COURSE: WOOD FINISHING

TECHNOLOGY
COURSE CODE WTE
284
COURSE CREDIT HOURS
Lecturer 2

Lectur Tutori
Practice or Laboratory
Contact e al
Hours
1 0 3

1
 Course Description:
Preparing the surface of wood for finishing; Wood fillers;
Stains; Types of finish & finishing materials; Film forming
substances; Coloring substances; Blond & bleached wood
finishing and methods of applying finishing materials.

Course Objectives
Develop an ability to select an appropriate finishing material
Develop an ability to solve problems related to finishing material
Develop skills in applying finishing materials by using brush and spray gun
Solve problems regarding application of finishing materials

2
 Course content
Chapter 1: Prepare the surfaces of wood for finishing
1.1. Introduction: Why do we finish wood?
1.2. Procedure for preparing the surfaces of wood
1.3. Tools and Materials used for preparing surface for finishing
Chapter 2: Wood fillers
2.1. Types of filler
2.2. Filling pores with paste wood filler
2.3. Filling pores with the liquid finish
Chapter 3: Wood stains
3.1. Classification of stains
3.1.1. Water stain
3.1.2. Oil stain
3.1.3. Sprit stain
3.1.4. None-Grain Raising (NGR) stain
3.1.5. Chemical stain

3
Chapter 4: Types of finish & finishing materials
4.1. Types of finish
4.1.1. Transparent finish
4.1.2. Opaque finish
4.1.3. Imitation finish
4.2. Finishing materials
4.2.1. Varnish
4.2.2. Shellac
4.2.3. Lacquer
Chapter 5: Film forming substances
Chapter 6: Coloring substances & bleaching finish
6.1. Types of color
6.2. Bleached finish

4
 Assessment/Evaluation & Grading
System

 Quizzes/ Assignments/lab report………………………….50 %

 Final exam ………………………………………………….. 50 %

Note: Attendance Requirements: A student must attend at least 85 % of the

classes

5
 Literatures
1.Sam Allen “Wood Finisher’s Handbook” sterling
publishing com. Inc. 1984.
2.Wood Finishing with George Frank Sterling publishing
Co. Inc. New York 1988.
3.Bob Flexner “Understanding Wood Finishing” The
reader’s Digest Association, Inc. 2005.
4.Any Woodwork & Carpentry and Joinery books.
5.Unpublished handout which will be given in due time of
the course.
N. B. Students are strongly advise to read books!!!

6
 CHAPTER 1

PREPARING THE SURFACES OF WOOD

FOR FINISHING
Definition:
Finishing is the application of decorative as well as
protective materials on to the surfaces of wood.
Finished wood is decorative because it adds beauty to the
wood.
It is also protected because finishing materials have the
property of protecting a wood (to some extent) from dirt,
grime, entering and leaving moisture, acids, alcohol, fire and
other external factors.

7
 Cont’d
1.1. Introduction: Why do we Finish Wood
There are three good reasons for finishing wood:
 To help stabilize it
 To decorate it.
 To help keep it clean

Sanitation
 Wood is a porous material. It contains countless holes of
various sizes. These can accommodate dirt & grime from
handling, atmospheric contaminants, and food.

 Grimy wood is unattractive, and it can be a health hazard,

making it less susceptible to soiling and easier to clean.

8
Stabilization
 Besides being porous, wood is hygroscopic; it absorbs and releases
moisture.

 Wood responds to changes in the level of moisture around it. If you put
very dry wood in water or in an area of high humidity, the wood will
absorb moisture and swell.

 Moisture with in wood is called moisture content; moisture in the

environment is either liquid water or liquid vapor (humidity).

 |If you put wood that has high moisture content in a relatively dry
climate, the wood will release moisture and shrink. These dimensional
changes, commonly called wood movement:

 The stresses causes splitting, checking. Warping and

weakening.

9
 Cont’d
Therefore, A finish slows moisture exchange, thus
reducing the stresses and stabilizing the wood.
•As a general rule, the thicker the coating of finish
the better it limits moisture exchange.

Decoration
• In addition to stabilizing wood and protecting it from dirt
and grime, finishing wood is decorative.

 Even if you apply nothing more than simple oil or wax finish, you
are making a decorative choice. There are an infinite number of ways
you can decorate wood, but all can be grouped into three categories:
• Color,
• Texture, and
• Sheen.

10
A. Color Cont’d
There are four ways you can apply color to wood.
 If you change the color through chemical reaction, it is called Bleaching
or chemical staining.
Bleaching takes the color out of the wood; leaving it almost white.
Chemical stains react with chemicals natural to the wood or added to the
wood to change color
If you apply a colorant directly to wood, it is called Staining.
Stain applied to bare wood amplifies the figure and grain of the wood.
Stain also highlights problems in the wood, such as scratches, gouges,
machine marks and uneven density.

If you apply a colorant between coats of finish, it is called, glazing.

