99-T1660-166 Service Manual

Model T1660
Trencher Manual
Serial #: 166
FAYSAL M QAHTANI SONS CO.
Publish Date: 01/2009
Customer
Copy
Introduction
Introduction
Engineering Services Product Configuration Parts Department
(865) 408-2100 1-800-894-4618
99-T1660-166 FAYSAL M QAHTANI SONS CO.
Part Number Description Quantity
AU111514 Assembly, Tractor 1

AU114696 Sprocket Kit, 32” c/c 1
AU117067 Boom Assembly, 48”Mx8’ - 3d8 1
AU117468 Extension Kit, 48”Mx4’ 1
AU114849 Lube Kit - Electrical - 120 LB 1
AU117683 Air Intake Extension Kit 1
94000662 Air Deflector Kit 1
92000319 Guard Installation, 28”Mx8’ 1
92000230 Guard Extension Kit, 4’ 1
AU117469 Chain Assembly, 48”x12’ - 3d8 1
AU117470 Chain Assembly, 60”x12’ - 3d8 1
30-1601-1871 Boom Installation Kit 1
AU117567 Stringline Steering Kit 1
Product Configuration
Engineering Services Product Configuration Parts Department
(865) 408-2100 1-800-894-4618
The information contained in this manual contains technical and

proprietary information that is the intellectual property of Trencor. In
consideration of the use of this manual, the user agrees that it shall be
treated as confidential material. The user also agrees that the contents
thereof shall not be disclosed, reproduced, copied, or otherwise
disposed of directly or indirectly, nor shall it be used for any purpose
other than that for which it is specifically furnished, except by written
permission of Trencor Incorporated.
©2001 Trencor, Inc.

All rights reserved.
Technical Publications Group
Product Configuration
Service Manual
Table of Contents
Model T1660M
Section One
DIGGING CHAIN GUARD INSTALLATION ............................................................................................... 1
BOOM INSTALLATION ............................................................................................................................. 4
DOUBLE D8 TAILWHEEL ASSEMBLY ..................................................................................................... 10
BOOM ADJUST CYLINDER - SERVICE.................................................................................................... 12
DIGGING TOOTH REPLACEMENT .......................................................................................................... 12
Service Section 1 0
Digging Chain Guard Installation
The following procedures describe how to disassemble and

assemble the digging chain guard and guard extensions. For
this set of procedures, Trencor assumes that there are other
pieces of construction equipment on the job site. For the
procedures we are about to undertake, Trencor assumes that
there is a small mobile crane and a front-end loader available for
use. However, a variety of equipment may be used if it
conforms to safety protocol standards and can function
adequately in this application.
Disassembly – Primary Chain Guard
1. Position trencher for accessibility of maintenance equipment.

2. When removing a part for any extended period of time, be
sure to stamp, write, or paint the correct part number on the
component. Part numbers may be obtained from the parts
manual for the trencher. This will assist in installing the part in
the correct place and for inventory identification.
3. The chain guard is mounted to the boom hood (bonnet) by
six (6) bolts and twelve (12) snap rings at the rear of the chain
guard.
4. Retract the boom lift cylinders until the guard is level. This
will make using the mobile crane to disassemble the chain
guard easier to use.
5. Attach a lift chain or strap to the lifting eyes. Using a small
mobile crane, take up the tension in the lift chain or strap.
6. Remove the snap rings and mounting pins.
CAUTION: At this point the chain guard must be fully

supported by the mobile crane.
7. Remove the chain guard from the trencher. NOTE: When removing a part for any extended period of time, be
sure to stamp, write, or paint the correct part number on the component. Part numbers may be obtained from
the parts manual for the trencher. This will assist in installing the part in the correct place and for inventory
identification.
1 Service Section 1
Disassembly – Chain Guard Extension
1. Retract the boom lift cylinders until the chain guard is level. This will make using the mobile crane to
disassemble the chain guard easier to use.
2. Attach a lift chain or strap to the lifting eyes. Using a small mobile crane, take up the tension in the lift chain
or strap.
3. The chain guard extension is attached to the primary chain guard using twelve (12) mounting bolts, flat
washers, and lock nuts. Remove these capscrews and lock nuts.
CAUTION: At this point the chain guard extension must be fully supported by the mobile crane.
4. Remove the chain guard extension from the trencher. NOTE: When removing a part for any extended period
of time, be sure to stamp, write, or paint the correct part number on the component. Part numbers may be
obtained from the parts manual for the trencher. This will assist in installing the part in the correct place and
for inventory identification.
Service Section 1 2
Assembly – Primary Chain Guard
1. Retract the boom lift cylinders until the boom hood
(bonnet) is level. This will make using the mobile
crane to assembly the chain guard easier to use.
2. Attach a lift chain or strap to the lifting eyes. Using
a small mobile crane, take up the tension in the lift
chain or strap.
3. Lift and move the desired component into place.
Align mounting boltholes and suspend component in
place. CAUTION: Be sure to observe all safety
precautions while installing this component. Do not
walk under this component until the chain guard is
securely attached to the boom hood (bonnet).
4. Install six (6) mounting pins and twelve (12) snap
rings.
Assembly – Chain Guard Extension

1. Extend the boom lift cylinders until the boom hood (bonnet) is level. This will make using the mobile crane to
assemble the chain guard extension easier to use.
2. Attach or weld a set of lifting eyes to the component being installed. Attach a lift chain or strap to the lifting
eyes. Using a small mobile crane, take up the tension in the lift chain or strap.
3. Lift and move the desired component into place. Align mounting bolt holes and suspend component in place.
CAUTION: Be sure to observe all safety precautions while installing this component. Do not walk under
this component until the chain guard extension is securely attached to the primary chain guard
4. Attach the chain guard extension to the primary chain guard using eight (8) mounting bolts and lock nuts.
Torque these bolts to 300-380 ft./lbs.
3 Service Section 1
Boom Installation
The following procedures describe how to disassemble and assemble the primary boom assembly and
boom extensions. For this set of procedures, Trencor assumes that there are other pieces of construction
equipment on the job site. For the procedures we are about to undertake, Trencor assumes that there is
a small mobile crane and a front-end
loader available for use. However, a variety
of equipment may be used if it conforms to
safety protocol standards and can function
adequately in this application.
Disassembly – Prime Boom Assembly
1. Position the trencher for accessibility of
maintenance equipment.
2. To begin dis-assembly of the primary
boom, the digging chain assembly must be
removed. Before attempting to remove the
digging chain, remove the tension on the
chain by relieving the pressure being
exerted by the boom adjustment cylinders.
To relieve the pressure being applied by
these cylinders is very simple, very slowly,
begin to loosen the grease fitting located at
the rear of the adjustment cylinder. NOTE:
It is not necessary to remove this fitting,
just loosen the fitting until grease begins
escaping from the relief hole in the
adjustment cylinder barrel. If the releasing
of this pressure does not allow enough slack
in the chain to dis-assemble, you may
collapse the cylinders more by using the
front-end loader to push on the tailwheel
area of the boom. This should collapse the
adjustment cylinders and release the tension
on the digging chain.
3. To remove the digging chain, find the master
pin, there may be more than one, and rotate
the digging chain until the master chain link
is approximately half way up the boom on the
top side. The master pin may be identified
by a keeper pin located in the end of the
master pin. This master pin configuration
allows for easier addition and removal of
chain sections.
4. Remove the cutter bars above and on either
side of the chain master link assembly. The cutter bars are attached to the digging chains with eight (8)
capscrews and lock nuts. Remove these capscrews and lock nuts and using the mobile crane, move these
Service Section 1 4
cutter bars to one side. NOTE: Mark the cutter bar position as they were on the chain, and replace them in
the same order as they were removed.
5. Attach the mobile crane lift chain to the link behind the master pin. Remove the keeper pin. Using a punch
or short rod, tap the master pin out of the chain assembly with a small shop hammer. Duplicate this
procedure with the second chain assembly also.
6. Start the trencher engine. Move the trencher ahead slowly while rotating the digger drive sprockets in
reverse. This should dis-engage the digging chain from the headshaft drive sprockets and the boom. NOTE:
Make sure there is sufficient space in front of the trencher to perform this step.
7. Extend the boom lift cylinders until the boom is parallel with the ground. This will make using the mobile
crane to dis-assemble the boom easier to use.
8. Attach the mobile crane lift chain or strap to the tailwheel assembly. Using the mobile crane, take up tension
on the lift chain or tow strap.
9. Remove the tailwheel assembly from the boom end section. The tailwheel assembly is attached to the boom
end section by the tailwheel clamp. The tailwheel clamp is held in place by eight (8) capscrews and lock
washers. Remove the capscrews and tailwheel clamps.
CAUTION: At this point the tailwheel assembly must be fully supported by the mobile crane lift chain or
tow strap. Move the tailwheel assembly to an appropriate work area for servicing. Detailed service
instructions on the tailwheel assembly can be found later in this section of the manual. NOTE: When
removing a part for any extended period of time, be sure to stamp, write, or paint the correct part number on
the component. Part numbers may be obtained from the parts manual for the trencher. This will assist in
installing the part in the correct place and for inventory identification.
5 Service Section 1
10. Attach or weld a set of lifting eyes to the component being removed. Attach a lift chain or strap to the lifting
11. Remove the twelve (12) capscrews and lock nuts that attach the boom tailwheel section to the boom primary
section. The primary section is aligned with the tailwheel section using three (3) dowel pins. The boom
tailwheel section must be removed from the dowel pins before it can be detached from the rest of the boom.
12. Using the mobile crane, detach the boom tailwheel section from the boom primary section.
CAUTION: at this point the tailwheel section of the boom must be fully supported by the mobile crane lift
chain or tow strap. Set the tailwheel section of the boom to one side. NOTE: When removing a part for any
extended period of time, be sure to stamp, write, or paint the correct part number on the component. Part
numbers may be obtained from the parts manual for the trencher. This will assist in installing the part in the
correct place and for inventory identification.
Removing The Primary Boom Section
Once the tailwheel assembly and the boom tailwheel end section have been removed from the primary boom,
follow the procedures listed below to totally remove the primary boom from the boom hood (bonnet).
1. Attach or weld a set of lifting eyes to the component being removed. Attach a lift chain or strap to the lifting
Service Section 1 6
2. The boom primary section is attached to the boom hood (bonnet) using twenty (20) mounting bolts and
washers, ten (10) per side. The boom mounting bolts are protected and locked in place by the mounting bolt
lock plates.
3. The lock plates are attached to the boom hood by one (1) capscrew each. Remove the capscrew, lock plate,
and washers for the twenty (20) boom mounting bolts. NOTE: Do not misplace the lock plate hardened
washer! This is a manufactured item and is not available through any hardware outlet.
4. Remove the twenty (20) boom mounting bolts. NOTE: Do not misplace the mounting bolt hardened washer!
This is a manufactured item and is not available through any hardware outlet.
5. Attach a tow strap or lift chain to the boom primary
section and around the front-end loader bucket. Place the
front-end loader in reverse and begin backing up. The
boom primary section should come out of the boom hood
(bonnet) slowly to avoid any damage to the boom primary
section or the boom hood (bonnet).
Installing The Primary Boom Section

1. Attach the tailwheel assembly to the boom tailwheel end
section. Using the mobile crane, hoist the tailwheel
assembly into place. Locate the tailwheel assembly inside
the tailwheel clamps. Attach the outer half of the
tailwheel clamp to the boom end section using four (4)
mounting bolts and lock washers per side. Torque these bolts to 580 – 680 lb-ft.
2. Attach the boom tailwheel end section to the primary boom section. The tailwheel end section has three (3)
dowel pins used for aligning the two (2) boom sections for assembly. Align the two sections, and press
together until the two (2) bolting plates meet. Attach the two sections together by using twelve (12) bolts
and lock nuts, six per side. Torque bolts to 300-380 ft./lbs.
3. Place the boom sub-assembly, with the tailwheel assembly attached, behind the trencher with the curved side
of the boom facing the ground and the tailwheel assembly away from the trencher. NOTE: Make sure there
is sufficient space in front of the trencher to perform this step.
7 Service Section 1
4. Attach the mobile crane lift chain or tow strap such that when the boom is lifted, the boom mounting box tilts
up at a slight angle toward the trencher boom hood (bonnet).
5. Using the boom hoist cylinders, elevate the boom hood (bonnet) until the boom guides, inside the boom hood
(bonnet), are aligned with the boom mounting box.
6. Apply a generous coating of multi-purpose grease to the boom guides on the inside of the boom hood
(bonnet) and the guide rails on the boom mounting box.
7. Slowly, insert the end of the boom into the boom hood (bonnet). Push on the tailwheel end of the boom sub-
assembly with the front end loader. As the boom is being inserted, the boom hood (bonnet) may need to be
raised or lowered slightly to maintain proper alignment with the boom.
8. Be sure the chain adjusting cylinders are fully collapsed, then push the boom sub-assembly into the boom
hood (bonnet) until the adjusting cylinders contact the push plate.
9. Install the twenty (20) boom mounting bolts and hardened washers through the slots in the boom hood
(bonnet). Do not tighten.
10. Unfold the digging chain and cutter plate assembly behind the machine with the cutter plates down and the
tooth holders toward the machine.
11. Back the machine over the chain assembly until approximately 10 feet of the chain is resting behind the
tailwheel centerline.
12. Using the mobile crane, pick up the free end
of the chain assembly and wrap it around the
tailwheel and along the top of the boom sub-
assembly. NOTE: Pull enough chain along
the top of the boom to engage the drive
sprockets.
13. Once the digging chain assembly is wrapped
around the drive sprockets, attach a long tow
chain to the free end of the chain assembly.
Attach the opposite end of the tow chain to
the front-end loader.
14. With the drive sprockets rotating slowly in

reverse, move the digging chain assembly
forward slowly. Continue this operation until
the free end of the digging chain is three (3)
or four (4) feet past the center of the
tailwheel. Stop the digger drive sprocket.
15. Attach the mobile crane to the free end of the
digging chain and wrap around the tailwheel. Slowly lower the boom until it is resting on the ground.
16. Disconnect the mobile crane from the chain assembly.
Service Section 1 8
17. Using a lift chain or tow strap, and a chain hoist/puller, tighten the digging chain until the links and bushings
are aligned.
18. Once the chain links have been aligned, start the master pin into the round hole in the chain side plate. If
necessary, use a small shop hammer to drive the master pin through the chain link. Use the keeper pin to
retain the master pin in the chain link.
Chain Tensioning Procedure

1. Loosen the boom mounting bolts.
2. With a hand held grease gun, begin inserting grease into the boom adjustment cylinders, one on each side of
the boom hood (bonnet). If when applying grease, it is seen escaping from the rear of the boom adjustment
cylinders, the grease fitting needs to be tightened.
3. Proper chain adjustment is achieved when the slack between the digging chain and the bottom of the boom
weldment has reached the proper proportion. The “rule-of-thumb” measurement for the amount of slack is
approximately ¾” per foot of digging depth. These values are approximate and can vary with chain wear,
weight, and digging conditions.
EXAMPLE: 6’ digging depth x ¾” = 4 ½” slack
4. Once the digging chain has been adjusted to the proper tension, move the boom adjustment shim into place
and tighten retaining bolts until the proper torque is reached. Torque bolts to 800-900 ft./lbs.
5. Tighten the boom mounting bolts. Torque to 1260-1360 ft./lbs.
9 Service Section 1
Double D8 Tailwheel Assembly
Removal:
1. Remove the digging chain. See the Boom
Installation section for service information.
2. Using a suitable hoist, attach a lift chain or tow
strap to the tailwheel assembly. CAUTION: the
next procedure will detach the tailwheel
assembly from the boom end section. The
tailwheel assembly must be supported by the
hoist to prevent damage to the component or
injury to the mechanic.
3. Detach the outer half of the tailwheel clamp by
removing the four mounting bolts and lock
washers that secure it. Repeat this procedure for
both clamps.
4. Using the crane or small crane, move the
tailwheel assembly to a suitable service location.
Double D6 Tailwheel – Service

1. Remove the tailwheel shaft cap (4) from the tailwheel shaft
(3). The cap (4) is pressed onto the shaft (3) and may be
difficult to remove. Designed into the shaft cap (4) are two
5/8”-11UNC tapped holes to assist the mechanic in
removing the cap using a gear or sprocket puller. Repeat for
shaft cap (4) on opposite side of hub (1).
2. Remove the shaft key (9) from the tailwheel shaft (3).
Inspect the key for damage or wear. Replace if necessary.
NOTE: When removing a part for any extended period of
time, be sure to write, stamp, or paint the correct part
number on the component. Part numbers may be obtained
from the parts manual for that trencher. This will assist in
installing the part at a later time as well as for inventory
identification.
3. Remove the seal cap (5) from the tailwheel hub (1). The
seal cap (5) is attached using eight capscrews (11) and lock
washers (13). Inspect the seals (7,8) for damage. Replace,
if necessary. Repeat for seal cap (5) on the opposite side of
the tailwheel hub (1).
4. Using a small shop hammer and a block of wood, begin
tapping on one end of the tailwheel shaft (3). The bearing
(6) on the opposite end of the shaft (3) should start to slide
out of the bolting hub (1). Once the bearing (6) is free of
the hub (1), inspect for damage. Replace if necessary.
5. Repeat procedure to remove the remaining bearing (6) from the hub (1).
6. Inspect the tailwheel shaft (3) for damage or wear. Repair or replace if necessary.
7. Remove the tailwheel (2) from the bolting hub (1). The tailwheel is attached using twelve capscrews (10) and
lock washers (12). Remove the hardware. CAUTION: The tailwheel (2) is no longer attached to the bolting
hub (1). The tailwheel weighs approximately 1518 lbs. Be sure to use an adequate lifting device to remove the
tailwheel (2) from the hub (1). Repeat procedure for remaining tailwheel.
Service Section 1 10
Double D8 Tailwheel – Assembly
1. Inspect bolting hub (1) for damage. Inspect the hub
bore for nicks, burrs or other imperfections. Repair if
found.
2. Place the bolting hub (1) in a suitable work location
and turn the hub so that one bearing bore is flat
against the work surface.
3. Insert the tailwheel bearing (6) into the bearing bore
and press the bearing (6) into the bore using a bearing
installation tool. Press the bearing (6) until it is firmly
seated against the shoulder of the bolting hub (1)
4. Inspect the seal cap (5) and seal bores for nicks, burrs
or other imperfections. Check the lubrication fitting for
functionality. Make sure that the bearing (6) can be
greased from the fitting (14).
5. Install the seals (7,8) into the seal cap. Install the seals
into the cap (5) so that the seal lip is facing away from
the bearing. This will allow grease to pass out be not
let contaminants into the bearing. Seal Installation:
Improper installation is probably the most common
reason for seal failure. Here are some guidelines for
proper installation:
• Remove burrs, nicks, or grooves from the shaft.
• Wipe the seal with lubricant before installation.
• Install seal on shaft using press-fit tools, such as an arbor or hydraulic press. Both types of tools apply
uniform pressure against a seal. If the press is not available, use a soft faced mallet or bearing cup with the
installation tool. Whatever tool is used, apply a seating force evenly around the circumference of the seal.
NEVER hammer directly on the seal face.
• After installation, check for other machine parts that could rub against the seal and cause friction and heat.
6. Attach the seal cap (5) to the bolting hub (1). The cap is attached using eight capscrews (11) and lock washers
(13). Tighten the capscrews around the seal cap, alternating as you tighten. Torque the capscrews to 90-110
foot / pounds.
7. Turn the bolting hub (1) so that it is resting on the bolting flanges, the hub bore being parallel to the work
surface.
8. Insert the tailwheel shaft (3) into the bolting hub (1) from the end opposite the installed seal cap (5). Slide the
end of the shaft (3) into the bearing (6). Using a block of wood and a small shop hammer, gently tap the shaft
(3) until it is seated firmly against the bearing (6).
9. Place the remaining bearing (6) over the end of the tailwheel shaft (3). Press the bearing (6) onto the shaft (3)
until the bearing is seated fully in the bolting hub (1).
10. Repeat steps 5 & 6 above for the remaining seal cap (5).
11. Place the shaft key (9) into the keyway on the tailwheel shaft (3). Align the shaft cap (4) with the key (9) and
press on cap (4) until seated against the shaft shoulder. Repeat procedure for remaining shaft cap (4).
12. Attach tailwheel (2) to the bolting hub (1). The tailwheel has a machined face that must be placed against the
bolting hub flange. Attach the tailwheel using twelve capscrews (10) and lock washers (12). Torque the
capscrews to 580 - 680 lb-ft. Repeat for remaining tailwheel (2).
13. Using the small crane or hoist, place the tailwheel assembly into the boom end section tailwheel clamp. Attach
the outer half of the tailwheel clamp over the tailwheel and secure using four capscrews and lock washers per
clamp. Repeat the procedure for the remaining clamp.
14. Remove the chain hoist and install the digging chain. For digging chain installation instructions, see that section
of the manual.
11 Service Section 1
Boom Adjust Cylinder - Service
The amount of tension on the digging chain is adjusted using a manually adjusted grease cylinder. Grease is
inserted, using a grease gun, through a grease fitting located on the barrel end of the cylinder. The fitting is
accessible through the side plates of the boom hood (bonnet).
Disassembly – Adjustment Cylinder

