LP Dec 19 2

SIGHTS • ARTS • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS
THE FREE OFFICIAL MONTHLY GUIDE

DEC 19 • LONDONPLANNER.COM
Christmas BE
THE ST OF
D
FromECADE
wedd royal
in the the O ings to

lympi
cs
capital
Instagrammable
CURTAIN UP!
Immersive shows
and British hits
hotspots and cool SUPER CHEFS
New Year’s Clare Smyth to
Eve parties Jason Atherton
FIND YOUR
LP DEC COVERV1.indd 1 04/11/2019 12:26

YOU CAN BE IN THE ROOM
WHERE IT HAPPENS
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TICKETS AT £20, £37.50, £57.50, £75, £100

PLUS A LIMITED NUMBER OF PREMIUM SEATS & DAILY LOTTERY
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TheMayor’sletter
Welcome to London this December
There is nowhere quite like London at Christmas. As well as
the festive lights on Oxford Street, join in the celebrations at
St Paul’s Cathedral. It hosts a series of carol concerts and special
services, starting with the Advent Procession on 1 December.
Why not take a walk through Christmas in Leicester Square
with its market stalls offering festive treats and gifts, and then
head to Trafalgar Square to see the giant Christmas tree. You
can also celebrate 20 years of ice skating at Somerset House.
Sample the wonderful flavours of the season at Hampton
Court Palace’s Festive Fayre (6-8 Dec) with live cookery
demonstrations, and visit the Museum of London Docklands
to relive the great Frost Fairs (21-22 Dec).
Join locals to watch the Menorah-lighting ceremony to celebrate
the Jewish festival of Chanukah in Trafalgar Square (22 Dec).
However you spend your time in London this December,
FIND YOUR
I hope you have a wonderful experience and a merry Christmas.
Sadiq Khan #LP

SELFIE
Mayor of London Share a London
selfie using our
Twitter: @LondonPlanner hashtag online
Facebook: LondonPlannerMag
Instagram: LondonPlanner
YouTube: www.youtube.com/londonplanner
DECE M B E R 2019 | 3
LP DEC MAYORS LETTER.indd 3 07/11/2019 11:44

★★★★★ SUNDAY TIMES
‘CONJURES THE IMPOSSIBLE!

MAGICAL DOESN’T EVEN BEGIN
TO DESCRIBE IT.’ ENTERTAINMENT WEEKLY
THE STORY CONTINUES ON STAGE

NOW BOOKING UNTIL AUGUST 2020
PALACE THEATRE, LONDON
www.HarryPotterThePlay.com
#CursedChild LDN TM & © HPTP. Harry Potter ™ WBEI
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Contents December 2019
03 Mayor’s welcome
Sadiq Khan welcomes you to London 8
06 Top 10 free attractions
The most popular places to visit
08 Only in London
The festive fun you can only find in the
capital, from a Santa run to a pudding race
14 How to have an
Instagrammable Christmas
Get your selfie on! Discover the most
photogenic decorations and desserts
90 Britain Planner
ST MARTIN-IN-THE-FIE
LDS
Trafalgar Square’s Chris tmas
tree
New Year’s Eve isn’t just about fireworks
– do something different this year 14
106 London in numbers
Why the capital is number one 00
80
Listings BEST
O
DECFATHE
24 Sightseeing DE
48 Museums & Galleries

58 Entertainment
74 Sport 3,058 likes
76 Shopping
80 Eating Out
88 Nightlife
58
94 Essential Information
Maps
72 Theatreland
98 Central London
101 River services
102 London buses
104 London Underground
DOWNLOAD THE LATEST ISSUE NOW!

NMENT • MAPS
• EATING • ENTERTAI
• SHOPPIN G
SIGHTS • ARTS
MONTHLY GUIDE
THE FREE OFFICIAL ANNER.COM
DEC 19 • LONDONPL
at: www.visitlondon.com/londonplanner
BEST OF
THE DECADE
Christmas
From royal
weddings
to
the Olympics
in the
capital
CURTAIN
UP!
shows
Immersive hits
and British
SUPER CHEFS
to
or: www.visitbritain.com/londonplanner
Read a digital copy: www.en.calameo.com
able Clare Smyth
Instagramm cool Jason Atherton
hotspots and
New Year’s
Eve parties
or subscribe to receive a printed copy
FIND YOUR
04/11/2019
12:26
every month by contacting:
subscriptions@morriseurope.com 90 78
1
LP DEC COVERV1.indd
COVER: DECORATIONS COURTESY OF SELFRIDGES;

PHOTO BY SARAH RICHES. THIS PAGE: SANTA RUN © GARRY
SPIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY; VEAL CHOP AT NORMA © KRIS
KIRKHAM PHOTOGRAPHY; CHRISTMAS TREE © ISTOCK;
MAGIC GOES WRONG © ROBERT DAY; MUSICIAN
© NEIL DENHAM; HORSES © KIT HOUGHTON 78 74
DECE M B E R 2019 | 5
LP DEC INSIDE THIS ISSUE.indd 5 05/11/2019 11:45

Free Attractions
TOP
London’s most popular free
attractions compiled according
to the latest visitor numbers.
www.visitlondon.com. Source: ALVA
10
1 2 3
4 5 6 7
THE BRITISH MUSEUM, TATE MODERN, SOUTHBANK CENTRE, SCIENCE MUSEUM, SOMERSET HOUSE, ROYAL MUSEUMS GREENWICH © ISTOCK;
THE NATIONAL GALLERY COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL GALLERY; NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM COURTESY OF NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM;
8 9 10
VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM; ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS © DAVID PARRY
1 The British Museum 6 Victoria and Albert Museum

Famous museum housing the Rosetta Stone, Incredible artefacts spanning more than 3,000
the Elgin Marbles and Egyptian mummies years, including art, sculpture and fashion
2 Tate Modern 7 Science Museum
Former power station in Bankside containing Interactive, scientific fun for kids and grown-ups,
a huge international modern art collection boasting everything from rockets to steam engines
3 The National Gallery 8 Somerset House
Priceless European art belonging to the nation, A neoclassical gem beside the River Thames that’s
with works by Botticelli, da Vinci and van Gogh home to contemporary arts and cultural events
4 Natural History Museum 9 Royal Museums Greenwich
Displays of the natural world, including Maritime history and world-class art at this
dinosaurs, prehistoric fossils and taxidermy immense Unesco World Heritage Site
5 Southbank Centre 10 Royal Academy of Arts
Major arts centre hosting music, dance and arts A 250-year-old fine arts institution with
events, plus the refurbished Hayward Gallery high-profile exhibitions in a variety of media
6 | LON DON PLAN N E R
LP DEC TOP TEN.indd 6 05/11/2019 17:08

PI T
CC O
TA DI SE
KE LL NA
A AR
TH Y L L
E IN
E
GET CLOSER TO THE HOME OF ARSENAL

T O U R S AVA I L A B L E I N 10 L A N G U A G E S
arsenal.com/tours
LP ARSENAL TOURS.indd 1 31/10/2019 11:54

539852 AFC Stadium Tours_PublicationAd.indd 1 01/07/2019 2:33 pm
CHRISTMAS
Roast turkey, crackers and mince pies

– we have some unique Christmas
OF ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL; SWIMMERS © SERPENTINE SWIMMING CLUB

traditions. James Drury finds festive
ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL AND TREE © ISTOCK; CHORISTERS COURTESY

things you can only do in London
SING AT ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL

There’s a real sense of tradition and pageantry as
a candlelit procession makes its way through the
splendour of one of London’s most famous
landmarks while the Cathedral Choir sings.
At the Advent Procession (1 Dec), you can
sing along to well-known carols and hear
readings under the dome that defines
the London skyline. The cathedral
hosts several services and concerts each
December, including a performance of
Handel’s Messiah (4 Dec), family carols
XXX
LP DEC XMAS FEATURE.indd 8 05/11/2019 11:49

(21 Dec, free), the lighting of the Christmas SHIVER AT THE PETER PAN CUP
Trees ceremony (22 Dec, free) and midnight One of London’s more unusual traditions is
OF ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL; SWIMMERS © SERPENTINE SWIMMING CLUB
Eucharist (24 Dec). Whether a ticketed or free the Peter Pan Cup, where members of the
ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL AND TREE © ISTOCK; CHORISTERS COURTESY
event, these are extremely popular: our advice is Serpentine Swimming Club brave the elements
to get there early. Doors open an hour before the for a brisk 100-yard dip in Hyde Park’s
event starts, but queues form much earlier than Serpentine lake on Christmas morning.
that. Taking photos during a service is not The race is only open to club members (and
allowed – I’ve seen quite a few people get told let’s face it, unless you’re hardy enough to fancy
off by polite-but-firm stewards, who will not submerging yourself in 4°C water, that’s a good
be impressed if you try to sneak a selfie. thing), but you can watch from the banks of the
www.stpauls.co.uk lake, wrapped up warm. Splashdown is at 9am,
close to the Lido Café, from where you can
GO FOR A SWIM OUTDOORS buy a hot drink to keep you toastier than the
Hampton Pool in Bushy Park may be outdoors, competitors. Remember – there’s no public
but it’s heated to 28°C and open all year round. transport on Christmas Day so you’ll have to
Splashing around in the warmth of the pool walk, cycle or get a taxi. If you’re an early riser,
while the air temperature around you is near this is about the only time you’ll see the busy
freezing sounds wonderful – however getting streets of central London almost entirely
out might be more of a challenge! deserted. It is an unnerving experience, seeing
www.hamptonpool.co.uk Piccadilly Circus or Oxford Street empty – and
worth taking your camera to capture it.
www.serpentineswimmingclub.com
Choristers from Peter Pan Cup in

St Paul’s Cathedral the Serpentine
XXX
DECE M B E R 2019 | 9

CHRISTMAS Charles Dickens Museum
JOG OFF THE CALORIES

AT SANTA RUN
If you believe that more is more, then the sight
of thousands of people dressed as Santa
running off their festive feasting is a must-see.
During Santa Run (8 Dec), thousands of people
dressed as Father Christmas complete routes
of 5km or 10km around east London’s
stunning Victoria Park. There’s a really
friendly atmosphere, so if this doesn’t bring a
festive flush to your cheeks, I don’t know what
will. While you’re there, take a stroll around
the park – it’s my favourite in London. With
two big lakes, a Chinese pagoda, boating and
DICKENS MUSEUM; SANTA RUN © GARRY SPIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY

one of the best children’s playgrounds in the
city, it beats the other parks hands-down.
www.londonsantarun.co.uk
CHARLES DICKENS IMAGES COURTESY OF CHARLES

THE MAN WHO MADE
CHRISTMAS FAMOUS
Charles Dickens’ A Christmas he wrote many
Carol is a favourite of the of his famous
festive period and you’d have to novels. This
be Scrooge not to enjoy visiting evocative museum
the author’s home at this time of holds costumed
year, where it’s dressed as it would walks, readings
have been when he was alive. Enjoy from his famous festive
the sights, sounds and smells of tale and other events that
a Victorian Christmas, as you follow in conjure up the spirit of Christmas
Dickens’ footsteps through holly and past, so check for further details.
ivy-strewn rooms and see the desk at which www.dickensmuseum.com
Santa Run

‘Practically perfect in every way’
DAILY TELEGRAPH
flying high at the Prince edward theatre

© Disney/CML
MaryPoppins.com
LP MARY POPPINS.indd 1 31/10/2019 11:55

CHRISTMAS
DINE IN AN IGLOO ON THE THAMES a Merry Christmas. However, at this crazy
Eating and drinking outdoors in London during charity event, it’s the centrepiece of a
winter is not recommended – it’s far too cold. completely different occasion. Dressed as
But there’s one way to take in the beautiful well-loved Christmas characters, teams in
sights of the River Thames and Tower Bridge this wackiest of races (7 Dec, 11am-1pm, free
while you dine, and that’s in an igloo. to watch) try to complete a fiendish obstacle
No, I haven’t had one too many course in Covent Garden Piazza while balancing
sherries; every winter Coppa a Christmas pudding on a tray. Watching the
Club puts up clear, igloo- participants stumble and clamber along
shaped domes on the banks of the route while trying not to drop this
the river in which you can eat traditional boiled fruit pudding is
CHRISTMAS PUDDING RACE COURTESY OF CANCER RESEARCH UK; IGLOOS © ALLAN STONE
and drink without fear of hilarious and will bring festive
the elements – and they’ve cheer to any Grinches out there.
become something of a www.xmaspuddingrace.org.uk
sensation. Snuggle up
under sheepskin blankets EXPERIENCE
while you sip a cocktail A FROST FAIR
as the sun goes down, FESTIVAL
and admire the Hundreds of years ago,
twinkling lights of the winters in Britain got so cold that
city skyline at night. the River Thames sometimes froze
These spots are so cool over. When this happened, Londoners
– book in advance. would hold frost fairs on the ice, with
www.coppaclub.co.uk market stalls, gingerbread sellers,
Christmas games and skating. Although the
GIGGLE AT THE Pudding Race last event took place in 1814, you
GREAT CHRISTMAS can experience some of the magic
PUDDING RACE of these chilly occasions in the warmth
Christmas pudding is an of the Museum of London Docklands,
essential part of the special meal where the Frost Fair festival (21-22 Dec)
British people eat on Christmas Day. is a free weekend of family fun, including
Usually gobbled up after roast turkey games, workshops and performances.
and parsnips, it’s immortalised as the Don’t worry – you won’t need ice skates!
‘figgy pudding’ in the song We Wish You www.museumoflondon.org.uk
Coppa Club igloos

LP TOLST.indd 1 31/10/2019 11:57
PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES y me rry
Have a ver
Insta Christm
Christmas at the Charles Dominique Ansel Bakery’s

Dickens Museum yummy pinecones
XXX
LP DEC INSTA FEATURE.indd 14 05/11/2019 11:55

stmas Deck the halls with boughs of hashtags!
If that remix sounds like your kind
of carol, then follow Neil Simpson’s
Christmas list of photo opportunities
#LONDONONLY
Many cities have Christmas lights, but only here
can you see them twinkling above one of the world’s
most famous shopping strips, Oxford Street. See
them from overhead at the John Lewis Winter Roof,
a hidden-away section of this department store’s roof
that overlooks Oxford Street. Soho’s Carnaby Street
always designs a spectacular, multicoloured display
and don’t miss Regent Street’s monumentally
elegant lights: these look best if you take a photo
from the pedestrian reservation that runs up the
middle of the road (www.johnlewis.com; www.
carnaby.co.uk; www.regentstreetonline.com).
Would you rather not play elbow hockey with
thousands of Christmas shoppers for your Insta
feed? Then make a sedate seasonal date with Charles
Dickens, whose former home is dressed to recreate
a Victorian Yuletide every year. Situated on a tranquil
street in Bloomsbury, Christmas at the Charles
Dickens Museum is incredibly popular, so book
tickets as soon as possible (www.dickensmuseum.com).
Speaking of Victorian London, the Royal Albert
Hall is exceedingly photogenic. This Kensington
concert hall has a busy Christmas season, with many
shows offering tickets up to the day of the performance.
Guy Barker’s Big Band Christmas (19 Dec) adds a jazz
twist to all of those classic tracks, courtesy of a scrum
Regent Street of instruments and special guest singers. Meanwhile,
lights Carols at the Royal Albert Hall (21-24 Dec) is your
chance to sing along as loud as you like with
5,500 other people (www.royalalberthall.com).
#EEEEEATS
Instagrammers love a zoomed-in picture of
a gooey mutant pastry. London bakeries have
noticed, so there are lots of affordable options.
Paul bakery is once again producing its
popular mince pie croissant (£2.55) – and
there’s nothing more Christmassy or British
than a mince pie. There are more than 25
Paul branches in London (www.paul-uk.com).
The gingerbread pinecone (£7.10) by
Dominique Ansel Bakery in Victoria looks
like a pinecone, but is filled with mousse,
ganache and cake. Or seek out Bread Ahead
The London
Santa Run in Borough Market, Soho and Chelsea, where
XXX
DECE M B E R 2019 | 15

PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES
they’re baking panettone doughnuts (£4.50) for #YULEFOOLS
Christmas. Expect an explosion of zesty crème If you like to fill your Insta grid with action
pâtissière, almond sugar, raisins and mixed shots, snap The Great Christmas Pudding
fruit peel – buon Natale! (www.dominiqueansel Race (7 Dec). This silly race around Covent
london.com; www.breadahead.com). Garden sees people in comical costumes
Not bonkers enough? Then you need to eat the balance a Christmas pudding on a tray as
Christmas turkey dinner ice cream that’s they compete. There’s an inflatable slide and
available at Chin Chin in Soho (from 1 Dec; slippery foam on the route, but it’s not totally
£5.95). This strange sundae combines turkey daft: the eccentric event raises money for Cancer
gravy caramel ice cream, sweet cranberry sauce, Research UK (www.xmaspuddingrace.org.uk).
a pine nut stuffing tuille and, um, Brussels The next day, the city’s Yulefools head east
sprouts glitter (www.chinchinicecream.com). to Victoria Park for the 10th annual London
Seeking out savoury? Then how about a Santa Run (8 Dec), which is also in aid of
traditional Russian recipe, refined by French charities. It’s a longer run, either five or 10km and
chefs, given a Christmas twist and served in a the dress code is simpler: everyone is (a rather
Louisiana-inspired pub in Islington? This type of sweaty) Santa. The race starts at 11am and there’s
cultural mish-mashing is what London does best, a free mini Santa Run for under-eights before
so Plaquemine Lock’s turkey Kiev with cavalo that. Travel to Mile End Underground station
nero is solid gold #London content (£35 for three to arrive at the park entrance closest to the finish
courses and sides; www.plaqlock.com). line (www.londonsantarun.co.uk).
© ENGLISH HERITAGE; PUDDING RACE COURTESY OF CANCER RESEARCH UK; DOUGHNUT COURTESY OF BREAD AHEAD; TREE © ISTOCK
ANSEL BAKERY; ROYAL ALBERT HALL © ANDY PARADISE; SANTA RUN © GARRY SPIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY. THIS PAGE: ELTHAM PALACE
Eltham Palace
PREVIOUS PAGES: REGENT STREET © ISTOCK; CHARLES DICKENS MUSEUM © JAYNE LLOYD; PINECONE COURTESY OF DOMINIQUE
lights
for your feed? Then we bet you’re hunting for

flickering candles, glowing lanterns and
dramatic settings. Take a trip southwest
towards Richmond for Candlelit
The Great Christmas
Christmas at
Pudding Race
ST MARTIN-IN
Trafalgar Squa -THE-FIELDS
Bread Ahead re’s Christmas
tree
panettone doughnut
16 | LON DON PLAN N E R 3,058 likes

ENTER GRINGOTTS
TM & © 2019 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. Wizarding World TM & © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc.
BOOK YOUR 2020 VISIT NOW

SEE HOW FILMMAKERS BROUGHT THE MAGIC TO LIFE
TICKETS MUST BE BOOKED IN ADVANCE AT WBSTUDIOTOUR .CO.UK
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PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES
Aqua Shard Cocktail fountain

restaurant at Scarlett Green
PAUL BAKERY
3,058 likes
#CLASSYCHRISTMAS
Are you the type of Instagrammer who likes to #INSTAGOOD
carefully select the prettiest pictures for your Crazy cocktail vessels are sure to get your Insta
feed? We bet you’re hunting for flickering candles, grid noticed (we recommend the Italian restaurant
glowing lanterns and dramatic settings. Take Circolo Populare), but Soho’s Scarlett Green is
a trip to Candlelit Christmas at Ham House the winner. Visit this Australian eatery on its
(to 5 Jan) – the mansion is filled with candles ‘Scarlett Nights’ (Thur-Sat) and you’ll be served a
and festive foliage (www.nationaltrust.org.uk). set menu, 90 minutes of free-flowing beer, wine or
Eltham Palace offers a nocturnal wonderland Prosecco and a cocktail fountain for your table
with Enchanted Eltham (5-22 Dec), where (£39.50 per person; www.daisygreenfood.com).
projections, music and creative light installations At Somerset House, there’s a miniature city
fill a trail (www.english-heritage.org.uk). that’s begging to be photographed – it’s constructed
St Martin-in-the-Fields church leads a from gingerbread. Here, the pop-up Museum of
torchlit procession to Trafalgar Square with its Architecture presents Gingerbread City (from
Blessing of the Crib service (8 Dec). Gather on the 7 Dec; www.somersethouse.org.uk).
steps of the church at 5.20pm to hear the story of Beautiful views are essential to any holiday, but
the Nativity, with the help of a choir and band. Aqua Shard offers a mix of views and cute cakes.
Aldgate in Winter (6 Dec) is a magical lantern The Festive Tea (£49 per person) is a British taste
parade through the City to Aldgate Square, which tour featuring turkey and cranberry sandwiches
culminates in the illumination of the square’s and a gingerbread Christmas tree. Instagram
Christmas tree. It’s a chance to eat, drink and be should just go ahead and make you its new
merry (www.smitf.org; www.cityoflondon.gov.uk). CEO by this point (www.aquashard.co.uk).

