DUEPPEN Stephen, GALLAGHER Daphne - Alcohol, Ancestors, and The House. Exploring Ritual Use of Beer at Kirikongo, Burkina Faso - JAA 64, 2021

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Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64 (2021) 101353

Contents lists available at ScienceDirect

Journal of Anthropological Archaeology


journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/jaa

Alcohol, ancestors, and the house: Exploring ritual use of beer at Kirikongo,
Burkina Faso
Stephen A. Dueppen a, *, Daphne Gallagher b
a
Department of Anthropology, University of Oregon, 1218 University of Oregon, Eugene, OR 97403, United States
b
Robert D. Clark Honors College, University of Oregon, 1293 University of Oregon, Eugene, OR 97403, United States

A R T I C L E I N F O A B S T R A C T

Keywords: This paper explores the evidence for beer production, consumption, and ritual use at Kirikongo (100–1650 CE), a
Sorghum beer well-preserved archaeological site located in Mouhoun Province, western Burkina Faso. The site is comprised of
Dolo thirteen anthropogenic mounds (tells) that were formed through sequential ritual processes that created ancestor
West Africa
shrines through either construction of dedicated mortuary monuments or transformation of domestic spaces and
Kirikongo
Ancestors
buildings. Tombs and architectural emplacements were accompanied by discrete accumulations of fauna,
Ritual botanical remains, and material culture, the latter of which likely represents personal or familial belongings.
Within these ceramic assemblages, there are significant numbers of small highly decorated consumption vessels,
tri-pod ritual vessels likely connected to use of liquids, and large vessels consistent with beer production. Based
upon contextual analysis of ceramics, cultural practices related to ancestors, and evidence from a destroyed ritual
complex with intact material culture and ritualized use of sorghum, this paper argues that beer was likely used at
Kirikongo both in the social life of the community and in rituals related to ancestors. The nature of sorghum beer
production may have influenced the overall absence of sorghum in macrobotanical samples.

1. Introduction political aspects of production and consumption, use in religious prac­


tices, and impact on individual and group experiences (e.g., Arthur,
Beer is a central component of social and ritual events in many parts 2012; Braidwood et al., 1953; Dietler 2006; Dietrich et al. 2012; Guerra-
of ethnohistoric central West Africa, cementing relations of mutuality Doce 2015; Insoll et al. 2012; Jennings et al. 2005; Joffe 1998; Liu 2021;
between individuals within families, Houses and the greater region McGovern 2009; Paulette 2021; Rojo-Guerra et al. 2006; Wang et al.
(Akyeampong, 1996; Belliard 2001; Lentz 1999; Lobnibe 2018; Manessy 2021; Williams and Nash 2021). This research has resulted in innovative
1960; Şaul 1981). In Burkina Faso, beer is primarily made from sorghum ways to identify the production process and contexts and nature of
(Sorghum bicolor), and its labor-intensive production involves multiple consumption (e.g., Heiss et al. 2020; McGovern 2009; Stika 1996; Wang
stages from the initial treatment of the grains through the fermentation et al. 2017). West African case studies have the potential to make sig­
of the malted liquid (Belliard 2001; Manessy 1960; Şaul 1981; Songre- nificant contributions to these comparative discussions.
Ouattara et al. 2016). Beer brewing is economically significant and In this paper we explore the deep histories of alcohol in the region
has been a major component of women’s wealth in the region, with some through an analysis of the evidence for brewing and alcohol consump­
women earning a small supplemental income and others creating larger tion at the long lived community of Kirikongo, Burkina Faso, inhabited
scale production facilities and distribution networks (Belliard 2001; from the second to the seventeenth centuries CE. From archaeological
Kayodé et al. 2007; Manessy 1960; Palé 2012; Şaul 1981). Consumption data, beer was likely a key component for the negotiation of identities
occurs in both domestic and public spaces and in settings that range within the living community and with the ancestors throughout the
from highly ritualized to casual social gatherings (Capron 1973, Şaul site’s occupation. Consumption vessels were valued possessions that
1981). were essential items for inclusion in mortuary deposits and liquids
Globally, archaeologists have long emphasized the social and ritual including beer may have been incorporated into sacrificial meals. As a
dimensions of alcohol. Studies have explored the role of alcohol in foundation for exploring the relationships between material culture,
contexts including the initial domestication of grain, the social and liquids, and funerary ritual at the site, we model the visibility of beer

* Corresponding author.
E-mail addresses: dueppen@uoregon.edu (S.A. Dueppen), daphne@uoregon.edu (D. Gallagher).

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaa.2021.101353
Received 1 March 2021; Received in revised form 29 August 2021;
Available online 9 September 2021
0278-4165/© 2021 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
S.A. Dueppen and D. Gallagher Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64 (2021) 101353

