Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Car Collector Chronicles 11-11
Car Collector Chronicles 11-11
Exploring:
Car Collecting Today Classic Rides Reports From the Field
Oldsmobile (1897-2004) Cadillac (1902- ) Allant (1987-1993)
Corvair (1960-1969)
IN THIS ISSUE:
Future subjects I am looking into deal with the use of ethanol in our classics and the old ride tire dilemma we all face; to modify or not. What subjects would you, the readers, like presented? Let me know. If you do, it could very well appear on the pages of CCC.
Humor on Wheels 5
CCC -THE FORUM http://ccc.activeboard.com Car Collector Chronicles-scribd Saved 62 - 1962 Olds web site http://www.freewebs.com/ jeandaveyaros The Gray Lady - 1955 Cadillac Coup de Ville web site
THE GRAY LADY: This website features our 1955 Cadillac Coup de Ville and Caddy information.
DAVES DEN: A website devoted to a myriad of interests. Foremost is extensive information on the Steel City of Gary, IN. There are also offerings on steel making, U.S. Steel-Gary Works, U.S. Marine Corps, M14 assault rifle, of course Oldsmobile, and the tragic story of the murder of Gary, IN Police Lt. George Yaros.
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Ethanol
This is not going to be diatribe against ethanol. There would be no sense in going on and on about it. The simple fact is, it is here, and we are stuck with it. Our interests are better served in learning to cope with ethanol blended gasoline; commonly referred to as E10. Let me state at the outset, in 6 years of maintaining my old rides Ive not encountered problems with ethanol; except maybe once. That problem was one of vapor lock. It happened after a long drive on a hot summer day, the last of which was in, for lack of a better term, parade mode. Before one may address coping with ethanol blended fuel, cursory knowledge of a few facts are necessary. Bear with me here Our interests are better served in learning to cope with ethanol blended gasoline; commonly referred to as E10. Gasoline begins to oxidize 30-45 days after refinery manufacture. Products of oxidation include: gum, varnish and insoluble residue. 6 gallons of untreated fuel loses on average 4 octane points every 30 days. Higher grades lose their octane rating faster than regular gas. Ethanol blends well with gasoline. It also mixes completely with water. When water infiltrates a gas tank, the ethanol will absorb the water. If enough is present, it will overwhelm the ethanols ability to remain blended with the gasoline. In older cars, gas tanks are vented. Vented fuel tanks pull moisture out of the air, blending it with the fuel in the tank. After the ethanol absorbs as much water as it can, the unabsorbed water, being heavier than gas, settles to the bottom of the tank. As your fuel pickup line is near the bottom of the gas tank, you will be sucking in the worst fuel first. This is what ethanol blended gasoline looks like after it has undergone phase separation; caused by water absorption. The top portion is gas. The bottom solution is a water-ethanol mix. Who would want to be pumping this through their engine? Once phase separation has occurred, the process cannot be reversed. [Photo courtesy
http://www.sschapterpsa.com/]
Ethanol blended fuel does effect older rubber fuel lines, by softening them & allowing them to collapse internally. Soft metals such as zinc, brass or aluminum, which are commonly found in conventional fuel systems, are not compatible with ethanol. Some nonmetallic materials, such as natural rubber, polyurethane, adhesives, bushings, gaskets, filters and materials made of cork may degrade when subjected to continual contact with ethanol. Carburetor float materials may also lack compatibility with ethanol.
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EthanolContd.
All fuel handling systems tend to accumulate deposits of one kind or another in crevices and corners. Sediments, gums, rust, lacquer, varnish and other materials fall into this category. Generally, the older the fuel system the more such accumulations will be present. Ethanol in gas gives the blended mixture enhanced cleaning ability. Unfortunately, fuels containing ethanol tend to loosen accumulated deposits. They then move on to the fuel pump, fuel filter, carburetor, injectors, etc., and plague the driver with mysterious fuel starvation problems. Lest you think this is just a bogus, scare tactic claim, check out this picture. It shows the carburetor of a 2-cycle engine after being switched over to E10 fuel. All that white, crusty stuff should not be there! [Photo courtesy http://
news.consumerreports.org/]
The simplest thing to do is to keep your tank full. Moisture enters the gas tank via the air. Reducing the amount of air in your tank will reduce the amount of water that can enter with the air.
