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ORIGINAL ARTICLE

Effect of weave, structural parameters and ultraviolet absorbers on


in vitro protection factor of bleached cotton woven fabrics
Abhijit Majumdar, Vijay Kumar Kothari, Achintya Kumar Mondal & Piyali Hatua
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, India

Summary

Key words: Introduction: The weave, fabric cover, areal density and ultraviolet (UV) absorbers are some of
cotton fabrics; fabric cover; ultraviolet the factors which influence the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of cotton fabrics. It will be
protection; UV absorbers; weave of interest to know whether fabric cover or fabric areal density is a better predictor of cotton
fabric UPF. It will also be of interest to know whether the UV absorbers are equally effective
Correspondence: for all kinds of cotton fabric.
Dr Abhijit Majumdar, Indian Institute of Objectives: To understand the role of weave, fabric cover, areal density and UV absorbers on
Technology Delhi, Hauz Khas, New Delhi, 110016 the UPF of cotton fabrics. To establish quantitative relationships between the fabric cover,
Delhi, India. areal density and UPF for cotton fabrics.
Tel: +91 11 26591405 Methods: Sixty-four woven fabrics were manufactured using different weaves, cotton yarn
Fax: +91 11 26581103 count and picks per centimetre values. Nonlinear regression models were developed to relate
e-mail: abhitextile@rediffmail.com the fabric cover and areal density with the UPF. The role of UV absorbers at different levels
of cover has been analysed.
Accepted for publication: Results: In case of bleached cotton fabrics woven with 40 Ne warp yarn count, 40 ends per
21 September 2011 cm, different weft yarn count (20–40 Ne) and picks per centimetre (15–27), weave does not
have a statistically significant effect on the UPF. Fabric areal density is a better predictor of
Conflicts of interest: UPF than the fabric cover.The UV absorbers are more effective when the fabric cover is high.
None declared. Conclusions: The developed equations relating fabric cover and UPF can be used as a primary
guideline while selecting fabrics for UV protection.

S kin cancer is one of the most prevalent forms of cancer. More


than 1 million cases of basal cell and squamous cell skin cancer
and around 50 000 cases of melanoma were expected to be newly
weighting factors namely solar spectral irradiance and erythemal
effectiveness. In contrast, in vivo method is based on living subjects
and the UPF calculation is done based on the minimal erythemal
diagnosed in 2007 (1).The main reason of skin cancer is excessive dose with and without textiles (5). Although the results of in vitro
exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation as a result of too much testing often differs with that of in vivo testing (6–11), the former
time spent under the sun.Athletes of outdoor sports such as skiing, is less time consuming, easy and cost-effective.A fabric having UPF
mountaineering, cycling or triathlon receive considerable doses of more than 40 is considered to give excellent protection against
solar UV radiation during training and competition and, there- solar UV radiation (AS/NZ 4399: 1996), whereas a value between
fore, they are highly susceptible to skin cancer (2).The exposure of 25 and 40 is considered to be very good. Unfortunately, some of
children to direct sunlight is even more dangerous as the protec- the summer clothing does not even provide good protection (UPF
tion system of human skin develops up to the age of 15. Ozone less than 15) against UV radiation (12, 13).
depletion in the earth’s atmosphere has aggravated the problem of UPF of textile fabrics is strongly dependent on the chemical
solar UV radiation. The extraterrestrial solar spectrum contains nature of the fibres (14–16). Natural fibres like cotton, silk and
UVC (100 nm to 280 nm), UVB (280 nm to 315 nm) and UVA wool have lower level of UV absorption capability than synthetic
(315 nm to 400 nm) radiation. However, UVC cannot reach the fibres like polyester as the latter has conjugate structure. Fabric
earth as it is absorbed by the ozone layer in the upper atmosphere cover %, weight or areal density and thickness are the important
if there is no ozone depletion. structural parameters which influence the UPF of fabrics (17–23).
Textiles and sunscreens are the two most popular and conven- Fabric cover indicates the percentage of fabric area which is
ient means to protect human bodies from solar UV radiation actually covered by the constituent yarns. High cover and areal
(3, 4). UV protection ability of a textile fabric is expressed by the density of fabrics facilitates the blocking and absorption of inci-
ultraviolet protection factor (UPF). There are two ways to deter- dent UV rays. Darker shades (black, navy blue) absorb large
mine the UPF of textiles namely in vitro and in vivo. In vitro method is amount of UV radiation resulting in good protection (24–26).
based on spectrophotometric measurement of UV transmission Application of UV absorbers (Rayosan C,Thiotan R,Tinuvin, etc.)
thorough fabrics and the UPF calculation is done by using two and UV blocking agents (TiO2, ZnO) also improve the UPF of

