National Geographic Society: ONE Volum

VOLUM E I UMBER ONE
1 y Life in Forbidden Lhasa

_ HEINRICH HASHER
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/ With. BTid *3 Illustrations, ISJ ift N literal Colors
Under Canvas in the Atomic Age

WLth Map and 37 IShJvU hiidue:
3.2 In Natural Celtic ALAN VILLIEfiS
In the Gardens of Olympus

With Map Atari 50 Illustrations
45 in Hftturqi Colon PAUL A. j'AHL
Europe Via the Hostel Route

With Map slid 27 IShiBlration* NETTIS
Seventy two
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PUBLISHED BY THE
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
WASHINGTON, D. C.
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NATIONAL MGEOGRAPHIC
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SOCIETY
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Sinclair Salutes the Boy Scouts of America TO US INFORMATION -

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SINCLAIR
live op hi their Outdoor Cfude iincl Ei< ptmdte its (MCWpEntatu
by oil Ameriran^ / ftnrfti Yamr itt Oil
reasons why Dictaphone's Dicta belt record
makes your job easier!
Cl-pai* p&l rjicinrcliny iiivtt 1 r“V- In
Inn script on i cc-ciujtt your fiecr^-Eary

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yOM 30 1h* rtCflrd at a
£mbv tb find joyr *l*ew fur ulsyOP-ckr
U nh riNik .1 b 1 1« ptaStJ c record Pr

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m .in" n E ,
nn*-i-r:-rn=:.iLji1a,
Ma.it DiCfpbatt ris£ 41 ^d» li -®

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dinary htttr, tn*y‘rfl fflatPir~l-qht|

flexible. pu^t-curd eu-2 -i
The Dfct&bett record B „ . @xcHj&ive advan-

tage of * n& Dict-aphpTie Time -Master d(C-«ting;
pji w dJcCb^Mi ncrmp. merit voice-
Far
rftcfird, or for FULtsfe tranati "ifltiom mspHi ne.
When ypu Eire considering a dictating m^chr>o
id saye you time, money and work, remember
the Qfct&b&ft record- St 9 a convenience aiid an
J
economy y l lt- get only with the -Dictaphone
Junl ^ Time- M-.ister . . leading dictating maenme

Sava m&nvf dicJaln^f 5 ,
d-n -
fbr AvorngF dttv *i pie tali on, v uu around the world.

nlwayE racerti OB Si n-eW sur+nco. T 4 Cf and a free Dtcfeboft
“rrililUpla handing" of ricoran.
For mere in formation
record, write Dtctephon* Corporation, 420 Le*>
ington Avenue, New York IT, N, Y, In, Canada,
PLctaphpne Corp-p ration Ltd. Toronto. OniaHo* „ p
CORPORATION
i M rJflM a . mi7T BUftrL-T A H L fttJI t PC II STB THJ W W * HIK C,

1
EPl' tlitl ”C(H F " i II BLl l*N
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solution lo many nl your r-hih nnJ rhurdt Hu-
PERFECT FOR tiiMh'rv
IT* SU
pmU^nnn
Ml_-V' In |.« IfiCe-S
1
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CLUB AND CHURCH tm-iL ,\n

change.. Aim ilir.- ftfim is
over wiien offii'i'r?
targti ijuiDtclle* Jr Cl
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mijjtH'% vi-ri if you ri’L|L [n hi uny 200 8
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COR R ESFONDENCE
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fur ii'ajj- JL.F.HJ!
I'lipir r i? mujh vs hi It (HrnJ

Vnki i-ijl I Unit it f^r tnaiN ng ni rcsing mi in wn*
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Canadian Pacific presents the newest

way to Banff and Lake Louise-
Canada'* f i
r s,f pad anly Sc-prsc
Dditi& ftr^PFrt liner naW n. fq'.l i
daily liC-r^K v be! we Lin MonEiEiaJ

and Van causer, and T&rqnEa and
Van tdu M'u r--*u e& yfu r^r&ugli the Ip;
CaaadEati Ikiet iii daylight.
Nowreni-fi Banff and Lmdse

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Win nyuu Thr Cmttithtih

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you £ujm u usniplrL^v nH uml
r lafEi“Ti -r it klurl nl traml fnzmry.
You'll m «> mJtJtTitk! Canada iicrm
li- ;l i is- Set ii - Qomes, Yemi tun
EM JOY THE WW.fi 5 ICMGE5T See me Dair- t rj e i
Qt rrliL's i r i Tfitmiy Is1UIM£e& and ptiIit
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p<ys mtzMi'.fiun i perl i !'^ Mkihfl, ?liTi!h^^, fJil.ng ) i iii 1 DlniiiE Hrinrin 1 :ir nr a Sky-
litif ( VHr-w SIlUp
Cn ifafl Studio DnitW U'JIV— .if
SWI M AHQ :PI,ftY a' ClmlHil
lit) tr\[tbl l.in-f \i pa 3 i±-£t ^’Suiilii I •
l,aic I -! W| rundirf pJT.uql Vl r-

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Trii]i]n 1 îEi«i
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Like ido-ELg, 2 W ollLDfittk zrnnc- ii irt escape. A Rapuir 1 cluptniw
Lxcdkcii f r h.[iminj4< ci will gppc * ,/!nVjiidji t'.i v’s-'mir
scud y, tfA^clini;, nm-vir*.

wrupes art priL-. J. trom OJ FHiud Frwn >
see ik ffimpiL-Ej % Litw ,u Jia l^z-ut-r phoinjG-iTijdih «
• - i is. i
tipricil dÛ-^. x--ml fn new Literature utdh l
OPTICAL COMPANY
t*"‘J HUDSON AV N : : I r * ROCHESTER. H. Y,
You Haven *t Seen America Until You
ee VIRGINIA
"Birthplace Of The Nation "
S m 1 1 I i r -e. in \ mî mi! J - r . nv r i
,
Hi, mr
pr r rii j nrli I *eE Lenten L
I: Y cirktu^ n B
Gorti vi u Jlis iitrrclictercdf tVi])iiLEiL*bmr|t. cmIhcilllI crtpitdJ.

1 lie cnlrmia! Oiansium of Washington. Jtiflrrmui.
Monroe, Muson. Steint? sunders such fs
r
N u£tlr.il Bridge, Skylim Urivc,. BJuc Pirkwrty

J
2 nd ci^nu, Miti! | lnt wolfed erfu) reercutinn un *ynn^
Reaches a i
< d in the eotd moLiittiiEii*. Finn Eu come now!
Tfui 50 Pay* Pietdr* Book on Virginia Ji Youn FREEl

VI lifiiiikmuli InFurnuihiHi \'i nlnN.U Wrilw OmeiI Xip.EIU,
,
Gove/peî Palate, YYrffiomibura V>r*h>-« EJ-sririTu iH hi (.kitnii u-an mil tin t bjnnvai,
Vd H 1 .a |-i=i il Si... ILi i Ilii ii. ii 2 Vd.
PltflllQl nil Hetluhail Clraer^jilik — -I l iilBtitlfiEA JhMI

Dream with ihe dream-blue your dn-k- in
dmU l fwt vifiur rifea-appeihe %viih thr world-

;
filmed fiTncIi rubjiic. Enjoy the crowded

ui gjv cttU'rtfliniiJi^jit lor vuUL pleasure.
I []dtiit!tJ t before ihi

j
lir^t day Li d*FWtt dir Hori-
+
zen, yuy vii rough t tbc ci iru .M-i. si 1-. -| itrai 4 if u
sp.ifkliiM* l i e rich hi'diri.iv,
Ann you icody kqh:- hi give yutirtcU this

1
Cnclmiutd voyage tn himipr* C him tilt your

Aioliiirizifd Frmi'h tinr Travel A^t?tu,
k “^r
iHEFFIEUH ¥OUII ZtST FOR L J V UWQ OR'
61 Q RTl r\
A VC.. N :<
1 i 1 —r
UlHAPFE-lioft %mhh
hu te apv — f p S tl 1 Ji hi ih
n>unlli!M varlirty wild

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m k ru |,y r .V k-iluL 1 'ark
jCHhk* whiirii yati îin 1
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.Liiii pkotupiipL llT- Irom

>’J3-jr ciir.
Vt -m , , F Hi* uttnp^t liwtur> :
in iîilul 1 1 i'll
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h i ii=* 1 1 -5 T»y Ami'ririm E'.prpsd

OF T^ni CrjoJk JkT AltTr A-i
ycfcUT TriTfil tor ou,r
<gwiUR* HEW i rui::^ |l£|.>kl'?C.
H Beo-'w 51 -.. ^ rirrii 4

Lives
willMttJ.ti'TW
"V- . 1 i- hET _i mu re* 1 1 i.sp n C Trip when

i, 1 h']r ijUunr: jJjl jiJ .
Curry hudy tooltitirn'i tat \n
1 1 1
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A J.nup I rcill i* ikift.- F-jLI "ze M-iinpi liiiirUfonsih.
fr i I'iid ] i
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hn!j> cn-r-Kt3lt lOO&il .1h ay .
vlg-ir h-C’tii-’;-- Mu' 1 1 1 i li -« vail help ytHi ktfep rs-frerh bWiid i [JFI y 4*F
Jn cW Io.iji-h wst3i liomr It meiiHfl Yfl tint-

rir- y ^LiLr»-t fiewur
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im% -nITli^vIlrTi". wt i-LI If I iikr- In !n-Jf T«* Bruli !rc„ C& cua
^ uni vwmy riphl how.
A +
LONG DISTANCE RATES ARE LOW

Hem qf if Horn* *i.ompliM.-
NkW Tart fa Plulfltfrlphiq 43* fU ‘lilit* iiiûfib^ |l h *«il

-^j' tHll/U5au(^h4::in
Pi+t-sburgh to Cleveland ... ... . h . 4S^ 'i 'J'l IM'VIS t. 1L l
li \ .'JfrVli
il i r--
St, L-DUti 1
. t Cine inne*! . * . . . . . r . ? & -
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AtHanla tn C1i3ea9& . * - ^ .05

5 ir a ++ ( fc W-nili mortoh, P. C.
1
. . . ^2.00
hu» in IM Stirlir.n-l'fl-^tFliflfl ai^s l-st Lhe arsl 1Hf« m:is-
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It-
n'cLl-fh 4 r.ny ni|^.1 u.4 >11
Fulnral ticju Hi
^ .ai' 2 iy 1 he v dn
t. A ILL Sf NUtaHtl IT'S TWICE fA$t„
TlLfPHONE SYSTEM
S-T L L
EDIXA
¥
Mriifl.iu i j>u Qwfntflk —it yau.

W i m 1 e
Wbtn niiL iii r’iiJuiil luippcihi . 1 irl you

ttrv Uu frurn Iiujim, ,
yuur gfeuLitart
is | br help nr wm&twt who knows w h :
=r
Hi do and HoW to lU> ft.
If ynis im? iraured a ompiiny of th lii
America Fore Group, ycm van bt'Kimt

tlmt no rnntter when? you nia y bo T nm\h
a friend is nearby find ready to eome> to
ycjur j-jJd in cuac of nMd.
(. Mindly you will fLtul him to be im
important dtbsii in his cnnumputy
who I'Hn hike nVrr und handle any rnHtters
Send 1
pertrsinitijf to your ?Ltid inchied

for our help you in many persi.in.il wnyg if yon need it.
''TRIP TIPS" booklet. Bl ^ il3 be rjuvL" tjf America Fort's 40,01X1 agents ur
s
ii [ men loci nie-d tlirou &\ lu us. li ie c6u n try —
r ¥t:l vioftil kinds-
II
li-bw
4
1 lirf anil Le
1
rendering service alld tllliir I ]tJ 3"i VQU Jin;' ejUitEt'd to
r- 111,‘l
id* P fnvl ((luTihilp. -jiptxH when you arc ii i.-urt'd in ii l'uJuLaI stock
nmptmy with rmUnn-wkJe fudlitleai,
D-a-psrJ-nrnl G
AFRICA FOJtE INSU 9AKC.Z \\ i
;t you buy fiEîrnfitr, otiiy the best wfll w’fV^,
gEOUF
F Uu dn’i Lon*. Hr-fr Y&rM 30
<! B Far Ilia name of a nearby America Fare Agent coll
Ne w V&fk Weif^rti Union by number a net ask for Opera lor 35.
<jghHi4rti<Erii
I
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- I
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trip ivnd me. wiri'Oui l-L i-

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CcMon, tflpy *F "M 1 Tlpk
l
I
L+
4 ™
C\if * 7l
;
,c Ccrlincrlai hw'ancu Cc^cjij * fi&liHf-Phsnij Rift Insurance CDHiflanj
Zar-ft 5 'iti h» + Niagara Fit tattMH COTiun* 4 Ameren Easie Fire losBIN* Cnnipan)
* The Fidaliry and Casually Coaipsny of New York
— i
More for Your Money-More for Your Pleasure

Here is a matt n.nt\ v&rfnlile cam- '!• any lyw 33 cum film material; partially ex*
on, ami at a surprisingly low price, 7Mw Ihsn pi'si'd Htm may m!- iliijnj&t'd fit duytiglil. tanner
I
35 mni iM lIIi
t':. a small, Ughi, bandy eye- Contufe; crm phi-rograpti the same object in
Ln i‘3 simgle-k'jjs leilex with the gifal Zeiss both hi art mi d white and colar. Accessories
Tessa? f/2,8 lm*? built-in flash sxnchTcirii^Li- and Hupplrrairrn iiy Icrtnw promt rlmtûpS b
tiQdt and speetl up to 1 * 5U0 uf a £«cockL Li majîincutiou
,
1.7 dLmncteis. sturec
i !
Negafe li I r H Inches. You may sbnH pln i«^ and copying. C jn.tia.ilt-x ss- pri&gd at
p "i
uptight or brc^dcisT, frlfiB rimtidlCT II with h sit -in "vposuri! me-

p 1
li. i: rSee Cnul attest at your camera dcalur;

CtmLafk’s !ui Loth giuufid and Tplit-
try it iJlcttb > tirtitfflfi it LUJi’t dm J1 m ik]nt cm i
ioMRie range-finder ionising, giving a bsfillanit 1

rt-i lues!, D'-jiL C \
i
)
iiprighi ii n lis^> Literally correct and nearly tiu-

tuiid rizP 1
,
Kri yuu i/.lil lo How the fas test action,
CARL ZEISS INC,
Opera lion Is mi believably >impta v sewing 4£f£ Fifth Avenue, Nav* V^rh
a
and fnrmrlng being suc<ttfi|ttLsfcifid in one open-

ban. Tmuliiks are imposîb % such 1
m&qpmm
IiLinkh nr liutible cxpcsLue^ Coatiiikx fates
iSHE CONTAFLEX
ZEISS IKDN CAMERAS. ARE
L
1 KON 1
MAGS IN WEST GERMANY
NCB
Travelers Checks
What a wonderful body guard to have
along! Whelhai you're traveling here
ai homo
dr circurnnsvigatnig the
globe, you’ll have t r^n^rar-T protec-
ti .n for your (ravel Funds when you
carry National City Bar* Travefeirs

Cher k* Spendat e ever,-/. here fust
ke ca 5 h but safer to c.3*rv, because
[f ,
you yi';l a full refund if these checks

are lost or stolen. Cost 75ft pur
$100. Buy them at ydur bank,
Tb& bast ihing you ktlCJW

wherever you go
NATIONAL CITY BANK

TRAVELERS CHECKS
fl-r*.'H bf Th* Fir** Cllr Anrt ijP Npw v nri
Fadf-r^F hitfpOPpr I'rHIIi^n^-f-îjrprsI-ra-iiswi
T>Sr iii iii:> iIli !!-h ii'ni. : J (te-ihgTApliC'— Ii IJeiJiLfiis jc-u

ffow...a friendly ftewardess
welcomes you aboard
Norfft Co^cf limited
Another fhotiqhfful on one of the Wotld'c Itamc
NEW EXTRA SERVICE 1

duriliil^ -i VL j f A-DOWkS Vi mi gt 1 it Llriill-
1
lOW FAMILY RAN f AUti ,iV»j yoti
mjLc-ii WHi fifld #1 i n |rt. iiflMm.iLinJ view S« the vsig,-
. murky fii mi; ifw chîitun— crt(o,t
jujntc (in I he Vhlu Dnnif North gied Rdfkit*, the- C.hL'-ulix grt'.'it nn ctfra hue. citra qomfort inp
L oail [ Juiifril WhtJt moi€ r sfie's
1- n\L r:i. rcifcrti .jh-J ratline plulri.% ci?
a
in reclining iioinzh Pratts nr ffHalt
uJ-ti *i nl^pjMCViJ nw-c 1
you iwvtfi %'^hiM 1
ifutfti L^foi’t Pdllm.iFi hMitu
"S art tarn Philip cmpc acju * TWPr^ cni-ttsa * shiskame * pout land * tacdmi * Seattle
K.lilTkihVp Si I'lJlll |„ MLDAîHBL
, p . 3 - . r-
WE DO EVERYTHING
Great vacation pair... Make traveling Ysaîer., Use lNt*e

fp«iQl Wettam Union wrvitai—
JP HOIK RESERVATION
new, amy way ip g#l P?ip flccotn
SERVICf-ib*
rmgdohQfl*
ydu * n I ™ w|*er« end nhaB yw> wsnE Sham.
TIIE&RAPHK MONEY ORDERS - is.

Id si-nd «t neolrt
pcuty —anywhflfbp driyEim*.
WESTON H UK 101 . CREDIT CARDS-Say

“Clinrgv wh*n you UUipvflprk. ThBii
111
c-srdi are good onywhBro. .. rayHe#.
and the Super Dome Apk oflf Wf i«*ni Union fiv mof# ta-
MhAh Gn feWpluT train J nnrletr.
WESTERN )
( '% **? UNION
Olympic National Park, across Puget Horn . . . d-'ZLt r5£ACH AND vacm* cllll
Sound from Suattls and Tururon. w n BERMUDA S Inrijesr SBttPô EiSjrt

diff* t r
1
nt v.h ra tinnl 1 nd ,
*
J i wtv dr> 1 h i 31 h i
i
. . m SkirUr iroLj in. rfcmtiTi-fl, Superb okiiifiriL.
CS luckv, h i ng v j llugee, ruin furtiyla,

T 1 1 1 J i ; l e l n:- ^fllliJili.l 1,'ln fl. fp; siL>iM. I h l.'j Hi jt J, l-llull f>|.
I'.irntHT Ni#riH + \ 'iifific ttrUnil Hfid mi >ttnl nin rijrt ti&arii . nil rpnitr, -fiflhiflg.. yndtiHeg^ V
resort#, trout- (ikied lakes and ^treoiris. 5^* f-diM !pn.v*l Ajj>piiYl Pif
Make yrmr
yju ytiitn morn ^tr.urdljk 1 BERMUDA HOTELS l^c.
by filing to lIil' Pacific Nurthwcfll oil lliu Wm. -P. Wall *. Rap, 1
N »=b V * n *•
Olymjjiiiii Hiawatha. Enjoy fine food + 31 i fc *1.31(1 r.
_ . ih
1 J, h I j J >
friend ly se r v te i h Su pe
r the f u 1] 1 en v, Ifl ti i
* * h i T i pnala
Dumci ^nd exclusive fpacitun^ found an
F
l "he Mi! w: u k>H* fc E In sst 1 .
The Olympian Hiawatha serves Vtd-

IcwHton^, Months Tin Kin kies. rat id Coulee 1
“tlr eateS-1 LOTI vuTLia-nce
Jim Hurl Puget Sti tiHfl wriuderEuntbi
I i
î«n 4-hD
w 0 fide why lh^y dfliaynii
r
i
insulting .m ettart-SBV-
HjirTy ScmjEHtaL krn, Thv MUwnuke* IIl^lcL
T
ingSfriepmrdHiwmwU FT tir
L’mim S I ; 1 1 iiiEi P f hici§<i 1
1 ,
ILL. EjdbL] FT. £.Ltha rosaEi ta r
PtiFrtflfe nr iu\ f n-r. rn 1 ls re ois Olv
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One- step G-f MASCOT Exp ©sure Meter
Easy way to perfect pictures

The raw Central Klwtrir M&ftcri cSjHiMirp mricr is a nimplc
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Fnt^rr ii.t «mip t fur liUr^-Mr : C i mi n J prlfa nr] * k |'l U.i'rlir Ijirlrr! J C r Li « i *
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L ‘biU iiEkiunu L -Lr unipif
-
:,
Progress f$ Out Most important Product
GENERAL ELECTRIC
I - 1
where your “Home” is

President Liner docks
cruising
fating lb# Orient

,k M
U ii-mHy HijiryubJu
wh&Jl n Juslifv pFEaidt;nt, Liner vacation grad
ln
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with i£ Simiihiirfrîitid lots of time to
,i
iH-ck ch Lr! S\v jiiaiiu ng di?ck spofta, lanoidi', ,
drat-nui moyjmf SofHzrla cwktnf by master

chefs AIwjivh interacting peopk aA criibw com-
1
1
faRnio3i=. CompltU 1
NJrcippHatf corcEflT and utkil-
e'-ImT* fAii yr-uam .ahu.nrd, Sty-week, rciund-vrip
cruise- far^ from $ 3 ] A 7
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j4/£f7- isu-c^ /wn in Orient you “j’vfam
tmVIri pycry •{ wjwlsia from California Ui Hawaii.
fn Ajpcrrcu/' it1 your aipcu&uitutfU'd riu.tr-
Yokohama, Ilona Koni;, Mnnihij Kobe. -Bid ntd.-.Ti
reUiru vbi Hawaii. mom [or a rrftVflhing si\&?pl
Tas itdd l‘4 on US^HnivnLl pontons fmEy.
Sire wur JVmd for AMERICAN

//vi p cfetfrripf jne i/dlEndUF\L
PRESIDENT
LINES Gt n&\ ai oncî
an CALieofiMU st. r sam francisco 4, cal#.
H|AJt
M EARTHQUAKES'
fft# U-rri oJ FPU’n^T
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Handy MAP CASE
PrertMUtfot tif* * rpnoixf froni .pra-n f r* tpa -r
Qir-k’*i M.i. i^LPuc-i-cd- Howfl'i Celii-jrîii., M n* « q.

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Lab
r for National Geographic
IONOSPHERIC swishes, whistlers,
weeks; tAe down rfiorus
Maps and Map Indexes
Upih z’lfc-'" cii kijnjh ji± JC la J.DOO Hljlm n:in-i+ I lie wall'll,
thill. ,-j lnîr-i J\ itfi-rtdhrtl Ur Pin.' pdl##f Mfii>j±i!< Dwhnm^ I i> L-arjî I 1 Lti.ip ‘i.i-m- r% tn firp--
If h.ph m^lji-,, (P W.cwit *p. W *p| Y Kuri c alld U4-£.i t^Ljbc NATH 'S .U.
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feur «TJi|"rp '/wr hr^rn ipi?ri rj* li^- iJI.I.m 111 l.c‘ iirill 111 I I lz 1 Ir
mck Fjiilfc-. fl-j-r.klv imFj.1list;j ele:tr-rii y Dpefi
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Sl.ilcn jiiiJ : l-,i'\\ T.l tl“ iri L . S. hjii.li.
Obf A s«h4 -^. bn_.fi. oNi_t fnOM

National Geographic Society
— LIU FT. 50?, V.'riaHlh'CTON 6, D. c.
Hfttftore ilsc Nstlunjl Gtuiriplik — It IJoatiaei yuit

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1. 2
SAFETY is a far greater problem now!

remember K
M -<vpHyi\u
mmti .nid tEfccr- \

wat [ijaL
the ^htiruleM cnrrlitjjq^
may remember* Uxi. how tnref|il w
-^niis like l\k‘ above whelt
irse
npptnftrm^ mi oar
r=jn(o7
axii-unu in mure than M.lXiH)

vehicle tUdik'Qil Hi
tattliliitf u
redtuwi
-
yuar,
Tli-i t loll
Daring the sumxii- t. mm unit* oo wcelicnij cm: hip or

drivrre were -slid hfu* evcmTneiixik pTecaulkiri'i l« a yahl li.it Ei; iltthlCRte lOLitirt^ Lire C^Vidly tempted Id tv CflU-
inmttfs with the wdrtokirfut new niudMircA, leu. Siizh driver* ufr l^ûfruly in. 4 hurr^ to rejah dwir
AuIowAUb win Important then* bat It h fbx JaUhutiEnuu .iriiJ -ol'kti (rv to urowLl too ttiutiili fflUeu^c
more «> now Thb fi cvâaw trie rnmtern i;ar p. sudi a e:j:>> too litlk- lime.
*ncS im n-y rfi machine * .tnii brcaaM: [crtUy 1
1
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I hi- -l\-\ LivrL-q i hr It
j
rru^- mil) '•. .1.1 r
n . 1 .1 . j. m rilU-L-
Oil! *lrc«(4 acwJ liil^h axe crowd eti with 5K mil- ikhi* A ._ iLoii fob muiiii mg l^<S" ii h fan So, before you ^*e
h
tjffl n’gjWrcd rnmor vcr-ick-Su hiin nermore, most oly

bch hid Mil wfoftfJ thin taimiTit L', •autild it tiPi be ji geiad
truvM wrfd kul cat wJieni tsi ine-dmu n '-‘etudes wen." tlic idea to c:ite u your driving habit* T Here rt A -quix at
xarL«po nation
pti nci pw I FfcuuuiF <if I
iIi.ll yau -cun imIcl

!
Vuur nw# ilu-tfirmlru! Iiuw %tfc
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Safe numirTne
r 1
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dP
if ihe (oil or EhufJroiti you. wur CuEiily and ocluiri d£a the mud will he.
tour Yu nr
Co Li nt 10 pornt^ Enr e ac h c|LeftStQn Scnrp Pexi&at Scum 100 Seore
! ^ne yn-r bfiikev in pterper MiiPittlK rttkn

1
JTX. y un keep m (tne ^
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bvn ihe top ^
a h II nr it Siftncn 'iim 1
IIlp um eiifddJIv nhwnt alt trarFk rctul.i- r in . an ultauu pToCMsajon* j^nr nappmo
** Ltonn. îirt.Lutarl^ *Hulu pw i f
* *
durtnf niirhl drnmp *
IVt iiu w.lic! i’il .

- I i l:I l>L icl -ji jisiI 1 1 . j
mij li.r.i! . im ji l In .'ki -.L lie! ‘>irc -.liil line
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ir;- 1 ir uai L ir.i l- ha l ihfir ilri-i. ' --
iC .'fi ie h>ri 4i fur
1 >7 h fiiu iiw.tw *141 n in

% mu Vi iêii \on icct . Do you Sl|liici lit JIY<|^le lltltf ncFOfit hi Upping
** J'liLlfiied or :U
'
** ttf chjnîiH JjiCV 1 n;in
1
Dd +>lj drue i.-iLiL c i

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Îhum pLr Ji!v- (to jriMt ^nufciB iftcr di-i U- ilitp
5* 1 n-n 1 1 -e-.pl tall . eh itncn, asr dviui
'
yn’ijf ail* ji • .. r 1 i'riji. .jWtJil
I'.Hti liinv i mi ULf- the iduei . run rid yekifwl) iJui ustlr drivihil 14 ,
at the mpmertt, Wtir rfigM
imj'C'n.ad lespnnifhililv Then V-tia Will be bcJLcx j .t Btlcr driver. Mirit importantly, yem
will r«c doing. yemr part to make OUT itrati and highway* Ic.b hajardmti for everyone.
M-c Ira pillion LkIb tniurtinfq Crunporty

I Wq^niji AyH I Ntw TQM IQ-j N y,
Melr lifan Life Pfcyê -kîlI nit j a' p j rl

1
your
boo^JeL, ffHip'r T'-rcr J
i^svrened mpony Niiflir

« Ml 1 ^ r
StVMl
I Mu MP»i | C«ry.
I L
More built, more sold, more wanted than ever!

pr M
T\'mflc h tbt? tin tv way 1
rl* s-c?ritw tin mtiiit l£et jpivH niTriitin r nlJitT riiJfT -hitiijiIv % ‘lLH 1 rntM.'iisf 1 '-
jy«UltlClM l! tU3W t’LLF pf IftWl! Vd.lht . , . Chfiplfti np III Ww V-S I itp tit SfPD hpV) hernm with
A .'jI .L] l>. iir i [ jl: Jrtvlt: jtieI rnrrl LiFiLLiiiCt,
I
it'jf the vfiir',i
c -
1m 1
iTifisn imr-THmstii of ;jli tran^roi^sibnii. Pohptf-
"mji.'l nty" iti
‘-E tuu ,\j jinhil iif thii Fltrn KiilMircw? Pitvitt StpiTiny I 1
^ err Brake?*
pri'bn'p^j — Wiflhpriilj fin t urjfr/uij.^ fo Power Scikti , . . tliti .ill i\ui lad vtmer. — luTi'f
C/lfE^ itj ft > n-um/irrx'
Game discover how holy tin power jiml took n|-
Ni.jl]i(ng lung. km\ uLtn.1 tvpf ha* [cadL'iJbltip ktiv vnanu in * Cliryshf- Set? wnf
apptMrvcf on ilii ni.nl hrEiirQ, Wli-nn H
^ 1
1 s efrfiA' .1 Qsrvdt'j Dealer jijl 3 LirnuL^L- Ett i y.ke ihe thrilling
ChryxIiT k
and ww ur&n rani U> dp ,
ft. r
.
. vu
p
iOq SlLllmn-LVilLij RIDF‘1
îee Sôuf Dealer. .Take Ihe lOO-Mllliun-DeiJJ jt fîdu

. \
Vol, CVTH No* , 1 WASH1M iluX July, 1955
My Life in Forbidden Lhasa i
Escaping frrjin Internment in India m the Sacrnl Capita! of Tibet,

an .Austrian Became the Dalai Lama s Trusted Tutor
By I Ieinkji ii Harris*
If "ilk /Wtfj/ftf/finjtr from Ph&Intgr&phs fry the Jttlk&r
T
Mai
13E rodey
by
hlliHiflfHJ
i if ilit-
(rail led
Kyi River*
shoes in tatters find nur feet bleeding
wi- ruimdftl
into the bm-Ltf
a liitV
.
1 ;\ha Lull'd
1ll 1]« Before

VaL
our
After several ahordve break? we reached free-
dom
ship-
luirl
Our
strut! gin
" nninidtr-i
turned hack, bur Aufschnailer mij
and Muffed tuir way bCfuss
1
'jip.ilksl by the hard
I
10 Eu\ the Lotal^, wlruer pal-w. of I'Jbtt'i Tibrl i

h - 'late
L
Chung Tang,, n wasteland lhat
Dalai fauna, its: golden rout* ablaze in I he even ihe natives shim in wlilIim [p <^r-. n .md
January *ijn, tO). Wt* Ltd subsisted on raw yah meat and
1
Lhasa v>.\> only eight miles away yak- blitter feu and drier! meal \jn( ainw :tr
1 frit ll fHwlifen nsinjiuLinii Uj viuL tt\ my hist, fdu-r Ji month* wandering ill which
nf
knees and offer a prayrr >4 [hjinksiiivipir. jflwta We hnd almost dwn up hope hr RokLen ".d.-
6 r>
l\> did the lluridhut pilgrims whu tere mir of ihe Ffttftljl Wpfr in >ighl, (page 8)
tom pun nns i It seemed imiKis^lifi 1
that we Fvrii now- i

-lie troubles ^ ere ml at iin eml.
had readied safety, thal hut agony nf cold Wr Hrrr tn>i Kissers in Tibet- unwelcome for-
and hunger iinr] danger lu\ hr hind WV m eiufit'fs in ;i lam] where rvefy ituih i-- in-fiiil-
had watkni more thun liOO miles arros< ihr den to lisî-nl ii trawler >vbi • larks wrkten
most forbidding terrain m She world am.) hjitl auLbijrily to pass. Our rlcthes wrir in rag^,
dimltfd 62 mountain p some as Ugh as our iippeamucr unkempt and forbidding. W
/O.tfQO feel ( map, page 7 1 liail nu baggage animals and no money to hire
U hi just \i> wuli, t have since felt. lhat them. Purely (he gati-^ if i].if huty dty Would -
tui man otn fnnttrfl ibi lututv UhuK would k cluserf n* h.t,
have thought wben

l
i eler Aufschnuittr .and l Wi: i.U’Ctdtd on i>Eir

i
List dt!spi niit grnTrbSr.
wr left nut native Austria in 1039 as uirmhi-fs At Shinudoneka. iht last vill-tee towB^n us
German Xjknp I’iirkt Expedition,
of the hail and Lhasa wi l
bed uui The or local
wr known we faced Hum? imprisouiHriu .ind nl Uriah With as much authority as one eaji
\x tteperalt escape inlo Tibet . where vre wen? riiflttiwtiij in fillhy wu littridiêrl
to mum fnbfod 1 Jmsa with a color mmem? uurseTves as the ad vance guard of an impur-
War had trapped out cifKîtion in Karachi L.Litl fi ji'c'il ! wnissfiry und rlffhiundviJ pick .Iid-
Enemy aliens, we were interned m British JS muls and ;m escort to Lhasa.

prisruier-uf-fiTir im rn p in India* Wr Tin mu Miratyjouily, the iKinfNP lirlirvrd us. \
Utiuetn dedrkrf to attempt llh «ijjp.pe uver rPinV.c'L and driver Were yilau'il at ûr db-
the towering HlntuUyai, |i-.--lL A* in dr rum. we wolhefi the Um few
,i
drew cnaf.is, studied Til ie Lari, hoarded

I
miles w Tibet % qipittiL
money and nwdiritics anri other (Wri'imaU The valley of the majestic kyi River fanned
The Pom Id, Forirett uf Tiber's Gmt4ctn£t Brood* over the Flowed Kyi \
I s.iî iiriltah-starveil thu iiuihtir
irul m\ n CQlEt[iimton> TVIit .jufsehruiiti’: siacjscitiJ; lio lhi± ipefc early in mr,
-alter :l Subiantaif- |] -m inti h flight from n w^rlfme IntumnaLvEil i:im|i In lurliiL OHiciub urdrrL^ ihtin lo kvuu, ihcii
trkfiird. ItxtfucFrdumy (apvr&eoeiJai Wir\[ Mr ItalrtT durtnc ^fven you* in Lhf veiliuJ ta.n4 tKt'on^ i !| r HirHilayLO.
HrUrf. ttrd f]iF?m Invaded Tibet, hi: beaune nkatil -arid uilw n-l rhe Uaki Linu, it* a nil £ ri| .‘.ral ruler.
:
3 Si nMhfl t
i Bfrfefjtefc “Btpw
Thrtt Spiral T<.irnbfcMirk t\w Western Gttte Co LIiâ. list ForbitUU-ji CUy
^L'drinj: Tlibcl”& futilluL Mr Ifnrirr ptwd Ibc^r u n nf iMîlati iml ivlTIftu-^
i v i-^ Ilka ill ulhtr tnei
m I l'T‘ Ml* Ml itjnd Ivj-i Abut:
V-LlltV, ]>.uj;:l !lu DdM L.;l£LI_l\ JU-.I > L_lI old -uin
Jr.Lt 1 1 .1 Ltuii TDiUliflA tkfilcu' vru
•
r.risolcrJ by pint*. Fcsrlully the author apprnach'-d .in "irrhuay in the center inml He ir*t nan: cuandi would
auiic hmi ur Sum liiro bfttl iftilriid tie found onto befits
, vijtil al Ltac wrtd pottil iliac?
> !
Tin.- Nwtl uhal Geographic Magazine
before U3 ][ke a crejtt caipet. TIHl'iI fields ami fine- tonkin^ e.-sc.nbhshment, We ci-uEd so fm
marshes and [vltIl:- batdwwJ the ihi pdalti farther; i»yr weary limbs were through. We
iliHl n\m unbroken £> a towering wall id IMfdirf into thr mnnR&vti s courtyard, pnid 1
naked. sloping rnuuulauis hi thr ay^fll 4i t >M the donkey driver, mft collapsed hesii]-.-
u[ tfaf Roof hi ihc Work! the panorama seemed 4.i ur scanty fioE^sjnnaR.
perfect beyond reality. A maiit lied, sc reaming as if put^ttnl by
Tin- TViIliI.i's rucf and white facade loomed demoi]?.. An incredible miuibof of people
[arper and larger, '!
kc lOtl-year-old palace cruwdeij into the i uursyard. Dogs barked,
cfeawji* mt -d v. jaggtfd ridmirs which rise 1 • i
family alike shooied
.rervarst* ;inil Artd Evcrv ,
r
fikr SenlinrI* tmm ihr viillev floor wore 1 e vukr w*-, crying J,
Lb. not cutnef Do not
an it if of supecn nturfll jjtantleiut, ns if it we] Ini c uni #
irp in massive slabs of stone front the earth Aufschit|Lik a

F anr] I could tml budge.
itself (pages 2 and 19). Gmgeriy J pulled off the rorminj of my
hurTiEmade yak-skm bools. My ftrl were
Gate Mirk? find of Flight covered with bo?ken blisters, l/ltiding, hot,
Wt Hood he Fore the hirer ukml chfiftrii?. I
miil mw.
itufiai, thm bridge a gap between ihr PntAb The tbrrartg stared t [ncnediilnus, at our lotn
and nejebl iurmu Chagpari A ret] robed ntank ft* c Vhvy forgot therr ffsir of punidim^nl
Emerged from $m archway in the s witral

I i r aiding a k-rrhirldcn fnreignef- S wuman
dwrltti (pigr 3 if), Here was the gateway whn had turned u.vuwuy from hit uwn huutr.
to Lhasa, the rail of the tartun>in road we then followHl us in curios Ely p ufferred yak-
imiiiT H.i Tjir nu'iSyiii.n uf
bad imvch^L i .i in. ill ‘ ir tc t
The ti3«>nk turned iûk\ and .\Lif=chiiaEter boded lastH like nectar.
tea safi. and siida
Others .nujcdil tum/Wt fl parched Inriry finur
sod I hoiked ni ftacb other in anxiety. Where l
were flhe guards." hint visions of lieing 3

thai with lei forms Til jcM A staple diei.
thrown min a diiTigeim nr, weirsc, lurned back. From wfen* l|u ynu Edhtt?^ -..mvorn?
cmr irrtiirmenL only beggars stixul vigil
’So n*k&\.
1
ni Lhasa 'i cate, !t was, we learned later,

'
Frotn she C^hang Tang/
believed inifMjssililr fur Liitauthorizi-d travelers
No sentinels were
Journey Asb.ijiishcs Ltmuan^
i"reach ^he gacred imrlitls.
remade red necessary* The wvjrd îrfad riiruuch the courtyard
wide street uftetttri before its, Peddlers
\ and into the striêi. The crowd was nmaÊd
oispFêd M fiemptbK assortment of delicacies tJuM we spufct Tfbeiitn, rvim mnrt asimu^hfd
and she smma nearly drove ms mad Wf had ilia i wc had creased the Chang Tang,
r
walked +? 5 mite* that day without a L ie xo rtie lost ling gfrnip p:Lrt^d to admit an im-
vmI. Kul we had no money fmr Umi], Our 1‘KJsing Tibetan in rcd-w»ot d - jk and violet-
List rupee msust tu the dunkey driver. ijj
>i\k rulM't
Ij w . flu t- r and
i it >j .
i
-.1 \iw tiies
\ buil t of stone- '
l ull me, please, wfm you are/
1
Hr spoke
mad fined the iiirwLs, Prayer duss fliUêd in iaultli:-* LngHsh +
from every roof, h was dusk, and thr wzsrmlh M first he refused bclkve Lhrrr were
tu
of thr afttrmmti ûn yielded to thy bitter chill only two ii:-. i
'i
Vhm of our pri^rL'Sj thmojjh
of rihrUm wfiUcri \Y* must find ?d idler but Ihwh tind .spread like wlldbrc, Officials I: |.j
Liliel has neither itetajircuitfi mu- Inna.

Hesitantly we appnacbed a house. A iefy-
hsit r
p
iliC glri, s face froae In horror. We retreated
With Ifi'iunsng SnuJi-î, Lhosa lAVefl ->
into the Cnn -cimi- of -let fierce up-
-(reel. >
f Jreut 1 httr Weddi^ Day

ntiei.os bkauls and wt'fU'hrd htbuts, \\ the »
Ik bur i tmuitiuif- (jiLce pbu- in Umsa,

next house ami it her maid shouted abuse until
Fi! Kudio, non <if n cubing tninlsior,
eputiri not unidt rstand why i her advance gtiii rrb (iiipLav?i thE Ofinlt 1
R" 10 i±irS tiiTV|iJulî earnikfi of
mI nti icnp-irtaiUfardgb persirtu^je did nut cy nobility. Hr *iut> mu twl4 hii iti.ni! hath into iujj-
lisi'Jl until iii! pfiM^.% Tiflussniittu]^ ff.r U-fivmiftirnl
w hfera they were supposed tu .me bUip wander- I
stnirf, Ccrcnr.aruj1 jd-tui h uni yilks uiim-Ji hii, britSi;,

ing around Suttwfrdii PhuLran^. W-b^ InmcFh U canty, -,
t ..ir> mntL
A tbi- far side of trmn we rearhed n fash-
i b rr Inrchmd
ionable neighborhood and paused before a c Wi!|lm^lr doi lFtj- F? jpr iii .nip y.« Eirii rish ilqErtf
-
j
1 1 « 1
flbtficr, and ll Servant led tts to ihe nuhk

niim i house. Than glut lliit! his voting wife
i^rn-i i i-‘l us w4 rm]j% Thefr five plump dnldr«>
îzed cii vs 1
1 1 L> 1
er
TJw next day the Foreign Ministry sent,

word thru we could s.tuy with Tiling rue.
irmkT mrest, unld thr Hbetiifl Ke^tenl
hi mst
returned imm a distant ri?trv,it The Regent,

rutef "l I
lie till I
Mil lililtl like I I ycilMild t>iililE
Lama natdied I iEs majority, would ilpridt! out

lulu I r,
The IliMiiaio fkS'e

1
, \\y nature, a generous
.md w^rmbcnrli d people, NpW Jins they
ei iLilrl It-gulk m rsvr in, every IliMtrv
1
was.
lumped up6fl us, The GovtmmEai sent
l n >i “tn- tn m,i 1 1:
1
su its- and shtora
The T h i ivîTie- prowrlerl [bi'n^L-ives tn uivf
us ji pleiU-ant bednf*om of olir awn The Swecl
itu:i:U54f- hurain^ jtin^wi' poured fh*m it-
"t
inin stave This w.i_- a great luxury, for
Lhasa has m> fort-ts. uicl wdad IS luirnr from
srrqn ih^LaiLL'es by yak?. Even r*> Jr mi lies il i i
cuitcimarlly bum only y;ik rluiig,
Strni-ifl^rrs Hw W Sîal Lunn^
We because thr -.r Options -

if I hu^-i Aristn-
•
hi i fi in furJiued hrncude? cuid stiâmotl
In the Thar uni i
‘
imhir. hrlu^mu uit'Ls. EveTj-
one tiHik crent de Eight in i'<ur inte rjf bow we
v
hut! hoodwinkod the Shingdongka oFiin al.
The visit qf CteOTite T-aropg, g Gfnemnioil
afilrinl and bt? ûi ul a former j^rantl minifutelr, i
-.ul the holdac In ill uproar. T sarong was of

liimhirt r;mk than ThaiiEnnCi and iiuMi t Lhasa's
ngid protocol woulii not urtliniiriEy îsit ht-
I
,i m ie The you tig a risr h i
r;i L h m rvr r
,
p?j avn S
Hnc-athlirc* in Thill aJi 1' vvt i divrri inv s.'iir-,r Be had le-imt-tl Enîsh irs
1 1 l' Aethur Ri^r^ I Hu Jiihiidiishiuri i Brtlhdi sdiou! In [mlia p hsni ThEmgimi.

^nnlk'M an Uua. Mr Huttr *>un IuuekI TârurLg listened daily to neirs i;m -l r.ulcu
r m j n '
')
i-nifitt IS built j r-iric'm-i inr ihf I '
ll il L#ltsft
j
I- iwtTtd by 1 1 witn 1*1 1
m j
tel ftI
I gen enat i *? which
am 4 *StLi is Uzm Ki~i ftlvdr fli *uh Fl< ilrr'iv itui 1 *.,
From we
he had put together himself
|
luni
brjr2“-r;jj«*LS lffardebT. ujlrEvil Aw! u«Hiitiirfll
ii 1 1
-
1 1 1 iiiirj; :i ‘.r Tilt- Til H"t.LJi Uovi:rrmsEiEt rpwlrtife4 h-amed 'd lb<
L
rt'fltb that fallowed V, arfi]
i 1
! 1
1
1 1 1 ',Ul|l A i.lliiiiri) f«Ht J It ils ll I u r H7 ! hv War It, Despite the etui of hi xstllltits . we
Thu Auniriii-n iniiuntain dltnlrf -mil jkwir pn ifrrftf were not to return home
U. £, \rirn duliiiftf!?, UwucL L|.» rank iialittcJ
Ysn^cJaenLi. TssroEi^'? wtfe, Imbi^lnl svjc Ji
him tv THji-i^H hiil Hi n rlrtiiScU In porta ind r
One
,
liiijghter istid nuE^vtionii. of Lho5a 5 fedr-

|i!|n| - I » i u L'ln Lrj II 1'Ji-fHJt liiL£iJJ.f, ht Hi US* lltL flunk, Ul
'
^ ,qqc Jotit Ebcmnn Lbin. a iiicmiE in'uk m\ thu Tibrt- £:'v| wiUiieii, fthe cii".tomaHh Oir-îJ In 4 raid-
RhuLui border. Rlftfii'cclan frt±i lii.ilc Etl- jsjrv.iHl Uiw-ittipetl aptun md u triiingLilar Liris^
style headdress studded With luri.[un>r- * urul.
received mi muny buport^ of simn^T- -lab.ji:: amber, and seed pîlf knew the use
ibe itrtt*t5 ifuii they had (jeot the pupressum nf rmi^ ponder t\U£? A). hpsiirk, inf! I
u eji jiu n- invasion was Uiidef Wny Oilier mnkiitg iimMms aunt to ihi fitnrn- 1
The mil ileuum tald he wnultl lake lb InEn £i+r* and stayed deep jtitu the Jkiuht. Auf-
hi? In i! riw GuvemiPeiit would permit ll- sdutttilcr and worried t&t we meunveuiener I
He went to the mneislnit e to tok mulhnrifci,- II ur tester, but they .'tssprurl us

host anr.l
lion An eitnifd woEiiiin identified our In 1

tie
1
they had never known sui'h nn exdHtiji 1mr 1
factor as Thangme. I he \f lifter of ElecJ Hdtv. Our atitdH minor erlehrities. howewr
r
T
,
L
,
mii- i
’i" ,
i w-i* _: run led inr tmr temporary did npthinii to rase our vnrrr> uvsf ih*? fulurr.
i 1 I , V 1,
'
Tin Forbidden ( Uy of Ijutsa.
l+tfinEr,-
n „
.*.*»£— 1
r
. •
V :;: M mattery
,
__ __., ,__ __ KMi iCfremm
-‘ VL-V-. - - .-.-
Tbi^jn^c'cTiijJfcdund
j_j.^ .. .
iwy . -
1 f*
&*P*m Wofifti ter, iVfitrr/i Gate
-
-
,/p V : IS
~ LmuAffmM'f * Elect fit ftwOTtaEU r:
/ 5
M°-sb? _ \V j
KviifolLirv i
J ftrn*r C/ty
,»l«rt
i£SSS -
fft’imrmrli * s **“ ^c1 ,
N3k5?
4 r
Jr-m r**?
jpr -‘
-m. *
-
.
,
- r
Mftui . :>..
,Tllr ir
iWdjiwtfr - J-Shrmi sf s
.vJ-r; n AfiUbiii
'“
•
DrorAttfe Cfiflid/ iS&UBfTurt-BJf l*"
r' f
^ rJinfinrt f>/ T lupvmsm a f ^ftti Au tsUim m i \
IMM.- fcufrf mrn Pa-F 4
> .'•
! A - 1 3
.'
£r.'.' JTIfJ .^1..‘ .‘ifrtl.i
m
Hy i ‘i
1
irar
**
J
W C^lvrflei^ \ ii I itfliiimlvT mil Hurrsr Drirw

he *r>T Dir'tjik^l Md|i - -p
r -
I I- ifJ IJilisll <
r k - ' ^ v .
..
jx'I.
Njlitieul
ii n ii j-icnmi-iiT
1 i^n.iijphle.
Iti C fu
jjfK>toitmpl|Ei
! i . ,
Iriimi il
1
nr (hj
uibjtmr Wurit-
1
Vuilm 7i±'
^ i r r'f*"*
pi J I J lU Jiirvi'v rill blLi l> Lit.''.. Via TEhnliili I hull.' i^,
he *efiT thnn a new Th«i 4 n]iTr im > aiit af The 5*n=si t>
‘1
Thf imirUmi.'iH pnJVcd ni efoI value I* tb*! ptojeSs

Tht l.lrirkh-nr a antrred im^Tmlr waJk dirks
*
., ?
iVjiv*
£ **»> '
v
,« i£>u
,
//
’.C-"
v '
4 ;
'
•
J
£r^-
,
NMiJ^ A!’
.x
[JLiirJ’r* ins»cf dtv Eubwr* filth ftw Ptrtili, hjiiJ die l i

.
iWW-bv wÊIj-iS i>{ Sho Dllrtims much hk fi it.ii 1 1 :

ortf ''•"V.’rJ I
‘
timing'- - -~jr
rL‘ifefc£ijci! hi Uum Jijduii Ik <jq ilk uuo klrl* r lii- rr.E — —JJwesrfif.pSHCTr
f
of thf Inner dlv.
\l;I FdmJUlrr T i r Ji. 1 1 rr
A
I
diziiiîr
1 h;‘ L ini^Lbui t&
-iJ.EtusI LJiJ
LIli
<i-li
-Eicilitb.
Mr India
I iEril>n . 'liUi i-nril on 4 I.J,000-4u4U tilalrEi nmld
a4 L'nifii
iipiikvr liri jh
jsiil Npw
njij;i!
1 h IviiEis
nsuin.ui I;- PTaif turru: latilurit
1 ilii
jF
1
, rr '
/ Wa? of B**fi
iupcrtimpo>i;d nn Lb- T mm <4 StalH^ wcmkl »lrr|rh
inmi wtHEi'-m Teia.i L-^ liir Afckntir anil Jrutia I hr aj iJiC
Cull ni" Mv^ji ri Im JlUnijci-

*:. n «i- > 1
Hu' Rwnl Hml hmt yet rettHned in I hns^ thro lit- in a r-n*m vivStl wflli frefteoefe arid
itrd uiilO madti hi> ^tL*ciisi-i iii
t
we wen- living carvnl |

lilturs. -MroTthm^ mir arnw hill
i kIi bfifTnWi^] t fclln- Itftij^t h we iiffttel ihr I lk.rn scarves. She
rhiTi. f l^J it i.3 :ev- jfter ciur iniiii^jiiduii^ ar* ?JllE]ril ihr|( p UTII'^H -C Efri.lv îhr jihook uut
rfv^l m« were tuiTnnv'iwi.1 to 1 hi* borne >4 the hands, a custom alien to TU^llo#;
L idkti Lutia s fûnih', The impreôfi \\'t
TTwIr- wr lrJt> llle Re i.h tiI

Molktf »>[ Tltt'c? LivErttl ( jm ds
-
iicGisratj \\ t IbsuTji'il inirnthi the rhjjtii- *, !.

