Us 1654-1 2017

US 1654-1
UGANDA STANDARD
First Edition
2017-06-20
Footwear — Specification for men’s shoes — Part 1: Closed

shoes
Reference number
US 1654-1: 2017
©
Licensed by UNBS to UGANDA PVoC PROGRAMME-TUV Rheinland Middle East FZE 4EA UNBS 2017
Order # NUMBER/Downloaded: 2019-05-23
Single-user licence only, copying and networking prohibited.
US 1654-1: 2017
Compliance with this standard does not, of itself confer immunity from legal obligations
A Uganda Standard does not purport to include all necessary provisions of a contract. Users are
responsible for its correct application
© UNBS 2017
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilised in any
form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and microfilm, without prior written
permission from UNBS.
Requests for permission to reproduce this document should be addressed to
The Executive Director

Uganda National Bureau of Standards
P.O. Box 6329
Kampala
Uganda
Tel: +256 417 333 250/1/2
Fax: +256 414 286 123
E-mail: info@unbs.go.ug
Web: www.unbs.go.ug
Licensed by UNBS to UGANDA PVoC PROGRAMME-TUV Rheinland Middle East FZE 4EA
ii © UNBS 2017 – All rights reserved
US 1654-1: 2017
Contents Page
Foreword ............................................................................................................................................................ iv
1 Scope ...................................................................................................................................................... 1
2 Normative references ............................................................................................................................ 1
3 Terms and definitions ........................................................................................................................... 3
4 Requirements ......................................................................................................................................... 3
4.1 General requirements ........................................................................................................................... 3
4.2 Material requirements ........................................................................................................................... 3
4.2.1 Uppers .................................................................................................................................................... 3
4.2.2 Upper lining ............................................................................................................................................ 6
4.2.3 Bottom/sole ............................................................................................................................................ 6
4.2.4 Heel and top piece ................................................................................................................................. 9
4.2.5 Stiffener and toe puff ............................................................................................................................ 9
4.2.6 Insole and sock .................................................................................................................................... 10
4.2.7 Whole shoe assembly ......................................................................................................................... 11
5 Workmanship and finish ..................................................................................................................... 11
5.1 Workmanship ....................................................................................................................................... 11
5.2 Trimming .............................................................................................................................................. 11
5.3 Edge trimming ..................................................................................................................................... 11
5.4 Burnishing ............................................................................................................................................ 11
5.5 Defects .................................................................................................................................................. 12
5.6 Laces..................................................................................................................................................... 12
6 Marking ................................................................................................................................................. 12
6.1 Footwear ............................................................................................................................................... 12
6.2 Carton ................................................................................................................................................... 12
6.3 Bale ....................................................................................................................................................... 12
7 Packing ................................................................................................................................................. 13
Annex A (normative) Sampling and criteria for conformity ........................................................................ 14
A.1 Scale of sampling ................................................................................................................................ 14
A.2 Method of selection ............................................................................................................................. 14
A.2.1 General ................................................................................................................................................. 14
A.2.2 Procedure ............................................................................................................................................. 14
A.3 Inspection ............................................................................................................................................. 15
Annex B (normative) Bending modulus of steel shanks for footwear ...................................................... 16
B.1 Apparatus ............................................................................................................................................. 16
B.2 Test specimen ...................................................................................................................................... 16
B.3 Procedure ............................................................................................................................................. 16
B.4 Results .................................................................................................................................................. 17
Annex C (normative) Resilience of steel shanks for footwear .................................................................. 18
C.1 Apparatus ............................................................................................................................................. 18
C.2 Test specimen ...................................................................................................................................... 18
C.3 Procedure ............................................................................................................................................. 19
C.4 Evaluation of results ........................................................................................................................... 19
Bibliography ...................................................................................................................................................... 20
© UNBS 2017 – All rights reserved iii
US 1654-1: 2017
Foreword
Uganda National Bureau of Standards (UNBS) is a parastatal under the Ministry of Trade, Industry and
Cooperatives established under Cap 327, of the Laws of Uganda, as amended. UNBS is mandated to co-
ordinate the elaboration of standards and is
(a) a member of International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) and
(b) a contact point for the WHO/FAO Codex Alimentarius Commission on Food Standards, and
(c) the National Enquiry Point on TBT Agreement of the World Trade Organisation (WTO).
The work of preparing Uganda Standards is carried out through Technical Committees. A Technical
Committee is established to deliberate on standards in a given field or area and consists of key stakeholders
including government, academia, consumer groups, private sector and other interested parties.
Draft Uganda Standards adopted by the Technical Committee are widely circulated to stakeholders and the
general public for comments. The committee reviews the comments before recommending the draft standards
for approval and declaration as Uganda Standards by the National Standards Council.
The committee responsible for this document is Technical Committee UNBS/TC 7, Textile, leather, paper and
related products, Subcommittee SC 2, Leather and related products.
iv © UNBS 2017 – All rights reserved
US 1654-1: 2017
Introduction
This standard intends to give specifications for men’s closed shoes. It will assist footwear manufacturers and
merchants in getting value for their products. In addition, it will give the general consumers of the product
bases to choose the products from an informed state.
The main purpose of this standard therefore is to provide a basis for evaluating the quality of men’s closed
shoes
© UNBS 2017 – All rights reserved v
UGANDA STANDARD US 1654-1: 2017
Footwear — Specification for men’s shoes — Part 1: Closed

