Y2 Module 2 Drafting and Cutting Pattern For Ladies' Casual Apparel Part 2

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Republic of the Philippines

Department of Education
PUBLIC TECHNICAL-
VOCATIONAL
HIGH SCHOOLS
PUBLIC TECHNICAL-
VOCATIONAL
HIGH SCHOOLS
Unit of Competency: Draft and Cut Pattern for Ladies’ Casual

Apparel
Module no. 2 Module Title: Drafting and Cutting Pattern for
Ladies’ Casual Apparel
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MODULE 2
QUALIFICATION TITLE : GARMENTS NC II
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PREPARE AND CUT MATERIALS

FOR LADIES CASUAL APPAREL
MODULE TITLE : PREPARING AND CUTTING

MATERIALS FOR LADIES CASUAL
APPAREL
NOMINAL DURATION : 60 HOURS
GARMENTS NC II
WHAT IS THIS MODULE ABOUT?
This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in

preparing and cutting materials for ladies casual apparel. It includes the
laying out of patterns, pinning, marking and preparing fabric for cutting.
WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?
At the end this module, you should be able to:

a. prepare materials / fabric for ladies casual apparel;
b. layout, pin and mark patterns on the materials; and
c. cut materials.
WHAT DO YOU ALREADY KNOW?
Pre-test
Let us find out how much you know about preparing and cutting
materials for ladies’ casual apparel. Read and understand the items
being described below. Choose the letter of the correct answer and write
it in your quiz notebook.
1. It is the correct procedure in preparing the materials for cutting.

a. shrinking, hanging, straightening, pressing
b. shrinking, straightening, hanging, pressing
c. straightening, shrinking, hanging, pressing
d. straightening, hanging, shrinking, pressing
2. This is the first step to do before laying the pattern over the cloth.
a. hang
b. press
c. soak
d. zigzag
3. It is essential in laying the pattern on the cloth.
a. pins
b. scissors
c. tape measure
d. weight
4. It is used to transfer the construction marks of the pattern to the
fabric.
a. ball pen
b. crayon
c. tailor’s chalk
d. tracing wheel
5. It is the direction in which the thread of a fabric runs.
a. facing
b. grain
c. hem
d. Interlining
6. It is the best tool used in cutting fabrics.
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a. pinking shears
b. button hole scissors
c. trimming shears
d. dressmaker’s best-handled sheers
7. This refers to the finished edge of a fabric.
a. cut edge
b. hem
c. raw edge
d. selvage
8. This is the blended fiber, which is manufactured by interlacing
threads or yarn.
a. knitted
b. laminated
c. lapped
d. woven
9. This is the dressmaker’s guide in cutting a fabric.
a. pattern
b. pins
c. shears
d. tailor’s chalk
10. This refers to the arrangement of the pattern pieces on the fabric.
a. cut
b. layout
c. mark
d. trace
11. This is how patterns are arranged economically on fabrics
a. along the centerfold
b. along the selvage
c. apart
d. close to each other
12. This is used in cutting the cloth to achieve clean and even edges.
a. blade
b. cutting shears
c. embroidery scissors
d. pinking shears
13. When cutting the material, this is how the notches should be cut
from the seam allowance.
a. downward
b. outward
c. sideward
d. upward
14. This printed item on the label of the cloth is NOT a fabric
property.
a. colorfast
b. crease - resistant
c. preshrunk
d. synthetic
15. This is the material from which a garment is made.
a. cotton
b. fabrics
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c. fiber
d. yarn
16. These are the articles that make the costume complete.
a. accessories
b. decorations
c. ornaments
d. trimmings
17. This is considered a general rule in removing wrinkles and
creases on the
materials.
a. have it dry-cleaned.
b. press on the right side of the cloth.
c. press on the wrong side of the cloth.
d. use damp pad and press
18. This refers to the grain of fabric which runs along the selvage.
a. bias
b. crosswise
c. lengthwise
d. twirls
19. One of these is NOT a dress/garment trimmings.
a. beads
b. corsage
c. lace
d. rickrack
20. This is NOT a fabric fiber content property.
a. animal fiber
b. knitted
c. plant fiber
d. synthetic fiber
21. This is a characteristic of a lengthwise grain.
a. it has less stretch
b. it is stronger
c. the selvage is there
d. all of these
22. This is a kind of fabric that can be preshrunk by laundering and
drying.
a. dry-cleanable fabric
b. knitted fabric
c. permanent press
d. washable fabric
23. This is the reason why one must preshrunk washable fabric
before cutting.
a. to avoid fitting alteration
b. to prevent shrinkage
c. to remove any sizing
d. all of the above
24. This refers to a pair of scissors which is useful in working with
fine details in delicate fabrics.
a. buttonhole
b. embroidery
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c. pinking
d. trimming
25. It is a cutting tool that gives an attractive zigzag edge to fabrics
that does not ravel.
a. baguio cut
b. pinking shears
c. shears
d. scissors
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LESSON 1
PREPARING MATERIALS/FABRIC FOR LADIES CASUAL APPAREL
WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?
This lesson deals with the choice of fabrics, its preparation before
cutting and handling it, selection and preparation of accessories and
trimmings in accordance with specified garment style or design.
At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. explain the techniques in handling the fabric before cutting and
2. name the kinds of trimming and accessories.
Let us find out how much you know the preparation of materials or
fabrics for casual apparel. Choose the correct answer from among the
choices and write it in your quiz notebook.
1. This is NOT a fabric property printed on the label of the cloth.

