slightly warm – it makes all the difference.
Tarte aux fruits rouges et citron vert
SUMMER FRUIT TART WITH LIME
In Alsace there is a village called Turckheim. It has the charm of many French villages, with its
cobbled streets, small shops and a fountain into which so many are anxious to throw their coins. This
one stands out in my memory because of the lamplighter, who, every evening at 10 o’clock, strolls the
streets in traditional costume, lighting lamps, singing songs and calmly announcing the hour. My father
used to go wine tasting there and, as we were still a bit young for it (even by French standards), my
mum would take us to a pâtisserie where we could gorge on summer fruit tart with berries so fresh
they made our lips and teeth purple.
Preparation time 30 minutes, plus making the crème pâtissière , chilling and cooling
1 egg yolk
250g/9oz ready-rolled puff pastry
reduced balsamic vinegar, for brushing
125ml/4fl oz/½ cup Crème Pâtissière (see page 24) or thick custard
zest of 1 lime
juice of half a lime
55g/2oz/heaped cup strawberries, halved and hulled
55g/2oz/scant ½ cup blackberries
55g/2oz/scant ½ cup raspberries
55g/2oz/heaped cup blueberries
85g/3oz/scant ¼ cup smooth raspberry jam
Line a baking sheet with baking parchment. In a small bowl, beat the egg yolk with 1 tablespoon
water and set aside. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface – the thickness will already be
fine, you just need to roll it enough so that you can cut out a 30 × 15cm/12 × 6in rectangle. Reserve
the leftover pastry trimmings.
Roll the pastry over the rolling pin and place the pastry on the baking sheet. Brush the edges with the
egg yolk mixture, then use the leftover pastry trimmings to make a small border, about 1.5cm/½in
wide, around the pastry rectangle. The border will ensure that your Crème Pâtissière and fruit won’t
run off the sides later. Brush the top of the border with the egg yolk mixture, prick the pastry base all
over with a fork, cover with cling film and chill for 25–30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Bake the pastry case for 20 minutes or until light brown, then
remove from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack. Brush the base of the pastry with the reduced
balsamic vinegar (this helps to make it crispy) and leave to cool. Meanwhile, put the Crème
Pâtissière, lime zest and half the lime juice in a bowl and mix well.
Spread the cream mixture over the pastry base and arrange the fruit in lines on top, alternating to
create a colourful pattern.
Warm the jam in a small saucepan over a low heat, then brush it over the fruit to glaze. Sprinkle with
the remaining lime juice and leave to set in a cool place for 30 minutes, then serve.
Tarte au citron et zest de citron vert
LEMON TART WITH LIME ZEST
250ml/9fl oz/1 cup lemon juice