58 © 2012 John Wiley & Sons A/S


Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine 2012, 28, 58–67
Effect of weave and structural parameters on UPF

x x O x x O O x O O x x
O x x O x x O O x x O O x x
x O O x x x O x x O x x O O
x x x O x x O O x x O O

Plain weave 3×1 twill weave 2×2 twill weave 2×2 matt weave Fig. 1. Different weaves for cotton fabrics.

fabrics significantly (27–29). Stretching reduces the UPF of the Table 1. Sample preparation details
fabric during wear, as the effective fabric cover % is reduced (30).
Level of
Wetting, washing and laundering of fabrics also influence the UPF
Parameter parameter Details
of fabrics (31, 32). Most of the reported literature deal with fabrics
taken from the market and, therefore, the difference in manufac- Weave 4 Plain, 3 ¥ 1 Twill, 2 ¥ 2 Twill
turing process can not be ruled out. The quantitative analysis on and 2 ¥ 2 matt
Weft count (Ne) 4 20, 25, 30 and 40
the role of various structural parameters of fabrics is also lacking. Picks per cm 4 15, 19, 23 and 27
In this work, an attempt has been made to systematically
investigate the influence of weave, weft yarn linear density or
count, number of weft yarns per centimetre, fabric cover %, areal
density (g/m2) and UV protective finish on the UPF of woven absorbers, the fabric samples were treated with 4% Thiotan R
paste (Clariant Chemicals Ltd, Thane, India) following the pro-
fabrics. Predictive equations have been developed to predict the
cedure stated by the manufacturer.
UPF of bleached cotton fabrics from cover % and areal density.

Testing of samples
Materials and methods
All the fabric samples were tested for their ends and picks per
Fabric sample preparation centimetre value using pick counting glass. For measuring the
flattened diameter, yarns were unravelled from the fabric, and
A woven fabric is made up of two groups of orthogonal (mutu- their diameter was measured under the Projectina microscope
ally perpendicular) yarns. The longitudinal yarns are termed as (Projectina, Heerbrugg, Switzerland) with 100 ¥ magnification.
warp (singular: end) and transverse yarns are termed as weft Fabric cover % was calculated using the following expression
(singular: pick). In this study 100% cotton yarns were used in (33).
both directions for the sample preparation using a modern airjet
loom. Four different linear densities (count) of yarn were used in Fabric cover % = [ d1n1 + d2 n2 - d1d2 n1n2 ]100 (2)
the weft (20, 25, 30 and 40 Ne). Ne is the unit of yarn count,
which indicates the number of hanks (840 yd) that can be pro- where d1 and d2 are the warp and weft yarn diameter (cm),
duced from 1 lb of yarn. Higher Ne value indicates lower yarn respectively, and n1 and n2 are ends per centimetre and picks per
diameter and vice versa.The cotton yarn diameter and yarn count centimetre values, respectively.
(Ne) are approximately related by the following expression (33). The detailed results of calculated yarn diameter, flattened yarn
diameter, fabric cover % and areal density have been presented in
2.54 Table 2.The in vitro UPF of the fabrics was measured by American
Yarn diamater ( cm ) = (1)
28 Ne Association of Textile Chemist and Colorists (AATCC) 183–1998
method by SDL measurement system after conditioning the
The relative closeness of the yarns in the fabric is expressed in
samples in standard conditions.The test was performed by expos-
terms of ends per centimetre (for longitudinal yarns) and picks
ing the fabric to UV radiation (280 nm to 400 nm) and meas-
per centimetre (for transverse yarns). Woven fabric samples of
uring the transmission through the fabric. The instrument takes
different weaves, namely plain, 3 ¥ 1 twill, 2 ¥ 2 twill and 2 ¥ 2
three readings from a sample in three different directions. The
matt were prepared using four levels of picks per centimetre (15,
expression for the calculation of UPF is as follows (34).
19, 23 and 27) in the fabric. Warp yarn count (40 Ne) and ends
per centimetre (40) were the same for all the fabric samples. 400

