Rapunzel Pequwña Amigu

Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Rapunzel
Crochet Pattern
This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka

@chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot!
1
A message for you!

Hello dear fellow crocheters! My name is Chiara (pronounced “Kiara”, as I’m Italian) and I’m not
only the girl in the picture down there but, most importantly, the person behind the Instagram
account @chiacrafts!
In the very beginning crochet was, for me, nothing more than a Sunday hobby, useful to keep my
mind busy and far away from disaster fantasies. When I first opened my Instagram account, I’d
have never imagined achieving such success, but it quickly grew and many people expressed
interest in reproducing my creations :D, which brought me to start typing down and sharing my
patterns!
These free patterns are a token of my appreciation for your support, a present for you. Overall
they are written with accuracy and style very close to my paying patterns: this is, IMO, one more
reason to respect them! Please, pay attention to the instructions reported in the license, and try to
comply with my wishes indicated there:)
Just let me thank you once again for your love and support. You’re all a source of great
motivation for me!
Cheers,
Chiara
2
Licence
Hello, and thank you for being about to try out this pattern! It was made with a lot of love and
personal effort :)
Here are a few rules and advice you’d REALLY better read and keep in mind ;)
DO NOT copy or redistribute this pattern in ANY form. Unauthorized translations are also
prohibited.
The fact this pattern has been provided to you for free DOESN’T MEAN it’s copyright free or that
you can do whatever you want with it. On the contrary, the fact it’s a present should motivate you
to respect it even more! This document can only be found in my Ravelry shop (link in the header).
If you found it in any other location you’re reading an unauthorized copy: please download
another one from the official location.
DO NOT reuse my pictures.
DO NOT use it as a base to create your original characters. Remember that my wish is for this
free pattern to be used to reproduce this character only: if you do it for practice, please keep it off
social media :) You’re allowed, however, to use it as a support to crochet other of my
princesses' patterns (in case you’d need more complete tips or the new shape of the head).
This pattern is intended for personal use only.
Please give me credits when posting online by always adding “Pattern by @chiacrafts” and
#chiacraftspatterns (both). If you don’t post online, I would very much like to receive a picture of
your work anyway :D
Please respect my copyright, my wishes and my hard work. Support me and help me carry on
this activity. Thank you for listening :)
For any doubt, you can contact me via PM on Instagram or by email. I DO NOT answer questions
via private message on Ravelry, but you have all the information to contact me otherwise. I
always answer :)
3
stacking concentric layers. There aren’t parts

worked in joined rounds in this pattern.
Read Me! When working in rows, instead, at the end of each

row you should turn your work and proceed in the
opposite direction: the first st of a row should,
Pay attention to the details! therefore, be worked in the last stitch of the
previous row, thus proceeding zig-zag and
creating a 2D shape. When working in rows, you
Take a good look at all the pictures and don’t be
should always make a turning chain at the end of
afraid to re-do some parts. Luckily, they’re so
each row of sc to help you better turn your work.
small it’s quite fast :)
This turning chain might not be always explicitly
It's a good practice to read the whole document
reported in the pattern, but it’s visible in the
before starting. Knowing what to expect will
diagrams.
help you pay attention!
The only case where you should NOT make a
turning chain is when you make a decrease at the
beginning of a row (you skip the first stitch and
Tips and Tutorials start working in the second).
When working in rows, after a chain, always start
You find quick video tutorials on how to work in from the second loop from hook, if not specified
rounds, rows and how to execute all the basic otherwise.
stitches in my Youtube channel. I advise you to Also, both when working in rows and working in
have a look in case you should be unsure about rounds, work the stitches always through the
how to work. Anyway, all the stitches are quite entire stitch, not in the back loops or front loops
standard, so you might as well just type the name only, unless specified otherwise.
of the stitch on google, and follow the first
tutorial popping out.
You also find some useful tips related to my
patterns in my Instagram guides. I strongly
For left-handed people
recommend taking a look if this is the first time
If you’re left-handed, everything is mirror-like for
you’re following one of my patterns! This
material is constantly evolving: I keep improving you!
in explaining myself and I keep enriching it. That's Right-handed people should work in the round
why I'm not linking any post to specific parts of clockwise, keeping the crochet hook between
the document. them and the work. Left-handed people should
work in the round counterclockwise keeping the
work between them and the crochet hook.
Rounds and Rows Right-handed should work in rows proceeding
from right to left, left-handed should work from
Parts of this pattern have been worked in Rounds, left to right. Therefore, you can easily follow this
others in Rows.
pattern keeping in mind to always swap
instructions specularly: for example, if I say that
When working in rounds, the first stitch of a
round must be worked upon the first stitch of the the stitch marker should be placed on the left side
previous one, thus proceeding in spiral and of the doll, that makes it the right side for you,
creating a 3D hollow shape. This technique is and so on.
known as continuous rounds.
Another way of working in rounds is the joined
rounds one: in this case, you start each round
with a chain, work the first st in the stitch right
below the chain, and you end each round with a sl
in the first st. You don’t proceed in a spiral, but by
4
Tip: measure your gauge

