TITLE: VEGAN LEATHER PRODUCTS BASED ON COCONUT PULP AND WATER

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

Nobody thinks of the harm done to the environment and the number of animals that are
slaughtered in the process. It’s high time that eco-friendly substitute for leather is introduced
to the market.
Leather is one of most important part of the Fashion industry as it’s used to make a variety of
articles, including footwear, automobile seats, clothing, bags, book bindings, fashion
accessories, and furniture. Leather is a global industry with multi - billion dollars. The demand
for leather goods is growing - but the critique of its severe environmental impact, which drives
a strong interest in sustainable alternatives, is also increasing. The pleather is biodegradable
and compostable. Its primary raw material is a kind of bacterial cellulose drawn from the water
of mature coconuts.
No animals were harmed in the making of this leather. Kerala’s coconuts are being used to
make a textured, water-resistant pleather, used in bags, pouches, wallets and shoes.
Behind the innovative material is a company called Malai — Hindi for Cream, and also a term
used for the soft milky flesh of a fresh coconut. Malai was launched in 2018 by Zuzana
Gombosova, a material researcher and fashion designer from Slovakia, and CS Susmith, a
product designer from Kerala. Susmith has since moved on and Gombosova heads the company
with a new business partner from Kerala named Aqeel Sait.

Keywords: Leather, sustainable leather, eco leather, Coconut Based leather

THE ENTREPRENEURSHIP ECOSYSTEM

“I liked my job as a designer before Malai, but I was also fully aware of how much we fill our
world with goods in the name of design,” Gombosova says. “I wanted to create and develop
methods and materials that didn’t have such a negative impact on our environment. The idea
with Malai is to create a vegan alternative to leather that is eco-friendly to make and dispose
of.” The pleather is biodegradable and compostable. Its primary raw material is a kind of
bacterial cellulose called Nata de Coco or coconut gel in the Philippines, where it is used widely
in the food industry. Malai has tied up with farmers and processing units in Kerala to use the
coconut water they have no use for.
This water from mature coconuts is fermented to create the cellulose. The cellulose is then
enriched with fibres from hemp, sisal and banana stems and refined into sheets of grey material.
The sheets are treated and, in some cases, dyed. The idea with Malai is to create a vegan
alternative to leather that is eco-friendly to make and dispose of, says co-founder Zuzana
Gombosova.
“I believe that in order to live sustainably one needs to do far more than just shop sustainably,”
says Gombosova, who has moved to Kochi to nurture the project. “But we do live in a very
complex world where most of us cannot fully detach from the consumer world.”
A healthy alternative, she believes, is slow living, and so Gombosova began research into
sustainable, plant-based materials as part of her MA studies in the field of biomaterials. She
drew inspiration from south Asia and the brand was born.
Malai now uses its material to make bags and shoes available on its website at prices ranging
from Rs 1,800 to Rs 9,500. It also supplies the material to brands such as Riti in India, the UK-
based Ethical Living and Lucky Nelly in Germany. And it’s being pitched by the company for
potential uses in furnishing and interior surfaces too.
“Malai looks and feels as good as leather but it doesn’t have the cruelty that leather has,” says
Arati Krishna, founder of Riti. “We have made a host of accessories from it, including wallets
and bags. And it makes me happy that it is made in India.”
The Malai team is currently just 10 people, including labour, sales staff, interns and external
consultants, but their work is being noticed already. In February, the brand won the Circular
Design sustainability in fashion challenge during Lakme Fashion Week.
“The world has not got very far with R&D on biodegradable materials for, say, airplanes,”
Gombosova says, “but we can certainly use eco-friendly materials in the fashion, furniture and
footwear industries.”
Coconut leather is the latest eco fabric to hit the fashion scene for sustainable leather
alternatives. India-based startup, Malai, have developed bacterial cellulose grown from leftover
coconut water and successfully converted the bio-composite into a substance that resembles
traditional leather.

Founded by Slovakian designer and material researcher, Zuzana Gombosva, and product
designer and mechanical engineer, Susmith Suseelan, residual water left from coconut
processing plants is paired with bacteria whereby after two weeks of culture growth, the jelly
that forms over the outer layer becomes bacterial cellulose – this raw material which Gombosva
and Suseelan have also named Malai. Cellulose, a molecule, is the main substance in walls of
plant cells that help them to remain stiff and upright (Ie, think of celery – if you snap it in two,
you’ll see the fibers of cellulose, which allows the plant to stand up). The new Malai material
is then processed and refined, blending with other natural fibers like bananas, hemp or teak
leaves to create durability and texture, made water-resistant and air-dried to give the natural
fibers their characteristic leathery properties. Free from synthetic materials or plastic coatings,
the pliability and its adaptable nature gives the option to greatly expand Malai’s possible
applications. “Our production process doesn’t harm any animals, Gombsova said in a
statement. “It consumes less resources in terms of energy and water during manufacturing, and
uses no toxic chemicals any stage of its production cycle.” Currently working with European
brands, Malai is focused on partnering with conscious labels with plans for expansion in the
Indian market and elsewhere.

As the vegan revolution takes hold in the world of fashion, the first ever Vegan Fashion Week
is taking place in February where cruelty-free has become the new luxury. On the big screen,
vegan actress Natalie Portman has donned an all-vegan wardrobe in her new film, Vox Lux.
Tennis champion, Serena Williams, has launched a vegan clothing line inspired by strong
women to express their individuality. In Asia, the world’s largest sustainable fashion design
competition, Redress Design Award recently awarded Australian designer Tess Whitfort for
her punk-inspired collection made from up-cycling and zero-waste techniques, design and eco-
friendly inks.