Weave indicates the pattern of interlacement between warp and ∑ E S Δλ λ λ

weft yarns. The schematic representation of different weaves is UPF = λ =280


400
(3)
shown in Fig. 1.The ‘x’ indicates that the longitudinal yarn or end ∑ E S T Δλ
λ =280
λ λ λ

is passing over the transverse yarn or pick. The ‘O’ signifies that
the pick is passing over the end. The scheme of sample prepara- where El is solar spectral irradiance [W m-2 nm-1], Sl is relative
tion is shown in Table 1. The grey fabric samples were finally erythemal spectral effectiveness, Dl is measured wavelength inter-
scoured, bleached and calendered. To study the effect of UV val [nm] and Tl is average spectral transmittance of the specimen.

© 2012 John Wiley & Sons A/S 59


Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine 2012, 28, 58–67
Majumdar et al.

According to the AATCC standard, the rated UPF is the lowest the UPF of fabrics at different levels of picks per centimetre value
value of measured UPF rounded to the nearest multiple of 5. for 20, 25, 30 and 40 Ne weft yarns. In general, for a given value
However, the exact UPF values obtained from the equipment of picks per centimetre, the UPF does not vary much with the
have been used in this research so that the influence of various weave. This is due to the fact that UPF is primarily influenced by
parameters can be understood properly. the fabric cover which remains almost at the same level, for
different weave, as the fabric construction parameters are same.
The UPF values are very close for all the weaves for picks per
Results and discussion
centimetre values of 15, 19 and 23. Statistical analysis has been
done subsequently to verify the significance of weave on the UPF.
Effect of weave on UPF

The UPF values of fabrics for different weaves, peaks per centi-
Effect of picks per centimetre and weft yarn count on UPF
metre and weft count are shown in Table 3. The calculated UPF
values based on Equation 4 are also shown in Table 3 within Figure 6 depicts the influence of pick density and weft yarn
parenthesis. Figures 2–5 show the effect of different weaves on count on UPF of plain woven fabrics. It is observed that the UPF
increases as the picks per centimetre value increases, irrespective
of weft yarn count. A similar observation has been made from
Table 2. Detailed fabric parameters for plain woven fabrics Fig. 7 for 3/1 twill weave also. Figures 6 and 7 also show that for
a given level of picks per centimetre, UPF is maximum for 20 Ne
Weft Calculated Flattened Fabric Areal weft count followed by 25 Ne, 30 Ne and 40 Ne. This is quite
count pick diameter pick diameter Picks/ cover density
obvious because increase in picks per centimetre and weft yarn
(Ne) (cm) (cm) cm (%) (g/m2)
diameter (lower value of Ne) lead to higher fabric cover and areal
20 0.0203 0.0263 15 76.1 108.7 density resulting in higher UV radiation protection. It is also
19 81.7 124.0 observed that as the yarn count changes from 25 Ne to 20 Ne, the
23 86.1 139.5
27 89.9 153.9
corresponding change in UPF occurs very rapidly, and the effect
25 0.0181 0.0233 15 76.2 104.4 is very prominent when picks per centimetre value is 27. Similar
19 79.5 112.8 observations have also been made for 2 ¥ 2 twill and 2 ¥ 2 matt
23 84.2 123.4 weaves. This is due to the fact that the cover % of the fabric is
27 87.2 133.9 attaining the highest value when the yarn diameter is maximum
30 0.0166 0.0216 15 74.6 97.1
19 77.6 105.1
(20 Ne) and picks per centimetre value is also maximum (27).
23 81.5 114.1 The theoretical UPF value of fabrics made by complete opaque
27 84.6 123.6 yarns is expressed by the following equation (35).
40 0.0143 0.0191 15 72.9 89.0
19 75.8 95.2 100
23 79.5 102.1 UPF = (4)
100 − Fabric cover %
27 82.3 109.5

