2/7/2024 WOODEN FLOORS

REPUBLIQUE DU CAMEROUN REPUBLIC OF CAMEROON

Paix-Travail-Patrie Peace-work-fatherland
****** ******
MINISTERE DES TRAVAUX PUBLICS MINISTRY OF PUBLIC WORKS
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NATIONALE ADVANCED SCHOOL

Annexe de BUEA OF PUBLIC WORKS
BP : 10006-BUEA
ANNEX- BUEA
Tél : (237)33 32 22 76 B BOX: 10006-BUEA
****** Tél: (237)33 32 22 76
Département du Génie Civil ******
Civil Engineering Department

CLASSE: HTC CIVIL ENGINEERING 1

Group N°5
SUBJECT CODE: CEC 510 BUILDING TECHNOLOGY
Departement

THEME:
WOODEN FLOORS

STUDENTS OF HTC CIVIL ENGINEERING YEAR 1

PRESENTED BY:
1. TSIMI MVOGO ACHILLE
2. AYUKETAH PHILICE
3. TUFOIN QUINCY AFUMBOM FULAI
4. BAKANG ENO PATRICIA FLORE

LECTURER: MR. SEUWA GUY B.

Année Académique
2023/2024
 TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................................... 1

DEFINITION ......................................................................................................................................... 2

TYPES OF WOODEN FLOORING ...................................................................................................... 3

-THEIR METHOD OF INSTALLATION

-BENEFITS AND DRAWBACKS

MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT USED IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF WOODEN FLOORS ....... 4

PROCESS FOR CONSTRUCTING A SIMPLE WOODEN FLOOR ................................................. 5

AREAS WHERE WOODEN FLOORS ARE BEING USED .............................................................. 6

MAINTENANCE MODE FOR WOODEN FLOORS .......................................................................... 7

LIFESPAN OF A WOODEN FLOOR ................................................................................................. 8

PREVENTION OF COMMON PROBLEMS IN WOODEN FLOORS ............................................... 9

MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT USED IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF WOODEN FLOORS ...... 10

PROCESS FOR CONSTRUCTING A SIMPLE WOODEN FLOOR ................................................................ 11

AREAS WHERE WOODEN FLOORS ARE BEING USED ...........................................................................12

MAINTENANCE MODE FOR WOODEN FLOORS ....................................................................................... 13

LIFESPAN OF A WOODEN FLOOR ............................................................................................................... 14

PREVENTION OF COMMON PROBLEMS IN WOODEN FLOORS ............................................................ 15

ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF WOODEN FLOORS ...............................................................16

CONCLUSION ....................................................................................................................................................17

pg. 1
 1. INTRODUCTION
The wooden floor is interior, adding warmth. It is most aesthetic, all durability and an essential
element of architecture and character to any space by bringing refinement. Whether it's
laminate or engineered wood, solid flooring has a long history as the material of choice for
flooring.

2. DEFINITION
Wooden flooring is a floor covering made from solid strips, engineered panels or satisfies, all
composed of natural wood or wood- derived materials. These floors are appreciated for their
natural beauty, durability and insulating properties.

3. TYPES OF WOODEN FLOORING

There exist many types’ wooden floors, with each type possessing its own individual
characteristics

1. STRIP FLOORING:

They are narrow and thin strips of timber.

Jointed by tongue and groove joints.
Normal strips 6 to 10 cm in with and 2 to 2.5 cm in thickness are used

pg. 2
 METHOD OF INSTALLATION

1. Find the center of your room, measuring off the two longest walls, and snap a line down the
center of that room.

2. Install a starter board on the line. Fasten the starter board to the floor using wood screws.

3. Nail the first row of wood flooring against the starter board, being careful not to move the
starter board when nailing. The groove of the flooring should be against the starter board.

4. Drill and hand-nail the first three rows through the tongue. DO NOT USE TOP NAILS.

5. Use a blind nailer to install the remaining rows of wood flooring. Use the nailing practices
described earlier in the chapter.

6. After installing in one direction, remove the starter board and start rows going in the opposite
direction.

7. Install a spline or a slip tongue in the groove of the board that was against the straightedge.
Put wood flooring adhesive down the entire length of the groove before installing the spline.

