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C o nte nts v
22 Vegetables 509
23 Potatoes, Grains and Pasta 559
24 Cooking for Health and Lifestyle 596
25 Salads and Salad Dressings 622
26 Fruits 651
Part 4
Baking
27 Principles of the Bakeshop 684

28 Quick Breads 707
29 Yeast Breads 719
30 Pies, Pastries and Cookies 738
31 Cakes and Frostings 768
32 Custards, Creams, Frozen Desserts and Dessert
Sauces 797
Part 5
Meal Ser vice and P resentat io n
33 Breakfast and Brunch 818

34 Appetizers and Sandwiches 839
35 Beverages 879
36 Plate Presentation 907
A01_LABE3905_07_SE_FM.indd 5 28/12/16 1:05 PM

Conte nt s
Foreword iii
Preface xi Part 2
Key Features xvii P reparat ion
About the Authors xxi
5 Tools and Equipment 71
Standards for Tools and Equipment 72
Part 1 Selecting Tools and Equipment 72
Pr ofe ss ion al is m Hand Tools 73
Knives 74
Measuring and Portioning Devices 76
1 Professionalism 1 Cookware 78
Chefs and Restaurants 2
Strainers and Sieves 81
Influences on Modern Food Service Operations 7
Processing Equipment 82
The Food Service Operation 9
Storage Containers 84
The Professional Chef 11
Heavy Equipment 85
Conclusion 15
Buffet Equipment 88
Questions for Discussion 15
Safety Equipment 90
The Professional Kitchen 91
2 Food Safety and Conclusion 93
Sanitation 16 Questions for Discussion 93
Direct Contamination 18
Cross-Contamination 26 6 Knife Skills 94
HACCP Systems 30 Using Your Knife Safely 95
The Safe Worker 32 Caring for Your Knife 96
Conclusion 33 Gripping Your Knife 96
Questions for Discussion 34 Controlling Your Knife 96
Cutting with Your Knife 98
3 Nutrition 35 Conclusion 107
Essential Nutrients 36 Questions for Discussion 107
Package Labelling 42
Conclusion 47 7 Flavours and Flavourings 108
Questions for Discussion 47 Flavours 109
Flavourings: Herbs and Spices 115
4 Menu Planning and Food Salt 127
Oils 128
Costing 48 Vinegars 131
The Menu 49
Condiments 131
Standardized Recipes 51
Pickling 134
Measurements and Conversions 54
Conclusion 138
Recipe Conversions 56
Calculating Unit Costs and Recipe Costs 59
Yield Tests 60
Food Cost 62 8 Eggs and Dairy Products 139
Establishing Menu Prices 64 Eggs 140
Controlling Food Costs 67 Dairy Products 143
Conclusion 69 Conclusion 159
Questions for Discussion 70 Questions for Discussion 159

C o nte nts vii
Part 3 15 Lamb 321

Primal and Subprimal Cuts of Lamb 322
Cook ing Nutrition 324
Butchering Procedures 324
9 Principles of Cooking 160 Applying Various Cooking Methods 327
Heat Transfer 161 Conclusion 334
The Effects of Heat 163 Questions for Discussion 334
Cooking Methods 165
Conclusion 183
16 Pork 335
Primal and Subprimal Cuts of Pork 336
Nutrition 339
10 Stocks and Sauces 184 Fabricating Procedures 339
Stocks 185 Applying Various Cooking Methods 342
Sauces 197 Conclusion 349
Contemporary Sauces 218 Questions for Discussion 349
Using Sauces 222
Conclusion 224
17 Poultry 350
Muscle Composition 351
Identifying Poultry 352
11 Soups 225 Nutrition 355
Clear Soups 227 Inspection and Grading of Poultry 355
Thick Soups 236 Purchasing and Storing Poultry 356
Other Soups 240 Fabricating Procedures 357
Garnishing Soups 246 Marinating Poultry 361
Soup Service 248 Applying Various Cooking Methods 361
12 Principles of Meat 18 Game 387

Cookery 250 Identifying Game 388
Muscle Composition 251 Nutrition 391
Nutrition 252 Inspection of Game 391
Inspection and Grading of Meats 252 Purchasing and Storing Game 391
Aging Meats 254 Marinating Furred Game 392
Purchasing and Storing Meats 255 Cooking Game 393
Preparing Meats 257 Conclusion 396
Applying Various Cooking Methods 258 Questions for Discussion 397
Conclusion 284
Questions for Discussion 284 19 Fish and Shellfish 398
Structure and Muscle Composition 399
13 Beef 285 Identifying Fish and Shellfish 401
Primal and Subprimal Cuts of Beef 286 Nutrition 411
Nutrition 290 Inspection and Grading of Fish and Shellfish 412
Butchering Procedures 290 Purchasing and Storing Fish and Shellfish 412
Applying Various Cooking Methods 294 Fabricating Procedures 415
Conclusion 302 Applying Various Cooking Methods 424
Questions for Discussion 302 Conclusion 447
14 Veal 303
Primal and Subprimal Cuts of Veal 304 20 Charcuterie 448
Nutrition 307 Forcemeats and Their Uses 449
Butchering Procedures 307 Using Forcemeats 457
Applying Various Cooking Methods 312 Salt-Curing, Brining and Smoking 469

viii Contents
21 International Flavour Applying Various Cooking Methods 672

Conclusion 683
Principles 476 Questions for Discussion 683
Chinese Cuisines 477
Japanese Cuisine 483
Indian Cuisines 485
North African and Middle Eastern Cuisines 489 Part 4
Mexican Cuisine 493 Baking
South American and Caribbean Cuisine 498
Canada’s Indigenous Cuisines 504 27 Principles of the Bakeshop 684
Conclusion 508 Bakeshop Tools and Equipment 685
Questions for Discussion 508 Ingredients 686
Measuring Ingredients 703
22 Vegetables 509 Mixing Methods 704
Identifying Vegetables 510 The Baking Process 704
Nutrition 532 Conclusion 706
Purchasing and Storing Fresh Vegetables 532 Questions for Discussion 706
Purchasing and Storing Preserved Vegetables 534
Applying Various Cooking Methods 536 28 Quick Breads 707
Conclusion 558 Chemical Leavening Agents 708
Questions for Discussion 558 Mixing Methods 709
Nutrition 717
23 Potatoes, Grains and Pasta 559 Conclusion 717
Potatoes 560 Questions for Discussion 718
Grains 571
Pasta 582 29 Yeast Breads 719
Conclusion 594 Yeast 720
Questions for Discussion 595 Production Stages for Yeast Breads 723
Rolled-in Doughs 731
24 Cooking for Health and Qualities of Bread 735
Nutrition 736
Lifestyle 596 Conclusion 736
Eating for Health 597
Ingredient Substitutes and Alternatives 598
Consumer Concerns about Food
and Nutrition 608 30 Pies, Pastries and Cookies 738
Nutrition and the Chef 609 Pies and Tarts 739
Variations on Vegetarianism 610 Classic Pastries 752
The Vegetarian Diet 612 Cookies 760
Ingredients for Vegetarian Cooking 613 Conclusion 766
Vegetarian Cuisine: Rebalancing the Centre of the Questions for Discussion 767
Plate 616
Conclusion 621
31 Cakes and Frostings 768
Cakes 769
Frostings 783
25 Salads and Salad Dressings 622 Assembling and Decorating Cakes 790
Salad Greens 623 Conclusion 796
Salad Dressings 629 Questions for Discussion 796
Preparation Methods 638
Conclusion 650
32 Custards, Creams, Frozen
Desserts and Dessert
26 Fruits 651 Sauces 797
Identifying Fruits 652 Custards 798
Nutrition 668 Creams 807
Purchasing Fresh Fruits 669 Frozen Desserts 811
Purchasing and Storing Preserved Fruits 670 Dessert Sauces 814
Assembling Desserts 816

C o nte nts ix
Nutrition and Lifestyle 816 Sandwiches 865
35 Beverages 879
Part 5 Water 880
Me al Se r vice and Juice 881
Pr e se n tation Coffee 882
Tea, Tisanes and Related Beverages 886
Hot Chocolate and Hot Cocoa 890
33 Breakfast and Brunch 818 Wines, Beers, Brandies, Liquors and Liqueurs 891
Beverages 819 Conclusion 906
Fruits 819 Questions for Discussion 906
Breads 820
Potatoes 820
Dairy Products 820 36 Plate Presentation 907
Eggs 821 The Food 908
Breakfast Meats 831 The Plate 911
Griddlecakes and French Toast 832 Small Plates 916
Cereals and Grains 835 Additional Plate Presentations 918
Breakfast Smoothies 836 Culinary Competition Presentation 919
Nutrition 837 Conclusion 919
Conclusion 838 Questions for Discussion 920
Glossary 921
34 Appetizers and Sandwiches 839 Recommended Reading 942
Hors d’Oeuvre 840 Index 948
Appetizers or First Courses 857 Recipe Index 964

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C o nte nts xi
Pre face
Welcome to the seventh Canadian edition of On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary

Fundamentals with MyCulinaryLab. Learning to cook entails much more than
simply learning to follow a recipe. This edition focuses on culinary principles,
with supporting recipes in the text and available as PDF files in MyCulinaryLab.
MyCulinaryLab also includes Pearson Kitchen Manager, a recipe program with a
recipe bank (including all of the recipes that appear in the text) as well as scaling,
conversion and costing tools.
We have carefully checked the coverage in the text to ensure that it addresses
the Interprovincial Standards Red Seal Program. The Red Seal Program was estab-
lished more than 55 years ago to provide greater mobility across Canada to skilled
workers. Today, it represents a standard of excellence for the culinary industry in
Canada recognized federally with the Red Seal Endorsement (R.S.E.) professional
designation. Mastering the concepts, skills and techniques in On Cooking will pro-
vide you with all of the tools you need to succeed in your Red Seal examination
and in your career.
This book is illustrated extensively with photographs and line illustrations to
help you identify foods and equipment. The emphasis is on culinary principles,
not recipes. Whenever possible, we focus on the general procedure, highlighting
fundamental principles and skills, whether it be for preparing a yeast bread or
grilling a piece of fish. We discuss both the how and the why of cooking. Only then
are specific applications and sample recipes given, with a focus on basic recipes.
Many recipes include photographs of the finished dish, ready for service; many
procedures are illustrated with step-by-step photographs.
To provide you with a sense of the rich tradition of cookery, informative side-
bars on food history, chefs’ profiles and other topics are scattered throughout the
book. Additional chapters on MyCulinaryLab explore mise en place and buffet
presentation. Hotel and restaurant chefs and chef instructors from across Canada
have contributed recipes to this program. These recipes allow you to explore the
different techniques and styles used by a range of professionals and help to char-
acterize Canadian cuisine.
We wish you much success in your culinary career and hope that this text will
continue to inform and inspire you long after graduation.
Approach and Philosophy of On Cooking
On Cooking, Seventh Canadian edition, follows the model established in our pre-
vious editions, which have prepared thousands of students for successful careers
in the culinary arts by building a strong foundation based on sound fundamental
techniques. Students and instructors alike praise On Cooking for its comprehensive
yet accessible coverage of culinary skills and cooking procedures.
On Cooking starts with general procedures, highlighting fundamental principles
and skills, and then presents specific applications and sample recipes. Core cooking
principles are explained as the background for learning proper cooking techniques.
The culinary arts are shown in cultural and historical context as well, so that stu-
dents understand how different techniques form the basis for various cuisines. Once
mastered, these techniques can be used to cook a wide array of foods. Instructors
can use the additional recipes available on MyCulinaryLab, both as PDFs and in
Kitchen Manager, to add to the many recipes already contained in the text.