shoes
1 Scope
This Uganda Standard specifies the requirements, sampling and test methods for men’s closed shoes made
from all types of materials and of all constructions and designs.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated
references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
US ISO 105-B02, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon
arc fading lamp test
US ISO 2589, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of thickness
US ISO 3376, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of tensile strength and percentage
extension
US ISO 3378, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of resistance to grain cracking and
grain crack index
US ISO 3380, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of shrinkage temperature up to 100
⁰C
US ISO 4045, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of pH
US ISO 4047, Leather — Determination of sulphated total ash and sulphated water-insoluble ash
US ISO 4048, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of matter soluble in dichloromethane and free fatty
acid content
US ISO 4098, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of water-soluble matter, water-soluble inorganic
matter and water-soluble organic matter
US ISO 4684, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of volatile matter
US ISO 5398-1, Leather — Chemical determination of chromic oxide content — Part 1: Quantification by
titration
US ISO 6942, Protective clothing — Protection against heat and fire — Method of test: Evaluation of materials
and material assemblies when exposed to a source of radiant heat
US ISO 7619-2, Rubber, vulcanized or thermoplastic — Determination of indentation hardness — Part 2:

IRHD Pocket meter method
© UNBS 2017 – All rights reserved 1
US 1654-1: 2017
US ISO 9073-2, Textiles — Test methods for nonwovens — Determination of thickness
US ISO 9407, Shoes sizes — Mondopoint system of sizing and marking
US ISO 11642, Leather — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to water
US ISO 11644, Leather — Test for adhesion of finish
US ISO 13287, Personal protective equipment — Footwear — Test method for slip resistance
US ISO 17072-2, Leather — Chemical determination of metal content — Part 2: Total metal content
US ISO 17696, Footwear — Test methods for uppers, linings and insocks — Tear strength
US ISO 17697, Footwear — Test methods for uppers, lining and insocks — Seam strength
US ISO 17699, Footwear — Test methods for uppers and lining — Water vapour permeability and absorption
US ISO 17700, Footwear — Test methods for uppers, linings and insocks — Colour fastness to rubbing
US ISO 17702, Footwear — Test methods for uppers — Water resistance
US ISO 17706, Footwear — Test methods for uppers — Tensile strength and elongation
US ISO 17707, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Flex resistance
US ISO 17708, Footwear — Test methods for whole shoe — Upper sole adhesion
US ISO 19952, Footwear — Vocabulary
US ISO 20344, Personal protective equipment — Test methods for footwear
US ISO 20865, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Compression energy
US ISO 20869, Footwear — Test method for outsoles, insoles, linings and insocks — Water-soluble content
US ISO 20871, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Abrasion resistance
US ISO 20874, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Needle tear strength
US ISO 20875, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Determination of split tear strength and
delamination resistance
US ISO 22649, Footwear — Test methods for insoles and insocks — Water absorption and desorption
US ISO 22650, Footwear — Test methods for whole shoe — Heel attachment
US ISO 22654, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Tensile strength and elongation
US 588, Footwear — Determination of accumulated impact strength of ladies’ shoe heels of height greater
than 25 mm
US 595, Footwear — Determination of bending modulus of steel shanks
US 596, Footwear — Determination of resilience of steel shanks
US 1713, Standard Test Method for Flexibility and Adhesion of finish on Leather
2 © UNBS 2017 – All rights reserved
US 1654-1: 2017
US 1714, Standard Test Method for Calculation of (Non mineral) Combined Tanning Agents and Degree of
Tannage
3 Terms and definitions