Ethanol does not burn as well as leaded gas. Yet the fuel system delivers the same amount of fuel to your engine, causing it to run a bit lean. Running lean may cause engine overheating, resulting in premature wear on all parts, valves burning, spark plug life being shortened and in worst case scenarios, blown head gaskets. Being a dry fuel, ethanol also scours the oil film from cylinder walls. This may result in piston rings and other hard components wearing prematurely. Now that we have described the nature of ethanol blended fuels, how does one minimize the negative effects? In actuality, it is not that difficult. The simplest thing to do is to keep your tank full. Moisture enters the gas tank via the air. It can only be absorbed by ethanol if there is air space in your gas tank. Reducing the amount of air in your tank will reduce the amount of water that can enter with the air. The second tool in your arsenal is fuel stabilizer. It should be used at every fill-up, not just for long term storage. Why? If you are like me, I may not run through an entire tank of gas in a 30 day period. Use of a stabilizer keeps the gas from deteriorating while just sitting in the tank. A good fuel stabilizer contains corrosion preventers and a fuel system cleaner to protect against corrosion and deposit build up. It disperses the water already accumulated in the tank, helping to make it burn with minimal harmful effects. It also has cleaning agents and emulsifiers to liquefy the gum and varnish already formed in the system; hopefully permitting it to pass through the fuel system without causing harm to engine components.
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EthanolContd.
Over time, expect to have to replace lines, gaskets, etc. that are subject to attack by ethanol. In each instance, always replace with materials that are rated as being ethanol compatible. Do be aware, some gaskets, seals and the like may not be readily visible. They may be inside other parts, such as your fuel pump and carburetor. In closing, let me make two points: The U.S. Federal Aviation Agency 2006 Airworthiness Bulletin expressly forbids the use of ethanol blended fuel in any aircraft. Ask yourself, if it is harmless, why? Since 1998, Ed Syrocki has specialized in repairing and maintaining all types of historic vehicles. The constant parade of customers who travel far and wide to his Warren, MI garage are a testament to his integrity and reputation. He says, In the past three years, work on fuel-related repairs has more than doubled. Gas tanks, floats going bad, fuel pumps, carburetorswhere it used to be that most of our work was related to other mechanical problems, now three days every week is spent working on cars with fuel systems damaged by ethanol-blended fuel. Which fuel stabilizer treatment to use is your call. There are enough of them out on the market from which to choose. Go with a brand that has a reputation among collector car owners. In my case, the product of choice is Sta-Bil Marine. This is the green colored formula, as opposed to the more familiar red. Why marine formula? No, not because my years of military service have left me diagnosed with Chronic Marine Syndrome. It is because the (green) marine formula has better water absorption handling characteristics than the conventional red mix. Purportedly, it also has double the corrosion preventers and more than four times the fuel system cleaner than the conventional (red) formula. At 1 oz./10 gals. in daily use, and 1 oz./5 gals. for vehicle storage use, it also takes less to do more. Believe it, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!
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than slight. This is because the average Cuban cannot afford to buy a car, let alone purchase a new one. Also, the rules deal with imports only. The export situation is not addressed. Nevertheless, the door has been opened, albeit only by a crack. Here are links to some old Cuban rides now on the market - http://blogs.miaminewtimes.com/riptide/2009/09/ top_10_amazing_cars_for_sale_o.php?page=3 Next, the Cuban version of Craigs List - http://www.revolico.com/autos/carros/ Click on the listings that have fotos.
Humor on Wheels
Who said:
Ok, Ive had my say for the month. Now its your turn! I invite/encourage submission of your comments, opinions and article contributions. I also ask that you please help spread the word about our publication. Everything sent shall indeed be reviewed by me. Submissions should be sent to CCC at OldsD88@gmail.com. Now that you have finished reading this months issue of the newsletter, come start/join an ongoing dialog with other CCC readers and like-minded car collector folk on the CCC Forum. Stop by, check us out and share your views .
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