production and consumption at the site and suggest that sorghum may (Kayodé et al. 2007; Şaul 1981). Like with shea butter production, beer
be systematically underrepresented in the carbonized plant assemblage brewing enables women to earn an independent income and plays a
due to its use in beer production. significant role in local economies.
Red sorghum is by far the most common grain used for beer in local
2. Archaeological indicators of beer production and communities and often the only grain specifically cultivated for beer
consumption in central West Africa production (Kayodé et al. 2005; Manessy 1960; Palé et al. 2010; Şaul
1981; Songre-Ouattara et al. 2016). In comparison, in most areas white
In ethnohistoric western Burkina Faso, the primary locally produced sorghum tends to be used for beer as a substitute or when there is surplus
and consumed alcoholic beverages are beers made from red sorghum grain that is not needed for food and in larger industries where red
(Manessy 1960; Songre-Ouattara et al. 2016). Beers may also be pro­ sorghum would be more expensive. As will be discussed below, it is
duced from white sorghum and pearl millet (Pennisetum glaucum), and possible that pearl millet was used for beer more frequently in the past.
beer made from fonio (Digitaria exilis) is known from surrounding re­ Investment in beer production therefore starts with the cultivation of red
gions but not widely documented in western Burkina Faso (Burkill 1994; sorghum varieties that have been developed over time to have many
Kayodé et al. 2005). Aside from grain-based alcoholic beverages, mead qualities favorable to beer production (Kayodé et al 2005; 2007; Songre-
and diverse fermented fruit wines (including those made from Diospyros Ouattara et al. 2016). The importance of beer is indicated by the fact that
mespiliformis, Grewia spp., and Sclerocarya birrea) are also manufactured, red sorghum tends to be grown in the closer gardens immediately sur­
along with fermented foods such as soumbala (Parkia biglobosa) (Burkill rounding houses and settlements that receive extensive animal manure
1985; 1994; 1995; 1997; 2000; Manessy 1960). Palm wine is imported fertilizer and is more rarely grown in the more distant fields where the
into Burkina Faso from the south, a practice that may have significant majority of the pearl millet and white sorghum for the staple food dishes
antiquity. Since the late nineteenth century these have been joined by are grown. Fertilization has been shown to improve the quality of the
imported grape wine, distilled spirits, and initially imported European grains themselves and result in better beer (Palé 2012).
(barley/wheat) beer that is produced commercially in Burkina Faso Production of sorghum beer typically takes eight to ten days (Belliard
today. 2001; Kayodé et al. 2007; Manessy 1960). Beer is often produced in
In this section, we summarize the production process as documented batches of more than 100 L and two classes of pots are commonly used:
in the ethnohistoric record from the twentieth and twenty-first centuries large jars for boiling and large open-rimmed basins referred to as
for the most commonly produced alcohol in central West Africa, sor­ brewers (Fig. 1). Boiling jars may be combined together with clay into
ghum beer (known regionally as dolo, pito, nâmu, or tchoukoutou among permanent installations and brewers are often inset into the ground in
many other names). While we do not expect beer production and con­ sets to keep them stable. The brewing infrastructure requires significant
sumption at Kirikongo to mirror the present-day or recent past, under­ investment and each batch necessitates the use of substantial quantities
standing the steps and requirements of the process provides insights of grain, water, and fuel. Access to sufficient water or the labor required
relevant to the analysis of the archaeological record. to carry it to the production area is often described as a limiting factor in
production (e.g., Şaul 1981).
2.1. Beer production in ethnohistoric central West Africa Regardless of the scale of production, the stages are fairly similar
throughout the region (Abdoul-latif et al. 2013; Belliard 2001; Kayodé
Beer production and its consumption is an important component of et al. 2007; Konfo et al. 2015; Lyumugabe et al. 2012; Manessy 1960).
the complex social and ritual lives of many communities in central West The first step in beer production is germination of the sorghum grains.
Africa and is central to the formation of both shared and individual Grains are soaked then either placed in a jar or laid out on a surface of
relational identities. Beer is most easily produced in large batches and pure ash (which protects them from insects), where they are successively
spoils quickly. Consequently, it tends to be produced for and consumed wetted and dried until they sprout, which usually takes a little over a
in social contexts that connect families, multi-family Houses (social week. Once germinated, grains are dried in the sun and then may be
units), settlement communities, and regions. Common events where stored. The brewing process itself typically takes two days and begins
beer is served can include feasts connected to initiations, marriages and with grinding the malted red sorghum grains into coarse particulates.
funerals as well as market days, when people from multiple communities The ground, malted grain is mixed with water in a large, open vessel
often gather (Abasi 1995; Bicaba 1975; Capron 1973; Manessy 1960; (brewer), and in some cases an additive such as the mucilage from the
Şaul 1981). Ritual practice in the region is typically centered on sacri­ leaves of okra (Hibiscus esculentus), kapok (Bombax costatum) or baobab
fices (Cartry 1976; Cremer 1924; 1927; Dawson 2009; Fortes 1987; (Adansonia digitata) may be included (Abdoul-latif et al. 2013; Belliard
Goody 1962; Insoll 2010; 2011; Insoll et al. 2013; Kaboré 2018; Saako 2001; Konfo et al. 2015; Manessy 1960). The solution is then moved to
et al. 2014). Sacrifice and meals of co-presence between humans, an­ the boiling installation and boiled for an hour before letting it cool. Once
cestors, or divinities create or maintain attachments together at ritual cool, the beer is filtered (usually through a basket) into the brewer to
emplacements (shrines) (see discussion in Dueppen 2022). Beer is one of remove the grains and the now clear liquid is then returned to the
several substances that are poured during these rituals, but also a potent cooking installation to be boiled for four to eight more hours, a process
substance that can be used to clean shrines to enable new sacrificial that requires a large amount of fuel (Ouédraogo and Point, 2015 esti­
attachments (e.g., Goody 1962). Beer, along with water and blood from mate over 450 kg of firewood for a single batch). The beer is returned to
sacrificed domestic animals, has an ability to seep into the earth, which the freshly cleaned brewers to cool further and at that time a small
can be considered a vital place due to ancestral or other divine presence, portion is set aside in a smaller bowl. Yeast is added to this smaller
depending on the shrine. Beer then, is an important element of a com­ portion to begin the fermentation process and, once the liquids are fully
plex diversified social and ritual life, and is not only part of celebrations cool, the small quantity is added into the large brewer. The yeast works
and feasts within the living community, but also the meals that occur overnight and in the morning the yeast is removed and the beer is ready
with emplaced ancestors and divinities. for consumption. The beer will spoil quickly and is best if consumed the
Beer brewing requires a significant labor investment and, particu­ same day, although it can potentially last up to three days (Konfo et al.
larly given the large quantities typically produced, is often only made for 2015).
special events in smaller communities. In contrast, in larger settlements,
where marriages and other events tend to be more common, beer can be 2.2. Modelling the archaeological visibility of beer in central West Africa
more widely available. From at least the twentieth century onward,
women in larger communities have specialized in producing sorghum Beer is generally identified in the archaeological record through
beer for both special social and ritual events as well as for market days residue analyses, archaeobotanical analyses, or proxy identification of

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S.A. Dueppen and D. Gallagher Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64 (2021) 101353

Fig. 1. Brewing installation photographed in 2011 in the community of Tora, Mouhoun Province, Burkina Faso.