280g/10oz/1¼ cups caster sugar
zest of 2 limes
7 eggs
1 recipe quantity Grand-Mère’s Sweet Pastry (see page 22), Sweet Short Pastry (see page 22), or 225g/8oz ready-made shortcrust
pastry
plain flour, for rolling out the pastry
Put the lemon juice and 180g/6¼oz/heaped ¾ cup of the sugar in a small saucepan over a medium
heat and cook for 8–10 minutes until reduced. Remove from the heat, add the lime zest and set aside.
Beat the eggs and the remaining sugar in a large bowl, using an electic mixer or a whisk, for about 3–
4 minutes until the mixture is fluffy, pale yellow and starting to form ribbon-like shapes when you lift
the beaters and it falls back into the bowl. Add the lemon mixture and cream and whisk to combine.
Cover with cling film and leave to infuse for 1 hour in a cool place but not the fridge.
Meanwhile, grease a 24cm/9½in loose-bottomed tart tin with butter. Roll out the pastry on a lightly
floured surface until it is about 3–5mm/ –¼in thick, then roll the pastry over the rolling pin and
place the pastry over the tart tin. With one hand lift the pastry edge and with the other gently tuck the
pastry into the bottom and sides of the tin so that it fits tightly. Don’t overstretch it or it’ll break, and
press down gently to push out any bubbles. Trim off any excess pastry by rolling the pin over the top
edge of the tin. Prick the base all over with a fork and chill for 25–30 minutes. This will prevent it
from shrinking during cooking.
Towards the end of the chilling time, preheat the oven to 170°C/325°F/ gas 3. Line the pastry case
with a piece of baking parchment and fill with baking beans. Bake in the preheated oven for 15
minutes, then remove from the oven, remove the beans and baking parchment and turn the oven down
to 100°C/200°F/gas ½.
Strain the lemon mixture into a medium saucepan and warm it through over a low heat, as gently as
possible, stirring continuously. This gives the filling a head start in the oven – a cold filling would
have to bake for much longer.
Pour the filling into the pastry case and bake for 40–45 minutes until set. It should tremble slightly
when the pastry case is gently shaken before removing from the oven. Leave to cool completely
before cutting to serve.
CHEF’S TIP: If you want to give the tart a twist, sprinkle some icing sugar on top and grill it
briefly to give it a brulée effect and add an extra wow factor. This tart needs little adornment, but
you could serve with it with raspberries, a coulis or some ice cream.
Les Fromages
Cheeses
Probably the most widely eaten individual food in the world, cheese is a great source of protein and
comes in a stunning variety of names, shapes and packaging. It is one of the most ancient forms of
man-made food and references to cheese-making are dotted throughout ancient literature. Even in
ancient Sumerian texts dating from 3,000BC, there are references to “twenty soft cheeses”.
For me, cheese is an essential part of the dining experience, and no meal is complete without it. In
this book, you will find many recipes containing cheese. Almost all of them are French, but Italian
Parmesan is also mentioned in some places.
Cheese is very popular in my region of Franche-Comté, which is especially well known for
Comté, one of the most famous and widely eaten cheeses in France. Comté is one of the few products
apart from wine to be granted AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) status, which guarantees the
quality and authenticity of the product and protects it from imitation. There are only 42 cheeses, two
butters and one cream that are part of this elite. Comté is the most popular cheese in France – about
40 per cent of the population consume it, which is an enormous number. Made with cow’s milk (45%
minimum fat content), it is cooked and pressed. Comté is ivory coloured or pale yellow and has a
fruity flavour and a strong bouquet. Categorized as a hard cheese and referred to as “cooked”, Comté
is made by heating the milk during production. It is unusual, as the milk has only to reach 40°C/104°F,
therefore it is an unpasteurized cheese (lait cru or raw milk) as opposed to pasteurized cheese, which
is “cooked” at 72°C/162°F for 20–30 seconds like, for example, Ossau-Iraty (see opposite). Maman
always prepared a sandwich of Comté for us when we came back from school. We absolutely loved
the afternoon treat of slices of the cheese in freshly baked baguette.
Every morning, we would have another cheese for breakfast, again with baguette. This time it was
Cancoillotte, a cheese, interestingly, that is made from another cheese, metton, which comes in both
factory-produced and hand-made varieties. To make Cancoillotte, the metton is melted with water or
milk, a pinch of salt and a small knob of butter. It’s served hot on potatoes or spread cold on bread. I
love it, and every time I go to visit Maman, she makes some for us – it is such a delicious treat and it
instantly whisks me back to my childhood. Metton is made from skimmed milk, which is coagulated,
thinly cut and heated to 60°C/140°F, then pressed, pounded and ripened for a few days.
Another cheese from my region is also a big name: Vacherin Mont d’Or. It is a seasonal cheese