For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in US ISO 19952 and the following apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at http://www.iso.org/obp
3.1
PU coated leather
leather with a coating of polyurethane
3.2
PVC coated textiles
textiles with a coating of polyvinylchloride
3.3
synthetic materials
materials made of PU, PVC and other synthetic materials which are used as natural leather substitute
3.4
lot
footwear pairs in a consignment belonging to the same pattern/design and batch of manufactured shoes,
delivered or imported
3.5
defect
fault or failure of a footwear pair to meet the requirements of this standard
3.6
defective footwear
footwear pair with one or more defects as mentioned in this standard
4 Requirements
4.1 General requirements
The method of construction shall follow the principle applicable for that type. The sizing and fitting shall be in
accordance with the requirements of US ISO 9407.
4.2 Material requirements
4.2.1 Uppers
The uppers characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 1 when tested in accordance
with the methods specified therein.
US 1654-1: 2017
Table 1 — Upper material characteristics and requirements
Material and requirement
Characteristic Leather PU coated Textiles PU coated PVC coated EVA/MCR PU PVC Other materials Test method
leather textiles textiles (Including composite
materials)
Thickness, mm, min. 1.2 0.7 - 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.5 US ISO 2589
Tensile strength, MPa, min. 15 12 15 6 7.5 2 6 6 6 US ISO 3376
US ISO 17706
Elongation at break, %, max. 30 - 80 30 - 80 15 10 - 50 10 - 50 80 200 250 40 - 80 US ISO 3376
US ISO 17706
Tear strength, N, min. 55 55 – 28 25 20 25 30 20 US ISO 17696
Rub fastness (Greyscale),
min.
US ISO 17700
 dry 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
 wet 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
Adhesion to finish, N/cm, 1 0.8 - - - - - - - US ISO 11644
min.
Chrome content, %, max. 4 4 - - - - - - - US ISO 5398-1
Water vapour permeability, 1 1 2 2 1 2 2 1 0.8 US ISO 17699

mg/cm2  h, min.
Water vapour coefficient, 30 30 30 30 30 - 30 30 30 US ISO 20344
mg/cm2, min.
Martindale abrasion
(revolutions), min.
- 25 600 25 600 25 600 25 600 - 25 600 25 600 25 600 US ISO 20344
 dry
- 6 400 6 400 64 00 6 400 - 6 400 6 400 6 400
 wet
pH value, min. 4 4 - - - - - - - US ISO 4045
US 1654-1: 2017
Characteristic Leather PU coated Textiles PU coated PVC coated EVA/MCR PU PVC Other materials Test method
leather textiles textiles (Including composite
materials)
pH difference, max. 0.2 0.2 - - - - - - - US ISO 4045

Fat content, % m/m, min. 3 3 - - - - - - - US ISO 4048
Total ash, %, max. 5 5 - - - 0.7 - - - US ISO 4047
Total water soluble, %, max. 6 6 2 2 2 4 2 1 4 US ISO 4098
Shrinkage, %, max. 5 5 4 5 5 5 5 5 5 US ISO 3380
Light fastness, (blue wool 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 US ISO 105-B02
standards), min.
Wash fastness, (Greyscale), – – 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 US ISO 11642
min.
Key
EVA - Ethyl Vinyl Acetate, MCR - Micro Cellular Rubber, TPR - Thermoplastic Rubber, PU - Polyurathane, PVC-Polyvinyl Chloride
US 1654-1: 2017
4.2.2 Upper lining
The upper lining characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 2 when tested in
accordance with the methods specified therein.
Table 2 — Upper lining material characteristics and requirements

Characteristic Leather PVC Textile PU Test method
Thickness, mm, min. 0.6 0.5 - 0.5 US ISO 2589

US ISO 3376
Tensile strength, MPa, min. 6 5 8 5
US ISO 17706
US ISO 3376
Elongation at break, %, min. 30 250 7 200
US ISO 17706
Tear strength, N, min. 20 8 10 5 US ISO 17696
Rub fastness (Greyscale), min.