xii p r e fac e
Chapters focus on five areas that are essential to a well-rounded culinary

professional:
• Professionalism: Background chapters introduce students to the field with
material on food history, food safety, nutrition and menu planning. Food safety
information has been updated to reflect the most recent regulations.
• Preparation: On Cooking covers the core subjects with which all culinary
students should be familiar before stepping into the kitchen. Equipment and
basic knife skills are presented. Staple ingredients such as eggs, dairy products,
herbs and spices are covered.
• Cooking: Fundamental cooking techniques are explained and then demon-
strated with a wide range of recipes. Individual chapters focus on different
categories of key ingredients: meats, poultry, fish, vegetables and so forth. A
separate chapter on lifestyle cooking focuses on healthy eating, including food
allergies, gluten-free cooking and vegetarian cuisine.
• Baking: Several chapters cover the aspects of bread and pastry making that
every student should know. The material is sufficient to support a stand-alone
unit on bread baking and dessert preparation.
• Meal Service and Presentation: Brunch and appetizers are covered, and a
separate chapter on beverages includes discussions of water, juice, coffee and
tea as well as wine and food pairings. A final chapter on plate presentation
demonstrates traditional and contemporary techniques for enhancing the visual
presentation of food.
New to the Seventh Canadian Edition

The following changes have been made to the structure and organization of
the text:
• One of the biggest changes made in this edition is the addition of many more
recipes to illustrate core competencies and various cooking methods. Having
these recipes in the text, right where a cooking method or procedure is dis-
cussed, provides quick and easy access for students and instructors.
• Chapter 21, which used to cover Buffet Presentation, now covers International
Flavour Principles, including material on Chinese, Japanese, Indian, North
African (including Ethiopian), Middle Eastern, South American, Caribbean
and Canadian Indigenous cuisines. This change reflects the increasing use
of new ingredients by many chefs and the varied menus that are now found
at many restaurants. The chapter on Buffet Presentation is still available on
MyCulinaryLab.
• Over 300 additional recipes are found on MyCulinaryLab, included as PDF
files so they are easy to locate, view and/or print.
• All recipes that are available on MyCulinaryLab are listed in the recipe index as
well as at the end of each chapter, making it easy for students to find and try
these additional recipes.
New information and topics in the text include the following:
• emphasis throughout the text on healthy cooking and nutrition, including
healthful fat options and discussion on reducing refined sugar in cooking
(Chapters 3 and 24 in particular)
• enhanced focus throughout on local farm-to-table movements (see Chapter 22
especially)
• a discussion on the various career paths open to culinary graduates, including
some outside the kitchen (Chapter 1)
• updated information from the Canadian Food Inspection Agency and Health
Canada, including up-to-date labelling regulations (Chapter 3)
• expanded information on recipe writing (Chapter 4)

p r e fac e xiii
• expanded discussion on pickling techniques, including recipes (Chapter 7)
• expanded discussion on a number of cooking methods, including rotisserie;
molecular gastronomy, including a recipe (Chapter 9); sous vide, including
two recipes: pork (Chapter 16) and salmon (Chapter 19); and deep-fat frying,
including a recipe (Chapter 16)
• a discussion on emulsions (Chapter 10)
• information on quality claims and the rules surrounding what claims producers
are legally allowed to make (Chapter 12)
• new tools and technologies, such as combitherm ovens (Chapter 12)
• updated information on beef cuts being promoted by Canada Beef (Chapter 13)
• updated information on purchasing sustainable seafood from the Ocean Wise
and Seafood Watch programs (Chapter 19)
• a new recipe for Genoa Salami (Chapter 20) that meets stringent food safety
protocols outlined by the CFIA
• information on how to modify recipes to be more healthful (Chapter 24)
• updated information on food allergies (Chapter 24)
• information on new ingredients that are becoming popular, such as flax
(Chapter 24) and Haskap berries, which are being grown in Saskatchewan
(Chapter 26)
• updated information on “new” bakeshop ingredients, including sugar and fat
substitutes, substituting different flours, and alternative thickeners (Chapter 27)
• information on breakfast smoothies (Chapter 33)
• information on teas in Canada (Chapter 35)
• many more photos of contemporary plate presentation (Chapter 36)
A Note on the Recipes

Recipes are important and useful as a means of standardizing food preparation and
recording information. We include recipes that are primarily designed to reinforce
and explain techniques and procedures presented in the text. Many recipe yields
have been standardized to yield no more than 10 servings, although some variety
has been maintained to accommodate different needs.
All ingredients are listed in both metric and U.S. measurements. The metric recipes
have been written to reinforce the simplicity and accuracy of the system. Weights for
ingredients are used to make food costing easier and to professionalize the recipes.
Accurate electronic scales are readily available and inexpensive. U.S. equivalents
have been left in volume measures in most cases; note that ounces by weight and
fluid ounces are not the same. You should not directly compare the metric conver-
sions against the U.S. measurements; they are not intended to be identical and adjust-
ments have been made. We strongly recommend that you work only in one system,
as switching back and forth leads to disappointment with the end product. Each
product is unique and there are no magic conversions that work across the spectrum.
Temperature requirements may vary depending on equipment and altitudes. Dif-
ferent ovens will be more or less efficient in maintaining proper temperature, and
oven temperature calibrations need to be verified on a regular basis. The tempera-
tures given in recipes should be used as a guideline and adjusted for these factors.
Note that metric recipes tend to use finer calibrations, whereas U.S. measurements
tend to work in increments of 25°F. Cooking times also may vary depending on the
quality of the meat being prepared or other factors.
Throughout the text, standards from the Canadian Food Inspection Agency
(CFIA) and Health Canada have been upheld, although real-world practices and
customer preferences are also considered.
Throughout the text, unless otherwise noted, mirepoix refers to a preparation
of 2 parts onion, 1 part celery and 1 part carrot by weight; pepper refers to ground
black pepper, preferably freshly ground; butter refers to whole, unsalted butter; and
TT means “to taste.”

xiv p r e fac e
A nutritional analysis is provided with each recipe. This information is provided

as a reference only. Nutrient values have been standardized to CFIA Nutrition Facts
Table rounding guidelines. There is a 20% margin of error, due primarily to choices
for specific ingredients and variations in the size of fruits and vegetables. When a
recipe offers a choice of ingredients, the first-mentioned ingredient was the one
used in the calculations. Salt listed as “to taste” (TT) has been added at 0.5 g per
serving, unless other ingredients are contributing saltiness to the dish, in which
case the additional salt has been decreased or eliminated. Ingredients listed as “as
needed” are generally omitted from the nutritional analysis. In addition, canola oil
and 2% milk are used throughout for “vegetable oil” and “milk,” respectively. When
the recipe gives a choice of serving or weight, the first mentioned is used.
Recipes marked with the red apple symbol are considered healthful and may be
low in calories, fat, saturated fat and/or sodium; some may also be a good source of
vitamins, protein, fibre or calcium. These dishes are not necessarily dietetic; rather,
they should be consumed as part of a well-balanced diet.
Vegetarian dishes are indicated with the green fruit and vegetable icon. These
recipes do not contain meat, poultry, fish or shellfish, but they may contain dairy
products and/or eggs. Vegetarian dishes are not necessarily low in calories, fat
or sodium, nor are they automatically good sources of vitamins, protein, fibre or
calcium.
Detailed procedures for standard techniques (e.g., “deglaze the pan” or “monter
au beurre”) are presented in the text and generally are not repeated in each recipe.
No matter how detailed the written recipe, we must assume that you have certain
knowledge, skills and judgment.
Variations appear at the end of selected recipes. These give you the opportunity
to see how one set of techniques or procedures can be used to prepare different
dishes with only minor modifications. You should also rely on the knowledge and
skill of your instructor or chef for guidance. While some skills and an understanding
of theory can be acquired through reading and study, no book can substitute for
repeated, hands-on preparation and observation.
Student Supplements
MyCulinaryLab (www.pearsonmylabandmastering.com). A dynamic online tool,
MyCulinaryLab supports the many ways in which students learn, enabling them
to study and master the content online on their own time and at their own pace.
The key features of MyCulinaryLab include the following:
• Pearson eText gives students access to their textbook anytime, anywhere.
In addition to note taking, highlighting and bookmarking, the Pearson eText
offers interactive and sharing features. Instructors can share their comments
or highlights, and students can add their own, creating a tight community of
learners within the class.
• Pearson Kitchen Manager is a custom software application that comes
loaded with all of the recipes in the seventh Canadian edition of On Cooking,
the additional recipes available for this edition through MyCulinaryLab, plus
more than 100 additional recipes at various levels of complexity, including
many contributed by chefs from across the country. The recipes can be scaled
and edited, and new recipes can be added. Kitchen Manager can be used to
build menus, generate shopping lists and calculate estimated costs at the
recipe or menu level.
• Practice exams help students to prepare for the journeyperson’s exam and
the Red Seal exam.
• Chapter quizzes test students’ knowledge of key points. Marks can be sent
to the gradebook, or the quizzes can be used as self-assessment tools for stu-
dents to check their own understanding of the material and concepts in the
textbook.

p r e fac e xv
• Video clips demonstrate various kitchen techniques, such as knife skills.
• Two bonus chapters, Mise en Place and Buffet Presentation, are provided.
• Additional information on food and wine pairings supplements the material
in Chapter 35, Beverages, including sample recipes with wine suggestions and
detailed pairing charts. A chart on pairing beers with cheeses is also available
in this section.
• Information on culinary competitions outlines the benefits of competition
as an extension of learning and highlights opportunities for students and
apprentices.
Study Guide (978-0-13-465871-1). The Study Guide provides an overview of the
key concepts in On Cooking through self-tests, including multiple choice, fill-in-the-
blank, short answer, matching and labelling questions.
Custom Recipes. Students can access additional appropriate recipes on
MyCulinaryLab and Kitchen Manager. These recipes, as well as other recipes
developed in your kitchens and schools, can be used to supplement the recipes
in the text. Many are contributed by chefs and instructors from across the country.
Instructor Supplements
MyCulinaryLab (www.pearsonmylabandmastering.com). MyCulinaryLab is an easy-
to-use online resource designed to supplement a traditional lecture course. It pro-
vides instructors with basic course management capabilities in the areas of course
organization, grades, communication and personalization of content. Instructors
benefit from course management tools such as a robust gradebook, integrated
course email and reporting tools. See the “Student Supplements” section above for
a description of the key content on MyCulinaryLab.
The following supplements are available for download from a password-
protected section of Pearson Canada’s online catalogue (http://catalogue.
pearsoned.ca). Navigate to your book’s catalogue page to view a list of the supple-
ments that are available. Speak to your local Pearson sales representative for details
and access.
• Instructor’s Manual: This manual includes chapter outlines, lists of key terms,
additional discussion questions and learning activities. Selected figures and
tables, along with other key information from the text, are provided as trans-
parency masters that can be reproduced for classroom use.
• Test Item File: Includes more than 1300 test questions, including multiple
choice, fill-in-the-blank, matching and true/false, are provided in Microsoft
Word format.
• PowerPoints: PowerPoint presentations offer outlines of the key concepts in
each chapter as well as images from the text.
Learning Solutions Managers. Pearson’s Learning Solutions Managers work with
faculty and campus course designers to ensure that Pearson technology products,
assessment tools and online course materials are tailored to meet your specific
needs. This highly qualified team is dedicated to helping schools take full advantage
of a wide range of educational resources, by assisting in the integration of a variety
of instructional materials and media formats. Your local Pearson Canada sales rep-
resentative can provide you with more details on this service program.