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LP LONDON PASS.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:02

P R O M OT I O N
St Pancras Brasserie and
Champagne Bar by Searcys
CHAMPAGNE GLASSES AND COCKTAIL COURTESY OF ST PANCRAS BRASSERIE AND CHAMPAGNE

BAR BY SEARCYS; PIANO © MICHAEL REDINA; FORTNUM & MASON © SAM LANE PHOTOGRAPHY;
ST PANCRAS EXTERIOR © ISTOCK; BAG COURTESY OF KATE SPADE NEW YORK
St Pancras International has all you need under one roof this Christmas.
Flora Neighbour explores what the grand station has to offer visitors
Playing jingles on Fortnum

the station’s piano & Mason
LP DEC ST PANC.indd 20 05/11/2019 12:46

ST PANCRAS INTERNATIONAL
F
rom the highly anticipated Christmas charities. It’s the perfect way to feel Christmassy
tree, placed centre stage on the station’s as you head out on your journey home. Last year,
concourse, to the festive cocktails at all the charities that participated raised a total
Searcys Brasserie and Champagne of more than £13,000.
Bar, St Pancras International is more than just If you’re in London on 12 Dec, visit the station
a train station, it’s an experience. This festive for the special Christmas shopping party events
season, St Pancras International will be hosting where visitors can enjoy music, experiences and
Christmas celebrations around the Grade I-listed special offers and discounts across the shops and
building, as well as in its shops and restaurants. restaurants – marking the month with spirit.
Enjoy live music, parties, special offers and If you’re early for your train, take a moment
discounts during the holiday season. All aboard! to enjoy the warming glow of Tracey Emin’s
pink neon I Want My Time with You above the
THINGS TO DO Grand Terrace and in front of the Dent clock.
St Pancras International has quite literally which will leave the station after seven years in
decked the halls this Christmas. The starring 2020 – this may be your last chance!
role? The Christmas tree. Each year, St Pancras
partners up with another brand or company to THINGS TO BUY
create the jolly work of art. Pick up your stocking fillers at London’s
The station will also support charities through gateway to Europe. Top up your tea caddy and
‘Carolling for Causes’(3-24 Dec). Carol singers nibble on sandwiches, scones and pastries with
will take centre stage in the arcade singing carols a hamper full of luxury bites and brews from the
to visitors to raise money in support of multiple quintessentially English Fortnum & Mason.
St Pancras Brasserie
and Champagne Bar
by Searcys
CHAMPAGNE GLASSES AND COCKTAIL COURTESY OF ST PANCRAS BRASSERIE AND CHAMPAGNE
BAR BY SEARCYS; PIANO © MICHAEL REDINA; FORTNUM & MASON © SAM LANE PHOTOGRAPHY;
ST PANCRAS EXTERIOR © ISTOCK; BAG COURTESY OF KATE SPADE NEW YORK
Kate Spade
New York
St Pancras
International
DECE M B E R 2019 | 21

ST PANCRAS INTERNATIONAL
P R O M OT I O N
St Pancras
International
station concourse
The iconic department store also offers Click & Mayhem Advent Calendar. Feel festive and
and Collect if you’re in a rush for last-minute calm with a luxurious candle each day as you
Christmas Day essentials or gifts. count down to the big day.
If, however, you have time to kill, head over
to Hatchards’ brand-new store at the station. THINGS TO EAT
You’ll find the famous bookseller in the Take a seat at one of the many bars and
middle of the shopping arcade with a wide restaurants and enjoy St Pancras
selection of hardbacks and signed editions International’s breathtaking
on offer – the perfect gift for a bookworm. 150-year-old architecture.
Throughout the holidays, check the Got time? Feast on The Betjeman
Hatchards’ website to see when your Arms’ delicious three-course
favourite authors will be visiting. Christmas menu before enjoying a few
If you have little ones in tow, hurry festive tipples on the Grand Terrace.
down to Hamleys to keep them The restaurant is a great place to
occupied while you wait for your meet up with friends or family
train. The famous toy shop stocks for pre-train celebrations.
all the best games and gifts your If you’re looking to splash
little kids (and big) will love. the cash this Christmas,
While the children are occupied, pop into St Pancras
ALL IMAGES © SAM LANE PHOTOGRAPHY
why not browse the stylish Brasserie and

designer handbags, wallets and Champagne Bar by
wristlets in crisp colours and Searcys and sip on
graphic prints at Kate Spade New one of its Christmas
York store at the station? Maybe cocktails. We love the Minty Way,
Father Christmas might pop one which is made of rum, white chocolate
under the tree if you’re lucky. Sir John and white mint liqueur. But whatever
Betjeman statue
Finally, treat yourself to some one you opt for, make sure you don’t
retail therapy at Jo Malone and miss your train!
pick up the highly coveted Magic www.stpancras.com

LP TUTANKHAMAN.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:06
Sightseeing
Sky Garden at the
‘Walkie Talkie’
New heights BEST
T
O
he decade started with the launch of a vital a very different experience from DECFATHE
sightseeing tool: Transport for London’s cycle the other (www.theviewfromthe DE
hire scheme. Unveiled in 2010, they’ve been shard.com; www.skygarden.london).
a huge success. Initially, there were 5,000 The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012 has left
PRINCE WILLIAM AND KATE MIDDLETON © RHS; TOWER OF

LONDON, QUEEN ELIZABETH OLYMPIC PARK AND STATUE
bikes and 315 docking stations – TfL now offers its mark: Big Ben’s Clock Tower was renamed the
© ISTOCK; NEIL SIMPSON COURTESY OF NEIL SIMPSON

more than 11,500 bikes from more than 750 Elizabeth Tower, while the Jubilee Greenway
stations. Pay £2 for 24 hours’ access, and the first walking route connects every Olympic landmark,
30 minutes of every ride are free; after that you from Little Venice to Woolwich (www.tfl.gov.uk).
should redock your bike to get the next 30 free Of course, 2012 was also the year the Summer
minutes – or pay £4 per hour (www.tfl.gov.uk). Olympics returned to London. I was incredibly
From bikes to a five-horse-drawn carriage, excited, but I think that most people were
SKY GARDEN COURTESY OF 20 FENCHURCH STREET
the royal wedding of Prince William and Kate shocked by just how triumphant it was. Today,
Middleton wowed the nation in 2011. Nothing the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park offers a great
showcases the UK quite like a royal wedding; day out (www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk).
Windsor looked glorious for Harry and Meghan The decade’s quieter moments stand out, too.
in 2018, and London shone too. Will and Kate’s To mark 100 years since World War I began,
marriage licence is displayed in The Queen’s 2014 saw the Tower of London (p. 34)
Diamond Jubilee Galleries in Westminster decorated with 888,246 ceramic poppies to
Abbey (www.westminster-abbey.org). represent each British military victim. In 2018,
I’d dub this the Decade of the Skyscraper. Renzo the first Parliament Square statue to depict
Piano’s The Shard was inaugurated in 2012, a woman was erected; suffragist Millicent
followed by Rafael Viñoly’s 20 Fenchurch Street
(the ‘Walkie Talkie’) in 2015. Each broke new
ground for London’s sightseeing scene, offering
Fawcett reminds us of what progress looks
like (www.hrp.org.uk; www.parliament.uk).
– Neil Simpson
S
O
24 | LON DON PLAN N E R W
LP DEC SIGHTS.indd 24 07/11/2019 13:19

Prince William and
Kate Middleton
Tower of London
Neil on a hired
TfL bike
Xxx
PRINCE WILLIAM AND KATE MIDDLETON © RHS; TOWER OF
The View from

LONDON, QUEEN ELIZABETH OLYMPIC PARK AND STATUE
© ISTOCK; NEIL SIMPSON COURTESY OF NEIL SIMPSON
The Shard
SKY GARDEN COURTESY OF 20 FENCHURCH STREET
Millicent Fawcett
statue
SAVE £££s £5.00 OFF

MULTIDAY PASSES
ON ATTRACTIONS Free entry into over 70 attractions
WITH THE LONDON PASS® NOVE M B E R 2019 | 25
www.londonpass.com

INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44.
Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates
for our Central London map (p. 98). Prices listed
here are for tickets bought in person – reductions
may be available online. Check for festive hours.
Kingly
appetites
Do you like the idea of gazing
upon the gorgeousness of
Hampton Court Palace as
you gorge? Its Festive Fayre
weekend (6-8 Dec; p. 44) is
a chance to enjoy artisanal
food and drink, cookery
demonstrations and foodie
shopping. Listen to seasonal
music performed live in
a bandstand and, of course,
explore the palace – entry is
included with Festive Fayre
tickets. Forty minutes on
the train from Waterloo
to Hampton Court station,
the palace was King Henry
VIII’s favourite. Notoriously
greedy, we’re sure he’d have
enthusiastically encouraged
you to get a ticket.
SIGHTSEEING CUTTY SARK

THE BRITISH LIBRARY Climb aboard the world’s last surviving
The world’s largest library has a permanent tea clipper to meet the characters from Cutty
collection and many temporary exhibitions. Sark’s history. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child
To 23 Feb: Buddhism. In a space designed to mimic £7.50. Joint tickets with the Royal Observatory
a monastic library, see sacred scribings alongside available. Book online to save. King William Walk,
modern art and films. Check for times. Admission SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. www.rmg.co.uk.
free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich. Map inset.
events. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144.
www.bl.uk. Station: King’s Cross. C7. DENNIS SEVERS’ HOUSE
This historic townhouse takes visitors back in
BUCKINGHAM PALACE time. To 6 Jan: Annual Christmas Installation.
The London residence and principal workplace of Enter a bygone era of Yuletide festivities. Silent
the British monarch has 775 rooms and is usually Night tour selected days 5pm-9pm; daytime
closed to the public. In summer, visitors can tour tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets
the state rooms and garden. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. £5-£17.50. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013.
T: 0303-123 7300. www.rct.uk/buckinghampalace. www.dennissevershouse.co.uk. Station: Liverpool
Station: Victoria/Green Park. F6/F7. Street. D11.
FESTIVE FAYRE © HAYLEY BRAY
CHANGING THE GUARD DR JOHNSON’S HOUSE

Watch the Changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English
Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather), dictionary, published in 1755, in this 18th-century
where regiments swap over. From 10am; check for home. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm; closed bank hols.
dates; free. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A Adult £7; child £3.50. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE.
1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. www.householddivision. T: 020-7353 3745. www.drjohnsonshouse.org.
org.uk. Station: Victoria/Green Park. F6/F7. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane. D9.

Three domes.
Five floors.
And Europe’s
greatest crypt.
See an other
side of St Paul’s.
Climb one dome for the best 360º views in London. Step beneath
another to experience the unforgettable. Enrich your visit with an
acclaimed multimedia guide, available in nine languages.
www.stpauls.co.uk
LP ST PAULS CATHEDRAL.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:07

Sightseeing
ELTHAM PALACE & GARDENS THE JEWEL TOWER
Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part Built around 1365 to house King Edward III’s
medieval royal palace (p. 18). 5-22 Dec: Enchanted treasures, this is one of only two buildings left
Eltham. A mile-long trail of lights; Thur-Sun from from the medieval Palace of Westminster after
4.30pm; adult £14; child £9.50. Sun & 26 Dec to a devastating fire in 1834. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm.
1 Jan 10am-4pm. Adult £15.40; child £9.20. Court Adult £5.70; child £3.40. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX.
Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. www.english- T: 020-7222 2219. www.english-heritage.org.uk.
heritage.org.uk/eltham. Station: Eltham. Off map. Station: Westminster. F8.
HMS BELFAST KENSINGTON PALACE

Europe’s only surviving World War II This royal residence, which sits in Kensington
cruiser. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £16.20; child £8.10.
Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and
Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 is currently where the Duke and Duchess of
6300. www.iwm.org.uk. Station: London Bridge. E11.Cambridge officially reside with their children
George, Charlotte and Louis. The Victoria:
HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT Woman and Crown exhibition honours what
See the stunning art and architecture inside would have been the late monarch’s 200th
this working parliament building. Tours Sat. birthday. 15-22 Dec: The Luna Winter Cinema.
Multimedia self-guided tour adult £19.50, young Watch festive films such as It’s a Wonderful
adult (16-18) £17, child £8 (one child free per Life on a big screen in the grounds; from £18.50;
paying adult); guided tour adult £26.50, young booking essential. Queen’s state apartments
adult £22, child £11.50; family guided tour adult closed to Mar. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £21.50;
£19.50, child free. Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. child £10.70. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX.
T: 020-7219 4114. www.parliament.uk/visit. T: 0844-482 7777. www.hrp.org.uk. Station:
Station: Westminster. F8. High Street Kensington/Queensway. E3.
Training day
Using real steam trains that have been carefully restored,
The Steam Dreams Rail Co runs destination trips as well as
circular routes from London (p. 44). There are various classes
to choose between, from Premium Standard up to Pullman-Style
Dining. The company is running a trip north this month from
Ealing Broadway to Lincoln (8 Dec), a city famed for hosting
one of Europe’s largest Christmas markets. If you’d rather sing
than shop, there’s a trip to Stratford-upon-Avon via Blenheim
Palace from Waterloo (15 Dec), which includes a carol concert.
www.steamdreams.co.uk
IMAGES COURTESY OF THE STEAM DREAMS RAIL CO

Enjoy experiences, surprises and
seasonal treats to welcome back
The Spirit of Christmas for 2019
Find more about Christmas at:

regentstreetonline.com
@RegentStreetW1 #TheSpiritofChristmas #RegentStreet200
LP REGENT STREET.indd 1 04/11/2019 10:40

Sightseeing
ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW COCA-COLA LONDON EYE
Better known as Kew Gardens, this This London icon is one of the world’s
botanical research centre contains plants from largest observation wheels. Joint tickets
across the globe, with Victorian greenhouses and available with Sea Life London Aquarium,
a Chinese pagoda. There are great views from the London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and
treetop walkway. Don’t miss the Temperate House. Shrek’s Adventure. Check for times and prices.
To 5 Jan: Christmas at Kew. Enjoy the gardens at County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB.
night, illuminated throughout by beautiful light T: 0871-781 3000. www.londoneye.com.
installations; 5pm-10pm; adult £18; child £11; Station: Waterloo/Embankment. F8.
booking essential. Daily 10am-3.30pm. Adult
£18; child £6; charges for special exhibitions. LONDON MITHRAEUM
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, On the site of Bloomberg’s European
TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. www.kew.org. headquarters, this fascinating cultural hub
Station: Kew Gardens. Off map. showcases a Roman temple that was built
here 2,000 years ago, plus other artefacts.
KIDZANIA LONDON Please check for times. Admission free.
This immense ‘indoor city’ mixes 12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500.
real-life activities with entertainment, including www.london mithraeum.com. Station: Bank. D10.
TV studios and design studios. Check for times and
prices. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel ZSL LONDON ZOO
Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. www.kidzania. Immerse yourself in the animal
co.uk. Station: Shepherd’s Bush. Map inset. kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo,
which is home to more than 750 species.
THE LONDON BRIDGE EXPERIENCE To 24 Dec: Christmas at ZSL
Explore the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site London Zoo. Get involved in a range of activities
where special effects and actors bring this scary such as daily 12 Animals at Christmas talks and
attraction to life. Tickets include admission to free festive film screenings. Daily from 10am;
the London Tombs, located in a former plague check online for seasonal closing times and prices.
pit. Check for times and prices. 2-4 Tooley St, Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333.
SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. www.thelondonbridge www.zsl.org. Station: Camden Town. B6.
experience.com. Station: London Bridge. E10.
MADAME TUSSAUDS
THE LONDON DUNGEON See life-sized wax figures of celebrities,
See, hear, feel and even smell the royals and sports stars, from the Queen to Adele.
‘bad old days’ as they come to life via costumed Check for times. Joint tickets available with
characters and special effects. Not for small Sea Life London Aquarium, London Dungeon,
children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure.
available with Sea Life London Aquarium, Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30.
Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177.
Shrek’s Adventure. Check for times and prices. www.madametussauds.com/london. Station:
County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. Baker Street. C6.
T: 020-7654 0809. www.thedungeons.com.
Station: Waterloo/Embankment. F8. THE MONUMENT
This stone column, which was built in 1677,
commemorates the Great Fire of London.
COCA-COLA LONDON EYE © VISIT LONDON
Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery.