that everyone awaits with great anticipation. Made from the summer milk high in the Massif du Mont
d’Or, this cheese is packaged and ripened in a wooden box and bound by a band of spruce bark,
which lends it a distinct flavour. After three weeks at a maximum of 16°C/61°F, it is cured on a board
of spruce wood and turned, then rubbed with a cloth soaked in brine. The imprint of the cloth gives
the cheese a unique appearance.
Before moving on from my region’s cheeses, I would like to mention Morbier, another
outstanding product that is protected by a special AOC label of origin. It is a cow’s milk cheese
(45% fat content), which is traditionally made by layering the curd obtained from the morning’s milk
on top of that obtained from the evening’s milk, with a protective layer of ash between them. It is best
in spring, as it is made with the winter milk production from the chalets of the foothills. It has a firm,
creamy interior with a dark line through the middle.
Of course, it is not only my region in France that produces great cheeses, the whole country does.
Let me tell you about a few of my favourites. I am a big fan of Fourme d’Ambert, a cow’s milk blue
cheese that comes from the Loire and the Puy de Dôme (45% fat content.) Holding AOC status, it has
a firm interior flavoured with parsley, and a dry, dark grey crust mottled with yellow and red. It has a
strong flavour and is shaped into a tall cylinder. Another cheese I like very much is Époisses, a soft
cow’s milk cheese named after a village on the Côte d’Or and made in almost every part of Burgundy.
It contains 45 per cent fat and has an orange washed crust (done first with sage, then with a Burgundy
brandy). At its best in winter, Époisses is creamy inside and has a very strong flavour.
My next recommendation is Livarot, a full-bodied cow’s milk cheese (45–50% fat) from the
Calvados region of Normandy. It has a soft, smooth inside and a washed brownish-red rind.
Traditionally tinted with annatto (fruit from a tropical flowering tree), this rich cheese is farm-made
and also carries an AOC label. The best time to eat it is from November to June. And finally, the last
of my favourites – Fougerus: a sumptuous cow’s milk cheese from the Île-de-France, which has a
soft interior and a whitish rind (55% fat content). It is similar to Brie but smaller and has fern leaves
wrapped around its rind. There is also a variety without the leaves, which is known as Coulommiers.
Something happened a few years back, without my noticing. I still don’t know why, but I found
myself more and more drawn toward pungent sheep’s and goat’s milk cheeses. As we mature, so does
our palate, and perhaps I am now more appreciative of the complexity and strong flavour of these
cheeses than I was before. I would like to share some particularly special ones with you. One of my
favourite sheep’s milk cheeses is Ossau-Iraty from the Pyrenées region (50 per cent fat content). It
has a creamy, yellow, lightly pressed curd, a smooth orange-yellow rind and a pronounced nutty
flavour. It has AOC status and is great as a snack, on canapés or in a salad. I love Crottin de
Chavignol, a goat’s milk cheese made in the sancerre region and containing at least 45 per cent
butterfat. It has a soft centre and a natural crust mottled with white, blue or brown mould. This cheese
can be eaten freshly made, or savoured after it has ripened for three months when it has a more
piquant flavour. I also really like Sainte-Maure de Touraine, a soft, white goat’s milk cheese with
AOC status. It is shaped like a log and has a slightly salty, nutty flavour and a distinctive grey, mouldy
rind. This cheese contains 45 per cent fat and has a very unusual feature – a piece of straw running
through the middle, which leaves a slight dry-hay aftertaste and reminds me of harvest time in late
summer. Another of my favourite goat’s cheeses is Pouligny-Saint-Pierre from the Berry region. It
has a smooth curd and a natural rind with a bluish tinge. Made on a farm and awarded an AOC label,
it is best from April to November. It is a firm cheese with a strong flavour and, unusually, it is
pyramid-shaped.
Nowadays we are very lucky, because in many countries, as in France, more and more fabulous
regional cheeses are being crafted by passionate producers on their own small farms. I’m sure you’ll
agree, we must protect and support them, and recognize their efforts by buying from them directly, or
from markets. For me, this is what it is all about – being able to choose and be recommended that
special cheese, hand-made traditionally and passed down through generations, not made in a factory
where there is no soul, no history, no passion.
The recipes in this book will help you to start on your journey to explore the vast range of cheeses
available. But you cannot serve cheese without its best friend – wine. What a match, what a duo, what
a great end to a meal! Why not turn them into a great meal on their own by serving them with warm,
fresh bread – surely there is nothing better!
Coulommiers, Morbier, Vacherin Mont d’Or, Éoisses, Fourme d’Ambert, Pouligny-Saint-Pierre, Crottin de Chavignol
Fougerus, Livarot, Sainte-Maure de Touraine, Ossau-Iraty, Vieux Parmesan, Vieux Comté

