Sew News - Spring 2024

Create Cool Wrap Pants ~ Hack Helen’s Closet Culottes!
The Trusted Sewing Source SPRING 2024
StitchUp
THIS SEASONS HOT TRENDS
Master Working
with Sheer Fabrics
Hit the Trails with A
SPORTY BACKPACK
3 Neckline Options For
WARM WEATHER
BODYSUITS
SEW FOR
THE HOME
Quilt a
Rainbow
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SPRING
CONTENTS FEATURES
17 FAVORITE COVERS
Embark on a nostalgic journey
through the cherished covers of
2024
ISSUE 393
Sew News, revisiting a tapestry

of timeless designs and sewing
inspirations.
18 TOP PATTERNS
FROM THE PAST
Explore Sew Daily’s top
timeless patterns from our
archives, curated for every
sewing enthusiast’s collection.
Join us on a nostalgic journey
through past treasures,
uncovering the enduring
gems endorsed by our team.
22 TIPS FOR WORKING

WITH SHEER FABRICS
Sheer fabrics are becoming
more widely available to the
home sewist, but extra care
should be taken when you
sew with them.
26 SEW SCRAPPY:
REFRESH YOUR SPACE
Keep your relaxation and
sleepy-time activities
36
organized and at your
fingertips with this felt and function, ensuring you have a 63 WEAVE TWO INTO ONE
leather bedside organizer. trendy accessory to carry your Transforming two oversized
essentials while staying active. button-up shirts into one
36 THAT’S A WRAP
Revitalize a classic culottes distinctive garment adorned with
50 RAINBOW a captivating basketweave pattern
pattern by envisioning it as QUILTED PILLOW
the foundation for a stylish is a creative way to breathe new
Stitching a personalized, arched
pair of wrap pants. life into old clothing, merging
quilted pillow allows you to infuse
style with sustainability.
38 MEND IT a touch of springtime indoors,
Mending clothing instead of adding a vibrant burst of nature’s 68 SPORTY SHEER DUSTER
discarding it not only reduces beauty to your living space. Combining airy, floaty fabrics
waste and conserves resources with sporty elements creates a
53 SADIE’S SEWING SPACE
but also preserves cherished trendy sheer duster for spring that
Check out Sadie’s sewing studio,
memories and personal style, effortlessly blends elegance with
where she is surrounded by
contributing to a more sustainable a touch of athletic flair.
and meaningful wardrobe. creative inspiration.
56 SEWSTAINABLE: 72 ATHLECOUTURE PANTS

41 MODERN TERRAZZO Transform your everyday joggers
WALL HANGING HEM IT REAL GOOD
The revamped hemline breathes into a fashion statement by
Utilizing fabric pieces in a quilted
new life into your jeans, making incorporating a playful paper bag
wall hanging to replicate the
appearance of mosaic tiles yields them feel like a brand-new waist detail, elevating both style
a captivating aesthetic that wardrobe staple. and comfort.
imbues the artwork with a vibrant
and textured quality. 60 ‘70s ARE BACK 75 BODYSUIT 3 WAYS
Love it or not, bellbottoms The ‘90s are back in a big way,
44 HIT THE TRAILS BACKPACK are back, baby! They’ve been along with many old-is-new
Sewing a sporty backpack allows rebranded as “flares,” but the fashion trends. A bodysuit can fill a
you to combine both style and vibe is still groovy. big hole in your wardrobe.
2 W W W . S E W D A I L Y. C O M SPRING 2024
50
www.sewdaily.com
sewnews@goldenpeakmedia.com
EDITORIAL
Editor in Chief Meg Healy
Digital Editor Kathleen Cubley
Content Creator Sadie Metter
Editorial Coordinator Kimberly Payne
Technical Editor Kimberly Payne
ART
Design Director Rachel Kennedy
Graphic Designer Ron Goodman
Photography Molly Stevenson
Hair and Makeup Beauty on Location Studio
Illustrator Kimberly Payne
MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Senior Marketing Manager Jessi Rodriguez
Ad Trafficker Kay Sanders
Account Executives Lisa Buelow
Kiley Jo Stevensen
Chief Executive Officer Jeffrey Litvack

63
Chief Content Officer Kate Lee Butler
Chief Integration Officer Nicole Woods
VP, Strategy Andrew Flowers
Newsstand Sales Ron Murray, NPS Media Group
rmurray@npsmediagroup.com 29
SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: Have a question about your
Sew News subscription? Visit our website, call us, or
email your question, and we’ll be happy to assist you.
Go to goldenpeakmedia.com/help to change your
address, pay your bill, and to submit subscription
questions or concerns.
18
Customer Service: 1-847-305-4536
E-mail: SewNews@omeda.com
Subscriber Services: Sew News, P.O. Box 1486,
Lincolnshire, IL 60069-0486.
Sew News is published by Peak Media Properties, LLC,
dba Golden Peak Media, 500 Golden Ridge Rd., Suite 100,
Golden, CO 80401-9552. Golden Peak Media reserves the
right to change the number of issues in an annual term,
including discontinuing any format and substituting and/or
COLUMNS IN EVERY
modifying the way the subscription is distributed.
10 BASIC SKILLS: Pleats ISSUE
Sew News Spring 2024 14 FROM FASHION SCHOOL: 4 Get Sewcial
Copyright ©2024 by Peak Media Properties, LLC. All rights reserved. Q&A with Taisiya Aristakesyan 5 Editor’s Letter
Nothing may be printed in whole or in part without permission from the
publisher. Single-copy rate U.S. $9.99; Canada $10.99. Subscriptions 29 THE COMMON THREAD: 6 Reader Tips
are $29.95 for one year; Canadian subscriptions are $37.95; other
international subscriptions are $41.95. Projects and information are
Sustainable Textiles
for inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in
7 Staff Picks
part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher. We’ve made 32 MASTERCLASS: Topstitching
every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. 80 Experts
However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a 78 GET THE LOOK:
pattern in this issue, please contact us.
Fresh New Silhouettes
PRINTED IN THE USA
Issue 393. Sew News (ISSN 0273-8120) is published quarterly by Peak Media Properties, LLC, dba Golden Peak Media,
500 Golden Ridge Rd., Suite 100, Golden, CO 80401-9552. Periodicals postage paid at Golden, CO 80401 and additional
mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send change of addresses to Sew News, P.O. Box 1486, Lincolnshire, IL 60069-0486.
W W W . S E W D A I L Y. C O M 3
GET SEWCIAL
1 MAKERPLACE BY MICHAELS
Hey there, DIYers and crafty makers! The coolest new
hangout for craft enthusiasts is finally here! It’s the MakerPlace
by Michaels, and it’s buzzing with excitement. Hundreds of
talented artisans selling their handmade wonders are just
waiting for you to explore. Whether you’re a keen shopper
on the hunt for unique goodies or a creative soul seeking
inspiration, this place has got your back! Dive into a treasure
trove of amazing creations, snag some crafty essentials,
and even join classes or tutorials. And hey, if you’re a maker
bursting with creativity, this is your chance to shine! Sign up to
sell your masterpieces, host live online classes, and even earn
some affiliate pay while you’re at it. michaels.com/makerplace
2 PANTONE’S COLOR OF THE YEAR

A couple months ago, Pantone revealed the Color of the Year
3 SEWISTS
MAKERS CLUB
We’re creating a fun, new way to enjoy
for 2024, and let us tell you, it’s a total burst of joy! We have Sew Daily and Sew News! We are
been spotting Peach Fuzz all over our social media channels transitioning from the print magazine to
and beyond. This sweet and springy hue is here to celebrate a new membership digital experience.
the 25th anniversary of Pantone’s Color of the Year program. The membership will provide expert
Get ready for all those fuzzy, warm feels! Here at Sew Daily techniques, product recommendations,
we are already dreaming up all sorts of springtime garments and curated pattern collections, as well
and home décor projects including this juicy color! as a wealth of resources, tutorials, and
pantone.com/color-of-the-year/2024 instructional videos. We are excited to
support sewists in a whole new way.
Current subscribers of the magazine will

have access to a digital membership. It
will be a newsletter-first and project-
focused daily offering. As part of this
membership, we will be launching a
metered experience on SewDaily.com,
reserving the best of our premium
content for our paying and most loyal
members. With our extensive library of
patterns and projects, we will refresh
the available portfolio based on
holidays, seasons, and life moments so
you’ll have the best, timely projects just
when you need them.
Check out sewdaily.com/jointheclub
for all the details.
DEAR READERS AND SEWING ENTHUSIASTS,
EDITOR The ice is finally melting, the sun’s peeking out longer, and it’s
time to sprout some fresh ideas! Yep, you guessed it—time to
swap out that winter coat for something lighter, jazz up your
living space, and dive into some crafty adventures.
Now, for those of you looking to revamp your style without
Meg Healy, breaking the piggy bank, you’ve gotta check out Sewstainable
Editor in Chief (page 56). Want a quick fix for those jeans you can’t bear to
part with? Creative hemming is the answer!
Hey, all you sewing enthusiasts out there! Don’t sweat over sheer
fabrics anymore. We’ve got your back with some awesome tips.
Picture this: you, a sewing machine, and a fabulous springtime
frock! Oh, and be sure to scope out the Sporty Sheer Duster
pattern (Page 68). It’s like a blend of sportiness and runway
fashion. Yep, it’s that cool.
• Craft the ultimate fashion-forward joggers using the
AthleCouture Pants pattern. Find instructions on page 72.
• Fuse two men’s button-down shirts into a singular, striking
fashion statement with Weave Two Into One. Discover how
on page 63.
• Embrace the outdoors and stay active with the Hit the
Trails Backpack. Locate it on page 44 for more details.
Kimberly Payne, • Uncover the technique to transform Helen’s Closet
Editorial Coordinator Winslow Culottes into iconic wrap pants from the pattern
designer, Helen Wilkinson herself! Details on page 36.
In reference to change, new beginnings, and growth, this marks
both a farewell to the print magazine and a gaze into the future.
The Sew Daily team extends a massive shout-out to the editors
who navigated the ship throughout the past ten-year period of
Sadie Metter,
Content Creator this magazine. Meg Healy, Amanda Carestio, and Ellen March,
your creative flair, profound expertise, and boundless enthusiasm
for the craft of sewing echo within the pages of each Sew News
issue, leaving behind a legacy that promises to perpetually ignite
inspiration among sewists for years to come.
This will be our last print issue of Sew News. We are
transitioning from a print magazine to a new membership digital
experience. The membership will provide expert techniques,
product recommendations, curated pattern collections, and
a wealth of resources, tutorials, and instructional videos. We
are excited to support sewists in a whole new way! Check
out sewdaily.com/jointheclub for all the details. Many of you
already are regulars at sewdaily.com, and if you aren’t yet,
we urge you to check out the wealth of resources there.
We thank all of our readers, designers, and
contributors for making this publication so
Download
special. Your dedication has been our
the SN Reader
inspiration. We are profoundly grateful for Exclusive patterns
your support, and we look forward to seeing with code
Kathleen Cubley, you at the new, enhanced, sewdaily.com! SNxMIb9sCI.
Digital Editor
The Sew Daily Team
READER TIPS
for spring sewing!
SHARPEN
THE POINT
Fill a salt or pepper
shaker with steel
mesh for hand sewing
needle sharpening.
—Amy F., email
DARK MARK
Use a dark-colored permanent marker when changing your
sewing machine needle type and mark it. After three marks,
it’s time to dispose of the needle. —Dede B., Facebook
SPIRAL STORAGE
Use plastic spiral binders
to store multiple bobbins.
—Sam S., Facebook
POP
IT WITH
A SOCKET
Pop the backs
into covered
buttons using a
socket wrench.
NOT —Susie, Facebook
JUST
FOR KIDS
Use kid-friendly
washable markers
or crayons as
removable fabric
marking tools.
—Cara C., Facebook
STAFF
PICKS
BROTHER CS7000X
SEWING MACHINE
Introducing the CS7000X sewing
machine, a powerhouse designed
to elevate your stitching experience.
Boasting an impressive array of 70
stitches—from utility to decorative
and heirloom—this machine offers
boundless creative possibilities.
1
Its automatic needle threader
simplifies the setup, effortlessly
threading needles with the touch of a lever, saving you time and hassle. Equipped with 10 sewing and quilting
feet, including essential options like zigzag, buttonhole, zipper, and more, this machine caters to diverse
crafting needs. The jam-resistant quick-set drop-in top bobbin ensures smooth operation, while the wide
table accommodates larger projects, providing ample space for your creativity to flourish. Plus, its protective
hard case ensures easy portability, making it an ideal companion for crafting on the go. Elevate your sewing
experience with the CS7000X—where innovation meets versatility. All for a great price! brother-usa.com
2
SEWING MACHINE LIGHT
STRIP BY MADAMSEW
Introducing the MadamSew Sew
Bright LED Light Strip, the solution
for confident sewing! Illuminate
your workspace with 24 powerful
dimmable LEDs, ensuring precise
stitching, flawless embroidery, and
professional quilting. This versatile
strip universally fits any sewing
machine, boasting easy, non-
technical installation. Experience
enhanced concentration with its
clean, white light tinged with a subtle
hint of blue or purple, refining your
hems, quilting, and appliqué work
effortlessly. Easily customizable
to fit various machine sizes, the
MadamSew Sew Bright LED Light
Strip banishes shadows, offering
direct, crisp light for accurate sewing
on all brands and models. Step into
the light and sew with confidence!
madamsew.com
MAGAZINE HOLDER BY RIFLE PAPER CO.
Got a treasured stash of Sew News magazines es that need a stylish home? Rifle Paper
Co.’s magazine holder is the answer! It’s partt of their awesome paper-wrapped desk
gear lineup. Whether you use it solo or team it up with other pieces it’ll glam up
3
your storage. Decked out in their Peacock print
rint with gold foil jazz, it even sports a
handy label holder for easy peeks at what’s inside!
nside! riflepaperco.com
FASHIONARY STYLEPEDIA
Hey there all you fashionistas! Step into a time-
traveling fashion adventure with an encyclopedia 5
that’s like a style time machine! Explore the stories
behind the last 100 years of styles and subcultures,
from their origins to their influence on cultures MADE IN 2024 ORGANIC COTTON
and the elements that make them iconic. With LABELS BY SARAH HEARTS
more than 1,200 illustrations, it’s like having a visual Give your 2024 creations a touch of personality with these
passport to each unique style—perfect for diving adorable labels! Made of super soft organic cotton and printed
deep into the fashion history pool! fashionary.org with rich black ink, they’re perfect for dating your handmade
wonders. Stitch them on easily and voilà! They’re gentle on
the skin, totally washable, and tough enough for the dryer’s
heat. Each pack comes with eight labels, making sure your
crafts get that special finishing touch! shop.sarahhearts.com
FABRIC MARKING PENCIL BY PRYM
Get ready to up your sewing game with Prym’s super exclusive marking pencil! Perfect for
pinpointing seams and patchwork, especially when you’re working with stencils. This pencil is
6
designed for precision and comfort—it fits like a dream in your hand! Its fine white or colored
cartridge ensures precise tracing on both light and dark fabrics. Plus, there’s an eraser up
top to tidy up any marks. And the best part? When you wash your creation, *poof*—
marks gone! You can even swap out the refill cartridges and erasers separately,
keeping your pencil fresh for all your future crafting adventures! prym.com
7 CARTRIDGE PENCIL REFILLS IN COLORS!

