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Effect of Weave, Structural Parameters and Ultraviolet Absorbers On in Vitro Protection Factor of Bleached Cotton Woven Fabrics
Effect of Weave, Structural Parameters and Ultraviolet Absorbers On in Vitro Protection Factor of Bleached Cotton Woven Fabrics
Summary
Key words: Introduction: The weave, fabric cover, areal density and ultraviolet (UV) absorbers are some of
cotton fabrics; fabric cover; ultraviolet the factors which influence the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of cotton fabrics. It will be
protection; UV absorbers; weave of interest to know whether fabric cover or fabric areal density is a better predictor of cotton
fabric UPF. It will also be of interest to know whether the UV absorbers are equally effective
Correspondence: for all kinds of cotton fabric.
Dr Abhijit Majumdar, Indian Institute of Objectives: To understand the role of weave, fabric cover, areal density and UV absorbers on
Technology Delhi, Hauz Khas, New Delhi, 110016 the UPF of cotton fabrics. To establish quantitative relationships between the fabric cover,
Delhi, India. areal density and UPF for cotton fabrics.
Tel: +91 11 26591405 Methods: Sixty-four woven fabrics were manufactured using different weaves, cotton yarn
Fax: +91 11 26581103 count and picks per centimetre values. Nonlinear regression models were developed to relate
e-mail: abhitextile@rediffmail.com the fabric cover and areal density with the UPF. The role of UV absorbers at different levels
of cover has been analysed.
Accepted for publication: Results: In case of bleached cotton fabrics woven with 40 Ne warp yarn count, 40 ends per
21 September 2011 cm, different weft yarn count (20–40 Ne) and picks per centimetre (15–27), weave does not
have a statistically significant effect on the UPF. Fabric areal density is a better predictor of
Conflicts of interest: UPF than the fabric cover.The UV absorbers are more effective when the fabric cover is high.
None declared. Conclusions: The developed equations relating fabric cover and UPF can be used as a primary
guideline while selecting fabrics for UV protection.
x x O x x O O x O O x x
O x x O x x O O x x O O x x
x O O x x x O x x O x x O O
x x x O x x O O x x O O
Plain weave 3×1 twill weave 2×2 twill weave 2×2 matt weave Fig. 1. Different weaves for cotton fabrics.
fabrics significantly (27–29). Stretching reduces the UPF of the Table 1. Sample preparation details
fabric during wear, as the effective fabric cover % is reduced (30).
Level of
Wetting, washing and laundering of fabrics also influence the UPF
Parameter parameter Details
of fabrics (31, 32). Most of the reported literature deal with fabrics
taken from the market and, therefore, the difference in manufac- Weave 4 Plain, 3 ¥ 1 Twill, 2 ¥ 2 Twill
turing process can not be ruled out. The quantitative analysis on and 2 ¥ 2 matt
Weft count (Ne) 4 20, 25, 30 and 40
the role of various structural parameters of fabrics is also lacking. Picks per cm 4 15, 19, 23 and 27
In this work, an attempt has been made to systematically
investigate the influence of weave, weft yarn linear density or
count, number of weft yarns per centimetre, fabric cover %, areal
density (g/m2) and UV protective finish on the UPF of woven absorbers, the fabric samples were treated with 4% Thiotan R
paste (Clariant Chemicals Ltd, Thane, India) following the pro-
fabrics. Predictive equations have been developed to predict the
cedure stated by the manufacturer.
UPF of bleached cotton fabrics from cover % and areal density.
Testing of samples
Materials and methods
All the fabric samples were tested for their ends and picks per
Fabric sample preparation centimetre value using pick counting glass. For measuring the
flattened diameter, yarns were unravelled from the fabric, and
A woven fabric is made up of two groups of orthogonal (mutu- their diameter was measured under the Projectina microscope
ally perpendicular) yarns. The longitudinal yarns are termed as (Projectina, Heerbrugg, Switzerland) with 100 ¥ magnification.
warp (singular: end) and transverse yarns are termed as weft Fabric cover % was calculated using the following expression
(singular: pick). In this study 100% cotton yarns were used in (33).
both directions for the sample preparation using a modern airjet
loom. Four different linear densities (count) of yarn were used in Fabric cover % = [ d1n1 + d2 n2 - d1d2 n1n2 ]100 (2)
the weft (20, 25, 30 and 40 Ne). Ne is the unit of yarn count,
which indicates the number of hanks (840 yd) that can be pro- where d1 and d2 are the warp and weft yarn diameter (cm),
duced from 1 lb of yarn. Higher Ne value indicates lower yarn respectively, and n1 and n2 are ends per centimetre and picks per
diameter and vice versa.The cotton yarn diameter and yarn count centimetre values, respectively.