Le gâteau de Suzanne
SUZANNE’S CAKE
Suzanne was actually my great aunt, but I think her cakes alone were enough to earn her the title of
Grand-Mère! she always used to say it was the quality of the farm eggs that made them taste so good
– the yolks were a deep orange colour – and they gave her cake such lightness and flavour. My father
loved going to Grand-Mère’s. The first thing he did when he got there was look for the cakes. Grand-
Mère liked to hide them so she could tease us that she hadn’t made any, but we always knew she had
because of the incredible aromas wafting around the kitchen.
Preparation time 20 minute
140g/5oz butter, slightly melted, plus extra for greasing

450g/1lb/heaped 3½ cups plain flour, plus extra for dusting
8 eggs
110g/3¾oz/½ cup granulated white sugar
a pinch of salt
250ml/9fl oz/1 cup 2 tbsp crème fraîche
2 tsp baking powder
icing sugar, for dusting
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Grease a 22cm/8½in cake ring with butter and dust it with
flour.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, sugar and salt together until frothy. Add the crème fraîche and butter
and mix with a wooden spoon until it is all incorporated and the mixture is smooth. Add the flour and
baking powder and keep mixing until it is smooth again. Pour the mixture into the baking tin and bake
in the preheated oven for 40–45 minutes or until cooked. A tip of a sharp knife inserted into the centre
should come out hot and dry.
Switch the oven off, open the door slightly and leave the cake inside for a further 8–10 minutes so that
it settles without sinking. Remove from the oven and turn out on to a wire rack to cool. To serve,
carefully transfer to a serving plate and dust with icing sugar. Simple and delicious!
Clafoutis à la framboise
RASPBERRY CLAFOUTIS
Originating in the Limousin region, clafoutis soon spread throughout France to become a popular
dessert in brasseries all over the country. Traditionally, a clafoutis is made with cherries, but the
summer brings an abundance of fruit – tender apricots, juicy plums, fat cherries and wild
blackberries, all warm from the sun and begging to be eaten. You can make a delicious clafoutis with
any of these, but my favourite is raspberry. The sweetness of the berries and the zing of the lime zest
send your taste buds twirling!
250–280g/9–10oz/2–2¼ cups firm raspberries

zest of 1 lime
125g/4½oz/½ cup caster sugar
50g/2oz butter, half softened and half melted
85g/3oz/ cup plain flour
a pinch of salt
1 egg
1 egg yolk
300ml/10½fl oz/scant 1¼ cups full fat milk
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Put the raspberries, lime zest and 2 tablespoons of the sugar
in a bowl. Mix gently, then set aside to macerate for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, grease a 24 × 16 ×
6cm/9½ × 6¼ × 2½in baking dish or clafoutis dish (an oval earthenware dish) with the softened
butter and sprinkle with another 3 tablespoons of the sugar. Carefully shake the sugar around the dish
to make sure it coats the inside.
Sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg, egg yolk and
remaining sugar, then slowly add the mixture to the flour and mix until incorporated and smooth.
Slowly add the milk, stirring until the batter has the consistency of a crêpe batter, then add the melted
butter and mix until combined.
Put the raspberries in the clafoutis dish and mix to release the juices. Pour the batter over the
raspberries and bake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes until golden brown and set. A tip of a sharp
knife inserted into the centre should come out clean and dry. Remove from the oven and serve.
CHEF’S TIP: It is also fun to make this dessert in individual 150ml/5fl oz/ cup ramekin dishes,
just reduce the cooking time to 10–12 minutes.
Crêpes soufflées à l’orange
ORANGE SOUFFLÉ PANCAKES
Sunday evening is a favourite time for making pancakes in our house, and orange soufflé pancakes are
a fantastic change to the ‘crêpe’ served with sugar or jam, and a delicious treat. The soufflé mixture,
placed in the top pocket of the folded pancake, is sweet, sharp, light and utterly sublime.
Preparation time 30 minutes, plus resting and making the custard
Cooking time 1 hour
300ml/10½fl oz/scant 1¼ cup milk