Get ready to splash some color into your sewing world with
Prym’s marking pencil refills! These babies come in white, yellow,
black, and pink—talk about a rainbow of creativity! With a fine
stroke width of .9mm, they’re perfect for nailing those quilting
patterns and transferring templates with precision. Get your hands
on packets containing 18 cartridges of black, yellow, and pink, or
snag a packet of 6 white ones. They even come in a sturdy plastic
box that doubles as their cozy storage spot. It’s like giving your
marking pen a wardrobe refresh—making sure it’s always ready for
its starring role in your sewing kit! prym.com
PERSONALIZED SEAM RIPPER TOOL

FROM SDSGNSTUDIO ON ETSY
Introducing a sewing superstar: a personalized tool
that’s as unique as your creations! Engrave your
name and make this sewing tool truly one of a kind.
But wait, there’s more! This mighty tool is not just
about looks—it’s a multitasking hero. Use it to rescue
threads, pop open buttonholes, and bid farewell to
pesky clothing tags and buttons with ease. Perfect for
all things needlework, sewing, and even leatherwork.
Calling all seamstresses, crafters, and fashionistas—this
isn’t just a tool, it’s a game-changer! Think of it as your
trusty sidekick for sewing adventures and beyond.
www.etsy.com/listing/1357474366
BASIC SKILLS
Pleats
Pleating is a great way to help fabric conform
to the contours of a three-dimensional body.
Read on to learn about different types of
pleats and how to sew them.
Pleats are pressed or topstitched folds in fabric that control
fullness. They’re very versatile; you’ll find them in garments, TIP: When marking pleats,
such as skirts and pants, as well as in home décor projects, use one color to mark the
such as drapes, tablecloths, pillows, bed skirts, and more. fold lines and a second
color to mark the
placement lines.
STITCHING A PLEAT
To form a pleat, fold the fabric on the fold line and bring the
fold to the placement line, following the arrow on the pattern. 1
Hand-baste or pin each pleat along the folded edge to tem-

porarily secure in place.
Baste across the pleat upper edges.
Press the pleat before attaching the piece to the rest of
the garment.
Follow the pattern instructions if edgestitching or topstitch-
ing is required for the desired look.
2
PLEAT TYPES
There are two basic types of pleats: fabric folds created by
doubling the fabric on itself and folds with an underlay or
separate fabric piece stitched to the pleat extensions on
the garment wrong side. There are three well-known pleat
variations that are used singly, in groups, or around an
entire garment.
Knife, or side, pleats have all the folds turned to one side (1).
This is the most basic pleat type. Each pleat will have one fold
line and one placement line.
Box pleats have two folds that face away from each other 3
and underfolds that meet at the center (2). Each pleat has two
fold lines and two placement lines.
Inverted pleats have two folds turned toward each other that
meet in the center (3). Inverted pleats are the opposite of box
pleats. The pattern will have two fold lines and one place-
ment line per pleat. The pleat inner portion is often a separate
section stitched to the garment to add an accent when the
pleat flips open.
TIP: For small,
repeating pleats,
use a ruffler foot.
Its complex design
is suited to a variety
of pleats, from
loose to compact.
PRESSING
PERFECTION When stitching inverted pleats from 4
the wrong side, there’s an addi-
Proper pressing is the key to
tional stitching method, though it’s
creating successful pleats.
Lightly press or steam pleats recommended for sturdier fabrics
to create soft folds, or press that won’t show stitching holes.
hard and sharp for more Match the two fold lines and baste,
distinct folds. Because it’s folding the excess fabric to the
necessary to press through
wrong side (4). Spread open the
several fabric layers, use a
steam iron for best results, underfold and align the placement
and always use a press cloth. line with the basting line (5). Pin,
To eliminate ridges on the and then baste in place through all
garment right side, place layers. Press, and then remove the
strips of paper between the basting along the fold lines.
pleat folds and the outer
garment when pressing. Create pleats from the fabric right
To create soft pleats, lay or wrong side, depending on how
the project was designed and the 5
a dry press cloth over the
pleat fold on the garment desired method. When forming
right side. Press lightly, or pleats from the right side, transfer
steam the pleats from about the pattern markings to the right
2" above the fabric. Let cool
side; when forming pleats from the
and dry completely before
moving the fabric. wrong side, transfer the markings to
the wrong side.
To create crisp pleats, lay a
damp press cloth over the SOURCES
pleat folds and apply the full Michael Miller Fabrics provided the fabric for the pinch
pressure of the iron. Press pleat, diamond pleat, and pencil pleat samples:
michaelmillerfabrics.com.
both the right and wrong side
of the pleat, letting it cool Waverly Fabrics provided the fabric for the goblet pleat
sample: waverly.com.
and dry before moving.
PLEATS AT PLAY
Because pleats on home décor projects are often more decorative than functional, they
allow a sewist to get creative in a way that’s difficult when the base idea is fitting a body.
Here are some fun pleat-based looks to inspire your next home-dec project.
Pinch pleats, also called French pleats, Diamond pleats are double pinch
are classic pleats that are great for pleats with the upper and lower pleat
window treatments. They’re typically edges tacked together to create a
made with two or three 5⁄8" to 1"wide diamond effect.
pleats, spaced 3" to 4" apart.
3 Pinch 2 Pinch
Goblet pleats are constructed in Pencil pleats are long, narrow,

the same manner as pinch pleats, closely spaced pleats. They create
but without individual smaller pleats. a very full decorative curtain. Use
Hang goblet pleats with drapery hooks curtain tape with pull cords to create
attached to each pleat wrong side. pencil pleats. They are best for long,
casual window treatments.
FROM
Fashion SCHOOL
BY SNEHA KC
Meet Taisiya Aristakesyan, a fashion design student from Syracuse
University. She has a style that is a mix of classical and avant-garde
with a focus on unusual details. Her future goals are to be part of
a team that is working on new and innovative ideas in fashion.
SN: Who first introduced you to sewing? she showed me every step of sewing
that tulle skirt, I still remember messing
T: My first interaction with sewing occurred during an
up more than half of its construction in
internship with a small atelier in my last year of high school.
my efforts to put the skirt together. Back
The owner of the atelier, a family friend, graciously asked me
then, sewing seemed really challenging;
to come to her studio space and work as her assistant for
however, I successfully put the skirt
a couple of weeks so that I could have a better look into a
together after a couple of tries.
fashion design path. I didn’t know how to sew at all at that
time, so she showed me how to use a sewing machine and SN: When and how did you begin to
introduced me to some basic sewing techniques. Back then, I take a serious interest in sewing?
wasn’t allowed to sew much of what she was working on, but
I was observing and learning how to sew step by step. T: A serious interest in sewing came to
me when I returned to the same atelier
SN: Tell us about your first experience sewing a garment months later with a sketch of my high
or accessory. school prom dress. I wanted to design
my own dress, and the atelier allowed
T: During my last week with this small atelier, the owner
me to participate in its construction
allowed me to work on a personal project. The first garment I
process. I then realized there is so
wanted to create was a dusty blue maxi tulle skirt. Even though
much more to sewing than just putting
a garment together; there are so many
different fields and techniques of sewing,
each of which gives you a different
outcome. While creating my dress, I had
my first encounter with corsetry and
hand sewing.
SN: Why did you choose to attend a

fashion design program at a regular
university instead of a design school?
What made you decide to attend
Syracuse University?
T: On one hand, coming from a
mathematical background, I wanted to
have freedom in the ability to study other
subjects along with pursuing a degree in
fashion design. I wanted to take classes
involving math and business skills, such
as accounting and finances. And I wanted
to pursue writing and history and explore
other arts, too. On the other hand, I
wanted access to a multidisciplinary
network and the opportunity to build
long-term connections with people from
different areas of study, such as business,
journalism, biotechnology, architecture,
etc. Interdisciplinary communication
and knowledge play a critical part in my
creative journey. Every day, other people
inspire me to see and approach my
projects, fashion design, and the industry
from different perspectives. And with
PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE ARTIST
its many colleges and majors, Syracuse

seemed like the perfect place for the
diverse experience I wanted access to.
SN: What aspects of Syracuse’s fashion
design program do you like best?
T: One of my favorite parts of the SU
fashion design program is that, along
with technical knowledge, our professors
encourage creativity while teaching us
how to execute our ideas thoroughly,
according to industry standards. There is
always something to explore and achieve,
and there is always the most effective way
to do so. With every project, there is an
entirely different brief, approach, technique,
or competition to interact with. And our
professors are always there to help us grow
our creative minds.
SN: Is there a particular sewing-related

class or project that helped you grow?
T: The tailoring class that I took at SU as
part of a mandatory curriculum last fall
semester will always have a special place
in my heart. In this class, we learned many
traditional tailoring techniques, including
sewing, used by tailors to create bespoke
suits for their customers. For our final
project, our class was tasked with creating
a tailored jacket of our own design. While
working on my tailored jacket for this class,
I discovered many new things, from sewing
techniques to sewing sequences and how to
utilize sewing to your advantage to achieve
precisely what you want your garment to be.
SN: Describe your style or aesthetic

as a designer.
T: A mix of classical and avant-garde that is
restrained but intriguing, frequently focused
on unusual and innovative details and
sometimes forms.
SN: After graduation, how do you want to move forward
SN: How exactly do you incorporate in your career?
sewing into your designs?
T: Looking to the future, I want to continue my path as a
T: I consider sewing a critical stage of fashion designer, create, and become part of a team working
my creative process and approach it as on something new and innovative that represents a canvas
a problem-solving exercise every time I for consumers to build their confidence and courage. Right
utilize it in a project. Since I tend to work after graduation, I look forward to joining a team like this.
with complex concepts and details, the Then, farther into the future, I want to create a brand and
sewing process is always a challenge for lead a team of my own that will bring something new to its
me in figuring out how to put everything customers—not necessarily just on the level of the product
together most effectively and functionally. itself, but in experience and emotion, too.
In every project, there is always at least one
new sewing technique or sequence I must SN: What advice would you give to beginner sewers or
discover and use to achieve the desired students who want to pursue design as a career?
result. And almost always, it’s a blend of T: Do not rush. Be patient and stay open-minded to different
using a sewing machine and incorporating concepts and information. There is so much more to garment
hand-sewing techniques. creation than just sewing or design!
FAVORITE February/March 2015
Our 35th anniversary brought with it
an emphasis on fitting skills and the
COVERS! innovative tools hitting the market.
OVER A REMARKABLE SPAN OF FORTY-THREE YEARS,