Glaze can be manipulated with various tools to imitate wood grain,
marble, or other faux (false) effects.
 If you add a colorant to the finish itself and apply it to the wood, it is
called Toning or shading

11
 Cont’d
 Shading, Toning and Painting change the tone of the wood’s color
without highlighting pores and recesses.
 Shading and toning allow you to see the figure and grain of the wood.
Painting totally obscures the wood’s features

B. Texture
 All woods have a natural texture dependent up on the size and
distribution of the pores.

• You can preserve this texture by keeping a finish very thin. This
thin-finish look is very popular.
• It’s often called a natural wood look, and it is what you get when you finish
with oil or wax. And can get the same look with film finishes, such as
varnish, shellac, lacquer, or water

• By filling or partially filling the pores, can completely alter the texture of
the wood (paste wood filler).

12
 C. Sheen Cont’d
 Sheen is the amount of gloss the finish has. This is by
rubbing or polishing the cured finish to the sheen you
want.

13
1.2. Procedure for preparing the surface of wood
 A quality finish is impossible to obtain if you don’t prepare the wood
properly.

 Most woodworkers dread (feel extremely frightened the preparation

steps) and skips (skip: move with small hopping steps) through them
and get a poor finish as a result.

 Others spend more time and effort than they need to scraping,
sanding, patching, steaming out dents, and more sanding. Both
extremes are probably due to a lack of understanding of what needs
to be achieved.

 Therefore, preparing the surface of wood for finishing is the first &
important operation before applying finishing material.

 Generally there are three steps to prepare the surface of wood for
finishing. These are: Cleaning, leveling, and smoothing.

14
 Cont’d
1. Cleaning:
 Excess glue around joints by using sharp chisel.
 Glue spots on the surface by scraper.
 Any oil or grease should be cleaned by scraper and other
sharp tools.
2. Leveling: it is inspect the surface from dents &
irregularities
 Small dents can be raised by applying hot water or alcohol.
 Machine marks and small irregularities can be scraped and
Cracks, nail, or screw holes and other irregularities be filled.
Smoothing:
Scrape and/or Sand the surface thoroughly.
The scraping and Sanding is usually done
with/along the grain. Never sand or scrape across the grain.
15
 Additional points on surface preparation

How to use sand paper?

 The most important principle to remember in the use of sand paper is
that all the sanding should be with the grain. Never make circular, across
the grain, oblique. Since it makes strokes with sand paper as scratches
always resulted.
• Sanding block should be used in sanding in order to apply
uniform pressure and greater pressure.

Sponging and Re-sanding

 Beauty and clearance of the grain can be secured by sponging water and
re-sanding.
• This is done to damp and raised the grain/ fuzz on all surface that are to
be finish the product excellent surface finish.
16
 Squaring process
The 6 Steps: -
1.Select the 1st and the best face and square it.
2.Select the 1st and the best edge and square it.
3.Select the 1st end and square it.
4.Select 2nd end and square it.
5.Select the 2nd edge and square it.
6.Select the 2nd face and square it.

Note : (Use sand block during sand in order to apply equal pressure on the
surface of the wood)

17
 Cont’d
1.3. Tools & Materials used for preparing surface for
finishing
A. Scraper
There are two kinds of scraper. Namely: -
Plane scraper and
Hand scraper
Note : We can also use broken glass as scraper, but it is not recommended.

B. Abrasive or sand paper: It is not recommended for cleaning and the

basic elements to make sand paper or abrasive are:

I. Backing: it is paper or fabric

II. Abrasive bond: is the type of glue/bond w/c joins the back & the18
abrasive.
III.Abrasive grain: is the material itself that stand the unwanted part.
Note: all the types of abrasives are used for leveling & smoothing but, not
for cleaning.

18
 Size of abrasive grain

 Fine (8/0-2/0) =(00000000-00)

 Medium(1/0, 0, 1, 11/2, 2, or 0-2)

 Course (21/2, 3, 31/2, 4 or2-4) grades

19
 Chapter 2: Wood Fillers
 What ever woods have a natural texture that results from the
size and distribution of the wood pores.

 Some species, such as maple and cherry, have a smooth,

smooth
even texture because their pores are small and uniformly
distributed;
 And others, such as walnut and mahogany have a coarse,
even texture because their pores are fairly large and
uniformly distributed.
 Still other species, such as plain sawn oak and ash, have
uneven (alternately smooth and coarse)
coarse texture because
their pores vary in size (the spring growth pores are much
larger than the summer growth pores).

20
 Cont’d
 Though you often can’t make one wood like another (how
you apply a finish can affect the woods texture) as long as
you are using a film-finish.

 If you apply a finish thinly, the finished wood will have

almost the same texture as the unfinished wood. And,

 If you fill or partially fill the pores of the wood while you
are applying the finish, you can significantly change the
woods appearance.