a. colorfast
b. crease-resistant
c. preshrunk
d. synthetics
2. It is a fabric that can be preshrunk through laundering and drying.
b. permanent press
c. washable fabric
d. none of these
3. It is a cloth materials from which garments are made.
a. cotton
b. fabric
c. fibers
d. yarn
4. This makes a costume complete.
a. accessories
b. decorations
c. ornaments
d. trimmings
5. It is considered a general rule in removing wrinkles and creases on
the materials.
a. have it dry-cleaned.
b. press on the right side of the cloth.
c. press on the wrong side of the cloth.
d. use damp pad and press
5
6. This refers to the grain of the fabric that is the strongest and has
less stretch.
a. bias
b. crosswise
c. lengthwise
d. twirls
7. These are NOT an example of dress/garment trimmings.
a. beads
b. corsage
c. lace
d. rickrack
8. This characteristic is present if grain is lengthwise.
a. has less stretch
b. off-grain
c. has stretch
d. weak
9. It is done to avoid shrinkage after laundering.
a. drying
b. pressing
c. shrinking
d. soaking
10. This is NOT fabric fiber content property.
e. animal fiber
f. knitted
g. plant fiber
h. synthetic fiber
LET US STUDY
Words to Study
 Fabric – a cloth material of which a

garment is made
 Grain – direction or arrangement of
fabric yarn.
 Lengthwise grain – fabric threads
running along the selvage
 Accessories - articles that complete the
costume.
 Trimming – any ornamental addition to
finished garment
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Fabric is the basic material in making garments. In order to

produce quality products, there is a need to check it for faults. Use the
checklist to help you examine your fabric.
Common Faults Found in Fabrics

 Yarn flaws - broken, missing, uneven, uncut wales
 Color changes - spotting, shading, rubbing off
 Misprinted pattern - off-grain, off-center
 Grease or oil spots
 Tears or cuts
 Sheds wrinkles - crush a corner to check for wrinkling
 Over finished - brittle, stiff
 Oversized - white powder appears when fabric is rubbed
 “Set” of grain - grain with permanent press cannot be
changed; avoid it off-square 1” or more across
width
Choosing Fabric
A wide selection of fabrics in various textures and colors is

available today. When selecting a fabric for your project, it is important to
take the fabric’s fiber content, its texture (or “hand”), drape, color, and in
some instances and the size of its print, or its horizontal stretch, into
account. Once a piece of fabric is cut, it cannot be returned, and
mistakes can be costly.
The table below gives an information on the description, content
and commercial names of the fabrics available in the market.
Fabrics Fiber Content Commercial Names

Woven Fabrics Cotton  Calico
 Chino
Generally, medium-  Cotton Batiste
weight, woven fabrics  Cotton
are easy to handle and Broadcloth
are the best choice for  Cotton Corduroy
beginners. Stiff and  Cotton Lawn
bulky or fine fabrics  Cotton Poplin
are more difficult to  Denim
sew with.
 Gingham
 Linen
Microfiber Fabrics Silk  Crepe de Chine

 Dupioni silk
These are chemically  Habotai Silk
produced filaments ( China Silk)
from nylon and  Silk Organza
polyester. It is
washable but they
tend to be heat
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sensitive so care
should be taken when
pressing them.
Wool  Camel Hair
 Cashmere
 Wool Tartan
 Worsted Wool
 Woven Wool
Knitted Fabrics  Natural wool  Double Knit

 Cotton  Interlock knit
It is constructed with  Various blends  Spandex
loops rather than warp  Sweatsuit Fabric
and weft threads being  Tricot
woven together.
Special Fabrics  Wool  Boucle

 Silk  Chiffon
Special occasion wear.  Taffeta
Makes use of the most  Velvet
luxurious and
expensive fabrics  Threads of silk,  Lace
constructed in a cotton or  Satin
variety of ways. synthetic fiber
 Nylon  Tulle
Chemical Fabric Finishes on the Label
Sanforized - a special mechanical process / treatment

so as to prevent shrinkage
Colorfast - retaining color of dye in faded when fabric
is subjected to the action of water
Crease- resistant- this process is permanent and renders
fabric resistant to crease
Permanent Press - this finish is permanent and endures
through many washing
Handling Fabrics Before Cutting
The importance of fabric preparation is to preserve the fit of the

finished garment after washing.
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Techniques in Preparing the Fabrics for Cutting:
A. Shrinking and soaking the fabric by laundering and drying
Washable fabrics can be pre-shrunk by laundering and drying. Pre –

shrunk washable fabric to prevent shrinkage later.
Procedure in Shrinking Washable Fabric
1. Fold the fabric lengthwise.

2. Immerse and soak the fabric in cold water (in large basin).
3. Let it stand for 30 to 60 minutes.
4. Remove it from the water. Do not wring nor dry the fabrics on
the clothesline.
5. Press the cloth when completely dry.
B. Straightening the end of fabrics

This process is to draw the thread or grain of the material of the
uneven crosswise or lengthwise edges to make it straight.
How to Straighten the Ends of the Fabric
1. Clip the selvage on the shortest edge of the fabric.

2. Pick-up a loose crosswise threads and pull it out slowly.
3. Pull the thread all the way across the selvage.
4. Cut along a pulled thread.
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C. Stretching the grains of fabrics

The process of pulling the cloth diagonally from one corner to the
opposite corner thus making the lengthwise to be right angle.
How to Stretch the Grain of Fabrics
1. Grasp opposite diagonal corners and pull.

2. Check to see if the fabric has been straightened.
3. Keep on pulling until the selvage comes together.
4. Smooth the material on the table and check if the fabric ends lie
even.
4. Pressing
The process of removing wrinkles and creases in fabric by using
the flat iron. The general rule is to press on the wrong side of the cloth in
the lengthwise grain. Pressing may enlarge or shrink the fabrics.
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 Dress or Garment Trimmings and Accessories
Trimming details change continually, so you should study

trimming types and check them in the fashion news. Plan the trimming
as integral part of the garment, not last minute addition. Casual apparel,
even in its simplicity, needs trimming in order to be complete.
 Trimmings are the ornamental addition to the bare fabrics or a

finished garment. This is also used to enhance or emphasize the
beauty of the apparel.
Common Trimmings Used in Dresses
1. Appliqué – a separate design for petals, leaves or figures which is cut