I Ii'- First Family proved i*s rajêr as tbre
mts instructed its lvi« tu hrluvr- Ccih'ni-u.-I^ ThaaOTu^ EueMf?i io hear ni rkur cfuîhtr of
Liiej supij.ilici] ub with white silk L'eronionlDil Lhe ( Lamp's fadier,
teuaK Taiig, The J'iiiini
^ciity in profit iu i he ^Grcttl Mui tirr and tii II. piu-talltil stiEiti with Ltmmhr- h<iir
J
Fat her '
Ktan ran L-- v

al] joined Lh ror u-a,
'
* rTi'Z E l"i i i if c- i
Lob=4mtc îmten. their
change i 5GtrvtR, olh-d khuttii, In ilm J4-ycarri^kl monk soa- get upon us with qnt'&-
numoeT oF calling tunb > fpiiu;p 4 lS). I'-irEs and nud« fierfeetly ctetr that the
At the i.limt uf the rurniJv^
^
ihrw^ton- !P
tnan- luLil Turn. i'vptLted i ti* hear ffmu him a foil
sJiMi'i. sLauiditie mi a muileii at tht fmit of die account of our visit. Uihsin^ Littit lirauiie
f Vo a I
ii wft found an ri '
Ii i-fiMO prayfit whct^l am 1
of my b«A irieods.
that 13 ttrrrted tiny .tmi flight hi-y men hsi^d Tlie fireat Mother bits lerl ;i reifiarlcable
Cut dir
1
]*< *l> r \Vi> i

- : «
L
tidtî tir l hr j£CCHUl BoOfv Mft* T 'ill 11 Ihe recoin ii inn of her sou as the
The Gytiyu*ii Chrtm}. the D^Lti Lamns incam.il Jon. of 'heurî Tibet
t |i£irron gnd, '-s
mother, si I In quirnly grace on n moiJe^L the frimik hniJ been simpk fafintrs in 1
.i m-iur^
.
+ FlfiTfiw Dr.igtirra
Spîul Ruin Water
frtutrl a 1-amn.'* Shrine
Three parjinvEii lrtftin ltd
IlMVy liar i err no raoii tiiih 71*
jittftci Kiwf
*[ niifl lulU t>n thr
iif list* VYofM ati trret ip: you, I
*1
Summer pa rl uulu rl y hnmi^ 1 *:
icrorchimi day* Hi iky- hi gll

I . h.iJEn Thiin tvfrynar Mr-i;--
Jnr trlkf, Jnij Li: i liiiii i n 1 1 r > 1 1
I'Ninmfl&r I hr Orar.L:- n f • iii> "i 1 1 lii
j srVffi'iJ niiis r-.kfet'f, Wtan llm

niL'dintti ftut-i inlu hi* UandL!,
Tiljctjjjp huL L- iSnii^t thrit u
sod htta Enlvrfff hh I inily Ei) hear
ihoir pfiLvcri,
Tibet an* abnitimJiir Jiftil ns
(hr miadnJei ol datO* l>?-
Itavr lJiiH it ttuj=i ring. ttrikr iff
P ci 1 alii iitiij other foolv tmiJdiiip*
nf LhiiKt T&4’ tiuvrnimLrai
1 1 1 rtf JtLTESd* I : tO |
SI I
1
’, i r. | l_uh
rHsavIfr an ji jcii-.ln- them ii
L hey Laih
O MjLllinLli UHi|.B'ii4iLr - |
II .'
1 1J|
HnmiTk rcd j
Tfl ti
Gleitm An*p the TV, mbs
rd Lomiiit Jvmrits
Fmufjrii |-id>-: Mnn kmm they
arc ni'jirlni! the 'ut-tiHl ill y wlwfl
they sSinip^ hhii vlriUnt IN-
iTUIll I I i.L' AU UiLttFtL[L£ [fawn I-1
s
-
From drep cir~j i3c slu. momi-

a
fnrntii i ->t-xl_l rist Ibe raid
ci#p{H'd mau^nkumi pi mr.v&i
lûili T.i-tniij T Ijft an? I irnprrrl
coSii to rh- hoJp menu-

meats. Thiy icruCcti i.e.i j > : ; 1 1
Imwi the rnnusitl with fLUiiJk

]\ ->rn.s, bltl ft'sht AiialesaJc snin-
Int Ibty niiisr-r l he ipirih nj
Krirth.
Rnl Tr>hf*rS tiwipkt, feme t>i
l$il Bviwt Ail h| ci « Sn- FivuH

-.is. il iii nafdiiaiiujt imi eLn
cravcI-and-niLril ru^L
* 1 in k.] ini; Hl'IIs and

\ I . _ i L h\\AL.eS Kcpcl
she of Evjt
Theie utem *\uxk symbols
1
V. ili.lt ftS i:l t3lr ] ; I ’Li.L - r 1 1

> fi
m Hirnlflr ^rit trtULb, FfrUf ttflHp*

l.n-Lnw Llo the body at rh. I
1
1 1
3io.loJ Lama ;
jewel* ami a tan
at eal-J encrust Jiin maLuoLum.
The three sriJderJ spires Tepr-L-^
letil 1 1 ; - ki ! > 1
h'.'hJiiu: Huddhb.t
rrrttrt Beih rftii rtUt ibr
dw \ftm-; jlfcukr iae£.^ promi^
lljL ^tamsB£nG£+ BtiluH #nd
hp-med mc> miffs ami wine- I
dnanfc rtehl* n awiy Jerlta,

I
<1 bL JjL>tl:i IJjJ'i 14 BtM:!I> ]1j> I »
9
A 1 3
“H h^> uur privile^t 1 '

she
-under], in- ym> Hirê funui lo the
Church. Our eldest son T.i«t$tl ,
Rim;[HH he icci^m&?d km# aqo

;in
.£.*» murmtion Lnbsuru here
in the n>bcs of A monk. a? destinr.l
In # s't'lib.iU* life anti ^rtdiv A* ft
GovcTTim^L Aim tin bu\ i* ufifcet* 1
hi .vjiuitol lh Chinn. Our fourth son

wm miK m Ct- thr- L.-tt im! fcnixr
fe> 1
h-
when hr wa^ twn year* nlil

\ lm-MIth hilt't till 1
. lAynyum ( IiiTUii
3Pivtt bErth lo a filth »uq. He (00,
was reoo united ,t? un ui-:irim[ion,

Clio s
n - 1; 1 1 :• 1 1
-
!y the Great Mother
1 r 1 11 1
1 m Lzf d the qsisiente nl iwn
c5 ii uÎm 1 livi!-. living in the family
bottle. Despite their hippy duttii-
ttamc 11 T Hitt buuhdtuld. women have

no voice in Tibet s public
Ruler i Lii* Many NntikO

Trix-tain*. our hosts erplstimNl,
<H
hi'vit use the evpnvMtri. Duiai
LamaT \tunj*uliati For "Wkle
Ocean /' Uh subjoin v]>cuik "t lie 1
Wttralnl r liter. ±y (iyatpv Rim-

pofk^ “Esteemed Kimjz- To hb f
irrsmiHllatr family he h Kitmhw,

“the I'fleseme Fût L«r r I 11 Isa wsU-
,lFIi vnl to use this fumiluii I erne
Our hostess ucaied 1 11 ri ihnt <>ur
inti view was ended.'

Shr pn-.-e tiled
each of Us It HX-Csufl*; note,

the equivalent of about $ 5 ,'
'L H; in .in, urtior from ibti 1

Kun^
if 1 lh tu help yuu in every wtiyV sht
smiled, " Whatever you need, It is
"
my wish that jraa tell me
Vu(^hnAiter ;uui *trtilled home I
in am exiibernat tiKHid Servant*

In^.ibni Tehind us Qiirrying asftSE
sack? ni siiE'nT nkin fwiuiiii';'
btafîtsii wilh yak hiiltrr itcd Iua-
113 urioiLS TitM'hiiti wi.hi! liLiiiikets,
Hiking Tit if E.h: 'J T l^tcr AuIiLiimitvr Sinuil after our vi-il Furdgh
the
,1 l' '• i h \Mi \i .l \i hk'i'.i.i u\ ].)dU^hLcr Ministry K-nl wofd we were
Mr Aui £«7?i r>tii iti'f m -iLih'i m i i>i:le jIcli-l- r kfaucjiMv rnUJiirnT I hi: [rtê h> rupi m Lhasa JmmeilUuHy
Lhanii hllh iirir h Til* Lm IrEciirl*. V ecmpnhtrd li} Ti we IramcM the uvari werin^ -.mind? n..i
dausijfnc* Tsa.f^rjL
p
Shape H 1:104^4: 13} lie fcm n Mf> m name to
riii miu !L nf thr -^vrni f
i
t fill prim- Rhitn-c T*hj-L» 3utcr bum. **?
? ' city,* f c-^| uti jn : shojj after shop

n>. Ll* b I -i 1 ~ !hi bliut -n priii 1 liî'JS in t.jnd 1
H ii>rje? of ojsen C#lls lib 1
thick
Tbundn L*mKnrt, fey Eprl Herr TiMlii, MivjrtfAJ. CiRUOArnii: .1 ill
Mu.is/lM I
KVi 11 iW r, V 1 pO^St 742
; Wna! Ls nf private homes
r
* Srtf in Use N vrn>sî
M m-.wjm
1
Ininous border nîon of CEiljui ? rtek'hbi t >,lhi!;]uis "Tht WcpriiL" 1 spe-

Lil 1 b> j Chunk- WlbU' Mintk, iQlii
many TrbeUiw
‘
flhci
SViivimi' wl 3ctc live. Siw nilJiEiimE ,
jiml "
T I it- Mul I^s, 1 1 Aise tiicuirv^ Qtt
in t\\t
iMipii n*,iEal uiernittht. Vi*l rfir bore herself \Vii 1 Id " tiy t?-h -j
in-h i hm H rEimm,. iX'Sobt-^
wLtlt the eunfnient |)oise of a imly Ltiirn (pntffc 14], 1 »U
II
UflFLQCJjcfcSnS sn Uutu; Mnrnthon t jinqv!uci+ Mirny (iup^, und IIollst* ni (!kmvcrvili[m

I- »iur pmpty itirrirjL- | max i
iwail airui cn^Lwl jnintitt? ax itiii- !- -v-^nuncrit fwitv
IdEiiixly !.c cr .r ffirinl tit
cnfB-ffgyje! nl adLLlErh jqiitifr tabL'i. Gu*at* ysr thaiuiEfclH, U rualGDv ft«m CliilliL
l
q tfaijtpjfib fthiMi JiirilirkrHiini t™ Hr-littxfh IIb«is
^ CnPflrtUttt* Deities G3^rc with t/nbl inking Hyctf nt A3I VS hn E-Jttter tli-ti PoiiiSii
Atr-nt MPcuuti mid pqljpitm IfcL .luiIiaf v-entsuvil Into (fat palate Hi rccnvtt I li r Diilai l.umu-'i hluilpg u: Svw
V-Wfi IeHiS*1
hr lipund the luEuljwnih dI m
nejatinn* Gt art lit* 4 thrir vivhJ (fcmlijnn uhuL-LirtfEl by du * -ujd elij-om.
4 "In * tiuMI hut diunDEi] hkycigs, enra. and ah modern InventiuitSr I hi1 (.itayft whwl [ Ilhai'c left \ wiki Lb-c isn.lv
I
Mh hvL'l in rLtlK u^." Mr. H.lzii r says. ''tiLjifled with written 54t k PJItilttaR*r the i-tum-! vU»d in erary home and
twp^, Tbfl devout EH'ver fma*d wiLtmnl spinninp he tyhtidiir* Co tend peLftfrof wt their way to heaven.
I
wwrk M ."
at play, Tihetaiu ircqyrntJy naullrrrrl Ehf mnnk pniyef r ipqiU pufm e kuna* lO thuu: Jewel in Lbe lur M3-, jUHrn " i
I * E I
My Life in hVirbuldvn l .
h fi >li LV
1 !'it
i
MT n Til to wftndrr at the svirieiy of With spring orme the dti^t st'.jrms. Kven r
~
iHMids available fat IJutsn bjuma ; brick tea, nne rushed for hrinrr when the cloud rCi lied
Hite, urn! brocade* hum Oiitm; Vuirrican up the valley, Thr Tutnb dssappearcui m the
-mctics anti COMasitslit pete; Aluminum nm! *mr\> of pry ini?, sttffi icatiiig f«jwdrr.
copper Wfirc (page 34 ) N
luxurious furs, Kwin- Tsarong ^Su?[M h
^nr «>f t lie domEnaiit fmurt^
watches ,ynk meal lujl Imitn-, and ij-rna?hrttta in ZOth-ceniury Tfhol* iEiviii d us m thovi?
-*'
tbs- rLi i k niiutjin in •
If I i hat is still scratched into hLs ciwn [i.dorcd hopae. This shrewd nuiu
fit mi the earth with hrimv Sijt 3 btett el favorite of hr preluding t>alai
1
At dusk tstch evening I found everyone lasmiji (iJn; Hlji i, a mcinbcr ot the kasiLig,
pmmrJi ruling around the Barkiior, a main aaid Lureinurndtr in chlel nf Mir TitMtoti Arniv
street that endrclts TibeT* holiest cathedral Thi i’rUVE'rnnufrtjl five him vaist estates. He
11 : r J '-î 1 .
. i [ Kh ing. I passed fli rt> arid pil fell fmm luvor but dung- tn ti i
- wealth und
glims amd-lrd sacred \m erar and hnrlry lietr. rank. \S'e knew him S5 Master gf the Mint,
Lntj^bipr brhex'd with the other] nd'* per- Wc Inti [h im: scitied Eat our r.^w hF.sidru' f-
petual i.hiiriis ui drumbeat^ obiH^ and dt^p- onh ,i Wvk when wr rttcdvrd -hi urgent
thtroted prayers, mess-igif:
"The Austrians mu^f leave Ibr cuimtrv [m
\ T' •Ti'lt Offen Suppcirt mediately Such Is the derision m" ihr
The fascination df nui expirations dally
eoiiid nut erasi; the timrrbifrit^ of our ponT The order was catastrophic tvol only did
l fan, Fira^ wi.1 needed permission tn remain is. eoiwltran us to furilier wandt'diur^. Imt the
in Lhasa, If that wim granted, we would jftrLI which
serai tea hikl developed un uur lung (
face 1 (ic
1
necessity of earnlnu a livinc.. And marches in ^Vbdcnv-zevn wtu bi r had grown i

j
then one day nn the street a servnn! m a worhi*,. At tirties, | could harvfjy mo^'e.
-i _lt li-L-l rjri^f^l fed sl opped us. He stuck mil We t*-. hti| - ‘•r 1
1 ai (uttg , i
p| re; 1
1 fiit postpone
his tnngue ini! hissed* ib.it mnfiE surprising mrnt. Tht? reply dime ftmneilfateiy in the
TibtlStn (tc>i iir'f of respect, and announced (omt uf mi army lieu ten nut anrl Mine il
l hat hts master wan tod to see us (page 45 ]> ilfets. The officer hurl orders to escoxt us
Tfcf 7'ru.nyF ( isnr of the monk secre- lo lnr]Li r hr anootmeed . and wv must he
(nrtcH v!i" supervist* Tibi*! s j>r^sthcKni
i
ijij& rearly to leavn the neil da)*.
Lioued ijs about our edutiii-Lntv Aufsiihnallcr's In desperation, Aufeduuiiter immed thal
e^]n-riinc o as -rti aerial Eturnl engineer seemed the Citi-vejrfiintnt ask the Uritisli Legations
to impress him. medical officer m ewmioe me. ReiUrtantlv
"1 would like rn see you stay he riairi 'We tlur aiithnriiii-s n r
r, *
The h rit^b phy sieijm
1
1
in Titiei cmikt tisc men like you t nhappily,

r
prompNy certified that I cuutd titrt jwsftily
everyone din*- not -lure my upiuimi. ndU I
iraveL Hr gavi 1
run injections, toil 3 fmmd

speak for you. Bui do not be hopeful/* Eiwifie comfort in an eserrise prcscrlbeii by w
Dtaj u te* hr warn ini:. fib prom ist? of sup| w.ir
1 t
kinia: rolliou ;i fitfek bfifieallt my bare feet,
heightened our hap^, \ monk paimn w null I
Roiiîmifeft Fretiaty Savmîi IJiu-sa.

be tnosfi ht'lpful fo our appeal, because ihe nll-
powerful Tibetan priesthood normally resists Idir it. time we heard at) mom about y.'sjml-
foreign tat nt sin ah, *Egn. FortunLiEriy for tyi, the iiftknb had
Veal day. Aufidmaller and made fnrmztl t more Important things otaxpy atiitn-
calb or tbe four ni embers if The &&*£&£* fit i
lion. March had cume. and with R the
grand cabinvT These digmiaries are respon- .
greaW » > TiLietan cpple|>rat.i i rii h the New
slbie only En ihs- I tabu lj*pua and the "Regent. Year k estival.
Km it 3rd S&^ftrs 9 they managr the secular . i f- Tihi-l's N'ew ^'ear .Ttatti^l with a roar. \ti
faira of the country tpage ’SI. Wp 1-old them avalanche of 20,000 rn |-rnbed monk.H slrriiintrd
nl our will in u tt v'*$ to work for the C iovern m ea t
f
intu the hrtly rity. du aiding lu jndpiilatlua-.
wd urged them to support our picul for The cacophony nf prayers, drum.^ and cym
asylum. bals thrill myI ni^ht ind duy r
,
While we waited For the Rivcent -prim.' dragged myarif tu the uitif nf risarofig-s
I
bnalbci lipda Lhasa. The fail- t*f Biiddl

I
I mansion ami watehmJ the city whip m; f into i
r
.i vtnemiib weeping wilow at the G»ts]edntl 5 a leiigi.uii frenzy, \\ ork stopped. OBkuci
gate,, lurru'd gukleu green Ttinder -hnnis wer e rfnsed Vr, ‘“ v " mc!l aiÔettd h
'
'
.
spread an emerald hazir along chtf K.yt River tJjiir ir itewr^t sillL> .ind l.'iniC3tdfi3, I ilmici
+ Nfliblt: T . LiJiii:-. flttiC \nlk rcJ Tiamg
j
+ DiiEai T.p ilia's. Mnthvr and Sisltr Defy
amid ul 1 'ilLsc Jialr Cniiv^liim with WfMcm l Hashes
TwwUyîiBt^yeilP old YaiiRcbcnta Taajnnn tbr kfjJ DtJni Taburini iripliti, oaLis ^ huibhlc faj-tii wifr.,
1
v-tA tu !
i tuidiani! I iiiil i Er i ji3i* ! | that jiiiJiiit *ILli "nc n*. in (ttiUfon * 3 TELiet *
11
U rear Mather' 1
t
JL'i! h- il I In ia t ‘n- ut thuir lour . Nil- :n u bitaiAi* when her iitn became Dalai Liicilil in 1MX Slic and
u| in mnjxjiLaJil imw.*le-ry ftf lhe ttffriftf ihr « ipa&t 13}, tin ibuifbtrr frrdCildg hub Inrcrd with silk, Kyi.
ClMln-tn iTOftua an birch Gtiicil v. univn \t% Tifi*
1
' jtlacM-* v, r rt iJilwu in ih*. - tit* wtn-f ,
15 K 1
irh! _ i
I 111- £nr ;
1
11 ji i r*
A CaJjiDcf Wile Fnmtitt 1 k r Hm \h

i
in n I L i4 In nf HhimmeFirtg J i:\v-fcti
Ikiiq^
*'A fwrirjn' Ln i U-tht-..,, thv fin *
in its Iravd," luserr-; ;p Tibi tun Mu pr inr
In this wdLidccl bind
li ^tjIlJiv woman spend* h-uiin rctniiinf: her tnLEel. Shi* i.ii>*in- nit cftftnfcVifcflt gitL Fmaftp; AtnctitlLfl brands.
1
be mother
m
'1
nl ihe lauahinii luide^room pjjir S R.aeTL'ih.ar Lhiicbano ILiiah-n wtni> Thr Licurili r** ijj i-hEtiiUse
-in>] Gyfttjtl i- i.mndpuE rltk» oi I r :lei g I'ruvlnLe. A liirh.L job*a ul cblEs-c^Verett baraliiM Qftcbfcij Jlil;Ii ulimr her beui!
wfjpprttati ,an fim-nfl pearls Initn J iip.is . IVniaD luiiguabe, Prujc-jan unbar,
n-l and plump n\r,d jtjjma iVnn'
lulj\ Hair liunidt^ Ih twin rupci above her Jpald-tbroCade d-reni.
TMtilv the- iHifnll -h charm box— indispensable- piTTh-Ldcm agjiiiHfl di-viJ., HI lira! Ik, nr sudden
WffliB cnlorful
dunlb. T^Jbrtluria inside tile Jrwcfod fccluti mu\ IkliiJc iniSufcs oi dcitts ur the wrttinp ci E'hiLd LiLmu 'A it
M
wîfimn tas fid vnlpe Jti TdulV puilcHr affair*,’ Mr H im-r sayt, bttl (crwttfc denote ber .husband'* rant ro the Gvv-
1
tmiiMU ktctfrdhy. A ttJjfnct iiiittiiEer'i wiic nriiy dhplj* uema worth S^fr.ODG."'
1 . L 1
rnml^fprs' ond InifJc^Tinjn. ni il ili:^ anil

{jcskuiIs. all pni\ prl :u5iJ danced find
san#. L'rwds shiirFlrd clockwise
hnty u , 1 1 k-s girrimu Liie t'ldaki,
ilu* cathedral. and city 2\
and 22}.
\n aradr-nt miiTTL-d the advent of
'Fire Dog \ear, \ colossal c3acr-
p&fa fell in (hr Piirkhnr, kiltimr

three mnnfc^ ami Injuring ieveral
ttthtff. TibCLltk^ | J|.L Ll.
1
' I wJ Lt'Il iht't
Spoke of Itae rtil omen To them il
augurcrl disires* eaj Thq4iakts i

,
[i^r-
Imps 1 dttiiatilln# win

1
I Jarin^ t.hi- ,3
1
-r|=iy ‘
(in -at Prayer
Elm civil m 'ViTTimrnt retired. >hm
m 1 mi prcrtztur^ fr> mu iis-e_:IvI jnrin_
moimsteric* ruled Lhasa wlt h sin
iron hanrh The Poh-Pobs, Lirawny

monk ptrfki'ineii who liLukco their
fncr-s and pad ihiulden id tbeir
make 1 licrtti selves mure lemfyisig,
^vita^cred about ihe riiy.
Inli'icBtc Sculpture* in Butter
The erlehratinn readied itldinw

.it Lilt- Sutler [’estrnil on the New
Yrar*s 1 5 ill day, Tstrune warned
ite not to venture into (Hr unruly,
huîlEit^ crowds. He stationed uls
with Mn. T si mnpt in one ni his
houses on the Bsirkter.
Alter HJinJuwd. ttionk.^ lowed
lowermiT ttadptiires of yak butt it.,
pfîtomled with dark and vibrant
dyes, into the B-irbhor. Tbrohfp
e^rthe.tat hi admire the *rmnlflg
orica lures of gtsd§k Ehe ekdHirai*
fliiwor 1
1.-. s t-fi ii:-. L 1 : 1
1 Intricate filigree
work, tised to py ram nUtl wooden
*
slime h 10 feel high
Tsimtig
Mrs. csqiiaEnnl that
ill milks of work j.* into the di—
plavs E.ub mtîumtcrv iu,iinLLin.s
ii wnrkfthoji where own iLri^t^
^h:i|UB E Ii r Ci Id 1 -harden ft I I ui lie 1 .
Hu- Giivernmifot awurd- a prt#r to
ihv henl entry.

The gallery of art stood imdy
As we wiilthed husiiirpils of but-
14
ter lamps and pus L-intems Hkkrtd
j-cjur tundi fd Kft
] C H tifh oil the I
t
*ifJnliLt
darktti-r*, canjurLn^ a ?ent-
En Elle
14 IldWhicvit Siûln I town a United Lhm
liTiinm nf life fnlo the tfffitfi&u Surl-
I is ii d.j«. if dink, Tiinf - limeli Ini'. Kiini tuicuril ijii Put 4 1 i
tWk!, Ihi-rmq^ hli'Hjrnluin ul 1 1 l- cHdinck ihr pa-hicf fc 1 1

-
ilfnlt viu heard trumpet LiLltIls and
limits btirinir) included lh L -
w^tbl hiiciili-l u\ Slisi imi iln- 1-111] jI the cteep rumblr: nf drinites.
IkhUtie to am n Is e- Veiled Unua jJt fnnridinS tn iVSr tLam-i that * î-Pi a-n ihc N.^TiiiN'.VL ilTunmxFinn
hi gftpfi
h
Wttcfrftd him W^tkLnu ihoul lib while ilofte houw Ln H
Lilp Ahi-niij (Fit nl
( hr WftlMSetf £*fdrfi ? tlJ.r.iT Jvqilb >enr fr-nfe rplaah Chod^" by Jn^jph 1~ H-wfc, Xdv-umfn:?
whitewash »
in thi- Ptid&Iik wmz ami rkÊL it- «imnivWn4 h
1 ;
My r
Life in Forbidden 1 Juisa 17
The 3>,ilui Lama stepped from the cathedral- The fesSiVc ni -qrrifleci. acid Lha&ins Mi-
II- looked straight abend, Ills titmoiid-shiiped lled into routine* Pilgrims marched hack
face lji : nrialik i-ent-ath a peaked yetkiw-dlk toward .(hgirina imrtbc*n plains,
osp. For Thr first time 1 looked ufiua the l "ue*per iedly AaLsdmaiter jornid ElU' milks
i:nil-kiriii r the 1 4lii itoni&tion uf THhT- of the eiTjjiloyriL The ( hm rtimrni cninmi*'-
I-
ln..]i i i i . 1 1 r i .^s _ llw 1 Lyrar-oitl bdjf stoned him E" construct an IrrigatloD dtpnth
nu/eddown upon tkaiiMndi of bowl'd hftifK T helped ii'«-;L-:irr thtf course^ but tonic! KOI
To ihnm be was a living j»od- work treatise of my plaguing seiiitltau
The sp’ave til r Kinu pitted ^tnwly nlnuu

3 1
I-'iiuniiiin FMCl'pHlts TflwbMtP

i Ur .HMr.iy u( grotesque images. \bboi-. sup-
ported him, ififeir himb tictietuh bis .ittil? Idle days ill Tsarwigs ^smiy garden gave
The hijL'Sest officials of She SellI e followed. mr îtk
:
'kc\ r f itaigtitd and supervised the
It was an The Dalai
electrify lug tableau. hmfrimg of a fount in., râroug was rle- l
Lama withdrew into ihe mthedral, At ante LighinS. No one hart tcer erected ;i foijjiiaiji
a ui.nl hi -’ ^ttii-d Su m ue- t_h^ 1 j s
in Uni3a r
bind bn guests mrvef tired of vr.it th*
thrim^s.. AJE nighl hmji heard criei. weep- w \nv the spsrkltatg jet
ing. .mhlI mghirr, pu mjtua led ity the hoiirie
l found iinosher way lo occupy my lime.
T
shunts of Dob- Dobs. Several pub! amen engaged mr tu give Itrftsnng

\i vt n'n jieil^ tlie
j
utter images were gDH-e
ii 1 1 in nuithittiiilk*- And KtiglL^h lo their mm*
[mm [he Biirkhot\ melted down frir u*,r jn maintained imly one Im the
Limps ur magii: potions, Thi-ir^ was a sstiiiH 1 Lli.
>
a Uuvu.i nmeiit Institution when. the
>fci L I .
1
tifjdai «>[ >ft|i ir, as eI u remind mankind

r
c]i!'i i buys were tannin mounluiL! and rammers,
that fjauii) is temporal ( Jne day the Hlidn Chamberlain calk'd me
Ho inis Lind Knees in the a l^jlrins Worm* I Ls Way to n Happier Life

T
rjrmn wOîep fttitd Wirli imn. ihl* Lozonkl eii nQ irn,r i1 iy rr mdJnv tin li nui-i ill Hil
MBcml trail IJiiw.. lurhiini Ûltiuwf itml d.wp.ys lurine the I'iislilu, tlw uiuhL atunSLi hi- |jiocre*i
wilK ant a* ill prafftJLllaiii A kiklltnr ipr-on probcrU Filt kntt* Hi: nmi^ a huii panM tiartn> llrrin
far ln nrh si rmr iJ^yuLLes -

w nithl .
htrenc ill mHi ri riLitiî h n t5ir tivr.iKLtsE traiL i JtmmMv ul several wev ks
by criTpjnsL \V ea I thi.- TlbeluaLi icwy Uk\ pKuTratwt-. -»iJt ratris tiiy# rana ud u ant -p CTenr.
. 1 ? 1 -
ES The Natfonaj ( ivtagruphiV Mugu/mi;
In fh»i Fril.itn. He invited me rn kmdâpe Then came 1 he Living Buddha's vrJInw

the prrJens of the Tstdtitftfii a special tms- jialanqtifn. ft wa> borne at a ^wift, soiouib
luisiie npdler tbfll staffs the \ tnhd Luna s en- pace by ^ \ nlurfutly cubed servants in scarlet-
tourage If 1
pr^lm nj picturesque srsniserl hjsf - £pm-e 24
hr hinted. mi ah I be Hiked lu rem-range the
1 i'ATow of tmpnriance aeutunjlanit'd the
Dalai Laicm's private garden, venerated Kiue Tl^ ,\ocbu I.ioerka, The entire
I was ji'~t bt^mmna r
hr virk wL ri ri hir- fiovernment folbvd ihe palanquin iri order
eiiin \E jjilslry official ?aeftl my b^ws luttihtmg, if rimk, fidin® hursts with middles nf gold
hi? SiM. Hi 111 oIkvmuis dMrsj r
11 wa*. m un forfeit a blr ‘prctnulr. till pro-
'lie English dorter has certified HkiL you are fo ^ inn of iruliJ and <ilks nod jewels dretai lu-E
weU rsigiitrh to u.iveL The QbV^Wlt Say5 in vivid sunshine undrr u doucSEess sky.
yi hi must lenvT :H iiTii r/
Auistdinailer and I pEr.ir.led turn taro to UwianS Love bv I i
i
iit s
ihi* Foreign Ministry, UV ml Irumed the It

5urnmtT lay ripely upon Lhasa. IVach
.M i
of Oriental d i] jm lt i:y — pit «®il to acffid- t
bltastittisi Lika/r park^ ^viLh pink Blur
I
i
i lhr.
e.-u\ lull L-t: [,'wr\ - 1 nl L 1 1 s^r tactii ami yillow puppies bJocutirt! on tbv vatley'a
WIluI would frupiivn, we asked if my sul- hillsides.
tica returned? What if crolli^d nn the E
This witt thir picnic season, Lhasa 's favorite
my dr Above jiIL wto would finish the Im- ifmc of the "Vwar. Fin ire i families singled
P3liim channel and the Tsedriin. r* i 1 i l i f ii l:
fmm town t'ach day to enjoy li sry [astime?*
The Wrus taken under ndnsemenl. do the river UjnkiL I
lEcktiui dke ttames p_nd-
I du nut know what hjijipt.-nrH am no mtr I ,
men. .\1 dusk., votivn
Icf-dy rumreffd the tu-
rv^f said another word aboul eJtpellti^g llh cense smoldered nn lit* darkmiiig shore. t
from Lhasa. My swiiominj? înd fa^bkaMd Eki dirinu k
Slimmer arrived, as usuuf. on the eighth day picuttkers Fvw T.hfitqrty know how Pci swliti.
of the third libetJm month. burtuoatcly the h«amv the Kyi Kivi-r h uuplr^ntly uold
ii iy was hot™ The Governments l:i> officials and trencher auM_ sus.pected ihat wjis in- [ E
trooped tii thu Potalu, peeled eff their fur viced ob rnrmy ^xrurapns us a fjjirl of vaude^
Imi il robes anil fur bris, &hcl baudrtl them
!
villc act. Hut my ability proved a blessmc

to sm'anU- Then [hey put on light summer l nmnngNl to Eltrur pttmm from dfEWii-
silks awl sum out hut- drank ceremonial tea, mu imi'iut: slitim the I i vrar old sun ut For-
and returned home. If sleet had hum Pilling, «gn Mtni 2iti!-r Surithan The -episode led ti>
they wnirUI hniT jirrhitmed Lhr aune ritual. an intimate friendship with the family.
In Tibet, jiei50Jis change {ucuartifflg lu the in- be Tibetans had by n'-w uncprud \uf-
J
ninMurtt lunar L-idr ridar. \tid m dues rigidly sdiftiiter :ind me as citizens of Lhasa. We
prescribed dress. \¥wrt iOBrfultcd mi u-vtry mnueivui >k- tj'pe ut"
proLifum,
T nimjcris Annfiuticc \ijfschtUiLter rumptftn'il she water charmtH
A itw clays k lee beard f salver crumpets greatly UicitaflfhK the irrigntiun potent till in
on the Potala roof. Prom iimn Arteries in the thv plain bordering Uiasa. Tin- jMvaUDtnt'pt I
valley irauie iwhVitng blasl*. The chunm pta- tin n fthknl Mm i

repair tin- creaking old rli-v
clahncd the Dalai Limui > annual migration rrii pLttrt which powrnl 1 Lu- mint, nt&t
from hr Pol ala io his SttteTm-r palace at the
l
Lli;ma i 'ciqJIî wjio bcoughl the bos^d ]xitu
rforbti Lfngka (Jewel Part), i rnm India year* earlier did not appren-
ICE
Townspeople hurried fitilti rvrry comer of ai e thu dt Eio u nn tun; uf Ihcfr t utM. I was I c
Lhasi. Wlfceti I reached the Western (due,

i]H c tutors srfuod sh deep \ti the privitfe lane
i >
Lunr H
between Iht Pot a la iind the jewel Park. I'nliti, Timering Like u Sk j ^Lraper, +
Plume# of dust and intetut heralded 1 he Wujfi 4 Sllketi Banner Ut r the New \ L-ar
cavalcade An army of monk servants strutted In tii-ti n3J.nnr.T ui yrjxjUdqtu! unmuiU'd fttdli* pntsb
b\ carrying r in Dalai Lima "s dlk-houiii) year ilaqi-i ]Ji hfi?H' moliim -ii On: rtimM am llhrtau Nuw
and livurite There hdluwed Tnounlcd
birds* Ytlif pnivrf^. Oolii !lEHj mU IT thl i';nJ« i ittfy&l lhr
U1 l-ii
m iL-k tan ^ ia u -tw Ir Luj? drum n ttrs. e wletl
,
I l r i I j
uppliqLI^S
y) hi.i^'y l.liij|
ini Uvlililh-I
UliKik* iitr.
tin
JLll'iLliJ
3 lir
1m htibl ll
*
ill
members o i the ruler * monsstic JiinuaihiiJd, !d(t fhr th toîdc. tJnSj
-
during h rites
1 ii n « iji 2 1 L.-t-
hts in int jody piaids .un;E the rimtuamlvr in

I
— twti lh>ur= funb >Ciir — tt the biiiiFii:: dhpluvtd.
chief of the army. SjHStftiiiciis Line the auLaoor lUiinv^y U> tl3t
r
t'-iliice.
L
* j
\
Vj
, i
*
f
U V
-
( j
, ?1 m
„ 1 V
So \i ", I
1 r
I
' ITT
i
wj V
i ,,
Q
a * 1 « H vrvtv-
1
— 1 IT
11
fc >
Mj
i"
E
S
1 f i . j
fl
i
r
50 lhc Niitmiul Geographic
iilrtjiVi wispee ti'd tJisii - >:i ir c r.His were rolled gllclcfl by. trembling, with beads bo well low
down thr Himalay^m slopes. True or not. Lari tojigties stretched forth.
the phi nr had never worked very mlL When facially t before the throne. 1
An fânitialion of the phnt convinced ctmM nr if resist a furtive upward gjancc. Out
-Nuftrh nailer ihni it tfriuld not he riur-L-ti m vl^ met, imd i qufck Mitflt anJiiiictcd the
health. He
proposed to harness hr EUTriUmg t 1 J imii ' “ hnrniEng, finely chi:- "lo-. [ fact
Kyi's water power. There wa^ nmve eon- T bowed tu receive his bltsslng. ail eaêr
erm nbcmi the p4£&ible rtsicrion of rhr fiver [iSayfid push dial seemed to say.
‘ <
Hdh timvt
gods* lull Vufschnaiter heguJled the Govern^ So you're the Westerner,"
rn *n I
i
jnlri letting Iliro urirliTUlkn till
1
project Art 4hboL Meered AnfsclmaStuT :md me irtlo
became, Lti dItH:i thtf information officer
1
r
an rihacitre Comer when- wc uwihJ watdi the
'[ the Government. A Foreign Ministry ofil- ritual. Many pilgrim*; h.ul inEvi'fn! hmsdredi.
(fill sent me a radio receiving set. fvach day of imilos* Eromc pniistristing themselves foot
I rnonii nr| EnMishdanguag* tamatfeasti from by loot Each h rooj^ht a isift* if only a
world cap tab ami transcribed any pnlttkal
i ifcibhy zatifc Ait nun ant rei:ordi-i tbt*
.ici E l
news that I thought wtild interret Tibetan niEir^

1
ûbrrtaniJal gifts of mnm-y. fbîned n>

uOldats. join tile lJLu .LViifr“ ihnt had been accumulating
At Christmas time T my first parly for cmturiK.
ti> ritpay i he eStravnjfpTit hnspEtulitv nf ray
Friends J shuD always cherish ihr memory Commoners Rfciised uddi T-ii^Sol
uf thrir lifoEhcThood. Christmas. of ojurse, Thr I lalnf I.ama plates Ms hamt only on
b mtanin^ltss in the holiest rity uE l.imisisoi- mo nk* ,
CrmTnmifciil i >Fl‘i i . 1 1 - ui \ r I i i.'cnin I
vis-
but m\ Tibet nit comrades stood stoutly before itors. He blisses other pecans will! :i wave
an irtnfin wd ied e hi LStraft^ fur :imi tried to <
‘ f a ^ken EasseL Ednt? vvimvith our-:.dr hi*
K
slug Sffam Xi^hi/
1
family meriig the personal touch

Now it wan Q47 Fire Pise Wh-; !
— ‘
1
W- I I; iinrkfh. *
mi y -r n:i ^ it irnil- r - .i T
1
1
1
She hi ;he
;l mi it’* name and mine appeared oil the

i l
ifnn. and thu* tl» Imlle^f ivornan in TTtret,
ttaM Luna'< New Yctetr rverpriuii list, We Wbi-n lh^ CjereiqiBfiv i^mM, a \rnnk hiihrjiid
bad heard that ehe young Kod-kina took a keen 1
iCh a new SOO-^yni tittle a nd murmured,
interest in our activities, n ml after! wnti hrd “A fc from the Treasured King/' I suit
u- through hlnraniliirSp dirrish the bill
We shopped for thr cijgtlfe&t -illk &vurvr> Pilgi ifT] - Eirr perniiiieil to ti-4ar certain p.iri -
in Llrniia, On reception day we uhmtK-d the of the PoEaTa* Inijuiîve frnm the ivuLslde,
broad stone s ta rway in tlv-e In * mil i n en-
i 3
1
! • i
si it Is a filter rlisafjrxiinEimejil within, Aai‘-
iranfr in pnrctssiop nf swarthy nomads* fil'1 and the suffuruthiiz -.Ivii' h
gli'Minb dust,
on in ,_*. and richly clad atffcitnt:fJii&,
L
nf rouckl butter pi*rmi?ste every corner nf ii ft
ina% of anil cells. The spittings of

All Tibetfarw Eligible for Rifling
i juntless butter lamp^ mike footing rlifficuti
Thrmiiih the maill portico, embelLLsiird wills 1 ei contrast in (he squMor, the rc-nutiri-i ill
frescoes of Grincitiip protective Lmds, ibejiroup seven f>al.ii Lamas repose in Huldeji stupas
entered mtn dark, wimtiim passa;ijjes, Finally cncru=ted wiih duity rubies, diamonds^
we readied a small Ciuirtyard, ^teep ladders tUFqixiif-c*, L'nral + and sapphires, A monk
ltd to .i roof several higher. K dp&wd keep* vigil fitlure euch nLatisokrtiui + Intuuing
hiid alirndy urn hem for any Tibetan diteen I
,
prayers and thumping drum.
1 rKLive the bicssmcr of His Holinr&s .it
4i p fCtiHlrnyi'iJ cn 29 J
New Year^
Step Si> Step we prised to the ajinmer of Pq^tjc 2%
pvmhotise biiildlngs with goldtff uniFs. 1 A 4 jonlcmphtivt, Buddhist flijd +
stretched to fiffoqfttt ihe object of ail Tibet^s H.v i li I [h-J> PflMLi r*% (u ûy ii Prjij er
veneration and saw h:nu stretch in
, 1i.*uk at Hi! W hi 1 1 vu i T ii -i ! _ i l i il hd i
j j hj a tfurEat «. u] u tri* \i\a m r
The young King sar cr^-h^t'd on {i ihrnne n mn d nr ratunLiiD tbt-y runt anti pajiai iniiiacp*
Ba^ tie Un^khor, h-u2y w j.lk uttrr: nc cd^ Uib

dfijprd in ranr brocade. nf mohry. mlh t jl 1 1 i
LJi.Uiii, -
of jô 5Sy >ifk. anti hundmU uf Ci rerrtnnLal

Ifccncilnne dift. H.lflrijfi& flix'-kjnf btrR 1
Jrom nil pam
£i t Tibet pflcc the Ave-mik Li.iil. ^r\n (irsycr wbfd^.
watv&z mutinied «l \\< base. With avc- n-nd ittIi-c tnarb 1rrqiiL*Ji1pr!ir ihc path
prnix ctffli foe he tilled bêk and forth, bt*-
i Louril ta|_i Llx* tuJrjra oi the 'K’ifnLhcf rfhiJcil H ijliiluji--,
owing Ms hlej^mg lj the pilgrim^. They i >0 _Ll_IIAl 4Jn|'jj If IL-m'LiCr k-’El'.lir'ffir 111 Lbrl.'.r.i I. 1 _ : r i
l
FjIc toiii' rai red, u EluIî til Lamnl-ni, .'tain ih l cndnl l.Srjik- nine! flan L it, Cloistered
a kite in a lonely
pciiLbfiusr upnrLiiieiii. the liaM fhfdkd
Littui tr< Rim * wtifki he rcmhl npL dmrr.
+ Wtfiil-^liijilK-4] pdiyut ftnpt waft mtîCLt in
iill e; > 3 1- us die Sh.ri.Tir c\i ,n Thm-nund Bud1Jh.1t tHafdrrin^ ihr
LLneLbu; i.]îlbc JlJ, J'lStuims LesUch their iufcheadi tti i t= ui k hfqu.iih ?hr jadEied ittUtjgci
a * ft
9
f
l
,•¥
it
f *
p
0 ,* OflCtflTiMf** ( Y ?*
^
f
'f'j
p
i^r -vtfvrr'. *
iTlEifr 1% 1
ilf
Irtwwt «*» *.- ’

'
;;
**.£ ^3
1
Ji.i iiji ir iiiiMFi In Tljiutlrli FTlittt
4 l ibel
1
* Ftordîl Minister >

tenter) Wcbnncft Mi:ll TlMmifls uni His Sun
Mr. Thom,™, Ani^rk-tiji wiilrff -ind ml Jr., ^K«d LfcjLsa as tnnM* cf the
Jfi rifalt^v iLrutli thuii L'i |
tin- tlfcr return iisutjict. Five il_i>-. I rum iJutq, i friuhlfn^ hnr*£ knocked
3-1 r Thifnii «lf ,i nHmrW£ffkH| H" Ml RlflJwJneti 111? Ini- law'll. Jr, i'iri-Mrri/;nl rettn knmi of fis tirty hi-
i n 1
1 1 1 1 ! I Lid till dtIUtf |«:dt ..m3 ICDTH-C*. Alllff 19 (% uJ LtiriuruUn Is jVi.I 11 i l‘. i .j. th el I i.in.'ln^. iu..s: India
_ ^ ’Hi 1 1 j=
'
% h Bj
•w ffKjj
2^1 i
jVj 1
iA
r 1 1 1 1 [ i
IJirvi iyi Lhimun* Tbriil

u P I
^ fitfmfise
l 11
of l]|t 1 Jvinn UuJtHiii

In MjmmpF thr iljJiu Luma
fruits hi. wiiicvr qniirttiii ai the
PrUilTn ftjut j u-u l ra v^ -
Id the
XoHmj Line** (]iwd Park i
lift* tatfe-* uwn .
Eli rv, iii thi- ruler' rc tunc in

.lUiuiJu.. Lciunspeopk throne the
[n Tin i lined line to watch felie
royal uuvjJcutlr, SudrlcJih &*-
tarn mude swells Soli h it- prv
jrcnt jrmj. În^nrj ri n |i I
ihrmizh trowdl '~Thv K*-

ihtf
tLi’mceJ Kr:ii£ Tb* Ehtiitncd 1

r
JHi
EiflpT
Servant Lta whii scii-ItI
march in-ro \htw p Ijtfanfiff. th«-
jl ll II I .1 “ I ,1 I I I rll.iri Tl.i
reernl riitfw i:i 4 -im_Q.tLi.-i I'iEJiif
DtlJ Mi? thl i>li - Liu I i.pi I NdHL

oVpOi-1 ivu.il jl sinri procLhHnn
iiuiti- lL i I u - 1 . paifianfc.
4 -
'
hE'ck UMinU iniifiL - I -
1 l
--
4
*
force circinliL-il lilfid,* Inmi \[hn

tiumM'M a* tin If ae W4> fat i‘ iij
thrlr liny.
Piufi 1
2* t ! ittow : TkiflF
MPln . In QfMkM < imb% Flliv
Lhawi p t u rli 14^.