Check for times and prices. Daily 9.30am-6pm.
Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with Tower
Bridge available. Monument St, EC3R 6BD.
T: 020-7626 2717. www.themonument.org.uk.
Station: Monument. E10.
ICON © ISTOCK
Take a trip on the

Coca-Cola London Eye

THE O2 THE ROYAL OBSERVATORY
This huge venue for entertainment and Stand astride the Prime Meridian and uncover
exhibitions incorporates the ICON designer- the fascinating history of Greenwich Mean
brand shopping outlet, a trampoline park and a Time (GMT). There are also exhibitions about
multi-station virtual-reality zone from Immotion. time. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £16; child £8.
From 6 Dec: ABBA: Super Troupers The Joint tickets with Cutty Sark available. Book
Exhibition. Explore the band’s story. Peninsula online to save. Audio guide tour available.
Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. www.theo2. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422.
co.uk. Station: North Greenwich. Map inset. www.rmg.co.uk. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/
Cutty Sark. Map inset.
OLD ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE
Sir Christopher Wren’s riverside masterpiece SEA LIFE LONDON
is home to a neoclassical chapel and the Painted One of Europe’s largest aquariums
Hall. Tour options include a children’s trail. Daily with 500 species of global marine life, including
10am-5pm. General admission free; Painted Hall a glass walkway above a school of sharks.
adult £12; child free. King William Walk, SE10 Please check for times and prices. County Hall,
9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. www.ornc.org. Station: Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321
Cutty Sark/Greenwich. Map inset. 2001. www.sealife.co.uk/london. Station:
Westminster/Waterloo. F8.
18 STAFFORD TERRACE
Discover the life of Punch cartoonist Edward THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD
Linley Sambourne, who lived here from 1875. Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in
Check for tours, times and prices. 18 Stafford a high-speed lift (p. 24). At 309m up, on a clear day
Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. www.rbkc. you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t
gov.uk. Station: High Street Kensington. see four major landmarks you can visit again
Off map. for free. Alternatively, you can make a Saturday
Feel
wonder
first
COCA-COLA LONDON EYE © VISIT LONDON
hand
Members go free
Book online to save at westminster-abbey.org
DECE M B E R 2019 | 31

Sightseeing
night of it at a silent disco on 7 & 14 Dec; £37.50, ST MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS
book online. 31 Dec: New Year’s Eve Party. Sip Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing
on a glass of Moët & Chandon Champagne as centre, live classical music and art exhibitions.
Big Ben strikes midnight. 10pm-3am. Tickets Holy Communion given daily and classical music
from £249. Daily from 10am; please check for performed weekly by candlelight. Regular, free
closing times. Adult from £27.20; child from lunchtime concerts from 1pm. 8 Dec: Blessing
£21.25. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844- of the Crib in Trafalgar Square. Free ceremony;
499 7111. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 5.30pm-6.30pm. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun
Station: London Bridge. E10. 9am-6pm (p. 18). Admission free; brass
rubbing from £4.50. Trafalgar Square,
SPENCER HOUSE WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100.
This aristocratic palace was built in www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org.
1766 by Earl Spencer, an ancestor Station: Charing Cross. E8.
of Princess Diana. Overlooking
Green Park, the house boasts ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL
sumptuous, Imperial Rome- Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old
inspired interiors. It is possible cathedral has stunning mosaics.
to visit Spencer House’s eight Climb up to the Whispering Gallery,
WESTMINSTER ABBEY © ISTOCK

state rooms on a one-hour then head down to the crypt.
guided tour. Sun 10.30am- Admission includes a multimedia
5.30pm; Mon pre-booked guide and tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am-
groups only. Adult £15; child 4.30pm. Adult £20; child £8.50.
£12. 27 St James’s Place, St Paul’s Churchyard,
SW1A 1NR. T: 020-7514 1958. Visit Westminster EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246
www.spencerhouse.co.uk. Abbey and its 8350. www.stpauls.co.uk.
royal tombs (p. 36)
Station: Green Park. E7. Station: St Paul’s. D9/10.
Visit St Martin-in-the-Fields,
Trafalgar Square for
• Carol services and winter concerts
• Christmas cards, gifts and decorations
• Seasonal specialities in the award-winning
Café in the Crypt
Trafalgar Square, London WC2N 4JJ | +44 (0)20 7766 1100 | www.smitf.org

LP MADAME TUSSAUDS.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:08
Sightseeing
TOWER BRIDGE UP AT THE O2
This breathtaking bridge, completed in 1894, Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute
is one of London’s most famous landmarks. You experience which will take you on an uplifting
can tour the engine rooms with a guide. Joint expedition across the roof of The O2. From
tickets with The Monument available. Daily the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy
9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Check spectacular 360-degree views of the River
for bridge lift times. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and
T: 020-7403 3761. www.towerbridge.org.uk. beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair
Station: Tower Hill. E11. access. From £30. The O2, Peninsula Square,
SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. www.theo2.co.uk.
TOWER OF LONDON Station: North Greenwich. Map inset.
This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower,
Traitors’ Gate and the Crown Jewels (p. 24). WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR LONDON
To 5 Jan: Ice Rink. Book a session upon one Go behind the scenes of the Harry
of London’s most enchanting rinks, Potter films including Hagrid’s
within the Tower’s moat area; adult Hut and Diagon Alley. To 26 Jan:
from £15; child £10.50, Mon-Fri 11am- Hogwarts in the Snow. See Hogwarts
9pm; Sat-Sun 10am-9pm. Enjoy free Castle model sprinkled with snow, as
guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’. Book Wembley well as plenty more festive additions
ahead online to attend the nightly Stadium’s
sliding roof, used to the tour. Please check for times.
Ceremony of the Keys, which dates in heavy rain, Adult £47; child £38. Booking essential.
back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat covers every seat, Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden,
ICON © ISTOCK
9am-4.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-4.30pm. making it the Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-
Adult £27.50; child £13.10. Tower Hill, world’s largest 084 0900. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk.
EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. www. covered stadium Station: Euston to Watford Junction,
hrp.org.uk. Station: Tower Hill. E11. then shuttle bus. Off map.
See it. Hear it. Feel it.

Take the all-new interactive stadium
tour and museum experience at
Chelsea Football Club.
Get closer than ever before with exclusive
content, 360 films and much more.
Available in 12 languages
Visit www.chelseafc.com/stadium for more information

PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE
EDINBURGH
www.rct.uk
+44 (0)303 123 7306
LP HOLYROOD HOUSE.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:09

2312-RCT-PHH-London-Planner-v1.indd 1 24/10/2018 12:18
Sightseeing
WESTMINSTER ABBEY FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning HYDE PARK WINTER WONDERLAND
and burial site of most English monarchs. To 5 Jan: As well as a Bavarian market and a
It houses Poets’ Corner, the final resting place of traditional fairground, you can ice skate on the
Charles Dickens and other famous writers. UK’s biggest outdoor rink. There’s also the
In 2018, the abbey unveiled its first major world’s tallest transportable observation
structural addition in more than wheel and the Magical Ice Kingdom,
a quarter of a millennium, a new which features striking sculptures
tower that leads to The Queen’s made out of ice. Daily 10am-10pm.
Diamond Jubilee Galleries. To avoid large crowds, we recommend
Housed in the medieval triforium, walking from Green Park, Paddington
this exhibition space tells the abbey’s or Victoria stations. Free admission;
story by displaying more than 300 pre-booked tickets necessary for
objects. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; selected shows. Hyde Park, W2 2UH.
Sat 9am-2pm; 3, 12, 16, 17, 20 & 23 T: 0300-061 2000. www.hydepark
Dec 9.30am-1pm; 6 Dec 1pm-4.30pm; winterwonderland.com. Station:
Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with Hyde Park Corner/Marble Arch. E5.
half-price entry. Abbey only adult
£23; child £10. Abbey and The RIVER TRIPS
Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries CITY CRUISES
adult £28; child £10. 20 Dean’s Yard, Daily guided sightseeing tours on
SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. the Thames between Westminster,
SOLDIER © ISTOCK
www.westminster- London Eye, Tower and Greenwich
abbey.org. Station: Watch Changing piers. Check for times and prices.
Westminster/St the Guard (p. 26) Departure points vary. T: 020-7740
James’s Park. F7. 0400. www.citycruises.com.
Sightseeing Tours
www.goldentours.com
LONDON OUT OF LONDON HOP-ON HOP-OFF WARNER BROS. ATTRACTION
DAY TOURS DAY TOURS OPEN TOP TOURS STUDIO TOUR LONDON TICKETS
TM & © 2019 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc.

Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR.

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY
BUCKINGHAM PALACE
www.rct.uk
+44 (0)303 123 7301
LP QUEENS GALLERY.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:10

2526-RCT-QG-GEORGE-IV-LondonPlanner-210x137-v1.indd 1 01/10/2019 18:31
Sightseeing LONDON
PLANNER
LONDON EYE RIVER CRUISE

Listen to live commentary on this award-
winning, 40-minute sightseeing river cruise.
VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM © ISTOCK; MUSEUM OF LONDON © MUSEUM OF LONDON

Daily 10.45am-4.45pm. Adult £13.50; child
WESTMINSTER ABBEY © ISTOCK; THE DESIGN MUSEUM © ALEX MORRIS VISUALISATION;

£10. Discounted joint tickets with the London
Eye available. London Eye Pier, SE1 7PB.
www.londoneye.com/river-cruise. Station:
Waterloo. F8.
THAMES CLIPPERS
Visit the Royal Albert Hall
The fastest and most frequent fleet on the Watch our video about five reasons to
River Thames, with departures from major visit the Royal Albert Hall, including
London piers every 20 minutes. Hop-on and its architectural tours, afternoon teas
hop-off service from 9am. T: 020-7001 2200. and, of course, superb concerts.
www.thamesclippers.com. www.youtube.com/londonplanner
THAMESJET
Try ThamesRush, a 50-minute adrenaline- TOURS & GUIDED WALKS
fuelled experience, to enjoy sightseeing, speed BEE MIDTOWN GUIDED WALKS
and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Free, themed walking tours take place each
Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on month around Bloomsbury, Holborn and
the tide so please check times. Minimum height Farringdon. The full guided walks programme
requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; is published online; most walks do not require
child from £29. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. pre-booking and there are four meeting points
T: 020-7740 0400. www.thamesjet.com. Station: (please see website). T: 020-7078 7077.
Westminster. F8. www.bee-midtown.org.

FREE London museums
T
here’s no need to spend a lot 2. MUSEUM OF LONDON
ROYAL ALBERT HALL © TIM BENTON; THE DESIGN MUSEUM © ALEX MORRIS VISUALISATION;
VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM © ISTOCK; MUSEUM OF LONDON © MUSEUM OF LONDON
of money to fill your time in This is the world’s largest urban

London. Many of the city’s best history museum, which has
1 and biggest attractions are free to thousands of exhibits in nine
enter – take a look at our selection galleries, including Roman and
of London’s top free museums. Medieval displays. Its sister
museum in east London, the
1. SOUTH KENSINGTON Museum of London Docklands,
During Queen Victoria’s reign, offers an insight into this historic
her husband Prince Albert built area of the capital.
world-class museums next to each www.museumoflondon.org.uk
other in South Kensington. See
prehistoric fossils, dinosaurs and 3. THE DESIGN MUSEUM
2 taxidermy at the Natural History Head to High Street Kensington
Museum, or head to the child- and visit this museum, which
friendly Science Museum with offers an introduction to the
its rockets and steam engines. history of contemporary design
The Victoria and Albert Museum with the free display Designer
is a leading museum of art and Maker User, and opportunities
design, covering architecture, to explore the present and future
furniture, fashion and photography. of design through pop-ups and
www.nhm.ac.uk; www.science temporary exhibitions.
3 museum.org.uk; www.vam.ac.uk www.designmuseum.org

Sightseeing
BIG BUS TOURS THE CLASSIC TOUR
Daily sightseeing trips on open-top, double- Hop aboard a restored 1960s Routemaster
decker buses. Classic ticket (one day) adult £39; double-decker bus and see London’s landmarks
child £29. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 in an entertaining 75-minute tour. Check for
6753. www.bigbustours.com. times and prices. Departs from Northumberland
Ave, off Trafalgar Square (bus stop outside The
BIG BUS WALKING TOURS Grand hotel). T: 0844-318 7655. www.theclassic
Historic guided walks from Green Park and tour.com. Station: Charing Cross. E8.
Trafalgar Square. Daily 10am. Free with Big Bus
London Tour tickets. Departs from the Big Bus stop EVAN EVANS
in Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. The oldest and largest sightseeing company
www.bigbustours.com. Station: Charing Cross. E7. in London has accompanied visitors on city
tours and out-of-town trips since 1930. See
CAPITAL TAXI TOURS the sights or head to Oxford, Cambridge, Bath
A qualified guide drives you in a taxi that seats up and other cities. Check for times and prices.
to five people. Choice of tours. Prices Departure points vary. T: 020-7950
vary and are per taxi. T: 020-8590 3621. 1777. www.evanevanstours.com.
www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk.
Westminster GOLDEN TOURS
CITY OF LONDON Abbey’s Poets’ From day excursions to overnight
GUIDED WALKS Corner is city breaks, this London expert offers
a burial site
Choose from a variety of unique that contains quality tour experiences from London
ICON © ISTOCK
themed walks, all within London’s the graves of to locations such as Stonehenge and
historic Square Mile. Prices range Chaucer and Brighton. Check for times and prices.
from free to £12.50. Departure points Dickens Departure points vary. T: 020-7630
vary. www.cityoflondonguides.com. 2039. www.goldentours.com.
Your official River Bus service
Fun. Fast. Frequent

To Putney
from
£4.4
adult
singl
0
e
Oyster Contactless App Online thamesclippers.com
TC_ADS_LP_91mmx118mm_new_logo_ART_blue.indd 1 05/08/2019 10:30

TAKE THE
VICTORIA LINE TO
THE SEVEN SISTERS
ULTIMATE BEHIND
THE SCENES
EXPERIENCE
SPURS STADIUM TOUR

Enjoy a 90-minute Guided Stadium Tour taking
you behind the scenes of the world-class
Tottenham Hotspur Stadium.
Visit tottenhamhotspur.com/tours
THE
TOTTENHAM
#tottenhamexperience EXPERIENCE
LP SPURS.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:12

Sightseeing
GOLDEN TOURS BIKE TOURS LONDON WALKS
Embark on a tour of the capital, using either London’s oldest walking tour company offers
a standard or electric bike. Wide variety of tour more than 300 walks. Each takes around two
themes. Check for prices. 11a Charing Cross hours, departure points vary and there’s no need
Rd, WC2H 0EP. T: 020-7341 6255. www.golden to book. Adult £10; child free when accompanied
tours.com. Station: Leicester Square. E8. by an adult. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624
3978. www.walks.com.
GOLDEN TOURS OPEN-TOP BUS TOURS
See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The ORIGINAL LONDON SIGHTSEEING WALK
Essential Tour has an English-speaking guide, The 90-minute Changing the Guard walk departs
or there are tours with multilingual audio daily at 10am from the Original London Visitor
commentary, during which you can hop-on and Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur
hop-off. Three-hour, one-day, 24-, 48- and Street. £10 per walk, or free with an Original
72-hour tickets available. Departure points vary. London Sightseeing Tour ticket. 17-19 Cockspur
T: 020-7341 6255. www.goldentours.com. St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722.
www.theoriginaltour.com. Station:
JACK THE RIPPER TOUR Charing Cross. E7.
Take a two-hour walk around the The Coca-Cola
Whitechapel area, led by an expert London Eye THE ORIGINAL TOUR
guide, about the infamous serial killer can carry 800 Live and multilingual open-top guided
who struck in this area. Numbers are people on each bus tours take you to the city’s best
limited to ensure the best and rotation, the attractions, allowing you to hop-on and
same number
ICON © ISTOCK
creepiest ambience. Booking essential. hop-off at more than 80 stops. Check for
that would fill 11
Daily 7pm. £10. Exit 4, Aldgate East double-decker prices. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL.
Station. T: 020-8530 8443. www. buses T: 020-8877 1722. www.theoriginal
jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Off map. tour.com. Station: Charing Cross. E7.
042 LP DEC 19.indd 42 06/11/2019 17:12

WINDSOR CASTLE
WINDSOR
HOME OF THE
ROYAL WEDDING
©PA
www.rct.uk
+44 (0)303 123 7304
LP WINDSOR CASTLE.indd 1 04/11/2019 10:44

2333-RCT-Windsor-London-Planner-1.indd 1 21/11/2018 14:12
Sightseeing
ROYAL ALBERT HALL TOURS THE STEAM DREAMS RAIL CO
Visit this famous Victorian concert hall. Check Take a memorable trip on board Steam Dreams’
for times and prices. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. fleet of restored steam trains, each designed to
T: 020-7959 0558. www.royalalberthall.com. evoke a bygone era of luxury train travel (p. 28).
Station: South Kensington. F4. Departure points vary. T: 01483-209 888.
www.steamdreams.co.uk.
ROYAL OPERA HOUSE TOURS
One of the world’s leading opera and ballet TWIZY TOURS
venues. Please check for tour themes, times and Hire a two-seater Renault Twizy, then drive
prices. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. around London accompanied by a GPS-guided
www.roh.org.uk/tours. Station: Covent Garden. D8. audio tour. Alternatively, rent a Twizy without an
audio guide. Prices from £30 per rental. Apcoa
SEE LONDON BY NIGHT TOUR Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB.
Evening bus tours around the city depart outside T: 07376-428 363. www.twizytours.com.
The Ritz. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £21; Station: Marble Arch. D5.
child £12. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR.
T: 020-7183 4744. www.seelondonby OUT OF TOWN
night.com. Station: Green Park. E6. HAMPTON COURT PALACE
Once the favourite royal residence
SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE The Royal of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace
Reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Globe Standard flag and 300-year-old maze is set in 60
plus the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse. is flown at acres of parkland on the river. To 5 Jan:
Windsor Castle
ICON © ISTOCK
Check for times and prices. 21 New Ice Rink. Glide across the ice as you
Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 only when the take in the view of the palace; adult
Queen is
1400. www.shakespearesglobe.com. present from £15; child £10.50. 6-8 Dec:
Station: Blackfriars. E10. Festive Fayre. This festival welcomes

LP RMG.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:16
Sightseeing
all sorts of foodie attractions to the courtyards WARWICK CASTLE
(p. 26). Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £23.70; child Built in 1068, this majestic castle is now
£11.90. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, a family-friendly experience. Please check
KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. www.hrp.org.uk. for times and prices. Warwick, Warwickshire,
Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court. Off map. CV34 4QU. T: 0871-265 2000. www.warwick-
castle.com. Station: Warwick. Off map.
PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE
The Queen’s official residence in Scotland WINDSOR CASTLE
stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s
8 Dec: Carols around the Christmas Tree. See oldest inhabited castle has glorious state
the state apartments decorated for Christmas; apartments. 7 Dec: A Victorian Yuletide. Get
7pm-8.30pm; £15. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. involved with a programme of Victorian-style
Adult £15; child £8.70. Canongate, The Royal Christmas activities around the castle; free with
Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. admission. Changing the Guard alternate days
www.rct.uk/palaceofholyroodhouse. Station: 11am except Sun. Daily 10am-4.15pm. Adult
Edinburgh Waverley. Off map. £22.50; child £13. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ.
T: 0303-123 7304. www.rct.uk/windsorcastle.
STONEHENGE Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central
The world’s most famous stone circle and or Windsor & Eton Riverside. Off map.
a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more
than 5,000 years old. There’s a visitor centre
ENT • MAPS
• EATING • ENTERTAINM
• SHOPPING
SIGHTS • ARTS
and a café. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £21.10;

MONTHLY GUIDE
THE FREE OFFICIAL NER.COM
DEC 19 • LONDONPLAN
FOR MORE PLACES VISIT

BEST OF
THE DECADE
Christmas
From royal
weddings
to
the Olympics
in the
child £12.70. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE.