1. Remove the adjustment cylinder from the boom hood
(bonnet).
2. Place the cylinder in a clean location suitable for
servicing machined components.
3. Remove the grease fitting (#5) from the cylinder
barrel (#1). The grease fitting (#5) is located in the
end of the cylinder barrel (#1).
4. Clamp or otherwise retain the cylinder barrel (#1) and
remove the cylinder rod (#2) by pulling the rod (#2)
toward you.
5. Clean each part thoroughly. If the cylinder is to be
dismantled for any length of time, coat the metal parts
which are to be re-used with a good preservative and
store in a protective place, not out in the weather.
6. Examine the cylinder rod (#2) for straightness. If the rod is bent, replace it.
7. Examine the cylinder rod (#2) for scratches, scores, indentations, and other blemishes. If they are not too
deep, remove them using a fine emery cloth.
8. If the cylinder barrel (#1) is damaged, either repair or replace it.
9. In reassembling the cylinder, it is suggested that all seals (#3, #4) be replaced.
Assembly – Adjustment Cylinder

1. The seal (#4) and installation groove should be lightly lubricated before installation.
2. Installation tools should be of soft metal, suitable plastic, free of burrs, sharp edges, etc. Screwdrivers and
similar tools should not be used as they may damage the sealing edges.
3. The groove and associative metal areas containing the seal (#4) should be free of burrs, sharp edges, and
nicks.
4. Protective devices should be used whenever the seal (#4) is forced over sharp edges, slots, and undercuts.
5. Insert seal (#4) into the second groove inside the cylinder barrel (#1). Insert the rod wiper (#3) into the first
groove of the cylinder barrel (#2) after installing the rod seal (#4).
6. Lightly lubricate the cylinder rod (#1) and insert it into the cylinder barrel (#2). Be careful. Do not damage
the rod wiper (#3) during rod (#1) insertion.
7. Press the cylinder rod (#1) until firmly seated against the base of the cylinder barrel (#2).
8. Install grease fitting (#5) into the barrel.
DIGGING TOOTH REPLACEMENT
NOTE: The digging teeth are some of the most important parts of the trenching machine. Worn or broken teeth
can greatly reduce trench production and quality, as well as cause undo wear and tear on other trenching
components. The teeth should be inspected several times each working day, and especially if the operator notices
any slowdown in production or if the machine begins to vibrate abnormally.
There are a number of types of teeth that can be used on this trencher, depending on the type of soil and/or rock
that you are digging. We can help you to choose the correct tooth for your particular needs.
There are two basics ways that the teeth are held in tooth holders. They are described below:
a) EXTERNAL SPRING CLIP - The tooth shaft has a turned down area where a spring clip (2) fits so that the spring
clip (2) goes on the backside of the tooth holder and holds against the rear of the tooth block (3). This type of
tooth (1) can be pushed or tapped from the rear after
removing the spring clip (2) when worn out or broken.
b) EXTERNAL CLIP – The tooth shaft has a turned down

area where a clip (2) fits so that the clip (2) goes on the
backside of the tooth holder and holds against the rear
of the tooth block (3). This type of tooth (1) can be
pushed or tapped from the rear after removing the clip
(2) when worn out or broken.
The Same tooth holder can be used for both types of teeth if it has a through hole and a groove turned into the
bore. The force of the impact holds the tooth in the holder while digging, but between impacts the spring clips
hold the teeth in place.
Service Manual
Table of Contents
Model T1660M
Section Two
DIGGING DRIVE ASSEMBLY.................................................................................................................... 1
DRIVE CHAINS ........................................................................................................................................ 2
HEADSHAFT ASSEMBLY........................................................................................................................... 7
COUNTERSHAFT ASSEMBLY .................................................................................................................. 12
DIFFERENTIAL OUTPUT ........................................................................................................................ 20
DIFFERENTIAL UNIT ............................................................................................................................. 24
DIGGING SPROCKET ASSEMBLY........................................................................................................... 26
Service Section 2 0
Digging Drive Assembly
General
The digging drive is driven from both sides by a two stage roller chain arrangement, directly behind a heavy duty
Caterpillar® differential. This in turn is powered by an Allison® four speed transmission with an integral three-
element torque converter for smoother, shock free operation. Four digging chain speeds are available. All shafts,
bearings and chains are designed to accommodate the full output potential of the torque converter and
transmission in the stall condition. Roller chain tension is adjustable for both stages of the drive through the use of
eccentric hubs. All drive chains and drive sprockets are oil bath lubricated.
All digging drive components are in operation approximately ten or twelve hours a day. Therefore, at the end of
the workday, the components have made several thousand revolutions. It is very important that these components
receive the proper lubrication to enhance performance and reduce the amount of trencher down time due to
premature component failure. Proper lubrication and maintenance of the digging drive system would give you
many hours of trouble free operation.
The purpose of this manual is to give the operator and mechanic an understanding of the drive system and the
terminology used to describe the components.
Lubrication
Lubrication is the most critical concern in keeping the digging drive system operating. A properly lubricated and
serviced drive train will give you many hours of trouble-free operation. All of the lubrication points that use grease
as a lubricant are centrally located at the top of the digging drive chaincases. Each of these lubrication points on
the digging drive should be lubricated at least every four hours to ensure proper lubrication. These grease points
should be lubricated using a high-pressure grease such as Mobil® Mobilgrease HP.
1 Service Section 2
1. The headshaft bearings, on each side of the trencher, have lubrication points located on the top of the digging
drive chaincase. When performing routine maintenance, the headshaft bearing should relieve grease from
inside the boom-mounting hood. If grease is not relieving from inside the hood, it may be necessary to remove
the boom hood retainer and clean out the cavity that may have been packed with dirt and debris. The proper
lubricant for this area is Mobilgrease® HP. This procedure should be done every four hours.
2. The boom hood pivot bushing should be lubricated when performing routine maintenance on the headshaft
bearing. This procedure should be done every four hours. Proper lubricant for this area is Mobilgrease® HP.
Proper lubrication of the pivot bushing will ensure a smooth rotation when changing the trenchers’ digging
depth.
3. The countershaft bearings are located on the exterior of the outside chaincase as well as an interior bearing
housing. The interior countershaft bearing is lubricated from a lubrication point mounted on top of the exterior
chaincase. The exterior countershaft bearing is lubricated form a grease fitting mounted directly to the bearing
cap. This procedure should be done every four hours. The proper lubricant for this area is Mobilgrease® HP.
4. The differential shaft bearings are lubricated from a lubrication fitting located on top of the exterior chaincase.
The proper lubricant for this area is Mobilgrease® HP. This procedure should be done every four hours.
5. The differential unit is oil bath lubricated. The differential unit is supplied with an oil level check plug. The
differential oil should be level with the bottom of this check plug. The differential oil level should be checked
every ten hours. The lubricant to be used for this component is heavy-duty gear oil, 80W-90. The differential
oil should be changed every 500 hours.
6. The interior chaincase houses the first stage drive components. This drive chain and sprocket are oil bath
lubricated. It is important to insure smooth operation that the chaincase oil is kept at the proper level. Located
in the side access cover of the chaincase is an oil level check plug. The oil level should be even with the bottom
of the check plug opening. The oil condition should also be checked on a routine interval.
7. The exterior chaincase houses the second stage drive components. This drive chain and sprocket are oil bath
lubricated. It is important to insure smooth operation that the chaincase oil is kept at the proper level. Located
in the side access cover of the chaincase is an oil level check plug. The oil level should be even with the bottom
of the check plug opening. The oil condition should also be checked on a routine interval.
Drive Chains
Power is transmitted to the headshaft through the differential, sprockets and chain. This chain is an integral part of
the digging drive assembly. The chains are a triple-strand 200 series drive chain and a double strand 200 series
drive chain. The following paragraphs are intended to familiarize you with the construction and installation of this
type chain.
Service Section 2 2
A roller chain is a series of connected journal bearings, assembled with alternating roller links and pin links. Each
roller link consists of two bushings (1), rollers (2), and side plates (3). Rollers (2) are slipped onto bushings (1),
then the bushings are press fitted into the side plates (3) to complete a single roller link. The roller (2) has
sufficient clearance to permit free movement and lubricant access. The same roller links are used for single and
multi-strand chains. Pin links have two pins press fitted into two link plates, and when assembled, the two pins slip
into bushings of adjacent roller links.
Roller chains are joined together in
endless lengths, preferably with an even
number of pitches. To obtain an odd
number of pitches, an offset link is
required. The chain supplied to drive the
digging drive is an endless chain with a
connecting link (4) for installation.
CAUTION: When connecting or

disconnecting chain:
1) Always turn off engine and remove key
from panel before removing or installing
chains.
2) Always use safety glasses for eye
protection.
3) Wear protective clothing, gloves, and
shoes.
4) Use supports to prevent uncontrolled
movement of chains, parts, and equipment.
5) Pressing equipment is recommended for
assembly and disassembly of chain
components. Tools must be kept in good
condition and used properly.
6) Do not attempt to connect or disconnect
the drive chains unless you know the chain
construction, including the correct direction
for pin/rivet removal or insertion.
7) Use lengths of assembled chain for rework.
Do not build lengths from individual components.
8) Do not attempt to rework damaged chains by replacing only the faulty components. The entire chain may be
weakened and should be discarded.
INSPECT chain for shipment damage before installation. During operation, all chain systems should be inspected
on a regular schedule. Your drive chaincases have access covers for this procedure. Visually check for worn,
damaged, and broken parts caused by improper installation or maintenance, abnormal stress, temperature,
possible interference with other system components and improper lubrication.
HEATING CHAIN with a cutting torch is not recommended unless absolutely necessary for removal. If cut in such
a manner, the chain should not be re-used.
WELDING should not be performed on any chain or component.
Replacement
To begin replacing the damaged or broken digging drive chain(s), follow the procedures listed below:
Removal
3 Service Section 2
Before removing the exterior chaincase access cover you must first drain the drive component lubrication oil from
Exterior Chaincase
Access Covers
Exterior
Chaincase
D ifferential
U nit
Interior Chaincase
Access Cover
Engine
Exterior
D rive Chain
Interior
D rive Chain
Interior Chaincase
Access Cover
the chaincase. To do this, remove the bottom drain plug located in the chaincase underneath the headshaft drive
sprocket. NOTE: Use a container to drain the used oil into. Dispose of used oil properly. Return the used oil to the
nearest recycling center for disposal. To help speed up the draining process, remove the oil level check plug
located in the chaincase access cover.
1. When the oil has been drained from the chaincase, remove the capscrews and lock washers from the chaincase
access cover. In order to remove the cover, it will be necessary to dislodge it from the chaincase using a flat
head screwdriver. The access cover is sealed to the chaincase with a silicone sealant and the seal must be
broken to remove the cover. NOTE: Before installing the access cover, all traces of the old sealant must be
removed from the cover and the chaincase.
Service Section 2 4
2. Using a standard chain puller (ACME #10788), hook into the chain ends where the connecting link is located.
Adjust the chain puller so that tension is released on the connecting link. Remove the cotter pins on the
connecting link and disengage the link from the chain assembly. Discard chain.
NOTE: Take notice of whether the drive chain master link pins are pointing to the inside or the outside of the
chaincase. Install the new drive chain in the same
direction.
Installation
1. Insert the new drive chain into the chaincase.
Slowly feed the chain around the driver and
driven sprocket until there is no slack in the
drive chain.
2. Using a standard chain puller (ACME #10788),
hook into the chain ends where the connecting
link is located. Adjust the chain puller so that
the chain is tightened enough to insert the
connecting link. Insert the connecting link and
install the cotter pins. Release the tension on the chain puller and disengage from chain.
3. Before installing the access cover, remove any of the old sealant that may be remaining on the access cover or
the chaincase flange. With this completed, run a 3/8” bead of a good, silicone based sealant all around the
chaincase flange and through the tapped holes.
4. Install chaincase access cover using capscrews and lock washers removed earlier.
5. Install the drain plug in the bottom of the chaincase.
6. Using the oil level check plug in the chaincase access cover, fill the chaincase with 80W-90 gear oil. The oil
level should be flush with the bottom of the oil level check plug.
7. Install the check plug into the chaincase cover.
5 Service Section 2
Service Section 2 6
Headshaft Assembly
Removal
1) Before servicing or performing maintenance on any portion of the digging attachment, make sure the
attachment is suitably supported to prevent movement during service. A small crane or suitable support
should be used to prevent damage or possible injury.
2) Drain the chaincase lubricating oil. For the proper procedures and instructions, see the Digging Drive
Assembly.
3) Remove the chaincase cover. The chaincase cover is attached using capscrews and lock washers.
4) Remove the digging drive chain from the outside chaincase. Refer to the Digging Drive Chain Installation for
the proper procedures for removing the drive chain.
5) Remove the driven sprocket retainer (12). The retainer (12) is attached to the headshaft (1) using three
safety wire capscrews (28). Remove the safety wire and capscrews (28). Remove the sprocket retainer (12).
NOTE: When removing a component for any extended period of time, be sure to stamp, write, or paint the correct
part number on the component. Part numbers may be obtained from the parts manual for the trencher. This will
assist in installing the component in the correct place as well as for inventory identification.
6) Remove the headshaft driven sprocket (11). The sprocket (11) is driven through a splined shaft therefore it
may prove difficult to remove the sprocket. Use a gear puller to remove this sprocket.
7) The next procedure will eliminate the support on one side of the headshaft (1). Make certain that the
headshaft (1) is supported either by crane or suitably blocked to prevent movement.
8) The headshaft bearing sub-assembly may be removed as a whole unit for service. This serviceable unit
consists of the following:
a) Seal Cap (71)
b) Outer Seal (72)
c) Headshaft Bearing (74)
d) Bearing Housing (78)
e) Felt Seal (77)
f) Inner Seal (76)
g) Felt Seal Retainer (79)
h) Inner Bearing Spacer (75)
i) Outer Bearing Spacer (73)
j) Retainer Capscrews (81)
k) Retainer Lock Washers (80)
l) Seal Cap Capscrews (58)
m) Seal Cap Lock Washers (59)
9) Remove the boom hood retainer (10). The retainer (10) is attached to the pivot bearing housing (8) using six
capscrews (60) and lock washers (47). Remove hardware.
10) Remove the twelve capscrews (58) and lock washers (59) that attach the headshaft bearing sub-assembly to
the pivot bearing housing (8).
11) With the headshaft supported, from inside the boom hood using a small shop hammer and punch, begin to
tap the headshaft bearing sub-assembly evenly around the perimeter of the seal retainer (79) to push the
bearing sub-assembly out of the pivot bearing housing (8).
12) Once the bearing sub-assembly is removed, continue the disassembly process of the bearing sub-assembly.
Note: The second inner bearing spacer (75) is located between the headshaft bearing (74) and the shaft
shoulder. Due not lose or misplace this component.
13) Remove the seal cap (71). Inspect the seal cap (71) for damage. Inspect the seal (72) for damage or wear.
This is an opportune time to replace the seal (72) regardless of condition. The trencher is already
disassembled for service.
7 Service Section 2
Service Section 2 8
14) Remove the felt seal retainer (79). The retainer (79) is attached to the bearing housing (78) using six
capscrews and lock washers.
15) Remove the felt seal (77) and inner seal (76) from the bearing housing (78). Inspect the seals for damage or
wear. This is an opportune time to replace the seal (5) regardless of condition. The trencher is already
disassembled for service.
16) Remove the bearing (74) from the bearing housing (78). This is an opportune time to replace the bearing
(74) regardless of condition. The trencher is already disassembled for service.
17) Repeat procedure for opposite side of headshaft. NOTE: the bearing spacers (73) and (75) are located only
on one side of the headshaft (1).
18) To replace the pivot bushing, block up or otherwise support the boom-mounting hood. During this procedure
the boom-mounting hood will be totally unsupported. Failure to properly support the hood could result in
damaged property as well as personal injury.
19) Remove the pivot bearing housing (8). The bearing housing (8) is attached to the boom hood retainer using
twelve capscrews (60) and lock washers (47). Remove hardware.
20) Remove the pivot bearing housing (8) from the boom hood retainer. The housing (8) is provided with back
out holes to assist in the removal of the housing (8).
21) Remove the pivot bushing (9) from the boom hood retainer. Inspect the bushing for wear or damage. This is
an opportune time to replace the bushing (9) regardless of condition. The trencher is already disassembled
for service.
22) Check the grease holes on the bearing housing (8) for proper operation. The holes could be plugged with
debris or other contaminants preventing proper lubrication of components.
23) Remove the digging chain sprockets and spacers. For configuration and instructions see the Digging Sprocket
Assembly section in this manual.
Installation
1) Install pivot bushing (9) to the outside of the pivot bearing (8). Press pivot bushing (9) until it is flush with
the face of the hub.
2) Install pivot bearing housing (8) into the mainframe as shown in illustration. Attach the bearing housing (11)
to the mainframe using twelve capscrews (56) and lock washers (57). Torque the capscrews to 350–440 lb-ft.
3) Attach the boom hood retainer (10) to the pivot bearing housing (8) using twelve capscrews (60) and lock
washers (47). Torque the capscrews to 90-110 lb-ft.
4) Sub-assemble the headshaft-bearing unit. The headshaft bearing sub-assembly consists of the following:
a) Seal Cap (71)
b) Outer Seal (72)
c) Headshaft Bearing (74)
d) Bearing Housing (78)
e) Felt Seal (77)
f) Inner Seal (76)
g) Felt Seal Retainer (79)
h) Inner Bearing Spacer (75)
i) Outer Bearing Spacer (73)
j) Retainer Capscrews (81)
k) Retainer Lock Washers (80)
l) Seal Cap Capscrews (58)
m) Seal Cap Lock Washers (59)
5) Install the inner seal (76) into the bearing housing (78). Position seal lip in the direction of the arrows as
shown in the illustration.
9 Service Section 2
Seal Installation: Improper seal installation is probably the most common reason for seal failure. Here are
some guidelines for proper installation:
i) Remove burrs, nicks, or grooves form the shaft.
ii) Wipe the seal with lubricant before installation.
iii) Install seal in to housing using press-fit tools such as an arbor or hydraulic press. Both types of tools
apply uniform pressure against a seal. If the press is not available, use a soft faced mallet or bearing
cup with the installation tool. Whatever installation tool is used, apply a seating force evenly around
the circumference of the seal. NEVER hammer directly on the seal face.
iv) After installation, check for other machine parts that could rub against the seal and cause friction and
heat.
6) Install the felt seal (77) into the bearing housing.
7) Press the headshaft bearing (74) into the bore of the bearing housing (78). Insert bearing (74) until it is
seated firmly against the bottom of the housing bore.
8) Install the outer seal (72) into the seal cap (71). Position seal lip in the direction of the arrows as shown in
the illustration. Refer to the seal installation guidelines listed in step 5.
9) Press the seal cap (71) onto the bearing (74). Align bolt holes between the bearing housing (78) and the seal
cap (71). Press seal cap (71) until firmly seated against the bearing housing (78).
10) Attach the felt seal retainer (79) to the bearing housing (78). The retainer is attached using six capscrews
and lock washers. Torque the capscrews to 18-23 lb-in.
11) Place the inner bearing spacer (75) against the second shaft shoulder. The bearing spacer (75) is required
only on ONE side of the headshaft (1).
12) Carefully slide the bearing sub-assembly over the end of the headshaft (1). Press the bearing sub-assembly
on the shaft until seated firmly against the pivot bearing housing (8). Align the boltholes of the bearing sub-
assembly with the boltholes of the pivot bearing housing.
13) Attach the bearing sub-assembly to the pivot bearing housing (8) using twelve capscrews (60) and lock
washers (47). Torque the capscrews to 90-110 lb-ft.
14) Place the outer bearing spacer (73) over the end of the headshaft (1). Press the spacer (73) until firmly
seated against the headshaft bearing (74).
15) Align the splines of the headshaft (1) and the driven sprocket (11). Press the sprocket (11) onto the
headshaft until it is firmly seated against the bearing spacer (73).
16) Install the sprocket retainer (12). The retainer (12) is attached using three safety wire capscrews (28).
Torque capscrews to 225-280 lb-ft. Attach safety wire through the capscrews.
17) Install the digging drive chain. For further instructions see the Drive Chain Installation section of this manual.
18) Repeat the above procedures for the opposite side of the headshaft.
19) Attach the chaincase access cover. Fill with lubricating oil. For further instructions see the Digging Drive
Assembly portion of this manual.
Countershaft Assembly
SEAL DIRECT ION
SEAL DIRECT IO N
Disassembly:
1) Before servicing or performing maintenance on any portion of the digging attachment, make sure the
attachment is suitably supported to prevent movement during service. A small crane or suitable support should
be used to prevent damage or possible injury.
2) Drain the chaincase lubricating oil. For the proper procedures and instructions, see the Digging Drive Assembly.
3) Remove the exterior chaincase cover. The chaincase cover is attached using capscrews & lock washers.
4) Remove the digging drive chain from the outside chaincase. Refer to the Digging Drive Chain Installation for
the proper procedures for removing the drive chain.
NOTE: When removing a component for any extended period of time, be sure to stamp, write, or paint the
correct part number on the component. Part numbers may be obtained from the parts manual for the trencher.
This will assist in installing the component in the correct place as well as for inventory identification.
5) Remove the digging drive chain from the inside chaincase. Refer to the Digging Drive Chain Installation for the
proper procedures for removing the drive chain.
6) Remove the inside cap (21) from the inside chaincase area. The cap (21) is attached to the countershaft (14)
using six safety wire capscrews (51) and lock washers (52). Remove and discard the safety wire. Remove the
hardware.
7) Remove the countershaft driven sprocket (27) from the countershaft (14). Use a gear or sprocket puller to
remove the sprocket (27).
8) On the exterior chaincase side of the countershaft assembly, remove the outer bearing cap (17). The bearing
cap (17) is attached to the bearing housing (15) using six capscrews (49) and lock washers (53). Remove the
hardware and bearing cap (17) from the bearing housing (15).
9) Remove the inside cap (21) from the exterior chaincase area. The inside cap (21) is attached to the
countershaft (14) using six safety wire capscrews (51). Remove and discard the safety wire. Remove the
hardware.
10) Before removing the countershaft bearing housing (15) from the chaincase, paint, mark or other wise note the
position of the housing in the chaincase. This bearing housing is eccentric and is used for drive chain
adjustment. Marking the position of the housing (15) will save time in assembly of the components when
servicing is complete. Remove the outer bearing housing (15) from the exterior chaincase. The bearing housing
(15) is attached to the chaincase using sixteen capscrews (44) and lock washers (45). Remove the hardware.
Remove the bearing housing (15). The bearing housing (15) is provided with two back off holes to assist in
removing the housing (15). By inserting three ¾”-10UNC capscrews into the back off holes and tightening
each bolt alternately, the bearing housing will back out of the chaincase.
Caution: At this point the countershaft is supported only by the interior countershaft bearing (22). This will
mean that the countershaft (14) will be slightly unstable.
11) Once the bearing housing (15) is removed from the chaincase, remove the exterior countershaft bearing (22).
Remove the bearing (22) by using a small shop hammer and punch. Using the punch, tap evenly around the
perimeter of the bearing (22) until it slides freely from the bearing housing (15). Inspect the bearing for wear
or damage. With the trencher already down for service, now is an opportune time to replace these components
before failure. Remember that replacing any component before failure will save you time and money. When a
component fails, due to lack of maintenance, wear or damage, it usually does not fail on its own. There are
usually several related components that will be damaged as well.
12) Remove the bearing housing seal (23). Replace with a new seal when service is complete.
13) Between the bearing (22) and driver sprocket (20), is a sprocket spacer (26). This spacer (26) needs to be
removed, marked and set aside for future installation when service is completed.
14) Remove the driver sprocket (20) from the countershaft (14). The sprocket (20) is driven by the splined
countershaft (14). Use care to avoid damaging the countershaft splines when removing the sprocket.
15) Between the driver sprocket (20) and the interior countershaft bearing (22) is a sprocket spacer (24). This
spacer (24) needs to be removed, marked and set aside for future installation when service is completed.
16) At this point the countershaft (14) can be removed form the chaincase. Using a small shop hammer and a
SEAL DIRECT ION
SEAL DIRECT IO N
wooden block, tap the countershaft (14) from the inside chaincase. By gently tapping the countershaft, the
shaft can be dislodged from the interior bearing and removed from the chaincase.
17) Once the countershaft (14) is removed from the chaincase, the interior seal cap (19) may be removed. The
seal cap (19) is attached to the interior bearing housing (18) using eight capscrews (53) and lock washers
(49). Remove this hardware. Remove the seal cap (19). Remove and discard the interior seal (23). It is better
to replace these seals when servicing this section of the trencher because of the time involved in the service
procedure. Component replacement before failure is really a time and cost saving measure in the long run.
18) The bearing housing (18) is designed to assist in the removal of the interior bearing (22). There are three
tapped holes located on the seal side of the housing (18). These holes will allow you to insert a small punch
into the opening to assist in removing the bearing (22). By tapping evenly around the bearing perimeter, the
bearing will slide out of the bearing housing.
19) Remove and replace the interior countershaft seal (23).
20) Before removing the countershaft bearing housing (18) from the chaincase, paint, mark or other wise note the
position of the housing in the chaincase. This bearing housing is eccentric and is used for drive chain
adjustment. Marking the position of the housing (18) will save time in assembly of the components when
servicing is complete.
21) The interior bearing housing (18) is attached to the frame using twelve capscrews (44) and lock washers (45).
Remove this hardware from the housing. The bearing housing is designed with removal assistance holes.
Inserting a long threaded bolt in each of these assistance holes and tightening the bolts alternately can remove
the housing removed from the bore of the frame. Inspect the housing (18) for damage. Check the lubrication
holes for free flow of lubricant. If needed, repair or replace.
22) Use this same procedure for the disassembly of the opposite side countershaft assembly.
SEAL DIRECT ION
SEAL DIRECT IO N
Assembly
1) The first stage in the assembly process of the countershaft is the interior bearing housing (18). Before
attempting to install the bearing housing (18) make certain the bearing housing (18) and the chaincase are
free from any residual silicone from the factory installation. Before mounting the bearing housing, all traces of
the old sealant must be removed.
2) Install the o-ring seal (30) on the bearing housing (18) exterior.
a) Remove burrs, nicks, or grooves from the shaft.
b) Wipe the seal with lubricant before installation.
c) Install seal in to housing using press-fit tools such as an arbor or hydraulic press. Both types of tools
apply uniform pressure against a seal. If the press is not available, use a soft-faced mallet or bearing
d) After installation, check for other machine parts that could rub against the seal and cause friction and
heat.
3) Run a 3/8” bead of a good, silicone-based sealant around the mounting flange of the bearing housing (18).
This should include the tapped holes on the chaincase to insure a proper seal when the housing is installed.
4) Install the bearing housing into the bore of the chaincase. Align the bearing housing with the alignment marks
made when removing the housing. This alignment is imperative to the installation process. The bearing
housing is eccentric and is used for drive chain adjustment. Once the bearing housing (18) is in the bore, the
drive chain is adjusted by rotating the housing to adjust the chain tension. The housing (18) is attached to the
frame using sixteen capscrews (54) and lock washers (45). Torque these capscrews to 160-200 lb-ft.
5) Insert the countershaft bearing (22) into the bearing housing (18). This is done from the inside chaincase
position. Press the bearing (22) into the bore of the bearing housing (18) until the bearing is firmly seated.
6) Insert the interior countershaft bearing seal (23). Install the seal lip so that the grease will relieve to the
exterior chaincase side. See illustration for clarification.
heat.
7) Install the inside chaincase seal (23) into the seal cap (19). Install the seal lip so that grease can be prevented
from escaping into the interior chaincase. See the illustration for clarification.
8) Attach the interior chaincase seal cap (19). The seal cap (19) is attached to the bearing housing (18) using
eight capscrews (53) and lock washers (49). Torque these capscrews to 45-55 lb-ft.
SEAL DIRECT ION
SEAL DIRECT ION

