Consumer Motivations for Second-hand Apparel Shopping

By
Kathryn Vanderby

A thesis submitted to the Graduate and Post-Doctoral Affairs in partial fulfillment of the
requirements for the degree of

Master of Science
In
Management

Carleton University
Ottawa, Ontario

© 2023
Kathryn Vanderby
Abstract

This study seeks to gain greater insights on consumer motivations for second-

hand apparel consumption. Phenomenological interviews were conducted with a total 39

individuals who belonged to the Generation Z and Millennials cohort. Interviews were

analyzed using an interpretivist approach and hermeneutic analysis to interpret

participants’ stories and experiences for the purpose of understanding perceptions and

motivations. Social Identity Theory, Theory of the Extended Self, and the Theory of

Materiality were utilized to help provide new insights. The findings suggest that

consumers are driven by a variety of motivations identified in seven categories: Critical,

Recreational, Fashion, Economic, Family, Materiality, and Sustainability. Findings also

suggest the demand for sustainable products is increasing. Lastly, consistent with

literature, results exhibited no changes in consumers’ views on shopping second-hand

during the Covid-19 pandemic. To conclude, implications and limitations are discussed

as well as suggestions for future research ideas related to second-hand consumption.

i
Acknowledgements

I wish to express my sincerest gratitude to all those who have helped in the pursuit of
developing and creating this thesis. First and foremost, I would like to acknowledge Dr.
Leighann Neilson, whom, with her expertise, guidance, and support, made this thesis
possible. Thank you for having confidence in me during the times I doubted myself.

I would like to further extend my gratitude to my committee members, Professor Aron

Darmody and Professor Stephen Field. Thank you both for providing unique perspectives
on the topic of second-hand consumption and making me think outside the box.

A huge thanks go to all individuals who participated in my study. I appreciate your

willingness to share personal stories and experiences. I thoroughly enjoyed getting to
know each one of you.

Further, I would also like to give a special thanks to the dream team Katlin Aarma, Liam
Hoselton, and Dunja Palić. Each of you provided support over the past two years,
whether that be through assignments or a friendly zoom call. Although distant due to
Covid, you all have made the master’s program a memorable experience.

Lastly, I am grateful for my family and friends for their never-ending love and constant
source of encouragement. Without you all, this thesis would not exist. Thank you.

Katie

ii
Table of Contents
Abstract ............................................................................................................................... i
Acknowledgements ............................................................................................................. ii
LIST OF TABLES ............................................................................................................ vi
LIST OF FIGURES ......................................................................................................... vii
CHAPTER 1 – INTRODUCTION ................................................................................... 1
1.1 The Rise in Second-hand Consumption ............................................................................. 1
1.2 Research Questions .............................................................................................................. 2
1.3 Thesis Structure ................................................................................................................... 3
CHAPTER 2 - LITERATURE REVIEW .......................................................................... 5
2.1 Conducting the Literature Review ..................................................................................... 5
2.2 The Importance of Sustainable Consumption ................................................................ 14
2.2.1 Effects of Covid-19 ..................................................................................................................... 15
2.2.2 Fast-Fashion Consumerism ......................................................................................................... 17
2.3 Second-Hand Market ......................................................................................................... 19
2.3.1 Vintage vs. Thrift Shopping ........................................................................................................ 20
2.3.2 Upcycling Clothing ..................................................................................................................... 24
2.4 Understanding the Consumer and the Benefits to Marketing ....................................... 25
2.5 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................... 26
CHAPTER 3 – THEORY ................................................................................................. 27
3.1 Social Identity Theory ........................................................................................................ 27
3.2 Extended Self Theory ......................................................................................................... 30
3.3 Materiality........................................................................................................................... 33
3.4 Theory Relationship ........................................................................................................... 36
3.5 Theory Selection ................................................................................................................. 37
3.6 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................... 38
CHAPTER 4 - RESEARCH METHODOLODGY ......................................................... 40
4.1 Goals and Objectives.......................................................................................................... 40
4.2 Epistemology Framework.................................................................................................. 40
4.3 Research Design.................................................................................................................. 43
4.3.1 Motivation for Research.............................................................................................................. 43
4.3.2 Data Collection............................................................................................................................ 44
4.3.3 Phenomenological Interviews ..................................................................................................... 45
4.3.4 Design Suitability ........................................................................................................................ 47
4.4 Sample Selection ................................................................................................................. 48
4.4.1 Millennials and Generation Z...................................................................................................... 48
4.4.2 Demographics ............................................................................................................................. 49
4.4.3 Values Linked to Sustainability .................................................................................................. 52

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 4.5 Recruitment Methods ........................................................................................................ 53
4.5.1 Participant Recruitment ............................................................................................................... 53
4.5.2 Sprott’s Online Participant Pool (SONA) ................................................................................... 54
4.5.3 Direct Participant Contact ........................................................................................................... 54
4.5.4 Referrals ...................................................................................................................................... 55
4.6 Data Analysis and Interpretation ..................................................................................... 61
4.6.1 Step 1 Data Immersion ................................................................................................................ 63
4.6.2 Step 2 Coding .............................................................................................................................. 64
4.6.3 Step 3 Creating Categories .......................................................................................................... 67
4.6.4 Step 4 Identifying Themes .......................................................................................................... 67
4.7 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................... 68
CHAPTER 5 – FINDINGS ............................................................................................. 69
5.1 Consumer Motivations ....................................................................................................... 70
5.1.1 Critical Motives........................................................................................................................... 70
5.1.2 Economic Motives ...................................................................................................................... 74
5.1.3 Fashion Motives .......................................................................................................................... 78
5.1.4 Recreation Motives ..................................................................................................................... 91
5.1.5 Family Influences ........................................................................................................................ 97
5.1.6 Material Motives ....................................................................................................................... 100
5.1.7 Sustainability Motives............................................................................................................... 106
5.2 Retailers’ Perspective ....................................................................................................... 112
5.3 Significance of Sustainability Within Marketing .......................................................... 116
5.4 Covid-19 Factors Affecting Second-hand Consumption .............................................. 118
5.5 Conclusion ......................................................................................................................... 119
CHAPTER 6 – LIMITATIONS AND CONCLUSION ................................................ 121
6.1 Theoretical and Methodological Contributions ............................................................ 121
6.2 Implications....................................................................................................................... 123
6.2.1 Marketing and Merchandising Strategies for Retailers ............................................................. 123
6.3 Benefits of my Second-hand Experience ........................................................................ 125
6.3.1 Personal Reflection ................................................................................................................... 125
6.4 Limitations and Future Research ................................................................................... 126
6.5 Conclusion ......................................................................................................................... 128
REFERENCES ............................................................................................................. 130
APPENDICES ............................................................................................................... 148
Appendix A: Marketing and Sustainability Pathway ......................................................... 148
Appendix B: The Younger Generation is Powering the Rise of Second-hand ................. 149
Appendix C: United Nations 17 Sustainable Development Goals ..................................... 150
Appendix D: Typical Product Lifecycle of a Garment ....................................................... 152
Appendix E: Product Lifecycle of a Second-Hand Garment ............................................. 153
Appendix F: Timeline of Data Collection ............................................................................ 154
Appendix G: Info Graphic on Interview Rounds ................................................................ 155

iv
 Appendix H: Semi Structured Interview Questions ........................................................... 156
Appendix I: Chart of Past and Proposed Interviewees ...................................................... 158
Appendix J: First Advertisement.......................................................................................... 159
Appendix K: Second Advertisement .................................................................................... 160
Appendix L: Second-hand Retailers..................................................................................... 161
Appendix M: Second-hand Data on Driving Growth ......................................................... 162
Appendix N: Re-Interview Questions ................................................................................... 163
Appendix O: Graphic on Findings – Seven Motivations .................................................... 164
Appendix P: Ethics Clearance 2020 ..................................................................................... 164
Appendix Q: Ethics Clearance 2021 ..................................................................................... 167
Appendix R: Ethics Clearance 2022 ..................................................................................... 169
Appendix S: Ethics Clearance 2023 ...................................................................................... 171
GLOSSARY OF TERMS ............................................................................................... 173

v
LIST OF TABLES

Table 1: Raw Data on the Number of Academic Journal Articles per Country on
Marketing and Sustainability ........................................................................................ 10
Table 2: Raw Data on the Number of Academic Literature per Journal and Theses
........................................................................................................................................... 11
Table 3: Raw Data on the Number of Academic Articles per Category.................... 13
Table 4: My Participants ................................................................................................ 56

vi
LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 1: The Rise of Second-hand Consumption Journal Articles Between 1994 -

2021..................................................................................................................................... 8
Figure 2: Map of Countries of Academic Literature on Marketing and
Sustainability ..................................................................................................................... 9
Figure 3: Four Steps of Data Analysis for Qualitative Research ............................... 62
Figure 4: Four Steps of Data Analysis for Qualitative Research Recreated ............. 62
Figure 5: Screen Capture of Coding Structure ............................................................ 66
Figure 6: Josie’s Favorite Find ...................................................................................... 77
Figure 7: Ursula’s Favorite Jacket ................................................................................ 85
Figure 8: Gerald’s Jacket ............................................................................................... 88

vii
CHAPTER 1 – INTRODUCTION

1.1 The Rise in Second-hand Consumption

Marketing, and the business schools within which most marketing academics and

researchers work, have a fraught relationship with sustainability (Kempter et al, 2019).

Marketing can be regarded as encouraging overconsumption and contributing to global

change yet, simultaneously, marketing techniques are used by researchers to promote the

idea of sustainable consumption (Kempter et al, 2019). Sustainable marketing, defined as

the promotion of socially responsible products, services, and practices (Sheth and

Parvatiyar, 2021), is no longer just a ‘trend’ that many industries follow but has shifted

into an integral element for success. Sustainable marketing has become a necessary

response to consumer and market needs. As many consumers are changing their

motivations and becoming increasingly environmentally conscious, brands are being

coerced into transparency about their environmental impact to maintain relevance and

respect with their sustainability-conscious shoppers (Finch, 2020).

The retail industry has been no exception. Since the shame and stigma associated

with second-hand consumption faded and more consumers are focused on sustainable

consumption, second-hand goods have become a preferred alternative for purchase

(Franklin, 2011). As such, this sparked my personal interest into the rise of second-hand

consumption. My love for marketing and sustainability, specifically within the retail

industry, began in my undergraduate degree at Carleton University. Upon completion of a

group project on second-hand consumption, I spent the next two years working alongside

Dr. Leighann Neilson researching consumer motivations on purchasing thrift/vintage

clothing. The quest for knowledge and intellectual challenge spawned my newfound love

1
for research and aided in the discovery of consumer motivations underlying everyday

consumption and purchasing behaviour. As such, the following thesis outlines the

continuation of this research on the rise of second-hand apparel consumption.

The rise of second-hand apparel consumption constitutes a system in competition

with traditional fast-fashion retail outlets, which implies the existence of retail

expectations that traditional channels cannot satisfy (Guiot and Dominique, 2010).

Second-hand shopping satisfies a variety of expectations other than simply economic

benefits such as recreational, fashion, and critical benefits (Ferraro et al, 2016). Second-

hand apparel shopping is rapidly growing and has become a notable segment of the

Canadian retail market projected to double in the next five years to hit $51 billion USD in

sales (Turner, 2020). Identifying and providing insights into consumer behaviour,

motivations, and sustainability aspects of second-hand apparel consumption therefore

constitutes an important area of research for retailers and for consumer researchers.

1.2 Research Questions

The primary goal of this study is to explore the rise of second-hand apparel

consumption specifically focusing on motivations for thrift shopping by Millennial and

Generation Z consumers within Canada. According to the American Psychological

Association, motivations are defined by the impetus that gives purpose or direction to

behavior and operates in humans at a conscious or unconscious level, motives are

frequently divided into (a) physiological, primary, or organic motives, such as hunger,

thirst, and need for sleep; and (b) personal, social, or secondary motives, such as

affiliation, competition, and individual interests and goals (American Psychology

Association, 2023). My research primarily focuses on personal, social, and secondary

2
motives. Specifically, the following research question will be investigated: What

motivations are driving Millennial and Generation Z consumer purchasing behaviour of

second-hand clothing in Canada? By exploring consumer shopping experiences, the study

aims to:

(1) Identify any new or recurring motivations in second-hand shoppers

(2) Discuss the importance of consumer motivations with regards to marketing

(3) Highlight the significance of sustainability within marketing and second-hand

consumption

(4) Examine any changes in motivations due to the Covid-19 pandemic

By addressing these objectives, this research furthers our understanding of consumer

consumption habits and what influences them.

1.3 Thesis Structure

My thesis begins by providing a thorough review of the existing literature on

marketing and sustainability, specifically focusing on the retail industry. Insights into the

Covid-19 pandemic and the fast-fashion market provide a deeper understanding of the

external environment. Further, research on the second-hand market is reviewed focusing

on thrifted, vintage, and upcycled clothing. I then provide an overview on the importance

of understanding consumer motivations with regards to marketing. Next, I outline three

theories: Social Identity Theory, the Theory of the Extended Self and the Theory of

Materiality. These are used to help explain the underlying causes and influences observed

in my analysis. Examination and exploration of the theory relationships are then

discussed. Further, I discuss the methodology of my research. This section describes my

overarching strategy for conducting research. Specifically, I employ a phenomenological,

3
qualitative research design, within which hermeneutic phenomenology is used to develop

a greater understanding of individual experiences. The overarching goals and objectives

are reviewed, and the epistemological framework is discussed. I provide an overview of

the research design including suitability of the method selected as well as discussion on

the specific age cohorts chosen and the methods used to recruit participants. Next, the

data analysis and interpretation are discussed within which a standard qualitative analysis

model was utilized. Preliminarily analysis and data immersion, coding, creation of

categories, and themes are outlined. The findings of the analysis are then discussed in

detail. Categorized and contrasted data are presented in distinct motivational themes

including Critical, Economic, Fashion, Recreational, Family, Materials, and

Sustainability. I provide details of each motivational theme in relation to the theories

under assessment. Further, I discuss the retailer’s perspective identifying their

motivations and their perceptions of consumers. I then highlight the importance of

sustainability within marketing research and practice with a focus on second-hand

consumption and describe any changes in motivations due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

Following the analysis, I conclude with a discussion of the limitations of my research,

suggestions for future research, and the contributions of my research.

4
CHAPTER 2 - LITERATURE REVIEW

This chapter provides a foundational understanding of the existing research on

marketing and sustainability, specifically focusing on the retail industry. To begin, this

chapter outlines how and why the literature review was conducted. Then I give details on

sustainable consumption focusing on the retail industry. A summary of second-hand

clothing consumption and marketing provides insights into what is currently known about

vintage and thrift shopping, and upcycling which will be used to analyze and interpret the

data in later chapters. Lastly, an overview of the importance of understanding consumer

motivations is given with regards to marketing.

2.1 Conducting the Literature Review

The literature review was conducted to critically evaluate each source relevant to

the topic of Marketing and Sustainability, specifically focusing on the retail clothing

industry (Appendix A outlines examples of various industries relevant to marketing and

sustainability while highlighting the path chosen for this study). Over the years,

academics have referred to sustainable clothing consumption by a variety of terms

including second-hand consumption (Ferrero et al, 2016), sustainable fashion (Gurova &

Morozova. 2018), ethical clothing (Reimers et al, 2016), ethical consumption

(Manchiraju & Sadachar, 2014), fashion with a conscience (Joergens, 2006), eco-fashion

(Niinimäki, 2010), and socially responsible consumption (Webb et al, 2008). For the

purpose of this study, I will be utilizing the term second-hand consumption.

Second-hand consumption can generally be defined as any purchase of clothing

which has been used before and further broken down into vintage clothing: has been

adopted by the fashion world where it is used to define a rare and authentic piece that

5
represents the style of a particular courier or era which dates back between the 1920s and

1980s (Gerval, 2008; Yan et al, 2015), and thrifted clothing: clothing purchased in

second-hand settings such as thrift or second-hand shops, estate sales, garage sales, flea

markets, auctions etc. (Christiansen and Snepenger, 2005). Vintage clothing differs from

thrift clothing as it involves the recognition of a special type or model and knowing and

appreciating such specifics as year or period when produced or worn (DeLong et al,

2005). On the other hand, thrift is a form of shopping which does not rely on historical

significance or economic value. I will be focusing solely on thrift clothing shopping by

Millennials (people born between 1981-1996) and Generation Z (people born between

1997-2015). As seen in Appendix B, these cohorts are driving the growth of second-hand

consumption, purchasing at a rate 2.5 times faster than other generations (Global Data

Thred Up, 2021). With this shift in consumption behaviour, expressed most strongly by

Millennials and Generation Z, consumers are gaining greater influence over apparel

brands and developing significant power to improve production systems through their

purchasing decisions (Pereira et al. 2021; D’Adamo et al, 2022). Businesses are

improving their production systems by incorporating elements of sustainability in order

to operate efficiently while attracting their target consumer. Many are fostering new

sustainable strategies through their corporate social responsibility initiatives, for example

businesses are reducing their carbon footprints, improving labour policies, and

participating in fairtrade (Webb et al, 2008).

My research examines prior research conducted on second-hand consumption

dating back to the 1990s. Additionally, papers on marketing and sustainability, early

adulthood, and product lifecycle were investigated to develop a deeper understanding of

6
consumers and their motivations. The following keywords were used to seek articles

relevant to my research topic: Second-hand, Thrift, Vintage, Shopping, Second-hand,

Consumption, Sustainability, and Marketing. Academic articles were gathered using the

following databases: Business Source Complete, Omni, Mergent, Science Direct etc. In

addition, the theses and dissertations databases were utilized. Articles were collected

from various journals including but not limited to: Journal of Business Research, Journal

of Marketing, Journal of Marketing Management, Journal of Product and Brand

Management, Journal of Cleaner Production, Journal of Consumer Marketing, Journal

of Fashion Marketing, Fashion Practice, Fashion Theory, etc. These articles were sought

out before, during, and after interviewing took place.

Beginning in 1994, research on second-hand consumption has seen a steady

increase, including research literature from inside and outside the management discipline,

as Figure 1 below indicates. Analysis started from the year 1994 for personal preference,

this gave a total of 27 years of collected data.

7
 Second-hand Consumption Journal Articles 1994-2021
14
Number of Articles
12

10

0
1994 1997 2001 2003 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021

Year of Publication

Figure 1: The Rise of Second-hand Consumption Journal Articles Between 1994 -

2021
*Personally collected journal articles on Marketing and Sustainability in a fashion context from data
search on Omni and Business Source Complete

Although a body of research exists, the literature lacks a thorough explanation of

what drives and motivates people to purchase second-hand clothing products specifically

within the generational cohorts of Millennial and Generation Z.

The great importance of sustainability stems from numerous problems of today’s

globalized world. Many of these problems are the consequences of today’s common way

of life which is expressed with buying fast-fashion and purchasing more than one can use

(Bourusiak et al, 2020; Zhou et al, 2013). Evident in a variety of academic literature,

countries around the world are investing their attention in Marketing and Sustainability.

Please see Figure 2 below.

8
 Figure 2: Map of Countries of Academic Literature on Marketing and
Sustainability
*Countries highlighted in blue include personally collected data of countries of origin of academic
literature on marketing and sustainability specifically within a retail context

An exploration of peer-reviewed journal articles showcases the countries in which

literature has been published (see Table 1), the spread across different journals (see Table

2), and the range of categories across the literature (see Table 3).

9
Table 1: Raw Data on the Number of Academic Journal Articles per Country on
Marketing and Sustainability

Countries Number of Journal

Articles on M&S
USA 27
United Kingdom 20
Canada 5
New Zealand 5
Finland 4
Australia 3
France 3
Germany 3
India 3
China 2
Denmark 2
Hong Kong 2
Korea 2
Malaysia 2
Sweden 2
Switzerland 2
Brazil 1
Czech Republic 1
Italy 1
Netherlands 1
Portugal 1
Spain 1
Turkey 1
Grand Total 94

10
Table 2: Raw Data on the Number of Academic Literature per Journal and Theses

Journals / Theses Number of Articles

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management 11
Journal of Cleaner Production 6
International Journal of Consumer Studies 5
Journal of Consumer Behaviour 4
Fashion Theory 3
Journal of Business Research 3
Journal of Consumer Culture 3
Journal of Marketing 3
Journal of Sustainability 3
International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management 2
Journal of Macromarketing 2
Journal of Marketing Management 2
Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services 2
Advances in Consumer Research 1
AMA Conference Proceedings 1
American Psychology Association Conference Proceedings 1
Business History 1
Centre for Circular Design 1
Environmental Health 1
European Journal of Marketing 1
European Management Journal 1
Fashion Design for the Curious: Why Study Fashion Design 1
Fashion Practice 1
International Conference on Design Research 1
International Journal of Interdisciplinary and
Multidisciplinary Studies 1
International Journal of Sociology and Social Policy 1
Journal of Applied Social Psychology 1
Journal of Business Ethics 1
Journal of Consumer Marketing 1
Journal of Consumer Research 1
Journal of Marketing Communications 1
Journal of Marketing Research 1
Journal of Product & Brand Management 1
Journal of Retailing 1
Journal of the Association for Consumer Research 1
Mistra Future Fashion 1
PLATE Lifetimes and the Environment 1

11
Psychology & Marketing 1
Qualitative Market Research: An International Journal 1
Research Journal of Textile and Apparel 1
Sustainability 1
Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy 1
The International Review of Retail, Distribution and
Consumer Research 1
The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion
Industry 1
The Journal of Sustainable Product Design 1
THESIS -AUT University 1
THESIS - Dominican University of California 1
THESIS - Glasgow Caledonian University 1
THESIS - India 1
THESIS - Jönköping 1
THESIS - Purdue University 1
THESIS - Queen Margaret University 1
THESIS - University of Denver 1
THESIS - University of Essex 1
THESIS - University of Southampton 1
THESIS - Wilfrid Laurier University 1
THESIS -Conference paper 1
Young Consumers 1
Grand Total 94

12
Table 3: Raw Data on the Number of Academic Articles per Category

Categories Number of Articles

per Category
Clothing Interest and Generations
(X,Y,Z) 4
Ethical Fashion 11
Fashion and Sustainability 29
Marketing and Gender 1
Marketing and Sustainability 8
Nostalgia 4
Second-hand Shopping 18
Socially Responsible Consumption 3
Sustainable design 3
Sustainable Supply Chain 1
Thrift Shopping 3
Need/Desire for Uniqueness in Clothing 4
Vintage Shopping 5
Grand Total 94

13
2.2 The Importance of Sustainable Consumption

Sustainability (and sustainable consumption) is an extraordinarily contested

concept that is subject to multiple interpretations and meanings (Schaefer & Crane,

2005). According to the United Nations, sustainable consumption and production is about

doing more and better with less (UN Sustainable Development Goals, 2022). It is also

about decoupling economic growth from environmental degradation, increasing resource

efficiency, and promoting sustainable lifestyles (UN Sustainable Development Goals,

2022). Further, sustainability can broadly be defined in terms of environmental stasis and

systematic maintenance, as in ensuring that our actions do not impact the Earth or

biosphere in such a way that its long-term viability is threatened, including efforts that

can be taken to improve or reverse damage (Schaefer & Crane, 2005).

As part of their sustainability initiatives United Nations released 17 main

sustainable development goals which can be seen in Appendix C. These sustainable

development goals, also known as the Global Goals, are a set of 17 interconnected

objectives aimed at promoting sustainable development across economic, social, and

environmental dimensions (UN Sustainable Development Goals, 2022). My research

focuses on goal 12 and goal 13.

Sustainability has become an increasingly important topic due to numerous

environmental problems of today’s globalized world. Climate changes and environment

pollution have become the greatest threats and challenges for humankind (Chua et al,

2016). Canada has about 0.5% of the world's population but contributes about 2% of the

total global greenhouse gas emissions (Statistics Canada, 2022). This puts Canadians

among the highest per capita emitters, as a result of the size of the country, the low

14
density of the population, the high energy demands imposed by the climate, our resource-

based economy, and the volume of goods we export (Statistics Canada, 2022).

According to Zhou et al. many of the world’s climate change problems are the

consequences of today’s lifestyles which can be characterized as buying more than one

can use (Zhou et al, 2013). However, consumers are becoming more aware of their

carbon footprints, switching old consumption habits towards practicing sustainable

living. Many Canadians are making the decision to adopt behaviours aimed at reducing,

reusing, and recycling. Consumers are looking for brands and their manufacturers to be

doing more with respect to sustainability and environmental issues (Tarry, 2021). In the

context of sustainability, economic well-being requires countries, their organizations, and

individuals to use resources efficiently and responsibly to ensure long-term

environmental success. Valor and Carrero (2013) believe responsible consumption can be

perceived as a personal initiative that focuses on living in a more meaningful way, which

can be interpreted as a shift in focus from buying products to experiencing benefits

coming from products. Sustainable consumption has been increasing and many

individuals have become aware of their impact on the environment as well as the effect it

has societally.

2.2.1 Effects of Covid-19

Covid-19 is an infectious disease caused by the SARS-CoV-2 virus (World

Health Organization, 2022). Most people infected with the virus will experience

moderate to severe respiratory illnesses. The virus was first identified from an outbreak in

Wuhan, China in December 2019 (World Health Organization, 2022). Attempts to

contain the virus failed, allowing it to rapidly spread worldwide. The World Health

15
Organization declared the outbreak a public health emergency of international concern on

30 January 2020 and a pandemic on 11 March 2020. As of 3 October 2022, the pandemic

had resulted in more than 618 million cases and caused 6.54 million confirmed deaths,

making it one of the deadliest viruses in history (World Health Organization, 2022). Due

to the pandemic, government interventions were required throughout Canada.

Restrictions encompassing stay-at-home orders, curfews, quarantines, cordons sanitaires

and similar societal restrictions were implemented (World Health Organization, 2022).

