L) )i-ø-’ ,kaim-’

HOW TO USE AND CARE FOR YOUR’

WHITE De Luxe ZIG-ZAG

sewing machine
MODEL 625

11

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 Modern in appearance and functional in design, your new White automatic
t
sewing machine will enable you to do zigzag stitching, embroidery and straigh
s.
sewing with equal ease because of its many improved and simplified feature

To help you become thoroughly acquainted with your machine and to assure
tion hook.
you of mans’ hours of trouble-free sewing, we have prepared this instruc
on thread
Please read it carefully and refer to it whenever you need information
on the
ing, stitch and tension adjustments, cleaning or any of the operations listed
next page.

WHITE SEWING MACHINE CORPORATION

CLEAVELAND II, OHIO

White Sewing Machine Products Ltd

Toronto 1, Ontario, Canada.

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 ei
Page Page
CONTENTS 1 12. TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE
NAME OF EACH PART 2 ON THE PRESSER FOOT 13
SPECIAL FEATURES 3 13. TO USE THE DROP FEED 14
1. TO WIND THE BOBBIN 4-.-5 14. BUILT-IN LIGHT 15
2. TO THE SET NEEDLE 5 15. TO OIL SEWING MACHINE 15
3. TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE 6 ...

16. SOME USEFUL SEWING HINTS 16

4. TO REPLACE AND REMOVE
THE BOBBIN CASE 7 17. CAUSES OF TROUBLES 17
5. TO CLEAN THE SHUTTLE RACE 8 ...
18. ZIG-ZAG SEWING 18
6. TO THREAD THE 19. SEWING ON BUTTONS 19
MACHINE & NEEDLE 9 20. MAKING BUTTONHOLES 20—.-2 1
7. TO PREPARE FOR SEWING 10 21. DARNING AND EMBROIDERY 21
8. TO COMMENCE SEWING 10 22. QUILTING 22
9. TO REMOVE THE WORK 11
23. SEWING BRAIDS 22
10. TO REGULATE
1HE THREAD TENSION 11-.-12 ...
24. NARROW HEMMER 23

11. TO REGULATE THE 25. SEAM GUIDE & THUMB SCREW 24

STITCH LENGTH 12 26. NEEDLE & THREAD SIZES 25

1 -

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 JVane q each Pwd

• Automatic darner
tpressure reguiator
2. Pressure release ever
5 3. Take-up lever
87 4. Upper arm thread guides

I /\ ii 5. Arm
6. Spool pins
7. Stitch length regulating dial
8. Reverse stitch button
9. Balance wheel
0. Bobbin winder release
I. Bobbin winder
2. Bobbin winder thread guide
28\ 3. Drop heed push button
14. Drop Feed release button
5. Vertical arm
27 16. Bed-plate
17. Thread tension indicator
26 18. Check spring
19. Thread guide arm
20. Needle clamp
24. 21. Peed dog
22. 1-linged pressure Foot
23. Needle
24. Slide plate
25, Presser Foot thumb screw
26. Needle bar
27. Thread cutter
21 28. Race plate thread guides
29. Lock screw For stop 3l
16 30. Lock screw For stop 33
31. Stop For lever 32
32. Zig-zag width adjusting lever
33. Stop For lever 32

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 Speci %ahi-es

AUTOMATIC DARNER PRESSURE REGULATOR - enables you to select the exact pressure
according to the kind of material you are sewing.

STITCH REGULATOR regulates the stitch length and helps you to select the stch size
-

with ease and accuracy.

AUTOMATIC REVERSE STITCH BUTTON - enables you to sew in reverse automatically.

AUTOMATIC BOBBIN WINDER winds your bobbin and stops automatically when your bobbin is
-

Pilled.

CALIBRATED UPPER THREAD TENSION REcULAToR allows the tension of the upper
-

thread to be easily and accurately adjusted according to thread and material weight differences.

DROP FEED PUSI-I BUTTON regulates the height of your feed dog for embroidering or
-

darning and for different weights of fabrics.

BUILT IN LIGHT - illuminates your work for better nd efficient sewing without glare. Light
bulb is easily changed.