-
ihn Xrw n :
lltiiuHir tativaL
C* KkUiiiiiiE OiHDiHEî ii'
K.iJb IlFI * MJR I P I i 3 — 1 1 Z~1 :

-
1 fiinr!E
14
1 ^
-
- *! .. Jm a j|®
*
^|9|
I,
T
S? §[
V 1
t j 1
i 1
t Don
in Greet
. ** GrfjViirtirn^ni Gut-i‘
In Lbaia i hr iLUliinr could i e 1
|Jir itatLiE of by nffirtiib 1 \\
ilidt diL^ lb id: Iti rank tfci'r
I j r i % bnail hrntrsi ilr b it
wrilli mi WiltfsL IJj.lIjcW’
tif Bit S tflnh. wrar rerl eftwt*!

an offii '.'P yt ibi unu: h1
ti l
r
ihii
bStr^4iiuH| rt
i
d clnak. (Mr Hu:
(it'a ajiifjy^tilEnrlit lo fifth tbs
ratal 3i*4 Mm lt> a hmUk
nsrtit i
i ini dab a* t&virf
ul I hla
rank Wlfflu bnwJ-iJl4» p«l caps

viKvi Jvuhlr tntikHnU-
Hi'CLfiiion hoqt* lifti up by
pank, Chalk alrfl^r pnsventii evil
jpliiL«i linen i
r«i--»in4 ihr road.
K.r U- llllUBl f fcl 11- !»- ll II I I XirlMh
R3S
a%%'M
-r
+- T n0 Tibi^ l i n KB rial s Mo jrvrf I
at vi Soui^nii from YtitentCU

A MliildU r- scifLS.LTV JH'jrr* ihr^yyli ii
VfajUiLr, |Eii TitU]tJ> flf a TibcMri 1 r .hill r.tfdE>
iitUdun In ih? 1'bJMld ffLitlt* m

JS+ft, Fmi^crici^ hubfe at tight tractt lm
ilrurPl 1 1
1
i larmef 3-utnui J brrjtja^
Tlbt L'i h rrh t h it m b f

i rl n!n r r%t r^j=i a
Vl|i. thirl iitul lulviscT Ifl !-hr
Mil D^bi L*ma |MVC Air. Hanrr li'i iin*

nfikiaL J«t> in h l ljfa^jhi it KifetuJa
[ uci'n fltjr d^r n,tpbal dufr with th*
jiniR - < iitmuMjailer ! dsilrE aL a L^Pl'eni-

ntyni t'nriJN
r^hcnn H:41 gi iSit: E^njUrtip* *

>
| ijn iP ffL iqp»f- i A’lu> vra? bum a lutti-
mimrr hu» free imp TLVni^ itfuM bbht man

U Latr tuccdti jtnfy, ITf
HttiniMfti Mr r^rtonc ihrrmtfh ^Jcil3iuL Sml-

Lht!, je*e U> iKb^tktl tWWri?. itcLd was i«H-
ticililrd by 1 1n s tFOVcrnirtrftE
T .ikf arisLucnU*. bf weitn- cion-
g in'll =Jlj itrtvu t« th.it hi* hatui-
arc Mul Mi* livelJHnud

C 1
-» mi iiiinii iwnrii II hiwi
i
i Labi lie C MfMitcrire V!i>Jfrt dip u riwn^J St-eeil* tD Ride rkrauî the Street - jpJ LhaMi
5nnn jilec hb arrival In the LjjillfiL ihc. jutfrar pekJ hU fir -1 ianjricfiy util on Tibet cr^neE Qih-tm l—
ij mi:tik
:irn| i bn* hymen Surthiian Shape Catered nujdiitinE § yjmngE^t at l hr ministers, ernrket
t llarrer ami Mi Mr
\u(V Kmittof like eud fiionds n?>d Sprfwd n b vis Is dinner tor them. The venerable irjunk-mLni.Uur K_LmiJ,i ibdoft
fight 1 ‘flUTSiJcd out their ySrwi on IntemaLieria! aifnijj--
A hr n Id dan
the liri 1
^
trhifin any o( the Idiamnw npincrn in publii.. Sbt senranti :sceri r:irfi man. AB
iilhe? rii3c-i> mu-Mi Jttm muttf and aaJulL-. pedcstfnnai line l hen bi:iui; and £lkfc ût tongues ita a marl: nl rfjpe^t
^ 1 I —
My Life In F orbiddcn Lhasa 2^
Once J flAketf & stmjemagnn why Tihebms ciuiment wc carrse to a monastery w hi use
sm l-nnirifr rm^-d hbiltfEogB of lhe miam tilde iinlcEion inwors riSL-mldcij fhusc fL?eu by the
ttl t.hv Ptilaln* Be tls^livd Itiir rtfMSHy lliril Regent Beside ii ^ti > ^ humble hrui -u. We *• I
pods cmiicii the PubjIsi {ivmughl hnw li ?r< were cony fin cd [Jut we storwi at the ^nut.
Sflo- "T«
mir mlLttl ive rhanîfd doth
a.-ai aval ,
"Who d $f: i
noJtf Have erected P, dwdUis^ fur fng with our êrmnls anil tLnlerrd ilir htuiae
a gnd?" he asked. J
‘Whn d« won Id havr A little l.'oy alsout two yifea old + sprang up T
han[ the ^lT4i ray h l: linn I rnvim- En pi It up Fn^Rhty fttut rian tn meet ti* ITe (lurched the .sculedl
stone Hlodes on n mountain Jiumlrrrii of feet garb of n dbgtiKed pnest ami cried L
ruil* Sf,rw
!: ijih H \i.'. t ht god who dwclli. there wail the f St w tanmA U'r cmikJ hsmliy believe
architect. And spirits crated thu Summit.' i.iur cy4Ms T for the priest did, in facL oime
I rum he Sera Mofiiisiirrv
l
Potato WOm IVilcm in E 4V4 ]

“Old and w objecti were bdtl before J
1
1
tlie
The Potala, in fat:l H gtew alone by static hay. \\ illinnt hesttaifcHi chuw rlie (irent
with the sweat of rniiry 3' hi' Lars hn*w-. The i ThirtsirauJi ^ bvoirfte ilrsim a rad
walLtrg cape.
fifih Dalai Lama startrej \U con^mvliun. in On In lu'Fri's body wr found inarki thist
i .
1641 nm the $ite of an old Tibfctun citadel, the mt'aniiitloD af should bear- Owed
Kvrry subjVirt was obliged tn bring smsu- prijminein eurfi, and moles nit tie uppef part
h\txk from a riLumi quarry, of thin trunk.
When the fifth ircaTTiatiun died hi oS0
1
e
-!
Fiiudly. m thr summrT of \4S9 U to re-
tile astute Regent suspected that Lribomr luisn-fi iv oli the Esteemed King ajul hlv
might continue their kick breaking journeys i.ui ‘ily. All rlii
1
iii'Mhli- i r. 1
1 1 i i| I
ii .
.( H the
for n divinity, but nut tor hint. He an- emhndiTTicni had tri Limed to the 5iummtt,
ttrninreri nhal thr Dalai Luma Was m seckf- 'During; ih»‘ rest New \ ?a r Pestivid t he
dim anrl kepi Ehe niWN death n sec tut uiUtl K:4 ermed King wu- enthfigied .uirl given, hfe
ihc Poiala was cum pis? ted nine years In Lee, fu'w tSttes lie Holy One, the tlu-
All "f the Dii Ini Lumns ur- regarded ah a Mighty of Speech, Enlightened Under- tlie
single spirit occupying a j+uccfSiuhn of bodies*
-
standing. A -si dole Wisdticn. iod the Wade

i
H*m is ;i nrw fncamttlfcm riiscovenedf Ocean/1

Kilnssujrl.M! XJ7iisa T then oiEnifH-tlilef eii
chief hi ihe Tibetan army, Few was unit of the * Sraelc Da lues to Hnlr Rum
witness-us to the recognition of tht 14th Dalai 1 lie r-hi>n mnn^H^n reason was. heavier tkin
Luma (page 26). evening Hi? iu|d me Om tanmJ fluritig nur ^cond s-nnutu.-r in Lhibfct,
thr stqry: The i|ri\-i n u rains tdmed =tn»cs intu
When the 1 ^sh Datni talma became a quaimhre, a raging torrent. t He Kyi llaEo
ipavrly ill in tWI, he gave vague hints llEh-ijI
Soldier.* routed etii: inun r:>ed one night.
the place of hh. rebirth. After death his Sir the greol Kys threatens the -.ummer
body sal In siutu fedtrg s*m\h One morning 1
palace of thr Tregsurai Kuig Voia ifliaji r
the monks saw that his face- had tn tried Re- i otni. .it nnte arid bold the dikr-.*’
1
ward Ehe risiriH sue. 'Die Stair Oracle jwy \ horse wa.t witii injz. We splashed thninuh
called. When
had posaestd his the gects muddy lanes tu a he Our HmEcrns peu-
levee?.
body, the oracle Hung j kMta inward Jtr r.isL t
t
,B
ral rtf «Tily ll Few f.-rE in hr murk, and therel
WHS little \\v iMill] diF bus hope lc- dikes i

Vision of Home in Lake
would stand umli day,
4J
The Regent journeyed ru a holy lake whn<r I searched the for juit sacks. These
waters reflect the future. In (he mirmrlike were ilIIl-sI with ?iind and tiu'J 1‘hen I set
warfare hr rti visioned another hike. Beside In work vrfi h SOD curilfe.* mr] snlrlEers-,
the visionary body uF water stood a Al the ^nar linn tlif weather .iraclr has- 1
home and a monastery with roofs of goli teriii! i txm i Gndot| Mdnafitery Eu perforin
The Recent ha dent'd buck to Umia e!abi>Rtiedances on the rivtrbrttik. Wit both
Thr fieri ieurch parties rnr\ nnt in v.nrf^d feverishly towurd the same t-hd, I'he
c.-Lrrvtjiu! ohjcL.ts that Oie liana Thhuûih liktT hi LI. The rain.-' stopped. The tlmd
had iisml every duy. They searched ftthnUl I'l-cd. Both the ocio lr .uni received gn i- 3
after mouth trt lU-S iCsi from the Dalai Laaoa.

t
i'-s-
"My group journeyed to ibr Chinese I’ruv- Tlavinc no knowdedge fit' rtldneerin^ prjn-
flHZC Iditghtti You can imagine uur c_\- cjj s the Xlbetapi had built verticil! dikes
i I
L-
.
J
3Q Tl a e Nati cm il I G eogta pis it M ,n ga S nc
that pave bf tore pv&smt#»

1
t wm a>fei>d tu living; Fherc was a shriek of alarm
creature.
tmxl it Ftronji m^v barrier tu witlislunil tfie every time a worker spied a worm or Imj* in
summer Bond?. With AufechnairiT * help. 3 mh wly turned earth, Wort stup^'KÎ while the
Lwîvn -syrvryrriT in rhe spring c»f 194$ ami r an> hring hi ime to safety,
^hovtlt^d the lost -ifKiilf ! earth before the 1’hr TShrCiinN' rdlgwji teache* (hem then mi
iumnif.T raum-jufci P E hi: ^lustly sloping i.fjfct% life may be destroyed If i\vMh roll lie .i v ettud.
J,SOp fiect bi\tK diverted the river fnjju its I'hi must devout went -u far ;i<= to toll net fr^h
course rtJon^5Kh L
the summer palace w mi frpm poods lie fore winter s deep freeze and
quiphohiLTfl Imvlaiul ûmmtr's drought, The fish wmr curried in
pails Em refuge in the Kyi
EJikl- I
t i"h tl t Bark Flood
Life Him ftilt and busy. Aufa£fa(^h£r imd
W hen the fi i>J |1> "dAvotttt spilled duwti F mopped Lhasa, making the first accurate
tin 1
Kyi iJkr dike held lifer stone. We survey vvilh n theodolite and mea r-t] riiuj mpe
jut .i Ljnaye uf willows nil kwd formerly in- Friendly r ruv.il- n-iibciril n-hen
71.
Lsaii Lifi-i J each ymr* We upjMiared with Lhr equipaieuL Poor Auf-
Some 5QO cuulies and 1,000 saldlsrs wen? scbnaitw often found himsetf through fleering
nsHiiiiicd Ui thr ]
on ini, (he largest construc- tlie thi-udolite s telescope into a blurred Ti-
tion Time ever assembled m 3'ihei They lnUiLTi i
yt, VVu fun rid h necessary to rise
ssi-tr te » f< 3tmv>, nutsy and happy-gi
I
j
lire by,, i- before dawn to set our work ilmie.
hoi it look thne uF ibi-m. lo nuui nm- >bmrl- We started the survey wilh im aiiiilquaied
There sibo êre many 4nwr lii^ns, Work- theodolite bdnnîruj tu Tsirnn^ but coin-
ers uuiÔm My brcWed buUef lea. Diners plt'tt'i I il with fine new in>rnimi nl
Di etit
rook pajg nictating pains not m destroy a singlt. to Ur by the National ( jeuRTiipmc Society.
In lent Nobltv Slud% u I’tus lt"*. Movi- in V/rn. ,m Lxhnu.vlin^, ( inmc of t.Ihpncc
"
"Lhasan* l&vc Id p^n^-k' ‘hr nuSluif yvj As nnr llnsr TTiiih-|n.iuui iHrcinj^ -dib a ctiui tlml i ir . r] i3|r
IflnplM Ift p lu wiirk. "I'hr i^vrrnmETii bozmud |)K

1ml Oflr euuld itdl fe«J- the rik£ trf tUaf"
Vvjfxu "/Jirt."
i
htirh-nnkinu dipiljjiT^ -M\\ Ilia dk* U|t im Min Imilirt |Mi| ki-tiltri wilh 1
pvt
VPhn^Pîeif L Usril rlMhNî^lic jiltiy uflrn Iria^'n them lim|j. Tike- MfiXfeN .jinvrnt lhr tnovti ui imill iilunui rn
tliL riiLf uuiulhI 1 'juJ j.tw| L u p?v, ^l-iiviiLkii .le|)krH3li tkncitf ihrk «iEtis:iu.l Hutu*
n
< 1
3E
.iFklnij i>n Kdvta P
L-ed in ctiic Aiithmr'^ Ffbzfl^ship \îrh tht Did s i l.aiiiq
Jlr B unfi finftln^ ipvc-jftj ji&ir* n-f skiiln IHr m iMtuâ fry Ttrlrlgifr pti [iIijtecii.i iimiimfiiS dialing part ir-
>h
on .t Sributurv af 1
Lt Kyi RJVrr 51: i: younz Kins, hcurint; nl rlir nr* jjwmI- Murtnl ri hi m
uiliinih
in .icckm. hut Otfcppfiri Hill *
foBrkLTPvnrh hlackrrJ hU vii-ii Imm |hi I’ntjdq itMif Hi- n-nt n rrniiino ;m nan-
i.iiiin'j-i Lu the ^ Nilici f jî|uwi]nj| him tv Pith o fll l i Jife' iiitcr«Ftitf ttt mjfleLLvti -on jl\\
Hr-rr limt-hrf n\ ihr Efr lai w-r'mi tlirotkfj ler a fall. Wjinsdiila.. monk affictr and
Lina- Irmnil uf 3 hi Audiur, gtiês braidUr him. \ hWchî -if I-radfaTi miisitm in Lhasa ntubblc? bj aI rfg&t.
The Govern mem was already payiim Ud- who msktisd u\m\ to homes of
following me
schnaiter for hh work in Lhasa, I loo i? friends in the evening and waiting uiih pistol
CMMsri ii as juried offidaJ, fifth
,i and sword to prntret ttir nn ihr way bonte
das» Jet VM&, My r mnnthK silmy aiAittillcfl1
\ yim;i
+
inri E took to trTS.il tht 1
sai ni-
tii ufait SI 20, wbrth three or fear tiits#f_s as fnentab ,u Sufthaj]^ ^ \illj. lie looked aftLT
modi m Lhasa as m the Lnitccl -Suites. the atliir filling se^'c-n licvwbs nf
Wfc were asked to study the possibility nf wBltr fr-r thv ypds daily There were \^\y
installing ii nmdem driii4flr ani’ii iifalrfc jirayer fta^s, arid .-iri mei-n-e hariiiT rlie
systim in the holy city. Neither rjf us hjj.il rwL 1

-iPftdted a miiio ctnientui
training: in tfeij^c fchgJtWfiniK fields* but 3n two of the flan*
Lhnsa wt were jacks of all trades. On rune
ocraA&in we rejjdlrFfd iduk in a temple

VMt* to Proviorri
A.n ; i i «* fvf run i* n f lifti- i;i t in i d i } ;it U 1
M ef I The t invensmeiil fait me in
m. jn.il* m), I f t:J t tlniJ t shtndd live ip a home is- idles win" waiued
imjpfow- advice; awu I
of im iiuti. rim:iL:Ji Almi-tei Surkharsq isl ments tm Lhehr estates. Trips by 5s >r^ and
ftred me one >if his viHas In u th.irminir ftlb- yak-hide biuit into sparsely lahaiiiited pruv-
1 1 r 1
1; n i
Dmitri, (t wna an unnsiiat huitse and uiM-, upc-iirrl iU"tt horizons fn r mr fn tiiT
etmsidirretl ve rv
Hr - .
mndmi bcfaiiM- of its ftmil- trifry.
HP
Wtrirdv Cm mi i n '
-?i dfth* winding l".i rm hm « i

r t hi h I -s ^ re tnt tA$
i
r i ict jhrvn f
1 engaged ,i jM?Tm-jn.il spry ml, \umi (p.iiir Farmers leaf fhij sttdjkHl noil with primitive
Mi I
Hr u is a husky blight former ^ 'Idler
4 wooden iififw* pulfal by \Izos. Thu i\/.u t a
1 -
.12 The National Geographic Mag Ry.mt

hybrid between the m atid Vat. b genikr Tibetans havt tiisc male, blit any marital aT-
than thr îTibbuni yak. rai^csuHii ii ei i|i*ra ted Urn t hen— or sisters
Efl the proving. Tibrhms are mured to — may wed the same partner to keep a him ily
harsh* trui*:il llvts. f^csJJj
-
tQftd ttm y tionsfad intact. FuriLLiciteli fealuUM ^kSuoi
uf n butt 5 iif lsan=i m kmuded with lea, a lew Stir? j TiiidaB JbejirL
strips id dned yak mreii. ami critlle&t cups of Eveo^bcn? in the length and bftadih uf
green bh ! mt ct-r lea tu E t Ihuye never known the starkly beautiful irngntry therr arc mon-
a ptN*p|e who hki^lud mm h. asti-rir-r, They perch like stone criKiti^' neats
Their i.miml ,i(t EitifJe hfvwd life Einrb iL* on the spur- of mutiniaim and hu If -
most M . 1 1 T i 1
1 l espressaun fn mnrrbê^ Mtfadt hidden in jpwa, valley
Levins' Home Forever, $ Sufi’tnfi LiltEc 1 5-n RiJk.'- Furth *ji Rjte ct \ Eimjsiury
i,£or&‘ ancf Vio|jcMnh Mimit * 1 4 ! if]i assbtfl prick suiir htaiLniJit! wla-n mmik* aHrrtdd ihitn
dura-* i:-ir*&ld. hot 5i thu i.ruatfiuiLbtt u! jj. Ittjrfi -ranking Iilitth. mnd irjf&fc Irfan tawny. Muiiuoh
1 1 1 j |
'
,| '
will Nv p . Iii h;j hs't'ii i.imlii uii ?hf l-i .nl- n! |
^ n = i i irT r ! i r hi- lik-=-in_:. \ ivi.il.
riili jvulv Hie rtnhl aill znU'r n iirvv tiirr il. iîiliriij u| vtw ul I hr njutilr} ’
A.'^lEhlcsl cNiiiters. tiki* tin
DijLil 1— l£i :.i , ht in mu' nf tjniHmn'i hundreds ui Living; H'- IiMIm *.
V?
kuadin^H rttstijjb mul Vriilunctfcn Tjiiinlif i* Mil Turn i (if u Ha min Slick
Tibet h;ishn [itjlili'.- nkui-j - u ni but jssUfcflMJfi lilt
? (
ul ^ l- llmr ^hikErm
t ij-i lus j.nd LhUdl? v\ ibrif
Tlur ii'irliiu fauna fhii outdoor .wJiori-i in jscEsiim nn he eclair of Fflaliia Sej
l pti[iPi« in ^jims an
H3n-»ii>ih fuLutifeg, i njijiny T'lbcf ufcl ,S ]U will) hnmrciLuili bpmhr-n |>n=.
Evitv family 1- cspnlcd lo jtSve ul U-ilhE L'jl iân^r ihtr rirtr*Fttdn^ yuisu; Kiny. who
me son Xu the Church
i
frumd .'
1
cl OfKtt luJ-l tii_ li.nl luTomr n j 1 .ink-lit pEioEu£L'iL| ilier* deliv-

The vu5 t ntajnrity of monks nrvirr rise jIjovt ered a mol inn pklort r&TMm m me with in-
50rvQity H Only .1 few brromr scholars, structions tu film alt 1 he fun and festival*
IVinSor f ri i/,r- ti ^cuJl tributary of the Kyi thus he 1 miiI'S tli Through the camera'*
l HT-
Rivtr Loli sim nntE h-vm*I pairs uF

1 htigvil dew finder l witmsSed iht nwitu-i-al ulury and
fcr skates itt llir tilt y Soon Lhasa VNimu- .
dally life of liEff= city.
veer? walking on knives"" with grim

1
IôbsanH wanch'il mr nut mu: i.Uy uni I mlhI,
emhtfsiftsra paê 31 ), i
riiMEiillv. "The Ktuidiin has repressed 1 hr
The Datn Limn, confinH (it ins Innely
i
\xhh ihui yon cri it, imct a cinema j&oti?*- at
rooms fefli-d about Ehr skuilnc paftiir* nti ihr ilir Jewel Pftrk II d frs raster p> the films
KyL Bui ibe Oini'pnri Hill hid the rink Linf] there is no projection room in tbr Sum-
in nn his hlnocntuti line of' vision. Ttircmch mit nr the summer pallet
1
3 t
Mturi Stru-Ti, Lhnsit; \ Huh NVhero 3 ,1^11^ Ttinpt nod Pilgrim* Yrwy
“i never i.r-'UHtil nrwwliir n Ww of fipiwU :sr Liuu) Uiu_iuj>. Lbs- uLitJHjf oiji]b “Vcodnfi oiTiei
tfcneriean Li>«metk F'.vL=- villi. hc& K L hinehi- silks, und iluminunL

Srum liidln, ull imported fra yjik-bjtk.
jhiI.t
\ harcbLiiil-rii prl I nidi a chiFtL fin^r timETi nf kittheffttiif? Sc^reri vendor frmtcrl »rlk lilnt-m limit*.
tuyse, bluet- primed 'Outi * CoutiUy Work IldUH" ilflhtlatrj id F-‘si Hjffi
1
[mw:i in Wfluttott cut-efti Ttbî’

Affair* I irfiml 0 Hsbi Th- Ljhji.^ i-l Ki/LW, rinfctai Lhtetf'i tiutalrtfL, .fniit- a- ln^ly walk.
Tin- 1 iiminjnii OfWJlM the i'll l lit: Jk.lT.li [9 nkiJlur iiini lit'JiifiTitLir, luit L dmibied whemer
T
fj|irtff t s sanctum* £he Inner { 4irrl<’ii . im Jftwd t hr iMTtpu i uaint wvmtd Ilm l hfrioi^h Mu-
f7#rfc. premiere.
Assembling UmsTi b^t cntltsiWi and sw.t- riliHk trade drleûthm that vis lei] the j
L]tiT^ p
I i.’utsverted 14 vacant biJildtJtg Into a railed Staler in 9 had resumed with a
1 1
LbrJlvr oy km^ . I'lir pro k'tljon 'ûS fo- disassembled jeep among ii^ suuversii>_ The
ment instilled [n 1 hr .mnes., fficji put together, jrrvm one trial nm.
Tliv Ualai Liurun Tim hjsxTii shr bum of mad- ihrn sH to wrrrk rn the i povnttimcnt mint near
tj ni Ifliillilir-i-y rnl^Jil Liiifioy ibr till] krtroiit. Llui.-.i E Miggi^lrnl W'4
1
«
,
irfmtSiit]dH ,
i tlii- jer|i
m we iiiiQt a pumTiliMiiM *ome d&lundf ffbm 1
-in unxllmry ^
11 lm-pt unit, .mil sin- Doled
I Ur IbrJilcT. The Ckrvermnm t hud provkttMJ I jun.'i 1 1 j i.l kEy approved.
, 1 1
Mv L ie iji I ii rbcLLfi. n Lhasa J5
W hen till? jt'pp Ftnswil at Jftfl park, a

'
"I >n you know how la work h 1 i s rtf >pcira I u s?

H
flew dilemma Lirsisr, The pto in (he Inner Ire a^ked.

Garden's wftaw ivrdT Hias tuo namtf¥ b> K-l The 3 i.'tl.i TLima s abbot prntn: hfs i-m t^|
It priss. Ene wirhoiiE warmth. The bov P
nlone ufanwai
Wltat done? ftthodo^ oTrf
fchoidd be ( n -
truce of emhaimssmenL
mnnk> ihook heir hiûls and agreed. iM 'Thp- ( He chattered like a schoolboy* asktns n
will ciinn'ii Itc foudwl. It tan* stood fur horlgEpodgti of quest] rtfjf ih.nt he must haw
rji.iiix i.i-' .1- i
!
bujlL i*i | lee f*-i i i^l' Morvd Lip (.it years. WlihoiM writing f--r
by former KsitPemrd Efhpljifls > he ruthetJ to iht two)^ tor and ->aid
Ilfdyittg tradition and the monkv iln 34 - ”( ome h Il‘Eu> see the m|iir ulntEi in uf Japan/"
yenr-old Dalai Lam;& ordered the gate to be li 1|3I5 q wartime dncuinehtnry Ulan, oblained
widen'd -\nd so it was, Hu* u[ri»rfcr pre* fn India. Humsily I hân i
.
. wind (be tiltn
sen 1
1
-ft ll striking te-l id power I bar! grnvrn un a ^winI Ffc înm HC rny I t-lbovi. wasdimt;
aware nf \hv y uui.h ^ [nricjfwndeflcc of will every mi nmnesil. I’lnjilfy hn rjiidgril np amdt*
mt\ his was wopduped
in (dim fie ^ and thfendfd thB appoint its lumself,
Tibet 2 eii Test Lsvip.g Buddha but the Rn-
=
?
.r
nvnl ind iittbota fftmti willed him a u child,. it

A Svlf-tnL?ij3tt Tcthnfcian
Thev did not favor construction of the thuja-
T" I be Dalai Lasna eiplainetl i hfi r hr- wbElerl
(it. They bmw i.hal it wmiW unmiifk an nway many tr>n*'snttif stirdybnf ihi-
exi. ibi!* new world to ins liauer. fntiiifsflive f>ro|ecior F had ruau^gEtd to rlmwrs
mindp and ruassemtile ibr machine without help,
Q:il'- the Inner Garden into
Spring. l l nrtir '! The ulhtsnEs. lutLinvvliili;, had t.ikm theh
an * nrhanied midi, The da> % grew wana, the plitfCS on caj-jtt-tH [jL-fnre I hr *r:rcun_ Thr
Brass- prrren und thick Peach and pâr hlus- Dnlrai Lianui atlled through the done. “Ii Ls
sotrts stiff eil amid tinkling bells- Strutting going in Man!"
pea cooks fanned their blur-firerri laib The boy bobheil with dclmlji j had ri !!.«
In old gTtrdrtirr ntr.isii+hd fragrant fiFiwef* up a -^leaker system bo provnlr b mwl
In ip I
i
in Lht! sun. Surranis cleaned ibr rnfinv fliwll a cnrtininnirntmii Itriweem lie proo-ctruii r-Chfftl r
Ittiiise?. in preparation for the 1 ukil IjUB.rs and aciilil iifiytn. the Datni Lanvi thrcaderl
arrival rr- irn I he Potnla, a -I'Li soil documeiil^ry bhn into the r-mjecinr
The rirema awaited Its vuhob manages he nodded Ifiwaid the niiernphoUe ciurj tnristed
whi-n ht- moved m stately pntoessinn to rlic Lhm 1 speak. he old abtMilM ttoi?! Intve S
iriiiTTmuT Ajl J focu^-d the ptMjm jumped bt-OLiPM- he tauylu^l aloud.

njL his richly ailnmcd |.i,d.iTiquin> he pewed Xt^f he r>r"iH(erJ a film tlmt J had mu dr
Lb re ub ft a curtained window —end smiled. at Lhasi fftjittvalfl, E'Sip -I'lf-^rmsi inih tnnnh-
A Si jiii tin iii^ Ut die Paine-?

gradurilly hM their sifftnes when they rec-
thenrL^lvrs \m the m r™. FlnaUv
After the disappeared fnln cavakudg they ifufftiwed ut n of aji nM cabinet
I rode bark toward Lhasa,
rwr] Park, J A minristirr napptny dining a king reretnory,
pttntinu bodyjfjuard caught up with nu.% h U Vfhm ihr film einli-i I rhe litdai Lama,
red robe flapping like wimt^ 1
the itbie-i- He itHtved ir-i > i
the
Kwrifo* Hearns la! Wc have been look* I'inpiy auditnrmm. Sat t:n-ss-lcKgjed itn [lie
in*? for ynu n'Vi^Yii-liettv ViiU itm to return otrpel. Qnd aiTimged liifj mi cowl Then ho
In the summer pal, ice They say you must Unleashed annlhet lk#od » if question^
’
On
1
hurry/’ flow * 4rl are y u r

y 7? by d«‘> y
n i
3
1 1
1 1
T
"’What nuw? thought* jVihfehap? Short *
I liiive yellow hair whim you are young?
i in oitr Perhaps a hre? Huw dp you Wrile your ftEtmc? Uji -...p Hfe P
t galloped hack U\ he Jewel Viktk. Liibsang I it here in the holy city? Can yon operair
grinning the i-nf ranee die inny tnnk?
siptii'LLrei I
at hi an \n airpLine? Hmv du ]ei
IntiiT Garden and handed in? a ceretnon S3 airjsliui^ fly? Why di> ymi luivi- hair <m
ârf, Vmni- !i iml- ITjp a ttumkei
\t the projectlon-bcibth (fnor I came fnee ^ he Inst rjueî inn truirhE havi twren mc.tnl
io f;ii f- wiiii i he Living Buddha tins Dalai rliitpTV, Tibehins lir^lieve their patron
Lmui. laiigli! Up my presefUai^ni sort vvitli ft hL ? henrcii t<n-L iW fnmi uf K mrfikcy,
h\< li'f i band and usni hi.' ri^lil iu blefiai me mated with ji fcirrrJtk demon j
find iNll- fathered
WLtli l! s] lunt j neuii s p .a L tile fiit-c*
j ! 1 5 r
3ft Ther Natmnul f * ci >ti r p 1 t-c Magazine

3 hit* [ Jj.tiai L ima revviili d isn u^ton tiding I
untH the IO-n'clix:k eoDvOcallon
Ir pitrys
wealth "i im^rmiiiinji , mostly gleaned by of the T^Jrutsg. a special urder uf 175 im.mks
studying pictures in nqsgplnei thru he could whi! siaJi all deni-.ii po^Ption? in ibe Govern-
Tint read. He cnnlrJ distinguish the vnrinus men hierarchy The Tried rung rcpcarts In hr
l I
model? of mrNlmi airrraft <nd .mtMmnbik^ Ihlal t_iica in n hniiy each day tii
H-uowned 4 British hiHtnrv of Wnrltl f*r

War II An l! oci>dt she JhEjo Lama fiim^ altWM I
1
and had u SQ0H of lilt pi*, lure

i r j ; cg.U-'-L'il m m L At time 1
- hEs mbiber ur I^jb^na may trull.
rapdoni trattelafed mix Tibetan, fit: kfijinv He h fn*e untlJ 2 o'cJuck, when levins
ihe names of Amcncu Driristi. and Rlksku) lie Ifadili unlil sicmitiwji. agJiin r\il< alone,
l4cldtt| liftcLjurohinri, Jn iwcytTp be then ffors to the Fotak rwif. His only dfvvr
Miilri not ronmjct .er-« im- and plucct w .*> | 1 1
-ion b wundftig the spircien^ and streets with
sm If he had criQected Eht: picmi nf a }iiâ,ff hiH IhnutniLirs.
puiasrle hue cfiuhl not put them together, MaSsivi? TlttpCE nnehij n Hue f'nUh a I
night. The head ireasuitr kicks and bolts

%U ^ faitjl 1 .urn. \J 1 1 i i- iputetl
nil d iicu'h \ wtiEEthijfei- w’alchnirtn pUCtS I lie
Tlifr bnv nbvfinuslv cspected the angers E" empty mrridors Mill niurn 1
. the fhikj Lama
riildh-- of li 'i i
r
!_ -.rarnhsiy and bad pltfnmd b n- Spends the eVtnlug reading nr praying
meetihg fnr u tong tinK ^'ci on bis Kwrn Imtlatlve fcje ad^fUrd ji| m-
The bouts passed quickly At J tA'ltx k tottmphy tts a ! jliy and und^bdk to learn
I hi; Sit pit n Khsnfttt, u fatherly eld abbot an alien knguagt]

charged wf|h look in ee at ter the Dahl Livuw - 'I’hwe hmnr in tht It ivol Park ? new tin-
w c- N 4 iritis ,
Qirsn- to the Lheiilrr. t'ffia changvd the course r?t tny life m Lhara.
‘-Kimdun your food •old. Flimsy? 1 v\ a_s ±i the IJ d.u l.iimuV ?H*ck arwri mil, urn I
LMtsu . Von iuijsi eat + There was jifccikm iE was

^berinK lask in irx- to topart the
î
iti the priest's eyes ttxf tone of voire. kmjwlfldjsr and ways of my wurM t-* the cod-
The Dalai l.;mi;t made t
1
sc uses, With -t king ci .i country larger than En.ubnd, I" raiwe.
f
Maiden jJirni of timidity lie drew a upyhnfi'k r >

lliii| CtEirmapy tnmhineii t worked hair] tn
from hr fufiJ-H of hi* oIkl
i In mx surprise prepare fur itn- iJaily In addition
he hiid written ih.p/ English alphabet tn 9iold tn abftjrtjinu: Eurffsh. âigrapby. mid uunh'
bum, rrrallo^. he ajdccrl r| ur-î it m=- ni ex'tiry tuaurr
TlrnriirT br suhf, "y mi will n^ch me this They rcuiged ftutti Greenwich tunv m ihe
latijjtiiige. \Te wfll start now/' L'.orii|Hi-ilFiin l>F the u ton dr bnmli
Hr framed quickly. noting ihr pronuuida* The pupil tried to tiinvert rnr tn Laniaism
i[i in of worth in jjnicefii] Tibetan dturadtms- The iJalni Lama confided that be was study-
He encountered tme difficulty the letter F ing exmi?*-*
accomplLsh separation of Die tn
which h rot used in TJlietan spirit Ttoiti the br.uly, Wfaen he fell al>s<J.ulety
At Ifinifth hr slid, Ji h my wldi ihil ym\ ûre of hfmscilf* hr plarmed tn Send rne un
1
(jime mimirtow in the summer hume of my u a 1 i i i m Jo Gurtuk,. in wesurn Tibrt, mil

famliv here in Jewel Par! will send for It, I
direct my actimis itutw ihe Pot ala.
yrni when I am free." ‘'kiiGdinT,' J siijiL smiling, “xvhfln you can
i walked through the silent
ir-i in ll.iini Ut I
iii i iIllL, l dtill lnxiimt -i ttuddbi-s
warden. FCnw remark Hhlir, lhisitp*ht T tu finrl I
B:cJ S "nit; ns I fiber

laughter, wit, and a rnni[.hdlLna ihirst for
ktiinvlrdqe an hoy who grew up vdtiuml ,i The ex|nB imejil uevTr
j rami c •
• pn^s. The
playmates, comm hi oil in rtidiffss SEicdy of h rsiy (,'hiiwst- Cummunist tide siirytij across ulri
surmiinded hy monks* cloistered in
rt riipturesT i iitbiiy, und Lhe XatkumflM fli ivt/niFsii-iLi with
iiglitnmy palace- Although ji ^jd-klog, hr ,
drew lo Fornura, Tibet feared fuwtdon*
had iccei™! less penm m dtlrntitti Uum a i I jdnisfir-r uti i
-
U'M UmM^ pafe iunl fit
. h ii ir |n?nstmt child. teiy. Tibet ujtc.

d rl^y had never hemd
fTiji brother LrphfKnjg once descrfbal ihe nf inp many /teak btrtbii aimut^ humaiL-. .md
DilIjs Lama'i daily+
mmine: am mu Is, a certain :rij>n Ehii!i the wert-
ie m lm'L
l up at dawn. Hr sJrcps cut
I - sfi^t orbed. Uu n hoi TiimimT itiy a wuti r in-
an iirdlritry Tilndan lied Surd. wmol-stufFtil — espjkttlaly ilrij^ped irxm a îirgtsyle »n v hi
I'UiMiins, Seryant* brine Tmltcr Iki, tsimpa .
.tlkdinl in Lhaâ. Thhi was jn^rprrLrd ,i-
mtil SM.'iji. a small washbowl, and an Amero u tears for iheir fate. A sturie sphen?
cjLti-madc Imrihhnildi# I
tHi fij&v 4*j
i
C *A§i»w*l ?k'iFTH|*lii KihJjcuiniHHi HI DsHirim TL*nnr
f- nL'cp-rbroiftj T rUiiipt-T M^nnh ihr Hour frnm Aliip n T^mpl^ On OiuMpori Hilt
!\<rion
I'hv fa :iii| I-.

1
«i r v i-i y ntirlan scftml ot nimUcm* wfir rp vimrul mmA* wild? far IG o: 15 ytarx. They miL^r
lAtnlbj^' ikiliI li.r i h_i I
- nu .Inttrn Niac ini-an! j.lLuxî .lekI - ;
«l I
!:-
Monk ph> iviwldrt spiitUf from a huh- fnan or
-
4 iTii\\n Tvmrdkt dnhtu bjkE *nm

m
it ctflifcu pimyi'x i-flrrtiv-r tor
TliL naijftk luH-nv. ? ibu tnJdiijy trararKtiiic vaih u uIrII lYucn Ibe pluie xi hJs faf, Tlic lâtala *Iu.ncfe at
Mtp UlAn :it rU:itl Milt 1
hidi mnuntiiro* ihoo-i up imim it ptaltl itifi-iHi m-orr ttkafi milts sibwre icb iuvd.
4 MrUtbfl-j jnd chfchl prJLy Mil Oi.iifptiri's, i;mt D pilzxbu luitfL. Ifu l IL t L7 hull . I « liBlpulk fjtijrb 1 (mis
J
1
hVi iiiiifa! UinpMEJhlM > - Lir: Jr] i- .- |i l|h In 1 1 1 I ntufc JJaJTr r
+ A Tim iib SrradiiJiMi the Way ^ I Lis < nth o| [ nmJ Inci-n^c Veil
5 ij>t
in 1 hu>u-, Mectfl nf iimiiiftiu I rlsL- UaJiii |jinm\ Flight Im Safety

LhiL i
u> lire ebbs and ihmijiah ibb arrh. the \Vhrn kcTl l lilriaV rWittritl ITlw In *t HI Ihfc r I
,
by whauti Mr. I IntTci t'ml enUimi (In

1
hufcy L3fine Btridhu Uni to Url SihUm lardcfc Hun id si
city t pujjc ij. The rfimriPri tyffiUrfta the iGtiiii ehaJr bp rltfe# between rowi fd rtwyft ttcJRiiistl
five- ekmcrl If uf the uiLEvcftr. The MiU-iUt* Um ttfpfe- ift •AVI Til U lT lltTll I Nil
wni4 earth the dcmie. r water tW n.ihbt. -Îhr. lifv |he
i ;
4 Monks Si- liu- Led ILLi- kftnun
-
n fbfc 14 t
CTFACeCl L EFlUUn. ill £. Utlll kl\f. i'lUVrl^H wVlfe i4lu,T. caravan with priP-Tr iSjo and ^BuJ-lihir. hanDurjL
i i :I
40
f Mnnltl iiniE Nun* SEnc-c Births
Hl-lI t i t i i Ihildrcji Vv>. jjr I'licif Gdd
Rw lii^ni Law, llfil Lli. -.» in -ujrt, imt
I
In- n r
wi wejii lirlurt him Al Janp Muti-
m$rny> i iUy"i juu-rficy frnrn Uic twl y rih
Ibou^nr!-, *1 wrtltfoR mndk* thtrw Lhrta-
scIvisa iniu die fiHtd LlIuju e|jc|r mltr. h*v-
ihnE him rm; !o kuve.

ilepf imtiEiEilufs 4’ave bunni'i- urhilt ihidj
I'likn pray In the sound gi ilium .im
I’nlati' 1 hr Ctf Stride Yellow Jhfc girder.

hKinks <rf Mir I 'L 1 1. Fl.nl «rr t gftHV
it
rrU TFV
#
I Uilrlh-'-n fftllciw ihrii fill n mV min peli^liaU
bCCSllifofl
4 L uyt^x-r: Yellow liaLs. whn?.£

niflfit hi nr|,Ti:ir bapcaks UmmLnii, wtkiinir
lit* mWt hi bln winy iuritb shctb and
! If Hi Lite pi'liivt! vrtl-WTi
I.inAtr Muni.- ami EHibl "i firepan (<«r tb*>
^rrtvd nJ the riiibu Lahu ail 3 lUFifEkhur

in Chumhi Harfo p|jw.r I hi
CiKl-klrur *lir|Et un hk lirL UiLmrtihUdy
U'k':iFri^ 1 q CTiH'Cni^J diapd, wht'l v‘ t-.M
IIKHtftl iTi-ih m-ij (vpt Miasn dwell,

* 5 nMni %l ci* iirihhir *# irt»
k. - 5*' 1
hrmwi i i Hr inm-fa lljjiH
i
i 4BL
T
*
*
rr_. il _ rf^pbi
«J®Wi
iIS 1
.JTj
A .
. EL 1
io*?*
iii Sublime Re%'ercrKtt (br iJuJji Lairm Q^Hoi Ml* Fuiili'x Huji-esi RcUi^
t
'
* " /
\\ Wn ihb jmupw mim K\iw iwi! yKjir.i. ukl. LYiy-tiul u -i-jai*. M-utulfrl him j.v U-.t L'trdJhalji n m TVhri'* pMinrn
sini, OkmrLii, isrjti *vf cht pm'ldUi J iJiUi Umut.
I JEesr ut Dunrkfaiir Menaalery in? radvcsi a in'iiur
which i believe to be Ltaal o{ Outiina iaddtuL who Toy niSe«J Ibfe rrUttEon m whkh I.siiiibm is based.
L >
An amitEHl pibiiti'i:! ifLhtr. tin* ]Jo.3u Lama bnimictcd thr- ll b :

"!i;jic .l l w
film nun;, -licit fyjwrioui* ^ mn
thf yiiunpr kimr t>u nki; !&=: rd in a cr-reiiiiipi like this, he told Mr- Bfttttff eancl3> w-hrrr hi: &IhmjIi| .fund will U
fstori-a. FtrMEiwd tvWi md M
fur !hn£i art* rciûifL-ct wiaim* drt Iw BLn'-Mest heailûf naiu f^sii.
h ;
RicLujift Imrrwns
ti Ynnfll fiil Klbjt
As Bhcti focHnaM T.ivtn-i
Httddlui, ifrt+ m>Ji n]n-i.i ,
. ! i] Liil
fTrfO hriititKporpD^ foiSUe: |n

3ai' 1
1
* hwiiHm I
1
] rs^’ attain i i'Ipiih
1Him ihr tyclf ni IjL^R h

Jmi&r *n4 ttthfrth ibiii thr>
may mrNfvc liir fwrtfif
ot oblivion. HI- bijJ. mRnfopt
i IiTjLl him Rpcfcb nitli fill
T'ifcii L j n* ozcpt bi-. Jamil. until
pa non Hi I siTvuiijU who hotel
elbboi rank. His days jrc lilJeii
wtlh slurb- insrj cm'rhh'itiim

CPffHtftllj H1lrhJ.% r^cis ttldUfe
N"||| rlirlrv. I hr author rfcig^
(tlVrnid in ('hr full ! 1= il( ibh

llmr r h i- phnlnsT-iiph vcuta r.ikeic
—a turkMin jlna.n
liVelv tin-
ways nf the nuuidt wndtl.

Hire a 'unnkh.tr Mi n.i f 1 1- ir>
iht I a Lu i l-iiTij hares hi* nuhr

arm. u iiiitum pewcribtsd tar
chr \'dktw Hat nrrkr. HU
lEfWlrd KCCCtppiDlu him;
E*u!>-|(iuTri> EtzilT,
4 Wit if ll i hi ^mi-kiriE
Tlh^fu rrii'iT Mpeh irmiiictor
T iHr’h-l n !i5 (CTtmm
rifftil > Hi 1
t«JiM liit" emUI
LaDuiV hrMtoc-r Hu: it
mini'y 14% ifflil IMtti HuJiShni
Al Hintlllb Otfvy iLteki
f prîuiMhi UmiiEHiiiUi .1 - 1
ji
Mi'UlrlinBnM » l!? *'

1
Mik llahaf
44
' 1 1 1 1
My I ,ire m I'ttrluddL'n Lhasa 45
(tan From the tip of fln wduK cumniL'Enorai- The Mati- Oracle sat miiliinilt'ss. his head
hm a historic victory* E ilietetts said they h infer] in hi^ hand?. Im-iTisr flmided and
l'cmiIi I
runt resect a mure precise miming from iOffllttl Mir irt There war n din: Mif hidlnw
! he garb. rum I -I mu iliytbm id di'tuiibt;ut- and L hr ihin
Piluriinp. limpt-d Lnl-> ihe li-^j city ifOlfl wliicji- til obnra,
distant pnHvhu r>. Lhasa 11* errclei.3 DOW prayer Xnw his face cmjiiE be seen. The fractr i
wheel.-, emt] flags* HutHfidal fires ftfetkemi feaftites. in thost- *\i a lunl^me yoniig
on mini n Li in peaks man trrrw ririd and wnM j
n Lifts -n-mi d IP ,
On 15. I'J.ii'J, 1 visited a frfend's Ik- drain inu frpm his InkJy.
luiftjr iri ittr *'vrikiji*f . Gt c-i rtwdrdrd the Fliitr] al.i rti ptlv the Orai.lt lunspf i] He be-
[3niln]z c.iliEe The dice rattled sa?ftly . bttf lEtn Ip* i|irivr f.
i
mpm anfi more violently r twfl
mi nne htumheil Mr -ihnTilfd "TjrirJk/' wtirn Hr lussin.Li ruLuids erâ[>e[l front his thmat AE-
tlXjk hl> Tljfll I
j"3l_LE_Hu* JQi Ifialuni.s heaved w inwrrinu ^0-fvimtsd lieail-
Suddenly an n&rlbquukr --hunk itn? hutiqt!. flies^ intii fkisitiiuu I>e=pste its wtduht. hi:-
I cuiinlcd 40 rtmfftefl ddiinnEiori*. That faiubi IttViiJ i£i^4^l 10 imd Ffn,
an Indian newscaster rrptrlcd tLtjniL ejiNh- Xnw he sprang up, Iris features twisti-d iûi
^Mfes in A^ssm, Hut several Wtvks passed of noîioiti Hy Face bapone purple aid
'iu flirt
1
Lhasa learned of the rtevaskition in
1 spiiiEditHL Swjfclil Ûstgfp'd «ni hk bmw.
eaîera llliet
* E hr dmnTflant reached a Furimi*
nrifiit
pilch, lie spur: about on one h-^. faster ami

1 j>unrr> fur IMtê faster,tnunmcrmp; n y;iant ring against his
meta] breasTphte -nnlil finally he threw him
were beside themselves with fiiithi*
LHas-itis
I I was rumored rhnl IEil- State finch- twW
id! at thr l hi hi i Lfttm's fttl uJal ga^pt-d,
going ihrnugh tr&ncr after Trance in

"‘Make Him Kcntd
-rrrt-i7y and in all pf hi* prophecies wp:nr l t I
dbcTwra|Siti^ r Sail lie £il die 1 iMuiuv Menrih

T« arm itself inr WUL the Lillii of ""A I Yu nr êrvEce"
lamas prepared both puts unri amulets. Tftiel \ Tttklim j:s-i : E'Ml mi pH-dtiim wsih [wv\
h itti inTriist'ly nations JtafVC country, ami there t m rJ jnii tflailif and hWrc intake- ni hrtatb Here
ilk cMunLEvI E'tniojr diuw.i eftu.iei'i; ’ikMnp +:hapî
was n stirip? of patriot k imi hiisiiiem. A musi- 1
inriir.Uf 1 rlr-tti nni fn tjiliUr U?e *lt. Tlif ymiJir'-vIrr .
dkin t:n[ii|inMj i! new national jftidrthrnt to fr* dcniiOH Ni^viUauLkt,.

emiUP’d a.Ltf
I
il.n 1
God Save the Qlutil, '
a Ernie Impurteil
from India mnnv decades agy ufl ifrfc aûmih
lion 1 hj|T. ir v,m- [iLlvi il everywhere on nftjrinj
occasions,
Cries echijetJ m Lhasa; ’Give the Ihiliii
l-armi thy* iinHi’L-r!

