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Extraction and Characterization of Curcuma Zedoaria Pseudo Stems Fibers For Textile Application
Extraction and Characterization of Curcuma Zedoaria Pseudo Stems Fibers For Textile Application
https://www.emerald.com/insight/1560-6074.htm
Curcuma
Extraction and characterization of zedoaria
curcuma zedoaria pseudo-stems pseudo-stems
fibers
fibers for textile application
Wiah Wardiningsih and Sandra Efendi
Department of Textile Engineering, Polytechnic of Textile Technology,
Bandung, Indonesia Received 23 March 2022
Revised 18 May 2022
Accepted 21 June 2022
Rr. Wiwiek Mulyani
Department of Textile Chemistry, Polytechnic of Textile Technology,
Bandung, Indonesia
Totong Totong and Ryan Rudy
Department of Textile Engineering, Polytechnic of Textile Technology,
Bandung, Indonesia, and
Samuel Pradana
Department of Family Welfare Science, Universitas Negeri Padang,
Padang, Indonesia
Abstract
Purpose – This study aims to characterize the properties of natural cellulose fiber from the pseudo-stems of
the curcuma zedoaria plant.
Design/methodology/approach – The fiber was extracted using the biological retting process
(cold-water retting). The intrinsic fiber properties obtained were used to evaluate the possibility of using fiber
for textile applications.
Findings – The average length of a curcuma zedoaria fiber was 34.77 cm with a fineness value of 6.72 Tex.
A bundle of curcuma zedoaria fibers was comprised of many elementary fibers. Curcuma zedoaria had an
irregular cross-section, with the lumen having a varied oval shape. Curcuma zedoaria fibers had tenacity and
elongation value of 3.32 gf/denier and 6.95%, respectively. Curcuma zedoaria fibers had a coefficient of
friction value of 0.46. Curcuma zedoaria fibers belong to a hygroscopic fiber type with a moisture regain value
of 10.29%.
Originality/value – Extraction and Characterization of Curcuma zedoaria Pseudo-stems Fibers for Textile
Application.
Keywords Curcuma zedoaria, Fiber extraction, Water retting, Fiber characterization, Waste fiber,
Pseudo-stems fiber, Natural fiber, Curcuma zedoaria fiber, Agricultural waste fiber
Paper type Research paper
1. Introduction
Throughout its history, the textile industry has been a major contributor to large-scale resource
consumption. This is not only because textiles are among the most vital products, but also to
the wide range of applications available, such as technical textiles (de Queiroz et al., 2020).
Along with the increase of application types, increased demographic and socio – economic Research Journal of Textile and
Apparel
expansion results in an increasing discrepancy between fiber availability and demand, a © Emerald Publishing Limited
1560-6074
concept is known as the fiber gap (Scheffer, 2012). DOI 10.1108/RJTA-03-2022-0025
RJTA Natural fibers have become much more apparent as an alternate to synthetic fibers,
not just for textiles but also for a diverse variety of other applications (de Queiroz et al.,
2020). Natural fibers are biodegradable, as contrast to man made fibers, which are
frequently employed in the textile industry (Kozlowski and Mackiewicz-Talarczyk, 2020).
When combined with alternative manufacturing practices, they have the potential to
increase the value of products while also bringing social and environmental benefits
(Fletcher, 2012).
Several nontraditional fibrous vegetable species have been investigated in recent
years, enabling for the production of novel textile materials. These are among the fibers
classified as alternate fibers (Fletcher, 2012), which encompass both the improvement
of existing natural fiber production processes and the introduction of new fiber sources,
for example newly extracted natural fiber from Hierochloe odarata plant (Dalmis,
Köktas, et al., 2020), newly extracted cellulose fiber obtained from Chrysanthemum
morifolium stem (Dalmis, Kilic, et al., 2020), cellulosic fibers extracted from date palms
(Elseify et al., 2019) and Washingtonia Palm ((Bouaziz et al., 2020)
The various flora of Indonesia can be a significant supply of potential fiber
materials. Curcuma zedoaria, also known as white turmeric or zedoary, is a plant that
grows in Indonesia (Figure 1). Its pseudo-stems are most likely to contain fiber.
Curcuma zedoaria belongs to the Zingiberaceae family of plant (Lobo et al., 2009). This
medicinal herb is used primarily in East Asian countries such as Indonesia, Malaysia,
China, Japan, India, Bangladesh and Vietnam (Lakshmi et al., 2019; Lobo et al., 2009).
Traditionally, zedoary is widely used as a seasoning, flavoring agent, tonic, remedy
for menstrual problems, toothache vomiting and perfume (Jung et al., 2018).
Zedoary rhizome, heart of shoots, leaves and inflorescence are all edible (Lim, 2016).