Sew News magazine graced newsstands and nestled into
countless mailboxes, serving as a bastion of sewing insights,
invaluable tips, interviews featuring prominent figures within the
sewing sphere, and a treasure trove of breathtaking patterns. As
we bid adieu to the tangible print edition, let’s pause to indulge in
a reflective moment, revisiting a selection of our most cherished
covers that have adorned the magazine through the years!
August/September 2020 Here at Sew

August 1997 Embracing the trends
Daily, this issue is fondly christened “the
of the era: sheer fabrics, discussions
Covid issue” and stands as a testament to
on shapewear, and teaching
resilience amidst unprecedented adversity.
children to sew.
November/December 1980
Issue #1: The FIRST EVER
issue of Sew News magazine
April/May 2010 This issue served

as a repository of invaluable Spring 2023 Embracing a restrained set
insights, empowering enthusiasts and color scheme, its cover commanded
September 1987: Cindy Crawford to infuse their sewing projects with attention on newsstands, evoking nostalgic
High-end fashion for the home sewist. a sense of craftiness and flair. echoes of the ‘80s fashion-centric issues.
TOP PATTERNS
F R O M T H E PA S T
Welcome to the ultimate
sewing pattern treasure
trove! Here at Sew Daily,
we’ve delved into the
archives and handpicked
our all-time favorite
patterns that deserve a
prime spot in every
sewist’s collection. As we
take a nostalgic journey
through past treasures,
get ready to discover the
gems that have stood the
test of time, earning our
team’s stamp of approval.
Whether you’re a
seasoned pro or just
starting your sewing
adventure, these patterns
are a must-have for
unleashing your creativity
and crafting timeless
pieces. So without further AGAVE TOP & DRESS
ado, let’s dive into our Calling all trendsetters! Feast your eyes on the Agave Top—formerly known
as the Up in Arms pattern. This is our ultimate ace for showcasing fabulous
top Sew Daily pattern fabrics and dazzling embellishments. Whether you’re just diving into sewing
picks—your ticket to or you’re a seasoned pro, this pattern is your golden ticket to crafting a
timeless top or dress. Its clean lines and straightforward silhouette are a
sewing success! canvas for fabric that deserves the spotlight. Rock it casually or amp it up
for fancier affairs—versatility is its middle name! And here’s the kicker: it’s a
dream for adding those personal touches and hacking it into endless style
variations. Get ready to elevate your wardrobe game with this gem!
ANTERO SHELL
Attention, fashion aficionados! The Antero
Shell— is a must-have in every sewist’s arsenal.
Why? Because it’s the epitome of versatility and
style rolled into one fabulous pattern! This one
ticks off all the boxes: easy to sew, adaptable to
various fabric types, and oh-so-hackable for
creating those bespoke, envy-inducing tops.
Move over, basic tees—this blouse is the sophis-
ticated upgrade your wardrobe craves, whether
you’re jet-setting or enjoying homebound
escapades. Plus, with its optional pieced front,
it’s a magician with fabrics—requiring just a
touch, making it perfect for scrap-busting and
trendy color blocking. Get ready to unleash your
creativity with this wardrobe game-changer!
PAGOSA PANTS
Let’s talk summer style essentials! The Pagosa Pants are
our ultimate swoon-worthy, swishy must-haves—ideal
for those sunny vibes and beyond! Picture this: not one,
but two leg-width options—wide or tapered—giving
you the power to choose your fashion destiny. These
babies boast deep patch pockets, belt loops, and a
sleek self-fabric belt for that extra touch of chic.
Comfort? Check! These pants bring roominess at the
hip, ensuring absolute comfort without compromis-
ing on style. And guess what? The elastic waistband is
your secret weapon for that customized waist-hugging
feel—soft shaping galore! Say hello to your new go-to
for effortless style and unmatched comfort!
EASY AS TIE DRESS
Listen up, fashion trailblazers! Say hello to the ultimate entry-level
dress that’s as easy-breezy as a summer day. This pattern is a
gateway to creating a wardrobe essential that’ll swiftly become a
tried and true pattern. Beginners, rejoice! You’ll dive into fuss-free
techniques and even pick up the art of crafting tie bands for
those chic shoulder straps—talk about leveling up your sewing
game! Picture yourself whipping up a playful spring dress that’s
all about those adorable ties. This knit sensation isn’t just a breeze
to sew; it’s a dream to flaunt! Choose from an array of recom-
mended knits—think cotton Lycra, sweater knit, French terry, or
jersey—for a dress that’s as comfy as it is stylish. Get ready to sew
your way to effortless fashion flair!
LOVELAND LEGGINGS
Behold the unsung hero of layering: the legendary legging!
Move over, cardigans—Loveland Leggings are the new
essential for your wardrobe lineup. These babies, boasting a
seamless side seam, are simplicity at its finest, making them
a dream project for beginners and a playground for custom-
ization enthusiasts. The pattern comes packed with options,
too: think various waistbands, cuffs, and hem treatments—
basically, your ticket to personalized perfection. And here’s
the fabric 411: opt for four-way stretch knits with at least 5%
spandex and fabulous recovery. Get ready to sculpt your
legs into fashion-forward wonders!
PENROSE
PEASANT BLOUSE
Get ready to elevate your style game with the
Penrose Blouse pattern—a fusion of chic sophistica-
tion and effortless wearability! This stunner brings the
heat with its on-point square neckline and those
oh-so-dreamy bust gathers, delivering that dramatic
volume without sacrificing practicality for your
everyday adventures. Available in sizes 0 to 34, it’s a
pattern designed to flatter a wide range of fashionis-
tas. It’s also a chameleon, effortlessly stitching up in a
variety of woven fabrics—eyelet included—to suit your
every mood and occasion. Say hello to your new
wardrobe hero, effortlessly stylish and utterly versatile!
TOP PATTERNS
FIVE POINTS BLOUSE

Prepare to be wowed by this chic blouse that exudes under-
stated elegance! While its design speaks in whispers of simplic-
ity, there’s a secret weapon: a front zipper that delivers that
extra oomph, instantly elevating any ensemble. And here’s the
scoop: it’s not just a fashion statement, it’s a scrap-busting
superhero! This quick-sew wonder is your ticket to showcasing
that special fabric in lightning speed. Who knew a blouse could
be this versatile and fashion-forward?
HIGHLANDS LEATHER PURSE

Ladies and gents, get ready to stitch up a masterpiece—an iconic,
contrasting leather purse destined to cradle your everyday must-
haves! This bag? It’s a glorious blend of retro vibes and everlasting
style. What’s the secret sauce, you ask? The power lies in your hands—
pick your leather hues, tweak the design, and voilà! Instantly transform
its look and feel. Customization is the name of the game, especially
when it comes to that strap length—tailored just for your conve-
nience. Talk about a purse that doesn’t play by seasonal rules! It’s a
year-round superstar, ready to accompany you through every chapter
of your style journey. And hey, for the hands-free fashionistas among
us, the crossbody strap option is an absolute game-changer!
TIPS FOR
WORKING
WITH
Sheer
Fabrics BY BETH BYRGE
S
heer fabrics are becoming more well as the silk I used. If you abso-
widely available to the home lutely must combine a sheer fabric
sewist, but extra care should be with a structured pattern, think about
taken when you sew with them. With lining or underlining it to give the
the right planning, you can create a proper structure. You may still be able
beautiful dress like this silk chiffon to enjoy the look of a sheer fabric
Wilder Gown (pattern from Friday even with a lining.
Pattern Company). Before you start
on your next sheer garment, follow TESTING, TESTING
these tips for success. Sewing test stitches is about as fun
as making a muslin, but in this case it
KNOW YOUR FIBER is extremely important for good
AND PATTERN results. Each sheer fabric is unique,
The outcome of any sewing project and the only way to determine the
is inextricably tied to good pressing. If best way to sew it is to test out
you are considering a sheer fabric different stitches.
that is polyester, remember that it will
not press as well as silk or another Check your test swatches for
natural fiber. If the project you have in puckering seams, as well as visibility
mind is complicated and requires of seam allowances through the
pressing to mold it into shape, a fabric. You want your construction
heat-resistant polyester may not be stitches to be durable but not so
the best choice. strong that they damage the delicate
fabric. You will need to find the
The simple lines of the Wilder Gown proper balance of all these factors,
by Friday Pattern Company would and you can only do that by testing.
have been suitable for polyester, as
HERE ARE A FEW HOW WILL YOU WEAR IT?
THINGS TO TRY: Lastly, consider how you will wear
• Straight stitch in varying lengths or style your finished item. Is it a
for construction swim cover-up? Will you make a bold
• Zigzag for finishing seams statement and wear it over only
undergarments? Or will you keep it
• Serger for finishing seams less shocking and wear a slip that
• French seam blends in?
In general, you will want a small I love wearing my Wilder Gown over
universal needle, 70/10. a hot pink linen slip. Mixing black and
white together is also a fun contrast.
If you are having trouble with your Look for styling inspiration online and
machine sucking the fabric into the experiment with different items in
throat plate, try the tissue paper trick, your closet.
a tear-away stabilizer, and/or reduc-
ing the presser foot pressure.
CONSIDER THE SELVAGE

Many sheer fabrics are woven with
an interesting selvage. Take advan-
tage of the finished edge and
consider using it along the hem of
your garment.
My sheer Wilder Gown uses the

selvage in two different ways. The
bottom tier is cut on the crossgrain
so that the selvage is the hem. The
rest of the dress is cut on the straight
grain, which means that the woven
dots are at a different angle than the
bottom tier. Consider if this sort of
difference will be noticeable in your
garment (and whether or not you
care if it is). I love the selvage as the
hem because it saved me from a
long, tedious baby hem in silk chiffon.
I also cut a section of the selvage off

and used it as the tie in the neckline.
Since there were no woven dots in
that portion, the fabrication looks
consistent but complementary.
tip The fabric wants
to shift during stitching, so
consider holding the fabric
taut from the front and back
while moving it under the
presser foot. This should
help keep the fabric from
puckering during stitching.
A LOOK INSIDE
To stitch your own sheer Wilder
Gown using silk chiffon or a similar
lightweight fabric, follow these tips
for best success:
• Many times with lightweight
or “slippery” fabric, the pieces
want to shift during stitching.
Consider finishing the raw edges
of each piece before stitching
together. This will ensure that no
raw edges will be missed and will
make the construction easier.
• Doing a double-folded hem
can sometimes be difficult on
delicate fabric. Finish the raw
hem first with a serger or zigzag
stitch and then use it as a guide
to fold to the wrong side before
stitching down the hem.
SEW SCRAPPY:
Refresh YourSpace BY SADIE METTER
Keep your relaxation and sleepy-time activities organized and

at your fingertips with this felt and leather bedside organizer.
SUPPLIES
• 1 yard of wool felt
fabric (44" wide)
• Leather scraps
• 1" 3-ring binder
• Leather sewing needle
PREPARE
Remove the ring hardware
from the binder using pliers
and some elbow grease.
Lay the binder flat and

measure both the length and
width. Add 1⁄2" seam allow-
ance to both numbers. The
sample measurements ended
up being 211⁄2" × 121⁄2".
From the felt cut two

rectangles in the measure-
ment above, three rectangles
10" × 3", and one pocket
rectangle 8" by the width
determined above.
From the leather cut

two rectangles
7" × 3".
tip Regardless
of the size of binder
you are working with,
make sure you have
plenty of excess
felt in your seam
allowance to easily
sew around the
binder material
without accidentally
stitching the plastic
binder. You may
break a needle.
CONSTRUCT 1 2
Seam allowance is 1⁄4" unless
otherwise noted.
2"
With one large rectangle on a
flat surface, measure and mark a
parallel line 2" below the upper
edge. Align the pocket piece
with the marked line and both
side raw edges. Stitch the pocket
in place along the lower raw
edge and down the center of
the pocket (1).
Place the second large rectangle

along the wrong side of the
stitched main and pocket piece.
Stitch together along short end
and both long sides, leaving the
lower short end open.
3 4
Slide the binder between the 2" 2"
two layers of felt. Before closing,
insert the short end of each
narrow strip of felt 1". The strips
can be evenly spaced along the
open end. Pin in place.
Stitch the opening closed,

catching the strips in the
stitched line (2).
With the leather rectangle on a

flat surface, mark the center of
one long side and a point 2" out
on either side. With a straight
edge, mark a line from each point
to the corresponding corner on
the opposite side (3). You are left
with a trapezoid that is 4" at the
top and 7" at the bottom.
Measure and mark a notch 2"

in along each long side. With
the leather trapezoid long side
toward the top, line up the
angled end with the side of the
main wrong sides together. Stitch
to the main, making sure to
move the binder away from the
seam (4). Repeat with remaining
end of leather piece.
THE COMMON THREAD
Photo provided by See The Worth
SPOTLIGHT ON SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES:
Two Businesses That