T
The move mefit tn shift control of Tibet fi
1 jit^T my fr1 : m 1 Hr * 1 ! - ki L- i'ni 0.1 i.spd r I it 1 5*

vi - I r •
1 r 1 1 I Mini m purr ihe ficrar. Hr
had 11 ni ulre aim'd he mi«'hi hr than 1
mveîH
Leli HL- Wp J Sih birthday, ami dtd lmt cuit-
b-itltT himself mid> Eu fulfill his dc^C-my .'is
Tiljej 5 iilKoliite ruler

His fpt 1 w a- 1
Icclfi I rd 1
m t H‘ 1
ibt?r 7 ,
I
!
1
^0.
rhint'^r rinmmuuL.! soldier- niiUihcd m ni-->
tht Ijunk-r.
Gl'Ihi faced aljbPbi and scilimt staiesmert
Simuuuiwd &11 tlu- iTiajur oracle f r Tin- [Jal.ii
Lama witnessed *in|cnt scenes in the peace-

ful flPtumiL-tfniri! _:r<njmt-. of ihr Jrvêl Tarii,
9 &i't '
’.oidil a Elk Tih-
11
In
*,
t ni l Knirhifiulee,
¥ K\ np
n -VV DinJ !i .
N It 1' " \l 1 1
* 1 m :p ^]‘ air: w ;«is£ k
MlLa.kl. 1'ifJ
"
‘H'lf !hr I jmi- 11
Ira-, bs sif i Ti in'Li 11
1
1
Ihjm 1 'I ;. Jfti -jih h R i'm L IN vn<i% "i( (j&n nêiHn
dclttlii r. J045:
h
I never aaw the DaLit

Lamu again in thr Indy
city. Sir returned tu
the i'L.litlu. vi'hurr thr
Tsfldninjt kept biro
'
under heavy guard,
Thr GoVmimiflfll faced
an h 1 1 he ; mo men toUs
p^dlilcm: Was lit tu ir-
ma in in Lhasa or flue:
1
The c )r&cle ciiiuudtdi

flight*.
Sadly *tdd ypndliyr 1
to Lhnsi lit Naveml*rr r
I'-JjCL \ f.ich nailer ii
decided to stay as )otl|E
as j
!•’ i‘isi 1
1
1-
. In a liuht
yrik i-kka instil 1 fioJtlttd
down dtr Kyi Klver

toward a rctidcivuiis
with my quavKUr T
jcztied bud* ut e|uj grriil

r
ft E oiiLi, hiiKTidin^ arid;
nh * ‘.hiuimu-il tinder .1 gray

ivi ritrv
ir
§kt\
» It receded
furtherand farther irifu
the distance, At last
I could >ee 11 no miinc.
I lingered in .h-u th-
em Tibet, relucLirit t u
leave l lie cu unify that
had sheltered me,
filter Flees b> .Nidhi
Meanwhile. hr Halai 1
Lama hud buen in-
vested iifi tiller, V nder

cuvet uf nia hi ii-u sled
fn in i I -ha nil with an
army of nobles. sffv*
npu t and suldlrrs
(pages J f .J
and 47 K
rioii-s TfcbaUiJi*, bur-
Hu fif J iK.it Her ned iron far -off =^tl Itr-

in riiL 'Snmv ,
:,l Gill I rgc* Sfrajid Yak OtiWted
merit* to N'e him, for
1
J
imiu: Mf. Marro - m.ifrfe> nf TTbcl in hH JbeChhuI urnratt NvEsnftf
t^cLk u Titoim ^X On iJlit IfÔCKM-nci-t pus^ nmf lEuf Bi.iinii.:|i.i’r i ( Esiv-rt|
being in hi> pressure
KciVvtnbtlf fftvfiWl Siiik-d Lu atnjl till I ;lI 3 r i riJ jnd jhii'i l lEli 3 oilh|$ cnktf t gav c Incmnjiarable
bte^sinn. TJu. y lined
Other oracles utrtrtff fee some cry. I the end re from Lhasa to Oiunilii Valley,
trull
The Ua Li ms hurl insisted on ronlhldjig miles 5undiwest^ with parallel now? ui
hi* With Sii^ tHVi^tfliertS ni hand,
leurns. jiebbTe- to pm ted tiiri r hftttirtl King f n mi
awaiting toly to auspicious dale, hi- hud evil sjrfritr.
shut I ! is -t tiool dgy3 Lo n ctu.se. At our final I Joined thi caruvan ajnJ n>dt with it to
m pc l ins he espresseirl n in ivu . 1 1 A i i
-
Chumbi 4 stlnni green uiLsis nesili.'d liittwîeh
sibiiii iter's am) my BIhiIaei and Sikkim. There J awaited
*
It "a (jcsi For you m Iraw Uin.su T be mhJiI. reydutrun of the [irkLs r March, 1^51
In
‘Yi hi vf ti. Hike d iisinl mu a, tv dm* Fur a, ttvivi\
I
iL'Lvlmt metdu-fcti ih.il I could mi gu hack
anyway H Go in iv. , Henris. Well cntnA amici." to Lfci.tsu. I set forth fur India,
47
\ \\ inti* rucked WnrM of Rock tind Sihju l:nvchp% t\m (>uttar» nf lift Kint!
Hraap Lh.i i|, (hr ftitlrtS ] mr» I
'.'A; -H.l n-ri : «5r «
, 2fK> [n-. !: il npjjdicf* umned with ihj< Euiir (fitim find h^wiE/:^n.
u hii^t of iffVJLtits.
1
and LSttl fiflflk. jiihiulEi Tbc du(, Vtijllriitetpl Euf tiac cmifp thlrr weeks nJ l hr
1
irtk.
I i
FI uh umiLi Îlk Haty Hally OS ^tmiuiKy j.*. j CnlliEUi Card

In all rtf T'l M-I-I tti MprJi'ti lUir* vhlb I Jill?** M rv? tL*. SillrrTli.!! tilhrill '!
1
,llfflllnp. Ml l* ,m llifnil
aJtmji lib; liiiini Lamji mule jimimii hii u:&siprli In ? imr im fcrcj im\n rhr mLrf’i htimtthnld
I
Lanai Sml nw wuntl There were m tw chaimth

Tils- rt* rived
^ hatrfftif gEiiitrds,
j
I h!liI s
llost* ;it hU moiustk reireju. but there luspeHUors at Tibet* borderf. As [ stcpjnil
ha dinner to shy fiirewrll (,p=igp *2 and H t- Into Sikkim, T recalled an nld prapin'ry ih;M
Rlc|ine ^vuili, followed by servants, the B .^rh Lahti Lima would be i br hisi n I hIm 1
and liorso, [ envisioned I hr r h_i n«* % shat if«* line. And my IS-year-nld friend* newly in-
in- lake plan* in Tibet the fifiMlft til lw ctfved, vested as the l-iih Dalai l^tna.
not eu- hail
In its face T ihe rumbling trucks Hut were to jtuynl jl day of iiulefjendaH. uqtrniublnl lEilt-.
Foil In Lhasa;, T M
thut Lht Elnkl
1 remm RtU T i Li > refill m> hopeful words at out
Lama would return io l lit- liuly cri} within a final lessen;
He M
li-w m^nth*. did mkthe nymtanJ still ii" now, Bjenrlg. \1V1[ meet flprtini"*
ruler fual a dfilly without true secular power. The full i'I Fti jur ii h Itomr* itramalir fnui-
1 hi>] nil tli4ii Tibet's (
>n ( mu ttuiJ, thnnijili tii'V vmb TMhsi a hr! hLr hr? in 1.tni?ui h Mi\ in hi
t^-M -#e IH]i^ h >'! - c'rt Ymr* ni-a, publbluh iu ihu
hi
the Jtmn42 mnai T luid humbly 1 niifd Bifttei hy ft I" ttiUti&n k Or Nuw York, and
,
i.ttti3fwK would protect ht land of kmttuxt

1
in T*-iûCLi In! by fiiljirrl Hull •I.lilVIn. 1|., London

1 .1
i r 4 l X
Under Canvas in the Atomic Aire 49
United SfcateS (Ause Guard Cadtn Crew a Stiuiê-rigged Yankee Bark

for TmmfrjE in Their C’ounlry s Ctctt M aril i me Tradition
By Alas Villikrs
tf*ith Itluitr&twm frtim Photographs b\ thr Jnthar
barW^ nor Eli sbme Uu- .dumlv-
0 \ Mi VtiJ# airdag^ îmked thmugb

l
( J l
i
e| yiirrU.
jjawcmd lubmuriru: NuktilUi ihb BU a hundred b lucks iufit as in the L^rt-.i r days <«1
ting out. .\s. my Hsifi Guard (attach llir A'aaker clippeh>, a centiny I before.
sped past, wandered brie Ely uhti in thrs [ I

To ihe LiTi initiated the mi nh t Imirfc
mtonuc agE I h bm fid fie guiitg out iîn lo join prr^tmled a pkturc uf ct^nsiile-riible cimfteilon
a square-rigged drip, a, Yankee fiark boLind Bial there wa* nnine, Tlu b?c 1
hnrfc was dnliH!
m\ ,-i.n Atkin tic mya+ie- hrr bkkUny^ and the Coast Guard:
E Ea^lr _ a* grace! til while
iMJiit alfjiif*.drie tin tad els knew what they were aL
with strftiirii!: gulden yards and a horde
\ I Emeu, verbal* in tJluie tJuiLrters
of carttts from the United Staler Coast Guard
Atademy fur crew. T swtrnjE Hiwnuil up the The barli lay nl anchor In the tower harbur
traditional rope ladder by the lineal’, of hr l
nf Xcw Lcndmi, CmnufCtkilt wliirh oner hod .
iji;iirli!r-dtf k. U lIiIi wk> CEittiliiLj in. yards *tmi whatehip^ ami flijipep; bcyimd the
were canted bouts were stnwed It smurd The btnl was clow aboiinl on ritln r hand, and
a# if 2 W
IiljS> feet wc:f rarE irau everywht re r ; i
it miL skEjHiil niuueuvenne to get a .^qu;ire-
1
in that orderly :uid iLMamlshinu «trin fusion that rigger under van m Siich place* ;i
mark- tiic -njitart^riêr s 401*11* In sea, the bark by head to whirl al fird, as -ait-
7
“Up and downE nms Ibr shuul from the
fc
the iiruhletn was to tanE her

’
itii; !h[si| itu 1-.
for&fjisik bead, with her and t:ct her himded ihe tight
I "p and down! echoed from aft, i.mise Way,, sail inti aluJtLt. under (nU control
the EnpslsU' Now the nuifl'H'tti rkviric windlass wm
this lupUbP The bthfk Order i r- dee tinu in the l:ujt of the table,
echoed ^crywhert* js eager youths leapt fur u Anchor
the high riajiim: tu ttu this titniiliuruil suitors The backed bend vurds, Sul! uF the wfjwl
Lisk. fmju om k\ir, jmid the iiniJEi yards, trimmed
“'Loust-the tiips
,:
cried ;i big tad fh,ift| Itttv.i t-* nil then sails a- ihe bark qinffd ami
-
mm\
ay hf twfc
=
sip ibr rigging
"
— nitil ht said fc,
iopd t H-.v^'nrrk in the rjesaieri direclioa, >lrnvly
nuE tjjpaife L^j.^ the 1
Loose ihr luj ^

1
swains her aPciund,

îilLmbd [.Mu- this, Elhs^c that] Haul ibis, 1
fdie stood a manseot, swinging there in [lie
slack that I This Isn't ftairig to be any picnic l stmshine. Li thing of uMcfed grace and beauty,
hi h e 4 r innei an rj the la d
E'
b
E 1 round him i
.
; iian I J :-iiW thnt the boy from lowct was funk-
grinned, men and lust sight, fur ihr time id 114, I
ing tin uip 1 nr Ln; the direction of the iXstuifim rrr
uf the atonin' jê towurd the bridge wtbirrv difcsal crxpwMt flttUl-
dur iiertKS tile rb.uLir> Ksw. Hi wib watch-
Srifa Pi I* Up Aloft ing the wonder of I hr prraflrinx wake ai ihe
Ottfcklv they loused till Bfc il in the bright hist blirk ^ steer aurl die breaking blue sea
ami sunny morning. White salts fCesccndtfl before the bow a; -In- gilheiprl a o
ordered folds tn stretch and Lmten brtwwn the hospital -cfean L|iaartLT-di.i. k
,
in Afl r»n -ix
the golden yards, Fore-and-afters -.iiti ul-i-fi cadets in Ehvlr lirsi white umform$ spun the
11H the it merry
frem r^jaJists id hanh-^. ( Ihrcr hi 1 iit' wheels, shining with brass and var-
m ningi ik and foresails swished .ind bounved .l nish by which ihr high is filtered. mjj 3 sailed
mnmriH while rwt aining iuek and riievl mi util until olf rail wil- -<-i. aurl it be yards
Irnurithl them tn tied. were friittttitrfl t«* thi- momine breeic as tin
u
Lei the brail yards 40 f-ir'ard! Spanker -Lijipttl s13i etI Ia >
>ul Iti si'a.
bflom ttsidshiiis!
11
T hr w I sii I was quiet ut first, and she ilsj'fwd
Aloft, white uniformed were i-vm buys nfuiiy atabout fuur knots the EQ#ft5 upright
where. Chain sheets rallied imd chnged on and the ship all steady almost as if she wete
a
«p
ri v/
H v
>
'.
i
,
5
1 -
MPB
A p
h k , J4 *
1 • m_
III
"
t Lflrr/fVj h AÊiT'ircrf //a j r J
P
jp.
r
A* £a^/f Squares- -Vway for Hu rope.

C^fidcti Hdfit Small Rival > -\inizLi J
m Sail'* Tmi^-horiored Way
With Ibt IhJl-L,, fiifljjJr
|
"hr lull'd Si4t41 rnaM
1
j I .Li i C Ara<3i In - 1 1
'% V. I. M.l 71. L’lThbLM llL'ut ll-
bnni it' t>-. tuf in the (U£lh! 1 i.rjii:J ili L be- ideal
-rhiwii Iijj -i jnuEutdp Kir/y A adeem inrki mus-L a
make four vo-tjels in 1th- gfiLctlul ve-.5et lervinz

in h-t
1
! (.vnfking ctl-u aa title-, ihh Rxoup "rtmnijifl"
Jhr tnjifcliitll i c*n ; he main ci:ek.
Alan \ Uller-i irtnetl JOti ruck La tm £ra i.
r
fc':- run *l>
F
1
last scimmer T'hr 'Utter K {®p\^

-ire Abuvr) i- cw-mi i-miril Lb^m, nllilnu^lHb^ sj-ibsif
-ki|i ^4tji 1 1 it ijl 1 jam- ild:; b Ejav%*t|fln*J ri^nipfiu^l
u-ui jttfflpAFy t'lL^lriu riL i-.i- ilo help tram my-
th|n]i uffnat
i’t*git% the Suii Ri rd Sce^ Her.

Muk<is R^Hth to Her Sash
Lvunrl'ii ! m it temtnitn for Hailiuh i uivy.
ih T I
: HJ-O. h L'. •! ihLn .inisui urlipinally l*d:l tb*
name Wrawh Ailin World War 21 -he wens

It* the Uriitni SLhM as repartitions:
Here, with Mr. VUDrra utw»zd, ihe Ls- abnul ic
bruin III l voyage. Cadrfai a Full i-iM uil the Oftfct tt>
man ih.L
-
yard nsiii Ioum? (hi ram r frlnriTs sHittiI 1
del the quarter-deck. Six cuiMs trti in bet i rlplr
wheel ihci4 of he nri-Eien, nr wfiermoili snu^t l
(L'liinlr-j iud loree-a^hi ’Urniti qHiiEij in Itu-yii

k mentis nr thru iptruv mild mScvr I
auLheatie
M/iiiJ n=ei1 by siiiEun* of old tn li^htm htiif lAAkt at i
rnlivcB (lidr Ftimsil", 1-iftr? itpHntyl with per-

missieb rjt W W, Sueton ft rnmhitiy, Ielc., frem
dmmVuKi jri 5at|| aed CilwwWyj by Frank Shay.
ildjflrV ill- JbJ hft hn-eLtiivine Jt work, but sink:
I i
ItlL BAD III tn wililttl below..)

-I V* iiuml U*np .
1 1
i i.
- -c i'i-
Kn;l|i|irnn|i ,
i HI 4 Imr I'llllnri tiiil IMIlM, left?
frw iiiimt *J*iicrin l i' Viair^YfiiitiJir K FSkiUip-t
i 9 K 1L e
S 2 The* Nation :il R^figriipInL Magazine

tint moving. She had been put Under way l^t possible iraininc for the Caddis. llihI a
qiiitJlly and weE] that it iall |n*jjcetl easy thjrrl of ihr lippi'P Uînrii would spend A
AH ihU rime L ktd-rtfrmd fay brent of
tilt? third id 1 hi ernfee in the /?"j hnE>ay r tile other
I he quarter-deck .uid miirveledx Tins was my tiothirib in t hr C..u /< In the cutter Lticre
first \~LLiikc-i- Sfeude* (if bxtcjip mate and

dip WrfC fjnlv 30 lads, as comcjurfd wiMl about:
I
blowing skippers' And belay r _ pin &mlp 200 in the hnrk,4nd there waa therefore time
for breakfast] and -part on /fcffîiiaay In cxmênl rate 1
m
offic 1
f-
1 y pf tin,? Ir- wa e l: likeeplns OEh ;i in tdc rn
Wind Recalls Crtflt Days birklge f piitint'ry . enpiDecTing, the duties tif the
The writ 1
ngjrinc sang the song rjf weather ship: and so on.
the uneinte wiind uf the jruiit days uf the Only upi^rcbsEnnun wrui in (he HwJtmvny*
sidling j .,i
-4 when (he Stars >nd Strip n*- flew GnvtTrlassmen nude the whulu nil in the >. «.
ffWn thr peak* ;uar1 stuffs uf the xftindrartf Eagle, (a parlkfpAtr In all Iht muuy-plmscd
dippers ajncl whnlejiliEp* that bla&’fl tie activities, md r in the participatron. show what
paths of all the world. But this was thr year they w*rt- made uf and tlntetop thîr qualities
of 19541 Above \is jet Jtftgrfflt left of leadership and resource fulness.
vapor i rail:-, writing tempt upon the
in c
HWfniqg :;ky their message of man's liwlEes
TrnliiTfii In Sfttl Tim Vidua
progress. Any of Ihc&e — If it had the Bur wh \ a âEIing ship?
flld—could ê In Europe before that days M
3 Dn i
l
tliLri^C sureJ
1
âid n bright Junto to

sun ^t, Ekgk was bound for Spain and illr. iktmim hftft I May .11 m C!l iiL'Vn
might make it in thrive wet- a map, page 28} comnuuid iin American siaihn^ ship There's
Vrt she wite no miutfum ptoe* no ftvived miK this mv. hrrnir I’ve yut 11 Dir. But
relfi ns yesterday pmwi briefly to -:*!j Upon ] like h> ride hon^harit The our
m ime stun Sbet tirhs new ship as filler!- un,
r :i
hoiw F I gnppouftt Fn a way/’
f10 ill In Germany in So. and no? a sivm of 1 Maybe I looked astonished. The catlei
rust was snyvrbert^ he decks and the riy- t
IhtJ^lttMl
irins looked ail new. Bus the f Flouted orders i found when
!
3 was driving a S5RT that die

lire frsjtiiUN"- ill Lhi* UrcW \hv nurdcr]} 40 d plain hr«r>r hmih T"d learned whtTi riding wa*;
rhythmic chantiiiif as Ibh hauled. w-nr wm 1
gpitHi nwid sense, too,

r'
he said. Il k iIll- same
frientiml v- ith those the clipper crewmen knew. Itete. Hai^ ebmentnl stuff-
Ls Whets yuu'rr
il].* aloft you L^t—well you eel sort of ibe real
Clipper Mnti Would Bl: ni I hnuu
fed of his Mafsmag business ir .s youi 1
r
hsmatd McKay- -that crcat dipper- buiM- hands that do thke?.. ycnir iudgment iltat
frig frmfus —
might hnve stepped aboard the criutii 4’. \ riii can sx the w!u and r lie whore-
I'.THflr iii ul ] pkerl ih
*
it liirn with rBptt'l .inrl 1 tetf of whiit you 're doing. like tJjal. I
admiral inn. He mi chi have ciOled th" ab* "'Jhu effrii'l ymi M-irerJ the lirsi time you
srfior of hJitdies for the EtiÛ: Ts nul a cargo

\ went aloft? I asked.
ihap and therefor? has pn rwed of three (fr-cfc Ob, yi>:, a bii. h [tints el mighty tong
1 n*ns4^Li -
i| and he might have been astonished
]
wav up first Lime- you climb the rigging, and
at the appurrniU Lrge GftW* llul C<puld l it tfsok^ even -t langet wa y dwa n&d*- Biit
bavr explained in hrm *hat -div a training at th? Academe they have a niiKie] maM to
'hip. designed nitirl built fur the ftjtperieriiie show si rt'hnl It'S all abutlt. and lie &i;fr Is
1
? 1
the ^quare-rijêr pmvided boyi in character at the pier all the time she Lao E saiTiiiiy We
development and End^trinattoi for thr- -.ea. cam itmctbe ihro.
He- would have understood.
might have added, roo. th.ii 1 -was there
I
Pam SV
tot the National Gt'ugnphTc Society, by Const

H
G rCtwJ } iMv Afixjj k hut G'a You Mit.ii'* +
Guard umtftrion,, to make the Ea#k''$ eighth All llaud^ Lfiy Aloft
annual cruise And If Ml: ay bad looked at t 'adiji-i >lHL'erN t Suiiunttnd
astern where was following tn

11 trim cuittir Alremb vip In f«r "nrlin^. -all* SLiiip-
to §ea T would haftw dqilatod thut was idly; the win-!; fi cm bftliibv T'p ?ii tillitin kIilcd-
H
fjf r ihu <a 0 uL.*- til ciJiuiJe llm ûcm.-.j^ p u'i ^ . ua

iht Hi n^nuv.v. a regular Coast Guard utter,
.
i.
itnnd= on the nuilnlop wherr apcbiirh fnu^ht In du y5

and thul d was tS^“ custom for one "£ these t?I iUEEinc ctcn-fl-âT IfK Iznnmcirr taL-ln^. Ih'N m
pqwer gutters u* -h:io the mij^ 4 1
, rmiinf nhnn&l “Lf-i.k -li^wa h&w murk ih 0 diip hLi:li-
The object of ihf: cruise was to provide the ' >' jS3i.i h ! ftr-. k r(lLJr «q-lnh Km** !• U.ir V ULm
1
“And, remember, this tfinsalliintta run Isn't cutlery with noc break. i sifcrr than;
-if
.j liEsc1Acatiemy,
1 was \mUy êastck I iryinn Eli pet around in the tfnffic asbure."
then. Ami didn't Hke cn gn oJof1 Bui you 1 Dipl mu Bowman expkiinrd. tim, that there
1*
3^1 Oyer it qitkk, excellent reîstras why ihe <_ -1 Guard
Dipt* rarl I{i>wnian ijiiige fo 7 )'
p
thtm the sticks lu the sail Induing milter.
!
-
'-kllUJvr j I
1 I lli.il! Ill LI i : . LJ I -II L j
I
L I
'l'i ‘‘VVc can see mt bays here all lihu time, *md
Ci.iiist Cisi.iiNl \caiiHiiy. tonfirmed what the we j
i|L t ll idea wlul they're
pretty eoi-il made
boy fcutd îid of before the vi iyx.tr > uvpr " hr said. f
T 3 ie t„ 1 ill 1 slinnl has usrd mill traiidns A cadet, whu l irmfTfct te~ the full fenjr-yeui
1 ! r .
‘hvfriTmi t# !
r. « h H*=*' fi J*>m ItfTin B iHs+insT r |*f| . urf In. "on F -I
/Tflf/i- Wc^Hi Audi Mr with It l

I Ij lLjK crn The Capstan Bam
l nrlcf tfaf iarnpuin ilat lift! hark hud all hand.- riper .lEtd
jjbrirti CSttif ii^jird fcnwe™! uiik iht am
Tht tiHjntui (hack-
jtrnuisdj, Piis ulcE-fafthlnncd w ullL-mubEHi liwu-icr. L4E| s-tUl
hrtMf Jtt tti- jpftpbniT fltfialitii a IniJft «! rnai-h$fwe> ifUl nf iJ^bt Iwkfltt
+ III. i. :i i r I -.-fc'i-i Et irE 1 ti i link ii.L^:if^lj' I Ik _iii i.iI ItUTiJi .i- 11..1 I liI disi-.
dull l
i. - iLf M kciL wfrai Iff and iilr tht W\
LlNMFSr .it t hi -
\l.L<IeM11_V, L]lC ('.splLLItJ I'XE* Lilli lit}. hk dune in the flui'l-tfiniy* UTsite in Lhe
mukes losir crakes in the ivigfc — twin to the liirt I
[iiBstina bear Lhr rani rp-
3- '.j 1 1
1
n- and two to BfiTputi-L.- ^ponslhillty of wtchkeeper* m all branches.
1
'
i r? I ht“ mu tes r hi* m i i In B erh 1 u ht T
-
a - 1 n rl« **|n tJir CfHUtt Gourd you kflVr to hjivr n
it 11 E^t hill .l good beginning 1' hr sefcmul year banl c^re of oft'jcer- you can mil the iIjih Em,
Ur' E.lkr -.
hi:- ll I S1 Imig CtHISC. U^llJlIK' til three CilpL.j jEj 1 UoViiu ii i
'
1
1 L . i i j i > I
parts in Eurnpe The following year lie a,ntr$ l liked ihiit express fern. It sitd a Sot.
mi rlir Bermuda cruLr.e. hut this time

in There to Tm lioulit jo the jCnptuln’d tuhul
with e spent net in dial 1 he siilinii -ihsp i- a in'1 ti- r l^rinur a muni I
Hi- cruise k n second run in fclqrape,

1. i-l fur 1
h i S L I J i l i ibe btitki ur Liu- dr- Its of .1
mui k k during Liut nm he shrunk .l third n: j

lewe n*d cutter can hot t«e
4J *frllim«l UeuprmJjfalr - IbIj Jjfi
w 1
Tffe fjp, Aiiy Out , tfftrf /d£a' 7 Orff ***

1‘m ^n llae Trials inert. I'D*** i.‘.- men l| Llic ejkl LJijipr*^ uirkt* fist btraiT ciJivUi Lnio ji pficto furl, twi
i vet-j. thi‘h will n.-LUt 1 1 ^]cr|> ilac jskifd îUs it^Jkrb. d&irl J|lh% vtiKM spiff
r s
hoit-Iir'ii*-* lip l,M*i V'i.1 ii r-
in On 1
SUftmtul Thu Witrk ,1/itur AY Da nr*
Suiluniirun know n Eiirli line* md -Liy* m Elii" ntiui haiji.L»ritl tfci I
= n fn*| nmi, rtUPlrifl llniiiiiift r;?nvrt= a or i^rve as
ftwl ,i,m\ Ii ,-fcm I, hulriB Ftixzty leaiidh- vl qA^rWqokk k±TjP St am eliinjii; huli-v in
1 . . 1 ‘
,, .j ,
i.:
.
if*.
l,on«J' Fittre.
JV*
1
L-
Ha*
Y-.k-ii'^
c:tt\C ^
M1bjMn^r£>.ri T" 5 W£b£N

itaYU-lfc wUbJp-
t 1 «
n t * fc<
Wort h A C*n
iVi'=ini-?re *
BunI"'-Ui1 i 'l -
O c n. >*
v-
DENMARK
v— -I* \
jcn
PdA -i-i- 'utenhff^'n'i *.
mi
*V M ! iota? GKNfmpfj c AAijp-
COPENHAGEN
S&
ill
£di^£ Ldfr IXL..W Sea Mile* ITi rJTi UALE1 EaTIJTI bllLlIL fjrrl
tfoTIjf El L.I rn 1 .Sfrfj-
[{j.'.LJinHijiHj Au.imvi- tafsr notlh At
—
Um u 1 /ltp
#
j* Mirkeri
jIjuej! 50' writ IcinzituFJ? |ut finpB-ll ifc? iff iîLJii jjjuJi'j-
t|l
r" . .
.¥oriî5hej£i3riiil
ChiihiM \writ. R/tffe i+elj *m *ifiilfiht S^nTiind^r* * AmsterdiiErL
fiir iM
SimJii îmI fcrutiLlSnnHy. ngeitii JSanrl/jjfjjRj dirMtor C4 î :if
Nbrl Fl
Shu iiuwui Eh ^wiiuiiku in JO ii j-v ? . _ _ . V- Atftfipira uSVii
-Peters
rhea r.i I k'li it Anuterdani jjrvrl Cupni- Tnrrp'flrraj NETHERLANDS
hjLEL'n. I.'iiit.-'ll: I liacfii.
1
^ jllr liiilk Jfi
i\\\y
wJiJi .1
*:ri
I lil]
rill
iJ ill
mull] :ibMm-
i 'i rii
a
'hu uni!
LiUt u liLiiFaC
wind- „
SPAIN
\ Ji
.'
Ti (If- GrjivEHhajrti
#
i
>
r w hr
iumfTii;ii. scrufirht lirveirinr cnitrrJbjt
SANTANDER
Tlit Cdia&j Tiu^Lrd ii a unique Service with

many varied anil nnpE.1rU1.13i duties. It MW
liiE vt- tJir brat officers available Any qfikrr
uik^ht Find him -i -If in m k^hreikfrT iw an ke
[ m1 which he I', S lAral Guard ha.1
1 1 1
i
i ,
miimtamrtl sinci-e wit TiJtffl/V went down In

19 12 i ur stuck fur months . i « «_ l n ; I
-.unr
Stormy i&otatod weather ship,

r
Ship i'n-ijiertSiiPii rhe m.iuitcnance of n.L% r-
until untl :ti

d - nf all kind^ rescue srrv i er.'- air
[v-iiTsiI, hiu enfurcement — ih^c urc
utber Tieldi- ^lnr.- i'h. i‘n.i-l f.iunl nflicr-r
tinijlhi br t
1
in j
1
1
} etf, sniUMi he a_n all round
nun. steeped i n the I md it inns t*i t ln'
1
s*fa
M-iriy hiîi->[iirjter] Vmetkaij )nda woiir ti r
l;,emnu Cqttii( OlUU'd uHiiVtfr.v ^pplfcawti find

tfust ilrur jitiiiidards of the scmcc nfr hitfb mul
tniinini: r{|cuftxtt.
rmr.tin t ce i the tudrmy is by o.Hm [wr t v-e
c-xaniinatii in ThrUEîrirl- -i? find fr\v ary

rhiiHcn mirl ihe^r frw air weeded r-hnmgh
— 3 [
U ruler Ciinvas in the Atomic Age > IJ
3tevl% during the four training yours* Jf i

iti t and under bin no thudding
hi- lirn'.-e
Ehr nvtmue rtu rrinu class nf 700 or more, pni[idller rhi;H us the cutlrr, her mutinm im-
usually fewer Ltau 100 ynidtilite. parted îTil> by ihc wind syufiJ uMmu.
Lead l
1
!:-.! up. adaptability, l DO -per cent relLii- WhLLLt .i iiiiitr;iHC lien!. ForTtnl 1 could
bdity perfect ton of seamanship in
b elII it? many sue the nsrJjif scanner pivoting perpetually
phases iht&a air the qujiides tbe Coast halt way up
sled fore lower oiiiî with
tbt
(iiMrd seeks in hs young niikerF. Ehe whim czmvitf ol (he foresail stminmsi be-
fi jir it the big chart house alert carets
f i i
Sail T ^hl 1
i ic* Si 0
1
] ii .in cry watched tile r;-d.ir femrn, while niher^ tested
The F.*cU\ siitj Otjdsih Biromim plays a V*?lce aunmunsiLLilmiL with the nil let Rmkti-
"cuHl part [d rJeniniiMratm^ thfcstt ihini*5 citi<l wiry and checked radJt^liiwukm ni\ir.
fti dr vtf aping the qusiHtn** ihrtnsclvi'-v The The has eviN j thing. Vhv cadel* n
isea in si III a damremus calling. Those who the whi-fk -iH-en/d by izynjcompiiss, Orders
will master it must first nttfetar thtittScfees. went quietly over * tmdifraker *ymcfVI The
unit the fuffr gi ves (scope fur vlf •discovery |* iiinmnii Milting man, called the ^talker w
J reflected op t k- thEnjjs as the bark in by tefcphime with the whole ship,
iiiuch
hlipt^d aJtiflg in the slowly Increasing bro-if, ifcottL llie luokosiL up in (hr btlH'V lu thv cfil-
pulsing Block island, She began [ He and gitte mum below where the big ittawl. named
curtly tu I hi* lane >;e.i dipping and bowing

.
"Elmer by rhr lads, wm? always ready.
'
gracefully as only ih\* sailing ship can. The

wind m ms on the side, and f-he lay over a GjidfrtS Sleep in 1 t jnirwVekjs
iiltle,
eioi rolling in .l ne^mer would, but beefing The

cadets slept En h.msuioi-k^ (except up
a III tie and limiting alone, os if she were ytraLn- pi'nT:— irien, who had linnkv] hi du- iwren
ful for die chance, dicks, d“ sudors diti in the frigatr Crni.itiiu
\ti cadet iiiJker oi the watch walked
t hi fit itf, bti! il powerful bluwei system sucked in
1he loan quarter-deck, kipping an eve on iho
i
good nir to Tin chip's com
fill their luogs.
cadets ;il liir w hi t-l the cadet btsltiu .tins *sL - r
party Included mf-teorologists, nceuno.M.'hfT-
rtiihnen, radurmen, (UivigaMrs, By the whosls Li surgciin, rve n .t iiLstorfou
stood li slim ymjlh with powered. ca rphoite> At dioai- time I followed the line through
.> !> I.i“ cap li rid a mouthpiece^ ready fur use. Ihe tpidoys valley For gtnerni^ helpings id
Behind him the graceful spanker was. swollen ovest-mzistfij veal, tfl flihpi potatoes ELcd green
\ Shipload af 1 Si JeT* fnr NpdnS \ir Fu ca Arrive* ncur f.ttjfL \ Refill i/U Sunfjndei
! 5 I h
UnJer Canvas in the Atomk Age M

toftatss. knhrntLd of white brnjid .
wm the best All this, a few rrwrnBhs earlier wnntd haw
of SjufU'ir, vriib tee rraun to follow, Huules been as eornpietL-h utitnlHHîhU 1«« thi^r Lid^, 1
of va [ l h i it sr ii n i ! sl.i ft kfLsh used to hot rods atul trips by air m. their own
f E wjis n fell dflTcrtnt from the ohf hob rod jaraoji would have been lu me.
nictirs coming round the Tl urn.* ] knew Mni rimv a] went with 3 swinu Down came
\ aiiLrc *htp* hid the mime inr mI feedim:, Ihe ihra^Mia^ my a I m ho OTothiml smartly
evrn hock in the bad old day Ih.l his was - l by its êar, Aluft nscul biur lads whjlr thr
tvuadfffiiL And there was- a surêut^ with a rr-i’ watch run
of the aft m lake in thr main
skkTct} fifst-dws small hos-
aCIcEiihlht a fill .1 royal thr same way.
pital to take curt of any who Lint sick Htis 1
Spftiy 1
Enoded the wbate forecasdr hmd
wo$ the life! There wfre faur fit l He wheel now, anti sbr
wtti driving h.ird The cadets ;it tly wheels
Suit ini fur Spain strained Lu hulii thr b 1
'c
1
in tr Iwirk to a gbod
Sg the pnisnl and day after ila> wl>
liiiyf course.
sailed tciwntd Spttm MMnftimes aL® peed, >. .
1
1
Captain Bnwman stonii m wsndwaid, a
sot lice nifs slowly, s.irngiteus with goad winds
i
îlirl, patient risune, s^-hooted te
but more nFcen with bod. Such is the way limily on like wrL deck as if lie had Lrmwn
of the 'tailing 4dp at _-*£a, and Elur making nf there and hvlonprtl as surely ns the inputs
her voyage fc a vhallrfigf li» rar l:lyw th&msehres. He said ntikhin^, Iravinu rt lu the
Always, the faithful Rbcitiwuy ok dels If 1 hr fcellnp nf respond L-HiU h ru
ulunji behind m nr hurried jtt full ihrntEk lo hr wmth while, it mu>t he exercised m cmrr-
keep up Eagfr cull Id move when she
for the geurfes too. nisi im-rdy w’hen all writ
jpH the wind. She could twe Hung Si close Not hat this was 11 real
I Tlu-
to A knots* lljlc] there was n- puc—wnrk ubuul
3
sasEs came in uUkiuijl bt.it her. In bi ti.llu wed
it. rlthiT. Willi :n> i> lem precb-iuii afethod-s by thr other kftes the dyimj iilj, lm tT-tops^'l —
hur 5fieed is knurnb within a iiundird vunfc Elbe three-c unit red saH Uie spanker pn
1
Thu / r'ouEd tarry HI sail and stand up the ujl/jtctTimufl IlSe royal staysail'’. Ctdch
i .
even m a lO-krtot wind, and we dir lhat more I

I had a [ready gtnwn lu kisuw muzzled thei^c-
lh-tTi i iMilr. Mile £yelling tje royals. thi upper- 1 ?aiLs —Tuta 1mm ^lassaebusetu. Hut
enui=t sqnan- sails, wife made East in a squall hta, and Minncsula.
of wind and rain.
1
Officers Join Orcw AluFt
"Clew up hr font royal! was the order, I
+
-bruited by the uppe rckissm an nn watih. But what Was this? t p ihirre, Eoo, wen- .v
f lew up the Hire royal! Shm the dt:w

11 four-stripr captain and a lull inlander,
li^ and bunt line?! shout! ctf) (hr bakn of tbp

1
rtfcmg with the boys. They won? Capt, Kail
watch. The it k wju heeling over, with tlie 1 1 .
Zittel,slung fur Ilk experience bpfnrr 1 ikina 1
sphniEift Qyins and the wind howling in the over the Eqgli fmin 'aptîn EfawmEtn, and
1
1
,!j I bn
-.v. L r i-cK1
n ee hnu h I
i I . r 1
t'orndn Lfeil Eitrk. Acatkiny
'
Hiker in
I >
etiuttic stuff n tape Hum day? tumult] b

E !
‘
charge of the radets.
SfHfeial Tin pair ni
handled* them raced up Elie rigging fur the fun trf thr
Halyards were thrown oft lb* pfn, gear thing ami the 1 Krill of ee WMi ibm iw
man tied. an_v 1:: j :U wiiidhEii* t luitl knrwr would have
"Lower away Haul away uei those dew dmir that? Vaw a ooi J m CErudn. 1
line- then- Check in tin- weather Hare 1 1

So 1 went up my.srlf -m* 1 just theia. UHvt
I wrpt, I" Lft3te ajsitn the unuûai jud 4
Pace &Q rsns views of the sailer 5 deck one only
*-**.
. r {'anvtiJi Tmif in thr 1
N hifii'iittf Firm* re™ from high iti the ricdhii, with thf nibksnned
MaiirnttihS.^ Hid ntem Swells? figures cuingabout their work, the muits rHl-
lift the W iryturlyN I'm'nrmri Surit? itu 1
md
pitching beneath [he iky ihr
The *
iit*s G^rrl i 1 1 H-ilr- |UBQ knot^\ 'p(r<d ET
breuking by the shapely cutwater, .jnd the
muk'f her 2 * rtdij, #Mch ijpwuil -l T l?0 iqusrr feet foamy wake streaming «irT lit cm away m\d h
a rh iE)st ii-JtiiE IjJ I

iti IW tllrhtt&rd itway fnlo Lhv (finance.
fim-djNPUip, :tiL> foul i\ ktcsL j,-Ktfrii i>i :h*
-
mttin-
i'j|i]izE
The Eaglf hud el Job Iti do lind she i*m nn
uiiihl lnELy LhbtbLccI itn[< Etr bottom • Lti t^p.
pal lant- -, upper lopiail fowtf lup-Jil Liiiit m_iin-jil.
* Sk- Iti the \ Vnn% -u. llf.in n ii-u |i- Maiweesi.:
“( apt Ho^n S>niji S!it|,P Tinax* Liniutn 1
Jqjs, nfid
Trluneuliir Inrr-flPd-ift v;u' * irp tnahi
"LjiaL Hi Uin (..ifje iluntura
.
' Mjy 04% h«>Eh t<v

c ^HliuiJ,r ^ L|M. -*.W je r ks-iiu-liri-nr,# |wr iti” \ -Miptp Abri \TlUers.
> i
”
C'rm'l r'j/ h p j ,
wri n Ri$ ShiuU\ la Ut1
i/fw/fft/ To ,1/y / / a*J \ftih
Sqi 4 I
=r full ,im3 rffftlrfltt, I lie Hirrk lijimiE ae£os a frr.rJi breejf in tlar Qjwn -lj Erutmpg mJEsiaos oJ! for m>
d:3nm:HfU L^.iaiU gjid blktdiflni >ilk I ti'irr she wniri htx «. irdrubt uJ u l>IJ lu> thhvia
"ff‘g Xtru' WVVl 1
ffui m Spa, My Ratfi, the tVind C
r
trftt?5 an in S/oic
1
A Iqng iwlÎ hkkn fiie-i «»f \ht LuTdy hull, Shi- e*ls tt> (iViiiil'A njtl. her vsrdi
i
Ji;i!ji2y Id nitiit Lhr
l < >ii c car> Lecuu. Kadiu duectior inscki Etivp apd utlier drrtftraH* ijc’dr cr uwn Ibc miizufl Ltfpnmst,
I — . h
&A flit- National f icograjihlc M aga-zinc

v, i'l‘L
(Suitc it- Every day fitter the rmtfdny try (page 6S3 IF was a sood bilmJqi^ to
ttnistef;, there were even in--, nf all sortjii mait 1
the colarful past and altractivr > "f |
MVrrbaflid, firr -rod t-atfiLldofi drill, soil hoc that fqhirlons land The Eagtr asrtvstfl jusi
f\\\ti]z. putting Uw -lisp abinii. Fur the tir-rt I- i I "ni lei S Strdi - transpnrt w imhmdinp
Time in my tite I 3® w ..ill i.'t5 really id h w i I
the tin! a HMprnitpi of hraining of Jet> for
tp handle a Ut% square-rigger themselves. tuck' l he >| lanish Air Force, ami lucal
mu Iti-r vnd bringing her in* in.cr away streiiimed down thr w.iicr Frdut in efowds
3 hr imts, nuinsjUfl-n inn the plant* iiif the sails which persisteil far inEo the niehi.
Trui.-, the shapely Jwk found ta-rsi-lf j
-i itlle- The hoys servo found that most thing* did
tjmet uoln^ through some odd euntortlriris, Jut usi far into hr tiichl in Spain The I
urvft thpr'r WHS ai i i rn a luck uf precision to Eugk -jtuyt'd ,-donîdtf fur \)w dayi, and life
ihr maneuver-. e^fbf.’vizhlly when grittg uln'mi, iVTL- strenuous.
Uni HCI ns i
1
That wu>Tiot the point. The Plenty

' i
i -f share !en% e, r
Tn lurni. wits the of-
['Ofeil wnv tJsi" radirt® tuerr doing tht iuh rkr to gfye the- buys a chance in see ^ much
doin^ and learning nil the time, as jwîlifh.' nf lht cininEry. \ prograiB of
L'nW’n.irnmefilj; wa- nnraTiged, tours orLrunEzed
NipmFi Vt I untie Lnpcly - -everything but a bullA^lt, and il was nut
* me week [wn weeks, twti and u half weeks the ri^bt season fur that.
passed* We saw remurkrihlv few ships, for Spnlander womferfulh picturesque is u
Lht- fuiylf' sitIt-si lonely load f reflected that placn, Sftali :ii (Itr peasant cabs r^-rveH
htH* day* of power the North
in 3 \ilusilk". at incredibly Uu* hours E trip?, to ihe caves
except for the comparatively few .
summer of Aliurnfm and the pkiunesotie tillage of Sati-
bines, is n\f w than It has ever iêtn tilTanik cfd Mar niiide delightful diversions.
rime the days of (ôlirmbus- V Spiiniah-fpealunf cadd discoursml on rhr
Onct fi-w day-i on! of New \'urk we saw
ii local ladJft the daily pr^sh nn the wmi-
;inr) in
a great Ctmanjer jkiss nn the nnrtbem hori- of

'i rs I be Acnerl^tn hark fiagA anil the ship ,
ion. and the same flay an American freighter wn5 doing a fmr joi« *ef p
lic rljg.
M^jterranf iiiv bound uverfaautal tin- Murk. thmi^h llUit whh not hrt [>ut|Tiufee.
F-w the rest we saw tin nl her ships until off the
shipping Janes tlf Europe. Aiwtem Piiiutiitii.*- Si si I Tlirill
liutthtfr day u liig futir-engEned Ecirffig net made îmc mf ibe e^corszjiii^
f
tm) Fo Al-
Ci.id.-t Ci=uti.l lie patrol -MU df Argnslk. in Lirnini, where undesiE men have left nn:k
New Found find. iTew aerugo .im] spukfc the paintings pflfMajm 1OT0UO yf?ar^ old. bpt stilt
It was The i'ir>i l met I Eaud ever been tm .uni thrilling even nil ih.Li nmn*
spoken by an airplane. It made and rsiTi h But the trip T liked iiest amthjjed injwlf
E
p
dipped ft- v, mgs in &jJtile jincl passed uti + tukmg four cade ors a Trip around SoJttrtUfef.
rhr n'h'l- Inukcd up with Inters, -i mie of
»
Tht: city k a n .ilTnictive sajfnrner resort with
them, a good many of therm would be much b^ st'«
k
\Ve vteltcd l he old fed ring vjlltgi-.
fnr rUiird needs airmen n$ \\i?W tta
lie t iâsi
i I
when. 1,
[JiL- W LittU'n wrt mending l Lsr nsrt^ while
saiWs. the children played anil l he fEshmoeu iipj>E T
On Sunday* there was church, hr Id nil ds-ck inr obey would be ttway all night.
if the weitber marie \i pt^mlile. and .ihvays ben wr made .in pn^chetlnled call at the
E
three: semeef — Episcopalian, Rumun 'llUi- i

royal palace at Santander^ the hugr summer
wli'c, and Jewish- Service wm kd by the rradrnof of former Spanish kinis \uw u
I
mys riieiffiwfvcs. and ihon^h it wa.* npt iinn- l£ used at a mmxim unii-ersiEy. l.iti when we
pdbuty to .itEenrl. he tttlcndoace? were in- I
arrived il w\i5 being lefurbisbed. The Wry*
vai-i.ilil wllent- They w'err
i
lr.ir;- .i •« -il i
iirtd had a great look around,
I
lirim? Wl, bath hays and aolistefl liven and ) Wr *>-i w amoni. mats} nthrr treasures 0
ili'n think any missed utie uf the inm'kts
‘1
heap Ei fill fil.iFut-Eer trig hi of [he Ihvn-rvk'r^
f page 10), muther whsdi kuiked renurkably like Britan $ 1
Life it sea wns fnlf. diverse, and always in- young Queen Elmbrth. Paintinus of the
Ivn’-tijit!, and the !
J 0 dtrys under 5m] jet weep ! Spaiush and related vnxul famhlds hung on
Xt".k | .iirtc ijii .ind ihr HiLrance III (be harbor (Cfi'ittmitid on png? 7 E
1
at Santiuider pus&tl ^nfckfe Indet-d.

SflcQtiiiu.ler w;is the first ^linipse rmÊ of the Sw Cue. Cradle* nf ^n,"
1
by
Xn 1 1 Nrei r aitctiH , Nat u*xm. Gr K-k.wutr 1
aipA/jne..
i
uni nr cudet^ had hflil of nn, Eunj^-eun coun- IXa'IsUlCJ. l'J4rt.
+ "OJ All fhr Lim't j F'Vfr LrJ t
+ rt
/ frf vVi'/i-jr Ffmtf M CW.J f# MiTjp
A -SfttU ?'.* Lift Ui-, Str*
h
fjf /WAi'* Ww iiWr/r •> .t#
-
CAfm ,p
Thu
fjn
iUc rafl.T. pallftfW Id
will tHiTV the Otilhr ihip a
UlWW up
flf
the ptllmM framt brafrlt thr forwJinl hawk, tiny

W
nri nrfsifi W^-StAK*
SWveJ ] Ll_!
1 «i
>~fiuni! drtjiwifci^rrrMn
r"
I
limU w.fh IhtitmmI*- jihnk-
MJIUMiniali^' I'ni'delj UF 5Q< ito»RRii|£ ll -ij il.
pnetier "îF.Ki[jn-k the asm, bul thr IrtErhiltnl (SUV*

He |
I
ttisk-t tiit pcrtfpci. sunuinE uml F£*dla|G perch s"uf iiiff- put bint tu ilnp luiErucJ-, uni b hu wilujftl stuyi hi lt£
rJuty cudfL?. ^h^pbMl) ruuUtif lav** tfalg ScLiubt lime. Em9ic Knricaslir raj.r>Un'> htffvy Um\ iUa!v 4-1 ns hi
7'
Fl
“/’ftrfj Hititx 1
} r fl'/iif/' H'i WVjfrnfy JJfow
VV lih ynirii |qt]|^ wiidi for Spurn before A dead F.ilr hiwfe.
MItshm tha »t£u3ylBE Influence nl mn*i fit htf ÎViaQl, rulfi 4 I tit. 'I h*
rr«w ran down ihr i"a re n-1 li'irrt bflapiiM! thuy were (Joins no wur]t In ihf,
- i
ijilni ln-w u! 1?!e ie jnuii! acLtU.

i
Scu. wnicr, nut dirt, track? tjj* itmln ij» k
jp. v, Ilnur n-fTi

i
[. hi* Uml.iliiinuKi lii Aim %' 19! Inn-
Wi
+ *T kt Suitor LtfU
with /ii.T .\tinrf st Liar"
I'jijsik* Fiitl ^ either
Ko ratilf uJ I'l'^rl y-r than*
ilr Ml l .lljli^ i îjV :l *. (flilrUCL
tiw J OilrJ l !. Ifl wjlliJjliS.
mi r Iujll'u lllê , «iw ’[-jidv wind
M
till* ‘"jpLLt Lb-. *lllL IrJ >Jnep, Lilld
on ft day liki i hi* [ly-inE Ikh

*o±r from warm >t-uv
t udi:td at nrii; Hike praetke
;" *
ran i-j.
I'.vm other? make
new rniiiiH‘ 1, -be “runî '
In u
saom: ship':- rimzinu

11
nJiJcrs,
Anchor, drain, and fQBWtk

hill? fljkDW ! 111 n-nihl p.imi.
4
TU T**s Her 'Cmt +
Hsttto'v Sktpptr
-
Ai an \ n«!ern% cutkt, C-ipl
Call G. Flowman first IraEm
the MJMrr-flfi^ r nrt in I
It fntf-
rticr Ctifl-si Guard lral«Er» UnrL>.

f -niitir Alr-u$mdrt El-
euftimiwlH l&tjfir fur fnur

ywi, i;i ri-.^haLri'.l tlLal w-gul
with EL'zuiur >IuLy u heml •/•I' [lit
A-odr jqy'i uniinikLp ^cJumiIh

Eltri: he Jim&ji hi-:.k iLke J niu:
I'iiul J liihLH in j n idd Navy Hart-

ca-ik =nnii. al the “hip'L vi-tidi
and dlv’rv track' on the- ten.