½ vanilla pod
125g/4½oz/1 cup plain flour
2 tbsp vanilla sugar
a pinch of salt
2 eggs
juice and grated zest of ½ orange
1 tbsp orange liqueur, such as Cointreau or Mandarin imperial
40g/1½oz butter, melted, plus extra for frying, if needed
icing sugar, to serve
ORANGE SOUFFLÉ MIX

4 egg whites, beaten
40g/1½oz/scant ¼ cup caster sugar
2 tbsp Vanilla Custard (see page 24)
juice and grated zest of ½ orange
In a small saucepan, warm the milk over a low heat for 2–3 minutes. Cut the vanilla pod in half and
scrape the seeds into the warmed milk, add the pieces of pod and leave to infuse for 30 minutes.
Discard the vanilla pods.
Put the flour, vanilla sugar, salt, eggs, orange juice and zest, and liqueur in a bowl. Add one-third of
the milk mixture and the melted butter and whisk until smooth. Alternatively, just pop it all into a
blender if that’s easier for you and blend for 2–3 minutes. Slowly whisk or blend in the remaining
milk. Make sure that there are no lumps in the batter and that the consistency is quite runny so your
pancakes will be thin and light. If you do it gradually like this, you won’t have to let the batter rest.
Heat a non-stick pancake pan or a 15–18cm/6–7in-wide non-stick frying pan over a medium to high
heat. (Using a non-stick pan means you won’t have to add butter before cooking the pancakes, as you
already have some in the batter, though of course it can make flipping the pancakes easier if you do.)
Using a ladle, put enough batter in the pan to thinly cover the base, tilting the pan, if necessary. Cook
for 1–1½ minutes. Then comes the fun part – try to flip it. Use a spatula if you want to stay on the safe
side. Cook for a further 1–2 minutes on the other side, then transfer to a plate and set aside at room
temperature. You should be able to make about 12–15 pancakes.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6. To make the soufflé mix, put the egg whites and sugar in a
bowl and beat with an electric mixer for 8–10 minutes (or whisk by hand) until firm. Put the custard
in another bowl and whisk in half the egg white mixture to make a smooth paste, then fold in the
remaining egg white mixture. It should be silky but firm.
Fold each pancake in half, then in half again. Put them in a non-stick baking tray, making sure they’re
not too close together so they have room to grow. Lift the top layer of each pancake and spoon the
soufflé mix into it. Bake in the preheated oven for 8–10 minutes until the pancakes rise like a soufflé
but stay firm. Remove from the oven, dust with icing sugar and serve immediately. Once you start
eating these, you’ll never want to stop!
Crème au café caramelisée
COFFEE CRÈME CARAMEL
Luxurious, smooth crème caramels – make them in the morning and they’ll be set and ready in time for
dinner. It’s worth it just to see the look on your guests’ faces when you appear with a blowtorch to
finish them off (the crème caramels, not the guests!). I’ve made them here with coffee, but you can
substitute the coffee with many other flavourings and spices, such as vanilla, cinnamon, chocolate,
lemongrass and star anise.
Cooking time 1 hour
175g/6oz/heaped ¾ cup caster sugar