ASSESSMENT OF ENTREPRENEURIAL OPPORTUNITIES

A new report by Bangalore-based tech solutions company Infinitum Global estimates that the
market for vegan leather will reach US$89 billion by 2025, citing the growing consumer
awareness about animal welfare as the primary reason for growth, especially in the Asia-Pacific
region. The study also reveals that as consumers become more concerned about sustainability,
the sector will be driven to innovate more eco-friendly types of vegan leather alternatives,
which for now tend to be plastic-based products that have a shorter lifespan than traditional
animal based leather. The word ‘leather’ according to the Oxford dictionary is the material
made by tanning or otherwise dressing hides. (Hides are the skins of animals) Anything made
from synthetics or natural cork cannot be called leather. ‘Vegan leather’ is a term created by
marketing experts to convince Vegans they are getting a product as good as the real thing.
Vegan leather may sound like an oxymoron because- it is an oxymoron. So what is vegan
leather besides being an ethical, sustainable, and cruelty-free alternative to traditional leather?
Well, as you probably already suspected: It isn’t leather at all.

ASSESSMENT OF ENTREPRENEURIAL OPPORTUNITIES -

Vegan leather, also known faux leather, or a leather alternative—is a leather-like fabric that
isn’t made from the skin of animals. Instead, vegan leather is made from a variety of plastic
and plant materials.
Is Faux Leather Fabric Really A Viable Alternative?

leatherette is essentially just another type of fake leather -a synthetic material that mimics the
real thing and contains no animal by-products, which makes it an attractive alternative for
vegans at first glance. It’s composition can vary, however, with natural and synthetic cloth
fibers used to create the base material before being coated in either polyurethane or PVC.

Manufacture of leatherette: As a synthetic material, leatherette goes through a longer

production process than real leather and the term leatherette is commonly used in the
automotive and furniture industries where fake leather is often utilized as an upholstery fabric,
whereas the fashion industry will opt for the frankly better sounding “faux leather” to describe
synthetic alternatives to animal hide.
There are, however, several terms to describe this material.
1. faux leather

2. synthetic leather
3. fake leather

4. artificial leather
5. pu leather
6. vegan leather
7. pleather
8. vinyl

Difference between leather and leatherette: The main difference between leather and
leatherette is the price. Despite essentially being a by-product of the meat industry, leather still
commands an extremely high price and is often associated with premium goods. Leatherette,
on the other hand, is relatively cheap and will often be selected by those who are looking to
make savings that they can then spend elsewhere. This is especially true in the automotive
industry, where cars will often be sold with optional extras available.

Durability: Leather is a very durable product, but it does need to be cared for. Stains and spills
need immediate attention or else you’ll be left with unsightly marks. If you’re looking for an
upholstery material you can just forget about, then leather really isn’t the best option for you.
Real leather also scratches very easily. Even though the life span of Leatherette is less than
real leather it can last 5- 10 years out of it before it deteriorates, depending, of course, on how
one uses it and well maintained, leather will outlast leatherette.

Maintenance
Maintaining leather can be hard work. This naturally porous material will soak up spills and
smells and is impossible to wash. Leatherette, too, is usually not washable, but it does have
the benefit of being a lot less porous than real leather, so you’re able to wipe leatherette
furniture down to keep it clean and you’ll also have a window of opportunity to mop up a
spillage before it soaks in. A leather seat or sofa requires regular dusting, vacuuming,
conditioning, and nourishing and some even recommend keeping it covered when not in use.
Choice
Leather was once s restricted to three options: black, brown, and, occasionally, white but today
a variety of dies have been produced to dye leather to any color one wants. The range of colors
available for synthetic leathers is far wider, which gives consumers greater choice.

Ethics
This should be a no-brainer but, as with so many things in life, it’s not quite a black and white
issue. While the benefits of opting for an upholstery fabric that does not cause harm to animals
are obvious, there are other considerations to take into account, such as the environmental
impact leatherette can have.

From an eco standpoint, both polyurethane and PVC are not good, so opting for a vegan
leather may not be the best choice for the planet even though it is far kinder to our furry
friends.

Distinguishing between leatherette and leather

The truth is that it is getting harder and harder to make the distinction between the two. Newer
technology is making fake leather better than ever at mimicking the real things, but there are
still a few tell-tale signs you can look out for.

The main one is to check the material’s pores. Unsurprisingly, real leather’s pores will be far
more inconsistent than that of a synthetically manufactured leather. So, if the pores of the
material are uniformly spaced, it’s a good chance that the product is made from fake leather.
Another way to spot the difference between real and fake leather is to check the edging
wherever possible. If you can see the edges of the product, you will be able to ascertain
whether or not the leather is real or synthetic by again looking for uniformity. If the edges
seems clean and consistent, then it’s likely to be faux leather. If the edges appear to be ragged
and rough, it’s probably real leather.
Finally, use your senses. Smell and feel will give you a good idea of what the material is made
of, regardless of how old it is. Leatherette will never smell like leather and will often have a
plasticky feel to it (although manufacturers are getting better at reducing this). Giving the
material a firm press will also reveal a lot, too. A fingertip on real leather will cause a “spider’s
web” like pattern to appear, whereas fake leather will not crease in quite the same way.When
it comes to ethical and sustainable standards of the leather industry, there’s a lot to consider
as a mindful consumer. Unfortunately, vegan or not, leather can be an incredibly harmful
fabric at multiple levels of the supply chain Infinitum Global analysts predict that global
demand for vegan leather is expected to rise by an annual rate of 49.9% to reach US$89.6
billion by 2025,. The primary reason for its rapid growth will be the evolving awareness about
animal welfare and rights, which will send consumers looking for more animal-free products,
especially in the footwear, garments and furniture industries. Animal welfare and rights, which
will send consumers looking for more animal-free products, especially in the footwear,
garments and furniture industries.