21
 2.1. Types of wood fillers
o There are two common types of wood fillers. Namely:
paste fillers and liquid fillers.
o The paste and liquid fillers also called as grain/pore filler
and finish/clear filler respectively
o The traditional wood filler used by most woodworkers is
paste wood filler. However, liquid fillers provide additional
choices.
o Paste wood filler is composed filler material, binder, and usually a
colorant.
• The filler material, which does the actual filling, is silica,
calcium carbonate, and clay.
clay

• The binder, which glues the filler material with the wood, is
oil or varnish.
varnish

22
 Cont’d
 There are two types of paste wood fillers:
a) Oil-based and
b)water-based.

A. Oil-based fillers are easier to apply due to have more working

time. But, these fillers cause more problems when you apply a finish.
Since the finish doesn’t dry hard when you apply before the filler
while fully cured and the oil in the filler.

B. Water-based fillers are more difficult to apply due to it dry so

quickly but, there are rare problems applying a finish over them.
Because much easier removal of the excess filler, more control
over coloring the pores, better depth in most cases.

23
 2.2. Filling pores with paste wood filler Cont’d
 Walnut, oak, ash, and mahogany are some of the common hard woods that have large open pores.

 They are referred to as open-grain woods. For a smooth

surface finish these pores need to be filled with paste filler.

Procedures
1. Apply the paste wood filler with a stiff brush or putty knife.

2. Thoroughly coat the surface first, by brushing with the grain, and then
across the grain on a small surface.

3. Same how, spread it with your finger tips or the palm of your hand.

4. At a time (10-20 minutes) the filler will lose its wet or shiny appearance,

24
 Cont’d
5. The excess should be wiped off at this time. Use a coarse rag to
wipe across the grain.

6. Check whether the filler is in the pores of the wood not on the surface.

7. Use a rag warped around a small stick to remove excess filler from
corner and small openings.

8. Finish by wiping with/along the grain using very light pressure and after
dried overnight, it can be sanded lightly with fine sandpaper.

Note: Once the filler is hardened, it is difficult to remove. Therefore, apply

filler only to sections or areas that can be wiped before too harder. A cloth
lightly saturated with minerals sprits may be used to remove fillers that
have partially hardened, If not properly filled, repeat the operation after
1hr.

25
2.3. Filling pores with the finish
Cont’d
 Whenever paste filler is not desirable, clear/liquid filler may
be used to fill the pores of open-grained wood.
Procedures
1. Apply a number of coats of finish.
2. Sand them back until the dips in the pores become level,
3. Produce a bright and deep appearance, but considerable time
and effort are necessary for their application,
Note :
 If the final coat of the piece will be lacquer, it may be easier to
fill the pores with several coats of sanding sealer.
 Each coat should be sanded, but not through the finish.
 Clear fillers produce a deeper finish than paste filler, but require
more time and work.
 Clear fillers may be applied by brushes or spraying equipment.

26
 Chapter 3: Wood Stains
Definition
I.Any substance which can give color to the wood is called a stain.
II. Stain is a transparent finish. It put on wood to produce a particular
color and decorate qualities of the valuable species of wood.
III. Also it is applied to improve its appearance, durability and
preserve it, and sometimes to imitate the more expensive wood.

3.1. Classification of stains

Based on the solvents used in making them stains are classified into five
groups. These are:
Water & oir stains
Water stains, are used for school
Oil stains, purpose whereas, the
Sprit stains, remain three are used
 for industry type.
None-grain raising (NGR) stains, and
Chemical stains.
27
 3.1.1. Water stains:

 Any stain, whether pigment, dye, or both, which contains

a water-based binder is called water stain.
 These stains are composed of coloring matter soluble in
water and which have a water vehicle as the principal part
of the liquid.
 Water stains bring out the full beauty of the wood. It is
made by mixing dry powders in hot water.

 They come in a variety of colors and shades. The grain

of the wood should always be raised before using these
types of stains.

28
 Cont’d
Advantages of water stains
1.It is very easy to secure darker or lighter shades with water
stains. For a lighter tone dilute the stains with water. For darker
shades more powder or less water may be added to the stains.
2. It possible and safe to apply water stains hot.
3. Easy to changed to other different colors,
4.Water stains powders are very soluble, especially in hot
water.
5.More transparent, clear effects,
6.Brushes used in water stains are much more easily cleaned,
7. Water stains dries quickly,
8.Cheaper than any kind. Because the solvent, water, costs less
than turpentine or alcohol and other solvents used to dissolve
oil or sprit stains etc.

29
 Cont’d
Disadvantages of water stains

a. water stains require sponging and re-sanding in

preparation to avoid the fuzziness which, results to extra
expense.

b. The use of water in sponging and in the staining process

may have a tendency to loosen glued joints.

c. It is difficult to apply water stains with brushes on large

surfaces etc.

