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EJCHEM - Volume 65 - Issue 5 - Pages 647-656
EJCHEM - Volume 65 - Issue 5 - Pages 647-656
EJCHEM - Volume 65 - Issue 5 - Pages 647-656
Abstract
Conventional pretreatment and dyeing processes of viscose fabric are mainly conducted in two baths with substantial amounts
of water and auxiliaries. These processes comprise one bath of two–stages for enzymatic de-sizing and alkaline treatment
adopted using sodium carbonate with peroxide bleaching formulations and a second bath for the dyeing process. In this study,
a regular viscose woven fabric was initially pretreated with a commercial desizing enzyme and subsequently dyed with
different reactive dyes in the same exhaust bath process. The effect of one-bath enzymatic pretreatment and reactive dyeing
was investigated and optimized, employing enzyme and mono- and/or bifunctional reactive dyes at various concentrations.
The results showed that the one-bath pretreatment and dyeing process could be performed successfully, exhibiting remarkable
colour strength and excellent performance equal to that with the conventional pretreatment and dyeing method. Both the
pretreated fabrics via the bio-method and the conventional one exhibited approximately equal efficiency in terms of improved
dyeing and fastness properties. The bifunctional reactive dyes, RR 195 and RBl 5, exhibited higher degrees of dye exhaustion
and total fixation yield than those of the monofunctional reactive dyes, RR 180 and RR 31. Although the shorter the one-bath
enzymatic pretreatment and dyeing process, all the reactive dyeings using this Bio-method showed comparable CIE L*b*a*
and colour difference values ∆E to the conventionally dyed sample using Conv-method, particularly in the case of
bifunctional dyes.
there is a growing interest in the issues of textile and Ludigol (mild oxidizing agent that helps to
productivity and process optimization using prevent dyes from reduction) were purchased from
innovative, eco-friendly, and sustainable dyeing GB Chemical Products Co., Egypt. Other auxiliaries
methods to reduce the amount of water, energy of sequestering agent (Wat SEQ-10) and an
consumption and hazardous coloured effluent alkylphenol ethoxylate (APEO) free non-ionic
discharge [17-19]. Recently, the application of one- detergent (Wat 870) were supplied by WATCO
bath pre-treatment and dyeing of viscose fabric with Dyestuffs & Textile Auxiliaries, Egypt. An anionic
enzyme in the cold pad-batch method has been leveling agent (Moral 45), supplied by Istanbul
greatly save the chemicals and energy, and reduce the Chem., Egypt, was also used through this work.
environmental pollution with an optimized
production process [20]. An alternative method of 2.2. Conventional Pre-treatment and Dyeing
viscose fabric pre-treatment and dyeing by the Processes (Conv-method)
exhaustion technique in one bath is also of growing The conventional pre-treatment and dyeing processes
interest. But there is still a lack of research work on of viscose fabric were conducted as shown in Figure
the combined exhaust process of raw viscose like 1, and the total process time was approximately 360
cotton fabrics. Several attempts have been reported min. The fixation dyeing temperature was carried out
on the pre-treatment and dyeing cotton in a single at 80 °C for RR 141, RR 31, RO 84 and 60°C for
bath and stages of conventional and bio-treatment of RR 195, RR 180, RBl 5 and RB 222.
raw cotton using enzymes studied and also dyeing Pre-treatment (One bath-Two stages -Total Time 190
carried out in the same bath [21-23]. Also, a new min)
process of combined pretreatment and reactive 1. Deszing (2g/l Bactosol®HPA Liq., 2g/l Wat
dyeing of cotton in a single bath was investigated and 870, 1g/l Wat 50) – 60 min
the process completed almost in half of the 2. Bleaching (2g/l H2O2 50%, 1g/l Stabilizer,
conventional dyeing time [24]. As a part of our 1g/l Wat 50, 2g/l Soda Ash) – 70 min
ongoing interest to challenge the conventional dyeing 3. Hot Rinsing/Neutralization (1g/l Acetic
process of reactive dyes, the present work optimizes acid) - 60 min
the process of enzymatic pre-treatment of raw viscose Dyeing stage (One bath/One stage- Total time 170
fabric with subsequent dyeing in the same bath using min)
different reactive dyes. The results were compared 4. (1 g/l Moral 45, 20-40 g/l Gluber’s Salt)
with those obtained by the conventional process in 5. Reactive Dye (1-3 % owf),
separate baths. 6. 15-20 g/l Soda Ash
7. Cold Neutralization Acetic acid) /Hot and
2. Experimental Cold Rinsing
2.1. Materials and Chemicals
A plain-weave viscose gray fabric, 115g/m2, 360 2.3. One-bath Pre-treatment and Dyeing method
ends/10cm and 280 weft yarns/10cm, was supplied (Bio-method)
by Modern Kobbafor Weaving & Finishing Co (El- The temperature/time graph of the visibility for one-
Obour City, Egypt). Seven commercial reactive dyes, bath pre-treatment and dyeing process by using
comprising two hetero-bifunctional monochloro-s- various concentrations of Bactosol®HPA Liq.