Asia will be the predominant driving force of the market, says the report. While animal cruelty
regulations may already exist in Europe, these policies are likely to become more stringent
over time and will also begin to surface in the Asia-Pacific, particularly as more consumers
become inclined to purchase animal-free products made from synthetic vegan leather in the
region.
This projected growth in Asia will take place as the continent experiences a rapid rise in
population and disposable income, especially in China and India. Although North America
and Europe will continue to see stable substantial growth owing to the cruelty-free consumer
trend, the Asian market is expected to propel the majority of the growth rate as middle-income
earners begin to shun conventional animal-based products.

The report also finds that mounting concerns over the environmental impact of traditional
leather will be another factor driving the ascent of vegan leather. This will work to incentivize
greater innovation in the sector, as current versions of vegan leather tend to have a shorter
lifespan compared to conventional animal-based leather and are less durable to heat exposure
and moisture.
Concerns about the sustainability of vegan leather will therefore promote tech development to
create more sustainable materials that are less susceptible to wear and tear, as well as leather
substitutes that require less plastic and use fewer synthetic treatments such as bleach, which
contributes to fossil fuel production and water contamination.
Consumer trends highlighted in the report are already underway globally, particularly in the
realm of cruelty-free, sustainable and vegan fashion. Globally, vegan-friendly sustainable
fashion businesses are experiencing a watershed year, with independent boutique brands and
fast fashion giants offering more alternative choices to conscious shoppers.
Iconic footwear brand Dr. Marten’s, for instance, saw the sales of its vegan boots skyrocket
by an astonishing 279%. Meanwhile, Swedish fast fashion behemoth H&M will be making a
number of eco-friendly and plant-based products using vegan leather derived from wine waste,
and global sportswear giant Reebok revealed its launch for the first plant-based performance
running shoe.
Most recently, London-based sustainable label Luxtra has partnered with Dutch company
FruitLeather Rotterdam to create a new collection of vegan leather handbags made from
leftover mangoes that would otherwise be thrown away as waste.
In response to the spike in demand for ethical, cruelty-free and sustainable vegan products, a
number of certification bodies have launched new standards and guidelines to verify
businesses in the fashion industry. In February this year, the British Retail Consortium (BRC)
set out new guidelines to ensure that vegan fashion items are 100% free of animal and animal-
derived products throughout the supply chain of the brand. It follows the move by Friend of
the Earth, a certification body of the World Sustainability Organisation (WSO), to launch a
new standard for sustainable fashion which covers sourcing, production methods and waste

reduction amongst its requirements.1

Most vegan leather is made using polyvinyl chloride or polyurethane, both of which are
plastic based materials (hence the popular, albeit maybe dated, portmanteau “pleather,”
which originally stood for “plastic leather”). And while we’re well aware of our planet’s
plastic problem, “pleather” is still the more sustainable and ethical option when it comes to
handbags, belts, wallets, shoes, and anything else you’d typically find using leather.

The most commonly used materials for synthetic leathers are polyvinyl chloride
(PVC) and polyurethane (PU), which are plastic based materials. Another term for fake
leather is “pleather” which comes from the term plastic leather. These two commonly used
synthetic materials in particular have raised questions about the safety and dangers of vegan
leather to the environment. Very few vegan leathers are made from natural materials although
it is possible to find more eco friendly products made from materials like cork, kelp and even
pineapple leaves.

Leather sellers often describe vegan leather as toxic, poor quality, lacking the variety and
colors of “real leather”, and as overall a poor investment. In reality, even inorganic modern
vegan leathers are made from similar materials as all other synthetic materials and plastics,
which have become much less toxic, while horrible toxic chemicals are used in leather
processing, as well as the factory-animal farming industry. Vegan leathers come in a variety
of colors and textures, as much as animal-based leathers, and often are easier to care and
maintain. The quality in terms of look and durability of vegan leather has improved
dramatically, as the demand for its use in fashion, as opposed to utilitarian functions, has
increased. At this point the often the only way to tell it apart from real leather is to examine
the backing. Like animal-based leather, it longevity is tied to how well its conditioned and
maintained.

Consumption of animal products — yes, leather and hides included — is the single best
thing an individual could do to help the planet. As researcher Joseph Poore put it, “A vegan
diet is probably the single biggest way to reduce your impact on planet Earth, not just
greenhouse gases, but global acidification, eutrophication, land use, and water use. It is far
bigger than cutting down on your flights or buying an electric car.”

HOW IS VEGAN LEATHER MADE?

 \Vegan leather made from wine waste

Synthetic leather is produced with different chemicals and a totally different industrial process
to real leather. Bonding together a plastic coating to a fabric backing is the most common way
to make faux leather; the types of plastic used in these coatings vary and this is what defines
whether or not it is eco friendly. Although PVC is in much less use than it was in the 1960’s
and 70’s, it can still be found in the composition of some vegan leather. PVC releases dioxins,
which are potentially dangerous in confined spaces and especially dangerous if burnt. It also
uses plasticizers such as phthalates to make it flexible. Depending on the type of phthalate
used, they’re extremely toxic.

The more modern and slightly less damaging plastic is PU, which is constantly being
technically developed to reduce its flaws such as the hazardous toxins it releases during
manufacturing and the oil based polymers it’s made with which make use of fossil fuels.

WHAT DOES VEGAN LEATHER SMELL LIKE?

Vegan/Faux leather that is made with PVC or PU often has a very strange smell from the
chemicals. It’s often described as a 'fishy' smell and can often be very hard to get rid especially
while trying not to ruin the material. PVC can also outgas dangerous toxins that give off this
nasty smell.

WHAT DOES VEGAN LEATHER LOOK LIKE?

Vegan leather comes in several different forms and qualities, so some are more 'leather-like'
than others. Generally speaking, and focusing on good quality vegan leather, there isn’t that
much difference to real leather. However, as vegan leather is synthetic, it doesn’t form a patina
like real leather does when ageing and it is much less breathable as the pores that are printed
onto the surface of pleather are artificial.