8. Install the spline using a blind nailer. To keep the spline in alignment for the next flooring
board, use a scrap piece of wood flooring to run along the length of the spline as you nail.

9. Install the remaining rows in the opposite direction. Use the nailing practices described earlier
in the chapter

pg. 3
 2. WOOD BLOCK FLOORING

This consist of short but thicker wood blocks which are laid in suitable designs over a concrete
base. This block are properly joined together with the grains exposed. Size varying from 20*8cm
to 30*8cm thickness 2 to 4 cm are used

METHOD OF INSTALLATION

1. Gather the Materials You Need to Install Wood Blocks

For a DIY installation of a wood block floor, there are a few basic materials you’ll need. Make
sure to have them all collected before you get started.

 Tiles and Underlayment: Choose your wood tiles and select the appropriate underlayment
for the area you’re covering.
 Installation Kit: You’ll need an installation kit equipped with all the essentials like a grout
saw and trowel.

pg. 4
 Sandpaper: Have some fine sandpaper on hand in case any of the wood is too rough to the
touch.
 Adhesive: Your adhesive may be included in the installation kit, otherwise, choose an
appropriate one for the material you’ll be using.

2. Preparing the Subfloor for Wood Block Installation

It’s important to prepare the subfloor correctly before installing a wood block floor. Here we’ll
show you how to ensure a successful installation.

Subfloor Requirements

 The subfloor must be even, level, and dry so that wood blocks can be laid properly.
 The subfloor needs to be structurally sound with no buckling or voids.
 Check for any cracks or holes and repair.
 Remove any debris such as dirt, nails, wood, screws, etc.

3. Installing the Wood Blocks

Now that the subfloor’s been prepped, it’s time to start putting down the wood blocks!
Installing wood blocks can be laborious, so it’s essential that you know what you’re doing.
Here’s a step-by-step guide for setting up your wooden floor.

 1. Measure and Mark your Layout

 2. Set up a Spacer System

 3. Secure your Wood Blocks

 4. Finish off the Edges and Corners

4. Filling Voids Between the Blocks

Regardless of your type of wood block flooring, making sure the blocks are placed correctly is
essential. To ensure proper installation, you’ll need to fill any voids between the blocks with a
compatible filler or mortar. Here are the key steps you should take when filling voids between
blocks:

 Prepare the blocks.

 Mix the filler.
 Apply the filler.

pg. 5
5. Sealing the Wood Blocks

It is important to seal your wood block floor prior to installing it. Sealing helps protect the blocks
from staining, and it gives your floor a glossy finish. Sealing your floor can be done in several
ways, depending on the type of finish you want. Some sealers are available for deep penetrating
protection and others can be applied with a brush. Here are the steps you need to follow:

 Purchase the sealer of your choice according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

 Prep the wood blocks for sealing, making sure that all dirt and dust are removed.
 Apply the sealer to each block using an applicator. Work in small areas to ensure you get an
even and thin coat.
 Let the sealer dry completely before walking on the blocks.

6. Finishing the Wood Block Floor

Once you have all the wood blocks properly laid out, it’s time to seal and finish the floor. To begin,
mop or vacuum the surface to ensure no dirt or other debris is left behind.

 Check for Problems

 Apply the Finish

pg. 6
 3. PARQUET FLOORING
This is similar to block flooring except thin blocks are supported on sub-floors. The blocks are
laid by means of hot glue in desired pattern and then. Nailed with panel pins. Popular in this days

METHOD OF INSTALLATION
Start by laying the first complete plank in the left-hand corner of the room with the tongue
sides facing the wall.

pg. 7
Step 1

Remove only the tongues on the long sides of all the

other planks you want to lay in the first row. Using
the wedges you can easily maintain a gap of at least
15 millimeters to the wall. This is necessary as the
wood in the ready-made parquet must ‘work’, i.e. it
expands minimally and then contracts. The wall gap
thus gives the wood the necessary space for this
process.

Step 2

Insert the head end of the next complete

plank into plank no. 1 (Fig. 2). Lay the other
planks in this row in the same way across
the entire width of the room.