xvi A c k n o wledgements
Acknowledgments
The authors of the seventh Canadian edition would like to thank a number of
people for their contributions to this edition. At Pearson Canada, the project was
shaped by Kimberley Veevers (Executive Acquisitions Editor), John Polanszky
(Senior Program Manager), and Leanne Rancourt (Developmental Editor). Lila
Campbell (Copy Editor) and Susan Broadhurst (Proofreader) helped to correct and
improve the manuscript. The Canadian version of MyCulinaryLab was overseen by
Nicole Mellow (Senior Developmental Editor).
We are grateful to the many Canadian chefs who have provided recipes for this
and previous Canadian editions of the text. We are indebted to Howard Selig for
his meticulous work on the nutritional analyses for the new and modified recipes.
Special thanks to the following colleagues who have provided input on specific
topics in previous editions: Ken Harper of Vancouver Island University, whose
good suggestions helped to make the baking and pastry chapters more student
friendly; Master pâtissier Hermann Greineder and Albert Liu, who proved invaluable
resources for the baking chapters; and Gilbert Noussitou of Camosun College, who
provided valuable comments on Chapters 10 (Stocks and Sauces), 12 (Principles of
Meat Cookery), 13 (Beef) and 14 (Veal), as well as corrections throughout the text.
We would also like to thank those instructors who provided feedback throughout
the development of the seventh Canadian edition, including the following:
Roger Andrews, College of the North Atlantic
Michael Byanton, Holland College
Ron Christian, College of New Caledonia
Joseph Dharmaraj, Douglas College
Rob Donne, George Brown Chef School
Daniel Francois, Cape Breton University
Samuel Glass, Centennial College
David Hawey, CCC, Durham College, Centre for Food
David Keindel, Algonquin College
Don Mailman, Nova Scotia Community College
Vincent Pacquot, Liaison College
Peter Dewar contributed information on how to plan a competition experience,
and Rossana Di Zio Magnotta of Magnotta Winery graciously allowed us to use
the material on wine and food pairings found in MyCulinaryLab. Special thanks to
Richard Embery, photographer, whose work for the American editions of this text
has enriched our Canadian editions. We are also grateful to the many chefs, restau-
rateurs, writers and culinary professionals who provided recipes and essays for this
text. Generous donations of equipment and supplies by the following companies
have helped to make the text possible: J.A. Henckels Zwillingswerk, Inc.; All-Clad
Metalcrafters, Inc. and Parrish’s Cake Decorating Supplies, Inc. We also wish to
thank Shamrock Foods Company, KitchenAid Home Appliances, Taylor Environ-
mental Instruments, Hobart Corporation, Randy Dougherty of ISF International,
TechneUSA, Table de France North America LLC, Rosenthal USA, Rational Canada
and Canada Beef. Thank you to Great Events Group, Calgary, for sharing new food
presentation photos.

Ke y F e at u r e s Key Features
Learning Outcomes and

Chapter Introduction
Each chapter begins with clearly stated
outcomes. Students can refer to these
outcomes while reading to make sure they
After studying this chapter understand the material. The introduction
you will be able to: provides a brief overview of the topics to be
• name key historical figures covered.
responsible for developing food
service professionalism
• discuss the development of the
modern
P r ofood
f e s sservice ism 9
i o n alindustry
• explain the organization of classi-

Sugar, in particular, is added to many processed foods, often using a name con-
Paul Poplis/Photolibrary/Getty images
cal and modern kitchen brigades

sumers are not familiar with—in other words, hidden sugars. Yet they are marketed
as healthy choices. • explain the role of the pro-
fessional chef in modern food
service operations
New Consumers • identify the attributes an appren-
Demographic and social changes have contributed to the diversification of the food tice or student cook needs to
service industry by creating or identifying new consumer groups with their own become a professional chef
desires or needs. By tailoring their menu, prices and decor accordingly, food ser-
vice operations cater to consumers defined by age (baby boomers and seniors, in
particular, and now millennials), type of household (singles, couples and families),
income, education and8geography. ChaPter one
Since the 20th century, especially in the decades following World War II, there
has also been a rapid increase1 in the number and type of institutions
M01_LABE3905_07_SE_C01.indd
market
provid-fromglobal cuisine foods (often commer- 08/12/16 1:49 PM
distant Marginal Definitions
suppliers. Indeed, by the early 1900s, live Atlantic oysters were
cially produced items) or preparation
ing food services. These include sA fety
hospitals, A lert
schools, retirement centres, available
hotels and on methodswestern
the plains.ubiquitous
that have become During and since the 20th Important terms
century, are defined in the margins to
temperature-
resorts (which may, in turn, have fine dining, coffee shop, banquet and room throughout the world; for example, helpbeen
students master
epidemics controlled cargo ships,
service facilities), factories, camps and office complexes. Each of these institutions curries and french-fried potatoes trains, trucks and airplanes all have used as part new
of anterminology. An
presents the professional chef with unique challenges, whether they beintegrated culinary, worldwide food transportation network. end-of-text glossary provides an easy reference
dietary or budgetary. The beginning of the 21st century Combined withcuisine
national dependable food preservation and storage
the characteristic for alltechniques,
the key terms.
improved
Through travel, television hasorseenexposure to the many
a number books and magazines
of agricultural about cuisine
transportation of a nation
networks have freed chefs from seasonal and geographic limitations
food, consumers are betteranomalies.
educated andOutbreaks
more sophisticated.
of BSEEducated consumers regional cuisine a set of recipes based
in their choice of
provide a market for new foods and cuisines (global, national, regional and upon local ingredients, traditions and
foods and have expanded consumers’ culinary horizons.
(bovine spongiform encephalop- Engineering advancements also have facilitated or even eliminated much routine
ethnic) as well as an appreciation for a job well done. practices; within a larger geographical,
Although some consumers athy) mayand aviana flu
frequent and concerns
particular kitchen
restaurant because its chefwork. Since
political, theorstart
cultural socialof theregional
unit, Industrial Revolution, chefs have come to rely
or owner is a celebrity or over the safety
the restaurant is riding ofhigh
aquaculture
on a crest of fad or fashion, cuisines
increasingly on mechanical and ofmotorized
are often variations one food processors, mixers and cutters, as
most consumers choose asalmon have caught
restaurant—whether it be aconsumer
quick service burger
well place
another that blend together to create a
as a wealth of sophisticated kitchen equipment such as high-carbon stainless
attention. Producers
or an elegant fine-dining restaurant—because andquality
it provides gov-food at a cost they national cuisine
are willing to pay. To remain successful,globally
ernments then, the restaurant
have taken
steel
must carefully knife blades, microwave ovens, convection steamers, programmable com-
balance ethnic cuisine the cuisine of a group
its commitment to quality steps with marketplace
to containrealities.
or control these bitherm ovens, infrared thermometers and induction cooktops. More recently, new
of people having a common cultural
outbreaks. Food recalls are com- computer technologies
heritage, as opposedhave made
to the managing
cuisine of restaurant kitchens more efficient.
mon, some of which cost proces- And with easy a group of people
access tobound Safety Alerts
together by chefs can now source ingredients from a
the Internet,
geography or political factors
sors millions of dollars when food world of suppliers. Brief notes remind students of safety concerns
the food seRvICe opeRatIon
safety protocols are breached. and encourage them to incorporate food safety
To function efficiently, a food service operation must be well organized and staffed
New Foods and sanitation into their regular kitchen
with appropriate personnel. This staff is traditionally called a brigade. Currently brigade a system of staffing a kitchen
we refer to the “team,” and sometimes the chef’s title is kitchen leader.Modern Althoughfood
activities.
preservation,
so that each worker is storage
assigned aand set transportation techniques have made both
a chef will be most familiar with the back of the house or kitchen brigade, he or of specific tasks; these tasks are often
fresh and exotic foods regularly available to chefs and consumers. Many of these
she should also understand how the dining room or front of the house operates. related by cooking method, equipment
foods are themselves more
Staffing any food service facility ultimately depends on the type and complexity of or the types of Pro
wholesome
foods being produced as the result of progress in agriculture and
fessio n alism 5
the menu. (Types and styles of menus are discussed in Chapter 4, Menuanimal husbandry.
and Food Costing.)
Planning
Advancements in agriculture such as the switch from organic to chemical fer- Boxes and Sidebars
A U gU ste esC Offier (1846–1935) Boxes and sidebars present
tilizers and the introduction of pesticides and drought- or pest-resistant strains supplementary
The Modern Kitchen Brigade
Escoffier’s brilliant culinary career began simplified the profusion have resulted in increased yields of crops. Traditional hybridization techniques notes
of flavours, should be appropriate to the occasion, information, including and, on food history,
at the age of 13 in his uncle’s restaurant dishes and garnishes typifying Carême’s the guests and the season, and Ma
Today most food service operations
and continued utilize
until hisadeath
simplified
at the version
work. Heofalso Escoffier’s more
streamlined kitchen
somerecently,
of cuisinegenetic engineering
(1934), surveying cuisine bour- have produced new or food in culture
improved and and,
grains the background
for of
brigade. age of 89. Called the “Emperor of the Carême’s overly elaborate and fussy pro- geoisie. But his most important contri-
better or forbution
worse, fruits and vegetables professional
that have a longer shelf lifefood
and service.
are moreThis material helps
world’s kitchens,” he is perhaps best cedures and classifications. For example, is a culinary treatise intended for
The executive chef, working
known forchef or kitchen leaderand ishe a reduced
team playerCarême’swho coordi-
nates kitchen activities and directs
dining
defining
duringthe
French cuisine
La kitchen
Belle Époquestaff’s(thetraining and sauces
of classifying workinto amenable
elaborate
efforts.
the five Tak-
to mass-production handling, storage and transportation
system the professional chef entitled Le Guide
families culinaire (1903). Still in use today, it is
students understand
methods. theThereculinary arts in a wider
“Gay Nineties”).
ing into consideration factors such as food costs, food of sauces still recognized
availability and is increased
today.
popularity Escof- anopposition
as astounding collectionamong of morethe than public, with Europe at the forefront, against con-
social context. Extended profiles of Canadian
Unlike Carême, Escoffier never fier sought simplicity and aimed for the 5000 classic cuisine recipes and gar-
well as labour costs, kitchen
worked skills
in anand equipment,
aristocratic household.the executive
perfect balance chef suming
of aplans
few menus
superb genetically
ingre- nishes. In it, modified
Escoffier emphasizesfoodtheproducts. The concernchefs is theprovide
residueanof inside
pesticides
look at the philosophy
and creates recipes. He Rather,
or she sets and
he exhibited enforces
his culinary skills nutrition,
in dients. Some safety andhissanitation
consider refinement of mastery of techniques, the thorough
the dining rooms of the finest hotels in grande cuisine to have and been so herbicides that linger
radical understanding of cooking in the crop. We have seen an increase
principles and dailyinlife
theofincidence
successfulofchefs.
standards and participates in (or at least observes) the preparation and presenta-
in Paristhat
and quality
the Savoy standards
and Carlton are arigorously
chronic disease that mirrors the introduction of these agricultural products coupled
Europe, including the Place Vendôme as to credit him with the development of and the appreciation of ingredients—
tion of menu items to ensure and consistently
new cuisine referred to as cuisine clas- attributes he considered the building
sique (classic or classicalwith
cuisine). huge increases in chefs
sugar consumption.
Hotels in London.
maintained. The chef or kitchen leader may also
Escoffier did much to enhance the
be responsible for purchasing food blocks professional
His many writings include Le Livre create great dishes.
should use to
items and, often, equipment.