With consumers obeying government orders to stay home, the pandemic had an

immediate impact on fashion’s global production networks (Uddin 2020; Brydges et al

2020). China, India, and Bangladesh are examples of countries with a strong textile

industry presence, where workers remained without work after employers closed the

doors of production facilities (Leal Filho et al, 2022). Consumers substantially put their

spending on fashion on hold during the Covid-19 lock-downs, quickly identifying

clothes, shoes, and fashion accessories as a ‘non-essential’ category of consumer goods

(Arora et al, 2020). Many consumers in Canada and around the world took the

opportunity, during the pandemic, to reassess their values and attitudes towards

consumption (Tarry, 2021). The pandemic has resulted in significant changes in

consumer preferences, shopping motivations and shopping behaviours. Many consumers

switched to e-commerce and upcycling as a means to purchase and/or create apparel

items. Online shopping increased, leaving many brick-and-mortar retailers struggling for

survival (Leal Filho et al, 2022). In addition, during the pandemic, consumers were

reported to declutter, upcycle, or make clothes more frequently than before (Vladimirova

et al, 2022). Sustainability became an increasingly popular and valued practice.

16
 The Covid-19 pandemic continues to offer countries an opportunity to build

recovery plans that will reverse current trends and change consumption and production

patterns towards a more sustainable future (UN Sustainable Development Goals, 2022).

As a consequence of Covid-19, retailers and fashion brands are looking to reinvent

themselves by considering strategies that are more sustainably driven and agile to attract

today’s sustainability-minded consumer. The pandemic has induced an unexpected shift

in behaviour making it vital to incorporate in my research. It is important to understand

how the retail industry is transforming due to the pandemic and how consumers are

changing their consumption habits.

2.2.2 Fast-Fashion Consumerism

Within recent years, the fashion industry has seen retailers compete on the basis

of speed to market with their ability to rapidly translate fashion trends revealed by

fashion shows and runways into low-cost products available locally (Bhradwaj &

Fairhurst, 2010). Fast-fashion has taken the world by storm and caused an uproar within

sustainability conscious consumer circles. Fast-fashion involves the rapid turnover of

new clothing collections, which arrive at a faster pace than in the past (even several times

during a season) (Rulikova, 2020). According to Rulikova (2020), this trend can be

attributed to various phenomena including profit-driven incentives of the fashion

industry; late modern consumer anxiety about what to wear in the absence of fashion

authorities (Miller, 2004; Woodward, 2007); and endless attempts to (re)construct one’s

identity through dress (Bauman, 2007). The fast-fashion manufacturing process, as well

as short-lived styles, have created a throwaway trend that results in a negative

environmental consequence (Bourusiak et al, 2020).

17
 Clothing production is the third biggest manufacturing activity in the world,

making a sizable negative contribution to climate change (UN Environment Programme,

2022). Research conducted by McKinsey & Co. shows that the clothing industry was

responsible for some 2.1 billion metric tons of greenhouse-gas emissions in 2018, about 4

percent of the global total (Berg et al, 2020). The fast-fashion industry emits the same

amount of greenhouse gases per year as the entire economies of France, Germany, and

the United Kingdom combined (Berg et al, 2020). Due to the ample amount of clothing

produced, fast-fashion retailers can sell their product inexpensively making it widely

available to many. Research suggests the average Canadian person owns 148 pieces of

clothing while wearing those pieces only seven times before discarding them (Capsule

Wardrobe Data, 2020). As a result, fast-fashion encourages consumers to dispose of

untrendy clothing more frequently, which puts natural resources at risk (Elrod, 2017;

Yang et al, 2017).

The fast-fashion industry uses a vast amount of natural resources including water,

oil, and land throughout the lifecycle of a garment from production of fibers,

manufacturing, distribution, consumer use, and ultimate disposal. The fast-fashion

industry has immense impacts on the planet as it is one of the largest water polluters and

greenhouse gas emitters (Berg et al, 2020), and produces 92 million tons per year of

textile waste, which primarily ends up in landfills (Mowery, 2021). Please See Appendix

D for an overview of the typical product lifecycle of garment. In addition to

environmental issues, fast-fashion sparks ethical concerns and shows little signs of

change. The harmful effects of the fast-fashion industry have become increasingly

important as consumers are beginning to make conscious decisions to invest in a

18
sustainable wardrobe. Second-hand consumption offers a positive alternative to fast-

fashion that many are beginning to seek. Consumers are purchasing clothing from

responsible brands, speaking up for social responsibility and accountability, and

purchasing clothing through second-hand stores in order to advocate for the environment.

Understanding the fast-fashion industry is vital to my research as it highlights the

overconsumption taking place in society and the steps consumers are taking to make a

positive change.

2.3 Second-Hand Market

As a response to the increasing threats to the environment consumers have

developed a higher appreciation of the value of second-hand clothes (Herjanto et al,

2016). Consumer demands are forcing the fashion industry to find more ways to be

environmentally friendly. According to Ferraro et al (2016), second-hand consumption

has evolved over three distinct periods: (1) emergence and expansion during the

eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, (2) decline and stigmatization in the twentieth

century, and (3) de-stigmatization and renewed popularity since the 2000s (Ferraro et al,

2016; Weinstein, 2014).

Historically, second-hand consumption was widely popular due to consumers’

needs and social aspiration. Second-hand products were initially sought out exclusively

by the poor and those desperate to achieve social status (Weinstein, 2014). This changed

in the twentieth century. After the end of the industrial revolution, second-hand

consumption began to decline. The twentieth century saw a new form of social agency

and independence promoted by mass marketing and advertising campaigns. Fast-fashion

was on the rise during this era which offered consumers a variety of cheap products,

19
allowing the working-class consumer to buy new items of greater quality at affordable

prices (Weinstein, 2014).

The 2000s was a period of radical change and revival for second-hand

consumption. Consumers began to alter their behaviour after the 2008 Global Financial

Crisis, increase their interest in sustainability, and turn to second-hand consumption as a

fashionable alternative to conventional shopping methods. Today, second-hand

consumption is no longer seen as low-level fashion, instead it has become a trend many

have adopted (Herjanto et al, 2016). Consumers are more willing to purchase second-

hand items including vintage (Gerval, 2008) and thrifted (Bardhi, 2003) apparel products,

and have shown increased interest in prolonging the lifecycle of apparel items

(O’Sullivan, 2016). Consumers are becoming increasingly interested in a multitude of

ways to prolong the lifecycle of a garment such as resale, upcycling, donation, and hand-

me downs. Please see Appendix E for the product lifecycle of a second-hand garment.

2.3.1 Vintage vs. Thrift Shopping

The term ‘vintage’ has been adopted by the fashion world where it is used to

define a rare and authentic piece that represents the style of a particular couturier or era

(Gerval, 2008). Vintage suggests clothes dating from the 1920s to the 1980s (Gerval,

2008). On the other hand, ‘thrift’ can be broadly defined as consumers shopping for

clothing from several alternative retail formats such as estate sales, garage sales, yard

sales, flea markets, swap meets, and thrift stores (Bardhi, 2003; Williams, 2003).

‘Thrifting’ is a form of shopping which appeals to many consumers from a wide range of

household income levels. Although a common stereotype, thrift shopping does not

necessarily mean that consumers have limited economic resources (Bardhi, 2003;

20
Williams, 2003). Both vintage and thrift clothing shopping are part of second-hand

consumption which categorizes any piece of clothing which has been used before,

notwithstanding the age of the clothes (Cervellon et al, 2012).

Oddly enough, the reuse of old and discarded objects from the past has received

only minor attention from researchers. During the 2000s revitalization and onward,

second-hand consumption has received more attention and interest from researchers and

consumers, although, due to the recent onset of the Covid-19 pandemic, little research has

been conducted on the pandemic’s impact within the retail industry. This presents a

unique opportunity for my research as the pandemic radically changed consumers’

shopping motivations, sparking new interest in sustainable consumption. Further, the

economic and financial impacts of the pandemic have changed the outlook on retail

spending. The pandemic offers significant insights into shifts in consumer behaviour as

well as the long-term effects this will have on retailers.

My research investigates and draws insights from 94 articles (see table 2 and 3),

in this section I discuss in detail the studies that have the most direct influence on my

research topic. As such, there are many motivations that influence consumers to shop in

vintage and thrift stores. Notable influences discussed in prior research include social

identity, cost of clothing, and environmental benefits (Hobbs, 2016). A quantitative

study, conducted by Robyn Hobbs, examined three aspects that influence consumption

including the socio-demographic profile of second-hand shoppers, preferred shopping

location, and purchase decision making processes. Hobbs surveyed a total of 157

individuals, 40.1% of respondents were people aged 16-30 years (Millennials). The study

employed the EBM model developed by Engel, Blackwood, and Minard (Teo and

21
Young, 2003) to analyze the data. This model filters through the stages of the consumer

decision making process such as need recognition, information search, alterative

evaluation, purchase, and after-purchase. The study concluded that participants were

more likely to spend time and money while shopping in-store rather than online,

participants were more likely to shop at well-known second-hand stores like Value

Village, and environmentally conscious shoppers favored stores they perceived as being a

sustainable establishment and are knowledgeable of apparel origin (Hobbs, 2016).

Shoppers self-identified as part of a community, which strengthened their social identity.

Shoppers revealed that second-hand consumption enabled them to build a sense of

community around the brand of their apparel items and social desires to shop at stores

that were perceived as niche.

With the continuous increase in sustainable consumption and concern for the

environment, it is becoming increasingly important to understand consumers’ shopping

motivations for purchasing second-hand products. In their study, Guiot and Roux present

a variety of characteristics of second-hand shopping. Through qualitative and quantitative

studies carried out in France (n = 708 subjects), the authors proposed an eight-factor scale

to measure second-hand shopping motivations to purchase second-hand products (Guiot

and Roux, 2010). Their results revealed four main consumer segments, based on

motivation: polymorphous enthusiasts, thrifty critics, nostalgic hedonists, and regular

specialist shoppers (Guiot & Roux, 2010). Polymorphous enthusiasts are characterized by

varied use of most types of second-hand products and often frequent second-hand

channels. They reveal the highest scores for the various motivations and are characterized

by a strong propensity to browse and recycle and exhibit high levels of frugality and the

22
need to be unique. Thrifty critics score high on the economic and critical dimensions, and

low on the recreational dimensions. They are characterized by their strong propensity to

frugality. Nostalgic hedonists indicate low scores on the economic and critical

motivations, but score higher on recreational motivations, especially the nostalgic

dimension. Specialist shoppers selectively use second-hand outlets for certain types of

products. This group scores low on all motivations and most of the determinants of

motivations to buy second-hand products (Guiot and Roux, 2010). Research results

present retailers with a segmentation tool to identify different shopper profiles, creating a

potential bridge to effective marketing. However, their research does not address links

between the concept of second-hand shopping motivations and emerging phenomena

such as responsible consumption, dissatisfaction with the retail industry, and consumer

resistance. Further, their research lacks a focus on Millennials and Generation Z, the

cohorts driving growth. As such, my research will work to fill this gap in literature.

Ferraro and colleagues adopt a theory building approach, expanding on Guiot’s

and Roux’s (2010) discussion of motivations for second-hand shopping. Specifically,

their research includes ‘fashion’ as an additional motivation. A sample of Australian

second-hand shoppers completed a ten-minute online survey to assist researchers to

understand current consumption drivers for second-hand clothing. Ferraro and colleagues

identify four segments of the second-hand consumer clothing market based on

motivations including critical, economic, recreation, and fashion (Ferraro et al, 2016). As

the authors explain, critical motives allow consumers to disassociate from the

mainstream market for moral or ethical reasons. Economic motives largely stem from

price sensitivity or price consciousness and include the gratifying role of price, the search

23
for a fair price and bargain hunting. Recreation motives include visual stimulation and

excitement due to the plethora of goods, treasure hunting, authenticity of the products

being purchased, social interaction, and nostalgic pleasure. Lastly, fashion motives are

related to the need for authenticity and originality, but specifically concern attempts to

follow a specific fashion trend, create a personal and unique fashion style, or avoid

mainstream fashion (Ferraro et al, 2016). Primarily, their research focused on consumer

motivation drawing attention to fashionability as a motive which had previously been

excluded in literature. Research found that fashion as a motive was important to three

different segments of participants (fashion hedonist, infrequent fashionistas, treasure

hunting influencers), highlighting the importance of expression of identity. Further,

findings suggest that the role of fashion as a motivation highlights broader changes

occurring in consumer behaviour, specifically within the domain of second-hand

consumption, which is evidenced by the shift away from stigmatization toward renewed

popularity.

2.3.2 Upcycling Clothing

Adopting sustainable consumption practices has required consumers to buy less,

use products longer and produce less waste (Shim et al, 2018). As result, many have

taken to upcycling as a means to prolong the life of an object. Steven O’Sullivan (2016)

describes upcycling as reusing disregarded objects or materials in such a way as to create

an object of higher quality or value than the original. Consumers are increasingly

upcycling clothing items in order to make them new again (Paras & Curteza, 2018).

There are many ways to upcycle clothing, from cutting and sewing, darning, and

patching, to dying. These techniques allow consumers to make old clothing items into

24
new pieces, create unique pieces, and repair pieces for reuse. Upcycling presents endless

possibilities for individuals to transform materials into something new while practicing

sustainable behaviours (O’Sullivan, 2016). Shim et al (2018) identify two main purposes

of upcycling, the first being to reduce waste, as upcycling extends the life cycle of

products, and the second being to implement principles of sustainable design. Upcycling

requires creative reuse by transforming old materials or products into changed materials

of perceived greater quality, such as artistic value or environmental value (Shim et al,

2018). Upcycling can also be an effective way of expressing an individual’s personality,

without unnecessary spending, and satisfy the desire to be creative while using novel

materials. Upcycling reduces the need for raw materials and conserves natural materials

eliminating the need to purchase a new product (Ali et al, 2013; Bhatt, 2019). In addition,

upcycling redirects garments from landfills and limits pollution (Bhatt, 2019).

Increasingly, upcycling has become a steppingstone to a more sustainable consumer

identity.

2.4 Understanding the Consumer and the Benefits to Marketing

There are many reasons why understanding consumers’ second-hand shopping

motivations and the shift in consumer behaviour should be of interest to marketers. One

reason is reflected by Bauhain-Roux and Guiot (2011): second-hand shopping remains

relatively unstudied, even as it raises crucial issues, including the repeated circulation of

used objects among consumers, which prolongs the objects’ useful life while reducing

revenue for conventional retailers (Bauhain-Roux & Guiot, 2001). Secondly, marketers

should be cognizant that the consumption mindset that conventional marketing

encourages is a key driver of negative environmental impacts, thus garnering more

25
negative consumer perceptions of the firm (Csikszentmihalyi 2000; Peattie & Peattie

2009). Lastly, research suggests firms that consider new models of business and

encourage sustainable consumption can potentially earn greater long-term profits (Kotler,

2011). Through learning what drives and motivates consumers’ purchase intentions,

marketers can expand their market for the long-term, mutual benefit of both the firm and

consumers.

2.5 Conclusion

Sustainability has come to the forefront of attention as environmental concerns

continue to grow. The Covid-19 pandemic has induced an unexpected shift in behaviour

causing consumers to think more sustainability about their consumption. Previously, fast-

fashion was a popular form of clothing consumption offering consumers trendy clothing

for a good price. This rapidly produced form of fashion amplifies the negative

contribution to climate change putting into question consumer clothing purchases.

Subsequently, second-hand consumption has offered a sustainable alternative to

purchasing fast-fast fashion. Consumers are beginning to purchase clothing through

second-hand retailers, speak up for social responsibility and accountability in clothing

brands, and upcycle old materials to expand the garments lifecycle. While past research

has considered a variety of second-hand consumption motivations, shifts in the market

and among the consumer population have evolved. Thus, it is critically important to have

an updated understanding of consumers motivations to shop at second-hand clothing

stores.

26
CHAPTER 3 – THEORY

My research has been conducted through the lens of the following theories: Social

Identity Theory, the Theory of the Extended Self, and the Theory of Materiality. This

chapter gives an overview of each theory, their influence on second-hand consumption,

why each theory was chosen and explores their relationship with each other.

3.1 Social Identity Theory

Developed by Henri Tajfel, Social Identity Theory aims to connect cognitive

processes and behavioural motivations (Tajfel, 1978). Social Identity Theory focuses on

the interplay between personal and social identities. More specifically, social identities

are aspects of the self-concept deriving from social categories, roles, or groups to which

an individual perceives themself as belonging (Tajfel 1978). People tend to classify

themselves and others into various social categories such as organizational membership,

religious affiliation, gender, and age cohort (Tajfel, 1978; Ashforth, & Mael, 1989). A

social category or group is a set of individuals who hold a common social identification

or view themselves as members of the same social category (Stets, & Burke, 2000).

Groups give us a sense of social identity and thus a sense of belonging to the social

world. Tajfel proposed that stereotyping (i.e., putting people into groups and categories)

is based on a normal cognitive process: the tendency to group things together (Tajfel,

1978; McLeod, 2019). In doing so we tend to exaggerate the differences between and

similarities within groups. Through a social comparison process, persons who are similar

to the self are categorized with the self and are labeled the in-group; persons who differ

from the self are categorized as the out-group (Tajfel, 1978; Stets, & Burke, 2000).

27
 Much of Social Identity Theory deals with intergroup relations that is, how people

come to see themselves as members of one group/category (the in-group) in comparison

with another (the out-group). In considering social groups among high school students,

for example, an athlete should be more influenced by other athletes, whereas drama club

students should be more influenced by other drama club students (Tajfel & Turner,

1986). Tajfel and Turner (1979) proposed that there are three mental processes involved

in evaluating others as in-group and out-group members. These cognitive components, in

sequence, include social categorization, social identification, and social comparison.

Social categorization is the process by which we organize individuals into social groups

to understand our social world. Social identification is the process of identifying as a

group member. Socially identifying with a group leads individuals to behave in the way

that they believe members of that group should behave. Social comparison is the process

by which people compare their group with other groups in terms of prestige and social

standing (Tajfel, 1978; Tajfel & Turner, 1986).

According to Feinberg and colleagues (1992), clothing is a significant symbol

used by individuals in social identity processes because: i) clothing is used in daily

activity, ii) clothes constitute a frequent public display and iii) clothing choice is an easily

manipulatable symbol. Individuals are believed to use clothing as a means to define and

communicate their social identities to others. These identities are knowledge structures

containing traits, attitudes, behaviours, brands, and goals relevant to that social category

(Coleman et al, 2013). However, even within a social group, some individuals possess a

higher need for uniqueness, leading them to differentiate by choosing less popular

options available to the group (Chan et al, 2012). Faced with an ever-increasing selection

28
of clothing and products, individuals, especially adolescents seem to choose their outfits

based on conformity (in-group) and/or differentiation behaviours (out-group) (Badaoui et

al, 2018; Chan et al, 2012; Tajfel, 1978).

Social identity is closely linked to clothing choices and provides new avenues to

explore the growth in second-hand consumption. Social influence and the need to be

unique is a large component of consumers’ motivations when shopping with regard to

what items to purchase (Hobbs, 2016). Social Identity Theory will be used throughout my

research as a lens through which the intentions behind purchasing second-hand clothing

will be analyzed. Consumers, specifically those in the generational cohorts of Millennials

and Generation Z, may want to display particular social identities in a desire to conform

to peer groups and social trends (Badaoui et al, 2018). According to Smith (2011), this

process begins at an early age, where adolescent years are filled with many potential

stressors such as peer pressures, physiological and emotional changes associated with

puberty, an increase in one’s autonomy, the need for close peer relationships, and the

development of one’s identity. As children progress to the adolescent years of

development they begin to seek a greater sense of autonomy from parents and other

adults, hence, their desire to conform to their peers (Fan et al, 2022).

Specifically, the Millennial and Generation Z cohort have been cultivated by the

dramatic developments in technology and innovation (Fan et al, 2022). Growing up in the

Information Age, both Millennials and Generation Z are constantly connected with the

Internet across almost every aspect of their daily life, creating and pressuring them to

develop a well-designed narrative of identity through pictures, posts, likes and follows

(Jacobson and Barnes, 2017). Focusing specifically on consumers who purchase second-

29
hand products, consumers in these groups might want to display social identities such as

eco-consumer, sustainable consumer, style-conscious consumer, non-conforming

consumer, unique consumer, etc. Social Identity Theory assists in the exploration of

consumer motivations by helping us to understand why consumers may purchase second-

hand clothing to fit into a social category (in-group) or why consumers purchase second-

hand products be different (out-group) or unique (standing out within in-group). By

studying consumer motivations in relation to social identity, I can develop a better

understanding of how identity motives influence consumer purchase intentions.

3.2 Extended Self Theory

Developed by Russell Belk, the Theory of the Extended Self investigates how and

to what extent the link between an object and one’s sense of self can affect consumption

choices. As described, the key to understanding what possessions mean is recognizing

that, knowingly or unknowingly, intentionally or unintentionally, we regard our

possessions as parts of ourselves (Belk, 1988). As such, objects, especially clothing, have

played a significant role in creating, supporting, and ‘advertising’ our identities/identity

to others. For example, an occupation such as being a lawyer, is part of your identity and

the clothes that go along with that support that identity. Thus, clothing is a non-verbal

form of communication that helps to covey our self-image to others. Wearing a suit and

tie communicates your social identity differently than wearing jeans and a white tee-shirt.

According to Belk (1988), because the construct of extended self involves consumer

behaviour rather than buyer behaviour, consumer behaviour referring to the entire

consumption decision making from need recognition to post-consumption disposal, and

buyer behaviour referring to the actual purchase decision only, it appears to be a much

30
richer construct than previous formulations positing a relationship between self-concept

and consumer brand choice. When physical objects are used to express identity in such a

way, strong emotional attachments to these items develop (Belk, 1988), explaining to

some degree the significance of fashion goods in the lives of many consumers. Objects

that are purchased of our own volition are closer to and of greater importance to us than

other possessions; this is due to the investments we made in that product: money, energy,

time, and feeling (Manolică et al, 2019).

Sartre (1943) suggests that there are three primary ways through which we learn

to look at our objects as parts of ourselves. The first way is through acquisition and

control of an object for personal use. The second way is through creation of an object.

The third way is focused on objects becoming part of ourselves through learning (Sartre,

1943, as cited in Belk, 1988; Manolică et al, 2019). Sartre acknowledges that having

possessions functions to create and to maintain a sense of self-definition and that having,

doing, and being are integrally related. For example, creating pieces of clothing,

including clothing that has been upcycled or changed to represent your social identity,

holds greater meaning to who you are than mass produced clothing purchased from a

retailer. Those who create a particular piece tend to get attached to these possessions

more easily as they put more time, effort, and care into handling and creating them.

Through the selection and creation of certain colours, patterns, and fit, upcycled clothing

can display our personal preferences and personalities.

Another example is attaching emotional value to a particular material object; in

this case emotional attachment to a piece of clothing becomes visible through the lack of

willingness to dispose of worn-out clothes because they are associated with certain

31
memories of the past and the past self that experienced those memories (Boosma, 2020).

Researchers Epp and Price (2009), further develop the theme of emotional attachment,

but with shared objects, through analyzing the role of material culture in families. The

creation, consumption, and use of shared objects, ranging from dinner plates to kitchen

tables, helps to create family identities. Epp and Price (2009) propose that a singularized

object can maintain perpetual importance and sacred status in a family and still be

displaced by a convergence of network forces. Their research shows that an object may

be pushed into fluctuating periods of activity and inactive displacement. Objects that

possess a strong family identity will be reincorporated into the home during stages of

inactivity rather than thrown away. This can further our understanding of the emotional

connection given to objects and how they represent an extension of ourselves or our

family identity.

Recognition of the need for consumers to seek authenticity in their objects has

been steadily growing within academic literature. Researchers Grayson and Martinec

distinguish two kinds of authenticity which consumers seek in their consumption choices:

Indexical authenticity, which describes an object as authentic when it is believed to be

“the original” or “the real thing” (Grayson and Martinec, 2004) and Iconic authenticity,

which describes something whose physical manifestation resembles something that is

indexically authentic (Grayson and Martinec, 2004). Both are of utmost importance when

evaluating social identities and the perceived value of an object. Consumers respond

positively to brands they believe are authentic and help represent their authentic selves.

The Theory of the Extended Self helps us to understand the way consumption

defines people’s sense of who they are. In essence, identity and fashion are locked in an

32
intimate relationship allowing people to express their true identity or who they want to

be. Belk’s theory can help us further understand why consumers seek authenticity in their

clothing choices, choose to hold onto particular items rather than throw them out, and

why consumers choose to upcycle or manipulate articles of clothing.

3.3 Materiality

Materials play a large role in the retail industry because the material ultimately

reflects the quality in the final manufactured garment. However, studies on materiality

have typically focused on elements such as production and consumption without

recognizing the relation of materials to the material garments themselves (Slater, 2014).