beer-making equipment and facilities or feasting activities at which beer extremely heavy. Their thick walls and coarse fabric allow the contents
is consumed (e.g., Dietler 2006; Jennings et al. 2005; Liu 2021; to breathe and assist in speeding in the cooling process. As mentioned
McGovern 2009; Samuel 1996; Stika 1996). above, the open mouths of brewers enable the filtering of the liquid on
The clearest archaeobotanical evidence of beer production is in the the interior, provide ease of access for agitation during soaking and
form of malted grains, which are rarely recovered. Not only are malted cleaning prior to brewing, and create a large surface area to promote
grains less likely to carbonize, but the researcher must also establish that fermentation. A smaller open bowl may also be employed for the yeast
the sprouting is the result of the malting process (Stika 1996). Globally, starter, and while today, calabashes are often used to transfer the liquid
examples of malted Triticeae (einkorn, emmer, and barley) have typi­ between brewing and cooking vessels, ceramic vessels could have been
cally been recovered from contexts where catastrophic burning occurred used for that purpose in the past.
(e.g., Valamoti 2018), or areas such as northern Europe where heat from Calabashes (sometimes highly decorated) tend to be used for drink­
ovens rather than the sun was used to promote and halt the germination ing beer and water (Şaul 1981; Lentz 1999; Lobnibe 2018), although
process (e.g., Larsson et al. 2019; Stika 1996). In West Africa, there are ceramic canteens are preferred in some areas for drinking water when
to date no published examples of malted sorghum or pearl millet as­ away from the settlement as they breathe and keep water cool. Cala­
semblages. Given that grain malting in central West Africa typically bashes may be highly decorated and can be visible expressions of
happens away from a heat source and grains are sundried, carbonized identity, however they do not preserve archaeologically. As will be
malted grains are only likely to occur in very rare circumstances even if discussed below, archaeological ceramic assemblages include a signifi­
beer was frequently made. cantly wider range of vessel types, and alcohol consumption and pouring
Malted grains are ground prior to being placed in pots for boiling and of libations must be considered as a possible function of small serving
once boiled, the softened remnants are strained from the beer and dis­ cups, bowls, and footed vessels. Elaborate decoration and footed forms
carded. These broken and softened grains are likewise rarely identified may be indicators of important vessels used in social events and/or in
archaeologically, although carbonized examples of Triticeae mashes ritual processes.
have been recovered from the interior of brewing vats in Egypt and Although residue analysis has been rarely attempted at West African
elsewhere (Attia et al. 2018; Valamoti 2018). Efforts have been made to sites, research elsewhere in the world has demonstrated that the use of
develop identification criteria for mash at the microscopic level (Heiss specialized pots for boiling and fermenting beer could potentially be
et al. 2020). Beer additives may also be identified in the archae­ identified through diverse residue analyses (e.g., McGovern et al., 2015;
obotanical record, but in the central West African context these pri­ Michel et al., 1992; Perruchini et al. 2018; Wang et al. 2017; Wang et al.
marily take the form of crushed leaves and mucilages that are unlikely to 2021). While many indicators do not preserve well in tropical environ­
carbonize. ments, aDNA has been successfully recovered from the deep cavities in
As described above, the soaking, cooking, and brewing processes for the sixth to fourteenth century CE ritual Koma figurines in northern
sorghum beer primarily involves two types of large vessels: cooking Ghana. While alcohol/fermentation was not confirmed, evidence of
vessels for boiling and brewers, where soaking and fermentation occur. plant taxa commonly associated with fermented beverages (grasses,
Where ceramic pots are used for boiling, cooking vessels are typically plantain/banana) was recovered (Robinson et al. 2017). Residue anal­
jars with a slightly restricted neck and an outturned flared rim. Their ysis is a promising avenue for future research.
mouths are open for ease of access and ethnohistorically, they are often
larger than other cooking vessels due to the volumes of liquid involved 3. The tells of Kirikongo: emplaced ancestors and changing
(although they may be used to cook large batches of the staple millet identities
porridge). Due to their size, the cooking vessels are often incorporated
into raised earthen brick structures that elevate them above the cooking Well-preserved archaeological features and assemblages such as
fires. In contrast, brewers are often open, unrestricted vessels with those found at the site of Kirikongo facilitate the investigation of the
simple rims that are also frequently set in installations as they are social and ritual contexts of alcohol production and consumption.

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S.A. Dueppen and D. Gallagher Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64 (2021) 101353

Kirikongo is large cluster of thirteen house mounds (tells) accompanied • Mortuary monuments for group or individual tombs. These frequently
by metallurgical production zones, plazas, iron and laterite mines and have low-walled (partial) structures atop and are accompanied by
water wells extending over at least a 37.5 ha. area in the Mouhoun Bend fauna and material culture in a pit or concavity separate from the
region of western Burkina Faso (Fig. 2, Fig. 3). During fieldwork in 2004 burial.
and 2005/6, the project excavated five mounds and a metallurgical • Domestic architecture converted to mortuary monuments. Burials were
production zone to sterile basement, shovel-tested plazas, documented cut through house or courtyard pavement floors, wall foundations
the profiles of three mounds cut through by a road, systematically sur­ were retained, and accumulations of fauna and material culture
face collected all mounds and features, and mapped the site in detail. fragments were deposited adjacent, often in shallow depressions.
Excavations uncovered intact stratified deposits with extensive standing • Ritual accumulations of fauna and material culture in pits or shallow
architecture and well preserved material culture, animal bone and depressions. These appeared to mark significant events such as the
botanical remains in discrete concentrations (see overviews in Dueppen construction of a new structure or the catastrophic burning of a
2012a; 2012b; 2022; Dueppen and Gallagher 2016). Two architecturally structure.
defined phases with six ceramic-based sub-phases have been identified
that cover the first 1400 years of occupation at the site. Named after the Dueppen (2022) has established that the discrete assemblages of
distinctive colors of the deposits, the Yellow Phase (I and II) is defined by fauna and material culture included in these features were intentionally
circular coursed earthen architecture with pounded clay and pebble emplaced as ritual offerings, as evidenced by the repeated patterning of
floors and the Red Phase (I, II, III, IV) is defined by a mix of circular animal taxa and parts, the systematic incorporation of single pieces of
coursed earthen and earthen brick architecture with bright red pounded diverse broken objects, and the high preservation levels of the included
laterite pavements (Dueppen 2012a; 2022; Dueppen and Gallagher material (e.g., limited rodent or carnivore gnawing on animal bones or
2016). A total of 36 AMS dates on charcoal, seeds and animal bone erosion on the edges of sherds). Their composition and characteristics
indicate that Kirikongo was occupied from the second to the seventeenth contrast with those of remains recovered from abandonment and
century CE (Table 1, Dueppen 2022), although initial occupation could destruction layers, as well as the midden deposits of the mound talus
be earlier as dates are not available from the deepest 50 cm of cultural slopes (see Dueppen 2022 for a detailed discussion).
deposits. The relative (architectural and material culture) and absolute These temporally-discrete, remarkably intact deposits of well-
sequences (AMS) have been initially confirmed at the regional level preserved materials provide insights into both daily life and ritual
during a subsequent 2011 survey and excavation project. practice at Kirikongo. Dueppen (2022) argues that the tells of Kirikongo
The mounds at Kirikongo are composed of layered architecture and formed primarily as part of complex mortuary activities rooted in local
features which can be divided into over 50 discrete contexts across four beliefs related to relations between human souls, material culture,
excavation units at mounds occupied prior to 1500 CE (Dueppen 2012a; substances, divinities and places. Ancestors were a central feature of
2022). In a few cases, contexts were catastrophically burned or were religious practice and played a role in the living community. However in
abandoned and architectural collapse debris filled spaces prior to being order to properly transition individuals from life to ancestral status,
leveled and rebuilt. However, for most contexts intentional ritual action souls needed to be detached from connections to the world of the living
led to the accumulation of cultural deposits. These contexts included: (through breaking associated material culture), and emplaced