30
 Cont’d
Procedures in applying water stains
Apply water stains by any one of several methods such as
brushing, dipping, sponging, or spraying. Brushing and
spraying methods are used most popular.

When applying water stains with brush proceed as

follow:
1. Sponge all surfaces. Allow to dry and re-sand carefully.
2. Select a reasonably stiff brush. 5cm to 10cm wide.
3. Determine which parts should be stained first. In general,
start with most not visible parts, such as the back and the
inside of shelves.
4. Fill the brush well with stain.
5. Apply the stain evenly to the entire project. Do not forget
to test the color of the stain on a piece of scrap wood.
6. Allow the stain to dry. Water stains air dries in 12 hours.
31
 3.1.2. Oil stains:
 Any stain, whether pigment, dye, or both, that contains
an oil based binder.

 Oil stains are easy to apply.

 They are available in many colors and make an excellent

finish.

 Generally, they will not raise the fibers of the wood.

There are two types of oil stains. Namely:

I. Penetrating oil stain and

II.Pigmented oil stain.

32
 I. Penetrating oil stain: Cont’d

 This stain is brushed on and the excess is wiped off.

 A cloth pad can be used for the application.

 The stain should dry for 24 hours.

 The sealer is especially important on dark stains such as

mahogany or walnut to prevent from bleeding.

 Lighter tones can be produced by thinning or by

wiping dark stain immediately after application.

33
 Cont’d
II. Pigmented oil stain

 This stain is applied the same manner as penetrating stain.

 For heavy “tone” effects, allow to dries without wiping.

 It dries in about 12 hours, carefully study the manufacturer’s

directions.

 Try stain on scrap wood before applying it to your project.

 Use turpentine or turpentine substitute (mineral spirits) for a

thinner.

34
 Cont’d
Procedures to apply oil stains
1. Decide what color stain you want/need.
2. Pour some stain into a cup or other container.

3. Test the color, brush or wipe the stain on a scrap piece of

the kind of wood you will be staining. If the color is too
dark, lighten it by adding turpentine or synthetic thinner.

4. With a cloth pad or medium size brush, apply the stain to

the entire surface/project. Wipe or brush with long, even
strokes.

5. Wipe off the excess stain quickly with a cloth.

6. Let the stain dry overnight.

35
 Cont’d
3.1.3. Sprit stains:
 Contains alcohol or acetone soluble dyes. They dry quickly and set up
rapidly.
 Their use is generally limited to spray applications.

3.1.4. NGR stains:

 Industry uses a stain similar to sprit stain called NGR .
 It is fast drying like sprit stains but has a better clarity and fades
resistance.
 This stain is available only in liquid form and never contains a
binder.

3.1.5. Chemical stains:

 Any chemicals that colors wood by reacting with chemicals naturally
in the wood.

36
 Chapter 4: Types of finish and finishing materials
4.1. Types of finish
 Depending up on the species from which a wooden article is made, its
designation and the requirements that it must meet; the finish may be
made in various way/.
 In accordance with the existing classification the finish may be
transparent finish, Opaque finish, and Imitation finish.

4.1.1. Transparent finish:

o Is retaining the natural texture of the wood. It is employed when
manifesting articles of a variable species of wood or veneer articles.
o Is the most widely applicable in woodworking industries

o Its main purpose is to create a durable transparent, colored, or

colorless, smooth, shine or dull protective and decorative film on
the surface of the wood that appears decorative.

37
 Cont’d
4.1.2. Opaque finish

 Is closing the natural texture of wood. It is not as basic

finish which is used when there is heat, rain and extra.

 It has the aim of creating durable, opaque, colored,

smooth, dull protection, and decorative layer cancelling
the natural texture of wood on the surface of the wood.

 An opaque creating is used for articles made from cheap

species of wood looking a party texture for articles to be
used outdoors and also for articles designed for special
purpose, Such as kitchen furniture, hospital furniture etc.

33
 4.1.3. Imitation finish

 Is re–producing the texture and color of the variable

species of wood on cheapest of species.

 Is employed when manufacturing articles of cheap

soft and hard wood.

 Its aim is to create a new texture . In this instance the

protective and decorative film may be either opaque or
transparent.

39
 4.2. Transparent finish materials Cont’d
There are a number of transparent finishing materials. those
includes :-
a. Varnish: - common used
b. Lacquer: -common used
c. Shellac: - due too its difficulty to prepare it’s not popularly
used.
4.2.1. Varnish and its characteristics
 Varnish is one the transparent finishing materials made from
gum resins and oils(by cooking curing or modified semi-
curing oil with a resin).

 It has excellent quality of transparency, depth, durability, and

hardness.
 The purpose of varnish is:-
 For preservation or protection and
 For developing the decoration or beauty.

40
 Characteristics Cont’d
 It dries slowly and requires a dust free area when being applying and
while it is drying.
 It is easy to brush on the surface in a perfectly smooth film and dries for
re-coating from 24 to 48 hours.
 Varnish can also be applied by spraying, dipping, roller coating, or any
other processes.
 Varnish is the most protective and durable of the commonly available
finishing materials, but it is the most difficult of all finishing materials
to apply with good results.

