Introduction to Chemical Finishing

Md. Sherazul Islam

Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering
Green University of Bangladesh
Textile Finishing
Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different processes that the textile material

undergoes after pre-treatment (singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching), dyeing or printing to enhance

their attractiveness and sale appeal as well as comfort and usefulness.

But in broad sense, finishing covers all the processes which the fabric undergoes after leaving loom or

knitting machines to the stage at which it enters the market. Thus the term includes bleaching, dyeing

etc.
Classification of Textile Finishing
Classification of finishing according to process type –

Mechanical Finishing: Mechanical finishes are given by mechanical arrangements like drying

cylinders or on a stenter to a complicated series of calendaring operations.

Example – Calendaring, embossing, raising, beetling, shearing process etc.

Chemical Finishing: Chemical finishing refers to the use of chemicals to achieve a desired end-use

property.

Example – Resin finish, water proof finish, flame proof finish etc.
Chemical Finishing
Chemical finishing can be defined as the use of chemicals to achieve a desired fabric property.

Chemical finishing, also referred to as ‘wet’ finishing, includes processes that change the chemical

composition of the fabrics that they are applied.

Factors to be Considered During Chemical Finishing

 The type of textile (fibre composition of the fabric and its construction)

 The performance requirements (extent of effect and durability)

 The economics of the formulation

 Availability of machinery

 Environmental consideration

 Compatibility and interactions of finishing components.

Requirements of Chemical Finishes

 Low-cost product and process

 Stable during storage and application in terms of pH, temperature and mechanical stress

 Compatible with other finishes

 Suitable for all kind of fibres and all textile forms such as yarn, woven or knit fabric,

garment, nonwovens, etc.

 Satisfactory stability during washing and dry cleaning

Requirements of Chemical Finishes

 Should not hamper important textile qualities

 No yellowing of white goods or color change of dyed goods.

 Easy correction of finishing faults

 Non toxic and ecofriendly

 No release of volatile organic compounds

 Biodegradable
Different Types of Chemical Finishing

 Softening Finish

 Crease Resistant Finish

 Water Repellent Finish

 Anti static Finish

 Soil Release Finish

Different Types of Chemical Finishing

 Fire Retardant Finish

 Anti-microbial Finish

 Mercerization

 Bio polishing
Softening Finish

Softener is an finishing agent that when applied to textile material improves its handle giving pleasing

touch. As a general rule, the softening agents applied are lubricating agents, which facilitate the fiber

sliding within the fabric structure, thus granting easier deformation and creasing of the fabric.

 Anionic Softener

 Cationic Softener

 Non ionic Softener

 Silicone Softener etc.

Crease Resistant Finish

The process of apply resins so that they cross link in the amorphous region and block free hydroxyl

groups, thus preventing the hydrogen bond formation and improving the crease - recovery angle (in

case of cellulose) is called resin finishing or crease resistant finish.

 Urea Formaldehyde

 Dimethylol Urea (DMU)

 Dimethylol Ethylene Urea (DMEU)

 Dimethylol Dihydroxy Ethylene Urea (DMDHEU)

Water Repellent Finish

Water-repellent finishes are surface finishes imparting some degree of resistance to water but are more

comfortable to wear because the fabric pores remain open. Such finishes include wax and resin

mixtures, aluminum salts, silicones, and fluoro chemicals.

Anti Static Finish

Used for the removal in synthetic fibres of the unwanted effects of electrostatic charge produced

during production and wear of fabrics & knits. A build-up of static electricity on a fibre is undesirable

because of its adhesive power, it will cause the fibre to attract dirt particles more readily and thus to

soil more quickly. Garments that become charged with static electricity are discomfort during wear.

 Hydrophilic silicon based softener, antistatic agent

Soil Release Finish

This type of finish may be described as the ability of a treated textile to shed soil during washing

process. During the laundry of a textile the fabric is wetted with the cleaning solution. Any treatment

which encourages the wetting of textile material, acts as soil release agent. Treatments include

polymers containing hydrophilic groups, which are deposited on the fibre surface.
Fire Retardant Finish

A fabric can be considered flame resistant if it does not burn or does not continue to burn when

subjected to a flame or heat source, with or without removal of the source. A chemical applied to a

fabric to impart flame resistance is called a flame retardant.

 Type of fiber

 Yarn structure

 Fabric structure, and

 Chemicals / coatings applied on the fabric.

Anti Microbial Finish

An antibacterial surface contains an antibacterial agent that opposes the ability of micro-organisms to

grow on textile materials.

Anti-bacterial Agent: Product is design to resists the growth or to kill the bacteria.

Anti-Bacterial Finish: Treatment designs to prevent the growth of bacteria to reduce the number of

bacteria or to kill bacteria.

Mercerization
Mercerization is a physio-chemical process where cotton fabric is treated with 15-25% caustic soda

solution at a temperature of 20-30℃. It is necessary to hold the material under tension. Also, washing

should be done under tension

 Concentration of NaOH

 Temperature

 Tension of fabric

 Time
Bio Polishing

It removes the protruding fibres of a fabric through the action of an enzyme.

This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibres and easy to remove after finishing by raising the

treatment bath temperature.

 Cellulase Enzyme

 pH

 Temperature

 Time