grande In some
cuisine food had
that arguably service
reached operations, in which,Likewise,
the executive
des menus (1912), chef
discussing advancements
Escoffier was honoured asin animal husbandry and aquaculture have led to a
a Cheva-
its perfection under Carême. Crediting the principles of a well-planned meal, lier of the French Legion of Honour in
may assist in designing the menu, dining room and kitchen. He or she also
Carême with providing the foundation for he analogizes a great dinner moreeducates
to areliable
sym- 1920supply
for his workof leanerthemeat,
in enhancing rep- poultry and fish. Moreover, foods found tradi-
the dining room staff so great—that
that theyis,can correctlyEscoffier
answer phony questions about movements
the menu.
French—cooking, with contrasting
tionally only in the wild (for example, game, wild rice and many mushrooms) are
that utation of French cuisine.
The chef may also work with food purveyors to learn about new food items and
now raised commercially and are routinely available.
The 21st Century—The Farm-to-Table (or Locavore) Food preservation and processing techniques have led to the development of
Movement and Celebrity Chefs quality packaged, prepared convenience foods. Today’s chef can rely on many of
The 21st century has begun with a rethinking of menu building not only to recog-
these products. They allow greater flexibility and more time to devote to other
nize the vast array of ingredients available, but also to reduce its ecological footprint
and enhance sustainability. While chefs are sourcing ingredientspreparations. globally, they are
M01_LABE3905_07_SE_C01.indd 9 also working in tandem with local farmers to supply their diners with fresh fla- 08/12/16 1:49 PM
vours while supporting local agriculture and preserving heirloom varieties. The con-
cern for locally raised ingredients, referred to as the farm-to-table (or locavore)
New Concerns
movement, has influenced chefs to serve fresh seasonal foods, such as wild greens
farm-to-table (or locavore) move-
ment an awareness of the source
or pastured pork, that are produced near the location of their restaurants. of ingredients with an emphasis on
Consumer concerns about nutrition and diet have fuelled changes in the food
In addition to supporting local growers and reducing reliance on imports, sustain- serving locally grown and minimally
A01_LABE3905_07_SE_FM.indd
ability is at the core17
of the farm-to-table philosophy, coupled with a desire to create processed foods in season 28/12/16 1:05 PM
service industry. Obviously, what we eat affects our health. Adequate amounts of
Grading
Shell eggs are washed, sanitized, candled and graded at grading stations monitored
by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) (Egg and Egg Products Division).
Beef 287
The grade A, B or C is given to an egg based upon interior and exterior quality, not
size. The qualities for each grade are described in Table 8.1. Grade has no effect on
Hockvalues.
nutritional Bone The demand for omega-3, free range or cage-free and organic smAller
eggs is increasing. Producer claims referencing free range are not regulated and C ArC Asses
you must know the farmer to verify such claims. TheHindshank
higher cost of production is
passed on to consumers. (tibia)
Pressure and demand by restau-
Aitch or rants is causing renewed inter-
Stifle Joint
Pelvic Bone Rump Bone est in smaller carcasses. Grade
G
Gra dThicker
A
StoragePin Bone Knee Cap
steaks can be cut from lighter ani-
(patella)
Egg quality is quickly diminished by improper handling. Store eggs at temperaturesmals and still meet portion stan-
below 4°CTail(40°F) Bones and at a relative humidity of 70% Round
to 80%.Bone Eggs will age moredards. A premium price is being
(caudal vertebrae) (femur) one week under proper paid to acquire smaller muscles.
during one day at room temperature than they will during
Sacrum However, the efficiencies and
Ball of Femur yields achieved from larger car-
Tables (sacral vertebrae)
casses dictate that they will remain
Loin Bones
a strong market presence. New
Tables and charts offer visual support and tablE 8.1 E g g g r a d Es
(lumbar vertebrae)
ways of fabricating and prepar-
Chine Bones
organization of material to enhance students’ ing the larger muscles are being
understanding of the material. Gradee B a “base-
developed. For example,
grAde A 1 3 th R ib grAde B grAde
Rib Cartilages
C
Back Bones ball” cut is made by splitting a
(costal cartilages)
albumen
(thoracic vertebrae)Firm Watery Thin and watery strip loin lengthwise and defatting
and netting the muscle before
Yolk Feather Bonesround, well centred slightly flattened Loose portioning.
(spinal processes)
shell Clean, no cracks, No cracks, but rough May be cracked
normal shape texture Breast Bone
(sternum)
Use Blade Bonesoldat retail Used for commercial Not sold to consumers;
Cartilage
markets for baking or further sold to commercial
Blade Bonehousehold use processing processors for further Grad
de C
Grade
(scapula)
Elbow
processing
1st Rib
Neck Bones (ulna)
Ulna
Foreshank Bone
Radius
Atlas Bone Arm Bone
(humerus)
Figure 13.1
M08_LABE3905_07_SE_C08.indd 141 c The skeletal structure of a steer. 21/12/16 4:5
Figures
Loin
Detailed line drawings illustrate tools and
Chuck
Chuc
ck Rib SShort
Sho
hoort Loin SSi
Sirloin
irloin
li Hip
Hi
equipment. Illustrations are also used to show
students the skeletal structure of meat animals
“New ” Beef
and fish.
C uts
A number of secondary beef cuts

are now being marketed, such as
flat iron, medallions and chuck
flat. Most of these cuts come from
the front quarter. The Beef Infor-
mation Centre provides technical
risssket
ket
kett aand
Brisket nd Shank
Shh k Pl
Pl
Plate Flankk
Fl sheets on these unfamiliar cuts
that include recommendations on
handling them and menu sugges-
tions. Visit www.beefinfo.org for
further information.
Figure 13.2 c The primal cuts of beef.
M13_LABE3905_07_SE_C13.indd
124 C h a p t e r S287
eVeN 10/12/16 2:27 PM
Product Identification Tamarind (Fr. tamarin; Sp. and It. tamarindo), also known as an Indian date,
is the brown, bean-shaped pod of the tamarind tree, which is native to Africa.
Hundreds of original colour photographs help Although naturally sweet, tamarind also contains 12% tartaric acid, which makes it
extremely tart. It is commonly used in Indian curries and Mediterranean cooking
students recognize and identify ingredients. as a souring agent and in the West Indies in fruit drinks. Tamarind is sold as a
concentrate or in sticky blocks of crushed pods, pulp and seeds, which should be
Students can explore a huge variety of items soaked in warm water for about five minutes, then squeezed through a sieve. Tam-
arind’s high pectin content is useful in chutneys and jams, and it is often included
such as fresh herbs, fish, dried spices, game, Tamarind Pods Tamarind Paste in barbecue sauces and marinades. It is a key ingredient in Worcestershire sauce.
meats and fine cheeses. Turmeric, also known as Indian saffron, is produced from the roots of a flow-
ering tropical plant related to ginger. Unlike ginger, fresh turmeric is not used in
cooking. It is only available dried and usually ground. Turmeric is renowned for its
Turmeric vibrant yellow colour and is used as a food colouring and dye. Turmeric’s flavour
is distinctive and strong; it should not be substituted for saffron. Turmeric is a tra-
ditional ingredient in Indian curries, to which it imparts colour as well as flavour.
Wasabi is a pale green root similar, but unrelated, to horseradish. It has a strong
aroma and a sharp, cleansing flavour with herbal overtones that is a bit hotter than
that of horseradish. Fresh wasabi is rarely found outside Japan, but tins of powder
and tubes of paste are readily available. It is commonly served with sushi and
sashimi and can be used to add a spicy Asian note to other dishes, such as mashed
potatoes or a compound butter. It also has antibacterial properties.
Wasabi
Herb and Spice Blends

Five-Spice Many countries and cuisines have created recognizable combinations of spice fla-
Powder vours that are found in a variety of dishes. Although many of these blends are avail-
able ready-prepared for convenience, most can be mixed by the chef as needed. A
few of the more common spice blends are described here.
Chinese five-spice powder is a combination of equal parts finely ground Szech-
uan pepper, star anise, cloves, cinnamon and fennel seeds. This blend is widely used
in Chinese and some Vietnamese foods and is excellent with pork and in pâtés.
Curry powder is a European invention that probably took its name from the
Tamil word kari, meaning “a sauce.” Created by 19th-century Britons returning
from colonial India, it was meant to be the complete spicing for a “curry” dish.
A01_LABE3905_07_SE_FM.indd 18 There are as many different formulas for curry powder as there are manufacturers; 28/12/16 1:06 PM
170 chaPter nine
Stir-frying is a variation of sautéing. A wok is used instead of a sauté pan; the