triazine/vinylsulphone (MCT/VS) dyes, (RR 195, RB enzyme (1-4 g/l) and 1-4g/l of each Wat 870 and
222), two homo-bifunctional Bis(MCT) dyes (RO detergent SRM in addition to 2 g/l Ludigol for all
84,RR 141), one homo-bifunctional Bis(VS) dye reactive dyes studied, as shown in Figure 2, with total
(RBl5) and two monofunctional dyes of MCT and VS time of approx. 175 min. The fixation stages of all
dye types (RR 31, RR 180, respectively). These dyes reactive dyes were carried out at the same dyeing
were supplied by DyStar and Oh Young Industrial temperatures mentioned in the Conv-method.
Co. Ltd., and used as received. The C.I. generic name
and chemical structures of these dyes are illustrated The conventionally and enzymatically pre-treated
in Table1.Soda ash (Sodium carbonate anhydrous), fabrics dyeing with dye concentrations (1-3% owf)
Glauber’s salt (sodium sulphate anhydrous) and and the amounts of Na2SO4 and Na2CO3 used for all
glacial acetic acid were supplied by El-Nasr the reactive dyes was carried out in accordance to the
Pharmaceutical Chemicals Company, Egypt. The recipes listed in Table 2.
efficient enzyme (α-amylase) namely,
Bactosol®HPA Liq. was obtained from Archroma,
Egypt. Wetting agent (GB Detergent SRM Conc.)
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Egypt. J. Chem. 65 No. 5 (2022)
OPTIMIZATION OF ENZYMATIC TREATMENT AND REACTIVE DYEING OF VISCOSE FABRIC… FABRIC 649
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Table 1:: Commercial names and chemical structures of the reactive dyes
CI Generic Commercial Dye Class
Dye structure
name name M. Wt.
CI Reactive Suncion
Bis(MCT)
Orange 84 Orange HER
1850
(RO84) (Oh Young)
Procion
CI Reactive
Brilliant Red MCT
Red 31
H8B 992
(RR31)
(DyStar)
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Egypt. J. Chem. 65, No. 5 (2022)
650 A. S. El-Shehry et al.
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°C
140°C
① ② ③ ④ ⑤ ⑥
100°C
30 ´ 10 45 45
80°C 30 ´ 90°C 80°C
10 ´ 60°C 10 ´ 70°C
10 60°C
30´ 30
40°C 10 ´ 10 ´ 5´ 5´ 10 10 ´
1h 2h 3h 4h 5h 6h
① ② ③
80°C 80°C 10 ´ 45 ´ 45 ´
60°C 70c
10 30´ 10
40°C
1h 2h 3h time
Where, C1 and C2 are the concentrations of dye in Where, R is the decimal fraction of reflectance of
the dyebath before and after dyeing, respectively. the dyed fabric; K is the absorption coefficient; and S
Dye fixation and Colour yield is the scattering coefficient.
/
The dye fixation ratio (%F), the percentage of the ∆K/S = !.
