Documentation Revision 1.

I T's

OR N O T H I N G

By QwermMakes

NodsOrNothing 1
Table of Contents
1 Introduction...........................................................................................................................................2
2 Components..........................................................................................................................................3
3 Bill Of Materials.....................................................................................................................................3
4 Printing Instructions..............................................................................................................................4
4.1 Main...............................................................................................................................................4
4.2 Eye Cup........................................................................................................................................5
4.3 18650 Case...................................................................................................................................6
4.4 IR Illuminator Mount......................................................................................................................6
5 Assembly Instructions...........................................................................................................................7
5.1 Disassembly and Preparation.......................................................................................................7
5.2 Mounting Components..................................................................................................................8
5.3 Putting It All Together.....................................................................................................................9
6 Recommended Prints.........................................................................................................................10
7 Closing Statement...............................................................................................................................11
7.1 A Note To Developers..................................................................................................................11
7.2 Yada Yada Yada..........................................................................................................................12

Nods Or Nothing
1 Introduction
Nods Or Nothing is a replacement housing for the Nerf Modulus Day/Night Scope, a cheap
$25-$30 IR digital camera. The original scope does not have very good mounting options and let’s
face it, your poor ass shouldn’t be LARPing as a tier one operator with a shitty looking toy hanging off
your helmet. The housing is capable of mounting to a traditional J-arm with 3D printed models
available. It also includes the ability to mount an inexpensive fish eye lens in order to increase the field
of view. While the size is still about the same as the original case, the battery has been removed and
replaced with a barrel jack connector allowing the user to use any 5V power source, including a USB
battery pack when using a USB to 5.5mm x 2.1mm barrel jack cable. This project will require basic
soldering skills and an elementary understanding on how to not fuck up when wiring electronics.
The scope has a Day and Night mode. The Day mode works like a normal color camera but is
also able to display a grayscale image of areas lit up by IR light. The Night mode turns on the built in
IR LED’s and adds a green tint to the display. This project allows you to remove or keep the IR LED
board that comes with the scope. I have not been able to find a way to block the light from the LED’s
from washing out the image and since you will be needing to use a stronger IR source when using it
outdoors I recommend removing the IR LED board and just sticking to the “Day Mode” setting which
gives you the ability to see in the night when using an external IR source, while also allowing some
color to be visible from areas lit up by visible light. Or you can just keep the IR board and only use the
“Day Mode” setting.

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2 Components
This initial release comes with the new housing, two
different front caps, one for those who want to retain the
original IR LED's, and one for those who wish to remove
the original IR source, along with a couple different ways to
mount an eye cup. I have also included a few different
variants for an 18650 battery pack that can be used to
power the device. Lastly, I have included a light mount for a
cheap IR illuminator that you can find on Amazon for
around $15.

3 Bill Of Materials

Housing 18650 Case (Optional)

Nerf Modulus Night Scope Internals 1x 18650 Single Battery Charger Shield [1] 1x
M5 10-12mm Socket Head Screw 8x M3 12mm Socket Head Screw 4x
M3 15-20mm Socket Head Screw 2x M4 10mm Socket Head Screw 3x
M3 30-35mm Socket Head Screw 2x M4 Hex Nut 3x
M2 5mm Socket Head Screw 2x M3 Hex Nut 4x
M5 Hex Nut 8x 5.5mm x 2.1mm Panel Mount 1x
M3 Hex Nut 4x Connector
*The picatinny mount needs 1x M5 30mm socket head
1/4”-20 Hex Nut 1x screw and nut.
3mm⌀ 30mm Metal Rod* 1x
5.5mm x 2.1mm Panel Mount 1x
IR Illuminator Mount (Optional)
Connector M5 30mm Socket Head Screw 1x
5.5mm x 2.1mm Power Cable** [1] [2] 1x M5 10mm Socket Head Screw 2x
Fish Eye Cell Phone Lens 1x M5 Hex Nut 3x
(Recommended) WayllShine E6 850nm IR Illuminator 1x
*A cut down 8d nail can be used.
**Varies depending on your set-up.

Clamp-On Eye Cup (Optional)

M3 10mm Socket Head Screw 2x
M3 Hex Nut 2x

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4 Printing Instructions
This housing was designed to limit the amount of support material needed. All prints except
one are 0.20mm layer height and 4 walls. It’s recommend to print with PLA / PLA+ with the exception
of the standard eye cup which could be printed in TPU or any other flexible material.