curved sides and rounded bottom of the wok diffuse heat and facilitate tossing
and stirring. Otherwise, stir-frying procedures are the same as those outlined for
sautéing and will not be discussed separately here.
Procedures
Procedure for SautéinG FooDS Numbered steps outline the basic procedures
Cut, pound or otherwise prepare the food to be sautéed. Season it and
❶ that must be mastered. These procedures are
dredge it in flour, if desired.
❷ Heat a sauté pan and add enough fat (typically, oil) to just cover the
often followed by basic recipes that allow stu-
pan’s bottom. dents to practise these skills.
❸ Add the food to the sauté pan in a single layer, presentation side down. Do
not crowd the pan.
❹ Adjust the temperature so that the food’s exterior browns properly without
burning and the interior cooks. The heat should be high enough to complete
the cooking process before the food begins to stew in its own juices.
P r i nc i P le s o f c o o k i ng 169
❺ Turn or toss the food as needed. Avoid burns by not splashing hot fat.
❻ Cook
product yield. As well, there is less carryover untilProgrammable
cooking. done. Doneness is usually determined by timing or touch.
combitherm
ovens will take as long as 12 hours to cook a prime rib roast and sensors adjust
temperature and humidity in the chamber to produce a roast that finishes at the
perfect internal temperature of doneness and holds the roast for service to ensure
overcooking does not occur.
Illustrated Procedures
Procedure for RoaStinG oR BakinG FooDS Step-by-step colour photographs of various
P r i nc i P le s o f c o o k i ng 183
❶ Preheat the oven. stages in the preparation of dishes and
to coat pans, less fat is used; however, be careful to avoid breathing in any of the
❷ Cut, trim or otherwise prepare the food to be roasted or baked. Marinate or
spray. When you substitute water or stock for most of the fat, the result is primarily ingredients help students visualize unfamiliar
seasontheasfood
steaming desired. Brush
to cook it. with oil or butter, as appropriate.
❸ Place the food on a rack or directly in a roasting pan or baking dish. techniques and encourage them to review
Moist-Heat
❹ Roast the food, MetHods
generally uncovered, at the desired temperature. Baste as
❶ Heat a small amount of oil in the ❷ The sloped edge of the pan can be
baste to moisten foods during cooking
❸ The item being sautéed should be
kitchen activities whenever necessary.
requires no fat when you cook, whether you use a steam basket or cab- (usually grilling, broiling or roasting)
necessary.
Steaming
sauté pan before adding the food. used to toss the food. cooked quickly.
inet or youtocover
❺ Cook a sautéinternal
the desired pan with a lid to finish
temperature cooking. Also,
or doneness, nutrients that
remembering are not with melted fat, pan drippings, a sauce
leached
manyfrom foods thewill
foods duringcarryover
undergo steaming. Poaching
cooking afterinthey
a broth or court from
are removed bouillon or other liquids to prevent drying and
to add flavour
addsthe nooven.
fat to food. In fact, it will melt some surface fat and allow it to float away.
Pan-frying
However, if you serve poached salmon with hollandaise sauce instead of salsa,
you negate the benefits of the cookingPan-frying method and shares similarities
significantly with both
increase thesautéing
fat and deep-fat frying. It is a dry-heat
consumed by the diner. Avoid adding fatcooking to cooking methodwaterinwhen which youheatcook is pasta;
transferred
it by conduction from the pan to the
food, using a moderate
is unnecessary if you use a sufficient amount of water. When you cook foods in a amount of fat and medium hot temperatures similar to a
liquid, skim visible fat to prevent its reabsorption deep-fat fryer.by the Heat
foodis being
also transferred
cooked. to the food from the hot fat by convection.
Foods to be pan-fried are often coated in breading. This forms a seal that keeps
the food moist and prevents the hot fat from penetrating S A f Et they food,
A lEcausing
rt it to
become greasy. Cooking with hot oil
ConClusion To pan-fry foods properly, first heat the fat in a sauté pan using moderate heat.
Use enough fat so that the food being cookedWhen hot oil comes
is immersed one-thirdinto to
contact
one-half
with liquid, itlower
can spatter, causing
Cooking is the transfer of heat energy toinfoods the fat.
by The fat should
conduction, be at a temperature
convection or radi- somewhat than that used in
severe burns. Use caution when
ation. Cooking changes the molecular structure sautéing;ofit certain
should nutrients.
not smokeWhen but should
heat isbe hot enough so that when the food is
placing foods into hot fat. When
applied, proteins coagulate, starches gelatinize, added it crackles and spattersfats
sugars caramelize, from melttheandrapid vaporization of moisture. If the tem-
pan-frying, slide food into the
water evaporates. Foods can be cooked perature
using is too low,ofthemethods.
❷ Useaa variety
food will absorb excessive amounts of fat; if it is too high,
❶ Season the item to be roasted, thermometer to checkSome the use heated pan, letting it fall away
dryarrange
heat: broiling, grilling, roasting the food will burn on the outside before the interior
from is fully
so cooked. Whendothe notfood
it in an uncovered pan and and baking, sautéing,
internal pan-frying
temperature of theanditemdeep-fat you that splatters
frying. is properly browned
boilingonand onesteaming.
side, turnStill it without piercing
burns. it,Patusing
moisttongs.
foods Always
placeOthers use moistoven.
it in a preheated heat: poaching, simmering,
being roasted. cause dry
others use a combination of the two: braising turn theand food away from
stewing. Sousyourvide body to preventwith
and cook– beingpaperburned by before
towels any fatadding
that may
chill employ a variety of cooking methods, splash. When the
depending fooddish
on the is fully
beingcooked,
prepared. removethemit from to athe pan, drain
deep-fat fryer. it on absor-
The
Photomethod used Education
Credits Pearson bent paperand
affects the texture, appearance andflavour
serve ofit immediately.
the cooked foods. Oil heated to its flash point can
sautéing
You must understand these principles to ensure that foods are properly cooked. ignite, causing burns or a serious
kitchen fire. When oil is heated
Sautéing is a dry-heat cooking method that uses conduction to transfer heat from to its smoke point, it begins to
a hot sauté pan to food with the aid of a small amount of fat. Heat then penetrates
the food through conduction. High temperatures are used to sauté, and the foods
break down, creating acreolin, Questions for Discussion
a harsh-smelling chemical com-
are Q u e scut
usually t i into
o n small
s fo r d to
pieces i spromote
C u s s ieven o n cooking. pound. This offensive smell is a Questions for Discussion appear at the end
To sauté foods properly,
M09_LABE3905_07_SE_C09.indd 170 begin by heating a sauté pan on the stove top, then add good warning that hot oil may be 08/12/16 6:44 PM
a small amount of fat (avocado oil has the highest smoke point). The fat should close to its flash point. Turn off the of each chapter to encourage students to
just cover the the
❶ Describe bottom of the pan.
differences betweenHeatconduction
the fat or oil andto the temperature
❼ Whatjust belowshouldheat
qualities be and carefully remove the pan
considered when choosing a integrate theory and technique into a broader
the smoke point. The food to be cooked should be as dry as possible when it is of oil from its heat source. Cover
convection. Identify four cooking methods that rely fat for deep-fat frying?
addedon to theconduction
both pan to promote browning and
and convection to heatto prevent
foods. excessive spattering. Place
with a tight-fitting lid to smother understanding of the material.
❽ Listsothree any flames. Do not cook with oil
the Explain
food in your the pan in a single layer. The heat should be adjusted
choices. the signs
food that fryer fat has broken down and
cooks thoroughly; it should not be so hot that the outside of the food should
burnsbe replaced. that
before Whathascausesreached its fat
fryer smoke point.
to break
Identifyis two
❷ inside
the cooking
cooked. The methods
food should thatberelyturned
on infrared
or tossed periodically down? What can youAllow
to develop do tothe oil tothe
extend cool lifecompletely
of fryer fat?
before discarding.
heat. What
the proper is the
colour. principal
Larger items difference
should be between
turned usingthesetongs without piercing the
❾ Explain the differences between breading and batter-
methods?
surface. Smaller items are often turned by using the sauteuse’s sloped ing sides
foodstoforflip deep-fat frying.
them
❸ Atback on toptemperature,
the same of themselves. willWhen
a foodtossing
cook sautéed
faster infoods,
a keep the pan in con-
tact convection
with the heat source ❿ Describe sous vide cooking.
oven or a as much as possible
conventional to prevent
oven? Explain yourit from cooling. Sautéing
sometimes
answer.includes the preparation of a sauce directly in the pan after thethemain
⓫ Itemize cooling process for a cook–chill system.
item has been removed. Photo Credits Pearson Education
❹ Describe the process of caramelization and its signifi- ⓬ Do sous vide and cook–chill systems mean that less-
cance in food preparation. Will a braised food have a skilled kitchen staff is needed?
caramelized surface? Explain your answer.
⓭ To reduce calories from fat, which cooking methods
❺ Describe the process of coagulation and its signifi- are the best to use?
cance in food preparation. Will a pure fat coagulate if
heated?
M09_LABE3905_07_SE_C09.indd 169 Explain your answer. 08/12/16 6:43 PM
MyCulinaryLab
❻ Describe the process of gelatinization and its signifi-
Visit MyCulinarylab for quizzes, videos, supplementary
cance in food preparation. Will a pure fat gelatinize? topics, and this additional recipe:
Explain your answer.
Cassis spheres
M09_LABE3905_07_SE_C09.indd 183 16/12/16 3:36 PM

P o t a t o e s , Gr a i ns a nd P a s t a 567
ProCedUre For SAutéINg ANd PAN-FrYINg PotAtoeS

❶ Wash, trim, peel, cut and/or cook the potatoes as desired or as directed in
the recipe.
❷ Heat the pan, then add and heat the fat. Add the potatoes to the hot fat. Do
not overcrowd the pan. Use enough fat to prevent the potatoes from sticking
to the pan. Depending on the recipe, use either the tossing method or still-
❸
frying method.
Add garnishes, seasonings and other ingredients as desired or as directed in
Recipes
the recipe. Icons
❹ Cook the potatoes until done. Healthy recipes and
vegetarian dishes are
lYo NN AI S e PotAt oeS
indicated with
yield: 8 120-g (4-oz.) servings Method: Sautéing colourful icons.
Measurements Potatoes, waxy variety 1 kg 2 lb.
onions, julienne 250 g 8 oz.
All recipes provide
Clarified butter 125 ml 4 fl. oz.
both metric and salt and pepper tt tt
U.S. measurements. Parsley, chopped 10 g 1 tbsp.
Finished Dish
❶ Partially cook the potatoes by baking, boiling or steaming. allow to cool.
Lyonnaise Potatoes
Some recipes are
❷ Peel and cut the potatoes into 0.5-cm (0.25-in.) thick slices.
❸ sauté the onions in half the butter until tender. remove the onions from the pan with a accompanied by
slotted spoon and set aside.
a photograph of
Step-by-Step ❹ add the remaining butter to the pan. add the potatoes and sauté, tossing as needed, until
well browned on all sides. the finished dish,
Instructions ❺ return the onions to the pan and sauté to combine the flavours. season to taste with salt allowing students
and pepper and garnish with parsley.
to see what the
Variations
VAriAtions: completed item
Recipe variations
Hash Browns—Shred the potatoes and onions and fry in small batches. should look like.
show students how O’Brien—Dice and deep-fry the potatoes and garnish with diced, sautéed onion and
These photographs
to modify recipes to red and green peppers.
can also help
create new flavour Approximate values per serving: Calories 170, total fat 12 g, saturated fat 7 g, Cholesterol 33 mg,
sodium 650 mg, total carbohydrates 16 g, protein 1 g students understand
profiles and
different ways of
new dishes.
presenting foods.
Richard Embery/Pearson Education, Inc.

Nutritional
Analysis
All recipes include a
nutritional
analysis prepared
specifically for
thisBlanched
text. fried potatoes are soft and When properly fried, the potatoes are Overcooked fried potatoes are dark
pale in colour. evenly golden brown and crisp. and bitter tasting.
Photo Credits Pearson Education
M23_LABE3905_07_SE_C23.indd 567 13/12/16 1:31 PM

Ab o u t t h e Au t h o r s
Chef Sarah Labensky, CCP, was Founding Director of the Culinary Arts Institute
at Mississippi University for Women (MUW). She taught cooking and management
courses and administered the school’s four-year baccalaureate degree program in
Culinary Arts. Prior to joining MUW’s faculty, she was a Professor of Culinary Arts
at Scottsdale (Arizona) Community College. Before teaching, Chef Labensky spent
many years as a working pastry cook and caterer. In April 2006, Sarah purchased
The Front Door and Back Door restaurants, located in downtown Columbus, Mis-
souri. She quickly expanded the operation to add a gourmet retail shop and an
evening fine dining restaurant. Sarah purchased The Green Olive Italian Restaurant,
located in northwest Columbus, in September 2006. She is active in several pro-
fessional organizations and is a Past President of the 4000-member International
Association of Culinary Professionals.
In her former life, Sarah was a practising attorney, with a J.D. degree from
Vanderbilt University. She also holds a B.S. degree in Political Science and Public
Administration from Murray (Kentucky) State University and a Culinary Certificate
from Scottsdale (Arizona) Community College. She has been repeatedly included
in Marquis’, Who’s Who in the World, Who’s Who in America and Who’s Who of
American Women. Sarah is originally from Murray, Kentucky, and has also lived
in Phoenix and Nashville. In addition to good food, Chef Labensky is passionate
about travel and animals. She is mom to three Rhodesian Ridgebacks, two Weima-
raners and four cats of questionable pedigree.
Priscilla Martell is a graduate of Brown University, and currently operates a con-