9) Install the drive sprocket (20) onto the countershaft (14). Slide the sprocket (20) onto the countershaft (14)
until it seats completely on the spline of the shaft. See illustration for clarification.
10) Slide the sprocket spacer (24) onto the countershaft (14). The spacer (24) should be between the sprocket
(20) and the splined end of the countershaft (14). Insert the countershaft/sprocket sub-assembly into the
countershaft bearing (22) from the exterior chaincase side until seated firmly against the bearing (22). See
illustration for clarification.
11) From the inside chaincase, align the splines of the countershaft (14) and the driven sprocket (27), and slide the
sprocket (27) onto the countershaft (14). Press sprocket (27) onto the countershaft (14) until firmly seated
against the countershaft bearing (22).
12) Attach the sprocket retainer (21) to the countershaft (14) using six safety wire capscrews (51). Tighten the
capscrews (51) snugly at this point but do not torque.
13) At this time, sub-assemble the exterior chaincase bearing housing (15). Insert the interior seal (23) into the
bearing housing (15). Install the seal (23) so that the grease will relieve into the chaincase.
heat.
14) Insert the exterior bearing (22) into the bearing housing (15). Press the bearing (22) into the bore until firmly
seated.
15) Slide the bearing / sprocket spacer (26) over the end of the countershaft (14) until firmly seated against the
driver sprocket (20).
12) Install the bearing housing sub-assembly into the bore on the exterior chaincase. The first stage in the
assembly process of the countershaft is the interior bearing housing (18). Before attempting to install the
bearing housing (15) make certain the bearing housing (15) and the chaincase are free from any residual
silicone from the factory installation. Before mounting the bearing housing, all traces of the old sealant must be
removed.
13) Run a 3/8” bead of a good, silicone-based sealant around the mounting flange of the bearing housing (15).
This should include the tapped holes on the chaincase to insure a proper seal when the housing is installed.
14) Install the bearing housing into the bore of the chaincase. Align the bearing housing with the alignment marks
made when removing the housing. This alignment is imperative to the installation process. The bearing
housing is eccentric and is used for drive chain adjustment. Once the bearing housing (15) is in the bore, the
drive chain is adjusted by rotating the housing to adjust the chain tension. The housing (15) is attached to the
frame using sixteen capscrews (54) and lock washers (49). Torque these capscrews to 160-200 lb-ft.
15) Take care to not damage the interior seal (23) when sliding over the countershaft (14).
16) Attach the sprocket retainer (16) to the countershaft (14) using six safety wire capscrews (51) and lock
washers (52). Tighten capscrews securely and install safety wire.
17) Attach the exterior bearing cap (17) to the bearing housing (15). The cap (17) is attached using eight
capscrews (53) and lock washers (49). Torque to 45-55 lb-ft.
18) Tighten and secure the safety wire capscrews (51) on the interior chaincase (24) side of the countershaft (14).
19) Attach all grease lines and fittings.
20) For drive chain installation and adjustment procedures, see the Digging Drive Chain Service Section.
Differential Output
Service
1.) To service the differential output assembly, first remove the digging drive chain from the inside chaincase(s)
(22,23). For further instructions in this area, see the Digging Drive Service section of this manual.
SEAL DIRECTION
2.) The differential output sprocket (35) is retained on the differential shaft(s) (34) by a sprocket retainer (36).
The sprocket retainer is attached to the differential shaft(s) by three safety wire capscrews (28). Remove the
safety wire and discard. Replace with new wire when re-attaching. Remove capscrews (28) and retainer (36)
and set aside.
3.) Using a sprocket or gear puller, remove the differential sprocket (35). Inspect the sprocket for damage or
wear. Replace or repair if necessary.
4.) Remove the bearing cap (42). The bearing cap (42) is attached to the eccentric chaincase hub (43). Remove
the eight capscrews (48) and lock washers (49) that attach the cap (42).
5.) The bearing cap (42) contains an oil seal (41). Inspect the seal for damage or wear. Replace.
6.) Remove the differential shaft (34) from the differential (33). The differential shaft has a shoulder that will pull
the differential bearing (39) with it when it is removed. It may be beneficial to use a sprocket or gear puller to
assist in removing the shaft (34). Inspect the bearing for wear or damage. Replace.
7.) The differential bearing housing (37) has an internal seal (40) that prevents the transfer of lubricating fluids
between the differential bearing (39) and the differential chaincase (32). Inspect this seal for damage or wear.
Replace.
8.) Repeat the above procedures for the opposite side of the differential chaincase.
9.) The differential unit (33) is attached to the differential housing (32) using thirty-six capscrews and lock
washers. Remove this hardware and remove the entire differential unit to a suitable service location. The
differential unit service is discussed in the following section.
Assembly
1.) Clean the differential housing face (32) of any existing silicone sealer that may be present. Clean the old
remaining sealer from the differential unit (33). Make sure the surface of the differential housing (32) and the
differential unit (33) are free from any objects that may prevent a good seal when installation is complete.
2.) Install the differential unit (33) in the same position as when disassembled. This will ensure that the
differential rotation is correct for your trencher.
3.) Apply a liberal coating of silicone sealer around the differential mounting face as well as through the tapped
boltholes.
4.) Install the differential unit (33) into the differential housing (32). Attach the unit (33) using thirty-six
capscrews and lock washers. Torque capscrews to 240-300 lb-ft.
5.) Install internal seal (40) into the differential bearing housing (37). The seal lip should be turned to prevent
grease from relieving into the differential housing (32).
heat.
6.) Insert differential shaft (34) into the differential unit. Align the splined end of the shaft with the internal
spline of the differential unit (33). Press until firmly seated in the differential unit. Use caution to avoid
damaging the seal (40) upon shaft insertion.
SEAL DIRECTION
7.) Install bearing (39). Slide the bearing (39) over the end of the differential shaft (34) and press into the
bearing housing (37). Press bearing (39) into the housing until firmly seated against the housing shoulder.
8.) Inspect bearing / seal cap (42) for nicks, burrs or other imperfections. Install seal (41) into the seal cap (42).
Refer to seal installation notes in step 5. Seal lip should be turned so that the grease can be purged into the
chaincase. Refer to illustration for clarification. The cap (42) is attached using eight capscrews (48) and lock
washers (49). Torque hardware to 45-55 lb-ft.
9.) Install drive sprocket (35). Align the splines on the differential shaft (34) and the spline on the drive sprocket
(35). Press sprocket (35) onto the differential shaft (34)
until sprocket (35) is pressed against the differential
bearing (39). Use caution when installing sprocket to
avoid damaging the seal (41). There will be a space
from the end of the shaft (34) and the face of the
sprocket (35).
10.) Attach the sprocket retainer (36). The sprocket retainer
(36) is attached to the differential shaft (34) using
three safety wire capscrews (28). Torque these
capscrews to 225-280 lb-ft. Secure capscrews with
safety wire.
11.) Install digging drive chains. For completion of this
assembly, refer to the instructions located in the
digging drive service area.
Differential Unit
Adjustment Procedure for the Differential &

Bevel Gears:
1) Install pinion (5) in housing (1) complete with
bearings.
2) Install washer (4) and nut (3).
3) Torque nut (3) to obtain a rolling torque of 2.25
to 5.06 N•m (20 to 45 lb. in.). This is the torque
required to rotate pinion (5). NOTE: Reduce
preload torque to 1.65 to 4.46 N•m (15 to 39 lb.
in.) for machines over 100 hours operation.
4) When the torque needed to turn the pinion is
correct, stake nut (3) by peening the collar into
the slot in the pinion shaft. See “Illustration A”
for the correct tooling and dimensions. NOTE:
The nut may be reused if the collar is not cracked
during removal or restaking.
5) Install pinion subassembly in carrier assembly
with 80 percent of shim pack (6) and bevel gear
group in carrier assembly with the axle centerline
in the vertical position and the teeth of ring gear
(9) toward the top as shown.
6) Torque on of the two bolts (8) in each cap 70
N•m (50 lb. ft.), the other at 5 N•m (4 lb. ft.).
7) Move adjusting nuts (7) and (13) to a position
that maintains gear backlash (but not tight gear
mesh) and a slight bearing endplay.
8) Reposition the differential assembly so that the
pinion shaft is in the vertical position with the
gear end down.
9) Measure the torque required to rotate pinion (5)
and record the measured torque.
10) Move adjusting nut (13) while rotating bevel
gear (9) to zero backlash position. Move
adjusting nut (13) back to the nearest lock
position. (Maximum back off movement one lug
on adjusting nut).
11) Move adjusting nut (7) until the torque to rotate
pinion (5) is increased 20% more than pinion
(5) torque in Step 9. This is the seated position.
12) Move adjusting nut (7) three lugs to the nearest
lock position.
13) Measure the backlash between ring gear (9)
and pinion gear (5). The backlash must be
0.40-0.12 mm (0.016-0.005 in.).
14) If the backlash does not meet specification, retract one nut the same amount the opposite nut is advanced to
keep the same bearing preload.
15) Torquebolts(8)to1825-175N•m(1340-130lb-ft).
16) After the backlash and preload adjustments have been made, the tooth contact between pinion (5) and the
ring gear (9) must be checked, as follows:
a) Put a small amount of Prussian blue, red lead, or paint on the teeth of ring gear (9).
b) Turn pinion (5) in both directions.
c) The correct area of tooth contact starts near the inside end on the teeth ring gear (9) and goes a
maximum 50 percent down the length of the teeth. See “Illustration B” for the correct area of tooth
contact.
17) If the same area of tooth contact looks like “Illustration C”, use the procedure that follows:
a) Add some of shims (6).
b) Perform Steps 8-17 again.
c) Perform Step 18 again to check the area of tooth contact.
18) If the same area of tooth contact looks like “Illustration D”, use the procedure that follows:
a) Remove some of the shims (6).
b) Perform steps 8 thru 17 again.
c) Perform step 18 again to check the area of tooth contact.
NOTE: Always make sure the backlash adjustment is correct before an adjustment is made to the area of
tooth contact. Several adjustments to the backlash and tooth contact may be necessary to get the correct
adjustments.
19) Install adjusting nut locks.
20) Install pin (14) and cover (16) without shims (15). Tighten bolts (17) enough to remove any clearance
between the pin and the cover.
21) Measure the distance between the faces of the cover and the axle housing. Install an amount of shims (15) to
get the correct clearance at (A), the same thickness as the distance plus 0.03-0.08 mm (0.001-0.003 in.).
22) Install retainer (2).
Digging Sprocket Assembly
1) Remove the digging chain from the headshaft sprocket(s). Refer to the Boom Assembly section of this
manual for more information.
2) The digging sprocket (1) must be accessed through a hinged cover in the boom hood (bonnet).
3) Remove the twelve capscrews (6) and lock nuts (9) that attach the bolting hub(s) (10) to the sprocket(s) (1).
4) Remove the sprocket(s) (1) from the bolting hub(s) (10). The digging sprockets are split for easier
installation. Keep the sprocket pairs together for proper fit and operation.
NOTE: When removing a part for any extended period of time, be sure to write, stamp, or paint the correct part
number on the component. Part numbers may be obtained from the parts manual for that trencher. This will assist
in installing the part at a later time as well as for inventory identification.
Service Manual
Table of Contents
Model T1660M
Section Three
CONVEYOR ASSEMBLY ............................................................................................................................ 1
CONVEYOR DRIVE PULLEY...................................................................................................................... 3
CONVEYOR IDLER ................................................................................................................................... 4
DRIVE PULLEY ASSEMBLY....................................................................................................................... 6
CONVEYOR BELT INSTALLATION............................................................................................................ 7
CONVEYOR BELT ADJUSTMENT .............................................................................................................. 7
CONVEYOR BELT INSTALLATION (DETAILED)........................................................................................ 8
Service Section 3 0
Conveyor Assembly
The conveyor is a hydraulically driven, center guided, 42 in.(107 cm) belt width conveyor. It is infinitely variable in
speed from 0 to 980 ft/min (300 m/min) and reversible in direction for spoil deposit on either side of the trench.
The standard conveyor folds at a point to maintain the trenchers’ shipping width, even with the outside of the track
pads.
Disassembly
"A"
"B"
"D" "C"
Before beginning to work on any component of the trencher, turn off the trenchers’ engine and remove the ignition
key. Place service or maintenance tag in the controls area to inform personnel of work being performed on the
trencher. This may prevent the accidental start up of the trencher engine while any of the trencher components are
being serviced.
1) Disconnect the hydraulic hoses that are connected to the conveyor drive motors. This will disable the conveyor
from activating. NOTE: Do not allow the hydraulic hoses to drop below the level of the hydraulic tank. This
could cause the hydraulic oil to be drained from the tank. Always plug or cap any hydraulic hoses that are not
connected to prevent contaminants from entering the hydraulic system.
2) The following disassembly notes will completely tear down the conveyor assembly for service. If this amount of
disassembly is not needed, proceed to the service section of your choice. Be sure to follow all safety
precautions when working on these components to prevent serious personal injury.
3) Remove the conveyor flashing (8). The flashing (8) is attached to the conveyor frame (1,2) using nineteen
elevator bolts (18) and lock nuts (19) per side. Remove the hardware and the flashing (8) from the conveyor.
SECTION "A"
Inspect the flashing (8) for damage and wear. Replace if necessary.
1 Service Section 3
4) Remove the conveyor belt (7). To remove the conveyor belt (7), it will be necessary to remove the conveyor
belt lacing hinge pin. Rotate the conveyor belt until the lacing hinge pin is accessible from one end of the
conveyor.
a. Release the tension on the conveyor belt (7) by loosening the jam nut (15) and the other jam nut to the
"A"
left on the Hydro Adjuster (5). When the tension on the conveyor belt (7) has been released, proceed with
the next step.
b. Dislodge any material that may be binding the belt hinge pin.
c. Twist the hinge pin ¼ turn at both ends and remove the pin.
d. Remove the belt (7) from the conveyor frame.
5) To remove the drive motor (28) and gearbox assembly from the pulley shaft, loosen the two setscrews on the
gearbox shaft end. Then loosen the fulcrum bolt and nut of the torque arm assembly located on the top of the
gearbox. Rotate the fulcrum part to allow the removal of the motor (28) and gearbox assembly (2) from the
pulley shaft (6). Remove the six capscrews (21) and lock nuts (20) from the two pulley retainers (14). Remove
the pulley retainers. NOTE: Do not lose or misplace the gearbox shaft key.
6) Using a chain hoist or small mobile crane, attach a lift chain or strap to the drive pulley assembly (1). When
suitably supported, detach the drive pulley assembly from the conveyor frame and place in a suitable work
location for servicing.
Service Section 3 2
Conveyor Drive Pulley
SECTION "A"
Motor Side – Drive Pulley Disassembly
1) Detach the drive motor (28) sub-assembly from the conveyor gearbox (2) by removing the four capscrews (24)
and hard washers (25). Place the drive motor (28) sub-assembly in a suitable work location for further service.
2) Remove the two take-up bearings (3) by loosening the two setscrews on each bearing and sliding them off
each end of the shaft (6). Inspect the parts for damage. Replace if necessary.
3) With the key slots in the upper position, remove the shaft (6) being careful not to lose the four shaft keys (8).
Inspect the parts for damage. Replace if necessary. NOTE: When removing a component for any extended
period of time, be sure to stamp, write, or paint the correct part number on the component. Part numbers may
be obtained from the parts manual for the trencher. This will assist the mechanic in installing the component in
the correct location as well as for inventory identification.
Removal – Drive Pulley Scraper Assembly

