SIZE:

Neck circumference: 9.5”

Arm length: 4”
Chest measurement: 13.5"
Finished chest: 15"
Finished length from shoulder to bottom edge: 6”
GAUGE:
20 sts and 26 rows = 4" with larger needles in
stockinette st.
MATERIALS:
 Worsted weight yarn in oatmeal color, one skein/ball, about 100 yards. (Finished sweater
weighs 2 ounces.)
 Size 6 and 8 (US) straight knitting needles, or size needed to obtain gauge.
 You’ll need an extra (third) size 8 needle to work the shoulder bits on the Front piece.
 You’ll need size 6 double-pointed needles to work the neckband.
 2 stitch holders (each large enough for about 25 stitches)
 Yarn needle to sew seams and weave in ends.
NOTES:
Making a bear-sized sweater is not really any easier than making a human-sized sweater; the
construction and complexity are the same though it will take less time overall.
Cabling: c4b=cross two stitches to the back of work (this makes the twist in the cable). If you
want help with how to cable, great instructions in this video: https://youtu.be/1Ij7E-DaIfU
This pattern was heavily adapted from Patons' "Teddy's Sweater" pattern
(http://www.yarnspirations.com/teddy-s-sweater.html) and I used Jenn Eaker’s Flatmate Scarf as
a reference (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-flatmate-scarf) for the chevron bits.
INSTRUCTIONS:
BACK PIECE
With smaller needles, cast on 45 st. In Rows 1-4, you're making 1x1 ribbing.
Row 1: (RS) k1, *p1, k1*.
Row 2: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*.
Row 3: Make increase in first stitch, *p1, k1* until last stitch. Make increase in last stitch (47 sts
total).
Row 4: Make increase in first stitch, *k1, p1* until last stitch. Make increase in last stitch (49 sts
total).
Change to larger needles.
Now you can choose--for a plain stockinette back, just knit the RS rows and purl the WS rows; if
you want cables and chevrons on the back, follow this pattern stitch below.
Pattern stitch to make the cables and chevrons (it's a 4-row repeat, and you twist your cables in
row 1):
Pattern Row 1: (RS) k6, p2, c4b, p2, c4b, p2, k4, p1, k4, p2, c4b, p2, c4b, p2, k6.
Pattern Row 2: (WS) p6, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2, p3, k3, p3, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2, p6.
Pattern Row 3: (RS) k6, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k1, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k6.
Pattern Row 4: (WS) p6, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2, p3, k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2, p6.
Repeat pattern rows 1-4 until work from beginning measures 3"; last row completed should be a
WS row.
Armhole shaping: Cast off 3 sts at beginning on next two rows (resulting in 37 sts total).
Continue in pattern until work measures 6" from beginning; last row completed should be a WS
row.
Shoulder shaping: Cast off 6 sts at beginning of next two rows. Leave remaining stitches (25)
on a stitch holder.
FRONT PIECE
Same as Back piece, but when work is 4 ½ inches long from beginning, end with completed WS
row and then begin neckline shaping.
Neckline shaping: Work in pattern across 12 sts. Leave remaining stitches alone on needle. Use
spare needle to continue working rows over those first 12 stitches. Decrease one stitch at neck
edge on every row until 6 sts remain on needle. If needed, work additional rows until piece
measures same finished length as Back piece. End on completed WS row. Cast off.
With RS of work facing you, slip 13 sts from needle onto a stitch holder.
Join yarn to remaining sts on needle (there should be 12 sts) and work in pattern to end of row.
Work to create reverse shaping to match other side (so you are maintaining the pattern but
decreasing one stitch at the neck edge on every row until 6 sts remain). If needed, work
additional rows until piece measures same finished length as Back piece. End on completed WS
row. Cast off.
SLEEVES
With smaller needles, cast on 34 sts. In Rows 1-4, you're making 1x1 ribbing.
Row 1: (RS) k1, *p1, k1*.
Row 2: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*.
Row 3: Repeat row 1.
Row 4: Repeat row 2.
Change to larger needles. Now you can choose--for a plain stockinette sleeve, just knit the RS
rows and purl the WS rows; if you want two cables along the center of the sleeve, follow this
pattern stitch below.
Pattern Row 1: (RS) k10, p2, c4b, p2, c4b, p2, k10.
Pattern Row 2: (WS) p10, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2, k10.
Pattern Row 3: (RS) k10, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k10.
Pattern Row 4: (WS) p10, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2, k10.
Repeat pattern rows 1-4 until work from beginning measures 3 ½ inches long; last row
completed should be a WS row. Cast off.
Repeat to make second sleeve.
NECKBAND
If you are right-handed, sew right shoulder seam. (If you are left-handed, sew left shoulder
seam). With RS of work facing you and smaller double-pointed needles, pick up and knit 7 sts
down front neck edge. Knit across the 13 sts on stitch holder. Pick up and knit 7 sts up front
neck edge. Knit across the 25 sts on back stitch holder, decreasing 3 sts evenly across the back
(51 sts total for neckband, evenly spaced among double-pointed needles).
Work 4 rows of k1 p1 ribbing in the round. Cast off in ribbing.
Sew remaining shoulder seam.
FINISHING
Attach sleeves (lay the main sweater section flat and center the sleeve to the shoulder seam,
then sew armhole seam). Fold the whole thing in half at the shoulder seams and then match up
edges and sew the side seams and the sleeve seams. Weave in ends.
Turn right side out and you should have a finished, totally cute jumper for your John Watson
bear.