 It forms a good barrier against water penetration and water-vapor

exchanges, and resists heat, wear, solvents, acids, and alkalis.
 Varnish made from oil and resin alone doesn’t cure fast enough to be
useful as a finish, so metallic driers are added to speed up the curing.

41
 Cont’d
 The driers act as a catalyst, accelerating oxidation. Originally,
lead was used as a drier

 Whichever oils and resins are used in making varnish, the

greatest difference is made by the ratio of oil to resin. The
more oil, the softer and more flexible cured varnish film are
resulted. The less oil, the harder and more brittle cured
varnish film are resulted.
 Varnish made with a high percentage of oil is called long-oil
varnish and is intended for out-door use,

 Varnish made with low percentage oil is called short -oil or

medium-oil varnish and is used in-doors, and a harder finish is
usually desired.

42
 Cont’d
Compositions of varnish
o The duration of drying is divided all varnishes in to three
distinct classes, namely: -
A. Spirit varnish: - it is either,
•Alcoholic solvent or
•Turpentine
B. Oil varnish: - it is also either,
•Long oil varnish
•Medium oil varnish
•Soft oil varnish

C. Synthetic resin varnish: - is alkyd resin varnish which is

type of varnish produced locally.

43
 Cont’d
Methods of applying finishing materials
Tools and materials used for hand applying methods are : -
Putty knife : -for paste filler
Sponge
Pad
Brush
There are two methods of applying finishing materials
1.Hand application and
2.Mechanical application

Mechanical applying method

There is a number of applying mechanical methods. These are:-
Mechanical brushes & rollers/ flat surface
The four are used for
Pulling through method specialized applications
Dipping method like factory and
Curtain coating method industries.
Spraying method: - is common in our wood work shop

44
 Cont’d
Spraying gun: - there are two types of spraying gun. Those are:
1. Outside air mixer and
2. Inside air mixer

45
 Cont’d
Applying varnish
Applying varnish may have several steps and may vary from
one finisher to another. But, the following steps are common:

1. Remove all hard wares to finish parts separately.

2. Dust all parts carefully with soft brush,

3. Pour a small amount of varnish in to a container/can. Don’t

shake the container/can or stir the contents; bubbles are
formed that will be carried by the brush on to the surface
being varnished.

4. The first step in brushing techniques is lying-in or cutting

in, start at the corners of the piece and brush toward the
center. Varnish flows best in the temperature range of 70 to
900 F (21to 320 C).

46
 Cont’d
5. The second step is to apply a full coat by cross brushing.
Begin at the side and brush toward the middle. Brush from
the second side, and lift the brush as soon as the strokes
over lap. Cross brushing is usually omitted on top surfaces
because the varnish flows together smoothly.

6. The third step is tipping. Wipe the brush, and then use
only the tip to finish lightly with the grain. Use a smaller
brush to finish edges; this prevents the bristles from
spreading over on to the top surface.

7. Pour all unused varnish into another container to store.

Never pour unused varnish back into the original
container because it may has accumulated dust and other
particles.

47
 Cont’d
8. Allow each varnish coats to dry completely before the
next one is applied. In damp weather more than two days
may be needed for drying. The usual time is around 24 to
48 hours.

9. Each coats of varnish should be sanded lightly with a very

fine sand paper.

10. When the final coat is dried hard, & complete the
finishing, rubbing and polishing the finishes,

48
 Cont’d
Brushing varnish
Here are some suggestions when apply varnish with brush
 Don’t do, your sanding and dusting in the same room where
you are about to apply the varnish.

 Put clean paper under your work.

 Strain the varnish if it is dirty or has formed skin.

 Be sure that your brush is clean.

 Be sure the wood’s surface is clean. Wipe it with a tack cloth or your
hand just before you start applying the finishing.
 If possible, make a cover to put over it or side it under something
that will block dust from landing.

49
 Cont’d
Steps and producers
1. Arrange your work so you can see what’s happening in a
reflected light source.
2. Pour enough sanding sealer or varnish to do the job into another
container (a jar or can) and work out of that container.

3. Coat one part at a time. When each part is coated, remove any
excessive varnish.
4. And brush on the first coat with the grain,

5. Allow the varnish to cure overnight in a warm room for each coat.

6. Sand the surface lightly with finer sand paper (320 or 400) .

7. Remove the sanding dust with a vacuumed or tack cloth.

50
 Cont’d
8. Working from a separate container, apply the next coat of varnish full
strength or thinned with 5 to 10 % mineral spirits to reduce bubbling.

9. Coat the other part at a time. When each part is coated, remove any
excessive varnish.

10. Brush on the first coat with the grain, & allow the varnish to cure and
can thin the varnish with 25 to 50 %mineral spirits etc.

