Machine Translated by Google

Optimization of the Max electrics

It's amazing how many Mäxes keep getting stranded because of electrical problems. That
doesn't have to be the case. The Max's electrics are very simple and, when in good condition,
extremely problem-free. Nevertheless, there are of course some things that can be improved.
After I reworked the entire electrical system as part of my maximum restoration, I would like
to pass on some tips and suggestions here.

Wiring harness
Good PVC insulated 1.5 mm2 vehicle cables according to DIN 72551 are available in all colors
from relevant retailers. I used a generously sized PE shrink tube as the cable conduit, which
still sits loosely over the cables after shrinking. This looks original, but is more flexible and
temperature-resistant than a PVC hose. When it comes to the cable harness, it is crucial that
all clamped cable ends are provided with a wire end sleeve. Under no circumstances should
you solder it. The soft solder does not produce a good mechanical connection and can also
oxidize.
I removed the original screw
terminal on the alternator
through 3
Temperature-resistant
ceramic chandelier terminals
replaced. These are available
for halogen systems from
electrical retailers. This
means I only have one cable
per terminal with a simple
color assignment. This
means you can connect the
cables safely at any time,
even without a circuit
diagram. I also wanted to
separate the cable harness
from the rear. By the way,
luster terminals are much
better than their reputation.
The connection is
absolutely reliable when using wire end sleeves.
For a better ground connection across the steering head bearing, an additional ground cable
should be integrated into the wiring harness. This is attached to the headlight screw
connection at the top and to the alternator screw connection at the bottom. It is also
recommended to attach a separate ground connection to the speedometer housing. Otherwise
there is a risk that the reverse current from the speedometer lighting will damage delicate
parts of the speedometer mechanism.

© Holger Gryska
Machine Translated by Google

Power supply
I would like to start with the battery. It is well known that maintenance-free lead
batteries are extremely problem-free and comfortable. You can also leave it installed
in winter and the Max will start reliably in spring. Regarding the battery type, I can
recommend 2 options:

1) Two Fiamm FG10451 (6V, 4.5 Ah) are placed next to each other as in the picture.
Depending on the series (12V, 4.5 Ah) or parallel connection (6V, 9.0 Ah), both
batteries can be operated with 6V and 12V on-board voltage.
2) A multipower MP7-6S like in the second picture also fits very well (6V, 7.0 Ah).

Since AGM batteries are maintenance-free and therefore closed, the end-of-charge
voltage must be strictly adhered to. Therefore they should only be operated with an
electronic regulator that is set to 6.8V or 13.6V. Since the self-discharge is small,
they are very
easy to care for.
As you can see in
the first picture, I
disconnect the
battery with a
switch and don't
remove it over
the winter. This
means you quickly
forget about the
battery issue,
which is very
tricky.

© Holger Gryska
Machine Translated by Google

The battery box is far away from the Max's center of gravity and is exposed to strong
vibrations. Although AGM batteries are more robust than conventional wet batteries,
they die suddenly and unexpectedly (e.g. due to a mechanical defect with internal cell
closure). In the morning the Max starts without any problems, but in the middle of the tour
the battery suddenly dies and the Max no longer makes a sound. Then only replacement will help.
If you don't want to carry a spare battery with you (it can also be a smaller one with less
Ah), the only option is to replace it regularly and preventively. The two batteries are
stated to have a lifespan of up to 5 years. My first FG10451 broke on a tour after 7 years.
So it's best to enter 5 years into the maximum maintenance calendar for replacement
after installation and then you can forget about the battery issue for many years.

In my battery box you can see a switch and a fuse on the right. I also use the switch as a
theft protection. The Max's original power supply is very poorly fused. It is strongly
advisable to install two fuses in the immediate vicinity of the power sources: one in the
battery box and the other after the regulator, so that the alternator is not unregulated in
the event of a blown fuse (15A at 6V and 8A at 12V). Under no circumstances should
you use modern automotive flat fuses, but rather the so-called torpedo fuses. The former
are not resistant to strong vibrations.

The electronic
controller is exposed
to unnecessary
stress in the alternator
housing and should
be installed in the
headlight. To hold
it, I attached a
galvanized sheet of
metal to the headlight
screw connection.
The two wings of
the sheet metal
should be able to
swing freely to
dampen vibrations.
No modifications
are necessary to the
original wiring harness. The cables are just connected differently. Please see the attached
circuit diagram for my modified Max electrics for details.

© Holger Gryska
Machine Translated by Google

© Holger Gryska
Machine Translated by Google

The alternator regulator prevents reverse current from the battery into the generator. To
ensure that the generator is not completely de-energized before the engine is started and
its field coils are magnetized, the reverse current barrier is bridged via the charging control
lamp. If the charging indicator light burns out, there is a risk that the generator will not start.
This can be avoided by installing a resistor parallel to the charging indicator light. I chose
its value as U2 /0.6W (60ÿ at 6V, 1W or 2W version).

For the sake of completeness, I would like to mention that the Max alternator can easily be
operated with 12V. This requires a 12V regulator, 12V light bulbs and two series resistors
for the ignition coil and horn. For details I would like to refer to Norado's detailed article
from Maxfahrer 1/97.

ignition
What applies to the regulator also applies to the ignition coil. The thermal load in the
alternator housing is very high. I therefore recommend the optically almost invisible
installation of a cup coil on the frame under the tank above the cylinder head.
In addition to cooling, this has the additional advantage that the high-voltage cable is very...
is short. This ensures minimal losses. I glued a piece of foam rubber to the frame under
the ignition coil and secured the
ignition coil with a large hose
clamp. In addition, the coil is
fixed by the horn holder, which
had to be slightly filed for this.
When the tank is installed, the
coil is barely visible.
Unfortunately, I've had several
cheap ignition coils of unknown
origin break quickly. I strongly
recommend branded goods:
BERU ZS 215 (6V) or ZS 220
(12V).

Ignition performance can be

improved by using a modern
iridium spark plug (for example
NGK BR8HIX). The extremely
temperature-resistant iridium
enables a much slimmer needle-
shaped electrical plug compared
to conventional spark plugs.

© Holger Gryska
Machine Translated by Google

rode. This enables a stronger ignition spark, which ensures noticeably improved starting
behavior and better running smoothness. The expensive purchase is amortized by the
longer shelf life. This spark plug is only available with interference suppression. Therefore,
please make sure that the spark plug connector is not suppressed or is no more than 1kÿ
suppressed. Bosch and NGK have a slightly different working range even with the same
heat value. This can be a problem with a performance-enhanced engine. The only thing
that helps is to try it out.
The ultimate is an additional, maintenance-free, fully electronic ignition
instead of breaker and centrifugal governor. A well-maintained interrupter ignition with a
branded breaker works the same way.

horn
The radio interference suppression capacitor in the
picture below is almost certainly broken after 50 years.
A suitable replacement is available, for
example, from Conrad Elektronik under
order number 45 61 28. This is an integrated
resistor/capacitor combination (0.047µF/
100ÿ). After replacing and retuning the
oscillation circuit damping screw (far right in
the picture above; can be adjusted on the
back of the horn), my horn is loud again.
As you can also see in the picture, there is
enough space on the right to integrate a
series resistor for 12V operation into the
housing. The exact value must

can be determined by a measurement test as described by Norado in the cited article. In

my case it is 1.6ÿ. The components can be glued in the horn with vinegar-free silicone.

© Holger Gryska