SNAP-OUT RACE - is so constructed that cleaning and eliminating tangled threads are very
simple and quick.

FLOATING PRESSER FOOT glides over pins. -

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 1. Ta ‘JtIi
d i4e tatI
1
1. To wind the bobbin the balance wheel must be disconnected from the stitching mechanism. 1-bid the balance
wheel with your left hand and turn the ciotch rig. 1 toward you with your right hand. This will permit
the hand wheel to turn freely while the needle bar remains motionless. The balance wheel is now
disconnected for the bobbin winding operation.

2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin (Pig. 2).

Draw thread from spool over guides, then down
ward across machine from left to right.

3. Pass the thread through the tension discs at the

right corner of the base of the machine.

4. Now wind the end of the thread around an empty

bobbin seven or eight times and place the threaded
bobbin on the spindle of the bobbin winder.

5. By pressing on the bobbin winder lever, the small

rubber wheel is brought in contact with the balance
wheel. To lock into position, press bobbin winder
lever until a clicK Is heard. The bobbin winder
release latch is now touching the shaft of the bobbin.
It holds the bobbin in place.

Fig. 1
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 6. Operate the foot control or knee
conrol in the same manner as far
sewing and when the pobbin is
completely Full it wil
1 stop turning
automatically.
Remove bobbin from spindle. Hold
balance wheel Firmly with the left
hand and with the right hand turn
clutch away From you until it can
not be moved any Farther. The
needle bar now moves with the
tuning of the balance wheel.

P. 2

-——NEEOLE ,NEEDLE
BAR

-FLAT
2. To ihe Sd IVeedle
NEEDLE
TI4PEAD GUARD SCREW SURFACE
‘NEEOLE 1. Turn the balance wheel toward you, raising needle ber to
CLAMP
its highest position, and loosen the needle clamp screw.
-NEEDLE 2. Hold the needle in the left hand with the point down, and
insert the needle up into the needle clamp as far as it will
NEEOLEZTHREA0 go, with its flat surface to the right then retighten the
HOLE ih-’-—. clamp screw (Pig. 3.
Fig. 3

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 3. To Th’tead the &ilt& e
Before threading the bobbin case, study Pig. 4, 5, and 6 to
get a general idea as to how it is done.
1. F-told the bobbin case with your left hand and put the bobbin into
the bobbin case with your right hand, leaving about two inches
of the thread end unwound
(Pig. 4). As the bobbin is being
inserted in the bobbin case
the thread flow is clockwise.

Fig. 6

2. While holding the bobbin case

as before, grasp the thread end
with your right hand, and guide
Fig. 5
it into the cross slot (Pig. 5.

3. Then pull it through under the tension spring of the

bobbin case “Pig. 5’ until it enters the delivery
eye (Pig. 6.
Fig.

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 4. Ta /?eztace azd /emo.ie
g’he J2O1LILÜi eQALe
1. Raise the presser foot by lifting the presser bar lifter.
2. Raise the needle bar to its highest point, by turning the
balance wheel toward you.
3. Pull out slide plate ‘Pig. 7
4. After threading the bobbin case, hold it by the latch with
its position finger opposite the notch at the top of the
shuttle race. Replace it on the center stud of the shuttle
(Pig. 8).
5. Then release
the latch and
press the bob
bin case in
until the latch
Fig. 7
catches the
groove near
the end of the
stud with a click that can be heard.
6. Allow the end of the thread to hang free about 2 to 3 inches.
7. Pull back slide plate.
To remove the bobbin case do all the above in reverse order.

Fig. 8

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 5. Ta eIea. Sh4lle IZ’ace
When the thread is tangled in the race or dust gets into
the space between the shuttle and shuttle race, follow this
procedure
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position and take
bobbin case out.

II
Fig. 9

2. Release the KNOBS A on both sides of shuttle race by

pulling them sidewise, then take out the race cover “B”
and the shuttle. Pig. 9, 10
3. After shuttle race and bobbin case have been cleaned, put
all of them back in reverse order.
4. Snap knobs into place as seen in Pig. 9.

Fig. 10

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 6. To Thead i4e iWachiwie g J1’eedle

1. Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever
to its highest position.

2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.