Stitch marker usage Measure the dimensions of your stitches or
I place the stitch marker on the LAST st of the compare them with those of the rest of the project
to understand if you’re proceeding well.
round. I.E.: in my patterns, it marks the end of the
For example: the stitches of the wig are smaller
round.
than those of the head, despite the indications
said to work it with the same tension? It will most
likely not fit :)
Don’t work inside out! If you’re planning on making more characters of
the same series, and you want to make them all
If you’re working correctly and you’re right alike, don’t forget to keep another doll close so
handed, you should work clockwise keeping the you can compare the sts dimensions and adjust
crochet hook between you and the work your gauge.
(counterclockwise if you're left-handed). If you’re Tiny variations in the thickness of the yarn, your
right handed and you’re working counterclockwise mood, but also other factors such as lighting,
keeping the work between you and your crochet together with your natural improvement as a
hook, then you’re working inside out. You’ll have a crafter, can play a role in impacting your gauge.
hard time following this pattern if you do so, I’d That’s perfectly normal! Just take your time to
suggest you correct it. adjust it if needed.
YU vs YO stitches
Some parts in this pattern are worked YU (Yarn
Under) i.e. using the “X” stitch. Others are worked
YO (yarn over), i.e. using the “V” stitch.
You find more info about the two in the dedicated
post in my IG profile.
The choice of stitch type is mainly aesthetical and
doesn’t impact the result more than how a change
in gauge would. Feel free to follow it all using
only 1 kind of stitch, if that makes you more
comfortable.
Gauge
I used to work the body of my dolls extremely
tight. Since it’s not easy to work as tight as I do
and I want to make my patterns as reproducible
as possible, for this series I tried loosening up my
tension a bit. Using the “x” stitch helped a lot! The
fact the stitch is “fuller” allows me to work a bit
more relaxed while still avoiding annoying holes
in the fabric.
The pattern is still to be worked tight, but don’t
go crazy or finger-breaking ;)
5
Abbreviations
* These are standard US standard abbreviations
+ something I’ve made up to ease the reading.
★ R = Round (continuous or joined)
★ Row = row
★ MR = Magic Ring
★ st = stitch
★ sk = skip
★ sc = single crochet
★ inc = sc increase (invisible sc increase, i.e.
1st sc in FL, 2nd through the entire st
when working in rounds, [2 sc] through
the entire st when working in rows)
★ dec = sc decrease (invisible sc decrease
when working in rounds, sc2tog when
working in rows)
★ dc = double crochet
★ hdc = half double crochet
★ ch = chain
★ sl = slip stitch
★ tr = treble crochet
★ BLO = back loop only (corresponds to the
inner loop when working in rounds)
★ FLO = front loop only (corresponds to the
outer loop when working in rounds)
★ [ ] = means that the stitches are to be
done in the same loop or stitch
★ CY-PO = cut the yarn and pull it out from
the stitch
★ IJ = Invisible Join
★ FO = fasten off (CY-PO + IJ)
★ stsc = standing sc
★ tch = turning chain
★ rc = rising chain
6
Anyhow, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn

much thicker than indicated, to avoid a sloppy
Materials result: maximum 1 size bigger!
★ 2.0 mm hook
★
★
Tapestry needle
8mm black safety eyes
Dimensions
★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other) Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most
★ Yarn all in the same size of the following importantly, working tight!!!), the finished
colors: amigurumi will be about 13x5 cm.
○ Peach (skin)
○ Mustard (hair)
○ Pink (dress)
○ Antique pink (dress)
○ Violet (dress)
○ White (dress)
○ Grey (pan)
○ Tiny scraps of black to work the
eye embroidery
Note on the eyes

The right safety eye size depends on the doll’s
dimensions! Don’t purchase 8 mm eyes if you’re
not sure the dimensions of your doll will be
similar to mine. My advice is to purchase a box
with many different sizes, and use the one which
better suits your doll. Approximately, safety eyes
should be 2.5 stitches wide.
Note on the yarn