Table 3. UPF of cotton fabrics at different levels of weft count and picks per centimetre

Weft count

Weave Picks/cm 20 Ne 25 Ne 30 Ne 40 Ne

Plain 15 13.1 (3.9) 13.8 (4.0) 10.6 (3.7) 9.7 (3.4)


19 26.9 (4.8) 18.7 (4.5) 12.1 (4.0) 12.7 (3.6)
23 42.3 (5.9) 23.3 (5.6) 19.0 (4.7) 14.7 (4.1)
27 68.3 (7.4) 30.8 (6.6) 22.6 (5.4) 17.8 (4.5)
3 ¥ 1 Twill 15 17.8 (4.0) 15.5 (4.1) 11.4 (4.0) 10.8 (4.1)
19 26.1 (4.6) 22.9 (4.7) 17.4 (4.6) 12.3 (4.7)
23 45.2 (5.3) 32.6 (5.5) 24.0 (5.3) 16.5 (5.5)
27 79.2 (6.7) 54.6 (6.3) 29.0 (6.7) 19.6 (6.3)
2 ¥ 2 Twill 15 15.0 (4.1) 13.6 (3.8) 11.0 (3.5) 8.5 (3.1)
19 22.1 (4.8) 16.7 (4.4) 15.3 (4.0) 11.6 (3.5)
23 35.6 (5.7) 24.1 (5.1) 21.7 (4.4) 14.6 (3.9)
27 60.7 (7.2) 32.1 (6.1) 27.2 (5.2) 17.7 (4.4)
2 ¥ 2 Matt 15 16.0 (4.0) 15.7 (3.8) 11.5 (3.7) 10.0 (3.4)
19 19.8 (4.6) 16.7 (4.5) 15.6 (4.2) 10.2 (3.6)
23 33.5 (5.5) 21.4 (5.1) 16.8 (4.7) 13.7 (4.0)
27 40.0 (6.9) 26.0 (6.1) 21.3 (5.2) 14.8 (4.3)

Values in parentheses are calculated UPF based on Equation 4.

60 © 2012 John Wiley & Sons A/S


Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine 2012, 28, 58–67
Effect of weave and structural parameters on UPF

90

75

60
UPF

45

30

15

0
11 15 19 23 27
Picks/cm
Fig. 2. Effect of weave on ultraviolet
Plain 3×1 Twill 2×2 Twill 2×2 Matt
protection factor (UPF) for 20 Ne yarn.

70

60

50

40
UPF

30

20

10

0
11 15 19 23 27
Picks/cm
Fig. 3. Effect of weave on ultraviolet
Plain 3×1 Twill 2×2 Twill 2×2 Matt
protection factor (UPF) for 25 Ne yarn.

40

30
UPF

20

10

0
11 15 19 23 27
Picks/cm
Fig. 4. Effect of weave on ultraviolet
Plain 3×1 Twill 2×2 Twill 2×2 Matt
protection factor (UPF) for 30 Ne yarn.

© 2012 John Wiley & Sons A/S 61


Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine 2012, 28, 58–67
Majumdar et al.

30

25

20

UPF
15

10

0
11 15 19 23 27
Picks/cm
Fig. 5. Effect of weave on ultraviolet
Plain 3×1 Twill 2×2 Twill 2×2 Matt
protection factor (UPF) for 40 Ne yarn

90

75

60
UPF

45

30

15

0
11 15 19 23 27 31

Fig. 6. Effect of picks per centimetre and


Picks/ cm
weft count on ultraviolet protection factor
20 Ne 25 Ne 30 Ne 40 Ne
(UPF) of plain fabrics.