(lig. 1).
3. Lead the thread through the arm thread-guides

4. Pun the thread down through the thread-guide to the tension

discs and around them From right to left and up.
Draw the thread up through the check spring and thread
guide arm.

5. Then pass the thread through the eye of the thread take-up
lever from right to left.

6. Now run the thread down through the face plate guides
and then through the loop of the needle bar guide from
the back.
the
7. Finally, run the end of the thread through the eye of
needle FROM LEFT TO RlGl-lT, drawing it through aboui
Fg. 11
3 or 4 inches.

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 7. Ta /‘ejzae ja. Sewui
left hand, leaving
1. l-old the end of the upper thread with the
it slack from the hand to the needle .
the needle goes
2. Turn the balance wheel toward you as
down and rises to its highes t position.
thread will be
3. Pull the thread you are holding, and lower- -plate, as
brought up with it through the hole in the needle
shown (Fig. 12.
behind the
4. Place both ends of the upper and lower thread
presser foot Fig. 13

Fig. 12

8. Ta eie 9
Seu i#z
foot.
1. Place the fabric to be sewn beneath the presser bar lifter
loweri ng the presser
2. Lower the presser fcot, by
Fig. 11).
the balance wheel
3. Commence sewing by slowly turning
towards you while gradua lly pressin g the lever of the foot
or knee contro l.
from you.
Fig. 13 Always turn balance wheel toward you and not away

10 —

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 9. Ta /emaue he ‘k/a’zh
1 Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the balance
wheel toward you.
Fig. 4 Correct Stich
2. Raise the pressere foot by lifting the presser bar lifter.
3. Move the fabric back to the left and cut off the thread by passing
over the thread-cutter above the presser foot.
it

4. Leave both ends of the thread a few inches long, under and to the Needle Thread Tensicn too strong

back of the presser foot.

10. Ta /e9uIate 4e Th’iead Tesa. Needle Thread Tension too weak

For ordinary stitching the tension of the upper and

lower threads should be equal so as to lock both
threads in the center of the material Pig. 1 4 . If one
tension is stronger than the other, imperfect stitching
will result. Fine materials require a light tension,
while heavy materials require more tension to obtain
a perfect stitch.
To INCREASE the tension, turn the thread tension
indecator ‘Fig. 15 clockwise.
TO LESSEN the tension, turn the thread tension
indicator in the opposite direction. When regulating
tension always have the presser foot down/.
Fig. 15

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 Tension regulating screw
As all machines are correctly adjusted before leaving the factory the lower tension seldom
needs to be altered, but, if this be comes necessary, tighten the screw in the tension spring
on the outside of the bobbin case for more tension, or loosen the screw slightly for lesser
tension ig 16
NOTE : Do not turn screw in either direction more than about one-quarter turn at a time.
Then check for results.

Pig. 16

If. Ta 9
/e
u Icde ifhe Süich .J?e#i94

The length of the stitch can be changed by turning the

stitch length regulating dial “L”. pig. 1 7
When the number 0, appears under the pointer the
material is not being fed through the machine.
To change stitch turn the dial clcckwise gradually to
feed material forward and to lengthen stitch. The
longest stitch is at 5, the shortest near 0.
To sew backward, push the Button R”, and material
will be fed backward automatically.
When you take your finger off the button, the machine
will again sew forward.

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 12 Ia I?e€1a1e he P’i&isu’ze o 44e P’sesse- 42&

To regulate the pressure for darning and embroidering, press latch down thereby releasing pressure Pig. 18
Place a finger on the DARNER to cushion the sudden rise of this cap when it is released *

Allow the DARNER to rise all the way siowly ‘Pig. 19

Por ordinary sewing, push automatic darner back down ‘Pig. 18.
When little pressure is required for thin fabrics, push darner only pert way down.

DARNER

ia
4
Fig. 18

13

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 13. To ‘Use he o71z 4leed

By using the drop feed buttons you may adjust the feed dog for sewing different types of materials

and for embroidering or darning Pig. 20

1. or sewing very light fabrics, push the drop Feed button “DOWN” half-way; for heavier cloth push the

button marked “UP” to return feed to highest level.