I used YarnArt Jeans, which is a yarn made to be
worked with a 3 or 3.5 mm hook (it comes only in
1 size, so you can’t go wrong). As usual when
working amigurumis, I’ve used a hook 1 size
smaller than indicated to better work the body
tight, thus avoiding holes in the crochet from
which the stuffing would be visible or fall
through.
You should get a good result with this pattern
as long as you stick to one yarn brand/size, work
the body tight with a hook 1 size smaller than
indicated, and scale the other hooks accordingly.
7
R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18)

R17: 18 sc (18)
Legs R18: 18 sc BLO (18)

It’s important for you to work R18 BLO, the skirt
Hook: 2.0 will be worked in the FLs left!
Work tight R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16)
Work YU Booty finished :)
Start with peach yarn R20: 16 sc (16)
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14)
R2-R13: 6 sc (6) R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)
Make 2 legs.
R23: 2 sc, 1 sc changing to peach, 1 sc, dec, 4 sc
The legs don’t need stuffing!
dec (10) (the color change should fall on the
CY-PO after making the first leg. Leave a long tail
in case some sewing should be needed. back)
Don’t cut the yarn after making the second leg Wait before stuffing the body.
instead; you’ll keep on working from there to join R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)
the legs.
Make 2.
Body
Hook: 2.0 Stop to work a row of white surface slip stitches
Work tight between R22 and R23, on top of the color
Work YU change. Do these sl before stuffing up to that
Work starting from the 2nd leg made. point! Work using a 2.0 hook, but very loosely.
Change color to antique pink
Proceed this way all along the color change line,
Join the legs:
R14: 3 sc in 2nd leg, ch2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in end with an IJ:
back side of the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16)
(Start working in the 1st leg from the 1st st of
R13!)
You can also add some embroideries:

R15: 16 sc (16)
Now we’re enlarging to create the booty!
8
R32: 1 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 20 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc

(40)
Here’s an example of a possible adaptation.
R32: 1 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 20 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc
4 sc, 1 inc (40)
R33-R34: 40 sc (40)
Your work should look as in the following picture.
Mark two spots at a distance of 7 stitches (1st
Then, stuff the body. stitch marker on the 1st, second on the 7th). This
Then keep working in peach color: distance will correspond to the distance between
R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6) the eyes,
Now 2 rounds for the neck
R26-R27: 6 sc (6)
Neck done, now we start the head
R28: 6 inc (12)
R29: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
R30: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
R31: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 12 (36)
This is how your work should look so far: should
be a flat disk.
In R32, we’re going to work some increases on You’re going to work sc until right before the 1st
the front and single crochet on the back. Mark 20 stitch marker, then 1 dec, then 7 sc, then 1 dec,
sc on the back of the doll. On the back, you’re then end the round with sc. In my case, the
going to work 20 sc, from one stitch marker to the pattern ended up being:
other. On the front, you’re going to work some R35: 3 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 26 sc (38)
increases placed at a distance of 4 sc. You might R36-R41: 38 sc (38)
need to change the way you distribute these R42: (17 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (36)
increases before and after the end of the round Stop and place the safety eyes between R36 and
based on where you find yourself at the end of R37 (count 6 rounds from the top, it will be
R31. easier) 7 sc apart:
TIP: while stuffing the head, it’s possible that the

I did: eyes will tilt towards the outside. It’s a good trick
9
to straighten them and indent them using some

skin color threads passing inside the head! I
advise you to place them now, before adding the
eyes.
Cut two long threads and pass them as in the
following picture, at 1 st distance from the hole
where you’re going to place the eye (always on
the inner side!).
Stuff below the indentation threads.

I first pull out the threads, and I stuff the lower
part of the head, then I pull the threads back in
(from the back of the doll),
Then proceed placing the eyes and making the

eye embroidery (you can find a generic video
tutorial on how to make the embroidery in my
Instagram profile).
The peach threads will be used to indent the

eyes. For the time being, pull them out the back of
the doll.
and I stuff the rest while closing up the head.

The top of the head should be stuffed firmly:
don’t neglect the last rounds.
The lower part of the head ends up being slightly
lighter stuffed than the upper one, since it’s
stuffed as just shown whereas, while closing the
top, I keep pushing stuffing in with my scissors
until the surface is well stretched (proper stuffing
can increase the height of the forehead of your
doll up to 1 cm!).
10
Keep on working the head:

R43: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)
R44: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)
Stuff while closing the head! It must be stuffed Skirt
firmly, don’t neglect the last rounds.
R45: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18) Hook: 2.0
R46: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12) Work loosely
R47: 6 dec (6) Work YU
CY-PO leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a Start with violet yarn, you’ll also need white and a
tapestry needle, pass the tail through all the FLs bit of pink
of the last round, and pull. Make a knot and hide Start working in one of the FLs left at R17, on the
back of the doll. Keep the body upside down and
the yarn inside the doll’s body.
work clockwise
Last, pull the peach threads to indent the eyes, fix

them with a knot behind the head and hide the
tails inside the head (there’s a video in my
Instagram profile).
Here’s the result so far!
R1: 1 stsc, 17 sc (18)
R2: (1 sc, inc) x 9 (27)