UP!
CURTAIN
capital
shows
Immersive hits
and British
SUPER CHEFS
to
le Clare Smyth
LONDONPLANNER.COM
Instagrammab cool Jason Atherton
hotspots and
New Year’s
Eve parties
T: 0870-333 1181. www.english-heritage.org.uk.

Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or FIND YOUR
12:26
taxi. Off map.

04/11/2019
1
LP DEC COVERV1.indd
From Buckingham Palace to the Royal Pavilion
Treasure
A PRINCE’S
Admission payable
Members free
brightonmuseums.org.uk
21 SEPTEMBER 2019
– AUTUMN 2021
The Royal Collection returns to Brighton
ROYAL PAVILION • BRIGHTON BN1 1EE
Images: Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2019

Ad 57mm x 91mm April 2018.qxp_Layout 1 05/04/20
See
By Night
London looks amazing,

beautifully lit up at night
Departing daily from Green Park

bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel
at 19:30 and 21:20
Spectacular live guided tours of London by night
LONDON Adult - £21, Child - £12

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744
WALKS
®
Private tours available for groups day or night
Over 100 walks every week

london@walks.com
020 7624 3978
www.walks.com www.seelondonbynight.com
J ACK THE RIPPER TOU R

A WALK WORTH INVESTIGATING
“...this is an eerie, historical site... and, without a single
prop, Richard Jones succeeds in conjuring more potent
memories out of the area than from a neighbourhood
full of palaces...” The Sunday Times
SEE IT ONLINE BEFORE YOU BOOK

You can follow a step by step guide to our route, read the full Jack
the Ripper story and watch videos on our website BEFORE you
take the walk:
www.rippertour.com
On our walk we show you original Victorian photographs of the
streets through which you are walking as they were in 1888.
We are the only Jack the Ripper Walk to limit the number of
participants so booking is essential.
TO BOOK YOUR PLACE PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE

WWW.RIPPERTOUR.COM or TEL: 020 8530 8443
DECE M B E R 2019 | 47

Museums & Galleries
Hayward Gallery
Tate Modern
Alexander
McQueen’s
Plato’s
Atlantis dress
HAYWARD GALLERY © RICHARD BATTYE; DESS TATE MODERN © ISTOCK; COCK AND
BULL COURTESY OF TRAMSHED; SERPENTINE SACKLER GALLERY © LUKE HAYES
Damien Hirst’s
Cock and Bull
Serpentine Sackler
Gallery’s extension
LP DEC M&G.indd 48 05/11/2019 15:04

Reductions may be available online. Many venues
offer free admission, but charge for exhibitions.
BESTE
OF TH
E
Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates for
our map (p. 98). Check for festive hours.
DECAD
MUSEUMS
Grand designs
BANK OF ENGLAND MUSEUM
Explore the story of the bank’s foundation. Mon-Fri
10am-5pm Admission free. Bartholomew Lane,
B
ritish star-chitect Zaha Hadid injected EC2R 8AH. T: 020-3461 5545. www.bankof
a shot of energy into Hyde Park’s arm england.co.uk/museum. Station: Bank. D10.
with her Serpentine Sackler Gallery
extension, which opened in 2013. This BENJAMIN FRANKLIN HOUSE
futuristic structure looks like it’s attempting to The last home of the American Founding Father.
swallow the 19th-century gunpowder store it’s Architectural tour: adult £6; child free. Historical
attached to. Hadid’s untimely death followed Experience: adult £8; child free. 36 Craven St,
in 2016, just as the Science Museum (p. 56) WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. www.benjamin
opened its permanent space designed by Zaha franklinhouse.org. Station: Charing Cross. E8.
Hadid Architects, Mathematics: The Winton
Gallery (www.serpentinegalleries.org). BODY WORLDS
Speaking of famous Brits, Damien Hirst left a Known around the world, this brand
lasting mark on London’s art scene in 2015 when specialises in the human body. Daily 10am-7pm;
he opened Newport Street Gallery. It fulfils the last Fri every month 10am-10pm. Adult £25;
artist’s ambition to share his art collection with child £18. London Pavilion, 1 Piccadilly Circus,
the public for free. Hidden in Lambeth, the gallery W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. www.bodyworlds.
holds one exhibition at a time. Hirst also installed co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
his Cock and Bull artwork in the Tramshed
restaurant in 2012 (www.newportstreetgallery.com; THE BRITISH MUSEUM
www.hixrestaurants.co.uk). See huge displays from Egypt, Iran and India.
A mind-boggling number of exhibitions have Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm.
opened in the city over the past 10 years. With Admission free; charges for some exhibits. Great
the death of Alexander McQueen in 2010 and Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. www.
the opening of Savage Beauty in 2015 however, britishmuseum.org. Station: Russell Square. D7/8.
a phenomenon was created. The first McQueen
retrospective became the Victoria and Albert CHARLES DICKENS MUSEUM
Museum’s most popular show to date; it was The former home of Victorian novelist Charles
visited by 493,043 people and stayed open Dickens (p. 10). Daily 10am-5pm; open until 8pm
overnight to meet demand. You can see once a month. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. 48
HAYWARD GALLERY © RICHARD BATTYE; DESS TATE MODERN © ISTOCK; COCK AND
McQueen’s Plato’s Atlantis dress in room 40 in Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. www.
BULL COURTESY OF TRAMSHED; SERPENTINE SACKLER GALLERY © LUKE HAYES
the V&A’s permanent fashion collection (p. 56). dickens museum.com. Station: Russell Square. C8.
In 2016, The Design Museum (p. 49) made a
bold move across town, from an easy-to-miss but CHURCHILL WAR ROOMS
scenic spot beside Tower Bridge, to a majestic and Explore Winston Churchill’s secret bunker.
daring building in Kensington. Three times the Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £22; child £11. Clive
size of its former home, The Design Museum Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930
won European Museum of the Year 2018. Its new 6961. www.iwm.org.uk. Station: Westminster. F7.
premises rejuvenated a Grade II-listed 1960s
building and the origami-like roof is spectacular. CLINK PRISON MUSEUM
Following a refurbishment, the Southbank Lifelike models in a former prison. Mon-Fri
Centre’s esteemed Hayward Gallery (p. 56) 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50;
reopened in 2018. After 50 years, its 66 distinctive child £5.50. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900.
roof pyramids finally fulfil their original purpose, www.clink.co.uk. Station: London Bridge. E10.
which is to flood the top-floor galleries with light.
Tate Modern gallery probably had the best THE DESIGN MUSEUM
decade (p. 56). In 2016 it opened its Switch House One of the world’s leading museums of design.
extension, increasing its exhibition space by Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for
60 per cent and helping it to become London’s exhibitions. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG.
second most-visited free London attraction. T: 020-3862 5900. www.designmuseum.org.
– Neil Simpson Station: High Street Kensington. Off map.
DECE M B E R 2019 | 49
049 LP DEC 19 NEW.indd 49 07/11/2019 13:31

Museums & Galleries
FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE MUSEUM LEIGHTON HOUSE MUSEUM
Learn about the pioneering British nurse. Daily The former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton. Wed-
10am-5pm. Adult £8; child £4. 2 Lambeth Palace Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9; child free. 12 Holland
Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 4400. www.florence- Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. www.rbkc.
nightingale.co.uk. Station: Westminster. F8. gov.uk. Station: Kensington Olympia. Off map.
THE FOUNDLING MUSEUM LONDON FILM MUSEUM

A former home for abandoned children. Check for Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of
times. Adult £12; child free. 40 Brunswick Square, James Bond vehicles from the films. Daily 10am-
WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. www.foundling 6pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. 45 Wellington St,
museum.org.uk. Station: Russell Square. C8. WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. www.londonfilm
museum.com. Station: Covent Garden. E8.
THE GUARDS MUSEUM
History of the five regiments of the Foot Guards.
Daily 10am-4pm; closed 18 Dec-20 Jan. Adult £8; Good company
child free. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk,
SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. www.theguards If you’ve seen Pirates of the Caribbean, you are
museum.com. Station: St James’s Park. D5. probably familiar with the East India Company:
they’re the bad guys. Happily, The Wallace
HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY MUSEUM Collection is hoping to redress the balance
Learn about the duties of the Household Cavalry in favour of colonised communities who worked
Regiments. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £8.50; child for the East India Company. The Marylebone
£6.50. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. mansion-turned-gallery’s new exhibition,
T: 020-7930 3070. www.householdcavalry Forgotten Masters: Indian Painting for the
museum.co.uk. Station: Westminster. E7. East India Company (from 4 Dec), displays
a collection of 18th- and 19th-century paintings,
IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM each by artists who were commissioned by the
Displays on conflicts including World War I. East India Company and then forgotten. As well
Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. Lambeth Rd, as being beautiful, these paintings are a window
SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. www.iwm.org.uk. into the world of India at that point in history.
Station: Lambeth North. F9. www.wallacecollection.org
FAMILY OF GHULAM ALI KHAN © FREER GALLERY OF ART AND ARTHUR M SACKLER
GALLERY/SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION COURTESY OF THE WALLACE COLLECTION
LP DEC M&G.indd 50 05/11/2019 15:06

European Museum
of the Year 2018
High Street Kensington
LP THE DESIGN MUSEUM.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:17

Museums & Galleries
LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM
The museum displays the story of
London’s transport system. Daily 10am-6pm.
Adult £18; child free. Covent Garden Piazza,
WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. www.ltmuseum.
co.uk. Station: Covent Garden. E8.
MUSEUM OF FREEMASONRY
Discover the history of the Freemasons at home
and abroad. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Admission
free. Freemasons’ Hall, Great Queen St, WC2B
5AZ. T: 020-7395 9257. www.museumfree
masonry.org.uk. Station: Holborn. D8.
MUSEUM OF LONDON
The world’s largest urban history museum has
exhibits on Roman and Medieval London. 150 A woman’s world
London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. www.
museumoflondon.org.uk. Station: Barbican. D10. Who said learning isn’t fun? Surely nobody
who’s been to the new Vagina Museum
MUSEUM OF LONDON DOCKLANDS in Camden Market. This autumn’s most
The history of the River Thames, from a Roman eye-catching new opening on London’s
thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands. cultural scene claims to be the world’s
Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for some first museum that is dedicated to vaginas
exhibitions. T: 020-7001 9844. www.museumof (Iceland is home to its male counterpart,
london.org.uk. Station: West India Quay. Off map. the Phallological Museum). It aims to
spread knowledge of gynaecological
NATIONAL ARMY MUSEUM anatomy and health, stamping out the
Interactive displays telling the stories of soldiers. shame and negativity that this body part
Daily 10am-5.30pm and until 8pm on 4 Dec. has historically been subjected to.
Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. The museum’s first exhibition, Muff
Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HT. T: 020-7730 0717. Busters, is all about combating the myths
www.nam.ac.uk. Station: Sloane Square. Off map. that have been created about vaginas.
www.vaginamuseum.co.uk
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM
Get up close to the objects that made
history including great British art. Daily 10am- THE POSTAL MUSEUM
5pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. Exhibits exploring postal history, plus
Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. the old ‘mail rail’ which you can ride. Daily
www.rmg.co.uk. Station: Greenwich. Map inset. 10am-5pm. Adult £17; child £10. 15-20 Phoenix
Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. www.postal
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM museum.org. Station: Russell Square. C8.
Astounding collections at this huge
old museum, from dinosaurs to fossils and its QUEEN’S HOUSE
blue whale skeleton. Daily 10am-5.50pm. This royal villa was designed by Inigo Jones
Admission free; charges for exhibitions. and is a masterpiece of architecture. Daily
Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. www. 10am-5pm. Admission free; charge for guided
nhm.ac.uk. Station: South Kensington. F4. tour. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422.
IMAGE © CHARLOTTE WILLCOX
www.rmg.co.uk. Station: Cutty Sark. Map inset.

THE OLD OPERATING THEATRE
Situated in the roof of a Baroque church, this ROYAL AIR FORCE MUSEUM
was used for Victorian surgery and storing Museum about the RAF with more than
herbal medication. Daily, check for times. Adult 100 aircrafts on show. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission
£6.50; child £3.50. 9a St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. free; charges for special experiences. Grahame
T: 020-7188 2679. www.oldoperatingtheatre.com. Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. www.raf
Station: London Bridge. E10. museum.org.uk. Station: Colindale. Off map.
LP DEC M&G.indd 52 05/11/2019 15:07

TATE BRITAIN
11 S E P 2019 – 2 F E B 2020
The Times
Evening Standard
The Guardian
REB EL
R A DIC A L
RE VO LU TIO N A RY
Supported by
Tate Patrons and Tate Members
Media partner
PIMLICO u
FREE FOR
TAT E M E M B E R S
William Blake ‘Europe’ Plate i:
Frontispiece, ‘The Ancient
of Days’ 1827 (?) (detail)
The Whitworth, The University
of Manchester
Dr Johnson’s House
London’s Theatre of the East

A new exhibition exploring the historical connections
of the Middle East and North Africa and London, via
the lens of Dr Johnson’s 1749 play, Irene, organised in
collaboration with the Arab British Centre.
IMAGE © CHARLOTTE WILLCOX
Open 8th November 2019 – 14 Feb 2020
Free with standard admission charge
17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE

020 7353 3745
www.drjohnsonshouse.org
DECE M B E R 2019 | 53
LP DEC M&G.indd 53 05/11/2019 15:12

VISIT OUR NEW ONLINE GUIDE FOR TRAV
LONDONPLA
Your friend in the city
THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | TRAVEL ESSENTIALS | FIRST VIS
LP DPS WEB FILLER AD.indd 8 31/10/2019 12:26

TRAVEL TIPS, ITINERARIES AND TICKETS
LANNER.COM
FIRST VISIT | ITINERARIES | ASK THE EXPERT | TICKETS AND OFFERS
LP DPS WEB FILLER AD.indd 9 31/10/2019 12:27

Museums & Galleries
SCIENCE MUSEUM HAYWARD GALLERY
Dedicated to science, technology and Home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre
medicine (p. 49). Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; (p. 49). To 26 Jan: Bridget Riley. This British
charges for some exhibits. Exhibition Rd, SW7 artist is known for her perceptual paintings.
2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. www.sciencemuseum. Adult £16.50; child free. Check for times.
org.uk. Station: South Kensington. F4. Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555.
www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Station: Waterloo. F8.
SHERLOCK HOLMES MUSEUM
Dedicated to the fictional detective. Daily THE NATIONAL GALLERY
9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £10. 221b Baker A great gallery with works by European masters.
St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. www.sherlock- Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission
holmes.co.uk. Station: Baker Street. C5. free; charges for special exhibitions. Trafalgar
Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. www.
SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM nationalgallery.org.uk. Station: Charing Cross. E7.
This house was owned by the architect Sir John
Soane. Wed-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Admission NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
free. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020- One of the nation’s most prominent galleries,
7405 2107. www.soane.org. Station: Holborn. D8. more than 150 years old, with artwork of famous
Britons. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm.
SOMERSET HOUSE Admission free; charges for special exhibitions.
This 18th-century building on the Thames houses St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463.
the Embankment Galleries. Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; www.npg.org.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E7.
Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free. Strand,
WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. www.somerset THE QUEEN’S GALLERY
house.org.uk. Station: Temple. E8. This smart gallery adjoins Buckingham Palace.
To 3 May: George IV: Art & Spectacle. Discover
THE VAULT this controversial king and his collection of art.
Part of Hard Rock Cafe, it’s home to rock ‘n’ roll Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £13.50; child £6.70.
memorabilia. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123
free. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, 7301. www.rct.uk. Station: Green Park. F7.
W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. www.hardrock.com.
Station: Hyde Park Corner. E6. ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS
Attractive 18th-century building housing the RA
VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM Collection. In 2018 it underwent a redevelopment.
The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and Sat-Thur 10am-6pm, Fri 10am-10pm. Admission
applied arts spans 3,000 years (p. 48). Sat-Thur free; charges for special exhibitions. 6 Burlington
10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; Gardens, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. www.royal
charges for special exhibitions. Cromwell Rd, academy.org.uk. Station: Green Park. E7.
SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. www.vam.ac.uk.
Station: South Kensington. F4/5. SAATCHI GALLERY
Contemporary art in a huge Georgian building.
WELLCOME COLLECTION To 3 May: Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden
See artefacts on the body. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun Pharaoh. Discover more than 150 artefacts.
10am-6pm; Thur 10am-9pm. Admission free. Check for times. Adult £31.35; child £21.45.
183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY.
www.wellcomecollection.org. Station: Euston. C7. T: 020-7811 3070. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk.
Station: Sloane Square. G5.
GALLERIES
GUILDHALL ART GALLERY TATE MODERN
Paintings collected by the City of World-class, international modern
London. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun During World art in a transformed power station
noon-4pm. Admission free; charges War II, the (p. 49). Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat
National Gallery’s
ICON © ISTOCK
for some exhibits. Guildhall Yard, off 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges
paintings were
Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 evacuated for special exhibitions. Bankside, SE1
3700. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. to Wales 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. www.tate.org.
Station: St Paul’s. D10. uk. Station: Southwark. E9.
LP DEC M&G.indd 56 05/11/2019 15:21