VEGAN VERSUS REAL LEATHER:

The main concern for most people when deciding between vegan and real leather is the impact
it has on animals and the environment. However, whilst the term vegan leather might imply
an environmentally friendly product, this is not always the case.

IS VEGAN LEATHER GOOD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT? And IS it BETTER

THAN REAL LEATHER?

Quality and durability are also important things to consider when comparing vegan and real
leather. Vegan leather is often a lot thinner than real leather and much more light weight which
is great for fashion as it makes it potentially easier to work with, however it also makes it less
durable than real leather. A real, good quality leather can last decades when cared for, whereas
you might only get a year or so out of a pair of shoes made from good quality faux leather.
This is an important factor when deciding between fake leather and real leather as the
environmental impact of replacing a fake leather product multiple times is arguably more
damaging than the purchase of one real leather item. Synthetic leathers also wear out very
unattractively whereas real leather ages over time and forms a patina, which is considered to
add character to leather.

Faux leather, especially PVC based, isn’t breathable either where as real leather has pores
through which skin is able to breathe. So for clothing items such as jackets, vegan leather can
be uncomfortable when worn for long periods of time. In addition to environmental factors,
faux leather is typically a lot cheaper than real leather products. This is because it’s cheaper
to produce synthetic plastic leather than it is to produce real leather. The craftsmanship of
leather products is a highly skilled job and bespoke leather products such as sofas, jackets and
luggage can be thousands of dollars. Manufacturers are able to command these prices because
they are considered both high quality and highly durable.
MAINTAINING VEGAN LEATHER

As vegan leather is made with a plastic coating, it is already waterproof. This makes it easier
to clean by using a mild detergent or just by wiping it with a damp cloth, however it also
means that conditioning products can’t penetrate it to stop it from drying up and cracking,
which can happen if the fake leather is in the sun a lot and also if it’s a particularly poor
quality material.
However, you can get certain products, which will cover the surface of the plastic to prevent
high temperatures and sun rays from cracking the surface. Such products can also help to
soften the material.
HOW TO REPAIR VEGAN LEATHER
You can replace or patch up the damaged area with a faux leather repair kit that can be
bought online - they’re easy to use and suited to different types of faux leather.

IS VEGAN LEATHER GOOD QUALITY?

Vegan leather can come in different standards of quality and as with real leather, the higher
the quality, the longer it will last. Faux leather is generally a lot cheaper and of a lower
quality to real leather, even at a high standard. Vegan leather is ultimately much less durable
than real leather and tends to be thinner so it’s not uncommon for it to tear or scuff badly over
time.

HOW TO UNWRINKLE VEGAN LEATHER

It is important that you do not try to iron wrinkled vegan leather by putting the iron directly
onto the material. The method you should use to remove wrinkles depends on the quality of
the material – because synthetic 'pleathers' have plastic in them, they do not mix well with
heat and it can often ruin the product completely. High quality faux leathers can be steamed
to remove wrinkles if protected with a sheet, towel or lining as they are much more forgiving
against heat however there still should be a lot of care taken when doing this. It is important
that you don’t heat your fake leather for more than 30 seconds.

HOW TO SHRINK VEGAN LEATHER METHOD:

1. Wash the item in your washing machine on warm to clean off the article and prevent
any contamination from 'baking' into the plastic material of the pleather.

2. Put the polyurethane item into an old pillowcase and tie off the top with a shoelace or
piece of string to prevent it from falling out. Materials like this may get hot enough to stick to
the dryer’s drum, damaging the jacket and making a mess, so avoid this happening at all costs.

3. Set the dryer on high. Let the cycle go for about an hour. Allow the jacket to cool off
and then test fit it. Repeat the cycle as needed, using progressively shorter drying times until
satisfied.

CAN YOU STRETCH VEGAN LEATHER

Faux leather does stretch, but not as much as real leather. You need to be careful when trying
to stretch fake leather because it increases the risk of it cracking, so it’s best to avoid it all
together.

CAN YOU DISTRESS VEGAN LEATHER?

Trying to distress faux leather will more often than not result in damaging the item. Most
people tend to create a distressed effect on faux leather using thin layers of acrylic/fabric
paints – thick layers can result in the vegan leather cracking and peeling the top layer entirely.
Be sure to use paints/dyes suitable for the material, as solvents often eat away at pleather.
Remember to test the paint on a small inconspicuous area of the product first before applying
all over.
HOW TO DYE VEGAN LEATHER
Faux leather is not as permeable as real leather, which means the material cannot easily absorb
colored dye. Therefore, even after dyeing your faux leather product you should be aware that
the process will most likely need to be repeated throughout the products life span as the color
wears off over time.:
1. Prepare the pleather surface by wiping it down with a clean cloth to remove any dust
or dirt particles. For a thorough clean, it’s recommended to wipe the product down with pure
alcohol.

2. Once clean and dry your vegan leather product is ready to be dyed with upholstery
paint. Please see the instructions on the paint product for the recommended drying time.
Remember to test the paint on a small inconspicuous area of the product first before applying
all over.

HOW TO SOFTEN VEGAN LEATHER

Vegan leather is less permeable than real leather, and therefore traditional leather conditioning
products have little impact on softening the material. Vinyl conditioner is typically
recommended to soften faux leather, and should be applied with a soft cloth in small circular
motions. Excess conditioner should then be removed with a clean cloth before leaving the
product to dry. The process can be repeated until the level of softness desired is achieved.

Vegan “leather” is, like all products made from petroleum, far more toxic to Life than natural
materials treated, cured and prepared with natural products without any petroleum derivatives
or products in them. Whether or not modern plastics fabrication is less toxic than it used to be,
it remains more dangerous to Life than natural, REAL leather. Really, the problem lies in the
maniacal nature of consumer culture. Yes, purchase things when you need them but be
sensible and reasonable about being a consumer. Choose natural products that, when cared
for, last decades or centuries. There needs to be an end to living chemically and in a death
bath of petroleum.