90

75

60
UPF

45

30

15

0
11 15 19 23 27 31

Fig. 7. Effect of picks per centimetre and


Picks/ cm
weft count on ultraviolet protection factor
20 Ne 25 Ne 30 Ne 40 Ne
(UPF) of 3 ¥ 1 twill fabrics.

62 © 2012 John Wiley & Sons A/S


Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine 2012, 28, 58–67
Effect of weave and structural parameters on UPF

Table 4. ANOVA for weave and yarn count (picks per cm = 27) Table 7. Tabulated F and calculated F at 0.01 significant level

Sum of Degrees Mean of Parameter Value of F from table F calculated


Sources of variation squares of freedom square F
Weave F3, 9, 0.01 =7 2.95
Between weaves 806.23 3 268.74 4.37 Picks per cm F3, 9, 0.01 =7 31.23
Between counts 4547.29 3 1515.76 24.63
Residual (error) 553.82 9 61.54
Total 5907.30 15
can be inferred that the effect of picks per centimetre on UPF is
statistically significant (P < 0.01). Similar observations were
Table 5. Tabulated and calculated F values at 0.01 significant level
made when the analysis was done for the weft counts of 25, 30
and 40 Ne also.
Tabulated Calculated
Parameter F values F values
Effect of fabric cover % on UPF
Weave F3, 9, 0.01 =7 4.37
Weft count F3, 9, 0.01 = 7 24.63 Figure 8 shows the effect of fabric cover % on measured UPF of
all the 64 fabrics. Exponential incriment of UPF has been
observed with the increase of fabric cover %. For plain, 3 ¥ 1
twill, 2 ¥ 2 twill and 2 ¥ 2 matt weaves, the following relation-
Table 6. ANOVA table for weave and picks per centimetre (weft
ships were obtained between fabric cover % and UPF:
count = 20 Ne)

Sum of Degree of Mean of Plain UPF = 0.0054e0.1048x [ R 2 = 0.875]


Sources of variation squares freedom square F

Between weaves 475.37 3 158.46 2.95


Between picks per cm 5025.83 3 1675.28 31.23 3 ×1 Twill UPF = 0.0009e0.13x [ R 2 = 0.913]
Residual (error) 482.81 9 53.65
Total 5984.0 15

2 × 2 Twill UPF = 0.0087e0.0998x [R 2 = 0.952]

From the Equation 4, it is understandable that UPF changes very


rapidly when the fabric cover reaches near 100. The change in
fabric cover % from 70 to 75 will change the UPF from 3.3 to 4. 2 × 2 matt UPF = 0.0174e0.0892x [ R 2 = 0.899]
However, the change in fabric cover from 90 to 95 will change
the UPF from 10 to 20.
The overall relationship between fabric cover and UPF was deter-
mined using the results of 64 fabrics as given below.
Statistical analysis with ANOVA
UPF = 0.0054e0.1056 x [ R 2 = 0.865]
To analyse the effect of weave, picks per centimetre and weft
count on UPF, two-way ANOVA tests were conducted. The first
ANOVA was formulated to analyse the statistical significance of The above relationship holds quiet good up to fabric cover of
weave and weft count on UPF for a constant picks per centi- 80%. However, beyond that value of fabric cover, the UPF seems
metre value of 27. The results are shown in Table 4 and Table 5. to be rather unpredictable from the best fit equation. This can be
For the weave, the tabulated F value is much higher than cal- attributed to the fact that when fabric cover becomes very high,
culated F value. Therefore, it can be inferred that the effect of the UV transmittance becomes very low as the macropores are
weave on UPF is insignificant for picks per centimetre value of reduced. This low level of transmittance may lead to higher level
27. However, for weft yarn count, tabulated F value is less than of measurement error. Even little variation in the test sample may
the calculated F value, implying that weft yarn count has a lead to very high deviation of UPF. Figure 8 also shows the effect
significant influence on UPF (P < 0.01). Similar results were of fabric cover % on the calculated UPF of fabrics. It is observed
obtained for the picks per centimetre values of 15, 19 and 23 that calculated values are far apart from the measured values
also. which implies that Equation 4 does not hold well in practice for
The second ANOVA was formulated to analyse the statistical predicting UPF of fabrics.
significance of picks per centimetre value on UPF for a constant
weft yarn count of 20 Ne. The results are shown in Table 6 and
Effect of fabric areal density on UPF
Table 7. It is observed, again, that the effect of weave on UPF is
statistically insignificant. However, for picks per centimetre, the Figure 9 depicts the effect of fabric areal density or weight
tabulated F value is less than the calculated F value. Therefore, it (g/m2) on UPF of all the 64 fabrics. As the areal density of fabric

