Extension Bulletin 569 A pril 1967
PATTERN
ALTERATION
A garment that fits well is much easier to make
if you alter the pattern before you cut the fabric.
To decide if you need to make any alterations,
compare your body measurements with those of the
pattern. If you have alr eady recorded your measure-
ments in Extension Bulletin 567, Pattern Selection,
transfer them to the " Measure and Compare" chart
on the inside page. If not, refer to that bulletin for
the correct way to take your measurements.
MEASURING THE PATTERN
You will need the pattern pieces for the front
and back bodice, front and back skirt, and sleeve
for measuring. Press the pieces with a warm rron
and lay them on a flat , hard surface to be sure
of accurate measu r ements.
Take all measurements within the seamlines.
Where the measurement does not follow the seam-
lin e itself, measure on the straight of grain. Omit
darts, tucks, and pleats and remember to double
measurements taken from only half the pattern, such
FIG. I-To Lengthen. Cut FIG. 2-To Shorten. Make
on crosswise grain, spread. tuck on crosswise grain
Redraw waistline dart. and redraw waistline dart.
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE
WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY
SEWING SKILLS
as bust, waist, and hips. Record pattern measu re-
ments on the chart inside.
ALTE RING THE PATTERN
After measuring yourself and the pattern, com-
pare the measurements. If there is only a slight
difference, the alteration may be made in the seam
allowance when you construct the garment .
If you need to alter the pattern itself, remember
these guidelines:
• Preserve the general outline of the pattern
whenever possible.
• Draw slash lines parallel to the lengthwise
grainline or at right angles to it.
• Check any alteration for its effect on other
pattern pieces and alter them as needed.
• Be sure the pattern lies flat again when the
alteration is finished.
ALTERING THE BODICE
TO LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN
To lengthen or shorten the bodice, draw a cross-
wise line on the back about 2 inches below the arm -
hole. On the front , draw a crosswise line just below
the underarm dart, or just above it, depending on
where the alteration needs to go to keep the dart at
the fullest part of the bust.
To lengthen, cut along the lines you've drawn
and spread the pattern the needed amount (Fig. 1) .
Pin or tape tissue paper under the pattern and re-
draw the side seams and waistline dart.
To shorten, measure the distance needed and
draw a second line, parallel to the first. Bring the
two lines together to form a crosswise tuck (Fig. 2).
Pin or tape in place. Redraw the side seam and
waistline dart.
COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE
PULLMAN, WASHINGTON
 Ft<;. 3-lar.ge Waist. Make FJG. 4-large Bust. Slash and
darts narrower. If necessary, spread. Add length to center
redraw side seams. front and redraw dart.
FOR LARGE OR SMALL WAIST
Whether you make the waist larger or smaller,
alter both the bodice and skirt in the same manner.
To make the waist larger, decrease the vvidth of
each waistline dart. If decreasing each dart by half
does not make the waist ·large enough, redraw the
side seams to add the remaining width (Fig. 3).
To make the waist smaller, increase the width of
each dart. If more than 14 inch must be added to
each dart, also redraw the side seams.
FOR LARGE BUST
This alteration for a large bust adds both width
and length to the front of the bodice without length-
ening the side seams.
Draw a line through the waistline dart, parallel
to the center front, and up to about 1 inch above
the underarm. From this point, draw a line on the
crosswise grain to the armhole seamline.
Cut along the lines. Put tissue under the pattern
and pivot the underarm section to give the needed
amount of width at the bust (Fig. 4).
Add the necessary extra length to the center
front at the bottom and redraw the waistline. Also
redraw the waistline dart. Make it large enough
to take up the added fullness at the waistline.
FOR ROUND SHOULDERS
A round shoulder alteration adds more length
and width in the upper back.
Draw a crosswise line from the center back to
FlG. 5-R.ound Shoulders. Cuf FIG. ~
aeross baek .=tnd pivot. Redraw Cut alo
back seam. Extend Mck seam. $hould~r
the armhole seamline, about 2 inches above the bot-
tom of the armhole. Slash to the seamline. Lay
tissue under the pattem and pivot the upper section
to lengthen the center back (Fig. 5).
Draw a straight line from the waistline up the
center back to give more width across the shoulders.
Extend the neckline seam out to this line. Then
draw a dart at the neckline to restore the seam to
its original length.
FOR NARROW OR WIDE SHOULDERS
To alter for narrow or wide shoulders, draw a
line straight dovvn from the shoulder seam and about
3 inches in from the armhole. Stop about 1 Yz inches
above the bottom of the armhole. Then draw a cross-