11. When you are satisfied with the thickness of the finish, possible to
leave it as it is, or you can finish it with sandpaper, steel wool, or
rubbing compounds.

51
 4.2.2. Shellac
Cont’d
o Shellac is the most interesting of the wood finishes. It has a very long
history. For the 100years between the 1820’s and 1920’s, shellac was
used on almost all the furniture and woodwork made in US and Europe.
o It is easy to apply, and rubs out smoothly to make a fairly hard finish.

o The disadvantage of shellac finish is that, it is not water proof.

o Shellac sold in liquid form is either orange (called amber) or bleached

(called clear).
o Flake shellac is sold in a variety of colors ranging from “ruby-red” to
“blond” which has a slight yellow tint.
o Natural shellac resin is dark orange in color and contains about 5% wax
and other most shellacs.
o Use darker shellac on dark woods, Clear shellac is better for light or
bleached woods.

52
 Cont’d
o When you stir a can of amber shellac, the lighter colored
wax rises to the top and causes the finish to appear cloudy.

o That, wax makes clear shellac appear white, which account

for its traditional name, “white” shellac. The wax slightly
reduces the transparency, and less water resistant.

o The more thinner the shellac, the faster the wax will settle.

o To ensure maximum freshness and the best results on your

work, dissolve your own shellac from solid shellac flakes
and use the shellac within a few months.

53
 Cont’d
Brushing and Spraying Shellac
 Shellac is an evaporative finish. It dries entirely when its solvent,
alcohol, evaporates, and it re-dissolves on contact with alcohol. These
two characteristics govern how shellac should be applied.
1. Position your work so you have a light source reflecting off the
surface. This way you can see what’s happening by looking into the
reflection.

2. For your first coat use 1 pound-cut. It will be easy to brush or spray,
and less likely than a thicker coat to clog the sandpaper.

3. To brushing, use a good quality natural or synthetic bristle brush. On

flat surfaces, spread the shellac quickly in long strokes with the grain.
Shellac dries very quickly.

4. If you miss a place and the shellac has begun to dry, leave the gap
until the next coat.
54
 Cont’d
9. If you are using a spray gun, don’t leave shellac in an aluminum cup for
more than a few hours at a time due to the acidic shellac will react with
the metal and turn dark.

10. At least two hours, sand the first coat lightly with 280-grit or finer
sandpaper.

11. Sand enough to make the surface feel smooth.

12. Remove the sanding dust.

13. Finish till you are satisfied with the thickness of the film, and follow
the above procedure.

55
 4.2.3. Lacquer Cont’d
 Lacquer is still the most widely used furniture finish.

 When lacquer becomes available in 1920s, it was widely believed to

be the ultimate finish. Being an evaporative finish, it had all the easy
application and repair qualities of shellac, but it was more resistant
to water, heat, alcohol, acid, and alkalis.

 In addition, it was a synthetic, so its characteristics could be varied to

meet different needs.
 The thinner used with lacquer, lacquer thinner, could be varied in
strength and evaporation rate, making it enormously more versatile
than alcohol.

 Most lacquers are based on nitrocellulose (is the binder and gives the
finish its fast drying properties.

56
 Cont’d
However, nitrocellulose has poor build, isn’t very flexible,
and doesn’t bond well. So, a resin is added to improve
these poor qualities, and oily chemicals, called plasticizers,
are added to further improve flexibility

 Manufacturers vary the amounts and types of resins and

plasticizers to produce lacquers that dry with varying
degrees of elasticity, color, and resistance to water, heat,
solvents, acids, and alkalis.

 Generally, the more elastic, colorless and resistant the

lacquer is, the more it costs.

57
 Advantages of Lacquer Cont’d
1. Possibility for invisible repair.
2. Much reduced runs and sags when spraying.
3. Ease of achieving a dust-free, blush-free, and over-spray free
finish in all types of whether, With the addition of slower or
faster evaporating thinners
4. Ease of use in combination with stains, glazes, paste wood
fillers, and toners for a wide range of decorative effects.
5. Excellent depth and beauty.
6. Excellent rubbing/finish qualities/properties.
7. Relative ease of stripping/remove.
8. Very fast drying.

58
 Cont’d
Disadvantages of lacquer
o No finish is perfect, and lacquer has several significant problems.
These include the following:

1. Reduced protection and durability.

2. Slow build/ bonding.
3. Tendency to blush in humid weather.
4. The solvents are toxic, flammable, and air polluting.
5. Moderate heat, wear, solvent, acid, and alkali resistance.
6. Moderate water and water-vapor resistance.

59
 Procedures of applying lacquer Cont’d
o Lacquer is used as a finish on furniture, hardware, jewelry, all
automobiles, sport equipment’s, etc.
o It is best applied by brushing, dipping, or padding.
o The surface to be lacquered should be clean, dry and devoid of oil and
wax. The surface may first be under coated with shellac or lacquer
thinner.
Procedures
1. Thin the lacquer to be used with a recommended thinner (lacquer
thinner), use a proportion of two-part lacquer to three-parts thinner.

