WAVES AND

COASTAL
PROCESSES
Monica M. Padilla
Pre- Service Teacher
At the end of the lesson, the student should be able
to:
• identify the different parts of the waves;
• explain how waves are being formed;
• illustrate geological features that are formed by
waves and coastal processes; and
• appreciate waves and coastal processes by
identifying the importance of the formation of the
different geological features.
Three factors of Wave Height
01 Wind Speed

02 Duration

03 Fetch
Oscillatory Forward
motion motion
 TIDES

Rise and fall of sea level.

- Flow tide/ flow current

- Ebb tide/ ebb current
 DIFFERENT
TYPE OF TIDES
 1. Diurnal tides

one high and low

tide every lunar day
 2. Semi- diurnal tides

Two high and two

low tides of
approximately equal
size every lunar day
 3. Spring tides

- Higher high tides

- Lower low tides
- Occur twice each
lunar month.
 4. Neap tides

high tides are a little

lower and low tides
are a little higher
than average.
 5. Perigean tides
● Perigee- the gravitational
pull of the moon is
strongest.
● Apogee- the gravitational
pull of the moon is
strongest.
Longshore current Longshore drift
When a wave reaches Is the movement of
a beach or coastline, material along the
it releases a burst of shore by wave action.
energy that generates It happens when
a current, which runs waves approach the
parallel to the beach at an angle.
shoreline.
 LANDFORMS
CREATED BY
LONGSHORE DRIFT
 1. Beaches
A beach is a narrow strip of land that is located
along a body of water.
San Juan, La Union Luna, La Union
Beach Beach
 2. Barrier spit
long narrow strips of depositional bodies
emerging from water, with one end attached to
a coast that serves as the source of sediment
supply and the other end jutting into open
water, forming a shelter for its inner water
 3. Sea cliffs
A cliff is a mass of rock that rises very high and is
almost vertical, or straight up-and-down.
Poro Point Lighthouse Hidden
Paradise
 4. Lagoon
a shallow body of water protected from a larger
body of water (usually the ocean) by sandbars,
barrier islands, or coral reefs.
Immuki Island in Balaoan, La Union
Twin Lagoon in Coron Palawan
 5. Tombolo
One or more sandbars or spits that connect an
island to the mainland.
Paniquian Island in Puerto Galera
Namalpalan, Magsingal, Ilocos sur
 6. River delta
An area of land which forms where a river meets
the sea and deposits its load.
 7. Baymouth bar
It is a sandbar that stretches across a bay,
separating it from the ocean
 DIFFERENT
EROSIONAL
LANDFORMS
 1. Headlands

Headlands are
characterized by
high, breaking waves,
rocky shores, intense
erosion, and steep
sea cliff.
 2. Bays

a body of water
partially surrounded by
land.
 3. Sea Caves

are formed primarily

from erosion caused by
waves
 Example of Sea Caves
Hinagdanan cave in Bohol Island
CAVES IN HUNDRED ISLANDS-
Alaminos, Pangasinan
Dugong’s Cave
CAVES IN HUNDRED ISLANDS-
Alaminos, Pangasinan
Governor’s Cave
 4. Sea Arches

develops when a
headland protruding
into the ocean causes
waves to refract
around it.
 Example of Sea Arches
Nakabuang arch in Sabtang Island, Batanes,
Philippines.
 Example of Sea Arches
Key Hole Arch, Boracay, Malay, Aklan
 5. Sea stumps

the eroded remains of

a sea stack, often
looking like a lump of
rock sticking up from
its surroundings.
Example of Sea Stumps
Caramoan Island, Camarines Sur
 6. Wave-cut platforms

is an area of hard, flat

rock located in front
of a cliff.
Example of Wave- cut platforms
Caramoan Island, Camarines Sur
 COASTAL
MANAGEMENT
Hard engineering approach

Soft engineering approach

Hard engineering approach

the construction of physical structures

1. Seawalls
2. Breakwaters
3. Groyne
4. Gabions
Soft engineering approach

Focuses on planning and management

1. Beach Nourishment
2. Planting of mangroves
3. Stabilizing Dunes
4. Growth of Coral Reefs
For your Performance task, you are going to
draw 1 geological feature that are formed by
waves and coastal processes.
RUBRIC:
- Representation of coastal landscape and
geological features: 15 pts
- Creativity and artistic expression: 10 pts
 Assessment Questions:

1) Describe the geological features depicted in

your artwork and explain how they are formed
by waves and coastal processes.
2) How does your artwork reflect your
understanding and appreciation of waves and
coastal processes?
MULTIPLE CHOICE
TEST
 1. The height of an ocean wave
increases as ___________.
a. the wind speed increases
b. the wind blows for longer times
c. the distance over which the wind flows over
the water increases
d. all of these
2. What is the distance between two
wave crest?
a. wavelength
b. wave height
c. throw
d. period
2. What is the distance between two
wave crest?
a. wavelength
b. wave height
c. throw
d. period
 3. What do you call the engineering
approach that focuses on planning and
management?
a. planning approach
b. hard engineering approach
c. soft engineering approach
d. engineering management approach
 4. Waves run up onto the beach
forming a _________, and run back down
as ________.
a. swash ... backwash
b. wave ... swash
c. front swash ... retroswash
d. wave ... backwash
 5. What are the three factors that
causes wave heights?

a. wind speed, duration, fetch

b. wind speed, circulation, fetch
c. wind speed, conjucation, fetch
d. win speed, duration, circulation
6-10.
THANK YOU FOR
LISTENING!