2. When the drop Feed button “DOWN” is pushed down completely, the feed will be lowered below

the surface of the needle plate.

This is for embroidering and darn

DROP FEED PUSH BUTTON DROP FEED RELEASE BUITON
ing, and you wili be able to move

your work freely about in any

direction ycu choose.

3. Por embroidering and darning, first p

remove pressure on presser foot

(Page 19).

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 14. i2ad1- &çhi’ Lu

The lamp housing is enclosed in the lower side of

the arm Pig. 21 Turn switch right Knob clockwise
.

to light, and do the same to turn it off.

Pull down left knob to replace n burned out bulb
with a new one.

Fig. 22

/5• To I 4e Sew jWach.#ze

To have your mchino aways in smocth running condition
you must keep it oiled at all times.
No grease is necessary. Just a drop of oil is sufficient
Fig. 21
at each time. Oiling points are iliustrated in Pig. 22. Tilt
the machine over to get oiling points underneath the bed.
After oiling, run the machine at high speed for a few
minutes to get oil to penetrate to all parts.
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 A
ü
1 ds
/6. So.ne ‘Us44’ Sewu

ERS:
TO TURN CORN still in the material.
ma chi ne while the needle is as a pivot.
1. St op the
t and tur n the fab ric using the needle
r foo
2. Raise the presse sewing.
pre sse r foot and resume
3. Lower the
h reduced
W EL AS TI C FA BRICS: th, etc ., it is adv isa ble to sew them wit
TO SE s, bias Cut clo stretched.
stic materials as jersey the sewn materials are
In sewing such ela d wil l bre ak wh en
otherwise the threa
upper thread tension.
er
spaper or any oth
TO SEW VERY TH
IN CLOTH:
to ga the r as you sew , place a sheet of new you r wo rk
ds This will keep
thin cloth which ten stitch possible.
When sewing very sew wit h the sh ort est
ath the material and
thin paper underne
from gathering.
sible.
BASTIN&: the longest stitch pos
sio n of the upp er thread and employ d.
1. Reduce the ten thr ea
by pulling the lower
sti tches ma y the n be easily removed
2. The
ECT CONDITION:
UR MACHINE IN PERF an.
TO KE EP YO nstantly oiled and cle
ep all mo vin g par ts of the machine co han d.
1. Ke , even when by
ance wheel toward you
2. Always turn bal er the presser foot. signed
ne without fabric und needle. The machine is de
3. Do not run machi becaus e you wil l ben d the
not pull the material
4. When sewing, do
automatically.
to feed the material lifter is raised.
opera te ma chi ne when the presser bar
5. Do not

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 17 eause o/ Ttoa41e

BREAKING OF THE UPPER THREAD:

1. Incorrect threading. 2. Upper thread tension too tight.
3. Defective needle, or needle set incorrectly.
4. Needle rubbing against presser foot or other attachments.
5. Needle eye too small for thread used. 6. Imperfections in sewing thread.
7. 1-lole in needle plate damaged and rough.
BREAKING OF THE LOWER THREAD:
1. Incorrect threading of the bobbin case. 2. Lower thread tension too tight.
3. Bobbin being wound too fully.
BREAKING OF THE NEEDLE:
1. Pulling the fabric while machine is sewing thus causing the needle to strike the needle plate.
2. Using bent needle.
SKIPPING STITCHES:
1. Using bent or blunt needles. 2. Needle inserted incorrectly.
3. Needle threaded improperly. 4. Using wrong size needle.
5. Pressure on presser foot insufficient, especially when sewing heavy material.
UNEVEN STITCHES:
1. Presser foot not resting evenly on material. 2. Peed dog not adjusted high enough.
3. Too short stitches used. 4. Pulling the cloth while the machine is sewing.
5. Needle too fine for material or thread too coarse.