sulting business called All About Food that services the food, baking and restaurant
industries. She’s a prolific freelance writer and her articles have appeared in a
number of newspapers and magazines, such as Cooking Light, Food and Wine and
Flavor & Menu. Priscilla also works with the American Almond Products Company
as Culinary Research Director and she has taught as an adjunct at Connecticut
Culinary Academy and Boston University. She and her husband, Charlie van Over,
opened and ran, for a number of years, an award-winning restaurant called Restau-
rant du Village in their hometown of Chester, Connecticut.
Allen “Skip” Hause is co-owner and directing executive of Fabulous Food, which
he and his wife founded in 1995 to fulfil their vision of unique custom catering. A
graduate of New York’s renowned Culinary Institute of America, Skip has stellar
credentials in all facets of the culinary world. His experience includes the noted
Williamsburg Inn (Williamsburg, Virginia), corporate work for Omni International
Hotels (Atlanta, Georgia) and 16 years as Executive Chef for a leading Phoenix
catering company. As Fabulous Food’s Executive Chef, Skip oversees all aspects
of the business. He is ably assisted by an exceptional kitchen and planning staff,
whose combined talents are the reason the company earns its name in both taste
and presentation.
Fred Malley’s career includes being an educator, chef, food and beverage man-
ager, caterer and food stylist. His passion for food began early in life and has
continually evolved. He instructed aspiring culinarians at SAIT Polytechnic in
Calgary and mentors chefs for professional designation. Curriculum development is
a particular interest; as a director of the Canadian Tourism Human Resource Coun-
cil, he was actively involved in the development of National Occupational Stan-
dards for professional cook, line cook, kitchen helper, food and beverage manager
and entry-level cook training. He recently worked as a curriculum validation expert
for Alberta’s Apprenticeship and Industry Training to create content modules for

xxii About the Authors
cook training. Chef Malley co-authored Food Safety and Sanitation (SAIT), collabo-
rated on Fundamentals of Canadian Cheeses and Their Uses in Fine Cuisine (Dairy
Farmers of Canada) and provided input on Alberta’s Apprentice Cook outline and
exams. As a director of the Canadian Federation of Chefs & Cooks, he chaired the
Canadian Culinary Institute, the body responsible for professional certification of
chefs throughout Canada, for five years.
Chef Malley is a certified chef de cuisine (CCC) and a DACUM facilitator; he is
also certified for Evolutive Cuisine with Canadian Cheeses (ECCC) with distinction.
Fred is active in the Alberta Culinary Arts Foundation and was a support member
for Culinary Team Alberta in 1996 and 2008. He holds a degree in adult education.
His food styling appears internationally for major corporations and he has written
about chefs and food for Culinaire Magazine. He is currently the president of the
Calgary Academy of Chefs and Cooks.
Anthony Bevan, CCC, a native of Dublin, Ireland, graduated from the Dublin
Institute of Technology’s culinary program and continued his culinary training in
Basel, Switzerland. Returning to Ireland, he worked his way through the ranks and
became the youngest Executive Chef in a high-quality hotel. He led the culinary
brigades of other fine hotels and restaurants until finally opening his own restau-
rant called Knocklofty House in Tipperary, Ireland.
Chef Bevan moved to Canada and joined the culinary faculty team at Cam-
brian College, Sudbury, eventually becoming the Coordinator for Hospitality Stud-
ies. During his 10 years there, his achievements included winning the Teaching
Excellence Award, being awarded an Aboriginal name (Gaage Aan Kwod, meaning
“Clear Sky”), helping to establish Canada’s accredited Aboriginal Culinary Program
and Aboriginal Hotel Lodge Management DIP Program and writing a column for
the Sudbury Star.
In 1997, Chef Bevan joined the team at Humber College in Toronto. While there,
he designed and implemented the Ontario Youth Apprenticeship Program (OYAP)
for cooks; received the College Innovation of the Year Award; chaired the Curricu-
lum Advisory Committee for the trade of cook for the Ministry of Training, Colleges
and Universities; conceived, designed and led the development of Ontario’s Chef
Apprenticeship program; and hosted a television show called School of Chef.
In 2010, Chef Bevan became head of the Culinary School at Georgian College
in Owen Sound, Ontario, where he places an emphasis on local, sustainable, fresh,
chemical-free foods. He also devotes time to creating national and international
work placements for students and graduates of the culinary programs and contin-
ues his partnerships with First Nations community initiatives.
Settimio Sicoli graduated from the University of Victoria with majors in anthro-
pology and psychology. His culinary journey began when he enrolled in the
Professional Cook Training program at Vancouver Community College. He con-
tinued his culinary training in Europe, at the Hilton International Hotel in Mainz,
Germany. Returning to Canada, he joined the kitchen brigade at the University Club
of Vancouver, attaining the position of Executive Chef.
Chef Sicoli joined the faculty of Vancouver Community College’s Culinary Arts
Department in 1987. He has held the positions of Assistant Department Head and
Department Head of Culinary Arts, and is the former associate dean of the Tourism,
Hospitality, and Business Division. He was a mentor to the CCFCC Junior National
Team, composed entirely of VCC graduates, which garnered silver medals in both
the cold and hot IKA World Culinary Olympics held in Erfurt, Germany, in October
2012. In promoting successes for future culinarians, he always stressed the impor-
tance of three points: Passion, Commitment and Attitude—with these beliefs fully
entrenched, whether a young culinary student starting a career or an established
chef, success will surely follow.
Chef Sicoli has been active for years in many professional associations. He is
past president and chair of the British Columbia Chefs’ Association and chef direc-
tor on the Vancouver branch’s board. He is also the founding director of British

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When the lots were drawn they began mowing. It was a beautiful
sight to see the mowing in the sunset by the river; the meadows were
of an intense soft green; the sky all fleecy and golden to the west, and
black with a great thundercloud over the woods to the east, lit up
with intermittent summer lightnings. The mowers were all in
different coloured shirts—scarlet, blue, white, and green. They
mowed till the twilight fell and the thundercloud got near to us. Then
Feodor came and made our cart into a tent by tying up the shafts,
putting a piece of matting across them, and covering it with hay, and
under this he made beds of hay. We had supper. Feodor said his
prayers, and prepared to go to sleep, but changed his mind, got up,
and joined some friends in a neighbouring cart.
Three children and a deaf and dumb peasant remained with me.
The peasants who were in the neighbouring tent were drunk; they
began by quarrelling, then they sang for about four hours without
stopping; then they talked. Feodor came back about half an hour
before it was light, and slept for that brief space. I did not sleep at all.
I wasn’t tired, and the singing was delightful to hear: so excessively
characteristic of Russia and so utterly unlike the music of any other
country, except that of Mongolia. What strikes me most about it is in
the first place the accuracy with which the parts are taken, and in the
second place the curious rhythm, and the close, ending generally on
the dominant. The children chattered for some time about
mushroom gathering, and the deaf and dumb man told me a lot by
signs, and then they went to sleep.
As soon as it was light the mowers all got up and began mowing. I
do not know which was the more beautiful effect, that of the dusk or
of the dawn. The dawn was gray with pearly clouds and suffused with
the faintest pink tinge, and in the east the sun rose like a great red
ball with no clouds near it. At ten o’clock we drove to an inn and had
tea; then we drove back, and the hay, although it was quite wet, for it
had rained in the night, was carried there and then. “The women dry
it at home,” Feodor explained; “it’s too far for us to come here twice.”
The carts were laden with hay, and I drove one of them home, lying
on the top of the hay, in my sleep. I had always envied the drivers of
carts whom one meets lying on a high load of hay, fast asleep, and
now I know from experience that there is no such delicious slumber,
with the kind sun warming one through and through after a cold
night, and the slow jolting of the wagon rocking one, and the smell of
the hay acting like a soporific. Every now and then one wakes up to
see the world through a golden haze, and then one falls back and
drowns with pleasure in a deep slumber of an inexpressibly delicious
quality.
When we re-crossed the river we again stopped for tea. As we were
standing outside an old woman passed us, and just as she passed one
of the peasants said to me, “Sit down, Barine.” Barine, I suppose
everybody knows, means a monsieur, in contradistinction to the
lower class. “Very like a Barine,” said the woman, with a sarcastic
snort, upon which the peasant told her in the plainest and most
uncomplimentary speech I have ever heard exactly what he thought
of her personal appearance, her antecedents, and what she was fit
for. She passed on with dignity and in silence. Then, after a time, I
climbed up on the wagon again, and sank back into my green
paradise of dreams, and remember nothing more till we arrived
home at five o’clock in the evening.
St. Petersburg, August 6th.
At a moment like this, when one meets with various conflicting

statements made by people in authority, Government officials or
Liberal leaders, as to what the Russian people, the real people, are
thinking and feeling, it seemed to me that it would be worth while to
put aside theoretical speculations for a moment, and to try to obtain
some small fragments of first-hand evidence with regard to what the
people are saying and thinking. With this object in view I have spent
the last four nights in the train between Moscow and St. Petersburg.
My field of observation was necessarily small, but it cannot be called
unrepresentative or anti-national.
The first thing which struck me was a small incident which
occurred at a railway station at Moscow, and has a certain
significance. I was engaging a cab, and near me an officer was doing
the same thing. The cabmen were expressing reluctance to accept the
officer’s terms, and my cabman turned round to me and said: “That
man comes every day; he is drunk, and he drives and drives,
sometimes to the other end of the town, and never pays a single
kopeck.” “Why do you drive him if he never pays you?” I asked.
“There is nothing to be done—he is an officer,” answered the
cabman. This is a small example of how the lawlessness of the
existing system of government in Russia affects the poorer classes.
I travelled from Moscow to St. Petersburg by a slow train in a
third-class carriage. In the carriage was a mixed and representative
assembly of people—a priest, a merchant from Kursk, a
photographer from Tchelabinsk, a young volunteer: that is to say a
young man doing his year’s military service previous to becoming an
officer, two minor public servants, an ex-soldier who had been
through the Turkish campaign, a soldier who had lately returned
from Manchuria, three peasants, two Tartars, a small tradesman, a
carpenter, and some others. Besides these a whole band of gipsies
(with their children) encamped themselves on the platform outside
the carriage, and penetrated every now and then into the carriage
until they were driven out by threats and curses.
The first thing everybody did was to make themselves thoroughly
comfortable: to arrange mattresses and pillows for the night; then
they began to make each other’s acquaintance. We had not travelled
far before the gipsies began to sing on the platform, and this created
some interest. They suggested fortune-telling, but the ex-soldier
shouted at them in a gruff voice to begone. One of the officials had
his fortune told. The gipsy said she could do it much better for five
roubles (ten shillings) than for a few kopecks, which he had given. I
had my fortune told, which consisted in a hurried rigmarole to the
effect that I was often blamed, but never blamed others; that I could
only work if I was my own master, and that I would shortly
experience a great change of fortune. The gipsy added that if I could
give her five roubles she would tie a piece of bark in my handkerchief
which, with the addition of a little bread and salt, would render me
immune from danger. The gipsies soon got out. The journey went on
uneventfully—
Le moine disait son bréviaire,
La femme chantait,
as in La Fontaine’s fable. We had supper and tea, and the ex-soldier