and applied to another surface
2. Binding – a bias strip used to decorate an edge
3. Buttons – pieces of bones, metals, glasses of various shapes having
shank or holes
4. Collar – bands attached over necklines, sometimes they are cut as
part of the front bodice
5. Embroidery – an ornamental needlework consisting of designs, work
on fabric by hand or machine
6. Frog - loop fastening made of braid or cording
7. Gathers – fullness shirring consist of three or more rows of gather.
8. Lace – open work fabric made with bobbins, needles or hook and
can be hand or machine made
9. Loop – a fastening which extends beyond the finish edges used
on closings with no lap
10. Pocket – a piece of fabric applied to a garment to form a container
11. Ribbons – a narrow fabric of silk or velvet used for trimming
12. Rickrack – a flat woven zigzag braid in mercerized cotton or rayon
13. Ruffles –strips of cloth gathered together or pleated as a trimming
to finish edges
14. Scallop – an edge finish made up of a series of semi-circles
15. Tassel – threads or braid of silk or other fiber hanging in loose
fringes
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 Accessories – are the articles that complete the costume. The final
touches that make the outfit perfect.
The following are the accessories used in dresses
1. Bands – strips of fabric, ribbon or bias applied to edges or set into

garments to finish or decorate
2. Bracelet – ornamental chain for wrist and arm
3. Brooch - a large ornamental pin placed in front or shoulder arm
4. Chocker – a short necklace or jeweled collar worn closely around the
neck
5. Corsage – a bouquet of real or artificial flowers worn on the right
shoulder or chest
6. Fan – a flat device mounted on frame permanently
7. Handkerchief – a piece of cloth cotton, linen or silk usually square and
decorated with lace and embroidery.
8. Hat – a shaped head covering, having crown and brim
9. Hosiery – consist of hose and stockings.
10. Shoes – high-heeled or flat-closed footwear fitted for comfort,
freedom and style
LET US REMEMBER
Fabric is stronger, long lasting and drapes well when

cut in lengthwise fold. It should be grain perfect
before cutting, shrinking and pressing to come up
with a perfect cut and fit.
HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?
1. What is the difference between natural and synthetic fiber?

________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
2. Why is preshrinking of fabric important?

________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
3. Explain briefly the techniques in preparing the fabrics before

cutting.
a. ______________________________________________________________
b. ______________________________________________________________
c. ______________________________________________________________
d. ______________________________________________________________
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LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED
Task 1 Preparing the fabric for cutting
 Materials:
1. Fabric
2. Basin of water
3. Flat iron
4. Pressing board
 Instructions:
1. Shrink fabric
2. Straighten fabric
3. Stretch fabric
4. Press fabric
 Evaluation Checklist
Put a check ( √ ) after each item yes no

1. Was the fabric straightened out properly?
2. Was the fabric grain perfect?
3. Was the fabric pre-shrunk?
4. Was the fabric pressed to remove wrinkles before
cutting?
Task 2
Below is a list of fabrics: Classify the commercial fabrics according

to its fiber content.
Fiber Content
Fabrics Silk Cotton Wool
1. Woven
2. Microfiber
3. Knitted
4. Special Fabrics
Task 3 Enrichment Activity
From the given project plan in the previous module (drafting and
cutting pattern for ladies casual apparel), select appropriate trimmings
and accessories. Discuss to the class how these trimmings are selected
and attractively placed in the dress.
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RESOURCES:
A. Tools
1. basin of water
2. flat iron
3. ironing board
4. scissor
5. clothes clip
B. Materials:
1. cloth
2. clothesline
3. trimmings
4. accessories
REFERENCES:
Compiled Instructional Materials.

Iowa H.E. Association; Unit Method of Clothing Construction, 1977, pp.
20-25.
Navarro, Leticia de Guzman, Homemaking for You and Me; 1985, pp. 12-
13.
Singer, Sewing Manual
T.H.E. III, Home Technology, Clothing l; p. 33.
Talbot, Constance, The Complete Book of Sewing; 1963, PP. 29-30.
KEY TO CORRECTION
1. d
2. c
3. b
4. a
5. c
6. c
7. b
8. a
9. b
10. b
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LESSON 2
LAYING OUT, PINNING AND MARKING PATTERNS ON THE

MATERIAL
This lesson deals with the laying out of patterns, pinning and
marking seam allowances, darts and pocket locations in accordance with
the fabric guidelines and specified garment style.
At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. determine the wrong and right side of fabric;
2. enumerate the kinds of fabric folds before the making the layout;
3. apply the steps in laying out patterns to the cloth; and
4. demonstrate the procedure in tracing / marking sewing lines on
fabric.
Pre-test
Let us find out how much you already know about laying out,
pinning and marking patterns on the fabric.
Choose the letter of the correct answer from each of the following
item below and write it in your quiz notebook.
1. This is how patterns are arranged economically on fabrics.

c. close to each other
d. apart from each other
2. This is the dressmaker’s guide in cutting fabrics.
a. pattern
b. pins
c. shoes
d. tailor’s chalk
3. This means to arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric.
a. to cut
b. to lay out
c. to mark
d. to trace
4. This is the first step in laying out pattern.
a. check and mark seam allowances and stitching line
b. fold the material with right side folded in
15
c. lay out the largest pattern piece on the wrong side of the
cloth
d. checked the pattern well
5. The reason why pin marking is necessary.
a. the pattern has less construction details
b. you are in a hurry to finish your work
c. you do hand basting
d. you sew immediately
6. This is where grain line is classified.
a. pattern alteration
b. pattern drafting
c. pattern easing
d. pattern symbol
7. This measuring tool used in marking straight line.
a. pencil
b. ruler
c. tape measure
d. tracing wheel
8. This is a grain line where the pins are inserted.
a. crosswise
b. diagonal
c. lengthwise
d. off-grain
9. This is used in holding the pattern pieces and cloth together.
a. clip
b. fastener
c. needle
d. pin
10. The side where the material is folded.
a. lower
b. right
c. upper
d. wrong
LET US STUDY
Words to Study
 Selvage - finished edge of fabric

 Grain perfect - lengthwise and crosswise yarn intersect at right angle
 Marking - the transfer of lines from the pattern to the fabric
 Clip - cut or trim with shears or scissors
 Notch - a V-shape marking on the edge of pattern pieces to indicate matching
locations along a seamline
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 Determine the right and wrong sides of the fabric
Before laying out the patterns be sure that you fold the fabric on its
wrong side.
Below are tips to identify the right or wrong side of fabric.
1. Prints are more visible and bright on the right side.