× 100 (3)
/ #!$%.
exhausted dye chemically bound on the fabric was
Also, the percentage dye fixation ratio (%F) on
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Egypt. J. Chem. 65 No. 5 (2022)
OPTIMIZATION OF ENZYMATIC TREATMENT AND REACTIVE DYEING OF VISCOSE FABRIC… 651
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viscose was calculated using Eqn. 4: reactive dye types (RR 31, RR 180, RR 195, RO 84,
Where, (K⁄S)Bio. and (K⁄S)Conv. are the colour yield RBl 5). From the results given in Table 3, it is seen
of the dyed fabrics using Bio- and Conv-methods, that the one-bath pretreatment and dyeing of the gray
respectively. fabric is very encouraging using Bio-method. Within
/
%& = × 100 (4) the chosen concentrations of enzyme, the maximum
/ '
dye uptake was achieved at 2-3 g/l and there was no
Where, (K⁄S)is the colour yield of the dyed fabrics reduction in the dye uptake in all cases of reactive
with the values before soaping (1) and after soaping dyes used. From which, the types of bifunctional dyes
(2). exhibited approximately similar results of dye
exhaustion and total fixation yield values to the
The colourreadings of all dyed fabrics were also conventionally processed fabric using the Conv-
expressed in the CIELAB colour space system (often method. However, the monofunctional dyes showed
denoted as L*, a*,b* coordinates). In which, L* relatively lower values, particularly at low enzyme
represents lightness or darkness of the sample (a dosages. In other words, the dye build up was found
higher lightness value represents a lower colour to be more efficient with hetero-bifunctional reactive
yield); a* denotes redness if positive value or dyes, RR 195, followed by the homo-bifunctional
greenness if negative; and b* represents yellowness if bis(VS) dye RBl 5, while the monofunctional dyes
positive or blueness if negative. RR 31 and RR 180 showed a relatively lower values
dye exhaustion (%E) and total fixation yield (%T), as
2.4.2.COD Measurement shown in Figures 3-6. Also, the Bis(MCT) dyes RO
Laboratory analysis of the chemical oxygen 84 exhibited the lowest dye exhaustion (%E) and
demand COD of the residual dyebath was carried out total fixation yield (%T), which may be attributed to
in accordance with Standard Methods for its high molecular weight. These findings could also
Examination of Water and Wastewater [25]. be associated with the higher efficient of the
bifunctional dye RR 195, imparting much more
2.4.3.Fastness testing chance for fixation on viscose fabric through the
The dyed viscose fabrics, after washing-off using chemical reaction between the dye MCT/VS reactive
2 g/l nonionic detergent at 80°C for 15 min, were system and the fiber hydroxyl groups. Moreover, in
tested in accordance with ISO standard methods [26- the course of the pre-treatment stage, the use of
28]. The wash fastness test was assessed in enzyme in the presence of wetting agent could
accordance with the standard method ISO 105-C06 facilitate starch decomposition and help the removal
B2S [26] (4g/l of ECE detergent, 1 g/1 of sodium of the short fibers, fuzz and spinning oil, so that it can
perborate, 25 steel balls) at 50 °C for 30 min and at a improve the fabric softness and accelerate water
liquor ratio of 50:1. Fastness to acidic and alkaline absorption, promoting higher diffusion of dye
perspiration was determined with a perspirometer set molecules into the fiber during the dyeing stage. The
at specific pressure, temperature and time in combination of pre-treatment and dyeing using one-
accordance with ISO 105-E04 [27]. Any change in bath Bio-method has a relatively high dye exhaustion
colour of the dyed specimens (Alt) and colour and total dye fixation if compared to the Conv-
staining of the adjacent cotton (SC) and wool (SW) method, following the order RR 195 >RBl 5>RR
multi-fibers was then assessed with the corresponding 180>RR 31 > RO 84. The difference in colour
ISO grey scales for colour change and staining. Light strength (∆K/S) of the Bio-method compared to the
fastness was also assessed using a Xenon arc lamp Conv-method showed a reasonable colour yield on
test in accordance with ISO 105-B02 [28]. the viscose fabric, which was approximately similar
as shown in Table 4.
3. Results and Discussion
3.1. Effect of enzyme concentration 3.2. Effect of dye concentration
The raw viscose fabric was treated using the Bio- To further evaluate the one-bath pre-treatment and
method at various enzyme concentrations (1-4 g/l). dyeing method, dyeing of viscose fabrics were
The effect of this treatment on the dye ability of the conducted at different dye concentrations 1-3% owf.
viscose fabric samples was examined using different The colour strength (K/S), for both Bio- and Conv-
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Egypt. J. Chem. 65, No. 5 (2022)
652 A. S. El-Shehry et al.
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methods were examined. From the results, mentioned in Figure 7, it can be seen that the K/S values of the Bio-
method dyed viscose samples increased with increasing the dye concentration and secured relatively higher dye
uptake than those of the Conv-method with satisfactory results of CIE L*a*b* and ∆E, which showed acceptable
colour difference values of approximately ∆E < 1.5 particularly in case of RR 195 if compared to the values of
RR 180 (∆E >2), as given in Table 5.