Take It to the Next Level
In the world of fashion, upcycling is wearable clothing. By rescuing these also fosters a deeper sense of value
gaining momentum as a truly creative items from landfills, adding value among consumers, challenging the
and sustainable solution to the to them, and reintroducing them throwaway culture that often plagues
industry’s mounting waste problem. into the fashion cycle, upcycling the fashion industry.
embodies the concept of circular
Essentially, upcycling in fashion Take a look at two businesses that are
fashion. It’s an innovative approach
means taking old or worn-out textiles taking this idea to the next level.
that not only reduces waste but
and transforming them into stylish,
See The Worth tackles fast fashion
SEE THE by producing unique items from

end-of-use textiles. Starting out as a
WORTH
research project between Fanshawe
College and Goodwill Industries, See
The Worth has transformed into
a circularity platform that brings
new sustainable products to
See The Worth is part of Goodwill market while educating consumers
Industries and is located in Ontario, about the damaging effects
Canada. Their mission is “to educate of the fast fashion industry.
the next generation of consumers on
Goodwill’s goal is to empower
the social and environmental impact
workers to advance their careers by
associated with hyper-consumerism
eliminating barriers as they gain work
and fast fashion.”
experience, strengthen confidence,
attain in-demand labor market skills,
In today’s world, it’s alarming to
and build toward a better career.
know that the fashion industry
All See The Worth products are
stands as the second-largest
sewn locally in London, Ontario,
contributor to pollution globally.
at the Goodwill Industries Great
As this industry expands, the
Lakes Center, providing work, skills
environmental toll it takes continues
training, and fair wages to people
to rise. See The Worth’s purpose is
who face barriers to employment.
rooted in reducing the allure of fast
fashion and advocating for a more See The Worth is committed to
sustainable choice. They craft lasting slow, circular fashion that benefits
pieces by repurposing textiles that communities and allows for unique,
have reached the end of their retail one-of-a-kind expression. Intentional
journey, rescuing them from post- design is at the company’s core as
retail and reuse channels. Every item they create functional and stylish
they collect serves a purpose; they quality pieces out of discarded
use 100% of these articles. Their textiles that are ready to live their
approach is simple yet powerful: zero next life. All proceeds from sales
waste and fully circular. They firmly are directed back into the platform,
believe that every piece has value, allowing for continued quality
even after it has been discarded, and design and manufacturing, circularity
they are dedicated to proving that in research, and skills training. You can
every stitch. feel good investing in products that
are made with love and that create
See The Worth isn’t only focused
a positive impact on our community
on the environment; they are all
and planet!
about people, too! At their facility in
Canada, they take pride in offering Be sure to look in their online shop.
remanufactured products crafted You can find T-shirts, shorts, pet
by folks at Goodwill Industries. jackets, bags, and so much more.
Their mission goes beyond just Their inventory changes regularly
providing quality items; they also and with the seasons. They also have
run a social benefits program. This a section called The Cocoon Shop,
initiative is dedicated to empowering where you can find cozy jackets and
newcomers to Canada and individuals vests made from preloved quilts.
overcoming employment obstacles. Feel good about what you buy and
They focus on imparting essential consume!
skills, functional language education,
and meaningful work opportunities. Learn more about See The Worth at
It’s their way of making a difference www.seetheworth.com.
in people’s lives while delivering top-
notch remanufactured goods.
SUAY
SEW SHOP
In response to the global call for
change from businesses, Suay Sew
Shop’s commitment to innovative design,
combined with a passion for activism,
places repurposed items at the heart
of a transformative movement shaping
society, economy, and environment.
According to Suay Sew Shop, prioritizing
upcycling has the potential to significantly
transform both our planet and our
everyday lives. We at Sew News agree!
Suay, established in 2017 and

headquartered in Los Angeles, is
a vertically integrated sewing and
production shop. They are at the
forefront of the clean-up economy,
crafting their products from a blend of
post-consumer waste, deadstock, and
domestically sourced organic fibers.
Situated in a 5,000 sq. ft. sewing facility
and retail space in northeast L.A., Suay
is shaping a new generation of textile
recyclers in the garment industry. Their
team of 30 employees is dedicated
to eliminating the substantial waste
generated by the fashion industry. Be
sure to read more about their mission
and impact at www.suayla.com.
Take a peek in their online shop and

you will find napkin sets, reusable
paper towels, body pillows, remade
quilts, and so much more!
But wait—there’s more. Each month

Suay offers a community dye bath.
If you are local to the L.A. area, you
can drop off items to be dyed. They
also accept mail-in orders. They
offer 5–7 colors each month to over-
dye your clothes. The colors change
and rotate each month, and they take
color requests! What a great idea for
those well-loved but stained or fading
Photos provided by Suay LA
garments we all have in our closets.
Learn more about Suay Sew Shop at

www.suayla.com.
MASTERCLASS
THE ART OF
Topstitching
BY LINDA REYNOLDS
Topstitching is a
basic skill that’s
often challenging.
Read on to
discover tools
and techniques
to ensure perfect
topstitching
every time.
Topstitching is a rather straight- While most commonly stitched on a right side, it must be carefully
forward technique that requires sewing machine, topstitching can chosen. As is the case with most
simply stitching a straight or curved also be achieved by hand, which garment sewing, select a thread that’s
line. Topstitching is either achieved lends a more refined couture finish. appropriate to the fabric weight and
with a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, Whether done on the machine or by that will achieve the desired look (1).
double-row stitch using a twin hand, give careful consideration to
needle, or any number of decorative the choice of stitch, thread, presser In most cases the same thread used
stitches. Since it’s always visible from foot, needle, stitch length, and to construct the project is suitable
the right side, it’s important that distance from the edge or seam line. for the topstitching, such as an all-
topstitching is sewn with precision purpose polyester thread. But for
to present a professional-looking THREAD heavier-weight fabrics, such as thick
finish. It takes a steady hand, a good The choice of thread is paramount, woolens or denim, a thicker, more
eye, and the right tools and tech- as it’s instrumental to achieving durable specialty topstitching thread
niques, not to mention practice. the desired topstitching effect. And is advised. Topstitching thread creates
because it’s visible from the project a more raised effect and therefore
32 S E W N E W S.CO M SPRING 2024
FROM THE TOP
A popular form of garment
finishing, topstitching is a row or
rows of stitching visible from the
garment right side, serving both
functional and aesthetic purposes.
As a decorative finish, topstitching
emphasizes or accentuates a
garment’s structural lines and style
elements, while at the same time it
keeps seams secured to seam
allowances, makes edges lay flat,
and adds general stability to
finished seams.
stands out more. When using this Color is another element to consider of thread to that equation. Choose a
specialty thread, consider using all- when selecting the right thread for needle that will deliver the sharpest,
purpose thread in the bobbin. topstitching. The most common most even stitching; test before you
choice is to choose a thread that sew. Consider microfiber needles,
For finely tailored garments, silk matches the fashion fabric. This is which are exceptionally sharp and
buttonhole twist produces an elegant best for most general topstitching. For designed to deliver precise, crisp,
topstitching finish. Use a size 16 a bit more impact, select a tone that even stitches.
needle or a topstitching needle is either slightly lighter or darker. For
and adjust the tension accordingly. an even more dramatic effect, choose For thicker threads, such as
Very lightweight fabrics like silk or a color that’s in total contrast. topstitching thread or embroidery
chiffon require a much finer thread. floss, specialty topstitching needles
The options include silk thread or a NEEDLES are available. They’re designed with
specialty embroidery thread. In these As is the case with any machine a larger eye to accommodate the
cases as well, use all-purpose thread sewing, the choice of needle for thicker thread and a tip that delivers
in the bobbin. These options add topstitching should correspond to the precise stitches.
shine and refinement to the overall fabric weight and type. Add the choice
topstitching appearance.
1
All-purpose thread
Rayon embroidery thread
Topstitching thread
All-purpose thread
using triple stitch
S E W N E W S.CO M 33
2
4.0 mm twin needle
2.0 mm twin needle
3 4 5 6
A way to add real impact to topstitch- PRESSER FEET as the guide and move the needle
ing is to use a twin needle (2). With Any number of presser feet can be left or right to achieve the desired
two needles mounted on a single used for topstitching. Choose one stitching distance.
shaft, a twin needle will produce two that allows for easy visualization
perfectly spaced rows of stitches and produces the straightest and A blind-hem foot or an edge-
simultaneously. Twin needles come most evenly spaced stitching. The stitching foot, also known as an
in a variety of sizes and types de- key is to choose a presser foot that edge-joining foot or a stitch-in-the-
signed for different types of fabrics. either guides the fabric or your eye ditch foot, works especially well
They also come in many different to achieve a straight stitch. The for either edge stitching or narrow
needle-separation widths to create universal foot is a great choice for topstitching. These types of presser
different effects. this purpose. Use the foot edge feet feature a vertical guide that
34 S E W N E W S.CO M SPRING 2024

rides against the fold, seam line
or edge to help achieve straight
and evenly spaced stitching. Other
options include a standard zipper
foot, presser feet with adjustable
vertical guides, or a multiple-guide
presser foot (3).
STITCHING OPTIONS
When it comes to topstitching,
the stitch options are endless.
While most topstitching is done
with a simple straight stitch, there
are many other styles and options.
• A zigzag stitch adds a light
decorative effect (4).
• The triple straight stitch is a very
durable stitch commonly used on
denim jeans. It adds an element of
Getty Images/Alicia Llop

stretch to the stitching. The triple
straight stitch creates three stitches
in one, which makes a bold top-
stitching statement (5).
• Decorative stitches turn any
ordinary topstitching into a bold
statement. When choosing a STITCHING TIPS
decorative stitch, you’re only
limited by the number of stitches Use the following tips to perfect your topstitching technique.
your machine offers (6).
• Don’t backstitch to lock topstitching. Pull the top thread to the
For more impact, thread the machine wrong side and tie the tails together to give the right side a clean
needle with two threads of any type. finish. Trim the tails and then bury them between the fabric fibers.
The resulting stitch will look very • Check the tension. Test on a fabric scrap to make sure the ten-
much like the triple straight stitch, but sion creates an attractive, even stitch with no puckering or skipped
it’s less durable and doesn’t stretch. stitches. The stitches should be well balanced, even, and identical on
the right and wrong sides.
EDGESTITCHING VS. • Play around with the stitch length. A slightly larger than construction
TOPSTITCHING stitch length typically looks better, but always test before you stitch
Edgestitching is a form of topstitching, to get the length that looks best for the fabric, thread choice, and
and both tasks require the same desired effect.
considerations. The main difference is • When topstitching around a corner, mark the pivot point beforehand
that edgestitching refers to stitching to ensure the topstitching distance remains consistent after the turn.
that’s placed very close to the • Topstitching can be any distance from an edge, fold, or seam, but
edge, usually 1⁄8" or less. This type of most topstitching falls into the 1⁄4" to 3⁄8" range.
topstitching is generally found around
• Patience is key to the best-looking topstitching, so stitch slowly and
collars, front plackets and sleeve
carefully to maintain evenly spaced, straight stitches.
plackets, on classic or tailored shirts.
Topstitching more generally refers to • Most importantly, for the very best results, test and practice before
stitching that’s anywhere more than you begin any topstitching.
1
⁄8" from the edge.
S E W N E W S.CO M 35
Wrap THAT’S A
BY HELEN WILKINSON
Revitalize a classic culottes
pattern by envisioning it as the
foundation for a stylish pair of
wrap pants. Embrace creativity
as you reinterpret the design,
adding a distinctive wrap-
around element that breathes
new life into the garment,
merging modern flair with
timeless comfort.
SUPPLIES
• Pleated culottes pattern
(such as the Winslow Culottes
by Helen’s Closet Patterns)
• Light-to mediumweight woven
fabric (such as linen, twill, crepe
de chine, viscose poplin; amount
according to pattern instructions)
• Notions (according to pattern
instructions)
PREPARE
Download pattern. Print and cut
out front and back pieces.
From the fabric cut two front and

back pieces mirror image.
For the waist ties, measure the

upper edge of the front pant piece
and multiply by 2. To that number
add 20". The sample has a measure-
ment of 9½" along the upper edge,
giving you the following equation:
9.5 x 2 = 19 + 20 = 39"
From the fabric and interfacing

cut two ties that are 3" wide by
Photo by Helen’s Closet
the number above. For the sample

that is 3" x 39".
Apply interfacing to the wrong side

of each waist tie.
CONSTRUCT 1 3
Use 5⁄8" seam allowance unless otherwise
noted. Finish all seam allowances with a
zig zag stitch or serger.
Working with one leg at a time, fold the

raw edge of the side seam 3⁄8" to the wrong
side and press. Fold another 3⁄8" and press
and stitch. Repeat with remaining pant legs.
With right sides together, line up the front