2. Adjust the nozzle of the spray gun until the desired spray is obtained.

3. Press and hold the trigger of the spray gun until the nozzle is 12-15mm

4. Above along the whole length of the surface with a slow motion.

5. Use a minimal amount to prevent lapping or lifting previous coats.

6. Clean the brush soon after use; thinner first and then water and soap.

60
 Chapter 5: Film forming substances
• Film-forming substances are those substances which serve as the basic
components of a finish.
• Their main purpose is to create a protective and decorative film/layer on
the surface of the article.

• These substances when dissolved in a corresponding solvent have the

property of well wetting the wood and spreading over its entire surface
forming a uniform layer.

The principal kinds of film-forming substances are:

 Resins,
 Drying oils,
Cellulose esters and ethers,
Wax,
Glue
61
1. Resins: Are the widest spread kinds of film-forming substances. They
possess the highest adhesive properties and create a gloss on the
surface. That is why they are included in almost all finish materials.

o Resins are divided into two groups. These are:-

A. Natural resins: are the products of physiological and/or pathological

excretions of various plants. They include tropical resins such as
shellac, sandarac gum, etc.

B. Synthetic resins: are the products of complicated chemical

compounds.
o The most widely used synthetic resins are glyptic resins, such as
colophony and its preparations, therpene and oxitherpene resins,
urea formaldehyde, phenol formaldehyde, unsaturated polyester
resins, and others.

62
 Cont’d
2. Drying oil
• Together with resins is one of the widest spread film-forming substances.
Films on their base are durable, elastic, water-proof, and heat resistant.
• They include vegetable oils such as linseed, hempseed, Tung- oil, and others

• Drying oils are used for making primers or first coats, fillers, paints, and
varnishes.
3. The cellulose esters
o Includes cellulose nitrate or colloidal cotton (the ester of nitric acid and
cellulose) and cellulose acetate (the ester of acetic acid and cellulose).

o Cellulose nitrate and acetate are used as film-forming substances when making
lacquers, paints, primers, and fillers.

o Film on nitrocellulose base has a high durability and is relatively water-proof

and heat resistant. it is used in paints and lacquers mainly together with resins.

63
 Cont’d
4. Wax
o As a film-forming substance is used more seldom than resins and
cellulose esters.
o It doesn’t possess the property of producing lustrous and durable
film.
o A wax film has a dull surface, is easily scratched and softens even
upon a very small increase in temperature.

 In respect to their origin, waxes are divided into two.

A. Natural waxes: are oils excreted by various plants (bee

wax, Chinese wax, etc.)
B. Synthetic waxes: they include:
1. Paraffin- a product of oil refining.
2. Kerosene- a product of processing mineral wax.

64
 Chapter 6: Coloring substances
o Coloring substances are any substances which can gives color to
the wood. They are two types. Namely;
1. Insoluble one called pigments and
2. soluble ones referred to as stains or dyes.
Pigments:

•Until recently, all pigments was finely ground colored earth,. Now,
most pigments are colored synthetic particles that resemble earth.
Because pigment is opaque.
It is used as the colorant in paint. Most commercially available
stains contain pigment.
• Pigment colors wood by lodging in depressions, such as pores,
scratches, and gouges(The larger the cavity, the more pigment
lodges, and the darker and more opaque)
65
 Dye Cont’d
o Is a chemical that dissolves in a liquid. All the color that remains
in the liquid after the pigment has settled is dye.

o Dye is a colorant found in such common substances as coffee, tea,

berries, and walnut husks,

o These and other natural materials, such as log-wood, alkanet root,

cochineal, and dragon’s blood were once used to color wood. Now, far
superior synthetic aniline dyes are available.

 Wood finish suppliers classify dyes by the solvent in which they

dissolve. There are four types of dyes. These are:
 Water-soluble dyes
 Alcohol-soluble dyes
 Oil-soluble dyes
 Non-grain-raising [NGR] dyes

66
 Cont’d
1. Water-soluble dyes: dyes which dissolve in water.

2. Alcohol-soluble dyes: dyes which dissolve in alcohol.

3. Oil-soluble dyes: which dissolve in strong petroleum-distillate

solvents, such as naphtha, toluene, and xylene, and also in
turpentine and lacquer thinner.

4. Non-grain-raising [NGR] dyes: dyes which dissolve in glycol

ethers (reacting alcohol with ethylene oxide or propylene
oxide).

