Introduction to Cotton and its Production Process

Cotton Fibre
• Cotton is a soft, fluffy, vegetable staple fiber that grows in a boll, around the seeds of the cotton plants
which belongs to the genus Gossypium in the mallow family Malvaceae.
• The English name “Cotton” derives from the Arabic “Quotn” (‫)قطن‬, meaning a delicate material.
• It has been cultivated for more than 7000 years and the most important trait of its biodegradability and
sustainability.
• Due to its remarkable strength and absorbency, cotton is often hailed as the "King of fibers" which makes
it suitable for a range of clothing and other home textile applications.

Major Cotton Producing Countries are:

• USA
• China
• India
• Uzbekistan
• Egypt
• Mali
• Sudan
• Benin
• Turkey
• Australia
• Pakistan
• Brazil
• CIS
(Common
wealth of
Independent
State)
• Zimbabwe
• Greece

Notes: The United States was the leading exporter of cotton worldwide in 2021/2022. In that time period, the
U.S. cotton industry had an export volume of about 3.2 million metric tons. Despite being one of the world's top
cotton-producing countries, China held the distinction of being the largest global importer of cotton in the
2021/2022 period. In that time period, Bangladesh- a leader in textile manufacturing, had imported approximately
1.74 million metric tons of cotton.

Md. Bashar Uddin, Assistant Professor, Department of Yarn Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Tejgaon, Dhaka-1208,
Bangladesh; bashar@ye.butex.edu.bd
 Introduction to Cotton and its Production Process

The world cotton price has shown fluctuations over the years from 2010 to 2023. These fluctuations can be
attributed to factors such as supply and demand dynamics, weather conditions, global economic conditions, and
trade policies. It reached a peak in 2011 at 154.98 cents and then gradually declined until 2014, hitting a low of
83.1 cents. From 2014 to 2016, the price remained relatively stable before experiencing another decline until
2019. In 2020, there was a slight recovery, followed by a rebound in 2021 to 101.19 cents. The price surged
significantly in 2022 to 140.02 cents but decreased slightly to 129.23 cents in 2023.

Types of Cotton: There are four commercially grown species of cotton-

• Gossypium hirsutum – upland cotton, native to Central America, Mexico, the Caribbean and southern
Florida. Around 90% of world cotton production is such types.
• Gossypium barbadense – known as extra-long staple cotton (Pima), native to tropical South America.
Around 8% of world cotton production is such types.
• Gossypium arboreum – tree cotton, native to India and Pakistan. Less than 2% of world cotton production
is such types.
• Gossypium herbaceum – levant cotton, native to Southern Africa and the Arabian Penisula. Less than
2% of world cotton production is such types.

Md. Bashar Uddin, Assistant Professor, Department of Yarn Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Tejgaon, Dhaka-1208,
Bangladesh; bashar@ye.butex.edu.bd
 Introduction to Cotton and its Production Process

Fig. Brief description of cotton

Cotton Production Process:

• Land Preparation
• Seed Sowing
• Thinning
• Weed & Chemical Control
• Fertilization
• Pest Control
• Cotton Plant Growth and Development
• Harvesting or Picking
• Storage
• Cotton Ginning
• Packaging or Baling

Description of Cotton Production Process:

Land Preparation: In spring, the land is cleared for planting. Mechanical cultivators rip out weeds and grass that
may compete with the cotton for soil nutrients, sunlight, and water, and may attract pests that harm cotton. The
land is ploughed under and soil is broken up and formed into rows.
Seed Sowing: Cottonseed is mechanically planted by machines that plant up to 12 rows at a time. The planter
opens a small trench or furrow in each row, drops the seed, covers them, and then packs more dirt on top of them.
The seed is placed 0.75 to 1.25” deep, depending on the climate.

Md. Bashar Uddin, Assistant Professor, Department of Yarn Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Tejgaon, Dhaka-1208,
Bangladesh; bashar@ye.butex.edu.bd
 Introduction to Cotton and its Production Process

Thinning: Thinning for removing excess cotton plants for better cotton growing. Thinning can be started as soon
as the cotton plant is about 4” tall. A spacing between one plant to another of 12-14” is recommended.
Weed Control: Weeds significantly reduce the yield of cotton. Hence good weed control is important for
successful cotton production.
Weeds can be controlled by-
a. Manually: With hand pulling.
b. Mechanically: With inter-row cultivators, moulding discs and spring tynes.
c. Chemically: With herbicides. Herbicides are generally applied on bare soil for weed suppression
immediately after the cotton has been planted and before germination occurs. After emergence of cotton
plant, herbicides have to be used with more caution.
Fertilization: Adequate fertilizer is provided depending on soil types and rain fall regimes across the island.
Pest Control: Cotton is attacked by a wide range of insects, most of which can cause serious damage. Almost
every stage of development of the plant is prone to attack. The pink Bollworm is the most devastating pest.
Insecticides are used to control pest at various stage of cotton plant development.
Cotton Plant Growth and Development: Approximately six weeks after seedlings appear flower buds. The buds
mature for three weeks and then blossom into creamy yellow flowers, which turn pink, then red, and then fall off
just three days after blossoming. After the flower falls away, a tiny ovary is left on the cotton plant. This ovary
ripens and enlarges into a green pod called a cotton boll.
The boll matures in a period that ranges from 55 to 80 days. During this time, boll grows and moist fibers push
the newly formed seeds outward. As the boll ripens, it remains green. Fibers continue to expand under the warm
sun, with each fiber growing to its full length during three weeks. For nearly six weeks, the fibers get thicker and
layers of cellulose build up the cell walls. Ten weeks after flowers first appeared, bursting the matured cotton boll
and cream-colored cotton pushes forth. The moist fibers dry in the sun and the fibers collapse and twist together,
looking like ribbon. Each boll contains three to five "cells," each having about seven seeds embedded in the fiber.
At this point the cotton plant is defoliated (removing the leaves) if it is to be machine harvested.