© 2012 John Wiley & Sons A/S 63


Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine 2012, 28, 58–67
Majumdar et al.

90
y = 0.0054e
0.1056x Measured Calculated
80
2
R = 0.865
70
60
50

UPF
40
30
20
10
0
Fig. 8. Effect of fabric cover % on measured 65 70 75 80 85 90
and calculated ultraviolet protection factor
(UPF) of fabrics. Fabric cover (%)

90
80 y = e0.0258x
2
70 R = 0.891
60
50
UPF

40
30
20
10
0
80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160
Fig. 9. Effect of areal density on ultraviolet
protection factor (UPF) of fabrics. Area density (g/sq. m)

increases, the UPF also increases exponentially due to higher UV signifies that the relationship between the UPF and fabric areal
blockage and absorption. The equations relating the fabric areal density is independent of the weave. The overall relationship
density (x) and UPF are given below. between fabric areal density and UPF is found to be as follows.

Plain UPF = e0.0258x [ R 2 = 0.942]


UPF = e0.0258x [ R 2 = 0.891]

From Fig. 9, it can be seen that the best fit equation is able to
3 ×1 Twill UPF = e0.0273x [ R 2 = 0.936]
predict the UPF value of the fabrics quite efficiently up to fabric
areal density of 135 g/m2. However, beyond the fabric areal
density of 135 g/m2, the UPF shows high variability. From the
2 × 2 Twill UPF = e0.0257x [ R 2 = 0.948] values of coefficient of regression (R2), it can be inferred that, in
general, fabric areal density is a better predictor of UPF than
fabric cover % as the former yields better values than the latter.
2 × 2 Matt UPF = e0.0246 x [ R 2 = 0.954] This is probably due to the fact that fabric cover, which indicates
the % of fabric area covered by the yarns, refers to a woven fabric
in two-dimensional formations. However, areal density considers
It is interesting to note that the coefficients of all four the fabric in three-dimensional formations by incorporating the
equations lie within a very small range (0.0246–0.0273). This thickness. For a given level of cover %, the ratio of yarn diameter

64 © 2012 John Wiley & Sons A/S


Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine 2012, 28, 58–67
Effect of weave and structural parameters on UPF

140
0.1141x
y = 0.0069e
120 2
R = 0.935
100

80
UPF

60

40
0.1048x
20 y = 0.0054e
2
R = 0.875
0
65 70 75 80 85 90

Fabric cover (%) Fig. 10. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF)


and fabric cover for UV absorber-treated and
UV absorber treated Untreated
-untreated plain fabrics.

12

10
UVA transmission %

0
65 70 75 80 85 90
Fabric cover (%)
Fig. 11. Ultraviolet A (UVA) transmission
through ultraviolet (UV) absorber-treated
UV absorber treated Untreated and -untreated plain fabrics.