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Discover the secrets
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Experience disused station tours
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LP LTM.indd 1 advertising_Hidden London combinedx3_London Planner_210x137mm_V3.indd 1 31/10/2019
01/11/2019 15:22
11:14
Entertainment
Hamilton
Secret Cinema’s
Stranger Things
Harry Potter and

the Cursed Child
LP DEC ENTS.indd 58 05/11/2019 15:26

BESTE
OF TH
E
Theshowsmustgoon
DECAD
W
hen it comes to London’s theatre scene, the
past 10 years have been a blast. Gone are the
days when you had to choose between dance,
plays and musicals, as the decade has spawned
a whole new category: immersive experiences.
While Secret Cinema got there first in 2007,
theming food, drink and roaming actors around
films, The Vaults launched in 2013 and has
since carved a niche for itself around theatrical
experiences – so visitors have fallen down a rabbit
hole in Alice’s Adventures Underground, been
splashed during spells in Disney’s Fantasia and had
a foul dinner with Roald Dahl’s spiteful characters,
The Twits. The Vaults’ director Kieron Vanstone
says: ‘Immersive work has been going on for
millennia in some guise or another, but it had
a resurgence around 2007 and 2008. This lines
Matilda up with the financial crisis when there was
a lot of doom and gloom – during any depression,
performance traditionally sees a resurgence as
people look to forget their woes and let loose.
‘Going to the theatre can be risky; when you’ve
paid over £20 to watch a show and it’s dull, it’s
off-putting. Immersive theatre gives people the
chance to make their own night out. If they don’t
like the show, that’s OK, because they can talk to
their friends and make their own fun.’
The past decade has also seen more ethnic
minorities taking to the stage. While there’s still
a long way to go until there’s true equality on stage,
two of the decade’s biggest hits include the hip-hop
musical Hamilton with its multiracial cast, and
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child with the
black actress, Noma Dumezweni, playing Hermione.
CINEMA; MATILDA © MANUEL HARLAN; LES MISÉRABLES © JOHAN PERSSON
HAMILTON © MATTHEW MURPHY; STRANGER THINGS COURTESY OF SECRET
While casting directors are becoming more colour

blind, the trend for swapping traditionally male
roles for female ones and vice versa has become
more common, too – and this hasn’t been limited
to Shakespeare, opera or pantomimes. The 2018
musical Company at the Gielgud Theatre starred
Rosalie Craig as Bobbie, which is usually played
by a man. More women are taking to the stage too;
in 2016, The Tempest at the Donmar Warehouse
had an all-female cast, as did Emilia at the
Vaudeville Theatre earlier this year, while
Waitress at the Adelphi Theatre has an all-female
creative team.
Proving that the UK can create worldwide hits, the
decade also saw The Curious Incident of the Dog
in the Night-time and Matilda begin life here,
then continue on Broadway to win Tony Awards.
Our theatre scene deserves a standing ovation.
– Sarah Riches
DECE M B E R 2019 | 59
LP DEC ENTS.indd 59 05/11/2019 15:26

Entertainment
our Central London map (p. 98). Check for venue’s
complete listings. Check for festive hours.
MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES DEAR EVAN HANSEN

& JULIET This follows a teenage boy with social anxiety.
A twist on the famous love story. Check for times. Winner of six Tony Awards. Please check for
Tickets £22.50-£75. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 times and prices. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s
Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. www.delfont
www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Station: Holborn. D8. mackintosh.co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E8.
AMÉLIE THE MUSICAL EVERYBODY’S TALKING ABOUT JAMIE

Based on the Oscar-nominated film about a shy This musical follows a boy who faces prejudice.
waitress. Please check for times. Tickets £19.50- Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets
£65. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. £20-£85. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D
T: 020-7087 7900. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. www.everybodystalking
Station: Victoria. F7. aboutjamie.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E8.
THE BOOK OF MORMON GHOST STORIES

This satire follows missionaries from the Church To 4 Jan: Face your fears, from
of Latter Day Saints. Check for times. Tickets bumps in the night to poltergeists. Mon-Thur & Sat
£29.75-£100. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, 7.30pm; Fri 7pm & 9.30pm; Sat 2.30pm. Tickets
W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. www.bookofmormon from £20. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H
london.com. Station: Leicester Square. E7. 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. www.theambassadors
theatre.co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. D7.
COME FROM AWAY
A remote community in Canada hosts stranded GIRL FROM THE NORTH COUNTRY
passengers after the 9/11 attacks. Mon-Sat From 10 Dec: Set in 1934, this features
7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24-£108. music by Bob Dylan (p. 64). Check for times and
Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H prices. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D
0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. www.phoenixtheatre 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. www.delfontmackintosh.
london.co.uk. Station: Tottenham Court Road. D7. co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E7.
Could it be magic?
The company behind the
hit West End comedies
The Play That Goes Wrong,
The Comedy about a Bank
Robbery and Groan Ups has
worked its magic again with
a new show, Magic Goes Wrong,
at the Vaudeville Theatre
(from 14 Dec; p. 64). With input
from the legendary comical magicians
Penn & Teller, Mischief Theatre
has devised a show about a hapless
group of magicians who perform
MAGIC GOES WRONG © ROBERT DAY
card tricks, chainsaw stunts and

smoke-and-mirror illusions for
charity – but as the accidents start
to spiral out of control, so does their
fundraising target. The show’s
characters might not have the magic
touch, but its actors certainly do.
LP DEC ENTS.indd 60 07/11/2019 13:32

‘A REBORN DREAM
O F A P RO D U C T I O N’ Dominic Cavendish, Daily Telegraph
F O R T H E 2 1 S T C E N T U R Y
Huffington Post
FROM 18 TH DECEMBER 2019

TM © 1986 CMOL
lesmis.com | SONDHEIM THEATRE, LONDON

LP LES MIS.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:29

Entertainment
HAMILTON
This multi award-winning hip-hop
musical follows American founding father,
Alexander Hamilton. Check for times and
prices. Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria St,
SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. www.hamilton
themusical.co.uk. Station: Victoria. F6.
LES MISÉRABLES
The world’s longest-running musical. Check
for times. Tickets £42.25-£177.25. Sondheim
Theatre (formerly Queen’s Theatre), 51
Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160.
www.lesmis.com. Station: Leicester Square. D8.
THE LION KING

Wonderful adaptation of the Disney
film. Check for times. Tickets £23-£200.25.
Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ.
T: 0844-871 3000. www.thelionking.co.uk.
Station: Covent Garden. E8.
MAMMA MIA! THE MUSICAL Dance the night away

A tribute to the popular hits of ABBA. Mon-Sat
7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. Get your skates on and head down to
Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. The O2 to see Disney on Ice Celebrates
www.mamma-mia.com. Station: Covent Garden. E8. 100 Years of Magic (from 26 Dec), a
fun-filled two-hour show which is part
MARY POPPINS of a worldwide tour. Watch a prince throw
Follow the world-famous nanny with Rapunzel in the air, Goofy slide across the
magical powers. Wed 7pm; Thur-Mon 7.30pm; ice on a rubber ring and Pumbaa from
Thur, Sat-Sun 2.30pm. Please check for prices. The Lion King prance about on all fours.
Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D You can also cheer on other Disney favourites
4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. www.delfontmackintosh. such as Mickey and Minnie Mouse, Snow
co.uk. Station: Tottenham Court Road. D7. White, Frozen’s Elsa and the genie from
Aladdin, as they dance on ice to classics
MATILDA THE MUSICAL such as You’ve Got a Friend in Me and Let
Based on Roald Dahl’s book about a girl It Go. The set is minimal, but costumes
with magic powers. Check for times. Tickets and fireworks bring the stories alive.
£20-£122.50. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX.
St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844- 412 4652. www.matilda T: 020-8463 2000. www.theo2.co.uk
themusical.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8.
ONLY FOOLS AND HORSES: THE MUSICAL SCHOOL OF ROCK: THE MUSICAL
A comical musical based on the hit British Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical, based on the
sitcom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. film of the same name. Check for times. Tickets
Tickets £16.80-£175. Theatre Royal Haymarket, £15-£150. Gillian Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane,
IMAGE COURTESY OF DISNEY ON ICE
Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. www.schoolofrock
www.trh.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. themusical.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8.
THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA THRILLER LIVE

A mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael
House. Check for times. Tickets £25-£175. Her Jackson’s career. Please check for times and
Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. prices. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES.
T: 0844-412 2707. www.thephantomofthe T: 0844-482 9674. www.thrillerlive.com.
opera.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
LP DEC ENTS.indd 62 05/11/2019 15:29

T HE BRIL L IA NT ORIG INA L
TM © 1986 RUG Ltd.
AT H E R M AJ E ST Y ’ S T H E AT RE
thephantomoftheopera.com
LP POTO.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:30

Entertainment
Homeward bound
The times they are a-changing indeed,
as Girl from the North Country
returns to London after a stint in
North America, this time to the
Gielgud Theatre (from 10 Dec; p. 60).
Bob Dylan fans can watch a band on
stage perform 20 of his hits including
Like a Rolling Stone, Positively 4th
Street and Desolation Row. The musical
is set in Dylan’s home state, Minnesota,
during the Great Depression. Donald
Sage Mackay stars as a guesthouse
owner in debt, alongside Olivier Award
winner Katie Brayben as his wife with
dementia. Catch the show before it
transfers to Broadway.
TINA – THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL DEATH OF A SALESMAN

Musical based on the life and music of singer Tina Arthur Miller’s 1949 tragedy. Please check for
Turner. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. times and prices. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman
Tickets £10-£159.50. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. www.piccadilly
WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. www.tinathe theatre.org. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
musical.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8.
HARRY POTTER AND THE CURSED CHILD
WAITRESS The long-awaited parts I and II, based
Jenna, an expert pie-maker, dreams of a way out on JK Rowling’s new book, about Harry as a
of her small town. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat father. Most tickets sold out; check for returns
2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£150. Adelphi Theatre, and times. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave,
409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. www.harrypotter
www.waitressthemusical.co.uk. Station: theplay.com. Station: Leicester Square. D7.
Charing Cross. E8.
MAGIC GOES WRONG
WICKED From 14 Dec: Created with magic legends
GIRL FROM THE NORTH COUNTRY © CYLLA VON TIEDEMANN; ICON © ISTOCK
The brilliant back story of the witches Penn & Teller, Mischief Theatre’s latest show
of Oz. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. follows a gang of magicians (p. 60). Tue-Sat
Tickets £24.25-£202.75. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Check for
17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. prices. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R
www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Station: Victoria. F7. 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. www.vaudeville-theatre.
co.uk. Station: Covent Garden. E8.
PLAYS
A CHRISTMAS CAROL THE MOUSETRAP
Paterson Joseph takes the lead as Scrooge A murderer strikes in this whodunnit. Check for
in Charles Dickens’ classic , seasonal tale. times and prices. St Martin’s Theatre, West St,
Check for times. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. www.the-mouse
T: 0844-871 7628. www.oldvictheatre.com. trap.co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. D7.
Station: Waterloo. F9.
PETER PAN GOES WRONG
THE COMEDY ABOUT A BANK ROBBERY From 13 Dec: Mischief Theatre returns
A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks. with this West End hit. 6pm. Check for prices.
Please check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. Alexandra Palace Theatre, Alexandra Palace,
Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 020-8365
T: 0844-815 6131. www.thecomedyaboutabank 2121. www.alexandrapalace.com. Station:
robbery.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. Wood Green, then W3 bus. Off map.
LP DEC ENTS.indd 64 05/11/2019 15:31

‘A RAW MUSICAL
TRIUMPH’
THE TIMES
★★★★★
D A I LY T E L E G R A P H
★★★★★ METRO
★★★★★ THE SUN
★★★★★
D A I LY E X P R E S S
★★★★★ D A I LY M A I L
THERE IS ONLY ONE
THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL

NOW BOOKING UNTIL JUNE 2020
TinaTheMusical.com
LP TINA.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:31

Entertainment
THE PLAY THAT GOES WRONG JEFF WAYNE’S THE WAR
Comedy about a drama society staging a show. OF THE WORLDS
Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Experience the Martian invasion from HG
Tickets £20-£72. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine Wells’ novel The War of the Worlds, which was
St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. www.theplay reinvented as a musical by Jeff Wayne. The
thatgoeswrong.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8. immersive experience includes virtual reality
headsets and costumed characters. Check for
WITNESS FOR THE PROSECUTION times and prices. 56 Leadenhall St, EC3A 2BJ.
This is based on Agatha Christie’s gripping www.dotdot.london. Station: Aldgate. D11.
courtroom drama. Check for times. Tickets from
£10-£79.50. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South MAMMA MIA! THE PARTY
Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. www.witness Actors in costume perform all your favourite
countyhall.com. Station: Waterloo. F8. ABBA songs around you while you drink and
dine. Check for times. Tickets from £151.20.
THE WOMAN IN BLACK The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-
A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel. 856 0202. www.theo2.co.uk. Station: North
Please check for times. Tickets £21.50-£52. Greenwich. Map inset.
Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH.
T: 0844-871 7626. www.thewomaninblack.com. SECRET CINEMA
Station: Covent Garden. D8. Stranger Things. Immersive experience based
on the Netflix series. Check for prices. Secret
IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES location. www.secretcinema.org.
THE CRYSTAL MAZE
Interactive experience based on a TV show with THE WOLF OF WALL STREET
mental and physical puzzles. Check for times To 19 Jan: Dress up and enter the world of Jordan
and prices. The Crystal Maze LIVE Experience Belfort, the real-life stock-market millionaire
London, 22-32 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EJ. whose life became a book and film – and now an
T: 0161-791 0727. www.the-crystal-maze.com. immersive experience. Tickets £59.95. Secret
Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. location. www.immersivewolf.com.
The beat goes on

If you’re a fan of electronic dance music set to visual
effects, then don’t miss Pete Tong Presents Ibiza
Classics at The O2 (13-14 Dec). The Radio 1 DJ returns
to the dome with new songs and popular tracks.
www.theo2.co.uk
PETE TONG © LUKE DYSON; GRAPHICS © ISTOCK
LP DEC ENTS.indd 66 05/11/2019 15:32

‘BELIEVE
THE HYPE’ N EW YO R K POST
THE MUSICAL
MatildaTheMusical.com
#MatildaPose CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU
LP MATILDA.indd 1 04/11/2019 16:24

Entertainment
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL
BARBICAN
13 Dec: BBC Symphony Orchestra and
Venezuelan Rafael Payare. 7.30pm. Tickets
£12-£40. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891.
www.barbican.org.uk. Station: Barbican. C10.
CADOGAN HALL
22 Dec: Carols and Classics with Charles
Dickens. The London Concert Brass and London
Philharmonic Choir are joined by a special guest
reader to celebrate Victorian carols and readings
from A Christmas Carol. Tickets £26-£48.50.
3pm. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730
4500. www.cadoganhall.com. Station: Sloane
Square. G6.
ST JAMES’S PICCADILLY
This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon,
Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm.
St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL.
T: 020-7381 0441. www.sjp.org.uk. Station:
Piccadilly Circus. E7.
ST MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS CHURCH
Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening
concerts and recitals, many of which are free
to attend. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church,
Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100.
www.smitf.org. Station: Charing Cross. E8.
WIGMORE HALL
Intimate Victorian concert venue for chamber
music recitals and lunchtime concerts.
8 Dec: Van Kujik Quartet performs Mozart and
Brahms. 11.30am. Tickets £14-£16. 36 Wigmore
St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. www.wigmore-
hall.org.uk. Station: Bond Street. D6.
CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD

THE JAZZ CAFÉ
This live music venue and club specialises in
jazz and funk. 3 Dec: Dat Brass. 13 Dec: Dub
Pistols. 16 Dec: Chynna. 23 Dec: La La Land:
The Soundtrack. Please check for times and
prices. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514.
www.thejazzcafelondon.com. Station: Camden
Town. Off map.
KINGS PLACE
Arts and cultural centre, covering music and
talks. 20 Dec: Awake Arise – A Christmas Show.
Five English folk musicians perform. 8pm.
Tickets £16.50. Kings Place, 90 York Way,
N1 9AG. T: 020-7520 1490. www.kingsplace.co.uk.
Station: King’s Cross. Off map.
LP DEC ENTS.indd 68 05/11/2019 15:37

dersen
@_pernillean
@msprettyx @KittyLouGray
cool
#LP
SELFIE
Share a London selfie
using our hashtag
and you could be
in the magazine
@LondonPlanner
@LondonPlanner
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bo @suzscoble
LP DEC ENTS.indd 69 05/11/2019 15:38

Entertainment
The circus
comes to town
Just in case you’re bored
of contortionists, acrobats
and trapeze artists, the
superb Circus 1903
will keep you on your
toes when it returns to
the Southbank Centre
(from 19 Dec). Paying
homage to the old-school
circus troupe Barnum &
Bailey, this show is brought
firmly into the 21st century
with dazzling effects, even
using puppets of elephants
from the War Horse group.
THE O2 immersive experience, somewhere between

Enormous venue for live music and big names. a dreamscape, meditation and a nightclub.
1 Dec: Elvis in Concert – Live on Screen. Suitable for over-14s. Please check for times.
9-10 Dec: An Evening with Michael Bublé. Tickets £5. Barbican, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS.
17-20 Dec: Rod Stewart Live in Concert. Check T: 020-7638 8891. www.barbican.org.uk.
for times and prices. Peninsula Square, SE10 Station: Barbican. C10.
0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. www.theo2.co.uk.
Station: North Greenwich. Map inset. ROYAL ALBERT HALL
28-31 Dec: The Nutcracker. The Birmingham
RONNIE SCOTT’S JAZZ CLUB Royal Ballet presents this festive tale. Please
London’s most famous jazz venue. 5-8 Dec: check for times and prices. Royal Albert Hall,
Curtis Stigers. 9-11 Dec: Motown and More... Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212.
With Natalie Williams’ Soul Family. 17-21 Dec: www.royalalberthall.com. Station: South
Ray Gelato & The Giants. Please check for times Kensington. G4.
and prices. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439
0747. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Station: Tottenham ROYAL OPERA HOUSE
Court Road. D7. To 7 Jan: The Sleeping Beauty. This ballet holds
a special place in The Royal Ballet’s repertory
SOUTHBANK CENTRE – it was the ballet with which the Company
20 Dec: Futuretense: Myele Manzanza. The son reopened the Royal Opera House in 1946 after
of a Congolese master percussionist, Manzanza World War II. To 16 Jan: Coppelia. Ninette de
grew up in New Zealand listening to hip-hop, Valois’ charming and funny ballet of love,
jazz and dance music. A powerful drummer and mischief and mechanical dolls is a real festive
composer, he celebrates the release of his album favourite. Check for times and prices. Bow St,
A Love Requited with this free gig. 6pm. WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. www.roh.org.uk.
Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. Station: Covent Garden. D8.
CIRCUS 1903 © MANUEL HARLAN
T: 020-3879 9555. www.southbank centre.co.uk.