 dry 4 4 4 4 US ISO 17700
 wet 4 4 4 4
Chrome content, %, max. 3.8 - - - US ISO 5398-1
Water vapour permeability, US ISO 17699

mg/cm2  h, min.
1 2 2 1
US ISO 20344
Water vapour coefficient, mg/cm2,
30 30 30 30 US ISO 20344
min.
Martindale abrasion (revolutions),
min.
- - 4 000 - US ISO 20344
 dry
 wet - - 2 000 -
pH value, min. 4 - - - US ISO 4045
Fat content, % m/m, min. 3 - - - US ISO 4048
Total ash, %, max. 5 - - - US ISO 4047
US ISO 4098
Total water soluble, %, max. 6 1 2 1
US ISO 20869
Shrinkage, %, max. 5 - 5 - US ISO 3380
Light fastness (blue wool standards),

4 4 4 4 US ISO 105-B02
min.
4.2.3 Bottom/sole
The bottom/sole characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 3 when tested in
US 1654-1: 2017
Table 3 — Bottom/sole material characteristics and requirements
Characteristic Material and requirement
Vulcanized PVC PU TPR EVA/MCR Leather Resin Blown Blown Other materials Test method
rubber rubber PU PVC (including composite
materials)
Hardness (IRHD) 60 - 85 50 - 85 45 - 90 45 - 80 30 - 55 - 85 - 98 30 - 55 50 - 60 40 - 90 US ISO 7619-2
Tensile strength, MPa 7 6 6 5 2 20 5.5 2 6 1.5 US ISO 22654
Elongation at break, %, min.

 before ageing 300 250 200 400 80 20 - 60 120 80 100 60 - 120
US ISO 3376
 after ageing 110 500 110 US ISO 17706
Flex resistance US ISO 17707

50 000 30 000 50 000 30 000 25 000 5 000 25 000 25 000 25 000
 Initial crack (cycles), max. 50 000
600 600 600 600 800 500 800 800 800
 Cut growth at 150 000
cycles, %, max.
Compression set, %, max. 25 25 25 25 50 25 25 35 35 25 US ISO 20865
Split tear strength, N, min. 10 7.5 7.5 10 7.5 - 7.5 6.0 6.0 6.0 US ISO 20875
Stitch tear strength, N/mm, min. 70 40 35 25 55 100 50 25 25 25 US ISO 20874
Slip resistance (coefficient of 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 US ISO 13287
0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 -
friction), min.
Abrasion loss, mm3, max. 350 300 400 250 900 300 300 600 450 600 US ISO 20871
Volatility, %, max. - 2 - - - - - - 2 - US ISO 4684
Lead Pb, mg/kg, max. - 1 - - - - - - - - US ISO 17072-2
Total ash, %, max. - - - - - 3 - - - - US ISO 4047
- - - - US ISO 4098
Total water soluble, %, max. - - - - - 21
US ISO 20869
pH value, min. -
Licensed by UNBS - to UGANDA - PVoC PROGRAMME-TUV
- - 4
Rheinland Middle East FZE- 4EA - - - US ISO 4045
US 1654-1: 2017
Table 3 (continued)
Material and requirement Test method
Characteristic Vulcanized PVC PU TPR EVA/MCR Leather Resin Blown Blown Other materials
rubber rubber PU PVC (including composite
materials)
pH difference, max. - - - - - 0.7 - - - - US ISO 4045
Heat shrinkage, %, max. 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 US ISO 6942

Degree of tannage, min. - - - - - 60 - - - - US 1714
Grain cracking on mandrel 3 - - - - - No crack - - - - US ISO 3378
Key
EVA - Ethyl Vinyl Acetate, MCR - Micro Cellular Rubber, TPR - Thermoplastic Rubber, PU - Polyurathane, PVC-Polyvinyl Chloride
US 1654-1: 2017
4.2.4 Heel and top piece
The heel and top piece characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 4 when tested in
Table 4 — Heel and top piece material characteristics and requirements
Top piece Heel

Characteristic Test method
Vulcanized Resin
Leather PVC PVC TPR
rubber rubber
Hardness (IRHD) 88 – 98 - 88– 98 65 – 75 70 – 80 60 min. US ISO 7619-2
Tensile strength (MPa) 6.0 - 17 15 10 7.0 US ISO 22654
Elongation at break (%), min.