Step 3

Cut the last plank in each row so that you leave

another gap of at least 15 mm to the wall (fig. 3). You
can use cut-off pieces of planks, as long as they are
at least 40 centimeters long, to start subsequent
rows.

Step 4

Make sure that the planks in the first row are

straight. Cut the first plank of the second row down
to approx. 80cm. Fix this plank upright with the
tongue as far as possible into the groove on the
groove side of the previous row of planks and
press the plank down slowly, using a forward and
downward turning motion (fig. 4). The plank should
lock into the previously laid row (fig. 5).

pg. 8
Step 5

Similarly, the next complete plank is turned into

the click connection on the long side and the head
end pushed tight against the previous plank before
it is lowered. Then press the plank down slowly,
using a forward and downward turning motion (fig.
6). The plank must lock into the row previously laid
and the end joint must fit tightly into the previous
plank.

Step 6

Install the whole area row by row in this way.

Remember that the end joints must be offset by
at least 40cm (fig. 7).

Step 7

To cut the last row to size, use a spare piece of

plank and draw the remaining plank width on it
(leaving at least another 15 mm gap to the wall).

Step 8
Taking the plank marked for width, push the plastic end
tongue forward out of the end groove with the aid of a
spare piece of plank (fig. 8).

pg. 9
Step 9

Begin cutting the plank to size at the end of the plastic

tongue (fig. 9). After the plank has been cut to size,
push the plastic tongue on the end back into the end
groove (fig. 10).

Step 10

Begin laying the last row in the right hand corner of

the room (leaving at least a 15mm gap to the wall)
and angle the sides of the plank into the second-
last row. The next plank is pivoted in the same way
and lowered down at the end (fig. 11).

Step 11

Push the plastic tongue which is pointing out towards

the wall (fig. 12) back into the end connection using a
tension rod, scraper, screw driver or similar

Step 12

Before attaching the skirting boards, remove the timber

wedges.

pg. 10
 4. SOLID WOOD FLOORS:
In this type of flooring wider planks are used. Jointed by tongue and grooves.
Solid flooring is made up of solid wooden slats, a durable type, offers good thermal insulation
and comfort

METHOD OF INSTALLATION

Step 1: preparing the area

For your first row, you’ll want the straightest planks,
arranged with the tongue side facing the center of the
room. Place spacers inside the expansion gap — the space
between the wall and floor that allows the wood to expand
from heat and humidity. Predrill nail holes 1/4 inch from the
narrow side of the plank at 1/2 inch from the wall. Continue
at 6-inch intervals for the length of each board.

Step 2: Countersink the nail

Because the pneumatic nailer is hard to maneuver near the
wall, face-nail the first few boards in place. Countersink
the nails with a nail punch and fill the remaining hole with
matching putty. Then blind-nail at a 45-degree angle
through the tongue. Make sure to countersink the nail so it
doesn't interfere with the board-to-board connection.

pg. 11
Step 3: Fit and lock the boards
On the second row, lock the tongue and groove, and tap them
together with a mallet and block for a tight fit between the
boards. Stagger the ends of adjoining boards by at least 6 inches,
cutting the end board if needed to create a stronger, more
attractive flooring pattern.

Step 4: Use a flooring nailer

Blind-nail the second row through the tongue and repeat the
process until you’re able to use the flooring nailer. The flooring
nailer requires room to work, so it typically can't be used until
two to four rows have been installed. When using a flooring
nailer, be sure to install the nailer's protective boot to protect
the flooring.

Step 5: Finish the hardwood floor installation

When you get to the last few rows, switch back to nailing by hand.
On the last row, cut the pieces to fit, measuring the distance from
the wall to the board — not the tongue — minus the expansion
gap.
If the final piece is 1 inch wide or less, apply a small amount of
wood glue to the tongue and groove. Then insert the piece with a
pry bar and a piece of scrap wood to protect the wall. If the final
piece is larger than 1 inch wide, face-nail the piece, countersink
and fill the hole with matching putty.