4.1 Main
Body Left Body Right

Layer Height: 0.2mm Layer Height: 0.2mm

Wall Line Count: 4 Wall Line Count: 4
Infill: 30%+ Infill: 30%+
Support: No Support: No

Front Cap – LED OR Rear Cap OR

Front Cap - No LED Rear Cap - Built In Eye
Cup
Layer Height: 0.16mm
Wall Line Count: 4 Layer Height: 0.2mm
Infill: 30%+ Wall Line Count: 4
Support: Yes Infill: 30%+
Support: Yes

Focus Gear Focus Wheel

Layer Height: 0.2mm Layer Height: 0.2mm

Wall Line Count: 4 Wall Line Count: 4
Infill: 30%+ Infill: 30%+
Support: No Support: No

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 Power Switch Zoom Button (2x)

Layer Height: 0.2mm Layer Height: 0.2mm

Wall Line Count: 4 Wall Line Count: 4
Infill: 30%+ Infill: 30%+
Support: Yes* Support: No

*If using tree supports I

heavily recommend setting
Support Overhang Angle to
80%.

Camera Holder

Layer Height: 0.2mm

Wall Line Count: 4
Infill: 30%+
Support: No

4.2 Eye Cup

Eye Cup Clamp-On Eye Cup (A)
AND Clamp-On Eye
??? Cup (B)

This has been designed Layer Height: 0.2mm

for use with flexible Wall Line Count: 4
filament such as TPU. I Infill: 30%+
have not yet tested this Support: No
model so I cannot
guarantee the fit, nor These can be printed
can I recommend print using PLA if you want
settings. an eye cup but do not
have flexible filament.

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4.3 18650 Case
Cover – X Base – Picatinny OR
Base – Arc
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Wall Line Count: 4 Layer Height: 0.2mm
Infill: 30%+ Wall Line Count: 4
Support: No Infill: 30%+
Support: Yes

Base - Arc Tab

Layer Height: 0.2mm

Wall Line Count: 4
Infill: 30%+
Support: No

4.4 IR Illuminator Mount

Wayllshine E6 850nm
Illuminator Picatinny
Mount

Layer Height: 0.2mm

Wall Line Count: 4
Infill: 30%+
Support: Yes*

*Tree Support
recommended.

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5 Assembly Instructions

5.1 Disassembly and Preparation

Be careful when disassembling the scope as the solder joints are fragile. To fully disassemble it
you will have to cut the two wires going to the battery pack. Cut these two wires as close to the battery
pack as you can in order to keep as much of the wires still connected to the power switch board.

Grab the camera unit and gently but firmly rotate the camera’s lens. The lens is threaded but
held in place with a small amount of glue. Loosen the lens until it can freely rotate.

Next remove the camera from it’s mount by

removing the two small screws from the back of the
camera. Be sure to hang on to these small screws
since you will use them later. Now that the camera is
removed from it’s holder, slide the Focus Gear over
the front of the camera lens with the flat side facing M2 5mm Socket Head Screw
forward, allowing the two arms to go through the two
cut outs in the Focus Gear. Rotate the Focus Gear
180 degrees so the two small holes on the Focus
Gear line up with the holes in camera lens’s arms.
Going from the back of the Focus Gear, use two M2
Figure 1
5mm screws to attach the Focus Gear to the
camera’s lens [Fig. 1]. You may have to use an Allen
wrench. If you are having trouble getting enough room
to screw in the two screws you can remove the lens
from the camera, but be careful not to let dust fall into
the camera’s sensor.

Once you have the Focus Gear attached to

the camera's lens use the two small screws you
removed earlier and attach the Camera Holder to the
camera [Fig. 2]. The flex cable coming from the
camera should be on the side with the smaller cutout.

Figure 2

Next you will have to place the hex nuts in place. If the nuts are not snug in place I recommend
using a small amount of hot glue or super glue to fix them into slots and for nuts that are placed face
down, I recommend using a pick or screw driver and press into the plastic around the pocket in order
to stake them into place.

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 Insert the 8x M5 hex nuts in the front and rear of Body Left and Body Right, 1x 1/4-20 nut into
Body Left, and 4x M3 nuts into the mounting points for the camera and lens. [Fig. 3 & 4]

M5 Hex Nut M5 Hex Nut

M3 Hex Nut

1-4 20 Hex Nut

M5 Hex Nut M5 Hex Nut

Figure 3 Figure 4

5.2 Mounting Components

Start by first mounting the 5.5mm x 2.1mm barrel jack connector into Body Right. Fully mount
the connector using it’s nut and slide some heat shrink over it’s wires. Next solder the connector to the
two wires coming from the power switch board. The less excess wire you have between the connector
and power switch board the easier assembly will be.

Now that the components are wired to the M3 15mm Socket Head Screw

connector start by attaching the screen to Body Right

by using 2x M3 30mm socket head screws. With
Body Right laying flat the screen component should
have the big capacitor facing up and the rounded
corner of the PCB facing down.