Fig. 2. Map of West Africa showing the location of Kirikongo.

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S.A. Dueppen and D. Gallagher Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64 (2021) 101353

Fig. 3. Left: Map of Kirikongo showing the location of excavations. Right: Changes in occupied area at the site through 1500 CE.

chicken), hunted and fished, produced their own pottery and ground
Table 1
stone tools, and smelted iron in a metallurgical zone near a seasonal
Associated dates for Kirikongo occupation phases (see
drainage to the west (Dueppen, 2012a, 2015, 2019a, 2022) (Fig. 3). For
Dueppen 2022 for individual AMS dates).
several hundred years, this House existed as a self-sufficient homestead
PHASE DATES
as part of a social landscape of similar dispersed multi-family Houses in
Yellow I 100–500/550 CE the Mouhoun Bend region. By the fourth or fifth century CE, the House
Yellow II 500/550–700/750 CE at Mound 4 was joined by a second economically self-sufficient House
Red I 700/750–1025 CE
150 m to the north at Mound 1. This new House had its own metallur­
Red II 1025–1200 CE
Red III 1200–1400 CE gical production area to the west and produced its own pottery.
Red IV 1400–1500 CE In the sixth or seventh century CE, as the community grew, the
founding House began to centralize control, beginning with the cooption
of metallurgical production. House potting traditions diverged, perhaps
(attached) in tombs (ancestor shrines) within the community through reflecting an increased emphasis on house identity, and the founding
incorporation of representative fragments, in order to re-connect them house reinforced its special status with the creation of a new cemetery
in their new status with the living community. In addition to fragmented (Mound 3) for their dead (Dueppen, 2012a, 2015, 2019a; 2022).
material culture, likely from life assemblages, these rituals incorporated Centralization increased over the next several hundred years as new
the parts of wild and sacrificed domestic animals in patterns that suggest Houses clustered around Mound 4, creating a circular settlement. By 750
households maintained distinct associations with particular divinities. CE, cattle were associated exclusively with the founding house, and by
Over the lengthy occupation of the site, the nature of rituals and asso­ 900 CE a two-story ritual complex had been constructed to the imme­
ciations changed several times while maintaining consistency in certain diate west of a large residential compound at Mound 4 directly atop a
practices and associations. sequence of tombs and ritual depositions that started in 100 CE. In the
early second millennium CE, the dedicated cemetery (Mound 3) con­
3.1. Social history of Kirikongo tained elaborate tombs for children that included cattle remains and
imported cowrie shells (Dueppen, 2012a, 2022).
Kirikongo was established at Mound 4 in the early first millennium In the mid-twelfth century CE a series of fundamental trans­
CE by an economically generalized farming House that cultivated do­ formations occurred at Kirikongo as part of a shift to a more
mestic crops (millet and fonio), kept domestic animals (goat, cattle, dog,

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S.A. Dueppen and D. Gallagher Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64 (2021) 101353