2. Right side has smooth and finished appearance.
3. Right side selvage is smoother than the wrong side.
4. Wrong side has loose thread ends.
5. Whole, silk and most nylons are folded or rolled with their right
side in.
 Fabric Folds
There are four kinds of fabric folds:
1. Lengthwise centerfold
The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with the selvage
together.
2. Crosswise centerfold
The fabric is folded crosswise with the raw edges together.
17
3. Off-center lengthwise fold

The fabric is folded lengthwise with the selvage meeting at
the center.
4. Off-center crosswise fold

The fabric is folded crosswise with the raw edge meeting at
the center
The hints in folding are the following:
1. Where selvages meet, they should match exactly. Shifting of slippery

or soft fabric can be prevented by pinning selvages together every few
inches.
2. If the material was folded at the time of the purchase, make sure the
fold line is accurate and press it again if necessary.
3. When no fold is indicated, lay fabric right side up.
 Pattern Layout
It is the placement and arrangement of pattern pieces on the

materials for marking and cutting.
Procedure in Laying Out Pattern on the Cloth:
1. Patterns must be checked well before laying them on the cloth.

2. Examine all the necessary pattern symbols before laying them on
the cloth.
3. Choose the longest cutting table to prevent the fabric from
hanging over the edge of table.
4. When laying each pattern piece, check the following :
a. lengthwise grain position
b. the center fold
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c. if it is to be duplicated
d. if it is to be sectioned to be cut singly, or not through two
layers
5. Fold the material on the right side with selvage folded together.
6. Lay out the largest pattern piece first on the wrong side of the
material.
7. Pin pattern piece in all the way around the edge.
8. Insert pins along the lengthwise grain.
9. Lay the small pattern pieces and pin them in vacant places.
10. Let the seam allowances touch each other whenever possible.
11. Mark the stitching lines before cutting.
 Pinning
Pins used in dressmaking are made of steel or brass with a tin
coating.
The types of pins used in dressmaking:
1. Dressmaker’s pin is of medium size and has 1 1/16 inches long.

2. Glass-headed pins are easy to handle.
3. Lace pins or silk pins
It is 1 inch long, finest size with sharp points and used for
lightweight fabrics.
4. T- pins stay in position in an open woven fabrics.
5. Safety pins
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 Pinning Pattern to the Cloth:
1. Be sure the pattern piece is placed on the straight grain by measuring

the grain from the fabric’s edge.
2. After measuring the grain line, smooth the tissue and place pins
diagonally towards the corners of the pattern.
3. Then place pins where necessary to keep the pattern pieces flat for
cutting.
 Marking
In doing this marking details, we have to learn the various marking

tolls needed.
What to mark? All details should be marked; however, these are

not shown by notches or clips when long straight edges are left
unmarked stitching guide is used to keep seams even.
Construction details to be marked:
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 Seam lines
 Center lines along closing
 Fold lines
 Position for ease or gathers
 Position for pockets
 Buttonholes and buttons
 Slash line
 Point where stitching line should stop
Marking tools are required for transferring pattern markings to

garment fabric pieces and for making alterations on garments.
There are various types of marking tools:
1. Tailor’s chalk
This is essential as a marker for use on materials.
Tailor’s chalk is available in a range of colors and is
removed by brushing.
2. Wax chalk
This is available in black or white and is used for
woolen fabrics. Wax can be remove d by pressing.
21
3. Dressmaker’s pencil
This is a vailable in white or pastel shades. This
chalk pencil is used to make fine lines on fabric. It has an
erasing brush at one end.
4. Tracing wheel
It is a saw -tooth with a sharp point. This tool is
used to transfer pattern markings to the wrong side of the
fabric. This is used with the dressmaker’s carbon paper.
5. Dressmaker’s carbon paper

This typ e of tracing paper is available in a numbe r
of colors including white, red, and blue. It is use d in
marking all types of fabric in combination with a tracing
wheel. This work is best on plane, flat -surfaced fabrics.
6. Liquid Marking Pen

This is felt -tip liquid marking pen. Marks may
disappear after 48 hours, and the other washes out.
The marking tips:
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1. Marking is done on the wrong side of the fabric.

2. Pattern symbols are transferred on the wrong side of the fabric
after cutting and before the patterns are removed.
3. Construction symbols and marks for placement of details
should be transferred.
How to Transfer Pattern Markings
1. Place the garment and the pattern piece on top of the tracing
paper.
2. Mark straight lines using the tracing wheel. Get over lines only
once.
3. The tip of darts should be indicated with a short line.
4. Remove the pattern piece then place the pins back.
5. Work on the other side of the fabric, re-trace over previous lines
to transfer the other half of the garment.
 Marking darts and pocket location
For a good fitting, darts may be used in ladies blouse and skirts.
Dart is a fold in the fabric stitch wider at one end and tapering to the
other end. It is used to give fullness or shape to the garments.
Pocket is a small piece of cloth attached to the garment, which
serves as a holder of items such as money, wallet and handkerchief. It
also serves as decoration on the garments. Accuracy in tracing the marks
of the location of darts and pockets is necessary.
Marking dart location:
1. Mark the stitching lines and the line through the center
known as fold line.
2. Mark a line at right angle to the point of the dart. Mark the
centerline before marking the two side lines to prevent the
pattern from shifting.
23
How to mark pocket location:
1. Mark pocket location on the wrong side of the fabric.

