How to Sew by Hand: Seven Basic Stitches by Brittney Smart | Published on Jun 21, 2023

Hand sewing is a useful skill that many people lack, but it’s also easy to learn. Learning how to sew by hand will
empower you to make basic clothing alterations, fix torn fabric, and tackle your own hand-sewn craft projects.

How to Sew: Tools Needed

• Hand-sewing thread or embroidery floss in the
appropriate color/type
• Hand sewing needle
• Fabric
• Sharp scissors
• Needle threader (if you require one)

The Most Common Basic Hand Stitches

• Running Baste Stitch
• Running Stitch
• Catch Stitch
• Blanket Stitch
• Whip Stitch
• Slip Stitch/Ladder Stitch
• Back Stitch

How to Sew: Running Baste Stitch

STITCH USE: The running baste stitch is useful to temporarily

hold two pieces of fabric together. You can also use running
baste stitches or basting stitches for hemming clothes, hand-
gathering pleats, or sewing basic seams. The running stitch
creates a much stronger seam than the running baste stitch,
but the latter is much faster to sew.

First, thread your needle through the loop, and tie a knot at the
end of your thread.

Place the tip of your needle on the wrong side of your fabric, and
press it upward through the fabric at your starting point. Pull the
thread until the knot hits the back side of the fabric.

About 1/2″ to 3/4″ away, press the tip of your needle straight
down through the right side of the fabric. Don’t pull the needle
all the way through.
 Keeping the needle in the fabric, push the needle forward until
the tip reaches the same 1/2″ to 3/4″ distance. Press the tip
upward through the fabric at that point.

Then, pull the needle and thread through the fabric.

Pull the thread all the way through and taut.

Next, press the tip of the needle down through the fabric
another 1/2″ to 3/4” away from the exit point of your last stitch,
and repeat the basting stitch.

Continue
working in this
wide, even,
and straight-
basting stitch.

How to Sew: Running Stitch

STITCH USE: The straight running stitch is the most

fundamental of seams. You can adjust the length of each stitch
to match your project’s needs. Keep in mind that the shorter
each stitch is, the stronger your overall seam will be.

First, place the end of the thread through the eye of the needle
and knot your thread at the end. Next, press the tip of your
needle on the wrong side of your fabric, and bring the needle
up through to the top until the knot touches the back of the
fabric.
Then, in the same method as your running baste stitch, maneuver the tip of your needle above and below the
fabric to create the stitches.

Because the running stitch is small, you can probably weave two or three stitches onto the needle before pulling
the needle and threading through the fabric.
Working in two- or three-stitch needle lengths like this is an efficient way to sew this straight line.
Pull the needle and thread through the fabric, and pull it taut before moving on to the next set of stitches

How to Sew: Catch Stitch

STITCH USE: The catch stitch is a great stitch choice for a blind
hem or invisible seam. The “X” nature of this stitch provides a
little give to the hem. Another useful place for this stitch is to
attach heavier lining fabrics to the hemline, such as sewing on
curtain linings.

First, thread the needle and knot the thread at the end. Press
the tip of your needle on the opposite fold of your fabric hem,
and bring the needle up through to the top of the fabric until the
knot touches the back of the fabric. Your needle and thread
should be on the left side of your fabric.

Place the tip of your needle about 1/2″ to 3/4″ above your exit
thread (on the other piece of fabric), then move it to the right
about 1/8”. Press the needle tip down through your fabric. Aim
the tip of the needle about 1/8” to the left.

Pull the needle and thread up to the top of your fabric, and pull
the thread taut.

To create the “X” over the previous stitch that is the signature
of the catch stitch, press the tip of your needle about 1/2″ to the
right of your very first thread exit. Press the tip of the needle
down to the underside of your fabric, then bring it back to the
top of your fabric about 1/8” to the right.

Next, pull the whole needle and thread through, and pull the
thread taut.
 It’s helpful for this stitch to remember that the “top” of the stitch
is a right-to-left stitch, and the “bottom” of the stitch is left-to-
right.

Continue on until you’ve completed the length of your catch

stitch seam.

How to Sew: Blanket Stitch

STITCH USE: Uses of this stitch are finishing the edges of

blankets, felt projects or toys, and sewing appliqué. Where
other stitches tend to blend in, this one is best served when
visible.

First, thread your needle and knot the thread at the end. Begin
sewing by pressing the tip of the needle into the underside of
your fabric about 1/2″ away from the folded edge, and bring the
needle up to the top of the fabric.