decentralized community (Dueppen 2012a, 2012b, 2019a, 2019b, 4.1. Archaeobotanical evidence for beer production
2022). No new interments occurred in the cemetery, cattle-keeping
ceased completely, and closed architectural compounds became more Macrobotanical analyses from Kirikongo are in process, with sorting
open room blocks with activities previously on the interior shifting to and seed and fruit identifications completed for two-thirds of the 241
the exterior. Perhaps most significantly, potting became specialized and flotation samples collected. Seeds and fruits from Unit A at Mound 1
for the first time since the fourth or fifth century CE all residents used the have been completely analyzed (Gallagher and Dueppen 2019) while
same ceramics. A kiln complex was constructed on a previously aban­ those from other excavation units are in progress. Identified taxa to date
doned mound (Mound 11) at the northern edge of the site where include the domesticated grains fonio, pearl millet, and sorghum; useful
metallurgical production debris was also identified suggesting that wild trees such as shea (Vitellaria paradoxa), marula (Sclerocarya birrea),
potting and iron-working became linked as they commonly have been in and baobab (Adansonia digitata); diverse small-seeded wild grasses
the region ethnohistorically. These movements towards a more collec­ (including Paniceae); and ruderal herbs (Gallagher et al. 2016; Gal­
tive and communal community with interdependent farmers and pyro­ lagher and Dueppen 2019).
technic specialists were accompanied by significant population growth. One of the most interesting early results is the disparity between the
Despite these changes, the ritual complex at Mound 4 remained active, regular identification of pearl millet and fonio in the archaeobotanical
suggesting continual significance for ancestral rituals associated with assemblage and the very rare occurrence of sorghum. For example, in
community founders. The several hundred year old complex was Unit A, no sorghum was identified but pearl millet was present in 16% of
destroyed by fire in the late thirteenth century CE, rebuilt, and then samples and fonio in 27% (Gallagher and Dueppen 2019). Domesticated
burned again shortly thereafter (Dueppen 2012a; 2022; Dueppen and sorghum is distinctive in archaeobotanical assemblages in the region
Gallagher 2016). and is not typically confused with other taxa. While pearl millet occurs
Kirikongo’s population decreased significantly and rapidly in the in all units and all phases of occupation at the site, sorghum has to date
second half of the fourteenth century, likely as a result of plague only been identified conclusively in Unit B, where a complete sorghum
(Dueppen and Gallagher 2016; Gallagher and Dueppen 2018). By the seedhead was carbonized during the burning of the ritual complex
start of the fifteenth century, only the founding House (Mound 4), during Red III. The likely underrepresentation of sorghum in the
Mound 1, and a diminished specialist occupation at Mound 11 remained, archaeobotanical assemblage relative to its cultivation and dietary role
and Mound 1 would be abandoned only a few decades later. Data from is not unique to Kirikongo, as a similar pattern occurs at sites in other
excavations during the plague era indicate that deposits formed very areas of West Africa where sorghum would be expected to be a thriving
quickly, as houses were converted to tomb emplacements for ancestors, crop (e.g., Champion and Fuller 2018; Gallagher et al. 2018; Huysecom
and there was a significant decrease in decoration and care in the pro­ et al. 2015; Logan 2012).
duction of ceramics and other material culture, perhaps reflecting labor While challenging to argue from absence, it is intriguing that sor­
challenges (Dueppen 2022; Dueppen and Gallagher 2016). ghum was significant enough at Kirikongo to be the only grain hanging
The post plague era was a time of significant cultural changes at in the roof of the ritual complex when it burned yet only carbonized as
Kirikongo (Dueppen 2022; Dueppen and Gallagher 2016). Ceramic part of this unusual event. This could suggest that sorghum at Kirikongo
forms and decoration of the locally produced pottery developed simi­ may have followed different preparation pathways than pearl millet or
larities to pottery from neighboring parts of Mali, perhaps due to the fonio that resulted in fewer opportunities for carbonization. Ethno­
influence of diasporic Mande traders moving into the region. There is historically, both pearl millet and sorghum are used to make similar
evidence for investment in new industries commonly associated with foods, notably the staple porridge dish tô. The most likely source of
interregional trading, including leather tanning, weaving and dyeing of differentiation in their preparation pathway would be the preferential
cotton cloth, and the hunting and processing of animals for products use of sorghum for beer production. The first step of soaking the grain to
such as pelts, teeth, feathers, and ivory. Ancestral veneration at the begin the malting process as well as the germination itself may have
cemetery associated with Mound 4 ceased. lowered the chances of carbonization if grains did come into contact
Analyses of sixteenth century deposits are still in their preliminary with heat. If sorghum was used primarily for beer production and this
stages. However, indications are that the occupation at Kirikongo shifted practice significantly affected its opportunities for carbonization, we
to the eastern edge of the site to three newly founded mounds which must consider that sorghum may have been in use throughout much or
include both domestic spaces and the site of what local oral histories all of the site’s occupation history despite the fact that to date it has not
identify as a mosque (occasional prayers take place there today). Given been identified in the archaeobotanical assemblage prior to Red III.
the trajectory of change at Mound 4 directly prior to the founding of
these mounds, it is likely that the founding house converted to Islam and 4.2. The material culture of beer production and consumption at
moved to the east while remaining in the same settlement. Kirikongo

4. Beer at Kirikongo The diverse, well-contextualized ceramic assemblage at Kirikongo


includes strong evidence for beer production and consumption.
Beer was likely produced and consumed at Kirikongo throughout Assigning specific functions to vessels in archaeological sites is difficult.
most of its occupation. Although direct evidence of alcohol residues, However, the robust research literature on pottery production in central
grain malting, or an intact brewing installation has yet to be recovered, West Africa over the past century provides a strong interpretive frame­
the rich ceramic assemblage includes an assortment of brewing and work for understanding functional tendencies in vessel form within the
consumption or libation vessels. As described above, although some region (Banaon 1990; Frank 1998; Gallay and Huysecom 1989; Gosse­
ceramics from Kirikongo excavations are from midden or abandonment lain 2000; 2008; 2011; LaViolette 2000; Manessy 1960; Mayor 2011;
contexts, most were part of intentional accumulations of fragments McIntosh 1995; Roy 1987; 1989; 2000; 2003). Although individual
associated with funerary or ancestral ritual activity. From current data it vessels may be produced or simply expediently used for a diverse set of
is clear that material culture related to fermented beverage production purposes, in general potters and consumers make choices regarding the
and liquid consumption/pouring were common in the lives of in­ form and decoration of pots that align with ranges of intended uses.
dividuals and social groups at Kirikongo and also played a role in their These choices are grounded in tradition, personal preference, and
transference to ancestral roles in the community as fundamental com­ knowledge of the physical and technological properties of vessel forms.
ponents of material assemblages. In the case of beer, as described above, large cooking and brewing
vessels are ethnohistorically used for the different stages of production.
While beer production processes have likely been refined and altered

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S.A. Dueppen and D. Gallagher Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64 (2021) 101353