1) To remove the belt scraper (13) from the belt scraper frame
(12), remove the two capscrews (18) and lock nuts (19).
2) Remove fourteen elevator bolts (23) and lock nuts (17).
Inspect belt scraper (13) for damage and wear. Replace it if
necessary.
"B"
PULLEY SCRAPER ASSEMBLY
3 Service Section 3
Conveyor Idler
SECTION "B"
Removal – Conveyor Idler (Return)
1) To detach the conveyor return idler (6) requires the removal of the two capscrews (12) and lock nuts (13)
that attach the two-bolt bearing (10) to the conveyor frame (2). Remove the hardware and remove the idler
assembly (6) from the frame.
2) Inspect the bearings (10) for damage or wear. Replace if necessary.
3) Inspect the rubber tire idlers on the conveyor return idler for damage. Replace if necessary.
Removal – Conveyor Idler (Standard)

1) To detach the conveyor standard idler (5) requires the removal of the two capscrews (14) and lock nuts (15)
that attach the two-bolt bearing (9) to the conveyor frame (2). Remove the hardware and remove the idler
assembly (6) from the frame.
2) Inspect the bearings (9) for damage or wear. Replace if necessary.
3) Inspect the rubber tire idlers on the conveyor standdard idler for damage. Replace if necessary.
Removal – Conveyor Idler (Pivot)

1) To detach the conveyor pivot idler (4)
requires the removal of the two
capscrews (14) and lock nuts (15) that
attach the two-bolt bearing (9) to the
conveyor frame (2). Remove the
hardware and remove the idler assembly
(4) from the frame.
2) Inspect the bearings (9) for damage or
wear. Replace if necessary.
3) Inspect the rubber tire idlers on the
conveyor pivot idler (4) for damage SECTION "C"
Replace, if necessary.
Service Section 3 4
SECTION "B"
Installation – Conveyor Idler (Return)
1) Place one flange bearing (10) on each end of the idler (6) as illustrated. Place the idler assembly (6) into the
conveyor frame (2) and line up in one set of mounting holes. Attach the idler assembly (6) to the conveyor
frame using two capscrews (12) and lock nuts (13) per bearing (10). Torque the capscrews to 30-35 lb-ft.
2) Repeat step # 1 until all idlers (6) are installed into the conveyor frame (2). The pivot idler is located below
the standard idler assembly (5) on the extreme ends of the conveyor.
Installation – Conveyor Idler (Standard)

2) Repeat step # 1 until all idlers (5) are installed into the conveyor frame (2). The standard idler is located at
fourteen places on the conveyor frame.
3) Repeat step # 1 until all idlers (5) are installed into the conveyor frame (2). The standard idler is located at
fourteen places on the conveyor frame.
Installation – Conveyor Idler (Pivot)

1) Place one flange bearing (9) on each end
of the idler (4) as illustrated. Place the
idler assembly (4) into the conveyor
frame (2) and line up in one set of
mounting holes. Attach the idler assembly
(4) to the conveyor frame using two
capscrews (14) and lock nuts (15) per
bearing (9). Torque the capscrews to 45-
55 lb-ft.
2) Repeat step # 1 until both idlers (4) are SECTION "C"
installed into the conveyor frame (2). The
pivot idler is located at each end before
the two hinge pins on the conveyor frame.
5 Service Section 3
Drive Pulley Assembly
SECTION "A"
1) Install the four shaft keys (8) on the shaft (6) and insert into pulley the pulley drum in alignment with the
slots.
2) Install the two take-up bearings (3) by sliding on each end of the shaft. Note: Make sure the sides with the
setscrews are facing towards the ends of the shaft. Using a small chain hoist or mobile crane, attach a lift
chain or tow strap to the drive pulley assembly (1). When suitably supported, move the drive pulley (1) to the
conveyor frame (2,3). Align the take-up bearing slot with the conveyor frame pulley guides and insert the
pulley assembly into the frame. Tighten the two setscrews on each bearing.
3) Attach the drive motor subassembly (28) to the
conveyor gearbox (2) by installing the four capscrews
(24) and hard washers (25). Torque to 65-80 lb-ft.
4) Insert the gearbox shaft key into the slot designed in
the shaft. Using a small chain hoist or mobile crane,
attach a lift chain or tow strap to the gearbox
assembly (2). When suitably supported, move the
gearbox assembly (2) onto the drive pulley shaft.
5) Install the six capscrews (21) and lock nuts (20) to
the pulley retainers (14). Torque to 90–110 lb-ft.
Rotate the fulcrum part of the torque arm assembly
to allow installation on the gearbox. Tighten the
fulcrum bolt and nut on the torque arm assembly.
Tighten the two setscrews on the gearbox shaft end.
"A"
Service Section 3 6
Conveyor Belt Installation
Install the conveyor belt onto the conveyor frame. Using a set of wide mouth channel locks or clamps, pull the
conveyor belt ends together until the lacing pin can be inserted. For more information on conveyor belting, see the
CONVEYOR BELT INSTALLATION (DETAILED) in this section.
Conveyor Belt Adjustment
1) To adjust the tension on the conveyor belt, follow the procedures listed below:
a) Slide the drive pulley toward the outside of the conveyor frame as is possible.
b) Tighten the jam nut (8) closest to the idler pulley(1) against the conveyor frame.
c) Using the jam nut (8), you can adjust the tension and alignment on the belt.
d) Measure the distance from the conveyor frame where the adjustment bolt (7) mounts to the take up
bearing. This distance should be the same on both sides of the idler pulley to help the conveyor belt
maintain a straight track.
e) Adjust the tension on the conveyor belt by turning the jam nut (8) against the conveyor frame equally on
both sides of the drive pulley. When the proper belt tension has been reached, tighten the second jam nut
(8) against the conveyor frame to prevent belt tension from easing due to vibration.
2) Install the conveyor flashing(10). One piece of conveyor flashing (10) is required on each side of the
conveyor. The conveyor flashing (10) is attached to the frame using sixteen capscrews, lock washers, and
hex nuts. Tighten the capscrews securely.
3) Reconnect the hydraulic hoses to the conveyor drive motor.
The conveyor assembly is now complete. Start the engine following all safety guidelines and run conveyor. Check
for oil leaks and that the conveyor belt is tracking properly.
7 Service Section 3
Conveyor Belt Installation (Detailed)
Flexco Bolt Hinged fasteners provide a flexible joint for belts operating over small pulleys. Because the
joint is easily separated by simply removing the hinge pin, entire belt sections may be added or eliminated.
Designed as a compression fastener, the Flexco Bolt Hinged model is fastened to the belt ends with high
strength bolts. These compress the plates into the belt cover. The fastener teeth that embed in the belt without
damage to the belt carcass provide additional holding capability.
This combination distributes the splice tension across the entire plate width, while the teeth secure the
fastener into the belt carcass to resist pullout.
TEMPLATE
Used in conjunction with the “clip and gauge rod” method to install complete joints, the template acts as a
guide to accurately punch or drill holes into the belt ends. This insures proper fastener alignment.
Exclusive concave cut made with Flexco Bolt Hinged template or aligning holder provides uniform tension
across full belt end and compensates for “squeeze out”, which is common to all joints and reduces potential for
splice edge failure.
Service Section 3 8
Application Instructions
REMOVING THE HINGE PIN :
Release tension on the conveyor belt. Refer to instructions in belt adjustment procedures. Dislodge any material
that may be bending pin. Twist the pin ¼ turn at both ends and remove.
1. Square belt end at right angle to centerline. Make a concave cut across the belt using a knife and a template.
2. Flexco Curved Template is required to obtain maximum joint strength.
3. Place template arrow on centerline. Align template edge with belt edge. Nail to belt, and using Flexco Power
Punch, punch the bolt holes in the belt.
4. Position fastener strip on belt end with the “Flexco Hinge” on top. Assemble nuts and bolts, running nuts down
by hand. Be sure bolt head engages lug on fastener.
5. Using the Flexco Power Wrench, tighten the nuts at the arrow first, then the remaining nuts. The teeth should
penetrate the bottom of the belt. The rubber cover should pucker behind the top of the plates.
6. Insert the gauge pin into the loops of the fasteners and using a pair of Flexco Bolt Breakers, break off the
bolts. Using a slight rocking motion while keeping the bolt breakers down tight on the nuts will remove the
bolts cleanly.
7. Insert the tubing into the loops of the fasteners. Use the gauge pin to guide the tubing into place. Pull out the
gauge pin.
8. Mesh the loops of each side of the splice together and insert the hinge pin. Inserting the gauge pin first and
feeding the hinge pin from the opposite side of the joint while backing out the gauge pin eases hinge pin
insertion.
9. Notch trailing edges of all belts 24” or wider.
Illustration 1 Illustration 2 Illustration 3
9 Service Section 3
Service Manual
Table of Contents
Model T1660M
Section Four
CONVEYOR SHIFT ASSEMBLY ................................................................................................................. 1
CONVEYOR SHIFT GEARBOX ASSEMBLY................................................................................................. 3
Service Section 4 0
Conveyor Shift Assembly
1 Service Section 4
The conveyor shift on the trencher allows the operator to transversely shift the conveyor from the left-hand side of
the trencher to the right-hand side of the trencher to deposit the trench spoil in the desired location. Moving the
hydraulic control lever located on the left-hand side of the control panel actuates the conveyor shift. Moving the
lever away from the operator will cause the conveyor to shift to the left by actuating a small hydraulic motor
attached to a mechanical gearbox. Moving the lever toward the operator will cause the conveyor to shift to the
right. It is a very simple and efficient design that provides trouble-free operation and ease of maintenance.
Disassembly
1) Disconnect the hydraulic hoses from the conveyor drive motors. Using a small mobile crane for support, attach
to and take up tension on the conveyor assembly.
NOTE: Be sure to plug or cap-off the hydraulic hoses to prevent contaminants from entering the system.
2) Detach the conveyor shift hold-down brackets (1,2) from the tractor body. Remove the two capscrews (8), lock
washers (13), and hex nuts (15) from each of these brackets (1,2). Remove the brackets (1,2) from the
trencher and conveyor frame.
CAUTION: When these brackets (1,2) are removed from the frame, the conveyor will be very unstable, Be
careful to prevent any injury.
3) Using a small mobile crane or suitable hoist, remove the conveyor assembly from the trencher tractor body.
This will allow better access to servicing the conveyor shift assembly.
4) To replace the conveyor shift shaft mount (7), remove the two capscrews (10), lock washers (13), and hex
nuts (15) that attach it to the tractor body. Once the hardware is removed, detach the shift shaft mount (7).
5) To service the shift shaft gearbox (3), follow the procedures listed below:
a. Disconnect the hydraulic hoses from the shift motor (4).
NOTE: Be sure to plug or cap the hydraulic hoses to prevent contaminants from entering the system.
b. Remove the mounting bolts that attach the drive motor (4) to the shift gearbox (3). Detach the motor and
put to one side.
c. Remove the mounting bolts (9) and lock washers (12) from the shift gearbox (3). Detach the gearbox (3)
from the shift shaft (5). Remove the gearbox (3) from the trencher and carry to a suitable service area.
d. Inspect the shift shaft (5) for wear. Repair or replace, if necessary.
Assembly
1) Attach the shift gearbox (3) to the mounting brackets located on the tractor body. Install the four mounting
bolts (9) and lock washers (12). Torque to 195-240 ft/lbs.
2) Attach the drive motor (4) to the gearbox (3) using the required mounting hardware. Connect the hydraulic
hoses.
3) Slide the shaft mount (7) on the shift shaft (5) as illustrated. Install the shift shaft sub-assembly into the
tractor body. Place one end of the shift shaft (5) into the gearbox (3). Align the mounting holes for the shaft
mount (7) and the tractor body holes. Install two capscrews 910), lock washers 913), and hex nuts (11).
Torque the capscrews to 300-380 ft/lbs once the assembly is aligned.
4) Using a small crane or suitable hoist, install the conveyor in the tractor body. The conveyor frame should align
with the shift shaft drive sprockets. The conveyor should continue being supported by the crane unit until the
shaft hold-down brackets (1,2) are mounted and secured.
5) Attach the hold-down brackets (1,2) to the tractor body as illustrated. There should be one left-hand and one
right-hand bracket per side of the tractor body. The brackets are mounted using two capscrews (8), lock
washers (13), and hex nuts (11) per bracket. This hardware should be torqued to 300-380 ft/lbs. Repeat
procedure until all brackets are installed.
6) Connect the conveyor drive motor hydraulic hoses.
7) Check the area for personnel and sound the trencher horn. Allow all personnel to get clear of the trencher.
Start the trencher engine. Once the engine is running and the area is clear of personnel, shift the conveyor first
left, then right to check for proper alignment and restrictions. If the conveyor shift is working properly, check
for hydraulic leaks on all connections.
Service Section 4 2
Conveyor Shift Gearbox Assembly
P/N 48-910-39-020
3 Service Section 4
Conveyor Shift Gearbox Assembly
This procedure is to clarify the proper lubricant to be used on the conveyor shift gearboxes on all trenchers using
this gearbox on the conveyor shift.
Lubricant Type: Mobilgrease® HP
Procedure:
1. Remove lower or bottom plug (29) and drain 90W gear oil.
2. Install grease fitting (6409) in bottom plughole.
3. Remove top plug (5).
4. Install grease (Mobilgrease® HP) through the bottom grease fitting until grease relieves through the top plug
opening in the housing. Amount of lubricant: 28 – 35 Oz.
5. Reinstall the top housing plug (5).
The housing should be full of grease and the seal (11) should not be damaged.
Field Maintenance:
Customer’s service technicians should be briefed on the proper lubricating procedures of the conveyor shift
gearbox.
1. Remove top plug (5) in the housing before installing grease.