US ISO 3376
 before ageing 120 - 200 120 200 120
US ISO 17706
 after ageing 70–110 - 70 -110 70 -110
Flex resistance
US ISO 17707
Initial crack (cycles), max. 50 000 10 000 10 000 15 000 10 000 15 000
Compression set, %, max. 20 20 20 20 20 30 US ISO 20865
Slip resistance (coefficient of US ISO 13287

0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
friction), min.
Abrasion loss, mm3, max. 300 300 250 300 250 300 US ISO 20871
Volatility, %, max. - - 1 - 1 - US ISO 4684
Grain cracking on mandrel 3 - No crack - - - - US ISO 3378
Total ash, %, max. - 3 5 - 5 - US ISO 4047

US ISO 4098
Total water soluble, %, max. - 21 - - – -
US ISO 20869
Degree of tannage, %, min. - 60 - - – - US 1714
Top piece-heel attachment,
150 150 150 150 150 150 US ISO 22650
N, min.
4.2.5 Stiffener and toe puff
The stiffener and toe puff characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 5 when tested in
US 1654-1: 2017
Table 5 — Stiffener and toe puff characteristics and requirements
Requirement
Characteristic Test method
Stiffener Toe puff
Hardness (IRHD), min. 70 50 US ISO 7619-2
Flexibility (cycles), min. 50 000 50 000 US 1713
US ISO 20344
Water absorption, %, min. 25 25
US ISO 22649
Resilience, %, min. 35 35 Annex C
Thickness, mm 1.0 0.6 US ISO 9073-2
4.2.6 Insole and sock
The insole and sock characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 6 when tested in
Table 6 — Insole and sock characteristics and requirements
Requirement
Characteristic Insole Sock Test method
Leather board Paper board Leather PVC/PU
Thickness, mm, min. 1.5 1.5 1.0 0.8 US ISO 20344

Water
 absorption., %, max. 35 35 - - US ISO 20344
 desorption, %, max. 40 40 US ISO 22649
Warp flexibility (cycles), min. 15 000 15 000 - - US 1713

Shrinkage, %, max. 4 4 4 4 US ISO 3380
Split tear strength, N/mm, min. 10 10 - - US ISO 20875
Insole/sock adhesion, N/mm, min. 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 US ISO 17708
Rub fastness (Greyscale), min.
 Wet 4 4 4 4 US ISO 17700
 Dry 4 4 4 4
pH value, min. 4 4 4 - US ISO 4045

pH difference, min. 0.7 0.7 0.7 - US ISO 4045
Water vapour permeability US ISO 17699

mg/cm2  h, min.
0.8 0.8 1 -
US ISO 20344
Coefficient of water vapour
30 30 30 30 US ISO 20344
permeability g/cm2, min.
US 1654-1: 2017
4.2.7 Whole shoe assembly
The whole shoe assembly characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 7 when tested in
Table 7 — Physical requirements for the whole shoe assembly
Characteristic Requirement Test method
Sole adhesion strength, N, min.: Sole Heel

 Leather 140 250
 PVC/PU 270 360 US ISO 17708
 Rubber 140 230
 EVA/MCR 110 200
Seam strength, N/mm, min. 20 US ISO 17697
Water penetration after 5 h, max. None

US ISO 17702
Mass change, %, max. 5
Sole bond strength, N/mm, min. 4 US ISO 20344
Shank
 Accumulated impact strength, J, min. 40 US 588
 Bending modulus, N, min. 700 Annex B