Recently, researchers have become more invested in the exploration of materiality and its

transformative affect. It is vital to understand the importance of the materiality of

clothing as it is central to our experiences and understandings within social and cultural

contexts (Woodward & Fisher, 2014). As Daniel Miller, author of the book Stuff,

explains the best way to understand, convey, and appreciate our humanity is through

attention to our fundamental materiality which is more than artifacts and their agency - it

encompasses that Pandora's box we call “culture” (Miller, 2010). Miller argues that

individuals learn to become members of society through general habits and dispositions

of that society by the way they interact in their everyday practices, which is already pre-

structured in the objects they find around them (Miller, 2010). Miller explains that

studying materiality can help us in understanding material phenomenon’s that occur in

everyday life. Material culture studies was developed to solve long-standing problems

involving the relationship between the social/cultural meanings and the material qualities

of objects. The material qualities of objects, such as clothing, impact upon how certain

33
pieces of clothing can externalize particular cultural categories of identities (Woodward

& Fisher, 2014). For example, the Japanese kimono is one of the richest examples of the

aspects of material culture available (O’Connor, 2005). The colours, shape, construction,

and fabrics (typically silk) are specific to Japanese culture, symbolizing good fortune

(O’Connor, 2005). Kimonos have a set method of construction that makes them unique to

other articles of clothing. They can also be seen in a variety of colours that represent

different meanings for example red (Shōjōhi) is known as a sacred colour which

represents life’s vitals: the dawn, fire, and blood. While blue (Hana asagi) evokes

elements of the natural world, the sky and the ocean (Romack, 2018). Clothing is not

seen as superficial instead clothing makes us into who we think we are (Miller, 2010). In

this example the kimono is a representation of being both female and Japanese. Once

viewed simply as mere artefacts, it is now recognized that cloth and clothing are

culturally constructed commodities with complex symbolic properties, linking past and

present, transforming through belief, carrying fundamental values (O’Connor, 2005).

Clothing reflects the beliefs and values of individuals and groups. For example,

clothing worn by youth subcultures, counter cultures, tribes, gay cultures contribute to

our understanding of how values associated with specific social identities are expressed

through clothing (Hebdige, 1979; Corey and Millage, 2014; Thompson and Haytko,

1997). It could be expected for an individual presenting as a vegan or an environmentalist

to be more prone to wear vegan leather as it mimics real leather but offers an eco-friendly

sustainable alternative.

In a special ‘Materiality’ edition of Archaeological Dialogues in 2007, Tim

Ingold explained that we are ‘immersed’ in materials, as material objects are all around

34
us, but we ‘transform’ materials through construction, acquisition and use (Ingold, 2007).

Ingold suggests that materials are part of everyday life, but a piece of uncut fabric is not

what holds meaning. Rather the fabric is created and transformed into something with

meaning. Academic literature offers a variety of approaches to the study of materiality

(Weiner & Schneider 1989; Küchler 2005), including a focus upon specific materials

(O’Connor, 2005), personal collections of clothing (Woodward, 2007) and the fibres

from which clothing is made, as items are produced, break down and are recycled (Provin

et al, 2021; Han et al, 2015). Specifically, certain textiles and fabrics are chosen for

reasons of functionality, design, and cost (Ross, 2017). Bringing these elements together

provides individuals with meaning and value (Ross, 2017). Clothes have the ability to

transform the body and can be seen and studied as ‘lived garments’ (Küchler & Miller

2005; Andrewes 2005; Klepp & Bjerck, 2014).

The materiality of clothing influences the upcycling process. When considering

the purchase of second-hand clothing individuals seek certain fabrics and garment

construction for upcycling purposes. For example, certain materials such as cotton can be

dyed whereas polyester cannot. Further, some fabrics are easier to manipulate than

others. Individuals may seek out specific material to cut, sew, and transform into a new

piece. Garment construct is an important element to individuals as the quality of the

garment and how it is made can determine the value. Clothing gets part of its meanings

from materials and materiality, but clothes do not reveal their interesting forms until they

are transformed and worn (Hazel, 2012). In addition to the creative and upcycling

process, the materiality of clothing also influences purchasing decisions. The goods we

buy to clothe ourselves help display and represent certain identities to others and

35
ourselves (Hobbs, 2016). When individuals belong to a certain social group their intent to

purchase may be guided by their need to belong (Vargas-Bianchi, 2021). Materiality

could provide a plausible explanation as to why an individual who identifies as an

environmentalist would seek out organic cotton t-shirts rather than other textiles. Certain

clothing pieces may help to represent an individual’s values and beliefs more than others.

Focusing on materiality allows us to delve into the longer-term relationships

people have to second-hand clothing consumption, helping us to understand what the

material object itself represents and why it is important to the individual who chose it.

The Theory of Materiality will be used throughout my research as a lens to analyze its

influence on upcycling specifically with regards to the quality of material chosen, fibres

of the material, and the design aspects, as well as its influence on the purchasing

decisioning with regard to social identities.

3.4 Theory Relationship

Whetten (1989) suggested that a good theory answers key questions about a

phenomenon such as what, how, why, as well as who, where and when. However,

creating a theory can be a time-consuming approach. Thus, researchers often turn to their

research fields for inspiration, aiming to make theoretical progress in their field

(Berkovich, 2020). Theory borrowing from other fields is a common practice in research.

Theory borrowing can be defined as a social practice of researchers who adopt a theory

conceived in a certain research domain or social context to explain a phenomenon in

another research domain or social context (Murray et al, 1989; Berkovich, 2020). In order

to minimize mis-borrowing, it is necessary that the borrowing process become explicit,

purposive and conscious (Berkovich, 2020). Social Identity Theory, the Theory of the

36
Extended Self, and the Theory of Materiality share common underlying themes which are

borrowed from other researchers to aid in my understanding of the second-hand

phenomenon.

These theories were carefully selected to aid in my understanding of consumer

motivations for second-hand consumption. Tajfel’s Theory on Social Identity is based on

an individual's self-concept derived from perceived membership in a relevant social

group (Tajfel, 1978). This concept is similar to Belk’s Theory on Extended Self, which

examines how individuals regard possessions as parts of themselves and their identity

(Belk, 1988). Both theories discuss how individuals perceive themselves and their

identify. Similarly, the Theory of Materiality (Woodward & Fisher, 2014) is based on the

ability to bring materials to life. Thus, people shape materials into tangible pieces that

provide meaning. The Theory of Materiality examines the way that individuals use

material objects as tools for conveying certain aspects of their identities (Sofaer, 2007).

Using these three theories provides a purposive technique in understanding consumer

motivations to purchase second-hand clothing. These three theories work alongside each

other allowing for a more meaningful analysis of my data. Through these theories I can

guide the selection of relevant data, interpret the data, and propose explanations of the

underlying causes or influences of the observed second-hand apparel purchasing

phenomena.

3.5 Theory Selection

Theory selection was completed based off theory appropriateness, ease of

application, and explanatory power. I first chose to evaluate my research based on Social

Identity Theory and Extended Self Theory. These two theories were considered prior to

37
the data collection phase. With prior knowledge on both theories, I believe these theories

spoke best towards the motivations consumers have when purchasing second-hand

apparel. Specifically, Social Identity Theory focuses on the social or ‘others aspect’

meaning consumers identity is part of a whole community (Tajfel, 1978). Whereas

Extended Self Theory focuses on the ‘individual aspect’ and how one might advertise

their personal identity (Belk, 1988). The combination of the two theories gave me a good

understanding on consumer behaviour from the ‘individual’ perspective and ‘other’

perspective while helping to define the aim of my research and research questions.

After repeated observation of my data set, the Theory of Materiality was drawn

from consumer responses. The Theory of Materiality gave me a unique lens that focused

on what arose from my data set. This provided a more thorough understanding of

consumer responses and helped to guide and give meaning to what I was seeing.

The combination of the three theories gave unique insights into consumer

motivations to purchase second-hand apparel allowing for a more meaningful analysis.

3.6 Conclusion

Social Identity Theory, the Theory of the Extended Self, and Theory of

Materiality will all be utilized throughout my research to help provide new insights into

understanding the second-hand apparel consumption phenomena. Tajfel’s Theory on

Social Identity will be used throughout my research to investigate the social identities of

second-hand apparel consumers and how these identities influence purchasing behaviour.

Belk’s Theory of the Extended Self will be used throughout my research to investigate

why consumers choose to hold onto items rather than throw them out and why consumers

choose to upcycle or manipulate articles of clothing. Lastly, the Theory of Materiality

38
will be used throughout my research as a lens to analyze the influence of the material

composition of clothing on upcycling, specifically with regards to the quality of material

chosen, fibres of the material, and the design aspects. Working together, these theories

bring new insights into understanding consumers’ underlying shopping motivations.

39
CHAPTER 4 - RESEARCH METHODOLODGY

In this study I examine consumer motivations for second-hand apparel shopping

through individual experiences of second-hand consumption. I conducted

phenomenological interviews to gain insights into consumer motivations to purchase

second-hand apparel. My study employs a phenomenological, qualitative research design,

within which hermeneutic phenomenology is used to develop a greater understanding of

individual experiences. This chapter explores my prior work conducted on the topic and

how it has been integrated into the research design for the thesis. Other elements of

research design, including sample selection and recruitment methods are also discussed.

Further, data analysis and interpretation are outlined.

4.1 Goals and Objectives

As mentioned in chapter one, little research has been conducted within Canada

with respect to consumer motivations for the consumption of second-hand clothing. The

aim of my study is to identify the motivations of the generational cohorts of Millennials

(1981-1996) and Generation Z (1997-2015) with respect to second-hand clothing

consumption. Additionally, my study seeks to identify the significance of sustainability

motives related to second-hand consumption and provide insights on the importance of

consumers’ motivations for the consumption of second-hand clothing.

4.2 Epistemology Framework

Epistemology, known as the theory of knowledge, is concerned with all aspects of

the validity, scope, and methods of acquiring knowledge (Standford Encyclopedia of

Philosophy, 2005). As such, epistemology influences how researchers frame their

research in the attempt to discover knowledge. Interpretivism is one position of

40
epistemology, and holds that humans construct knowledge as they interpret their

experiences of and in the world; rejecting the objectivist notion that knowledge is simply

there to be identified and collected (Constantino, 2008; Pascale, 2011). For my research, I

adopt interpretivism as the main school of thought aligning with the belief that reality is

subjective, socially constructed, and a composite of multiple perspectives (Chowdhury,

2014). Adopting an interpretive lens allows me to access multiple forms of knowledge

through gathering accounts of participants’ personal experiences. According to Hudson

and Ozanne (1988), the researcher enters the field with some sort of prior insight of the

research context but assumes that this is insufficient in developing a fixed research design

due to the complex, multiple and unpredictable nature of what is perceived as reality

(Hudson and Ozanne, 1988). Similarly, I, the researcher, am part of my research and

cannot be objectively removed. Although having previous knowledge and personal

experiences with shopping second-hand, I entered my interviews assuming this was

insufficient in developing further knowledge on the topic. I wanted to include a variety of

perspectives on my research topic, subsequently I asked semi-structured questions,

sought out sources to support my interpretations, and reviewed other possible motivations

through secondary data collection.

Qualitative research emphasises words rather than quantification of data, placing

emphasis on interpretation of world experiences through the eyes of the participants (Bell

et al, 2019). This empathetic stance is much in tune with interpretivism and demonstrates

well the epistemological links with phenomenology (Bell et al, 2019). Phenomenology is

a qualitative research approach that seeks to understand and describe the universal

essence of a phenomenon through direct interaction between the researcher and the

41
objects of study (Neubauer et al, 2019; Wojnar & Swanson, 2007). Gaining knowledge

through qualitative research allows me to utilize a naturalistic approach in understanding

the second-hand phenomenon. This aligns with Thompson’s et al’s (1989) method of

existential phenomenology. Existential phenomenology provides a philosophical base

from which to explore consumer experiences. The result is a contextually based, holistic

psychology that views human beings in non-dualistic terms and seeks to attain a first-

person description of experience (Thompson et al, 1989). In the context of my research,

human beings are considered to seek a broader, dynamic, imaginative, and more mature

contemplation of perceived lived events (Rohr, 2009). Through an interpretive lens, my

research is shaped through a composite of multiple perspectives. Participants share their

meanings and motivations of second-hand shopping through their personal experiences

allowing me to gain insights into second-hand consumption. This deepens my

understanding of the experiences and perspectives of others through its focus upon the

meanings that those experiences make in their lives and the choices that are reflected in

their understanding and actions.

Further, I use hermeneutic analysis to interpret participants’ stories and

experiences for the purpose of understanding perceptions and motivations. According to

Arnold and Fisher (1994), the most recent version of hermeneutics to emerge is

phenomenological hermeneutics, which mediates between a recapture of an objective

sense of text and an existential appropriation of its meaning into understanding.

Specifically, my data set consists of consumer experiences of shopping second-hand and

the text is drawn from phenomenological interviews. The structure to phenomenological

interviewing applies questions based on themes of experience contextualization,

42
apprehending the phenomenon and its clarification (Lauterbach, 2018; Bevan, 2014).

This method allows for use of imaginative variation to explore experience. The aim of

my analysis is to raise awareness and identify meanings surrounding the second-hand

clothes shopping phenomenon. Within hermeneutic phenomenology van Manen (2016)

describes two main purposes of phenomenological interviewing; (1) as a means to

explore and develop a rich understanding of the phenomenon; (2) to develop a

conversation around the meaning of experience (van Manen, 2016). This type of analysis

provides the opportunity to develop thematic descriptions of individual meanings and

investigates the broader cultural context where these meanings can be applied (Bell et al,

2019). By using a qualitative approach and hermeneutic analysis, I was able to create and

analyze an environment where participants can share their thoughts, inner feelings, and

experiences, granting me an in-depth exploration of the topic and a holistic understanding

of their motivations.

4.3 Research Design

My research study employs a qualitative research design in which hermeneutic

phenomenology is used to develop a greater understanding of individual experiences.

Although I conducted some exploratory research as part of an undergraduate class

assignment, my thesis research is more rigorous, incorporating the academic literature to

a greater extent and based on knowledge gained throughout the Master of Science in

Management program.

4.3.1 Motivation for Research

Motivation for my research sprang from an undergraduate research project

conducted in April 2019. This project introduced me to some of the literature and allowed

43
me to gain experience in conducting research. My thesis does not use data from my

undergraduate project, but rather this project provided the inspiration for my current

research. Additionally, participants from my undergraduate project were contacted to

participate in my current research.

4.3.2 Data Collection

Data collection was done through three rounds of phenomenological interviews.

The Covid-19 pandemic imposed restrictions on in-person meetings, as such, interviews

were conducted online through Microsoft Teams. In total, 45 phenomenological

interviews were conducted. All participants were asked to fill out a consent form before

the interview took place, it included granting permission for both audio and video

recordings. Semi-structured questions were used to probe participants’ responses on

second-hand consumption. Participants were given the freedom to talk as much or as little

as they wanted. My intent was to be conversational in my approach to allow for greater

flexibility that could accommodate participants’ responses and new directions that arose.

Interviews typically lasted 60 minutes. During each interview I took notes on interesting

points and key concepts that participants discussed. If needed, I would ask participants to

expand or clarify their thoughts or feelings on their talking points. Body language, facial

expression, and tone of voice played a large part throughout the interview process,

helping me understand the participants’ thoughts, in order to fully grasp the meaning of

the message they tried to convey. At the end of each interview participants were asked to

share a picture of their favorite piece of second-hand clothing. Those who were willing

sent their pictures directly to me through email. These pictures were used for reference

when transcribing interviews and for analysis.

44
4.3.3 Phenomenological Interviews

In total three rounds of data collection occurred for my current research project

over the course of 2020-2022 (see timeline in Appendix F). Each round of data collection

built on the previous round and each round consisted of phenomenological interviews.

My first round of data collection was conducted during the months of May to

August 2020 (See Appendix G). This round consisted of 14 interviews which were

integrated into my Masters’ research. My research questions included: What motivations

are driving consumer second-hand clothing purchasing behaviour? Are consumers

switching from fast fashion to vintage and/or thrift clothing? If so, why? My research

methodology included both primary and secondary data collection. I analyzed academic

journal articles to gain a better understanding of consumer purchase intentions and

conducted interviews to investigate consumer motivations through lived experiences. My

set of participants consisted of 3 males and 13 females ranging in age from 18 to 31. All

14 participants identified as consumers, of these participants two also identified as

retailers. The first round of data collection was crucial as it helped me learn whether there

were new insights into the topic of second-hand apparel consumption, provided me with

the opportunity to delve deeper into the literature, and allowed me to develop my

research skills. The purpose of the first round was to gain insights into motivations

driving consumer purchasing behaviour and delve into underlying reasons consumers are

switching from fast fashion to vintage and/or thrift clothing. Limitations of my first round

of data collection included the small sample size, little age variation, as most participants

were in the Generation Z age cohort, the broad focus, as consumers talked about vintage

and thrift apparel, and a condensed data collection period. As such, additional data

45
collection was required and tweaks in the research design were made for the second

round of data collection.

The second round of interviews began during September 2021 (See Appendix G).

This round consisted of 18 interviews including 6 re-interviews. My set of participants

for the second round consisted of 6 males and 12 females. The purpose of the second-

round of interviews was to clarify my research question and narrow my scope. This

allowed me to limit generalizations found in the first round and focus on specifically

understanding the driving forces behind consumers’ second-hand clothing purchasing

behaviour. Ethics approval was updated moving into the second round as my research

design was tweaked to incorporate additional rounds of interviews, new recruitment

techniques using the participant pool (round three), and to account for changes due to the

Covid-19 pandemic. During this phase the research question was redefined, and the focus

was directed to ‘second-hand’ clothing rather than ‘vintage’. Additionally, the third round

of interviews gave me the opportunity to re-interview a few participants from the first

round of interviews and a few participants from the second round to seek clarification and

investigate any changing motivations across the year. In addition, some of the

participants may have graduated and entered the working world during the duration of

my study. Consequently, my idea was to analyze the changing motivations from ‘student’

to ‘working professional’.

The third round of interviews began during January 2022 (See Appendix G). This

round consisted of 13 interviews. My set of participants for the third round consisted of 5

males and 8 females. The purpose of the third round was to gain more participants from

the Generation Z cohort. Individuals who participated through Sprott’s participant pool

46
received bonus credit in their Introduction to Marketing class, incentivizing more people

to participate.

According to Dworkin (2012), a large number of articles, book chapters, and

books recommend guidance and suggest anywhere from 5 to 50 participants are adequate

when conducting qualitative research. As such, I conducted 45 interviews to gain insights

into the phenomenon under evaluation. Overall, 39 unique individuals participated in my

study and 45 phenomenological interviews were conducted. Millennials and Generation

Z were the two main generational cohorts under examination as there was little focus on

these cohorts in prior literature.

4.3.4 Design Suitability

I was flexible in my approach to interviewing to elicit participants’ shopping

motivations. Semi-structured questions were utilized as conversation starters to gain an

understanding of participants’ experience while allowing flexibility in the conversation in

case other important notes arose. I had a list of pre-set questions to act as an interview

guide but allowed my participants leeway in their responses (See Appendix H). If

necessary, I asked follow up or probing questions to clarify behaviours or meanings. This

allowed participants to bring up responses that may not have been asked, exposing new

stories and motivations. Positive benefits of this technique include flexibility in approach,

encouragement of two-way communication, and exploration of participants’ thoughts and

feelings (Bell et al, 2019). Unlike surveys or questionnaires, using open-ended questions

welcomed participants to guide the research, presenting new ways for seeing and

understanding the topic at hand. There was no strict time limit on my interviews allowing

47
participants to talk as much or as little as they wanted, although most interviews lasted

approximately one hour.

4.4 Sample Selection

Specifically, my study focuses on the generational cohorts of Millennials and

Generation Z. This section defines the cohorts in terms of demographics and describes

their values.

4.4.1 Millennials and Generation Z

Millennials, also commonly referred to as Generation Y, are individuals born

between 1981 – 1996 and are currently between the ages of 26 - 41. This generation

represents the fastest growing population within Canada (Statistics Canada, 2021). The

number of people in this generation increased 8.6% between 2016 and 2021, compared

with 5.2% for the overall population (Statistics Canada, 2021). Population statistics

suggest that Millennials will soon become the largest generation in the country and will

outnumber those of the Baby Boomer generation (1946 – 1965) by 2029 (Statistics

Canada, 2021).

Generation Z are those directly following the Millennials and are known to be the

most racially and ethnically diverse generation (Bobbi and Erwin, 2017). These

individuals are born between 1997 – 2015 and are between the ages of 10 - 25. This

generation represents the second fastest growing population within Canada, increasing by

6.4% from 2016 to 6.7 million in 2021 (Statistics Canada, 2021). Generation Z is

projected to outnumber Baby Boomers and Millennials by 2045 (Statistics Canada,

2021).

48
 Since the Millennial and Generation Z cohorts are growing in number, they are

shaping the future of shopping by their accumulated spending power and values

associated with sustainability.

4.4.2 Demographics

Millennials are now the top educational attainment generation with about 70% of

those between 30 and 34 years old obtaining a post-secondary diploma or degree (Heisz

and Richards, 2019). Due to higher education levels, Millennials typically have higher

disposable income. Early in their life cycle and their prime working years, Millennials

have a higher household income than previous generations. For Millennial households

that reached the age of 31 in 2019, their average disposable income was $80,200

(Statistics Canada, 2019). This is higher than for those Generation X (1966 – 1980)

households who, upon reaching the same age in 2002, had an average income of $68,700

(Statistics Canada, 2019). Most Millennials joined the workforce during a period of rapid

globalization and economic privatization both in Canada and internationally (Jezer-

Morton, 2019). This has shaped their collective expectations with regards to career path

and economic security. In the 2021 Census, of the 23,957,760 Canadians in the working-

age population, 33.2% were Millennials, 29.5% were Gen Xers, 19.7% were baby

boomers, and 17.6% were Generation Z (Statistics Canada, 2021). While Millennials

earned more than Generation X, they also spent more in inflation-adjusted terms, at

$80,189 versus $68,688 respectively (Statistics Canada, 2019). The onset of the Covid-19

pandemic led to upheavals in the housing market and housing needs of many Canadians.

Although Millennials have the largest numbers in the workforce, the Covid-19 pandemic

has drastically affected the housing market and Millennials’ ability to purchase homes.

49
The expected value of homes rose 50% (Statistics Canada, 2022). With housing prices

continuing to rise, Millennials are increasingly likely to rent. Millennials represent the

largest share of condominium occupants (30.2%) compared with the other generations

(Statistics Canada, 2022). Further, Millennials are more racially and ethnically diverse

than previous generations and typically have a higher degree and acceptance of different

lifestyles, cultures, and behaviours (Cham et al, 2018). Compared to prior generations,

Millennials embrace modes of self-expression. Three-quarters have created a profile on a

social networking site, one-in-five have posted a video of themselves online and nearly

four-in-ten have a tattoo (PEW Research Center, 2010). As such, they are proving to be

the generation of change, openness, and evolving interests.

Millennials are a lucrative market for secondhand retailers but studies on their

shopping motivations are minimal. With greater education, strong purchasing power, and

evolving interests, Millennials are more likely to embrace the trend of second-hand

consumption and sustainable living. They are reshaping the market and becoming one of

the prime generations to target.

Generation Z are following closely to Millennials and are on track to becoming

the most educated generation following higher high school graduation rates and lower

dropout rates (Parker and Igielnik, 2020). Due to their age, those in Generation Z do not

have a high-income level as many are in the early phases of their careers or have yet to

begin (Statistics Canada, 2021). As a result of Covid-19 many of those in Generation Z

had their education disrupted, career plans changed, and financial prospects diminished

(Canadians Banker Association, 2021). As mentioned, in the 2021 Census, 17.6% of

Canadians in the working-age population were Generation Z while 33.2% were

50
Millennials. Generation Z accounted for roughly half of the country’s drop in

employment since the onset of the pandemic, and more than 130,000 young people had

dropped out of the labour force entirely (Canadians Banker Association, 2021).

Regardless of the hard hit from the pandemic, those in Generation Z are resilient. A

survey done by the Canadians Banker Association found that those in Generation Z are

financially minded. Of the 763 individuals surveyed, 74% of them have a savings

account, 69% have sought advice regarding financial planning or debt management, and

98% are actively making plans to strengthen their financial situation (Canadians Banker

Association, 2021). One in 3 (37%), urban Canadian Generation Z adults expect to

purchase their first home within the next 5 years (Statistics Canada, 2022). Generation Z

homebuyers are confronting significant housing affordability concerns and they not only

desire home ownership but regard it as being integral to their financial security and

planning (Insight the Art of Living, 2022). Furthermore, Generation Z exhibits many

worthy traits including an increased openness to diversity, and a desire to make a

difference and have a positive impact on the world (Dougherty et al, 2020). Generation Z

is progressive in nature and holds strong world views. They believe that through their

actions and choices they can create change (Dougherty et al, 2020).

Despite the effects of Covid-19 and Generation Z’s restrictions in the job market,

they are a favorable target audience for retailers as they show prospective desire to

purchase products second-hand. With higher housing costs Generation Z might find

favorable options purchasing second-hand items of typical lower costs. Lower cost items

could prove to be more attractive to this cohort offering the ability to save in areas of

higher importance. Generation Z ushers a new set of expectations prioritizing a desire to

51
make a difference in the world, sharing similar values to the non-excessive and modest

consumption that second-hand retailers offer.

4.4.3 Values Linked to Sustainability

Younger Canadians, such as Millennials and Generation Z, are showing

increasingly high levels of engagement with environmental issues. As two generational

cohorts, they are looking at the impact they are having or can have on where they work,

what they purchase, and what they consume (Roper, 2020). In data collected by Deloitte

in their latest Global Millennial Survey for 2020, a significant number of Millennials and

Generation Z respondents said they are focused on key environmental concerns within

their own lives (Deloitte, 2020). When it comes to single-plastic use, 64 percent of

Millennials and 55 percent of those in Generation Z said they take action in reducing

their use, another 52 percent and 42 percent, respectively, said they actively buy more

organic, local food, and importantly for this research, 50 percent of Millennials and 41

percent of Generation Z said they have stopped or are reducing the purchase of fast

fashion (Deloitte, 2020). Noticeably, many are talking about the need for action and feel

personal responsibility to make a positive change.