Station: Waterloo. E8. SADLER’S WELLS
From 3 Dec: The Red Shoes.
DANCE Choreographed by Matthew Bourne, and based
BARBICAN on Hans Christian Andersen’s fairytale.
To 1 Dec: Heavy Handed, We Check for times and prices. Sadler’s Wells Theatre,
Crush the Moment. Choreographic work that Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000.
features performances by guest artists. It’s an www.sadlerswells.com. Station: Angel. Off map.
LP DEC ENTS.indd 70 05/11/2019 15:39

Explore a London landmark and discover
a star-studded history of performance
020 7959 0558 • royalalberthall.com
RAH_Tours_LondonPlanner_2019_210x137.indd
LP RAH.indd 1 1 17/09/2019 14:59:11
31/10/2019 12:33
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London’s major theatre and music venues can be 24 London Palladium ....... A1 40 Savoy ................................ B2
located on the map above using the grid reference 25 Lyceum ............................ B3 41 Shaftesbury ................... A2
RIVER
in the key below. 26 Lyric ................................. B1 42 Shakespeare’s Globe... D

27 Menier Chocolate 43 Soho Theatre ................. B3
Visit London has a secure online booking service Factory ............................ D 44 Sondheim Theatre
28 National Theatre .......... C3 (from 18 Dec, formerly
for all major current and forthcoming theatre 29 Noël Coward .................. B2 Queen’s Theatre) ..........B1
productions. 30 Novello ............................ A3 45 Theatre Royal
31 Old Red Lion .................. E Drury Lane .....................A3
To book tickets go to www.visitlondon.com 32 Old Vic ............................. C4 46 Theatre Royal
33 Palace ............................... A1 Haymarket ..................... B1
Key to Theatres 34 Phoenix ........................... A1 47 Trafalgar Studios .......... C2
35 Piccadilly ........................ B1 48 Vaudeville ...................... B2
1 Adelphi ............................ B2 13 Duchess ......................A/B3 36 Playhouse ....................... C2 49 Victoria Palace .............. F
2 Ambassadors ................. A2 14 Duke of York’s ............... B2 37 Prince Edward .............. A1 50 Waterloo East Theatre...C4
3 Aldwych .......................... A3 15 Fortune .......................A2/3 38 Prince of Wales ............. B1 51 Wyndham’s .................... B2
4 Apollo Theatre .............. B1 16 Garrick ............................ B2 39 St Martin’s ..................... A2 52 Young Vic ........................ C4
5 Apollo Victoria ............. F 17 Gielgud ............................ A1 Key to Dance, Music and Multi-arts Venues
6 Arts ................................... B2 18 Gillian Lynne ................. A2
7 Barbican Centre ........... G 19 Harold Pinter ................ B1 53 Barbican Hall ................ G 58 St James’s Piccadilly
8 Cambridge ...................... A2 20 Her Majesty’s................. B1 54 London Coliseum ......... B2 church ............................. B1
9 Charing Cross Theatre ..B2 21 King’s Head Theatre ... E 55 Peacock ........................... A3 59 St Martin-in-the-Fields
10 Criterion ......................... B1 22 Leicester Square 56 Ronnie Scott’s ............... A1 church ............................. B2
11 Dominion ....................... A1 Theatre ............................ B1 57 Royal Opera 60 Sadler’s Wells ................ E
12 Donmar Warehouse.... A2 23 Little Angel Theatre .... E House ............................... A2 61 Southbank Centre ........ C3
LP DEC ENTS.indd 72 05/11/2019 15:57

FESTIVALS & EVENTS
CHRISTMAS IN LEICESTER SQUARE In the heart of
Each year, this festival lights up a patch of central
London with a Christmas market, Santa’s grotto
and cabaret tent. Some events are free; check
Leicester Square
for tickets. Leicester Square, WC2H 7JY. T: 020-
7492 9942. www.christmasinleicestersquare.com.
Station: Leicester Square. E7.
CHILDREN & FAMILIES
OSCAR WILDE’S THE Open 7 days
CANTERVILLE GHOST a week
To 5 Jan: Oscar Wilde’s 1887 comic novel is
brought to life with magic, illusions and special
effects. Mr and Mrs Otis and their boisterous
children arrive from the States to move into
Canterville Chase – an old Gothic mansion
haunted by Sir Simon Canterville. Check for
times. Child £12-£22; adult £16-£28. Unicorn
Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645
0560. www.unicorntheatre.com. Station:
London Bridge. Off map.
THE PAPER DOLLS

From 11 Dec: When a girl makes a string
of paper dolls, she takes them by the hand on an
adventure. Adapted from the picture book by
former Children’s Laureate Julia Donaldson and
illustrated by Rebecca Cobb, this show comes
to life with puppets and original music. Suitable
for three to four year olds. Check for times and
prices. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19
1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. www.polkatheatre.com.
Station: Wimbledon. Off map.
THE SNOWMAN
To 5 Jan: Perfect for toddlers, this mime with
music tells the story of a boy who befriends a
snowman. It features the classic tune Walking
in the Air. Check for times and prices. The
Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863
8222. www.sadlerswells.com. Station: Holborn. D8.
THE WOLF, THE DUCK AND THE MOUSE

One day Wolf eats Mouse. Mouse thinks it’s the
end but ends up enjoying life inside Wolf’s belly
after meeting Duck. But when a stalker begins
to hunt Wolf, the three hatch a plan to survive...
Adult £12-£22; child £12-£16. Please check for
times. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ.
T: 020-7645 0560. www.unicorntheatre.com.
Station: London Bridge. E10. Last minute & discount
SIGHTS • ARTS
• SHOPPING •
EATING • ENTERTAINM
THE FREE OFFICIAL

ENT • MAPS
MONTHLY GUIDE
DEC 19 • LONDONPLAN
NER.COM
theatre tickets
FOR MORE PLACES VISIT
BEST OF
THE DECADE
Christmas
From royal
weddings
to
the Olympics
in the CURTAIN
UP!
capital
shows
Immersive hits
and British
SUPER CHEFS
to
le Clare Smyth
Instagrammab Jason Atherton
LONDONPLANNER.COM
cool
hotspots and
New Year’s
Eve parties
FIND YOUR
12:26
04/11/2019
1
LP DEC COVERV1.indd
DECE M B E R 2019 | 73
LP DEC ENTS.indd 73 05/11/2019 15:59

Sport BEST
Sporting glory
O
DECFATHE
DE
N
ot only has it been a decade of victories
for UK talent, I’m proud, too, that London
can claim to be the sporting capital of the
world. The 2012 London Olympics and Andy Murray
at Wimbledon
Paralympics is one that many claim to be the
best ever: Danny Boyle’s triumphant opening
ceremony; the magical 45 minutes on ‘Super
Saturday’; Team GB ending high on the medals isn’t only about following the big clubs. I was at
table. British stars Jessica Ennis, Mo Farah Wembley Stadium in 2013 when my humble team
and Ellie Simmonds cemented themselves as Bradford City (then in League Two) appeared at
household names. I was delighted to cheer on a Wembley Cup Final against Premier League
wheelchair athlete David Weir to one of his many opposition. We lost, but it was a proud day for fans.
gold medals at a rousing Olympic stadium, to a London’s football world rose up another level
soundtrack of David Bowie’s We Could be Heroes. when the state-of-the-art Tottenham Hotspur
I also waved back at the Team GB stars on top Stadium opened its doors to its fans in 2019.
of their open-top bus in a celebratory parade. Not only is the stunning, 62,000-capacity venue
I have enjoyed watching Andy Murray’s tennis staging Spurs’ football games, but the club also
career over the years, especially when he won his signed a long-term deal with the NFL to host
singles title at Wimbledon in 2013; home fans had American football league games.
waited 77 years for a British men’s champion. Another ‘I was there’ moment came in the
When he beat Novak Djokovic, Murray rekindled summer of 2019 when I worked at the ICC
the Brits’ love of the tournament and it led to the Cricket World Cup final, and was part of the
renaming of the spectators’ hill to ‘Murray Mound’. exhilarated crowd watching England beat New
London boasts five Premier League teams, Zealand. I’m wondering if anything can top that!
Chelsea and Arsenal among them. But being a fan – Emma Levine
Queen Elizabeth
Olympic Park
ANDY MURRAY © AELTC; OLYMPIC PARK © ISTOCK; HORSE SHOW © KIT HOUGHTON
LP DEC SPORT.indd 74 05/11/2019 16:03

Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates
for our Central London map (p.98). For more events
and information, see www.visitlondon.com/events.
Check for festive hours.
WATCH
DARTS CHELSEA FC STADIUM TOUR & MUSEUM
13 Dec-1 Jan: World Darts Championships. Self-guided tour. Please check for times and
Alexander Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, prices. Stamford Bridge, Fulham Rd, SW6 1HS.
N22 7AY. T: 020-8365 2121. www.alexandra T: 0371-811 1955. www.chelseafc.com. Station:
palace.com. Station: Alexandra Palace. Off map. Fulham Broadway. Off map.
FOOTBALL LORD’S TOUR & MCC MUSEUM

Premier League fixtures (subject to change): Tour the home of cricket. Booking essential.
4 Dec: Arsenal vs Brighton. 28 Dec: Arsenal vs St John’s Wood Rd, NW8 8QN. T: 020-7616 8595.
Chelsea. Emirates Stadium, see ‘Arsenal Stadium www.lords.org. Station: St John’s Wood. C4.
Tour’ for address.
KIA OVAL GROUND TOURS
14 Dec: Chelsea vs Bournemouth. 26 Dec: Tour the famous cricket ground. Check for times.
Chelsea vs Southampton. Stamford Bridge, Adult £15; child £5. Kennington, SE11 5SS. T: 020-
see ‘Chelsea FC Stadium Tour’ for address. 3946 0100. www.kiaoval.com. Station: Oval. Off map.
7 Dec: Tottenham vs Burnley. 21 Dec: Tottenham TOTTENHAM HOTSPUR STADIUM TOUR

vs Chelsea. 26 Dec: Tottenham vs Brighton. A 90-minute look at the world-class stadium.
Tottenham Hotspur Stadium, see ‘Tottenham Check for times. Adult £30; child £15. 782 High
Hotspur Stadium Tour’ for address. Rd, N17 0BX. T: 020-3929 1882. www.tottenham
hotspur.com/tours. Station: Seven Sisters. Off map.
7 Dec: West Ham United vs Arsenal. 28 Dec:
West Ham United vs Leicester City. London TWICKENHAM WORLD RUGBY
Stadium, Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, MUSEUM & STADIUM TOUR
E20 2ST. T: 020-8548 2748. www.whufc.com. The world’s largest rugby stadium. Check for times.
Adult £25; child £15. Whitton Rd, Twickenham,
TOURS & MUSEUMS TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. www.worldrugby
ARSENAL STADIUM TOUR & MUSEUM museum.com. Station: Twickenham. Off map.
Self-guided audio tours include the changing
rooms and players’ tunnel, plus the museum THE WEMBLEY STADIUM TOUR
with their trophies. Check for times, prices and Huge sports and music venue. Check for times.
legends tours. Drayton Park, N5 1BU. T: 020- Adult £19; child £12. Olympic Way, HA9 0WS.
ANDY MURRAY © AELTC; OLYMPIC PARK © ISTOCK; HORSE SHOW © KIT HOUGHTON
7619 5000. www.arsenal.com. Station: Holloway T: 0800-169 9933. www.wembleystadium.com.

Road/Arsenal/Finsbury Park. Off map. Station: Wembley Park. Off map.
Equine
excellence
Emma Levine, Sport Editor
What happens when you mix equestrianism

with theatre? Answer: you get the much-loved
Olympia London International Horse
Show (16-22 Dec). Expect prestigious events
such as the Dressage World Cup and Olympia
Grand Prix plus fun festive treats including
the Santa Stakes. This year’s headline act is
the Household Cavalry Mounted Regiment
performing the Musical Ride, showing off the
impeccable horsemanship practiced in battle.
www.olympiahorseshow.com
DECE M B E R 2019 | 75
LP DEC SPORT.indd 75 07/11/2019 13:34

Shopping From top to bottom: Coal
Drops Yard; Apple Store on
Regent Street; Lady Gaga
LADY GAGA © WIKICOMMONS/ANDREA WILSON; SAMSUNG KX IMAGE COURTESY OF SAMSUNG KX

BEST
The store-y of the decade
O
DECFATHE
DE
A
s I look back over the past 10 years, it’s crazy Now, more than
to think how much has changed in retail. The ever, shopping is an
start of the decade was memorable for Lady experience and brands are
COAL DROPS YARD © JOHN STURROCK; APPLE STORE © ISTOCK;

Gaga’s statement-making meat dress, but it turning stores into curated
also brought us the launch of the iPad (for which concepts, where cultural events, readings, gigs
the Apple-obsessed queued overnight) and or fitness and wellness sessions can be enjoyed
ushered in a new digital dawn thanks to the arrival alongside a cup of coffee from the (soon-to-be
of Instagram. And nothing has dominated ubiquitous) in-store café. I love a spot of
the decade or my purchasing ‘retail-tainment’ and one of my favourite
decisions quite like social media. destinations is House of Vans’s tunnels in
I know influencers who’ve made Waterloo. Skatepark, art gallery, cinema,
hundreds of thousands of pounds live music – what’s not to love?
pushing products on feeds as part And if the rise of Black Friday, that
of successful collaborations, frenzied November bargain bonanza, is not
forcing any company with a enough to convince you that shopping until
bricks-and-mortar presence we drop will continue for decades, the
in London to raise its game. opening of beautiful retail spaces such
Far from heralding the death as Coal Drops Yard in King’s Cross
of the high street, our ‘have and Eccleston Yards in Victoria
it now’ shopping culture prove that the high street still has
has made retailers wake up fight left in it yet. What’s in store
to the fact that just selling for the future? Bring on 2020.
XXXX
a product is not enough. – Kathryn Conway
LP DEC SHOPPING.indd 76 07/11/2019 13:47

our Central London map (p. 98). Normal opening
hours are between 10am-6pm (Sun 11am-5pm);
some open late on Thur. Check for festive hours.
MAJOR STORES
FORTNUM & MASON
Iconic store established in 1707. 181 Piccadilly,
W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. www.fortnum
andmason.com. Station: Green Park. E7.
HARRODS
Famous store with top fashion labels and
jewellery, plus a food hall. 87-135 Brompton Rd,
SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.harrods.com.
Station: Knightsbridge. F5.
JOHN LEWIS
Hats, gifts, beauty and electrical items. 300 Oxford
St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711.
www.johnlewis.com. Station: Oxford Circus. D6.
LIBERTY
Beauty, haberdashery and unique fabrics. Great
Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234.
www.liberty.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus. D7.
MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS

ICON AT THE O2
LADY GAGA © WIKICOMMONS/ANDREA WILSON; SAMSUNG KX IMAGE COURTESY OF SAMSUNG KX
Discounts on designer brands. The O2, Pensinsula

Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. www.iconat
theo2.co.uk. Station: North Greenwich. Map inset. Futurama
LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET So determined is Samsung to disrupt the
Find discounts of up to 70 per cent off big brands traditional retail environment that its latest
(p. 78). Wembley Park Boulevard, HA9 0QL. T: 020- space in Coal Drops Yard, King’s Cross, is
8912 5210. www.londondesigneroutlet.com. Station: about as far removed from a store as you can
Wembley Park/Wembley Stadium. Off map. get. Doing away with cash points and price
COAL DROPS YARD © JOHN STURROCK; APPLE STORE © ISTOCK;
tags in favour of interactive spaces that

WESTFIELD LONDON showcase the very best innovations from
This huge mall has luxury and high-street shops. the brand, Samsung KX is all about hanging
Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. www.uk. out and having fun. Visitors can make their
westfield.com. Station: Shepherd’s Bush. Map inset. mark on the 10-metre digital graffiti wall,
become a superstar DJ with the tap of a
WESTFIELD STRATFORD CITY smartphone or sit in a ‘connected’ concept
A cinema, bowling and 270 stores. 2 Stratford car and marvel at how checking the contents
Place, Montfichet Rd, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. of the fridge from the driver’s seat will soon
www.uk.westfield.com. Station: Stratford. Map inset. be a reality. With the opportunity to grab a
coffee in the café and solve your digital
SPECIALIST STORES dilemmas in the support lounge, this is
BUCKINGHAM PALACE SHOP experiential shopping at its finest.
Royal souvenirs. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, Upper Level, Coal Drops Yard, N1C 4DQ.
SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. www.royal T: 0330-726 0059. www.samsung.com/uk/kx
collectionshop.co.uk. Station: Victoria. F6.
XXXX
OCTOB E R 2019 | 77

Shopping
HAMLEYS
One of the world’s biggest, most varied toy shops.
188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0371-704 1977.
www.hamleys.com. Station: Oxford Circus. D7.
THE HARRY POTTER SHOP

AT PLATFORM 9¾
Souvenirs and collectibles. King’s Cross Station,
N1 9AP. T: 020-3196 7375. www.harrypotter
platform934.com. Station: King’s Cross. C8. A jackpot shopping
experience
ROCK SHOP – OLD PARK LANE
Hard Rock clothing and accessories. 1 Old Park If you’ve looked at your bank balance and
Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. www.shop. stared the reality of your festive spending
hardrock.com. Station: Hyde Park Corner. F6. frenzy in the face, you’ll be keen for a savvier
approach to Christmas gifting. Thankfully,
ROCK SHOP – PICCADILLY CIRCUS the London Designer Outlet (p. 77) in
The world’s largest Hard Rock store has a huge Wembley Park is just the place to ensure
range of lines. 225-229 Piccadilly, W1J 9HR. you can still play Santa. Brands such as
T: 020-7287 4600. www.shop.hardrock.com. Adidas, Clarks, Denby and Superdry all
Station: Piccadilly Circus. F6. have stores offering discounts of up to
70 per cent, allowing you to splash out on
IT’S ONLY ROCK ‘N’ ROLL a plethora of presents to pop under the
Shop selling rock memorabilia. 230 Baker St, tree. What’s more, from 2 Dec, shoppers
NW1 5RT. T: 020-7224 0277. www.itsonlyrock who spend £40 or more in a single
nrolllondon.co.uk. Station: Baker Street. C5. transaction will receive a scratch card
that could win one of hundreds of prizes.
JAPAN CENTRE You can also have your shopping delivered
Japanese food and ceramics. 35b Panton St, to your home or hotel courtesy of LDO’s
SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 1246. www.japan Dropit service, leaving you free to dine
centre.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. in one of the restaurants, watch a film at
ICON © ISTOCK; LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET
the multiplex or catch a show at The SSE
LONDON BEATLES STORE Arena. Go on, it’s Christmas!
London’s only Beatles shop stocks new and
vintage memorabilia, T-shirts and accessories.
231-233 Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7935 4464. TWININGS
www.beatlesstorelondon.co.uk. Station: Browse numerous teas and infusions at one
Baker Street. D5. of London’s oldest shops. Includes a small
exhibition on the history of the company.
LONDON GLASSBLOWING STUDIO 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511.
See glass art being created. 62-66 Bermondsey www.twinings.co.uk. Station: Temple. D8.
St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. www.london
glassblowing.co.uk. Station: London Bridge. F11. WE BUILT THIS CITY
Quirky spin on classic souvenirs. Pieces include
THE NOBLE COLLECTION illustrated maps of London. 56 Carnaby
Licensed, finely crafted treasures from St, W1F 9QF. T: 020-3642 9650.
Harry Potter and The Lord of the Rings. www.webuilt-thiscity.com. Station:
26-28 Neal St, WC2H 9PS. T: 020-3795 Oxford Circus. D7.
6298. www.noblecollection.co.uk.
Station: Covent Garden. D8. Liberty opened THE WHISKY EXCHANGE
in 1875, after Browse a range of whiskies and fine
RED BUS SHOP Arthur Lasenby spirits, with more than 1,000 varieties
Souvenir gift shop with London-themed Liberty in stock. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH.
merchandise. 59-61 York Rd, SE1 7NJ borrowed T: 020-7403 8688. www.thewhisky
£2,000 from his
(and branches). T: 020-7401 7033. www. father-in-law exchange.com. Station: Charing
redbusshop.co.uk. Station: Waterloo. F8. Cross. E8.