(Ne) are approximately related by the following expression (33). The detailed results of calculated yarn diameter, flattened yarn
diameter, fabric cover % and areal density have been presented in
2.54 Table 2.The in vitro UPF of the fabrics was measured by American
Yarn diamater ( cm ) = (1)
28 Ne Association of Textile Chemist and Colorists (AATCC) 183–1998
method by SDL measurement system after conditioning the
The relative closeness of the yarns in the fabric is expressed in
samples in standard conditions.The test was performed by expos-
terms of ends per centimetre (for longitudinal yarns) and picks
ing the fabric to UV radiation (280 nm to 400 nm) and meas-
per centimetre (for transverse yarns). Woven fabric samples of
uring the transmission through the fabric. The instrument takes
different weaves, namely plain, 3 ¥ 1 twill, 2 ¥ 2 twill and 2 ¥ 2
three readings from a sample in three different directions. The
matt were prepared using four levels of picks per centimetre (15,
expression for the calculation of UPF is as follows (34).
19, 23 and 27) in the fabric. Warp yarn count (40 Ne) and ends
per centimetre (40) were the same for all the fabric samples. 400
is passing over the transverse yarn or pick. The ‘O’ signifies that
the pick is passing over the end. The scheme of sample prepara- where El is solar spectral irradiance [W m-2 nm-1], Sl is relative
tion is shown in Table 1. The grey fabric samples were finally erythemal spectral effectiveness, Dl is measured wavelength inter-
scoured, bleached and calendered. To study the effect of UV val [nm] and Tl is average spectral transmittance of the specimen.
According to the AATCC standard, the rated UPF is the lowest the UPF of fabrics at different levels of picks per centimetre value
value of measured UPF rounded to the nearest multiple of 5. for 20, 25, 30 and 40 Ne weft yarns. In general, for a given value
However, the exact UPF values obtained from the equipment of picks per centimetre, the UPF does not vary much with the
have been used in this research so that the influence of various weave. This is due to the fact that UPF is primarily influenced by
parameters can be understood properly. the fabric cover which remains almost at the same level, for
different weave, as the fabric construction parameters are same.
The UPF values are very close for all the weaves for picks per
Results and discussion
centimetre values of 15, 19 and 23. Statistical analysis has been
done subsequently to verify the significance of weave on the UPF.
Effect of weave on UPF
The UPF values of fabrics for different weaves, peaks per centi-
Effect of picks per centimetre and weft yarn count on UPF
metre and weft count are shown in Table 3. The calculated UPF
values based on Equation 4 are also shown in Table 3 within Figure 6 depicts the influence of pick density and weft yarn
parenthesis. Figures 2–5 show the effect of different weaves on count on UPF of plain woven fabrics. It is observed that the UPF
increases as the picks per centimetre value increases, irrespective
of weft yarn count. A similar observation has been made from
Table 2. Detailed fabric parameters for plain woven fabrics Fig. 7 for 3/1 twill weave also. Figures 6 and 7 also show that for
a given level of picks per centimetre, UPF is maximum for 20 Ne
Weft Calculated Flattened Fabric Areal weft count followed by 25 Ne, 30 Ne and 40 Ne. This is quite
count pick diameter pick diameter Picks/ cover density
obvious because increase in picks per centimetre and weft yarn
(Ne) (cm) (cm) cm (%) (g/m2)
diameter (lower value of Ne) lead to higher fabric cover and areal
20 0.0203 0.0263 15 76.1 108.7 density resulting in higher UV radiation protection. It is also
19 81.7 124.0 observed that as the yarn count changes from 25 Ne to 20 Ne, the
23 86.1 139.5
27 89.9 153.9
corresponding change in UPF occurs very rapidly, and the effect
25 0.0181 0.0233 15 76.2 104.4 is very prominent when picks per centimetre value is 27. Similar
19 79.5 112.8 observations have also been made for 2 ¥ 2 twill and 2 ¥ 2 matt
23 84.2 123.4 weaves. This is due to the fact that the cover % of the fabric is
27 87.2 133.9 attaining the highest value when the yarn diameter is maximum
30 0.0166 0.0216 15 74.6 97.1
19 77.6 105.1
(20 Ne) and picks per centimetre value is also maximum (27).
23 81.5 114.1 The theoretical UPF value of fabrics made by complete opaque
27 84.6 123.6 yarns is expressed by the following equation (35).
40 0.0143 0.0191 15 72.9 89.0
19 75.8 95.2 100
23 79.5 102.1 UPF = (4)
100 − Fabric cover %
27 82.3 109.5
Table 3. UPF of cotton fabrics at different levels of weft count and picks per centimetre
Weft count
Weave Picks/cm 20 Ne 25 Ne 30 Ne 40 Ne
90
75
60
UPF
45
30
15
0
11 15 19 23 27
Picks/cm
Fig. 2. Effect of weave on ultraviolet
Plain 3×1 Twill 2×2 Twill 2×2 Matt
protection factor (UPF) for 20 Ne yarn.