Millennials and Generation Z play an important role in the consumption of

second-hand products; both cohorts are placing more emphasis on organizational values

and whether they align with their own personal environmental values. Nine in ten

Generation Z consumers believe companies have a responsibility to address

environmental and social issues (Roy, 2019). Growing concerns of climate change and

pollution are motivating young consumers to reduce their carbon footprints and shop

sustainably (Mcgrath, 2022). These generations are more likely to shop second-hand

52
compared to the generations that came before them (Mcgrath, 2022). As such, retailers

need to be aware of the shift in values to effectively target this market.

4.5 Recruitment Methods

My participants were recruited based on the following criteria: (1) above the age

of 18, (2) within the generational cohorts of Millennial or Generation Z and (3) have

shopped for or sold second-hand clothing. This criterion was used to ensure my

participants represented my target audience and drove results to enhance knowledge on

second-hand consumption. Participant recruitment first looked at those individuals who

have previously contributed to my personal research (See Appendix I). This allowed a

longitudinal perspective across three years of changing environmental conditions due to

the Covid-19 pandemic and changing life circumstances for those who would be learning

online versus in person. Additionally new recruits were sought out through social media

posts, Sprott’s participant pool, direct participant contact, and referrals.

4.5.1 Participant Recruitment

To recruit informants for the first round of interviews I created an advertisement

using the free graphic design platform Canva (See Appendix J). Due to the Covid-19

pandemic recruitment methods took place online. As such, I leveraged my personal

networks and distributed the advertisement on my personal Facebook and Instagram

accounts during May 2020. I found this form of recruitment to be very effective as many

individuals showed interest in the post. The advertisement was reshared by some in my

personal network to those of their personal network. The bulk of my network falls into

the early Generation Z/late Millennials category of which I am a part. This made it more

accessible to recruit participants that met age requirements.

53
 To gain participation in the second round of interviews I created a new

advertisement using Canva (See Appendix K). The new advertisement differed from the

first advertisement in terms of color scheme and background photos. As I was sharing the

advertisement with the same network, I created something slightly different to catch

attention. Additionally, wording was changed to only incorporate ‘thrift’ and ‘second-

hand’ instead of ‘vintage’. This was due to the redefined research question and scope.

Similarly, the new advertisement was distributed on my personal Facebook and

Instagram accounts during November 2021. This advertisement was also reshared by

some in my personal network. I found this advertisement to be effective in reaching my

desired target audience.

4.5.2 Sprott’s Online Participant Pool (SONA)

To gain participation in the third round of interviews I utilized Sprott School of

Business’s online participant pool. Students were offered up to 2% bonus incentive to

their final grade in BUSI 2208 Introduction to Marketing if they completed research

participation requirements. To use SONA, I uploaded some general information about my

study including an overview of the topic, participation requirements and ethics clearance.

My SONA profile was created in March 2022. I found SONA to be a great recruitment

method as students were given an incentive to participate, enticing them to contribute to

my study.

4.5.3 Direct Participant Contact

Although being successful in finding consumer participants through social media

and SONA, I used different methods to recruit seller participants. Once Covid-19

restrictions were lifted, I visited second-hand stores within the general Toronto area

54
(Hamilton, Guelph, Waterdown, etc.) in person, and directly reached out to sellers who

had an online social media presence on Instagram. I visited stores in the general Toronto

area as this location was close in proximity to my place of residence. Upon entering a

store, I would usually speak to the owner, manager, or acting administrator. In total, I

physically visited 11 second-hand stores and reached out to 2 online stores (see Appendix

L for list of physically visited stores). After the initial conversation, I would follow up

with each individual store through email to provide more information on my study. I did

not find this method to be very effective in gaining participants as only a few individuals

participated. Personally, I think individuals were skeptical as they had never been

approached before for a research project and were unfamiliar with the process and

requirements. Initially individuals seemed interested but either (1) did not have the time

or (2) did not want to partake in my study. In total, over the three rounds of data

collection, all 39 individuals identified as consumers, with three of these individuals also

identifying as retailers.

4.5.4 Referrals

Some of my participants were gained through referrals, also known as

‘snowballing’. After each interview I would ask participants if they knew of anyone who

met my participation criteria and would be willing to participate. This was a good way to

gain participants as many interviewees had friends with the same interests in second-hand

shopping as them.

55
 In total 39 individuals were interviewed, 6 individuals were re-interviewed, and 45 interviews took place. 3 rounds of data

collection occurred between 2020 – 2022. The table below summarizes the demographic characteristics of my participants. Note that

pseudonyms are used to maintain the anonymity of participants.

Table 4: My Participants
Name Gender Generational Location Type of Shopper Occupation Consumer or Round of Interview
Cohort Retailer
Audrey Female Generation Z Burlington Thrift Working Retailer Second
Brittney Female Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Working Consumer First
Cole Male Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Third
David Male Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Third
Ethan Male Generation Z Barrie Vintage Student Consumer Second
Fiona Female Millennial Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer First
Gabby Female Millennial Ottawa Thrift Working Consumer Second
Henry Male Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Third
Ila Female Millennial Toronto Vintage Student Consumer First
Janice Female Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Second, Third
Kevin Male Generation Z Guelph Thrift Student Consumer Second
Lola Female Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Third
Mila Female Millennial Ottawa Thrift Unemployed Consumer First
Nicole Female Millennial Ottawa Thrift Working Consumer Second
Otis Male Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Working Consumer First, Second
Penelope Female Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Third

56
 Quin Female Millennial Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer First
Rufus Male Millennial Hamilton Vintage Working Retailer First
Sadie Female Millennial Vancouver Thrift Student Consumer First
Taylor Female Millennial Hamilton Thrift Working Consumer Second
Ursula Female Millennial P.E.I Thrift Unemployed Consumer First, Second
Vivian Female Millennial Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer First
Willa Female Generation Z Hamilton Thrift Working Consumer Second
Xema Female Millennial Vancouver Thrift Student Consumer Second, Third
Yvonne Female Generation Z Ottawa Vintage Working Consumer First, Second
Zion Male Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Second
Ava Female Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Third
Blair Female Millennial Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Third
Charlotte Female Millennial Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Second
Daniel Male Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Third
Eloise Female Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Third
Faith Female Generation Z Montreal Thrift Student Consumer Second
Gerald Male Generation Z St. Catharines Thrift Working Consumer Second
Harold Male Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Third
Isabella Female Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer Third
Josie Female Generation Z Calgary Thrift Student Consumer First, Second
Kayla Female Millennial Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer First
Lilly Female Generation Z Ottawa Thrift Student Consumer First
Max Male Generation Z Ottawa Vintage Student Retailer Second

57
 27 Female 24 Generation Z 11 Locations 34 Thrift 27 Student 36 Consumers First Round: 14
TOTAL 12 Male 15 Millennials 5 Vintage 10 Working 3 Retailers interviews
2 Unemployed Second Round: 18
39 Total interviews
Third Round: 13
interviews
6 Re-interviews

58
 Participants were analyzed based on seven different categories: gender identity,

generational cohort (Millennials or Generation Z), current city of residence, type of

shopper (thrift or vintage), current state of employment, consumer versus retailer, and the

number of interviews participated in. As the research design evolved, I focused more on

individuals who preferred ‘thrift’ shopping than ‘vintage’ shopping. Further, throughout

the rounds of data collection I sought out more participants to gain additional

perspectives. In total 3 rounds of data collection occurred throughout 2020 – 2022.

Of participants, 69% identified as female and 31% identified as male. This was

expected as typically women shop second-hand more frequently than men (Hobbs, 2016).

Further, 61.5% of individuals were born between the year 1997 – 2015 which falls into

the Generation Z age cohort while 38.5% of individuals were born between the year 1981

– 1996 which falls into the Millennials age cohort. As seen in Appendix M, these cohorts

are driving growth of second-hand consumption 2.5 times faster than other generations

(Global Data Thred Up, 2021).

During the time of interviews participants were residing in 11 different cities

within Canada. My research specifically focused on Canadian participants as North

America proves to be the leader in second-hand consumption among other continents

(Global Data ThredUp, 2022). According to CPA Canada, 85% of Canadians participate

in the second-hand economy valued at $28.5 billion in 2018 (De Lajartre, 2018). Since

then, these numbers have steadily increased (De Lajartre).

Participants were asked whether they consider themselves to be thrift or vintage

shoppers. 87% of participants identified as thrift while 13% identified as vintage. This

was expected as vintage apparel is associated with higher costs while thrifted apparel is

59
associated with lower costs (Cassidy and Bennet, 2012). The Generation Z cohort

typically has a lower income in comparison to other age cohorts (Statistics Canada, 2022)

correlating to the greater preference in thrift apparel. Furthermore, of the participants

69% were students attending an academic institution (university, college, high school),

26% were employed, and 5% were unemployed. Of individuals, 92% identified as

consumers (those who buy second-hand products) while 8% identified as retailers (those

who sell second-hand products). Lastly, of the 39 individuals that participated in my

study 6 were contacted to be re-interviewed. Follow up questions were asked to those

who were re-interviewed. Re-interviews usually occurred to seek further clarification on

participants’ thoughts, following the review of the initial interview transcript. Re-

interviews took place during the second and third round of data collection.

At the end of each interview, participants were asked permission to be contacted

for any follow up questions. Of the 39 individuals that participated in my study 6 were

contacted to be re-interviewed. Re-interviews usually occurred to seek further

clarification on participants’ thoughts. Particularly, participants who showed greater

interest in sustainability and sustainable consumption were asked to be re-interviewed.

The purpose of this was to gain greater insights on the consumers’ and retailers’

sustainability-related motivations in the retail industry and whether certain factors

influenced their consumption. For example, I wanted to investigate whether participants

would shop at fast fashion retail stores if they released a sustainable clothing line. During

my re-interviews I would share my screen and show participants big name brands and

fast-fashion store websites that released a sustainable clothing line (please see Appendix

N for the list of re-interview questions and website links). This technique gave me the

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opportunity to see participants’ initial reactions to common brands that were hoping to

target the sustainable consumer.

4.6 Data Analysis and Interpretation

This section outlines the data analysis and interpretation process. The data

collection and analysis followed Green et al’s (2007), standard qualitative analysis

model, see Figure 3 below. The data collection process was described in detail in the

previous chapter. This section will focus on analysis and interpretation.

Using Green et al’s (2007) four step analysis model, the first step conducted, data

immersion, was to immerse myself in the data set by becoming familiar with the data

corpus through repeated reading of transcriptions and re-listening to interview recordings.

The second step, coding, was to examine and organize the information in each interview

and the whole set data using the software platform NVivo. The final step was to produce

categories and themes from the underlying coded passages and compare with relevant

literature. These steps are explained in more detail in this section. Please see Figure 4

below for a depiction of the process from my own data set in relation to Green et al’s

(2007) model.

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 Figure 3: Four Steps of Data Analysis for Qualitative Research
Source: Green, Willis, K., Hughes, E., Small, R., Welch, N., Gibbs, L., & Daly, J. (2007). Generating
best evidence from qualitative research: the role of data analysis. Australian and New Zealand
Journal of Public Health, 31(6), 545–550.

Figure 4: Four Steps of Data Analysis for Qualitative Research Recreated

Source: Created from Green et al (2007) standard qualitative analysis model.

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4.6.1 Step 1 Data Immersion

Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, my interviews took place online through

Microsoft Teams. This provided me with a convenient way to meet participants and

allowed the option for a free automatic transcription service. During the interviews,

Microsoft Teams would start a live transcription which converted the audio into readable

text. This transcription was downloaded into a Microsoft Word document and thoroughly

reviewed while listening to the audio recording. Throughout the transcription process I

found that the automatic transcription service was not very accurate. I used this service as

a base for my transcriptions but re-visited and re-listened to all the interviews to improve

accuracy. I found this to be useful as I gained a deeper understanding of what my

participants said. My data comprised of words with the goal that the text could enhance

understanding of the second-hand phenomenon.

Throughout the transcription process I followed Mergenthaler and Stinson’s

(1992) seven principles for developing transcription: preserve the morphological

naturalness of the transcription, preserve the naturalness of the transcript structure, the

transcript should be an exact reproduction, the transcription rules should be universal, the

transcription rules should be complete, the transcription rules should be independent, and

the transcription rules should be intellectually elegant. Each interview was transcribed in

its entirety to provide a verbatim account of the interview for analysis (Mclellan, 2003).

Pauses, elisions, mispronunciations, slang, grammatical errors, nonverbal sounds (e.g.,

laughs, sighs), and background noises were incorporated to ensure the naturalness of the

conversation was captured.

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 The transcription process was done in parallel with my interviews and academic

literature readings. As such, there was no sequential order in which transcriptions took

place (Spiggle, 1994). As I was transcribing, I would continue to set up more interviews

with participants and continuously read relevant literature. This process helped me to

identify questions that participants were responding to well or questions which I had not

yet thought of. I could then use these findings to inform the interviews that followed.

Transcribing my own interviews kept me organized and increasingly self-aware of

my interview techniques. I paid meticulous attention to detail throughout the transcription

process which helped me to become a better interviewer. By thoroughly writing, re-

viewing, and re-reading transcripts I was able to analyze and critique my speech, become

aware of my silent pauses and interruptions, notice moments of active listening, notice

moments where follow up questions would have been beneficial, consider instances

where I could have been more clear or direct, and observe the tone of my voice. This

helped me improve my interview techniques for the interviews that followed.

In total, 214 pages were transcribed in my first round of interviews, 431 pages in

my second round of interviews, 184 in my third round of interviews and eight photos of

participants’ favorite finds were sent in.

4.6.2 Step 2 Coding

My data set is comprised of words transcribed from interviews and eight photos

of participants’ favorite finds, along with the related academic literature. The data

analysis was completed using the qualitative data analysis software NVivo.

Transcriptions, literature, and photos were uploaded to NVivo which allowed me to

classify, sort, arrange, and examine the data set. Each informant was set up as a ‘case’ in

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NVivo, which not only formed the unit of analysis, but also enabled me to group multiple

sources of data relating to the same entity. Data related to participants included: gender

identity, generational cohort (Millennials or Generation Z), current city of residence, type

of shopper (thrift or vintage), current state of employment, consumer versus retailer

status, and the number of interviews in which the informant participated. As the research

design evolved, I focused more on individuals who preferred ‘thrift’ shopping than

‘vintage’ shopping.

The analysis and interpretation of my qualitative research followed Lester and

colleagues’ (2020) three step process for coding data; (1) assign codes to data, (2) review

codes and assign additional codes within the preassigned codes, (3) formulate explicit

connections to the study’s conceptual and theoretical ideas. To begin, I used a

combination of an inductive and deductive approach to assign codes to my data set

(Linneberg & Korsgaard, 2019). Using deductive coding, I established a small pre-set list

of codes. These codes were based on my research question, literature review, and by

referring to Social Identity Theory and Extended Self-theory. This allowed me to develop

my codebook then read through the data and assign excerpts to my pre-set list of codes.

For example, based on my understanding of consumer motivations from academic

literature, I pre-assigned codes such as Critical, Economic, Fashion and Recreational

(Ferraro et al, 2016). Once a transcript was read, clips of text would be transferred into

one of these codes.

At the same time, codes were developed from my data set based on what

participants were saying, adopting an inductive approach (Linneberg & Korsgaard,

2019). In this manner, I would allow the codes to emerge from the raw data through

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phrases or terms used by the participants. This encouraged a flexible approach to the

analysis in accordance with the needs of the emerging data. For example, participants

were discussing in detail the influence of materials on their purchasing, as such the theme

of materiality was created. Using a combination of both approaches gave me the

opportunity to stay attuned to existing theories while remaining open to surprises in the

data (Linneberg & Korsgaard, 2019). Please see the Figure 5 below for a screen capture

of my coding structure for some themes.

Figure 5: Screen Capture of Coding Structure

Source: Screen capture taken from NVivo

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 After the codes were created, I would review the excerpts of text within the initial

set of codes and assign any additional codes that arose. This allowed me to create

subcodes within codes to better organize participants’ responses. For example,

‘motivation for second-hand consumption’ is a main code, ‘critical motive’ is a subcode,

‘environmental’ and ‘ethical’ motives were subcodes within the subcodes.

4.6.3 Step 3 Creating Categories

Individually, codes do not tell the entire story of the data (Lester et al, 2020).

Rather, the codes were further dissected to understand how they interrelate and react to

each other. Categories of codes were developed that further branched off into multiple

subcodes. This interrelation is represented in the categories of the codes ultimately

producing themes (Lester et al, 2020).

4.6.4 Step 4 Identifying Themes

I used constant comparative methods to group common themes across interviews

(Spiggle, 1994). This enabled me to pull text from a variety of interviews where

participants discussed similar shopping motivations. Additionally, I was able to code

relevant literature in relation to emerging themes. This gave me a clear perspective on

what had been previously written versus what my participants were discussing. I was able

to compare the similarities, differences, and relationships across the categories of codes.

This process was iterative, involving continuous movement between coding participants’

stories and the emerging themes (Spiggle, 1994). This allowed for a more unified

interpretation of my data by encouraging the hermeneutical movement, back and forth,

between the part and the whole (Spiggle, 1994). Through this process I was able to

continuously improve and revise themes when necessary, reflecting a more accurate

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depiction of participants’ responses. In addition, this allowed me to formulate new

questions in the forthcoming interviews that related to prior participant responses.

Seven main themes were identified within my data set that highlight consumer

motivations to purchase second-hand apparel. The themes include critical, economic,

family, fashion, materiality, recreational, and sustainability. These themes will be fully

discussed in Chapter five.

4.7 Conclusion

My research employs an interpretive qualitative research design, within which

hermeneutic phenomenology is used to develop a greater understanding of individual

experiences. Three rounds of phenomenological interviews were conducted with the goal

of identifying motivations across participants’ stories and experiences. Specifically, I

focused on the Millennials and Generation Z age cohort as they are driving demand for

second-hand consumption within Canada (Global Data Thred Up, 2021). The Green et al

(2007) analysis model served as the framework for my data analysis. As this chapter

reveals, data collection consisted of 45 phenomenological interviews which were

meticulously transcribed. Once transcribed, knowledge from academic literature, and

participants’ ideas and experiences were thoroughly reviewed to help me understand the

second-hand phenomenon. The software platform NVivo then assisted in the coding and

organizing of my data. Finally, the production of categories of codes and themes

highlighted important patterns and relations in the data set. Through the data analysis

process, I was able to acquire deep, comprehensive, and thorough insights into my data,

helping me gain overall insights into my research question. The next chapter outlines my

findings.

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CHAPTER 5 – FINDINGS

In this chapter I will discuss the key findings from my research. I am shifting

from an emic perspective to an etic perspective. The emic perspective invokes

participants’ perspective on how they see the world. The etic perspective is an approach

focusing on the observable behaviors and practices of participants (Beal et al, 2020). In

this section I will be translating the codes grounded in my participants’ language into the

theoretical constructs from academic literature aiming to understand their significance.

My research seeks further understanding of consumer consumption habits and influences

as they relate to the purchase of secondhand clothing. Recall the specific research

questions:

(1) Identify any new or recurring motivations in second-hand shoppers

(2) Discuss the importance of consumer motivations with regards to marketing

(3) Highlight the significance of sustainability within marketing and second-hand

consumption

(4) Examine any changes in motivations due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

In this chapter, I will discuss the motivations found among consumers when purchasing

second-hand clothing. I will elaborate on specific motivations in relation to theories and

identify any new or reoccurring themes. Next, I will discuss the retailer’s perspective

identifying their motivations and their perceptions of consumers. Further, I will highlight

the importance of sustainability within marketing and second-hand consumption. Lastly, I

will examine and describe any changes in motivations due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

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5.1 Consumer Motivations

Recall that motivation refers to the impetus that gives purpose or direction to

behavior and operates in humans at a conscious or unconscious level. My research

focuses on personal, social, or secondary motives, such as affiliation, competition, and

individual interests and goals (American Psychology Association, 2023). Consistent with

previous researchers, such as Ferraro et al (2016), my findings will be discussed in terms

of the distinct motivational themes of focus: Critical, Economic, Fashion, and

Recreational. For this study, three additional motivations were observed: Family,

Materials, and Sustainability (please see Appendix O for graphic on findings). These

themes have seldom been presented in the literature as main motivational factors. My

results present these three additional themes as main motivators in alignment with my

participants’ responses. Below, the motivational themes are elaborated in-depth and

exemplified with quotations from participant interviews. It is important to note that the

motivations are non-exclusive, meaning several motivations may have come up in one

interview.

5.1.1 Critical Motives

The first motivational theme, critical, refers to consumers who disassociate from

the mainstream market for moral or ethical reasons, including distance from the system

(i.e., buying second-hand goods distances one from the distaste of consumer society) and

ethics and ecology (i.e., recycling, fighting against waste) (Ferraro et al, 2016). Aligned

with Guiot and Roux (2010) and Pierce and Paulos (2011), the critical motivational

theme was separated into subcategories of environmental and ethical. The environmental

motive is driven by responsible interactions with the environment. While the ethical

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motive involves fashion that aims to reduce the negative impact on people, animals, and

the planet, involving design, labour, and materials.

One of my participants, Josie, provides us with an example of disassociating with

mainstream fashion due to her environmental concerns.

Um, to me second-hand shopping is a way of being able to switch up your look

and your wardrobe without adding any additional stress to the environmental
issues that we are facing today and without adding anything to the waste stream.
So, by being able to thrift shop and remove something that would otherwise be
going into the waste stream and then put it to good use is really important to me
because I try to lower my environmental footprint in any way possible. Like I
have a big pile of stuff it’s on Bunz [an online trading platform] but if no one
takes it, it will go to the thrift store kind of thing. And when something does go to
the thrift store, I forget the statistic but it’s something like a lot of the times it just
ends up in the landfill because the thrift stores just have too much stuff and like
they put up notifications that it has to go to the landfill anyways.
- Josie (Generation Z)

Josie describes second-hand shopping as a way to limit the negative effects of her

consumption on the environment, by reducing additional waste. It is noticeable that she

possesses knowledge on the clothing lifecycle process. Josie makes a conscious effort

when purchasing to disassociate from mainstream fashion as she is aware of its harmful

effects.

Similarly, Xema describes her environmental concerns with the fast-fashion

industry and its negative environmental affects throughout the clothing lifecycle process.

I think my understanding of fast fashion is that it does have a really big carbon
footprint and, you know, it really caters [to] consumerism and getting people to
buy clothes, the latest trends, and whatnot. So just in manufacturing all of those
clothing items, maybe there is a lot of impact in in terms of, like I said, their
carbon footprint.
- Xema (Millennial)

Both Josie and Xema sought to reduce the negative environmental impact of their

clothing purchases. Seeking positive environmental habits through clothing purchases

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proves to be an important factor when deciding what to buy. My participants seemed to

feel personally obligated to reduce their environmental impacts.

Further, my participants showcased their need to purchase clothing products that

are made ethically, in terms of design, labour, and materials, according to their morals,

principles, and values. Participants emphasized positive ethics in association with

purchasing second-hand products. Nicole, Lola, and Janice are prime examples.

So I think there's a few reasons, I would say some of it is the idea of growing
people who are considering the impact that they have by their actions on the
world and people around them. Uhm, so sort of that environmental factor, but also
the who's making your clothing. What're you influencing all, all the garbage
clothing that gets sent off to other countries. Kind of the bigger impact of what we
have. Uhm, and the idea of you don't need lots of stuff, you don't need brand new
stuff. It's nice to sometimes have something particular special, and so you know
we have the means to do that so we can get a particular special thing
- Nicole (Millennial)

And another part of it is the environmental factor understanding the fast fashion
industry and how damaging it is to the planet and to the systems, how it's
produced. That's something that I don't personally want to be a part of. I find it
kind of goes against morally what I stand for. Um. So I look to not partake in that
as much as I can.
- Lola (Generation Z)

My my biggest reason for thrift shopping today is because I disagree with the
ethical implications of fast fashion. Uhm, I'm like much more comfortable buying
second hand and it's really cost effective for me. But yeah, well, my biggest thing
is like if I can buy what I'm looking for outside of fast fashion I will and I'll resort
to fast fashion if I I'm really looking for a particular piece that I haven't been able
to find in thrift stores. I feel more comfortable with like my. Uh, what's the word?
Uhm. Not morals, but like my I guess yeah my values because it's like it almost
feels like. I don't know like I'm, I'm a vegan because I'm against the animal
cruelty in like that industry, right? In the in the animal agriculture industry so.
Because [of] my principles. That's the word I was looking for. So, so when I like
shopping fast fashion, I feel like I'm betraying my principles. Uhm, or it's like a
cognitive dissonance. It's like, okay, I know this is unethically sourced and I'm
choosing to buy it because what, because I can't find it and thrift stores like that's
kind of the what I mean. Like almost a guilt. Maybe a guilt is a better word. I feel
guilty shopping at fast fashion.
- Janice (Generation Z)

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Nicole, Lola, and Janice all discuss why others should not purchase fast-fashion; they

elaborate on their ethical concerns that are rising within the current fashion industry.

Each of these participants are strong advocates for second-hand apparel shopping. Nicole

describes why small steps in purchasing can create a bigger picture in positive change.

She highlights why ethical labour practices are important to consider when purchasing

clothing items and how she is mindful of the entire process a garment undergoes. Further,

my data also highlights multiple areas of ethical concerns regarding the manufacturing

process with regards to employees’ rights and a broader concern regarding the

consumption and production of food. Lola and Janice both discuss their environmental

values and ethical concerns within a variety of lifestyle areas. Lola focuses labour

practices while Janice incorporates her ethical principles by practicing veganism.

Sadie is another participant who gives us an example of her ethical concerns

regarding labour practices.

When it comes to ethical choices of consumerism, and definitely the ties of child
labor and prison labor. No, I I was just going to say and I know of course like fast
the fast fashion component of it would be maybe more like replicating certain
trends. I guess at a cheaper cost. And of course that would come with I think the
exploitation and mistreatment again of of the workers themselves.
- Sadie (Millennial)

Sadie describes fast-fashion as the leading industry which exploits workers to mass-

produce inexpensive clothing items. Her need to shop second-hand derives from her

concerns about ethical labour practices. Similarly other participants have presented their

discontent for fast-fashion due to the ethical dilemma concerning the injustice for

workers.