R3-R6: 27 sc (27)
R7: (8 sc, 1 inc) x 3 (30)
R8-R11: 30 sc (30)
R12: Work FLO: 30 sc (30)
R13: 30 sl (30)
11
Using white yarn and 2.0 hook, make a round

parallel to R12, working in the BLs left.
R12//: stsc, (ch 3, sc in next BL) x 30
Arms
Hook: 2.0
Work tight
Work YU
Start with peach yarn, you’ll also need pink and
antique pink
R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)
R2-R3: 5 sc (5)
Change to pink
R4: 5 sc (5)
R5: 5 sc BLO (5)
R6-R9: 5 sc (5)
Change to antique pink
R10: 5 sc BLO (5)
R11: 1 sc, 1 popst, 1 sl, CY-PO (5)
The popcorn stitch (popst) is made of 4
incomplete dc, then you YO and pass through 5
loops on your hook. Work it extremely loose and
pop out the stitch once complete.
You just created a poofy shoulder.
The arms don’t need stuffing.
Make 2.
Using white yarn, work in the FLs left:
(ch 2, 1 sl) x 5
I’ve then added two simple lines in pink to make a
decor on the dress:
Then sew them or glue them to the body.
12
Hair wig
Hook: 2.0
Work loosely
Work YO
Work with mustard yarn
Work in rows (don’t forget the tch!):
Row1: chain 41 (40) Then, turn around the base and work
Row2: 40 hdc (40) 13 sc
The strand you’ve just made should be roughly as towards the end of Row1.
long as the doll. Adjust your gauge or make it
longer if needed!
From here, work:

ch 41, working in this chain: 20 hdc, 20 sc
Row2-Row13: Work BLO: 40 hdc (40)

This piece should be long enough to cover the
back of the head from side to side (you’re gonna
add one more single crochet row later on).
If needed, add more rows, but pay attention to
keep their number odd.
Then work
40 sc
on the side, till you find yourself close to the
starting tail.
13
Without cutting the yarn, work the following part Using a tapestry needle, pass through 13 small
in rows (don’t forget the tch!): loops on the top (1 per row you worked).
Row1: ch 21 (20)
Row2: 20 sc (20)
Row3: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (15)
Row4: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (12)
Row5: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (9)
Row6: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (6)
Row7: 3 dec (3), don’t make a tch
Row8: sk 1, 1 dec (1)
CY-PO Pass your needle all the way through, keeping a
This creates this half-crescent shaped part: small loop at the beginning.
Work slip stitches until you find yourself at the Then pass the tapestry needle inside this loop to
beginning or Row1 of this piece. close the wig and pull.
Here’s the final result:
This is how the wig looks like:
Glue it or sew it on top of the head.
14
Congratulations, your
Rapunzel is ready!
Don’t forget to send me a picture and tag me /
give me credits / use my hashtag when posting
online!
All info is in the license!
Look at the differences with my previous version…

and remember it’s worth it to keep practicing!
Pan
Hook: 2.0
Work tight
Work YU
Start with grey yarn
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: 6 inc (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: 18 sc BLO (24)
R5: ch 11, 10 sc from second loop from hook of
the ch you’ve just made, sl in next sc of R4, FO
15

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka

A message for you!

This pattern is intended for personal use only.

stacking concentric layers. There aren’t parts

Read Me! When working in rows, instead, at the end of each

Tip: measure your gauge

Anyhow, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn

Materials result: maximum 1 size bigger!

Note on the eyes

Note on the yarn

R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18)

Legs R18: 18 sc BLO (18)

You can also add some embroideries:

R32: 1 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 20 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc

TIP: while stuffing the head, it’s possible that the

to straighten them and indent them using some

Stuff below the indentation threads.

Then proceed placing the eyes and making the

The peach threads will be used to indent the

and I stuff the rest while closing up the head.

Keep on working the head:

Last, pull the peach threads to indent the eyes, fix

R1: 1 stsc, 17 sc (18)

R2: (1 sc, inc) x 9 (27)

Using white yarn and 2.0 hook, make a round

Then sew them or glue them to the body.

From here, work:

Row2-Row13: Work BLO: 40 hdc (40)

This is how the wig looks like:

Glue it or sew it on top of the head.

Look at the differences with my previous version…

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