70
60
50
40
UPF
30
20
10
0
11 15 19 23 27
Picks/cm
Fig. 3. Effect of weave on ultraviolet
Plain 3×1 Twill 2×2 Twill 2×2 Matt
protection factor (UPF) for 25 Ne yarn.
40
30
UPF
20
10
0
11 15 19 23 27
Picks/cm
Fig. 4. Effect of weave on ultraviolet
Plain 3×1 Twill 2×2 Twill 2×2 Matt
protection factor (UPF) for 30 Ne yarn.
30
25
20
UPF
15
10
0
11 15 19 23 27
Picks/cm
Fig. 5. Effect of weave on ultraviolet
Plain 3×1 Twill 2×2 Twill 2×2 Matt
protection factor (UPF) for 40 Ne yarn
90
75
60
UPF
45
30
15
0
11 15 19 23 27 31
90
75
60
UPF
45
30
15
0
11 15 19 23 27 31
Table 4. ANOVA for weave and yarn count (picks per cm = 27) Table 7. Tabulated F and calculated F at 0.01 significant level
90
y = 0.0054e
0.1056x Measured Calculated
80
2
R = 0.865
70
60
50
UPF
40
30
20
10
0
Fig. 8. Effect of fabric cover % on measured 65 70 75 80 85 90
and calculated ultraviolet protection factor
(UPF) of fabrics. Fabric cover (%)
90
80 y = e0.0258x
2
70 R = 0.891
60
50
UPF
40
30
20
10
0
80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160
Fig. 9. Effect of areal density on ultraviolet
protection factor (UPF) of fabrics. Area density (g/sq. m)
increases, the UPF also increases exponentially due to higher UV signifies that the relationship between the UPF and fabric areal
blockage and absorption. The equations relating the fabric areal density is independent of the weave. The overall relationship
density (x) and UPF are given below. between fabric areal density and UPF is found to be as follows.
From Fig. 9, it can be seen that the best fit equation is able to
3 ×1 Twill UPF = e0.0273x [ R 2 = 0.936]
predict the UPF value of the fabrics quite efficiently up to fabric
areal density of 135 g/m2. However, beyond the fabric areal
density of 135 g/m2, the UPF shows high variability. From the
2 × 2 Twill UPF = e0.0257x [ R 2 = 0.948] values of coefficient of regression (R2), it can be inferred that, in
general, fabric areal density is a better predictor of UPF than
fabric cover % as the former yields better values than the latter.
2 × 2 Matt UPF = e0.0246 x [ R 2 = 0.954] This is probably due to the fact that fabric cover, which indicates
the % of fabric area covered by the yarns, refers to a woven fabric
in two-dimensional formations. However, areal density considers
It is interesting to note that the coefficients of all four the fabric in three-dimensional formations by incorporating the
equations lie within a very small range (0.0246–0.0273). This thickness. For a given level of cover %, the ratio of yarn diameter
140
0.1141x
y = 0.0069e
120 2
R = 0.935
100
80
UPF
60
40
0.1048x
20 y = 0.0054e
2
R = 0.875
0
65 70 75 80 85 90
12
10
UVA transmission %
0
65 70 75 80 85 90
Fabric cover (%)
Fig. 11. Ultraviolet A (UVA) transmission
through ultraviolet (UV) absorber-treated
UV absorber treated Untreated and -untreated plain fabrics.
to yarn spacing is same. However, the UPF will definitely be (macro) pores. Therefore, the effect of the UV absorber is less
higher for the fabric having higher areal density i.e. the fabric pronounced as inter-yarn fabric pores still exist even after UV
made from coarser yarn, as the UV rays will have to pass through absorber treatment. However, when fabric cover is very high, the
greater fabric thickness and therefore they may be absorbed. inter-yarn fabric pores are almost absent and, therefore, the direct
transmission of UV through fabric pores is not possible. Besides,
the yarns have also become almost opaque due to the treatment
Effect of UV absorbers
with UV absorber.Therefore, the UPF increases drastically at high
Figure 10 depicts the effect of UV absorber on the UPF of plain- cover after UV absorber treatment. Similar observations have also
woven fabrics. The UV absorber (Thiotan R)-treated fabrics also been made for other weaves. Figures 11 and 12 depict that the
show nonlinear increment of UPF with the increase of fabric linear relationship fits well between the transmission of UVA and
cover %.The difference of UPF between the UV absorber- treated UVB rays and fabric cover % for both UV absorber-treated and
and -untreated fabrics is lower when the fabric cover % is low. -untreated plain-woven fabrics. The transmission of UVA and
However, this difference shows concomitant increase with the UVB is reduced almost equally after the treatment with UV
increase in fabric cover %. When fabric cover is low, the domi- absorber.Therefore, it can be said that the applied UV absorber is
nant mode of UV transmission is through the inter yarn fabric equally effective for both the UV rays.
12
10
UVB transmission %
8
0
65 70 75 80 85 90
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