2. Install grease form the bottom fitting until it relieves from the top plug opening in the housing.
3. Reinstall the top housing plug (5).
Service Section 4 4
5 Service Section 4
Service Manual
Table of Contents
Model T1660M
Section Five
ENGINE DATA.......................................................................................................................................... 1
REPAIR INDICATORS FOR ENGINES ...................................................................................................... 2
TRANSMISSION DATA............................................................................................................................. 4
DRIVESHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS................................................................................................... 5
INSPECTION AND LUBRICATING UNIVERSAL JOINTS........................................................................... 6
ENGINE RADIATORS AND OIL COOLERS .............................................................................................. 10
AIR CLEANER SERVICE TIPS................................................................................................................. 11
VACUATOR VALVES ............................................................................................................................... 13
FILTER REPLACEMENT LIST.................................................................................................................. 15
FLUID REPLACEMENT LIST ................................................................................................................... 17
LUBRICATION CHART ........................................................................................................................... 19
WHAT IS A POWER TAKE OFF? ............................................................................................................. 20
INSTALLATION AND CONVERSION OF PTO'S ....................................................................................... 20
PTO TROUBLESHOOTING ...................................................................................................................... 23
Service Section 5 0
Engineering Services Parts Department
(865) 408-2100 1-800-894-4618
Engine Data
22000175 Engine Assembly
The following data is being provided for your information. For all technical, repairs, and service information, please
refer to the appropriate Caterpillar manual. The manuals may be obtained from your local Caterpillar dealer or
through your Trencor Parts Department at an additional charge. Your trencher was originally supplied with a
Caterpillar Operations and Parts Manual for your engine.
Engine: Caterpillar C27

Design: V12, 4 Stroke-Cycle Diesel Engine
Displacement: 1648 Cubic Inches
Horsepower: 800 @ 2,100 RPM
Fuel Consumption: 37.8 GPH (146 LPH), Average
Oil Capacity: 18 US Gallons (68.1Liters)
Maintenance Parts
20000924 Filter, Fuel/Water Separator.......................................................................... Qty. 1

20000934 Filter, Fuel – Primary ....................................................................................Qty. 2
20000935 Filter, Oil – Engine ....................................................................................... Qty. 1
Oil Type Delvac 1300 15W-40 ..................................................................... Qty. 18.0 gal
1 Service Section 5
Repair Indicators For Engines
Engine Warning Signs Possible Causes
1. Excess black smoke at full load (hot, unburned fuel) Dirty primary/secondary air cleaner
Overloading
Over fueling
Operating in too high a gear
Faulty turbocharger
2. Blue Smoke (oil consumption) Hours on engine

Worn rings / liners
Worn turbocharger seals
Worn valve products
3. White smoke (steam: water in combustion chamber) Leaking head gasket

(on start up: unburned fuel) Cracked head and / or liners
Faulty injector
Incorrect starting procedure
Incorrect fuel injection timing
Low quality fuel
4. Increased oil consumption / excess blow-by Hours on engine

Worn or broken rings / liners
Worn turbocharger seals
Worn valve guides
5. Unusual noises Malfunctioning fuel nozzles/injectors

Worn piston pin bushings
Worn rod / main bearings
Malfunctioning turbocharger
Too much valve lash
6. Lack of Power Dirty air cleaner

Dirty fuel filter
Inexact governor linkage adjustment
Malfunctioning fuel nozzles/injectors
Slipping torque converter
Improper set point
Low quality fuel
Service Section 5 2
Allison DP-8962
Transmission
3 Service Section 5
(865) 408-2100 1-800-894-4618
Transmission Data
Transmission Assembly, Engine
The following data is being provided for your information. For all technical, repair and service information, refer to
the appropriate Allison Component manual. These manuals may be obtained from your local Allison dealer or
through the Trencor Parts Department at an additional charge.
Transmission, DP-8962
A 5-speed transmission, particularly suitable for high torque rise diesel engines, in up to 975 net hp (727 kW) in
off highway equipment.
Maximum Input: 975 hp (727 kW)

Net Input Torque: 3100 lb-ft. (4204 N·m)
Filter Element: PF-151........................................................................................................Qty. 2
Oil Change: 500 Hours Delvac 1300 15W-40 ................................................. Qty. 21 US gal
................................................................................................... 79.4 Liters
To add transmission oil, locate the black hose attached to the wall opposite of the cab
in the engine compartment. Remove cap and fill with oil until the proper level is
acquired per the sight glass.
Filter Change: 250 Hours………………………………………………………………………………………………….Qty. 2
Service Section 5 4
DRIVESHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS
One of the most common devices used to transmit power in automobiles, trucks, and construction equipment is the
driveshaft. It sends torque through an angle between the engine and the axle. The drive shaft must also be
capable of transferring the necessary RPM required to attain the desired speed of operation.
The driveshaft must provide a smooth, uninterrupted flow of power to the axle. The axle is not attached directly to
the frame of the vehicle, but rides suspended by springs and travels in an irregular, floating motion. This means
the driveshaft must be able to contract, expand, and change operating angles when going over bumps or
depressions. Therefore, it has to be constructed to adapt to the driving and road conditions.
This requirement is fulfilled by the use of universal joints, which permit the drive shaft to operate at different
angles. A slip joint permits the contracting or expanding action to take place. The most popular universal joint is
the cross and bearing type which, combined with two yokes, permits angular variations in operation. The
components of the various makes of universal joints may not be interchangeable and must only be assembled with
compatible products. Improperly assembled or worn components can affect the entire driveline, and result in
undesirable vibration or failure.
Driveshafts also have a critical operating speed. Careful consideration must be observed during vehicle design to
be certain that driveshaft RPM is below the critical operating speed. On long wheel base vehicles, it is sometimes
necessary to use two or three shafts with intermediate bearing supports to obtain the necessary shaft lengths.
Driveshaft alterations involving an increase in total shaft length should not be make without checking first with the
vehicle manufacturer.
Driveshafts vary in construction according to their function and location in the vehicle. They may transmit torque
directly from the transmission to the rear axle, or from the transmission to an auxiliary transmission, or through a
midship bearing and then to the rear axles, another driveshaft is usually used between axles.
The simplest application is one connecting the transmission with the rear axle. This driveshaft uses two universal
joints, one at each end of the driveshaft. The end closest to the transmission usually is the slip joint using a
splined yoke and a splined tube shaft to provide slip movement. The other end contains a tube yoke welded in the
tubing.
If the driveshaft connects the transmission to an auxiliary transmission, a short-coupled joint is used with limited
slip movement to provide for convenience of installation. If the driveshaft connects the transmission to a midship
bearing, a simple permanent joint and shaft assembly would be used since slip movement is not necessary.
Shaft support bearings are used when the overall length of the shaft could exceed critical length standards based
upon RPM and tube size. When an auxiliary transmission or shaft support bearings application is used, a second
driveshaft is required from those units to the rear axle. This driveshaft application requires a slip joint and a
permanent joint attached to the axle.
5 Service Section 5
INSPECTION AND LUBRICATING UNIVERSAL JOINTS
INSPECTION
To keep the truck operating smoothly and economically the driveshaft must be carefully inspected at
regular intervals. U-joint failures, vibrations, and center bearing (shaft support bearings) failures are caused by
such things as loose end yokes, excessive radial looseness, slip spline radial looseness, bent shaft tubing, or
missing Welch plugs in the slip yoke.
1. Check the output and input end yokes on both transmission and axle, or axles, for looseness. If loose,
disconnect driveshaft and re-torque end yoke retaining nut to specification. If yoke replacement is required,
check for manufacturer’s recommendation regarding replacement frequency of end yoke retaining nut. Always
torque nut to manufacturer’s specification.
2. If end yokes are tight, check for excessive radial looseness of the transmission output shaft and axle input and
output shafts in their respective bearings. Consult transmission and axle manufacturer’s specifications for
acceptable radial looseness limits and method of checking.
3. Check for excessive looseness across the ends of the joints. This looseness should not exceed .006 in.
maximum.
4. Check the slip spline for excessive radial movement. Radial looseness between the slip yoke and the tube shaft
should not exceed .007 in.
5. Check the shaft for damaged, bent tubing or missing balance weights. Make certain there is not build up of
foreign material on the shaft, such as undercoat or concrete. If found, they should be removed.
6. If runout readings are required, they should be taken with the driveshaft mounted in the truck or vehicle, with
transmission in neutral and pulling axle shafts, or by jacking rear wheels of the ground and placing axles on
jack stands. This will allow rotating driveshaft by hand to check indicator readings. The runout readings taken
at the various locations illustrated should not exceed an additional .010 T.I.R. over readings shown.
7. For an inboard and outboard slip yoke assembly design, check to be sure the Welch plug is not loose or
missing.... if it is, repair or replace it. (NOTE: Check driveshaft length to be sure the tube shaft (stub shaft) is
not hitting the Welch plug and knocking it out.)
LUBRICATION
Among the most common causes of joint and slip spline failure is lack of proper lubrication. Properly sized Spicer
U-joints that are adequately re-lubricated at recommended intervals will normally meet or exceed fleet operational
requirements. Inadequate re-lube cycles and failure to lubricate the joints and slip spline properly not only cause
joint failure but lead to other problems such as slip spline seizures and shaft support bearing failure. Proper re-
lubrication flushes the joints thus removing abrasive contaminants from the U-joint bearings.
Lubricants for Universal Joints
Normal Application - Use a good quality lithium soap base EP grease meeting the *N.L.G.I. grades 1 or 2
specifications.
Service Section 5 6
Severe Application - Use a good quality lithium soap base or equivalent EP grease having an operating
temperature range of +325 F to -10 F. In addition, the grease should meet the N.L.G.I. grades 1 or 2
specifications.
Consult your local lubricant source for greases that meet these specifications.
*National Lubricating Grease Institute
The lubricant that is used for the U-Joints is satisfactory for the slip splines.
Re-lube Cycles
Re-lubrication cycles vary depending on the service requirements and operating conditions of the truck. Refer to
the trencher manufacturers’ lube chart for re-lube frequency.
Lubricants for Sliding Spline Sections Steel Splines:
Lubricate drive shaft steel splines with a good extreme pressure (EP) grease recommended by lubricant
manufacturers. Spicer has adopted as standard the extreme pressure grease satisfying NLGI Grade 1.
Glidecote Splines:
Greases recommended by lubricant manufacturers for lubricating universal joints have been found satisfactory for
lubricating Glidecote splines.
Removal and Installation of Universal Joint Driveshafts
The driveshaft must transmit torque from the transmission to the axle. This requirement makes it necessary that
the driveshaft be capable of transmitting the maximum low gear torque developed by the engine and transmission
ratio and any shock loads which may develop. It must also be capable of rotating at the maximum speed required
for trencher operation. This speed is engine speed. The driveshaft must operate through constantly changing
relative angles between transmission, driveshaft, and axle.
The length of the driveshaft must be capable of changing while transmitting torque. Length changes are caused by
necessary axle movement due to torque reaction, road deflections, braking loads, increase or decrease in payload,
etc.
Tools Required:
3/8” Square Chisel Alignment Bar

Ball Peen Hammer Nylon Support Strap
½” Socket Wrench Tool Kit (#7057)
Sockets: 9/16” & 5/8” Hydraulic Floor Jack
Torque Wrench
7 Service Section 5
Removal
NOTE: Before removal of the driveshaft, mark the slip yoke assembly and tube shaft with a marking stick or paint
to assure proper alignment when re-assembled.
1. Bend tabs of lock strap away from bolt heads.
2. Remove eight bolts from full circumference of u-joint.
3. Method of driveshaft removal should be one that assures safety and ease of removal to the mechanic without
damage to the driveshaft, transmission, and axle components.
NOTE: Examples of suggested methods; Hydraulic Jack Method, Puller Method.
Disassembly
1. Clean all driveshafts with a cleaning solution and brush. (Caution: Use a non-flammable cleaner). Wipe dry
prior to disassembly.
2. Place driveshaft in bench vise, clamping on yoke adjacent to u-joint cross and bearing being removed.
3. Complete removal of u-joints from driveshaft by disassembling bearing assemblies from slip yoke and tube
yoke using the same method as described under driveshaft removal.
After removing u-joints, both ends, inspect cross hole surfaces for damage or raised metal. If driveshaft series
is 1610, 1710, 1760, 1810 0r 1880, we recommend using the alignment bar to inspect for this damage by
sliding through both cross holes simultaneously. The alignment bar will also identify yoke lugs that have taken
a set because of excessive torque. The damaged or raised metal or distorted lugs can be cause for premature
failure.
Raised metal can be removed with a rat-tail or half round file and emery cloth. At this time, clean cross-holes
of yokes on transmission and axle and qualify with alignment bar gage as described above.
Note: If after proper cleaning of cross-holes, the alignment bar will not pass through the cross holes
simultaneously, the yoke lugs are distorted. The yoke or yokes should be replaced.
Service Section 5 8
Reassemble
Place each end of the driveshaft, less universal joints, in a bench vise. Qualify the yokes at each end with the
alignment bar. Check the paint marking “placed on the tube and sleeve assembly prior to removing from trencher”
to be sure that they are lined up. If the actual alignment or phasing that existed is unknown or the slip yoke
assembly was removed from the driveshaft, prepare to install the slip yoke assembly to achieve what is known as
standard (in-line) phasing.
1. Remove the universal joint kit from the box, and remove all four bearing assemblies. Rotate the cross to
inspect for the presence of the one way check valve in each lube hole of all four trunnions. Then position
the cross until the zerk points to the opposite end of the shaft and is in line with the zerk mounted on the
slip yoke assembly.
2. Place the cross trunnion opposite the cross zerk between the yoke lugs and through the cross hole. Move
the trunnion through the cross hole beyond the outer machine face of the yoke lug. Place a bearing
assembly over the trunnion diameter and square or align to cross hole. If bearing assembly binds in cross
hole, tap with ball peen hammer directly in center of the bearing assembly plate. This will self align bearing
to cross hole.(Do not tap on the outer edges of the bearing plate.) It can then be pressed in with the finger
or the hand. If you cannot press in by finger or hand pressure, the bearing assembly is still off square in
cross hole or the cross hole has not been properly cleaned and qualified with the alignment bar.
3. When the bearing assembly is completely seated, use grade 8 capscrews that are furnished with the kit
and insert them through the capscrew holes in both the lock strap and bearing assembly and thread with
finger or wrench into the tapped holes in the yoke.
4. Moving the cross laterally to the opposite side and through the cross hole beyond machined surface of
yoke lug, place bearing assembly over cross trunnion and slide cross hole seating plate to the face of lug.
With lock strap and capscrews, complete assembly and torque capscrews.
5. Repeat process of installation of universal joint kit at opposite end of driveshaft.
6. Rebalance total unit before reinstallation in trencher.
Installation in Trencher
1. Qualify the transmission and axle yokes with the alignment bar. Then rotate each yoke so cross holes are in
horizontal position.
2. Remove bearing assemblies from cross trunnions, rotating in a forward and reverse manner while applying
force to remove.
3. Tilt cross trunnions of driveshaft, both ends with trunnions pointing toward each other from end to end, one
side.
4. Holding driveshaft firmly, project trunnions in outward position with the lugs of the axle and transmission yoke
and through the cross hole on one side, each end. Tilt the cross trunnion until the opposite trunnion can be
inserted through the cross hole. Then tilt cross trunnion opposite end and insert through cross hole.
5. Driveshaft is now being supported each end by trunnion surfaces in cross holes, both ends.
6. Lubricate the OD of bearing assemblies. Move shaft one end to cause trunnion to project through the cross
hole beyond the outer machined face of the yoke lug. Place a bearing assembly over the trunnion diameter and
align to cross holes. Holding trunnion alignment to cross holes, press bearing assembly, strike bearing plate on
outside edges.
7. Slide shaft to project opposite trunnion, align and placing hands on opposite bearings, pressing both inward
flash to yoke faces. Insert grade 8 capscrews through holes in lock plates and bearing assemblies threading
into capscrew threads in end yokes. Tighten with standard wrench until plates are flush against yoke faces.
Back off slightly and torque both ends to specification.
8. Bend tabs to flat of capscrew heads to lock in place.
9. Lubricate u-joints, purging all four bearing seals in each cross and bearing kit. Also lubricate slip assembly.
9 Service Section 5
ENGINE RADIATORS AND OIL COOLERS
The following paragraphs deal with the care and service of the heater exchangers on your trencher. The proper
operation of these heat exchangers is very important to achieve long life and smooth, trouble free operation for the
engine and hydraulic systems on your trencher. These heat exchangers assist the trencher power train and drive
components by keeping their cooling and lubrication fluids cool. Properly servicing the heat exchangers can be a
big help in keeping them from loosing their cooling abilities.
WASHING THE HEAT EXCHANGERS (EXTERNAL)
Whether you are cleaning the engine radiator or the oil cooler, the procedure is the same. All of the heat
exchangers should be washed on a regular basis (every 50 or so meter hours) to remove dirt and dust film from
the cooling fins. Also, anytime the trencher is moved to a new location by truck, the heat exchangers should be
washed to remove road dust film. The following procedure should be followed when washing the heat exchangers.
NOTE: A high-pressure washer (or pressurized water source), eye protection, soap (for the washer), and a suitable
location are needed to wash the heat exchangers.
1. Stop the trencher’s engine and allow the trencher to cool at least 30 min.
WARNING: Spraying water on hot trencher parts can produce dangerous steam or cause damage to
expensive trencher components.
2. Remove the screens covering the heat exchangers, or swing out hinged units to allow better cleaning of the
cooling fins.
3. Begin spraying one heat exchanger, making sure that soapy water is coming out of the spray nozzle. Keep the
nozzle at a distance of 12 to 18 inches from the face of the exchanger and spray directly into the heat
exchanger (so that the water goes directly through to the other side). Move the sprayer back and forth across
the face of the exchanger to cover the whole surface. This will assure maximum cleaning without damaging
the cooling fins.
4. If the heat exchanger is severely plugged with dirt or bugs, move the spray nozzle to about 6 inches away
from the film in the area that is plugged. Spend more time washing the plugged areas.
5. When possible, spray the heat exchanger from both sided to get it as clean as possible.
6. After washing the heat exchanger enough so that the water coming out the opposite side is clean, spray water
in the same manner as described above to remove the soap from the heat exchangers. Also, spray the dirt
that came out of the exchanger off of the surrounding trencher components and surfaces of the trencher.
7. Replace screens or hinged units after also spraying the screens clean.
8. Move to the next heat exchanger and repeat steps 3-7.
FLUSHING THE HEAT EXCHANGERS (INTERNAL)
See manufacturer’s literature about the procedure for internal flushing of heat exchangers. This should only need
to be done if the heat exchanger is severely plugged inside the cooling tubes. The best way to avoid having to
flush heat exchangers is to keep fresh, clean engine coolant or hydraulic fluid in the system. The fewer
contaminants that are in the fluid, the less the build-up on the heat exchanger cooling tubes will be.
Air Cleaner Service Tips
Attempt to determine the exact nature of a problem and its cause. If the trouble involves the air cleaner, it will fall
into one of two types:
A) Those which result in short element life.
B) Those which will allow airborne contaminants to enter the engine.
If there is a problem with the air cleaner, follow the steps listed below:
Short Element Life
1. Check to make sure the inlet is located away from heavy dust concentrations.
2. Check the inlet location; Be certain that the exhaust gases are directed above and away from the air
cleaner inlet. Soot from the exhaust is the prime enemy of paper filters.
3. Check the air supply to the air cleaner inlet; It must be of adequate size and unrestricted.
4. Check the air cleaner to make certain it is the right size for the engine.
5. Check to make certain the air cleaner element was new or properly cleaned when installed.
6. Check the clean air ducting after the air cleaner to be certain it is of adequate size and unrestricted.
7. Check the service indicator for damage, working lock up function, and correct calibration per engine
manufacturer’s recommendation.
8. Low pre-cleaner efficiency will cause short element life. Low efficiency can be caused by:
a. Leaking dust cup to air cleaner body joint; Cup must seal 360 degrees around the air cleaner body
b. A damaged or missing dust cup.
c. Plugging or building up of the vanes of the pre-cleaner.
d. Damage to the pre-cleaning section of the air cleaner.
1) Airborne Contaminants
1. Check to make certain the element has not been damaged in handling. Examine the element for dents or
holes.
2. Check to make certain all gaskets are sealing. Examine for dust trails which might indicate an air leak.
Check to be certain the wing nut is tight.
3. Examine the clean air transfer tubing for cracks, loose clamps, or loose flange joints.
4. Check the ether starting system fittings to be certain no contaminants are entering the system through
these connections.
Proper air cleaner servicing will result in maximum engine protection against the ravages of dust. Proper servicing
can also save you time and money by increasing filter life and dust cleaning efficiency. Two of the most common
servicing problems are:
OVER-SERVICING New filter elements increase in dust cleaning efficiency as dust builds up on the
media. DON’T BE FOOLED by filter appearance, it should look dirty. By using proper filter restriction tools,
you may get the maximum in life expectancy and the maximum in efficiency.
IMPROPER SERVICING Your engine is highly vulnerable to abrasive dust contaminants during the
servicing process. The most common cause of engine damage is careless and improper servicing
procedures. By following these steps, you should avoid unnecessary dust contamination to the engine:
Important Do’s
1. Remove the old element as carefully as possible. Baby that dirty element until you get it out of the
air cleaner housing. Accidentally bumping it while still in the housing means dropped dirt and dust that may
contaminate the clean side of your filter housing. This could put contaminants in the clean air system
before the element has a chance to do its job.
2. Always clean the inside of the housing carefully. Dirt left in the housing spells death for your engine.
Use a clean, damp cloth to wipe every surface clean. Check it visually to make certain it’s clean before
installing new element.
3. Always clean the gasket sealing surfaces. An improper gasket seal is one of the most common causes
of engine contamination. Make certain that all hardened dirt ridges are completely removed, both at the
bottom and top of the air cleaner.
4. Check for uneven dirt patterns on your old element. Your old element is a valuable clue to dust
leakage or gasket sealing problems. A pattern on the element clean side is a sign that the old element was
nor firmly sealed or that a dust leak does exist. Make certain the cause of the leak is identified and rectified
before replacing the filter element.
5. Press your fresh gasket to see if it springs back. Make certain that your new element is made with a
highly compressible gasket that springs right back when your finger pressure is released. A quality gasket
is one of the most important parts of the element.
6. Make sure the element is seating evenly. If you do not feel the gasket seating evenly for a perfect
seal, you do not have protection. Recheck to see if the sealing surfaces in the housing are clean, or if the
element is the correct model number. It may be too long or too short for the housing.
7. Check the connections and ducts for a tight fit. Check that all clamps and flange joints are tight, as
well as clear mounting bolts. Seal any leaks immediately – they mean dirt is directly entering the engine.
All duct joints, from the air cleaner to the engine must be air tight.
Important Don’ts
1. Don’t remove filter element for inspection. Such a check will always do more harm to the engine
than the good that your inspection can do. Ridges of dirt on the gasket sealing surface can drop on the
clean filter side when the gasket is released. Stick with the maintenance schedule. If you are on a
restriction maintenance schedule, follow the reading, or get a new indicator if you do not trust it.
2. Never rap an element to clean it – only destroy it. Rapping hard enough to knock off dust damages
the element and destroys your engine protection. Deeply embedded dirt is never released by tapping. It is
always safer to keep operating until you can change to a fresh filter.
3. Never judge your element’s life by looking at it. A dirty looking filter may still have plenty of life left,
while carbon contamination is not visible to the eye. And you can’t see the dirt that is embedded deep
within the paper media. Your best bet for lowest filter maintenance costs and best engine performance is
to follow a restriction gauge.
4. Never leave an air cleaner open longer than necessary. Your open air cleaner is a direct entry to
your engine. If the air cleaner element is not going to be changed or reassembled immediately, cover the
opening. The only way to be sure nothing got in, is to be sure nothing gets in.
5. Don’t overlook a worn or damaged gasket in the housing. If your cleaner has a cover gasket,
replace it with a new one. Always check to be sure no piece of the old gasket remains in the housing and
that the gasket is not worn. If your filter model calls for a new gasket with each use, never re-use the old
one.
6. Don’t use a dented or bunched filter element. Never install a dented or bunched filter element
because it cannot properly protect the engine against contamination. A dent can make a firm seal
impossible or can indicate damaged media. An element with bunched pleats saps engine power and fuel
dollars right from the start.
7. Never use a warped cover on a new housing. Replace with a new cover as soon as possible. A
warped or damaged cover cannot make a proper seal. Also check to make certain there is no damage to
the air cleaner housing that could cause a leak.
8. Never substitute an incorrect element number. Elements may look almost identical but can differ by
a fraction of an inch in length – a difference that makes a firm seal impossible. You are always better off
using a dirty element until you can get a correct replacement.
Vacuator Valves
Application
The Vacuator Valve® is standard on the majority of air cleaners and has significantly aided in the pre-cleaning
stage during the air cleaning process. The dust cup is normally under a slight vacuum when the engine is running,
pulsing of the vacuum opens and closes the valve, which automatically expels dust and water. The valve will also
unload when the engine is stopped.
Replace Damaged Vacuator Valves®
If a Vacuator Valve becomes cracked, torn, remains open or is missing, dust particles that normally expel through
this valve deposit themselves onto the filter and will shorten the air filter service life.
(865) 408-2100 1-800-894-4618
Belt / Filter Replacement List
Part Number Description Qty.
Hydraulics 30-1606-1217 and 30-1606-1216