_ 1
"And I'ati'i Lr ^
W £ Vifin'i tv Alt*
4 l‘j\['i at Siintumjer
Sj i,i lei i hUtark ncith ix-okl

|jhlu t |>j a v LikJ a
usitudur- nz. La.
^ 1 1 iih |n Europe ior ihe ^ttitrr-

lii-L.t h Atluntk Snl^'UrVJUi'r.?
Rf LTcjiuor uriii =-i.idit “id’MJfl
luuniJa proi-nl teBlftfl ttMiuwi
than to.ir nl km
L i_r 1 ri .1 |i^?1 y n,thJiJd
in nftum i-b-n iKhapitjifclk.--.
ClnLrr H.-p[VC ATit. I t low I ei-

llialniim nJjriniT td 1 rn,vrr>-
luired gust. atfMI'Erij cuuld tdn-

t m dirt ihc sailer uf old ivtiri
M
.inc. "Sjjunbb L yc> i4 rc Hi HI J-
1 *
injL
+ Simliintler cIliEmi Asawii JL
-
rLbruvctrr biid In il mrft iti In-,
arw; E&fv tudri* iuut a irar -

mnt flfcliEf vhil Itor ^nIileuIiLj-
mr&a&tliil i p -nbi t Eel îLQticndLT^
r> . 1 Jxi . i nl T.kdiic _jhSl*iu_ A
1
.j l't-jetI ,1
r
mzi ul uii titoJ nkitri-
_
Tji_r ni • <?rri| i-.- in hnnsk sij«
-Land.- I.hl'î iipi tor 1
1 I
pgp.
. S^ll^Dhl «L^j.fa_I.I, f- <11 ?,
&r. li.-l.j- lm < Vi .11,1!. V 1 1! IJTJ Ihrl

| UIHIfeihifc. btHTl illJ, 1 4
tiS
1 i -
'
•«
WkvM tf* W'Afl A If CftmrTWttff$* i
PPF
. Mr
.
Shatf 6'fpp Jl .
Sunday in Pure
+
f FjîV 5 i :trk4 foil hi qJJy intended thrir thflfrp nf
inrec rrliiLSiÛi ;-t rVte&i, htLd on tier's ivhi -i Cymlbw
prrmimiJ
4- L cider a -dii-isml comhinalicrtu o\ u'rd-UEimfltd
rAhFfck iwHil -jailing Eaf*k m.vtl* hffr hfccinfv fully
îdhEtf 1 ! unly Jn the ruuL'Iii'El falhyuiiic wa*- Thfcfl
hpr mjihiigjiny lrhEcEicim kirk i&.i‘ tia ; - ct, unii brim
tnr.n guilt brbwu uj. well uj f-jcfUrlcHee,
Hi 1
! ilw huni ent^rj < • » n i'i M wdtfW- An otticKr
mftlM ihf «hip from Lwtiiirjf (hr cnmpHi- Cidet

Mikri “in hciKtsel i rda.vn wflul f hj m InokiHJiH
"T"** Fiji* 1
Shr Jl a vr* wr t*f
rm
+
(lndtt'f Swjmi Up the Mfeltnmiijil
AiriLLitly, ihr kirk wftrn brr coUm at iht ffifcfcren
mff fM'ak wbiit urn Jit âv + it here. Cu minis tu

dn*k mr mJhht, s-h: -hlFt- Lta- titskpv to Ihr flztjp
dn.fi nt the laifriiEl,
L'n.rkt^ wtpr bru i-nitrini: rl , Kfrcftk

. ins on the sirel Mil and pcwcrtul fcuctfwdliiv of
"
hull hum,' form iWFl nf #11^ "i mrxlerfl rqulpmnt,
iv s„-.:.nal irhi.ru; !i li
1
>.« lacr
FL i hi ki 1 1 1 1 1 Li H I lup AliP. V HI I»i-1 ih*E ^tiJllllllI 0»HEr*Jili 1 i.
MuiidwiijibfTi iwtm H P^LriiH iflHaflNLE. Il^*i i*l

ILUUfCt If itfiim li'Hl iP
*1
1
X- . J
«
IL JjV^ jfl IIp/^

b'
i
JJtfi
jfa
j
JBK
J "
L ?WPT i
a™TOf
HbjP j JT ,JP K9 J .
* . -/ ,
1
- ;j^jH
'B i hJ
- r
m
1
^D 4 1
j
'
—-î H
nl
1
II
r
| |
M
-t JS
1 l ! J
l
:
mJrr Canvas in the. Atomic Ajjc 73
walk with painting of oT<l battleships

hi? the Xethprlnndsj ujkI lie §]iip wa> entering
^
I I
mid y;n: - ATf^n^n Xl\ l w&3:P keen sailor L li 1 i ejip n-hini; [n>ri uf IJimitifcti. which il" i-
DipftS.lrlr^, urninated addresses which ; 1 1 1 1 i II way iatij iJjt- \'^riJi >h%l t 'll ell i I cnihwIjiju wuh
bail oiu'c bi-rh jimitrUy offered to and is \mstiffdalii p
\\ V niolorerl lhr-re for ihe C40wl
proud Ey by fmrm-r king*. Huge mrruw and fuEl of »hrp^. and "hr burger
ChEm^ vase* ut fabulous worth .-elrkE in stream ultra £ liku laden lrai:k> mi iljr I'pniiiy!
spacious c-amt:m« wnin rurripiki%

Many nf them were sip deeply LuEen lSuit
Sjfl Set E'>r Amsterdam the wLudi from o.ir (m-ltig df but thnfttisnH
t'asilus ant! side trip*- in hospitable Spain fu nvcrwhrlm Ihrtn, hut the huith rmt.il men
werr knew: what they vttie ul.
were wuidfirful, hut to the £ujf#t iliey
tviily Off sht‘ stiknl au-dn bound

flis'et'sfliiEu.
Tluy u;p.vi .' berth in Liie tseart of Am- B
,i
Eirtu'S t hs" Bay "f Biscay und up ihr English

sterdam, and iht' Etftftt her hmg bnw-
i tuirmel for Amrtefdttni \uofn the sta -pril mnoTiiic The freo rs llh her jib houm uvtr-
hangiiiK tin- w.Lrrr-fmni rood is dippers
rile
routine seE tied d > a Astern the .
uruv rpwdi-d nil N'ew S'urk'.^ South

folli werj with 3 fresh tot of upperck^mcn*
i
.ilrmu'
at Santander Slrw ! (page 1

79b Aâtn sJu- plru?.fiiil buspE
Fht 1
rump utfm^ luy wa_< interesting l
laljry, the the murs. Ehe trip?*- the (ark
w^- scarcely oJrmgsJdn before a yuuni naval
anil by no meam difakuk. J- we were 5pirrf r
the rni ditto mil Biscay storms. Little French ifbfc.tT iva.T ul-mant Wftlfonnc u> ami rn hand * r '
h :iiiiL i
-ii . := l k- and jrr \

m
«" ^;m 'iit-- n‘S'1-
"lit iu r tbr eniertainment jjI i n-
t m oil curious Hags, and smutty

tanker- tlylru?
couipnjites of I.Mjih Hie and tht
Hide coasters vied with tfudi (0 salute per

iht! Acti'lifuz -hip. unit ihs Stars- and Siri(iy:* Wliiil a program" There were vish^. em
d uttered in uoud brifiSIws a El ui-n tss itir bay . duuhoEid ctittm for i& ^ which Amsterdiim
we lami'il ). rrip^ by sight-sei-iiia itmEfarUmi,, irij^
And through tlw <. tumne) fUimd in clcê
h _v buviTs dlrfx and a cadet from MlffrlgflTl
to H Elvers tn a am! SpakrtiburK and Markn
tt&ftd me why they weren't white and Vuk'MTnm, and to thee-i markets and 1
'
+t
Sni w ui E e? '
1 i&krd . ' They iv h Ur dower nuu keti?-
"They look n might;, dirty white to me.'
S d ;’i i r * Try Botti aiul c> £_ Lc-^
said my yijudjz: shipmate who isuiim have ex-
pearled the dilFs of h *ver to he whitewashed The d'iiIi'In, having just come in from 3ea +
ir; ike -ûrimiLT TTwrartts' elected safbrlike to Like the mumLlbr-lvir-
th\ i i U w hE win Sands itr:i r In a tiinfc line buf 1 rip- iti rublHTr-ourkmis latmche.i tlrsi
uE lilt? twisted ma5l? i.if wTf.cked steamers "lltese boat? were j it ted up like luxury Iill-i-
ill! I • m j dif jumtU of Lhe hnzard-< nf tin- am were I

» bi^ il Wits A mltude they ever
recent wax stud km, of r Sir ri^ks of N urth Lh track'd ii way thmuiili the citv > cjiiuiIh
Si .i mill nummd navigation Theft the tEtfo lltrir >kd|fuJ litdinMinefT baeknrl and eds^ d
met 1
uiul i hr gales roar lint I
a dtipffifrdrF imthl them ^)nwh a king amid the glurfnus oilnt of 1
-
know precisely wticre he is at llJE tintis, k-d the Bower marts ur amung the -.r.m- Li hofiiH
his ship strike a IjaJife nmi stay there- iif n onffc-ritlt Amsterdohi Whose nierrhanbt
[ ssiw Lr t nsndr. Robert l lark ! hr
1
rrivr P- and seamen broujrht -Ji'tut profit lmnir from

pateur, take a r Ea.-> so the aide of the rpnrter- the Ea^t
ihn?k umd p' uni mil the wn'dv-. with sundry Tlw R!jk- Mwfttmi wish Its tilftrinmi Rem-
remark- appropriate to the uu.asiun- bmndis vea - \T5ited ton, am) there wjh; tlnu-
SrMih then wt picked lip he low culist uf I fi if a L, .,11 grime u 1 Hu 1
.Sr hinkr]-*] h irtSenem.
And nuicy of the cadets hired bicycles mid
i'jffi- fl iw the hinTerLiful of r^raûnt ffotkind
f/flitjfi Vu'/xf w hhJ .Vi-y, fEiunrf time, Uap. In- rrhake a run tn darken,
t
"
ititdS j/f' .uJifi- /lrit-5 1

JnM r.'.(. ,V/r/ where h«.- locaf pH^plt die^ us tradMojuil
i
1
Mr.n n fj Line rnalti i jUi! MVerhMd TauatlEniffl iUiiJ k'rdi •ceatLiniif^ and the Uuy hoys and the tSoy prh
lines m 1
fHklnrfolrqs"
1
lunkii P liwWHJdj tita a fUjiny iii>
ul 1 sullen j’Lh'i'* niTiii n Inp-Ji! &n
ieii. ei'fJiiii ' ifiu.tfi
* Sc-r. in Itu- QEajiUupnir M ui^hi
dttEi y-ml^r.t ^ri>up tuiikc- lu^srvwn'niik mt u I -M ilrljiiny MolUail kchuii-i Her Lonil," 1
by (xlltmt M,
i < Bi'iNiEim iiiri nji [lit' - • mil Hlul il tifebiiat
>
1
1 i
|
tJrOffVfeunt ind Charles N'.’-iu-r . iitfitisntlifii, I'JA*
Httnc> in ii-T linvhi Triidy \m i trill "Mid- 1 isnl’ir;, liolErtficl IStnltb ll.r butiu. " by hi-yd
f Vi I I I j l»
-f
I ! Il.l "r r rijp |». itrii l.| I4M I_1H UMi !i
r
.'.lil+~b nvi Ojirk Liedflibcr. 1 Si I'D.
1 1
ires* alflw* or at least #D imirli

Mu It.ii they are iiidaînûudmhte
i
to *1 ran eers ^SV [pH|tr

H wa* pxtraonlj ciary how quickly
time Hew sit these way ride sOups,
,mr| ll|i- five ays al Amsterdam rl
priced in flbsh Ami cHfii uff .1
thhMJgh the North Sea

where the school vhitiiprn
(."drill
rterttl file American ship ami

out tutn (he North se,i thelf
I tert wa.% a week ai !>ra be-
twreu Irtstenhim am I < oivnhdicea.
the next pari jlh . I ihe made
e«np[| ii^r of It lie iSpegfif hss mi
M. Vi • :
1
* k.-- l Lik:- is. anil the
cMtririihim Mti ihesfl Ewijvrtui
cruljMsa is ^triiih practical The
lads have iinie-enouich its the rli.xs-
n KHiLS- when they :ire j! the Acad-

emy In (lie /'7iv/;/i' they kvirncd by
I m n«. , first, aiirl lbeci hr supervis-
ing the rlminu
U
blew and muid a hit in the
North Sen. of course, Ti always i
fbei* l ilt tii! hark IstMC tin way, I

1
-
Thm that Criînjt pwid ore never

to >me tMulistyeil near the mine
field* oil the lJutrh ut?* i Danish
i Qntc we sighted the oid
usi^L^. i.
m| \urway Wiift it huit nf little

finhinp cra/t and tiny ciriifiers
A rajdtln> i|ostrtH*. rmm mrr-
i
b' i, ini untl all (he ire drilh were

exiTCisriJ. ii>.3 ui.Ll.ler what Lite
wo Mult m where the ship ifii^hl

he. Kvfi \ weekday a l -t.i these
r I rills wvtiI on uritd aH hands hi*-
cjimv near pnrh-ct* bill ttefl;
i I ways tnrjfe to learn .
II time tlfw past iu jiinrt, it aim

v- r . i
1
y :i 5Ufi Sr v. wi w* -i«
!
'
! i I; I
a [ i-prr kj^ kifi p the u at l- r * ween

hr* \
I Jrrinvirk a in I
^Weilefl Thine sm 1
still war mlijes there, and -1 m ps

must kc-ej • riufrlly Eu swej.it than-
pin h and take no chant e*. Relue-
l.bnLly iherrfnfr, the sail- weic -se-
ind Elmer the

ureil. little-tisffl
diesel. pm tn wurk.
7^ V • Ijt.l IImi-fiI III*.
Kttil iltkii Klcjllll NhhJ in l^tnî-in^

fill rtiL \\ iiidy I !•:!*! of tLunijie-
NftlrlflS 1 'insl aMtT he[ eantwîril

lUisujg^ Etiftlf Il!I hci y. aihi ’huuifciju!
mil'v* rrsaiivupik-rfc. Atmn»i invji riiily,
st-.'inirra i .in d <.!.«: la vk\i ihr knciy
r
^^lELcti* -iEri
|
-<
inr flu -
h rar calrjfi in 4 lute;
n r n— r*
It, 1 lie N stirmal i

leujrrfiphk May* a /Inc
We BUrtiraf !hr«wh the natttowmi! waters bail .1 <iy;3il Schedule lo ki^-|j lu êl ti.ick to
i if the richly historical ;mimj * ml framtl Lnmlon in lime to make the Bermuda
Ni'Vh
lUBT^'lvv- n riTliiu tbs I
V;m .mil nlli ennse. Oner man* she was through fur the
port uf wnnHurfuJ i upenhaên, the "hip:L t i m !'
hefiift, wrlh in ri i w i_v pine i?s w i l h si ra rugi-
WCte given
splat in
MwrmiiiJ
town,
from
li>
Xear
i - 4
Mi iris
1 the LiTm-limr. the f«t
by, (fife itaiue uf ftf Jltik-
Citri c urn Andersen's
îmillng tutnB
London
by line northern cuurse
nil of
Krnrn
5,fi00 tiaiuiiial
:;hr
4 'npenltujeai tn
was to Like.
mile.v, ™
Xew
fumed i.i i
-
talc turned (sec gentle gaae to sep*

iutd tra?4lntd tnd ii iiir*liain-ili - « ir;n 1
*
1 1
streets Tin: ViLinii RfHjiL for I lun^
let! tmvard the pleasant city (page SI) mi ^hatt on srheihilr, ru 10
hi ti;ui to go; 1
More trips, mure g^hl-wbtg* mint ibuu- f

D clock nn a Mondily morning, her lines were
and L-hterftll hotolt
Luti
¥
zlKu
# filled the elites, Taken In mt\ -hr headed inr lie imfuy I
Dines visited the- ships, pjir I 1 hi- ships omt- the Spimfeer So swin\i her short Jn the harbor
PWtllS vkrftcd the Dunes, The high light nf Off Eliincrrb thr 1 1 J I rigêf Niice
Out Trips wjL‘- Lu Ih l\ vi-il in tk-in-nr fHe I- j
Shi well known li r. X^w London herself . was

iingftfN, wht'fe Hamlet '*
vjiM h la in br found*
1
met under gfffl, nr id the tp -a pj ;«
-
rt - r j tqj l b
i
We went to KI.hliiiji-is. uf t«inrr,i\ ,itid wr preî filed i ulririmi? -ighs sailing I'i^'eIut
visited n score of rmeresl ina places. Hut the whiii j
bark and wliiij.- h* ran' a
lull-rigger^
rain drove us ihi? murine museum ;0 sight Uoê in rl;u>. This wan n cbecnniz
K-n > ill n iiy
(
" ihl li . ant I we wi re d Ifgh t 1
i-.
H Bn rnteriudt. mri the caAtl'. nn iht Engirt were
note its wide field nf intern f XidriA ...urA uliLif l>f the ellilSILT EM show ibcEt fftlUpg -kill
f teki ted at SOI fer fill ’ill li of oli I 1 > ,
1 i
isil Humm: liiest vrlrraiis^ They diri sill riuht
merchantmen and training sh^W ltke
l
the Ahead Mum nUvU h Mr | i|n> long gray -r n
Htllr fulkriKtfprf ishtp €tg#rg Sftffr, and lbc= road flufcjtop towaid New Loudmn, for, tiiougb
Fabidnu> ilvrm^tier which bftd ibe liark miifht ;w.y±ilrw by keland and the
jjunr mt t rrigi rally misritig with uJ( hands. t ij] nf Citwidanrh tf was not intended to go
[n itnywhert uuLi! tJie htmw port was racked
St.ja Tragedy lmprt<’ips f.auLt*
he rnub’ slut sn ili'il um- eIl.H eHh Vikmgi
J
I =.:lw QideJ David r'Lir,u:;ni from RltS- toiik when they sailed truvard tirrcpland and
mtuul with astonished nd-

\ iruinia, gamine ;ded Vinlijiid.
:. h.i-l wimb bTow tliere —
mimtJnri at the rondel nf the hig hvt-msirfw, sumeiimes. Bit i thi?v
“
were lament a Mv abwm
Ew
i
tii .1 End fre-h ashore ftom the Eojfc thU year t ji\d the hnd n long j>Esnch
dfe wili an Impress] vr Tuht. humit.
h i
d-.U si. .
'
hi 1
1 L-' i mis-iinM??
1
U. sl
-’> i
Despite that, rlu’ wm in a thy ahead of
“Did shi- jmi Eet swalfowcd up in the sttl schedule. At lO u.m. on Friday ihts UsJj of
But she an engine, iind she bad radio.
hiu] August 5 hi 1
dnippefl mhor
ago in in New
Anri she Inert* strung enough take a stripe m and ln-r
Liftdnn. cadets were hark from a
at the Horn TtwJfT memorable and diarautif-Siiimiiig cruise,
,r
Ye5 T she's missing, right eaiwigh, the imL- Voyrtg l-"or^|u|s>:ll and ThofE^n and \isd-ni
-eirm'V dthMTtor said. 'Why? Cud knows:. Und Tuna mi r and all the cbeE:rhi9 n-sl flicked
E'' i
She was the Fiest soiling ship m all thr world back on thi- voyage wish feelings of pride,
when -In- -.-di 1
1 irrun Montevideo one dav
a
mil with -rime regret, t^-. f- >: a- up:?iTfki^
in IK. took her juj>i thr same,
Ip ui the m'll cneu. this would ht- their latfL They hurTihd
Anri nothing whatever ha- lirrn seen «>r heard off for slic-ir WE'll-f.imtfl fravt 1
kiniuing thev
of be* since* had tuned m an adviinitire iliaS was veiv
Cndct rliinago.n nhi mk head, und the mm h wtirLji while.
other cudets and enlisted men anti officers The shapely bark Jmd cuinribwUfl >nme-
hrnkn] hi i hi
j
miiilri tif the -iuperii hvr-riuiHer, thing i ruled :ih hie and without price sn t h :
i
wl 'in.lt1 ring. yuuriE fives — some thing. j^rhvpM nmre than

J'lu 1
live days a i Dqwsfia^n weal -i
:
..v n they knewr. ômetbft^ which wutllH be- Flip
PEioMTip dr;rgwiLtc3t- The Gidcts sh Lipped, and with them nhvavs. lu their infinite cnridmipnt
they visited the gardens, of lise Tivoli, tin' i Lii'd tJte Nrdinn’s tocii
kiTmni- mmiHemenl ixirk. and ihey made * Suuv in tM« ItfATÂr. GruLOintn MAr„ur.rKr
u
fnii-tls— friend.v. friends rvery where, Eû BjlUIc Cruiw «pf liie £arlbb£&™ h y L'ujJrhm
n ii in L lit
9
time liimr lij

NftVflUihfir. 1^ .m J ''JjXHn S-litrs TUfitUpicb
1
bumped
4Uiii-.i Kiniiit^crL,'' hy Wylk tLolemUni, Ke L» -
h wns the t9th of July, and the Ea&te Iru^J'V 1 94^.
C NidJeuJ SUupnjjfilr 77 H~HTllf--TTin It "illmial fl-irrTM"
1
l'l"
l
*nt l
"rt~Tiil!im P 1 ft
— "
*« -Mr o rittil I’/.-BJi- jj ri / jjf fttiitA SkifrPi'r* I f.ttf : Mil \11llmr (j.liiih »h Tali C i(4.p>rîtk kin Will Jill
PiuEitmp on cabin *
ih-t
1
juhM
bulLlnm.i| shnw* £*#1* v. pr hi ,l r ort&iBttl 1 GtnM?: doublf *pankrr Hit FhII-HkcihI |k£p
mi :Lh-- -mil Ihf (uQc£ Li Li! ;. Uir Uiniih Iraining veiarl /Jui RWjd'J
1
. L!el' ivjlf WiiiîL LJsr Csml ûjiiL Audi iir
<
0 J'lllrmyl ». -liCij nir HLÎf HL-"!=-.."t -n Iir A!j: VIJIljan
+ "
' J- •nW tW / (Wjf rf nds t

, A Uy Jukm* '
+ *Q* n
the Lmdk* Of the Tv&n, Hitt"
Yimk-cc Lud Mwis ll Mnrlfcn travnih SpakqnburU Tîts I-ind rinilHgnaplH Grim
CaJI I at
Kuarrini lanns and viUuizm a*
Ajjnfterdflni, Ed i.lliSi
giac-tLi
i IhimtmJ
nf Itulrh
ili.tr-
(ItimH
- On!y
ins-ii ilj
the
«
IllJ
uitinci
wtu* U 4 )lffB
V ! lii
r
ci
L'hihl
dvraci-i
irnf.
M iftBAppcilJflj[ ,
vRfl Qw ftciyjJ Ni'liiLTliirrdi Savy. Thin Anitry.Kn vj&T ^Lik? i Llipfu Joilu Ni-w SaaEh StrcHt In dm
let ih t i nrw -hnulcd bny i nrh nH tîuiEE thlU *n.i' m sail, in Imtidjiy hrr bu^spril
lEerJi w<,'UI aUrii Crfi MiLrkcn tsirinti. tfvrt Aiiiiiriil.ini tmEik. Net L- Jx>r JikLy j|
t f.
L W
1 V
<• "77/r A'j'ifjri ,7
JLê I my
I itf n fk4 u
i
it h
,1 1 fill fr a
i
Slugi !o Windtwd
«
'u \hi- North Irini. pa.-.-azt srrnn \m hlat-
ifam ti> CopnaliiiiVELi fchirc iuak, duiL-
nii£ in fn^h bcivd winds.. i
.iprniji Itow-
m.ni ;J* : Luwd ihr upper tftityuJls, a r-'L u-n-
Waxd huffed thtnUith Imrt. deep

she
SClLi Fitf 4 Li]^ Wrhkh
lint with (1'it wind uliilfl ithii icarn, 3
lipiii[i ?ii u iJiihf-u-l^ttl v cIum jnpâ tft ill*
iUrtdinn th| '.vinrj,

^ PiUi fi iiEH tin trL^riru in tiue old iia.y -»
wure ii.iaiUy Liinwd by hrul gpai. J£a$\

CflliuUi it} jet I dime lilt L:> 1 Uc' MIL, lium-
ftqtirmte qevt fcjmr whv their c
_ hip ha=
never hud. j acrioiu bmdnil in .tmerican
HJVii'r: they rhtclt vnil r«iriLru5>c-ij
* ff*»P
Rdt <itut Kvl*
Ttfto Mlh I Inlet Mar True
TV wtifltbrr feelinirtiiti [rinbl]

her obey hr wauh^4. ntfKlifFnfiyiiiflOJfl-
\\{\p% rr|Minttf twhlflf] Lhi: ffkn rn j |j j hiimatif,
l,i£ hrlfinn:jii lend-* hi- 1 es aiiîtL when
nectary. OtbiJf turfet* (b^ckînrt)
fl :dj liliuJ. i'i d^nak tu jtartaiuiE> fmhEnj;
b Lilian aex iLaitKiari] quart t'r.
PjiLi! 1C1, fawirl’: To xquiTe Coast Giianl
r-X'CdJuiD in bmxtl lacyn.1^ i nikla lirtcE 't^-
1
qoenL cStuli a! sea. ThJi htvit prepares L .

mal Iftm.K* insm ILdjrfr.
h —
f* v ’
£l*>i£rtlAUii fttelafcp
j
1
Itiirurfeimpf tir Ainu VIII1nrf , J . flKhiir

|l'p|K«il«. I'!'' M 41i;J fJ 4i 1'avmlili
.
livi LihImI
SE
C 1 It *
.
lVT '
**
A
C rrujiijiur -ir u?MLiim' - lap

B2
t mt <?* -Vo Nvrr + "7 fh if .fff/jf LA L-
mth V*u. Fair .VW" ft* Pirrt#^ /M
On CflptnliaiijHs'i wtia fiuu £
’Jsa- Vi< - FMiiJ'i Imi^ -m wbUr 4 liftikt In 4 fchmmwain'f chair
hen' "Liiil. MtfBukT in shigmi |im sea.v rt4. HiMcbsi Uii paihUVitfk ztisin.cd fry iinrhor chain tuxr
L
L *ioi
3
n L '
+ “ft' hut titrl IS ni I-GftfM F&p U*'rry Tart

'
--In* Tttrtrd, fitft ff'nrji- T IS rj flgr

'
l
fe
nl M il 'f-. luisliLti'JL Hi l^ftdllLLifiUdsen,
ta
1
' 1
1
1 Mr A LJvrTrH>nl uaikul flayer EkiMfU t\ snu^r M»r
hiL^rti't- in’hn'id imrl csrcrulty Em-ikd Tniire Squim*." Eurl linn EitftSf ihflW .duUJ I’M' Inrtird 1 . 1 r l u;
1
11 js e l- in
\ pLil'l 1
!! jilacrl i‘HT3p]si ,
c dkker* with potttltiaJ cyanirncn L'ii^nJaJiji'Jl. kA'tuy anil • lijjiis |ia |h> wiluml \nn\
fn iht faarbirrmnLi. Mu | jnni-Si cc liflirrter Lrn Lz-
I
he I tvkEirriil n crinkle RAc £4 ^ J y beftli 1 ;l*Ii 1 n, îtcir'E
bn% -HuJ
IB cftttfttcfttr: ‘be ii tfW Am-, rkaj* in I3t fttrtatrk hrt^r^pdi with the -lam'd jiuk Byui^ a!hwki tivi-|-FiA!U£*
T
fin V J l :j I ir-n ft TkiH;d? yield
.
c >'«l IiiIiuL CJ I nTii.llH 1

r
,
i"!*lT KI "-In h) nliii ||« tfilJnllil «'<!.(,! j^lh 3"!. J- l I Ljilufl HidHTt r_ JMiliill
"I hr I* i How* JWf r thv It HfaWi it* i/j JfArfr/ //dttw <jpp*/ fiV'"
AlOfli: rh* Sj*i\ F,h-biiil Him uScm-r sgllift-. home lôia. Kw feu^r *uO writi? 3Jr, L.lit .ttajiciy
l -S
Un.i- fc. Li..:
|
|irtiviiU^ an .'iLATUrtr.t 1 tuSi'ficui Li«!e? nml witEntSdi ranee t saincLbine: which irmrld he witli tbsm ahrtV*
1 1 I 1 .
In tlie Gardens of Olympus

Rain Forests. Gl&defSi and Flmver-muJUkil Mtttduvv^ Intrigue u
Y'afiUi lining Family in One of America's Wildest National Farfcs
Ih l*\i l A- Z wil
m
H iih f t fu j I fill io* m from Phfti&ympln by- stir Jmhtrr
snowhalL cum- wfrb&lng pant my
A M'.'
T
htfai
liiu llIi
-I
l
1
sull'-wed by
c-
r_
1-'
|
.L
p£:tl n children^
Happy Fotifth uf July*
UUTfV |r
ji
VlliLJ',” L>
1
T lowered
hrati-d die
1
T i-
l"Mjmf liy
The
snow
ddhtafti
i'll-Ms.
FouHh
nmt •.Hu not
nf July Qp-rrini: in
and their moll^r was sf:- II-
Lbe panorama. My ow:i eyes caji
as they s*le-
Olvm-
my binocular uni I vow It I at ihe scarce af LihotET I'lir lather quarry. U'r liatl made ihr
l hr saom fireworks, aaceni priuiEieih to locate and nvamiaii i|it
Thh w:i> Indeed the Fourth of j liJ

y t hut wilrl- lluwer nu MdiM? fur which the huih cimif]-
wfcii ( different irt i#f ] Day iry hr Myrnplc iVniustim i*
hf i f
from that uf radii iun’ Thai mumitiiz my t According th fill predictltiiis, ihe gtotfegs cut
wife and and our two children. Mda. fj. and
E Etii Ir-l-iiah I lurricanr r^houtrl ntiw in
Fail). fad Ith otir nn in YftBtfwojtOT
J, i I "if \y July have hem apetow with Iujiiiiu.t. l^L.i-
T am] bad turned off ihe

Stares Elwha Valiev der lilies, Indian painibru^hrs. But the m\]\
mmn Mail where it -ikti amiwrd be trail lo I ^fow i'l-ime fmrn ihe while stuff under our
Hurra. uu Rhlp \ dixzyin^ drive feel (page ftfiK
up the mounts iodide- amimrl hairpin tun'es.
alone harrowing drofMstfs, had bronchi u> (mm Sprirul EinTHJS Lute
y v;i Mt-y lliiEir HevatuMi nt less than .iQO feet
lo ciur preseat altitude of more Hum 5.000
J
TlYa kte spring fills jhm '
|.mrk iiitffprF
J|
ties in Port Mititdes had told me, imc1 much
Wr, had tbruo^h jin afrit of thfnnlng rrf 1 Sir- hiuh diuntn t> $tHI under snow Hue
limber tuier^rdig at last an optfn T sky- in hi n li-w dnSTr i
fi
Mkn we+ither and Lite lln^rn
iGLicbinr world of dueling white. The ah will fjop uni tjtuMuh they had sprifijp undtT
hud grown tiplil arm! biting and ai la_-t when them
Lite 1 md became too slippery am J e he snow Weil we hail hud ihn^t] Few days «d warm
tnu i Wr had parked arid hiked li> iffe cvrallier. So where êfe the wild flowers-'
crest iif the ridge. My wife, who had back U\ the air fnr
JJejow ll* m3 w Liy a comply of steqiEy e\ira ai, L :.- i. solved the tlikniimii 1 liemtl
walled, densely forested ravins^ nearly ;i im\v Jit-r should ami satw her pnl nrinc Enpofly down
deep ihmugh one of them ihr Klwha Riyrr the There around Ihe fldi'es
in.mriEiiuuiiLlt^
i;vi ‘'L'-ldrrl j*H4t mil Valley of n WUmiinff snow patchy wfe sprinkling g| a,
Beyoud their cotitMUrnJ pif^s towered a goldt'O dots.

inohnitiiiu range the tike of which cine would SkkUing nod îMfckg river ihr snowy mdim-
expect to see from u Bwis& l'.Lue f \ jgrral c ,
1VC MKUlt! 1
1
Li I' W.kV down .i 'll! i
!
'.
1.1 LM Jh iriln
arc uf :>now tapped peak* saw-toothed £L> way the mirJss m
rhmi^tnds of jtlacli rlETEe: noddLnu
.htii>- the world s wriiarn .mil -*iy thmi, jicnin- (heir broshfed Lzck yrlluw heads dose to Mir
eter; the teaks ifettficd ruse eitnu^h cn luutik iEiek->oakcd siFme
|
up turf, [itudti?^ boldly
ihrouKh the snow* Time titty beau it ^ were l
Mount UlympiiH Liu^ l£e> und

the fn^t si lit u f spring here in thr Gardens i
beyond the rujige, half hidden by pfldfcs

Ji:>i of Olympus.
cOid c holds and ntily mma !> ur mile-, from About hvu wetks earlier had closed w
where wf stood, tom- ih^ -crags the inow iiiir \j w Vnrk
j
"ity ^j.uirtnirvit and -es forth l
dame, tad the r- of Mount Olympus; i* in ^t^rch of 4 wilderness Westward irons

Behind u- Lhe landscape tumbled off abruptly 1
Xi‘W Tork our train lunJ carritnl to Se;irl--
down Wward ilia? pan nf its,- I’fldFic Onii Washin^tun, where wc rented a car uj-irj pushed
which tinkers its way through the Strait of us i tsi tlur jiCTiinMiljr thumb uf ihe E^ferureen
J ii.i 1 ilr l-uca hi iinKiuL'e SuupuL There, State— the Olymp.i Penliûk, Et the pen*
h|hiv^ a blip twMi, we t'llltd diHinu'h^b the fruiuLV- rugged central puriffin plus narrow
outlines of Vancouver fdaiwl Canada. coEMEtal imp. totaling nearly ycyj.cxxj acres uf
Jr
s
C-hujE£} \\ fiilc l cuks
V I lit-t j \u\p th t Ru^ l-
\VJ|JerTK!^
On :hr nntlhuffla* thumb ul
Waihiiniilijn Slnl£ t-L/jr. -
;i p-n-
tl Ll'% .1 L Ui^tS .J.L Filin I'urcsU, Lufcfli-
itirl flr«lh>sp[jiFri ridcc.i.

ni% eri fpiL Nil lun.il Priik. :i V3*l
in thfc h-pqri crt diU isr*'
fiitil p.i 1
fi i Ei 5.11 In. , h ihu nij]v
tJnlltiJ Stale* [vn tk mdiiLEicLo:
=33fiw Hca|j|ic mini pnal ns and
I
j
iifrcun beEiL.hr-. ^tnieîlc peaks

ofiff seme of 1 tu- fcUtft ii I imjiu
Mrftrr* un the ,
1 Limltii hL, -%-fi tin
|K-Uif rrnsfc Ifmn nil usEIl-j IrtirM
iht **&.
%ti f Pis tn the 1
iriicumai d Hurricijm tUH. Itu;
siiliintb lit- ii'i nm 1 lîi 3 l£iud mt

VLiy piftiWama un
ihtt ti iirizLit
August eby Bulled r ftunpe

ikktqiiiiltl [Jn-L* 1 r c ri
“ 1
1
1
1 .
+ Fr s the Fi>urlh cif July,

hui MMauE Orifti Still
llupx a l.i ifty MuhiIiply
j
Brvause uL in un-^p&tiibk If
B.
lait* iiirlhsr, snowball* r^plnci'tl

fc'iffft 1 Jiii ZahU ft mr
ffunricflim HecLije. One

munl'h lalrr ii rfai ul mlii flniv-
m Ejbnki 1 m| I hi* Err-lcL
XnhiHlir IlflUJKKtJlTr foftltT

4= itlutfclll: Fjîi Li lii:*- VJvuiu'L Airrov-i mi 1
Mpine VltfU-duu m GliiuMiiMf! Sikuy F-* ih, I . I
-.
Olwnpk liltui
1
«£iifr tti ^ ruldta *'1 hbnilrvdt a ^Hi'ifci *»l fipfrtfiqt p&wb iJurifia the brief natttflief
I
Authw'l Cll(i tiH^rn- brui- lir-ij-Jr thr iklicii[C a ibi1£ miLi Ll hlftfllSLE nl jbY;rf AnmifllY firtfriidnum.
I i i
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as The National f I^rapfeic Maî/ink:
wfiniEirniS W' |-,L r: i : i'! i !. iliî il.iV J|hil IpfllLfllc pm* the cTfrtiri-tlad [iimLs Aleares namfni .\fnsint
ftisirin. Ehitl Lhi: F^rral GovvrotWnU lia* Olympus i n4 j
add* as Glvmi Ac N attocsl ttoki to he die*- 1 be Olymj'ir FemnsulLt ia as iuiusoilI in

i !iih! rim I preserved for tilt iitaplc of this climate as il is êugraphicjiliy and botanuMll>
Nation t map, page 90 ”0 \Inbi{ijTie laden wind- .nniTing m froth the
dttp ifi ft wooded fiioirmjdtt valley, Fsnifu: are cFeHectid ufiwarri by thy mas-ivv
wr selih-i] for ncariv thpev months Ifefiig in u, tdytnpii jut'jiks. The result my raminli on
fjne'ncHm luii cabin Victual? Utoit o n ikt-d mil tlit
L
wesEern sloi^s reaches. 140 jLidiDft -l year
un tijd-foshiodcri w-mcTlmi Ekiniz stove with util! on r inf hoi^liE?: iircumd Mount [Jlympuj-
1
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m responsible i
rhnppim: ibr wo-nl iiii; precipitatiors Is estimated to a itjihi the
children for filfin*? ihc wriodbov, arid mamina lii^ ajitmriL In lid of 250 inches.
fur Mutiny the fire void pifgparlqg tilt meats Sp thomu^hly are the Padfic wind* rrliiw^
rpyc JS).
g
of thrir witerj tMf b$ In.ul itn. time they
1
reach the norlheuitem ade of the peninsula

f SU \v-*r Nut lift ! Jin :ire nearly dry. and irrigiitiun of fiVrm
In our jctal to answer (.he c. ill of the wild i nsps es lu'i.^snry-
»e bad spurned such rltgjmt bi wtulritv* ;i§. Like Thus, ivltihr the wtSlt siflf of ihr Olympic
LorJ irt in rl k ostr ma ry Itm l\:i insula he Wettest region in the cuiUi*
(
reset fi
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1
[ Tha t w t- 1
i l
jdsievr! ;i i’.tusr rdal unship with the clt I

1 neptal UtUUd iim w Hre ri 50 males (u the
tneiili* none uf our f.imily ™i ever deny 1 \ -
rnstp in rbe su-t"illL !
ii Ulympic min shmJi>w,
Rudialimt out Emm n\ liaise in the Efwha htka el clLmati- ;i

f rf
j rt li'LuJtbiig ;i rh El yi I hr nm r
]y
V iJli'y, vvr i
mb;i ktnl on a ' full "I r*- tncrediblr t^Vclpitnlicin on (hi.
1
peninsuMT
Lug. studying, and exploring this up-mid-duwn western stupes Jl 2- pruduced <uie uf cUr mu/.
world of tiiiMirnl wnndi'irs Tlurtr Wft* ilir- tdxumnl U?mpcratfrôitot Piln fotvsta in ihe
extraoiflinacy imit forest, bail" 2 day's drive woi$d,

t" the wls| Al"nk the fjounefing Fadfic there r
TSiiifeedjne l.o^vr
wits :t long, narrow si rip of park land some
irf it iirtailtlve ami Hit k- mplni-ni that u> The ptuftion of the Olympic iimuniaLii
Ia tv as !9Sl the worlds Tartest westvni red m4 w* cloche lo thr I'acibc .mid -urn Hinder]
_s-P.
cedar was found Utferc, with n dr tit of 66 on thrnv sid®* bv waier has given ihe area
feet and J inch (opposite). other add character Whvrcas in (he
There were the bn mineral sprijig^. lure Kev&dii of Catifornutj fur esikmpLe. the
-n'rrd
hi bathers, cradled hhih in ibe Tilwhii rmrl bleak ll ^ sa inr- life mite inn
r ret 3 rigid
1 1 - f
Siijeduii Vjilli'y.s there was mLy-hhir l_ukr li^mpfraUin^ prevailing meuw mu stuiUei.l I
fre>cent wiih it ^ntmel Storm Kehk noun 1

- nu vergetjitkiii - occurs m %n L'lvvnLujfi of V 'IX.mJ
tain on the park s north side. And TlntiM E" F 4.500 fwl. ihb same zone m the Olytnpics
vvi-jyivlii-n- m l !n pari I » I- *
v. 5,000 M i l him ocfi:upie? ihe belt aljove 5,000
were the miles of fores! Douglas lit >11 ka In ihc ^hrc-.L thr sf called EludstûiiL life
spruce. Willem red cedar T wtHlm hemlifcck. ji i iif inlwindlLmi timlir-r nw|r^ anti
and oilier snt'.h gfgttts Laced through these f CoFtiUlH-^ *w ptlgi'
forests tfcttr plunging streams tint] Hucurfiiig

rivers an angler s purHlise.
1
i—it'
here were the herds uf Itoasevelt elk which
I
I
,l Disney film rm.mtly mmle farrum^ the deer, WiirldS I.4irfff*<t West t-m tied IJtdar +
ihs-marmoiL thr inuLmtuin liruivf Efae bear., ^pTij^fiJs V\ul1-likc in n It 1 in I’Cifiir
ami numerous ertfror -pities of wUdliiFe that TwAxk fcri ol ridri i* dtiipprd Li-y ?n.uiii
wj^nm
-
roam the llv me ucs unmolested ETm:i r was 1

winds on »tu fiiy tt ip|.. Piuin .ih -
ifcipc*. 5pm wn Nuilb. AtnciicuV nuj?i LiiHiii-J^hL w noct-

ib Em h.iriivcl Valin -
in <hc southron dEslricr

l.iri'l* Eh's-Bt -iJind* ns iniint nr, S.ilVu ipeyrti,
11 F the park. with it> perpsUidivaLif walls a nr I
lu n-itni k w mini ml cellar dumt di^p, Iwi'-uru

^pettaeular wttuffalls. 1 illcy s
; stu |j
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1 r;i pm
1
trutika ?md i-Trincihca ; ihnib

was the hiiih cuutilty w iJ iu
Filially there i 1 weai L- .1 juul.i tidiictja I In 1 * 1:11 ilwi
peaks ic> ^rjK^timl snows Hr irwellike lakes- Suny-rti Jets in pnii. thu> piiint him ri^Ls lus* imn l
li.il! n mill Iv.im LI.-. ET^tik. but in. will! U llir iôaMiid
il;? svriunnjj gUuiiers .ill of which x\ ben b^
Thai it ilmwj nismcnsiiiccj rjntfi |u^
(
tT -ifirvi. h Mir.
j%hted tt from the nr* in it^&, impressed h> 1
? 1 hi iniri LtiiUchteT the iwtfllcn, cU ilmied Esii-r.
Knufisb rutvlâtor John ilearts as n humi* l>j jpikr:- ru m^-fduk Irimtin r-.
he fitting the ancient deities. Ih e htgbtSE uf C V rUa'iriftr Qtfnpitfeli h -Tp*1T It hr I*m1 A, 3jJ:3
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nilfci ;..> Liipuaii

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jldE-f Ajf ir
H&- i' i'ffr ffwd 4 !ntfJ

'/urtaupA^crT^f Tpr?r
1*1,1 rta far ' J niJr r
Fur lltc People, a Liviiiu. WlIJcttil^ . .
Thf IjL-ET l -oJ thii iEQnlJKti Jflil h:uLEtli. ;L El.llliln.nl
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« r |: tn IWdk Lali-r iiriiils. humph T. il fi> [Is
In drill lITCHJll SSS.QCH Ek£rci_ X* llllids trliriU it ibc 1*i1i.l.rr-
tiras «i I mTiimtalri tmd forcs* 1 S 1 01

flCAflv LtirinzJt- it like: 11 ivhret r (A ilk A hdil
L = SrcvndLri.- tike broken piiktE Hji ibfl hub
rrmniEB N aloe's i«wel. im mlntr . it enn lie <
truly by Trull nr .is the foiril tyloî.
tmuJfel 3? lift
K -SC-l J:i+..i n Ph u i
W&ii i f;ir$ws£
g ffall Ijfflfl fir
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Ceiryrjvuur
Cun iji Lin jl
ICjij'd Jîr Jrtlfrfln
Stetf fW*
OLYMPIC
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Twin 1C Tg
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f.ihfin
fAjv 1 £.Sww Rzxtjtfi Sr.iNftn
^Mi. App’nt
l(Vfrrte.f ijort* tr?r\z

Mi ntrhcnry
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Z wiwwrPB,
nol I\‘A
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Mosse* Upbi ilsiw ll Fattest in Velvet
I'-irk nils icrrljiiS ibdtiirbiiEKe tif ftviikg Lhimp, !;mE
utfirirtb i;nmd * uÊt'dintf jfcrmLt L.> IduUigbt ftuhL

WhiJr imn tvrr pthert irPim P Puul *nd Eita iim
kLi]p Of BIDS* Ui.il J jillLci "iViti u-c tat ^ ii-n tltif
Buma/lft thinr 5 -l' : . rtuun five* mau ubl rnai£h>

i L]l L bctn'di lln-9t |i.
,
+ Faff 'J>- Siibtoh; {-^njiô h fttini&f li.tr irum niiuu,

du'^rf liijk rr a m li saM-s^dded
E3 >'irL-a*l <jm S;i^ji iilr ,
imf ^ k -'Ji'dTrmT-n i*? t'lill A. liM
94 I In Xjfmnul (.ittigrttphic Magu/int:
ix shtirt not riU[ri't_v îtntmti h at llifirmpfftllv clfiffrefl ilh 111 be nôtipblE by ;il
71000 hi 9jm
rî: in tht O^mpfcs si lib* mwt arty one.
btlwtfl JJOO £m ri 5,000 Feel. Ti* l' it: mrti in Ihe Cftitb nf u family ^rniip
Thtiip Itfthonqii 1 hi- tfuniiiium height uf the Sltt as ours. papa had Lo carry juninr a gbfxt
OSj nipper Mountitins is Krttlv jdrtut S.OOO Feet, fmn "f iho way, ami ill hire iitshmce bad to
it? ii it-ttdt 11! their nurtherly 3^ well as their fish Ij ftlr Fell nui of .l stream: hat a sink 1
frncii
LSI21IJ v fMn-ril potftiuti the Olympics Invf H]ch mimir hn sards the inning fHi rjiy. Via
c-'lim&le. vejFMtlon abd chamt - ln'i--sin.H in -n both sides of the imil, (here 15
L^rid>tic_< 1 innj 1
j- Fij, IjIc Eu rflaimhilira nf much n mn -> iS -r m i
Id and prinu^tl «i> any found
higher ajtimdes* in the wrhl,
Sitka spruce* western hemlock L.iuui’kis fir.
J rent t.t'.ii'K uUu kim Fn-resr
mirl wesieni ri-il cedar slto the dnniirumf irn^
While w-iEtnm fut hi* snnwdrifis *m Hurrh 1 *if ih u
crowded world. Sonic of these thick-
cane KJik;j‘ mcti and 'Use mrutfows to fleas
r 1
1 Ii bwttH giant* lower 2 DO f&Et min Lhe aJr,
L
iht \r SLa^nnn.1 p>e Jbk. we drvohil mtr^Tv-ts m Four mi]rs Farther up the Huh V.-ilfey is the
Che fesy I'irviiTnl rain'fojesT >\tm> - in thr jn-m IWrtd i la ripest Sitkn spruce, SI feat 6 inches
inwJk's we>l 5-irlc, in clrcumfcftnct ai chest height: further down
Ftuni flvinu f|UttrUTH Er the [ijwrr [Tnh Yi\U thi- Hoh Volley less Tb.trs hill a mite fmm the
Ivy would if li ve da* idler ijjsy [-. the end Tad he *LirF is the Utflftt western ml crrlar
of the spur rani 13 nsife* deeper Jutn the yit »>n record, metititmrd pmaoLud* Khy'wJuTt
1^, pay iiiir i%^jn:cL* Ms ranker Htlkth B+tiart Ii in li&t min forest, jci I hr Ouccts River V&BfcV,
am! In- wbEl HTeaiiDT* tijen1
out or nr it uji I j"s the Urgi-si LJ- n fir. and mu tht* t^l kirk
the traiL Fiji lie ftiw huEf-mtlt* k mj nj the ijinnaall Risei
I ir tht- n- i • rr I western
Nniuri: IVnvikl^ l tit I Iilmcuv jmJ 7 tkft die Slarripj- R..U* in the t Ityrtlpfe Park SUoiv
Surfi'ilLndicd Im tbti jitiicriiil h iuEi iurcit. ^tJii JR'ivCc
1 n:Ei i-li Luic iilltt.* HA tilrtkny Ojjtntiil’f nstura] WMttli'rrf tlEiittkL
A «We^n*tWQilt(tL dpLuini liu^ pfcturr jl TitrlraTk laFul.IlD vurtnr* in
r IK j|
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LoiH'.ifoin Lilt Miikc* t. iurrti hir Livery body Licepl Onfc Small Ovtfitwr
Fat I Pi i r* •
month; ifn r lullmr snd hb Umj|y cnHi-tf 1
hu -ti-i=nim hiit bttnu? r l^mh uis±i rutbiE=: wiUn ol
LJiiU KLuLu Ail Li lb.it i
lulled liit'LU tU il Pools- wfl till* |'.jfrL 1U.1LE Use. CkL t 1 liiu tun hi iraîp.
hftttituc.lL willi cjicunifetdiceM uf 53 feta j down ihruinih 1 hr vegjWaliim, sbnnr 1 brum'li

siirji#^ 4ntJ J7 iftft 2 Iflgtei rrspt'cnvely. ii mi l)M-tiTn:eil uff, rt’ElecijHl by & billkm chlonv
duL :sk we 1 lll 4 l:i> Mill alu-ni* the trail phylWI nuffiLti^r Tbr mffld "T I
- i
uni
ji \t4> not rl i±* bl^ tree* ifasi dwMld the shttdriw* wm- ' ii hfd in a soft jel npê and
Hii,-nc. What huMp uaie* inLhvL is the plo- all-pen?; iilinjt ^Jow*
fn>iipn of fes lowering a|ipc;ji^s-ûnilrrMiiirto
uf him - leaf maples, vine mapl&s* Feni&_ tit hclis,
ttiin prrr-kiil NI I Stale
fuflg^ Oregon omlfa .ni! I the mailer life iff Itecatw of iir >i/ddeOi ntre-resist^nt char-
this pmdtâti* tangle acter dds peal min forsd on he iveslerti fddr 1
FYrhuj^ pfchovr 44-11 it i *i the eliili mrme\ (if l_hr LllympiL I'eaLiLSuhi hn> tn-en ataiHlinjg
himînp fram nearly tr v«ry timin' h, covering relatively umlKturJjed tur CMiturfi*. Wkii
1 l'.l 1 1 *i r\\ t> -.ilj huiET-H in trailing hi rand-: and min h in' Lliu forest now in th* -n-calleil dimav
peal sweeping lulls liJkv I In ttui unified hnards slate (a dinm forisi is one ibu hn$ drwl-
of ami bob^btbi^ ihat sei
Invisible elves uped to it? nujdmnni e^tenli. pnwth slill
tlit (invimnh ^ r t niy-irriuus key uf ilti rain S

1
procîb in grent prSiiu-diin, bul the iibwdoir 1
ruri'Sit Hie feeling uf rtjtvriEiu’ upuii a nether nii.is.s of the fmi^st is vittuxillv imt. h; inglfljc.
wurjii \< iibtlt^rj by the ilrtwst i.il ilr quitl L~ri.ii.it ivo and destructive protest have
of the deep forest ipsincs ^6, and 101), «!J J. inejt:hr;cE nn equ iObtLiitn
1
f 1
ij i a 1 1 ^ hung low the day of our first visit V\ hen m ^Lanl tree crashes Eo earth a ban-
Eii the Holt Valley- Bill i round nwm Mur tun rlri'd yotifiit swillu^ .iJntady ii-jowlm: mi ih^
i ame iiut briefly the sumliec shadows foresi ilonr+ now tlinmlati.-'d hv the djiinii
were hip hived by a brillhiru su sTiiîun ni yd- I ..1,1 i Jut i.i h li'ji
ly dbwn t Ukp irji to
low-pipeii light. Like a palt mist lt iiikfrd fill ihc space ** dialed-
l« !
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In the ( -urittns of Okmiois. 97
Only one or two of th ese contenders will Tess n. 1 rm 1 . The jrntsses and ferns with ljl werr
win th* >ii.ir jirizr the others wH die ur gjnwmgi in .•Llmniiarice but tilt vegetation
rprmi/p L|jifi-i i as Chi' bole of tight is slowly outskle ^nd beaten down t?itni[iiSef|
fiSJfrli in. Mi i
^tswhi[f\ lichens* fungi, bacteria, Then -juv idle dropping on the outsell-
F
ants, tetmlb-i. .uni bwl lips will -vi upuo the and rcaliairf] tj-mt this wns an "elk enclosure
PfiUrn îjiitL, i l 1 1 Jiti ;i h v
•] uravvrNng it intn wfikh pzuk bioloy[st5 tint for reê-srth >uch
1
humus. Seeds from the living conifers jihive a v«rris: keep* any ItiiiefBJlt rlk frorn feeding
>
wi[] lighl uc-'ii she body of their fallen i rotifer on the spot $6 closed ofif^ grasses and ‘ithet 1
:nnl ;i virtual nur.^ry uf Funv ev^TTfTmis vrcO'EMlion 5 row there unimpeded. The biolo-
will spmui atirl jt
r
urw often in riraighi cfeu- i - T5 need 'nil;-
: i
pa re the v êta t un in* 1 1
\l*
r
i
tttidry fulfil ihr iUTMcte of 1 hi^ iiniffttiUtf nine, side the i:nrnd with iliat immediately outside
4
Roots ft i >3 li thr-v n|)|ii7rtiiikk newL'-.nn^rs In determinr lui which pbnt spetzies tiie elk
rainy Inoparound the .side of tin- grra{ log in have I n-cTi sttEEtfetinj;.
order to reach The gtrmmd; ns a mult, trees \\v saw none of Hie park s cherished hut
standing nn stilts are onl llii un run item hi tight wholh nnl..unL,d herds nf Rnuspyell rffc (hstt
in the niiti ftifittt \ mt? and muses of hi- d;iy. mitdde the corral patches of
£L[!hr:iu]_di
finite varipLy Till in the ground -Icvi'l ^wrcu st|un>.hi-i ur.r-- idjnul the sbe nt a luilhtlifi rrr-
I
created In the origin,!} Fall until at lenu.ch dterted that n herd hid bedded down theu-
the disrupt ho caused by She fallen tEian! will the night befuFC.
be corrected mi the fu-nesl wH] rfâun its ;
jiirv joist balance Fciv \'isit Fnchunfcd \ diuy