2. Transfer the markings to the right side by basting along the
line by hand or machine.
3. This marking must be shown at the right side of the fabric
where the pocket is to be attached.
LET US REMEMBER
In laying out, pinning and marking seam allowances, darts and

pocket location, cautiousness should be observed in order to avoid
errors in cutting the materials.
HOW MUCH YOU HAVE LEARNED?
A. Recalling Facts
Fill in the blanks with the correct answer.
1. In_____________, the fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with the

selvage together.
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2. _______________ the stitching lines before cutting

3. Mark the notches ________________ on the fabric.
4. _______________ is a saw-tooth with a sharp point, and used for
transferring marking lines from the pattern to the cloth.
5. In _____________, the fabric is folded crosswise with the saw edge
meeting at the center.
B. Thinking Critically
Answer the following questions.
1. Is it correct to let the fabric hang over the edge of the table? Why?
__________________________________________________________________
2. How should the pins be placed on the pattern?
_____________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________
3. What should be laid out first on the table before the pattern pieces?
Why?
_____________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________
4. How should you lay out the pattern pieces to avoid wasting fabrics?
_____________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________
Check everything before starting to cut.
Read and understand the following questions below. Write yes or

no on the blank.
_____1. Did I arrange the patterns according to their order of

construction?
_____2. Did I fold the fabrics with the right sides together?
_____3. Did I lay my pattern on the wrong side of the fabric?
_____4. Did I lay out my pattern pieces along the grain line?
_____5. Did I lay out my big pieces first and the small pieces last?
_____6. Did I make full use of the fabric by piecing small pieces on the
pattern?
_____7. Did I pin the pattern to the fabric correctly?
_____8. Did I transfer all needed pattern markings?
_____9. Did I put pins four inches apart?
____10. Did I trace all marking lines and retrace them to the other half
before the pattern is removed?
If your answers to these questions are all yes, then you are ready to
cut the fabric.
25
Task 1 Check your performance using the criteria below.
Draw a happy face after each item  yes no

1. Are the pattern pieces laid out correctly and
economically?
2. Are the pattern pieces secured by pins?
3. Is the fabric cut with utmost care?
4. Do the positions of pins follow the grain line?
5. Are the marks transferred correctly and accurately?
Total
RESOURCES:
Tools: Equipment:
1. pins 1. cutting table
2. ruler
3. pencil Materials:
4. tailor’s chalk 1. cloth
5. tracing wheel 2. tracing paper
6. tracing board 3. pattern paper
REFERENCES:
SEDP, Home Technology, Clothing, p.34

Homemaking for You and Me, Second Year, p.14
Alcantara de Guzman, Inez, T.H.E. 1 Module, 1991, p.40
Iona Home Economics Association, Unit Method of Clothing
Construction, pp.44-47
Hilario, Carmelita, Clothing Technology Made Easy, 2001
Comiled Instruction Sheet in Garments 202
Webster Dictionary
Del Rosario, Marissa; del Rosario, Constancia Clothing and Textile 1 &11,
p.131
Kinderslay, Dorling; The Complete Book of Sewing, pp.10-13
KEY TO CORRECTION:
1. c 5. d 9. d
2. a 6. d 10. b
3. b 7. b
4. a 8. c
26
LESSON 3
CUTTING THE MATERIALS
This lesson deals with the study of the different cutting tools,
proper ways of using them and following the set of standards for the
accurate cutting of fabrics and check the garment parts after cutting.
At the end of the lesson, the student should be able to:

1. name the types of cutting tools used in dressmaking;
2. use cutting tools properly;
3. acquire skills in cutting fabric for casual attire; and
4. evaluate the completeness of garment parts after cutting.
Let us find out how much you know in cutting materials.
Pre-test
Read and understand the items below.

Choose the best answer from among the choices and write the
letter of the correct answer in your quiz notebook.
1. This is the appropriate cutting tool used in cutting fabrics.

a. Pinking shears c. dressmaker bent-
b. Trimming handled
shears d. buttonhole scissors
2. This is a dressmaker’s guide in cutting fabrics.
a. pattern c. shears
b. pins d. tailor’s chalk
3. When cutting the materials, this is how the notches should be cut
from the seam allowance.
a. inward c. sideward
b. outward d. upward
4. A type of scissor that is only used in working with fine details on
delicate fabrics.
a. buttonhole c. pinking
b. embroidery d. trimming
5. It is a cutting tool that gives an attractive zigzag edge to fabric that
does not ravel.
a. baguio cut c. pinking shear
b. dressmaker d. scissor
6. This is done periodically to a cutting tool.
27
a. charging c. oiling
b. cleaning d. sharpening
7. This is the best practice to be observes during the cutting process.
a. let the material hang on the sides of the
cutting table
b. keep the material
c. stop and recheck
d. walk around the table
8. It is a tool with one handle larger than the other.
a. cutting shear
b. embroidering scissor
c. seam ripper
d. thread clipper
9. This refers to pulling away of lengthwise and crosswise thread of
fabric.
a. edge c. ravel
b. grain d. selvage
10. This is pattern that should be laid out first on the cloth.
a. belt and facing
b. front and back bodice
c. pocket and yoke
d. sleeves and collar
LET US STUDY
Words to Study
 Ravel - the pulling away of the lengthwise and crosswise thread of

fibers
 Buttonhole – a slit in garment for the insertion and hold of buttons
 Cutting line – a solid printed line on a pattern piece used as a guide for
cutting out
 Embroidery - an ornamental needlework consisting of design works on
fabric by hand or machine
 Snip - to remove or cut with a short, light stroke of scissors.
Cutting is a crucial step in dressmaking. It should be done with haste.