Step 6: Install the transition pieces

Install the transition pieces according to the manufacturer’s
instructions and remove the spacers. Cut the underlayment and
reattach the baseboards and shoe molding to the wall, not the
floor.

pg. 12
 5. LAMINATED WOODEN FLOORING:
Laminated wooden flooring is a compressed fiber board planks covered by a photographic image
of wood, stone or tile with a protective overlay. It laid in living areas, studies and play rooms.
Some products includes a water proof core which manufactures claim are suitable for bathroom
and kitchens.

METHOD OF INSTALLATION

Step 1: Test the Flooring Layout

Test-fit some laminate planks to see how they will lay
out in the room. For a small to medium-size room, it's
easiest to use the flooring itself rather than measuring
and calculating.
Arrange planks side by side across the room. You can
lock the side joints together or simply butt the planks
against one another; just be careful not to walk on the
flooring if the joints are not locked together.
Next, arrange a length of planks end to end. Be careful
not to lock the planks together. This would create a lock
that is difficult to undo and can damage the edges.
Once you have a sense of the overall layout, pull up the
planks and stack them in a nearby area.

pg. 13
Step 2: Install the Underlayment

Flooring manufacturers always recommend putting down underlay

for laminate flooring. This thin, dense foam layer helps to absorb
sound, provides a thermal barrier, makes it more comfortable to
walk on the laminate, and helps bridge minor gaps and bumps on
the underlying floor.1
Roll out sheets of underlayment, and butt the edges together so they
are touching but not overlapping. Secure the seams with tape, as
recommended by the manufacturer. Some underlayment come with
peel-and-stick adhesive edges that are used to join the pieces.
Using a utility knife, trim the underlayment to fit against the walls
and obstructions.

Step 3: Begin the First Row of Planks

Trim off the tongues (not the grooves) from the boards that will
edge the first wall. Often, this is easy enough to do with a sharp
utility knife, or you can use a table saw or circular saw.
Begin laying the first row on the longest wall with the trimmed
edges of the planks against the wall. Start on the right side, and
work to the left. Lay down a full-size plank against the wall,
spacing it about 1/4 to 3/8 inch (as directed by the manufacturer)
away from the wall and making sure the groove edge faces out.
Place spacers of scrap wood between the flooring and the wall
to maintain this gap.
Proceed with additional full-length planks, working toward the left
to the end of the room. As you work, lock each piece to its neighbor
using a hammer and a tapping block or pull bar to snug up the
joints. The end joints should be tight with no gaps. Some
manufacturers suggest tapping the planks with a rubber mallet to help close the end joints.

Step 4: Finish the First Row

Once you reach the left end of the first row, the last
plank will likely be too long. Measure the length
needed and transfer that measurement to a full-size
plank, measuring from the right to the left side so
that the tongue end of the plank is preserved to
attach to the last full plank. Be sure to account for
the expansion gap at the wall.
Cut the plank to length with a circular saw or jigsaw.
Retain the cut-off end. This will form the first plank
in the second row, beginning back at the right side of
the room. Fit the final cut piece into the first row of flooring, and secure the tongue-and-
groove end joint as before. A pull bar is particularly handy at the end of a row.

pg. 14
Step 5: Plan the Next Rows

Moving from right to left, the last piece in each row

will always be cut off, with the cut-off piece from the
left shifting down to begin the next row of flooring on
the right.
The rows of laminate planks should have a
staggered, saw tooth appearance so that seams
never line up in adjacent rows. Not only would this
be unsightly, but it would also compromise the
structural stability of the flooring.
It's best to keep cut pieces no less than 16 inches
long. But with a stable, flat subfloor, the cut lengths
can go as short as 1 foot. If you find that your first
row leaves you with a very short cut piece on the left
end, it's best to reconfigure the row so that it begins with a partial board on the right end. This
will ensure that the cut plank on the left is an acceptable length.

Step 6: Continue Laying More Rows

Install the planks for the second and subsequent

rows, using a similar but slightly different technique
than you used for the first row. For these rows, hold
each piece at a 45-degree angle, and insert the long
tongue edge into the groove of the planks in the
preceding row. Then, lower the piece flat to the floor
to lock the joint. Finally, tap the piece into its
neighbor in the same row with the hammer and
tapping block or pull bar (on all but the first piece in
each row).