to yarn spacing is same. However, the UPF will definitely be (macro) pores. Therefore, the effect of the UV absorber is less
higher for the fabric having higher areal density i.e. the fabric pronounced as inter-yarn fabric pores still exist even after UV
made from coarser yarn, as the UV rays will have to pass through absorber treatment. However, when fabric cover is very high, the
greater fabric thickness and therefore they may be absorbed. inter-yarn fabric pores are almost absent and, therefore, the direct
transmission of UV through fabric pores is not possible. Besides,
the yarns have also become almost opaque due to the treatment
Effect of UV absorbers
with UV absorber.Therefore, the UPF increases drastically at high
Figure 10 depicts the effect of UV absorber on the UPF of plain- cover after UV absorber treatment. Similar observations have also
woven fabrics. The UV absorber (Thiotan R)-treated fabrics also been made for other weaves. Figures 11 and 12 depict that the
show nonlinear increment of UPF with the increase of fabric linear relationship fits well between the transmission of UVA and
cover %.The difference of UPF between the UV absorber- treated UVB rays and fabric cover % for both UV absorber-treated and
and -untreated fabrics is lower when the fabric cover % is low. -untreated plain-woven fabrics. The transmission of UVA and
However, this difference shows concomitant increase with the UVB is reduced almost equally after the treatment with UV
increase in fabric cover %. When fabric cover is low, the domi- absorber.Therefore, it can be said that the applied UV absorber is
nant mode of UV transmission is through the inter yarn fabric equally effective for both the UV rays.

© 2012 John Wiley & Sons A/S 65


Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine 2012, 28, 58–67
Majumdar et al.

12

10

UVB transmission %
8

0
65 70 75 80 85 90

Fig. 12. Ultraviolet B (UVB) transmission Fabric cover (%)


through ultraviolet (UV) absorber-treated
UV absorber treated Untreated
and -untreated plain fabrics.

Conclusions 6. Gies PH, Roy CR, Holmes G. Ultraviolet radiation protection by


clothing: comparison of in vivo and in vitro measurements. Radiat
The effect of weave, weft count, picks per centimetre, fabric cover Prot Dosimetry 2000; 91: 247–250.
% and fabrics areal density on the UPF of 100% cotton woven 7. Menzies SW, Lukins PB, Greenoak GE, Walter PJ, Philthorpe MT,
fabrics has been investigated.The influence of weave on the UPF of Martin JM. A comparative study of fabric protection against
woven fabrics is found to be statistically insignificant for bleached ultraviolet induced erythema determined by spectrophotometric
cotton fabrics woven with 40 Ne warp yarn count, 40 ends and human skin measurements. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed
per centimetre, different weft yarn count (20–40 Ne) and picks 1991; 8: 157–163.
per centimetre (15–27). The UPF of fabrics increases as the 8. Ravishankar J, Diffey B. Laboratory testing of UV transmission
through fabrics may underestimate protection. Photodermatol
picks per centimetre value increases and weft count (Ne) reduces.
Photoimmunol Photomed 1997; 13: 202–203.
The rate of increase in UPF is higher when fabric is woven with
9. Hoffmann K, Kasper K, Gambichler T, Almeyer P. In vitro and in
higher picks per centimetre value using coarser yarns.The UPF of vivo determination of the UV protection factor for lightweight
fabric is exponentially related with the fabric cover % and fabric cotton and viscose summer fabrics: a preliminary study. J Am Acad
areal density.The fabric areal density seems to be a better predictor Dermatol 2000; 43: 1009–1016.
of UPF as compared to fabric cover % for the same set of fabrics. 10. Gambichler T, Hatch KL, Avermaete A, Altmeyer P, Hoffmann K.
The simple equations have been derived for predicting the UPF of Influence of wetness on the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF)
bleached cotton fabrics from the areal density values.These expres- of textiles: in vitro and in vivo measurements. Photodermatol Photoim-
sions are found to be almost independent of the weave and, munol Photomed 2002; 18: 29–35.
therefore, can be used as a primary guideline for the fabric 11. Gambichler T, Hatch KL, Avermaete A et al. Ultraviolet protection
selection to attain a specified level of UPF. The application UV factors of fabrics: comparison of laboratory and field based
measurements. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 2002; 18: 135–
absorber increases the UPF value, and the enhancement is more
140.
prominent at high fabric cover %.The UV absorber can reduce the
12. Gambichler T, Rotterdam S, Altmeyer P, Hoffman K. Protection
UVA and UVB transmission almost equally. against ultraviolet radiation by commercial summer clothing:
need for standardized testing and labeling. BMC Dermatol 2001; 1:
6.
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