Curcuma zedoaria is a 1–1.5-m tall perennial erect herb with an upright pseudo-stem. It has
underground rhizomes that are branching, strong, conical and fleshy on the exterior and
pale yellowish-white on the interior. The rhizomes of Curcuma zedoaria offer profit value
as starch raw resources for the foodstuff product, despite the fact that they are already
used for the manufacturing of food colors and pharmaceuticals (Leonel et al., 2003; Lim,
2016). The Curcuma zedoaria rhizomes are a source of starch and are fed to neonates and
convalescents who suffer from severe stomatitis. It has a cooling and demulcent effect
(Lim, 2016).
One of the biggest challenges in agriculture is the ecologically acceptable and
economic handling of agricultural waste (Paramasivam et al., 2020). It has already
been achieved toward some degree in crops such as sugar, wheat, rice and corn and
yet many agricultural residues continue to go unexploited (Singaraj et al., 2019). For a
long period of time, natural fibers from plants have been employed in a number of
applications. Natural fiber from agricultural residues offers superior mechanical
characteristics, low density, stiffness, high disposability, non-abrasiveness and
renewability and is regarded more eco-friendly than man-made fibers (Cordeiro et al.,
2004). Among some of the various agricultural residue applications, extraction of
natural cellulose fibers is strongly preferred because fibrous applications have a wide
demand and give higher value. Natural cellulose fibers have been collected from a
variety of unusual materials in an effort to produce fibers with distinct properties
(Ilangovan et al., 2020).
There is a considerable potential for fiber production from the pseudo-stems of
Curcuma zedoaria. For the most part, Curcuma zedoaria has been used for both culinary
and medicinal purposes, excluding the stems. Because the stems cannot be used as food
Curcuma
zedoaria
pseudo-stems
fibers
Figure 1.
Curcuma zedoaria
plant
or medication, they are frequently discarded and end up as garbage. Other natural
fibers have been thoroughly explored in terms of extraction and characterization, but
fibers derived from the stems of Curcuma zedoaria have received relatively little
attention. To the author’s knowledge, there is currently no research publication on
Curcuma zedoaria stem fibers.
The investigation of the suitability of new vegetable fibers for textile
production necessitates the determination of several characteristics. The physical
and mechanical properties of fibers are critical in textile applications. These
characteristics have an effect on the end product’s properties. The objective of this
research is to establish the characteristics of the extracted fiber from the Curcuma
zedoaria plant and to evaluate whether it can be used as a textile raw fiber material for
yarn production.
RJTA 2. Materials and methods
2.1 Material
Pseudo-stems of Curcuma zedoaria were harvested in February 2020 in Bandung City, West
Java, Indonesia. The pseudo-stems chosen were nearly identical in color and size. The
pseudo-stems used in this study were around 9–12 months old and approximately 40-cm
long.
2.2 Methods
2.2.1 Fiber extraction. Coldwater retting was used to extract Curcuma zedoaria fibers
(Figure 2). The leaves were removed from the pseudo-stems and the stems were cleaned
[Figure 2(a)]. After that, the pseudo-stems were placed in a container filled with water until it
completely covered them [Figure 2(b)]. The retting process took 35 days to complete. After
completing the retting process, the fiber separation process was initiated [Figure 2(c)].
The pseudo-stems were lined on a flat surface and the pseudo-stem and other material
covering the fibers were rubbed together until the fibers separated and could be pulled apart
[Figure 2(d)]. Because of the prolonged immersion of the pseudo-stems in water, the stems
develop an unpleasant odor, so the extracted fibers were rinsed with water until clean and
odorless. Following that, the fibers were dried in the shade to avoid direct sunlight exposure.
The yield of fiber was 3.54%. Figure 3 depicts the Curcuma zedoaria fibers obtained through
extraction compared to a 30 cm ruler.
2.2.2 Geometric properties analysis: fiber length. The length of Curcuma zedoaria fibers
was determined in accordance with “Determination of bast fiber length” (National Standard
of Indonesia number 08–1113-1989). A 100-strand fiber bundle were tested. The thread
bases’ ends were leveled and knotted. The fiber bundle was then leveled. The fiber bundle
was straightened without tension. The longest fiber bundle was then measured. 15 samples
were measured and averaged. The fiber bundle length was 80% of the total measured.
2.2.3 Geometric properties analysis: Fineness. The National Standard of Indonesia
number 08-1111-1989, Bast fiber fineness determination, was used as guidance to conduct
the fiber fineness testing. This test was conducted to ascertain the degree of fiber fineness,
which is typically given in numerical units such as Tex. A bunch of fibers were combed
parallel, then cut to 30-mm length, counted to 150 strands and weighed. The fineness of the
fiber was determined by the ratio between the weight and length of the fiber. Ten samples
were prepared and analyzed.