And switching to vegan leather is a change that the world has thankfully embraced. According
to a recent report by consulting group Grand View Research, the world market for vegan
leather is estimated to be worth $85 billion by 2025,
Currently, the most popular alternative to PVC for faux leather is polyurethane.
Polyurethane, however, presents its own set of economic and environmental challenges. The
chemistry behind it is complicated, which causes the price point to go up, and also creates a
wider variation in quality and performance. From an environmental perspective, the main
concern with polyurethane-based synthetic leather is that solvents are used. The production
process involves painting polyurethane in liquid form onto a fabric backing. Making
polyurethane into a liquid requires a solvent, and those can be highly toxic.
“The newest versions of polyurethane are using a waterborne coating, and those are a lot
better,” says Dent. Ultimately, though, the type of polyurethane used in a piece of clothing is
only one part of the environmental equation. Its impact will also depend on the quality of the
supply, the way it’s put onto fabric, and the sorts of chemistry used in every step of the
manufacturing process. With so many steps, there is plenty of opportunity for bad things to
happen. But is it better or worse than actual leather? Dent says, “It depends on who you ask
and it depends on how you assess.” Obviously, for the vegan whose ethical concerns favor
animal life above all else, leather is out. But for those who don’t put animal ethics at the top
of the list, there are other factors at play. The biggest is that, as Gwendolyn Hustvedt, an
associate professor in Fashion Merchandising at Texas State University points out, “most
cows don’t die to become a purse.”
The bulk of hides used in leather production come from cattle that are raised for beef and milk,
so not using their hides could be deemed wasteful. This by no means alleviates concern over
animal cruelty or other environmental concerns like deforestation, it’s just that, for those who
do eat meat, this gives leather, environmentally speaking, an advantage.

It’s an advantage, however, that can be easily rendered moot by the tanning process. “The
tanning process for leather has traditionally been awful,” says Dent. “People don’t live very
long if they become a tanner in certain parts of the world.” Chemicals used in tanning include
formaldehyde, coal-tar derivatives, and some finishes that are cyanide base. One study of the
Chiampo Valley, a tanning region in northern Italy, showed that more than 30 solvents were
released into the air from the surrounding tanning factories.
Ultimately then, what can give leather an environmental edge is its sustainability. PVC and
polyurethane aren’t going to last nearly as long as leather and, as Dent points out, when
synthetic leather does begin to wear out, it doesn’t wear out as attractively. “What constitutes
‘worn out’ in a leather is different from what constitutes ‘worn out’ in a polyurethane,” he says.
In many cases, leather actually looks and feels better with age, giving it the ability be recycled
and re-used for a much longer period of time.

The holy grail of sustainability is a closed-loop system. “With leather, nature has created its
own sort of closed-loop system,” says Hustvedt. “The carcass of an animal can decay in the
ground and nurture plants that are eaten by the next generation of animal.” Faux leather, on
the other hand, won’t decay and, is at best, “down recycling,” meaning it can’t be made into
another item of faux leather. That would require a complete molecular breakdown in order to
then remanufacture it. Instead, if PVC or polyurethane faux leather is recycled at all, it is
usually repurposed as something like a vinyl awning.
For Hustvedt, the real question we should be asking, then, isn’t whether to buy real leather of
faux leather, it’s whether to buy anything at all. Accepting that we live in a consumerist age,
however, she suggests we at least think beyond simply how the product was made. We must
consider its entire lifecycle. “How long will this product last, when will I need to replace it,
how will I use it, how long will I use it, and then, when I do dispose of it, what will happen to
it?”
Certainly a lot more than just, real or fake?

Quality and durability are also important things to consider when comparing vegan and real
leather. Vegan leather is often a lot thinner than real leather and much more light weight which
is great for fashion as it makes it potentially easier to work with, however it also makes it less
durable than real leather. A real, good quality leather can last decades when cared for, whereas
you might only get a year or so out of a pair of shoes made from good quality faux leather.
This is an important factor when deciding between fake leather and real leather as the
environmental impact of replacing a fake leather product multiple times is arguably more
damaging than the purchase of one real leather item.

Synthetic leathers also wear out very unattractively whereas real leather ages over time and
forms a patina, which is considered to add character to leather. Faux leather,
especially PVC based, isn’t breathable either where as real leather has pores through which
skin is able to breathe. So for clothing items such as jackets, vegan leather can be
uncomfortable when worn for long periods of time.In addition to environmental factors, faux
leather is typically a lot cheaper than real leather products. This is because it’s cheaper to
produce synthetic plastic leather than it is to produce real leather. The craftsmanship of leather
products is a highly skilled job and bespoke leather products such as sofas, jackets and luggage
can be thousands of dollars. Manufacturers are able to command these prices because they are
considered both high quality and highly durable.

There have never been more alternatives to real leather on the market than there are today.
From fruits to vegetables to rocks, manufacturers are getting creative with materials, and there
are tons of options available, with more in production. Below is a comprehensive guide that
will explain why vegan leather is better than traditional leather. We will also discuss how
traditional leather is made, the effects on the environment of both cow and vegan leather, and
the various alternatives available. So grab a cup of fair-trade coffee, and let's get started!

THE OUTLOOK IS GOOD

You know the outlook is good when big companies like BMW, Tesla, Ferrari, Mercedes Benz,
and Lexus offer vegan leather seating in their high-end vehicles. Vegan leather is changing
the world! Is there a vegan future for leather? Absolutely! It's already here with us in the
present! Leather and faux leather are outdated, cruel, and pollutant heavy-industry. Its days
are ultimately numbered -and that can only be a good thing. Like vegan foods, which are more
and more in the main-stream, so are vegan accessories and clothing.