Step 7: Install the Last Row

Unless you are very lucky, you will need to rip your last row of planks to finish the room's flooring
installation. Mark planks in this last row for ripping, making sure to allow for the 1/4-inch
expansion gap between the flooring and the wall. Rip the final row of planks using a circular
saw, table saw, or jigsaw.
Install the last row of ripped planks, using the same tongue-and-groove fitting technique. This
can be a little tricky with the last row of planks because you are working tight against the wall.
But even in tight spaces, such as beneath a cabinet overhang, you should still have enough room
to angle the board up to get it into a locking position.
Complete the installation by removing all spacers and then installing baseboard molding along
the room's perimeter. The gaps along the walls should be entirely hidden by the molding.

pg. 15
BENEFITS
■ It is cheap
■ Resistance to abrasion
■ Double moisture protection
■ Easy and fast to lay
■ Perfectly interlocked using clip system
■ Eco-friendly and health friendly
■ Engineering wooden flooring
■ Solid wooden flooring

DRAWBACKS
■ It is easily swollen by moisture and damage can be prepared.
■ The joints wear over time, and once the surface is damaged
■It is had to fix

6. ENGINEERING WOODEN FLOORING

Engineering wooden flooring is composed of two or more layers of wood in the form of a plank.
The top layers is the wood that is visible and the flooring is installed and is adhered to the core.
Engineer wood is the most common type of wood flooring used globally. Each floor board consist
of three or four layers of wood, glued together at right angle to create a plank around 40mm
thick. It laid in anywhere, it won’t be exposed to water or humid atmosphere it is time consuming,
fiddly and noisy to lay wood on stairs and in some places. It is hard to achieve a good finish for
instance, around toilet planks and pedestals and it is mostly used in chemical laboratories

CROSS SECTIONAL AREA

pg. 16
 METHOD OF INSTALLATION

Step 1: Secure the First Row

For the first row, pre-drill and nail with finishing nails about 1 inch
from the wall at 3- to 4-inch intervals. Use a nail punch and fill the
holes with wood filler.

Step 2: Staple down the Next Rows

For the second and third rows, drive staples every 3 to 4 inches at
a 45- degree angle just above the tongue using a pneumatic staple
gun. Staples must not interfere with the tongue-and groove fit of
additional boards. Continue installing the flooring.

Step 3: Secure the Final Boards

Your last one or two rows will be face nailed, as your pneumatic
stapler will be difficult to operate in a small space. Predrill the
holes and use a nail punch to countersink the nails. Fill the holes
with matching wood filler to camouflage the marks.

Step 4: Reinstall Molding and Add Transitions

Once your new floor is complete, install transition pieces and

remove the spacers. Then nail the baseboards and shoe molding
to the wall.

ADVANTAGES
■ Exceptionally strong and dimensionally stable
■Resists warping and splitting
■Re-use of scrap lumber, chips and sawdust eliminates waste
■Can be made to specific sizes and design specifications

DISADVANTAGES
■ Sells in damp conditions and shrinks in dry
■ Highest price for entry level products
■ It toughest to install
■Engineered products used outside must be laminated with waterproof glue

pg. 17
 7. VINYL FLOORING
Along with laminate, vinyl is one of the most popular floor types. It is adaptable and comes in a
fabulous range of designs and finishes. Vinyl is highly resilient, which means it can be used to
simulate a variety of designs including ceramic, hardwood, marble and stone.

METHOD OF INSTALLATION

Step 1: Remove the Baseboards and Molding

If applicable/necessary you may need to remove
baseboards and trim pieces. Start by cutting
through paint sealing the baseboard and trim to the
wall using a utility knife. Then use a pry bar to
gently loosen. This step can make it easier to install
vinyl plank floors.