Cutting needs complete concentration. For best result, assemble
everything you need, including threaded needles for basting, plenty of
pins, marking tools and sharp cutting tools before you start cutting.
Cutting tools are instruments that serve well if properly maintained.
The best quality cutting tools are hot-forge, high-grade steel honed to a
fine cutting edge. Blades should be joined with an adjustable screw to
ensure even pressure along the length of the blade.
Sharp cutting tools make clean cuts and well-defined notches.
Furthermore, and they do not damage fabric. On the other hand, dull
tools slow the cutting process, and make your hand and wrist tire easily.
Sewing cutting tools should not be used for other household task.
Cutting tools must be sharpened regularly and the joints are oiled
occasionally for better use.
28
Types of cutting tools and their uses:
1. Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears
These are made of quality steel and hold a sharp cutting edge. The
blades move easily and cut smoothly along the entire length and
the points should come together. Shears have the length of 7- 12
inches and are satisfactory for most apparel fabrics.
a. All steels, chrome-plated shears are for heavy duty cutting

b. Stainless steel blades and plastic handles are fine for
lightweight fabrics
c. A serrated edge shears, give maximum cutting control and is
used for synthetic fibers and slippery knits
2. Cutting scissors
a. Trimming scissor
It is 3-4 inches long. It is
used for trimmings,
clipping threads and
snipping slashes.
b. Embroidery scissor
It has 4-5 inches finely tapered blades. Both points are sharp
for use in working with fine details in delicate fabrics and in
embroidery work.
c. Buttonhole scissor
This is intended for making buttonholes.
2. Seam ripper
Hook quickly rips seams, opens
buttonholes and removes stitches.
This should be used carefully to
avoid piercing the fabric.
3. Thread clipper
It has spring action blades
which are used for snipping
threads.
29
4. Rotary cutter
It is an adaptation of the giant
rotary cutter used by the
garment industry. It works like a
pizza cutter and can be used by
left or right-handed sewers. The
rotary cutter is available in
different sizes with different
blades. When using a rotary
cutter, work on a cutting mat to
protect the blade and the cutting
surface.
5. Pinking shears / scalloping

shears
This is popular in zigzagging
or scalloped edge or for
seam finishes. This is used
to finish seams and raw
edges or many types of
fabric. It cuts a ravel-
resistant edge. This is not
satisfactory for straight
cutting.
6. Leather shears
These are used for
cutting leather and
suede. It has heavy
serrated edge.
7. Stitch ripper
This is smaller than seam
ripper, and it can cut
stitches close to the fabric.
8. Electric shear
This is available in one- or-two-speed models. Some are battery
operated, while the others maybe plugged into an electric outlet for
operation.
30
 CUTTING
Cutting with precision makes construction easier and more

accurate. It also contributes to the final success of the garment. To avoid
mistakes cut all pieces in one work session.
Be sure to have an exclusive table for cutting in a suitable place.
Get everything organized and do all the cutting at once.
Observe the precautionary measures while cutting:
1. Work with clean hands.

2. Be careful and never play with your cutting tools.
Steps in Cutting Out the Fabrics
1. Have everything handy. Gather all the equipment needed for the
cutting process.
2. Use a pair of sharp cutting shears with long even strokes.
3. Place one hand on the pattern close to the cutting line and hold
before cutting the fabric.
4. To cut out the piece, rest the cutting shear on the table so that the
fabric is slightly raised.
5. Cut first the large pieces, then the small ones.
6. Cut notches away from seam allowance. Notches help to match
sections during construction.
7. As you cut, walk around the table instead of pulling the materials.
8. Do not allow any parts of fabric to hang over the edge of a cutting
table. This is especially important in knitted fabrics.
9. Cut the entire garment at one time.
10.After cutting each part, put it aside. Do not remove the pins and
pattern, for you will need them in marking the fabric.
11.Collect and tie all scraps of cloth together for future use.
Notes: When cutting, always start at the lower end of cloth or at

your left hand side . Doing this will avoid much remnants.
Regarding the sleeves, the ways may vary, depending on the

style. You may add more allowance on top sleeves, and other
kinds of sleeves.
31
LET US REMEMBER
Success in sewing calls for the right tools at the

right time. All tools must be appropriate in a
proper order and you must know how to use them
to save time and produce the best result.
Perfect your skill in cutting the garment by
trying to practice the correct steps. Consider the
right handling of the cutting shears, cutting along
heavy-marked lines and keeping the working area
neat and orderly
HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?

A. Identification
Write your answer in your quiz notebook.
__________1. It is an instrument that serves well if properly maintained.

__________2. A cutting tool inappropriate for straight cutting.
__________3. A part of the cutting tool that should be oiled occasionally
for better use?
__________4. It is 3-4 inches long and is used for clipping threads.
__________5. This is used to finish seams and raw edges.
B. Analytical Thinking
Answer the following question.
1. How do you maintain the durability of cutting tools?
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
2. Describe the bent-handled dressmaker shears.

_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
3. What is the difference between scissors and shears?

_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
32
4. What precautionary measures are to be observed while cutting?

_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
5. Enumerate the steps to follow in cutting fabrics.

_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
Task 1
Activity title: Cutting the Fabric

Materials: Cutting tables, cloth, pattern, sleeves
Instruction: Perform the steps in cutting fabric (By group)
Scoring Rubrics
Check the column that corresponds to your honest evaluation of

the steps:
Items To Be Evaluated Rating Scale
Processes (70%) 5 4 3 2 1 Total

1. The steps were followed in sequential
order.
2. Large table was used for cutting.
3. Cutting tools were available on hand.
4. Fabrics were not hung on the table
edge.
5. Large pieces were laid out first.
6. Edges and curves of fabrics were
smoothly cut.
7. Cutting techniques were applied.
8. Steps were followed correctly.
Work Habit (30%)
9. Manipulated cutting tools properly.
10. Displayed extra care while cutting
smoothly.
33
How to rate your performance?
Total
50 – 100%
40 – 90%
30 – 85%
20 – 80%
10 – 75%
RESOURCES:
Tools: Materials:
1. cutting shear 1. cloth
2. cutting table 2. pattern paper
3. ruler
REFERENCES:
Hilario, Carmelita, Clothing Technology Made Easy, 2001