Your savvy vegan shopper cares just as much about what they wear as much as what they
eat. In addition to the environmentally friendly vegan companies listed above, other great
companies are growing by the day.The cruelty-free industry is expanding not only its food
choices but product choices too. It's a great time to live as a vegan, on our own terms!
Vegans just don't do leather from animals. Aside from the issue of killing an animal to make
a handbag, real leather is not an environmentally friendly product, and we shouldn't include it
in our fashion.The processes used to make genuine leather products put the health of
traditional leather-workers at risk. The lax regulations in factories leave the potential to deposit
toxic waste into the environment in the form of wastewater and airborne solvents that make it
into our water and food supply. All so that we can wear products made from animal hides?
VEGETABLE TANNED
There is a chemical-free alternative to chrome tanning, but it takes months and is considerably
more expensive to implement. You will probably not be surprised to read that vegetable
tanning is the original tanning method for leather, dating back to 6000 BC.
The cheaper, faster, chrome tanning process came about in the mid-19th century, and it quickly
eclipsed vegetable tanning in leather production. Vegetable tanning uses tannins found in
trees and other plants to give leather its resistance to rotting, flexibility, and durability. An
heirloom process, vegetable tanning requires highly skilled workers to implement.>Hides
soak in vats of concentrated tannins for months.
Vegetable-tanned leather has the advantage of being thick, durable, and biodegradable.
Because of the process involved, however, the end product is going to be a lot more expensive
than if made with chrome-tanned leather.

VEGAN LEATHER PROS: BACKED BY RESEARCH

A 2017 report, Pulse of the Fashion Industry, conducted by Global Fashion Agenda & The
Boston Consulting Group, reported findings in support of the use of leather alternatives. The
report found that synthetic leather ranked well below real leather in a list of fabrics by
environmental impact per kilogram. The report also found that faux leather had only one-third
the ecological implications of cow leather, which has the highest environmental impact. The
report gave an opinion on questions about the environmental health impacts of faux leather
vs. leather. "Different leathers can have an over tenfold difference in environmental impact
based on their type and origin, how the animal was raised, and how the tanning process took
place. Switching to alternative materials can directly improve a product's footprint. "Faux
leather was sixth on the list, below silk, cotton, bast fiber, and wool, but above other vegan
fabrics like nylon, modal, viscose, lyocell, polyester, and polypropylene, which had the lowest
impact. The study did note that organic cotton has one-quarter of the environmental
implications of traditionally farmed cotton.
So while this report is good news for vegans who want the look of leather without the guilt,
it's important to note that vegan leather isn't blame-free when it comes to environmental
impact. Vegan leather ranked third in abiotic resource depletion, behind only silk and bast
fiber.

Another 2015 Sustainable Apparel Materials Report by the Massachusetts Institute of

Technology also examined the environmental impacts of different apparel materials. The
report is no longer available online, but according to this site, the report found that the annual
emissions produced by cow leather manufacturing are equal to the yearly impact on the
environment of 30 million cars.
Micro plastics: These micro plastics become ingested by unwitting animals, including us. A
stomach full of plastic doesn't sound great, does it? PVC was more commonly used in the past,
while PU is its new, trendy sibling. If you think pleather doesn't sound so great, you're not the
only one. There is a host of new plant-based vegan leathers coming onto the scene as an
alternative to pleather.

BANANA
Yes, banana leather. Bananas do not grow on trees but the world's largest perennial herb,
known as the banana plant. Unlike fruit trees, which continue fruiting every season, the banana
plant provides only one crop of bananas.More plants can send out suckers from the
underground stem, but the actual stem that produced bananas will never fruit again.
So what to do with these past-their-prime plants? Why, make banana leather, of course!
Banana leather manages to be biodegradable, water-resistant, and durable all at once.

Coffee
A German company, nat-2, has developed a vegan leather made from recycled coffee, beans,
and coffee plants.
The coffee product makes up about 50 percent of the materials in the finished shoe, which also
uses recycled plastic, natural rubber, and cork.
The finished product does smell like coffee, but we think that's a good thing. The first run of
this sneaker sold out, according to content on the product page, but it looks like nat-2 plans to
make more coffee shoes.
APPLE
Apple leather is not the kind of fruit leather you may have grown up snacking on, though the
finished product does look a little like the fruit strips you'll find at the health food store.

The company turns apple pulp waste into 100 percent biodegradable, vegan leather.
GRAPE
Yes, there are still more varieties of vegan leather made of fruit. Also known as wine leather,
Vegea, an Italian company, produces grape leather.

Vegea sources winemaking leftovers, specifically grape skins, stalks, and seeds to make its
products.

The company does not allow the use of toxic chemicals or heavy metals in its production.
Bentley used Vegea's vegan leather in the interior of its 2019 electric concept car.
PINEAPPLE
Another alternative to traditional leather comes from discarded pineapple tops. A company
called Ananas Amam uses this byproduct to create its sustainable vegan leather, called
Piñatex. This byproduct gives the farmers an additional income stream that requires no extra
resources. Ananas Amam extracts the fibers from the leaves using an automated machine
created for this purpose. The biomass that remains once the device removes the threads
converts into fertilizer or biofuel, so no waste remains. The extracted fibers process into a sort
of mesh, which is then exported to Spain to be finished into the final vegan leather.
Ananas Amam distributes Piñatex directly to designers. Piñatex is used in interior design and
car interiors as well as for clothing, shoes, and accessories.

Hugo Boss makes sneakers out of this vegan leather. Check out the #madefrompinatex hashtag
on Instagram to see the other products made from pineapple leaves, and if you have a Piñatex
accessory, share it!
MUSHROOM
Moving away from fruits into vegetables, we arrive at vegan leather made from mushrooms.
Amadou Leather is a brand of mushroom leather. The company grows its mushrooms on
sawdust blocks.