over time, vessels that meet the basic technological requirements (large decorations, making them difficult to distinguish unless they are com­
vessels, open mouths, etc.) are identifiable in the archaeological plete or near-complete examples. In contrast, large jars used for liquid
assemblage. Consumption and pouring vessels are more challenging to (typically water) storage and small jars used as canteens usually have
link specifically to fermented liquids, although decoration and form can compact, highly-restricted rims and smaller rim diameters to protect the
serve as indicators, particularly when considered in archaeological liquid and, in the case of smaller vessels, to enable pouring. The walls of
context. At Kirikongo and adjacent sites in the Mouhoun Bend, vessels liquid storage vessels tend to be fairly thick to enable cooling as the
used for a variety of purposes have been excavated in situ in abandon­ vessel breathes.
ment and catastrophic destruction levels, providing insights into their At Kirikongo, cooking jars could have been used for daily food
uses (Dueppen 2012a; Dueppen and Gallagher 2016; Holl 2014; Holl preparation, production of shea butter, and brewing. Jars used for
and Koté 2000; Koté 2007). boiling during beer production would likely be in the largest size class,
The most distinctive feature of Kirikongo’s ceramic assemblage is the but it is difficult to separate out those that may have been used specif­
repeated accumulation of fragments of diverse vessels in the individual ically for this task. Due to its short shelf life, beer is unlikely to have been
contexts, which Dueppen (2022) has argued likely reflects the belong­ stored in the same way as water.
ings of the individual or their family (or social network) upon death.
These synchronic assemblages contain sherds from representative ves­ 4.2.2. Basins
sels of different types (jar forms in different sizes, basins in different Basins differ from jars in that they are open vessels with vertical or
sizes, diverse bowls, beakers, etc.) (Fig. 4). Vessels related to liquids, very slightly sloping sides and thick walls (Fig. 5). They are regularly
both pouring and consumption, were common indicating that in life found in a range of sizes from the beginning of Kirikongo’s occupation
these were valued parts of ceramic assemblages, and the regular pres­ and are a consistent yet small proportion of the ceramic assemblage,
ence of likely more dedicated ritual vessels, often small cups, could although basins may be undercounted. Some rims identified with jars on
indicate that liquids (alcohol, blood, water, etc.) played a role in reli­ the basis of style could derive from basins, but were lacking enough of
gious practices as found ethnohistorically. Here we describe the basic the neck to identify whether the vessel was open or restricted. It is likely
categories of vessels at Kirikongo to make inferences about the role of that the extra-large (>40 cm diameter) and large (30–40 cm diameter)
liquids, and in particular beer, in ancestral ritual and in everyday life. unrestricted basins recovered from Kirikongo were used for fermenta­
Discussions focus on the fully analyzed and published ceramics from the tion, although no archaeological examples reach the size of the very
first six occupation phases (Yellow I through Red IV, ca. 100–1500 CE) large brewing vessels documented ethnohistorically and depicted in
(Dueppen 2012a; 2015; Dueppen and Gallagher 2016). Fig. 1. Their open orifices would have created large surface areas for
fermentation, and the thick vessel walls would have assisted in regu­
4.2.1. Jars lating the temperature of the fermenting liquid. As described above,
Jars of various sizes comprise the largest proportion of the ceramic evidence from Kirikongo and neighboring archaeological sites suggests
assemblages, typically accounting for 50 to 60% of vessels. Jars can be that other soaking tasks (dyeing, tanning) used jar forms with slightly
used for a variety of tasks, including cooking, dry storage, liquid storage, restricted rims. Medium (20–30 cm diameter) and small basins with the
and industrial tasks such as indigo dying and tanning. Storage jars same simple rim form (either straight or simply thickened) were likely
containing cowpea (Vigna unguiculata) and fonio were recovered from a used for a variety of purposes. It is possible that some may have been
Red III burned structure at the neighboring site of Kerébé-Sira-Tomo used when transferring liquid between boiling and brewing vessels or for
(Holl and Koté 2000; Koté 2007), an indigo dyeing installation from Red feeding the yeast starter prior to its addition to the larger brewers.
IV was documented at Tora-Sira-Tomo (Holl 2014), and at least 17
complete jars were part of a Red IV leather tanning workshop at Kir­ 4.2.3. Bowls and cups
ikongo (Dueppen and Gallagher 2016). Based on these finds, pots used Most contexts at Kirikongo included sherds from a diverse assem­
for cooking and storage tended to be more ovoid while those used for blage of cups and bowls (Fig. 6). These small vessels were likely used for
soaking tasks tended to be more squat. However, vessels of different a variety of activities, including food and liquid consumption and
shape from the same phase typically share the same rim form and possibly the pouring of ritual libations. These vessels tend to be richly

Yellow I Yellow II Red I


n=38 n=83 n=195
e
c d d

b a c a c a a Jars
b Basins
b
b c Bowls
e
e e
d c d Jarlets/Beakers

c b e Tri-Pods
c
a a
a
b
b
Red II Red III Red IV
n=141 n=212 n=146
Fig. 4. Relative distribution of vessel classes at Kirikongo by occupation phase.

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S.A. Dueppen and D. Gallagher Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64 (2021) 101353

Yellow I, Unit B

Rim B162.1
Yellow II, Unit A

5 cm

Rim A159.9

Yellow II, Unit C

Rim C99.1

Red 4, Unit B
Large channel

Plastic ridge

Rim B28.1

Fig. 5. Open basins from excavations at Kirikongo.

decorated and a portion of them were footed. Bowls became increasingly without bases.
common and diverse at Kirikongo from Yellow I to Red II and appear to Of particular interest is the occurrence of what are often called tri-
have been a locus for decorative expression as House identities diverged pod vessels, more accurately described as multi-leg double-cups,
(Dueppen 2015). Like other vessels, they became more standardized in which are found at archaeological sites in western Burkina Faso and
decoration and form beginning in mid-Red II (Dueppen 2012a). In late eastern Mali including in specialized ritual locations in the Bandiagara
Red IV, the percentage of bowls in the assemblage declined rapidly Escarpment (Andah 1978; Bedaux 1980; Bedaux et al. 1978; Dueppen
(Dueppen and Gallagher 2016). 2015; Holl 2014; Koté 2007; Mayor 2011; McIntosh 1995). These vessels
Vessels in this category were, with occasional exceptions, open and have two cups connected by in most cases three legs, although two and
unrestricted, with no examples of the carination common in bowls from four leg examples have been identified outside the Mouhoun Bend
Mali at this time (e.g., McIntosh 1995; Mayor 2011). Most had diameters (Fig. 7). Fragments are present in most contexts at Kirikongo from Red I
between 10 and 20 cm, although some were as small as 6 cm. Bowls (starting in the ninth century CE) and continuing until very early Red IV
appeared to be associated with footed bases. These primarily took the (early fifteenth century CE). Tri-pod vessels were locally produced, as
form of rings or pedestals, although by Red II they were joined by flat they were kiln fired with similar paste and were extensively decorated
circular bases with decorated edges. As mentioned above, footed bases with carved roulettes and other decoration techniques that tracked the
tend to be associated with bowls used for liquids, including those for changes on decorations on other vessels at Kirikongo. In some contexts,
ritual practices. The well-decorated flat platform bases may be a related it is possible that different legs of the same vessel had different deco­
form, although it is unknown if they would be correlated with liquid ration techniques. Technologically, these were likely used for liquid, and
consumption. Unfortunately, complete vessels were rare, making it as will be discussed below, we suggest that their double bowl form with
difficult to determine the relative frequency of bowls and cups with and a bowl facing downward and another facing towards the sacrificer may

8
S.A. Dueppen and D. Gallagher Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64 (2021) 101353

Red II, Unit A

Rim A111.2

Red I, Unit A Red II, Unit C

Rim A118.5
Rim C33.2

5
CM
Red III, Unit A

Rim A71.1

Red II, Unit A Red III, Unit C

Rim A86.3

Rim C25.5

Fig. 6. Small bowls from excavations at Kirikongo.