30-1406-1038 Strainer, Suction ................................................................................................. 4
21000329 Strainer, Suction ................................................................................................. 1
30-1406-1046 Filter, Suction ..................................................................................................... 3
30-1406-1011 Element, Filter – Suction...................................................................................... 3
30-1406-1116 Filter, Return ...................................................................................................... 2
30-7320-104 Element, Filter – Return ...................................................................................... 2
70-PF151 Element, Filter – Transmission – Remote Mounted................................................. 2
30-460-6019 Filter, Return ...................................................................................................... 1
21000079 Filter, Oil, Differential .......................................................................................... 1
20000131 Filter, Spin-On .................................................................................................... 1
Engine 22000175
20000934 Filter, Fuel – Primary ........................................................................................... 2
20000935 Filter, Oil ............................................................................................................ 2
20000924 Separator, Water ................................................................................................ 1
20000933 Belt, Compressor ................................................................................................ 1
21001439 V-Belt ................................................................................................................ 1
Transmission 30-1606-1195
30-1805-1119 Element, Filter .................................................................................................. 2
Air Cleaner 30-1760-5009

70-P181049 Element, Primary ................................................................................................ 1
70-P116446 Element, Safety .................................................................................................. 1
Air Conditioner 30-960-5183

30-1605-1782 Element, Filter – Pressurizer ................................................................................ 1
30-960-5104 Element, Filter – Interior Unit............................................................................... 1
(865) 408-2100 1-800-894-4618
Fluid Replacement List

Lubrication Type Frequency Action Capacity
Inside Chaincase – Digging Drive

HD80W-90 50 Hours Check
500 Hours Change 4.2 Gal(15.9L)
Outside Chaincase – Digging Drive

HD80W-90 50 Hours Check
Differential Housing – Digging Drive

HD80W-90 Daily Check
500 Hours Change 19.0 Gal (72.0L)
Engine
Delvac 1300 15W-40 Daily Check
Transmission
Delvac 1300 15W-40 Daily Check
Crawler Gearbox
HD80W-90 Daily Check
Hydraulic Tank
AW-46 Daily Check
500 Hours Change 330.0 Gal (1,250.0L)
Radiator
Coolant; 50/50 Mix Daily Check
As Req’d. Change 35.0 Gal (132.5L)
Fuel
Diesel Daily Check 506.0 Gal (1,915L)
HYDRAULIC RESERVOIR
HEADSHAFT BEARINGS
CHAINCASE &
PIVOT BUSHINGS
CYLINDER PINS
CYLINDER PINS
TAILWHEEL BEARINGS
CAB ROLLERS
COUNTERWEIGHT
BEARINGS
ENGINE DRIVELINES
TRANSMISSION CYLINDER PINS

CONVEYOR GEARBOX
TRACK GEARBOX
CONVEYOR BEARINGS
DIFFERENTIAL
DRIVELINES
(865) 408-2100 1-800-894-4618
Lubrication Chart
Model 1660HD
This chart is a GUIDELINE only. The operator and maintenance personnel should always be alert for oil leaks,
abnormal noises, or extreme heat being generated by the trencher components. The trencher should be shut down
until such problems can be found and rectified.
UNIT INTERVAL LUBRICANT
Hydraulic Reservoir Oil Check Every 10 Hours AW-46

Change Every 500 Hours AW-46
Engine Oil Check Every 10 Hours Delvac 1300 15W-40
Change Every 250 Hours Delvac 1300 15W-40
Transmission Oil Check Every 10 Hours Delvac 1300 15W-40

Change Every 500 Hours Delvac 1300 15W-40
Differential Oil Check Every 10 Hours HD80W-90
Change Every 500 Hours HD80W-90
Crawler Gearbox Check Every 10 Hours HD80W-90

Inside Drive Chaincase Check Every 10 Hours HD80W-90
Outside Drive Chaincase Check Every 10 Hours HD80W-90

Radiator Coolant Check Every 10 Hours Coolant
Change As Required Coolant
Headshaft Bearings & Seals Every 4 Hours Mobilgrease® HP

Boom Hood Pivot Bushings Every 4 Hours Mobilgrease® CM-P
Driveline Every 10 Hours Mobilgrease® HP
Tailwheel Bearings Every 10 Hours Mobilgrease® HP
Counterweight Bearings Every 50 Hours Mobilgrease® HP

Conveyor Bearings Every 50 Hours Mobilgrease® HP
Cylinder Pins Every 10 Hours Mobilgrease® CM-P
Crumbshoe Pins Every 10 Hours Mobilgrease® CM-P
Conveyor Shift Gearbox Every 250 Hours* Mobilgrease® HP

Seat Adjuster Every 10 Hours WD-40 or equivalent
* Review proper service procedures before lubricating
What is a Power Take Off?
PTO's come in various types and sizes that are necessary because of the many different functions that PTO's
perform. Also, there are no standard types of heavy-duty transmissions. Because vehicle manufacturers do not
always know the ultimate use of their products, their transmissions are specified only for certain kinds of use. This
use is likely to change several times during the life span of the trencher; therefore different types of PTO's are
needed to meet changing power and/or speed requirements. The two types of PTO's that are used primarily here
at Trencor are the side mount and top mount PTO.
The Side Mount PTO is attached to the side of the transmission. This is the most common PTO in use and may be
available for mounting to a side of the transmission with either an S.A.E. standard six or eight bolt opening.
The Top Mount PTO is designed to operate from, and is attached to the top of the transmission. They are used in
heavy-duty applications. Each unit is designed to function with a specific auxiliary.
PTO Operation
The typical PTO is designed to pick up engine power, through rotation, and transfer it to another piece of
equipment. This is done either by mounting the equipment directly to the PTO or by connecting the equipment
with a small driveshaft. The PTO input gear meshes with one of the gears in the trencher's transmission. The
rotation developed by the engine drives the transmission, which turns the PTO gear, and rotates the PTO output
shaft.
The most important part of a PTO is the gear, or gear set. Rotation is picked up by gears meshing or mating with
other gears, and in order for the PTO to work, the gears must mesh properly with the transmission's PTO drive
gear. It is very important, therefore, to know the design and specifications of the gear teeth in the transmission.
In PTO's, two types of gears are used. There are spur gears and there are helical gears. On a spur gear, the teeth
are cut straight across the gear parallel to the rotation axis, helical gears have their teeth cut on an angle
diagonally across the gear. This gives the gear teeth a slanted or twisted appearance.
Helical gears may have their teeth with a right hand or a left hand slant. If you were to put the palm of your hand
directly on the helical gear teeth, you could tell what type of gear you had. Right handed helical gear teeth will
slant up towards your right thumb, while left handed helical gear teeth will slant in a line with your left thumb.
Obviously, a spur gear will not mesh properly with a helical gear. It will mesh only with another spur gears and
only with those that have the same tooth construction. Helical gears not only must mesh with each other, but one
must be right handed and one must be left-handed. If they are not matched, they will clash. Helical gears also
must have the same tooth construction in terms pitch, pressure angle, and helix angle. Helix angle is the degree of
the angle cut across the gear.
Installation and Conversion of PTO's

There are no secrets or special tricks to successfully installing a PTO. All the necessary information can be found in
the Owner's Manual accompanying each unit. Start at the standard PTO opening, Correct the backlash by the use
of gaskets, filler blocks and adapter assemblies, torque the bolts, and connect the proper shifter parts, if required.
It's just that simple. The value of the Owner's Manual is that it gives the installer the necessary detail to
understand how a PTO should be properly installed.
For example, the standard location of the PTO drive gear is a half-inch to the front, or rear, of the PTO openings
vertical centerline. These openings are standard S.A.E. 6-bolt or 8-bolt openings. If it is necessary to install a 6-bolt
PTO in an 8-bolt opening, this may be accomplished by the use of an adapter plate in which case the PTO is
mounted to the adapter plate. Eight bolt PTO's, however, should never be mounted by any means to a 6-bolt
opening. Eight bolt openings are available on many transmissions and permit the use of larger mating gears, thus
providing greater torque handling possibilities. Eight bolt mountings are usually desirable and should be used for
heavy duty and extra heavy-duty applications. Side mounted PTO’s are mounted directly to the transmission,
separated only by a gasket, or gaskets. However, in some cases, to obtain a correct meshing of gears, other
mounting parts such as filler blocks or adapter gear assemblies may be necessary. Gaskets are available in either
.010" or .020" thicknesses. A gasket must be used between all mounting surfaces to insure against loss of
lubricating fluids. If filler blocks are used, a gasket must be inserted between each one. Sometimes, to provide for
correct backlash, two or more gaskets may be required. Backlash is the clearance needed between the meshing of
the gear teeth to permit a quiet, smooth operation. An assembly that is too tight will result in a "whining" noise. If
it is too loose, the assembly will make a "clattering" sound. Both conditions are undesirable because they will result
in a loss of power, overheating, or excessive gear deterioration. A correct meshing of gears is obtained when like
gears operate with a backlash of from .006" to .012" clearance. Backlash should be checked with a dial indicator at
the time of installation.
Filler blocks are available in various thicknesses and should be used when the distance between the mating gears
requires their use. This is preferable to the use of a large number of gaskets and will prevent possible leakage.
Therefore, do not stack more than four gaskets together.
Installing a Sidemount PTO (For 6 or 8 Bolt Mount Applications)
1. Drain the oil from the transmission and remove the PTO aperture cover plate.
2. Discard the cover plate and cover plate gasket. Then clean the aperture pad using a putty knife or wire brush.
NOTE: Stuff a rag in the opening to prevent dirt or other contaminants from entering the transmission while
you are cleaning the pad. Using your hand, rock the PTO driver gear in the transmission, and the driven gear in
the PTO assembly. Rocking the gears provides you with one important piece of information:
It shows you the amount of backlash that has been designed into each. This is helpful in
establishing the proper backlash when installing the PTO.
3. Install the proper studs in the PTO aperture using a stud driver. Where the holes are tapped through the
transmission case, use a sealant to prevent leaks. NOTE: Avoid contact of the sealant with automatic
transmission fluid in automatics. Always check to be sure that the studs do not interfere with the transmission
gears. Tighten the studs securely and torque to 45-50 ft-lbs for an eight bolt, and 30-35 ft-lbs. for a six bolt
unit.
4. Place the correct number of gaskets over the studs. Do not use sealant right away between gaskets because
you may want to add or subtract gaskets to obtain the proper backlash. When mounting any PTO, use gaskets
between all mounting surfaces, but do not stack more than four gaskets together. For a transmission with a
standard mounting depth, usually only one .020” gasket will be required. At least one gasket must always be
used on either side of the filler blocks, adapter assemblies, or adapter plates. More gaskets may be required in
order to establish the proper backlash.
5. Secure the PTO to the transmission. Copper gaskets are used as a guard against leaks under a capscrew head.
NOTE: If the holes in the aperture are not drilled through, discard the copper gaskets and replace them with
lock washers. Fasten the PTO to the transmission, torque 6-bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs. and 8-bolt to 45-50 ft-lbs.
Check for proper backlash.
After assembly, refill transmission with oil and briefly operate the PTO and check for noises resulting from incorrect
mounting as well as the proper positioning of the sliding gear. If a whining sound is heard, gaskets should be
added to provide more gear clearance. I a clattering sound is heard, it is necessary to remove one or more gaskets
to provide a tighter fit. This pre-testing is important as many PTO failures are due to faulty installation. If there is
any doubt about the installation, always refer back to the Owner's Manual. always remember that the use of a PTO
requires the addition of from one to two quarts of oil to the transmission, depending upon the size of the PTO. You
should anticipate a slight increase in PTO noise level as the oil thins out at operating temperature. After the PTO
has been in operation for a period of time, check the torque of the mounting bolts and the general operation of the
unit. look for leaks or other problems that may have arisen. Correct them before serious damage occurs to either,
or both, the transmission and the PTO.
PTO Installation TIPS
1. Drain oil and remove PTO cover from the transmission pad. Rock gears by hand in transmission and PTO and
become familiar with the amount of backlash already designed into each unit. This will be helpful is
establishing backlash later.
2. Tighten studs securely in transmission pad. Use Permatex or equivalent to prevent leaks where holes are
tapped through. Avoid contact of Permatex with automatic transmission fluid in automatics. Check the be sure
studs do not interferes with transmission gears..
3. Mount PTO using gaskets between all mounting surfaces. Add or remove gaskets and establish backlash at
.006 - .012” (.15mm - .30mm). Do not stack more than four gaskets together. Usually 1 thick gasket 0.020”
(0.50mm0 will be required. Tighten top and bottom nuts to torque specified. Whenever possible, shifter cover
should be removed to check backlash. On sliding gear input models, make certain gear slides smoothly into
engagement with the transmission drive gear.
4. Run the PTO momentarily (Caution – As transmission and PTO have no lubrication at this point, running should
be for as short of time as possible) and check for noise. If PTO whines, PTO may be mounted too tight, too
little backlash. Add a gasket. A clatter indicates looseness (too much backlash). Remove gaskets. Add or
subtract gaskets until proper backlash has been established and the PTO operates quietly.
General Rule: A Chelsea 0.010”(.25mm) gasket will change backlash approximately .006” (.15mm), a 0.020”
(.50mm) gasket will change the backlash by approximately 0.12”(.30mm).
5. Securely fasten PTO to transmission. Torque nuts to 30-35 ft-lbs. for 6-bolts, 45-50 ft-lbs. for 8-bolts. Copper
gaskets are normally supplied as a guard against leaks under capscrew heads. If the holes in the PTO aperture
are not drilled through, a more secure mount can be made by discarding the copper gaskets and replace with a
lock washer. Draw up nuts uniformly.
6. Adjust shifter linkage. Always allow slight over shift on lever or knob to insure PTO is fully engaged.
7. Replace lubricant to normal level as prescribed by the manufacturer. If the PTO is mounted below oil level,
additional lubricant will be required. Check for leaks.
8. If PTO is mounted on automatic transmissions where oil levels change or are non-existent, it requires a
pressure lubed PTO.
ADAPTERS
Pre-select backlash by bench mounting the PTO to the adapter. Retain gasket pack. Mount the adapter separately
to the transmission to establish the proper gasket pack for desired backlash between the adapter and the
transmission . Proceed with final mount of unit using retained gaskets.
INSPECTION:
After the PTO has been installed and lubricant has been replaced, run the PTO for 5-10 minutes. Check for leaks,
noises, and proper positioning of sliding gear as unit is shifted both in and out of mesh, if applicable. A correctly
installed PTO should operate reasonably quiet.
Should a quiet PTO become noisy after the universal joint connection has been made, inspect the driveline
components for out of phase conditions, excess or unequal joint angles or possibly worn parts in driven accessory.
PTO Troubleshooting
If a PTO failed prematurely, there are two likely causes: improper installation and/or operator misuse. These are
tough problems because they involve people as well as product. An improperly installed PTO can normally be
identified immediately by the sound it makes. It will "whine" if installed too tightly, or "clatter" if it is installed too
loosely. Sometimes, the vehicle itself may contribute enough noise to mask the sound of the PTO and one may not
notice the problem.
If a problem is allowed to continue, then damage to the PTO will result. A unit that has been mounted too loosely
could result in broken gear teeth. A unit that has been mounted too tightly could result in premature wear of the
gear teeth. Also when a PTO is installed without enough filler blocks, spacers, or gaskets between it and the
transmission, s deep wear pattern will occur on the gear teeth. these patterns will lead to fatigue and early tooth
failure. To help prevent this from occurring, always test the PTO for noise just after it is installed.
Whatever the reason for a PTO failure, there will be confusion over who, or what, is at fault. More than likely the
product will be blamed. Although the PTO cannot defend itself, its failed parts will tell a story.
The first parts to inspect should be the gears. Check the surface of the gear teeth for signs of pitting. Pitting is a
normal wear pattern in most cases. However, contaminants in the oil or an installation that is too tight will cause
severe pitting. Once pitting of the gear surfaces has begun, there is nothing that can prevent it. Severe pitting will
eventually lead to gear tooth failure, therefore the damaged gear should be replaced when a PTO is repaired or
rebuilt.
Sometimes a gear will chip a tooth because of mishandling or improper shifting. Even though a PTO may continue
to run with a chipped tooth, the damaged gear should be replaced immediately. It will damage the other teeth that
it comes in contact with during operation, not to mention the possible damage that could result from the loose
chip. If the problem is allowed to continue, then failure to other parts in the PTO or transmission could result.
Another possible problem during trencher operation is the shock load. This occurs when the torque demands on a
PTO are suddenly greater than it was designed to take. Torque overloads, improper shifting, equipment failure, or
excessive loads could cause shock load over a short period of time. If this happens, the PTO is likely to fail
immediately. The operator may not even be aware of the reason for the PTO failure. Worn gears can easily be
affected by shock load. If the worn gears are not replaced, they can eventually lead to broken gear teeth. This is
the most severe form of PTO failure. Worn or damaged gears are likely to break because of their reduced load
carrying capacity. To prevent the possibility of broken gear teeth, always inspect the equipment, for possible freeze
up. Also, recheck operating conditions and PTO installation.
PTO shafts are also vulnerable to operating abuse. If the shaft break is irregular, this usually indicates a torsional
overload. Bending fatigue failure usually shows up as a smooth, flat break. To correct a PTO shaft problem, replace
the failed shaft and check the speed and operating angle of the universal joint. Also, make sure the PTO driveshaft
is properly phased. If a driveline is improperly installed, it will cause vibration, which may lead to PTO driveshaft or
driven equipment problems. When inspecting a PTO output shaft, always inspect the keyway.
Sometimes a PTO will fail because of a displaced keyway on the shaft caused by a loose fitting yoke or equipment
freeze up. Proper maintenance on equipment and replacing worn yoke and or PTO driven shaft will prevent this
problem.
One of the most serious problems a PTO can suffer is a cracked case. This condition can lead to oil loss and
eventual transmission failure. Improper installation, poorly torqued bolts, or an unsupported direct mount pump
can cause such a problem. Foreign objects meshing between the gear teeth, severe shock load, or even hitting an
obstacle in the road can also damage a PTO case. Prevention is the best cure for PTO case damage. Therefore,
always torque the PTO flange bolts in sequence and to proper torque specifications. Also, be sure to check the
weight of the direct mount pump and, if it over 40 pounds, make a support bracket for it.
Shifting problems are sometimes a complaint an operator will have about his PTO. A PTO that it hard to shift may
be caused by a tight bend in the shifter cable, poor leverage, a gear that is installed backwards, to too tight of an
installation. Inspecting the PTO installation and making the proper adjustments regarding cable length, gear
position, or shift lever can solve many of these problems. Remember, a lever-operated shift linkage should not be
connected to a wire shift cover. the mechanical advantage of the lever is often too great for the wire shift cover
and could severely damage it. Also, inversely, don't use a cable with a lever shift cover. the cable isn't capable of
transmitting the force necessary to shift a lever mechanism.
Most shifting complaints are caused by improper shifting procedure or incorrect linkage installation. Both of these
situations will cause premature wear on the shift pad or fork and the shift rod or rail. To prevent this premature
wear, avoid overshifting or undershifting the PTO. Overshifting causes the shifter fork to press against a PTO gear
during operation. This results in unnecessary friction and wear. Undershifting allows incomplete gear tooth contact
with the driver gear. This means only part of the tooth width is transmitting the torque and RPM during PTO
operation. This situation can lead to gear failure or it could cause the PTO to jump out of gear. These two
problems can be overcome by checking linkage adjustments and proper operator training.
Shifting problems can also be caused by a worn or elongated shifter poppet hole. This causes the PTO to jump out
of gear and the parts in the shifter assembly to break or become loose. If this happens, replace those parts that
are worn.
Seals and "o" rings may cause special problems in PTO operations. Improper installation or heat build-up can cause
"o" rings and seals to fail prematurely. Once seals or "o" rings fail, they should be replaced. The proper procedure
for installing these parts is to lubricate them first so they will easily slide on the shaft.
Remember, when troubleshooting any clutch-operated PTO, carefully inspect all components for wear or damage.
Burnt clutch plates, welded clutch pack, or a burnt driving hub are three easily identifiable conditions that lend
themselves to failure analysis. Generally, incorrect air/oil pressure, lack of lubrication, or excessive heat build up
will directly contribute to poor air clutch operation and eventual failure. A sure sign of potential trouble with a
clutch operated PTO is erratic operation. Check the air system for the proper pressure and inspect it for cleanliness.
A dirty or contaminated system will affect the entire PTO operation, so inspect it periodically and change the oil at
the interval specified in the Owner's Manual to be sure that it is always clean and free from abrasives.
Description Problem Solution
Noisy PTO Improper Number Of Gaskets Correct as instructed in Installation Guide