This punier I in- hem ^ninu n» fm Uinidrvd'r "The Enchanteil park ûper Em ind- Valley,'
uf and the entire f^fist l^ror in in fact ent Fred J. Oyntly harl in It] me, ‘is n part nt
une cotiiu_vLi.il i of lilfea logs and trees In every the Olympics whkrh fyw people huvv hcAni
decree of disintegmiion with rcrw trees an d about and fewer have seta. A day 1 inp by
-hriilir? i^wry Mag* of growth. l-i r from Port AniLeks down to the ji.uk ~
Axtfanais, to; inha fib thh imr:.s-dra pert south sirlo. thun anotlier day up [r:d.i|i m hnrft
wnr[d. but tilt casual \%hm hardly awajrr f m \— -;uid ] think yriti'M be rewarded
of Perhaps iww ami then .in Invhibki
them w us rn%\"in:i evening tlmi chJel mitnrak
It p
Mini sings high in Ihe trees, a harmless blnck Est Guimar FugerluiLd. pari bblotgist Cbte-
beetle scurries across The imiL nr a chipmunk man Xrwnum, rsuiiEt-r Lee Satshhin, and I
pL-rfurni- rticlb. uii ]i»u bciWif rhîiipearinu ticked horses across thr
I <
i'nir riicky. nwifth
under cmw r Hidden in the fkm Iftler are ftowing east fork of ihr fjtifnault River, and
frogs. salamanders, filing and mice, tbu*, aftfif u 3-iing day hi ihe }UTddte unified B
bur nn vt'iu 'irHnts smites— a which adds kict ihe Enchanted \'nllgy r
imnn-.i -urn lily ti i one's s*racr of mind on enters U'a S.jnc? beyend the furd when l
iny tli iw venerable pretincis. lir'iii'hJ iiistLfscatkn for (he CnileyV prnrvrîi
tive futim-. pemrin® dn^ri ihe nKik d'licre,
Bjidujsistr^ Check Elk Llrcf
face of mi unbelievably high i-H iirpmeait, w:lh
Here ,LJid wt forged
tin p ls in hi iht rain a series uf watcrLdls, sornt^ leapijig frem hidge
forest* my wife and mti wmiLI rest by irujl- to ledge ^00 feet sit n Llmi?. îme sweejihi^
5Tde while Kda and I veniuird Enio the Umsite, clown in great brhfs! vriK others s?ig^grTiu
1
'i;e ?rUrh d}grcôn yielded a practical lesson like f^gtnfTits nf rayed thread tpage iO
f ;
.
in wildlife cunsrrvjMiriiu In Lha jsaft, rosy light id evening 1he valley^

Working our way lu a dftaring. we were prr- nuftliea^t wrsSl termed to be lit .1
ffltxed to rind there Mutt drafted to In- a gate- hundred places* Vt Hie l-an uf t ich waterfall
group wars a j.iyramid of sriow perhaps :i hun-
t'4icr % dred feet hi^h T into wjiicb the tumbling water
* Vlen I err Hairy Foot I id I*, Two Mtifcff di.^pjHMred.
So 11 unel.iL.-J f ri .-in File hart led Win i
if Nevt l.i wi tri.sde 'Uir way in i|u- bê ni
i'
4 hushed jn-rt-juLrt. jJu? iztiuntly H^h Vulh-L- the eSCAFpfDetrt to Envestlyate tbisi! enormous
iî I H frrtERt. TnnjiSinl 1 r«T liniln Jtfstoqnrd witlf Ituah fiKips of resid wd sji iw ^Vc found tli on sc ij l|> 1
,
hi ii’ lt
1
1 1 nun li : S i s . Tci n ..
™.
Mul uml Pj.lj| y..M
« . i
:
tureil ins ife with peat l listening fie cavern?.

i 1
;
tffc sHjIlrig- ralli |q nunrf tIu- Haosd :imiOttit]

Ill rye im0tiph iti br tfniered isn hfirsebnck.
Ifllt Ti ;s W I Ct:Pi iCjuJcJ HJiiili Hly . 1
in .i r ihuy huuEjI
In! Ti^Jji oiii.i * Sur hint t-uuimctL A (Ifnlimiug ruar tbe atvertia ns I'l ltrwd In
M
I I
C T^krim I lUvî 141 I 1 V Jhcu^j KmliihayiUi n> ±_ i*U. water, art ginn ting from tndllng snmv tlnr w
.
^
WTr it HL^b Jr m. ,_"1
p h%
Pa r -j* Kr*^
Hk-
KT .-
„ afli B
r
Life 1 etui* fhi i ihc T npr*J plunr . .
tT ppff [mu: Brisibi fpnrc ufPfrLikA vwr

liUip j lirueu mnv3. pLuit. WintL iriil scit
ter &e irpfoduiîvi id.L sj. lijry ailfi jfotii
Lbc fw^ds-. i.
tnJiimetl J lime* !
Middle; \i<fnh ajimnon lunpu. cra-

ii
ilU’s spoFr niAtisw like dutch fiics ita jj 4J
iBiFhiiilutr t!4^l hisipty (pii'Kjyhesi h:avp j|

trill K U1 L nil
. ijji Ehrii |iiih ; i |l1^n.l nil'
||j)VL' ftfit \ i«I nuf;.;i 'I (f. iltSiiiî ij i i; i 1

.
!
Lmier kit: Snai* atwiilMJ Ln Ihr: itruk.
daitnp CTT-mf-n or sh r itrrriri. With ate*
mounted on lime stalks, JrwJ/irur.T i'olntu
-ra n *ee over tiUkvIt rt4^ I liar?-: li locking
iin pfltfo Te lat'Ls itu* CldJixL abell.
'..ihinar Qm*fnfi\r 4-* mi.
I
n A Nliiy World npeins for Bds
rpm Sc#fH H'reitn4 u
ruraSiikc ikirtL. ciujich hiieiBt ninth uml

rocki. BrlLLbnt ml ri.pa caH ipQfti Tft thir
wiTid. KnLirqed J timaj

(
^rni7HrffjH a sBrae mrrld on £hf

bonier Elm? bflm-rn piiiiaai .inJ aniireulsL
llcii I \Uf. Ji'I-x rrerr rull?î: (ftp Ite-rc-
ih'iiiJj’r \|kht i:;Im' 4 ij3nH d d^tulnr ,|

iruLErli-
ftlfkrr i-. riLElLi izc-rl tlmi > |
Luwn ripht Etatfinj; nil iGSJEl&Siin. n

miJIrpo-di- eliaiii tin -t-izmanlnil lively net*™
tuiis N i oraJigc cup Sunrun 3r dii.tiii hrrt.
til it i iinri nnsivf I

u L slrnbg-ftdEirrtl Lrejtuif
rcn|]=s- iij; like il ball. (fiplugH] 1 Llnret]
C tt |,| THliPMrmn I>f raid a ZjjiT
1 —u . „
100 Tilt- N atinnul ( imgrapl Sc
(r^Ltpmerat Liuee to imi r ihuusand feel above, heads fonvarvj jtvf ^treamlrnlnu ituÊr antler?
passed nn way it? to the- Qumuli btaek dose :ijiainkt the shoulders and i«w!v
m T
fur exit (mm the mBey. then a[>jdyiHC[ si i neb nE iiatit-iing-riini leeh-
Hint nii:hi ; [round tile lin- In „ hu nirûes. We wateftad others the same ^nuip
*
'uh-nuin Newman. the |iitih’s elk ^ kr rialfoi, trot up 4 rock-rtivwii 4J^degree Inclirn1 . xis
hud l hi? tu iay if It were a liorirotitul raceway.
'
S' urn. jjL \i |
.tk iv Em have -seen V'jtlt Dtarv’s
Olympic Kdc cum* tore t hi liking they will F b « en i
H I is nkiit I lu rri cane It ;djtc
hupr the crash ol antlers n\\ over The place liurbig the ttHirar of Hiimmtr my famlh
tJii"
Tliere ate four nt (He thmisautl Hit in 1 br a E?d T made nri fewer thaa two dei/eti tntiis
| Kilfc, Inn .md in the Hiimtiir they in* ‘ihy In HurrkMoi Ftidce a H&staritial
thinly spread, only luck ur wide ûrchin lunch md other infi’SarTies :nr keq ing iw.i
will rtiVt v iiu -i glimpse uf mic. Bv mid- “ii .id i 1 Hsli'lmi Tni.nfiti.il, wf wrrti|d leave the
rteptemljer. Iwt^wer. nhoi the njtiiug -ieasnfi iî mrly in ihr
bin mamlng mid ilrlye Ilmse
-l.trr- mcl -|| I| M- r.Mjml nr- "
I
-
i
r kmn- harmwing IJ tSUes tit Hu' -’iimmiE. There
imd fight ii out v.
j
i lJi iheit rival* you can we wfjuld «prml tile day studying and photo
- Jj. .y-i wiihftl jftiod camera range. Right graphing pu^dow
i
in the fl of wild fluwers.

!
now, In July— well. let s £#t up and hy it toM-k tu nuiny days m vxi *«-ur will-
\\
r
wort l he upper vultey. I saw fresh elk soil dower pictures may rH|utru 5 phw eblir^rjiiim,
1
along the I mil there muit 1 se a herd around A typJdi] d,\\ mi^hT run VMs* Ebb, By 0
Tratwllnf n ‘u ITutH.*, Xvwnmn and 1 ~rt out o'clock we mn.lil hr nn the ridije. My wift‘ r
u I
j the VgJfc} .\.>i the trull mnved iuln a cleaf- wfih a wair.hEul eye cm Kd:i and whh picnic
in g near ihe
Mjihknly <Jui. Led river. Wwm.in t^kei in band,, and with camera. c:v>(- I
O' flowed fob example.

I To one side of the trip"d and, nn. re ihan tikely, small Paul nn
In me fOElr ( *rip« gruup of i'll-' HU ‘Veil 3
my b-uk wmjid iiukc our way ai rnsv imr uf
oiiHtni_d> null -ii the wtkmIs. tniadnwed
E3ie which, mrly in Align?-! r
hiy Ltivrler a bLigket of color.

I «•
my Brick by i Spc € man far i
The day might with the suri riuve hegtrn

Corn c.ilsnii twbsrtves behind tbclti, we 1irillmnt overhead, ibf ntuiosphere fm^rant
watched the proce&suin tsf limwn-and-^biifT wilh wild fluwvrv \ eîi Lilion h^re mi the
cultures emerge linin' the wfoitifimtss hi i- li a rlramart&dly hf ief ht> cydi
1
ILM i Newman, whose business It Is to keep blossoms must l*e ilevelnpcHl ipiiokly and serd-
the purls'- anlihiil HUtthttas, wto Ha Ltd, for muturefl nnd hnrvirally disSvmimttecL
Ehi 1
snuw hi timid make* j precise fn ihr HivimtiTncm of atpum mi widows am
count of Cow*. 1 1 l I J - aLld ('JilVtiA. TJlr noiulii r
si-in"-, jn r-lif mi-ji of bicduglcal urgency, Kvets L
of calve? is espii’CELifly important. for it liiitU the great Wi-idty '-cuiited 1 mmhlelieei -=f?#.nt id
cates tu whfil vvtent hive main- iltr fifilnuds lly more cneiêt [rally .iml tu hunt mare ptfir-
biinid or increased heir number*. l
poseitdK Than those m Uw vsdlcy i pane B DK :«
Quldd> ta li ji m j irifKJtl and camera* t * hi r hi' typical dtiy we made our way in in
n En* L^rotdid day*
I I cuulij sec *omc 9U great l I
a fiehl purple-blur
piI |tj|ilnv, h^klny, tor :l
dk iw> a m e&Iv.es hut n nn iTe

i
>u * I
r m i
1
!1 -: u' i- 1111-1 l Uir ikiwpTS t£ -!^l r_ni our l*hnki*1

L.jsrffiilly making way across the stuping Their £page 1 06 fir To the southwest thr Lnut- of
-iide uf the while pyramid Thr ’SpEctflirill^r Mouni Olympus w«r* half hitidiin in cluuil<.
slwiw wra^ over in msiUcr iiF m inures. m Bdnw m the flowered mtî'laws ran steejily
“YuliU never see n si^ht like that / i. rnffriWifi itn /uge JiVv
conmflaptri I \vtwKtri,, refnrisnz to the aim-
hiniitkm, all in vine q| nearly a Imorfrtff
Faflf tUE
dk, the wnitrftilk the pi-jk of snow,, and the
i
SifTibevcilE Pierce ti F«mt Ola+lv,

t’KfF a lialf-mili 1
high. Dappling the Fem-eldd I^Lwr iri GnEd
Weeks Liter on n trip tu Bogadiiel f'r.ik r mi Mjiplr * mii^s-lir.iMftl SimTj^ hnu\ ;i
iubkIc mu tu !Fii-
High Divide Newman zmd spiral 3 mutt? elk tlffirtlij 4i[ SokiluvJL inrftl. I'mlL-fjrinivUl rllmbi .i
through our hinnnitiirs This time nuiLsniti- I. .III., II tm It i i s I'. I i".'r n| ujiily ill-" iIc.lj;. im! pfiri iht wi||
irUxni (ii lEu oil.
cirittly &nllem] bulls.
Fda i5:ihS mnihrf- plrfeinz is t^tlh lin^Niih
We wretched HHnr nf rhi'st I UOD-fwimid truikidifcLjir
SLiwj
Itm n^dl iiiil iv.it jn'Jj J !nirLLA snaH-s-,

I
h ^ plunge through
idtfctt LN h:i 1 ^t-merl
1 •.>. Itkv i“'3> -cn
i
ric- rmimulu hah n-nmi_
impenetrable foresl Lrniwih by thruning their f ^*i|«Tfifc; Etnifiuiid)- *a urrs ttMlMC'Lirmi lir THifl i.
.UhP
iri t
II V'
f
L-
1 I 1 i1 ,
'Ti \i Fallfti Giuni. +

M 1 1 v 1 1 1 > hi i|ii£ Spread Pdmuli
m ihv Um i Front* i
Light
Iruvmii paubtunK play
ilrnmatlr itrtt 111 Lhc LLtr that petunia
i) fQpq&t to iliuitt-r F-inih, Tliry ferii h>
pumtMLihriLt di-Uil .i.n J iJwjyjHf pfaM* iwm
tm InoLfliig a labyrinth v( Imir rhin,
raotlikc SLTiJitUhl ikiil -^r: 1 1 1 rhi-t-li aU
t(l dissolve mill ill y^ iit the vn'wwtvr fllvr-
MlfFihfEjtrm' remain IlIiJiIch j t i r i 1 kltaS
candaiiriTM f>l rcunjith qigjiURf and food
Imrij them ptippmfl: lo Llif sarfutr
tit 4 'ilippUl^ fit liritfbl collars awl v^ded
Trip, |Lfid Of * httlV
rtf VL-h-JKi S lii i!i 1 1
til Ll (IjMiirilL -UliLi-i fc J j i-
luv-lt, rLb-- .uni I urn |lr i f un :i eilIi i

if Ll
SpMi-r- drnp l m i39i iIll dLl- in vatt jili ui -
!.ilt- ;
j -inzlc maiiETE [Anal u!' tme spi-ckM.
ytfip i-i| j. man) fivr Ldllscj n rnkju-
E-Cnpir EfKfTL'E
Samt-diife -lit Jr luninih an she drier up-
r*cF (KU tklBi uf (he li'^ IKcm ter Jfpa by
-nl<3Sii|J A tttW Iwytff lit lit ttflikHviitJarr
i^Lidi uriM DU \ MUr it itlEnll i | hr
ii Hunds li I Jivifu; Qm,
limb ikhcriE jiihJ viifhece mill 1 he top-
pled trunk.
KluLvhf nirr " V 1*1111 1 A. Jjlil
^ SbeEf Fungus DsHjfcSen

Ndlire'^ ''il ate
Unlike must, wLhir roiubriMfin^ loii j.|lf T
wiiciify Fsmr* irMim ill drafig WflhBli

|*rl I3L kf-t! . Thi! ii i iz l 1 1 -
1 tniurj] leuifta
m.’irkinc.- lid I hr piiiuu mirlrniiSr^ iûvina
rbti lu the. itnratt ârilsl's funtfri*
H Here,
at* h sptonll 7H?rmi.-,H jfifr uf juaiL Sill cm -
1 1 1 1
tis*, Mn
Zah\ demcmHlftilF:* ivitli j v,l-j j
W£W Si rnwbefrio:«L Mulct i

+
Cplor with Waxy Mudirugmi
Paw Itl* J u ! - 1 !• fattH lark c lernpty t4
h
itif girna -ub«ilanc£ with which most
pluh rr i .i feu iicliJR'
I farnLHitire. bJct
pic avenging nniinii.il. they feed 04 tin? rt-
K ii:iiiii j
i id other iirKHfihm*
,A5t hough bticne insii.limzFrna an* ["cjiliji
the [HabiUnoLlh S,p4iE.l*% BtUs tte vLnleiiJly

1> U Only LifK-rt'. iU he LulJiLT
1 .1 l. E|u-
Wi'iud^LiHl drLkac^m fni she Mihlr ^ lluv
\\izii wi*. ihnujtls liarmk^ .ik- Ink? h'lirhery
Lli roi.
Stiff watjf |Ti:L= cttaiaiEirkc

«W, whkh uf tefl .grawa with i|ic TrhLtr-
h|*«.‘.EiiitEiJ /-rapana,, ^ wild ftAlVkb?fry+
V * V
*
» d
, !
*
rja- k,
L
Mff 9 ’
v*
• YR -%
W
I :lk Si roll ,1 Snowy Siapt
Mac*- than 50 lEiffpiPM 01)181
luaL, tndtfcrllti? brlft <uUE»r,
dDti (In- lurirr-i rt nu^jJiin^ M)
u\ KiHihr'.rlr f!k, Inhaiiii Lti«r
piimith 1
c ^'biiJx-rni
h iM iir ul r-i 'n ! fi i

Id
rock jiali^ Ihmuphrmt the j.k3t k

Tbc ihritf liitifsff ififoaE qI tjir
horl-L-LCLiJ. ilDul kidkd i mIllui
cmim W thi: nidmamc «i -

wliis-
< "muhihI lipexrmhii <'•••

J
*H- v-±
* S>
n
:^v
fi
Wrr*^
*•
‘rtf
. , l>eL‘p In Ewlunteti Vftlky

Thy-v r<>ii#|4 iLBd caivs, t=hj-i
comJ vrtn-hle’ in injcsl unv i-r,
ir»fV( i juI ji.:-u ih, ucrwus rt cIl-aI-
u
infl Hicri* Wall I tinn^v't t fly ni-
-1
pt Elk i'lliyipiJ-
EnriiankiJ
^ *»
-+Thi= 1.17:111 1.1 in

*** ,
«*"** -
%.
Valley f'tstarti ranetr SoMi'
dnii iii Jt* biisi*. Wlm ljfltiu4 W- F
*3 ;
^PT *
in
walkd
in a
iwitkbti
tHUnkni
Milk'i w
my>
fibict.
to bjwd
.SnaL i\ek
* .
« KniWlinitni Pmi* »
*
Lupin*' And W lMTe BtprkvH Eûir VlttfUltf HumtrUifte Riii|^; K + .
Ijlfwt li'h Pet a Ip turn btckil'N^J N.J I urn] ihn liliL I.L then.'
J'tlffl'y r h Dfi Li ni^ iiaijs, Dmf m
t at hr\f h v frryi,
Lut t. uri'daw, Hiiytimrhium liîtiâsu^ tt fii'J 4 despite
itt name; it ei rnlalrrJ To tb£ LcrrrlJy irk. Individual hliipM'uaiji
m ten Lut only a day. I ;.•_ tirne*,]

I-ijiht IrCt /'taifcSAi frm-^s tiluilnrs Its ll put ffi a 1 the tip oi 3
riVfJt luifre yin m , Attfrt ttMi Ikt
I jEaiWtii 1 hr lint Sruha Ihc trkaimj,
[EnUtu;. .1 I
!•-- liitu -
tfeffra Indijri piiMfrruih., jtt P rcvtrrtfel Ihi- UlvlnI flctWCtf'
p:il(«rlL Tiny ermn bltwimi pt tfk brtwven luishl nriiuj rr rl Ipivm j

•
umL I'Tiicti. The hardy plain. rlonh many fu-TAtsUra vulkyv

r
1^7 IlMIIHH ' INI ' lllf f MLir Jl IMl
. MiiUumnier Ttruu^ m l rL-lninffmiji Lllunkvr of SlOfum

1
'
pi 1 •
--
rlirhr: Rt rl mnatUttlri lsRiFb r rkrfW-nfY nr frrt
ddp rtiur Lm dnUb ruvfe. limit ^ EA&ifgtd 3 timr?.)
Rim h >3tkn r^LujiiSiin*.. S
l
, Jit 'i n-i.-- -i3 k ibr mily -ffo-dcr.
i if I bund in Mil- OliTispict KuudEEt o\ butlrr-cupFi, it-.
flom-i .tuitL -L> iBm'e* ibinjt a thiilhiw 1 1 ish

LoWCf Tiplli: DdlOlJC ] iirnirsir û/^«pim n i
il'Cflfl ft COM I Ilf lil ky
Jialn taoltre? mfc (Hirer *H a hr tmtkrruo faJnRy M .
b h r
I
*. ~v mi fcluli
mrftitow* iWHl i ‘.-i ky b'jit- flSWftJTflCfl 3ki liciu:. j
] Ul-i i .•. L'hotJitalc UK, ftiiMklrbi fatiprftlnliiy L- riUh'Ll me riMH

1'ieeiqjy h tiiiiLs like det, Noci1i^t:t1 fridsam cunbiikml ii j
tkJkaLjr.
-
TtnliiiwT ftiupnptTPlr Kin1*rhninH lip .1. mi

Nrii. S\\ ish a* V Li tin r JinJ DnuJthtcr KfralL
i BumblcbDC J'niseJ up Pollen-laJcd
1
; Lrlit^
lliF wiJfllEy foaLU^ eilwcu rate aâinit tunc us these lolly ini rd um where hr fcriins tnE nôiv U
i litfrL B-rl »^rn
mum yllm'K Lite LilElm: Ctturt will wither the toLuuma; wiml-v hipped snuiv will linfs: i^vct (he ilHpte.
Willi Uni'i lily, liLipi coJwi" ! ,
îjr- r#
,, i
Iciver U' i ! 1 ram ixrmv iMiiit Ily! iiii3 in damp IowE:leilL-. lrnlun-. it-Jmlkd
Itf MflbJe Lomi tamers bnr hi her? wrprinsi
litilb r : hifWjf i.'Lut ni i!hi,hm: ^mllrn.
.1 .t
T&u fi^npl wiiitfEuntT. Efynm^fn mipfrwm hiss it t^Ji* kihwi m v bi*li i.Tws=tjkc petali family il
i
.
It p
SfL"taJ-=Jetfkihii bre WIU miry „l.sOy [WaStrli IQ- ItrlillEi uthie ll^jut r r^(„
'
Ji. fJUSstiifd p in h i EotSfiniJPll 1 tiHiiCTLJ ( .

1 P I
In thi QurdmE m" Olympus m

into it 1 hri k border of l^fiTuirtcd cvvrgtmw, ii >! pf£BL'i 1 i
j
d “irr wild ;i fw-.mul-CiUl in >,i 3 nl-
standing prim -ind clniiii wbb l"ht ajimuil grateful! t Mcrptrd the
While Jiiy m i fc- titled ihc L Mdr«i
L
r uf- i I he ii I ufferimi, turm-dp .ind ilril into rise mist.

rn M L£it| t: I hi- bf..mLi i
v ip r I l. 1 tiicr ymingesl^ Perhaps it is only ffljr tu statt* that l r
. S
wfc hoped. might nap 1
I Would tiMcltf siftcM Weftther Bureau stajtiUMcg indicate Ihut i hr
with my tripod rmrl camcri] c$5t. Coming summer of ]9S4 ?
tiie year -
if our viî. iv.st-
uj.it: hi a partFvulnrly rich area tif lupines noi typical Olympac stumtier 'i'he [average
tilics* I would iaJE my wife and daughter L:« Mts-snl with im abundance of smishkie. and
OSSist as muflcbi Tliey wmsld siund am id temperature^ arrl u.yually drlietii fully mild.
the blufsojus tu create as pretty j picture as
J
wrv husband and lather could wish tu see. Divnoc-4 l *n iJ-l: u I

1
.. : i urudi^
m
Quickly wen Eld focus ibi earneri lube

E
1
Xearly J.CK30 varieties of floweririg js Lints

light nsulrnsrs, be nil tiffldj f-*r thr “watch hliiom in i fn OlyoipfcH. About 10 of them
Lhr birdie' miEliar . . .wheel abruptly £T»ns( ar*' nowhere rl ft m the world
fiitarnf Vhty
awirls of mhi would sweep In uwt lhr sino- gtm mainly tin he slopes Mid rldpetip? abup 1
mit obscuring iht scene in two seconds (pd&L* 1

4,000 feel One of them h the Fifin^r bd t
1I0U 3 would urge my models to rawste an d» wei. wJlIcJi my wife luraled ottr murrsing in
place, promising that the fog wy|d qidrkfy u c:rc"uice on Blut .MuLLiitain 1
lift, I E7 i
dJsiipate. Often this would br the casiu ho greai profuôn of if ilir div T-my dncl
Hut the lug would bourne $& tMs mount,! in ms Kden that no two trips i
dense we would Uv forced to mum tu the cur yielded similar rn-ulb. Onr day wn tnsghl
lor Et Crtgpfag journey t \ invsi i hr mountain,. fiml 4 EUirtfculnr meadow yellow with Imisrr-
i.u|i^: a week lnlt-r. Uur with i.irkîur, wh
Ski Lod^q AudUs Vmmri With plil f \, r r or:mgc with columbine
Frequently we would seek shell rf in the Only »nn:o did i nuanent of luixiely mar
ski EurJgL perched high uu one of the
1
ritk- if ]i-r joyn m -i s i* ivent u ref.
mast HcnrC nmulrtwr cMligSv EtfPft Mtl I
My witV
bad turn phnbi^nvi ibing .iiu! ]
Xewmnft. wife of the park bioloLfEsL and her samt rnlLiniljine not far from where the claar-
hîit win? m;i i i.hikiI rln- VpiLjcs ttach liar, ine tfrnpj -ed perilously fmu a ravine perhaps
would console iis with hamburgers and hnt -?C3Q fi!-t suuighc if own VVf had heron
coffrhN t'li^ro^Bed in the -.ulijr- i ;\t luuub wife
FhU nw tnil rmpTMive rmiunlainlup -fu> suddeuly Innik-r^l tip,, her %rnice a bit shakv.
Lute WlL- built in anticipation of the Inc rtjised "Wltcrc’i Eda? ” shi* iifktd.
number ol visitors rajicctud over modern Little Paul wA-f ffitln.u safidy neat by in
li^bway, which* when completed In 1957 m a 3
iri c cr h of nu.mnmin walltliiw es
r j
s. deeply nur-
\95& wilt muke Lhu wnfulm of ihe ridge
t Cernet] with lh% activilles of a nectar^seekinp
count iv
w
easily ncce-.dhlr bv car 1
tw H r.but hr was akin in \ |y tyr- has-t-Uy
On nor
such day Mae fog cam c up 50 scanned Liu- awn, tnc Idling the edjge ut the
thickly that we dared not nmve Wesaf t III* re precipice Loudly ;irnl niu^ luuifly shotted. l: 1
in mir win lei> of mist, waiting. On il ofm\ a Edai Hcb| Thtrcr wus no rcj^ly.
clout] matter which half .mi huiir earlier hud
nri^-ii ilireedy out of l% iJk i
wavtti. Froiiic Search over Roden
LuEHthtiine arrived Co reduce the uneasiness t rati tu ihe tdge nf chi- rocks asuf wish
i if ihv dhildf-fth, Thru 1 kiw ,t figure mate- bead. -I i^nipniftari on my lifuw, pr.-cnil ovur
rializing dimly through the fog. "LirlJo I ut id di&wn E‘ 1 h- siflhl T firartd wns not 1 u (>e
shun led. aware t h,i lhr figure niiiihc btimder c seen, and i thanked fh,xl. I returned to w berer
into U5L. But there v, as iso j|$m:r whal vo 1

iIn; « ail bn! IjinI 3ttfri l shouting
had thought in bti a hirmnn being wns In fact wiibtsul Onj usurlng resfkki^%
a Landsdriie doe. 1 started hetevittg in uver-pniu^fng c Ire hs
’««
unbounded delight wbt rever
ihi of the chfSdren, soarthinc 1
the ll'iw o^s. wrrf hi ah
the doe went di recite to inv ar
li?nliier rnmetit
i .
enough to conceal the possibly injured \w*dy
oiM-" -
tew non-:-.,if Fed thru proceeded in nf ,i child E'i,jkina into every utwt of mck-
ch^w with alarm in a vigor l, page Mil. 1
lif it I tesril a Mn! whj^peritig vui* r-;
Before I could point nut that it w*ls ''Daddy, ptea&t stop nL'iklnp all ikit n tsise,
against park regubtioiiia tu feed the wild ant- Uo yy:i: want (u re the miLmiut?'" ^
mnl- Edu diirled ftariessty up to ihv «!-ir i wiis too reliev'L'd to he ;uigry. There was
, i i 1 j j
im
4 Mint Svîrtinn i)Q%rn it \tcifjdowu3 Sl^pc
Flii- n S lJ — n Cl nil " jr nn j E
r
um:3a> Ousimt
oh frrbthE rmnninf duv-i Uu* ZjrJiJi mb' ihf
JtUlftit'y /^ri-tri vuiLjy uijbiii lo Hirrtkntir RkHjfc*
(pflgr Sir), fno^ltfflr to author jfiyV miill*. Nilurt-

s
lrfci.L ii iltrisi Tin wullL4 ipFL' jii IjhmkrL In til Id ul .- il
putfdr Mu^lupôf and niEn irnekr r\vm Mm: Lii-- Then,

nbrypcjy, Ini: would swire p lil o^'ct to siunniLt. tuuum:
*EEuJt* io imoL SHirarllmcN th# 1
fhotui i|U.liibr difiEt-
gLilLiii at ulbur Ultra it Cir.it m> dense to pjrty b.Ltl
|rj kllV£ iiu* ITiEluntflJn,
Sdt-hqit|^ Im-ndes ji Picnic

uml Munches urt i 1 ,_-t* u < Stt* r (Isne
“'She4 HrtUfe^J u lew ti .nil's, ikn jifpo i-dcd to i-Uvw ftttii
alinniliE vltfpr :iinj aiû tllr. " uv i I3u: jutIuii. "Hi-Il.li
I ie>liM |irim out tot Li 'r>, n.- amdiiAt pork rc-jitibuiicu Eg

I l*i!> 1 hs th I iLni.rn.ub. Eda iLiilmJ ftLsrkv=ih up to Hie deer
ami prEfifipted her wilh a j m.- n mJ L— Iji itr r -.nrMlwirh. Tht
animal gratefully liter pled ihi- i]Jr£ll u i'JrrJnK. turned,
M
and Heat Irtln to hikl
Puki l El. atxm Yhiire E«1 arrinipl* tt> EtLiik-d ftEiinIi
ti i Hi * ill L ImiL- him ihytr ton to untie
W
I l.-ur fe cif
JipDdfcit
f-FU)ckn[ milh iJrv wftfl Muesli m>r( nn 4 'i rfffidiF

Jk. A in r mh Li oil the l jfchijhJiiifMi, or be 111* I pmLh,
to ck Jioi tg flnwTT i
h rr i: . «rn the Ulympii: h^qto.- (En
biped ' time?-. |
; SuliillU- Oh-UFUMlh *-
*~l rl T JlM'Uil.'lllilll iip iLi.l X r
j. A:.l
h 1 w 1 u ,
1 12 III i- V~i r
jl Gcogr Lip lire Magft/in*
Kdn cmichinjc hflhiml a ruck* her ryes intent Ft irtun.i tely . ^ 1 w OK rn j i ii Pi ni n 3 uf ii pi
!
i
mi .1 Large witfwRJtucfclakc Fpdent £

JJAge ID4). or !
|
vm:n.yE in ime vaJlt'y nr on mir |n-ak riots
I
must indeed have SCired hfctrii fur tit that nut necessarily mean tluii thr mmt i-n ndii ion
IiLstiu'fci thr marmot ltd out a sharp hL sting prevaih in 1 he next valley cjt > >n Mir nrxl fêak.
whistle luniad. artd wa* I’unc lull* hi* huTt: for niday>'" KiLc wunhJ ilk early
I LUtfiicti u Lecture from Eda*dtovU;. to III th^ rmrminK, a> life in um calm be^Bn to
fjr>t on marmot natural hhrtorv fin n nn Lht l i would ulimce at tie HtE^c heii^hi^.
I
SUbjeei of IlgLuffafaj? I Ik- inimnl? in n nn- dear a bt-13, H'i Hufricark RidLT L
|r
liouaJ park- When it \i us my turn ,
Eda tnr Lis* Or n^y answer mi^hi Sie^ "Odiiifr
rectivtlil i
return kiitin ijm ihr huxardr- uf I
hi low. No rktge ls>tby t How ahotiS thr
mountain trawl mi the part uF unaccom[innkiJ Suttflint:k Jl or Like CrîCCIIt- nr Hint 1
iVrsi-E;rat3i:rs. Mountxin. or the Olefin Strip?"

i lEu.- fktstl
I Strip wTrr chosen, an liour
TO' Oman Hiker IjoM on Trail Inter would find us ktuduL^ wf^ward on t\ >.
In dir valley a few day* later ihe in- 1 01 Hits esccl letst and picturesque
nd risibility of the tpaq^rirDcrtl wandering ru.id circles tie lia-.f uf Ihr
p ut - m:tits n.-mn-
off hi Lhe mnujiLdii--. by thcaiiielve* iftti t.sin mass, with sptsr r> '-id- jinking inland
dcmonMratrd, li wjl* w*tl niter dark,
furLhi’r t hru utL h vn ley o w.n l i i iills.
and park ranker James F* tJartzelf and f

After we exaraed ihr Elwha Ricer Bridge,
were driving up the FUwha Valley rand tr. LjLi- .SutlfTlaad wmtirl s^xin appear bdb'iw sit
Inspect various public campj^milnds mnLifi- oesr tell and a few iniJt4 - ituUit-r no our n\:U \
tatiiitid by 1 fir |iark for vfeUorv whn prefer in M'Dndrouily blue Luke Crescent.
pitch lenijs.
W'etthtT ( Hletikird hy Phi me
Outdoor flrepiincs are pmvidrri. n$ well -is
c jt-ti water, picnic tables, smjdtary fadHties, IVrhups w e would stop r

briefly it I the park's
iiiicl mi tun? leiiurra in ihr efe^ |pRg|t Wk :
hiiotmalion t ‘enter irior Luke 'recent <
i.orê*
r
Tilt pieksJiwhich wt were driving r truck in Seusiinal lurturalisls boh Haugen or < h«ds
had two-way radio abruptly Op emergency
it Ind^r.son HvoLild cull lulo hîidqilarters ut
ca II hum HurtzellV wife, Mar, ,n Mur nmurr .
l'uri Anyelea for a. deck on Lhr weather ulm".
statuiti SMtmdril from tie speaker; lie WML Oi nul i ir^t I Jst G fruit Shn.rpC Would
'*JIm a wom tin hiker is ins? up ora r I i.(r exchange notes with on lbe progress "i me
ri- Urr he husband here t> desperate
I 1 ht‘ wild ffijwer- in thr high rountri Phen
'
Hr there in u minute refilled Harter II
'
In* off oj^ln due wr^lwrard. P
i- he spun the truck juuynd and stepped ott Oil one particular 3i_\ wl- Jrîl two specific
Lbe ltli*. "Gets jirrUy cold up theirs on the aims: f i
r ^ n to vi-il; the coastal villa err id
ridge tir nljgfat. hi? commented, Lrjpunh and show Lie children real
HartzclE e\pkiiTKd that ! Jlcr bis A
jwrfc Ameriran Indians- second to sightsee n
we]I-uiuimj:i-il nemd syilM and ptfiMmiwl whale that had beep washed ashore a few
trained in imy phase of It. iri LJ - * oith pjf
j
j
Ruby De-n h. Hie whal^ stu.i
our fcnU objective.
Visitor* Du n't KccognLAe Banker The highway Ie it park ^rrFl^ry and passed
Ji
Thi ii- rirluT-s m id KiniLiitidn* b uk >o beau- 1 Kt n ih i
m 'TV i.t u m herm“ ir; mo m ni
i - i i
f I a, i I
iLTit] _it] 1 1 *o darned inmn cm when the *i m ihr [r-wn of Lsirk?,. On the oOFskirt.> of ibis
ilintnu hi' continued. *tbat people âmc- busy tuKHliajc iNUtposl coukl be amt Jir ravage- s
iinifs get indifferent to out su rest bn against uf ll forest fire Lh.it hiiiJ ±wvpi rhtr cuLimn, -
r
Military travel/' sade a few years prrviouily.

Two hours later the mnsrrr^ tsirr'-im tvliorti On©
look ai the miles of Jjlncb stumps,
up mv\ i }i iw li the valley iiimoLiiLaai|£ that hi-
i
I colored only Sw blos^miinE firewmI T an d the
Iasi woman has! been found, s\w had Sulkily pli'-L^ i if Smokey Bear Euuk on u -
1
N d:«l
i
in. Lillian I io intercefpt ihe Hurricane: RkIul 1
msmlng.
road anc3. in pin h dark, tud waiked mosi «>i I recaJtfctl my ifLcTissioiL^ with
t i
j
way durra ihe tnountala uniil -he met a chief ranker \\ , k . Oakes who is charêil
search car. with jir^H'nvtMori nf the grtpt foiv-i- fruep
"
kiujtme, routine wan Hart zellV namlbtl fieTy ih- -it ruction. He toM mr how each day
when 1 1 ini:mi Lilijln I kilts on the sfledivc durinH tile summit ,i rmfio survey b UHlf'.' of
djft'cMun of the search humadis; mt
!
i lie it . i live su vvs n'i dibl riils of

.
113;
fr Kun^c-nr Ka’p VlfliJ ill rt

W n Ji v\\ cd
j hv l rT Swk ng E e i
T wilt in k W of Smoko
Qlyitt£iji
'*
tffiaflBmJ ii%h have turn
a t i^t r ^ wklfapf cad
1 dfllil t uciituir tb « n kv
I ci racier prardiim?,
OaUt in uimwrT *pott®ri wpwi
tfiTidiiUum ul $uBperaltm: r ijrynea*,
*n4 Krtpd vetadly Ed cask twii-k db-

[rccL, U a Hfi*f hui-dquHJterE it uilj Ike
*l fifii nn4 rtiiiiu a firc'-duMiflf nura-
brr In nlil w fit and |nnlt«mb 'Zrrrr'
tncdfia virtually tia chunpc til isrc;
H
"iiV'g i ir ni Ki jhl iviHiili U.n illY ifctlii
"
LlMiEcrtiua .
!
*rvr ij '
.]>? l£i a HivJler-
(mi stall-; "liftf warm cri MtH/tt

ii> ii mu iLi.a :in uulunmlix]' fc'E-
siii ; .[ iipius. cnil hi ail hi t Mu UrLtEii
n file breuki <i'it uiQlailc anhi

niih t«i (he ipni hi lu»he instm-
mountain airiiAjj planch drop
^juipui^nt lf> fit* fiiihtrn-
litre fi i;i.! - i.
wit i c-5. aide llonuM C,
lUUIand [-insnlh nul slrttfr UfiilnLajkl
tci Eli 1
T.dhl ckili.li i
n T-d-a i
1
’** =m
qllihiJ-- |f. frmji (IR ilL^LmL Mutitit
Qty rap*i±_ fli u i iftd i u uji-nL'E aidiu re-
volve anniriij. .a mac- Mi

pfiatlitiy ctu^m In lake ft twuing
whzto ,1 fut ^ tailed,
->Kmy F.ptfi Miiriw urafiH Ir* 'iiur-
.prim’* ftiJjn a cha/Ted slumf Cfcfti
miwi\ talk'll hm/vcial. Si h mnonc

the ftpl jilantj tii iiifwftt uftce n r. is.
Mil | a. a i Ur - I I I
- UlUlNr
u-"* l>v > •'•*1.2
I m
IN
Mount Oljmpun ml lIil NiA\ WifM Skvline. Siur* iUv 1$ :i il
ihr. |i£irk H which Ihl- dry sir™, cmi-

a a l i
4
i r L fractal fan in Ji Linderboi statj*- when
b&stiliihu l«tti|ttnilurev ifdtsd direction and
. a stroke of llghiiutm durirt# A liigh wittU cjiuM-
vi-Iueily. and other tlr t melons- cnu'Ei! rt-jil LRiubte. WuLiTd warn nil tire crtWx
ei esi I nmj^ r jtinmns to go nil iin ecnerû^
Fire 1 1 Dzir^ Axn Rxted standby bp&l>_
From thi- icdfjrmniiun a firr-tLcigrr ntiriK Any fm'-dinsjiT mtnifMir above %rveji would
is mUued dnilv
r
tu evenm ntmti-f ’-LtLmti md sigri Fyextreme danger T when even un nmu-
Art lonjtfiul i
p4gtf 115) Rutmra miajse from mobile ejduutft sfu'+rk canid set od si nun-
jft'D'i to ten Zrn» f«rr example. Lnillcaie? ikL^nLtum, Mich a condition randy occurs in
thu! ,j tnfLî lYHiMc t burn tveii is - riiH'mir the sivhLki dld-jqtEVwth forest of thr Cllympu -
d\ ijpli» i
] ili rar e q rc h : Nu ,
* via j e e he wood*; 4nCflL If it -dauuJd develop n\\ Lnre=i-[;irulLV-
are dry llj ll thiiS ilir iuliIiI break Otil and tiun LiLiifiidu.’i, bi.iiJi î,s|r. in 1
1 juiLtiHuil, lii'iiiUI
sprout rapidly So, 7. meaning ibnt the (ak Immediate -tqw, * Vrtnin key reads
I
| J 5 (fÛLr % i.t iail fin s p : I >
rs I a Grrfk Cl ick Otvell H cni s ^ Inly R l- 3 en t E-l]^ ^(iwerii n[ ujkI Siil>¥v. Winil ttiiJ Rafri
would he closed: Commercial Turnherfag un .ill park every season ^

ru.uie has produced rx-
flit- musk3rts ni lb* part would lie stopped: (fltisivr damage In Irtaured forests hi
the
Spike Oakes wink! have his fue hat u-m\y recflttt yejiiA. Luck
iind ^>mc relatively easy
ami hi’ crews alert. lire -cHsnns have played their part m his i
Wht'ii .< fire break* out, all I lie park's record.

mnimtim ration channels are held open : nullis
n , '. iri.> ir-im mobile fire ululs pour into hetnl-
ImJfans Inhabit CJetiBiii MMr
q uarters fur intqptathifii :
i^vishms and fitev The kean * Strip is a new addition to f l| ym-
i'i :
Jit i 1 1 1_: i-LjUfcfiHienL are dltipped fay plane e
= •
pir National htik. acquit rd in Jan wiry tOiS
mm working in tfc moru inaccessible muiiiu This lenttor.% Wttfirltnjs fmm the surf's bt^h-
Ub k areas. tvislrr mark inland alsimt a mile. tun-, rd-nu;
Si i i i . 1 1 1 iv< i- 1 hi- [cm ibac ahhouqt n ’hr penm^li/s wetsf rn.iii 50 m ii ir h - ;nul
certain number nf fires d n hrrak mil aq ihe inr lurks three twlfan reservn dons.
A .YrJMULlJ rtawflihi# hplaiT
m h: ,fl , r ,
I'ilil 1. Eu r I
Pijstr FMIflnwer Smujly Amid LicltE&<iniiitlcd m a inttj Lt-iifte ->
Ctimf&jltfk prptri ffciLui'uJ ,tyl tqp) !*tuu . In fcifly iTPvkts,

-tiflly ll la (taSûr in th* t'HymfFlci.
M
hruceii, iht juihor und hi rt-Eiir jtfco-tijgjapii iba bjurly ran &riiftf Ifcywid Inum t he .tiro N«gl W-rttia
-
US Tlie X;i*ttiri,if Geographic Magazine
One must sec ihij= Olympic: cusai lint to Hum ll.^h or tu purchase their iriukels.
UffW It l hr grail; needles u£ bare ucca- By Lite tu .\ taû>t ive had and c\-
visited
si'in-ilh, tret-^h|Lir|n I rnrk rising straight nut plurfil almost every doe of the park's major
irf l Ur Mud' tF ic
5
M_"u|)nxii'K-d cavern^ and fuck fwiiure.- -jil (jiif. Mount 01y mptis itself
bridge the >.hefcr shore Cliffs; the uf Finally word ranir that the passes, were open
while drill lug-;; ihe Etval jtlMeliEritf beathi and burse-, waiting- Mur routr would follow
Tlir tidrpoiib teeming with life; Lhe sea herd;: she Hi 'b \ ilJr/y t" tikniur Mtr-idw: fmui
therein uni m n prolusion duui^be there we would proceed on foot
Fhr i*
h fjin S a ri ji for [lit (entire SO miles uf its I wihuIjI have prefermi my wife to go along,
length I page E 22 h bur thi fc
disldren JmfNK
[iu tenth uindi 1
Lhat
sible, She and our L.heiishni ihuit^li sam»v
1'wfk Is Nn Fillet far 13
tii site riri[.H?dmp offspring would hanw m slay
Thai whale of business with thi^ lesser i'ihvha rfi it.i ts.
, rtiurfr had tin
hiring ffl the park Its carcass, lying on. the

Tin- * fay Fn I lire my departure 1 chnfTped a
. k nd :i fe w ru les i ?mi h e * i
e tl in >\ Jit at h . e tls t-, I it
wee'k - suj>|ily of I'trt'WuocI, I hiul m
par-
ji ulir Afj)m^hin»>»-ti "vrr Iraîitg ihv family
well haw beefl ;i fiiî i
MSI i Emtnst fitinn-iiMii
-i month or twii earlier hut by lhe lime we MloHc. for tllev?r

had lost all truces of cilv
naivete,
arrived i?h iltr se&tir Nature but taken hrr
Lnt:vEtjible iiurw.
One mase than 50 iWt away
whiff from
«
C.-|]ijdiV‘T! Lfflirti Outdoor ^ j> s
and my wife and children turned ami mn; The children had Iwcqsne re 1j lively Qiitdiw-
T ventured little Huêr but sjmn was [ter- ™ -tnd their lumber cm4d handli’ the I
ll.ieFlie :lI-u ti> rielrral. Ur dlmbrsl up

Iru'li -.mvM wish the -vlr-^suraiuv of a [hiumii-r wi J"t-
Mu- iniil anil headed nurtb ward L'he deer, squtn^k. and chipmunk- ihiit often
toward Laptisb- frisked u] i to uur duor, wen (lit: possibility
Htj in t J i |Jrture^qui‘ fishing viHitRe hr
i l'
!
'
i
of i biejir, hittf became part mid itiircei of ntir
PiuiFh slum ii tl nliiB a beauty worthy uF the 1
mutiny,
other i.vtuulet.-. ue rhr p.u Vod Rijn fotmrl
k. ]t was well iH'fon dawn wh^n I ?ei out
I nd in ao- imt iFiem in uuLbimrd pro- S l\ huur- la tut
i
hi-r :
.i of by ear for the lluh Valley.
pelltsi diiLEnui canoes* smelt-Hsiiing In the liay. mti $i$r UtUdh and 1. Tii.uitrth or our saddled
>he noted garments nor[bat neither iIveijs* mounts were heading up ibe raJu-foresE trail
I heir speech differed from our own. Thisse toward .Motiiii CJlyiopu- JO mite* cftsl of the
NprEbivL'ni Indians \ mi lit* iizimpoE ihr lluh Raugtir StatTntt.
t: i all u rr ns the |(jltrh.L^ who Conic to Watch Thai night we camped under thu towering
1 1 i v
J X
*1
Jk
1
‘H-
-
_
L ~Wt
It®
* Ldtpfciihi Srtlmun Pled Idfc*
A Felt .i H,ir^*l ts» I ihf Sdii
(Set ttJli.i uirvei] jiiJirn UkiruJ liuiiiiu mice miim
E.j.1 iih-i ! ;l it^kaded Irirt Whrn iilEntk eIittoiIdtimI ihiilr
jiEiiemtiLiirJ vLLliitfe, ibr.V 'frnk triune iti Iht left *ful
stood i N the- cnnti} by ru-lfatf wk- iftd dnicr.
ihv kmk> UAib
Tr.il.iy I hr hniAtirli &h dwrUd .ijlt* ihr ClkiLtkyillr
JtUi'f Spl'tti l_l|m«-b vi]!j.gO Hill), Jlil J nclli I
r :i
1
IFL
‘
h !l
tm mmnwrdid btLat*
|i*- mi tr&i "rurim
+- Alonjl the ( Si rip Shovdn