US 595
 Resilience, %, min. 80 Annex C

US 596
5 Workmanship and finish
5.1 Workmanship
The footwear shall be manufactured in accordance with sound manufacturing practice.
5.2 Trimming
Unless the heel seats are of the extended type, heels shall be trimmed smooth to the heel seats.
5.3 Edge trimming
The sole edges (other than pre-moulded outer sole and heel units) shall be trimmed smooth, stitched down
construction and shall be so trimmed that the distance beyond the outside of the stitching on the flanged
portion of the upper is not less than 1.5 mm.
5.4 Burnishing
In leather footwear, the leather exposed at the sides of the heels and at the edges of the bottom shall be
stained, well waxed, set and polished.
US 1654-1: 2017
5.5 Defects
Inner soles, runners and linings shall be free from protruding grinderies, roughness and pleats inside the shoe.
5.6 Laces
Each pair of lace-up shoes shall be provided with one pair of laces
6 Marking
6.1 Footwear
6.1.1 At the waist of the sole, the size/fitting number of footwear shall be legibly and indelibly marked.
6.1.2 On the sock, the following shall be legibly and indelibly marked:
a) manufacturer’s name and/or registered trademark;
b) size/fitting number of footwear;
c) country of manufacture or origin; and
d) type of material (upper and bottom).
6.1.3 On the quarters or the tongue, the following shall be legibly and indelibly marked:
a) manufacturer’s name and/or registered trademark;
b) batch number;
c) size/fitting number of footwear; and
d) type of material (upper and bottom).
6.1.4 On either the waist of the sole, the sock or the quarter, the manufacturer’s name or registered trade
mark shall be legibly and indelibly marked.
6.2 Carton
Each box shall be legibly and indelibly marked with the following information:
a) size of footwear;
b) manufacturer’s name or registered trademark;
c) colour of footwear;
d) country of origin/manufacture; and
e) art identification number.
6.3 Bale
Each bale shall be legibly and indelibly marked with the following information:
a) name of manufacturer or local supplier’s name and/or registered trademark;

US 1654-1: 2017
b) name of product;
c) quantity;
d) net weight; and
e) country of manufacture/origin.
7 Packing
Each pair of footwear shall be wrapped in a suitable material and packed in a suitable box that will protect it
from damage during normal transportation and storage.
US 1654-1: 2017
Annex A
(normative)
Sampling and criteria for conformity
A.1 Scale of sampling

A.1.1 Samples shall be selected and examined for each lot separately for ascertaining the conformity of the
footwear to the requirements of this standard.
A.1.2 Footwear shall be considered to be of different lots if they differ in shape and design.
A.1.3 The number of footwear pairs to be selected from any lot shall depend on the size of the lot and shall
be in accordance with columns 1 and 2 of Table A.1.
Table A.1 — Scale of sampling and permissible number of defects
Number of footwear Samples for Permissible Sample size for Permissible

pairs in a lot visually observed number of laboratory number of
defects defectives testing defectives
Pairs pairs pairs pairs
(1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
Up to 50 13 0 2 0
51 to100 20 1 3 0
101 to 300 32 1 3 0
301 to 500 50 2 5 1
501 to 1 000 80 3 6 1
1 001 to 3 000 125 5 7 2
3 001 and above 200 7 8 3
A.2 Method of selection
A.2.1 General
Footwear to be selected from the lot shall be chosen at random. To ensure randomness the procedure in
A.2.2 shall be used.
A.2.2 Procedure
A.2.2.1 When the footwear pairs in a lot are not packed in a number of cases (boxes), starting from any
footwear pair in the lot, count the pairs as 1, 2, 3, …. up to r and so on in one order. Every rth pair thus
counted shall be withdrawn to constitute a sample (r is the integral part of N/n where N is the lot size and n is
the sample size). This procedure shall be stopped as soon as the required number of pairs is obtained.
US 1654-1: 2017
For example, if a sample of 125 pairs is to be selected from a lot of 3 000 pairs, compute r as equal to integral
part of 3 000/125 = 24. Starting from any pair, the footwear shall be counted in one order and every 24 th pair
shall be withdrawn.
A.2.2.2 When the footwear pairs in a lot are packed in different cases (boxes), a suitable number of
boxes (not less than 30 % of the total boxes in the lot) shall be first chosen at random. For each of the boxes
so chosen, an approximately equal number of pairs shall be picked up from its different parts so as to obtain
the required number of pairs.
For example, if a lot consists of 1 000 pairs of footwear packed in 50 boxes each containing 20 pairs, choose
more than 15 boxes at random. If it is decided to open 20 boxes, then four pairs shall be picked up from
different parts of each of the 20 boxes to give a total of 80 pairs as specified in Table A.1.
A.3 Inspection
A.3.1 All randomly selected footwear pairs (Table A.1, Column 2) shall be inspected for visually observed
defects, that is
a) difference in shape, design and colour;
b) odd pairing and incorrect size;
c) distorted shapes;
d) faulty jointing and adhesion of sole, heel, toe guard, toe cap and insole;
e) insole cut short;
f) broken stitches and incorrect stitching;
g) missing or defective eyelets/speed hooks or eyeleting/hooking;
h) variations in positioning of eyelets/speed hooks;
i) stiffener not centrally placed;
j) unfit lace;
k) finish not even and unpolished; and
l) missing or defective buckles/buckling assembly.
A.3.2 The number of defective footwear pairs shall not exceed the permissible number given in Table A.1,
Column 3. If, however, the number of defective pairs exceeds the permissible number of defectives, the lot
shall be rejected.
A.3.3 In case the lot has been found satisfactory for visually observed defects, sample pairs for laboratory
testing (Table A.1, Column 4) shall be taken from among those drawn (Table A.1, Column 2). The pairs shall
be chosen at random and tested for dimensional, physical and chemical characteristics. If the number of
defective footwear is less than or equal to the corresponding permissible number of defectives given in Table
A.1, Column 5, the lot shall be declared to have met the requirements of this standard. Otherwise if the
defective footwear pairs are more than the corresponding permissible numbers of defectives the lot shall be
rejected.
US 1654-1: 2017
Annex B
(normative)
Bending modulus of steel shanks for footwear
B.1 Apparatus
B.1.1 Tensile testing machine, capable of moving at a uniform rate of traverse of 50 mm/min (Figure B.1)
Figure B.1 — Clamping device for single pendulum ballistic tester
B.1.2 Bridge, constructed of two parallel rods A and B, both of diameter of 10 mm. The axes of the two rods
shall be 60 mm apart and held rigidly and horizontally in the tensile-strength testing machine. A third rod C
(also of diameter of 10 mm) is also fixed in the moving cross-head of the machine such that the axis of the rod
is parallel to the equidistant from the axes of the two moving rods that form the bridge.
B.2 Test specimen