Step 2: Prep Your Subfloor for Vinyl Planks

Prep your subfloor so it's clean, dry and level within
3/16-inch change per 10 feet. Use a self-leveler on
low spots and/or sand high spots of wood or
concrete. Don't sand old vinyl flooring as it may
contain asbestos. Self-leveler is available in
powder and pre-mixed form and is used to create
a flat, smooth surface for flooring projects. The
strength of the product is like concrete. Self-
leveler dries fast, so you must work quickly. Use
the proper safety equipment, eye protection, masks or a respirator if needed

pg. 18
Step 3: Create a Plan for Your Vinyl Plank Floors
In old homes some walls are bowed, so it’s
important to create a starting line that's square to
the room. Mark the center of each wall and snap
lines between them with a chalk line. Measure
from the center to the starting wall using a tape
measure, subtracting 5/16-inch to accommodate
expansion, and mark this distance at each end of
the wall. Snap a chalk line between these two
marks to get a straight line against the wall.
Finally, calculate the width of the last row. If it'll
be less than 1/3 of a plank, cut about 1/3 of the vinyl plank off the first row to create even starting
and finishing rows.

Step 4: Lay the First Row of Vinyl Plank Flooring

Installing the first row properly sets up the
whole project for success. Score and cut the
tongue off the first row of vinyl plank flooring
using a utility knife. Set the first plank in place
on the starting line with the cut side toward the
wall, maintaining the expansion gap. The joints
of your vinyl plank flooring must be staggered
at least six inches. Measure and cut your first
piece using a cut end from the first row if
necessary. Since there are a variety of different
click-locking mechanisms used, follow the
specific instructions for your item to lock the
vinyl flooring planks together. These can usually
be found in or on the item packaging.

Step 5: The Second Row and Beyond

Continue the installation, making sure to stagger the
joints by six inches and maintain the expansion gap.

Step 6: Reinstall the Baseboards

After laying the vinyl plank floor, reinstall
the baseboards and trim pieces you’ve removed. If you’re
installing new baseboards and trim pieces, determine
what size you’ll need. Measure the length of the walls
and cut the baseboards down to size with a miter saw.
Attach the boards to the wall with construction adhesive.
Next, you’ll want to add quarter round and use caulk to finish.

pg. 19
BENEFITS

 Vinyl is very durable. It stands up to ordinary wear and tear, and it avoids scrapes and
marks.
 It is inexpensive, which is why it is a favorite for many homeowners.
 Installation is quick, since it doesn't involve any complex procedures; this can save
money on labor costs.
 It comes in a variety of designs and styles to match any interior, commercial or
residential.
 It is resilient and easy to maintain, as well as being slip-resistant (great for pets and
children).

DRAWBACKS
 Vinyl floors do not stand up well to very heavy loads (therefore, they are unsuitable for
industrial spaces), and they can be marked by sharp objects such as high heeled shoes.
 Colors can fade over time with too much exposure to direct sunlight; for this reason, vinyl
is not recommended as an outdoor surface.

8. SPORTS FLOOR
■ Available in different thickness and layers for regular use and sports use.
■ They are tough, durable, flexible, easy to install clean and maintain and stain resistance
■ It help to fast ball speed and accurate ball bounce

pg. 20
 METHOD OF INSTALLATION

Step 1: Subfloor

Once all the paperwork is in place and we have

scheduled an install date, the first thing we will do
is send a pre-start checklist for the client to fill
out. This checklist will tell you what temperature
the room needs to be, humidity levels, concrete
requirements, etc. Once you have signed off on
those requirements, we will have the subfloor and
maple delivered. At that point, our crew will
immediately install the subfloor. Depending on
the size of your gym, this process could take 3-5
days.

Step 2: Racking Out

Once the subfloor is installed, our crew will rack

out the maple. What does that mean? Our guys
will lay out the maple in a puzzle-like pattern across the subfloor. This allows the maple to
evenly absorb any moisture in the air and it will acclimate as it does. Acclimating means that
the maple will adapt to its environment by absorbing a certain amount of moisture. Each area
of the country has a certain acclimation level that the maple must meet before we can begin
nailing. This will ensure that we can install the maple properly, leaving enough room for
fluctuations in humidity. You see, as the humidity outside fluctuates, wood expands and
contracts. If it is a dry day, the maple will shrink up. If it is a humid day, the maple will expand
and grow bigger. If it is nailed before it can absorb the proper amount of moisture, then about
6 months down the road the maple will expand so much that your floor will begin to buckle.