Gears Worn And Pitted Replace Worn Gears
Bearings Worn, Due To High Loads Reduce Load, Replace bearings and
change oil
Jumping Out Of Gear Shift Rail Poppet Spring Broken Replace Poppet Spring
Shift Rail Poppet Notch Worn Replace Shift Rail
Shift Fork Sprung, or Loose on Shift Rail Replace Fork or Tighten Fork Setscrew
Gear Teeth Worn Replace Worn Gears
Gears not Shifted Fully in Mesh Check Shift Linkage for Proper
Adjustments
Shift Linkage Too Short Adjust Shift Linkage to permit full shift
Power Shift PTO won’t engage Incorrect High Pressure Line Plumbing Correct plumbing as shown on installation
Kit
Incorrect electrical wiring Correct wiring as shown on wiring
diagram
Restriction in Pressure line Remove restriction
Oil Leakage Oil Seal Failure Replace Worn Seals

Broken Gaskets Replace Gaskets
Crack or Hole In Housing Replace housing
General Before disassembling PTO’s note the arrangement of the gears, output shaft, shift
rod, and fork. These parts are made to be assembled to either the front or rear of
the case.
Service Manual
Table of Contents
Model T1660M
Section Six
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM - GENERAL............................................................................................................. 1
FILTER REPLACEMENT ............................................................................................................................ 2
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM – TROUBLESHOOTING, GENERAL ......................................................................... 4
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM – TROUBLESHOOTING, PRESSURE ....................................................................... 6
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM – TROUBLESHOOTING, NOISE.............................................................................. 7
HYDRAULIC PRESSURES (TYPICAL) ....................................................................................................... 9
OIL COOLER MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................. 10
Service Section 6 0
Hydraulic System - General
Description
The purpose of a hydraulic system is to transfer power from a motor or engine to some point where it can be used
to operate equipment. A mechanical system transfers power through an arrangement of belts, gears, and chains.
A hydraulic system transfers power through a system of pumps, piping, motors, and cylinders.
Hydraulic fluid is the vehicle used to transfer power. This fluid is actually a light oil that has certain additives to
improve its performance under high heat and pressure conditions. The fluid is forced through the piping by the
hydraulic pump. It passes through the piping and returns to the tank, then again enters the system through the
pump. Fluid is constantly circulating as long as the pump is running.
Control valves installed in the piping allow the operator to divert the circulating fluid through the motor or cylinder
he wishes to operate. He can also allow the fluid to return to the tank without passing through a motor or
cylinder.
Typical Operating System

1. Gravity and atmospheric pressure force tank fluid into the suction lines to replace what the pump takes out.
“Cavitation” results if a restriction in a suction line prevents the pump from receiving as much fluid as it is
sending out. Suction line pressure is low (LP), so line and fittings can be of light material.
2. A strainer has mesh small enough to protect the pump from large dirt particles, but not so small that it will clog
easily and cause the pump to cavitate.
3. A leak in the suction line or strainer usually causes “aeration” - air is drawn into the line and the fluid. Like
“cavitation”, this can quickly damage the pump.
4. The engine turns the pump at a constant speed so that a constant fluid flow (measured in gallons per minute)
is circulating throughout the piping. Flow is constant as long as the engine is not running slowed due to
engine load.
5. High pressure (HP) lines carry fluid to a motor or cylinder and are made of heavier material. The pressure in
HP lines depends on how hard the system is working:
MINIMUM PRESSURE: is “circulating pressure”. This is the pressure required to force the fluid through the
piping and back to the tank, but not through a motor or cylinder. Circulating pressure is low because the fluid flow
is resisted only by the friction and turbulence in the piping.
MAXIMUM PRESSURE: is “working pressure”. This varies constantly. The pump must force the fluid through a
hydraulic motor or cylinder, so the pressure rises until it overcomes whatever load is on the motor or cylinder.
6. Adjustable relief valves limit the working pressure. When the pressure in HP lines reaches the adjusted setting,
the relief valve begins venting fluid to the tank so the pressure cannot increase. The motor “stalls” because
“weight” of the load equals the pressure required to lift the load.
7. A control valve can divert some or all of the fluid to or from the motor. The more fluid that is sent through the
motor, the faster it turns. In the neutral position on the valve, all fluid passes through the control valve to the
tank.
1 Service Section 6
8. The circuit lines from the control valve to the motor are HP. Either line can carry fluid to the motor or return
the fluid from the motor. Some control valves can send the fluid through the circuit in either direction for
forward or reverse operation.
9. Return lines from the control valve to the tank offer only small resistance to the flow. This resistance is caused
by friction and turbulence. There are no other components in the line to cause resistance or pressure, so these
lines are LP and can be made of lighter material.
10. A filter has small mesh to remove the smaller dirt particles.
11. In a tank, the air rises out of the fluid, heat dissipates, and some of the contaminants settle to the bottom the
tank.
Hydraulic System Maintenance - General

A clean and properly set up hydraulic system will require almost no maintenance. The equipment served by the
system will require periodic lubrication according to the separate instructions for each piece of equipment.
The following general rules apply to hydraulic system maintenance:
1. Always keep the tank at full level.

2. Clean filters and strainers or replace elements at the first sign of clogging. Replace elements after break in
of the trencher, about 50 hours, then when clogged and at regular intervals.
3. Keep the system clean. Dirt and extreme heat is the most common cause of hydraulic system failure.
4. Cap open lines and ports immediately when piping is disconnected for any reason.
5. Keep the heat exchanger core and cooling fins clean at all times for maximum cooling efficiency. Inspect
daily for any external blockage and clean as required.
Filter Replacement
The first topic of discussion will be the replacement and servicing of the hydraulic oil filter elements. The
replaceable filter elements in this list include the return filters and the suction filters.
The return filter(s) should have the element(s) changed every 500 to 1,000 operating hours, or when the dirt alarm
indicates that a change is needed. With the oil cold and before starting the engine, check the location of the dirt
alarm needle on the filter head. Start the engine and run at operating R.P.M., then check the filter needle again. If
the needle has moved noticeably, the filter element may need to be changed.
The suction filters should be changed every 1,000 hours of operation. In order to change the filters, you must first
close the three or more gate valves at the bottom of the hydraulic tank. To prevent accidental engine start up with
the valves closed, attach a tag to the engine ignition switch to read “Do not start engine until gate valves are
open”. Remove the filters and replace with the same type of element. We recommend that the trencher be
washed off before this service is performed in order to prevent unnecessary contaminants from entering the
system.
After the filters have been replaced, open the gate valves and wait approximately 10 minutes for the filters to fill
with oil before starting the engine. After a charge pressure of 160-300 PSI is reached on the charge pump
pressure gauges, the engine should idle at approximately 1,000 R.P.M. with all drives disengaged for approximately
15 minutes to bleed all the air from the system.
The trencher is equipped with one common reservoir which has the capacity of approximately 65 gallons. The
pumps, motors, cylinders, and piping increase the total hydraulic system capacity to about 125 gallons. The
reservoir is filled with Delvac 1300 15W-40, which has an operating temperature of -15 to +200 degrees
Fahrenheit. Anytime fluid is added to the reservoir, the fluid must be pumped through a 10 micron filter to restrict
oil contamination. The oil is also filtered when leaving the tank by three or more suction strainers, three or more
suction filters, and one or more return filters.
Service Section 6 2
The reservoir should be checked daily for proper oil level. If the oil level is low add the appropriate amount of
fresh oil, add the same type of oil that is already in the reservoir, do not mix. Care should be taken when removing
filters so that dirt and other contaminants do not enter the system.
The initial oil change should be done at around 500 hours. Then the interval of oil changes can vary from 500
hours up to 2,000 hours, depending on the oil condition. The condition of the hydraulic oil is dependent upon the
contaminants (water, dirt, etc.) or the factor of heat, which breaks down the oil. We recommend that a well-mixed
sampling of the oil be taken and sent to your local oil distributor to evaluate the oil’s condition.
When an oil change does become necessary, TRENCOR recommends the following procedures be followed:
1. The oil change should take place at the equipment yard.

2. The trencher should be washed to remove as much as possible the sources of contamination.
3. Drain the oil from the hydraulic tank while warm and dispose of the waste oil properly. If a motor, pump,
cylinder, or other hydraulic component broke down and metal or other contaminants entered the system,
the whole system needs to be drained and flushed prior to refilling with fresh oil.
4. Remove the hydraulic tank lid from the oil reservoir and remove the suction strainers from the inside of the
reservoir. Wash and inspect the strainers. Replace the strainers, if needed.
5. Clean the bottom of the reservoir with clean, dry rags to remove any excess water and sediment that
may have accumulated.
6. Replace the tank lid with the use or a silicone sealer to seal out external contaminants,
7. Replace the suction filter elements with clean, new elements.
8. Replace the return filter elements.
9. Refill the hydraulic tank with fresh AW-46 oil from clean containers.
10. Follow the procedures for start up after filter replacement.
11. Check the tank for hydraulic oil leaks around the filters and fittings.
3 Service Section 6
Hydraulic System – Troubleshooting, General
Problems that might occur in the system itself are listed below. The problem, cause, and solution are listed in no
particular order:
No hydraulic fluid pressure at main pressure gauge, control valve in neutral.

CAUSE: Suction shut-off valve closed
SOLUTION: Open shut-off valve.
CAUSE: Low fluid level in hydraulic tank.
SOLUTION: Fill to proper level.
CAUSE: Suction line is broken, badly leaking.
SOLUTION: Repair hydraulic line.
CAUSE: Pump Failure
SOLUTION: Remove. Send to nearest authorized repair facility.
NOTE: If the hydraulic pump has run for more than fifteen (15) minutes under any of these conditions,
have the unit checked for internal damage or wear.
Very low hydraulic fluid pressure at main gauge, control valve in neutral.
CAUSE: Broken, badly leaking, supply line or loose connection. Repair hydraulic line, tighten
connection.
SOLUTION: Repair hydraulic line, tighten connection.
CAUSE: Main relief valve pressure setting is too low.
SOLUTION: Adjust main relief valve.
CAUSE: Pump failure
SOLUTION: Remove, send to nearest authorized repair facility.
Low hydraulic fluid pressure at main pressure gauge when the control valve is directing the fluid to
the motor and the motor is under load.
CAUSE: Broken, leaking control valve to motor hydraulic line.
SOLUTION: Repair hydraulic line.
CAUSE: Relief valve set to low.
SOLUTION: Adjust: 1. Main relief valve
2. Control valve relief
3. Motor relief
4. Other relief
CAUSE: Pump malfunction
CAUSE: Motor malfunction
Service Section 6 4
Motor lacks power.
CAUSE: Fluid pressure is low. See symptom #3 above.
SOLTUION: See symptom #3 above.
Motor lacks speed.
CAUSE: Fluid pressure is low.
SOLUTION: See symptom #3 above.
Low fluid flow.
CAUSE: Pump running to slow.
SOLUTION: Check that the engine is turning at the proper R.P.M.
CAUSE: Relief valve set to low.
SOLUTION: Adjust: 1. Main relief valve
2. Control valve relief
3. Motor relief
4. Other relief
CAUSE: Pump malfunction
CAUSE: Motor malfunction
Control valve malfunction.

CAUSE: Warped valve body.
SOLUTION: Check for uneven base or line screwed in too tight, causing the body to warp.
CAUSE: Relief section stuck
SOLUTION: Adjust to full in, full out positions while valve is directing fluid to motor.
Relief valve malfunction.
CAUSE: Warped valve body.
SOLUTION: Check for uneven base or line screwed in too tight, causing the body to warp.
CAUSE: Stuck spool.
SOLUTION: Disassemble, clean, and repair.
CAUSE: Clogged pilot line or tube
SOLUTION: Clean
Motor with counterbalance valve will not hold load.
CAUSE: Counterbalance valve set to low.
SOLUTION: Adjust counterbalance valve.
CAUSE: Counterbalance valve malfunction.
SOLUTION: Disassemble, clean, and repair.
5 Service Section 6
Hydraulic System – Troubleshooting, Pressure
Pump is not producing rated flow or pressure:
1. Suction shut off is closed.
2. Fluid level is low.
3. Suction leak is causing aeration.
4. Suction restriction is causing cavitation.
5. Partial or total pump failure.
6. Driving motor not turning pump at rated speed.
Partial flow or pressure loss in HP lines or components:
1. Leak in HP lines.
2. Relief valve open early.
3. Control valve not sending all flow to the motor or cylinder.
4. Fluid has easier path to the tank through another part of the system.
Motor or cylinder not using entire flow output:
1. Internal motor leakage or slippage.
2. Excessive backpressure in motor outlet line.
Service Section 6 6
Hydraulic System – Troubleshooting, Noise
Various noises characterize the operation of a hydraulic system. Some are normal; others indicate trouble that
should be corrected.
1. Noise of opening relief valve
Relief valve noises require no correction but can be a valuable tool for the mechanic,
who can determine from the noise if the valve is open or not. When a relief valve
opens, there is a distinctive change in noise level that continues as long as the relief
valve is open. The more fluid being vented, the louder the noise will be.
Each type of relief valve produces a different noise. Some Vickers valves make a noise
like water running out of a wide-open faucet. Some Gresen valves give a high pitch
objectionable sound that may be heard throughout the machine. Others may have a
“roaring” sound. Become familiar with the characteristics of your trencher and be able
to recognize these sounds.
2. Aeration/Cavitation noise at the pump
Cavitation results when the pump is putting out more fluid than it is receiving
through the suction line. Aeration results when excessive air is mixed into the
hydraulic fluid.
The sounds of aeration and cavitation are very similar. Slight aeration or cavitation
sounds as if the pump is skipping or chips are passing through. In worse cases, the
pump may run with a jerky or uneven movement and sound as if gravel were mixed in
with the hydraulic fluid.
Cavitation is a dangerous condition that can quickly destroy the pump and other
components. Correct immediately! Refer to the Troubleshooting portion of this
section for causes and solutions to aeration and cavitation problems.
3. Pump Whines
This is normal running noise and requires no correction. If the noise is loud enough to
be objectionable, one or both of the following methods can reduce it:
a. Mount the pumps on a flexible pad.
b. Install a flexible coupling between the pump and the driving motor.
4. Gurgle in the hydraulic lines when the pump is started
This noise is caused by fluid filling the hydraulic lines and replacing any that may have
drained back to the hydraulic tank during an idle work period. It is a normal condition
that requires no correction.
7 Service Section 6
Service Section 6 8
(865) 408-2100 1-800-894-4618
Hydraulic Pressures (Typical)
The following pressures are available from the machine diagnostic ports or the gauges on the control
panel.
Brake Pressure Test Port (LP) 320 PSI
Control Pressure Test Port (HP) 2500 PSI

(Hoist, Cylinders, Conveyor)
Left Hand Track Charge Pressure Test Port (LP) 320 PSI
Right Hand Track Charge Pressure Test Port (LP) 320 PSI
Left Hand Traction Operating Pressure – Panel (HP) 4200PSI
Right Hand Traction Operating Pressure – Panel (HP) 4200 PSI
9 Service Section 6
Oil Cooler Maintenance
ENGINE RADIATORS AND OIL COOLERS
The following paragraphs deal with the care and service of the heater exchangers on your trencher. The proper
operation of these heat exchangers is very important to achieve long life and smooth, trouble free operation for the
engine and hydraulic systems on your trencher. These heat exchangers assist the trencher power train and drive
components by keeping their cooling and lubrication fluids cool. Properly servicing the heat exchangers can be a
big help in keeping them from loosing their cooling abilities.
WASHING THE HEAT EXCHANGERS (EXTERNAL)

Whether you are cleaning the engine radiator or the oil cooler, the procedure is the same. All of the heat
exchangers should be washed on a regular basis (every 50 or so meter hours) to remove dirt and dust film from
the cooling fins. Also, anytime the trencher is moved to a new location by truck, the heat exchangers should be
washed to remove road dust film. The following procedure should be followed when washing the heat exchangers.
NOTE: A high-pressure washer (or pressurized water source), eye protection, soap (for the washer), and a suitable
location are needed to wash the heat exchangers.
1. Stop the trencher’s engine and allow the trencher to cool at least 30 min.
Spraying water on hot trencher parts can produce dangerous steam or

cause damage to expensive trencher components.
2. Remove the screens covering the heat exchangers, or swing out hinged units to allow better cleaning of the
cooling fins.
3. Begin spraying one heat exchanger, making sure that soapy water is coming out of the spray nozzle. Keep the
nozzle at a distance of 12 to 18 inches from the face of the exchanger and spray directly into the heat
exchanger (so that the water goes directly through to the other side). Move the sprayer back and forth across
the face of the exchanger to cover the whole surface. This will assure maximum cleaning without damaging
the cooling fins.
4. If the heat exchanger is severely plugged with dirt or bugs, move the spray nozzle to about 6 inches away
from the film in the area that is plugged. Spend more time washing the plugged areas.
5. When possible, spray the heat exchanger from both sided to get it as clean as possible.
6. After washing the heat exchanger enough so that the water coming out the opposite side is clean, spray water
in the same manner as described above to remove the soap from the heat exchangers. Also, spray the dirt
that came out of the exchanger off of the surrounding trencher components and surfaces of the trencher.
7. Replace screens or hinged units after also spraying the screens clean.
8. Move to the next heat exchanger and repeat steps 3-7.
FLUSHING THE HEAT EXCHANGERS (INTERNAL)