and back legs along the inseams and pin in
place. Stitch pieces together and press the
seam allowances toward the back legs (1). 4
Open pant legs and match front and back

pieces along the crotch curve and inseam,
with right sides together. Stitch pieces
together and press seam allowance 2
toward one side (2).
Fold the short ends of each waist tie ½"

toward the wrong side and press well.
Match the center point of the waist tie

to the center back with right sides together.
Stitch the waistband in place, locking
stitches at both ends (3). Grade the
seam allowance. YOU CAN TIE THESE
wrap pants with the
Press the waist tie and seam allowance overlap in the front or
away from the pants. When reaching the tie the back; it’s totally up
that extends beyond the waistline, continue to you! It looks great
pressing the lower edge ½" toward the both ways. You may
wrong side. wonder, “What if a
strong wind comes
Fold the top edge of the waist tie ½" along?” Well, the wrap
toward the wrong side and press well (4). pants can expose
your legs on the sides,
Fold the upper pressed edge toward the but I find this is a rare
wrong side of the pants just covering the occurrence because
original stitch line. The seam allowance is there is plenty of
now enclosed by the waist tie. Pin the tie overlap. They can also
in place. drape open when
sitting or crouching
down, but, they do
tip Consider using a glue stick not expose any higher
for this step as it holds the fabric than the thigh.
in place without the use of pins.
Edgestitch around the waist tie with 1⁄8"

seam allowance. Repeat with second waist
tie and front pants pieces.
Hem pants according to the original

instructions.
MEND IT
BY HELEN FRANK
Mending clothing instead of discarding it

not only reduces waste and conserves
resources but also preserves cherished
memories and personal style, contributing
to a more sustainable and meaningful
wardrobe. Embracing the art of repair
empowers individuals to make mindful
choices, fostering a deeper connection
to their belongings and the environment.
Helen is taking your mending questions

and showing you how you can extend a
garment for years of wear.
Q A button has come off

my favorite sweater,
and part of what I
loved about the sweater
was the distinctive
buttons. I won’t be able
to find similar buttons
anywhere. How can
I fix my sweater so
that I don’t feel
disappointed with it?
A Instead of trying to replace what was there, why

not take the chance to add some pizzazz? If
you use the top button to replace the missing
one, a contrasting button can look right at
home in the top spot. If your sweater has gold
buttons, maybe choose a slightly larger gold
button at the top spot. If it has mother-of-pearl
buttons, maybe select a jet button for the top
spot. Instead of trying to hide something that
doesn’t match, let the difference shine.
Q
I was excited to get out my
spring clothes, but when I
tried on my favorite jean
shorts, the zipper busted
apart! I’m worried that I
may have put on a couple
of pounds over the winter,
although the shorts still
buttoned fine. Can the
zipper be fixed?
A
Zippers just wear out sometimes; it’s not necessarily the
fault of your body! To decide how to fix this zipper, we
need to identify which part broke.
• If the teeth are splitting open below the slider, you
probably need a new slider. Most sewing stores carry
zipper sliders, or you can salvage one from a pair of
jeans that is beyond repair. Most jean zippers
are the same size and therefore have the
same size sliders. To replace a slider,
remove the stop at the bottom with
pliers and slip the new slider on.
You might also need to remove
and replace some stitching at
the bottom of the zipper.
• If you’ve lost a couple teeth at
the bottom of the zipper, you can
simply put a new stopper over the
missing teeth and sacrifice the
bottom inch or so of the zipper.
This can happen after wearing a
pair of jeans for several years. If
you think your jeans only have six
months to a year left, why waste
time replacing the whole zipper?
• In the case of catastrophic zipper failure,
the whole thing can be replaced fairly
easily. The key to an undetectable zipper
replacement is picking apart the fly of your jeans
more than you think is necessary. Don’t just take the
zipper out; open up the flap and the cover completely. Putting those stitches
back in isn’t difficult, but fighting to fit the zipper into half–picked-apart jeans is!
Or do a lazy job, and accept that you’ll have a visible line of stitching down the
front of your fly. A lazy job is much better than not replacing the zipper at all.
Q I want to keep my
favorite summer
dress for years to
come, but I just
noticed a small
worn-down area
at the bottom of the
zipper. It looks like
I’ve pulled the fabric
too much. Can this
be fixed, or should
I say goodbye to
my dress?
A
You have a very common problem. How
else could you get your zipper up except
to pull at the bottom? Don’t blame
yourself; be glad that you noticed it early.
I suggest a technique called “machine

darning.” In this case, you’ll use a
straight stitch set at a regular length
and a thread color that matches your
dress. Stitch forward the length of the
worn area plus 1⁄4–1⁄2" on each end.
Then reverse-stitch back over the hole.
Go back and forth, moving a bit to the
side with each change of direction until
the entire hole is covered. Align your
stitches with the warp or weft of the
fabric so they are less noticeable.
Note: This technique works great for

patching the crotch area on jeans, too.
If you have a hole that doesn’t close
when you flatten your fabric, use a
patch on the underside of whatever
you’re patching.
Modern TerrazzoWALL HANGING
BY GINGER BAILEY
Utilizing fabric pieces in a quilted wall hanging to replicate the
appearance of mosaic tiles yields a captivating aesthetic that
imbues the artwork with a vibrant and textured quality. This
technique seamlessly combines the fabric’s intricate patterns
and colors to create a stunning, tiled effect within the quilt,
offering a visually appealing and unique wall décor.
SUPPLIES 1
• 1 yard cotton (front base)
• 1 yard cotton (back)
• 1⁄2 yard cotton (binding & hanging pockets)
• Cotton fat quarters or scraps (accent colors)
• Permanent iron-on fusible (see “Sources”)
• Fusible cotton batting (see “Sources”)
• Spray baste (see “Sources”)
• Erasable fabric marker
• Dowel or wood stick to hang
PREPARE
Cut front base fabric to 34" × 42" rectangle.
Cut 4 binding fabric strips 31⁄2" × 44". Fold and iron

strips lengthwise, wrong sides together.
With the remaining binding fabric, cut two 4" squares

and one strip 4" × 24". Fold and iron squares on the
2
diagonal, wrong side together to form triangles.
Fold strip first lengthwise, right sides together, and

sew 1⁄2" seams on short sides, then turn out wrong
sides together and iron so one long side is open (1).
Iron fusible paper to backs of accent color fabrics.

On the paper side, draw random shapes such as
stones, approximately 3–5" in size (2).
Cut shapes from accent fabric and arrange ran-

domly on quilt front. Once arranged, peel paper
backing and fuse it to front base fabric according to
manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut fusible batting to 35" × 43" rectangle. Fuse

batting to back of quilt top, ensuring smoothness.
Create a quilt sandwich by place the batting and

quilt top onto the wrong side of backing fabric. 3
Ensure the back fabric is smooth, and spray-baste the
backing fabric to the batting.
tip To easily spray-baste the fabric to the

batting, lift half the fabric at a time, spray,
and then smooth everything into place.
Using an erasable fabric marker (test first!),

mark the center points both horizontally and
vertically. From there create a 3" square grid
off the centers for quilting.
4
CONSTRUCT
Set the machine to a 3.5 stitch length; machine quilt
your lines, beginning at the center line and working out,
through all three layers. Iron. Trim excess batting and
backing fabric back to the original quilt top 34" × 42" size.
Working on a flat surface, place the quilt back right side Before applying the binding to the top and bottom raw
up. Position triangle hanging pockets on the back top edge of the quilt, open the binding and fold each short
corners, aligning raw edges; pin. Center the 24" strip end toward the wrong side 1⁄2" and press. Fold and press
between triangles along top edge, also matching raw the binding lengthwise again.
edges; pin. These will be attached as binding is added (3).
Align short folded edge of binding with folded bound
Align folded binding strip along the sides so that the edge of the quilt and upper raw edge (4). Stitch the
raw edges all match up. Stitch binding in place. Trim binding in place, stopping before reaching the end. Adjust
binding strip to the exact length of the quilt. the folded edge to be exactly the length of the quilt.
Press binding away from quilt and bring folded edge Finish binding process as explained above. Repeat with
toward the quilt front, covering the previous stitch line. remaining raw edge.
Topstitch the binding in place along the inside folded edge.
Hand stitch bottom edge of the 24" hanging pocket to
back of quilt to create a tunnel. Cut dowel to width and
tip To keep the binding in place before insert into channel and corner triangles (5).
stitching, try adding some glue to the wrong
SOURCES
side of the binding. Give it a press and the glue Odif carries 505 Temporary Fabric Adhesive: odifusa.com.
will hold everything in place while you stitch. Pellon carries H-4560P Fusible Cotton batting: pellonprojects.com.
Thermoweb carries HeatnBond Ultra: thermoweb.com.
HIT THE
TRAILS
Backpack
BY DENISE ALONSO
As the weather warms up,

sewing a sporty backpack
allows you to combine both
style and function, ensuring
you have a trendy accessory
to carry your essentials while
staying active. Choosing
vibrant, moisture-wicking
fabrics and incorporating
multiple compartments for
organization can create a
practical and fashionable
backpack for your
outdoor adventures.
SUPPLIES PREPARE
• 1 yard canvas (see “Sources”) • 11⁄2 yard elastic cord Download the Huckleberry
Backpack pattern. Print and cut out.
• 1⁄4 yard quilting cotton • 1 91⁄4" all-purpose zipper
From the canvas cut two main
• 21⁄4 yards woven fusible • 1 121⁄2" handbag zipper
body pieces, four side panels, one
interfacing (see “Sources”) • 1 1" parachute buckle pocket, one pocket gusset, and
• 1 yard flex foam • 2 1" slider adjusters four backpack straps.
• 1⁄4 yard batting • 2 1" D rings From the quilting cotton cut one
• 3 yards 5⁄8" wide pocket and one pocket gusset. From
• Denim sewing
fold-over elastic the interfacing cut two main body
machine needle
pieces, four side panels, one pocket,
• 3 yards 1" wide webbing • Zipper sewing foot and one pocket gusset. From the
• 1⁄3 yard 2" wide webbing • Fabric clips batting cut two backpack straps.
From the flex foam cut two side
panels, two main body pieces, and
1 one bottom piece.
From the 2" webbing cut two 6"
pieces for the parachute buckle.
From the 1" webbing cut one 101⁄2"
piece for strap covering, one 8" piece
for handle, two 131⁄2" pieces for
padded straps, and two 31" pieces
for adjustable straps.
Attach interfacing to the main
body, side panels, pocket, and pocket
gusset. Transfer all pattern markings.
CONSTRUCT
Use 1⁄4" seam allowances unless
otherwise noted.
Working on a flat surface, place the

main body lining piece with wrong
sides up. Arrange the flex foam
centered on the main body piece.
With the side panels wrong side up,
Most of the pattern pieces are place the flex foam centered with
rectangles, so to save paper the top edge 2 1⁄4" from the upper
consider using the cut chart edge of the panel (1).
for the following pieces.
CUT CHART
Material Body Side Panel Pocket Pocket Gusset Bottom