wise line to the armhole seamline. Slash, but do
not cut into the armhole seam allowance.
For narrow shoulders, lap the pattern pieces
(Fig. 6). Draw new shoulder line from neck edge
to armhole. Alter both front and back.
For wide shoulders, put tissue under the pattern
and pivot the armhole section out the needed amount
(Fig. 7). Draw new shoulder line from neck edge to
armhole. Alter both front and back.
FOR SLOPING SHOULDERS
If your shoulders slope more than the pattern
does, the garment will droop around the armholes.
To measure the amount of slope, stretch a tape
straight across the figure, from point of sh9ulder
to point of shoulder. Then measure down to the
-Narrow Shoulders. FIG. 7-Wide Shoulders. Cut
tg lines, tap pieces at along line1, spread at shoulder,
• and redraw seam. and draw new seamliM,
tape from the shoulder seamline at the base of the
neck. Measure the pattern in the same way. Draw
a line on the crosswise grain at the point of the
shoulder as a base for the measurement. Measure
both front and back.
To alter the pattern, draw a line parallel to the
center grainline and about 2 inches from the shoul-
der edge. Slash along this line to about 1 inch below
the armhole seamline.
Then draw a crosswise line from the bottom n£
the slash to the underarm seam. Make a tuck on
this line to lower the shoulder the needed amount
(Fig. 8). Straighten the shoulder line from armhole
edge to neckline. Also redraw side seam.
FOR SQUARE SHOULDERS
An alteration for square shoulders adds height
to the shoulders so there is less slope in the pattern.
Measure yourself and the pattern as outlined for
sloping shoulders.
To alter the pattern, draw lines the same as for
a sloping shoulder alteration. Cut along both lines.
Move the small part of the pattern up to raise the
shoulders (Fig. 9). Straighten the shoulder line
from the armhole edge to the neckline. Redraw the
side seam. Alter both front and back.
ALTERING THE SLEEVE
TO LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN
There are three places where you might need to
lengthen or shorten the sleeve-in the sleeve cap,
FJG. 8-Sioping Shoulders. fiG. 9-Square Snoul~ers. Cut
Slash lengthwise, make tuck, on . both lines, raise ~hourdet
and redraw 'shoulder $eam. section, and redraw seam.
above the elbow, or below the elbow. Decide where
...
the alteration is needed and follow the instructions • .• I
for lengthening or shortening the bodice.
.'I
(
FOR LARGE OR SMALL ARMS •I
If there is not enough ease in the sleeve, the
garment will pull and be uncomfortable to wear. \i.
If there is too much ease, the garment will look n'
11'
untidy. ,,
To make the sleeve larger, draw a line on the
lengthwise grainline from the center of the sleeve
cap to the seamline at the bottom of the sleeve.
Slash along the line.
Draw a long straight line on a piece of tissue .,.
\
and place it under the sleeve. Pivot the sleeve
sections equal distances from the line on the tissue
until the sleeve is the desired size in the upper arm
(Fig. 10 ). Redraw the sleeve cap. The line you
.-
drew on the tissue will be the new grainline for
cutting out the sleeve.
The alteration for a large arm adds length to
the seamline of the sleeve cap. This may be eased
in or the armhole may be made a little larger. To
make the armhole larger, place tissue under the side
seams of the bodice and add one-half of the amount
the sleeve was enlarged to the armhole at both the
front and back underarm seams (Fig. 11). Redraw
the seams from this point to the original waistline.
To make the sleeve smaller, lap the two sleeve
sections instead of pivoting as for enlarging the
sleeve. Redraw the sleeve cap to smooth the curve.
You may also need to shorten the depth of the arm-
hole by raising the underarm seam.
·.i
(
 .· FOR LARGE ARMS ABOVE THE ELBOW
If you need to enlarge the sleeve above the
elbow only, the alteration may be made in just
that part of the pattern.
Draw a line on the crosswise grain just
above the elbow from seamline to seamline.
Also draw a line on the lengthwise grain from
the top of the sleeve cap to this crosswise
line. Slash on these lines and put tissue under
the pattern. Draw a line on the tissue to serve
as a lengthwise grainline. Pivot the upper sec-
tions of the sleeve equal distances from this line
I
I (Fig. 12).
I .
Ease the sleeve cap into the original arm-
hole or alter the front and back bodice as ex-
plained in the large arm alteration.
FOR LARGE HIPS OR HEAVY THIGHS
To alter for large hips, draw a line near
the side seam parallel to the lengthwise grain-
line. Slash from the bottom of the skirt to the
waist seamline. Do this on both the front and
back.
Place tissue under the pattern and spread
the sections apart the amount needed at the
hipline (Fig. 13 ) .
If the pattern is larger at the lower edge
than desired, fold a dart at the hipline in the
smaller pattern section (Fig. 14). This brings
the lower edges of the slash closer together.
Straighten the hemline.