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 6. a Sewu
9
Your zig-zag sewing machine, by virtue of its deiign, permits
you to do many kinds of work. The Controls for the zigzag
stitch are located on the arm of the machine, as may be seen
on Fig. 23. Notice lever “B” which adjusts the width of the
zigzag seam. For ordinary straight sewing this lever must be
set to the left, at ‘0’ on the indicator. By moving this lever
gradually to the right toward “5” the machine will sew a zigzag
seam of increasing width, depending on the position of the
ever. To return to a previously used width of zigzag stitch
after having done some straight sewing, or for special types of >
work such as sewing buttons or making bar tacks, stop “A” will Li
be found useful. This serves as a stop for lever “B”. To
set stop “A”, loosen lock screw “D”, turning it to the left.
You then will be able to slide it sideways which, moves
stop “A” to the desired marking. Tighten lock screw “D” by
turning to the right. The lock screw also tightens stop “E”.
it

The purpose of this stop is to make possible a second setting

of zig-zag width. Thus, when you want to alternate between

— 18

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 a narrow and a wide zigzag stitch, you use both stops “A” and “E”. Por example, set stop “A’ at 4 and
‘E” at 1, tightening the lock screws, “C” and “D”. This will assure you oF being able to always revert
to the same size zigzag seams. You will find this feature especially covenient when making buttonholes.
(Refer to chapter on making buttonholes;.

19. Seuu az

Turn balance wheel toward you to raise needle to its highest position. Raise
presser bar and remove regular presser foot. Attach button sewing foot
shown in Pig. 25. Drop the feed as required for darning and embroidery.
Upper end lower thread tensions remain the same as for ordinary sewing.
Place material or garment with button under the presser foot, so that
holes in button line up with oblong opening in presser foot.
With zigzag stitch knob “N” (Pig. 23( adjust width of zig zag stitch to
permit needle to pass through center of holes in button. Before sewing
with power, turn balance wheel by hand (toward you) making one stitch
into each hole in the button, to be sure that needle clears. Then sew F;g. 25

five to six stitches to attach button. Move zigzag stitch knob “N” Pig.
23 to 0 and take two or three stitches through the same hole to lock thread. Remove garment from
machine and snip threads.
When attaching four-hole buttons, follow above procedure twice.

- 19 -

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 .20. ,Yahi &dhoIes

“S” Rig. 23 at 2.
1. Set the zigzag stitch locking dial n. Remove regular
wheel toward you to bring needle to its highest positio
2. Raise presser foot and turn balance
nhole foot shown in
ing thumb screw, and attatch special butto
presser Foot From presser bar by loosen
fig. 26. Tighten thumb screw.
to obtain closely spaced Forward stitches. Best length of stitch for
3. Set stitch length regulator knob “L” of stitch, if
(rig. 17) is placed between 0 and 1. Adjust length
buttonholes is when the knob “L”
arance of buttonhole.
necessary, to get best possible appe
tension, turning tension
4. Slightly tighten needle thread
regulator to the right. IF appearance of buttonhole
y vary tension
should not prove satiscactory, slightl
.
until the desired results are obtained

one or two sample

NOTE: It is suggested that you make
buttonholes on a scrap of your garm
ent fabric, to test )
corrections, if
adjustments of machine and to make
n
needed. Also mark with pencil or chalk the positio
t.
and exact length of buttonhole on garmen Fig. 26
under the button
To sew buttonhole, place garment
pencil or chalk
hole presser foot with the start of
opening.
marking showing in center of presser foot
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 pencil or chalk marking showing in senter of presser foot opening. Stitch left side of buttonhole to end
of marking. Stop machine with needle to the right of stitching. Leave needle in fabric, raise presser foot
and turn garment half-way around in clockwise direction. Let presser foot down, raise needle and push
zigzag stitch lever ig. 23 to the right as far as it can be moved. Sew four or five stitches to make
the bar at one end of the bottonhole. Return zigzag stitch lever to the left position at 2 and sew the
other side of buttonhole. When arriving at end of buttonhole, again move zigzag stitch lever to the right
for making second bar with four to Five stitches. Remove garment from machine and open button
hole with cutter or buttonhole scissors. Be careful to avoid cutting the buttonhole stitching. To
make reinforced buttonholes introduce gimp of proper size into the small hole at the front of the button
hole foot. Sew over gimp as machine makes buttonhole seams. Por flat buttonholes leave thread tension
pretty much the same as for ordinary sewing. Pearl stitch buttonholes require a tight tension of the needle
thread, Por better appearance, use needle thread of the next heavier size.