ICON © ISTOCK; LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET
LP DEC SHOPPING.indd 79
DECE M B E R 2019 |
79
05/11/2019 16:14
Eating out Avobar London
Café
Forty One
BEST
Dining of the decade
O
DECFATHE
DE
L
ondon is known for bucking the Cumberbatch. So make like Beyoncé
trend when it comes to fashion, and visit Café Forty One, a vegan
art and technology – and in the restaurant in La Suite West hotel
past decade, it’s been making near Hyde Park. Dishes include
waves on the dining scene too. gnocchi pesto, fruit crumble and
Cast your mind back to 2009, afternoon tea (www.lasuitewest.com).
when avocados were a humble fruit. The past decade has also shone a
In the past 10 years, they’ve morphed spotlight on one of Gordon Ramsay’s
into a superfood, an emoji and an protégés, chef Jason Atherton. His
Instagrammable breakfast – as well first restaurant, Pollen Street Social,
as the star ingredient at Avobar was awarded a Michelin star in its
London in Covent Garden. opening year in 2011 and he now has
With its pergola ceiling, potted plants three more Michelin-starred eateries,
COURTESY OF CAFÉ FORTY ONE; CLARE SMYTH COURTESY OF CORE
and palm prints on the walls, the café’s including Social Eating House
MAIN IMAGE COURTESY OF AVOBAR LONDON; AFTERNOON TEA
interior is as on-trend as its menu, and City Social. He’s just opened
Clare which features #avotoast (naturally) The Betterment at The Biltmore
Smyth alongside bowls of avocado tuna poké Mayfair (www.jasonatherton.co.uk).
and a sweet potato and red lentil Atherton’s contemporary Clare
burger – with a ‘bun’ made from Smyth, meanwhile, has pioneered the
avocado. Leave space for dessert decade’s movement for female chefs,
– avocado cheesecake, of course along with Monica Galetti and Sarah
(www.avobar.co.uk). Barber. After working with Gordon
Avocado isn’t the only Ramsay, Smyth became Britain’s first
trend of the decade, which female chef to retain three Michelin
has also seen veganism stars. Her first restaurant, Core by
rocket from a niche diet Clare Smyth in Notting Hill, has two
followed by your hippy Michelin stars and came in at number
aunt to a mainstream one four in this year’s National Restaurant
loved by everyone from Awards (www.corebyclaresmyth.com).
Beyoncé to Benedict – Sarah Riches
LP DEC EATING OUT.indd 80 05/11/2019 16:20

AFtErNOON TEA
Traditional afternoon tea served in the Royal Albert Hall.
Tuesday - Sunday 1:00pm - 4:00pm.
royalalberthall.com | 020 7589 8212
ADVERTORIAL
AUTHENTIC THAI CUISINE
at the award winning
THAI POT since 1992
Awarded:
COURTESY OF CAFÉ FORTY ONE; CLARE SMYTH COURTESY OF CORE
Authentic Thai Food –

MAIN IMAGE COURTESY OF AVOBAR LONDON; AFTERNOON TEA
EL PIRATA Ministry of
Commerce, Thailand
For more than 25 years, El Pirata has hit the 4 stars –
spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Master Chef UK
Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Thai Select Award –
Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste Department of Export
Promotion, Ministry of
of the Mediterranean. Informal, inexpensive Commerce, Thailand
and above all, authentic – the restaurant uses
the finest Spanish produce, including jamón 1 Bedfordbury,
ibérico. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Covent Garden,
Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous London WC2N 4BP
020 7379 4580
in their praise of this ‘Spanish gem’. behind ENO, Coliseum,
www.thaipot.biz Ë Charing Cross Station
5-6 Down Street, Mayfair, W1 7AQ. (Covent Garden exit)
020 7491 3810/020 7409 1315. 4 stars restaurant at 2 stars price!
www.elpirata.co.uk. Green Park. Map C5
– food and service others talk about –
DECE M B E R 2019 | 81

our Central London map (p. 98). Prices shown are
for a three-course meal. £: up to £20 per person. ££:
£20-£40 per person. £££: £40 or more per person.
Check for festive hours.
Review
A slice of Sicily
The Stafford London in St James’s has opened a
new restaurant and cocktail bar, Norma, off-site in
a former townhouse in Fitzrovia, which specialises in
Arabian-influenced Sicilian cuisine. A window display of clams, oysters and red prawns on ice
will draw you in, but you’ll stay for its pasta, grilled meat and fish – try the tagliolini with sardines
or beef bavette, followed by honey gelato with orange flower water or slow-cooked figs and ricotta.
Like the menu, the interior is inspired by Sicily’s café culture, with arches and geometric tiles.
8 Charlotte St, W1T 2LS. T: 020-3995 6224. www.normalondon.com
AMERICAS BRITISH
BUBBA GUMP SHRIMP CO. CAFÉ IN THE CRYPT
This fun seafood restaurant is themed around the Under a church, this serves hearty food. Mon-Sat
film Forrest Gump. Daily L & D. ££. 13 Coventry B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. £. St Martin-in-the-Fields,
St, W1D 7AB. T: 020-3763 5288. www.bubbagump Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158.
shrimp.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. www.smitf.org. Station: Charing Cross. E8.
HARD ROCK CAFE LONDON CHENESTON’S RESTAURANT

The original London branch is decorated with Smart venue offering a classic menu. Daily B, L
rock memorabilia. Daily L & D. ££. 150 Old Park & D. £££. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington
Lane, W1K 1QZ (and branch). T: 020-7514 1700. Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. www.milestone
www.hardrock.com. Station: Hyde Park Corner. E6. hotel.com. Station: High Street Kensington. Off map.
HARD ROCK CAFE PICCADILLY ST PANCRAS BRASSERIE

Rock memorabilia and a menu including nachos Dining room with a Champagne bar. Daily B, L & D.
and ribs. Daily L & D. ££. Criterion Building, ££. Upper Concourse, St Pancras International,
225-229 Piccadilly, W1J 9HR. T: 020-7287 4600. N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. www.searcys.co.uk.
www.hardrock.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras. C7/8.
PLANET HOLLYWOOD SOPHIE’S STEAKHOUSE & BAR

Hollywood-inspired dining with an This modern steakhouse has an open kitchen.
NORMA © KRIS KIRKHAM PHOTOGRAPHY
international menu plus film memorabilia. Daily Daily L & D. ££. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D
L & D (bar to 1am). ££. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 7ND (and Chelsea). T: 020-7836 8836. www.sophies
4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. www.planethollywood steakhouse.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
london.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
CHINESE
RAINFOREST CAFE DIM T
This mock rainforest has animatronic Dine on dim sum while looking out over Tower
animals. Daily L & D. ££. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, Bridge. Daily L & D. £. 2 More London Place, Tooley
W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. www.therain St, SE1 2DB (and branches). T: 020-7403 7000.
forestcafe.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. www.dimt.co.uk. Station: London Bridge. E11.

London ’ s Finest Fr es h
Fis h & Chips S ince 1 9 5 6
4 9 - 5 1 Lisson G rove
London NW 1 6 UH
Tel : 0 2 0 7 2 2 4 9 0 0 0
s eas hellr estaur ant . co . uk
seashellrestaurant
R estaur ant – Bar – TakeAway – Pr ivate Dining Room
VISIT OUR NEW ONLINE GUIDE FOR TRAVEL TIPS, ITINERARIES AND TICKETS
LONDONPLANNER.COM
Your friend in the city
NORMA © KRIS KIRKHAM PHOTOGRAPHY
THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

DECE M B E R 2019 | 83
LP DEC EATING
SINGLE ( and OUT.indd
half ) PAGE83
WEB FILLER AD.indd 9 05/11/2019
15/01/2019 16:31
14:02
Eating Out
FISH & SEAFOOD INDIAN
SEA SHELL AMAYA
This decades-old restaurant with an aquarium This Michelin-starred restaurant has an open
serves fish and chips. Daily L & D. ££. 49-51 Lisson grill kitchen. Daily L & D. £££. Halkin Arcade,
Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. www.sea 19 Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166.
shellrestaurant.co.uk. Station: Marylebone. C5. www.amaya.biz. Station: Knightsbridge. F6.
GASTROPUBS CHUTNEY MARY

BEAR & STAFF Fine-dining restaurant with contemporary
Comfort pub food. Daily B, L & D. £-££. 10-12 Bear dishes and a glamorous bar. Daily L & D. ££.
St, WC2H 7AX. T: 020-7321 0814. www.nicholsons 73 St James’s St, SW1A 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688.
pubs.co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E7. www.chutneymary.com. Station: Green Park. E7.
THE PORCUPINE FARZI CAFÉ

This pub is known for its real ale and roasts. New bistro serving fusion Indian dishes (p. 86).
Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L & D. £-££. 48 Charing Daily L & D. ££-£££. 8 Haymarket, SW1Y 4BP.
Cross Rd, WC2H 0BS. T: 020-7379 9855. www. T: 020-3981 0090. www.farzilondon.com.
nicholsonspubs.co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
WHITE HORSE MASALA ZONE

Head here for its popular lunchtime buffet. A vibrant place that serves street food and thalis.
Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L & D. £-££. 16 Newburgh Daily L & D. £. 48 Floral St, WC2E 9DA (and
St, W1F 7RY. T: 020-7494 9748. www.nicholsons branches). T: 020-7379 0101. www.masalazone.com.
pubs.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus. D7. Station: Covent Garden. D8.
WHITE SWAN VEERASWAMY

Enjoy fish and chips, grilled dishes and mezze. The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant has a Michelin
Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L & D. £-££. 14 New Row, star. Daily L & D. £££. 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS.
WC2N 4LF. T: 020-3077 1129. www.nicholsons T: 020-7734 1401. www.veeraswamy.com.
pubs.co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E8. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7
Big cheese
Review
Warm up this winter at Heritage, Soho’s new Swiss
restaurant. Enjoy classic sharing dishes such as fondue with
pickles, vegetables or sausages, and cook beef or king prawns
on a charcoal grill at your table. Its 200-strong wine
collection includes some labels from the Alps. Dip
marshmallows, strawberries and brownies in chocolate
fondue – unless you fancy the cheese board, that is.
18-20 Rupert St, W1D 6DE. T: 020-3995 7500.
www.heritagerestaurant.co.uk
IMAGES COURTESY OF HERITAGE

LP VB.indd 1 31/10/2019 12:41
Eating Out
GRANAIO
Review This spacious restaurant serves Italian
classics in grand surroundings. Daily L & D. ££.
224 Piccadilly, W1J 9HP. T: 020-7930 1459. www.
Top of the food chain ristorantegranaio.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly. E7.
VERDI ITALIAN KITCHEN

Floor-to-ceiling arched windows, velvet Dine on pizzas and pasta or afternoon tea. Tue-Sun
banquettes and pendant lighting make Wild L & D. ££. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, Kensington
Honey look like a European café. Located in Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. www.royalalbert
Sofitel St James, it is run by head chef Simon hall.com/verdi. Station: South Kensington. F4.
Woodrow. While it serves breakfast, it’s also
FARZI CAFÉ COURTESY OF FARZI CAFÉ; WILD HONEY © MING TANG EVANS
suitable for business lunches and romantic WILDWOOD
dinners. Its European menu stars bouillabaisse, Tuck into pasta, pizza and risotto. Daily L & D.
barbecued quail with roast carrots and freekeh £-££. 35-36 Bow St, WC2E 7AU (and branches).
wheat or, on Sundays, roast partridge. If you T: 020-7836 8640. www.wildwoodrestaurants.
have a sweet tooth, linger over a special cocktail co.uk. Station: Covent Garden. E8.
at the bar or honeycomb ice cream, made with
honey chipped from a beehive screen. JAPANESE
8 Pall Mall, SW1Y 5NG. T: 020-7968 2900. BENIHANA
www.wildhoneystjames.co.uk Chefs grill dishes at your table in a
theatrical style. Daily L & D. £££. 37 Sackville
St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525.
INTERNATIONAL www.benihana.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
THE CAVENDISH
Enjoy a wide variety of Mediterranean dishes in ICHIBA
this elegant Mayfair venue, including dry aged rib Casual spot for tasty ramen and noodles. Daily,
eye steak. Daily L & D. ££-£££. 35 New Cavendish check for times. £. Level 2, Westfield London,
St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. www.35new W12 7HB. T: 020-3405 9410. www.ichiba
cavendish.co.uk. Station: Baker Street. D6. london.com. Station: White City. Map inset.
THE TERRACE
East meets west Review
This restaurant and bar dates back 150 years and
has glorious views overlooking the Strand.
Daily B, L & D. ££. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Following the taste of success with Farzi Café
Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. www.amba- (p. 84), opening in locations including Dubai
hotel.com. Station: Charing Cross. E8. and India, founder Zorawar Kalra has made the
jump to Blighty. His modern Indian bistro is in
ITALIAN the ideal spot for pre- or post-theatre dining
CAFFÈ CONCERTO (it’s opposite The Phantom of the Opera), while
This popular chain of smart cafés has just its glamorous interior would also appeal for
refurbished its Kensington branch. Daily B, a cocktail stop. This is filling food, so choose
L & D. ££. 88 Kensington High St, W8 4SG (and gingerly unless you’re ravenous. Meat lovers
branches). T: 020-7494 6850. www.caffeconcerto. will be thrilled with options such as butter-
co.uk. Station: High Street Kensington. Off map. roast beef marrow and flame-grilled lamb
chops, while our smoked aubergine bharta
86 | LON DON PLAN N E R was a satisfying lighter option.

SAKAGURA
Izakaya-style ‘Japanese pub’. Daily L & D. ££.
8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. www.
sakaguralondon.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
RIVERSIDE
BATEAUX LONDON
See the sights on a river cruise. Afternoon tea is
also served. Daily L & D; Sun L. £££. Embankment
Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. www.bateaux
london.com. Station: Embankment. E8.
LONDON SHOWBOAT
Have lunch, afternoon tea or dinner on a boat. £££.
Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400.
www.citycruises.com. Station: Westminster. F8. HOLLYWOOD INSPIRED DINING
R.S. HISPANIOLA
Moored restaurant boat. Daily L & D. ££. Victoria
Embankment, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011.
www.hispaniola.co.uk. Station: Embankment. E8.
SOUTH EAST ASIAN
MANGO TREE
Upmarket Thai restaurant. Daily L & D. ££-£££.
FARZI CAFÉ COURTESY OF FARZI CAFÉ; WILD HONEY © MING TANG EVANS
46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888.

www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria. F6.
THAI POT EAT, DRINK AND FEEL FAMOUS

This casual spot offers good-value dishes. Mon-Sat AT PLANET HOLLYWOOD LONDON
L & D. £. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 OFFERING A UNIQUE FAMILY
4580. www.thaipot.biz. Station: Covent Garden. E8. DINING EXPERIENCE
YUU KITCHEN PRESENT ADVERT TO SERVER BEFORE ORDERING
20% OFF
Sharing plates inspired by Eastern cuisine.
Mon-Tue D; Wed-Sun L & D. £-££. 29 Commercial
St, E1 6NE (and branches). T: 020-7377 0411. www.
yuukitchen.com. Station: Aldgate East. Off map.
FOOD, SOFT DRINKS + MERCHANDISE*
SPANISH
EL PIRATA
Much-loved tapas restaurant and bar. Mon-Fri L TO BOOK PLEASE CALL
& D; Sat D. ££. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 020 7287 1000
3810. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Green Park. E6. planethollywoodlondon.com
iew
57-60 HAYMARKET
LONDON SW1Y 4QX
Nearest underground: Piccadilly Circus or Leicester Sq
*Discount applicable to a la carte menu (excluding kids’

meal deal) paying by cash or card only. Valid until 31/3/20
except for December 25th and 31st. Not valid in conjunction
with any other offer. Subject to availability. 1 voucher per
table max. 8 guests. Code LPlan.
NEW YEAR’S EVE BOOGIE NIGHTS

Includes 4 course meal plus welcome drink from £55
to £95 per person. Live band and DJ, lookalikes and
photobooth. Book early for best availability.
DECE M B E R 2019 | 87

Nightlife
BEST
Toasts of the town OF
DECATHDE
E
I
f the 1980s nightlife scene was all Peach
Schnapps, blue cocktails and Slippery Nipple
shots, the ’90s were Malibu and coke and the
alcopop Hooch, while the early millennium was
defined by craft beer and cocktails using house-
made syrups and decorated with petals.
So that brings us to 2010, when cocktails were
served in anything but a normal glass. Champagne
flutes were out, while tea cups, jam jars and vintage
milk jugs were well and truly in. At Purl, a speakeasy
bar in Marylebone, I once had a cocktail served in
test tubes and another that arrived with a balloon
which, when popped, released flavoured mist. I also
sipped from a glass bird in a birdcage in
Vijay’s Lounge above the Indian
restaurant Lokhandwala in
Fitzrovia (www.purl-london.com;
www.lokhandwala.co.uk).
The rise of craft beer led to an
increase in microbreweries
– independent breweries
that produce small batches.
BIRD COCKTAIL COURTESY OF VIJAY’S LOUNGE; THE GINSTITUTE © JUSTIN GARDNER;