PlimfiL1 Deep f 1
r Hiizi.r Oain*
In ibU jujfriirt tunrL ftHltf-kcrs wear duxurarr-r- and

mbtwt 1 1 ii i : • - i Nl-v -ii. Li Id h i.u l-5 a.i nested aluirt WjiJed
1 irii pun- " The rLinv* nrmnr ji a thlft -ttaiU.
'
hiL|xc] uarae* Ii.li Ukr an <ild f M hkw l dticjgM iiunr
Thr mnlSiiik'f pmmlul foftfij uw*] fetihflWpfcg*
make* n ifakk gteuiwuy iWHffifcblr, Tike StiiEi 1
ElsiCiartmrnl ItotlJb bn> number |Hdir* djiizni- m.ij t
lake.
'
He U'ililr i
1
BTnc GJpora\ H[ii^>]y

Shi Retain* an lc> % inp oit
I
the Five .{ Dl>mpui

1st nsouniijiitciiis cl) n-vtf- glade i n drtfailiip
when wimtr i hnn\ hnn-.tfl cling unmrllcd

.I n hi4 rt: 1 1 nf isitiiiiEir. Agcei ana laird LrtVCTB
ffllent t roitD riven an moizdlaiii Ftirnmllf
Ircfcnlkistv, thaf ciiarlin^ nwarii
crap diMm Liu- tlnprs.
Glyrapk dl^cier^r llhc athfP* t™-

U\
fwrrnlF lands IhraddafiLtf the wniM* an

dwiistffiaff Many have dixapprumf. but
Sfisir- 1tian 50. ccivrrbii J5 in 50 hjuUitl
imEdri,
Acu[i Mmirir (Hymimv, siin
pcaituulu't hhhirri |j£itk„ til iiajoi rIij-
Hers t>W4c ihwjiwaflit FU'iudu 15 ami

,’rs E'vt i ai |
H’H’i ! |
1 1 .i l i iii ifkmIv ^ now talk t
oil I hi [ifntkitLkrd unnmiL triivli y«rf

ifrrrr thi: :-i 1 1 -i • r? ui Him. 1
dFt, thr H4Jih&jfc cwHltiEi a m*tt pool,

Cramf-nnh, ice jvutL un auit-iy rop? abnul i
I
Etic âisi. help him mocniVcr ucroai Lhr

iJassy rirlpm
4 V: -lii.il fcnIFr nrlgri id lilur Ei‘r .lI Itii*

1
flblrfCf * rcii'|[ Ll'iJZ triilll tQWEI fttiDY? iUftf|iT
Hu jji M_ Bnzailh.
ijy •Ki.<i m i Bill u L. iiiutic iM'Jctp

RL-- H luinnUi jijr I'-euL jL 1 1* i
120
1 .
Iri tlu: l fa nJctis nr Ulvtitpus 12 1
l rues ill VAk. Liikt- From there nrrt ihy we mountain was less than
( hif îch iuefall
foUtpwed .1 precipitous path to Cilstder a rjiuirter of ii railr Irons where wr sIfmhI
Meadow. a I an deration cl lbout 5,000 feet. a mi milling white cliff pjerhaps 500 feel high,
\L 4 iti the morn in]? ranker fi&zartb and L n-ith forbidding cracks arid iL.ssoEes, rudiup
r 1 l-ti in lt] i the darkness and mist. mode uur wuy lij a talus uf vmmumoth
Mucky. Cleftrly fee
up the steep hulls -mile os mom me rock he;i]js
1
llw? gtnls that dwell an this Western Hems-
between Glider Meadow and the lower fee sphere (J[ym(KJ3t Bert! of c^strenir hilwrmal trm-
flow. j
irrirnnu
WfifTr the ni^ks stopped iibd solid ice Ofl Lhe u-Miur haiuk s^mLe forte
besun, we affixed crampons lu uur boots and m*ems tiuSL- days iv be in conflict with the
tied safm ropes around our wnisls We white clnd deities, bfach year sjiair t hi- origi-
stepped offterm fintia and onto the glassy nal tiirit.Htfrmrols wmc fafcen. I he fflaricrs of
MlfflaL’r of Blur I rlndt r. j
Mo uni I.Hymp-us and hav^ becufflr i-malter
shorter. In the 15 years brtwefii 19A& and
Clear Weather Aid* Asccltt 1953.. nine GLcier has shurti-jw Lav murf 3
V
Fur a time least, the weather was |i:i»- than SON im and -.lnci- \9I9 by nearly rhree-
ably etei*r. In m|icd and emmpoond sa Fifty qunrh.Tr i if a mile.
we hiked over the ice, peered nisiiiuuMy into f'Jich of ilie approsiTTUilely SO glacieis in
I
ynwniqg blue depths at Jimmngiy
hr- biitioTTi- the O tempi i M-umUimc is only u rrmruini uf
ten crrvaisseA, and explored tfe grttt vertical what it wa.^ ha yesteryear. Aerial etumninj^
knife edges of blue ice that Cuwerefl it the Hun indirafes a persistent aloidal tece^simL
fader's mvllitiu from* impost te) t
c ha racier bitit of must present -diy gladers
Here and there mi the finder's surface we 4 Ihmujdvaut i
hi" wa»rli
stopped ta cramitir same id the be uatuids I i
One SeptemlM-r ituwplng ufcûi shree we^d
r rmv ii:r v, urni- which lav dark and ihiv.sij-
1 1
after my visll Id Mount Qtyrtnpus, -l mssfott
like tin the for ur bow, These wiv i-Ti fact oi ipjite u was Es.tkm u place in
differrui &ir|
true worms of the Family Enchytrcu'iiUe. "iir I’Jwhji cabin. Lumber iackris and ha»v>
Eadi was about a quaruT-iiich kni£. \\ alch- underwear uuve way iq city apparel os we
carefully we could see ihrfti wriccling. made fi-inly for the iriu. Aa .l l.i -i
When iln ^- l.ihsirre creature coym- from; duty. I emptied the ashpiin ui ihr wckk! stow,
wlmi they cat haw Eiuilr fa % fintt-
AuiLJirin Nip LfarLj
[]rjn iU sot Is low temperatures. why Lhcy
choose such a weird environment ;l it ques- I i riving nul cif the i-'hvhii Valley we fell
ittuis. as yiit uruiiiKwered i* i the satis Fncl km miite (km

a tuiich of ant nmn in the air, ]
III 1 1
i • I iL_r iiit_s V --I hly lirr fetf) Oil iiih.l-;- knew dust over in the B. iLîchirl \ivi other
seppk nlgM w hich may grow on the surface valleys bull elk, with coats sleek and &n£fev$
of the pivvailhiu ice or snow durum certain Sharp, were clearing their l.hffxu*. for Lhi-
period* of tin- year. LLUiumn e^dk-mrui thtii be,ir-. after n sum- -
Iti5missinp unr-Pmas fur the moment itot of feeding were growing fai tin
lh t r H i m .L-ti-rsisc. we collected a few -pivimrns kie-seasun berries and would ^wn rFt ready
and went on. for the Inv ^h-vp; that the wild-flower meallows
Olyiopu- itself, f.iunslnu briefly through Eu nn the ridges were wiiherfrm ;oid the winds
mariitu of cloud* lu (lie imrnedfate Ssouth, did pithering fara on the slopes.
not apâr as a simple peak hut rather .ir
Btffore winter would whitrrt Ehi>iiiiHUu-
Severn! .croups uf wbtftJy iSsepaiaief! pinnacles lain LuuJ .. turning it fnint u pamiltse for simi-
1 1 • J -diiiq* rock summits, the highest reaching mtT mitimtlkt5 cumjjeTs. ami hike re iniu une
i h'H rfliuyu tin level u! the I ccific, some for skier.-. I( was nut an indifaereiice tu
.4 Q ui e ini 3es to the wt -
1 . Bel wren 1 1 u.-c craggy skiing but rather the summoiimsr of school
sunrmfrs w^s a field of perpetual ice. includ- bells luck East thni -uverl u- imot the tempni-
ing n lensllke con mured dome; otltO tWs white tion isf .Htuyitig tmmer.
arriMifl
1
l;ilU CAub year, m mic 2QQ lo JSti inches
Kftj dililJliiiiul inffijfflaliiin nn FS'^tiTn firn,tr-r*
of pret inflation mostly sttcrw lp.ige II4) P
.
gee Lhr rullowing iftiL|« in thr CcrinuiiFmi N iriOJl^L

When thr bud becomes hi:--!i|i;j«jrtiibly ,V!.u,aone AmiLinih WUiJ Firm i;r Oidysscy." hj p. I.
ftleiter^ Mi|i Pasîiri nf the -Mid-
heavy, the see and hard- packet snow an mnd I
,"
,
'A-i tl h> iCrtilli S. mmI Fr^dedi f 'k'niriili. Ainu-t, t'
(he rdyes of The field cmj:k off to feed the t'ijrj, jml WilJ Flimvtx ui ihf WftL" by EiHih S,
•
sijs ur :eat gbeiera that totigue down fnlftl the C,"Li.-raMt-i Stay, VKl.
Sail Aii% Wirfat Sun. uml Uctap 9ki'yrnj>; What Mm Could a Picnicker Askr
Sfjiin (Jdci not InDRupisHw il»ii Llrndij he mctely El; driv, mtju-din^ afi iKi^W-tannl Hk, trull dnwjs
i*
Irvtn draw? talTuta. LUii iirals fn>Ik ift the iuri and sun i?n th£ rockj*. St'ft hax- h nal cm niithon Idhituh.
u^
.
II,
tiT Sfp
-*
Hfc .
« ll JiJ
. 1 .
K li rope V ia the Hostel Route

With n Bicule for 1’nm>pr>ri atirl a FjL'k qji His I jack, A
PhumographtT Finds Fririids and Adventure \ braid
Uv JOstFH Nkttis
fp^lth 1 if ti$ trillions from Ptitil ofrnphs l* i

1
j/jv .f nth or
HAD almost rurutsitm ulut wBil i* run mi had E O' half] my uay mill of the ea vermin*
fiJt hkr ll had Nmi my (test lung trip, mUmmS
I sand ID dny> on a Li. 500-ton roiling, piuJi*
t
It
slit- 1?
fuund myself rydFjis afuiia

wasn't untEl I
itin; ?iaip had oanditiimcd ntr Tn kfêpinc up- I He dock street thul I realized was. cm my 1
riufcji ui’ flour ihai moved even when / was iiwat, T5GG mtte mim my humt in Philadel-
>i ill phia. Under an* was a. sfttrriy HrEtLJi bSeydr
Hui this -was Suuthimipimi. I ; 1 l: I. carl _ imd I lull >-300 in last ihrmJijJi 1 1 . 1 1
1
and sis
I hud JTiTi time in rtWntit ot» I he adiipEiLhillty i
cmatiit-. Thi*- m-.iliM Im?_ [ knew, mv frrtai^
of ituin There were t"n many thinu> tn ran. est zli fi'i'ii 1 y re sn far i
ro ap .
p, l 12 s )
My hfcydr Lid tn \nr lotaleih my park und Two rnmdlls ht'lnre. in New \iirk City, the
saddlebag rbrrfccd through eiLELnyu imd 3 Council on Student Travel had nfft'rud me
H I *: 1
FuropL Via the Hostel Rtaure

1
123
round -trip hAs^^tr to Europe in return ft*r my

\ "Sc yVe just come from America, 'ave yaJ
in-- «b naff phuiijftrwpher.
1
a
r .
Mam yettra Well, just fnl low me a ml II ’rive yn out of t
before, hud dn hied h j i oflic *Liy l would

I i
the yard in no tfent/ In two minutes wi wure
see Europe by bicyfch+isiaiDttfliEiu many yuLinjr in the Iriwn of Soulhamptnti.
fw-ripk 1
talk Ltlcomparatively few at-
ii
nit Suit “The old lady s wni cm at burnt.' he vuT-
tempt. Sioj iptag at IrUeriniifotuil Youth Bo*’ unlefri'il " ml I
I d be glisd to show you a bit
Itj Eerie nil tun -hi-ltfR wcitlcd the buM way nf l Ilf InWII.
tu acmmptish this objective.
I vtfytWns I was to use for the next three 1/ \ -i *!,£- R in i tiii i frti re d 1 u re
months was into two hitytle h--- IVe rude h a .

monument tupped by a model
a Cartier [xick, nticl n ratnera hag I of ii ianttlbr old sailing ship, ""The May*
patkefj clrm Ilium, is sweater* a I tawon-rayon tfu^rnr sailed from liis flint fr^r Plymouth to
suit ;i:nD nylon rain ut-at E S nrltlciJ fir?? aid, start her voyage Lu yimr i mm try/ }u* said
tflili‘1 sewing and mess kit*. bicycle repair li with pridi".
kit, and a short sleeping satk Maps, hos- When my friend finally lutd tu leave. I
let Mmmulis, farcical hnuiiajir jilim*e hooks, answered hi* bright ^

“hi^rru i' wrlh GckmI
and ftiy uainrra tf[uipfttrnt o.nnjjJeti-r| « |u- byr but '
c-'iiMhl myself llih oJlnl '

hjerrio
pack. wore dungarees, red Eunnel -bin,
E
after hint,
an \mmcan Youth Husirl wind breaker, ud I he Su u !
t i t mptoti in istel would nut n-n < i|
a baseball cap its I art qff. till a ipi. luL'k aft J wens oiijthirkm There were
Trying In find my wjty nut of the South* many mure cycles, iiv.uorbfti^ motorcycle.^
ampti.ni -Inek. area. 1 fell in with * worker amt than auii.irnoblles, The Emdish
utricle a battered bi Lytle wfth an empl>
lunch pail daUerbig behind. With a fjrin nnd
* Si r SriviJhrnrrptllH —Citim'JV In Li-.lfd*n, by
SianJ^f TrKMEOfwi, XiTTOja ir i .t\Oi4 «An3 n- hl ui xriKT
:i delightful I Vic kney accean hr ^nricd met J artu*t> 3'JÔ.
+ 1 .limJiTfi H Toner I ! l" i J ij l' tiiipvv WiJc u* Cnv dld fi-S earner Ibitfs ? p do I Immen
Tain IJXIQ-Ifm ilem bl's ?win2 o|jccl iji R mJn u I l-tk,
M
Aft !^JcdacSi:/
h
te|t0 It* tlMf aijilmr
^ !' r > t:i !i eqi ihr l ,l!Ut i 11,731 RcnTfl, Mr. Xetlts tiralLî hii biki im .3 -pin i>i lunch ‘•Ren; |ff n
g hillv nri'l"
iiimuu ubti? fyrmp Were unheljerubb hm;k.'* hr wrltpi 'Smjll Womiui i± I* eaDetf |hi« ifriHfcui (if |?naUml
'
I And 1 l ii Triif'r |'t- - InilÊ wfth -S

:
imlLtJiSji nf • 1 *H.bi-> ^11 iW wlrnaiis. lant wl Lit nnil entire uriir
1 - , _ u
316 The N.tiifjnfll Geographic Muga/inc
attach & gasoline motor m almost anything villnjge store along the way sold mt ray lunch L
mHn hi wheels. Is took nu L

wry little lime m V$ Itri-Hrl, Jortfp cheese, and miQt (psiiti: |J5)%
,i r 1
1
iLfr E hi Ig-ft^hiiLtLil iraftte — uniil turned ;s
I As Wmppierl my nusrJest purduyt* shr. 1
L’uttiLT! Mure than oftiX

1
I found myself ashed; Do you tik> ]:'.Lnana.^ v 1 Vr £f*t ™rte

swsnnnj; sharply t*i avoid a startled muturi>.L very ripe oneb. here mu I there :- ntt
|
hj m t in 3e(
In the main btrnei sn- >1 m old Roman gale- ling BiJore I cnuM refine- nhs
(hem spoil.'
[ iwu young men rear in altuut its
askec! had droppefj two bajimms, a tuimalu, an d some
history, him before knew it we wen- having I t tcitiitr inlo my \>a^ ffte. Ab T ute. ( reslected
uflrrmnm lea Ei.-pel her. They were st udeuts tin fSrtiEftli gpiien.îty.
fmtn in’ Jiivet.-in of SuiidiEuiiptori. cmiet
i I The (’aPterhurv lio-Eci ovitfkiuiking the
Tu find out about. our American educAtional tiPivn WUS a model of mid
system. ciencv.
The
'
>fv dots here
nt'Ê
B
mnniiiig
I
I
w ;
«:oasied
Irani ine^H
wallifiK oei tables.
:i:ippi]y duvvh-
r-fn-
Hostelers I Jm Their Own Qioroff hill to i 'natefbuiy ( Êlirdml. 3 was "Vef-

A i ike ho.'ftel, a converted mzirr^wh *ri ±ci whrlrrieti a- 1 listened to the so Ft innuiriu id
n lawti Of trtts, ilcrtfers* and shrubbery, I pre- fhr.hirl.ipy.s mid wa]kH tunoug tlm stately
sented ray American Youth Hostel pasfc. paid colunvts lln? wnfjs uml flixprs wv re covered
5 ^hillisigs, abiniT cent?. for a flight '5 hirtg- wirli lableb di -Heated in the dead.. It wa
7 ft
mg and was handed :i duty ord,

supjier. <ind 1 ike waT kim. t h mtj l; h -h m \ r ‘i range im i « w
informing sup that wa* to sweep she d^nui- 3

iVflliL'ti'.Ty
ifjfy floor .mil rlmti iW due-ibb Limsh tditr I- mm ranterburi Eu Jiuver f rode through
After supper diacovertSti What a Wonderful I
Kent. Thtf CkirdiVn nf Engkiid The misty
nirvihir plft£< j busied can he. i
I Talked with ruin einphastzjeyj the pastar^l mtE finer which
i Swiss mountain tdbnfcrr, n South African, ilS^Jlitef] Hi m^ny goinfTTEEMPn> mF pcMSls .imi
iwn Swedish girls. n London £«fepk swi* hlntnl writers,
(kfiuan hikers -t New ^ urk w filer whu came At 1 Dww

lugged my heavy bike aboard
fur a fiitmmer and staved five *veurb. and an Hr
lt]F sieomer
fc
Jrteru! Uelaium i ^ n
exchange tendasr imm ^lalnf, A$ tilt chalk clEli hi lover lieriiEfi^ &mnlkT - I
1 had plann-d [ cycle to Tandem, IS msfij - Hid smaller the bun suddenly came out
aw.jy. the- nest inomlna, hut .iv.r-ke with 3
biiiihth 1 smllciJ. In 10 days Ira I'lik^lnuL]
I had seen nnly xh*ht hours of sunshine-
a Severn cough. A rw ductur guve me
a pre.^t Jujth and invited me to come hack in wo Irisli Inn-* from BeHmst Ire.visr gnd
3
p
for el hot bet.h and aupptr I ircepta.l ^raie- r Lilli n. cru^cd the wjlh me- their i
fully. Since Hritjiin has socialized medicine, is rovkswks made them lunk like sail
ilit cmly eo5i wa& tin dulling service dkrgc 1 i;;i Rj rJme^ their uvlP weight, ha Wii ve
rn'int;
for the prr^rLpiiiui. bruughi lUi our foi.#d wflh uj| # raustEy in tin?;,”
After resting for two i.l.iy> 1 hiridihiknj In la ir| r<pl3in. '
Sr. 5 not so deal that 1
wuy
" And as we yu JL
London she a furry, my like safely in hack. l
aluii",' I
revor .irldrd the
With a warm hnndi-T.ikc 1 left my Sept* liwid will gel JighEftF am) lighierJ
1
tkh dwseil Wr-Htniinblrr

triil -- driver anrl
T s*i Kihlt!^ With I. .-Linjluage and Psn rr.js
Bridge fnlo damp, fniy mid sumlwrly im* s
1
f-ssl ve London {
1
typR u 1 fl ss ini vhiny i
1
* r L i - 1 1 StmddBiia my blcycfc on the Gstesul drjck,
fenders Jkfid honking horns* T felt as if 1 had I inii fur hr hostel. England hud "ffiTnl 1
I h j fii taught in a stampede. nri language problem, but imiv llII wn5 dif-
One rjighi soffit- friends waiehed die

and I
fe fecit fbe Rfrel bs^n- were m eu isi ej rlc -> h i.i
.
unbind. in--;. rs.Hi-L'^.tttd Eduards ai H inking me. And suddenly, witfiuiii warning 1 was
hiiEn FatfclCe,* indoctrinated. Enlu Lhe stune-likick paving of
+p
Thty re like rebuts/' sumroni- remarked- Eôjjeui cttitT^ I luund tny.wH WflK itiaken
Just shen. une of the sentnits passed us. violently it> I hruf been caught in a tiion- il
asksn^ quickly Irom the ^de if hes month, h ^ler iiuLSNiKt tush lune. I haid to fighi in Ludd
“Time. jLlcasL-?" We wen- m litarlSerl we d» jtumllrbar^
almost f^rî' 1
: Em tcD him. it wj> yj minutK-r t arrived ai t\\c hostel just in time lt> cm
iMiforL1 midnight uiul get Ei> my InjEik Indore the ufiuul I0;iil
On a typically dunjcly day I rude across
* !
Set 'ill \\u Liinrinn in ifeir Ni ^ Qvirh fcj II \

Luoddfi llrkdi^c ruul turned southe:ist toward
ll^riLiJi. Nat: u tii Mi.im iin M b. v.lke^ Scirttrnlir-r,
tjmtufhory. A little whit-e-baEred 3ad\ in a IV5S,
1 1 '
\st*
Eights
in
Kb
Frendi,
riHlian,
1
u1. St ran re
Omuiii Flem-
and Span tel
* I'M s
swirled i limit me fa I W|
ttikep<
The nevl muf fillip 1
iBjtfovtml fi secret of
economy I was ralhij?
my 17-frajQC hfiStfl hd?dll-
fasl wln'ii [ myudf
addressed hi perfect
American English H*nl
Brit kh Knalisb— you
quickly pt'n’t'ive thr dif-
*p
fsTcficek Vnii rfimild
carry Viitir
«
own fiXwL
III! -a Vf vi in money.
Tht- speaker was a
hanrls^tmr Dutch boy
named Horst Frisco.
,p
\Vc !I like ji 1i*uk m
the i own '
he slid. 'Mmii
1 IE lift yirjii înrled."
Horsl, 19, wm due to
lie i f>t 1 1 1 r L-H t in | Cl I hr army
m twu days. This vt.i^
ills fold fttaff— ppljilmit

nftG miles in nine day*
over the |1 _eE Nctbcrkmte-
He kamcfi, Ills excel tent
LitcEteli m *£hn«] wbftr
it \Tfc- uunimfoin for five
year.'. His leather Imp*
EM.ui.rt) to be art American,
We stopped at lit lie
-J i • I r £ - where Hurst: asked
3 27
lEi^ lEtfn, [)cNiDiin^

the Hintr*. I*
Ltriiiiin" 1' 1 L l l
Om til 1 1lFr r ItAU t III tin

1
Hmihi’l 1-1 F £i e I
i !C rn rFH ! [\ -
* ! ! I
! k I
I
' WE I il il Elk Wr* r _
llrpilci.- s-panTurji? t hit':
Thiin'ifp ft j t hen# chime*

rtmN itr Hikrftml ff»T WVCTl!
a
l ck,% ilLlHjJtr j ptu|)rj»d hiCEr
Ihilbix.
Lurtilfim tnEf kfuMnir Ltf
ill i* Idl îctu Ell llli 1

<Sn -1 . :i \ r*
-
i Ei c iUtbc»r unii.nj* lur*-

Knifii i * . Fnl irriiiA the crnil
ral> \ ml IfrEt lir|%i-’+ ] luidctzuEi 1
Humd iso «-if In ,i -*a ,s ahi»y

fmilrrL '
ht >
n [*nH "I nthbicb
wcmnl tv Ihf rliflJlctidnE me
"
id- i4 j-iarnc S Ljjl
1 Hi: i
1 pt ill |
t i
T
1 CsCf,\ i-yn
4 V d -**EfSen
4tt tiAnturg
•Pu* 3 L*ld,
/Wtm/s
^Mb'
frank/urr
AiFJnjf.Wf
BOiJRO
ClhiiimEsurSta,
StrwmtrA
Fr*lbur»j*^
V-AT-UTI U|U£ Tiris^v
S WurpWhi/ Gpfltff ji
,
dibi c Mr.p
v -r
i
Brim" Irf
,
.‘trfrnfin
SWITZERLAND 51 M
in Flrmfeh fui the fuxf T wanted. At Line nut-
fkirts of thi1 id wpR be t urnr'ii toward the coast PC fern AUSTRIA
-uhI toward Snipps.
1
I w iu is ii m\ way lUfi m^Ji

i
tin: narrow iitiHilr-
Vdl sirrct of lj:'j * jin

mUnur'l !: kr> E f - . i
"Vcv flu mlling roads. Bicycle paths ahujf

many highways in Europe compdnîtc fnr
\l,Vl t.:^Drn
the mtmrroits Kid ridinc surfaces. V’ M#>7
At the lxi±riE hstftej f .Hr with ^ ihiti-fiie'ctJ
MbLvj-i J
(ktmjm vv Hi* knew a Iffljr Fneltah und
I .
[MiJ-inol
T tried my tut mer German. Hr hrhi up iii -
cimieeti, display inn the Naci Swn-tikit and t anct« Thun *

nagk jjbrittn)
“Fran? I he witr/' tie said* iJtTSO.I

,Afjntcijmu-r
I pfefaitl up my 61 n~' ^- k:i JTies is a]-n (tA’/IUkilt
from the war/'

1 t ? a ft ra ni!e wort d, I t hm^-hi
Milk rn an l iff c r h I 1 cap i f ; 1 1 ty hi p*ts*

onte i.
.jrJL-i
-War ihv tiJttu i li AnlsE 3 iikikrri fur £L pLaCt
to l my milk and was dimmed to i Kr mik-
niaji's home r I. invited mt to have mvp1
snnd withes in has house, hUe \ ale. he \\

oskcfi r[i3'"-S ii iti> m miuhanr-gim French* l
ilsdn'l underbuild, My nhm.H- hunk iri|,|

biu Lu mdei dinner in a restaurant demand t litiLTih, thi>, .mJ R i j'/tT Tflkt the
Tiol wuttt at the bultl, or n^k fur a |iEmic Siiliinr' \crffli»S MiJq* of Fi ui i>pL
ticket \ -tEunhlt phrase^ perhaps hut im Ho!ft£tin§ uubN Jîli KpElk i "SAtir-âftl
B
ati American inîchr 1 r yin l,: verse with f hllrtplrljihbii, lii ttrnl niri '' rrL. 1
. Ill p!um| > nfi lr»
a friendly Belkin n wa- in wnrthkh-,
thirl ^4 n f[n% Dmr n%hl he hutui^J Ln a nu'i^rVil
it ne]ft
i’Wk, imoltirf m a ham ZhiJiinvini: ihnnanJi
* Svr;. m i
in 1
-,i 1 1 r « • h ip'.i i M^.Ajnxr tv'imi hl\ fit rdntLticHluJ fu4ihwji>» thfflnfln!
Ki Jifli-. LJw City I be Sn K'otpri./
1
1
*
y I.. uB=. Xldi iki- with k-n
nivi'nELLTt.io-m.c litHl-. uJ a nuintKif jd ittllMlti-
1i r
?s :ifn I "Timm hi Vji RaumJ th-r N«rtb bfj'i oUiJi > -MiTlirur the yninh oa i
l.i %v.,r(il i FmsSrl-
Him," hv Fnmrt's J jmr-E. Mii (
> , tvi; Jnff'si higpiol limit ,zv, tAt. N'i-ilis
1 .
ill i u m:i GlrU Tnurinii

hy IS 1
In % B r ijJ.hr mi the 1 1 ^ lei CiraJitt
r’Kliilif Iklitiinn, 1 h-n nulh-nr racl Syfcbi
Vndlte ul Emu fHU n , lows Elrft’l, and fJtmUÊh
C'nTliqi ol MiuTlvil]. Wpiil AtfT.fititiisknyLtiis llirm
i, 1 1 i- uliJUDi 1
Mr. Xulib Wi^ lil inr : l
-
.1 iL a!| lMi 1 1 >l-
mrS i r1is-r> i!
!i him j r behind -n i i hi- vrti'-p hilb
'I -'irr 1 Ic-iniimI ilmt tJiev hid! Lil-ld iH-fuuncE
;ii iri 4-nl!ii
i
i
!
i' hr my.v '“but I he diacnvFEy
'
iliil
IInJl Ui i'ii i. my wminiicyl :iijfr |hi:J.

fieri-: liic- irsrti i on to. mîji fla -
raqui £iJS!d 1
: toflliMs rh* in IsiickrrxrjiiLL
A\lvi ts t:.K Ll=lilent iJtjJE rtiEmtfr- id sir I in I.H

u-J
inndrawing fiictittfs unci making faces, wn

ir rut wnrndy,
1
1; The ooly ihl ng he was suie
rif whs that ff.i- iin American, anil r.ht- *>nly I
thing km"A’ vms that In was n milkmanÎ
But ibr Ian itu aut! barrier didn't prevent ihr

maklau of a frirnd. Ub
IB
H,
Bb
j
'
A
K__ i_
Riding through a sinaJl town m*ti t lirti-^ Hv “ H J^ •

r
--ri- I ti«
j
4rd i l «r- liluMing of an automobile
Ihifti. A carload of young men shnuiril ii
HtEf in Fi em_li P I whirled Jam

lime la fjM i ft
1
ten neûlkitt! men on racing bikes bearing

liriw u on nit fafit — very i'j^l I svrefVHl ciff
(hr bi eyrie path, imnwty avoiding a frail

-sLlihI A half block ahead ,i CH,r fmifcod fnr-
sidr kc errarti -Mmi left trjLum for only

one isicydf to Sqiiiwsee 1 jj\
YUGO-
SLAVIA
Wr^n-1 Y&rtirtjm
!
tef ruti I r
Saa
JJTiifd I
|jg
\Fkri,',nA-.
1
f
1
rcnzt m
i
"-LTna
i
I
Anccira I 'n itajs day I do pm know how those ten
,!
spwef n g fieEtir.m* numafirdi

a i
j|
In Uhiîk 1 -sskcMi dirniinas of a small

muii if L a d#rfiy T hi < wIf ll* him lik hi^tpl nd-
dress In my mum ml. Tic fi'iititotl nbcttfl in a
very rwjait%e manner.. A block, farther l
asfeed anm htt gentleman wbn just a* jiusj-

ik'd> p'llnhd in theojip villv direction After
i
few ith rc i request?. which tuiirhod ufl healed
ar^njmails gnu ulu the thwftwjUrS. I
R 0 me Ham A, I
1
#
Inur hi diirt inm most nf ibcrn agreed ujxrn
i
i
It wLL-< liilc" when t fiiierni tht liuêrl.

tfcttft 1 ini'! SUi-Uii :h E 1
1
t "In ire, Irish
fnwo Cork, [ iicir lyrical accent fascinated
Ltfiim jEie 1 trj54"L] >liijejLi akuit it-
MLV«
1
"Surer tttir] b<?l5orr.i r

" 3 Ltu-died. "and it s :i visited several of Brussels shops, where we
wee of a brogue yunVr tfot There/* She
bit watched the famuli Belgian Lire m-in^ made, I
twisted her mouth la the side and pffndinvd l ben headed mu rvdi:-s toward Getrflimv
“ S’
;iti t’&ttllem Imitation n| a Hollywuocl îng- l

(IT l hi- r 1 . 1 1 In ViL hrn (mill -;ift- Et ll rln*
sterV fûn. mall far behind, although my hih" h-stl three invars.
M YuU man
I tV easy in mi ci iii. you, she saifL thetas halt. uur. I iVk like nil old. uhl
nil talk Through vtmp duk nl 25 .
The tte.\l mi'rnmsr in the rmrunno mom E
met mid J'iv* "

(Sul tin ivvnyi biug f mat r .
War Diuim|e ,SciSI Appurcm
Coll in'* huge pack was bid iivitily 6a tbe VsiLihcn, like C<d.ajjne l Ruin l
( Ekxii, and
l.aile..
I He wns muttering lo harnwlL Kitlilrn/, u.-H a prime Liruet of Allied hi u idl-
,TiMW if 5 i Lie salt* I-irsi Lhe mi hov tame er* during the war bnd contiiincxl Vont ;irra-.
apsrt in Qîend. \»x1 flight tb sugar b.iii hi 1 1 ll i

* r Li
i
1
'L gkeletrm? CoJoipiei despite much
I* it ike.. \uw it-. Liu sail.
1
It iecm?i jJE I fin u-buNdlng, still dimwed marly left h\ ihr
1- unjauk. denitt and r-E^pcirk chi* hbumiiT WmbmlnoHii.
,r
rufc tes&i k. Pouring rain gifetfed ij> wheat we relate Enlo
J miiuduced these lads fra in XonJhth Ire- :mu titret- tin j roughly ^wikecl -Vniefi
bud eit the iTiHet ]!- 1
fr* jiu ibr \\ hde nm* Pilfered r.hil ho>iel nr I^gia ts4iiyrhtr^f ¥
thev exrhanevd will Ubm.> about the tw*i Ire- n> it is called in tiermany. The interior of
Luscb, lefl with t v> ûtattlvi girt from
E * i
1
1 hfc- thttf-stuiy lorivrrted tanmh s lit'] w-t was

Missouri mui Uywh who were giiing my wav* polfrhtfd sionf lilt* and hafriwinkj* h Ind
Effzatnrtb Liiid ^ ylvii.1 . their tkimo we he, Lut the l lu:iti t-fpK i <-' n I look of i hdspttal but tht
i r v\ i] T-!nf .mrl Syb [|uu V. I
1
^ i iilimrsphere uf j catnp feutihin
1
4- Hhi nc Sttrimcf
Carrie* I IciNfc-tutfl
l |> it Storied Stream
In Cdnimir tlv awLhtif met

debt Scflkw Girl Sen Lxti Ijiieei
ttar LTaEf^nuii Tei-

i^l-i ]ylt tfcu“y iravp-trii iduiars IV
khhu- lulu Switr^th-nd.
F3i rr le± Bail SkuWiiirB Ihr
j
lit l1 . aâil iht nit? i Mu t *•* Eiji'h
will I air ill r fn t>n K-nliTfrir

îHjn-ni %bl|i fc tu-^ tulimcd in th<
tlivry îiLifiniE nf IliTnuin boli-
diiVKfft, .iilmiri-il Lbr Litipv^ri4>
Irnimj: ihf I
i
i n L 3-^- Hud fiMtiri on
tUiTL'tî L fiHfilFJ I ciîfiEatt* rlaBa
nlrenic Itrc ilAldy tiyrr- "EFiiltth

bnv- ‘vSib fuift1 il rlifht were
IdkUvh tTutwe^ Q^daqv,
+ Nyl on Pt mcho
Dor* Ifrcublt- lluty
H Et:Ul WClthO pUEtUfli lap
from she GrlTTOn Vi order So
M
Frriifef un, Mt Nefcifr uTinn?
M
tH L'nip-T rturyAnc ISflW nK
f urlb ^ i ithvt 'r'r ib nin it «hn*'-m1.
'In lltb hallikc eotliJtfiE I
Ifl4 llfe> ! mt -
I h Lnr L! ‘-il t
EtoaTC^ InrcEiw, but il pJWtcf

nuM flit
nykn pôcbci ilniihtci a* a
CP- 1
1 1 1
1
ijtsiji or ilirLtrr half for
"
st^pTiPIp
Hi. iL thv pfltiiDT 'fchttrb lii
Epiti* hr KhLrir muf Hoji

btiidr £
]
d.
iiiTerraied vintyajdA Climb
i
i£n: bunk Oh B-tl-u fir -iorcr*
111
a
112
Gurniiiny (Jtiulv tviih Vimli iL.i M j (las-lJc I'urneJ Hostel Above If lj e hn ruth cm rlit Rhine
.''
Wheel i.riifM'iL Llsi
t ii1li.iI Jhil rhlLirc.J ihr LOUfiyttni, J IlJI i . Ll I Jl;u? KhtEL v. Iii -k i! b.u k iIm i Ml 1
rebiFi* (he puLlmr "‘T jlf r tptcîl 1 1 j taiicht in armor to cimJJcrtp: nu» wfiiKi ;j tone?. ' H>tt Moxibn RxjIliu;c
L rbjh l j Dl SifeL rjJiLi:J]Uk r (.ililrjmhi, ho cte SfbvlI uxp*’riuru.£- tilth d iziu ot j-oliftp Ul-lttuci lacsAli'jifri.
CjtTmnny fs truly Pi coupLiy of bikers and chofum so Five with a foreign Capiily for two
ttwfcrSi Heir Found Seoul andI months Tjmdrf the sfionstis>.bi[i of ihr AmrrfeiUJ
youth (groups m> hulin^ ^tiir fmm W t±\ BW- Held Service Her Eurnpriin- family Jived m
I in, Miltiv IjhjV^ wq fr | biilher fi-fsrii, mmu ,>S mtlcf north uf Odnicnt 1
slviiti.^ i and ,i number of the il\tK hud cm- It \fas i iff n\\
m
rif.LuU*. but I i/ms curious to
broiclered dresses mil lirawM hair* see how mi \ in mam pirl ad j usted herself
Jf,i ujif currier nf the enmnitTO mum a gniLijt Eo i fb-rn-.in hnuU ,
.mil vfcir Vers* Sri I
frt imHavana Wju folk in another hitchhiked i> Essen :ind fmmti inris I tui]
CaatTLcr a hhrtirt yMliW s-tjiieeeed dii iictufdlon l>ily settled with hei juinjjted family.
wUIr other holder? hmcmrd hikhiu ’They 're iitarveltMf- Joe/' she said
lt
Tb.-\
Dti die ship 1 had met Doris Esch, an rs- havti fuur tLnujshserij and freajt me j ust like
rhu i] iy hijî school tfiKlml f rotii I h?ur horn. n (if til SumcLiiUfn I go tn sdicn r] wilh ihe
MidiitfaU- Bright wid frifrisdly hbe hail been id her mrh.
. i M « E
Fm S si fjisrEsiTuf +
3 Butcher'* liV'mJi \w
• r
¥ j T f 1 UkJ ^
IJJ|f
i n Bul-I i.tr.iL'h PS .
\ lllrtii rh hiUTi-h -
tauihl t hi-
tuihor ihz icittI ol Stwr^pca-

lin rnltfir
I- \ Its In nil- .i •, -
VW»1i ”i iffy ICHlf fifritL .i •i!>f
u lln id JrLLU., JJftd -.1 llJc IMfLi-

riui’^ tbns buy utL'dti,
iflltk I ru.lt mtl vrtL tulips eih
mm
,
"
jOu i
Lklo-lui
Savory rhi:a|i ami

|
iiU-Ll'IcaT, fimtr i twiiNli |
£i
If at - I c
j - In 'Tltai
plump rylinrim cumr in many

‘hnpra abit Iir-fil tf-
frilprniliitn^ irrrcl lakf up icE^hl
J-h n bnJLftgrk
i
» i
lint? tOMttf » 1 1 1
1 1 1 ii i lie \
j
Rhine, LlLc iILILLiot itn |»Lik <(
t
bv 1“ yu^r-flld h:iLT K\\\a oi Jm i

Vi
1
IP jjj
L I ILU lii- LI.

h
X WJJEU !U !
hip sjj.ni he up twl^T^n yemnn; r ®

| yp hk. y
.h.'lrr liid Lbr QBfoni{i Girl
Sr ml j riilin : wjih u= ''
Mr.
\rll.h hri niS', “Tbev dubbcdl
rum r iii’Ll Heu 'I’-LiE "Jiirl |
<r i -ii'pi I g r|
htm ivhti a S.i.iijI pin. It Sir
i-_uTir fine ol IVili'j iwftuiJi'iit

1
jxr*=ei5knjik'
m
learning Fjidti>Ji, f "titer Dmwl* “Hiittdji Pnlitltuih." h tl Siv Tfttchtir* Snlik* AppmmJ
. -® L
4 *
t _r*_
¥jLr
-pj— W
- ’
.L.
r »- jjBj
fe. k j JH |
L j
I 1 I > - .
F L : Jl' i\n I C ] i Ec t
Ti ic kt J in tlw II l ||k. *
IJiiitJ* the Plnetd Ncckitr River
ftir I; in aiir| hrMririmS Uvrv tltildrUvn; bnut*
C*Cfinan jr'i tifduil, iiKEtni-iH f'lirllaJll iTilOflitt niilii
-
fit thu -
11-rJ <iaifviftfiir wpslJf* tiiiill diimm- i h r Lr&rmnn
Ni:siiiL--n.nLi- kimiiLilr the uiy Hlurtrm in im.*-
Iku(i -i rnl fcny ;U_L < Giidv il-n*ii tbn JCpsLur, mq* rafotf
hunt ihftx prritly mlkiiL Lsiich W.lIiJ hill> Into ilir
fiFdhc plain.
Pi'ii.T Kiiliii! stiirvr-i tlic kdic Iram Old HriiLpn-
Mv i.^rtiiius i- i i l ts inmih tn*l!vr Ijui
my keep* u ’
faihrr
1
German -English diction-

1
ary handy in eh**/
Dorfe referred to membenr of the family
i- shr would her own. Ft rênwd n wonder-
ful tidal ion^jiip.
Munt) Ebitj Brings ai> I ill ividiUM mil
Hack at the t 'obtettr hostel E j aw ll pfi?tiy

brunette UNlyhiR a bicycle saddle Im J tut-
iJKmzed T bc Ameren Youth Hostel money
l^g Imsglng (ttm her belt.
HirndyS'
'
klIiL Iis j^Kid to see such l
it
Lute Aittw u ,-r -ii far from hcjitir.”

She limed a round, u tit Hr surprised. I
PJ
Well belli En you toti; i
^TrnV(?linp atone?-' 1 usked;

There ate right of us—&TI Senior
“Oh.. iio,
Girl $smi» from Sjci-;mi<Tito, iStf&i Anrw-

bdlc. our leiailirr-"
V dim, black hatii-d will rettiriiHi tin greet-
ing.
II
What direct inn art yisj hiking? ri I asked,
t’p Rhine mr] ihen if Ho SwrLKC-rJsi ncL'
llii'
1
II
WTmdiFrftt] Jmt what plan n. du Mind t
I
L
Ef I join you?
Nt>l hit nil. \\ e d have to have you,"
W't a nation |
tn meet the next tlrty at
Outogfi* < ’rUiiedraJ. arrived on limp hut
E
Hit uirls wi ten’i

An Imptesave service w,\s
m
in
gi ruling nf a very pleasam reLitiousliip. We
Ptfcstz carried cut id hit, nuns knrit t»w on cycled iiu»etfi£r id Bad G
where wt m led «]”,
rm*\ B tJid other beautifully airbed priests spent hr in^hl brforc rmb.Likinjr for Koblenz
I
served it t he altar. Hundreds of tiiwuÂi^dr- Mis ihe Rhine steamer Lkui ,10 K VI neya rds
f |
>
1
sIi.w.h! mu tiki
1
undtjnl slntte flbtjr rhsmri tu-;

roveml i hi rivcrr bank!?, cattles crowned the
prayers Te was a ceremony full of p ,i. . :
towering crags, and finrujad it* (irmi.m In ih-

right oui .-j she mahrvn! periutf,
t layup itng iiiitBy
Ihc
were not to be found, so after pirls
wailing an hmir 1 set off along ihc Rhine I lebal if nn Aoriii i"Aint-riân AlJEditti
tmmi HlllI Goda^rg. jiiai uutiJde the i i v
We d To an EpghsJiiwiio who wlls leju)-
l-dlv
] u-.is suddenly i i
julfed by eight hkykji ^ 1
ing q group of youn^ Imiv^ on a Tour of L^r-

oDCupied T.i> L’luln ^paj'klln^ yoiiap ]j.dit*> in many. He I^Kan in ctinifiare England and
greei] .-hsi ka and blouses. t*tic Girl Seoul the 1 'ruliftl States, :iin3 iti a rrw mininc* h.nl
hail aiiivtn \n na belle eapl&tnei I W't wvr** precipiULted i lively j_tid cilLkatiutml dtSL ui-
j
delayed paddnga We ve tjeeo pedaUug like sion tnvDh iu^ Ub group nn-d mine. Wtib tbr
ynu Nf'lp ! ihp
l !l
all s^c l *ml fryinu to c:sldi up to giris deluded E ui culpm
3 ;
i
- fnirnduued to .dl ihr îrF- — ihe be- M rnrJcrl nn the frfenfl ties! resins
S
Tto btifftel at Kjihlr-rix Wii> frulginp with The strong* priH^sion — ei^ht pirL- dressed
t'niifrjlvt rc > otatiK peoplr 1 wiis r-urpriêd in rs.ully American thnpi-mn
idikt an as <
I
find my meager Genm

muk'^îKl uIjucbi k .i-s ftcL lii ana t'ty d ubl * d
.'i a ruj a
i
k’muu i
,
L i
Ik- turf we slltrEed the mixi morning I "mafimt (Peter was quickly aLceptrcl by the
found myself ad jutting tb& treats and making giris.wha cimsidereil him Jl tkr1inp‘T —wended
minor rrjairs mi the bEkra of my eight friends. Its way along ibe easl hank of the Rhine
E hiii fjwn d-ring this ffvtiv r Auft it left

I
As wc erdssed tin- choppy river on the
t'liluKUr- Vs Marilyn pul li ,
Everything ferry to HadMrmihs we .uuld at the hostel ,
wi'niii to g' i
wrong with the bikts now that i\ magEnficeriL turreted nafl]i? r brood n j lI nvrr
m
'
we haxe sianetme tu fix t tie the medieval vilkutr U was built to p-rutett.
^ (ipftfljir boy nl r ? who <*p«ike no Knghsh We n si ril imjf bikes up a sleep put but 1
]
i i It
i.sked if hi j i i*ulr1 join rue. Whim 3 infiirmfr.l fonzui rny weariness a> wr ipti*>erl rbe moat
him tbut 1 tfas tnivdlnje with right girls, hr aur] pa.msLst through wmiden rtunr-
wrinkled his hose tit dwgust, tint derFtliu I re- llttu the courtyard j;32*.
luctantly that he would anyway. Van I The c.isriL 1
w.m like am it her world, I lull
we welcomed PeCer klw nf Hannover to ûr expwn ted a in Jirrn^r i n dnillcnge us
happy gnnjp pn gr i
l.i3i vs ath a Lmie. Marilyn and 3 climbed ihf
\ G^nndfk Fiti m Fititit]} Huhfc Upfn Mulish %\ 3ll-j V[>jUiF* I 1
^ l-i ibw thf Hu-hIcE
V bril of Spay in I3sr faktn 4 r^j OHt
Wither Ncttii uImijI La: cml u| ihi Ti :, i
Ijirm. Sjiuvn ]jnj> ih? Hijn^tL'iiU
rating LinruLl^t In thi >anl rJiignr t- fcfr *in ihdr iijy Ipjjie- UK!
i I
U7
Urrak&ucling cm 2^-nE E-^ und Appl^ .tuicc+ Traveler Mikp < hit til* Din' 1
* lim-erur}
M f>-st hfi*ET73 f?Tfi pi- rU d Idfinrch juica tiLltiJK 30 tn !t- imL-.-a u « i.i
7
* ft r f i|L bn u-
Jfi t^p JO Pwrk ipisi *Jrr|ii:njE bita
dMtLUSirj-cfi by this yuiilti in ibis ratmMird m’ the ILdikEbun; h&itd urip}! ationt fli peurida*
wimisat! <t 'hr turret ;uid ItHthtil ai the Frankfurt, fhr irirl tr^YeFiT>i flu wed through
Rhine fit retched utjF la r hcliuw tj> in ;
1 J I I Is the souwnlr shops of tbe town. met When we
âmirir \[np 3 parapet a gtoufi 01 Gi ftnttH m the station, f ini] had ddicauly carved 11
Boy >ciiiite wa* sineim; rott^gg camp oongs. cuckoo cluck. Marilyn a grein kerchief with
1 1 was the hifth [mi b I uf my rrip 511 fur. the eTestr nr the \\ (fi-ntum Stated, and
Jflftn was ttnbHfly a dainty lull] rtEiinftat
A 1 r 14 r V 14 il licjd GlTTNHin Tllliyv I JirnlraÊ
bingen.
After supper, while bonHrr-i Bronx all over Tin? hostel it Fmalcfurl v*\v> Icirê mid a«#p
the wnrid sat n round the great knighis' luilt. with u beautiful patio imd even hot witter
:i string barf I of Crcrmtkij youngsters âye for shawer*. An it ttftnrrJ mat, ihr dulii girls
Eôncen of folk stuig^. I I'mixed the $xb inirr writ Ilj 1 hi' -ijmwerv first h leaving me with .1
situ in-.- .j fen \fTttJrfau melodies. Thttir-ftpft iJottdedlv

T
iLikewarm suakitiu-
"L
harmonies went in Luntrnst with the lively l nuiming was brill luiU anil iluuri-
he i-texj
tiemiaifc riiu.sh Gu DuufUi Mo&et*' ended a !

ti 5 s Fjeidjell^g was 3 D miles jin nth rin j
fc
nvi mi LtrrlTi i
evening ijlrjilghip lint road* and hdt«T i delightful
Dcspilt pirrteriti ihnE be didn't pbii in go te&umf rifle wy cj kd Into ChL* hnitt'l by J r
i
lu Frank furt. J'rtrrfimiLil hjitffirlf mancuVfcrF'ri o'clock.