Evidently, participants are expressing concerns both environmentally and

ethically and are seeking to reduce their environmental impact by reducing the production

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of goods. Participants seek a sense of accomplishment and emotional gain by avoiding

mainstream fashion outlets and purchasing clothing from second-hand retailers.

5.1.2 Economic Motives

The second motivational theme, economic, is driven by price sensitivity or price

consciousness and includes the gratifying role of price, the search for a fair price and

bargain hunting (Guiot and Roux, 2010). The dimensions of price were represented in the

data in an interesting manner; (1) participants began to consume second-hand products

out of financial necessity (2) second-hand consumption was not necessarily viewed

negatively for people of low economic status but instead a gratifying experience that all

can enjoy. Xema, Willa, Lola, and Penelope describe their introduction to second-hand

consumption due to their limited financial resources.

I can't remember a time when I wasn't […], so uhm growing up my my parents

immigrated here so. Through shopping, thrift was kind of a way that we could
shop and you know afford to to get new things come and we would always go to
flea markets.
- Xema (Millennial)

My probably started purchasing thrift thrifting things in college, and it originally

started with like thrifting furniture. Um, I mean, everyone is like a broke college
student, so it's nice to find furniture and refinish it in ways that you kind of
appreciate in value.
- Willa (Millennial)

Economically, that was a big factor for me and my family was that I was able to
get to my new clothes to expand my wardrobe without having to spend a lot.
- Lola (Generation Z)

Yeah, so definitely like growing up, it started just because it was cheaper, like if I
wanted to buy clothes, even [when] I was just a teenager, I had to spend my own
money. So only having a part time job and wanting to save for other stuff, it was
like you can get more for less than usual.
- Penelope (Generation Z)

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It is through these participants we see the economic necessity which draws them to

purchase second-hand products. Xema and Lola describe their introduction to second-

hand shopping because of limited family income; as such, second-hand shopping was

something introduced to them at a young age. Willa and Penelope describe their

introduction to second-hand shopping due to their financial positions as they became

more independent. The retail industry has previously seen shame and stigma attached to

second-hand consumption (Ferrero et al, 2016; Palmer et al, 2005; Kim et al, 2021;

Herjanto et al, 2016), we see the de-stigmatization through these participants who show

openness and acceptance toward purchasing second-hand products.

Participants have normalized purchasing second-hand products because it is an

affordable method of consumption and continue to purchase as they become older.

Although second-hand shopping began out of necessity, these participants did not show

signs of stopping regardless of their financial position. As outlined by other participants,

the economic benefits play a gratifying role when searching for a fair price and good

bargain. Otis and Charlotte give us examples.

Ah, I mean, the original motivation was probably financial, financially driven, so
just. To save money. I think the ability to get more for less, so to be able to go and
get three or four T shirts for the same price as one would cost at a regular store
that was probably part of my initial motivation.
- Otis (Generation Z)

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 Like I remember planning on going to a ball. With my husband, like on a, what do
you call the New Year's Eve party, and I was thinking okay, what kind of dress to
get and at Hudson Bay, whatever dresses I liked was costing like four hundred,
five hundred dollars. You know, it's like for one night. Uhm, but then in Value
Village I ended up finding a pretty nice short dress which was I think it costs me
together with accessories and everything and I think it was seventy dollars which
was like, you know, that would that was fine with me for one night like five
hundred dollars was not and I knew that that was the only night I was gonna wear
it. Because like in my when I go to invitations in my community that's not an
appropriate dress so I could not find a second. Uhm. Reason to wear it again.
- Charlotte (Millennial)

Otis and Charlotte both describe instances where spending less on an item was more

satisfying than purchasing an item for full price. Although both participants alluded to the

fact that they could purchase something more expensive, the search for a good deal gave

them a greater sense of satisfaction. Charlotte logically explains her need not to spend

more on an item that will only be worn once. Otis explains his reasoning for acquiring

multiple items for less. Outlined by my participants, second-hand shopping eased their

financial pressures without depriving them of quality clothing items.

My participant Josie describes an example of finding two comparable items and

her joy in the item that cost less.

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 Figure 6: Josie’s Favorite Find
Image Supplied by Josie (Generation Z)

Still my favorite find, I still wear them every single day. I since got another pair
of Nike SB’s that I got on Ebay from like 2006 that somebody, like I spend two
hundred dollars on them, and somebody sent them, so it was still second-hand.
But it was just like I bid them, and they are still not, like I still don’t like them as
much as like my original pair that I found at the garage sale for five dollars. And I
spent like over two hundred on my second pair but like this pair is still the best
like comfortable shoes. I get compliments everywhere I go and like skaters who
are like really good would be like ‘oh my god where did you find those are so like
exclusive’. And I’m like ‘garage sale’. And like, like you said it’s so satisfying to
say that they are like garage sale because those are worth over eight hundred
dollars and I found them for five dollars.
- Josie (Generation Z)

Josie explains her satisfaction in finding an item of significant value for a lower cost.

Seen in the picture above, Josie’s Nike SB sneakers are her favorite item because of their

quality and her thrill in searching for an item of low cost.

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 Evidently, my participants value the financial incentive that shopping second-

hand provides. As seen in responses, my participants highlight two main economic

motivations, purchasing second-hand products out of necessity and purchasing second-

hand products for a gratifying experience. Regardless of the underlying reason, second-

hand shopping offers consumers incredibly affordable prices versus retail counterparts.

My results highlight the importance of economic benefits to my participants and their

desire to find a bargain.

5.1.3 Fashion Motives

The third motivational theme is driven by fashion, especially in styles of dress and

ornament or manners of behavior (Ferraro et al, 2016). To better represent this

motivational theme, fashion was divided into two subcategories: (1) In-store fashion

which describes participants’ fashion motivations in relation to what they consume or

search for in-store including: brand name, convenience of purchase, minimalistic

purchases, and variety of clothing; and (2) On-person fashion which describes

participants’ fashion motivations in relation to what they physically put on their body

including: uniqueness, trend, minimalistic, comfort, and authenticity. Accordingly,

fashion in the context of this research is the degree to which shoppers seek out items to

suit their style needs and believe second-hand clothing products are fashionable.

Academic literature provides an extensive understanding on consumer fashion choices

(Ferrero et al, 2016; Gurova and Morozova, 2018; Buehler, 2010; Cervellon et al, 2012;

Betti and Jahandad, 2016; Lynn and Harris, 1997), my research confirms and extends the

reoccurring theme of fashion.

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 Participants discussed seeking out brand name pieces to fulfill their desire to be

fashionable. Sadie and Daniel describe brands they are drawn to within second-hand

stores.

In terms of like a very good find that I was happy with, it is something that is
brand name, but I found a pair of yeah, just like black, they're the shorts that I
ended up cutting the Levi's Men’s pants and they were eight dollars. Which
suddenly, if you find Levi’s shorts, because if you find shorts today it could be
like seventy bucks for like women shorts. And another article, this is random, but
it's the exact same I found like a Levis Men’s oversized Jean jacket and Jean
jackets I find are quite difficult to find like that. Perfect oversized one and this
599. Now it's oversized. It's got like the Levis tag anyway, so again, it's like, yeah,
sometimes I do look for like specific brands. I think that Levis is becoming more
vintage, and I think that's kind of cool.
- Sadie (Millennial)

Oh, for sure. Sometimes I'll go to the thrift store just looking for like a Nike piece,
maybe Adidas, something a little more vintage. I found a few vintage Nike like
sweaters, I guess.
- Daniel (Generation Z)

Sadie and Daniel seek brand name second-hand pieces in-store that they deem are

fashionable. Interestingly, Sadie anticipates that her Levi’s jacket found at a second-hand

store will become a trend. Although she shops second-hand for clothing that usually

originates from a previous era, she predicts what pieces might come back in style and be

considered fashionable in the foreseeable future. It can be inferred that both participants

want to display a particular image by only choosing brand name items and potentially

becoming trendsetters. Sadie discusses the brand Levi’s as a particular style of brand that

suits her style. Daniel discusses brands such as Nike and Adidas that reflect his style.

Interestingly, both participants are not searching for the latest pieces from these brands

that could be purchased at a retail store, but rather ‘vintage’ or ‘outdated’ pieces. Second-

hand outlets appeal to these consumers as they are able to display a particular image

associated with older brand name items while standing out from others. Reflecting on

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Tajfel’s (1978) Social Identity Theory, participants search to find particular brands that

indicate their distinctiveness as members of a particular in-group or out-group. Social

identities are aspects of the self-concept deriving from social categories, roles, or groups

to which an individual perceives themself as belonging (Tajfel, 1978). Individuals can

choose their outfits based on conformity (in-group) and/or differentiation behaviours

(out-group). My participants display their need to search for brands as a way to

distinguish themselves as part of a particular community or group. Evidently, the

motivational theme of fashion can be determined from what participants choose to

consume when shopping in-store, specifically focusing on brands they choose.

Further, the motivational theme of fashion was associated in participants’

responses to convenience for in-store fashion. The theme of convenience was noted

throughout a lot of participants responses. Participants describe their willingness to

purchase second-hand apparel due to the increased ease in accessibility. Dependent upon

the location of the store, participants style habits will change, Faith and Zion are prime

examples.

It's just much more convenient now. I don't think so. Being closer to a thrift store
is probably the only change uh me and my spending habits. Uh, I used to live
close to a fashion fast fashion street in Montreal and so I would be much closer to
companies that just sell clothing instead of a thrift store. But now that I've
changed areas to live in, I think that's the only change I I used to not shop like a
like I said I only shop maybe once or twice a year. Uhm, and that hasn't changed.
That was what I did in high school. That's what I did in my undergrad, and that's
the same thing that I do now. When I realize I've changed sizes and my clothing
doesn't feel comfortable to me anymore or is itchy or I just don't enjoy looking at
it anymore. Then I will switch it up and that you will usually only happens once
or twice a year.
- Faith (Millennial)

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 I live in like rural Ontario, right? So we don't have lots of thrift stores, so it's like
my opportunity to thrift has grown throughout the years. As I've gained access to
like having my own access to a car. Or, uh, moving to Europe was actually a big
one because that, like, public transportation so easy over there, so you'd
constantly be able to thrift and you'd go be able to go to these locations.
- Zion (Generation Z)

Both participants stress the importance of convenience when shopping. In the context of

my research convenience refers to little effort or difficulty when shopping within second-

hand stores or locating second-hand stores. Due to the convenience of finding second-

hand stores participants are able to maintain their second-hand fashion style. Depending

upon participants’ location their ability to purchase second-hand items has increased. We

deduce, for these informants, if they did not live close to a second-hand store their

spending on second-hand clothing items would decrease.

Further, participants describe their willingness to shop second-hand due to the

large variety of clothing second-hand stores provide. The variety of in-store clothing

purchases second-hand shopping provides gave my participants the choice to determine

their style and a greater selection of clothing sizes. Second-hand shopping has provided

participants with a convenient way to purchase a variety of different clothing items.

Particularly, Nicole elaborates on her preference to shop second-hand as the likelihood of

finding something she likes is greater.

Uh, and the variety that's available at thrift, so not necessarily the like uniqueness
of style or whatever but that there's so many different colors, patterns, themes,
sizing methods, right. If I go to the Gap, everything is sized one way, so once
your size doesn't fit, they all don't fit and I have to go to another store, whereas if
I go to the thrift with her then we can look through all sorts of things. And if this
kind of thing doesn't fit immediately the next year over it will fit a different way. I
know it's from the different store. I can get a sense of lots of different stores. The
way they fit all at once in one place. I think that's the main kind of thing. It's like
it's like having all the different stores of the whole city all mixed into one place.
- Nicole (Millennial)

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Nicole discusses the variety benefits that second-hand stores provide that enable her to

maintain her fashion needs and the range of sizing options that allows her to be inclusive

in fashion trends. Several participants emphasized the variety of clothing found in

second-hand stores. My participants discuss the full range of clothing items from shirts,

shoes, pants, jackets and more. Participants note that regardless of style choice multiple

clothing pieces are offered and can be found at second-hand outlets. The convenience of

shopping in one store eliminates any additional shopping that might take place and has

given my participants the opportunity to maintain their fashion needs.

Additionally, participants describe their in-person fashion motivations through

minimalistic purchases. Within the context of my research, minimalistic fashion describes

consumers’ purchasing behaviour to reduce consumption and focus more on what makes

them happy (Pater, 2022). My participants showcased their want to purchase fewer

garments to limit their environmental impact and be represented as a minimalist, a person

who exists with few possessions (Urban Dictionary, 2023). My participants revealed their

desires to purchase a wardrobe that leaves them only with items that provide them with

real value and joy. As such, participants were purchasing second-hand clothing as it gave

them the opportunity to consume sustainable second-hand products while satisfying their

style needs. As mentioned, the motivational theme of fashion is driven by styles of dress

and ornament or manners of behavior. Behaviorally my participants’ responses highlight

social conduct to reduce consumption and focus on what makes them happy. In these

cases, second-hand shopping provides an outlet to eliminate waste and prolong the life

cycle of clothing pieces. Xema and Otis explain.

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 Find find things that I like that that orient's uhm, you know, I guess because it's
already been made and someone else has already used it so Yeah, I would say that
there's there's less of an impact. It, uh, yeah, I guess it just makes me feel good.
Right, because I think you know, like with in this day and age like people have so
much stuff, there's just so much stuff around, right. And even I find myself I like
after two months I have so much things that that. I really try. I try to not.
- Xema (Millennial)

Like I find that it's it's pretty rare for me that I'll actually go and purchase
something new, and it only the times when I do. It's something that I. It's essential
for me, so I find purchasing less new means that I have to do, like get rid of
clothes less often 'cause I'm not in that fast fashion cycle so when I do, if I
cleaned out my closet or whatever and I have stuff that I want to get rid of, there's
a couple of things.
- Otis (Generation Z)

My participants feel personally accountable to eliminate waste and practice sustainable

behaviours. Xema and Otis outline the positive impact they feel when purchasing second-

hand clothing items as they are prolonging the life of an item rather than acquiring more

unnecessary goods. The combination of searching for second-hand items, reducing waste,

and helping the planet grants participants a feeling of happiness.

Motivational themes associated with in-store fashion were consistently found

across many participants’ responses. In-store fashion such as brand name, convenience of

purchase, variety of clothing, and minimalistic purchasing have been important elements

that my participants consider when looking for a store or purchasing an item. These

elements provide participants with the opportunity to keep up with their style and the

fashion trends.

As mentioned, the motivational theme of fashion was divided into two categories,

in-store fashion and on-person fashion. In addition to in-person fashion motives,

participants revealed their fashion motivations on-person. On-person fashion describes

participants’ fashion motivations in relation to what my participants physically put on

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their body including: uniqueness, trend, minimalistic, comfort, and authenticity.

Authenticity was a common motivation where participants desired to be true to their own

personality, self-expression, values, and spirit, regardless of societal pressure. Ava and

Gerald describe authenticity as a motivator.

And that's kind of where a lot of my like what I wanted most, what I wanted to get
out of is like I want something that fits me like all my personality on like that
would represent me or like kind of like my personality, but in clothing like, you
know, so it was kind of like it was talking for me without me.
- Ava (Generation Z)

That's what I like about clothes like. I don't really care what other people wear as
long as. I think they're like with friends. I'm like I like to see them try new things
and and figure things that they like and be able to say like, okay, you walk out and
you feel good because you're like this is who I am. This represents me. If I saw
picture myself, that's another thing. Like doing photography. I look back at
pictures of like my parents and like stuff from years ago like family photos and
I'm like I love what they're all wearing. They all seem very much themselves and
like that's how I want to be able to look back at pictures like see pictures of
myself and be like yeah, I remember wearing that outfit that day and I loved it.
Uhm. So it's kind of how I feel about people wearing clothes that they like.
- Gerald (Generation Z)

As seen in both responses, Ava and Gerald discuss fashion as a means of dressing how

you want and presenting your aesthetic in the way you see fit. Interestingly, Ava believes

that her clothing implicitly speaks to who she is as a person and is clearly conveyed to

those who see it. Gerald not only discusses authenticity in his own clothing choices but

describes his view of authenticity in others. As seen in Belk’s (1988) Theory of the

Extended Self, objects (such as clothing) have played a significant role in creating,

supporting, and advertising our identities/identity to others. Belk suggests that knowingly

or unknowingly, intentionally or unintentionally, we regard our possessions as parts of

ourselves (Belk, 1988). My participants confirm this theory as they believe and carefully

choose pieces of clothing that represent their authentic self.

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 Ursula describes her personal style and how it is easily recognizable by others.

Figure 7: Ursula’s Favorite Jacket

Image supplied by Ursula (Millennial)

I was with my friend who I said, like, that's kind of like our relationship is
thrifting together. And she pointed to that and she was just like, this is like, so
you. This is perfect. And I don't know. I just like, found it and it was really good
price. And I, every time I wear it, like someone says something like to the tune of
like that really suits you.
- Ursula (Millennial)

In the picture above, Ursula is dressed in the jacket that she considers a representation of

her authentic self. This jacket was hand-picked for her by a friend and reflects Ursula’s

personality and character through the jacket’s design, colors, and style. Clothing pieces

can be combined and worn in ways which reveal parts of our identity to others. Not only

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does Ursula believe this jacket is an extension of her identity but her friends believe so as

well.

In addition, many participants revealed their motivation to acquire and display

material possessions for the purpose of feeling differentiated from other people. The

theme of uniqueness was a strong motivator to purchase second-hand clothing items as

my participants believed that shopping second-hand could make you stand out in

comparison to those who purchase clothing items from a retail outlet. Rufus is a prime

example and identifies uniqueness as his main motivation for shopping second-hand.

I like the aspect of like, standing out and being different.

- Rufus (Millennial)

Short and sweet, Rufus describes his need to be different from an average person walking

down the street. Second-hand consumption provides Rufus the opportunity to purchase

clothing that is not mass produced, rather composed of clothing items worn throughout

different eras. This was a common theme seen amongst participants as many revealed

their desire to be different from others.

Similarly, Yvonne elaborates on why uniqueness is an important factor when

purchasing clothing.

Um that kind of thing is super important to me. Another big thing is like I have a
very eclectic style and I can’t find a lot of fun pieces in places like H&M or Zara.
So, like second-hand shopping whether that’s thrifting or vintage shopping.
Allows you to find really cool pieces.
- Yvonne (Generation Z)

Yvonne points out that purchasing second-hand clothing enables her to differentiate from

mainstream fashion. She chose to shop second-hand as it allows her to fulfil her style

needs while differentiating from the rest.

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 Gerald points out that he wants to be unique but is lenient if someone possess the

same rare piece that he has.

I don't like when people [have] the same stuff as me. I'm like see I don’t mind it,
as long as it's like we're kind of talking about it, something more unique. It's not
just that straight out of the H&M T shirt. Right, But if you know my best friends
only pulled up or someone else I saw had that Cairo shirt, I would go up and
talked about it like it's a conversation starter too.
- Gerald (Generation Z)

Not only does Gerald highlight his unique style of fashion that second-hand consumption

gives him but also the community that it provides. Gerald gives us another example of a

specific article of clothing he found and deemed to be a unique piece. He describes how

he acquired his favorite find.

I lived in Jasper in Alberta for a summer. And they had this like clothing drive
going on where they were just selling. I mean actually tons of stuff like there was.
It was like a garage sale basically and it worked as like hey whatever you want
and. Uhm. Like you can just take whatever you want. So like you could find
something and pay a dollar for it. You pay one hundred dollars. There's just like
donation based and I found this really cool purple, turquoise and red ski jacket.
- Gerald (Generation Z)

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 Figure 8: Gerald’s Jacket
Image supplied by Gerald (Generation Z)

Gerald does not want to be deemed a consumer of mainstream fashion, in other words,

fashion that we would see day-to-day but rather Gerald holds strong beliefs that second-

hand consumption enables him to distinguish himself from the multitude of other

consumers. Gerald’s jacket is bright in color and retro in style, showcasing his unique

sense of fashion. My participants showcased their uniqueness in a variety of different

forms. Notably, creativity played a role in my participants need to be unique as many felt

the need to differentiate themselves from mainstream fashion. This was also seen

throughout participant responses by mix and matching second-hand items, choosing bold

colors, and making bold statements. Participants identified their own personal creativity

within the second-hand styles they chose to wear.

In addition, a few of my participants also revealed their motivation to find pieces

of second-hand clothing for their style and manners of comfort. Comfort was an

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alternative fashion theme seen throughout my participants’ responses as some

participants were more interested in a comfortable fashion style rather than a unique one.

Some opted for comfort and found that second-hand stores provided a range of clothing

items that were comfortable. Harold discusses his fashion motives for finding

comfortable clothing.

Extremely casual or comfortable right now. I want it to be like really like. Out
there, kind of I'd say, a kind of like all out. That's my cool. But right now, it's just
like a plain shirt, some shorts or like, I don't like to wear jeans much, probably
just like sweatpants a lot.
- Harold (Generation Z)

Harold was one of my participants whose style was reflected in oversized pieces. As

mentioned, Harold chooses items like sweatpants as they offer a comfortable feel. Harold

prioritized dressing in way that makes him feel at ease.

Further, my participants’ fashion style was determined based on current trends.

The theme of trend was noticed throughout responses as many participants viewed

second-hand consumption as a new trend that their peers were participating in. As such,

participants wanted to follow the latest fashion trend and purchase clothing items in

accordance with their friends. Brittney is a prime example as she discusses why she

started to purchase second-hand clothing items.

Um I would say it's kind of a mix of both, like I would say, in first year around
that time, like maybe even grade twelve it was really becoming like a trend, you
know, within our generation within our age group to be going to thrift stores. And
that's when I was like, oh, okay, cool, that sounds fun. And then you go there, and
um you start seeing your friends wearing like, different clothing, and you're like,
oh, that's like, you know, the retail stores are selling one thing, but my friends are
wearing all this other stuff that you can only really get at thrift stores because it's
like, the older generation and at retail stores. You see, they pick up after that, but I
would say that first general. Um it just became like the trendy thing to wear.
- Brittney (Generation Z)

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Brittney explains her introduction to second-hand clothing consumption as something

that was trendy, which others around her were doing as well. It is inferred that Brittney

wanted to conform to the latest trend in order to fit in with her peers. Although, seen in

Brittney’s response she took a liking to second-hand consumption as it offered her a

unique outlet to represent her fashion.

Audrey is another participant who discusses her initial introduction to shopping

second-hand through her peers. Audrey, in specific, followed the social media trend of

second-hand consumption.

I think that a lot of Gen Z, is honestly it's, what becomes popular as a lot of
Internet trends. So, I feel like one person does it, it spreads and then everyone
wants to do it as well. Oh, uh. So, I think that that has a big impact on it is like
social media presence. Within that kind of age group is, well, um. And I think that
like when one person does it, everyone wants to do it like as trends happen, 'cause
they wanna be like cool like their friends and things like that. But I'm glad that
this trend of thrifting is because it's helping the environment and it's a much better
way to shop in my opinion.
- Audrey (Generation Z)

As seen in Audrey’s response, second-hand consumption is continuing to grow in

popularity and is actively trending on the internet. Audrey interestingly points out that

second-hand consumption is becoming a trend that many follow to fit in. Audrey does not

necessarily have a particular style when shopping second-hand but rather wants to wear

what her friends are wearing. Being on trend does not seem like Audrey’s main

motivation but rather an additional benefit on top of the environmental benefits that

second-hand shopping provides.

Notably, fashion provides an outlet for participants to express themselves.

Through second-hand styles of clothing participants were able to define and

communicate their social identities to others, purchase apparel that makes them happy,

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and practice sustainable behaviours from in-store and on-person fashion. My results on

the motivational theme of fashion extends current literature providing additional detail on

consumers’ desires in styles of dress and ornament or manners of behaviour.

5.1.4 Recreation Motives

The fourth motivational theme, recreational, are motives which include visual

stimulation and excitement due to the plethora of goods, treasure hunting, authenticity,

social interaction, and nostalgic pleasure (Belk et al., 1988; Guiot and Roux, 2010).

Extending this idea, the dimensions of recreation were represented in my data in an

interesting manner: (1) personal meaning, participants gave personal meaning to items

through the past, present, and future; and (2) the search, participants are driven by the

thrill of the hunt, of finding unexpected products amongst others.

For many of my participants, buying pre-owned fashion was a way to connect to

the past and a different time period. As such, my participants showcased feelings of

closeness and affection to their clothing providing examples of their own personal

meanings within the garment they purchased. Specifically, my participants Yvonne and

Ursula describe their motivations to purchase second-hand clothing as it reflects the past,

bringing it to life in present day.