BEER COURTESY OF FOURPURE BREWING CO; LIQUOR LANES COURTESY OF QUEENS
The Goodness Brewing Above: Vijay’s Lounge Left: The Ginstitute
Company, near Alexandra Below: Fourpure Brewing Co
Palace, is among the newest.
Co-director Zack Ahmed says:
‘There has been an explosion of
microbreweries, with more than 100 in
London alone. Try Sunset, a red ale that’s nice
on cold evenings’ (www.thegoodnessbrew.co).
If you’d like to go on a beer crawl, head to the ‘beer
mile’ in Bermondsey, which is home to about 20
microbreweries, from Southwark Brewing Co
to Fourpure Brewing Co (www.southwark
brewing.co.uk; www.fourpure.com).
The past decade has also seen a ‘ginaissance’.
While the juniper-based spirit isn’t new, sales of
gin nearly doubled between 2016 and 2018. Over a
gin and tonic at The Ginstitute, a gin workshop on
Portobello Road, you will learn how gin was originally
used as medicine, how it’s made and how botanicals
define its flavour. You’ll then make your own recipe
and take home the bottle (www.theginstitute.com).
Non-alcoholic drinks are an emerging trend, too.
Redemption (branches across town) has a huge
list of mocktails, as well as vegan food that is free
from sugar and wheat (www.redemptionbar.co.uk).
XXXXX
– Sarah Riches
LP DEC NIGHTLIFE.indd 88 05/11/2019 16:45

INFO Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most clubs are
open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18
years old. ID may be required. Letters at end of
listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates for our Central
London map (p. 98). Check for festive hours.
BARS & CLUBS

THE BACK ROOM
Next door to the Hard Rock Cafe, this bar has
vintage and iconic music memorabilia, including
a door from Apple Studios signed by The Beatles.
Xxxxxxx
www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ.
T: 020-7514 1700. Station: Hyde Park Corner. E6.
Drinks at the rink BELOW ZERO ICE BAR

Wrap up in faux fur capes and gloves at this
Sarah Riches, Nightlife Editor basement bar made from ice. Entry price includes
a cocktail served in an ice glass. 31-33 Heddon St,
Instead of curling up indoors this winter, try W1B 4BN. T: 020-7478 8917. www.belowzeroice
curling on ice at Queens instead. As well as bar.com. Station: Oxford Circus. E7.
ice skating and ice karting (adults only), you
can shoot pucks across a rink with a stick. CITY GARDEN BAR
Prefer dry land? Then play pool, air hockey, This bar, on the roof of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ building,
darts or retro games such as Pac-Man. The has spectacular views and a three-storey, tiered
venue has 12 bowling lanes, plus five ‘Liquor garden. Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF.
Lanes’ (with private bars). Alternatively, T: 0333-772 0020. www.skygarden.london.
watch the action from the new bar, Sin Bin. Station: Monument. D11/E11.
Try a Shooting from the Hip, a tequila and
citrus cocktail. 17 Queensway, W2 4QP. GORDON’S WINE BAR
T: 020-7229 0172. www.queens.london Enjoy a big selection of global wines in this brick-
walled basement, which opened in 1890. 47 Villiers
St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. www.gordons
TRADITIONAL PUBS winebar.com. Station: Charing Cross. E8.
MAGPIE & STUMP
BIRD COCKTAIL COURTESY OF VIJAY’S LOUNGE; THE GINSTITUTE © JUSTIN GARDNER;
BEER COURTESY OF FOURPURE BREWING CO; LIQUOR LANES COURTESY OF QUEENS
te This cosy pub dates back to the 1500s. Mon-Fri. LIVE ENTERTAINMENT
18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. RONNIE SCOTT’S
www.magpieandstump.com. Station: St Paul’s. D10. Soho jazz club with nightly performances. 47 Frith
St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. www.ronnie
WAXY O’CONNOR’S scotts.co.uk. Station: Tottenham Court Road. D7.
Huge Irish-themed pub with live music, food
menu and four bars. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. CASINOS
T: 020-7287 0255. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. CASINO AT THE EMPIRE
Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. Play poker, table and electronic games, drink at
the bar and dine on contemporary Asian cuisine.
WAXY’S LITTLE SISTER Open 24 hours daily. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H
A smaller, slightly quieter sister venue to the 7NA. T: 020-3432 0594. www.thecasinolsq.com.
huge Waxy’s (above), which has traditional Irish Station: Leicester Square. E7.
beers and whiskies plus great bar food. 20 Wardour
St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. www.waxy HIPPODROME CASINO
oconnors.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. This landmark 24-hour venue has gaming over
three floors, a Boozy Tea Room bar inspired by
YE OLDE CHESHIRE CHEESE the film Magic Mike and Heliot, a steak restaurant.
Expect snug 17th-century rooms and narrow Cranbourn St, off Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH.
passageways. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020- T: 020-7769 8888. www.hippodromecasino.com.
7353 6170. Station: Blackfriars. D9. Station: Leicester Square. E7.
XXXXX
LP DEC NIGHTLIFE.indd 89 05/11/2019 16:45

BritainPlanner
FIND YOUR
Britain’s best-loved
towns and cities.
In partnership
with VisitBritain
A new dawn
Fancy a New Year’s Eve that’s a little
bit different? Rosie Collins discovers
some unusual ways to welcome in 2020
B
ored of the classic New Year’s Eve
countdown and fireworks displays? Fear
not, because there are plenty of utterly
bonkers traditions still going strong all around
the UK that you can dip your toe into to shake up
your festivities. Here are a few of our favourites.
Sunrise at Glastonbury Tor

If you’re of the mindset that Glastonbury’s only
claim to fame is the music festival, you couldn’t
be more wrong. The Tor, or hill, is topped with
St Michael’s Tower, which was firmly attached
to St Michael’s Church until the Dissolution of
the Monasteries in 1539. This was the spot where
Richard Whiting, the last Abbot of Glastonbury
Abbey, was hanged, drawn and quartered with
two of his monks. Very cheery. The Tor itself is
peppered throughout Britain’s ancient history,
cropping up in a number of myths. Celtic legend
says that beneath the hill there is a hidden
cave that leads into the fairy realm of Annwn,
where the lord of the Celtic underworld, Gwyn
ap Nudd, resides. Legend also says that King
Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table
visited Glastonbury Tor, otherwise known as
GLASTONBURY TOR IMAGES © ISTOCK
‘The Isle of Avalon’. It provides the perfect spot

for looking out over the Somerset Levels and
any surrounding fireworks displays, or simply
for a spot of stargazing. But the crown jewel of
this place is the sunrise on New Year’s Day. So
hunker down with hats, gloves, loved ones and
a hip flask of something warming, pray for clear
skies and proceed to marvel at nature from one
of the UK’s most magical spots.
www.nationaltrust.org.uk
LP DEC BRITAIN PLANNER.indd 90 05/11/2019 16:46

St Michael’s Tower at the
top of Glastonbury Tor
DECE M B E R 2019 | 91

FIND YOUR
Britain Planner
Stonehaven Fireballs Festival barrels filled with burning hot tar on their heads
Fireworks are a long-time tradition of New Year’s in a colourful procession through the town.
Eve, but the Scottish history books provide These gentlemen are traditionally known as
something a little more exciting – fireballs! Just ‘guisers’ and they must have been born in the
south of Aberdeen on Scotland’s northeastern Allen Valleys to participate. There has only
coast lies the usually quiet fishing town of been one documented occasion of a woman
Stonehaven. However, during ‘Hogmanay’ (the carrying a barrel and that was in the 1950s,
Scottish word for the last day of the year), it comes when ‘one of a pair of maiden sisters’ were
alive for the Stonehaven Fireballs Festival. permitted to partake as a thank you for all
It is thought that the tradition stems from the of the costumes they made for the guisers,
19th-century ritual of fishermen using flames some of which are still in use. The procession
to ward off evil spirits, hoping for a year of good culminates at midnight in the town centre,
fishing. Until the mid-20th century, participation where the barrels are thrown into the Bar’l
was exclusive to Stonehaven residents. When Fire, and so lighting the ceremonial bonfire.
midnight strikes on 31 December, a large group Meanwhile, the crowds chant ‘be damned to
of kilted Scots takes to the streets, swinging he who throws last’ in a very exciting, non-culty
balls of flame on long chains. Led by a band of way. This fiery event is accompanied by a great
bagpipers, they head through the town to the deal of traditional music and merriment,
harbour, where the fireballs are thrown into the and Northumberland Fire and Rescue are
sea. The celebration concludes with a fireworks on standby, just in case – though apparently
display, lots of music and jovial revelry. If you’re they have never been called on to deal with an
a fan of hammer-throwing competitions and incident at the event. Fingers crossed… or Bar’l.
sparklers, this is the event for you. Don’t worry www.visitnorthumberland.com
TAR BAR’L © NEIL DENHAM; SAUNDERSFOOT

if you can’t be there in the flesh though – the town
kindly sets up a webcam so fireball enthusiasts Saundersfoot New Year’s Day Swim
can tune in from all around the world. While many of us will be slipping into
© GARETH DAVIES PHOTOGRAPHY

www.stonehavenfireballs.co.uk something with an elasticated waistband ready
to indulge in further festivities, other eccentrics
Allendale Tar Bar’l are getting out their swimming gear. The bizarre
Seriously, what would New Year’s Eve be without Saundersfoot New Year’s Day Swim will be
copious amounts of fire? The Tar Bar’l is another celebrating its 36th year and thousands of
example of a raucous festival to tempt even the people are expected to take to the waters of
most disciplined pyromaniacs. The ceremony, Saundersfoot in Pembrokeshire, southwest
which has been celebrated for at least 160 years Wales, wearing fancy
(though many people believe it was started in dress on New Year’s
the Middle Ages), sees 45 men carry whisky Day morning. The
This page: Allendale Tar Bar’l

This page: Saundersfoot
New Year’s Day Swim
TAR BAR’L © NEIL DENHAM; SAUNDERSFOOT
© GARETH DAVIES PHOTOGRAPHY
first swim took place in 1984 and was meant to be

a one-off event to raise money for the swimming
team’s new sports club changing rooms, but it has
since turned into a bracing tradition. In 2019, a
record-breaking 2,119 swimmers braved the chilly
waters while thousands of spectators turned out
to cheer them on. It starts with a much-needed
warm-up on the beach before everyone dashes
into the water. This year, the event raised £57,000
for charity. So get kitted out in fancy dress
(there’s a new theme each year and a costume
competition) and brave the waves before drying
off and warming up with a glass of mulled cider.
www.saundersfootnyds.co.uk
Quickest times by train from London:

To Glastonbury: 3hrs 15mins
To Stonehaven: 6hrs
To Allendale: 5hrs
To Saundersfoot: 5hrs
DECE M B E R 2019 | 93

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Oyster cards
& Travelcards
An Oyster card is a pre-paid
travel smart card. Use it for
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tram, DLR, London Overground
and most National Rail train
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shop.tfl.gov.uk. The system
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Getting around
Buy Oyster cards and
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their travel with a UK-issued website www.tfl.gov.uk/ debit card. For more info, visit
contactless debit card. For more visitinglondon or call www.tfl.gov.uk/buses. Single
information, see www.tfl.gov. T: 0343-222 1234. fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card
uk/visitinglondon. or UK-issued contactless card,
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single journeys on all Thames
Clippers river buses. For is £4.90 (£2.40 Oyster). T: 020-7363 9700. Trains
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London Pass offers free entry and
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pay cash on the bus, so use an Visit www.tfl.gov.uk.
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Please check before you travel at www.tfl.gov.uk.
Check for festive hours
Airports
Heathrow Airport
T: 0844-335 1801. www.heathrowairport.com.
London Underground: Direct trains to/from
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via Piccadilly Line. Journey time 60 minutes.
Heathrow Express: Four direct trains an hour to/
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National Express: Three coaches per hour to/from
TRAINS Victoria Coach Station. Journey time 45 minutes.
Paddington serves the West Country,
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Cross St Pancras Marylebone and International (connects to King’s Cross St
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King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north, trains to/from Victoria every 15 minutes.
central and southeast Britain. The journey takes about 30 minutes. Southern
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Waterloo and Victoria serve every 15 minutes. The journey takes 30 minutes.
southern England. T: 0845-748 4950. National Express: Direct coaches to/from
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St Pancras. Go to www.eurostar.com. UK: T:
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T: 020-7646 0088. www.londoncityairport.
Car hire com. London City Airport: Trains
Make sure your driving licence is valid for to/from Canary Wharf (change at
the UK and see ‘Congestion and ULEZ Charges’ Poplar) Canning Town
Bank and many other stations.
(p. 96). Enterprise Rent-A-Car T: 0800-800
227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Hertz T: 020-7365 Stansted Airport
3369. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd T: 0844-335 1803. www.stanstedairport.com.
T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. Stansted Express: Trains to/from
Liverpool Street. National Express:
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Bicycles are for hire from docking stations. £2 Stansted Citylink runs coaches to Stansted
for 24 hours. First 30 minutes are free. www.tfl. Airport from Victoria and King’s
Cross St Pancras.
gov.uk/santandercycles or T: 0343-222 6666.
Luton Airport
Transport symbols explained T: 01582-405 100. www.london-luton.co.uk.
ThamesLink T: 0345-026 4700. Direct trains
London Underground Docklands from St Pancras International are 40-45
Light Railway
London Overground minutes (connects to King’s Cross St
London River Pancras) and other stations.
National Rail Services Pier
Enjoy London with a Visitor Oyster Card.

ALL IMAGES © ISTOCK
The easiest way to travel around.

For more information or to pre-purchase, go to visitorshop.tﬂ.gov.uk
MAYOR OF LONDON Transport for London
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Ticket information
Essential information
Visitor information centre
Find tourist information at the City of
London Information Centre, St Paul’s
Churchyard, EC4M 8BX.
Whether you need directions, information
about events or day trip suggestions, speak
to the friendly, multilingual team at the only
officially recognised tourist information
centre in central London. At the centre,
services include Oyster cards, hotel
reservations, foreign exchange, VAT refunds,
stamps, postcards and tickets to attractions,
tours and theatre shows.
There are also Visitor Centres at
Holborn, Victoria, Euston, King’s
Cross St Pancras, Liverpool Street, Piccadilly
Circus, Paddington, Gatwick Airport and
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Coaches
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For copies of London Planner call T: 020-7611 4669
Station, a central hub that offers travel across the
Morris Visitor Publications, 2nd Floor, Samuel House, 6 St Alban’s St, UK, SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.
London, SW1Y 4SQ. T: 020-7242 5222. london.planner@morriseurope.com.
LondonPlanner LondonPlannerMag LondonPlanner www.
uk/coaches. Victoria.
www.youtube.com/londonplanner
Managing Editor: Kohinoor Sahota Group Deputy Editor: Sarah Riches
Congestion and ULEZ Charges
Associate & Digital Editor: Neil Simpson Sub Editor: Anna Frame There are congestion charges to drive into central
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London Planner Volume 32, Issue 12. Printed in Great Britain. from £4.40; child £2.40. River Roamer on the
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© Morris Visitor Publications. No part may be reproduced without day adult £19.80; child £9.90. River Roamer
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DEC 19 • LONDONP
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to
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in the CURTAIN
UP!
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capital
Immersive hits
and British
ESSENTIAL
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Clare Smyth
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Travel information
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gov.uk/gettingaround or call T: 0343-222 1234.
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BOOKING
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• Northern Line: Between Morden and
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Accessible London and Heathrow Terminal 5.
Disabled travellers in London should visit • Central Line: Between White City and
Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway
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www.openbritain.net.
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DECE M B E R 2019 | 97

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This map is based on information derived from aerial photography and an original field survey
Y
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conducted by Cosmographics Ltd, Monaco House, Unit 1 Monaco Works, Station Road, Kings Langley,
TOURS EL ST
Hertfordshire, WD4 8LQ. R EE
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Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2018. IZ ST MICHAEL’S T
AB
Map produced by Cosmographics Ltd. ET
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© British Tourist Authority (trading as VisitBritain) 2018. ST

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LP MAIN MAPS 29.11.18.indd 4 10/09/2019 15:12

SIMM
SQUARE S
ESMERALD
RD
London river services map
DECE M B E R 2019 | 101
LP RIVER MAP.indd 101 31/10/2019 14:05

London bus map

DECE M B E R 2019 | 103

London Underground map
LONDONPLANNE
THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | TRAVEL ESSENTIALS | FIRST VIS

NNER.COM Your friend
in the city
OCTOB E R 2018 | 105

London in numbers
The
Greates
t
City
London boasts the tallest isolated
170
stone column in the world,
MONUMENT
LONDON HAS MORE THAN
202
which stands at
are spoken in MUSEUMS
850
London – more
AND OVER
FEET
than in any
other country
in the world
London is Europe’s most
populated city and has
ART GALLERIES
more billionaires per head
than any other world city
70
THERE ARE
NEARLY MANY OF WHICH OFFER
MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS
WITHIN THE CAPITAL MAKING LONDON
FREE ADMISSION
A CULINARY WORLD HOTSPOT
THE LONDON UNDERGROUND

LONDON IS THE HAS THE OLDEST
GREENEST 1908 1948 2012 UNDERGROUND RAILWAY
CITY OF ITS SIZE
IN THE WORLD.
London has hosted the Olympic
Games an impressive three times,
IN THE WORLD.
HYDE PARK more than any other city THE METROPOLITAN LINE
ALONE COVERS P
ENED I
The Shard stands at 1,016 feet
N
O
350
high and is the tallest building
in Western Europe 1863
ACRES
COMMERZBANK TOWER
Sources: Languages: london.gov.uk;

TORRE DE CRISTAL
THE SHARD
Monument: BBC; Populated city:

TORRE BANKIA
ICONS © ISTOCK
londoncouncils.gov.uk/huffington
MESSETURM
IN THE MIDDLE
post.com; Restaurants: Visit London;
FRANKFURT
FRANKFURT
Museums: london.gov.uk; Metropolitan

LONDON
MADRID
MADRID
Line: tfl.gov.uk; The Shard: the-shard.
OF THE CITY com; Olympics: BBC; Hyde Park:

lonelyplanet.com
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SIGHTS • ARTS • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS

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