Next, pull the entire needle and thread through the top of the
fabric until the hidden knot touches the underside of the fabric.

For this first stitch, loop the thread around the hemline and
press the tip of your needle onto the underside of your fabric
at the same spot you just came through. Pull the needle and
thread through this same hole.

Then, pull the thread but don’t pull it all the way taut. Instead,
keep a small loop of thread out.
 Take your needle and run it through the loop, going left to right.

Pull the thread taut. Your free thread should meet up with your
stitch at the hemline (shown by a red dot on the photo).

Press the tip of your needle on the underside of your fabric

about 1/2″ to the left of your original thread exit and also 1/2″
away from the hemline.

Pull the entire needle through to the top of your fabric, and pull
your thread until a small loop remains.

Next, thread your needle through this loop, running left to right.

Pull the thread taut until it creates what looks like a square without a top.

In the blanket stitch, each stitch holds the previous one in position and in place.
How to Sew: Whip Stitch

STITCH USE: The whip stitch is a simple and satisfying stitch

because it’s fast and easy. The short, diagonal stitches are
used for hemming things like window treatments because
they’re almost invisible when done on a hem.

First, thread your needle and knot the thread at the end. Bring
the needle up to the top of the fabric from the underside so the
knot is hidden. This stitch is most easily sewn vertically.

Then, press the tip of your needle into the fabric’s two edges
about 1/2″ diagonally above-right your original exit point. Then
aim your needle, from the underside of the fabric, about 1/2”
above-left (back to the original fabric hem).

Next, pull the whole needle and thread through to the top of the
original fabric, and pull the thread taut.

Continue this method (diagonal-right, diagonal-left) to create a

barbershop pole-looking seam.

Due to the diagonal nature of these stitches, it’s easy for your
stitches to become more and more uneven in length and
spacing. However, do your best to keep them consistent,
referring back to your original stitches as needed to make sure
they stay the same further up the seam.
How to Sew: Slip Stitch/Ladder Stitch

STITCH USE: The slip stitch (or “ladder stitch”) is used for
closing up homemade pillows. When you choose a thread that
matches your fabric, the stitch becomes invisible.

First, thread your needle and knot the end of your thread.

Take your threaded needle and press the tip onto the underside
of your fabric up in one of the folds. Next, pull the needle and
thread all the way through so the knot is invisible.

Then, press the tip of your needle on the opposite hem directly
across from the original exit point. Push the tip of the needle
into the fabric so that the tip of the needle follows the hem
inside the fold.

Exit the needle tip from the hem fold about 1/2″ to 3/4″ away
from the insertion point.

Pull the whole needle and thread out from the folded hem, and
pull the thread taut. This will close up the first “rung” of your
ladder stitch.

Now, press the tip of your needle onto the opposite hem (the
one with your original exit point) directly across from this most
recent exit point.

Thread the tip of the needle through the folded hem about 1/2″
to 3/4″ away from the insertion point, then exit the needle.
Pull the whole needle and thread out, and pull it taut. It’s looking a little like a ladder, with each stitch serving as
a rung between the two vertical hems.

Continue in this way until you’ve completed your slip-stitch seam.

You can see here that I haven’t pulled the thread tight yet. This is to illustrate what the stitch is meant to look
like.

When I give it a quick tug, though, you can see here that the thread all but disappears.
How to Sew: Back Stitch

STITCH USE: The back stitch is not only pretty, but it’s also
strong. Its primary purpose is for sewing seams that require
heavy-duty strength. The back stitch is also used for basic
embroidery and forming letters in stitching.

First, thread your needle and knot the thread at the end. Press
the tip of your needle onto the underside of your fabric about
1/2″ in front of your actual seam starting point (designated by
a red dot in this photo). Pull the whole needle and thread
through to the top of your fabric, and pull the thread so the knot
touches the underside of the fabric.

Next, press the tip of your needle onto the top of your fabric at
the location of your actual seam start, which will be about 1/2″
down from your original exit point.

Pull the whole needle and thread through to the underside of

your fabric, and pull the thread taut.

Press the tip of your needle onto the underside of your fabric
about 1/2″ in front of the original exit point.

Then, pull the whole needle and thread through to the top of
your fabric, and pull the thread taut.

Press the tip of your needle onto the top of your fabric at or very
near the original exit point.
Next, pull the whole needle and thread through to the underside of your fabric. Pull the thread taut to create your
second backstitch.

Continue in this “two steps forward, one step back” method until you’ve completed your back stitch seam.

The straight, solid line of the back stitch is a striking stitch for any DIY project or even fashion design.