Figure: Cotton Plant Growth and Development

Md. Bashar Uddin, Assistant Professor, Department of Yarn Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Tejgaon, Dhaka-1208,
Bangladesh; bashar@ye.butex.edu.bd
 Introduction to Cotton and its Production Process

Harvesting or Picking: The time required for cotton to go from the seedling stage to the first appearance of a
flower is typically around 60-70 days. After that, it takes approximately 50-70 days for the cotton boll to develop.
Once the boll bursts open, it takes an additional 15-20 days for harvesting. Cotton harvesting/picking is done
either by hand or by machine. The cotton plant is defoliated (removing the leaves) if it is to be machine harvested.
Storage: Cotton is stored in "modules” in water-resistant containers in the fields until they are ready to be ginned.
Ginning: Ginning is the process of separating adhering fibres from the cotton seeds. It is the first mechanical
process involved in processing cotton. Ginning mills separate cotton fibres from the seed bolls and dust particles.

Baling or Packaging: After ginning, cleaned cotton is compressed into Bales using a bale press machine for
optimum transport and storage. which must then be covered with a fabric to protect from contamination during
transportation and storage.
Bale Weight: 500 Pounds (About 225 Kg), Dimension: (1.4 × 0.53 × 0.64) m, Density: 478 kg/m3

Figure: Cotton bales

Md. Bashar Uddin, Assistant Professor, Department of Yarn Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Tejgaon, Dhaka-1208,
Bangladesh; bashar@ye.butex.edu.bd
 Introduction to Cotton and its Production Process

Problems Associated with Cotton Production

• Human health hazards - carcinogenicity, genotoxicity, etc.

Use of pesticides • Environmental hazards - contamination, greenhouse gas
emissions, climate change

• Limited data available about sustainability of GM cotton

Use of GM cotton • Available data neither support nor deny the use of GM
cotton

• Cotton production leads to climate change which in turn

affects the production.
• Contributes between 0.3 & 1% of the total green house gas
Climate change (GHG) emissions around the world.
• Cotton waste is burned which emits CO2 and other GHG to
the atmosphere

Organic Cotton Production

• Conventional cotton crops use extensive amounts of pesticides, making cotton one of the most pesticide-
dependent crops and causes environmental pollution and harm to stakeholders. Organic cotton is grown from
non-genetically modified plants without synthetic agricultural chemicals (pesticides, herbicides, or chemical
fertilizers), reducing exposure to toxic chemicals and promotes biodiversity and biological cycles.
• It supports fair trade and ethical practices, ensuring that farmers receive fair wages and working conditions.
India, China, Turkey, and Kyrgyzstan are the largest producers of organic cotton. Other countries such as the
USA, Pakistan, Brazil, Greece, Australia, Syria, Mali, and Egypt also produce organic cotton. Companies like
Nike, Walmart, and C&A include or have switched to organic cotton.

Md. Bashar Uddin, Assistant Professor, Department of Yarn Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Tejgaon, Dhaka-1208,
Bangladesh; bashar@ye.butex.edu.bd
 Introduction to Cotton and its Production Process

• Balanced ecosystem and enhanced health

• Improved economic situation & food security
• Improved access to markets
Farmers
• Training & education

• Participate in a dynamic market

• Traceability, rist & quality management
Traders & • Contribution to ecological & social sustainability
Retailers • Creditability & image

• Buy a healthy products

• Traceability, clear standards and labels
• Do good for the environment
Consumers
• Have a positive impact on producers livelihoods

Importance of cotton in global economy

• Cotton is grown on approximately 32 million hectares of land across nearly 100 countries which
constitutes roughly 35% of the global fiber output.
• In 2019, the value of cotton output was estimated at USD 46 billion, and the global trade in cotton
amounted to USD 15 billion. During the 2018/19 period, the worldwide utilization of cotton in
mills reached 26.7 million tons.
• Cotton plays a crucial role in generating income and job opportunities worldwide (100 million
families), especially in developing countries. A recent study revealed that cotton production has
played in the economic development and poverty reduction in Burkina Faso.
• In addition to its global impact, cotton holds strategic importance for several economies and serves
as a crucial component of total exports in countries such as Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and
Turkmenistan where it constitutes a significant portion of commodity exports (45%, 20%, and 15%
respectively) and contributes substantially to
their GDP (reaching 8%, 8.2%, and 4%
respectively).

Md. Bashar Uddin, Assistant Professor, Department of Yarn Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Tejgaon, Dhaka-1208,
Bangladesh; bashar@ye.butex.edu.bd