Fig. 7. Tri-pod vessel fragments. From left: basal cup, leg fragments, likely top cup. Fragments are from different contexts/vessels.

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S.A. Dueppen and D. Gallagher Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64 (2021) 101353

indicate use in ancestor-related rituals. when cups and bowls decreased significantly in frequency and tri-pods
In general, the commonality and diversity of bowl forms, in addition ceased to be produced (the last occurred in early Red IV). As will be
to the similarities in form between these and the calabashes used for discussed below, these changes occurred during a dynamic period
drinking and other consumption and pouring activities in the ethno­ following a significant decrease in population during which diasporic
historic record may suggest that ceramic bowls may have been used for Mande merchants moved into the region (Dueppen and Gallagher 2016;
more diverse tasks in the past. The smallest examples, potentially with Insoll 2003; Kiéthéga, 1983; Philiponeau, 2009; Wilks 2000). It is
footed bases, may have been dedicated ritual vessels involving liquids, possible that these reflect changes in alcohol consumption in the com­
as they could easily be poured with one hand. The high level of in­ munity in association with the initial shifts towards Islam.
vestment in decoration in comparison to jars and basins, which includes
not only patterned designs and slip, but also burnishing, could indicate 5. Beer production and consumption in social and ritual life
their use in socially significant settings.
5.1. Liquids and ancestral rituals at Kirikongo
4.2.4. Beakers or Jarlets
A distinctive class of small, ornately decorated vessels with highly At Kirikongo, ancestors were created in rituals that emplaced them in
polished interiors was in use at Kirikongo from Yellow II through Red II houses of the dead (either partial remains of prior houses within do­
(Fig. 8). With slightly restricted flared or everted rims and diameters of mestic areas or specially constructed of low houses atop tombs). These
less than 15 cm (many 10 cm or less), these vessels resembled beakers or rituals involved fragmented material culture, animal remains, and likely
miniature jars. Each vessel was unique and their decoration incorpo­ other substances such as alcohol that do not preserve in the archaeo­
rated some of the earliest uses of carved wooden roulettes at the site. logical record. The repetition of these rituals resulted in the creation of
From late Red II to Red IV vessels of similar size and shape continued to spatially segregated mounds several meters deep, the earth of which
be produced, but in line with the general trends with the shift to materialized connections with ancestors.
specialized production, their decoration became less distinctive and Consumption of alcohol and pouring of libations may have been a
more standardized. Given their size and thickness similar to that of small significant element of these rituals. The investment in consumption and
bowls, it is possible that some of these vessels could have had footed ritual vessels and their inclusion in these assemblages suggests that they
bases or flat round bases, however, none were found sufficiently intact. may have been important personal or familial possessions for use in
Small enough to hold in one hand, these vessels may have been used for maintaining house ancestors. Many of the likely dedicated ritual vessels
drinking or pouring liquids. in the pottery assemblages have a double bowl form, with one bowl
facing down and the other upward towards the sacrificer. While tri-pods
4.2.5. Discussion are a notable example, many footed bowls and cups at Kirikongo had a
Overall, the ceramic assemblages from Kirikongo contexts, most of deep concavity, or ring-shaped base facing down. If so, then the use of
which likely represent synchronous life assemblages, are consistent with liquids alongside sacrificed animals and other foods may have been
beer production and consumption and the pouring of liquids in ritual central to ritual meals of co-presence between people and ancestors.
contexts. Basins appropriate for brewing were found throughout the The large ritual complex at Mound 4 provides additional proxy evi­
sequence, as were cooking jars that could have been used for the boiling dence for the significance of alcohol at Kirikongo (Dueppen 2012a;
stages. Diverse bowls and beakers were common, among them footed 2022). This two-story ritual complex was constructed around 900 CE on
vessels and special ritual vessel forms. With their elaborate decoration, the central mound directly above a series of elaborate tombs from the
these were likely used in ritual or other socially significant settings. early settlement. The complex was used and maintained (replastered
While none of these vessel types can be definitively and uniquely linked and repaved) until ca. 1280 CE, when it was destroyed by fire. The
to beer consumption, it would be surprising if beer played no part in burning roof fell into the structure, heating the edges of the wall bases
these events. and sealing the floor contents (none of which were carbonized). The
While there is general continuity in the internal diversity of the ritual complex may have been partially subterranean. It was located
vessel assemblages through the fifteenth century CE, there are changes immediately to the west of a large household compound, and while it is
in decoration style and investment that are particularly pronounced on possible that the mound grew around the structure, by the eleventh or
consumption and ritual vessels. During roughly the first thousand years twelfth century the floor of the ritual complex was already one meter
of the site’s occupation, when pottery was produced by individual below that of the adjacent occupied residential space.
households, the decoration on consumption and ritual vessels became The excavations of the ritual complex uncovered parts of three rooms
increasingly elaborated and differentiated (Dueppen 2015). In mid-Red (Fig. 9). The complex was centered on a multi-door “vestibule” room
II, with a shift to specialist production and the use of the same pottery built from fired bricks and containing storage jars (room 4). The diverse,
throughout the site, these classes of vessels remained in use but their well-decorated storage jars on the floor of the ancestor house were
decoration simplified (Dueppen 2012a). crushed by the falling roof and did not contain any preserved organic
The main shift in the ceramic assemblage occurred in late Red IV, remains. However, as mentioned above, a complete head of carbonized

Unit A, Red I Unit A, Yellow II

Rim A133.4 Rim A157.7


5
CM

Fig. 8. Jarlets or beakers from excavations at Kirikongo.