Next use 2x M3 15mm socket head screws

and mount the Camera Holder and camera. If you are
keeping the IR light ring make sure that the wires are M3 30mm Socket Head Screw

not stuck under the camera. [Fig. 5]

Figure 5

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 Install the Power Switch onto the power switch
board and slide the board into it’s slot. Don’t worry if it
doesn’t feel fully fixed in place, once fully assembled,
Body Left will help hold everything in place. Now
place the zoom button board in it’s slot with the cut
out corner facing down [Fig. 6]. The board should
slide into it’s slot to the point where you are no longer
able to see the cutout corner. Place the two Zoom
Buttons in their positions. They should both go into
place with a slight click.
Figure 6

Body Right should now be completely

assembled and you can move on to Body Left. All that
needs to be done is to place the Focus Wheel into it’s
slot with the gear facing forward [Fig. 7]. Insert the
3mm dia. 30mm long rod through the Focus Wheel
and into the hole behind it.

Figure 7

5.3 Putting It All Together.

Going back to Body Right, grab the magnifier
from the disassembled scope and place it in it’s cutout
[Fig. 8]. The magnifier has a keyed ridge on one side
that matches a cutout on Body Right. Make sure it’s
aligned the right way and insert it until the forward
edge of the magnifier slides into ridged section of the
screen module.

Figure 8

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Grab your assembled Body Left, making sure the
Focus Wheel does not fall out, and combine Body Left
and Body Right. While holding the assembly together
attach the Rear Cap using 4x M5 10mm socket head
screws [Fig. 9]. Test the switch, buttons, and focus
knob and make sure everything feels smooth. The
focus knob won’t be very smooth until you install the
front cap. If everything feels okay install the Front Cap.
If you are keeping the IR light ring make sure to place
M5 10mm Socket Head Screw
the board into the Front Cap W LED so the two wires
are naturally wanting to go into one of the two cutouts Figure 9
in the Front Cap W LED [Fig. 10]. Next install the
Front Cap by aligning the 3mm metal rod with the matching small hole in the Front Cap and use 4x M5
10mm socket head screws to fix the cap into place [Fig. 11]. I highly recommend the use of a cheap
fish eye lens. Both Front Cap models are threaded to accept the one linked in the BOM. If you are
using that, install it now.

M5 10mm Socket Head Screw

Figure 10 Figure 11

Congrats! You should now have a working night vision device. All you should have to do is plug
in a 5V battery source and turn it on.

6 Recommended Prints
J-Arms:
Ebenezer Mudgett’s AH14 Pro
Mechanicus Engineering’s FNF J-Arm
Mount:
MarkusA380’s Warthog V2
Helmet:
Sparquah’s Polykopf-Ω Bump Helmet

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7 Closing Statement
Thank you for checking out this project! Feel free to reach out to me if you have any issues or
questions. I’ve spent a lot of long nights working on this so I hope y'all enjoy it.

You can find me and my other releases on the following platforms:

Odysee: QwermMakes:6
Printables: QwermMakes
Maker World: QwermMakes
Reddit: u/QwermMakes

If you are having trouble visualizing anything brought up in this manual I suggest looking at the
STEP file. You can download Open Cascade’s CAD Assistant for a simple CAD viewer in order to get
a better idea of the final assembly.

7.1 A Note To Developers

I’ve included the various components from the original scope inside the STEP files. These
models were mainly used for determining clearance needed and some are not fully accurate. I hope
they are useful to anyone who wants to make their own housing, but make sure to double check them
with your own measurements.

I have ran out of steam for this project and already have a big project currently in the works so I
will most likely not be working on this further. For those who wish to improve on this, here is a list of
some possible improvements:

• Find a way to control the brightness of the screen.

• Prevent the stock IR light from shining on the camera.
• Include a stronger, built in IR source.
• Make a helmet mounted battery pack using the scope’s AA battery contacts.
• Create a dovetail mount for mounting dual NODs.
• Make a picatinny mount adapter.
• Make a new housing that fits the internals of four Nerf scopes. $100 quad NODs!

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7.2 Yada Yada Yada

- Thank you to Ebenezer Mudgett and Mechanicus Engineering for the J-Arms. Modeling the
proper cutout for J-Arms would have been difficult without their STEP files.

- Credit to Калашников Орлов for the Arc rail mount.

- Shout out to r/FOSSCAD for helping me come up with a name for this project.

This and all of my projects rely on filament and beer for me to be able to finish them. Want to
throw me a couple bucks so I can get some more? You can tip me on Ko-Fi if you feel so inclined:
https://ko-fi.com/qwermmakes

This manual and all the files included in this release are licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.
Remixing and sharing is encouraged, just don’t sell any of the files (No one deserves to have to pay to
build some shitty NODs). To view a copy of this license, visit:
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0

COME AND TAKE IT

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