Table 3: Colour strength data of the dyed viscose fabric using Bio- and Conv methods at different enzyme concentrations
Enzyme RR31 RR180 RO84 RBl5 RR195
Conc.
K/S ∆K/S K/S ∆K/S K/S ∆K/S K/S ∆K/S K/S ∆K/S
(g/l)
Conv. 21.1 100 14.92 100 17.01 100 29.96 100 15.97 100
1 21.73 103 16.98 113 17.08 100 31.67 106 18.53 116
2 21.77 103 16.43 110 17.37 97 33.39 111 17.81 111
3 21.16 100 15.98 107 16.79 99 31.43 105 17.80 111
4 21.14 100 15.71 105 16.70 98 30.86 103 17.78 111
Table 4: Effect of enzyme concentrations (1-4 g/l) on the colour CIE L*a*b* and colour difference (∆E) of the
dyed viscose fabric using Bio-method for RR180 and RR195 compared to the Conv-method
Enzyme Conc. (g/l) K/S L* a* b* C* h ∆E
RR195
Conv. 15.97 40.83 56.69 -5.51 56.96 354.44 --
1 18.53 40.13 59.12 -3.37 59.22 356.73 3.31
2 17.81 40.76 59 -3.91 59.13 356.21 2.81
3 17.8 41.51 58.39 -4.41 58.55 355.68 2.14
4 17.78 40.77 58.42 -4.27 58.57 355.82 2.13
RR180
Conv. 14.92 41.82 58.85 -4.06 58.99 356.06 --
1 16.98 40.75 58.75 -3.49 58.85 356.6 2.06
2 16.43 40.94 58.68 -4 58.82 356.1 2.06
3 15.98 40.82 58.42 -3.81 58.54 356.27 1.77
4 15.71 41.33 58.32 -4.32 58.48 355.77 1.87
Where, L* represents lightness or darkness of the dyed sample, a* denotes the red/green value, b* the yellow/blue value,
C* specifies chroma or saturation of the colour and h° denotes hue angle
Table 5: Effect of dye concentrations (1-3 % owf) on the colour data of the dyed viscose fabric using Bio- and
Conv-methods
Dye Conc. (% Dyeing
K/S L* a* b* C* h ∆E
owf) Method
RR195
Conv. 7.39 47.24 55.12 -7.95 55.69 351.79 --
1
Bio 8.17 47.39 56.41 -8.18 57 351.75 1.31
Conv. 15.97 40.58 58.69 -3.82 58.82 356.27 --
2
Bio 17.81 40.19 59.53 -2.49 60.58 357.65 1.62
Conv. 24.91 36.73 58.72 0.24 58.72 0.24 --
3
Bio 28.4 37.41 59.64 0.89 59.65 0.86 1.32
RR180
Conv. 6.85 48.79 54.35 -8.29 54.98 351.33 --
1
Bio 8.43 46.99 55.83 -7.52 56.34 352.33 2.45
Conv. 14.92 41.82 58.85 -4.06 58.99 356.06 --
2
Bio 16.43 40.94 58.68 -4 58.82 356.1 2.06
Conv. 23.07 38.34 59.09 -0.88 59.09 359.15 --
3
Bio 29.96 36.31 59.68 2.57 59.73 2.47 4.05
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Egypt. J. Chem. 65 No. 5 (2022)
OPTIMIZATION OF ENZYMATIC TREATMENT AND REACTIVE DYEING OF VISCOSE FABRIC… 653
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35
40 30
25
20 K/S
20
15
0 10
5
Table 7: Fastness Properties of the dyed viscose samples using Conv- and Bio-methods at 2% owf reactive dye concentration
homo-bifunctional bis(VS) dye RBl 5 while the 10. Reddy, N. and Yang, Y.Q., The N-
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Egypt. J. Chem. 65, No. 5 (2022)
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Egypt. J. Chem. 65 No. 5 (2022)