related the experiences of his life, saying he had travelled much and
seen the world (he was a Cossack by birth), and was not merely a
Moujik. This offended one of the peasants, a bearded man, who
walked up from his place and grunted in protest, and then walked
back again.
They began to talk politics. The Cossack was asked his opinion on
the attitude of the Cossacks. He said their attitude had changed, and
that they objected to police service. The photographer from
Tchelabinsk corroborated this statement, saying he had been present
at a Cossack meeting in Siberia. Then we had a short concert. The
photographer produced a mandoline and played tunes. All the
inmates of the carriage gathered round him. One of the peasants
said: “Although I am an ignorant man” (it was the peasant who had
grunted) “I could see at once that he wasn’t simply playing with his
fingers, but with something else” (the tortoiseshell that twangs the
mandoline). He asked the photographer how much a mandoline cost.
On being told thirty roubles he said he would give thirty roubles to be
able to play as well as that. Somebody, by way of appreciation, put a
cigarette into the mouth of the photographer as he was playing.
Then I went to bed in the next compartment; but not to sleep,
because a carpenter, who had the bed opposite mine, told me the
whole story of his life which was extremely melancholy. The
volunteer appeared later; he had been educated in the Cadet-Corps,
and I asked him if he would soon be an officer. “I will never be an
officer,” he answered; “I don’t want to be one now.” I asked him if a
statement I had read in the newspapers was true to the effect that
several officers had telegraphed to the Government that unless they
were relieved of police duty they would resign. He said it was quite
true; that general discontent prevailed among officers; that the life
was getting unbearable; that they were looked down upon by the rest
of the people, and besides this they were ordered about from one
place to another. He liked the officers whom he was with very much,
but they were sick of the whole thing. Then towards one in the
morning I got a little sleep. As soon as it was daylight everybody was
up, making tea and busily discussing politics. The priest and the
tradesman were having a discussion about the Duma, and every one
else, including the guard, was joining in.
“Do you understand what the Duma was?” said the tradesman;
“the Duma was simply the people. Do you know what all that talk of a
movement of liberation means? It means simply this: that we want
control, responsibility. That if you are to get or to pay five roubles or
fifty roubles you will get or pay five roubles or fifty roubles, not more
and not less, and that nobody will have the right to interfere; and
that if some one interferes he will be responsible. The first thing the
Duma asked for was a responsible Ministry, and the reason why it
was dissolved is that the Government would not give that.”
The priest said that he approved of a Duma, but unless men
changed themselves no change of government was of any use. “Man
must change inwardly,” he said.
“I believe in God,” answered the tradesman, “but it is written in
the Scripture that God said: ‘Take the earth and cultivate it,’ and that
is what we have got to do; to make the best of this earth. When we
die we shall go to Heaven, and then”—he spoke in a practical tone of
voice which settled the matter—“then we shall have to do with God.”
The priest took out his Bible and found a passage in the Gospel. “This
revolutionary movement will go on,” he said, “nothing can stop it
now; but, mark my words, we shall see oceans of blood shed first,
and this prophecy will come true,” and he read the text about one
stone not being left on another.
Then they discussed the priesthood and the part played by priests.
“The priests play an abominable part,” said the tradesman; “they are
worse than murderers. A murderer is a man who goes and kills some
one. He is not so bad as the man who stays at home and tells others
to kill. That is what the priests do.” He then mentioned a monk who
had preached against the Jews in the South of Russia. “I call that
man the greatest criminal, because he stirred up the peasants’ blood,
and they went to kill the Jews. Lots of peasants cease to go to church
and say their prayers at home because of this. When the Cossacks
come to beat them, the priests tell them that they are sent by God. Do
you believe they are sent by God?” he asked, turning to the bearded
peasant.
“No,” answered the peasant; “I think they are sent by the devil.”
The priest said that the universal dominion of the Jews was at hand.
The tradesman contested this, and said that in Russia the Jews
assimilated themselves to the people more than in other countries.
“The Jews are cunning,” said the priest; “the Russians are in a ditch,
and they go to the Jews and say: ‘Pull us out.’” “If that is true,” said
the tradesman, “we ought to put up a gold statue to the Jews for
pulling us out of the ditch. Look at the time of the pogroms, the rich
Russians ran away, but the richest Jews stayed behind.” “They are
clever; they knew their business. If they stayed you may be sure they
gained something by it,” said the merchant from Kursk. “But we
ought to be clever, too,” said the tradesman, “and try and imitate
their self-sacrifice. Look at the Duma. There were twenty Jews in the
Duma, but they did not bring forward the question of equal rights for
the Jews before anything else as they might have done. It is criminal
for the priests to attack the Jews, and if they go on like this the
people will leave them.”
“Whereas,” said the merchant from Kursk thoughtfully, “if they
supported the people the people would never desert them.” “The
priests,” said one of the other nondescript people, “say that
Catherine the Second is a goddess; and for that reason her
descendants have a hundred thousand acres. General Trepoff will be
canonised when he dies, and his bones will work miracles.”
The guard joined in here, and told his grievances at great length.
They discussed the assassinations of Hertzenstein and Admiral
Chouchnin. “Hertzenstein never did any one any harm,” some one
said; “Chouchnin condemned hundreds and hundreds of people to
death.”
At one of the stations a fresh influx of people came, among others
an old peasant and a young man in a blouse. The old peasant
complained of the times. “Formerly we all had enough to eat; now
there is not enough,” he said. “People are clever now. When I was a
lad, if I did not obey my grandfather immediately he used to box my
ears; now my son is surprised because I don’t obey him. People have
all become clever, and the result is we have got nothing to eat.” The
young man said the Government was to blame for most things.
“That’s a difficult question to be clear about. How can we be clear
about it? We know nothing,” said the old peasant. “You ought to try
and know, or else things will never get better,” said the young man.
“I don’t want to listen to a Barine like you,” said the old peasant. “I’m
not a Barine, I am a peasant, even as thou art,” said the young man.
“Nonsense,” said the old peasant.
The discussion was then cut short by our arrival at St. Petersburg.
CONCLUSION
This book admits of no real conclusion, since its sole object is to

throw a few sidelights on a struggle which is still going on, and which
is possibly still in its infancy. My experience of it so far leads me to
believe that there are only two sides in this struggle (although at first
sight it appears to be infinitely more complicated), and that these
two sides are the same which have split up all countries in all times
under various names such as Roundheads and Cavaliers, or Reds and
Whites.
In Russia the two classes are the defenders and the opponents of
the Government, or rather of the autocracy. The former base their
contentions on the affirmation that Russia is an Oriental country and
that Western institutions are unsuited to the Russian people.
Parenthetically, I must mention that I am not alluding to the extreme
reactionaries—to those people who wish to go back to institutions
which existed before the time of Peter the Great. I am referring to
intelligent people who, while belonging to no political parties, simply
disbelieve in the Liberal movement in Russia, consider it to be the
hysterical cackling of an unimportant minority, and think that the
whole matter is mere stuff and nonsense. The opinion of these
people is certainly worth considering, not because they are more
impartial than others who belong to parties, since their ideas are
equally based upon prejudice, but because they may be right. These
people say that all talk of a Constitution is beside the mark. They
argue thus:
“We must have a Constitution, just as we have an Army and a
Navy, because the idea soothes the revolution-haunted breasts of
foreign financiers, but we shall never have a real Constitution
because we don’t want one. Reforms? Oh, yes, as many as you please,
on paper, signed and countersigned, but they will remain a dead
letter, because they are not adapted to the character and the spirit of
the nation. You cannot force Russian peasants to own land in the way
Western peasants do. You can make laws telling them to do so, but if
you force them you will only drive them to rebellion. Russia is like
China; you can draw up a Constitution for Russia, but when it is
carried out you will find that the only practical difference between
the old state of affairs and the new is that the writing-table of the
Minister of Foreign Affairs is to be oblong instead of round. People
say that the Russian people is good and that its Government is bad,
but the faults of the people are not the result of the inherent vices of
the Government; the vices of the Government are the logical result of
the faults, which in their turn are the inevitable complement of the
good qualities, of the people. The desire for Liberal reforms based on
Western examples is merely a fictitious agitation of a minority,
namely, the ‘Intelligenzia’ or middle class, who have forgotten and
lost their native traditions and instincts and have adopted and not
properly assimilated the traditions and instincts of Western Europe.
They have ceased to be Russian, and they have not become
European. They have taken the European banner of ideals, but they
do not know what to do with it; they cannot hold it up in their weak
Slav hands. The result is words, words, words. This chatter will
continue for a time, and when people get tired of listening, it will
cease. As for the people, the real people, they will settle their affairs
with those immediately connected with them, with their landlords,
&c. The Government will make plenty of reforms on paper and have
a Duma; but everything will go on exactly as it was before. Because
you cannot change the character of a people, and the form of
government they enjoy is the result and the expression of their
qualities and of their defects.”
Such are the arguments I have often heard advanced by these
people, and I say once more that they may be right. Three years ago I
was firmly convinced that they were right, and even now I have an
open mind on the subject, although two years of close contact with
Russians of all classes have led me to change my own opinion, and to
agree with the other equally impartial people, who are just as
Russian and have just as much knowledge of the country and
experience of their fellow countrymen, and who flatly deny the whole
thing. According to this school, the comparison with China is wrong
because the Chinese are intellectually a highly civilised nation, and
the proportion of them who can read and write is large. The present
régime in Russia is not the natural expression of national
characteristics, but a fortuitous disease which has been allowed to
spread without ever having been radically treated. Neither Autocracy
nor Bureaucracy is a thing which has grown out of the immemorial
traditions and habits of the Russian people; Autocracy was the
product of a comparatively recent change in Russian history, and
Bureaucracy the accidental result of the further changes introduced
by a man of genius. The Government made certain things
impossible: such as education for the peasants, laws for the peasants,
justice, &c.; then, when the results of these prohibitions began to
make themselves felt, turned round and said: “You see what these
men are like; it is no use giving them anything because they are
hopeless; they are like niggers and must be treated as such.” This has
been the proceeding of the Government: to prevent, prevent, and
prevent again; and then, when the explosion resulting from the
prevention occurred, to observe how right they had been in
preventing, and how necessary it was to prevent more and more,
because it was the only thing the people understood. In this
blindness and obstinacy, year after year deferring the payment of
their debt, they have let the interest accumulate; and when they
eventually have to pay, far more will be required of them than they
need originally have surrendered.
The people who represent these two schools of thought both say
that they are Russia. They assert: “We are Russia—tout le reste est
littérature.” Only time can show which is right. I have noticed that
with the representatives of both these schools the wish is father to
the thought and that they generalise on their own desires and their
own experience coloured by those desires. Which really represents
Russia, we shall know perhaps in ten years’ time. As far as my own
experience goes among peasants, workmen, &c., they have all been
representatives of the second school. But then, the first school would
say that this is immaterial, because the people may be thirsty for law,
and yet incapable of drinking it.
But those who belong to the second school, and without following
any party are liberal in thought and deed, say to their opponents: “If
it is true that what you represent is really Russia, we have no further
wish to remain Russians, and the day you are proved to be in the
right, we will emigrate and settle in Turkey, in Persia, or in China.”
INDEX
Agrarian Question, the—

Agitation, beginnings of the, 98, 99
Cadets, attitude towards the, 230
Cause of the problem, 178–79
Duma, speeches in the, 235
Expropriation scheme, 179–81
Government’s attitude towards, 108–9
Peasants’ view of the land purchase, 145–47;
of possession, 290–91
Solutions proposed, 88–89, 179–83, 230–32
Aladin, M.—
Politics of, 223–24
Speeches of, 199–200, 208, 214, 221, 246–47
Alexander II., reforms of, 182, 214, 270–71
Alexander III., policy of, 182
Alexandra, Queen, Russian opinion of, 290
Alliance of October 17th, see Octobrists
“Alliance of the Russian People”—
Demonstration outside the Kremlin, 49
Principles of the, 152–53
Amnesty Question, the, 36, 37—
Current ideas on, 225–26
English opinion on, 262
Kovolievski, Prof., speech on, 215
Nabokov, M., speech on, 213–14
Anikin, M., his speeches, 214, 221
Anti-revolutionaries, attacks on Count Witte, 79
Army, the—
Rostov Regiment, mutiny in the, 50
Spirit in the, 64–65, 72, 209–10, 236, 299
Volunteers, position of, 296–99
Arnold, Matthew, quoted, 37;
his books on the Russian index, 92
Art nouveau style, prevalence in Russia, 192, 245
Artistic Theatre, Moscow, Gorki’s play at, 29–30
Assumption, Cathedral of the, Holy Week services, 163–64
Audience, characteristics of a Russian, 198–99
Aulard, Prof., quoted, 222
Austin, Alfred, 82
Austrians in St. Petersburg, 286
Autonomists, number in the Duma, 218
Bacon, Lord, 106