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 Yeah. In terms of interest I really think like, I loved movies as a kid and I loved
the nineties and the seventies and the eighties, and I was very envious of the life
that like my parents were able to live. My parents were very much like your
nineties grunge hippies living in Vancouver, so I just thought that was really cool.
Um, so as I got older and I saw those movies like Dirty Dancing and just like
things like Clueless, I got really inspired by their clothing, but I realized I couldn’t
find any of that in a lot of like high street stores like your regular mall stores. So I
kind of start to look for more interesting pieces and also my mom as I got older I
got a lot of hammy downs that she’s like, I wore this in the eighties and like that
made sense to me and it wasn’t just like, oh ‘my mom wore this dress’. It was like
that association with the time period that kind of sparked my love for finding
pieces from a different time.
- Yvonne (Generation Z)

I think some of it might be like nostalgia, like it's just sort of fun and you're like
looking back and you see like movies like I'm really into a lot of like like early
two thousands, like the nineties movies and stuff like that. And I just like the
fashion. I also find some of that fashion fits me better and looks better on me in
certain ways. Like I know, like for everyone, high waisted stuff has been back in
style like a lot of like looks like that, and I like a lot of like high necklines and all
that. Like, I just really liked that, and I found it wasn't necessarily what I was
seeing. And like, maybe more modern stores, it is more now because I think as
soon as something becomes popular, like the vintage thrift world it, that it then
does become popular in fast fashion. So you have a little bit of overlap there.
Yeah, I'm not sure. I guess it's just like also looking a little bit different than how
everyone maybe is dressing now. I just enjoy that when someone like will point
out a picture and be like, That's how you dress. And it's like, maybe you picked
for someone from like a different era. I don't know. I just like that.
- Ursula (Millennial)

Each individual displays feelings of nostalgia as they describe valuable memories of

watching movies in a particular era and reminiscence on past life. Second-hand products

allowed Yvonne and Ursula to essentially time-travel, revisiting old memories. In a

forward-facing fashion industry, my participants draw inspiration out of past decades to

possess pieces with emotional significance. As they both describe, inspiration is drawn

from timeless pieces they have seen in movies, shows, or through family influences.

Interestingly, my participant Henry describes the trend of matching pieces from

different decades to create a completely new and innovative look.

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 But then the second reason that I would thrift is because of the generational, trend
of mixed matching different styles throughout decades, this is probably high level,
or maybe maybe I'm not making too much sense, but the way that you can kind of
handpick different styles from different decades and then like, combine it, I think
is really interesting because I've noticed, you know, just walking around campus,
Gen Z is very dressed in different ways. You know, there's. Not so much of a
genre, I feel like maybe you look at the eighties, you're seeing a lot of jeans and
white T-shirts, maybe I'm just pulling from Grease, but yeah, I'm I've definitely
noticed that there's just a wide range of styles. And I think that's very interesting. I
also think that's, by, by, thanks of thrifting.
- Henry (Generation Z)

Although personal meaning is not Henry’s main motivator, he notices the shift in

consumer behaviour as more people are beginning to style throughout the decades. I think

it is important to recognize the cyclicality of second-hand products and the notable

feelings of nostalgia it provides consumers.

Further, my participants also attached personal meaning to products in the present

by describing feelings of sentiment. In this case, participants have no direct ties to

previous eras but instead hold a personal memory with a garment. Emotional value

towards a second-hand product arose from the person that gave the item to the

participant, what happened to my participants while wearing the piece, how the piece

speaks to who they are, and several other situations. Particularly, Daniel describes his

clothing as having personality. He mentions the emotional connection he has to his

clothing in the present day as it holds sentimental value.

I feel like they have like a little personal touch. They have like a little bit of my
personality in them, so they I feel a little more of a connection towards them. So if
I was like, if I outgrew them, I'd probably not like, throw them out. I'd probably
keep them late for sentimental value. But I just like bought from a retail store, I'd
probably just choose to donate it, but if I had like thrifted it and then had edited it
I'd choose to keep it even if it didn't fit anymore.
- Daniel (Generation Z)

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Daniel describes his clothing as a representation of himself, interestingly he notes the

personality his pieces hold and the deeper connection it provides. My participants

attached emotional connection to their garments that held a personal memory or

connection. Other participants provided examples such as a hand-knit sweater from a

grandparent and a boyfriend’s sweater, as garments that held sentimental value. These

items were important to my participants as they displayed positive emotions and

connections of a prior time or special person. Similarly, to academic literature,

motivations based on emotional attachment were addressed, signs of emotional

connection with apparel items served as an exemplifier of personality to second-hand

consumers (Belk, 1988; Ahuvia, 2005). As my participants wore or thought about these

apparel items they reflected on their memories and displayed feelings of happiness and

joy. Notably, items with an emotional connection become harder to throw away as

individuals hold great value and attachment. Second-hand shopping gives Daniel the

opportunity to purchase products that reflect himself, his personality, and hold

sentimental value. Daniel notes that clothing becomes harder to throw away because of

this aspect.

Lastly, personal meaning is also noted by participants in reference to the future

and what is to come. Participants discuss how purchasing second-hand products in

present day can be kept and save as a token or memory for the future. Brittney gives us

an example.

I can't believe somebody ever gave this up. I was it's funny you asked because
like, yesterday, two days ago or something, I was wearing this skirt and I was
like, I literally can't believe somebody looked at this and didn't want it. Like, I
love that skirt so much. Like, I'm keeping this until like my kids. My kids can
wear it. I was like, this is a timeless piece. Never like gonna go out of style.
- Brittney (Genration Z)

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In her response, Brittney looks for second-hand products that can be kept and saved for

her future children. This mindset increases the attractiveness of the products Brittney

searches for as she attaches meanings to her purchases and visualizes future generations

enjoying them. She thinks of these products as keepsakes, a relic throughout time, that

brings forth continuous sentimental meaning both in the present and the future.

Similarly, Willa attributes personal meaning to second-hand products in reference

to the future but in an interesting manner. Willa focuses on the experience of second-

hand consumption rather than the product itself.

Yeah, yeah, I think there's some like qualities as a mom that maybe I looked at
my mom that she did and I thought that's super cool that I also wanted to do for
my girls. Ellie went through this phase where every outfit needed to have a skirt.
It didn't matter what it was like it needed to have a skirt so it was really special to
go to the store or go to the thrift store and pick up some fabric. It's and stuff and
then make her an outfit. Or like I made her a little monster stuffed animal 'cause
she kept having nightmares with monsters. And so I feel like those are moments
where (A) we can kind of do it together and that's really cool. Well, uh and (B)
think they're gonna look back and be like you know like I valued that time spent
with my mom.
- Willa (Generation Z)

Willa points out her experience with her mother and how she wants to continuously enjoy

that memory with her child in the future. Shopping second-hand is not just about the

product itself for Willa but focuses on the experience and the time spent with loved ones.

Purchasing second-hand products redefines the shopping experience by fostering a

memorable experience.

In addition to desiring personal meaning in second-hand consumption, my

participants also displayed motives to purchase second-hand products due to the thrill of

the hunt and of finding an unexpected item. Xema is a prime example.

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 And also I'll just talk a bit more about the treasure hunting thing, because that's
something that, you know, stands out and probably in terms of like my hierarchy
of motivations is somewhat close to the top. Uh, because, uh, I find just the
activity itself of going into a store and looking through the racks up, something
that is almost like therapeutic. Just like looking at all of the different things
because unlike department stores and you know, like retail stores that
manufacture pretty similar looking clothing. You when you go into a thrift store
you know that you can find all kinds of things that are really very and I always
think that it's cool to see what's out there and uh, and again going back to that
satisfaction of finding something. Come on the treasure hunting side. It's really,
It's satisfying finding something that's really cool and unique. Um, and that and
that really, you know, like you know, you wouldn't be able to find in a retail store.
- Xema (Millennial)

Interestingly, Xema describes the experience of second-hand shopping as therapeutic.

Although she likes the thrill of finding a cool item, she notes that the act of searching for

a garment in a rack full of clothes is relaxing. In this sense Xema enjoys the experience of

second-hand shopping as much as she enjoys the item she finds.

Similarly, Otis discusses his love for the experience of shopping.

Another aspect of it for sure that I find is true to this day and part of the reason
why I enjoy going to second-hand or thrift stores is the idea of, it's just something
fun to do because it's that element of surprise, which I think everyone likes is that
when you go you don't really know what you're going to find.
- Otis (Generation Z)

Otis specifically points out the thrill of finding an unexpected item within a second-hand

store. Otis feels excitement when shopping second-hand insinuating this feeling is

exclusive to thrift shopping and not felt at regular retail outlets.

Kevin also gives us an example of the thrill of finding an unexpected piece.

I think it's again, it's that that idea of like brooding through a bin and just finding
that thing like hidden in the corner nobody has seen and like so long and it
wouldn't be the same. I think from like it's an occasion, right? Like I'm going
there whether it's alone or with somebody. Whereas if I'm thrift shopping online I
can just do it from my couch and I guess it's just not as special and if I would do
like I have shopped online, but it's almost exclusively for like needs, I guess.
- Kevin (Generation Z)

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Kevin not only highlights his love for the search but reveals that the same feeling cannot

be found on an online second-hand shop. Interestingly, Kevin is more motivated to

experience the entire process of second-hand shopping than have another store curate an

item for him. This perspective reflects the importance of the experience and the search

for a second-hand item instead of solely the purchase of that item.

Evidently, my results highlight the recreational motives and extend the literature

previously discussed. My participants showcased recreational motives through attaching

personal meaning to items and experiences through the past, present, and future as well as

displaying motives to purchase due to the thrill of the hunt of finding unexpected

products.

5.1.5 Family Influences

The fifth motivational theme, family influences, is driven by participants’ positive

relationship with second-hand consumption through family members/relatives or early

childhood memories. Aligned with Hsu and Chang (2006), purchasing decisions are

usually learned and practiced; as such, family influences play a vital role in our

consumption habits. Notably, in the last few years the marketing literature seldom

discusses family influences as a prime motivator especially in relation to second-hand

consumption. My interviews reveal a critical dimension, barely noticed in previous

studies, that positive family influences normalize the second-hand consumption process,

eliminating stigma and increasing the attractiveness of shopping in second-hand stores.

Family is recognized as a reference group throughout my interviews. Participants reflect

on sentimental memories of second-hand shopping with their relatives and how it has

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shaped their consumption habits. Participants Lola and Gabby describe the impact their

family has had.

Honestly, as long as I can remember, I grew up in a household where it was very

normalized to go to Value Village, to buy clothes and to have clothes passed
down from my older brother to me or from cousins and such. So really, as long as
I can remember, it's been part of my life that my clothes have not been brand new
always.
- Lola (Generation Z)

Um. I think that probably contributed to my thrifting and auctioning et cetera.

Um. Because my whole family does it. I come from a long line of people who like
to rebuild and reuse things. Um. We are definitely not those people who are afraid
to own things who people have owned.
- Gabby (Millennial)

Lola and Gabby describe their second-hand shopping experiences as a normalized part in

their lives. Their decisions to shop second-hand came naturally as it was a practice passed

on from prior generations. Participants revealed positive early childhood associations to

second-hand consumption within which behaviour is acquired through family members.

Similarly, Faith discusses the positive role her family played in her shopping

second-hand and continuous practice of sustainable consumption behaviours.

Uhm to thrift. Rather than buy new clothing and like reusing it up. But even when
I was like a kid. Uh. We will try to like we don't throw out any of our clothes. We
always tried to donate that to like clothing drives and stuff like that. Like even
though I wasn't buying it from the second hand, we would always try to give it so
that it would have a second life. Uhm. Because like I know that there are people
who take sustainability on like the ego level. Um very, very seriously. It's less of a
motivator for me personally, but I understand its value.
- Faith (Generation Z)

Faith describes the learned patterns and behaviours practiced by her family. Although

sustainability is not her motivation to shop second-hand, her family influenced the way

she thinks about consumption and its added value.

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 Study participants Josie and Ava describe positive childhood memories with their

family purchasing second-hand clothing items.

Uhm, just about like my whole life like I have a lot of memories of going to thrift
stores with my mom when I was younger and then that sort of transitioned into
me going as a teenager when I had some of my own money. And still consistently
today.
- Josie (Generation Z)

My mother used to do a lot of a lot of second-hand shopping. That's more so. It

was kind of like a little side thing that she would do. So she would kind of like,
take us along with her, like, help her pick out stuff or like, see what was best,
which was better. How can she like work? Like how can she mesh them together?
Or like, you know, how how can she reuse this for whatever purpose or so? That's
kind of like where it started. It was just kind of like dragging me along with her to
these things, like different places like where there was like Salvation Army or just
a thrift store or wherever. So or like even like garage sales and stuff like that. So
she was like, drag us along with her and like, I would go there just to go or like,
actually help her pick out stuff and do thrift shopping. So that's where that came
from.
- Ava (Generation Z)

Josie and Ava reflect on the rewarding experiences of going to second-hand stores

providing them quality time with their families. Similar to what was seen with respect to

recreational motives, Josie’s and Ava’s families introduced this tradition and influenced

their purchasing habits, although the experience holds personal meaning. It is important

to note that memories of an experience determine whether the consumer repeats,

recommends, or talks positively about it (Flacandji and Krey, 2020). In both these cases,

the consumer had a family influence that encouraged the repetition of thrift purchasing

behaviour.

Evidently, my data shows positive affiliations with second-hand consumption

throughout the early phases of life generated through family members. Family influences

seem to play a huge role in continuous consumer purchasing habits.

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5.1.6 Material Motives

The sixth motivational theme, materials, is driven by previous literature on the

theory of materiality. In the context of my research, materials refer to the physical fabric

that clothing is created from. The motivational theme of materials is broken down into

three subcategories: (1) design of apparel, (2) fibers of clothing, and (3) quality of

clothing. Interestingly, my participants displayed a keen interest in the physical material

of the clothing they seek to purchase.

Design of apparel was an important factor when purchasing clothing for my

participant Gerald as the design aesthetics and how the garment looked determined if he

would purchase. Gerald describes it this way:

Uh, which is why I also love the thrift store 'cause you can find great blank stuff
or great interesting in graphics. You know, like there could be. I've found stuff
where it's just like some event or something like that and they just have designed
it really cool and I'm like cool.
- Gerald (Generation Z)

Gerald specifically likes to browse second-hand stores as he finds pieces of clothing that

are ‘blank’. Blank clothing refers to garments that are plain in design with no logo or

added decoration. It is insinuated throughout Gerald’s interview that he prefers blank

clothing to upcycle giving him a greater opportunity to create his own designs. In

addition, Gerald notes that he is willing to purchase clothing of a particular design if it

suits his style and fashion needs. In this sense, Gerald points out that he likes graphic

design tee shirts.

Further, the physical fibers of garments were an important factor to my

participants as some shared their practical knowledge on the advantages of certain fibers.

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Dependent upon the construction of the garment, participants would choose certain items

over others.

Yeah, I definitely pay attention to the material because if it's too thin, like there's a
lot of T-shirts that are like very thin or they're not really like a hundred percent
cotton and like one hundred percent cotton, Tshirts are just like so much more
comfortable. Yeah. So definitely just like a good like heavy cotton T-shirt I look
for. And then for sweatshirts. Definitely not anything like super thin, just because
those can get kind of ruined in like the washing machine.
- Blair (Millennial)

Fibers are the basic unit of clothing and as Blair discusses choosing the right fiber is

essential. Blair outlines her desire for cotton fibers within the material of clothing she is

searching for as others may not feel or be as durable.

Certain fibers are proven to be of a higher quality. Ethan gives us an example of

why fibers are important to him.

I mainly look at, uh, where it comes from and also in the material as well. Like if
it's I prefer one hundred, if my pants are not one hundred percent cotton, I don't
wear them. 'cause it's cotton. With pants it’s very important to me. One hundred
percent cotton and when you mix in elastane in plastics it's just it ruins the fabric
in my opinion. Well, it doesn't make it stretchy. That's just like that's not what it's
original intended. Construction was supposed to be minimized too, which is like
thirty something odd percent elastane plastic, and I'm like seventy percent cotton.
- Ethan (Generation Z)

Ethan explicitly states his refusal to wear pants that are not made from cotton. Ethan

points out the different feel in material if the fibers are mixed or intertwined with others.

As such, fibers play a vital role in Ethan’s purchasing decisions as he intends to be as

comfortable as possible.

Further, my participants discussed the importance of quality in second-hand

products. Participants sought second-hand products that perform satisfactorily in normal

use, meaning a garment or product was able to withstand normal laundering, cleaning,

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and typical use without falling apart. My participant Eloise discusses how she determines

quality when finding a garment.

Okay, well, then this is a very good quality, you know, not to be a brand person,
but sometimes you see certain brands. I know there's always going to be some sort
of Ralph Lauren Polo or something of at the thrift store that, you know, a dad
wore too much and so someone threw it away secretly or something like that,
then, you know, maybe by brand or it's make and feel, you know.
- Eloise (Generation Z)

Eloise describes brands as being a key indicator when searching for a quality piece.

Eloise believes that certain brands are more reputable in terms of what they produce.

Similarly, my participant Charlotte is skeptical when buying a non-branded item at a

second-hand store whereas she believes certain branded items can be trusted.

Well, if I'm buying from a thrift store and if it's a branded item like I bought a
New Balance tee shirt once and it was one of those dry fit models and I knew at
the New Balance one and I'm buying it only for I don't know. I think it was seven
bucks or something. I knew that was good. I wasn't concerned about it at all, but if
I'm buying a non-branded item from a thrift store. Then I think I would rationalize
it in my mind saying that okay if it's gonna go like tear up or something with the
first wash. Well, first drying, it's okay. It's just five bucks anyway, so that's that's
how I would rationalize. But sometimes the material it is an issue, but I don't let it
bother me because I'm getting it at a good discount anyhow. And if it's a brand
that I know for a fact that okay, it's going to last me at least twenty washes so.
- Charlotte (Millennial)

Quality is clearly important to both Charlotte and Eloise as they both seek quality pieces

through brand name items. Both participants feel more at ease when purchasing a second-

hand product that is branded as the believe the material of the garment to be reliable and

likely to stand the test of time.

Similarly, my participant Ethan discusses the brand Levi’s and how quality is

determined.

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 Levi's 501 like that's their classic silhouettes like it's what mirrors more in the
eighteen hundreds when they did work and did labor, and it was like the blue-
collar uniform they wear Levi’s denim. And when I look for old Levi’s now like I
look for that. It’s hard to source like sixties or seventies pairs because the prices
are really out there at some points, but even the quality difference and Levi's has a
like a parent brand. They remake all these denims, but it's done with, all the
fading process, is done with lasers obviously. But the original pieces are done by
like done by a person and when I feel when you take that into consideration not
even the cuts or what the tab is or where the pockets are positioned or if it has a
salvage lining or not. It's all, like faces down so like for me that not only the
quality of the piece but like but the story behind it, yeah, I do, really like to
indulge in history when it whenever it comes to buying pieces. So I'm conscious
of that when I purchase.
- Ethan (Generation Z)

Interestingly, Ethan talks about the long-standing brand Levi’s and the historical

significance that their jeans have. Ethan explains original Levi’s pants that can be found

second-hand are optimal pieces as they show the natural wear and tear created by the

prior owner. Ethan believes a quality piece is one that is authentic, that shows the true

story of the garment’s past life rather than a manufactured product. The natural wear and

tear on a pair of Levi’s jeans represents greater quality and significance to Ethan. He

continues to describe why quality in a second-hand piece is important.

But yeah, I think like I think when people start to realize like if they if they were
to buy and more quality pieces then they would understand how like how
destructive it is not only to waste your money on things that are not like, not
going to last in your wardrobe and harm environments, but I think it's overall just
better that they that they like we think consciously about this. 'Cause the more we
choose to consume and like consume things and buy materialistic goods, at a
certain point people are just going to forget about quality. So, if people buy
quality pieces and they think after they're done wearing it, there would be like oh,
I could sell this because I because I know its value and I know there's a market for
it. So. The overall just makes it easier… I don't know, it just makes it better.
- Ethan (Generation Z)

Ethan values quality pieces and possesses further motives to capitalize on the authenticity

of these quality pieces. He points out the value in reselling and how he consciously

chooses pieces he deems higher quality in anticipation to make a profit. Quality is

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important to Ethan not only in what he personally buys but also in what he intends to sell

to others.

Gabby discusses quality of brand names not only in clothing items but also in the

construction of other second-hand products.

I always look at the bottom of everything. You can tell the construction of
something from moving it around and flipping it over. You can read into a lot of
something so you can look up something. If you look at the bottom of it often,
they'll say like what it is or if there's a maker or something. Uhm, I would say
learning certain stamps or terms or just what are better quality items like brand
names before you go in is a good base. But always just like realize you can take
stuff apart like the picture frame thing I mentioned, and you can reuse things for
different things.
- Gabby (Millennial)

Gabby highlights her knowledge of determining quality pieces and the tips and tricks she

has learnt. Interestingly, Gabby points out the ease of reusing items of higher quality. She

suggests that higher quality items last longer indicating its reuse whether it’s for the

original purpose or a different one. In Gabby’s explanation construction of the garment is

very important when determining quality, this was noticeable in other participant

responses as some individuals purchased an item due to its superior construction.

Garment construction requires the knowledge and skills of fabric colors, and depths of

shade and patterns, basic sewing techniques, application of stitches, seams, darts, gathers,

pleats, and edge finishing. According to researchers, consumers expect the garments they

buy to meet a multiplicity of end use and wear conditions, and this means manufacturers

need to build functionality, or multifunctionality, into the garments they produce (Hunter

and Fan, 2014). Understanding garment construct helps individuals deem clothing items

as higher or lower quality. Gabby emphasizes her need to purchase products that are well

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constructed, she deems them higher value based on how they are made, research on an

item, brand names, and feel.

Alternatively, my participant Daniel discuss the importance of quality but

describes the significance of feeling an item to determine its quality.

You really just got to like, look at it, got to touch it. Maybe you've got to try it out
just to make sure, but it may take a little more time than just going to a store like a
retail store. But if times aren't really something that is a factor, it might take an
extra like five minutes just to assess the quality. And while you're assessing the
quality, you might find some tags that make the item even more valuable you
might be you might think it's just like a normal jersey, but it could have some
tags. So it's actually like a anniversary piece you wouldn't have found out unless
you started looking.
- Daniel (Generation Z)

Daniel specifically describes the importance of feeling and touching an item. Texture and

feeling of clothing expresses sensory comfort referring to the way the fabrics feels

against the skin and conveys information about the cloth's softness and smoothness.

Daniel suggests that the in-person experience of seeing, touching, and feeling a garment

is the optimal way to determine quality of the material. Interestingly, multiple

participants discussed their want to feel and touch an item to determine whether they

would purchase. Although some participants did not have a lot of knowledge on the

fabrics or fibers of clothing, they determined whether they liked a particular garment by

touch. This initially caused some participants to stray from online shopping due to the

fact they could not touch the item.

Evidently, materiality plays a huge role in consumer purchasing decisions. The

design of apparel, fibers from which clothing is made, and the quality of the clothing are

essential factors consumers consider when purchasing. Prior studies on materiality have

typically focused on elements such as production and consumption without recognizing

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the relation of materials to the material garments themselves (Slater, 2014). My research

examines materiality as it relates to second-hand clothing consumption and highlights the

importance of the materiality of clothing. My results allow us to delve into the longer-

term relationships people have to second-hand clothing consumption, helping us to

understand what the material object itself represents and why it is important to the

individual who chose it.

5.1.7 Sustainability Motives

The seventh motivational theme, sustainability, refers to consumers’ motivations

to be sustainable across different facets in their lives; in the context of my research

sustainability describes a lifestyle that attempts to reduce an individual's or society's use

of the Earth's natural resources, and one's personal resources. The motivational theme of

sustainability was reflected in my interviews in two different subcategories, (1) product

lifecycle, and (2) sustainable design. The motivational theme of sustainability was drawn

from participant responses and differs from the motivational theme of critical as it

specifically relates to reducing environmental impact through prolonging the lifecycle of

a garment and sustainable design.

Product life cycle was a common element in participants’ motivations when

looking for second-hand products to purchase. Interestingly, my participants enjoyed the

feeling of extending a garment’s life and giving it new life. Participants discussed several

extension strategies they utilized to prevent their product from becoming obsolete.

Charlotte is a prime example.

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 That other motive, I don't think that drives everybody, but for me I am more of a
stickler for being sustainable, like not letting things go to waste like for one night.
I don't want to be buying a gown which is just going to be sitting in my closet for
five years and then probably just I don't know start coming apart because it's been
unused for so long or whatever. So I don't want that, so it's got to do with the, you
know I have my interest in sustainability and that's where my research is also and
then there are some clothing which have become so torn and tattered because
they're so comfortable. I would wear them every day. Uhm, that once they have
started to become torn, you know I like to do bike rides and everything so I have
actually cut them into pieces and made them into cloths with which I could
actually wipe because they're caught in long dresses, and they are the perfect
fabric for wiping your bike with all its grease and all of that.
- Charlotte (Millennial)

Charlotte prioritizes sustainability and constantly looks for ways to use her products until

it has truly reached the end of its life. A product that begins as a gown is then used as a

cloth until it can be used no further. As such, shopping second-hand provides my

participants the opportunity to extend a product’s life granting them satisfaction in a more

purposeful consumption regime. Charlotte feels gratified in her individual role in trying

to reduce waste that typical fast turnover items produce. Noticeably, my participants feel

a sense of happiness and joy when contributing positively to the environment through

their clothing purchases and habits.

Sustainable design was another theme noticed throughout my interviews.

Consumers practice sustainable design through clothing maintenance and upcycling.

Clothing maintenance, referring to the additive care consumers put in to extend the life of

their clothing, offers an eco-friendly way to cut consumption. My participants practiced

clothing maintenance in a variety of forms, Audrey discusses.

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 Yeah, I do I sew as well. Usually, I'm just altering things so that they fit me
properly. I don't construct clothes from scratch, I'd usually just um take things
that are already made and make them the way that I want them, if that makes
sense, like after a shirt doesn't fit me right like I'll make it a little bit shorter or I’ll
make it sit on me the way that I like. Or if the jeans don't fit me properly they’re
too long, I'll cut them, hem them, things like that.
- Audrey (Generation Z)

Properly caring for clothing items and regularly upkeeping them, allowed Audrey to

extend the life of her clothes.

Sewing was a common skill many of my participants possessed that helped them

in repairing and preserving the quality of their pieces. This skill became useful to

participants when choosing second-hand products as it brought forth a greater selection of

second-hand clothing options. Garments were not turned down if they needed

maintenance repair ultimately giving participants more freedom in the unique clothing

options that second-hand stores offer. In addition to sewing, Audrey also discusses some

other common maintenance practices.