Step 3: Wait
Once the maple is racked out, our crew leaves the jobsite so that it has time to acclimate to the
environment. Depending on the time of year and the requirements for your area, this usually
takes 5-10 days. No one will be working on the floor during that time, but have no fear. We will
monitor the moisture levels of the maple and we will return as soon as the floor is ready.

pg. 21
Step 4: Nailing
Once we have confirmed that the maple is
properly acclimated, our crew will return
to nail the maple. This is quite a sight to
see. Our guys have (very heavy) nail guns
and they work one board at a time, hitting
the nail gun with a sledgehammer to
insert the nail every 12″ on center. It is
back-breaking work, especially because
our crew has to stay bent over, hitting and
moving the nail guns the entire time. So
do not be alarmed if you see them take
frequent breaks to rest their backs (they
will even lay down on the floor sometimes so that they are not bent over for a while). Depending
on the size of your floor, nailing a gym floor usually takes 5-6 days.
As they nail, our crew will leave gaps in the floor called expansion rows. These are required so
that the floor still has room to expand as the weather changes, if need be. Over time, they will
close up, but you’ll notice that they are there for a while.

Step 5: Sanding & Sealing

So the subfloor and maple are installed. What

now? Now, we get on our giant ride-on sander
and sand that wood! This is a messy, dusty
process. We will sand the floor 3 times – once
with coarse sand paper, once with medium sand
paper, and once with fine sandpaper – until it is
smooth and even. This process takes 4-5 days.
Next, we tack the floor until it is clean and
prepare it for the seal coats. We will apply 2
coats of seal to the floor, allowing 24 hours of
dry time between coats, and after the last coat
of seal.

pg. 22
Step 6: Painting

After the last coat of seal dries, it’s time for most of our
clients’ favorite steps: painting the floor! Our artist will
arrive and will begin the process of making your floor
distinctly YOURS. The painting process can take
anywhere from 2 days to 5 days, depending on how
much paint is going on your floor, and how detailed the
painting is (i.e. if logos are multiple colors or have
fades). The paint must dry for 48 hours when complete.

Step 7: Finish

The final step is to apply two coats of finish to the

floor. First, we screen the floor. Then, we tack it
clean, and apply a coat of finish. Then we repeat the
process. Finish is what makes the floor shiny and a
little sticky. It is the reason tennis shoes squeak on
a gym floor. If your floor ever gets slippery, that
usually means it’s time to apply another coat of
finish to it – which should happen once a year.
Always make sure that whatever company is
applying finish to your floor is using an MFMA-
approved finish. If they aren’t, insist that they do or
switch companies. There are hundreds of finishes
to choose from, but not all of them are made for gym
floors. For the safety of your players, ALWAYS use a finish that has been approved by the MFMA.
Once the last coat of finish is on your floor, the gym must remain empty until the finish is
dry. This happens in two phases: after 72 hours, foot traffic is allowed on the floor. However,
you must wait 7-10 days before any rolling loads can go on the floor (i.e. bleachers, chairs,
podiums, etc.).

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 9. BAMBOO FLOORING
■ Bamboo is 100% natural plant that fully matured and harden within 7 years
■ Bamboo has been used as an alternative for flooring because of its physical similarities to
true hard wood
■ Used in shopping mall, restaurant, house, schools and office apartments SPORTS FLOOR
■ Available in different thickness and layers for regular use and sports use.
■ They are tough, durable, flexible, and easy to install clean and maintain and stain resistance
■ It help to fast ball speed and accurate ball bounce

pg. 24
 10.MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT USED IN THE CONSTRUCTION
OF WOODEN FLOORS
The construction of wooden floors uses a variety of specialist materials and tools to ensure a
strong, durable and aesthetically pleasing results. Here is a list of materials and tools frequently
used in the construction of wooden floors:
 Circular saw on jigsaw
 Rubber mallet
 Nails adhesive parquet screws
 Year spirit level
 E-square
 Sander
 Finishes (varnish, oil or wax special to protect and beautify the wood)