67
 Pigment and Dye Analysis
Pigment
 Pigment lodges only in
scratches and pores large
enough to hold.
 Pigment is very resistant to
fading.
 Pigment always has to be
combined with a binder to glue
the pigment particles to the
wood
 Pigment obscures the wood
when the excess is left on the
surface.
Cont’d
Dye
 Dye penetrates everywhere more or
less equally along with the liquid it
is dissolved in.
 Dye fades fairly quickly when
exposed to strong ultra violet sun
light and somewhat slower in
weaker ultra violet fluorescent
light.
 Dye can be used with or without a
binder.
 Dye is transparent when the excess
is left.
68
 Theory of Color Cont’d
There are two theories of color;
 The Modern theory of color: Modern scientists in
experimenting have proved that Red, Green, and Violet-blue as
the basic or primary colors.

 The old theory of color: Red, Yellow, and Blue are the
primary colors and still the basic for mixing colors in many
trades and industries and is generally used in schools.

 Secondary colors: Red, Yellow, and Blue pigments when

mixed to produce new hues called secondary colors.
 Red and Yellow make Orange.
 Yellow and Blue produce Green.
 Red and Blue give Violet.
69
 Cont’d
o Tertiary colors By mixing the secondary colors; Orange, Green,
and Violet have a new series of hues known as Olive, Citrine,
Russet called tertiary colors.

 Green & Violet produce Olive (4 parts green to 1part Violet).

 Orange & Green produce Citrine (4 part orange to 1 part green)
 Orange & Violet combine to Russet (4part orange to 1 part violet)

o Quaternary colors : these colors are obtained by mixing together

tertiary colors in pair. Combining:

 Citrine and Russet; produce Buff.

 Russet and Olive produce Plum and
 Citrine and Olive produce Sage.

70
 Cont’d
 Complex mixed colors: Many other colors can be produced
by mixing together Primary, Secondary, and Tertiary colors
in various proportions.

 Neutral colors: Black or White, while not colors in the

ordinary sense, are known as Neutral colors.

 They can be used for contrasting effects with any of the other
colors and make a color harmony.

 Black and White are often mixed with any of the colors to make
tints and shades.
 When mixed together they make a Gray color.

71
 6.2. Bleached wood finishing
 Bleach refers to a number of chemicals that remove color, whiten, or
disinfect, often via oxidation. the Common chemical bleaches include:
 Household chlorine bleach (a solution of approximately 3-6% sodium
hypochlorite)
 Oxygen bleach (which contains either hydrogen peroxide or a peroxide-
releasing compound), and
 Bleaching powder (Calcium hypochlorite).

 Modern bleaches resulted from the work of 18th century scientists.

Many types of bleach have strong bactericidal properties, and are used
for disinfecting and sterilizing
 In most cases, bleaching is essentially a first-aid-measure, not a routine
part of refinishing,

 Piece of furniture should be bleached if the surface is marked by

stains, black rings, or water spots.

72
 Cont’d
 Bleaching can also be used to even the color of a piece of
furniture made with two or more woods. It can lighten the
darker wood to match the lighter one.
 Before you use bleach on any piece of furniture, make sure
the wood is suitable for bleaching.
 The bleaching processes use water solutions and they raise the
grain of the wood.

 After bleaching the surface may contain a bit of the

chemicals and it is well therefore to wash up immediately
with clean water, using a sponge.
 The surface should be allowed to dry at least twelve hours
before the finishing coats are put on.

73
 Cont’d
Choosing a Bleach
 Not all bleaching jobs call for the same type of bleach which
depending up on the problem you want to correct.

 Below are some of common bleach options you might want

to consider
A. Laundry Bleach: this mild bleach can solve most refinishing
color problems, from stain or filler not removed in stripping to
ink stains and water spots.
 Before you use stronger bleach on any piece of furniture, try
laundry bleach due to, it works slightly or doesn’t change the
color of the wood drastically.

B. Oxalic Acid Bleach: this bleach, sold in powder or crystal form,

is used to remove black water marks from wood.
 It is also effective in restoring chemically darkened wood to its
natural color.
74
 Cont’d
 You are not likely to encounter this problem unless you have a
piece of furniture commercially stripped

 The chemicals that discolor the wood, are not recommended for
non-professional to use.
 Oxalic acid must be used on the entire surface of the wood
 Oxalic acid is more effective in lightening open-grained wood
than closed-grained.

C. Two-part Bleaches: two-part commercial wood bleaches are used to

lighten or remove the natural color of the wood.

 Two-part bleach is very strong and must be used very carefully;

wear rubber gloves and safety goggles.
 This type of bleach is also expensive. Several brands are available.

Note: Generally, bleaches act quickly on soft woods and slowly on hard
woods.

75
 Project work
1. Prepare at least 5 piece of stock having 2cmX 20cm X
25cm dimension spacemen.
2. Make squaring process on it.

3. Apply one finishing material in one piece and other in the

next( each spacemen has to apply differ finishing materials)
three coating
4. Allow to dry (recommended to use oven dry method for
minimum 24 hours)
5. justify the difference and which finishing material is better
to use.
o lastly presentation and reporting is mandatory.

76