onli.i 1 i
>temnrr wr IxmnJed (he next after-
ji
1
noon lor b inner, We knew that the real Felipe Fraud -if Scnot Pin
reason bir hh? reluctance wu 1
? [liar he couldn't I Veer Imrl i^rown very fond of the jdrk. hut
:tff« irr3 iht The mus-i irsrmiii^pnikinic
lure. was too shy to admit it in their pre#nci“.
tiirJ SeLMjis pretended they didni uftdeMdnd hi tht: di 1 m is . hi * wv v*t F fie ti eve r f a i lei J 1 1 ? *h<. \ w
ki> fin>E^t<. U']u.'H be Untied desplerately to of Efip Cun Sen lit, p[u thev had lilvru hi.m
me j** tnmshite. 1 shrugged ^houfdeRL We
niiy TFif: îrF li‘ft 1 he nrî iJny hy train for
nil chipped in For In- Li re and the A {ijrfwjt Munich, but we ptiumed to meet in Ltmlnu
(iipplr jnsoi i we had on the huL in three da> t dedekd to Hwmi r tit: day
'I hr Mriune r f I rt
>| jj m i ns* sff .1 1 I L in gim where si^hi^ceing With I'r/itir
we had an hour before the Irani left i-«r Tnkinii pinturK in Kdddl>rrg\ Unhrrslfy
i "
^ Toly's. .3«' .V' .
feSi- ‘<^lb
JJ
ju
A
'V
I B r
1
''i
htchl, 1 arddeidy surprised wish, "Hey. Soon wu were rm our w;iy through ihr
}*rt hi y lx vv you l teen? ismiuuii Slink Fuivrit I Jnisr an-iui of i
.ill
Ei w.is SyTi i Mil It Li': wIuftti ] IlhS hul <tH*n pints Mi m If. lull'd ivilii mil I ti t* in Erl ifuileH wfih
mikc i 'niacin! T bt\ both sported hniml-ncw lEtrmbi The raid prew steeper. the
1 1- h'fhi iên r Too uitiMi, 1 IlliI m m ll i-> I . tlK:?e vistas more rfia^TiEUct'iH I >iii[n[hÎ im- \
hra vv tea I hr; r s tli Hi ^ iTcuSed j'nh'li U rly

I y;i vf Fi£ picture of u p.trtirul rK ETnimsrdvc view i when
tile WIMICr Iju)^\ llh^k hi Li lll't Lin t hc*F. tvui I henrd ii familiar voice "Hen - }*** jpniis
I rim ULl-U. T;ilkiiiL> .ill :il Utc SliEltf liniff. «C ahviiVS LakinL: j>ei Sims.*’
t \ Liberan l ly ivn un> and Kl rr cd
i I 1 1 l ,
[
was Syb and BifF, <iHi in thtir lctferhusen
Ii
with another promise to writ* when we re- ‘[ [J] m nhi

L
van were on Vvaur wa\ in Gar
P p
Uimrd Iwftw* suLvi.h, soiil 3 That 7 MSG unite* turn licit

Liiirk the rest motidnji [Vtrr uml E pedaled ‘Wc Wfir . Iiue wi ?] n Hood fide to
ihmLSeli Heiitelbcrp to the . , where Freiburg in li trunk uTin t we decided Lu take
a'h mi chi i i k(i J in h rei bi| lk ,
'
I
p tii e
'hul ve^pi t i the Ion*: way an nmri.
w here we had planned In end up, but wt were flit linfili 1 ! nt ’nii-.r w.L- nil hut they
in no Eunoh ui quibble stmi me hi a nriir-bv f;irm where for LO cent*
1 l
I . 1 1 1i i wri?cl to spent! the ni«hi. L y[imi-!

the 1
1
i
burner"? wife mio !lir lam lirhtre i In-
pflinifd 1 ii pile nf hay in o corner mwl
bade me ^cKwIiiijihl. Two other hcjsJeltr* were
a! ready :udeep. As f frlied my rlb.r\ , I liHsunt
OAm Ioiu nf el slLa|kr mnvEuj* urn l he*
WiilL < hit- took tolrl me it was only j. lort^-
li^ni spEdrr walking across. niy IMillfpit

lens. teemine with H ridets.
The barA W&
gnisshuppersj :md living btiu's, but 1 dept very
well indeed (page AG). I
Syli, Biff imrf EVfcer started out rari> thr

next day the Mrh for t'iarniiseh and IVw
prom few to meet tne In Limbi u. where the
Smuts were waiting,
Mined Bom pirree^ » T.otui Ride

1 r i K jk a imih In Rupstaiu on the BotJrfi
mi tv (i* cnicb a
See. vi'hrrr c five minultt I Juitl
fittj.mt'! Id Lindau. Tire station wbs cniwrlnl

My Stivkimtf Wtts buffly 50 yards away but
the trucks path ami ju-1 :is I
sy m my E
reached them ibe bai.wtf lowered for lui uft-

romniK train. plfaded wish iJtr ûanl \mi I
lie only shrugged Ms shoulders, The barrier

finally lift i'd hH ns ibfc vessel Wt the dock
There wus nothing far me to Ho liul taSoe
n boat ra l-'rii^rl rfcTl^Jtctlc-n ntul fiethd 14 miles
in LiiuEau in the chilly flight . i t r But tin-
uunjuii with EHJ fiitfl su.iut iTieucL- ir*d Felur

made it worth while.
The ri'xE morning we said a suU funrwiT
rn | 'Hit dfiee hr inn I no ji^pUEl to cm-o thr
In irder, d^np Arfl wj-
AFtr'f a final I
1
tt‘p>
,
i
out tin the Austrian horde mi uur wav V

i
to Switaerfiuid, I brifitedintely resumed
oli role of bicycle fixer upper

I This utar
*m& jumping th.it ciurin r-Lippinu. tin-
other wheel was wobt iling, It wan like old
times,
m
* OifnberH Hike
J lantfnm*
-.Li .!
]-'urb tilth hi Face
Obc ! ^wiirtTliiml's tiiMt

fimnuv ii mttjml wall ciF
ft^dr m n I ^bovi
\
t Signed viUli't
if Vh nei n path kadi

tJj]=
in iLi EigL-j CJaner, 1 u lu: 1 1
i h rt tit iipc and ttii'JW nt ?brr

I>4_hi' t>| l tic tm?Unlitti TlWPr
(hr jijilmr iietil hl,i L'amfAnlow
|wlt .I I lifir. ilp-uHltl 'SilJj H^DW -
cm h 't July id V !
pajzt?
diil
-* * ’ju -T;r ^nhli r. -!n |j in
1 llfisletet'i rt]l cfliajtjifyr Lb

> * .
T. rvi u i to .idlust in Hit : tie w <: u rtencj vvrry

tihiif chrmjjri:) cn uniries conEH^-i t I he- girb
1 b >w mn n y S i'
fciMi ei j
l=llI n ZJ> if
F
n
1
jl/rj^r
‘^VHai r;m you trtiy fur GO rrrtifmr*?"
Îs 6.000 CôJcAirfil ns much as it stsiinds?"
Tbo fr:m Ifr"illy dWCfajJ the
tables, sbruêd their ^qoUi^. fiftii derided
in Ir't VntifibelU" i-nniJiiuc ImurllinM the mnin:y.
Shnritv after p
tfi- entctnf HwfiftddJOid it wa*
tintf tu (wri rtâLin, this tbite preaimuibly for
good/* I was Euttift to Lnzmi. Intfrlftrn
am\ then Italy, while my fair .compaHii'ui-
i
i4niifrl imvrl thmuitti TiOrthcm Switzer bud tu
France Aûn iIl*- fin+'wriU rmrl ilii> |imin-
|-j> En writp My uhln--- i>»k. iL wa* Li LiliîTiiZ
Ai Si. OftQeii I I cj« k il tr:iin tu Lttarrn,

What scenery t It was ihr (Vrst time had 1
sêiL i tally hmh nmjritamfi. Snaring rtaggy

h, 11
* Sett £wif Iceland UurJtIa L *1 Fumble.
li> WUPflui H M If bob tv (ijJ-rt-LVPllJr 5t UI-
,\zixi 1950.
Condi A ns OUde
CcEcfrfLlfiftJ ^ | li
Dm i ? i
the
Set-hjce
Grand Onml,"*
of VtDK$
'Italy s most noting rit? ," Ifir iKulhor rnEb \ rhss'Tp.
RipE l* J12 wftTca,

|,
!: jflft :ruhar itiw-j - -ihd 1
\ivbh m;r-
\t\t patio?* muir ii fair''laml" fpttpn M41 Th GraruE
t’jnal *\ i
ht- tlir cfp ln(u tjiUci |u.,tl \mu9-. Th ’’"j-
\THT-n'1ri Hint' ti nl San r.inreio Mipgksrt- lirfi* uci
kbml LiE-ju.iiîi- List fiiifjttti of Si. £4j.ri„
+ Mr N'.mI tin 'Hr ntiuiU IcaI in tin iniiEr t?t canals,

flmife. ;t l|.L|iiJt
s
lKii»jk. sbzi if lljrpVf hJg hirJlJ rthtxi vbi-
1 iL|' I iu lii££ ISEILL LlIllAJ ih 1iJ.lt iiLiriJRF' s h i* bncfco,
m
I h -
Cupped with sjusw. si ijmjtI out umiatu* M rhiassn mu I he Swiss- Imlbii fninli-r a ml
rally Lika- aixdfHwtail -4a>;i ft>iU *( .iwair -i tin Mill, n i ruin for LatUcrbriimun by way of
li'vd Like mi tun Lhnjlijdjh which We were Interlaken *
^kEmmin^
\{ ihe Luzern h-usie! I mvi Bill BmvrJeji Tmirs SullIus. Uu^d \ liumi hti*
from Funiui? I nivtf_4i\ walked near

wj- The trip v. .l-. the must v rsim I Ly cxcilmu l
11 i iiviTb i
! hriU-ji . wi- Witf jttuppHsI by an at- had rvi:r ukrn. The train willed it* way
ttndh i:]y dressed woman. toward She very heart uf thr Mp- It ran
I
i:Id yuLfc tel] me wlui time it is?’’ thrijuiih sin. il.M imsn valley between moun-
‘l
Vea. iVs 2 : 2 Q/' tains and then pnraiiotoly huRKfed she side
"My hid L'
illji ii <ud be'rl Ik here ,\i kiQ> of the same rrumnlttit^ botuiR down on. the
Ht-,s probably buying one uf ilict*r cuckoo -imHnh, river -gaiffoied fWkk below, \\i- -[cd
docks with tM llttk girl un Mw Firing- I flliuig a twrl-jNi-ts-T take and then slowed
can't stand them. They Mtm alive. Kvcry- to i bumping ctjwI a* the cug* n-n s-pj-u .1 to •
thing ihrm seem* to nmve.

a>n qel UR LsJ EL Si rep incline,
i
Just then a burly 6*(oal-4 hunk of Texas Lauterbrunnen is ;i tiny village wi-rlyt-il iti
M riMtr up. rut iJirf-r? mountain*.

.d flint toy I hupped of!
Luuk, hunt!}-." He held up a box juM i ha I fain and iwktd heavy-?* i I cigar -miikri
wi Mil :lih I got us the cutest l utkoo dock you for direction* Lo ihe Isubu-L
ever did sogj* He pot Hed high up a jifith-tovureil mcaiij-
i
Bil; .itu f walked quietly :iW4y. tamside,

r<* make iriîvr litne^ J ?Ji|p|jed my hike "Sere ih;d lilt ltd roof up three? That*
jpl
It-
9
,
Kit rope Vijn rhr I Imivl Route M3

ir„ You either mt tk up nr Laki- I he railway hit iif ibis trip cmisbtferi of irutkilnij fiienih
u> that town on top of tfem mountain and arid hen sayiim go mil JVC pn thrni.
1
w;ilk riutm.' Fivt* jjyKirl hitchhikes took me in cne day

With my saditfabiipca dung over my slumldt-r, the inline >1 Gotthiird Fa® and
J trudged up th-e twisting mail U\ j typical lltta CUiS50 where
was reunite! with my r
3
Swiss cbuJet Itn who hud ji mimed to meek 1.iii.vlIc\ crtJssed the IjurMer min I Lily with
I
w
,
V' Jm
me be-n.-, appeared and led ihmngli |u tlir out difficulty and seuti w'iv= hiking ulunn in nn
I'tin h. I c4itghs my hmith Eefoti? me wik fifth
j
T ’upiptan cnun.tr>.*
± putiofEUTia 1 chilli silver furgeL I hv hostel iti .Milan held a type trawtat
r.if
AIjouI five miles away was a seemingly 1

i l JT-pjc 1
: t f foiri those 1 hatl met itt Ck^rmanv
inipeiwi; table wall of stone amt suw, t3ie There were no very young giiU ur boys, and
beautiful junpfiau, Spread nui he low us and no organ wd i^toupia.
lery-liiig like a PuM tn fht; Jungfrau > luê
fttr idled till? ifrifen velvet flour of the valley. New JapciieiKE in I'lMim!
Little sjaeck's i he houses of LaulerbruiiEen, Iti the krtchuti 3 Futind lt i
r| fueling a thin
i foiled 1 io r li sides oi a gudiifu: si team. Acrtu&s skiu from an bnldîtittabl^ "bifct, I asked
the valley wns souther wild mownum wall, wbju il wai.
dimgted wifli tall trees and la^rt! with An octopus ‘
:-he lui^wes’ei I .
wiih a French
ihin, mow-led wul&fttlb which hurtled hum fHCCBIt.
dried** "f fcui di iwn and dbapptatiul in j. cloud 1 mu-1 Lunfeii Lhai it Soemb kink va j n
of spray. aiipetkiSg.'' I rajcL
Painfully inching ii_^ mly up the mountain- Ah. but wait till 3 am done. 3 mil let
side was a rîliray. kirakitig like a very old you naîe it _
:
men climbing an tmdtai ladder. Ml iLlL \ftrr she brnT railed bread crumby and ic in
afternoon, large iltiffy dmjtij itiwpd in ddfr frieil it, ^he ufLend rneu phir. 3i w^shriv-
imitkm acn^s the inieitft-ly blur- sky. Latet* v

5 r:-x! I Inly SiraElr?! Uy ItraR Gen IMIiui
jiu> the sun *pl r
rile jagpd pc-aks caught fire, l-Jr-taai
1
tlirnLu, Ninum Genuji.u.oui il,\, AirîK,
vil-r.ii ii;>: sjii rn’lity in impotable luxes of orange J unv. UMf?
and red.
TIic ilvaI murning. Will ami L with twp I ir i
-
mitt) drt and an e|ip.L^l octuple friim Ihd-

punv inked tn a gketer ttrar the
It wa* hot anil we >01 m stripped down tu T-
‘hlris tir blouses.
Frequent l) we heard .1 dktsjj± t tmtflTftd remr.
Weil look up qukikh just In time tu sjcf a
JugMg crack form 11 ;i hunt chunk of show .
I
dither rniidly down the tufumTain walk

I anally we rr.uhr.i the ktnei lihiLier. where
wv jw-lEi'd ttirh l uHft with mo * Mal1
i-, for h, lI f
.in hour 4. age l.iS).

Thr nuv( day Bill anti 1 went out uwri wayi-i,
It occurred to nui as we aJuirik hands, that n
Itofcr 14:
*" PnM qnd Preiiirt Mcr^c in tW
i"Sea.ut^‘ flf I’ IhMVijci'
b-iiuTUnK rtn u ruuu^p, rlir aultmr pho^mjafci ! Mir

ri.Lr» ilc Ik StpnniiiL, polo el llL til klumii:?
'’li |i Hi Hi wrr rMu U'lii 3 mini dê MpilihKr
% CLtliiil. llii- 1 11 , : Sm.1 11 Halt >iVEO[ih» .ifiiJ -;lI vr-
• iIjil Baitfilfcmcei \nuiiiinaiE j hujjiiin oi
iiirnrrd l>uk j E.'ut1 ™h I t h If- »j lumirt litu il bf|
Hi. f(#nrkr -rnnipiiiili ot lt\* ttkfia dmrrh flml Mir
tiiiEi 1 i>| i.hr Bjirpehcj imiiiifUHi utoVc izrusikil
pUii rimili Tht hills m Fkpklc toms green ba^kfirnp
-+‘ v ^.lj^jj’l- : iNm md !« f
imurnF (he T'.itui**
N'rcchlu lEllixt iiL khir sutuilases ul ilu tf^rti hcwli K i
I j
iirsiil Shm^-' l.nse SltJcpcT» +

Funt Puurifr in JiLiolintf MoitmiL 1
! E cm tel
TliC LlJlcll- r JiSjutU" j|i ujh N- : l[t ht>v It tSti’Mi'l At
r.ietu boy< r-iiinil iru t h=L? hrdi and luin mutt r Lid!
'V iiinn Im watch Llit Mlmi J uimuj* l!bc Irre v|e«i:ii r

I’ht author wnEcbetl a sfillholI with
iJruliin iJ-th ItuFka libJueuc.
'
0 nieJiT lnrhmii -h ifii* ? •hvcl hn^rl ahpui
111 irhl.
i'll ii .Hid rubbery ami lifted like

stitflops. U W'a> Jill Nutf ultlidnuf
The En ,Tti ilriy 1 explored Milan. 1 was fas-
! innii il he thr- immense rrhlnwJ >Linnh Jtr- <
iiLirkatrly CiitMtnl the charming

LlI Scali Museum -uli i
House, ihd Ube
roomy M castle m the park.
Buck hospte] I 1i*3« itr-i dieckfi? in fWr
at ihe I
Ihr second msht when two fccmflig|- vnfees mnn

nut. ‘Joe. ynu uli mâT'' There was mi I
ntffd Eu around. inm ^yl i irud UilT h-icl turn id

up once more,
‘'(iWf P it > ifriin.1 ru set you chit meter? aifaim'
‘j
Tli-e n ] tiH'ik u unuri look, r)li rui yVju’v* col
1
your \m\r* ft? na short &$ a lujy ?,. First

Inkrhuscn and now tjiliun Ilije 4U|.-, I You
sure are hrmftiEiiji cnnthierintL"’
‘'Now, Joe,* Biff said injw etatly, “you
kjuiw tbit underneath we're ?nl! mir luispnilHL
uny.iphiviiral^d Mflm.
ninm itig we didn
\\ lij-u wir twirled tlw nc\t 5
even bother to say gootlLive, just wave and ;i
“r ”
he teeing you
El
E I dctaliikinu tn Ycfiiu-e
J nfaipiît my hbbr l" rmperifi H -mall inwn

mi the Julian ftfirfcru 7'J miles MurJiui-i oJ
( jftijr.ia. f >i t->xrU it: .-hurl* .i.d w[|h an Amen-
utii rtag hanginfi from my 1 *L
b
E
nff lo Mtchhlte to V e nice, 160 miles from blnek dog. women taming om oi windows
Milan t shrsuifi] to those Wuilkfttg Ijrliiw* biirstj? rff
Efifbs ride* inter, at o o'clock. dully and l.iughtcr friTue frrim bars. The arew
hungry.. I jrrrvei I in Venice. Two hoL raps lonelier und rinjkrr,
Hi coffee ancf a dnughiiul revived me spirits 1 Atlifly fuumi my aildresi #i,vyn£ tjpen
i (Ji"
uiiliy Mil phy^foLlly, but it was unnecei^ iliior. an >.l wm lift bv
r
a dank. mii*iy
f
smell. At
Srtiy Frn the ride down llse J^rarsd i 'anal ot the ersrf ofhnlhray a weak
tilt- piTrh-bla. k
Wilier wmilil h ihnv ju*\ well hare bulb iffuTTif mated n ?haky stairway
If was ftLin liind. Itliie an^l ^rerii iliUM|| r
iphL i
-
I walked |
up two HtgbLi to st dimly lit tbmr.
itlunsinatciJ the fantastie ktci'W^k uf mtifotced ivirh many jmn dn]7s. I kjuckeiJ
llje Hie rippling of ihH waves I hr jnd ivnited. Ever}"thing no mobwl m -
flfi-ft music uf utuan auhar*. mi L he shadowy, maiic. "All 1 titfd now.'

1
F thmtghu “Is to
îlem tii.milol.s" hr cutting bihlib bn him h i
I have a wrinkled nld face petr out cautionsl},
water all merged into q serw f rum unothcr The iLillnes.^ lastnl fur long monirni^ and
wdtW^ 1 fijutiij mystl i ancunsaouvly Ivimi- tlu-ji 1 hmnl ibrL-r heavy holts being lid npm*
mm£ thr Barca rolle“ |40^, dê A wrinkled uld face êsed Phut ruu timidly,
woman
'
'I'he Jifir-§ip-l is lull, bur I wn.- gj^tn an 1 'he i

ltd sbmrft her head when l indi
a 1 1
1 1 P ss -y im ew h e , l h m.g r 1li j
; l n-i l> i lvji water- rated with qr -it lire that t wanted a bed. (ust
front whitFe might ^t| a J^d for tbr in^ht
I her loil, I l^l i • IrrisEiLL* ttcjiiu'w mmc In thr iJuot
As 1 walked, barefoot has weft- hiissny a l *
and. in Knud Ert^bsih pdliely Invited me in-
1
3i\iv. J entered t room whose d;i borate inlnfel w-Ti it to ii syrifp tinny concert in I he sqiwre.
iloorf Intricate ilcriirmhm*, ami 4 m tr vwaeus My licit ship wits t'Lffrnce. 1+0 mite dis-
hfnird mi: .1 lone -lust ktîuLput. tant 1
1 jL r- r
14J] This day my ridte were
_My aunt hivj> the beds lire :d 1 taken by quite varied: a sewter driven by an elderly
l toys f rum the boatcl But w* cmim pul u thin wnman wfth sleet,
a slow liny irotffc hat 1
1
:1 1 ;i
Til Ml I It 5r l>tl E !li filrrir [l Will ft[>t be !'n‘ C<im- Renault with two pt]ailiii]D| himne>sineri,
fori.iljfr but yon are wriiiiiur til Ji A pam-l truck that developer! A flat tin? twu
I accepted Kbrlly, ami fell asleep os sooti minute:- nftej i hopped msidt?, u liny ltiiEiara
my head touted the muttieF*. troupe wbetffe T wn£ tekMd(|fld Tnlu the I mL
\ with »i nutp. ^punl wo days rum- I I 5=ejl with a pi:irid]+ who eyed me with a iiiitai
'
flaagfti urinmtl \hc city 3 rum tbr :.-!ueii- in St, rkjj ill Til e --
t
Mart'* Square, whefii the pieemi* easily mit-

ULunbered the pcuple. I lu^Fcl \ it: Ids FriumN
When UEiparlu'd my suit,. which had re*
»
Tn ihr Florenvc hostel T made new friends,
nuiinrd neatly fnldwl for days ac rhu but M Thenc wre Mux,
studem a Swes* business
lircri r«F my earner pack. found rtinL tie I Brure, & ti-iJ-Jiitimi inaihrmniHjin from ihio: E
c:rsM.w- tverr mi well Hrfmetl that h ^ inked u- Jody -md Miriam, Iwn hmtlj ei rU who hud
II it were made tip of fool -square sheets of fuuubc fur ihrir country; Marslui, .1 Bulib
blue mend, After half an bum of mdustriiMt# more tire hi textural student; Send and Victor,
Fnminu ii looked ahno-t respectable, imrj |
ivvii Parjjims: Him j JsiptmtSft \Tttencan
Kai I I.S. IP n, *
I 0-IIUIU
An Emperor^ Uufiumv»t Ttfh'iiring \bM* :i Plavii Remind* Untlcm firman* itf Tbcir Hcrff^
[Kirainiilin; the fiaut Cntdiinn ihl* cdutnn tirjctois, ilurcu. \'-nd|u. SjiiriJilui. prUti* -!h-|!iLi hU vh inn^ S|_ J* 4l .
£fuwit> tht îaII i Ardfihtj^ri. KUtlnl iKihnf khi. fvnr trirorm^- Tw nrfi-^ba rfailv jitijtrn
' 1 | 1
1 1 i " 1 1 v at
l.viropc \ hi rht- Hiistel Rm^rc M7

C;dii"niia: and others We described WHTf our supfjrr besirfc our newly
W
ji >i3tt
iiiiil
on Evr lands, In Id what
i i
I
*
_ . i
_ i-i In [>i -li iljiI clebsiics*
We did buck
Hfeffc
hi unr.
was
m.i led shelter.
catitM:
Ibr ne.\t niomirs n car
lUmlly rtspdttdgd to my wuvi aid in threi
tibe of he biggest ad vantage* id Hfiifclfmb
t
*
bouts wbs in t it \ii Fount arn.’- I

1. 1 14
1
t.
f nil ifn connici- with the youth of iht World.

1 Willi ptihii jm uttd labloi scl to
i art atirac-
I*
1
to rence coiHaitis mmy art treasures* hoi 1 1

ve !
>;j do , the M * mi e \u isttd I : act ; i cm i snl ry -i u 1 1 1
1 he u TfC which wa - the 1 ri-rii.lt mos-t vividly ui itio.sjjlu're, but it was full, 1 we id i" a
> 1.1 sue u[ I tty Mkhelanfirlo. A v
>. i.
- i uu-
r I 1 ptfto Xian
u-nd ihe UaHesT oF lhf Academy <>f Fine 1 lie re w 1 ,.^ mudi tu &te to t he Ktr r 1 . 1 1 Ci ty .
V i : II *aw Ehu iiLLi:_nlfkenl marbSr fiuut i In the United Slates wt marvel at cnfnnial
but bn;! in bicht .11 the cruel of a subtly Hi bull hoinc^ perbhpd 200 yi.-.irs old. nil in Kurdpt I
[ was in moved that, tike many Pifebers e hr fur ii Mur yiast is always in vi*™
-
lien
liTMiinil mi* t Mil iIkivti ml! peB7iv[ mcdihiLlvirly andeaH hbi-iry L-.in hr B - 1 ifec bt^rl .
enti:i-d r
ai this Itniprtn] i. t eat Mu us mu rial mim. limyi'd Itrfnrr, Hwd in, c.itvn ai, w^lki'd
and <iili;iE over iopposEtffN
Tr'iuhk !
le
ai i S i l 1 * > * r
1
1 rfi
W hi M tatggdiitii * 1 i I
- -i «mli i r uF pJdrb*j' <1 1
'I'lir ami phind? of Ftorunfe kl^ near tbf Ccilosseum- t saw three in
with nil Vririetst-- tsf leutbfrrwork. f runs matrix i
9 inikar green out rushed up Eli \nnii-
III- r
b'Hik 1 1* handling-!. A little taggffilK 1 1 * IM M ;in Ty n . an d Red 1 he iir Si, iai^_ £ I
with the vendor* wyielded; three nit rams vet "What ure you dotak in Rcum r I .tskrd
IftUtxikigs a I h&rpm price*. dehehtlidfy.
1
You were mi your way t-j Paris

"
The b&£> were mo bulky tr« carry with u\i\ whtHi you its Swum hcurl I left
sm wrapped Them
1 for miffing. For 45 min- VYu were hair way thn>uj^:i Switzer Luai'
ute- f wo:ked on that pacLagi?, fijilihlnp with Red answered v him iVr det:irJiwl .-wir trip
u drmble blinding of von 1
lifting cutcL would lit- Lrur^niplHe if ute didn't see Italy
E im next ruiirnlnfj ] liruLr^hl my Indistruct^ Si i we took .l traisi down be rr. h '
hk package Ecu the post oriii r The four i if Hiuret! themwnificHit hjitls
“ Bm ju^nurc.," the desk -Liid politely.

L,
ii a nr! agreed to meet the following dgtf nt St.
rsikidt I Hr reiibtt'iiul by I he ctisliam oAkcr.
1
I
:- - PrajKii iti VtiLtkajt Tiiy.*
At ter half an hour'* ufoan H-arch found 3
the tushfms office on the olher side or inwn. I’wft Qiii'i it*? the E'tJitmain
k,
U i.S in-a^'-_-iry thru wr inspect the con- There, in tlie vain piav./ai where ttie IVtpf
Sen is, 5fdd che lmîiiilnui illerk* You will -^| icuks to cr-twds from the b-detmy of St.
plejiH? tsnwriip the parka ge. Peter's Church, we brQD|^ll wth irtbcr up
ii wiis rm( rvqtiini.1 uf nsr whim I Is* d sil^ r m riu r t faVr b Then we e > pb i rei I t he
mailed n wmibf parcel in SwLlzctLiihT'’ 1 Vatican muMiurn^
pmleNtvlL Tbiil rvuuinu l^lspud MurOyrj and L walked
'BMhaps, ho s now yoif nri^ m Italy down to the wofld-renowii^l Fou^taiii of
plepe. Trevi and like countless utters before os,
Siidlj Oil had made the kllnt5
Eight they couMn'! be imnud.
I
After ihe
m WcL I tossed coins intm Lh^ w-ate: (|)uge
f
HSj.
,b
I II uicrt ymi tu Rome in a toupte nf
in-iu-Ltisr 1 Li 1 pm ! the pucka gc. I repacked year-, I said-
everything The cruel bti*w came ufcn "
lii?i t "(Jl;ay. it's . promise
was ehu run ?0 tin by the nffjcud for a I new I hurried Marilyn himir l-h (be YWCA lu^l
j
inn, e ot cord? • H'i i'ru itie mir.ltifpdiE curfew ITie ntxi ninm-
ini3 the eight wriifetrs M-r nut h^r Vnstj$
in Home* HjjfCor> U lêS’iile ^ on
On mv hir-l niahl in Runic tw friujn I- mu I
l WU5 ptp"i !s
1
i l t I i'lLtltl liiu lihlke Lo Rojoe I followed the crowd lu the mEn^ uf the Biuh-
in unis da v but j‘
mv A-
lack ran out- Du-k f'-umd -if i
uan Way to ?vee Jtti
'afutailn alofig the Api I
me in the lonely of central Italy, opera lirfe. The vast 5taê was sef buiwttflS
h; 1
1 1 way ret w een F uence and R* rmr 1
- ^.e run d I iwn i**d> i>.sa1 collpims nf thr lialhlmuse, com-
near ;t -riialt with the chiÊa h-i^ttd pEeted A Ik _37 A capacity audl(!ftte si
fits wmidfu viMU undur the clear sii^Jii k
Sly luik -;mit'.’d as I met a youttg
Frenchmafl who hud ulftri run out oi rides. He ^S«r 1
I'lir Stn-HHisC SfjiLf in the WippIlI," 3 jj W

ruk'nviin \cvib, Nvtiu% 4| CaEiKiupicir
had ii pup tent, and within hidf an hour we Msirb. 1 >.' >.
J
fll
Fa^n]
j^| «
fL 111 ^
r .—
-
a ItSb • S
*
% * ’ ^
H
1*
;
*-m, a
M
a a
WK'.
aijr
If*
au
a
^pj]
r" r
Jj
1
"P
?wk ®
"®
imp
% «
j
r
l 1
3E3 \l,P
* J *
-"
^ ’
’
Si
•
p^p
1 PI Jr
jk \
i M^
jy
m fyr jnr W
v
Mr
|
-a j -
* "
14b ’II If ntFllI,' Hi.r. .mi •

IT A ill 1 * I ! * M HI r
ft'imiA Fouiftmn i>f E r^vi (lut-chca the (kiin-f of liofnanritr Ti'iivultit*

III \ht jJepMipSiiur visiinp Ujmh « a rnj-n in E r« thwe mUus, hi aill retom, rridiTiftfi pci'HirMwi YwiFnpslm who mh our
Mir mu nr’, profit mi -t i ruin thi- cmhillt Ncptuiu? ride* a vvio^L’il i hartul 4lHJVf (hr hldri,
1 L « I
S’!
T" '
"
,
Lt *“
_ 1
jj L 1
L '
U9
"Elmv * Imi \ I lll’Ii
'
Trau luh H i
wSili - Sidewalk \1 tn'ctuini b Laitim. 1
-*
Ipt fiismla: til Lump? b tiTTiil ^H | ||.

h
uU 3 l|J- muhtjr*
H
hul I wiU Rftrllnf Llttlr ilicnsi wltis
I hb ru^-rtnfc] u I Si'ii h A irk -in 1 1 in ci 5 hi A Lkc l'Iih hw tier a t fell
’ 1
cidk c i r my ail I
a. m*| .1 1 1 lm I
i
in i ; rj m 1 r r
I - mi 'TL tirln nuiiiliK Etic sttVElf kiutclcl winch I Haler tllirifrawdi
The y ill* m nil rulm in the hadtgTuuiirJ Were The mst mo mini: I look .1 buj to Suttentn,
fuTft^l prop.* fi if ihe iimnml of the whtniJ? ii IhjlhI sfl.iln.l to the Me of Capri. The
uium li wes a wnitJerftil tKmri* U> my stiy way ihi 1
bus tore anmnd ihc nartnw iinuimta ti
tn Rome. mad made me iltuilit wefd r-.MLk nut lihHtLim-

I tfrnt by tniin to Nilples :in*\ mt to Pom linn Hp'Tti blrjwirt^ -evau ^ U* he a presequi-
j
destroyed when Ywsuvi'u* erupted nearly
‘ci l
i
site for u d river V licence iei ;j I
L of KimUpe*
^ Tn ie in*
1
1
i > K acava tiui! hits' e oik- vvrj-(
i r Hut ijrm r Ih Ml hi- hajid fnirn rlitf fi^rn nnly
ninny of thr temple* aHfl vIILl^,, hut tatbsr wten makliiir jiutlculaf ly dih'ituh imp .9 |
xrfjo&s uf this ancient ftniv'eyiitiJ are will Out fi'lry c^TTiril.i m|J|i> trnU]l mT hrjli<luy* 3
haH buries! urn let ash acid pumice slime. makers to the twin peoktd chLHik oa lirncetime.
A n>y with an fttruriKon j? aycd iTidimi
I 1
Sun Accents Tc'ufitc- AtniuApticrc

in the hack of the Fuml and a_' we suuj the
The brtliisfii iim lutol untuciMl the mi a Iff led Ed rnval tlm tmusn
icaJJs j.jli ll tiled columns In a world with nti which stemeri pasted nn the itmirni&lftside.
middlt 1 .nits mi ly ilirk shadows and id-triim ujtr hhv al io\ r the other.
hi [^blights The hi cork fitturts of the visili ns A- 5-rwm boded 1 w:i^ smwl with the E
walking ip Mir .dLLLEie -msIv brightened -
enmd fciitii Mir ftmictilsu îtHlirin. A i .ihle rar

peil'a strange feeling u( rWtb, iartinl u* up hi Lht hra-n of Capri, calk'd by
.%irp rufiiitot to the mm- my nuM^bcHik J,
Tn. tfe hostel Tht* Yacat soiilaiMJ of Mfllion-
near SutTEtlco. Perched on a cliff uyertuokilifli iisres "
E\pcpdve rest4 umnts. and
iIn- Ule me CiprE unif sumiu ruled li> tush snivi'l aKencies lined the apotfes? street
'.! :fi:i!inri ii wa* jII tlint hsmptdi was not. Tanned. Illu'i tLâmti i- Oioristswufc tht biTest
Oji Lht 1
rru.ky, hk irk -binder I beach E washed -pari - cMhfss AiiiJ from hi^h tm iTiîiitt-
off Puntjjrii dust u! centuries. inm J could see a v;i>t f

H »*j j ti*y of ymdita,
a 1 i
ISO Tht: \ .u i-mnf

T
Cfcogni]ihii NLigftrtne
mnEitflHtai*. ui-rl -.i illii ur.< in ihr- fan astir, illy

i pjiEnt-ruven i ciiicd, marie pedaling Sjtrimijoys
f
dear water of the Oulf of N ap1is After CJuBlng tht- border rwvHlj", 1 en tCT«!
t imned iJdwd the Btfrcdy borutHiil cliffs Munte t sjiilo Thr f u ^ ('joinii hfejttll jttsl s.^ 1 1 tr i
En :i pebbly bctidi when* l chunked Inlu

iitfiuil the way 1 pictured it while. rhhomEi'ly
biilnmu (rtittlo and mingled wilts tin? BU.inl- Htttimtt'd, staldy. and T .. loo esjj«?sive. 1
£ktd crowd \ ;nnri in tOvimp goggles emerged tiPuMftl Etlunl to pay 3Q0 tmnes admission
trnm the water, draîn^ n pood-slzed octo- m ]• 0 Cc mi thr gaining rooms.
pus hud ‘tpffflreiL He toe«trj hr dipprr*
*
<*’'
E At the hostel rn Sire I met u youth frnm
crentLsFe- Jui the- In-ach nmr tnr. where is o* lli iti w]in w.-v aEntlying enuintft'ring in Paris
casftMidTly Lulled nut wi' nkl y ivit li a IdULtlle. Hr ?\ "ikr FniriFh with el soft French. accent
I Ivfi I hr beach to Ihr iKtoj.ii,?- and took Eh*? Thai night we >uimErFptl .lEnug the tntnili^
I"*flt back to Naples vrbrrc l cau^hi a train Rromenade flip Auglnts^ fasonated by the
lo ft MW. Tiicht life of this f li j"i aei I r i rt 1 1
rw n r
Jn Caaritfs E hcttfiietl :i -leitiner for the

Ha-ck tn the Hfc^lc Island nf Ste. Marguerite, visible: ^ti tile tin If
T spent iht nipht ip Rorm- ofld Ht by Emm uf S |
h r j \ i Kh i : i u r mt of I hr sheer clifts of
tht neat morning fur Genua. 11$ mile* *iA the ncirrh side of l
h- island ios an inaiuettse
tiyht liMtir-: away ] w;is eapr Eci m-i Iwk fortress which once LmpritHJHjfiif the Mnn in
tu rny bicycle ami start sotih’ real eÊcisr tifr Trim \Fa-k. ’
iiumrirl^lizjH] by \!e*aiidrt
SMUtEfi- Diums, Is is iiiKw run ^ a bfhlnrir:n| aLir-'ii-
I'-esi thr whitlow of ihe Emin Uashtil a I i
i
m. l"ht Frege h Huntd Assui i . 1
1 i<jn had I
j*j . i
montage nf tite cimnTfy L w.is leaving: Imsg onr of Eho large Lurreted buildings
brlib with hti^c melon-. Liar i n-: ImveT
Nf IHsa ihe reju=b> p MntilcmtttfM tiwi5t. the Shiijk^ Eci Frilh in H> Mimi In
dark furmtls. bkidts ut Omani mai tile, a Tlu 1
entire l^tup vv.i- perftel fur younjs
lonely farmhouse still paclmiarkn with nil lei I I vac..ii ii hums Darliye Ehc day tluiy would sun-
bidr- fnum the wJir. old women working rhe bailie swim ur lth skim divine in the nUldftioLts
fti'lij>. uv^rflwii wa.tif.uL7 invisible under prr- secluded, rocky cdv^. \l tjfghi they cuukt
po&tienitus loads .*? ]my. iIhii*;*
1
In êmtehj nôrd-. tm im open ceJiienE
[ jiiekrd ll( i rny bike at the Imfreria stiiiimi flour ur simply strum a g uiiar enrl seiim
41 ii-rl spent ihe night _lS Bordi^hem. rtinurtfi unity, three rhiyv wji < the longest •
E he treat inoRjLUK I set inff fur Nice, I’caancc. une ittilcl sf4tj t i:L any hosld in Europe IhiE
IIwas a day, .LrstE the- rolkr-coBstcrf many nmnageil to suetch tlreir iiuhilEty here
mads. while |
imvhllri£ EhrtlKflg viptr uf the rn u YiKvk,
A I .j i j . : l hi Lvdtk lLlc May j:+ f. *_-] i ^ I v. Pljj I-ollow -ihe-lteid^rDi'WU n FruiL-h H i^hwny
i I | !
fSJ Hr- *f I lhrilhur. Baikal OimuuriiN PH in
Si. Nicludra ClLap-ct Jut* fram a Pier >1 ihu 1 % i«i I d'At-j^f 11 llk .
n llviJiu U^ N *m heru
r
Iraji9D.Flalljciil by the cfriiktsYb's rfiyim' Sur It |iuh1 il rWlftlihb* I rrnukU' >

‘Ml !i ! inw til mini 1
Oft tin:
tinrlee n\ \i-bctiwp ni n!is^b ikim ^ IN a
j
r|h*s- . Ihv IkuLj 3!jm !bpnu|i!|] tiiv lilim- Usi jS*iilL- In Pii> thr
jijlhifct '.fHifll t ijjuk'i Skiutiiy In lhn "». -i Tl city v\ \viirnOii i n rn-rl in nii'dlvVA-l l ism?* ;i * Mu pufuO i
j ii :
i
never ceased io marvel ftt iiw .'iris who

1 \t_Vt day the aijii w;l? shining lynniilly is
ivt-nc bn-tehm;.. .\ &u\ nf fhe-rsi would enter 1 3 bended nut otn t J|i* tl;H mad to Avignon Hut
iht- I uiiuziiL!!^ TiKirll dressed in fUJ* MuMi-ll H lUllli ihe wiftrl ftui blowing so dronjjty thiU I ms
duck* 4tid biL'kfl.'- hut after SO minuter nf Hupped itenii in my tracks. t might just as
1
1 r i
n 1
1 1
i
j ll atad chimidrig in they vmild well Jtuvt- been on. li bityck «3tcrai shift nta-
I'mcr^r At sparkling exjmi|ilts of Jeftrirnnhy chhur

and charm. f dagger! dura oji Avignon bus and with
Sr wu> a biting cnld mtsrnine when I iiyrkd mt fokTi'Et* on the roof rack I artskd bvk
-itlthwrM (hr liivieta E u St* Raphael. for [he tSrer-hiiur Hde, \vfynoTi P like many
The leaden nky opened up and a sttofady Kilo medil«val t LiEnnninitiejt lit V ranee, wil n walk'd
tested iShj riiEiit ikiy. I slashed over the city: mth here ihe wall t|* hr&th mr.Ha. It
mountain! r«;in; wiih ivattT irifklini; over rr W35 liir pftpfll capital! during most of the Ulh
fare amJ into itix ^hoes. When I reached century, hr Rfra( Pilate of tbtf Fope*;
I still
S tcjiii 1 wna Lh^pkunhly ScKitefth emc >i1 tin town's main iitndlntis
t |
IS2
Parii Hoiiwii Hqr An Trgifiiirts in the Lnuvrc, a Faiqct Where? Frepcli Kiags Del'll
Liiziw tfcrf!t-2-s!i-iri i! iV- lei L *»l r i.- trlumii !
1
:1 th- lui'nir âur it n-i k:i tbRj^B§ ui rtfuni
; :• 1 1 • i
*.!•
Lifela i-iriiHil do JllilLkt im iK HlAnyTaceE^d i

i-iulUy.'' \k writ™, In L lie nil tur rit; ul ^h_ Luir.
In âLcferil Aitts." fiainl Lluj -mijJt tapli - and ryr-riisuuEijt oqniiinH^ id Ik* » utlij'* ituitivridLiri \ m|ii
nf f hr i .nf Supprr by 3 B i:Mn;ri]|i da \ ihti l-unt.-. i;i rich*, ivifli I LeJjii's EnfambtuntT c^nLLr^d b-L'iwiiLh.
]'llr' lli nh '

1
Vk'.i.H ] [jcrl I
ly
- : I i LiJ 3 r l I lit! I ill' IIDfLh ‘
Iby the register that you urr In mi
side nf lie Rhone overbaking the puhnre \i Philadelphku tn J 94-* when I Iei die
llfghl we [yrikdl ;KTo^ the VfAltl !> r-ee thi? l-'Trnri i N' : cruise r sin p] jw
i
vy i
w \ ymrr city, I : 1
1
wonderfully l/Lureled wa ll_- ataliiace with Ctilorr-d where \ nitl a yomig lady. If pvt- yuu htf I
âjdiJsiiht^ whit .1 vnu’.t* I'KiijtiMKj uut the imini- find -liidFesSp will you dll !lnd ifll her
"
hJsturv oi thi eflv. Pcette shy-* hellu?
H
The next in or nip £ I cashed ji 5-20 trawler = 4
!Cert4iiii3y,
check. 1 had fonly rmr iteijit left* A sudibn He handed nu 1

a Tip of pa ht,
^fiefgeiity could Ivhyf me wilh vu ry little Wiay ,
yiie live?, only 3 0 bitick* aWiii iir-mi
a
cupitJiL ttitf, htrt El's Ikrii mn?r 11 years-. f turiui|i- shr
Akemtttely cycling mu] puLtiitiE lifts Oil ha-.- Forgotten 3 uu
LFlicbi. Arrived ;Lt ihr h'M.d in ValeP££-
I He bi iL-hi-ni-.l uji with a tirnwl ^mile,
K,
OL
There a Frnichmiin frame uver lf> me* I am certain -’lie will rermpber Pierre!
5 k . i
J uriiptr Via i In
-
Hum cl Ruutr 153
I found oul [hr itesl '.luy ihn 1

hil' lihlkiriy W4> tu die rhtirrh of St I * uai- P jKcrt yuirntj
iti FfAWtit IMU vm dilktitl* Mn.dk I tbift coitples hokflnj; haiids lh t hi- trri/tht tnomlnL 1
a bus in Lyiyn iuiel went loufcifls fur iitems- smiliît I wnifhed n mtny jo-r-iurrl rapera^
| mr'ii Mon to Puns. (nr triiTiji
p " H
r ,
to niiike an indififeirnT liuEe mrl.
Hu=- travel wmdrl l>r chrape-.T £ Found. Iml m*HJnir*l i in u voiidni jwitiy Hnilr. T riTall
they wouldn't transport. my bite flu Is i the wovnnti liens over a pilit uf TUvepinEr:
ittsiincp. U l I* Piik the imm, ] lou Id curry emtside Lh market. Tilling \ yi.Lj^r i\,n: ^ .eii iLf-
the bike. but the fare was iLO. oull'i^F lari (s rtmi veccNiblcs: and the (brec
ik-i/nW io tty sTiy luck oft#
( Iri.’i e ti me a? a men engaged an ls vih lent nrii jraeaT over a
hiii-JihrfccT f spent the niiihi m ihr Lym Pfttmffiitour id them likd just lîBbed flf the
hostel. wn> pouring -^.:niily the ftcxf day
Ti Church of hr SiHTr iVirur. j
T walled two ami a hill! hour*, hiii fit! ride Tht-n* wen tin itarfsli neon signs lu-.iik
wjl* fortlitt uniiiLL. Siicikril eh llir skim. £ rude the its nidi tide or m^ht viubs tn the 'lace I
back to town and bought a imin Iwket in

Parts. It Irinked as if tfar; niin would hist a
liipfE tall ji-

1
llir Xri-iMT A'rtf -saFled ofi Se|^
timber and [ knew ^hr wouldn't wait.
tl w;is st id wn l- In Lilly damp wfcn Vvr
it till
bit Paris at 8 o’clock. ] cyclol M smuD ii
lir-li-J in ihf 1 . 1 1 : k «
- 1 f district The woman
in chatxe spoke exa-llenl Kro?hrii.
Ah* my siirtid. -he ûrl smiling. '1
1
uffl
St Trail I you are tOG lair, Bfciy space is taken*

even 1 hi- emergency cots. Ha* only thmi! left
is the bos my cot sl« i n-. in, Since she always is
-tsi VirE-r out .j i I nigh? is III will tell you hmt

8
tu jei til -in other plier Ti k n»y Ipt an

hour by Mnliway/'
Xi^M *i >i i ii Ki&i?] itfi T:Lb!t

1
Pul T'tti oil ik bicycle, and am nut F-imiibiir £
wish Pari&. Ill «bvp uny where. even on the

11
table*
“Ahu the kitrlim f^ln V. A guorl idea. To*
mnmKW we will try "
so fittd a re^pt'Ctahle bed
lur yiJLt.
A> 1 w;lh eating and cheese sand- my itw.lI
ivichc?. a South African rftling n^ff by spoke

lu uir
“I $aj there. you jiMi tame in Jt IIliIi- while
, 1
£i j , didn't ymp .£ km ay ch* pl|b h frijtht-
f Lilly jammed- Whjfrrt? is vijut hunk lur ti>

8
flight?
m
V c ' rf rating tut it now/ answered him.
l
Me eighi -day day in Paris was it bri Hi kh

of Impressions r ih^ spacious le^s
•if the hr tendur
Eiffel Tower ^-l r.LcFdlimi l
.'telling mtni-as iti t-s nniirmealh* tbr view from
urn iop of the Vrh of Triumph whrre the

-
.\iilv |-nHili-v;iri.l> i : if I 'I.*. like lright-grpen vriiw
tbrdiicb ii ansy leaf; llir Paris subway and lu
nia/'
1
ut ds tret son îsfns; medieval church tht*
ui]t.llniii3 teFe vision uc|ui|inient ro: a spef&J
btottdc^tst,
J Wiilkcif ili m r
Line hank of the Stitir whepe
"Smjviznir df Pafrti M'sr-i;iir'
:
hottieloss men Jdtpt bsidifltnl rn their tm^ciI

A In rrLfd irnijur Ii.iwL hi- .v.!:v-- n i i .illi lln h'lili I
ârmen!^. A solriiui firocessloo ciianted its ThiUtt'- LiJiSf H'i! iiittt

— .
A bartender gave me g
tw-rr when i 1 benight 1
was asking for wnlrr. \

| utsenl little man with a
black derby ,rnd i wht'M
pCHiffle despentriy tried Ui
find n hank !nr me before
they cUiimhL
I watched wide-eyed
children jit the Sunday
bird market, stared n| a
3 906 mîorinc magazine

in ,j stall a Icing the .Seine,
•
-turfed horae in mi im-
tlqttr -hup, tin- one- min Lite
sketch artist in the Lobby
of tin. 1
Folk * DcrêrE, the

1
im:ongrwnus)y kuttlerl
youngsters talking with
I hi: It InindH- Hi Ihe caf^
tublf in M_ trtfrin.fclu dr 1
-
r‘r.S-
l -U> ui Many Fuce-=
Ml thervr meiêd into a

Pariti which rrukes .ill who
have ~S«H1 U long Eu return
k is the moil keJovrd city
in i lie World, and wonts
cannot do justice to its
ni any heel t pervjnilily - 1 *i
1
I hi l
r'
ri ilay . Srpt rm tier
3 , i Lm mi r i Jed uu nc LI
t be (
on Sa LicfeJit TraviT* bus.

with many other young
Aknrfiaii^. -mr| bended
[nr Lr Havre md (hit
An Nanerifjiri in Mg Much ia Ste. $<< UttU- Time

wa i ti n y s hi m |
j . My wn t mey
Brjd>‘-]ArnriE iiimt paving - lurmJ iht aultim Co jurt Iiih lukf iL&ti
through Kumpe bail hikrn
1
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MATIQNAI GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY From Your Color Films

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VOLUM E I UMBER ONE

1 y Life in Forbidden Lhasa

Under Canvas in the Atomic Age

In the Gardens of Olympus

Europe Via the Hostel Route

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mcldmril niki lumiin-.f

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^XF-t-UTlVE FT A F" F OF NATIONAL O^prfrftAfttllC MACAFTNH

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d^*HllMiW«u* 5 ir.irL ^tftatO- streak v^s

Yosemite .where you became heir to a scenic fortune . .

Sinclair Salutes the Boy Scouts of America TO US INFORMATION -

pUAimmt then national in

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