101⁄2" x 341⁄4" 51⁄2" x 15" 61⁄2" x 91⁄2" 11⁄2" x 301⁄2"
Main Fabric
(Cut 2) (Cut 4) (Cut 1) (Cut 1)
61⁄2" x 91⁄2" 11⁄2" x 301⁄2"
Lining
(Cut 1) (Cut 1)
101⁄2" x 341⁄4" 51⁄2" x 15" 61⁄2" x 91⁄2" 11⁄2" x 301⁄2"
Interfacing
(Cut 2) (Cut 4) (Cut 1) (Cut 1)
91⁄4" x 124⁄4" 47⁄8" x 124⁄4" 44⁄4" x 91⁄4"
Flex Foam
(Cut 1) (Cut 2) (Cut 1)
Attach the flex foam to the lining 2 4
by stitching 1⁄4" from the long sides
to tack down. Equally space lines of
stitching across the flex foam. For
the bottom and side panels, space
lines of stitching 1⁄2" apart, and for
the main body pieces, space lines
of stitching 1" apart (2).
With a ruler, measure and mark a

line 11⁄2" down from the long edge of
both pocket pieces. Cut along line
and set large pieces aside.
Working on a flat surface, sandwich

one edge of the 91⁄4" zipper between
the two zipper pocket pieces. Stitch
the three layers together. Turn right
side out and press fabric and seam
allowance toward fabric. Topstitch in 3
place 1⁄8" from the seam (3). Repeat
with lower larger pieces and opposite
side of zipper. Baste together around
outside edge of pocket.
With right sides together, place the

short ends of the main pocket gusset
together and stitch. Repeat for gusset
lining. Place main and lining gussets
wrong sides together and baste in
place along outside edges (4).
Align the gusset edge with the

outside edge of the pocket with right
sides together and clip in place (5).
5
Stitch together and trim seam
allowance to 1⁄8", binding the edge
with fold-over elastic. Finish the
outside raw edge of the gusset with a
serger or zigzag stitch and press
under 1⁄4", pressing well.
tip When stitching the gusset to the pocket,

work slowly. Start along one side and stitch until
reaching the corner; leave the needle down and lift
the presser foot. Pivot the fabric and arrange any
bulk behind the presser foot. Lower the presser
foot and stitch to the opposite corner. Continue
around the outside until reaching the starting point.
6
Handle Webbing
Handle Webbing
Backpack Strap
Backpack Strap
Webbing Strap Cover
webbing webbing Working on a flat surface, place the main

side panel placement side panel placement body with right sides up. Position the pocket
4" down from one end of the main piece
according to the diagram. Pin in place and
topstitch around outside edge.
Use the diagram to lay out the main bag (6).
Baste the batting to the wrong side of two

side panel placement side panel placement straps at 1⁄8"; these pieces are now referred to
as facing. Place one strap and facing right
sides together and stitch together around
outside edge, leaving the short end open. Clip
the curves and turn right side out. Press well
and topstitch around outside folded edge.
Place one piece of webbing measuring 131⁄2"

centered on the strap and aligned with the
raw edge. Pin in place along length of strap.
When reaching the curved end, bring the web-
bing through a D ring with 11⁄4" folded toward
the wrong side, tucked under the webbing.
Stitch the webbing in place along outside

edges until reaching the D ring. Stitch a 3⁄4"
box stitch at the curved end, leaving 1⁄4" of
webbing and D ring extending beyond the
end of the strap (7).
Pocket Placement 7
Arrange straps on main body according 8 9
to the diagram, with the webbing side of
the strap toward the main body.
Place the raw ends of the handle

webbing in line with the straps and
baste in place (8).
Cover raw edge of straps and handle

webbing with 101⁄2" piece of webbing.
Topstitch in place along both long sides
using two rows of topstitching (9).
Measure and mark a point 14" down

along the side, starting at the strap end
of the main body. Place end of 31" piece 10 11
of webbing in line with side seam and
marked point. Baste in place. Repeat
with opposite side and remaining 31"
piece of webbing (10).
Mark the center of one side panel

short end. Match side panel mark with
center point of main panel, right sides
together. Stitch together, leaving 1⁄4" on
each end not sewn (11). Repeat with
remaining side panel on opposite side
of main body.
Assemble quilted lining pieces

following the previous step instructions.
Place the main and lining with wrong

sides together and baste together
along outside edge.
tip Basting these

pieces together will make
constructing the rest of the
bag easier so you don’t have
to worry about keeping four
raw edges together.
To stitch the main and side together

along the side seams, place the bag in the
machine with the needle down at the end
of the line of stitching, attaching the two
pieces. Clip from the corner toward the
needle on only the side piece. With the
needle down, pivot the fabric to line up
the side seams (12). Stitch pieces together
until reaching the upper edge. Trim seam
allowance to 1⁄8" and bind with fold-over
elastic, stopping 3⁄8" from the top.
12
13
Leave bag wrong side out and baste Feed webbing through one side of
14 layers together along upper edge. parachute clip, centering the clip on
the webbing. Bring raw ends together
Place the large zipper with right around the bar on the clip. Stitch
side toward the right side of the bag. across webbing 1⁄2" from the clip (15).
Match the center of the zipper with Repeat with remaining side of
the center mark along the top of the parachute clip.
bag. Stitch the zipper in place 3⁄8"
from the outside edge. Trim the Place the webbing along both sides
15 fabric but not the zipper tape to 1⁄8". of the small boxed corner 1" from the
Open zipper slightly and attach point. The corner will be sandwiched
remaining side of zipper. between the two pieces of webbing.
Stitch in place with a box stitch,
Turn bag right side out and meeting the previous stitch line (16).
topstitch zipper in place. Repeat with opposite boxed corner
and webbing.
Create small box corners by
folding the upper edge to match Slip the 31" ends of webbing
the zipper and side seam (13). through the slider adjusters under and
Pin in place and trim 1⁄4" off the over the middle bar. Pass through the
tip. Repeat with opposite end. D rings on the backpack straps. Meet
16 back at the center bar of the adjuster.
Fold the 6" piece of webbing to Slip the webbing around the center
match the long sides in the middle. bar, under the webbing already there.
Pin in place. Stitch along the center Fold around the bar and secure with
of the webbing a few times to secure two lines of stitching. Repeat with
the two folds (14). Using a lighter, remaining webbing.
carefully melt the raw ends of the
SOURCES: Pellon carries SF101
webbing to seal. Repeat with second Shape Flex: pellonprojects.com.
6" piece of webbing. Fabric Wholesale Direct carries Ottertex
Waterproof Canvas: fabricwholesaledirect.com.
DESIGN: Download the Huckleberry Backpack Pattern
as part of the Sew News Spring Reader Exclusives.
Rainbow
P illow QUILTED
BY BIANCA SPRINGER
Stitching a personalized, arched quilted pillow allows you to

infuse a touch of springtime indoors, adding a vibrant burst
of nature’s beauty to your living space. The unique design
and colorful fabric choices of this project evoke the fresh-
ness and energy of the season, brightening up any room.
SUPPLIES PREPARE Using the main front as a reference,

• 3⁄4 yard woven fabric (such as Down the Forsythia Appliqué Pillow cut two pieces of lining and quilt
canvas, linen, cotton, or denim) pattern. Print and cut out each shape. backing similar in size.
• 3⁄4 yard muslin for lining
Place the fusible adhesive on a flat APPLIQUÉ
• 3⁄4 yard quilt backing surface with paper side up. Trace On a flat surface, position the pillow
• Scrap fabrics in five colors each shape and cut out. front with right side up. Arrange each
colored shape according to the
• 1 small can of temporary spray
Fuse shapes to the wrong side of the design. Remove paper backing and
fabric adhesive
corresponding scrap fabric per fuse to main fabric (1).
• 1⁄2 yard double-sided fusible manufacturer’s instructions.
stabilizer for appliqué Cut each shape from the fabric. Place the lining fabric right side
• Fabric marker or chalk down, followed by the quilt backing
From the main fabric, measure and and main front right side up. This
• Quilting ruler
mark a 19" square for the front, 19" × forms a quilt sandwich with the right
• Walking foot 91⁄2" rectangle for back upper, and 19" sides of the main and lining on the
• 18" square pillow form × 131⁄2" rectangle for back lower. Cut outside. Secure each layer with spray
each shape out, leaving at least a 1" adhesive. Repeat with back lining,
border around each marked piece. quilt backing, and main.
tip Make sure to cover
your surface or spray
outside to keep the
overspray from covering
your cutting table. A piece
of cardboard works great.
QUILT
Using a quilting ruler and fabric
marker or chalk, mark 1" diagonal
lines, working from corner to
corner. Repeat with back pieces.
Install a walking foot on the

machine. Using the marked lines as
a guide, stitch from corner to corner,
working out toward the sides. 1⁄2" and press well. Stitch in place
along the inside folded edge.
With all lines stitched, cut pieces
down to original marked lines for Pin the front and two back pieces
each piece (2). with right sides together along the
outer edge. The two back pieces
Change sewing machine back will overlap.
to regular foot.
Stitch the pieces together along
CONSTRUCT the outside edge. Clip corners
Seam allowance is 1⁄2" unless and turn right sides out.
otherwise noted.
DESIGN
Download the Forsythia Appliqué Pillow pattern as
Fold one long side of each back part of the Sew News Spring Reader Exclusives.
piece 1⁄4" toward the wrong side
and press; fold an additional
1 2
Introducing the
C A P S U L E ST U D I O
HOLIDAY
Sponsored by
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VWD\FDWLRQWKHVHEUHH]\SURMHFWVPDNHIRUWKHSHUIHFWKROLGD\
/HDUQPRUHDWsewdaily.com/capsule-collection
Sadie’s
SEWING SPACE
BY SADIE METTER
I set up this space in 2018 when we moved from a tiny bungalow in the city out
to the suburbs of Denver. Here I have more than enough room to spread out
and collect fabric, patterns, craft supplies, and even machines. Take a look!
MY MACHINES
I have a confession: I have a few more machines than the ones shown on my sewing table. I love to purchase,
repair, and collect vintage sewing machines. I even have my grandmother’s and my mother’s sewing machines
stored away in our utility room.
However, these are my everyday machines. I have an old Janome/Juno serger that I purchased new in 2015, my
trusty Bernina sewing machine, and a Husqvarna Viking Designer SE embroidery/sewing machine that I scored at
an estate sale last year. I love and use them all on the daily!
ENTERTAINMENT
I share my sewing studio with our family TV room,
which comes in handy when I want to binge-watch
a program while I am crafting. Our three little dogs
like to hang out here, too. They’ve spent many
a lazy hour lounging in their beds on the couch
watching me sew and craft.
Sadie Metter,
Content Creator
at Sew Daily
Nacho,
the sewing
companion
FABRIC
I like to keep my fabric
stash on display so I
can gaze adoringly at it
whenever I need a color
fix. I attempt to fold each
piece to about the same
size and stack by color
for a rainbow-like display.
PATTERN STORAGE
I collect vintage patterns,
current patterns, and also
PDF printed patterns.
Whenever I have copy
shop patterns printed on
large format pages, I print
two. One to use and the
other for my archives. I
store those on a metal
rack in my utility room.
SHOW OFF YOUR SUPPLIES
Speaking of color, you can add a pop with
many of your sewing tools. I display my thread
in a cool old jar, and my pegboard is stocked
with colorful cups that hold my favorite Frixion
pens plus some other markers and paintbrushes.
The use of vibrant colors in my space creates
energy and creativity in my sewing space,
which inspires me to sew even more!
STORAGE
I consider myself to be a pretty
organized person and a multi-crafter.
A place for everything and everything
in its place. My wall of storage bins is
a work in progress.
I dream about someday having built-
in furniture to hide all my patterns and
other craft supplies, but until that day,
these bins are getting the job done.
SEWSTAINABLE:
Hem It
Real Good
BY SADIE METTER
Transform a pair of jeans into a trendy fashion statement with
just a simple hemline adjustment, giving them a fresh look.
The revamped hemline breathes new life into your jeans,
making them feel like a brand-new wardrobe staple.
FRAYED 1 2
ANGLED
HEM
PREPARE
Cut off the existing hem.
Along the side seam,

measure and mark up from
the bottom of the jeans 2".
Using a ruler and chalk,

mark an angled line from the
bottom edge of the inseam
to the marked line along the
side seam (1).
CONSTRUCT
Stitch two rows of straight
stitches on both sides of the
chalk line to prevent the
jeans from continuing to fray.
With scissors, cut 1⁄4" wide

strips from the bottom up to
but not through the first
stitch line.
Repeat with second leg (2).
Wash and dry the jeans to

start fraying.
Using a hairbrush or comb,

brush out the bottom of the
jeans to create the fringe.
CROPPED FLARES
PREPARE
Try on jeans and mark a line parallel to the hem
somewhere between the ankle and bottom of the calf.
Typically this is an inseam length of 26", but it can vary
depending on height.
Cut jeans along new hem line.
Measure and mark a line 5" along the side seam.

Open the side seam up to the marked line (3) and turn
jeans wrong side out.
Using a piece of scrap denim, cut a 2" × 6" rectangle.

Using chalk and a straight edge, mark a line from the
center of one short end out to the corner of the
opposite short end. Repeat with the other side.
This results in a triangle (4).
CONSTRUCT
The triangle will be sewn into the side seam of the jeans
like a gusset. With right sides together, pin the triangle to
the side seams with the point toward the opening (5).
Stitch the triangle in place. When reaching the point,

leave the needle down, lift the presser foot, and pivot
the fabric. Continue stitching down the opposite side
of the triangle.
Run a line of straight stitches 5⁄8" up from the

bottom hem to prevent further fraying during
washing and wearing.
Repeat with the opposite leg.
3 4 5
CROPPED
SCALLOPED EDGE
PREPARE
Try on jeans and mark a line parallel to
the hem somewhere between the ankle
and bottom of the calf. Typically this is
an inseam length of 26", but it can vary
depending on height.
Measure the circumference of

the new leg opening; add 1" to the
measurement. Cut a piece of scrap
fabric that is the measurement
calculated by 3" tall. This is now
the facing.
tip This fabric can be in a

coordinating color, or you can
use the opportunity to get wild
with a fun color or print. It’s
completely up to you.
Using the scalloped piece as a template,

trace the shape onto the wrong side of
6
the facing, starting 1⁄2" from each short
end (6). Stitch the short ends together
with 1⁄2" seam allowance. Finish the raw
upper edge of the facing with pinking
shears, zigzag stitch, or serger.
CONSTRUCT
With right sides together, place the
non-scalloped edge along the raw edge
of the leg opening. Stitch the facing to
the jeans hem along the marked
scalloped edge. When reaching each
inside point, leave the needle down, lift
the presser foot, and pivot the fabric to
continue stitching. 7
Trim the seam allowance and clip into

each point; pinking shears work great for
this step (7).
Fold the facing toward the inside of the

jeans, pressing each scallop well. Stitch
the facing in place along the inside edge
of the facing.
DESIGN
Download the scallop template as
part of the Sew News Spring Reader Exclusives.
'7Os
ARE BACK
LONI JAKUBOWSKI
Love it or not, bellbottoms are back, baby!