Iowa Home Economics Association, Unit Method in Clothing Construction,
pp. 43
Talbot, Constance, The Complete Book of Sewing,1963, pp. 90-91
Dorling, Kindersley; The Complete Book of Sewing, pp. 11
Webster Dictionary
Singer, Sewing Manual Simplicity, Sewing Book, p.37
Faiola, Theodora Priest, Ed.D., Pullen, Anne, M. S. Guide to Clothing, p. 273
KEY TO CORRECTION:
1. d 5. c 9. c
2. a 6. d 10. b
3. b 7. d
4. b 8. a
34
Post-test
Let us find out how much you know about preparing and cutting
materials for ladies’ casual apparel. Read and understand the items
being described below. Choose the letter of the correct answer and write
it in your quiz notebook.
1. This should be observed as a general rule in removing wrinkles and

creases on the materials.
a. Have it dry-cleaned.
b. Press on the right side of the cloth.
c. Press on the wrong side of the cloth.
d. Use damp pad and press
2. It is a material of which a garment is made.
a. cotton
b. fabrics
c. fiber
d. yarn
3. When cutting the material, this is how notches should be cut from
the seam allowance.
a. downward
b. outward
c. sideward
d. upward
4. This is used when cutting the cloth in order to get clean and evenly
cut edges.
a. blade
b. cutting shears
c. embroidery scissors
d. pinking shears
5. It is a grain of fabric that runs along the selvage.
a. bias
b. crosswise
c. lengthwise
d. twirls
6. This is NOT a fabric properly printed on the label of the cloth.
a. colorfast
b. crease - resistant
c. preshrunk
d. synthetic
7. These are articles that make the costume complete.
a. accessories
b. decorations
c. ornaments
d. trimmings
8. This is NOT a kind of trimming.
a. beads
b. corsage
c. lace
d. rickrack
35
9. It is a cutting tool that gives an attractive zigzag edge to fabrics that

do not ravel.
a. baguio cut
b. pinking shears
c. shears
d. scissors
10. This is a characteristics of a lengthwise grain.
a. it has less stretch
b. it is stronger
c. the selvage is there
d. all of these
11. This is not a fabric property.
a. animal fiber
b. knitted
c. plant fiber
d. synthetic fiber
12. This type of scissors is only useful in working with fine details of
delicate fabrics.
a. buttonhole
b. embroidery
c. pinking
d. trimming
13. The reason why washable fabric is preshrunk.
a. to avoid fitting alteration
b. to prevent shrinkage
c. to remove any sizing
d. all of the above
14. It is a kind of fabric that can be preshrunk by laundering and
drying.
b. knitted fabric
c. permanent press
d. washable fabric
15. This is a term used in arranging the pattern pieces on the fabric.
a. to cut
b. to lay out
c. to mark
d. to trace
16. It is the direction in which the thread of a fabric runs.
a. facing
b. grain
c. hem
d. interlining
17. This is how pattern pieces are arranged economically during lay
out.
c. apart
d. close to each other
36
18. It is used in cutting fabrics.

a. rotary cutter
b. ripper
c. a pair of scissors
d. a pair of shears
19. It is the blended fiber manufactured by interlacing threads or
yarn.
a. knitted
b. laminated
c. lapped
d. woven
20. It is the dressmaker’s guide in cutting a fabric.
a. pattern
b. pins
c. shears
d. tailor’s chalk
21. This refers to the finished edge of a fabric.
a. cut edge
b. hem
c. raw edge
d. selvage
22. This is the correct procedure in preparing the materials for
cutting.
a. shrinking, hanging, straightening, pressing
b. shrinking, straightening, hanging, pressing
c. straightening, shrinking, hanging, pressing
d. straightening, hanging, shrinking, pressing
23. It is used to transfer the marks of the pattern to the fabric.
a. ball pen
b. crayon
c. tailor’s chalk
d. tracing wheel
24. It is essential in holding the pattern on the cloth.
a. pins
b. scissors
c. tape measure
d. weight
25. It is the first step to do before laying the pattern over the cloth.
a. hang
b. press
c. soak
d. zigzag
37
Key to Correction
Pre-test
1. b 6. d 11. d 16. a 21. d
2. c 7. d 12. b 17. c 22. d
3. a 8. d 13. b 18. c 23. d
4. d 9. a 14. d 19. b 24. b
5. b 10. b 15. d 20. b 25. b
Post-test
1. c 6. d 11. b 16. b 25. c
2. b 7. a 12. b 17. d 22. b
3. b 8. b 13. d 18. d 21. d
4. b 9. b 14. d 19. d 24. a
5. c 10. d 15. b 20. a 23. d
38
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Module 2 Prepare and Cut Materials for Ladies Casual Apparel
Pretest .......................................................................................................................1
Learning Outcome 1. Preparing Materials/Fabric for Ladies Casual Apparel
Let Us Study ............................................................................................................6

 Common Faults Found in Fabrics ................................................................7
 Handling Fabrics Before Cutting
 Techniques in Preparing the Fabric for Cutting .....................................8
 Dress Garments Trimmings and Accessories ............................................11
How Much Have You Learned? ............................................................................12
Let Us Apply What You Have Learned .................................................................13
Key to Correction ...................................................................................................14
Learning Outcome 2. Laying Out, Pinning and Marking Patterns on the Material
Pretest .....................................................................................................................15
Let Us Study ..........................................................................................................16
 Fabric Folds ...............................................................................................17
 Pattern Layout ............................................................................................18
 Pinning .......................................................................................................19
 Marking ......................................................................................................20
 Marking Tool .......................................................................................21
 How to Transfer Pattern Markings ......................................................23
Learning Outcome 3. Cutting the Materials
Pretest .....................................................................................................................27
Let Us Study ..........................................................................................................28
 Types of Cutting Tools and Their Uses .....................................................29
 Step in Cutting out Fabrics ........................................................................31
Post Test .................................................................................................................35