11. PROCESS FOR CONSTRUCTING A SIMPLE WOODEN FLOOR

The process of constructing a wooden floor varies depending on the type of floor chosen. Here
is a general overview of the process, emphasizing the essential steps in constructing a solid
wood floor.
1. Solid wood slates
2. Engineered floors made from several layers of woods
3. Laminated floors, composed of high density wood fiber-based panels
4. Preparation of sub-basement
5. Step-under layer, insulating used to minimize the breast and improve energy efficiency
and prolong the durability of the floor
6. Blade arrangement
7. Installation of blades
8. Finishing and adjustment

pg. 25
pg. 26
pg. 27
 12. AREAS WHERE WOODEN FLOORS ARE BEING USED

Wood floors are versatile and can be used in a wide variety of spaces, from traditional homes to
modern commercial buildings. Their adaptability and aesthetic appeal make them a common
choice for many applications.
Here are some examples of uses for wooden floors:

 in houses and apartments;

 in the rooms,
 living and dining rooms; Offices;
 shops and restaurants; hotel rooms
 historic buildings;
 Museums and gallery,
 weddings and receptions

13. MAINTENANCE MODE FOR WOODEN FLOORS

■ With today’s advance in wood flooring stains and finishes cleaning your wood floors has never
been easier. Regular maintenance requires little more than sweeping with a soft bristle broom,
and vacuuming with a soft floor attachment if your wood floor includes a beveled edge that could
collect debris or oil soap should not be used to clean the floors. The best suggestion is to use
the manufactures recommended cleaning products. Excessive grief and foot traffic may affect
appearance. The properly finished and maintained wood floor does not accumulate hidden soil
or odors, compounds. You also should clean your floor periodically with a professional wood
floor cleaning product recommended by wood flooring professional.

pg. 28
 14. LIFESPAN OF A WOODEN FLOOR

The lifespan of an expensive wooden floor depends on several factors, including the type of wood
used, regular maintenance, level of traffic, and conditions. Of course, for a well- maintained solid
wood floor, the lifespan is considerable As a general rule, held and connected more, -, a solid
wood floor well protected can last from 50 to 100 years, depending on daily. The type of wood
and wear.

15. PREVENTION OF COMMON PROBLEMS IN WOODEN FLOORS

PREVENTION OF DAMPNESS IN TIMBER FLOORING

• The entire area of ground below the floor is covered with 15cm layer of cement concrete. This
layer is called “site or oversite concrete”.
• The bridging joists are supported by intermediate walls called sleeper or dwarf walls.
• The sleeper walls are generally 10cm thick, and are honey combed, to enable free circulation
of air in the space below the floor.
• Longitudinal timber members called ‘sleeper plates’ are fixed on top of sleeper walls.
• The floor joists are secured to the sleeper walls by being nailed to the sleeper wall plates to
prevent the rising of dampness.
• The hollow space between the flooring and the oversite concrete is kept dry and fully ventilated.

pg. 29
SOUND PROOFING OF TIMBER FLOORS

• The method of soundproofing timber floors consists in dividing the space between the bottom
of the boarding and the ceiling by means of insulating material.
• The insulating material obstructs the sound waves and does not let them travel from floor to
ceiling.
• The base for storing the insulating material is made by fixing small timber pieces (fillets) on
either side of each bridging joist which supports the insulating boards.
• The insulating material can be foam, cork, sand, slag

16. ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF WOODEN FLOORS

ADVANTAGES
▪ Being strong and durable wooden floor provides infinite benefits as it is as beautiful as any
other designer flooring.
▪ Timber flooring can withstand huge traffic without replacement and minimal maintenance.
▪ It just needs to be re-sanded or re-polished to retain its original luster and finish.
▪ Eco-friendly and natural material which hardly requires energy during manufacturing.
▪ Timber is hypo-allergic which do not extract dirt and other allergens.
▪ Good insulator and hygienic
▪ Low maintenance

pg. 30
DISADVANTAGES
▪ Expensive
▪ May loose its shine giving dull look
▪ Takes lot of time to set on the floor
▪ Sometimes slippery and dangerous

17. CONCLUSION

In short, a wooden floor is much more than just a floor covering. It is a centerpiece, a mark that
adds an aesthetic value and timeless elegance that is practical to any country interior or a wood
brings whether it is an old house modern urban loft, a one dimension of refinement which but of
fashion -non- passable floor.

pg. 31