See manufacturer’s literature about the procedure for internal flushing of heat exchangers. This should
only need to be done if the heat exchanger is severely plugged inside the cooling tubes. The best way to avoid
having to flush heat exchangers is to keep fresh, clean engine coolant or hydraulic fluid in the system. The fewer
contaminants that are in the fluid, the less the build-up on the heat exchanger cooling tubes will be.
Service Manual
Table of Contents
Model T1660M
Section Seven
UNDERCARRIAGE ASSEMBLY ................................................................................................................. 1
EXTEND UNDERCARRIAGE LIFE.............................................................................................................. 5
MOVING A DISABLED MACHINE ............................................................................................................. 9
CRAWLER GEARBOX SERVICE .............................................................................................................. 12
Service Section 7 0
UNDERCARRIAGE ASSEMBLY
LEFT HAND SHOWN

RIGHT HAND OPPOSITE
1 Service Section 7
Disassembly
1. Identify the track chain master pin. This can normally be done by searching the track chain pins for a small
indention on the end. This usually characterizes the master pin.
NOTE: It is preferable to have the track master pin on the topside of the undercarriage
before servicing the undercarriage components.
2. Detach the access cover (16) by loosening the six capscrews (20). Remove five of the capscrews (20) and lock
washers (18) and rotate the access cover (16) out of the way. Loosen the grease fill valve on the front idler
assembly (3) to relieve the tension on the track chain (6). This will allow the master pin on the track chain link
to be removed easier.
3. Detach the two grouser pads located above the track chain master link. Remove the four grouser bolts (7) and
square nuts (8). These grouser bolts and nuts have been intentionally stressed at installation and should be
discarded. When attaching the grouser pads to the track chain, use new hardware for installation.
4. Using a portable track press, remove the track chain master pin.
5. Unroll the track chain (6) from the crawler drive sprocket (14) and the track front idler assembly (3).
Using a small mobile crane, unroll the chain until it is laying flat on the traveling surface.
6. The front track idler assembly (3) can be detached by removing two metric capscrews and lock washers that
retain the assembly in the track frame.
NOTE: These two capscrews are metric, M24.
7. To remove the front idler assembly (3), you will require the use of a small mobile crane, and a front-end loader
or forklift. Use the loader/forklift to remove the idler assembly (3) from the track frame. If this component is to
be serviced, place on a suitable work surface that is capable of supporting this component. Use the mobile
crane to place the idler assembly (3) in this location.
8. On the opposite end of the track frame is the crawler drive gearbox (11). Before attempting to remove the
gearbox (11), disconnect all hydraulic hoses from the track drive motor.
NOTE: Always plug open hydraulic lines to prevent the hydraulic oil from draining out of
the hydraulic tank and to prevent the introduction of contaminants into the hydraulic
system.
9. The crawler drive sprocket (14) is attached to the track drive gearbox (11) using thirty metric capscrews (23)
and lock washers (24). Remove this hardware. Using a chain hoist or mobile crane, remove the crawler drive
sprocket (14) from the gearbox (11). Mark the sprocket (14) on the gearbox side to prevent misalignment
upon reattaching to the gearbox (11).
NOTE: These are metric capscrews, M30.
10. The track drive gearbox (11) is attached to the track frame using thirty metric capscrews (29) and lock
washers (24). Support the gearbox (11) using a small crane or chain hoist and remove the capscrews (29).
Remove the gearbox (11) from the track frame and move to a suitable service area.
NOTE: If the problem area involves the hydraulic motor directly, do not service in the
field. Take the motor to an authorized hydraulics repair facility for service. Note or mark
the position of rotation for the gearbox. It is important that the unit be reinstalled in the
same position.
11. In order to remove the track rollers (4) it will be necessary to place the trencher on blocks.
12. Once the trencher is raised on blocks, remove the three capscrews (21), lock washers (22), and hex nuts (23)
that attach the track rock guards (17) to the track frame. Remove the track rock guards (17).
13. Detach the track rollers (4) from the track frame by removing the four capscrews (26) and lock washers (27)
that retain them.
NOTE: It will be a good idea to support these rollers before removing the capscrews. A
hydraulic floor jack works reasonable well for this application.
Service Section 7 2
LEFT HAND SHOWN
RIGHT HAND OPPOSITE
3 Service Section 7
ASSEMBLY
1. To begin the undercarriage assembly, the tractor body / track frame must be on raised blocks to allow for the
installation of the track rollers (4) and track chain (6).
2. Attach the track rollers (4) to the track frame using four capscrews (26) and lock washers (27) per roller. The
proper torque for these capscrews is 708 lb-ft. This is a metric capscrew with a torque of 960 Nm. A hydraulic
floor jack works reasonable well for this application.
3. Slide the front idler assembly (3) into the appropriate end of the track frame, spring end first. Attach the idler
assembly (3) to the track frame using four capscrews and washers per unit. Torque the metric capscrews to
752 lb-ft or 1020 Nm. Access to these capscrews is available through the access cover (16) located on the
outer side of the track frame.
4. Attach the crawler drive gearbox (11) to the track frame using thirty capscrews (29) and lock washers (24).
Torque these metric capscrews to 1151 lb-ft, or 2050 Nm. Rotate gearbox to the same position as which it
was removed, to correctly time the sprockets and to reattach the hydraulic hoses.
5. Attach the crawler drive sprocket (14) to the gearbox (11) using thirty metric capscrews (23) and lock washers
(24). Torque these capscrews to 1151 lb-ft, or 2050 Nm. NOTE: The sprocket should be installed the same
way that it was removed to correctly align sprockets.
6. Loosen the grease valve in the front idler assembly (3) until grease can escape. Using a front-end loader or
forklift, collapse the front idler spring as much as possible to ease the assembly of the track chain (6).
7. With the track chain (6) under the track rollers (4), remove the tractor body/track frame from its lifting blocks
and set on track rollers (4). Align the track chain (6) with the crawler sprocket (14) teeth. Wrap the track chain
(6) around the sprocket (14) and run the excess toward the front idler (3).
8. Wrap the track chain (6) around the front idler assembly (3) and run the excess toward the crawler sprocket
(14).
9. If necessary, use a come-along to tighten the chain for master pin insertion. Insert the master pin into the
track chain (6) using a portable track press.
10. Attach the grouser pads to the track chain (6) using four capscrews (7) and lock nuts (8) per grouser. Torque
the grouser bolts to 1019 lb-ft plus 1/3 of a turn more.
11. Attach the track chain guides (17) to the track frame. Install guides using three capscrews (21) and lock
washers (22). Torque to 350-440 lb-ft.
12. Re-attach the hydraulic hoses to the crawler motor.
13. Tighten the track chain tension using the grease valve on the front idler assembly (3). This valve is located
inside the access cover (16). Check the track chain tension by placing a straight edge over the track and
measuring the track deflection mid-point between the carrier roller (5) and the front idler assembly (3). Do not
operate the track chain too tight.
14. When the track chain (6) is adjusted properly, Close the adjustment access cover (16) and secure with six
capscrews (20) and lock washers (18). Torque the capscrews to 45-55 lb-ft.
Service Section 7 4
EXTEND UNDERCARRIAGE LIFE
TEN TIPS TO HELP ELIMINATE WEAR

Let’s face it. Short of leaving tracked machines parked on blocks, there’s no avoiding undercarriage wear. But,
you can extend the life of your undercarriage by eliminating or reducing the controllable causes of wear. To do
that, TRENCOR recommends regular inspections and preventive maintenance. “Proper maintenance is the
simplest, most cost-effective way to increase the operating life of your undercarriage”.
Combine that with careful, conscientious operating practices, and you’re well on your way to many hours of repair-
free operation.
TRENCOR offers these 10 maintenance and operational tips to get you started:
1. CHECK AND ADJUST THE TRACK TENSION ON A REGULAR BASIS, ESPECIALLY AS JOB AND
SOIL CONDITIONS CHANGE.
9 This is particularly important when operating in mud, sand or clay. These materials tend to pack in the
tracks so it may be necessary to loosen the adjustment to avoid operating with the tracks too tight.
9 An easy-access hydraulic track adjuster, makes track adjustment a quick, simple operation.
2. KEEP THE TRACKS AS CLEAN AS POSSIBLE.
When abrasive materials like dirt and stones get packing in tracks, they can really speed up the wear
process. It’s especially important to clean the undercarriage more frequently in freezing temperatures.
consider parking the machine on planks or on a surface that will not freeze to the machine when the
thermometer drops below freezing.
3. CHECK FOR LOOSE OR MISSING HARDWARE ON A REGULAR BASIS.
Be sure to replace all missing or damaged parts immediately. Tighten all bolts to specifications,
recommended in your service manual.
4. AVOID HIGH-SPEED OPERATION, PARTICULARLY WHEN REVERSING AND IN ROUGH

TERRAIN.
As travel speed increases, so do wear rates on all components. Reverse operation at high speed can be
particularly damaging.
5. AVOID SPINNING THE TRACKS.
Spinning is non-productive and decreases undercarriage component life. Reducing track speed helps
prevent slippage.
6. INSTALL ROCK GUARDS BEFORE OPERATING IN ROCKY CONDITIONS.
These really help keep rocks from getting stuck in the track. However, use of rock guards is not
recommended when operating in mud or clay for extended periods.
5 Service Section 7
7. ON LUBRICATED TRACK, VISUALLY INSPECT THE MACHINE EACH DAY FOR LEAKING ROLLERS
AND TRACK PINS.
The use of lubricated track has virtually eliminated internal pin and bushing wear. However, this track
system is very dependent on seals. Left undetected, oil loss from a leaky seal will lead to a dried joint,
which will increase bushing wear.
8. VARY OPERATION AND KEEP TURNS TO A MINIMUM.
The types of work contractors typically do - such as continually working uphill, downhill or sideways -
increases wear on certain components. Turning also adds stress and side wear to the components. If you
must turn often, alternate turning directions so components wear more evenly.
9. WHENEVER POSSIBLE, MATCH THE TRACK SHOES TO THE UNDERFOOT CONDITIONS.
Track shoes must provide adequate traction and flotation - the ability to stay on the surface of soft ground
or mud - but should be no wider than necessary. Proper rotation occurs when the grouser fully penetrates
the ground without letting the track shoes go below the surface.
10. AVOID OPERATION ON CONCRETE AND OTHER HARD SURFACES WHEN POSSIBLE.
Operating on hard surfaces causes high impact loads which increase undercarriage wear.
Undercarriage wear is a fact of life. Fortunately by following the principles outlined above – regular
inspections, preventive maintenance and conscientious operating practices - you can control wear and
maximize undercarriage life.
Track Adjustment Procedure
1. For proper adjustment, tractor

should be in its working environment. (A)
is the track adjusting mechanism (under
the plate), and (B) is the front idler
bearing assembly.
2. Remove access plate and connect

grease gun to the fitting, on the track
adjusting mechanism. Extend hydraulic
track adjuster until track idler is at the
maximum forward position. (Relief valve
should remain closed.)
Service Section 7 6
3. At this point, track should be almost
straight between front carrier roller and
idler. Do not try to squeeze any packing
material from between the track parts.
4. At the front idler bearing assembly,

put a mark ½” past the machined
surface (of the idler bearing assembly)
on the track frame.
5. Open the hydraulic relief valve.
6. Place a track pin or a drawbar pin

between the sprocket teeth near the link.
7 Service Section 7
7. Move the machine in reverse until the idler backs
up ½”. The pin will be in approximately the
“12 o’clock position” of the sprocket. Then move
the machine forward until the pin is free of the
sprocket. Remove the pin.
8. Close the hydraulic relief valve. Extend

hydraulic track adjuster until the mark on the track
frame aligns with the mark on the machined
surface of the idler bearing assembly. The track is
now properly adjusted.
Service Section 7 8
MOVING A DISABLED MACHINE
Personal injury or death can result when you tow a disabled machine incorrectly. Read the following
recommendations.
If your machine is disabled, do not move the machine if the machine can not be moved without further damage. If
possible, repair the machine at the job location. If you must tow the machine, read the following recommendations
and use caution.
Brake Release
60 14
14
55
7
To BR on Manifold
To release the brakes, you must disconnect the hose, called out on the Plumbing Diagram 94000702, listed
To BR on Manifold. To ensure that both brakes are released, disconnect the hose between the BR on Manifold and
the item seven (7) adapter as shown above. The hose will have to be hooked to a Port-a-power capable of
producing 350-750psi. When this set-up is complete and the Port-a-power is running, both brakes will be released.
Once the repairs have been accomplished, disconnect the Port-a-power and reconnect the hose to the Manifold.
Your brakes will still be disengaged until you start the engine. Once the engine is running, the brakes will be
restored.
9 Service Section 7
Trencher Towing
The trencher can be towed a short distance, for service or repair, without operating the drive tracks.
Note: You will first have to disengage the brakes before the trencher can be towed. Please read the Brake Release
in this section.
To provide for this, the pumps are designed with a bypass function. The bypass is operated by mechanically
rotating the bypass hex on both multifunction valves three turns counterclockwise. This connects working loop A
and B and allows fluid to circulate without rotating the pump and drive tracks. Once the service or repair work is
finished, mechanically rotate the bypass hex on both multifunction valves three turns clockwise.
Note: Bypass valves are intended for moving the trencher for a very short distance at a very slow speed.
Crawler Gearbox Service
Description
The planetary gear drive, with integral Rexroth plug-in piston motor and hydraulically released multiple disc brake,
is installed as one complete unit into the crawler frame. Subassembly of components is not required. The gear case
and hydraulic motor have independent oil reservoirs. Although the motor is integrated, servicing or replacing the
motor can be done without the removal of the gear drive. The propel drive is suitable to be mounted on either the
left or right side of the machine.
• Planetary Gear — The planetary gearbox consists of 3 stage design complete with an integrated,
hydraulically released multi-plate parking brake and a disconnect mechanism. A Plug-in motor is mounted
directly to the gearbox. To ensure an optimum balancing of loads, each planetary stage comprises of
planet gears in sets. The externally toothed wheels are case-hardened. The gearbox runs in antifriction
bearings exclusively and has a splash lubrication system. A special mechanical seal reliably protects the
tumbler bearing system against the ingress of dirt and dust.
• Brake — The hydraulically released, wet running, multi-plate brake, integrated in the gearbox, is a
parking brake. It is normally closed by spring force and released when pressurized by hydraulic oil. In case
of malfunctions, excessive thermal stress, and all repair work on the parking brake, make sure to always
replace the following: disks = items 58, 59, 148 & 149, seals = 60, 61, 62 & 63.
Installation
The unit has to be installed in a manner that the external loads are transmitted by the pilot diameters. The friction
locks between the crawler frame, the sprocket, and the drive flanges, generated by the fastening bolts, transmit
the torque. The sprocket must be fitted onto the drive without hammer blows. Remove the cap plugs from all ports
before connecting the hydraulic lines. ATTENTION: Be careful that dirt and / or foreign matter do not enter the
hydraulic circuit. The case drain port on the hydraulic motor should be located in the up position to maintain an oil
filled case and should be filled before start-up.
• Start-Up — Before operating the gear drive, fill through the oil inlet clean oil, which complies with the
lubrication recommendations. The required oil quantity is approximately 10.14 gallons (39 L). The accurate
oil level is determined by the oil level plug, which should be removed before the oil fill. Before start up, all
screw plugs shall be checked for oil tightness.
Hydraulic oil is required to release the brake. The oil viscosity should not exceed 90° C. Special seals are
necessary if fluids other than hydraulic fluid are used. Prior notification is required for permission to use
these fluids. The minimum brake release pressure equals 261 psi and the maximum release pressure shall
not exceed 725 psi.
With the motor and gear case filled to their proper fill levels, start the machine and allow sufficient time for
run-in at moderate pressure and speed prior to running at full throttle. After a short period of operation,
the oil level in the gear case should be rechecked, since the oil is now well distributed. The pressure at
the motor case drain port shall not exceed 1 bar, or 14.5 psi.
Maintenance
Daily: Check unit for oil leakage.
Weekly: Check oil level.
Monthly: Check mounting bolts for tightness.
Oil Change: First oil change after 150 Hours and thereafter, every 250 hours.

99-T1660-166 Service Manual

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Model T1660

99-T1660-166 FAYSAL M QAHTANI SONS CO.

Part Number Description Quantity

AU111514 Assembly, Tractor 1

The information contained in this manual contains technical and

©2001 Trencor, Inc.

DIGGING CHAIN GUARD INSTALLATION ............................................................................................... 1

BOOM INSTALLATION ............................................................................................................................. 4

DOUBLE D8 TAILWHEEL ASSEMBLY ..................................................................................................... 10

BOOM ADJUST CYLINDER - SERVICE.................................................................................................... 12

DIGGING TOOTH REPLACEMENT .......................................................................................................... 12

The following procedures describe how to disassemble and

Disassembly – Primary Chain Guard

1. Position trencher for accessibility of maintenance equipment.

CAUTION: At this point the chain guard must be fully

Assembly – Chain Guard Extension

Removing The Primary Boom Section

Installing The Primary Boom Section

14. With the drive sprockets rotating slowly in

Chain Tensioning Procedure

Double D6 Tailwheel – Service

Disassembly – Adjustment Cylinder

Assembly – Adjustment Cylinder

DIGGING TOOTH REPLACEMENT

b) EXTERNAL CLIP – The tooth shaft has a turned down

DIGGING DRIVE ASSEMBLY.................................................................................................................... 1

DRIVE CHAINS ........................................................................................................................................ 2

COUNTERSHAFT ASSEMBLY .................................................................................................................. 12

DIFFERENTIAL OUTPUT ........................................................................................................................ 20

DIFFERENTIAL UNIT ............................................................................................................................. 24

DIGGING SPROCKET ASSEMBLY........................................................................................................... 26

CAUTION: When connecting or

WELDING should not be performed on any chain or component.

SEAL DIRECT ION

SEAL DIRECT ION

SEAL DIRECT ION

Adjustment Procedure for the Differential &

CONVEYOR ASSEMBLY ............................................................................................................................ 1

CONVEYOR DRIVE PULLEY...................................................................................................................... 3

CONVEYOR IDLER ................................................................................................................................... 4

DRIVE PULLEY ASSEMBLY....................................................................................................................... 6

CONVEYOR BELT INSTALLATION............................................................................................................ 7

CONVEYOR BELT ADJUSTMENT .............................................................................................................. 7

CONVEYOR BELT INSTALLATION (DETAILED)........................................................................................ 8

Removal – Drive Pulley Scraper Assembly

PULLEY SCRAPER ASSEMBLY

Removal – Conveyor Idler (Standard)

Removal – Conveyor Idler (Pivot)

Installation – Conveyor Idler (Standard)

Installation – Conveyor Idler (Pivot)

Conveyor Belt Adjustment

Illustration 1 Illustration 2 Illustration 3

Illustration 4 Illustration 5 Illustration 6

Illustration 7 Illustration 8 Illustration 9

CONVEYOR SHIFT ASSEMBLY ................................................................................................................. 1

CONVEYOR SHIFT GEARBOX ASSEMBLY................................................................................................. 3

Lubricant Type: Mobilgrease® HP

1. Remove top plug (5) in the housing before installing grease.

REPAIR INDICATORS FOR ENGINES ...................................................................................................... 2

DRIVESHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS................................................................................................... 5

INSPECTION AND LUBRICATING UNIVERSAL JOINTS........................................................................... 6

ENGINE RADIATORS AND OIL COOLERS .............................................................................................. 10