The test specimen is five shanks from each batch to be tested.
B.3 Procedure
Place the shank specimen at the right angles across the two rods A and B of the bridge such that the fluting
part of the shank is towards rod C (see Figure.B.1).
Adjust the machine such that rod C is lowered until it just touches the surface of the shank. Set the machine in
motion and record the force required to bend the shank a distance of 5.0 mm.
US 1654-1: 2017
B.4 Results
Calculate the mean values of the results from five shanks and report this as the bending modulus.
US 1654-1: 2017
Annex C
(normative)
Resilience of steel shanks for footwear
C.1 Apparatus
C.1.1 Tensile-strength testing machine, equipped with a load cycling module, a charter corded and a
cross-head that is capable of moving at a uniform rate of traverse of 10 mm/min in the compressed mode. The
chart drive is set to follow upward and down ward movement of the cross-head at a speed of 500 mm/min
(Figure C.1).
Figure C.1 — Clamping device for single pendulum ballistic tester
C.1.2 Bridge, constructed of two parallel rods A and B, both of diameter of 10mm.The axes of the two rods
shall be 60mm apart and held rigidly and horizontally in the tensile-strength testing machine. A third rod C
(also of diameter of 10mm) is also fixed in the moving cross-head of the machine such that the axis of the rod
is parallel to the equidistant from the axes of the two moving rods that form the bridge.
C.2 Test specimen

The test specimen is five shanks from each batch to be tested.
US 1654-1: 2017
C.3 Procedure
C.3.1 Place the shank specimen to be tested across the two rods (of the bridge) A and B of the bridge such
that the fluting part of the shank is towards rod C (see Figure C.1)
C.3.2 Program the machine to perform a cycle as follows:
a) to increase the compressive force on the shank under test; and
b) immediately to reverse the direction of traverse at the same rate, to reduce the force to zero.
C.3.3 Set the machine to motion and allow it to perform a total of 10 cycles
C.4 Evaluation of results