Yeah. Depends on the extent of the rip, stain, whatever it is, if it's something that's
like mendable, I'll try and fix it as best I can, or if it's something that can be
patched, I'll patch it like jeans.
- Audrey (Generation Z)

Patching is a technique used to repair or replace worn, damaged, or missing pieces in

clothing and textiles. Audrey, like others, also uses this technique to enhance or repair

any prior damages on second-hand clothing. These techniques also help my participants

when repairing their current clothing that may become damaged. By mending and

repairing clothing, participants continually prolong its life while slowing down their

personal consumption. These techniques are sustainable in nature, limiting the number of

clothes that go to waste.

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 Further, upcycling was a common practice; participants enjoyed reclaiming old

materials and giving them an updated look. Upcycling in the context of my research

refers to creative reuse, it is the process of transforming by-products, waste materials,

useless, or unwanted products into new materials or products perceived to be of greater

quality, such as artistic value or environmental value. My participant Isabella explains.

I mean, it's for sure almost like a reassuring thing to know that I can do that and I
have that skill set or I really like seeing I really like seeing like blank clothing like
I love being able to because I have an embroidery machine. I'll just show you this.
It's kind of in the same color thread, but like, those are my boyfriend's initials on
the sleeve that I added to this hoodie. So i think, yeah, whenever I see a blank
item, I'm like, oh I can add something to this, or it definitely expands what I can
do in the sense of upcycling. Or I once bought a pair of jeans. But I once bought a
pair of jean shorts and I went on Pinterest for inspo because I was really into like
hand embroidery, and I ended up putting a bunch of like sunflowers growing out
of the back pocket. So it's like knowing I can do kind of cool stuff like that to
make it further. My own type of clothing is like almost like a little safety blanket
that I have going into it.
- Isabella (Generation Z)

Isabella discusses the creativity upcycling allows her to have when designing clothing.

Although she purchased a pair of shorts, Isabella manipulated the item and added

additional design to create a piece of perceived greater quality and value. Upcycling

offered my participants an opportunity to be creative in the items they bought and wore.

According to researchers, creativity in fashion design is a complex process of ideas

combining several phases and gradual improvements (Sinha, 2002). Seen in participant

responses upcycling was used in a variety of different levels of creativity. Smaller levels

of creativity were utilized throughout the alternation process for example, consumers

would manipulate a garment by cutting, stitching, or sewing to partially improve or

repair. Extreme levels of creativity were utilized through buying second-hand fabric and

completely remaking a new item.

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 Further, Isabella highlights the uniqueness upcycling adds to her wardrobe and the

reaction she gets from others.

Um, I think it just makes it that much more unique if that's even possible because,
you know, unique and in a sense, it’s own thing. But like when someone asked me
if I wear it out in public, they're like, Oh, where did you get it? I'm like, Oh, I
thrift it. But also, I kind of made it in that sense, and it's a really cool thing to be
able to say. So, it's almost as if you have bragging rights on that item of clothing
because it is entirely your own at that point. So, I think you wouldn't be able to
find those upcycled items unless they're copied unless you're or you're copying
the idea from a store and creating it yourself. I think it's harder to find them in that
fast fashion world or at like a retail store unless you saw something on Zara and
you're like, I could make that with this five-dollar shirt from the thrift store.
- Isabella (Generation Z)

Notably, Isabella feels a greater sense of attachment to her upcycled pieces as she was

involved in the creative process. She points out that upcycled pieces are not something

that can be made from typical fast-fashion materials swaying her decisions to shop

second-hand. This form of creative reuse provides my participants with a practical way to

reduce waste and create beautiful, sustainable pieces.

My participant Josie further explains her reasons to purchase second-hand

materials and upcycle them.

I actually started, this actually might be off topic, but I got a sewing machine. I’ve
been teaching myself how to sew during quarantine so that’s another thing. I’ve
been looking at all these TikTocs of like really cute patterns and stuff and I’m
going to start like using old T-shirts that I don’t use anymore and make them into
like really cute summer stuff. So, I’m hoping that’s kind of a way to like mitigate
this whole issue of not always finding the most trendy or in season things in the
thrift stores. I can just make them into those kind of shirts or dresses and stuff and
I’ll be really happy.
- Josie (Generation Z)

Interestingly, Josie is searching for materials, like bed sheets, to manipulate and

transform for a completely different function. In doing so, Josie is hoping to create a

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product that becomes more valuable and practical than before. Josie specifically looks at

second-hand stores to purchase fabrics to turn into something new.

Now that I’m trying to learn how to sew it’s going to change a little bit of my
shopping habits because I’ll be more looking, instead of ‘oh that’s shirts really
cute’ I can think ‘oh that’s an ugly dress but the fabrics really nice so I can use
that to like make something else’. So, that’s probably going to change the way
I’m going to look at things.
- Josie (Generation Z)

Josie discusses how her shopping habits are changing now that she has learned how to

sew, choosing only second-hand pieces to upcycle.

Similarly, Janice enjoys upcycling materials and describes what it’s like to work

with second-hand materials rather than newly manufactured fabrics.

I think working with like thrifted materials is you already have a, um an image of
what this was at one point, so I think it's easier to envision like how you could
modify it to improve it. That's if you're looking to like create clothes or like
modify clothes that you find, whereas like if you're shopping for fabric, you're
starting from scratch. Uh, it's expensive, you know so and of course like. The
thing is, with like with thrifted material you're limited to whatever you thrift, and
you can't always get the same material. If you need extra right, which can be like,
which I think could also be good because it kind of limits what you can do, which
I feel I can help you have like a clear vision, you know, like when you have like
rules or like some kind of like. How do I say this? Like some kind of a guideline
like okay, this is the material I'm working with, this is how much I have like you
know, or like, perhaps you have several materials that you could supplement. And
you can create something new like with multiple, I don't know it's, I feel like it
can aid in your like creative process.
- Janice (Generation Z)

Janice explicitly outlines how the creative process differs when using second-hand

materials instead of newly manufactured fabrics. Janice highlights how second-hand

clothing products can be beneficial to upcycle as you are adding to something that

already exists. This perspective can be attractive to consumers who may not have the skill

set to completely create a garment from the beginning. For those who value

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sustainability, purchasing second-and clothing to upcycle alleviates the environmental

burden of purchasing newly manufactured fabrics, and gives consumers a creative outlet.

Through product lifecycle and sustainable design my participants attempted to

reduce their individual use of the Earth's natural resources, and personal resources to be

more sustainable. My research examines sustainability as it relates to second-hand

clothing consumption and demonstrates the emphasis consumers put on sustainable

purchases. My results help us to understand the sustainable consumption mindset in order

to effectively target this group.

5.2 Retailers’ Perspective

Information on second-hand retailers can aid in our understanding to predict

consumers’ needs and apply appropriate business models and marketing strategies. As

such it is crucial to understand second-hand apparel retailers’ business behaviors—such

as current retailers’ business practices and challenges—to build appropriate marketing

strategies and business models that elicit potential customers’ attention and enhance

retailer performance (Han, 2013). In total, I interviewed three retailers of which all

additionally identified as consumers. Every retailer provided their own unique

perspective on buying and selling second-hand products for their business and

themselves. My participant Rufus explains how some retailers acquire their items.

Um but also just in the vintage community there is a lot of trading and a lot of
deals that go down amongst sellers. So, I kind of like have my connections where
they know I want sports pieces so they will send sports pieces my way. They are
just like into music T-shirts, so I’ll send them my music T-shirts, like it’s a lot of
trading and like back door deals I guess that’s going down.
- Rufus, Retailer, Millennial

In his explanation, Rufus elaborates on the retailer community. Not only does Rufus

purchase items to resell for his online store, but he also trades items with other retailers.

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This presents a great opportunity for social connection and develops a sense of belonging

for Rufus within the second-hand community. In addition to trading items, retailers

acquire items from a variety of different ways. Research notes that second-hand items can

be acquired through trading but also through initial purchase at garage sales, estate sales,

second-hand stores (ex. Value Village), flea markets, online stores and more

(Christiansen and Snepenger, 2005). Retailers are more likely to put in additional time

and effort in finding a good quality second-hand garment to resell in their stores. This

eliminates the need for consumers to hunt and sift through large quantities of clothing,

instead consumers have easy access to second-hand clothing through these retailers.

Further my participant Rufus shares his experience with seeing a gap in the

market and deciding to provide a solution through his own personal entrepreneurship.

So, at first, what kind of started the whole business side of it was um, in
University I had been spending all my money on stupid stuff um, mostly going to
the bar and stuff. And, I was like running low on money. Poked into a thrift store
and ended up finding a T-shirt that sold online for like five hundred bucks. So, I
was like, okay this is like profitable. Um, and can be like a source of income
while I was like a student. So, I started doing it more, and then it kind of like
strayed from the money aspect into more, I like seeing people around campus like
wearing the clothes that like I personally picked out for them. So, I found it really
cool. The big part about, the big part for me is that I love fashion. I love styling
and that sort of stuff so it a lot about, it was a lot about fashion. And then, there
was like the environmental aspect which like fast fashion is like so popular right
now and were trying to move away from that and filling landfills, and shipping I
mean like thousands and thousands of pounds to foreign countries just because we
don’t want it here anymore. And that’s like a big thing I mean like reusing the like
materials for me. And it is just like super unique like you’re rarely going to ever,
cause like Guelph, Guelph was not good for. Um, individuality I would say
they’re like if you’re male you dress this way and if you’re a female you dress this
way. And it was like hard to see umm, like ten thousand guys wearing the same
H&M T-shirt at the bar. And, um, I started like, I don’t know it’s like you’ll never
walk into a room a someone will be wearing the same T-shirt as you.
- Rufus, Retailer, Millennial

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Rufus is an individual seller who operates solely online. Rufus discusses noticing the

trend of second-hand consumption and pursuing the opportunity to make a profit. Rufus

provides a unique perspective on how he began his company and the continuous

consumer need for second-hand products. Interestingly, Rufus presents knowledge of the

benefits of second-hand consumption but does not rely these benefits or any marketing

tactics that highlight these benefits. Rufus discuses some marketing tactics he uses to gain

followers.

Yeah, so we did a giveaway it was actually wild. We did a two thousand follower
give away. Um, so we just gave away a couple of sweaters to say thank you to
everyone that has shopped with us. It was in the middle of COVID, so people
don’t really have things to look forward to. Um, and like online shopping was like
a lot of peoples like excitement. They were saying that like when their package
arrived at their door that was like the highlight of like their day. And it was like a
break from Netflix for like a lot of people. So, we did a giveaway and gave away
some sweaters and it was ridiculous. I think like eight thousand people shared it
on their story.
- Rufus, Retailer, Millennial

Rufus discusses how online giveaways are well perceived by his targeted audience. With

Covid-19, Rufus noticed the increase in online shoppers and took advantage of this

opportunity providing customers with the chance to win free second-hand merchandise.

Rufus’ efforts proved to be successful in gaining views, reach and engagement.

Further, my participant Max is the Founder and Executive of a subsidiary second-

hand and vintage retail store located within Canada. His business uniquely sells a mixture

of vintage dolls and second-hand clothing. Max gives his perspective on the importance

of properly promoting to his targeted audience.

You know, honestly, it's huge. We only took twenty percent of the profits, the net
profits and we also use this as a marketing, you know mechanism like we use this
to market to people and people like that and we that was kind of a calculated
move by us both.
- Max, Retailer, Generation Z

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Max continues to describe some marketing tactics his company uses to attract their

desired consumer.

Yeah, so we had a… we had a lot of change in plans just due to feasibility and
what not, but our primary way of market. Well, we had kind of three ways of
marketing. We had paid marketing that we did on, you know, various social
media platforms with various major social media platforms where we would we
had an in store graphic designer that would you know design posters and videos
and stuff like that. We shared this you know we pay these social media companies
do it. And second is we would send out the you know packages too. Like gift
packages to micro influencers based in, you know Toronto, Ottawa or the the
Greater Toronto like GTA. Um and that worked fabulously. And just another note
is we had an opening night party. Uh, and we we advertise the hell out of this like
we and we went above and beyond with the other. We had a DJ come in. We had,
you know, a professional photographer and we we also use these micro
influences. We invited the micro influences and a lot of them came in and that
they brought their friends with them. They there was a lot of like, you know,
socialites. You as they come like we had a lot.
- Max, Retailer, Generation Z

Interestingly, Max describes targeting a younger demographic through social nights. This

marketing tactic is well perceived by his demographic of Millennials and Generation Z.

Max used the social night as a new release party to ensure a clear brand identity. The

social night offered Max’s business a chance to get to know customers and increase brand

awareness.

Overall, interviewing retailers gave me a unique perspective on how they

currently purchase second-hand products, market second-hand products, the strategies

and tactics used, and their understanding of their consumer base. After my interviewing

retailers, the results from my consumer interviews could help them in further

understanding customers motivations and help them in developing efficient and effective

marketing strategies.

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5.3 Significance of Sustainability Within Marketing

There are many reasons why understanding facilitators of sustainable consumer

behavior should be of interest to marketers. White et al (2019) identifies three main

reasons marketers should be aware of this significance: (1) the consumption mindset that

conventional marketing encourages is a key driver of negative environmental impacts, (2)

businesses are more likely able to adapt to the demands of our changing world, including

the urgent demand for sustainability, and will be more likely to thrive in the long term;

and (3) garner more positive consumer perceptions of the firm, as well as increases in

profitability. As revealed in my results, participants’ motivations are fostering sustainable

behaviours through consumption of second-hand products. Sustainability was a common

theme amongst participants suggesting that consumers are becoming more aware of the

environmental impact of their purchases and are practicing sustainable consumption.

New themes emerged from the data including shopping locally and sustainably for

products while also presenting negative perceptions towards large retail stores. Many of

my participants expressed their concerns for sustainability whether that was shopping

second-hand or not. Janice highlights her sustainability motivations and alternative routes

she chooses if second-hand is not readily available.

But yeah, honestly, I usually like if I'm. If I'm like trying to shop sustainably and I
and I can't go to a thrift store or whatever, or I can't find a certain item out of the
thrift store, I'll just Google like sustainable brands and then like go through them
all.
- Janice (Generation Z)

Thus, consumer demand for sustainable consumption is on the rise. Marketers should be

aware of consumers, like Janice, who prioritize sustainability. If second-hand shopping is

not available, Janice will take the time to research brands that value sustainability.

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Marketers must recognize the benefits of addressing sustainability to gain competitive

advantage in the marketplace to attract consumers like Janice (Ritch, 2020).

Participants displayed signs of sustainability behaviours across different avenues

in addition to clothing and retail. Some common areas of consumption include food and

living. My participants Lily, Ila, and Otis express their interest to practice sustainability

across a variety of different areas in their lives. Lily, as previously mentioned, promotes

eco-friendliness in her consumption actions with food and waste. Lily recycles when she

can, reduces her purchasing and consumption of meat, and limits her amount of food

waste. Similarly, Ila, focuses on sustainable behaviours with food consumption. Ila

mentions her change in diet to veganism, an option that she feels makes a difference in

her individual carbon footprint. Further, Ila incorporates sustainable behaviours into

transportation by taking public transit, biking, or walking to her destinations to limit the

amount of carbon emissions. Otis is another strong advocate for sustainability and

encourages others in his life to practice as well. In specific, Otis has led his family into

incorporating meatless Mondays to their regular routine, where they are required to eat

plant-based options on Monday. Otis notes he takes other small steps towards a more

sustainable lifestyle such as using reusable bags while shopping for groceries rather than

plastic ones. It is important for Otis to be actively aware of his behaviours and

incorporate sustainable practices anyway he can. The little steps taken by Otis make him

feel as though he is making a positive effort to reduce the impact he and others have on

the environment.

In response to the harmful effects products and services are causing on the

environment, all three participants highlight their values on sustainability and incorporate

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sustainable practices into their consumption habits whenever they can. The theme of

sustainability is nothing new, it has been common in literature across a variety of areas

including food consumption, retail purchases, and living (Komárková et al, 2021;

Hashem, 2020; Jribi et al, 2020; Wang and Huang, 2021; Hüttel and Balderjahn, 2022;

Echegaray, 2021). Seen in my participant responses the demand for sustainable products

is increasing across a variety of categories. As such, organizations that honestly engage in

sustainable practices can build brand loyalty with environmentally and socially conscious

consumers. Marketers can strengthen relationships with consumers by presenting them

with a common cause they can support to gain trust and attract the sustainable consumer.

5.4 Covid-19 Factors Affecting Second-hand Consumption

My research was greatly impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic. The outbreak of the

Covid-19 virus forced governments to apply desperate measures. Regulated lockdowns,

cancelling sporting and cultural events, closing retail outlets, restaurants, schools and

universities, and ordering people to stay at home were protocols implemented to keep

people safe. As a result of the pandemic my research collection methods were adapted,

and I conducted my research through online methods to limit in-person contact.

Additionally, the closing of retail outlets and in-store restrictions on shopping impacted

the second-hand retail market greatly. This was noticed throughout my interviews as

many consumers’ displayed hesitation to shop in store and greater preference to shop

online. David discusses his change in shopping towards online purchases.

[I]t definitely has in terms of, you know, shopping online now is it's huge. I never
bought anything online until COVID hit. So after the pandemic, when stores were
closed on, you know, I had birthdays and stuff coming up and I had to buy things
for people. I bought them all online. Even this Christmas, even though, you know,
stores were open, I still bought most of the items.
- David (Generation Z)

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Although the pandemic caused consumers to fear contracting the Covid-19 virus, many

views around shopping for second-hand products did not change. Whether purchasing in-

store or in-person consumers were still willing to buy second-hand products. Xema and

Henry discuss this.

Oh yeah, I I still. I still love it like man. My mentality is that eventually the
pandemic will. Cool way. We don't know when that is, but uhm. I yeah it hasn't
changed the way that I that I view thrift store shopping.
- Xema (Millennial)

Absolutely not. I do not. I do not really see it as a major issue in retail stores. You
know, I'm just looking at the data on where most of the COVID 19 cases were
spreading, those within homes like between families. So I think your chances of
catching it at Walmart or Value Village or the Goodwill are quite low.
- Henry (Generation Z)

Evidently in my participant responses, Covid-19 did not change consumers views on

shopping second-hand but rather changed their outlets in which they purchased products.

The pandemic fuelled an e-commerce boom forcing retailers to offer online options

(Hashem, 2020). Many of my participants discussed their increase in online second-hand

shopping during the duration of pandemic. As highlighted, it is assumed that the

regulated lockdowns and restrictions on in-person contact sanctioned consumers to

purchase products online. Although, more research may be needed to investigate further.

5.5 Conclusion

Results yielded consistent themes also found in secondary research including

consumption motivations such as critical motives, economic motives, recreation motives,

fashion motives. Evidence of all four motivations were reflected in interviews with some

interviewees displaying multiple motivations across categories. In addition to these

motives, family influences, materiality motives, and sustainability motives were included

119
in my research as main motivations that drive consumer purchasing decisions. My

research ultimately extends the thought that there is no principal driver to purchase

second-hand clothing rather a variety of motivations that are intertwined. Further,

gathering data on the retailer perspective gave me insights into the current marketing

operations of second-hand stores, and marketing strategies and tactics used. My results

provide useful insights into consumer motivations and guidelines on how to market

effectively. The demand for sustainable products is increasing, giving marketers the

chance to strengthen relations and promote sustainable products. Second-hand marketers

can benefit from this awareness by strategically promoting second-hand products as

sustainable and environmentally friendly. Lastly, my results, consistent with literature,

exhibited no changes in consumers’ views on shopping hand during the Covid 19

pandemic, but did show signs of increased online shopping.

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CHAPTER 6 – LIMITATIONS AND CONCLUSION

My research expands on previous research related to second-hand shopping

motivations by focusing specifically on the generational cohorts driving the phenomenon,

Millennials and Generation Z. In this chapter I will discuss the theoretical and

methodological contributions of my research. Next, I will examine the practical

implications. Lastly, I will discuss limitations inherent in the current research project and

provide suggestions for future research.

6.1 Theoretical and Methodological Contributions

The first major practical contribution of the present research is that it provides

much needed data on the attitudes and factors driving consumers’ intention to purchase

second-hand fashion items from consumer experiences, and specifically examines the

generational cohorts of Millennials and Generation Z within Canada. My research builds

on Ferrero et al’s (2016) four categories of secondhand consumption motivations

(Critical, Economic, Fashion and Recreational) by extending our understanding of the

additional themes of Family, Materials and Sustainability. Although discussed in prior

literature, Family, Materials, and Sustainability are not discussed as main motivational

factors. As such, my research strengthens the understanding of consumer behaviour

regarding second-hand consumption by focusing on the importance of these additional

motivations, which previously were considered only as secondary factors.

Additionally, little research has been conducted on the theory of materiality in

relation to second-hand clothing consumption. As such, my research provides extended

knowledge on how materiality influences the clothing upcycling process. Focusing on

materiality allows us to delve into the longer-term relationships people have to second-

121
hand clothing consumption, helping us to understand what the material object itself

represents and why it is important to the individual who chose it. My results demonstrate

the difference between upcycled and standard fashion design, while highlighting the

consumer desire to incorporate sustainable habits into their purchasing decisions. I extend

the investigation into consumers’ value perceptions and their intentions to purchase

upcycled products through the lens of materiality. This aids in our understanding of

consumer decision making involving pre-purchase information and post-purchase

outcomes.

Further, my findings clarify little changes in motivations during the duration of

the Covid-19 pandemic to purchase second-hand products. Although fears of contracting

the virus persist, my participants showed little to no signs of stopping shopping for

second-hand items and utilized a variety of other forms to purchase clothing. New themes

emerged from the data during this time, participants showed an increase in interest for

shopping locally and sustainability for products while also presenting negative

perceptions for large retail stores. Comparably, academic literature has revealed

incremental shifts occurring across the supply chain during the pandemic, both toward

and away from improving social and environmental sustainability (Brydges et al, 2020;

Kim and Kim, 2022). My study extends and confirms the findings of the literature.

Lastly, my research study offers a foundation to examine the role of sustainability

within retail organizations. My findings highlight the relationship between sustainability

attitudes and second-hand consumption providing additional contributions to the nascent

literature on marketing and sustainability. Additional research is needed to offer

alternative paradigms that can respond to the new ideas of sustainable consumption,

122
engaged practices, and environmental impact of what individuals are consuming. As

motivations are changing, expansion of research will be needed to reflect adaptability and

remodeling of organizations in order to attract the new thrifty consumer as well as the

sustainability-conscious consumer.

6.2 Implications

Throughout my research and analysis, a variety of implications arose for

marketers. My research study captures a variety of motives that underlie a specific form

of shopping through personal experiences. Retailers should be aware of these motives to

properly understand how buyers feel, think, and decide so they can effectively market

their products.

6.2.1 Marketing and Merchandising Strategies for Retailers

Tapping into new motives provides second-hand retailers and marketers an

opportunity to increase awareness and engagement with shoppers. Information regarding

certain shopping motivations may be shared through marketing efforts to attract the

targeted consumer. Retailers and marketers may consider highlighting benefits central to

motivations such as financial, fashion, uniqueness, experiential, etc. to attract consumers

and exchange offerings that have value to consumers. For example, if a consumer’s main

motivation is economic, marketers may want to produce marketing material that

highlights the affordability of second-hand products. Consumer motivations are the

primary drivers of purchasing decisions. As such, marketers need to understand consumer

decision-making to champion relevant products, feature designs and create effective

communication.

123
 Another important conclusion from my study is the importance of second-hand

consumption within the Millennial and Generation Z cohorts. These findings highlight

the opportunity for marketers to reach into the untapped market of the Millennial and

Generation Z cohort as they are more receptive towards second-hand clothing (Global

Data Thred Up, 2021). Prior research lacks a thorough explanation of motives within

these cohorts as such my study provides extended information on Millennials and

Generation Z second-hand motives allowing retailers opportunities to craft marketing

campaigns that reach and appeal to their customer base. By better understanding the

consumer, marketers can tailor their products to fulfill their search whether that’s drive

by financial motives, sustainability motives etc.

From a managerial perspective, sales promotions and certain marketing strategies

may enable consumers to construct moral constructs that will authorize purchasing

behaviour (Bardhi, 2003). Sales promotions and marketing strategies creates further

incentives to buy products more quickly. Strategies can aid in stimulating consumer

interest and attention (Evans and Peirson-Smith, 2018). My research confirms and

extends prior academic literature that illustrates the generational cohorts of Millennials

and Generation Z care about sustainability (Fan et al, 2022; Cham et al, 2018; Roper,

2020). Subsequently, marketers have an opportunity to promote second-hand products

and highlight how consuming second-hand clothing can reduce negative impacts on the

environment, to encourage purchasing behaviour. My findings also suggest the positive

influence of family norms, values and practices on the consumption of with second-hand

clothing. As such, marketers could leverage family experiences by creating and

incorporating sentimental or nostalgic elements into their marketing communications.

124
Further, with little prior research conducted on the theory of materiality within the

context of second-hand consumption, retailers could utilize my findings on consumers’

materiality motives to highlight the reusable features that second-hand clothing holds.

6.3 Benefits of my Second-hand Experience

Being in the Generation Z age cohort and as a member of the second-hand

community myself, I would qualify to be a participant within my study. This provided me

advantages as a researcher as I was able to connect with my participants. Participants

seemed to be receptive to my questions and conversation allowed for an easy two-way

approach. My existing knowledge on the topic permitted a deeper level of connection to

my participants as we could relate to similar lived experiences.

6.3.1 Personal Reflection

My research allowed me to pursue my own personal interest in second-hand

consumption while expanding my knowledge and understanding in the marketing field.