ALTERING THE SKIRT

TO LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN

If the skirt is flared, lengthen or shorten

it at the hipline. Draw a line on the cross-
wise grain just below the largest part of the
hips. Then follow the same instructions as
given for lengthening or shortening the bodice.
If the skirt is straight, lengthen or shorten
it at the lower edge.

FOR LARGE OR SMALL WAIST .~ I

To make the waist larger or smaller, alter FIG. 13-Large Hips. Cut FIG. 14-To take fullness
on line parallel to length· from hem, make small dart
as for the waistline of the bodice. wise grainline and spread. in pattern at hipline.
 MEASURE AND COMPARE
Fill in your measurements from EB 567. Then measure the pattern and compare the measurements.

I How to Measure the Pattern

Your
Measurements
Usual
Ease
Measurements
Plus Ease
Pattern
Measurement
Alteration
Needed +or-

8@ r. FULL BUST-Front
and back bodice from
center line to side seam
2 inches below armhole.
2-4"

QQ 2. WAIST-Front and
back bodice along
waistline. Omit any
darts, tucks, pleats.
0-1"

fJ D
3. HIP-Front and back
skirt, 7 inches below 2-3n
waistline at center
front and back.

4. BACK WAIST

CJ LENGTH-Along center
back from neck to waist
on back bodice.
V2"

w 5. SHOULDER SEAM
LENGTH-Front bodice
along shoulder seam.
Omit any darts.
0"

~
'> A
6. BACK SHOULDER
WIDTH-Across back 12-1"
1
bodice, 4 inches below
base of neck:.

e
·~
7. 'UPPER ARM:_Across
widest part of sleeve 3-4''
at bottom of sleeve
cap.

'& i" ,,
X

@
(!\
8. FRONT BUST
MEASURE-Across 2"
front of bodice
2 inches below armhole.
/
~'
9 "',;

ill
9. FRONT WAIST
LENGTH-From highest V2"
point of shoulder to
waist on bodice front.
~
' ~

Q
10. UNDERARM LENGTH
-From underarm to 'h"
waist along side seam
on bodice back.
w

(])
II. LENGTH OF ARM-
Along lengthwise grain 0"
from top of sleeve cap
to seam or fold of hem.
~
"
~

'-·
[) 12. SKIRT LENGTH-
Along side seam from
waist to fold of hem
on skirt front or back.
0"

h

FIG. 15-Full Side FIG. 16 - Abdo- FIG. 17 - Sway-
Hips. Slash, spread men. Slash, spread back. Slash, lap at
at side seamline. at center front. center back.
FOR FULL SIDE HIPS
A pronounced curve at the side of the hips re-
quires more length along the side seam. To measure
the amount needed, stretch a tape around the hips.
It should be exactly 7 inches below the waist at
the center front and back and parallel to the floor.
Measure from the waist to the tape at each side
seam. Take similar measurements on the pattern.
Measure 7 inches down from the waist at center
front and back and draw a crosswise line. Use this
as a base for the measurement. If your figure meas-
ures more at the side seam than the pattern, add. this
amount.
To alter, slash from the side to the center along
the line you drew for the measurement. Put tissue
under the pattern and pivot to lengthen the side
(Fig. 15). Alter both front and back.
With a yardstick, draw a new center line from
the waistline to the bottom of the skirt. Redraw
the waistline darts so they are parallel to this new
grainline. Also straighten the bottom of the pattern
so it is at right angles to this line.
If only one hip is full or high, alter the pattern
to fit this hip. After the fabric is cut, fold the pat-
tern back to its original size and trim away the
excess fabric on the smaller side.
FOR LARGE ABDOMEN
A large abdomen makes the skirt swing out in
front. Adding more length at the center front will
This bulletin was prepared by HazelL. Roberts, Extension Clothing Specialist, Washington State University.
Published and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, by the Washington State University Extension
Service, John P. Miller, Director, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, cooperating.
correct this. Measure yourself and the front skirt
pattern as explained for the side hip alteration. If
the pattern measures more at the side than you do,
add this amount at the center front.
Slash from the center to the side seamline along
the line you drew for the measurement. Place tissue
under the pattern and pivot to lengthen the center
front (Fig. 16).
With a yardstick, extend the lower center front
line. straight up. Bring the waistline seam out to
meet this line. Also place tissue under the side
seam and redraw the seam from the waist to the
hem.
Redraw the waistline darts so they are the same
distance from the center front as on the original
pattern. They should be parallel with the new cen-
ter front grainline.
If you do not need the additional width at the
waist, leave the darts where they are and add a new
dart toward the center front to take up the extra
fullness. Straighten the remaining darts.
If you do not take up the waistline with an extra
dart, alter the bodice to make it as much larger
as the addition in the skirt. Add the extra width to
the side seam at the waistline and redraw the under-
arm seam. Do this on the front bodice only.
FOR LARGE BUTTOCKS
Large buttocks will make the skirt swing out in
the back. More length at the center back will cor-
rect this. Alter as for the large abdomen.
FOR SWAYBACK OR FLAT BACK
Both a swayback and a flat back cause wrinkles
across the back and side seams that swing forward.
This can be corrected by shortening the center back.
Measure as explained for the side hip alteration.
If your figure measures more at the side than the
pattern, take this amount out of the center back.
Draw a crosswise line from the center back to
the side seamline, about 4 inches below the waist-
line. Slash and lap the cut sections to shorten the
center back (Fig. 17). Pin or tape in place.
Lay tissue under the pattern and use a yardstick
to draw a new center back line from the waistline
to the bottom of the skirt. Sraighten the bottom
so it is at right angles to this line. Also straighten
the waistline darts.
15M-467