250ml/9fl oz/1 cup milk
15g/½oz/¼ cup instant coffee granules
3 eggs
2 egg yolks
40g/1½oz soft brown sugar, to caramelize (optional)
Have ready four 150ml/5fl oz/ cup ovenproof pots (or six 100ml/3½fl oz/½ cup pots if you want to
serve smaller portions). Put 100g/3½oz/scant ½ cup of the caster sugar in a small heavy-based
saucepan and melt over a medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon until it melts and turns a pale
caramel colour. Immediately pour it into the pots and swirl them around to coat the base and sides
with the hot caramel. Use a tea towel to protect your hands. Leave to cool completely.
Preheat the oven to 110°C/225°F/gas ½ and line a deep baking dish with greaseproof paper. The
paper will direct the bubbles away from the pots, providing a more gentle cooking process so the
custard doesn’t curdle. Combine the milk, cream, coffee granules and 50g/1¾oz/scant ¼ cup of the
caster sugar in a saucepan and gently bring to the boil over a low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar
and coffee. In another bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks and remaining caster sugar for 1–2
minutes until pale and the sugar has dissolved. Pour the boiling milk mixture into the egg mixture,
whisking as you go.
Divide the mixture into the pots and put them in the baking dish, then pour enough warm water into the
dish to come half way up the sides of the pots (this is called a bainmarie). Put the bainmarie in the
preheated oven and bake for 45 minutes or until the tip of a sharp knife inserted into the centre of a
pot comes out clean. If necessary, return to the oven and cook for a further 5–10 minutes. Remove
from the oven and transfer the pots to a wire rack to cool completely. Cover with cling film, then
refrigerate for a minimum of 4 hours.
I like to caramelize the creams before serving. If you want to do this, you will need a bit of courage
and a blowtorch! Sprinkle the tops of the pots with the brown sugar and caramelize with the
blowtorch for a few seconds. If you haven’t got a blowtorch, you can pop them under a hot grill for
about 1 minute.
Mousse au chocolat noir et zest d’orange
BITTER CHOCOLATE MOUSSE WITH ORANGE ZEST
Everyone needs a little chocolate in their life, or so my wife Claire tells me. The combination of
chocolate and orange is one of my son’s favourites, too, so this dessert never lasts long in our house.
You’ll need a good-quality chocolate for this: I recommend 66%– 70% pure cocoa, which has a
slight bitterness and a hint of spice. One thing, though, watch out for the chocolate disappearing: it
seems to evaporate in our house whenever my back is turned!
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus 1 hour chilling
1 orange
90g/3¼oz/heaped cup caster sugar
100g/3½oz plain chocolate (66–70% cocoa solids), chopped into small pieces
3 egg yolks
150ml/5fl oz/scant cup double cream
1 tbsp icing sugar
Pare the zest from the orange into fine strips using a zester or a small, sharp knife, cutting any pith
away. Put the zest in a small saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil over a medium
heat. As soon as it starts to boil, remove from the heat. Refresh under cold water, drain and repeat
this entire process once more.
Using the same pan, return the zest to the pan and add 2 tablespoons of the caster sugar and 3
tablespoons water, stirring to dissolve. Bring to the boil and cook for 4–5 minutes, or until the zest
becomes transparent, then leave the zest strips to cool in the syrup. When cold, drain and set aside.
To make the chocolate mousse, put 75g/2½oz of the chocolate in a heatproof bowl and rest it over a
saucepan of gently simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water.
Heats for 4–5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chocolate has melted, then remove from the heat
and keep warm. In a separate heatproof bowl, mix together the remaining sugar, egg yolks and 2
tablespoons warm water. Rest the bowl over the saucepan of gently simmering water, making sure the
bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Beat the mixture for 8–10 minutes until it turns pale,
thickens and forms ribbon-like shapes when you lift the whisk and the mixture falls back into the
bowl. Slowly stir in the melted chocolate until well combined.
In another bowl, whip the cream and icing sugar until soft to medium peaks form, then gently fold it
into the chocolate and egg mixture until you obtain a lovely, smooth mixture, taking care not to