Baikal, Lake of, 4
Balfour, Mr., 105, 240, 284
Barine, meaning of term, 295
Bastille, storming of the, Walpole quoted, 116–17
Bauman, veterinary surgeon shot, 28;
his funeral, 32–33
Beaconsfield, Lord, 119
Beethoven, Fidelio, 40
Bielostok, massacre at, 253
Birch, punishment abolished by Alexander II.
Biron, Duc de, quoted, 249
Bismarck, Prince, policy, 41, 102, 111–12
“Black Gang,” or “Black Hundred,” 28, 34–35, 67, 88, 289
Black Sea Fleet, mutiny, 6
“Block,” composition of the, 156
Boswell, quoted, 152
Boulygin project, the, 98
“Browning” pistols, use of, 50
Bruno, Giordano, 112
Buckle read in Russia, 93
Bunyan, popularity of “Pilgrim’s Progress,” 148
Bureaucratic system, faults of the, 94–95
Burial of Our Lord, service commemorating, 163–64
Byron read in Russia, 93, 105, 273
Cabman, the, in Moscow, 73, 291

“Cadets,” see Constitutional Democrats
Capital Punishment—
Abolition in Russia, question of, 260–61
Bill passed by the Duma abolishing, 270–72
Carlyle read in Russia, 93
Catherine II., 301
Character, English and Russian compared, 77–78, 223–24
Chartres, Bishop of, quoted, 207
Chernaia, village of, 51–55
Chinese—
Hospitality of the, 12–13
Recitation, their manner of; 15–16
Wizard, the professional, 16–17
Chila, description, 5–7
Chouchnin, Admiral, assassination, 301
Climate, Russian, 180–81
Commerce and Industry, party of—
Principles of, 153
Union with the Octobrists, 156
Congress, the Inter-Parliamentary, 262, 273
Conservative Party, the—
Attitude towards the Manifesto of Oct. 17th, 133;
towards the Duma, 222–23;
towards the Government, 275
Dissolution, opinion of the, 282
Position after the Manifesto, 38
Constituent Assembly, the demand for, 42, 76
Constitution, Government’s intentions regarding a, 109, 132
Constitutional Democrats, the—
Characteristics, 194–95
Current ideas on their policy, 94, 226–29, 230–32
Moderates’ charges against, 153–54
Origin of the, 129–30
Policy, 46, 153, 175–76, 181–82, 283–85
Programme, their election, 87, 158–59
Prominent members sketched, 218–220
Strength in the Duma, 156, 158–59, 218
Tiers-État compared with the, 205–7
“Controller” of a train, his duties, 5
Convicts, Russian, treatment of, 24, 26
Cornhill Magazine sold in Moscow, 160
Cossacks, the—
Attitude towards the “soldiers,” 12
Opinion of a Cossack regarding, 298
People, treatment of, 28–29, 33, 68–69
Council of Empire, charges against the Duma, 197
Crown, misunderstanding between the Duma and the, 278–79
Dante, quoted, 19
Danton, quoted, 249
De Witt, 112
Decembrists of 1825, 82
“Declaration of the Rights of Man,” 107
Delegate, the election of a, 154–56
Demchinsky, Boris Nikolaievitch, 10
Democratic Reform, the Party of, Policy, 220
Dolgoroukoff, Prince, 130, 220
Dostoievski, 18, 89—
Anniversary celebrations, 121
Genius of 122–27,
“Letters from a Dead House,” popularity of, 149–50
Peasants’ opinion of his books, 264
Doyle, Conan, read in Russian, 18
Dresden Hôtel, Moscow, 188
Drunkenness in Russia, 7
Du Maurier, quoted, 32
Dubassoff, Admiral, addresses the crowd, 49;
charges against, 68, 86
Duma, the—
Capital punishment abolished, 270–72
Censure, vote of, passed, 215
Composition, 218–24
Concession, the, of Aug. 6th, 98
Current ideas regarding the, 225–32, 299–300
Dissolution, 275–81;
ex-members’ appeal to the country, 287
Emperor’s refusal to receive President, 207–9
General desire for, 88
Government’s attitude towards, 221, 234, 259
Loan Question, the, 174–77
Opening of the, 191–201
Orderliness of the, 198–99, 203
Prime Minister’s Address, 212–13
Prognostications regarding, 153, 156–58, 189–90
Speech of a peasant, 215–17;
of Prince Urussoff, 250–57
Durnovo, M.—
Policy, 95, 132, 136
Resignation, 174, 184
Easter in Moscow, 162–69

Education, faults of English, 92–93,
see also Schools
Eight-hours’ day question, 87–88
Ekaterinoslav Regiment, the, 165
Elections, results of the, 156
Electorate Law, news of the, brought to Moscow, 61–62
Elizabeth, Empress, capital punishment abolished by, 260, 270
Emigration suggested as solution to agrarian question, 181–83
England—
Attitude of average Russian towards, 93
Convention in, Russian opinion regarding, 103–6, 240–42, 266
Opinion in, on Russian questions, 259–62
Ermitage Restaurant, proprietor shot, 67
Ermolov, police officer, his crime, 78;
his punishment, 261
Esthonians, number of, in the Duma, 218
Expropriation of private property proposed, 179–80;
of State Lands, 180–81
Extreme Conservatives, reception of the October Manifesto, 135
Extreme Radicals, reception of the October Manifesto, 135
Fairs—
Moscow town, 169
Palm Sunday at Red Place, 159–61
Fasts, Holy Week, observance of, 163–64
Feodor, peasant, his opinions, 290–95
Fielder’s School, the revolutionary meeting in, 56;
condition after the bombardment, 66
Finland, political meeting at Terrioki, 243–49
Fontanka, the printing-press discovered at, 254–56
Foreign intervention after dissolution of the Duma, 286, 288–89
Franchise Law, nature of the, 154–56
Freedom of Speech granted by October Manifesto, 98–99
French Revolution—
Russian compared with, 116–18, 174, 205–7, 210
Walpole, Horace, quoted, 116–18
Funeral in Moscow, description of a, 32–33
Gapon, 248
“Gasudar,” the, 77
Germany, attitude towards the Polish question, 41–42
Gipsies, Russian, 297
Gladstone, 106
Glinka, M., doctor, 14, 17
Godziadan, the military station at, 10
Gogol, his unpopularity, 149
Gonchuling, description, 9–10;
tram-railway from, 20
Gorki, Maxim, “Children of the Sun,” description, 29–30
“Gospodi, Gospodi,” 166
Government, the—
Attitude towards the Duma, 221, 234, 258–59
Employment of the Press, 234–35, 250–56
Oppression of lower classes, 296
Policy of “Proisvol,” 86–87, 94–96
Resignation of the Ministry, July, 1906, 274
Governor-General, Moscow, the attack on, 188–89
Governors, Provincial, empowered to “outlaw” province, 99
Habeas Corpus, the Russian, 224

Haggard, Rider, read in Russian, 18
Hall of the Duma, description, 191–92
Hardie, Mr. Keir, 284
Haymaking near Moscow, 291–97
Hertzenstein, M., account of, 220;
assassination of, 301
Herzen the Socialist, 160
Heyden, Count, politics, 218
Hliebnikov, M., Cossack officer, 14, 18, 122
Holy Shroud, the Service of the, 163
Holy Week in Moscow, 162–63
Homel, the January massacre at, 253
Hooliganism in St. Petersburg, 40;
in Moscow, 49–50;
see also Black Gang
Hôtel de France, Moscow, 28;
the Métropole windows broken by the Black Gang, 35;
the National, 35;
the Dresden, Moscow, 73
Hugo, Victor, quoted, 118
Hung-Hutzes, depredations by the, 20
Ibsen, 103
Ignatieff, Count, estates of, 236
“Intellectuals,” the, character of, 43;
wholesale arrests of the 132
Intelligenzia, the—
As a Political Party, 130
Revolutionary sympathies of the, 77, 81–83, 90–91
Treatment by the Government, 91–96
Irkutsk, 3
Ivan Veliki, Cathedral of, 164
Jacobins, the, 88
Jen-tzen-tung, description, 11–12, 15–16, 20
Jerome, Jerome K., read in Russian, 18
Jewish massacres, the, 250–57, 300–301
Jilkin, M., 245
John, Father, of Kronstadt, 52
Johnson, Dr., quoted, 114, 148, 152
Junius, quoted, 186–88
Karakosof, execution of, 271

Karavaieff, B. V. Kousmin, 220
Kareev, N., 220
K. D. Club, the, deserted on dissolution of the Duma, 281
Kharbin, description of, 8–9
Khilkoff, his portrait, 22
Kiev, massacres at, 253, 255
Kipling, Rudyard, read in Russian, 18;
the “Jungle Book,” 210–11
Kizlitzki, M., of the battery, 14, 17–18
Kniaz Potemkin, the mutiny on the, 98
Knout, use of the, abolished, 270
Kokoshkin, F. F., joins the Zemstvoists, 130;
speeches of, 219
Kologrivo, village of, 270
Komissaroff, officer, and the printing-press, 254–55
Koulich, 165, 166
Kouropatkin, 10, 220
Kouznetsk, town of, effect of railway strike at, 21–25
Kouznetski Most, the, Moscow, 59
Kovolievski, Prof.—
Expropriation, his speech on, 214–15
Inter-Parliamentary Congress, to go to, 272
Motion of, 192–94
Style of oratory, 199, 208–9, 220
Kreekòons, arrests of the, 154
Kremlin, the—
Demonstrations on the Emperor’s birthday, 49
Easter Services in, 162–69
Kronstadt, the mutiny at, 44, 98
La Fontaine, quoted, 297–98

Labour Party, composition in the Duma, 218, 221

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27 Principles of the Bakeshop 684

33 Breakfast and Brunch 818

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Part 3 15 Lamb 321

12 Principles of Meat 18 Game 387

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21 International Flavour Applying Various Cooking Methods 672

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Welcome to the seventh Canadian edition of On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary

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Chapters focus on five areas that are essential to a well-rounded culinary

New to the Seventh Canadian Edition

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A Note on the Recipes

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A nutritional analysis is provided with each recipe. This information is provided

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Learning Outcomes and

• explain the organization of classi-

cal and modern kitchen brigades

items and, often, equipment.

A number of secondary beef cuts

Herb and Spice Blends

Stir-frying is a variation of sautéing. A wok is used instead of a sauté pan; the

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ProCedUre For SAutéINg ANd PAN-FrYINg PotAtoeS

Richard Embery/Pearson Education, Inc.

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Priscilla Martell is a graduate of Brown University, and currently operates a con-

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St. Petersburg, August 6th.

At a moment like this, when one meets with various conflicting

as in La Fontaine’s fable. We had supper and tea, and the ex-soldier

This book admits of no real conclusion, since its sole object is to

Agrarian Question, the—

Bacon, Lord, 106

Cabman, the, in Moscow, 73, 291

Easter in Moscow, 162–69

Habeas Corpus, the Russian, 224

Karakosof, execution of, 271

La Fontaine, quoted, 297–98

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