Calculate the resilience as follows;
AB
Resilience, % = X 100
A
where
A is the depression of the shank during the first cycle; and
B is the depression of the shank when the force is zero after the completion of 10 cycles.
Report the average of the results from the five test specimens
US 1654-1: 2017
Bibliography
[1] MS 887: 1982 Specification for spike proof combat boots.
[2] IS 2060: 1984 Specification for gents shoes.
[3] SABS 421:1976 Specification for the production of men’s shoes (good year welted with stitched or
stuck-on outer soles).
[4] SABS 1363: 1999 Specification for young people’s shoes (stuck-on and stitch-down constructions).
[5] KS 01-679: 1989 Specification for sole leather.
[6] BATA Shoe Company specifications.
[7] KS 08-893: Part 2: 1993 Specification for upholstery fabrics  Part 2: Coated fabrics
Acknowledgement is hereby made for the assistance obtained from these sources
US 1654-1: 2017
Certification marking
Products that conform to Uganda standards may be marked with Uganda National Bureau of Standards
(UNBS) Certification Mark shown in the figure below.
The use of the UNBS Certification Mark is governed by the Standards Act, and the Regulations made
thereunder. This mark can be used only by those licensed under the certification mark scheme operated by
the Uganda National Bureau of Standards and in conjunction with the relevant Uganda Standard. The
presence of this mark on a product or in relation to a product is an assurance that the goods comply with the
requirements of that standard under a system of supervision, control and testing in accordance with the
certification mark scheme of the Uganda National Bureau of Standards. UNBS marked products are
continually checked by UNBS for conformity to that standard.
Further particulars of the terms and conditions of licensing may be obtained from the Director, Uganda
National Bureau of Standards.
US 1654-1: 2017
ICS nn.nnn.nn
Price based on nn pages
© UNBS 2017 – All rights Single-user licence only, copying and networking prohibited.
reserved

Us 1654-1 2017

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

You might also like

Us 1654-1 2017

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Us 1654-1 2017

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

US 1654-1

Footwear — Specification for men’s shoes — Part 1: Closed

Requests for permission to reproduce this document should be addressed to

The Executive Director

Footwear — Specification for men’s shoes — Part 1: Closed

US ISO 2589, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of thickness

US ISO 4045, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of pH

US ISO 4684, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of volatile matter

US ISO 7619-2, Rubber, vulcanized or thermoplastic — Determination of indentation hardness — Part 2:

US ISO 9073-2, Textiles — Test methods for nonwovens — Determination of thickness

US ISO 9407, Shoes sizes — Mondopoint system of sizing and marking

US ISO 11644, Leather — Test for adhesion of finish

US ISO 17702, Footwear — Test methods for uppers — Water resistance

US ISO 17707, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Flex resistance

US ISO 19952, Footwear — Vocabulary

US ISO 20344, Personal protective equipment — Test methods for footwear

US ISO 20865, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Compression energy

US ISO 20871, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Abrasion resistance

US 595, Footwear — Determination of bending modulus of steel shanks

US 596, Footwear — Determination of resilience of steel shanks

3 Terms and definitions

4.1 General requirements

4.2 Material requirements

Table 1 — Upper material characteristics and requirements

Material and requirement

Water vapour permeability, 1 1 2 2 1 2 2 1 0.8 US ISO 17699

Material and requirement

pH difference, max. 0.2 0.2 - - - - - - - US ISO 4045

4.2.2 Upper lining

Table 2 — Upper lining material characteristics and requirements

Material and requirement

Thickness, mm, min. 0.6 0.5 - 0.5 US ISO 2589

Tear strength, N, min. 20 8 10 5 US ISO 17696

Rub fastness (Greyscale), min.

Chrome content, %, max. 3.8 - - - US ISO 5398-1

Water vapour permeability, US ISO 17699

pH value, min. 4 - - - US ISO 4045

Fat content, % m/m, min. 3 - - - US ISO 4048

Total ash, %, max. 5 - - - US ISO 4047

Shrinkage, %, max. 5 - 5 - US ISO 3380

Light fastness (blue wool standards),

Table 3 — Bottom/sole material characteristics and requirements

Characteristic Material and requirement

Hardness (IRHD) 60 - 85 50 - 85 45 - 90 45 - 80 30 - 55 - 85 - 98 30 - 55 50 - 60 40 - 90 US ISO 7619-2

Tensile strength, MPa 7 6 6 5 2 20 5.5 2 6 1.5 US ISO 22654

Elongation at break, %, min.

 after ageing 110 500 110 US ISO 17706

Flex resistance US ISO 17707

Compression set, %, max. 25 25 25 25 50 25 25 35 35 25 US ISO 20865

Material and requirement Test method

pH difference, max. - - - - - 0.7 - - - - US ISO 4045

Heat shrinkage, %, max. 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 US ISO 6942

4.2.4 Heel and top piece

Table 4 — Heel and top piece material characteristics and requirements

Material and requirement

Top piece Heel

Hardness (IRHD) 88 – 98 - 88– 98 65 – 75 70 – 80 60 min. US ISO 7619-2