They’ve been rebranded as “flares,” but
the vibe is still groovy. The look typically
features an undoubtedly high waist, trim
fit through the hips and thighs, and flare
starting below the knee—and the pants
often include patch pockets.
Our beloved indie sewing designers didn’t
skip a beat, bringing us several new flare
patterns last year. Here we present three
popular designs, as well as an option for
folks who prefer Big 4 patterns.
ISLE JEANS
Chalk and Notch
$18 PDF
0–30 (up to 59" hip)
The Isle Jeans are my personal favorite.

They feature six darts for shaping at the waist;
two on each side in the back and another pair
up front. Having no back yoke, this design
begs to be sewn in not only denim, but also
corduroy, twill, and other stretch woven
fabrics. Recommended stretch is 10–15%.
The rise is ultra-high, yet the pants are
incredibly comfortable because there’s no
waistband! Instead, the zipper is inserted
lower and the waist is finished with a
facing. The jeans’ style is polished off with
angled-corner patch pockets in the front
and back. A deep hem helps maintain
the wide leg opening.
JUDE FLARE JEANS
Closet Core Patterns
$16 PDF
0–20 and 14–32
(up to 63" hip)
If you’re interested in a
flares pattern with the
timeless jeans look of a
traditional zippered fly,
waistband, and back yoke,
look to the Jude Flare Jeans.
The deep hem on these
jeans is achieved with a hem
facing. Suitable denim
contains 2% lycra; stretch
percentage not indicated.
A view: mid-rise classic

5-pocket bootleg jeans
B view: ultra high rise

with front patch pockets
and full flare leg
CHELSEA JEANS
Seamwork
$16 PDF
00–30 (up to 64" hip)
Seamwork’s Chelsea Jeans are

similarly fitted via the paired back
waist darts. They do have a true
waistband though, with unique
tab-style belt loops designed to be
attached with rivets. The front patch
pockets are rectangular, whereas
the back pockets are angled. The
suggested fabrics are medium- to
heavyweight stretch wovens with
10–25% stretch.
Seamwork members can

download a pair of bonus
slash patch pockets.
SIMPLICITY 8655
Mimi G
$14.67 PDF
and printed
6–14 and 16–24
(up to 48" hip)
Mimi G’s design offers

the sleekest overall
silhouette. S8655
features an invisible side
zip, waist facing, and
front and back waist
darts that become
pintucks. There are no
pockets on the front; a
simple rectangular back
patch pocket is included.
If you are keen

to jump in on the flares
trend but prefer mid-rise
bottoms, Megan Nielsen’s
Ash Jeans offer multiple
leg cuts, including
a flare view.
Weave
TwoINTO ONE
BY DENISE ALONSO
Transforming two oversized

button-up shirts into one
distinctive garment adorned
with a captivating basketweave
pattern is a creative way to
breathe new life into old
clothing, merging style with
sustainability. This innovative
upcycling project not only
showcases individuality but
also reduces fashion waste
by repurposing existing
pieces into a one-of-a-kind
fashion statement.
SUPPLIES 1 2
• 2 oversized men’s long-sleeve
button-up shirts (one based
on size you will wear)
• 1 yard 1" knit elastic
• Seam ripper
PREPARE
Place the shirt to be used as the base
on a flat surface and measure from the
side seam to the button placket for the
length of the horizontal strips.
Using a seam ripper, carefully remove

the front pocket from base shirt.
Cut apart the second shirt along

seams to be used for woven accents.
CONSTRUCT
Use 1⁄4" seam allowance unless
otherwise noted.
Button the base shirt along the center

front. Seam-rip along both side seams
from the hem up to the underarm point.
Separate the front and back of the

shirt and place the front on a flat
surface. Measure and mark a line 1"
below the armhole. Measure and mark
a second line 5–7" up from the
bottom hem of the shirt front. Cut
along both lines (1).
Unbutton the middle section. Cut the

button placket off the middle front,
leaving a 3⁄8" seam allowance along the
shirt side of each placket (2). Measure
the placket to determine the vertical
strip length.
Working with the second shirt, cut 18

strips 41⁄2" wide in available fabric from
front, back, and sleeve pieces.
Using the horizontal measurement

taken above from the side seam to the
button placket of the base shirt, add 1⁄2"
seam allowance. Trim 10 of the 41⁄2"
wide strips down to that measurement.
Repeat the process for the vertical
button placket measurement by cutting
8 strips to the finished measurement.
Fold strips with right sides together

and stitch the long sides together. Turn
tube right side out and center seam
along the back; press well. Repeat with
all remaining strips.
Working with the wearer’s lower left

front piece, place 4 vertical strips right
side down along the upper raw edge.
The first strip will be placed 1⁄2" in from
the side seam with the last strip 1⁄2"
from the button placket. Evenly space
the two remaining strips. Stitch the
strips in place and finish the raw edge
(3). Fold strip and seam allowance
away from lower front piece and
topstitch in place 1⁄8" from the seam.
Repeat with lower left front piece and
4 remaining vertical strips.
Working with the wearer’s right front

placket on a flat surface, place the 5
horizontal strips right side down along
the raw edge. The first and last strips
will be placed 1⁄2" in from the upper and
lower raw edges. Evenly space the
remaining 3 strips. Stitch the strips in
place and finish the raw edge (4). Fold
strip and seam allowance away from
placket and topstitch in place 1⁄8" from
the seam. Repeat with left front placket
and 5 remaining horizontal strips.
3 4
Place the upper and lower button placket with
right sides together and stitch in place.
Weave the vertical strips through the

horizontal strips and pin intersections in place.
Repeat with the remaining front piece.
With the base shirt front right side up on a flat

surface, match the placket and vertical strips with
the lower raw edge of the shirt front. Stitch
together at placket and each strip (5). Finish
seam allowance and press toward the base shirt
front. Topstitch in place 1⁄8" from the seam.
Repeat with remaining front.
Match front and back along the side seam and

stitch in place. If the back side seam is slightly
longer, trim to match the length of the front
side seam.
To secure the woven panels, you can add a

small stitch at each of the points where the
horizontal and vertical strips meet.
Measure and mark a line 8–10" that is parallel

to the sleeve cuff. Mark a second line 2" above
the first. Cut along first line.
Take the pocket piece removed from the

original shirt and position it centered on the
sleeve in line with the second line marked. Pin
the pocket in place and stitch along the original
stitched lines (6).
5 6
Measure the raw end of the sleeve 7
and multiply by 70% or 0.7, then add
1⁄2". The sample raw edge measures
15"; 70% of 15" is 101⁄2", plus 1⁄2" gives
you a piece of elastic that is 11" long.
Cut two pieces of elastic based on
this measurement.
Overlap the elastic ends by 1⁄2"

and stitch in place.
To calculate the sleeve cuff, take

the same measurement of the raw
end of the sleeve and divide in two
then add 1⁄2" seam allowance. The
sample measurement would be: 15"
divided by 2 is 71⁄2", plus 1⁄2" for a
length of 8". Cut 4 rectangles that
are 23⁄4" wide by a length based on
your measurement.
With right sides together, stitch the

cuff together along both short ends.
Fold the cuff over on itself with wrong
sides together, matching raw edges.
Divide both the elastic and sleeve

cuff into quarters and mark with pins.
Slip the elastic into the folded cuff
and match quarter points (7). Baste
raw edges together.
Sew 3 rows of stitching to attach

the elastic to the cuff. Start the first
row 1⁄4" from the folded edge; stitch a
second line at 1⁄2" and the final line at
3⁄4". The elastic will be stretched while
sewing to match the length of the
sleeve cuff. Repeat for remaining
sleeve cuff.
With the shirt right sides out, slip

the cuff over the raw edge of the shirt
sleeve and match the seams with the
underarm seam and top center of
sleeve. Stitch the cuff in place and
finish seams together. Press the seam
allowance toward the sleeve and
topstitch in place. Repeat with
remaining sleeve.
Sporty SHEER
DUSTER
BY DENISE ALONSO
Combining airy, floaty

fabrics with sporty
elements creates a trendy
sheer duster for spring that
effortlessly blends elegance
with a touch of athletic
flair. This fusion of textures
and styles adds a playful
and versatile edge to your
seasonal wardrobe.
SUPPLIES
• 1 1⁄2 yards chiffon
• 1 1⁄4 yards lightweight accent fabric
• Scrap lightweight interfacing
• Two grommet sets
• 1 yard drawstring cord
PREPARE
Download the Iris Duster pattern. Print and cut out.
From the chiffon cut one front and back panel.
From the accent fabric cut two sleeves, one accent

strip, two pockets, and two hoods.
Working with the accent strip, fold both long edges

toward the wrong side 1⁄4" and press well.
Working with the hood pieces, press interfacing to

the wrong side of hood at grommet marking. Install
grommet according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Repeat with second hood piece.
CONSTRUCT
Use 1⁄4" seam allowance unless otherwise noted.
Finish all raw edges of front and back pieces and

hood with either a zigzag stitch or serger.
Mark the center front of the main piece and the

center of the accent piece. With the wrong side of
the accent piece toward the right side of the front,
align center marks along length of pieces. Pin in
place. Topstitch accent piece 1⁄8" from outside
folded edges (1).
With right sides together, stitch pocket pieces

together along outside edge, leaving a 2" opening
2 along one long side. Clip corners, turn right sides
out, and press seams well. Topstitch the top and
bottom short edge.
Fold the pocket along the top marked line and

press. Fold the lower edge of the pocket along the
second marked line. Arrange with the short fold
over the lower folded edge (2).
Place the pocket on the duster
front at the placement marks; pin
in place. Stitch the pocket in place
1⁄8" from the outside edge of
pocket, including the upper
pocket edge.
With right sides together, stitch

the hood pieces together along
top and center back seam. Finish
seam allowance.
Fold hood at the back corner

point, aligning the top and center
back seams.
Measure and mark a line 33⁄4" up

from the point. Pin along the line
and stitch through both layers of
the hood (3). Trim seam allow-
ance and finish raw edges.
Fold the hood front edge 11⁄4"

toward the wrong side and press.
Stitch in place 1⁄8" from the inside
folded edge. Feed drawstring
through grommets and tie off
ends with knot.
With front and back piece right

3 sides together, stitch along the
shoulder seams. With the notches
marked, stitch between the
armhole notch and the slit notch
with a 3⁄8" seam allowance.
Change stitch length to baste, and
stitch from slit notch to the
4 bottom hem. Press seam allow-
ance open. Starting at the lower
slit edge, stitch the seam allow-
ance 1⁄4" from the folded edge up
to the slit notch. Continue
stitching for two stitches and stop;
leaving the needle down, lift the
presser foot and pivot the fabric.
Stitch across the top of the notch,
stopping 1⁄4" from the seam; leave
the needle down and lift the
presser foot. Pivot the fabric and
continue stitching down the
opposite side of the slit. With a
seam ripper, open the basted
stitches from the bottom hem up
to the notch (4).
Fold the sleeve with right sides together, match-
ing the short ends. Stitch together and press seam
allowance open. Fold the sleeve over on itself with
wrong sides together, matching the seams. Mark
the halfway point opposite the seam with a pin.
With the duster wrong side out, slip the sleeve

into the armhole, matching the pin to the shoulder
seam and the sewn seam to the underarm notch.
Stitch the sleeve starting at the underarm notch.
Press the seam allowance toward the duster and
topstitch 1⁄8" from the seam.
With the duster wrong side out and hood right

side out, slip the hood into the duster. Line up the
hood seam with the center back and pin in place.
The front hood edges will overlap by 1⁄8". Stitch the
hood to the duster and press seam allowance
toward the garment. Topstitch in place.
Fold the bottom hem of the duster 3⁄8" toward

the wrong side and press well. Topstitch in place
1⁄4" from the folded edge.
ATHLECOUTURE
Pants
BY MONICA TETTEH
Transform your everyday

joggers into a fashion
statement by incorporating
a playful paper bag waist
detail, elevating both style
and comfort. The cinched,
gathered waistline not only
adds a trendy twist but also
ensures a flattering fit for a
truly chic athleisure look.
SUPPLIES
• Elastic waist pant pattern
• Bottomweight fabric
(according to pattern)
• 2 yards elastic cord
• Two cord locks
PREPARE
Place the waistband piece on paper
and extend the top edge by 3" (1).
Repeat with back waistband.
Wrap cord around waist and add 6"