2.2.4 Geometric properties analysis: cross-section view and longitudinal view. A Hitachi
SU 3500 scanning electron microscope was used to examine the morphology of the
Curcuma zedoaria fiber. The pictures were obtained at 10–1,500 kV accelerating voltages
and 100X–1500X magnifications. The fiber cross-sections were observed by cutting fibers
transversely with the assistance of a cork, needle and yarn. The fiber was cut lengthwise to
determine the longitudinal view.
2.2.5 Mechanical behavior analysis: Tensile strength and elongation. The National
Standard of Indonesia number 08-1112-1989, Tensile strength and elongation of bast fiber
per bundle, was used as guidance to conduct tests on the tensile strength and elongation of
fibers. Tensolab’s Autodyn Tensile Machine was used to test fiber strength and elongation.
Each fiber bundle weighed between 400 and 600 mg. A five-centimeter sample of fibrous
material was created by straightening the fibers to around five millimeters in width and
attaching their ends with adhesive paper. Up to fifteen bundles were sampled. Each
bundle’s tensile strength and elongation were measured.
2.2.6 Chemical fiber functional group analysis. Characterization of the chemical
functional groups that were included in the Curcuma zedoaria fiber sample, a Fourier
Curcuma
zedoaria
pseudo-stems
fibers
Figure 2.
Cold water retting
process
RJTA
Figure 3.
Curcuma zedoaria
fiber
3.3 Geometric properties analysis: fiber cross-section view, longitudinal view, shape and
structure
Figure 4 presents the cross-section images of Curcuma zedoaria fiber captured using
Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) at four different magnifications. The cross-
section of the Curcuma zedoaria fiber bundle appeared to be flattened elliptical. One
fiber bundle consisted of several single fibers or elementary fibers. If the fiber bundle
was associated as an ellipse, then the longest diameter (major axis) of the fiber
bundle ranged from 59 to117 micrometers, while the shortest diameter (minor axis) of
the fiber bundles ranges from 17 to 36 micrometers. In a single fiber there was a
lumen, which was an empty part in the middle of the fiber. The cross-section of the
lumen varied from ellipse to full circle. The lumen diameter ranged from 2.31 to 18.91
micrometers.
Figure 4.
Cross section images
of Curcuma zedoaria
fiber at four different
magnifications:
a. 500X; b.1000X;
c. 2000X; d.5000X
Figure 5 illustrates images of a longitudinal view of a Curcuma zedoaria fiber bundle Curcuma
obtained at two separate locations on the fiber at three different magnifications. The zedoaria
surface of the Curcuma zedoaria fiber bundle appeared rough and uneven in the
longitudinal section. The Curcuma zedoaria fiber appeared to have parallel lines along
pseudo-stems
the length of it. These lines were made up of single fibers that were joined together to fibers
form fiber bundles. Impurities were visible on the Curcuma zedoaria fiber surface. The
fiber bundle diameter ranged from 139.41 to 290.23 micrometers, whereas the diameter
of elementary fiber or single fiber ranged from 3.49 to 16.42 micrometers. The
roughness on the fiber bundle’s surface affects friction, which is beneficial during the
Figure 5.
Longitudinal view of
a Curcuma zedoaria
fiber obtained at two
separate locations at
three different
magnifications:
a-b. 200 X; c-d. 500 X;
e-f. 1000 X
RJTA manufacturing process, regardless of whether the fiber is produced as nonwoven or
enhancement the composite.
Figure 6.
FTIR vibrational
spectrum of Curcuma
zedoaria fiber
(Tawakkal et al., 2016). The stretching vibrations of C–O and O–H in fiber cause the extreme Curcuma
peak around 1,047.35 cm 1 (Dalmis, Köktas , et al., 2020). The band at 896.90 cm 1 corresponds zedoaria
to b-glycosidic connections between monosaccharides (Mwaikambo and Ansell, 2002). This
finding indicates that the main elements of natural cellulose fiber (cellulose, hemicellulose and
pseudo-stems
also lignin) are represented in comparable amounts to those discovered in frequently used fibers
natural cellulose fibers such as jute and hemp (Dalmis, Kilic, et al., 2020).
Figure 7.
Curcuma zedoaria
fiber diffraction
pattern
4. Conclusions
Curcuma zedoaria fibers were studied for their geometric properties, mechanical behavior,
chemical fiber composition, physical fiber composition, frictional behavior and moisture
behavior, as well as their potential applications. Curcuma zedoaria had long fiber length that
could be cut to a specific length and spun in a short-staple spinning machine. Curcuma
zedoaria fiber chemical composition comprised of cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin. These
results were confirmed by FTIR test. The Crystallinity Index of Curcuma zedoaria fiber was
analyzed to be 56%. The fineness, tenacity, elongation, coefficient of friction and moisture
regain values of Curcuma zedoaria meet the requirements for industrial textile purposes. It
might be inferred from this that Curcuma zedoaria fibers could be used as an alternate
resource for textile yarns in industrial applications.
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Corresponding author
Wiah Wardiningsih can be contacted at: wiahwards@gmail.com
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