10
S.A. Dueppen and D. Gallagher Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64 (2021) 101353

Collection of PEDESTAL
(not excavated
Storage Jars at this depth)

Laterite Collection of
Blocks
Storage Jars
ROOM 4

ick
al Br
Coursed Earth

W ed
Fire

r
l
Fi
d Bric
kW
all
Smashed
Granary
Unpaved Area
ROOM 3
ROOM 5
20 cm N

Fig. 9. The ritual complex at Mound 4, Kirikongo (in use ca. 900–1280 CE).

sorghum was recovered from among the carbonized roof remnants. It have been used for beer consumption and rituals involving liquids,
was likely hanging from the roof when it burned and may have held potentially related to House ancestors.
symbolic meaning. To the south of the vestibule was a room that was The subsequent societal shift to a more decentralized community
likely used for sacrificial rituals (room 3). This room had a maintained organization likely changed the nature of contexts within which people
hole in the thick crushed laterite floor pavement that allowed direct feasted and the identities that they expressed. Due to the creation of
access to the bare earth. An assortment of ritual items had gradually specialized potting for the community, residents shared a communal
accumulated in the space including remains of sacrificed animals, a clay assemblage and ceramics were no longer used to express House identity.
ball, cowrie shells, a knife sharpening stone and diverse ceramics, While brewing and consumption vessels remained important elements
among them a broken tri-pod, footed bowls, and at least one beaker or of assemblages and were more diverse and ornate than cooking vessels,
jarlet that could have been used for libations or in sacrificial rituals. the individual pots were more consistent in appearance and less
Finally, a room (room 5) to the southwest of the vestibule contained a uniquely decorated. It is likely that some feasts and rituals during this
large terracotta tri-pod granary that may have been a meter tall. The era had more emphasis on communal identities or at least pottery was
granary was crushed when the terrace/room above this part of the less associated with the expression of House identity.
structure collapsed inward, depositing jars and other materials from Beer production and consumption continued through the plague era,
above in the space. No contents of the granary were preserved. While the but like fifteenth century ceramics at the site in general, the associated
evidence is circumstantial, the presence of grain storage, carbonized ceramics became much simpler in form and decoration. Late Red IV
sorghum, and a space likely used for animal sacrifices and libation in a assemblages contained significantly fewer ornate small bowls and
ritual structure strongly suggests that beer may have been a fundamental complex forms like tri-pod vessels ceased to be made. The disappearance
component of the rituals that took place in this space. of strong candidates for brewing vessels and steep decline in small bowls
in the assemblage may reflect a lessening role for alcohol at the site.
Alternatively, it is possible that this change in the ceramic assem­
5.2. Beer and social identities at Kirikongo blage reflects a shift towards the use of calabashes in consumption
contexts. Today, calabashes (Lagenaria siceraria) are commonly used in
While beer was likely produced, consumed, and was an element of both beer production (as ladles and for transferring liquids) and as
ritual action throughout most of the occupation at Kirikongo, there is consumption vessels (Capron 1973; Lentz 1999; Lobnibe 2018; Şaul
evidence that it may have played different roles in social life at different 1981). Amongst the many differences between ethnohistoric practices
points in the site’s history. and archaeological data in the region are that twentieth century ceramic
During the first several hundred years of occupation, Kirikongo assemblages contained very few small bowls and liquid consumption
consisted of a single family homestead. While the presence of brewers vessels. A shift away from ceramic bowls/cups and towards calabashes
and cup/bowls suggests that alcohol was produced and consumed, it is could be due to efficacy of production, weight and durability, or an
possible that many beer consumption events involved the participation appreciation of the fact that they can be easily decorated by individuals
(invitation) of people from neighboring homesteads. As regionally other than the potter. While bottle gourds generally have great antiquity
dispersed homesteads would need to be integrated into larger social in sub-Saharan Africa, there is no data on when the specific varietals of
networks, beer (and feasts more generally) could have been a way to calabash from which bowls and ladles are commonly made today came
maintain regional connection and cohesion. With the addition of a into popular cultivation and use.
second house at Kirikongo, divergent ceramic production traditions
emerged that became increasingly distinct as the community grew 6. Conclusion
through the latter half of the first millennium CE (Dueppen 2015). Ev­
idence suggests that investment in ceramics as a form of identity resulted Kirikongo is situated within a broader landscape of mound cluster
in technological innovations and the adoption and invention of an sites with strong ceramic affinities along the Voltaic drainages and their
extraordinarily diverse array of decoration techniques and forms. Many tributaries in Burkina Faso and northern Ghana and archaeological
of these new forms were associated with small sized vessels that could

11
S.A. Dueppen and D. Gallagher Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64 (2021) 101353

evidence for ritualized depositional practices is widespread (e.g., Andah Culture provided permits for the project. Drissa Koté, Abdoulaye Koita,
1978; Anquandah 1987; Dueppen 2012a; 2012b; 2022; Insoll and and Amadou Koté of Douroula and University of Ouagadougou students
Kankpeyeng 2014; Insoll et al. 2012; Kankpeyeng and Nkumbaan 2009; Léonce Ki and Fabrice Dabiré participated in fieldwork and laboratory
Kankpeyeng et al. 2013; Holl 2014; Holl and Koté 2000; Koté 2007; analyses in the Mouhoun Bend. We wish to thank the communities of
Saako 2017; Shinnie and Kense 1989). While ethnohistoric alcohol use Douroula, Kirikongo and Tora for their hospitality during the project,
and ritual practice varies in the region, the symbolic importance of beer and for this paper we are particularly grateful to the community of Tora
as a liquid, and in the case of sorghum beer its color, cannot be under­ for allowing us to photograph their brewing installations. At the Uni­
estimated. Red is very powerful in cultural classifications (see for versity of Oregon, Samantha McGee, Lauren Sonomura, and Ethan
example Gavua 2015) and sorghum beer has many different symbolic Schmunk assisted with illustrations. This paper was originally developed
dimensions that may be visible archaeologically. As discussed above, as part of the conference “Alcohol, Rituals and Spiritual World in
many ethnohistorically documented ritual practices in central West Ancient China and Beyond: An Interdisciplinary Perspective” at the
Africa involve the sacrifice of domestic animals and libations of beer. Stanford Archaeology Center. We would like to express our thanks to
The flow of blood and alcohol over and even into, altars, ritual objects or organizers Jiajing Wang and Li Liu at Stanford for inviting us to this
the earth materializes the transfer of potency. conference, and to them and the other conference participants for their
At Kirikongo, it is highly likely that for most of the site’s occupation insightful comments on this paper. Finally, we thank the five anonymous
beer played an important role in the social and ritual lives of residents. peer reviewers for their thoughtful comments.
To date, evidence for beer consumption at Kirikongo primarily derives
from the presence of brewing, drinking, and libation vessels in the References
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