The company claims that the leather absorbs moisture and is breathable. The end product is
fully biodegradable and, the company claims, antimicrobial.
Slightly less appealing, MuSkin vegan leather comes from the Phellinus ellipsoideus, a
giant alien-life-form-looking parasitic fungus that attaches to and feeds on subtropical
trees. You're not very likely to encounter this vegan leather, as the production capacity of
MuSkin is quite low at the moment.

And while it is biodegradable, this suede-like faux leather is also somewhat fragile, requiring
lamination to a fabric layer to increase its durability.
RED PEPPER
Called the "Berlin Curry" sneaker, nat-2 has used red pepper applied to an eco-flax layer to
create the vegan leather used to make up to 50 percent of this shoe.

The remaining materials are cork, glass (for the company's local), and recycled plastic.
Back to top.
COCONUT WATER
OK, now I'm just pulling your leg. Am I, though? It turns out that, yes, you can make vegan
leather from coconut water! Malai Design and Materials makes a vegan leather out of bacterial
cellulose from coconut water. The water they use is a byproduct that they then discard.
This vegan leather has a papery appearance, not unlike snakeskin.

STONE
Two German brands put their heads together and created a sneaker made from leather derived
from rock. And it's not something that Wilma or Betty would wear.The companies Rosslyn
and nat-2 (who you may remember from the coffee sneakers above) created a leather-like
material out of slate stone. The company sources the rhinestones which do not make it to sale
from Swarovski.
CORK
It's not just for your wine bottle anymore. Cork is one of the more popular sustainable vegan
leather options on this list. Cork is naturally water-resistant, which makes it a great candidate
for fashioning into bags and shoes. Depending on the finish, cork products sometimes really
do resemble a wine bottle stopper, and other times they look more like real leather.

RECYCLED RUBBER
Some rubber products, like inner tubes, are great candidates for vegan leather shoes and
accessories. These biker boots use vegan leather derived from rubber.

ROSES
nat-2 is at it again with sneakers made from rose petals. The petals, which retain their
fragrance, are layered onto a flax fabric before being applied to the shoe.The company says
the roses' source varies depending upon sustainable practices and availability at the time of
manufacture. nat-2 uses ash, birch, maple, tulip tree, walnut, cherry, elm, and beech from
ethically managed forests.

WOOD
nat-2 also offers a wooden sneaker made of up to 90 percent sustainable wood.The wood is
applied to organic cotton and vector engraved in a way that the material bends and becomes
soft and flexible like a fine nappa leather. The feel is very smooth and fine, while you can
smell the wood and see the tree's natural texture." nat-2 company spokesperson.

VEGAN LEATHERS OF THE FUTURE

Entrepreneurs see potential in the market and are developing more leathers made from unusual
materials. To name just a few more:
• green tea,
• prickly pears,
• kombucha tea,
• soy,
• and fruit waste are all materials currently under development for more varieties
of sustainable vegan leather.
DESIGNER VEGAN LEATHER

One of the most well-known animal-free designers is Stella McCartney.McCartney designs

synthetic leather pieces and has tried to develop more environmentally friendly options.Since
2013, the label has used alter-nappa, a material that incorporates polyester and polyurethane
on a recycled polyester backing along with a coating made of 50 percent vegetable oil.The
recycled support piece reduces the amount of petroleum used in the material's production.
However, it does not eliminate it.
On her web site, McCartney says that she uses only water-borne and solvent-free PU, which
are more environmentally friendly than traditional PU. McCartney acknowledges that the
synthetic leather she uses still harms the environment, even though it is reduced, and reveals
that she is exploring lab-grown leather.

CAR INTERIORS
Many car manufacturers are putting vegan leather on board their new vehicles.
In addition to the grape-leather Bentley concept car, Mercedes-Benz is planning a recycled
plastic leather for the interior of its EQS concept car. It is our job now to re-define modern
luxury by Mercedes. What is for certain is that attractive, contemporary luxury must be
sustainable—and sustainably fascinating," company head Ola Källenius told PETA.
Many other companies are already using synthetic leather in the vegan interiors of some of
their cars, including:
1. Buick,
2. Chevrolet,
3. Ford,
4. GMC,
5. Honda,
6. Hyundai,
7. Kia,
8. Nissan,
9. Subaru,
10. Tesla,
11. Toyota
12. and Volkswagen.
Is leatherette a good choice?
There is a dilemma here- Leatherette is kinder to animals, which makes it perfect for vegans.
While on the other, it’s not biodegradable and isn’t the best product on the market for the
planet…which isn’t perfect for vegans! Ethically it’s good, but environmentally it’s poor. So,
are there any decent alternatives?

Environmentally friendly leather alternatives

Thankfully, there are some environmentally friendly alternatives to leather, and the rise in
veganism over the last decade or so points towards an increase in vegan friendly products on
the market; and more research and science will produce better environmently vegan leathers.

Cotton canvas
Canvas is durable and can look great on a number of different products. Many manufacturers
are using canvas to mimic leather, but be aware that this can often include a coating that doesn’t
biodegrade, making it little better than leatherette.

Hemp
Hemp fabric is nothing new, but with the connection to marijuana it has received somewhat of
a bum wrap over the years. Thankfully, this looks set to change. Extremely tough and very
sustainable, hemp fabric should grow in popularity as ever greater numbers of textile
manufacturers utilize this wonderful product.

Cork leather (aka cork skin)

You may not have heard of it yet, but cork leather could become big news over the next few
years. This completely natural product is made from the bark of the cork oak tree, which makes
it both durable and eco-friendly. Start asking for cork leather when you’re out shopping to help
spread the word.

Ocean leather
Made from kelp, ocean leather is another great sustainable alternative to leather, but is probably
rarer still than cork leather.