21. .aiüz azd L’mL’wide

Push the drop feed button “DOWN’ all the way down to permit the fabric to be moved in any direction.
Remove presser foot and release pressure as shown in Pig. 18.
Embroidery is most successful when fabric is stretched in a hoop. old hoop on machine bed with both
hands, operating machine at a fairly high speed while moving the work slowly. Slightly increase the
bobbin thread tension to prevent the lower thread being pulled up.

— 21 —

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 2a1h4
to sew evenly spaced
qui ltin g atta chm ent Pig. 26 will enable you
The
in advance.
s without marking them
lines on padded fabric g
the machine, First pull lon
atta ch the qui lter to the presser bar of
To Place the clamp on tne
se-shoe shaped clamp.
curved bar out of hor holes in
pre sse r foo t, and push the bar through
presser bar abo ve
C

1 clamp. needle so that it

end of bar to desired distance from
Adjust curved lock quilter attach
o fab ric , Th en tig hten thumb screw to
presses int should follow preceding
-

int o pla ce. Wh en sewing, quilter bar

ment
Fig, 26
line of stitching.
lting with
g is don e the sam e as straight stitch qui
Zigzag stitch quiltin
th.
set for any desired wid
the zigzag stitch lever

23. 9
S ewüi &aids
iding foot,
sse r Fo ot fro m the machine and attach bra
Remove regular pre Front of foot.
. 27. Th rea d bra id through small hole at
as shown in Pig a covering of
zig zag sea m and length of stitch to obtain
Adjust width of
you are sewing.
app ear s mo st des irable for the material
the braid wh ich
e the beauty of
thr ead of a con tra sting color will enhanc
Using needle
your braiding.
22

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 .24. j4a44ow d/enine-z

Turn balance wheel toward you until needle reaches its highest
point. Raise presser bar and remove regular presser foot.
Attach hemmer foot (Fig. 28). Now handle material as
follows
1. Fold over edge of material approximately ‘“ then fold
it over again for about 2”. Insert this folded end into
spiral formed opening (scrolL of hemmer foot.
Move material back and forth until the hem forms itself
in the scroll.
Fig. 28 2. Pull material toward you until the beginning of the hem is
just below the needle.
3. Lower presser foot and begin to sew. Guide material into hemmer foot while proceeding with work
Fig. 28

NOTE : Do not crowd material into scroll and do not leave scroll only partly fifled by material. Feed just
enough material into the hemmer foot to fill out the scroll.
Instead of a straight stitch, you can also use a zigzag stitch for this hemming operation. Be sure,
however, to adjust the width of the zigzag stitch to the width of the hem. Using a very long stitch
and tight tensions will produce a shell stitch.

—23 —

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 Sc4ew
25. Sea#n Qude &
for straight stitching
is an att ac hm en t designed as a guide
This
width which are
kin g wid e hem s, deep tucks, or seam
when ma
31
r foot allows. ‘lig.
greater than presse
operation.
to ma ch ine as illus trated...a very simple
It is attached

Fig. 31

24

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 25. NEEDLE - THREAD - FABRIC - STITCHIN6 3UIDE

Machine
abric Needle No. I Stitches Cotton Mercerized Silk or
per lncn Thread Thread Nylon
Extremely heavy-tarpaulin, sacking, 6 10
canvas, duck, etc. 4 to to Heavy Duty —

8 30
Heavy-unholstery Fabric, ticking, 8 30
.

denim, leatherett, etc. 3 to to Heavy Duty —

10 40
Medium-heavy drapery fabric, velveteen, 10 40
suiting, felt, terry, etc.
.
2 to to Heavy Duty —

12 60
Medium-broadclote, percale, gingham,
linen, chintz, taffeta, sheer wool, 12 60
1 to to 50 A
shuntung, etc. 14 80

Sheer-voile, lawn, dimity, cgepe, 12 to 14 80

handkerchief linen, plastic film, etc. 0 50
(PJticPiIm A

Very sheer-chiffon, batiste, lace, 16 100

organdy, ninon, net, marquisette, etc.
.
00 to to 50 A
20 150

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