overwork it. Divide the mousse into four glasses, glass dishes or large ramekins. Cover with cling
film and chill for 1 hour before serving. If chilled for longer, remove from the fridge 30 minutes
before serving.
Just before serving, melt the remaining chocolate in a heatproof bowl over simmering water. Swirl
the chocolate over each mousse, then top with the orange zest and serve.
Crème brûlée à la purée de framboises
CRÈME BRÛLÉE WITH RASPBERRY PURÉE
This is one of my favourite desserts – I just love the intriguing contrast between the cold, creamy
custard and the brittle, hot layer of caramelized sugar. For me, crème brûlée is particularly delicious
served with a fruit purée – raspberry and blackberry are both sensational. They bring the perfect
acidity needed to balance the richness – just as you’re being lulled into luxury by the sugar and cream,
a sharp burst of summer fruit explodes in your mouth. It’s a wonderfully decadent treat.
Preparation time 30 minute
4 egg yolks
80g/2¾oz/ cup caster sugar
270ml/9½fl oz/1 cup double cream
25g/1oz/2 tbsp soft brown sugar, for sprinkling
RASPBERRY PURÉE
100g/3½oz/scant 1 cup raspberries
grated zest of 1 lime
2 tbsp caster sugar
First make the raspberry purée. Put the raspberries, lime zest and sugar in a bowl and mix gently
using a fork. Set aside to macerate for about 15 minutes, then crush the mixture into a purée, using a
fork. There’s no need to pass it through a sieve as you want to keep the seeds to give the purée more
flavour.
Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/gas 2 and line a deep baking dish with greaseproof paper. The
paper will direct the bubbles away from the pots, providing a more gentle cooking process so the
custard doesn’t curdle. Whisk the egg yolks and caster sugar together in a heatproof bowl until
smooth. Gently heat the cream in a saucepan over a low heat, then slowly pour it into the egg yolks,
whisking as you go. Make sure it is smooth with no lumps, otherwise you’ll end up with scrambled
egg.
Divide the purée equally into four 150ml/5fl oz/ cup ramekins, then divide the egg and sugar
mixture equally into the ramekins and put them in the deep baking dish. Pour enough warm water into
the tray to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins (this is called a bainmarie) and place the
bainmarie in the preheated oven. Bake the brûlées for 35–40 minutes until set but still slightly
trembling when shaken, then remove from the oven and transfer the ramekins to a wire rack to cool
until set.
Preheat the grill to high. Sprinkle the brûlées with the brown sugar and put them on a baking sheet.
Grill for 2–3 minutes until the sugar is caramelized. Serve immediately.
AUTHOR ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I would like to thank the following people:
My family, for all their support and friendship; my suppliers: Eric Charriaux at Premier Cheese,
Martin at Channel Fisheries, the Bread Factory and John Piper at Oakleaf Ltd.; Jane and her team, for
providing me with a Thermomix, to help with some of the recipes – it‘s a great tool; The Vineyard
management, my head chef, Frédéric, and my team for allowing me time out to do the book and
photoshoot; my agent, Rosemary Melbourne, for her support; the team at the HHB Agency, especially
Heather Holden-Brown for her constant support and cheerful nature, and for putting up with me; my
publishers: Duncan, Grace, Manisha, Camilla and the rest of the gang for their enormous patience, for
having faith in me and for their guidance to see the project through; the photographer Yuki, for her
wonderful talent, her sense of humour and for keeping me on track; Aya, my assistant, who‘s a great
cook and lots of fun, and who bosses me around (with good reason!) – it‘s super to work with her;
Heston Blumenthal for his foreword, his friendship and for always being such a gentleman; James
Martin for sending me such a lovely note and for being my friend; my dad, Daniel Senior, for passing
on to me all his passion and respect for nature; and finally two very special people: my son Antoine,
for being who he is – beautiful, funny, and loving life and food; and my wife Claire, for being there
throughout the project and helping me to translate from my “franglais” into lovely, readable text.
Without her, her patience, her friendship and her Italian charm, it would have been a much bigger
challenge.
Daniel Galmiche
First published in the United Kingdom and Ireland in 2011 by