Piñatex
It’s name is a slight giveaway as Piñatex is manufactured from pineapple leaves. A fairly recent
alternative to leather, Piñatex was developed in the ’90s and is already being used for a wide
range of products including seat coverings, shoes, and bags.

Bark cloth
Bark cloth is a far more ancient alternative to leather, but it’s one that is making somewhat of
a comeback in many circles. Once ubiquitous in parts of Asia and Africa, bark cloth is a
textured fabric that is perfect for home furnishings such as curtains and upholstery.
The Future? The significant progress made in the past decades in the field of bioengineering
shows that this might be the case. Companies are merging science, biology and innovative
design to challenge the way we think about leather.

ASSESSMENT OF ENTREPRENEURIAL OPPORTUNITIES –

Coconut water is among the best thirst quenchers in the sweltering months. But there’s more.
Did you know that coconut water can be the base material to develop alternative leather?

A little known Kerala-based start-up ‘Malai Biomaterials Design’ courted spotlight a few days
ago when it won the second edition of Circular Design Challenge (CDC) at Lakme Fashion
Week (LFW), Mumbai. The CDC was instituted a year ago to recognise those who employ
innovative methods to recycle discarded materials to create new products.

Malai Biomaterials manufactures a water resistant bio-composite material that looks like
leather, using raw materials such as coconut water and banana fibre.

Founded by Zuzana Gombosova, a material researcher from Slovakia, and C S Susmith, a

product designer from Kerala, the start-up now supplies its vegan leather called ‘Malai’
(named after the coconut flesh) to a few international labels.

The CDC had more than 400 registrations from 40 cities in India, and five entrepreneurs were
shortlisted. Zuzana and Susmith admit that they were pleasantly surprised to find themselves
among the final nominees. In an email interview, they tell us that their surprise also stemmed
from learning about the work of the other nominees in sustainable fashion. “To initiate and
run such a project, you need determination and patience. I think our project was distinctive in
 a way that it went further with finding a solution to waste generation. We try to prevent waste
generation by providing a material that doesn’t turn into waste. Malai is a circular material by
default. It emerges from agricultural waste and ends its life becoming a nutrient for soil,” says
Zuzana.

 Circular Design Challenge at LFW is in collaboration with Reliance Industries’ R | Elan and
the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) in India.

 The other finalists for the CDC apart from Malai Biomaterials were: Samaritan that uses
industrial plastic and textile scrap to make furniture and accessories using charpoy and
macramé weaving techniques; Hyderabad-based firm Cancelled Plans that uses industrial
waste to create clothing and accessories; Chambray & Co that upcycles waste into a funky line
of clothing; and Off-Grain that upcycles textile waste.

What goes into Malai? “Bacterial cellulose (that’s developed from coconut water), fibre from
banana stem, sisal fibre and hemp fibre,” state Susmith and Zuzana. They also use natural
dyes, natural gums and starches.

The firm liaises with coconut farmers and processing units, collects and re-purposes coconut
water to feed the bacteria’s cellulose production. A small coconut-processing unit can collect
around 4000 litres of water per day, which can be used to make 320 square metres of Malai.

Both Zuzana and Susmith were working in Mumbai when they first met. “She told me about
the possibility of growing bacterial cellulose on water from mature coconuts and I found that
interesting because nobody makes this kind of product in Kerala or India,” recalls Susmith.
A sheet of Malai

They began experimenting in their kitchen and then moved to the vicinity of a coconut
processing unit where they developed the material further. “Malai emerged as an attempt to
create material based on bacterial cellulose that’s ecologically friendly and usable for
commercial products. Our criteria was to keep it as sustainable as possible, both
environmentally and socially,” he adds.

Their mainstay is the material, Malai, which is now supplied to brands such as UK-based
Ethical Living, Czech Republic firm Playbag and Riti in India, among others.
Vegan leather pouches with Malai

In 2018, Malai expanded its portfolio by designing product prototypes. A crowd-funding

campaign was mooted and 10 products — bags and accessories included — are now in
production. “We will be stocking some of these products at a few retailers in India and abroad
soon. But our main focus is on material development,” they state.

They hope that the win at LFW will bring them more visibility in the fashion and lifestyle
sector and help them reach a wider audience. They will be showcasing their new collection at
LFW Winter/Festive 2020 and at Neonyt Berlin 2020, the international fair for sustainable
fashion.
Vegan leather bag with Malai

The fashion spotlight aside, Zuzana and Susmith intend to begin a new phase of research and
development, and test the first batch of Malai products with their users.

Sustainability remains at the core of their ideology. As Susmith puts it, “We have to constantly
remind ourselves that we are borrowing from nature and we are bound to return it back to
nature in a form that nature can use.” He describes the work at Malai Biomaterials (made-
from-malai.com) as a mix of art, craft, design, science and engineering.

CONCLUSION

At present, Malai partners mainly with brands based out of Europe and the United States,
however, their future plans do include expansion with respect to increasing their customer base
in India. Gombsova feels that despite the recent surge of awareness pertaining to sustainability,
India still has a long way to go. “Sustainability in India is definitely a niche industry an is also
all over the place. Sustainability with respect to India can’t really be defined with one standard
explanation. But a lot of initiatives promoting sustainability on a mass scale are cropping up
and that is something that we really need. Sustainability with respect to fashion is growing and
has been present for a long time in some architecture projects and initiatives,” she explains.

Despite co-founding an spearheading the sustainable movement that is Malai, Gombsova is in

fact still the curious researcher who came to India study natural materials this geographical
area has to offer. “I want to explore this entire eco-system that is so little known to humanity.
According to scientists, we have explored less than 0.1 percent of the microbial eco-system
around us. We have explored more outer space than we have our own planet and its resources.
The vast pool of unexplored resources and knowledge is what keeps me interested,” she signs
off.

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