Throughout this process I have gained a greater appreciation for the products I consume

and the products I produce. Second-hand shopping has always been prevalent within my

life, however, throughout my research I have become more conscious of why I shop the

way I do and how I can make better purchasing decisions. I have become more

intentional about my personal consumption habits and motivating factors that drive my

purchasing behaviour, especially when considering my second-hand consumption. I often

try to practice purposeful spending as I value sustainability. Recently, I have been

moving further away from fast-fashion and spending more on pieces that are unique yet

sustainable. My research has called attention to the things we purchase, because

evidently, consumption makes an impact on our lives and the world around us.

125
Further, my research has provided me the opportunity to delve into new marketing

perspectives and strategies. As a marketer myself, this process has granted me the ability

to actively engage with consumers and understand their behaviour. My results have

shown me a variety of ways to effectively target the Millennial and Generation Z cohort

through recognizing and acknowledging their underlying motivations. This has helped

me to understand what consumers truly value when purchasing products.

6.4 Limitations and Future Research

The Covid-19 pandemic played an important role in my perspective as a

researcher as well as the perspective from my participants. Due to the pandemic I had to

adjust my research design. In the initial planning phase I was looking for a part-time job

within a secondhand store in order to gain first-hand experience in my field of study.

Being a field researcher would allow me to directly observe those within the secondhand

community, but due to the pandemic this did not occur. Store closures and government

regulated lockdowns prevented any form of participant observation through employment.

Additionally, as a result of the pandemic my data collection methods were adapted, and I

conducted my research through online methods to limit in-person contact. From my

perspective I would argue that in-person interviews provide an opportunity for genuine

engagement and the ability to build a rapport with participants. From a researcher

perspective, Covid-19 limited my ability to provide an easy two-way communication

stream with my participants by producing multiple online problems such as connectivity

issues. Further, the closing of retail outlets and in-store restrictions impacted my

participants’ responses and shopping habits. Many of my participants displayed hesitation

to shop in-store during the pandemic and displayed a greater preference to shop online.

126
Participants showed fears of contracting the virus, spreading it to others, and general

avoidance of in-person stores due to the lack of knowledge about Covid-19. Due to my

interviews being conducted during lockdowns, some participants reflected on past stories

and experiences when shopping secondhand. Although Covid-19 played a role within in-

person shopping, I believe that consumers’ motivations towards purchasing second-hand

clothing items remained the same. Participants seemed to discuss many positives

associated with secondhand consumption even with fear of contracting Covid-19.

The findings of my research further point to opportunities for future research to

investigate a more thorough understanding of consumers’ secondhand shopping

motivations. First, future studies may consider adopting a longitudinal approach to

investigate consumer secondhand purchasing motivations throughout their life cycle. It

would be interesting to study motivations across 5 to 10 years. Are the same motivations

present during different phases of an individual’s life? Does a change in income level

change motivations? A longitudinal study could help reveal any major changes in

motivations and factors that may affect motivations. Second, with regard to the theory of

materiality, future studies could thoroughly examine the strength of the relationship

between the materials of clothes and design thinking. Little research has been conducted

with marketing on materiality in relation to clothing and the creative process. This could

provide new insights on the creative thinking process consumers have pre-purchase and

after-purchase of an item. Thirdly, researchers could further investigate the stigma that

surrounds second-hand clothing consumption. My research includes participants who all

thrift shop as such stigma did not play a role in my findings, future research could include

a group of non-thrift shoppers to examine any stigma that may be associated with second-

127
hand consumption. Fourthly, future research could focus on second-hand donors and their

reasons for donating used clothing items. Previous research focuses mostly on consumers

or retailers, focusing on donors may provide a unique perspective on donation and resale

motivations. Fifthly, future research could examine participants based off residential

location. In specific, do shopping preferences change depending on access to stores? Do

consumers living in rural communities have different preferences or motivations than

consumers living in urban communities? Future research could highlight additional

changes or differences in motivations within Canada’s urban and rural populations.

Sixthly, a future research topic could investigate the role of a brand and its reputation for

quality construction versus trends. Do certain brands sell better because of how they are

constructed or because they are trending? It would be interesting to incorporate elements

from the Theory of Materiality to understand the extent of consumers material motives.

Lastly, additional studies could take the opportunity to analyze marketing strategies used

by second-hand stores. Are strategies perceived differently depending on the consumer

motivation? Researchers could use quantitative methodologies to attain greater

knowledge. These suggestions could help improve our understanding of the increasing

interest in purchasing secondhand clothing and aid marketers in effectively attracting

their target audience.

6.5 Conclusion

With this study, I set out to explore contemporary consumer secondhand apparel

consumption. Specifically, the purpose of my paper was to focus on thrift shopping of

Millennial and Generation Z consumers within Canada to uncover various motivations

which influence consumption. My research builds on and extends important domains,

128
revealing consistent themes found in secondary research and highlighting newly

emerging themes such as Family, Sustainability, and Materiality. These findings offer

both theoretical and methodological contributions to the field of marketing and highlight

marketing implications. While some limitations exist, future research could employ

alternative methods to evaluate participants’ motivations over time. Evidently, my

research highlights the rise of secondhand consumption within the Millennial and

Generation Z cohorts and provides a greater understanding of why individuals choose to

shop thrift rather than conventional methods.

129
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 APPENDICES

Appendix A: Marketing and Sustainability Pathway

*Note these are examples of different industries and include some but not all cases of Marketing and Sustainability. Highlighted in yellow is the
path to be researched.

MARKETING AND SUSTAINABILITY

Housing Retail/Fashion Transportation Technology

Food Industry Industry
Industry Industry Industry

Ugly Renewable
Foods Tiny Houses Sustainable Artificial
Energy Branding Minimalism Electric Cars Message
Communities E-Scooters Intelligence
framing

Organic
Foods Second-hand Smart
Consumption Technologies

Thrift Vintage

148
Appendix B: The Younger Generation is Powering the Rise of Second-hand

Source:
ThredUp. (2021). 2021 fashion resale market and Trend Report. thredUP. Retrieved
from: https://www.thredup.com/resale/#whos-thrifting-and-why. Accessed 2
September 2021.

149
Appendix C: United Nations 17 Sustainable Development Goals

GOAL 1: No Poverty
End poverty in all its forms everywhere.

GOAL 2: Zero Hunger

End hunger, achieve food security and improved nutrition and promote sustainable
agriculture.

GOAL 3: Good Health and Well-being

Ensure Healthy lives and promote well-being for all at all ages.

GOAL 4: Quality Education

Ensure inclusive and equitable quality education and promote lifelong learning
opportunities for all.

GOAL 5: Gender Equality

Achieve gender equality and empower all women and girls.

GOAL 6: Clean Water and Sanitation

Ensure availability and sustainable management of water and sanitation for all.

150
GOAL 7: Affordable and Clean Energy
Ensure access to affordable, reliable, sustainable and modern energy for all.

GOAL 8: Decent Work and Economic Growth

Promote sustained, inclusive and sustainable economic growth, full and productive
employment and decent work for all.

GOAL 9: Industry, Innovation and Infrastructure

Build resilient infrastructure, promote inclusive and sustainable industrialization and
foster innovation.

GOAL 10: Reduced Inequality

Reduce inequality within and among countries.

GOAL 11: Sustainable Cities and Communities

Make cities and human settlements inclusive, safe, resilient and sustainable.

GOAL 12: Responsible Consumption and Production

Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns.

GOAL 13: Climate Action

Take urgent action to combat climate change and its impacts.

GOAL 14: Life Below Water

Conserve and sustainably use the oceans, seas and marine resources for sustainable
development.

GOAL 15: Life on Land

Protect, restore and promote sustainable use of terrestrial ecosystems, sustainably
manage forests, combat desertification, and halt and reverse land degradation and halt
biodiversity loss.

GOAL 16: Peace and Justice Strong Institutions

Promote peaceful and inclusive societies for sustainable development, provide access to
justice for all and build effective, accountable and inclusive institutions at all levels.

GOAL 17: Partnerships to achieve the Goal

Strengthen the means of implementation and revitalize the Global Partnership for
Sustainable Development.

Source: UN Sustainable Development Goals. (2022). “Goal 12: Ensure sustainable consumption and
production patterns”. UN Sustainable Development Goals. Accessed 4 October 2022 from:
https://www.un.org/sustainabledevelopment/sustainable-consumption-production/

151
Appendix D: Typical Product Lifecycle of a Garment

Material Production Retail Usage Disposal

152
Appendix E: Product Lifecycle of a Second-Hand Garment

Recycle Reuse

Material Production Retail Usage Disposal

153
 Appendix F: Timeline of Data Collection

MSc Research was conducted through 2020 – 2022.

2021
MSc Research

Advertisement #2 released
in November
2019 Second round of
Undergraduate interviews conducted
research project
Re-interviews conducted
BUSI4209 Consumer based on 1st and 2nd round
Culture Theory

2020 2022
Summer Research MSc Research
Position
Third round of
Advertisement #1 interviews conducted
released in May through SONA
First round of
interviews conducted

154
Appendix G: Info Graphic on Interview Rounds

155
Appendix H: Semi Structured Interview Questions

Phenomenological interviews will be used with semi-structured questions. The questions

below are proposed as conversation-starters. The interviewer may ask follow-up or
clarifying questions as well.

Consumer Interview Questions

• Tell me a little bit about yourself? Age, occupation (student), studying
• How long have you been purchasing thrift/vintage/second-hand clothing?
• Why is thrift shopping important to you?
o Where do you usually go when purchasing second-hand
o Are there any specific stores you frequently visit? If so, what are they?
• How did you get interested in or introduced to this type of clothing shopping? Was there
a specific moment or was it more general?
o Can you tell me about your motivations? In other words, what are some of the
benefits (and drawbacks) of wearing thrift/vintage/second-hand clothing?
• What proportion of your clothing purchases are thrift/vintage? What proportion are
purchased new? You can use percentages for example 50/50, 30/70
o What would you purchase new vs used?
• What would you call your style? Could you purchase this through fast fashion outlets?
• Are you environmentally conscious? Do you practice sustainable living?
o Do you acknowledge the positive environmental benefits of second-hand
consumption?
• What do you do with your unwanted clothes? Do you donate?
• Do you purchase things other than clothes from second-hand stores? For example,
furniture or decorative objects?
• Do you associate yourself with a particular group or social category? If so, which ones
and why?

PRIOR (for interviewees who participated previously): have your clothing shopping habits
changed in any way over the last couple of years?
• Do you think your clothing shopping habits have changed in the past few years? Why or
why not?
o Are you still purchasing as thrift/used clothing? Why/why not?
▪ If not: do you see yourself returning to these habits? Why/why not?
• Do you know others who thrift shop (prompt: family? Friends? Co-workers?)
o When you purchase second-hand do you usually go alone or with people you
know?
• Is there anything else you would like to mention?
• Is there anyone else (friends, family, etc.) that you think might like to participate in this
research?
o Would you please provide their contact info?
o Is it ok if we say that you referred us to them?
• What is your favourite find?

Covid Related Questions:

• How has COVID impacted your shopping habits?

156
 • Did you continue to thrift shop during the COVID pandemic?

Materiality Related Questions:

• When thrift shopping, what do you look for before deciding to purchase?
• Do you enter a store with specific guidelines or rules in terms of the pieces you want?
(Colour, texture, material, fit, size, etc?)
o If yes, how does working with upcycled materials influence the design process?
o Which factors are most important when searching for a piece of thrifted clothing?
• How do you think upcycled products compare with high street finds? Why should people
shop for upcycled and repurposed goods?
• Do you have any ‘pro tips’ for any new thrift shopper looking to upcycle/repurpose
materials?
• Why is repurposing/upcycling important to you?
o Is the design process important to you? Why/why not?
• Do you have any pieces of clothing that offer symbolic meaning?
• Do you resell the pieces that you upcycle? Why/why not?

157
Appendix I: Chart of Past and Proposed Interviewees

TIME ONE TIME TWO TIME THREE

Undergraduate Summer Internship Masters Research Masters Research
Research Carleton Research Carleton Carleton Carleton University,
University, 2018 University, 2020 University, 2021 2022
Participant 1 Participant 8 Participant 7 * Participant 28
Participant 2 Participant 9 Participant 8* Participant 29
Participant 3 Participant 10 Participant 9* Participant 30
Participant 4 Participant 11 Participant 10* Participant 31
Participant 5 Participant 7 Participant 12* Participant 32
Participant 6 Participant 12 Participant 21 Participant 33
Participant 7 Participant 13 Participant 22 Participant 34
Participant 14 Participant 23 Participant 35
Participant 15 Participant 24 Participant 36
Participant 16 Participant 25 Participant 37
Participant 17 Participant 26 Participant 38
Participant 18 Participant 27 Participant 39
Participant 19 Participant 40
Participant 20
This project was First Round: 14 Second Round: 18 Third Round: 13
used as inspiration interviews Interviews Interviews
for my MSc
research, only one Total of 14 6 Re-Interviews Total of 13
participant was Participants Participants
contacted Total of 12
Participants

*Reinterview
**Proposed time three include suggestions on which individuals seem more willing to
participate, blank spaces will be filled with new recruits

158
Appendix J: First Advertisement

Distributed on personal Facebook and Instagram accounts, during May 2020.

Advertisement was created using the software platform Canva.

159
Appendix K: Second Advertisement

Distributed on personal Facebook and Instagram accounts, during November 2021.

Advertisement was created using the software platform Canva.

160
Appendix L: Second-hand Retailers

*This chart includes second-hand retailers that were sought out through direct contact
either physically in-store or through a personal message online. Note pseudonyms are
used to ensure retailers anonymity.

Stores Visited Location Interviewed

Store 1 Burlington, Ontario Yes
Store 2 Waterdown, Ontario No
Store 3 Burlington, Ontario No
Store 4 Online (General Toronto Yes
Area)
Store 5 Hamilton, Ontario No
Store 6 Guelph, Ontario No
Store 7 Hamilton, Ontario No
Store 8 Hamilton, Ontario No
Store 9 Guelph, Ontario No
Store 10 Waterdown, Ontario No
Store 11 Guelph, Ontario No
Store 12 Online (Ottawa, Ontario) No
Store 13 Ottawa, Ontario No

161
Appendix M: Second-hand Data on Driving Growth

Source:
ThredUp. (2022). 2022 fashion resale market and Trend Report. thredUP. Retrieved
from: https://www.thredup.com/resale/#whos-thrifting-and-why. Accessed 17 August
2022.

162
Appendix N: Re-Interview Questions

*Note these questions were asked to participants who were re-interviewed

What does sustainability mean to you?

Is sustainability important to you when shopping second-hand? Why?
- Would you be willing to pay more for something sustainable?
Would you or do you consider shopping at any fast-fashion stores? Why? Which ones?
Are there any big-name brands that you currently shop, that are not considered second-
hand, which incorporate sustainability or environmentally products into their line?
Would you consider shopping at big name-brands if they incorporated sustainability
aspects into making/selling their clothes?
Do you know of any current big-name brands that incorporate sustainability into their
products?

Website one: https://www.adidas.com/us/sustainability

- Have you seen this brand before? Have you seen this website?
- Are you aware of Adidas sustainability initiatives?
- After seeing this would you consider purchasing from them? Why or why not?
- Does anything on this page stand out to you? Why?

Website two: https://www.patagonia.com/home/

- Have you seen this brand before? Have you seen this website?
- Are you aware of Patagonia sustainability initiatives?
- After seeing this would you consider purchasing from them? Why or why not?
- Does anything on this page stand out to you? Why?

If individuals upcycle:
- Do you upcycle items? Do you teach others to upcycle?
o What motivates you to mend or teach mending?

163
Appendix O: Graphic on Findings – Seven Motivations

Critical motivations allow consumers to disassociate from the mainstream market

for moral or ethical reasons, including distance from the system (i.e., buying
second-hand goods distances one from the distaste of consumer society) and ethics
and ecology (i.e., recycling, fighting against waste) (Ferraro, Sands & Brace-
Govan, 2015).

Economic motivations: largely stem from price sensitivity or price consciousness

and include the gratifying role of price, the search for a fair price and bargain
hunting (Ferraro & Sands & Brace-Govan, 2015).

Reactional motivations: include visual stimulation and excitement due to the

plethora of goods, treasure hunting, authenticity, social interaction, and nostalgic
pleasure (Ferraro & Sands & Brace-Govan, 2015).

Fashion motivations: are related to the need for authenticity and originality, but
specifically concern attempts to follow a specific fashion trend, create a personal
and unique fashion style, or avoid mainstream fashion (Ferraro & Sands & Brace-
Govan, 2015).

Family motivations is driven by participants’ positive relationship with second-

hand consumption through family members/relatives or early childhood memories.
Aligned with Hsu and Chang (2006), purchasing decisions are usually learned and
practiced; as such, family influences play a vital role in our consumption habits.

Materials motivations is driven from the theory of materiality. In the context of

my research, materials refer to the physical fabric that clothing is created from. The
motivational theme of materials is broken down into three subcategories: (1) design
of apparel, (2) fibers of clothing, and (3) quality of clothing.

Sustainability motivations refers to consumers’ motivations to be sustainable

across different facets in their lives; in the context of my research sustainability
describes a lifestyle that attempts to reduce an individual's or society's use of the
Earth's natural resources, and one's personal resources. The motivational theme of
sustainability was reflected in my interviews in three different subcategories, (1)
product lifecycle, (2) sustainable design, (3) other sustainable practices.

164
Appendix P: Ethics Clearance 2020

Office of Research Ethics

4500 ARISE Building | 1125 Colonel By Drive
Ottawa, Ontario K1S 5B6
613-520-2600 Ext: 2517
ethics@carleton.ca

CERTIFICATION OF INSTITUTIONAL ETHICS CLEARANCE

The Carleton University Research Ethics Board-A (CUREB-A) has granted ethics clearance for
the research project described below and research may now proceed. CUREB-A is constituted and
operates in compliance with the Tri-Council Policy Statement: Ethical Conduct for Research
Involving Humans (TCPS2).
Ethics Protocol Clearance ID: Project # 112894
Project Team Members: Katie Vanderby (Primary Investigator)
Leighann Neilson (Research Supervisor)

Project Title: Consumer Motivations for Second-Hand Apparel Shopping

Funding Source (If applicable):
Effective: May 14, 2020 Expires: May 31, 2021.

Please ensure the study clearance number is prominently placed in all recruitment and
consent materials: CUREB-A Clearance # 112894.
Restrictions:
This certification is subject to the following conditions:
1. Clearance is granted only for the research and purposes described in the application.
2. Any modification to the approved research must be submitted to CUREB-A via a Change
to Protocol Form. All changes must be cleared prior to the continuance of the research.
3. An Annual Status Report for the renewal of ethics clearance must be submitted and cleared
by the renewal date listed above. Failure to submit the Annual Status Report will result in
the closure of the file. If funding is associated, funds will be frozen.
4. A closure request must be sent to CUREB-A when the research is complete or terminated.
5. During the course of the study, if you encounter an adverse event, material incidental
finding, protocol deviation or other unanticipated problem, you must complete and submit
a Report of Adverse Events and Unanticipated Problems Form, found here:
https://carleton.ca/researchethics/forms-and-templates/

165
166
Appendix Q: Ethics Clearance 2021

Office of Research Ethics

4500 ARISE Building | 1125 Colonel By Drive
Ottawa, Ontario K1S 5B6
613-520-2600 Ext: 2517
ethics@carleton.ca

CERTIFICATION OF INSTITUTIONAL ETHICS CLEARANCE

The Carleton University Research Ethics Board-A (CUREB-A) at Carleton University has
renewed ethics approval for the research project detailed below. CUREB-A is constituted and
operates in compliance with the Tri-Council Policy Statement: Ethical Conduct for Research
Involving Humans (TCPS2).

Title: Consumer Motivations for Second-Hand Apparel Shopping

Protocol #: 112894

Project Team Members: Katie Vanderby (Primary Investigator)

Leighann Neilson (Research Supervisor)

Department and Institution: Faculty of Business (Sprott School of)\Business (Sprott School of),
Carleton University

Funding Source (If applicable):

Effective: May 20, 2021 Expires: May 30, 2022.

Please ensure the study clearance number is prominently placed in all recruitment and
consent materials: CUREB-A Clearance # 112894.

Restrictions:

This certification is subject to the following conditions:

1. Clearance is granted only for the research and purposes described in the application.
2. Any modification to the approved research must be submitted to CUREB-A via a Change
to Protocol Form. All changes must be cleared prior to the continuance of the research.
3. An Annual Status Report for the renewal or closure of ethics clearance must be
submitted and cleared by the renewal date listed above. Failure to submit the Annual
Status Report will result in the closure of the file. If funding is associated, funds will be
frozen.
4. During the course of the study, if you encounter an adverse event, material incidental
finding, protocol deviation or other unanticipated problem, you must complete and submit
a Report of Adverse Events and Unanticipated Problems Form.
5. It is the responsibility of the student to notify their supervisor of any adverse events,
changes to their application, or requests to renew/close the protocol.

167
168
Appendix R: Ethics Clearance 2022

169
170
Appendix S: Ethics Clearance 2023

171
172
GLOSSARY OF TERMS

Creativity: the ability to transcend traditional ideas, rules, patterns, relationships, or the
like, and to create meaningful new ideas, forms, methods, interpretations, etc.; originality,
progressiveness, or imagination (Dictionary, 2023).

Creative Process: The creative process is the act of solving problems through
innovation. It is a systematic approach to solving problems by finding new ways of
looking at old concepts (Sawyer, 2021).

Consumers: Those who purchase a good/service. Consumer is used in terms of those

who purchase second-hand products.

Design Process: The design process is a method you use to be more creative, productive,
and accurate. This includes five steps: empathize, define, ideate, prototype, text
(Interaction Design Foundation, 2023).

Design Thinking: Design thinking is a non-linear, iterative process that teams use to
understand users, challenge assumptions, redefine problems and create innovative
solutions to prototype and test (Interaction Design Foundation, 2023).

Emic: relating to or denoting an approach to the study or description of a particular

language or culture in terms of its internal elements and their functioning rather than in
terms of any existing external scheme.

Ethical Fashion: Ethical fashion is defined as fashion clothing that is produced under
fair trade principles in sweatshop-free labor conditions, with efforts made to reduce the
environmental harmfulness of the process (Joergens, 2006). Often described as “fashion
with a conscious” as it concerns labor conditions and the environment.

Etic: relating to or denoting an approach to the study or description of a particular

language or culture that is general, non-structural, and objective in its perspective.

Fashion: is best defined simply as the way an individual expresses themselves through
aesthetic choices such as their clothing, accessories, hairstyle, and the way they put an
outfit together.

Fast-Fashion: Fast fashion indicates rapid turnover of new clothing collections, which
arrive at faster pace than in the past (even several times during a year season). This trend
is attributed to various phenomena including profit-driven incentives of the fashion
industry; late modern consumer anxiety about what to wear in the absence of fashion
authorities (Miller, 2004; Woodward, 2007); and endless attempts to (re)construct one’s
identity through dress (Bauman, 2007).

173
Hermeneutic Analysis: is a qualitative research method that allows researchers to study
how experiences, traditions, and culture shape ordinary, everyday practices. This method
elicits stories from participants as a source of understanding (Arnold and Fisher, 1994)

Motivation: motivations are defined by the impetus that gives purpose or direction to
behavior and operates in humans at a conscious or unconscious level, motives are
frequently divided into (a) physiological, primary, or organic motives, such as hunger,
thirst, and need for sleep; and (b) personal, social, or secondary motives, such as
affiliation, competition, and individual interests and goals (American Psychological
Association, 2023).

Minimalism Fashion: means having a minimal amount of clothes in your wardrobe that
feel right for you and bring joy (Pater, 2022).

Minimalist: a person who exists with few possessions (Urban Dictionary, 2023).

Naturalistic Approach: a qualitative research method where you record the behaviors of
your research subjects in real world settings (Thompson’s et al, 1989).

Nostalgia: Pertains to experiences remembered from one’s own past, but that it can reach
back and encompasses the holistic past.

Phenomenological Interviews: The structure to phenomenological interviewing applies

questions based on themes of experience contextualization, apprehending the
phenomenon and its clarification (Lauterbach, 2018; Bevan, 2014). This method allows
for use of imaginative variation to explore experience.

Second-hand Consumption: can generally be defined as any purchase of clothing which

has been used before and further broken down into vintage and thrifted clothing.

Socially Responsibility: Socially responsible clothing can be defined as clothing that not
only satisfies personal needs, but also minimizes or eliminates any harmful effect it may
cause.

Sustainable Consumer Behaviour: choosing products with sustainable sourcing,

production, and features (Luchs, Brower, and Chitturi 2012; Pickett-Baker and Ozaki
2008); conserving energy, water, and products during use (Lin and Chang 2012; White,
Simpson, and Argo 2014); and utilizing more sustainable modes of product disposal
(White and Simpson 2013).

Sustainable Design: Sustainable design is an approach to design that consists of a

variety of sustainable design principles, all of which are centered around extending
product lifespans and avoiding the depletion of natural resources (van Nes, and Cramer,
2003; Muthu, 2018).

174
Sustainable Marketing: defined as the promotion of socially responsible products,
services, and practices (Sheth and Parvatiyar, 2021), is no longer just a ‘trend’ that many
industries follow but has shifted into an integral element for success.

Thrifted clothing: clothing purchased in second-hand settings such as thrift or second-

hand shops, estate sales, garage sales, flea markets, auctions etc. (Christiansen and
Snepenger, 2005).

Trend: defines a particular fashion design that is popular at a particular time (Saravanan
and Nithyaprakash, 2015).

Upcycling: Upcycling, also known as creative reuse, is the process of transforming by-
products, waste materials, useless, or unwanted products into new materials or products
perceived to be of greater quality, such as artistic value or environmental value (Bhatt et
al, 2019; Paras and Curteza, 2018).

Vintage clothing: clothing that dates between the 1920s and 1980s (Gerval, 2008)

175