Duncan Baird Publishers Ltd
Sixth Floor, Castle House
75–76 Wells Street
London W1T 3QH
Conceived, created and designed by Duncan Baird Publishers
Copyright © Duncan Baird Publishers 2011

Text copyright © Daniel Galmiche 2011
Photography copyright © Duncan Baird Publishers 2011
The right of Daniel Galmiche to be identified as the Author of this text has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and
Patents Act of 1988.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information
storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages in a
review.
Managing Editor: Grace Cheetham

Editors: Camilla Davis and Nicole Bator
French Consultant: Séverine Jeauneau
Managing Designer: Manisha Patel
Production: Uzma Taj
Commissioned Photography: Yuki Sugiura
Photography assistant: Mick English
Food Stylists: Daniel Galmiche with Aya Nishimura
Prop Stylist: Wei Tang
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data: A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library
ISBN: 978-1-84483-992-6
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Typeset in ITC new Baskerville and MetaPlus Colour reproduction by Colourscan, Singapore Printed in China by Imago
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
While every care has been taken in compiling the recipes for this book, Duncan Baird Publishers, or any other persons who have been
involved in working on this publication, cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions, inadvertent or not, that may be found in
the recipes or text, nor for any problems that may arise as a result of preparing one of these recipes. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding
or have any special dietary requirements or medical conditions, it is advisable to consult a medical professional before following any of
the recipes contained in this book. Some wild mushrooms can be fatally poisonous, however you cook them. Neither the publisher nor the
author can take any responsibility for any illness or other unintended consequences resulting from following any of the advice or
suggestions in this book.
NOTES ON THE RECIPES

Unless otherwise stated:
All recipes serve 4
Use medium eggs, fruit and vegetables
Use fresh ingredients, including herbs and chillies
Do not mix metric and imperial measurements
1 tsp = 5ml 1 tbsp = 15ml 1 cup = 250ml

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DANIEL GALMICHE

What is it about brasseries?

So how did it all start?

From region to region

Home from home

A few technical terms

2kg/4lb 8oz chicken wings or bones, or 2 chicken carcasses

1.25kg/2lb 12oz lamb bones, trimmed and prepared by your butcher

1.25kg/2lb 12oz fresh fish bones, flesh removed

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tsp Dijon mustard

Use straightaway or cover and keep in the fridge for up to 1 week.

2 tbsp white wine vinegar

a good pinch of saffron threads

Keep in the fridge and serve cold.

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

125g/4½oz unsalted butter, roughly diced and softened to room temperature

175g/6oz butter, softened

125g/4½oz butter, roughly diced and softened to room temperature

1l/35fl oz/4 cups full fat milk

500ml/17fl oz/2 cups full fat milk

125g/4½oz/1 cup plain flour

4 tbsp olive oil

Serve with croûtons and saffron mayonnaise.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF BREAD

175g/6oz/1½ cups small pitted black olives

VARIATION: GREEN OLIVE TAPENADE

200g/7oz salted anchovy fillets

90ml/3fl oz/ cup olive oil, plus extra as needed

3 aubergines, halved lengthways

40g/1½oz butter, softened

500g/1lb 2oz asparagus, woody ends discarded, peeled if tough

100g/3½oz cooked crab meat

2 whole mackerel, about 400g/14oz each, filleted

Squeeze the lime over the mackerel and serve.

300g/10½oz pork shoulder, cut into 2.5/1in cubes

8 large duck legs, 150g/5½oz each

Serve with crusty bread.

1 head of yellow chicory

60g/2¼oz butter, softened

2 tbsp sunflower oil

LEMON & HERB BUTTER

800g/1lb 12oz beef brisket, cut into large cubes

1 small shallot, finely chopped

Divide the mixture into 4, shape into patties and serve.

4 calves’ livers, about 150g/5½oz each and 1cm/½in thick

2 lamb fillets or loin of lamb, fully trimmed

4 small lamb shanks

Serve hot with creamed mashed potatoes and ratatouille provençale.

1.5kg/3lb 5oz leg of lamb

1 garlic bulb, unpeeled and halved horizontally

400g/14oz smoked pork shoulder or pancetta

2 tbsp sunflower oil

300g/10½oz/1½ cups dried white haricot beans

600g/1lb 5oz black pudding

A BRIEF HISTORY OF CHARCUTERIE

2-3 tbsp flour, for dusting

1 large chicken, about 1.5-1.8kg/3lb 5oz-4lb