to measurement. Cut two pieces of
cord according to this measurement.
Measure and mark a line along both

waistbands 2" up and parallel from
the lower edge. Mark a second line
1⁄4" up from the first (2).
CONSTRUCT
On the front waistband between
the two parallel lines, mark a
buttonhole 2" in from the side seam
on both sides (3). Stitch buttonhole
and open carefully.
With right sides together, stitch

the front and back waistband together
along side seams. Fold waistband over
on itself with wrong sides together.
Align raw edges and baste together.
Stitch the two layers together

along marked parallel lines around
the entire waistband. This creates a
channel for the cord.
Starting at one buttonhole,

feed piece of cord along channel
around waistband and bring out
the original buttonhole.
Install cord lock according to

manufacturer’s instructions. Repeat
with remaining buttonhole and cord.
Assemble pants according to

pattern instructions.
Bodysuit
3 WAYS
BY BETH BYRGE
The ’90s are back in a big way,

along with many old-is-new
fashion trends. A bodysuit can
fill a big hole in your wardrobe,
but what if you don’t want the
turtleneck? What if you want
it sleeveless? Here is how you
can easily hack the pattern to
create three additional looks!
Square Neck
with Long Sleeves
SUPPLIES
• Black Forest Bodysuit
pattern (see “Design”)
• Knit fabric & notions
(according to pattern instructions)
• Tracing paper
• Ruler
• Pencil
PREPARE
Trace all pieces except sleeve
and turtleneck, and mark seam
allowance along joining seams
such as shoulders and curved
edges of accent and main (1).
Starting with the front main and

accent, overlap pieces along seam line
by lining up the marked seam allow-
ance. Tape pieces together. Repeat
with back main and accent piece.
tip Consider using painter’s

tape for this step; it is much
easier to remove from paper
later in the steps without
ripping the paper.
Measure and mark a Transfer the new front
point along the center and back neckline to the
front 4" from neckline. lining pattern pieces.
This number can be
adjusted based on Remove tape from front
personal preference. Mark and back pattern pieces.
a line 3" in length perpen-
dicular to this point. Cut out fabric accord-
ing to pattern instruc-
Measure and mark a tions. Assemble bodysuit
point along the shoulder according to the pattern
seam 3" from the outside instructions until main
shoulder point. Using a and lining are stitched
ruler, connect points to together.
create a new square
neckline (2). With main and lining
right sides together, align
To draft the back neckline and shoulder
neckline, start by measur- seams. Stitch together
ing and marking a point around neckline.
along the shoulder seam
3" from the outside Flip the lining inside the
shoulder point. Using a bodysuit and align the
French curve or just armholes and leg
eyeballing it, draw in a openings. Baste lining
new back neckline and main together.
starting at the shoulder
point and ending at the Assemble bodysuit
current center back according to pattern
neckline (3). instructions.
Scoop Neck with Short Sleeves
PREPARE lining up the marked seam
Trace all pieces except allowance. Tape pieces
tip Make sure sleeve and turtleneck and together. Repeat with back
the curved line mark seam allowance main and accent piece.
along joining seams such
ends with a
as shoulders and curved Measure and mark a point
90-degree angle
edges of accent and main. along the center front 4"
so the back from neckline. This number
neckline is a Starting with the front can be adjusted based on
smooth curve. main and accent, overlap personal preference.
pieces along seam line by
1 2 3
Measure and mark a Cut out sleeve pattern Sleeveless with Turtleneck
point along the shoulder piece (5). Pattern pieces are not the lining, stitch the side
seam 3" from the changed for this version; seams together. With the
outside shoulder point. Transfer the new front the order of operation is lining stitched, repeat with
and back neckline to the changed. main side seams.
Using a French curve or lining pattern pieces.
just eyeballing it, draw in Assemble the bodysuit Turn the bodysuit right
a new front neckline Remove tape from and lining until reaching side out with the lining
starting at the shoulder front and back pattern the point before stitching inside. Baste the neckline
point and ending at the pieces. the side seams together. and leg openings together.
marked point along the
center front. Cut out fabric accord- Place the main and lining Assemble bodysuit
ing to pattern instruc- with right sides together, according to pattern
To draft the back tions. Assemble bodysuit aligning the armholes. instructions.
neckline, start by according to the pattern Stitch main and lining
DESIGN
measuring and marking instructions until main together along the
Download the Black Forest Bodysuit
a point along the and lining are stitched armhole (6). pattern as part of the Sew News
shoulder seam 3" from together. Spring Reader Exclusives.
the outside shoulder Separate the main from

point. Using a French With main and lining the lining; working first with
curve or just eyeballing right sides together,
it, draw in a new back align neckline and
neckline starting at the shoulder seams. Stitch
shoulder point and together around
ending at the current neckline.
center back neckline
(see 3). Flip the lining inside
the bodysuit and align
Shorten sleeve to the armholes and leg
desired length, openings. Baste lining
measuring from the and main together.
underarm point; mark
with line perpendicular Assemble bodysuit
to folded edge. Add 1" according to pattern
to finished length for instructions.
seam allowance.
Fold sleeve hem up

along finished length line
and mirror the angle of
the underarm seam (4).
4 5 6
Embrace the allure of
GET THE LOOK! springtime blossoms
and radiant sunshine!
BY SADIE METTER
Backstage, moments
FRESH NEW
before the unveiling
of Giambattista
Valli’s breathtaking
SILHOUETTES Spring/Summer 2024

collection, these
models exuded
undeniable readiness.
How? Through the
mesmerizing palette
of pastel hues and
interesting silhouettes.
You can seamlessly
stitch together a similar
look with effortless
mix-and-match pieces.
Revitalize your spring
closet and effortlessly
transition into summer,
embodying the essence
of effortless chic.
STYLE inspiration
Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images
TANK CHOICES SKIRT
Crop the length and add some CHOICES
faux center front buttons, and voilà! Freshly
Squeezed
Swing Skirt
by Sew
News
Oso
Tank
by Sew
News
PATTERNS FABRIC AND

Look for cropped tops and tank patterns with wide straps. Get the look COLOR PALETTE
by embellishing with buttons. For the skirt, look for a bit of fit and flare: To achieve this fresh look, be on the
a mermaid type silhouette and midi length. For the mini version you hunt for fabrics in pale shades of pink,
could opt for a skort pattern or have a button front on a classic skirt. yellow, and green. Woven eyelet lace
Then mix and match the elements to create new looks! fabrics with some structure would
work well for the cropped tank and
miniskirt. Rayons, silks, and other
drapey fabrics would work well for
the midi-length skirt option.
FINAL TOUCHES
These styles look great with strappy
sandals with some extra flair. Pop on
a cool pair of sunglasses and head
out to enjoy the fresh spring air.
BurdaStyle
The
Viscose
Aster Top
Rayon
by True
Skirt 104
Bias
EXPERTS Find out about the talented experts featured in this
issue and visit their websites to learn even more.
BIANCA SPRINGER GINGER BAILEY MONICA TETTEH BETH BYRGE

(“Rainbow Quilted Pillow” (“Modern Terrazzo Wall (“AthleCouture Pants” — page 72) (“Tips For Working with Sheer
— page 50) is a native of The Hanging” — page 41) is a is the fashion sewing blogger Fabrics” — page 22 and “Bodysuit
Bahamas who learned to sew seamstress, teacher, traveler, behind the magic of That’s Sew 3 Ways” — page 75) is an apparel
at her mother’s side. She now bread baker, beekeeper, maker, Monica. Her sewing journey sewist and freelance writer living
resides in Pearland, Texas and snail-mailer who has never was ignited several years ago in the Midwest. She works with
with her husband, daughter, met a craft she didn’t like. Her in an effort to honor her late sewing brands on the many
and son. They all serve as passion is sharing the joy of mother’s legacy. Along this tasks that small businesses
endless inspiration for fabric creating with others. She calls journey other passions were struggle with, finding creative
experimentation and hand- the plains of Colorado home discovered that increased her joy in the details. When she’s
embroidery designs. She teaches on her family farm where she love for all things DIY, crafting, not sewing yet another coat
group and private sewing dreams up unique ways to live sewing, and creating memorable or swimsuit, she is reading or
to anyone willing to learn. life to its fullest. art pieces, through which she knitting. You can find her online
thanksimadethem.blogspot.com inspires others and is inspired at 110creations.com or on
herself. Bringing people together Instagram @110creations.
through the love of shared
crafts presents one of the
things she cherishes the most:
community. She is the founder
of many brands—Sewrority Wear,
SewYourView, Black Makers
Matter, and Living the Ankara
Life, and community is at the
forefront of all them.
HELEN FRANK
DENISE ALONSO (“Mend It” — page 38 ) of Helen
(“Hit the Trails Backpack” – Mends started at farmers HELEN WILKINSON
page 44, “Weave Two Into One” markets in Toronto in 2018, (“That’s a Wrap” — page 36)
— page 63, and “Sporty Sheer mending textiles and making learned to sew at a very
Duster” – page 68) is a pattern replacements for disposable young age, and it has been
designer, sewist, maker, and items from upcycled materials. a part of her life ever since.
serial creative. She loves living in Since that time, she has kept She has a background in
the PNW, sewing patterns with more than 3,800 damaged design, specifically exhibit
size inclusivity, the ‘80s, and her items out of landfills. Using design, graphic design, and
dog Marshmallow. She believes discarded materials, Helen also web design. Helen started
you can always find room for makes products such as makeup LONI JAKUBOWSKI designing sewing patterns
one more purse (especially a wipes, produce and tote (“70s Are Back” — page 60) has when she stumbled upon the
handmade one) and one more bags, coffee filters, menstrual been finding fun in creating online sewing community
hobby. @marinadelraydesigns pads, panty liners, cutlery kits, clothing and bags for over and completely fell in love.
breastfeeding pads, hankies, and a decade. When she’s not She is currently focused on
seasonal items. Helen is now sewing, she enjoys gardening, creating sewing patterns that
living in Montreal. She does indulging in Taco Tuesday, work for all shapes and sizes,
local mending and sells her and maintaining her physician as well as making sure Helen’s
products at stores in Toronto assistant certification. She shares Closet Patterns is helping the
and online. helenmends.ca her sewing adventures on her community build strong bonds
website, havinsewmuchfun.com. and continue to grow.
helensclosetpatterns.com
Have you heard?
just launched the ultimate

digital sewing membership
Join the club now

to access and enjoy:
• Exclusive member only
75+ pattern library
• 20+ additional premium
patterns each month
• Members only newsletters
with invaluable tips and tricks
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Create Cool Wrap Pants ~ Hack Helen’s Closet Culottes!

The Trusted Sewing Source SPRING 2024

Visit your Brother Sewing Center for a test drive today.

Sew News, revisiting a tapestry

22 TIPS FOR WORKING

56 SEWSTAINABLE: 72 ATHLECOUTURE PANTS

MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Chief Executive Officer Jeffrey Litvack

2 PANTONE’S COLOR OF THE YEAR

Current subscribers of the magazine will

7 CARTRIDGE PENCIL REFILLS IN COLORS!

PERSONALIZED SEAM RIPPER TOOL

Hand-baste or pin each pleat along the folded edge to tem-

Goblet pleats are constructed in Pencil pleats are long, narrow,

SN: Why did you choose to attend a

its many colleges and majors, Syracuse

SN: Is there a particular sewing-related

SN: Describe your style or aesthetic

COVERS! innovative tools hitting the market.

OVER A REMARKABLE SPAN OF FORTY-THREE YEARS,

August/September 2020 Here at Sew

April/May 2010 This issue served

FIVE POINTS BLOUSE

HIGHLANDS LEATHER PURSE

CONSIDER THE SELVAGE

My sheer Wilder Gown uses the

I also cut a section of the selvage off

Keep your relaxation and sleepy-time activities organized and

Lay the binder flat and

From the felt cut two

From the leather cut

Place the second large rectangle

Stitch the opening closed,

With the leather rectangle on a

Measure and mark a notch 2"

SPOTLIGHT ON SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES:

Two Businesses That

SEE THE by producing unique items from

Suay, established in 2017 and

Take a peek in their online shop and

But wait—there’s more. Each month

garments we all have in our closets.

Learn more about Suay Sew Shop at

Rayon embroidery thread

4.0 mm twin needle

2.0 mm twin needle

34 S E W N E W S.CO M SPRING 2024

Getty Images/Alicia Llop

From the fabric cut two front and

For the waist ties, measure the

From the fabric and interfacing

the number above. For the sample

Apply interfacing to the wrong side

Working with one leg at a time, fold the

With right sides together, line up the front

Open pant legs and match front and back

Fold the short ends of each waist tie ½"

Match the center point of the waist tie

Edgestitch around the waist tie with 1⁄8"

Hem pants according to the original

Mending clothing instead of discarding it

Helen is taking your mending questions

Q A button has come off