39
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
The Department of Education wishes to extend thanks and

appreciation to the representatives of the different Secondary Technical-
Vocational Schools who shared their expertise in developing the
Competency-Based Curriculum (CBC) and Competency Learning Matrix
(CLM) on February 25-29, 2008 and Competency-Based Learning
Materials (CBLM) on April 14-19, 2008, refinement and packaging of
CBLM on May 5-10, 2008 and final repackaging on May 23-25, 2008 at
the Development Academy of the Philippines, Tagaytay City and the final
refinement of CBC-CLM-CBLM at the Marikina Hotel, Marikina City on
April 20-25, 2009.
This learning material was developed, enhanced and refined by the

following personnel:
Writeshop on the Development of CBC-CLM
Writers:
 ELORJEN VILLAMAYOR
M. S. Enverga Memorial College of Arts and Trades
 LORENA GENITO
Zamboanga Del Sur School of Arts and Trades
 PURIFICACION RAZON
Don Alejandro Sr. Science and Technology High School
 ROSSANA I. SAGUID
Tanza National High School
 LUZ AGBULUS
Zamboanga del Sur School of Arts and Trades
 JULIE ANNIE M. PESTAÑO

General Mariano Alvarez Technical High School
 ANNABELLE R. DE LEON
Tanza National Trade School
 MARIA M. DEL MUNDO

E. Rodriguez Vocational High School
 PRESCILLA RAYOS
Community Vocational High School
40
Encoder:
 MYRNA COVILLA
Consultant:
 ROSITA CREDO
TVE Consultant
Writeshop on the Finalization, Packaging and Repackaging of CBC-

CLM-CBLM
 ALVA NALDOZA
General Santos City
 ESTRELINA PALALON
Glan School of Arts and Trades
 FRANCISCA BUMANGLAG
Jones Rural School
 JULIE ANNIE M. PESTAÑO

General Mariano Alvarez Technical High School

Writeshop on the Refinement and Enrichment of CBC-CLM-CBLM of

Arts and Trades Specializations
TVE Writers:
Teacher III
Paradahan I, Tanza, Cavite
Region IV-A

Teacher III
Nagtahan, Sampaloc, Manila
NCR
 MARIA VICTORIA M. FERNANDO
Teacher III
41
Pangasinan School of Arts and Trades

Lingayen, Pangasinan
Region I
 NIMFA O. MARMOL
Teacher I
Muntinlupa Business High School
Muntinlupa City
NCR
 DR. MILAGROS M. TORRES

Master Teacher I
Sanchez Mira School of Arts and Trades
Sanchez Mira, Cagayan
Region 02
Academic Writers:
English
 NOVELINE C. TACATA
Teacher III/English Coordinator
Cabarroguis National School of Arts and Trades
Cabarroguis, Quirino
Region 02
 SCHUBERT ANTHONY C. SIALONGO

Master Teacher I
General Leandro Fullon National High School
Hamtic, Antique
Region VI
Science
 DR. CECILIA B. CASTILLO

Head Teacher VI
Siniloan National High School
Siniloan, Laguna
Region IV-A
 TEZA LORRAINE A. MARCOS

Teacher I
AFG Bernardino Memorial Trade School
Marilao, Bulacan
Region III
 EVELYN P. CHAVEZ
Teacher I
Pedro E. Diaz High School
42
U.P. Side Subdivision, Alabang, Muntinlupa

NCR
Encoders:
 MIA LORAINE MANUEL

Fairview, Quezon City
Editors:
 ANA LIZA C. CANILANG

Teacher I
Pedro E. Diaz High School
U.P. Side Subdivision, Alabang, Muntinlupa
NCR
Facilitator:
 AIDA T. GALURA
Vocational Secondary Administrator II
Angeles City National Trade School
Angeles City
Region III
43

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Republic of the Philippines

Unit of Competency: Draft and Cut Pattern for Ladies’ Casual

QUALIFICATION TITLE : GARMENTS NC II

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PREPARE AND CUT MATERIALS

MODULE TITLE : PREPARING AND CUTTING

NOMINAL DURATION : 60 HOURS

WHAT IS THIS MODULE ABOUT?

This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end this module, you should be able to:

WHAT DO YOU ALREADY KNOW?

1. It is the correct procedure in preparing the materials for cutting.

PREPARING MATERIALS/FABRIC FOR LADIES CASUAL APPAREL

WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

WHAT DO YOU ALREADY KNOW?

1. This is NOT a fabric property printed on the label of the cloth.

 Fabric – a cloth material of which a

Fabric is the basic material in making garments. In order to

Common Faults Found in Fabrics

A wide selection of fabrics in various textures and colors is

Fabrics Fiber Content Commercial Names

Microfiber Fabrics Silk  Crepe de Chine

Knitted Fabrics  Natural wool  Double Knit

Special Fabrics  Wool  Boucle

Chemical Fabric Finishes on the Label

Sanforized - a special mechanical process / treatment

Handling Fabrics Before Cutting

The importance of fabric preparation is to preserve the fit of the

Techniques in Preparing the Fabrics for Cutting:

A. Shrinking and soaking the fabric by laundering and drying

Washable fabrics can be pre-shrunk by laundering and drying. Pre –

Procedure in Shrinking Washable Fabric

1. Fold the fabric lengthwise.

B. Straightening the end of fabrics

How to Straighten the Ends of the Fabric

1. Clip the selvage on the shortest edge of the fabric.

C. Stretching the grains of fabrics

How to Stretch the Grain of Fabrics

1. Grasp opposite diagonal corners and pull.

 Dress or Garment Trimmings and Accessories

Trimming details change continually, so you should study

 Trimmings are the ornamental addition to the bare fabrics or a

Common Trimmings Used in Dresses

1. Appliqué – a separate design for petals, leaves or figures which is cut

The following are the accessories used in dresses

1. Bands – strips of fabric, ribbon or bias applied to edges or set into

Fabric is stronger, long lasting and drapes well when

HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?

1. What is the difference between natural and synthetic fiber?

2. Why is preshrinking of fabric important?

3. Explain briefly the techniques in preparing the fabrics before

LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task 1 Preparing the fabric for cutting

Put a check ( √ ) after each item yes no